tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45965208928037885042024-03-28T00:53:11.877+01:00Una volpe a pedali. Viaggi in biciRita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.comBlogger265125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-83967518421463171682023-08-30T01:52:00.000+02:002023-08-30T01:52:54.976+02:0066-69. Todos los Santos, l'Hotel California e l'arrivo a La Paz. Il viaggio finisce qui, e qui ricomincia (+ come imballare una bici per l'aereo con scatole riciclate)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTtwkJf78DQxm0DXCA-VCplMSKuxPx-o7E403tNLA5BtPPD1z0zZ6jFAnG9TNUQM2FiChNL4BpTTCYVdY1J2XpqfbO01Kc1Us-qCPjjZrrdZcK8kew_uXmQebSjN8p7y9y8ZaTQUkcJItubm3nNOeKrBVafNWAxxxFOqShnRw1nTS818TfISIMuXvjaYc/s1210/20230826_133928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTtwkJf78DQxm0DXCA-VCplMSKuxPx-o7E403tNLA5BtPPD1z0zZ6jFAnG9TNUQM2FiChNL4BpTTCYVdY1J2XpqfbO01Kc1Us-qCPjjZrrdZcK8kew_uXmQebSjN8p7y9y8ZaTQUkcJItubm3nNOeKrBVafNWAxxxFOqShnRw1nTS818TfISIMuXvjaYc/w640-h296/20230826_133928.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWSN0aIezNLTBTTarcbd_7eVBEq_kaHmni1V0jNkQqF7dOuq43-bY-KSHwZtDB_Nuutwk04Z7QI3GmOMrmM95MxHlK8EMN-G8D1Zsdqgb5robHfdowylsxs6v598fLrjSsT6K_1ZNqWb9c2Pn5X_dmE17ahwO3l9F8qtcPfUl5M-sRRZKKJkjbW0g6gY/s1209/20230826_152703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfOfOLriFKr8tsjgDUqNZMmKaRkfshl1ZD86y3GcnpPlFhrGYp5ckCQE9tRXAAeiwRl-2Kg3hhQjj2kC5cOTcqEwskMqusY9z2CCkHvn4piCPeWq9Rb5Bp2fgK5wHKqXe-4_WVFi7od5D1BdrfZRNGgkSLc-lotBPgMsxMXLGbg9XKvse2_uHGjpbDds/s1209/20230827_085139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfOfOLriFKr8tsjgDUqNZMmKaRkfshl1ZD86y3GcnpPlFhrGYp5ckCQE9tRXAAeiwRl-2Kg3hhQjj2kC5cOTcqEwskMqusY9z2CCkHvn4piCPeWq9Rb5Bp2fgK5wHKqXe-4_WVFi7od5D1BdrfZRNGgkSLc-lotBPgMsxMXLGbg9XKvse2_uHGjpbDds/w640-h480/20230827_085139.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmvD9PQkZfkTmtNHan_r5yoqjWnUU6kSfwhPlVJVJTcz2Ts2q2VILULbCylx9BwC6ZYnoyU66lZHP93MPJeV-vTWC1gbKt0_XSnl9jQ1OQcYglJUPENS2PBrp2e2Hhfr8mz99Kw1yH4YSRDzvrDgTG2MyBdP_OJnhjzAQAsVXwVubcSwkJtsw6384zxnI/s1209/20230827_174110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmvD9PQkZfkTmtNHan_r5yoqjWnUU6kSfwhPlVJVJTcz2Ts2q2VILULbCylx9BwC6ZYnoyU66lZHP93MPJeV-vTWC1gbKt0_XSnl9jQ1OQcYglJUPENS2PBrp2e2Hhfr8mz99Kw1yH4YSRDzvrDgTG2MyBdP_OJnhjzAQAsVXwVubcSwkJtsw6384zxnI/w640-h480/20230827_174110.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>26/8<div>Cabo San Lucas-Todos (los) Santos</div><div>78km + 5 a piedi</div><div><br /></div><div>Ragazzi, che storiaccia! Oggi è la penultima tappa. Il viaggio sta davvero volgendo al termine e si prospettano all'orizzonte gli accolli logistici della partenza, del rientro, del lavoro. E' persino arrivata la circolare del collegio docenti del 1 settembre! Non riesco neanche a immaginarmi seduta composta su quelle sedioline di plastica del nostro auditorium, tutte istoriate di cazzetti e svastiche da generazioni di alunni, ad ascoltare cose gravi ma non serie. Aiuto! Oltretutto tornerò a casa dall'aeroporto nella notte tra 31 agosto e 1 settembre, quindi avrò poche ore di rinconglionimento da fuso per farmi una doccia, indossare un ampio paio di occhiali scuri e un largo sombrero, e presentarmi a scuola in sella a un asinello, suonando maracas e bevendo tequila. Che mestizia! Sto piangendo dentro.</div><div>Mi consolo con il kilo e mezzo di pancake che il cuoco dell'ostello di offre per colazione. E' rimasto impressionato dal racconto della nostra impresa ciclistica e deve aver pensato che abbiamo bisogno di energie extra. Quindi ci serve un pansofà di pancake con sciroppo d'acero e banane mature. Spazzoliamo tutto, perchè, in effetti, consumiamo più di quel che reintegriamo. Ci approccia anche un'altra ospite, italiana, di Napoli, che viaggia sola. Con bus e voli interni ha fatto un giro simile al nostro, ma in tre settimane, e ora è qui a trovare una amica che abita a Cabo. Non abbiamo incrociato molti italiani, qui in Messico, e sempre meno mano a mano che ci siamo spostati a ovest. Tutti viaggiatori sui generis: solitari, giornalisti, artisti. Gente a posto, insomma!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMJBD9eBFbXX7bPwNgcg39Y5wFwpcgaZJHuSC5fNLqDNcSuojPtVwqMoOAzNY60sL8w70x2Cb2OVe4Z-qse5A3wdYpo4ndvNq2aN8j70ckoPJHP2JbzMBwxeZi09YUFKODZDxZVz3Ec-ofUWEGDsp-h_vxQIZ978iojtO85IzYQ55gmqAuYymi8IYPic/s1209/20230826_082121.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMJBD9eBFbXX7bPwNgcg39Y5wFwpcgaZJHuSC5fNLqDNcSuojPtVwqMoOAzNY60sL8w70x2Cb2OVe4Z-qse5A3wdYpo4ndvNq2aN8j70ckoPJHP2JbzMBwxeZi09YUFKODZDxZVz3Ec-ofUWEGDsp-h_vxQIZ978iojtO85IzYQ55gmqAuYymi8IYPic/s320/20230826_082121.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Partiamo con calma, e con calma e pazienza dobbiamo affrontare i primi 30km, nei quali si concentrano tutte le salite e il dislivello di oggi, quasi 1000m di rampette e strappi. Il tutto controvento, su strade spesso piene di sabbia e, nel primo tratto, uscendo da Cabo, pure trafficate. Per la prima volta in due mesi e mezzo assistiamo ad un incidente vero e proprio: un pick up lanciato a manetta centra in pieno un piccolo autobus che sta uscendo dal benzinaio per reimmettersi sulla strada, mentre un furgone cisterna evita la collisione per un pelo, uscendo di strada. Per fortuna nessuno si fa male e i danni si limitano ai mezzi... Ma che spavento! Via, via, torniamo al deserto, che è meno pericoloso. </div><div><br /></div><div>Le colline di questo primo tratto di tappa sono verdissime, coperte di vegetazione fitta e bassa, tra cui spuntano, alti e cupi, i cactus, che paiono spesso omini stilizzati con le braccia alzate, pietrificati in una danza scomposta, o in un saluto grande. Ciao saguari!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySbycFtIZJtM26ODtBxzMpjOsQKaxHmwfftBkafgmYtNCEv0S6e3-1O-nwpUrZAGvS8cfvz_PQdv1DZnwBPaIKHnC7gbQb_rZu4NRLDS0XIEzx50kgOCmLORa7SgT56bHc8gPLtaNp4NhSDUVjXB8_8qF3zOBQtJxVp4Bur83AiEvexNcfxzJWR8fGdI/s1209/20230826_095903.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySbycFtIZJtM26ODtBxzMpjOsQKaxHmwfftBkafgmYtNCEv0S6e3-1O-nwpUrZAGvS8cfvz_PQdv1DZnwBPaIKHnC7gbQb_rZu4NRLDS0XIEzx50kgOCmLORa7SgT56bHc8gPLtaNp4NhSDUVjXB8_8qF3zOBQtJxVp4Bur83AiEvexNcfxzJWR8fGdI/s320/20230826_095903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6H367t5dLi4Hs1TwX2TIdyIjXkv5pFIk1BqTK7yWNqSG-RxxMKlqqc82Jww_2zzuxadH3WtwW1B1UVBrTwKR45Eo0Pw3Q8sFJ61pDowvAaiTBJQ3A2FMLWsMKThDa6nld1EmvF5AbAqsuBdXKNu9vOmywf56nN3KyS6xplKhDkl-5iEvWWuwU5tQ4eQ/s1209/20230826_102029.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="816" data-original-width="1088" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0usgMvw-jLAEO3B_Cx_Kr_6n8iVQF-9Dl-mxhpiPgOp1Ciqjj1naXIR3ZUL3Q6xvuH1bLg48saLmfqtrzWlIrtQVMI1gWrPmszZbM0vVUVIAz8uZCwqvcfBv_Vuh9GEiOc2QfF8mD_iOWmYuJqVydSxnxMNT16uTb50VgcQD6iQIEoRbbZyYLP_tkMu8/s320/20230826_102750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqO1qplEsBE5K2Gq81dKtKLq9mN_dzjy2iB_9ttnGNqju9gOofGuzf2Id_O11a3YL0mqd-JWNsEZvINgDrmQvCOIVxC1zPnlU1bKgq0qklUjegznSYMp7K1izr2OLtQNwm7LAP3pCWFU6oONcRkHD-WdZNDA85sMnws_1oShyJPeedmxbFwaqdhDU5wU/s1209/20230826_102754.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqO1qplEsBE5K2Gq81dKtKLq9mN_dzjy2iB_9ttnGNqju9gOofGuzf2Id_O11a3YL0mqd-JWNsEZvINgDrmQvCOIVxC1zPnlU1bKgq0qklUjegznSYMp7K1izr2OLtQNwm7LAP3pCWFU6oONcRkHD-WdZNDA85sMnws_1oShyJPeedmxbFwaqdhDU5wU/s320/20230826_102754.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi la strada si fa largo tra le ultime propaggini della Sierra e sbuca di nuovo sulla costa, con l'oceano in vista, grandioso occhio spalancato al cielo, abisso su abisso di impenetrabili chiarori. Il Pacifico ci accompagna da qui per il resto del tragitto, ed è lo sfondo esatto che incornicia il nostro andare. Non c'è abbraccio d'orizzonte più bello.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oLBiZiXwfmI1L1r1Ike6iG4k_6OJdthtDzqsLm_-gVOy2jcwdKtUjsnBAGm3XyM7OF9i6MWg8C6rOX2RJ9c35j2Y17lF-hn7bv6RW4j8ZM-tPBHoY7hiWRGIuP6NjQZapSSMlqIHzNU_UVEu5wpF82eyKdLTYg-KCK1YcHErnqW4RPDau7hmDC0gO6M/s1209/20230826_103204.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oLBiZiXwfmI1L1r1Ike6iG4k_6OJdthtDzqsLm_-gVOy2jcwdKtUjsnBAGm3XyM7OF9i6MWg8C6rOX2RJ9c35j2Y17lF-hn7bv6RW4j8ZM-tPBHoY7hiWRGIuP6NjQZapSSMlqIHzNU_UVEu5wpF82eyKdLTYg-KCK1YcHErnqW4RPDau7hmDC0gO6M/s320/20230826_103204.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf49c5m4QkDs1eFgws3XizCKp7Y3Xorenve46hBipVfAgRYncb_5M0ZcIERudLqF6ucYqBGjwvh6MCReOWR14ngVNlHoA2sMLJ-jnhmOjaXIDoFg6iJyZjkXwgd5FyhSHM6bLEqyIGWuKm3vXCNDwlMkYbIy5G-1sijW8vTrYWr-bMxhJLdUwjqCFMXBM/s1209/20230826_105052.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: justify;">Le colline non smettono di metterci alla prova, ma in modo sempre meno arduo e impegnativo. Le rampe diventano gentili fianchi su cui lasciar rotolare le bici, e, incredibilmente, non fa nemmeno così caldo: il sole è spesso velato e, a est, sulle vette della Sierra, sembra si stia addensando addirittura un temporale.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiURFRPnxNMeBr6_fkMR770DmmSK9QaZXpTn8jPpM-KywXFCaUlOE1TzS8BE6QXLVpkuZ9erZHEjHT8JvjLcgRdUv61sykSZdkVWe5dqR4Fsc6pC1aP7v_y7SBcMjsiOM2fEpetCqUmKYd91Qr0VL7yQv1M8yMm778pTsP6pUoQCCtFGGrz-BrBRu2gB7s/s1209/20230826_115100.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiURFRPnxNMeBr6_fkMR770DmmSK9QaZXpTn8jPpM-KywXFCaUlOE1TzS8BE6QXLVpkuZ9erZHEjHT8JvjLcgRdUv61sykSZdkVWe5dqR4Fsc6pC1aP7v_y7SBcMjsiOM2fEpetCqUmKYd91Qr0VL7yQv1M8yMm778pTsP6pUoQCCtFGGrz-BrBRu2gB7s/s320/20230826_115100.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtA08JGUR2qXv3BwZS-QvhLKhaeW3oXpI9qlSIbvqTj0UFXPcx5bPNyC2_HfqMBY14crq2hkbuc8IJ31INH43PjMwsaAqlshl9FmJXUDOQGeUi-svRqOmeFhKCJkaqLh_mOHQctbQMalRIs_ZYeMrBT__0wfl9v43ZpsOmMmxql3IhxvSf0GZECa7YdZo/s1124/20230826_115113.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="1124" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtA08JGUR2qXv3BwZS-QvhLKhaeW3oXpI9qlSIbvqTj0UFXPcx5bPNyC2_HfqMBY14crq2hkbuc8IJ31INH43PjMwsaAqlshl9FmJXUDOQGeUi-svRqOmeFhKCJkaqLh_mOHQctbQMalRIs_ZYeMrBT__0wfl9v43ZpsOmMmxql3IhxvSf0GZECa7YdZo/s320/20230826_115113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpQFza1vNIFBF8SnXoOHVhec-D9Ih5NiNlmE4uEKEoH-9bqLs1Hkn5WWloqt81IkhUj47pGv6qNV-ZKxfvkpODcA1UrdcF5o3lH5VuWQ5NUjIYMIx-D51UzjLhL3Nubz_sIJY_-GcM1_UN9Tc1NCHS6DP7fQdvhE9EUr-UGwc_y6RjDj6ZYh-8WYgX_8/s1209/20230826_115126.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixpQFza1vNIFBF8SnXoOHVhec-D9Ih5NiNlmE4uEKEoH-9bqLs1Hkn5WWloqt81IkhUj47pGv6qNV-ZKxfvkpODcA1UrdcF5o3lH5VuWQ5NUjIYMIx-D51UzjLhL3Nubz_sIJY_-GcM1_UN9Tc1NCHS6DP7fQdvhE9EUr-UGwc_y6RjDj6ZYh-8WYgX_8/s320/20230826_115126.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZrA3sDo1RUCdcgZ3J3X9-c79epbogpYFP5RvBXv9ggmxk_ZqC1nIpskEKQV5E5dEOXTGbP4SLg7yP_RUhuxd1X4oYQ8JfiSOFKsdykNPGZO5Sjd-Y-qIrhk1VqBkiIbQ3Pzy_9qQCDmox8aHNQuW-EZVvBB5KfxcSsuTpleclqsO7jyHaHJUtzzzec4/s1137/20230826_115716.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1137" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZrA3sDo1RUCdcgZ3J3X9-c79epbogpYFP5RvBXv9ggmxk_ZqC1nIpskEKQV5E5dEOXTGbP4SLg7yP_RUhuxd1X4oYQ8JfiSOFKsdykNPGZO5Sjd-Y-qIrhk1VqBkiIbQ3Pzy_9qQCDmox8aHNQuW-EZVvBB5KfxcSsuTpleclqsO7jyHaHJUtzzzec4/s320/20230826_115716.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjca8BmYjg4UdIMdDLBEGwd-KBkU0Pvs21kPHT-Wj9eL73_qY9HNmtbx3BDehk1w-Egsbvb3fvIxfep_0ggkHxd1DqFlWtG0_EDHYXkX6KQ5Y7eSHoAXzJVsgnFmlWzNUZ1N2sXY5MFADCrqPfljLpQdFY1WwknD__uqXt0cfiwA6ZVbgS3AyjL19VYuCQ/s1171/20230826_120148.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="878" data-original-width="1171" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjca8BmYjg4UdIMdDLBEGwd-KBkU0Pvs21kPHT-Wj9eL73_qY9HNmtbx3BDehk1w-Egsbvb3fvIxfep_0ggkHxd1DqFlWtG0_EDHYXkX6KQ5Y7eSHoAXzJVsgnFmlWzNUZ1N2sXY5MFADCrqPfljLpQdFY1WwknD__uqXt0cfiwA6ZVbgS3AyjL19VYuCQ/s320/20230826_120148.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlWA5-GhUobM7hoEyMEffs9wK7LteQg9lm-H5hMHLGVkV-x2BtdF1fSCGcaQJH9kdRiQ1DrKzU9L6SWQctPKsc3Iaw2DViWDPC9ui7136USyCAM8ztluc7Ug6I1kPj-BVfJoX67yCvEdlqRbJtAVeL9kwGlJ6poh0cxQV3GNGmyK44KLtphkoSbdYQuqM/s1168/20230826_121010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="1168" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlWA5-GhUobM7hoEyMEffs9wK7LteQg9lm-H5hMHLGVkV-x2BtdF1fSCGcaQJH9kdRiQ1DrKzU9L6SWQctPKsc3Iaw2DViWDPC9ui7136USyCAM8ztluc7Ug6I1kPj-BVfJoX67yCvEdlqRbJtAVeL9kwGlJ6poh0cxQV3GNGmyK44KLtphkoSbdYQuqM/s320/20230826_121010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih_78HiNVt8JuTYQJiA48FUlCIodrW9aKap_kb0tSFbKs8Rck9n-G0mEJRNqs35SUUpJK9iH4K0om_GbDrWHFbM0hfE_TbpOkz1WN7TdjRgsObmiD91hMX_791_MMteU_gLRRb32D0mgFxCYC8tNI4kVz_fQek_cZkh1u_sKAaJfpxd3Jj-d2UpivcC7o/s1209/20230826_121801.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih_78HiNVt8JuTYQJiA48FUlCIodrW9aKap_kb0tSFbKs8Rck9n-G0mEJRNqs35SUUpJK9iH4K0om_GbDrWHFbM0hfE_TbpOkz1WN7TdjRgsObmiD91hMX_791_MMteU_gLRRb32D0mgFxCYC8tNI4kVz_fQek_cZkh1u_sKAaJfpxd3Jj-d2UpivcC7o/s320/20230826_121801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-zntDMRioX2ITiTLU388_WqI1UUDPCrLKLy-7bVr5LowXC7_7PYmwSIkIhCCyM6uir1NtoqpozVyFIC4cVZWQ5C0mAt1ZLcvF7J-lpAsGPhJvkaxqRfm3S5JaWBRptt3RaHyW-OEZmheGBwblWksl1koA3aIuYrXfudWtbEpO_fyh5eWvd9fdWt5-YA/s1209/20230826_121806.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-zntDMRioX2ITiTLU388_WqI1UUDPCrLKLy-7bVr5LowXC7_7PYmwSIkIhCCyM6uir1NtoqpozVyFIC4cVZWQ5C0mAt1ZLcvF7J-lpAsGPhJvkaxqRfm3S5JaWBRptt3RaHyW-OEZmheGBwblWksl1koA3aIuYrXfudWtbEpO_fyh5eWvd9fdWt5-YA/s320/20230826_121806.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Di paesi, nei primi 50km, ne passiamo pochissimi, tutti minuscoli e lontani dalla strada, verso la costa. I più sono segnalati solo per i centri che offrono tour nel deserto (in quad, a cavallo, con i cammelli, in ATV) o per gli appartamenti in affitto. Non mancano i luoghi che offrono opinabili ritiri spirituali, detox digitali e sociali di dubbia moralità e altre soluzioni a problemi che il primo mondo si è inventato, per star comunque male e dare un nome al vuoto che divora da dentro.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Facciamo una sosta al microejido di Plutarco Elias Calles che, non so perchè, su Maps è segnato in caratteri cirillici. Qui c'è un negozietto dove facciamo scorta di acqua e qualche nocciolina. Quando chiedo alla ragazza se ci sia un bagno, mi fa entrare in casa, sul retro, in una corte incasinatissima, piena di rottami, spazzatura, abuelos, bimbi, frutta, polli e cani, e mi fa usare il suo privato.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJKYuckaWQtfxS9hjMwuNqdUiI_6ue_VsyTUN79lD34C7oglhQ671WSg0Xq74lqfb1NuaN1juNGu-JU2cprYzRMxSO1DpdOzx6vveyLJgAdhdx_W1-JzrylthVZd1DBB_PT9V5tKfSxJ0DI7f_EpNDV3_tc9QyDbhjBNnDKx3Wv9rysszZ0LA6d51U6k/s1163/20230826_122115.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="806" data-original-width="1163" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJKYuckaWQtfxS9hjMwuNqdUiI_6ue_VsyTUN79lD34C7oglhQ671WSg0Xq74lqfb1NuaN1juNGu-JU2cprYzRMxSO1DpdOzx6vveyLJgAdhdx_W1-JzrylthVZd1DBB_PT9V5tKfSxJ0DI7f_EpNDV3_tc9QyDbhjBNnDKx3Wv9rysszZ0LA6d51U6k/s320/20230826_122115.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSDMl-LPtwSkjsjGAvZ-X-j2BaINy30Ebw5dcXGsC50RHWIGsCZgc47Gjar96KExmqBx8prHLRFFeYRB_xNtXdRt2q-zjQjWWJSsko8VCivp4CoPZazGU-X-85edvpVHNBst18JgPrMx-0duKumjOd4XF5C6IJ3BXVlKIBcbDh7A-M7MBJuCiuBmXvVw/s1209/20230826_124547.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSDMl-LPtwSkjsjGAvZ-X-j2BaINy30Ebw5dcXGsC50RHWIGsCZgc47Gjar96KExmqBx8prHLRFFeYRB_xNtXdRt2q-zjQjWWJSsko8VCivp4CoPZazGU-X-85edvpVHNBst18JgPrMx-0duKumjOd4XF5C6IJ3BXVlKIBcbDh7A-M7MBJuCiuBmXvVw/s320/20230826_124547.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSHuNQPVjDKRVD-U1v9-4WwunqSgyf0w68ck9nnqdFYlYwpWC-srWEZmCqHZP9piuVCxkRxgM0XxWuMwUDCxviufknvwD8wDbtVqbaGc0ZpY7x-3fN4iQDaUaK96XLkSSBPCVTR1ILNzLTV4NBtMuyAGNfXocEdH62TNIgVQ60-3drRKtMzgBV65ugKbQ/s1209/20230826_124555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSHuNQPVjDKRVD-U1v9-4WwunqSgyf0w68ck9nnqdFYlYwpWC-srWEZmCqHZP9piuVCxkRxgM0XxWuMwUDCxviufknvwD8wDbtVqbaGc0ZpY7x-3fN4iQDaUaK96XLkSSBPCVTR1ILNzLTV4NBtMuyAGNfXocEdH62TNIgVQ60-3drRKtMzgBV65ugKbQ/s320/20230826_124555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrgz-mDPqqb3JMxeNVD1l-xw_IFW5MODxm2Fn8rmwc5sFDhRAyH4d1Dj7uqNBja-4BGfQrb8qnM6BRriVwVNG6dSZM1fCqJgmwfg1f_PSvosO728kEQP1GatqToWryZiCp_vEdk_vUNeS_6aw1l9y13jUvXpYtfV32KplE68-3sdZqkJwM20saU5VAvE/s1209/20230826_124609.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrgz-mDPqqb3JMxeNVD1l-xw_IFW5MODxm2Fn8rmwc5sFDhRAyH4d1Dj7uqNBja-4BGfQrb8qnM6BRriVwVNG6dSZM1fCqJgmwfg1f_PSvosO728kEQP1GatqToWryZiCp_vEdk_vUNeS_6aw1l9y13jUvXpYtfV32KplE68-3sdZqkJwM20saU5VAvE/s320/20230826_124609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUM4veqwz0ZhudY1Pv8nfYMjM-qGjxcJyWf5AB_rSSpJq9P_wxSWZKptHA4qv1JZMqeqXt0cRiH1UOWg3aZOc5bpII5xP2-TeDNGPcduTKN_fIFz_Z8F3lQaxO4lhT3ih_12CBVbng1Vg7Kx_bzT1CzJUPgRa2VOv1tV8ShmXgpM9edZmFyrMu2TPfaE/s1209/20230826_124629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUM4veqwz0ZhudY1Pv8nfYMjM-qGjxcJyWf5AB_rSSpJq9P_wxSWZKptHA4qv1JZMqeqXt0cRiH1UOWg3aZOc5bpII5xP2-TeDNGPcduTKN_fIFz_Z8F3lQaxO4lhT3ih_12CBVbng1Vg7Kx_bzT1CzJUPgRa2VOv1tV8ShmXgpM9edZmFyrMu2TPfaE/s320/20230826_124629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpvIznYYRjg5B6kHxDcz2FfhjtYWjjTWzdRSl0OhHO177b0eApGcaP4U0J4iFiaaKrh6dDpaSuhw1UT4ymp8f9UvEe8pGVA4WfamlTqcZFz1Be8N1EGCzI9MQroqHXU7otjHLrihnYKQB9X56ZByeBAywhTmC7bQ3ETEzLeLJLkaGUIQcqJorhhDLF8s/s1209/20230826_132014.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpvIznYYRjg5B6kHxDcz2FfhjtYWjjTWzdRSl0OhHO177b0eApGcaP4U0J4iFiaaKrh6dDpaSuhw1UT4ymp8f9UvEe8pGVA4WfamlTqcZFz1Be8N1EGCzI9MQroqHXU7otjHLrihnYKQB9X56ZByeBAywhTmC7bQ3ETEzLeLJLkaGUIQcqJorhhDLF8s/s320/20230826_132014.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fanno tutto, anche le palapas!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxAQi49v-MS8ieEqSf_foUGL596ABPBrBP7INeSsY4L6Y1ZMCjxBLf-3HmMamOSLjmd7dOSAWpxhoAYzZzEu2V_3aW2s6Ra3mf45Emx3vN9ZKX9uyijh6rX_ywH5OMBt-JgFG8IiGVyM5uiD1b8N70n1eFLFmJPVj8Sd4Rj24BSjtbEBwFIAeGTddjZYw/s1209/20230826_132018.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxAQi49v-MS8ieEqSf_foUGL596ABPBrBP7INeSsY4L6Y1ZMCjxBLf-3HmMamOSLjmd7dOSAWpxhoAYzZzEu2V_3aW2s6Ra3mf45Emx3vN9ZKX9uyijh6rX_ywH5OMBt-JgFG8IiGVyM5uiD1b8N70n1eFLFmJPVj8Sd4Rj24BSjtbEBwFIAeGTddjZYw/s320/20230826_132018.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cercano, tra le altre figure, un camellero. Qualcuno interessato?</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Ripartiamo, dopo aver contattato l'ostello di Todos Santos dove ho prenotato. Ormai non mi fido più dei siti e delle mail, e ho bisogno una conferma a viva voce, o scritta per messaggio. Lo staff mi rassicura, ci aspettano. E quindi via, per gli ultimi 30km, che sono quasi in piano, ora.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3lpYw0GLall3asoJSSghklCugfqe2eMcZEajr3JhFmmiWEWSydTtKA7VO0BplC1rGnMQikkPPfDWbhU3mAyVaZSt6bbH2JUSwx7TEVk11rpa4qmhgWbUJJCdakX7R5NSdlp6W61WFTf8KLJVhXDgpMb16ewQ4uyHhAr6tlmoy-O2pSuLsz1J5hI37Jc/s1210/20230826_133928.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3lpYw0GLall3asoJSSghklCugfqe2eMcZEajr3JhFmmiWEWSydTtKA7VO0BplC1rGnMQikkPPfDWbhU3mAyVaZSt6bbH2JUSwx7TEVk11rpa4qmhgWbUJJCdakX7R5NSdlp6W61WFTf8KLJVhXDgpMb16ewQ4uyHhAr6tlmoy-O2pSuLsz1J5hI37Jc/s320/20230826_133928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VmxZmgW1SMFMxX8hKFnYCspCb6etE6nBiLquEwHeiC7yQcTB0WEs5wc9I1Sjuu1YZL22M84QTibdGCbejVDBzawMCG9cNP5ipx9Ig0tdmoYUdxtMUrjCBHpCqseooMXsxXTQm-vQQsO3zxUe1Fzrv0BUALqfaM2lAxXUPYYYU2pDXXCEF9qgKSvgj7Y/s1210/20230826_134004.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VmxZmgW1SMFMxX8hKFnYCspCb6etE6nBiLquEwHeiC7yQcTB0WEs5wc9I1Sjuu1YZL22M84QTibdGCbejVDBzawMCG9cNP5ipx9Ig0tdmoYUdxtMUrjCBHpCqseooMXsxXTQm-vQQsO3zxUe1Fzrv0BUALqfaM2lAxXUPYYYU2pDXXCEF9qgKSvgj7Y/s320/20230826_134004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVOuf11htqKKfhkE93ilxRpihtKzGIH4ifmsWnkcUoGox_8rX8I0OwvQpd2t9aakrQe1klrOLYXzcLiwVCbmazME75LTqcCrESjR_6GiB9UsF5Q_q354gIl5m0U4fP5xg7wWmVSZsVb_T14n9EtP8Z0XhpALRzmND44RwS61_Dns8AccICPlp0kBT4TE/s1112/20230826_134101.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="1112" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVOuf11htqKKfhkE93ilxRpihtKzGIH4ifmsWnkcUoGox_8rX8I0OwvQpd2t9aakrQe1klrOLYXzcLiwVCbmazME75LTqcCrESjR_6GiB9UsF5Q_q354gIl5m0U4fP5xg7wWmVSZsVb_T14n9EtP8Z0XhpALRzmND44RwS61_Dns8AccICPlp0kBT4TE/s320/20230826_134101.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0CcL7RsCb6TFoOSejeTS2YflH36eCY4_NuCR2f6PLg7jVDVn_nXFdfR3ypUmiW4fZsEV_gbhxRQbSPhN1WkhkxoAiez0Yrzq2M8oHVmEkIhCMH7gYgdQC80ZhpkI4IqN7dlreoOvWT_7cedxb_My_bmG4FPTYToE7L9ZL4u3tBVcvhd7NEEZl0xFf39k/s1209/20230826_140212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0CcL7RsCb6TFoOSejeTS2YflH36eCY4_NuCR2f6PLg7jVDVn_nXFdfR3ypUmiW4fZsEV_gbhxRQbSPhN1WkhkxoAiez0Yrzq2M8oHVmEkIhCMH7gYgdQC80ZhpkI4IqN7dlreoOvWT_7cedxb_My_bmG4FPTYToE7L9ZL4u3tBVcvhd7NEEZl0xFf39k/s320/20230826_140212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03wo50kB5vf4coz5-e8fbTpAaf6T-0WFgOvD9EGyfu5-H_7XxpzN0iy6yhMApV1UWLRz-J--6hVy7Jl0Metru-MoO9ppC7RsUMMxdSLynTwjUT6PvjcjTWZ5W6kZnMbtABrMWw2jfupHaEeDUZ-YdYXMYyR3l5Zu1V1lNLJRv6vzxq6-kiVnvwSSQNxo/s1209/20230826_140255.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03wo50kB5vf4coz5-e8fbTpAaf6T-0WFgOvD9EGyfu5-H_7XxpzN0iy6yhMApV1UWLRz-J--6hVy7Jl0Metru-MoO9ppC7RsUMMxdSLynTwjUT6PvjcjTWZ5W6kZnMbtABrMWw2jfupHaEeDUZ-YdYXMYyR3l5Zu1V1lNLJRv6vzxq6-kiVnvwSSQNxo/s320/20230826_140255.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBUjTauNDESR1Z6azZYYiaO7-8mDng8XtpqRUsDHub2M-pUXqL_cKnUIbRkVHX1ATxwfByfsniRh0h88B3blQlxRCF_aruVy7rY9R9ONqF0QRC4lCZy15dp5oHPwmHLrSWldk_6WOpPSYhmW8_ekP1BjYUcY3ZNs7QRAy6xt4hXMzbKh5R5vlXQoiHTzs/s1209/20230826_140317.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBUjTauNDESR1Z6azZYYiaO7-8mDng8XtpqRUsDHub2M-pUXqL_cKnUIbRkVHX1ATxwfByfsniRh0h88B3blQlxRCF_aruVy7rY9R9ONqF0QRC4lCZy15dp5oHPwmHLrSWldk_6WOpPSYhmW8_ekP1BjYUcY3ZNs7QRAy6xt4hXMzbKh5R5vlXQoiHTzs/s320/20230826_140317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriva finalmente il momento di lasciare la statale e imboccare la strada che conduce in paese, stretto tra basse colline e l'oceano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiM1Q4Vx9hXu_zyuMwGn8-QDxXImvJfSvtmijpGwVb_ide2e20sk255TyxRjAJl4ffI5_fI1a6IsMgs-p_Db1PRsRm2vn2TjjWdsikbGiW51WRLOAzdzqPdo0wmynxoQiCLLMXajtcSl4Trpks23SxVFyA400JuF9UK-xyV0mrvghrryTzpv955HF5_tI/s1209/20230826_150936.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiM1Q4Vx9hXu_zyuMwGn8-QDxXImvJfSvtmijpGwVb_ide2e20sk255TyxRjAJl4ffI5_fI1a6IsMgs-p_Db1PRsRm2vn2TjjWdsikbGiW51WRLOAzdzqPdo0wmynxoQiCLLMXajtcSl4Trpks23SxVFyA400JuF9UK-xyV0mrvghrryTzpv955HF5_tI/s320/20230826_150936.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlxZC6x1eMwyVHdL-EH0gJ7JmIdyjh6kOAEvEeuRGGcitRzLgcwwICA3H8117eiedGYQ2ueY2wHw5kvZQ9InIHfOPB1IR_ITM46TwXOghvtu534h3_pqg7H52fDamT6opAHQZC-A2_wYcJM16XweeoIDPjVQefqJ0D1ABgoMCLkP6Wo7dpN2-k7Ir3mp8/s1209/20230826_150939.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlxZC6x1eMwyVHdL-EH0gJ7JmIdyjh6kOAEvEeuRGGcitRzLgcwwICA3H8117eiedGYQ2ueY2wHw5kvZQ9InIHfOPB1IR_ITM46TwXOghvtu534h3_pqg7H52fDamT6opAHQZC-A2_wYcJM16XweeoIDPjVQefqJ0D1ABgoMCLkP6Wo7dpN2-k7Ir3mp8/s320/20230826_150939.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzWWwvEV-vfFY28xpeLN4tgocpVT6rQ-KKz-jWP-70oS1lUWsCfkWexDP05IYN0OpFTyvxJ7V-KqTqsAJ81rAWfJAkz2ujRfgoX_LajVQeWEVzt0j05qVc9hNwx5jZdwt5jvhw_VfvPPfqFwveb08uQgZA1tYXdt6Nc8R9lBlJtw7rNZtAURT8lVqY8eo/s1209/20230826_152304.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzWWwvEV-vfFY28xpeLN4tgocpVT6rQ-KKz-jWP-70oS1lUWsCfkWexDP05IYN0OpFTyvxJ7V-KqTqsAJ81rAWfJAkz2ujRfgoX_LajVQeWEVzt0j05qVc9hNwx5jZdwt5jvhw_VfvPPfqFwveb08uQgZA1tYXdt6Nc8R9lBlJtw7rNZtAURT8lVqY8eo/s320/20230826_152304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per raggiungere l'ostello dobbiamo lasciare la strada principale. Anche qui, fuori dalla via che passa in centro, non c'è asfalto, ma gran sabbia. Per fortuna abbiamo i copertoni tassellati! Anzi, ho. Gigi ormai ha una bici con scarpacce spaiate.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigb7iGruIgZX3Dmi0gErZQT_8V6XB2cIQWuSPP2E3X1ol00iFnFOrq09eczFwlHF0V-TsSL7g0hT_TyJl6rWp57ruKvjxOOtms9W7A6q2Bf9T8C_gP51EF_w1JOn7ePqYvcRPiity1CN049qTwo_9By0UPL9btxG9yUnQpwgGtW76XBtprLumFNi41dAM/s1209/20230826_152700.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigb7iGruIgZX3Dmi0gErZQT_8V6XB2cIQWuSPP2E3X1ol00iFnFOrq09eczFwlHF0V-TsSL7g0hT_TyJl6rWp57ruKvjxOOtms9W7A6q2Bf9T8C_gP51EF_w1JOn7ePqYvcRPiity1CN049qTwo_9By0UPL9btxG9yUnQpwgGtW76XBtprLumFNi41dAM/s320/20230826_152700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QV8M0owGuUTBNur4s2LY29NkdDLqOH4_DU9B9TQRc6uTXgsnOlvwjLKedxfNIeBFtkTcYVFs7a8xkVLv95Ukbqp_tcxbJ9gmaP18zYg64yiV89f1uHrzKhDMsU5EF8WTKcmbbfB1JqqxWD9Wzxt4WbzIMewaH1jI84bKKyExwexPeP4EFvOhxhqDtkk/s1209/20230826_152703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QV8M0owGuUTBNur4s2LY29NkdDLqOH4_DU9B9TQRc6uTXgsnOlvwjLKedxfNIeBFtkTcYVFs7a8xkVLv95Ukbqp_tcxbJ9gmaP18zYg64yiV89f1uHrzKhDMsU5EF8WTKcmbbfB1JqqxWD9Wzxt4WbzIMewaH1jI84bKKyExwexPeP4EFvOhxhqDtkk/s320/20230826_152703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Tra palme e cactus, mentre la musica echeggia dalle finestre aperte, aggiungiamo l'ostello, che costa come un hotel di lusso in altri luoghi del paese, ma è comunque l'opzione più economica, tolto il campeggio. Ci accoglie l'host con un sorrisone: anche lui è appassionato di bici e ama la MTB. Ci dà la camera, che è, in realtà, una casetta in miniatura, coloratissima e decorata da una artista franco-svizzera, Linda Kocher (le ho scritto su IG per farle i complimenti!).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8JCNZ6KibNBVhRxigFnaa2r0jtXX_rqcXdPvXtAIZVu33W1DZMamt2BVrGBYszd0LaY1-WXqAPrWS0JPzYv6ClddPT1txOgdOdvoRKl_7e2ivuYOak_arIdPULNiSTfsoHtLzkqGP3jfLfw4FXag9a5ugS8FAtMfQEgCMM5obyx0AENuwDQCz3gIDmY/s1209/20230826_153215.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8JCNZ6KibNBVhRxigFnaa2r0jtXX_rqcXdPvXtAIZVu33W1DZMamt2BVrGBYszd0LaY1-WXqAPrWS0JPzYv6ClddPT1txOgdOdvoRKl_7e2ivuYOak_arIdPULNiSTfsoHtLzkqGP3jfLfw4FXag9a5ugS8FAtMfQEgCMM5obyx0AENuwDQCz3gIDmY/s320/20230826_153215.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipodNdmmhB2ox1HVt55_K3BJFfD0EJS4xdhBurUcqzoFgcxy8muTCwoPtYOo15akNKYUKeDwULgwRKzeWRpYxZht8fTLjgFj9fK44Wr3EJgYt2w_HnPblEe2C8aDcL2UvF3DiyUXkUS-XN7C2cfUdeTzM91QGkJWcnddsd7gBb3-XkzM4dV7MjKh7cOiY/s1209/20230826_153757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipodNdmmhB2ox1HVt55_K3BJFfD0EJS4xdhBurUcqzoFgcxy8muTCwoPtYOo15akNKYUKeDwULgwRKzeWRpYxZht8fTLjgFj9fK44Wr3EJgYt2w_HnPblEe2C8aDcL2UvF3DiyUXkUS-XN7C2cfUdeTzM91QGkJWcnddsd7gBb3-XkzM4dV7MjKh7cOiY/s320/20230826_153757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pDD8zVfLZHCrh5pNrLVVHGBQgaWV5tI73Ntby0oNjedcC0Jt8n-ZoLu3yHzcelzSeN0KTfqyMwu_oWvAM0nUzcx8u2fjMfbbKoJVtbrU30QIVhszP2DViGKbqFyBqkrKOpHVfeeOay5V5612jC6CTFMp1b0xlHIy4xsJaDKstFBDDhEjmMzcG7v5jiM/s1209/20230826_154346.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pDD8zVfLZHCrh5pNrLVVHGBQgaWV5tI73Ntby0oNjedcC0Jt8n-ZoLu3yHzcelzSeN0KTfqyMwu_oWvAM0nUzcx8u2fjMfbbKoJVtbrU30QIVhszP2DViGKbqFyBqkrKOpHVfeeOay5V5612jC6CTFMp1b0xlHIy4xsJaDKstFBDDhEjmMzcG7v5jiM/s320/20230826_154346.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvsiP3gsLMeAPO79tbIWU4nKt9wG6Aco2fidlC4Q3UD4xofbOdAbaeOQ-RMUI0oyfbGCRjULolet9nQ-n0_Ss6TzmB3PhhxdC_Z5wXW8HFpbCY_iPETFclvOlzEgUE_RTXnvATZ_aw68Uv-mUWrRgeqZ9QmjKpoOfHa7wQT8RhkrB_RcDJGQRltUcciW8/s1209/20230826_154350.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvsiP3gsLMeAPO79tbIWU4nKt9wG6Aco2fidlC4Q3UD4xofbOdAbaeOQ-RMUI0oyfbGCRjULolet9nQ-n0_Ss6TzmB3PhhxdC_Z5wXW8HFpbCY_iPETFclvOlzEgUE_RTXnvATZ_aw68Uv-mUWrRgeqZ9QmjKpoOfHa7wQT8RhkrB_RcDJGQRltUcciW8/s320/20230826_154350.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6cZNwqsKeXk6OHuuVJa2zvVXO50Ml2A_HWBy1YGb2NFF-PCJ51ix_lo8wvS4LBgTZHmtK20K7FSbouFx1unFcYnPNeAs3hssuGPF54eADZIQxK948X3vnjrRxHpvqdwenv46Tziw7Wc-C78Zb8nRWds85-Bgf-D6c4KnQTRxNM27jhJI2VTCnQslf8As/s979/20230826_154401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6cZNwqsKeXk6OHuuVJa2zvVXO50Ml2A_HWBy1YGb2NFF-PCJ51ix_lo8wvS4LBgTZHmtK20K7FSbouFx1unFcYnPNeAs3hssuGPF54eADZIQxK948X3vnjrRxHpvqdwenv46Tziw7Wc-C78Zb8nRWds85-Bgf-D6c4KnQTRxNM27jhJI2VTCnQslf8As/s320/20230826_154401.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo esserci lavati e riposati un po', usciamo per ammirare il famoso tramonto sull'oceano che dà spettacolo ogni sera qui a Todos Santos e richiama un numero sempre maggiore di turisti, messicani e internazionali. La spiaggia è nascosta dalle colline, e per vedere il Pacifico (in questi punti non balneabile per l'insidiosa risacca) bisogna camminare tra sentieri e sterratini sempre meno abitati, salvo le ville e le case vacanze che si ergono nei punti più panoramici.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAC1HWvzp3qIjQ71CU3RW9DIrzMvQDdMzcRyW60XMVwoMMd8R3MGj6QB7uDN_oE8smGIA1ls_nrR5eDTTQsTp_TI4Pi1KDZdMHhwTiimFo-D6ydB5TWDBPsA8CArKAY7WXsOjJ6Bd1a5E1kuD0wbSGRD8xeOBoGos8tp3DsndKaIenJiaaXdVeRC8L_0/s1209/20230826_181703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAC1HWvzp3qIjQ71CU3RW9DIrzMvQDdMzcRyW60XMVwoMMd8R3MGj6QB7uDN_oE8smGIA1ls_nrR5eDTTQsTp_TI4Pi1KDZdMHhwTiimFo-D6ydB5TWDBPsA8CArKAY7WXsOjJ6Bd1a5E1kuD0wbSGRD8xeOBoGos8tp3DsndKaIenJiaaXdVeRC8L_0/s320/20230826_181703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh54ksnh5TQeRMyPh6kznUjKnS5nGqzu19UNusUtKK1NcvfP-l5-6kZYVAPYcjnI1mAgVfbEyjA402dj43SrbwvH1-TMUIrgAya3CFFKJY76ZQ6WHiD8PmnY15N1VQ4kO9__0JpyVTNStGQRagJwUyp3hDYdLMzHV5jxfTsIK4uHd0ml8pclqOQH8SO4Zs/s1209/20230826_182259.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh54ksnh5TQeRMyPh6kznUjKnS5nGqzu19UNusUtKK1NcvfP-l5-6kZYVAPYcjnI1mAgVfbEyjA402dj43SrbwvH1-TMUIrgAya3CFFKJY76ZQ6WHiD8PmnY15N1VQ4kO9__0JpyVTNStGQRagJwUyp3hDYdLMzHV5jxfTsIK4uHd0ml8pclqOQH8SO4Zs/s320/20230826_182259.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2wOnwGskfTEd-T3gknt3dS7DPhxH6D8LhB2fuSnMgGV58RoGcIUP6osGPypvZYbgf5VymrFVMkgV4bW3N8kuIs-7b1SsUIfjP0OBbcv7nj6XjUJwMD3bPecl_kgHLE8ufeDE__JnMzrN6muij1IPG7sn9vIb8OenASK-UhcWmSUYYCq3XA8LyaedklI/s1209/20230826_182620.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2wOnwGskfTEd-T3gknt3dS7DPhxH6D8LhB2fuSnMgGV58RoGcIUP6osGPypvZYbgf5VymrFVMkgV4bW3N8kuIs-7b1SsUIfjP0OBbcv7nj6XjUJwMD3bPecl_kgHLE8ufeDE__JnMzrN6muij1IPG7sn9vIb8OenASK-UhcWmSUYYCq3XA8LyaedklI/s320/20230826_182620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjqRwPMdmpXZD1yV0ytOmEkAk3aUacILGIKkHZvtL20Oy9yF-KNXwR8286KUGJHxmjPPm6tqweVfPHUUnELS8w9GKBHJdHbpJHITSrNlHg_p-s8CpND3b5UVCinJNipDV9NOLN9kY7-gF2fvl5vtOgVBZfbzFkObKepDzQ9su5sZwkX3INKp7Bf0UD-M/s1209/20230826_182624.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjqRwPMdmpXZD1yV0ytOmEkAk3aUacILGIKkHZvtL20Oy9yF-KNXwR8286KUGJHxmjPPm6tqweVfPHUUnELS8w9GKBHJdHbpJHITSrNlHg_p-s8CpND3b5UVCinJNipDV9NOLN9kY7-gF2fvl5vtOgVBZfbzFkObKepDzQ9su5sZwkX3INKp7Bf0UD-M/s320/20230826_182624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfj7H0KU83R_gvKecQHm77LkhzfvkC-bFfvTvoavGwyN28SnDgUiC2bWuG8OnP_4vaXBkDPl38PiCt56C7UudWOhe-4tt0Q9g4AC5de9mhZIcTPGie8TrsMaW0bd_EXi6om3acplCOSpDtw08XbJAMekqyx38PrWQPFZdk5in3zaqCILXzQFT8oSYAWBo/s1209/20230826_182855.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfj7H0KU83R_gvKecQHm77LkhzfvkC-bFfvTvoavGwyN28SnDgUiC2bWuG8OnP_4vaXBkDPl38PiCt56C7UudWOhe-4tt0Q9g4AC5de9mhZIcTPGie8TrsMaW0bd_EXi6om3acplCOSpDtw08XbJAMekqyx38PrWQPFZdk5in3zaqCILXzQFT8oSYAWBo/s320/20230826_182855.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD__rU1o8ZFBSfueIGXu3eg17fMMGZ7P7Geaj_QQFo5QUcHAKUTJxKiSQPgY1H7Udsk5H1ommvNsr6fEl_2cEFUpqGTchcGYQvhiDhTQnjFrrHXvzLuRGS4Qjvf7Gi73KjJcbkGO2Qh24UlVnd1JsIn7wAz4Y4IUJov7pyc02ZFFyYks_X8pb7AXRLziU/s1209/20230826_183531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD__rU1o8ZFBSfueIGXu3eg17fMMGZ7P7Geaj_QQFo5QUcHAKUTJxKiSQPgY1H7Udsk5H1ommvNsr6fEl_2cEFUpqGTchcGYQvhiDhTQnjFrrHXvzLuRGS4Qjvf7Gi73KjJcbkGO2Qh24UlVnd1JsIn7wAz4Y4IUJov7pyc02ZFFyYks_X8pb7AXRLziU/s320/20230826_183531.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non facciamo in tempo a raggiungere la battigia prima che il sole scompaia del tutto dietro l'ultimo orizzonte, ma riusciamo comunque a goderci lo spettacolo dalla collina/mirador che affaccia alla spiaggia, tra i palmeti e le dune di sabbia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPbPzLq0k1wi1tnSw47ykfFUlMjhMGiwPM77pmqRzOAsZCCiqIoyjppwFkxEQjp2Yk5YGqQfRXKQ3c5ertCwQTYq0diziz62GT4G1NvBNr2I5RkOw1WYM-oihHa8qq6CNW64IBlUYmWD5MZr53p7RDojoRstZJ57fywjS89SKkdP1nNI-4jRgjgjwQp8/s1209/20230826_184231.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPbPzLq0k1wi1tnSw47ykfFUlMjhMGiwPM77pmqRzOAsZCCiqIoyjppwFkxEQjp2Yk5YGqQfRXKQ3c5ertCwQTYq0diziz62GT4G1NvBNr2I5RkOw1WYM-oihHa8qq6CNW64IBlUYmWD5MZr53p7RDojoRstZJ57fywjS89SKkdP1nNI-4jRgjgjwQp8/s320/20230826_184231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOCpioYguWiI45XSR1ud3E5AwP0Eeukc9vhj3Btl07ZviUZQBCt6qSjfoKrlMu5kxIGSVZYQJ6rsUcNzNJkei4UZoTTOiMrqNOdOQwAu3oIXpS0Vt_uWxcnZENY5bXKQgDSOhi3r0x6ThMGjFO9ZBH6jVwxE7AqaOxfXYP57jOqrW_RjpvYixsIu6rXs/s1209/20230826_185346.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVOCpioYguWiI45XSR1ud3E5AwP0Eeukc9vhj3Btl07ZviUZQBCt6qSjfoKrlMu5kxIGSVZYQJ6rsUcNzNJkei4UZoTTOiMrqNOdOQwAu3oIXpS0Vt_uWxcnZENY5bXKQgDSOhi3r0x6ThMGjFO9ZBH6jVwxE7AqaOxfXYP57jOqrW_RjpvYixsIu6rXs/s320/20230826_185346.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_oKq5nPEgkspJSGZ1OwwUWiSlpahicxgd5vAiDXu6A47dqebhPYupD83IdScKhS9C41In35P_9q0ITXYLbq1SoG8NTamW7PlCwyPWn_YQ3QYVngMUmAeDCkVtaZ8ItxcATcVvvvmUa4b2wT1o43vIGSr3QnmelOhcbFevvcBbO8vOxB5W-2mpkejJQM/s1209/20230826_185440.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_oKq5nPEgkspJSGZ1OwwUWiSlpahicxgd5vAiDXu6A47dqebhPYupD83IdScKhS9C41In35P_9q0ITXYLbq1SoG8NTamW7PlCwyPWn_YQ3QYVngMUmAeDCkVtaZ8ItxcATcVvvvmUa4b2wT1o43vIGSr3QnmelOhcbFevvcBbO8vOxB5W-2mpkejJQM/s320/20230826_185440.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNe1Z0pDnJq-WtWPoF16vnibtgy2FtuEobjzn8eL4X2hHG3A-nYf-kolbwQaoVSmRKnlzVucu3Wmc49MeppR3AWTVi7OYZRcUFKqp4bJKSq9_wsFBdq70juDOafickJJrI2Hk7W5-s2sy1YdpS4TBRyGv8rCWD1hBL9df3wSwfPNqjMAw8PtiS3D3k5qc/s1209/20230826_185547.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNe1Z0pDnJq-WtWPoF16vnibtgy2FtuEobjzn8eL4X2hHG3A-nYf-kolbwQaoVSmRKnlzVucu3Wmc49MeppR3AWTVi7OYZRcUFKqp4bJKSq9_wsFBdq70juDOafickJJrI2Hk7W5-s2sy1YdpS4TBRyGv8rCWD1hBL9df3wSwfPNqjMAw8PtiS3D3k5qc/s320/20230826_185547.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">un serpone!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Dopo aver bevuto la luce lilla e rossa fino all'ultima goccia, torniamo verso il centro, a far spesa, per poi cenare in ostello, mentre un gruppo di surfisti americani canta e suona chitarre, e un ragazzo biondone flirta con l'host, che sembra abbastanza a disagio. La cena è allietata anche dalla presenza di due gatti tanto coccolosi quanto affamati e ficcanaso, che mi ricordano molto i miei. Ad esempio, non mi permettono di manovrare il cibo in santa pace. Saltano sulla tavola per rubacchiare e tentano ogni strategia pur di attirare attenzione. I gatti fanno i gatti in tutto il mondo!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIheSAVqPRTkRm9w6KzZXF9Lz2QK1IS5AveXQ6zoP6j11VFZRmJDTbO-8bDC440z3JObGAyCm6bxIqT8nsur6QECTo7ZIev5WSoCHXQ4Z__kr2IgvOXfggGyBNRLSeIbf4Y5bwywCwgzDHdiNu1gRv6aGbPYnKkhmilaES4fPJKl4DbYJvCVbLQtQ4e0/s1209/20230826_200757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIheSAVqPRTkRm9w6KzZXF9Lz2QK1IS5AveXQ6zoP6j11VFZRmJDTbO-8bDC440z3JObGAyCm6bxIqT8nsur6QECTo7ZIev5WSoCHXQ4Z__kr2IgvOXfggGyBNRLSeIbf4Y5bwywCwgzDHdiNu1gRv6aGbPYnKkhmilaES4fPJKl4DbYJvCVbLQtQ4e0/s320/20230826_200757.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5otGZ1oIiUaYJlkIpavkgCkSKuc6MEDiXfToQrWyEX_J3JhfebmPEf1JvEdl7_4-X08L7V2aeUdrsV2j8uvpni1W9Z0tHSMldU0NcfiFLhJexg7Xs7BJ_4IsjNx3D2qbh8UerqoBAqTdp5CW4pREtIsxno1OBvzF9jPwBoFIHLxaJeyUdVG_we0O6wbc/s1209/20230826_200818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5otGZ1oIiUaYJlkIpavkgCkSKuc6MEDiXfToQrWyEX_J3JhfebmPEf1JvEdl7_4-X08L7V2aeUdrsV2j8uvpni1W9Z0tHSMldU0NcfiFLhJexg7Xs7BJ_4IsjNx3D2qbh8UerqoBAqTdp5CW4pREtIsxno1OBvzF9jPwBoFIHLxaJeyUdVG_we0O6wbc/s320/20230826_200818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>La sera trascorre poi tranquilla, nell'aria finalmente fresca, con risate e musica in lontananza e il profumo intenso della frutta maturissima, quasi pronta a fermentare, che casca dagli alberi del cortile (mango, soprattutto. Mango a dirlo).</div><div><br /></div><div>Questo pueblo magico, che è un mix curioso tra il turistico, il new age e il volutamente primitiveggiante e poco modernizzato, gode di un clima mite tutto l'anno, come fosse sempre primavera, ed è perciò chiamato la Cuernavaca della Baja Sur. Grazie a questo è un'oasi di palme e coltivazioni di frutta tropicale, e non una distesa di cactus e cespugli come i dintorni. La zona, prima della conquista, era popolata da Guaycuras, che qui trovavano acqua dolce e conchiglie. Gli europei fondarono una missione subordinata a quella di La Paz solo nel 1724, abitata stabilmente nell'anno successivo. Un gesuita di Lodi, padre Taraval, ne fece una missione indipendente nel 1733. L'anno successivo tutto fu distrutto durante la rivolta indigena, e Taraval si salvò a malapena, fuggendo di nuovo a La Paz. I nativi furono poi ripagati con la stessa moneta, sia con le armi, sia con le malattie infettive (morbillo, vaiolo e sifilide, portate in dono sulle navi provenienti dall'Asia). Morirono 5/6 degli indigeni in meno di dieci anni. Nel 1768 i gesuiti furono espulsi dai domini spagnoli, e subentrarono i francescani, prima, e i domenicani, poi, anche se ormai la missione aveva perso importanza. Nel 1840 fu abbandonata del tutto. In quegli anni ci furono schermaglie con navi cilene intenzionate a sottomettere i porti principali della penisola. Nel 1842 le terre della chiesa furono ridistribuite, con resistenze e battaglie conseguenti. Ma iniziò così il periodo più florido della città, che si specializzò nella produzione di zucchero di canna. C'erano ben 8 aziende attive, che portarono ricchezza e lavoro; si costruirono edifici coloniali, teatri... E alcuni artisti si trasferirono qui, dando a Todos Santos quell'aspetto di rifugio dei creativi belli e maledetti che ha un po' ancora oggi. Durante l'invasione statunitense si combattè qui a lungo, e persino l'ultima battaglia, a guerra già quasi finita, motivo per cui la Baja non divenne mai California a stelle e strisce. I gringos furono cacciati con olio e acqua bollente, dopo aver ceduto alle lusinghe delle donne locali. Lo stesso avvenne poco dopo con i francesi. E così via, di guerra in guerra, fino al secolo breve, quando il boom dello zucchero si arrestò a causa della siccità e del crollo dei prezzi. Anche la coltivazione della frutta, ripiego inevitabile, negli anni '90 fu funestata da malattie delle piante e invasioni di moscerini. Perciò molti terreni furono ridestinati al turismo. Tra fine anni '90 e primi 2000 iniziarono a ritirarsi qui artisti, musicisti, pittori e scrittori statunitensi, marcando nuovamente l'impronta culturale di Todos Santos. Quindi sono state aperte gallerie d'arte, botteghe di maestri artigiani e si organizzano festival di ogni genere. Questo ha portato anche discreta migrazione, attratta dall'offerta di lavoro. C'è anche un hotel... Ma ne parliamo domani!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>27/8</div><div>Todos los Santos-La Paz</div><div>87km</div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi è l'ultima tappa. Questo pensiero mi agita al punto da disturbarmi il sonno. Non so perchè. Forse vorrei che il viaggio proseguisse. Forse vorrei tornare, ma senza la fatica logistica e organizzativa che ciò comporta. Forse non vorrei tornare affatto. Dalle 6, comunque, sono sveglia, e inizio a brigare per chiudere le borse per bene, per questa giornata importante che mette un punto fermo. Poi preparo la colazione, in compagnia di Piña</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ws9ceJW8SKtXY2GeHAHU6XbJRPZbyL52xA0dKY43kjUlFG9iW2Va8CVfkk36Q6TmcYahWyxKnSAr2NuxZ0GlJUfTQ21A4DzQcD8hBcpdLGyn4BKOFIrXzwW0A9GGv4uWoSYX8-Kt8TQMJ59_gSavm7oY4KYinKEhkC0YiSUAyMJdxnOObOCq3IV9-rs/s989/20230827_071051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ws9ceJW8SKtXY2GeHAHU6XbJRPZbyL52xA0dKY43kjUlFG9iW2Va8CVfkk36Q6TmcYahWyxKnSAr2NuxZ0GlJUfTQ21A4DzQcD8hBcpdLGyn4BKOFIrXzwW0A9GGv4uWoSYX8-Kt8TQMJ59_gSavm7oY4KYinKEhkC0YiSUAyMJdxnOObOCq3IV9-rs/s320/20230827_071051.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif_3FRUEiu1UHxAGm7oM1jhw2SCcA--JoXM3txpiUIxv8eLq4j3cNv9P3Qrz-UVx4p0MSH3zNSMwmN5ebitwDAR9GhjgtEYiKrTZQ_h0XuZiE1QbCG5LjRydVHX5WsHZJZC24ISkdcAma8dQRRPNKRv3qDgKGD_lpLhPtO6q7r5c4gcd083rjntPKzrEM/s989/20230827_071059.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif_3FRUEiu1UHxAGm7oM1jhw2SCcA--JoXM3txpiUIxv8eLq4j3cNv9P3Qrz-UVx4p0MSH3zNSMwmN5ebitwDAR9GhjgtEYiKrTZQ_h0XuZiE1QbCG5LjRydVHX5WsHZJZC24ISkdcAma8dQRRPNKRv3qDgKGD_lpLhPtO6q7r5c4gcd083rjntPKzrEM/s320/20230827_071059.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando torno in camera, trovo Gigi che smadonna: ha forato. Ancora. Anche oggi. Anche l'ultimo giorno. Ma che sfiga! Ha ben tre minuscoli fili di acciaio conficcati nel copertone, come i chiodi della croce. E quindi, prima di bere il nostro sacrosanto tè al miele, via di riparazione. Siamo già sudati marci alle 7 del mattino. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2fnQoFuU5GeLnVHgLp9xPvYtKN4T362BoVHQVBccKnJZH_iD4J7ZdXTSirGMG6GTX5AXljGTTTKt1XIKUK1GW8LJEhNSgJYiBRJzLRdUQCjHjKASrpM16lEulDAk1GyeO8iKJG_doU_zZdtoxQdZI8W6Xp-HE7RUNw-_Q3ZMTEiDT3h9O0zb4iTM5II/s1209/20230827_074002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2fnQoFuU5GeLnVHgLp9xPvYtKN4T362BoVHQVBccKnJZH_iD4J7ZdXTSirGMG6GTX5AXljGTTTKt1XIKUK1GW8LJEhNSgJYiBRJzLRdUQCjHjKASrpM16lEulDAk1GyeO8iKJG_doU_zZdtoxQdZI8W6Xp-HE7RUNw-_Q3ZMTEiDT3h9O0zb4iTM5II/s320/20230827_074002.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Sistemato tutto e contattati gli host di La Paz, che ci concedono un soggiorno nella bellissima Casa turquesa, ci lasciamo l'ostello alle spalle, ripercorrendo le vie di sabbia in salita, verso la statale. Altra faticaccia da infarto di prima mattina.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl4LoCYJA-Z8pvucemqHSkC9wvJ6nZAWsCF58HUCeIKAy2rZbW4cZjfNuOA7YVfc2ZTAldzlDtBLj6fcXgOkyp1PRqaZiBQZLtvDVFIIWvDq2fCJnw8etwLlmZAlCMxZFWXFHstNV_U7Z0Yi1PZDzSUcPs_kMRRc2tUM2twnYN4vmWV7um3Vywdu_oKYE/s1209/20230827_084752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl4LoCYJA-Z8pvucemqHSkC9wvJ6nZAWsCF58HUCeIKAy2rZbW4cZjfNuOA7YVfc2ZTAldzlDtBLj6fcXgOkyp1PRqaZiBQZLtvDVFIIWvDq2fCJnw8etwLlmZAlCMxZFWXFHstNV_U7Z0Yi1PZDzSUcPs_kMRRc2tUM2twnYN4vmWV7um3Vywdu_oKYE/s320/20230827_084752.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU5wiTJueNKW0Nzw1gZSflpkWvzQUbanAwcaWkM8Zm_KeO_CTzp_cfQEWMURGiUin09j6TfbyW5TAIgteISNa582dRVxzz3FCZ60e9dbhj7ZgFIwQMeDkkI2D_a0ye69OnCGH8ZmVgIm6L3bs3p3hmQHZOVXigyY-h1eo0qclbpdn1jj2ALL_fm6r-P8/s1209/20230827_084927.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU5wiTJueNKW0Nzw1gZSflpkWvzQUbanAwcaWkM8Zm_KeO_CTzp_cfQEWMURGiUin09j6TfbyW5TAIgteISNa582dRVxzz3FCZ60e9dbhj7ZgFIwQMeDkkI2D_a0ye69OnCGH8ZmVgIm6L3bs3p3hmQHZOVXigyY-h1eo0qclbpdn1jj2ALL_fm6r-P8/s320/20230827_084927.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi30Bp7JXdJ2_IPybtKFf7CO6SJRKookWgfIo9BceLFoxSEtKMdDQ9JmmsaXfkTWhpgzbMnJsCVJKQX40Ln6MkpA_-hzwVcFmICf0IUYITvDGra0DYI7mzKFtQbzcY6RPSUDw4AZC-2oMX7SocRNe04E3SfrJzcEP9I_mRIRi8WC2gfYSItO0NzwY1GAqU/s1209/20230827_084934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi30Bp7JXdJ2_IPybtKFf7CO6SJRKookWgfIo9BceLFoxSEtKMdDQ9JmmsaXfkTWhpgzbMnJsCVJKQX40Ln6MkpA_-hzwVcFmICf0IUYITvDGra0DYI7mzKFtQbzcY6RPSUDw4AZC-2oMX7SocRNe04E3SfrJzcEP9I_mRIRi8WC2gfYSItO0NzwY1GAqU/s320/20230827_084934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TFrxhUhYEbByyKLCcEL_pgR2lODmirs2kMiqVnZfbz8SJmetjWTtNdVuefnXZ1CviSoIkMK83qr1fTyBDmoszYH6uCRieSbfoDSpW4A0WziCyF4c5-cAdGFnhDCNXqL_WVJUtjKZUO7Az693XtviWm3ZxU2-SV_vt9jhRcCVClH-631JeR_MtoWSj8s/s1209/20230827_085139.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TFrxhUhYEbByyKLCcEL_pgR2lODmirs2kMiqVnZfbz8SJmetjWTtNdVuefnXZ1CviSoIkMK83qr1fTyBDmoszYH6uCRieSbfoDSpW4A0WziCyF4c5-cAdGFnhDCNXqL_WVJUtjKZUO7Az693XtviWm3ZxU2-SV_vt9jhRcCVClH-631JeR_MtoWSj8s/s320/20230827_085139.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finalmente torniamo all'asfalto, anche se non alla pianura. Attraversiamo il centro della cittadina, che ancora sonnecchia. I negozi sono chiusi, per lo più, e qualche ciclista in MTB sta allacciando il casco per una pedalata tra le colline. Inevitabilmente passiamo davanti a quella che è ed è stata l'attrazione turistica più famosa di Todos los Santos: l'Hotel California. La leggenda metropolitana, fomentata dai proprietari, vuole che la famosissima canzone degli Eagle omonima sia stata composta dopo un soggiorno proprio qui. Per anni l'Hotel California ha venduto questa storia, attirando curiosi, fan e turisti. Peccato si tratti di una bufala! Nessuno dei membri della band statunitense ha mai alloggiato da queste parti, e la canzone non fa riferimento a questa struttura. C'è stata anche una lunga controversia giudiziaria, vinta dagli Eagle, che ha smentito del tutto la menzogna, gran campagna di marketing a suo tempo, con tanto di bus organizzati, concerti con cover band e feste a tema.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpaBKLAW9u3sbrVgn0iCAxm03Lls5kHI_vL5hYEzr0vyF5_pbQUXJ-9Aqztil16ej90q-Mfab4PNhnxoV1OPjZ_jKlqfUVEIKxW5gSdzaSt1Y7pAWkHQIX0m9y5x6TbuOlc-5jWo_YxpZ1GupxeuZtc-CzW_74Kbu_KpC1vUcouDk77x1ZYOIJt1deN6s/s1209/20230827_085732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpaBKLAW9u3sbrVgn0iCAxm03Lls5kHI_vL5hYEzr0vyF5_pbQUXJ-9Aqztil16ej90q-Mfab4PNhnxoV1OPjZ_jKlqfUVEIKxW5gSdzaSt1Y7pAWkHQIX0m9y5x6TbuOlc-5jWo_YxpZ1GupxeuZtc-CzW_74Kbu_KpC1vUcouDk77x1ZYOIJt1deN6s/s320/20230827_085732.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8GyY09KDdIyr1zPEispK8ZV97Wtm6oE2Ybgw3EfwPg2UG14AuPr2Cb7L8GfEH7OXcBNKMk0gcm3rMsH5vZy1fxD_XhEY7eab9J2ckMLeUhNy5ji6IAiov2MoRC-JyDxFUMvGvhmdhTjVwNHU28TqOiDrvEAXw_ulls_dvmX1FlYH4mORy2cCx2D-2jc/s1209/20230827_085914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8GyY09KDdIyr1zPEispK8ZV97Wtm6oE2Ybgw3EfwPg2UG14AuPr2Cb7L8GfEH7OXcBNKMk0gcm3rMsH5vZy1fxD_XhEY7eab9J2ckMLeUhNy5ji6IAiov2MoRC-JyDxFUMvGvhmdhTjVwNHU28TqOiDrvEAXw_ulls_dvmX1FlYH4mORy2cCx2D-2jc/s320/20230827_085914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeAg2Wp7edV0LbeCi2xMa7S_DWJo46aR39SAM16nNF2FhyBVX1I8ccKvQImfWF_6fLNqqxsE1c0I_kzwrgRR0SWsyfXAALvoZVTWq81T84DB4lDU9BB0FTpOQhGEHAHhDi2MhnG1y2FL9JtOjyo-0FZGHUD_h7DvBvyxLRMwpP_jVrPy6ht_Rws4nIjM/s979/20230827_085926.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeAg2Wp7edV0LbeCi2xMa7S_DWJo46aR39SAM16nNF2FhyBVX1I8ccKvQImfWF_6fLNqqxsE1c0I_kzwrgRR0SWsyfXAALvoZVTWq81T84DB4lDU9BB0FTpOQhGEHAHhDi2MhnG1y2FL9JtOjyo-0FZGHUD_h7DvBvyxLRMwpP_jVrPy6ht_Rws4nIjM/s320/20230827_085926.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noi ci fermiamo giusto per una foto, e proseguiamo tra gallerie e negozietti. Passiamo oltre anche al centro culturale, dove ci sarebbero dei bei murales a tema rivoluzione e la ricostruzione di alcune abitazioni tradizionali. Non abbiamo testa, oggi, per attardarci. C'è un'ansia dell'arrivare, del finire, che ci spinge avanti. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4WVBSC2CXWGgBQDIxPvY0PVB65tRL-oh6afwiGN3cFweHdFFGCmPBxGwO4GVm7qWODbyAnUspyqhA0cgbQsCxg9Q6OCwxBjKgnfeE5mvRtAQH_WszYxF9NC4439hW5vC61GqhiHYMYfWVdIryj12VqCIgOIKm2yBJk5DoPNPo1Fso2FZjflyiX5Ex0E/s1209/20230827_090113.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4WVBSC2CXWGgBQDIxPvY0PVB65tRL-oh6afwiGN3cFweHdFFGCmPBxGwO4GVm7qWODbyAnUspyqhA0cgbQsCxg9Q6OCwxBjKgnfeE5mvRtAQH_WszYxF9NC4439hW5vC61GqhiHYMYfWVdIryj12VqCIgOIKm2yBJk5DoPNPo1Fso2FZjflyiX5Ex0E/s320/20230827_090113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt839Zm2AjI7lG2VDmqFdKPLsL-a55HUbvVkdv5KDZo-FTEEmYn-vl2cyCcu7eU0saTI_O_01k2er-PRMbpRChMW5hA6C1lFUNxswoQQ4TkjGmBzGNFn6Kc3hLuiGWUoXd29RMsrvylu7Lsl0Dci5bLbFVsBFW4UnKmWNTCFH-VJ4ht1l35W2bCZyawIU/s1209/20230827_090116.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt839Zm2AjI7lG2VDmqFdKPLsL-a55HUbvVkdv5KDZo-FTEEmYn-vl2cyCcu7eU0saTI_O_01k2er-PRMbpRChMW5hA6C1lFUNxswoQQ4TkjGmBzGNFn6Kc3hLuiGWUoXd29RMsrvylu7Lsl0Dci5bLbFVsBFW4UnKmWNTCFH-VJ4ht1l35W2bCZyawIU/s320/20230827_090116.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9zlefTTKyCAihcDCGQEYY4x6tT3HVvkZMt2vQGppRDdZfVAyW1t6sjAidQGtjfjsKgKoJdxgaS0RElWZBCxMtUhCc7nY4XShY2IQNFB1twsboBbzmSkudxCBWBeKLpOgtQUoAYKz-BMnsLOkxRDyGluZSDWGkmD3bGzldvRX3LDRpw5ANPQ-InKaJAM/s1209/20230827_090122.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt9zlefTTKyCAihcDCGQEYY4x6tT3HVvkZMt2vQGppRDdZfVAyW1t6sjAidQGtjfjsKgKoJdxgaS0RElWZBCxMtUhCc7nY4XShY2IQNFB1twsboBbzmSkudxCBWBeKLpOgtQUoAYKz-BMnsLOkxRDyGluZSDWGkmD3bGzldvRX3LDRpw5ANPQ-InKaJAM/s320/20230827_090122.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRM0WCFjrtExm8FEDuACZOeec90y1KsLmABBxHeBBivDmuss0zzcOuRL0Yqjt75dXccHDmLqTtdDjx-rSSyu6HZKsE2icuMwHEM6O8qEKtFCDZGTlo5ex6TbbhZUjpLnO7xt2c_CPAi6PcfnEu5u-iTFrEJxxCkmi3GORpxx5NAncJZ1G3yQe_C_2G_hE/s1209/20230827_090129.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRM0WCFjrtExm8FEDuACZOeec90y1KsLmABBxHeBBivDmuss0zzcOuRL0Yqjt75dXccHDmLqTtdDjx-rSSyu6HZKsE2icuMwHEM6O8qEKtFCDZGTlo5ex6TbbhZUjpLnO7xt2c_CPAi6PcfnEu5u-iTFrEJxxCkmi3GORpxx5NAncJZ1G3yQe_C_2G_hE/s320/20230827_090129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRxZcKZoGb-fsVRTFqdkROjQhHnNLhhvxLKeN18Rfh2SbEr0vtucWCr39Qw9LRaB5z94_gZyV4y0ZNLYCWVEuU1hT1mjZzlRRGINupgChWZN6S239qPUZ7f3olourTsJUx7c-v_nmnYYGeHG3LLWunbZi7AkXpDh718Hi6eCDBAxet99CPnT8A94znDNk/s979/20230827_090159.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRxZcKZoGb-fsVRTFqdkROjQhHnNLhhvxLKeN18Rfh2SbEr0vtucWCr39Qw9LRaB5z94_gZyV4y0ZNLYCWVEuU1hT1mjZzlRRGINupgChWZN6S239qPUZ7f3olourTsJUx7c-v_nmnYYGeHG3LLWunbZi7AkXpDh718Hi6eCDBAxet99CPnT8A94znDNk/s320/20230827_090159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQsvV9XAIZI0Mjgs_l1SHS6MQJ4hjvW7pNyWB9ryrOzktSf-YvLMYNDyN70nPuRpJyuFfggoMlwEQvnf03e56hJ3TAuA9uUyrCAx9NFbFIs681gIZHc_c6yBDcCaE-EuiYnZJTLo7PlrGfcPTEfWSeewnNYlzydakU4dHCo4932JB0JjqOp5cT2Nsm9g/s1209/20230827_090205.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQsvV9XAIZI0Mjgs_l1SHS6MQJ4hjvW7pNyWB9ryrOzktSf-YvLMYNDyN70nPuRpJyuFfggoMlwEQvnf03e56hJ3TAuA9uUyrCAx9NFbFIs681gIZHc_c6yBDcCaE-EuiYnZJTLo7PlrGfcPTEfWSeewnNYlzydakU4dHCo4932JB0JjqOp5cT2Nsm9g/s320/20230827_090205.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I primi kilometri, come sempre, ci rimettono al nostro posto e ci fanno tornare umili. Salite, vento contrario, fondo ballerino, cani che ci inseguono... Insomma, rallentiamo, rallentiamo tantissimo, e gli 80km che ci separano dalle meta sembrano allungarsi all'infinito, come se srotolassero per anni luce tra galassie lontane. La Paz è un puntino microscopico, una stella di altri mondi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEityaEJZ2Wx3WQxqNLC7XtHtxyofrz01ozpz2VXMwpogCejzkcukWZ-e9pZbPOzd9NfwI2XNKjX-1pSmT6yh_B-6xtMFd_D4AoibaaSF0B6fv6eoL-OLcqouHOBM7infRWknpFv3egpCCB6eZS39Dej3MMHA9EcZ7VTjq4T6XQKG88AQH8wDlOwYg4OQWY/s1209/20230827_091843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEityaEJZ2Wx3WQxqNLC7XtHtxyofrz01ozpz2VXMwpogCejzkcukWZ-e9pZbPOzd9NfwI2XNKjX-1pSmT6yh_B-6xtMFd_D4AoibaaSF0B6fv6eoL-OLcqouHOBM7infRWknpFv3egpCCB6eZS39Dej3MMHA9EcZ7VTjq4T6XQKG88AQH8wDlOwYg4OQWY/s320/20230827_091843.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Su una delle salite, mentre vado così piano che son poco meno che ferma, incrocio lo sguardo con Pacho l'orso. E' lì, abbandonato, nella sabbia. Non è malconcio, rotto o lurido, come tanti giocattoli che si vedono tra l'immondizia abbandonata in giro. E' in buona salute, solo non ha più la bocca perchè ha visto cose che non può raccontare. Che fare? Lasciarlo lì a marcire? Mai! Poi è l'ultima tappa, un carico extra è concesso. Quindi imbarco Pacho, sotto allo sguardo incredulo di Gigi.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswcsnDcYQElG2xXXIO80cmiJZOaE8Ni9wjC0ianlKP-ddxPEGF6tXJfZa7s8nsZgIN22Mf5EpPCWaim1IXhWvrJQKyWKNm78ImuxZqfG8C6-vQzPIWMbOYTU0oYFe5EvWgnLwRhwFEeHCIJBGtIOD3y4K23hEUxtqGzqAL1Ng55SUcMkcmUK0OGWLE_0/s1209/20230827_102019.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswcsnDcYQElG2xXXIO80cmiJZOaE8Ni9wjC0ianlKP-ddxPEGF6tXJfZa7s8nsZgIN22Mf5EpPCWaim1IXhWvrJQKyWKNm78ImuxZqfG8C6-vQzPIWMbOYTU0oYFe5EvWgnLwRhwFEeHCIJBGtIOD3y4K23hEUxtqGzqAL1Ng55SUcMkcmUK0OGWLE_0/s320/20230827_102019.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGAo0sWUlBEvavr0xFA5bPgkGoIPVWunOZWJ2W6IBa-PR8yv-kDHFXbmL22lW2CqZJ_f-RbRfikwtv2XNj76RinByvYovyRS-7eEcUZkBNf33O7grz_EA5I8r9P35LwIeTShl0QrG4gBQ6QGBJeJuD4v2A26nb2-DbVbdtEiV5k3t6YMN14bz-S6xXxEY/s1209/20230827_102022.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGAo0sWUlBEvavr0xFA5bPgkGoIPVWunOZWJ2W6IBa-PR8yv-kDHFXbmL22lW2CqZJ_f-RbRfikwtv2XNj76RinByvYovyRS-7eEcUZkBNf33O7grz_EA5I8r9P35LwIeTShl0QrG4gBQ6QGBJeJuD4v2A26nb2-DbVbdtEiV5k3t6YMN14bz-S6xXxEY/s320/20230827_102022.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAym5A0yZwDzAdvNQVxf2WQAzPDAaiEhBJt51vVpvQ_SugV4BzGrBWKrRI4kmlGC71wSBIarQMGV7qix10N5a7js4KbRsD7aonr6rV0B2HOM9o4ywtU8eBMNeX-STgYnfRbMvg_mBsj51l-FFzS5_FwS5YOals080QA9iNT2cN-8l5i23x_LuLMY3IyE/s1600/IMG-20230827-WA0006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAym5A0yZwDzAdvNQVxf2WQAzPDAaiEhBJt51vVpvQ_SugV4BzGrBWKrRI4kmlGC71wSBIarQMGV7qix10N5a7js4KbRsD7aonr6rV0B2HOM9o4ywtU8eBMNeX-STgYnfRbMvg_mBsj51l-FFzS5_FwS5YOals080QA9iNT2cN-8l5i23x_LuLMY3IyE/s320/IMG-20230827-WA0006.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>A parte questa piccola diversione, la strada prosegue diritta, implacabile, ora sull'altiplano. Le salite ci risparmiano, ma il vento contrario imperversa. Quasi non incrociamo paesi, se non gruppi di case, una bodeguita, un benzinaio sparsi... E due statue di biciclette giganti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaachBxNfEAvGaeotxWxJq9-BnoHhIOhQhP7CJUc6ZzH6B-SzN3_sEYsFhCN6d_1mYQUx3Zz-kEK73tzNI54Axd2O3xT-Wc7Q65juT7i3md1aDY45xnKOT_poK6MQGTCzVviSx6pCADnNYSz9lJPep5gF0Ct6Kgwc5qfxTyLl4i35JQuwaJz5ENSP0KEc/s1209/20230827_105718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaachBxNfEAvGaeotxWxJq9-BnoHhIOhQhP7CJUc6ZzH6B-SzN3_sEYsFhCN6d_1mYQUx3Zz-kEK73tzNI54Axd2O3xT-Wc7Q65juT7i3md1aDY45xnKOT_poK6MQGTCzVviSx6pCADnNYSz9lJPep5gF0Ct6Kgwc5qfxTyLl4i35JQuwaJz5ENSP0KEc/s320/20230827_105718.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNW9gGhZ5UIgfBC3WsuDw7CStaR5SExsKnC748OG_b_J_rqjFgWRkzFBVDNqu8siUOWTDet0KK9l7JocEBEbKHNwXLco_s6r31deBXdMLDqnWcuAFNPQWTQYjdJFoi_LNN_2XGdro9yXGim473kkKC9KXTPCM-s0yvnGbNdnWADwSDpHbbn9Nl1yhXI_g/s1209/20230827_120647.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNW9gGhZ5UIgfBC3WsuDw7CStaR5SExsKnC748OG_b_J_rqjFgWRkzFBVDNqu8siUOWTDet0KK9l7JocEBEbKHNwXLco_s6r31deBXdMLDqnWcuAFNPQWTQYjdJFoi_LNN_2XGdro9yXGim473kkKC9KXTPCM-s0yvnGbNdnWADwSDpHbbn9Nl1yhXI_g/s320/20230827_120647.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3wEoWBaKRCL1lHDRvOIqVotrj2PXccFdV-7BUfLX3xBYi8RFm4FaUQirZZMRFpZW7z4zOWsdVsjdkQDd21J1vgQ3m-mEKnLB7zcKFjdBeaIA98Nz82WgZ2w6oMlmKnPX6Ei3xKs9yJHYxKP1m0O50BDJBk1KknuVkS-zLCNILrFLKN68qO8psCuTCPE/s1209/20230827_120655.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3wEoWBaKRCL1lHDRvOIqVotrj2PXccFdV-7BUfLX3xBYi8RFm4FaUQirZZMRFpZW7z4zOWsdVsjdkQDd21J1vgQ3m-mEKnLB7zcKFjdBeaIA98Nz82WgZ2w6oMlmKnPX6Ei3xKs9yJHYxKP1m0O50BDJBk1KknuVkS-zLCNILrFLKN68qO8psCuTCPE/s320/20230827_120655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il resto è cielo, azzurrissimo chiaro, inondato di luce che quasi lo fa sbiadire, cactus, enormi, secolari, imponenti come colonne di tempio, e strada.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOdCD_jEGd6g69iuFWSC-RZEzIo8c0JJtxtQdYF_2-vyLNyBV1SLyilEOl_7vkTP8jfaK2oksX1WL84ipUvxjwP1qILSnTAWbsCrsJgZSjrPUhJjbjRnZ95xaprkHCa_TEkFqOYsFdbqRYDBsk8ZB14QI_w676OnEoNXSp3LJyOXuTX9oc89DKEl0bIls/s1209/20230827_121525.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOdCD_jEGd6g69iuFWSC-RZEzIo8c0JJtxtQdYF_2-vyLNyBV1SLyilEOl_7vkTP8jfaK2oksX1WL84ipUvxjwP1qILSnTAWbsCrsJgZSjrPUhJjbjRnZ95xaprkHCa_TEkFqOYsFdbqRYDBsk8ZB14QI_w676OnEoNXSp3LJyOXuTX9oc89DKEl0bIls/s320/20230827_121525.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpSX2ebQ9F7KSPf97oh8oEQ2ljkylsYPW5TVVlL-A5H98RVQ80Pbx5LrjbKAk0BDFXhUJ6OG_tgq8DSrlDAKEmBfpmPxB-VK27P3MXny1Abxmsbf4bbitGq6HfMjYaj-Qtmpy2yHK4Cu2jvdRLp_ISIrK7_MEjM36C-PY3aDlWh-KcUSxXE_gq7U8JDQ/s1209/20230827_121554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpSX2ebQ9F7KSPf97oh8oEQ2ljkylsYPW5TVVlL-A5H98RVQ80Pbx5LrjbKAk0BDFXhUJ6OG_tgq8DSrlDAKEmBfpmPxB-VK27P3MXny1Abxmsbf4bbitGq6HfMjYaj-Qtmpy2yHK4Cu2jvdRLp_ISIrK7_MEjM36C-PY3aDlWh-KcUSxXE_gq7U8JDQ/s320/20230827_121554.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUJ3zcCDK4xARpgA-MrCfP2_GTmRdKyqY-wFhXtGkDeq9vmT7N4b5ioeHVaFcVld5t4gAKO7wN7s01AaabukrNsjDZsayLg2foE05p8VGOLdzjMkCl94jCF517M_X0WZTUmbbr1iRZwFVe4rlZbVOhHWqGzOTpj3eZ6leUUfIhxiw8cuXIvOR8SA8CJeI/s1209/20230827_121557.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUJ3zcCDK4xARpgA-MrCfP2_GTmRdKyqY-wFhXtGkDeq9vmT7N4b5ioeHVaFcVld5t4gAKO7wN7s01AaabukrNsjDZsayLg2foE05p8VGOLdzjMkCl94jCF517M_X0WZTUmbbr1iRZwFVe4rlZbVOhHWqGzOTpj3eZ6leUUfIhxiw8cuXIvOR8SA8CJeI/s320/20230827_121557.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnqYWNfbTIIrUy8mQ74R6h9m6SCT1KvyGmJ6iS-2Ezchg_20cjOcZ-yx60grpLrwX7XU9pE350ZB_4pk4yxMiCT9yK1UQsROIknzGGya4SerESH7exQ4I4iimg_Wbl3Gg6Oh3PaX1zn3fmcXqZaufOOCr7B7WAV2aLCjpwuLfFbDSNs4Pr0cmDca6lX4/s1209/20230827_124142.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnqYWNfbTIIrUy8mQ74R6h9m6SCT1KvyGmJ6iS-2Ezchg_20cjOcZ-yx60grpLrwX7XU9pE350ZB_4pk4yxMiCT9yK1UQsROIknzGGya4SerESH7exQ4I4iimg_Wbl3Gg6Oh3PaX1zn3fmcXqZaufOOCr7B7WAV2aLCjpwuLfFbDSNs4Pr0cmDca6lX4/s320/20230827_124142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTfjS4t9CuQx1v5yfjlRk-hbRlxLOhiU1x9KseqFcYlywQZGpPkrvy3cGm8hwLY3MsF9tcDc1yGx_Ii28sueDK4AH_AA0hGa0-IAsyyhNun94mec1ChyW3GCmlIceoOyuC06-78zyYgNI5DEfuGYO7awXCzktwQIOshWeSQB7WsDZr4hu1MAKzU1qwY4/s1209/20230827_124147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsTfjS4t9CuQx1v5yfjlRk-hbRlxLOhiU1x9KseqFcYlywQZGpPkrvy3cGm8hwLY3MsF9tcDc1yGx_Ii28sueDK4AH_AA0hGa0-IAsyyhNun94mec1ChyW3GCmlIceoOyuC06-78zyYgNI5DEfuGYO7awXCzktwQIOshWeSQB7WsDZr4hu1MAKzU1qwY4/s320/20230827_124147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo una breve sosta dove commetto l'errore di mangiare troppe noccioline, salatissime e piccantissime, che mi funesteranno con una sete e un'arsura implacabili, arriviamo alla periferia di La Paz. Sono le due del pomeriggio, fa un caldo demoniaco. L'acqua è rovente, la bici scotta, il casco scotta. La strada è spesso rovinata di buche, crepacci e mucchi di sabbia, e il traffico compare, tutto all'improvviso, dopo una mattinata di grande assenza e meraviglioso silenzio. Gli ultimi 15km sono pesanti. Si va piano, nel meriggio torrido, respirando i gas di scarico delle vecchie auto arrugginite, mentre la bici si impenna e scalcia per l'asfalto in pessime condizioni. Per fortuna, una volta in centro, la situazione torna tranquilla.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3EnVpZVfxSs4593ItsUse0udD8NaDwaZdbRS2NlCIjN843MHttjOESjKWFkHUHRcNRzUOEs5jViRBelYretuilftfJ4ooJIgK21xAYtGx4s9rv-w4s5tJJemmKhXn0i3ztExkxZh9bC4v0Ajs0sYOCRXme2OXtHJgG_qYy7u5k9nYbnCniLAx0LYRQiY/s1209/20230827_143701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3EnVpZVfxSs4593ItsUse0udD8NaDwaZdbRS2NlCIjN843MHttjOESjKWFkHUHRcNRzUOEs5jViRBelYretuilftfJ4ooJIgK21xAYtGx4s9rv-w4s5tJJemmKhXn0i3ztExkxZh9bC4v0Ajs0sYOCRXme2OXtHJgG_qYy7u5k9nYbnCniLAx0LYRQiY/s320/20230827_143701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFB8zGVbWhCdgs2zxgiVKB4xrPquWaDwDisT_chEihLJr02DQ55vU5AM2iy15a1KRWQyRfkC9cIZY9jR4Q0c8hSiSNtYM87AeCWp99YPddr3BqqcHoqyArxBa8vNupj-mQ-FFLHFUsuR0xrggmh0phrg4vKbfAboECjHbZOOyEr9oD0mpnh-4DiRX6oQ/s1209/20230827_143718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFB8zGVbWhCdgs2zxgiVKB4xrPquWaDwDisT_chEihLJr02DQ55vU5AM2iy15a1KRWQyRfkC9cIZY9jR4Q0c8hSiSNtYM87AeCWp99YPddr3BqqcHoqyArxBa8vNupj-mQ-FFLHFUsuR0xrggmh0phrg4vKbfAboECjHbZOOyEr9oD0mpnh-4DiRX6oQ/s320/20230827_143718.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18ou52neK6tFN3Tnr7AThWiGnkWhJiriHGo9C5u5Xwpqa_SwQPL8flmwCIWGnrYik5c03WU9ibbFyQ7UrvUcYzP_HMt0MFCOE-ADbhfkAcJpqFXtmIMlRub9MYoMc6S1gRicbWK0Uj2_5D65Duen7u9JOzm12adW7QAffrKs2H8EOXd2KVw8l5DjnwBU/s1209/20230827_144209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18ou52neK6tFN3Tnr7AThWiGnkWhJiriHGo9C5u5Xwpqa_SwQPL8flmwCIWGnrYik5c03WU9ibbFyQ7UrvUcYzP_HMt0MFCOE-ADbhfkAcJpqFXtmIMlRub9MYoMc6S1gRicbWK0Uj2_5D65Duen7u9JOzm12adW7QAffrKs2H8EOXd2KVw8l5DjnwBU/s320/20230827_144209.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Una volta davanti all'indirizzo di quella che sarà la nostra casa nella capitala della Baja California del sud, ci vengono inviati i codici per accedere al cortile e all'appartamento. Tutto è bello come sembra, e, finalmente, l'ansia dell'arrivare-arrivare si placa. La prima cosa che facciamo è sbaraccare le borse, dove tutti i nostri averi sono stati compattati ogni giorno con precisione geometrica. Fuori tutto, tutto in lavatrice, o a prender aria! Le bici possono ora riposare un po' nel balconcino interno.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQrsF5hIJIxIMLMDiQUTTU-fFjTy_XNnzg6nKpcvqanIj0rKbxh2IVJ7yVlHNAgAORHQ0vOHDb4Nb1wljEBYRWNgvavWJIN6DOC7sXDkTFl2r091sK4uayl2okoK-zO6BlT7WJYUywUN-au9dm6OXJ8kfW3RvQ09rOHwqIk70UC0L1jY7pe1jro8OiD4A/s1209/20230827_153516.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQrsF5hIJIxIMLMDiQUTTU-fFjTy_XNnzg6nKpcvqanIj0rKbxh2IVJ7yVlHNAgAORHQ0vOHDb4Nb1wljEBYRWNgvavWJIN6DOC7sXDkTFl2r091sK4uayl2okoK-zO6BlT7WJYUywUN-au9dm6OXJ8kfW3RvQ09rOHwqIk70UC0L1jY7pe1jro8OiD4A/s320/20230827_153516.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZpaoKhdJ9Wbb2DI6D3rcMiba-Td8Wr9SbqzSI0NNLAv5PVmbvgSbDRSxbBMGfVYBUluUdsTJzWW7Yy4lDbPd-ufkg-gDKNh8aL11_U5z0xD-EKro1ioeluGzdWGNhUVXHRdN7RuAifakmjCQ_UjUWXqQX23_uJa4aKd3jNaA83bwTGTWdBR6UhzjNABw/s979/20230827_153614.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZpaoKhdJ9Wbb2DI6D3rcMiba-Td8Wr9SbqzSI0NNLAv5PVmbvgSbDRSxbBMGfVYBUluUdsTJzWW7Yy4lDbPd-ufkg-gDKNh8aL11_U5z0xD-EKro1ioeluGzdWGNhUVXHRdN7RuAifakmjCQ_UjUWXqQX23_uJa4aKd3jNaA83bwTGTWdBR6UhzjNABw/s320/20230827_153614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWpafAEobYn9gvknRY06xJfu7hmo7o0sfQfartN8qW1IuvkPHg1vlvU7pf-iqq3UhrH3EHCF3e4P6ZkguaBWMUrKCSWWaCangw0uh5RvacLbIo5xCFWr5gXsIaBZp1NF6bc2ykZfQp1CPu_PPqmdwpGh5GhTWnsUYho4oX8cJ4FTpUCWlfIfMnB3ZllGE/s979/20230827_153638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWpafAEobYn9gvknRY06xJfu7hmo7o0sfQfartN8qW1IuvkPHg1vlvU7pf-iqq3UhrH3EHCF3e4P6ZkguaBWMUrKCSWWaCangw0uh5RvacLbIo5xCFWr5gXsIaBZp1NF6bc2ykZfQp1CPu_PPqmdwpGh5GhTWnsUYho4oX8cJ4FTpUCWlfIfMnB3ZllGE/s320/20230827_153638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs279I2DZZNNC2SCff9QZrhwFa12z62vNCACqbO12fGoAGLOSU82XHe9wiiJpN_Rq2B7o7aOHhPHeLtdl4FGIDjSFT2zhjoplfk7fQTu_8Ni4XoFpi6zxh8tTRwBDGkrok-XaXefmB_bAqF5yhaUBPTgtHTBawR-jj4FTl6bIfdyP4OxmAHbhhovi9CrE/s1209/20230827_153653.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs279I2DZZNNC2SCff9QZrhwFa12z62vNCACqbO12fGoAGLOSU82XHe9wiiJpN_Rq2B7o7aOHhPHeLtdl4FGIDjSFT2zhjoplfk7fQTu_8Ni4XoFpi6zxh8tTRwBDGkrok-XaXefmB_bAqF5yhaUBPTgtHTBawR-jj4FTl6bIfdyP4OxmAHbhhovi9CrE/s320/20230827_153653.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7pG0N5mhJ1oCV_H6A0RXXA5C0bRpunVEB8jgJP5x8vIFFQmFv5OXzU0dOBEc4F1B4sUChS1BQZY0mmsmWxEwbe_sSXVc-BqD-aKbmdD3OvVzfSOQvuOcjFTE-OJNztn9Q85eT8HW4IQi9mSgIsvSD9pSQ5S8KLNFTHnWbT4-SG4LnsTbqPgbeQgYwDc/s1209/20230827_153706.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7pG0N5mhJ1oCV_H6A0RXXA5C0bRpunVEB8jgJP5x8vIFFQmFv5OXzU0dOBEc4F1B4sUChS1BQZY0mmsmWxEwbe_sSXVc-BqD-aKbmdD3OvVzfSOQvuOcjFTE-OJNztn9Q85eT8HW4IQi9mSgIsvSD9pSQ5S8KLNFTHnWbT4-SG4LnsTbqPgbeQgYwDc/s320/20230827_153706.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Sulla Pina volpina noto l'effetto che il sole messicano ha avuto. Metà si è scolorita quasi del tutto! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstlpthceuoUbVLfUOOQ_GSvBTngD6SCoUa87QI-6PLu_msYfF5GunZPhVlF4ZpJB3u-CARG_0J3uBnf2GY65qoW-lQvToTEFG1pqWz0u5Qbg0RT5uqFA78EwpA6-ck6fqQR8RJJFwOzmfEs9yuq5oQt_CEIdsurC8j_DZ_dl77-APEfoOjsrZeu2CMK4/s1209/20230827_161000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstlpthceuoUbVLfUOOQ_GSvBTngD6SCoUa87QI-6PLu_msYfF5GunZPhVlF4ZpJB3u-CARG_0J3uBnf2GY65qoW-lQvToTEFG1pqWz0u5Qbg0RT5uqFA78EwpA6-ck6fqQR8RJJFwOzmfEs9yuq5oQt_CEIdsurC8j_DZ_dl77-APEfoOjsrZeu2CMK4/s320/20230827_161000.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgam3XSmJaRLQJ7HD96aco1s_6KXbl16w5CmC7kJBGuBTapVrBH5LtFXJIu2k6x6Gum3pvctNYnRet5RYSw79YBKJ_r4_UCsMnFvqr7_hNxY6H6FeDqCBzKjKlZfTPb-ODnKhLW0uEkOLsv4sQLLynaCLDMiyWmaKCb3PxrXEiLwyNJX3-FFjPSiWtq7kU/s1209/20230827_161009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgam3XSmJaRLQJ7HD96aco1s_6KXbl16w5CmC7kJBGuBTapVrBH5LtFXJIu2k6x6Gum3pvctNYnRet5RYSw79YBKJ_r4_UCsMnFvqr7_hNxY6H6FeDqCBzKjKlZfTPb-ODnKhLW0uEkOLsv4sQLLynaCLDMiyWmaKCb3PxrXEiLwyNJX3-FFjPSiWtq7kU/s320/20230827_161009.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFRT0NyX6G1d6JnO0ivQ7web8HoIqFxnLGtTbN5DIgTWGGfRLeSfXpHUntst1G5lC8TYg521XxPv2576eGmu4py1B3YkJ3tUd1vUV4NqOHnIJE5dKruxwQmFijoAu-lgvLHe9ley3ec6VkPtOgxmH1Xtm0rbcLs-Uu6lkFQd8mRcofRPpfWc_TBuevFhU/s1209/20230827_170538.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFRT0NyX6G1d6JnO0ivQ7web8HoIqFxnLGtTbN5DIgTWGGfRLeSfXpHUntst1G5lC8TYg521XxPv2576eGmu4py1B3YkJ3tUd1vUV4NqOHnIJE5dKruxwQmFijoAu-lgvLHe9ley3ec6VkPtOgxmH1Xtm0rbcLs-Uu6lkFQd8mRcofRPpfWc_TBuevFhU/s320/20230827_170538.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigfU-iMP8zLsDxrgJu-TJTYiKZR5Nvt3NSA5jOXyvVOSu7UjLUti7W_9sxOde7ho9x76Fq_wwu4ntKjDBS5dmdckVUgIiLqhN7RntIGLUM1JiVEKhCi_Fd6RNYhViISuOdp-78IKT_LJHjKqFntRH58kerBPx3-fIND1DpWh5bvJeLAomW0DYimHZFz2U/s1209/20230827_170551.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigfU-iMP8zLsDxrgJu-TJTYiKZR5Nvt3NSA5jOXyvVOSu7UjLUti7W_9sxOde7ho9x76Fq_wwu4ntKjDBS5dmdckVUgIiLqhN7RntIGLUM1JiVEKhCi_Fd6RNYhViISuOdp-78IKT_LJHjKqFntRH58kerBPx3-fIND1DpWh5bvJeLAomW0DYimHZFz2U/s320/20230827_170551.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Siccome è presto, dopo la doccia decidiamo di fare una passeggiata sul lungomare, senza meta precisa. Solo per goderci il momento. E ce lo godiamo, a pieni polmoni, ancora storditi dalla consapevolezza, da rielaborare, di aver chiuso anche questa avventura.</div><div>Di La Paz parliamo meglio domani. Per ora bastino le immagini serene del malecon, dove si è appena conclusa una gara di fuoristrada da sabbia, e delle sue palme, delle statue e delle onde che sussurranno appena. Ci sono anche dei mercatini, tra cui passeggiamo mescolati ai turisti. Noi non siamo turisti, però. Siamo viaggiatori.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYXLi0Ik17LN1d4ataaAARDlM_g1w5D2_JlVHCR1PMjpdJfqVB_RqBfwvXxJ51csVo0CLAofFGCJMR2GhMd2J3fNbYnMg9KWB9sOxpbAzEVWNtUsvpBSwH_lcJw4pyxNkeXt1yBaMqonNV4qP4e5nI9bpPxUuvKTg34cklz8gG0HG0XJf_aHqWDOtPAU/s1209/20230827_171241.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYXLi0Ik17LN1d4ataaAARDlM_g1w5D2_JlVHCR1PMjpdJfqVB_RqBfwvXxJ51csVo0CLAofFGCJMR2GhMd2J3fNbYnMg9KWB9sOxpbAzEVWNtUsvpBSwH_lcJw4pyxNkeXt1yBaMqonNV4qP4e5nI9bpPxUuvKTg34cklz8gG0HG0XJf_aHqWDOtPAU/s320/20230827_171241.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikaKMfOD3TwmjMyYHgc8dyj8eOl1JZP3J7tBO5ZqZNEjNvpveGYlJfdXIvw0BensUJum-yV731R4B-h9zSu_Xmi1TJIBtn8pcZ6D-uVHHbuBE9RwWPB6noWbc1kKfQ9LqWJo25KSMkwiXUgSTEGXNTn_h9bCrKk6-zOrELDvqTmylFuc_HsXKC6NJbeSs/s1209/20230827_171915.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-d9sAZdEs90oCT74Zb1l2IBPW9IeLPFwicYqCZaUh4cgrOFj0-I7ke9AVE90aJsKEnyS2ZqKN8866TSmChxG8JOWRrHPiCNMDxzD9AROMwK9GwxBRh0mbEezHspwi1LrvT9-1tEkwkK_XKr7Ahho1wQyR1FgwBT26NrsfKejIsZi_Tg-G_W3qQHyon0/s320/20230827_175235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlhTpYboZ6SvRteJ2fEmBvAOTsSSSt9d-0hA6Su0O-Neus81fyhhWSSRqoMdz4iLcQgiWQJNUbc8SSxXhXDjSQivBoQoTvcw5S1bvilg7ATgLgb9-falFr1du1BWPIwNEed7zq3UVJ23Q_Mz5oZsMXOKFJvurTMbkCY4fhxJwZ4pSwp_ucOavv0s0Auw/s1209/20230827_175345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJlhTpYboZ6SvRteJ2fEmBvAOTsSSSt9d-0hA6Su0O-Neus81fyhhWSSRqoMdz4iLcQgiWQJNUbc8SSxXhXDjSQivBoQoTvcw5S1bvilg7ATgLgb9-falFr1du1BWPIwNEed7zq3UVJ23Q_Mz5oZsMXOKFJvurTMbkCY4fhxJwZ4pSwp_ucOavv0s0Auw/s320/20230827_175345.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0l677Y3Ydhw1DUcX43E0xpVr5oggBn07d3oum-nTGTipvHjNF94MgdkZ8WGq6Iw1vFR9fCR5pX-wUjfziKH7jYcjFIBEwIfb1-hJ3JULw4b2yR0uWy6FqPljPBWGEwh4fUGboo1gSN8x40Z2qjc3PclQsrkBH2YPZsSTs0S9YbbtRCVltZdYJignSB-Y/s1209/20230827_175406.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0l677Y3Ydhw1DUcX43E0xpVr5oggBn07d3oum-nTGTipvHjNF94MgdkZ8WGq6Iw1vFR9fCR5pX-wUjfziKH7jYcjFIBEwIfb1-hJ3JULw4b2yR0uWy6FqPljPBWGEwh4fUGboo1gSN8x40Z2qjc3PclQsrkBH2YPZsSTs0S9YbbtRCVltZdYJignSB-Y/s320/20230827_175406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando ormai il sole sta tramontando, siccome Gigi è gonfio di ansie e ansiette riguardo al recuperare il materiale per imballare tutto, decidiamo di andare in periferia, nella zona dei centri commerciali, alla ricerca di scatoloni per le borse, nastro adesivo e pluriball per le bici. Ci sono Home Depot e Walmart, qui o là dovremmo trovare tutto. Qui a La Paz i mezzi pubblici sono un po' meno immediati da capire e usare, quindi usiamo un'app tipo Uber, che si chiama Didi e ci consente di avere un passaggio immediato da dove ci troviamo alla porta del centro commerciale, per un prezzo paragonabile a quello dei mezzi pubblici (3 euro da dividere in due). All'Home Depot troviamo pluriball e nastro adesivo, ma non le scatole. Quindi andiamo da Walmart e ci facciamo dare quelle della frutta destinate al macero, risparmiando anche qualche soldino. Già che ci siamo, facciamo spesa per la cena e rientriamo in appartamento sempre scortati da un autista Didi. Scarichiamo tutto e vinciamo anche il gatto strabico, grasso e coccolone della vicina.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhEckBSgzMYAQPBed0-Bi_SDNdoOWCY-Qs-7yFs9eWRFX_59bSxwK5wMfqu0w81L69whPbwLp9-8Z4rGbIE1k9IDkyjZlcV5YZasZj5NyO20T9x0n4nD5_LqOH3mqZcSVHK9IcYhyy2asBJHJ6sy_UZ9hnXoIIwmTEZUJZtcIz5MO10rqk5pIY0e4xD0/s1209/20230827_202623.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhEckBSgzMYAQPBed0-Bi_SDNdoOWCY-Qs-7yFs9eWRFX_59bSxwK5wMfqu0w81L69whPbwLp9-8Z4rGbIE1k9IDkyjZlcV5YZasZj5NyO20T9x0n4nD5_LqOH3mqZcSVHK9IcYhyy2asBJHJ6sy_UZ9hnXoIIwmTEZUJZtcIz5MO10rqk5pIY0e4xD0/s320/20230827_202623.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Dopo cena, inizia la giostra delle lavatrici, e intanto trovo il trasporto per raggiungere l'aeroporto, che dista 10km da qui. Serve un van, con gli scatoloni che dobbiamo portarci dietro. Chatto su whatsapp con un autista, ci accordiamo su tutto, e via, anche questa è fatta! Domattina andremo dal ciclista con cui si è sentito Gigi a ritirare gli scatoli per le bici. Poi un bagnetto nelle spiagge belle, lontane dal porto, e alle 14 ho appuntamento dal tatuatore. Quest'anno scegliere i soggetti è stata un'impresa, ci ho impiegato due mesi! Il Messico è arte pura, in mille forme e colori.<div> </div><div><br /></div><div>28/8</div><div>La Paz</div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi è una giornata di commissioni e appuntamenti. Dopo una ricca colazione nella nostra bella casetta azzurra, usciamo nel caldo già torrido che ci fa infradiciare di sudore i vestiti nel giro di un minuto. Dobbiamo recuperare gli scatoloni per imballare le bici, e il luogo migliore è il negozio di un ciclista. Gigi ne ha contattati alcuni e due, a circa un kilometro da casa in direzioni diverse, hanno risposto positivamente. Andiamo al primo, ma è chiuso. Andiamo dal secondo ed è aperto e ha le scatole, ma ce le fa pagare 100 pesos (5 euro circa). Che volpone! Il bello è che noi, ignari, pensiamo che ce le regali, come accade quasi sempre (tranne a New York, dove le abbiamo pagate 50 dollari e un paio di diti medi), quindi usciamo pacifici, per poi essere inseguiti e richiamati alla cassa. Siamo troppo vicini agli USA, c'è una cattiva influenza!</div><div>In ogni caso facciamo l'usuale pellegrinaggio carichi come i muli, sotto allo sguardo incuriosito dei passanti, e portiamo il bottino in appartamento. In ciò, passiamo davanti a una chiesa ancora in costruzione, mai finita, ma già aperta e consacrata, con i fedeli in preghiera sulle panche.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhANbUif6DkdGbZ7rWiLodK8I_uZuVW-vO1To64E0HrxIbUXql5zIIcuzxFhmT2IzWhsFHJy566q2e47xLbhxViVM8EPqCWVGf5WxVgVfNsEn3W0lZ_SI634Ci5L-ZMHmJmmXUkC6u-ZhZKXsc_88PxZ-lPMrcmc9vU1jRpPXHoT1LxhTpfrkMm4QsQP1Y/s1209/20230828_092003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhANbUif6DkdGbZ7rWiLodK8I_uZuVW-vO1To64E0HrxIbUXql5zIIcuzxFhmT2IzWhsFHJy566q2e47xLbhxViVM8EPqCWVGf5WxVgVfNsEn3W0lZ_SI634Ci5L-ZMHmJmmXUkC6u-ZhZKXsc_88PxZ-lPMrcmc9vU1jRpPXHoT1LxhTpfrkMm4QsQP1Y/s320/20230828_092003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TvUGkgkAPOCXfB8DJslF9hfnBIf25JNBi5M2v_6Qk-1fOD4OGy9-WUDYRP9QRCVbx6LaOKAbDW96CqjNeYcCP_xfhx4kpWnrPkOSssp5BFrNXmgkQ3oA2tXt_0ZC9EIgJ5TXLJgx21esDlZ1ocHvOzkNlKo1yDUcHPqy429T2n3K2fc7RyfU-jJYACY/s979/20230828_092451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TvUGkgkAPOCXfB8DJslF9hfnBIf25JNBi5M2v_6Qk-1fOD4OGy9-WUDYRP9QRCVbx6LaOKAbDW96CqjNeYcCP_xfhx4kpWnrPkOSssp5BFrNXmgkQ3oA2tXt_0ZC9EIgJ5TXLJgx21esDlZ1ocHvOzkNlKo1yDUcHPqy429T2n3K2fc7RyfU-jJYACY/s320/20230828_092451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOA0COlk-EdaIuqSt2N7Vfe9_l0-2NByXEvK1RANJYByvm85j2XzMZsjbNkwGFDyXIl_yYykl9V2PwMn1itRTJxuzmR6YFWsmLMImvIxeFrUKprQAMyaY5xuFE0sfJgf64tt3uRWHL7p2INPY1kQdmmiOxOhAO4eA2RfSltJF5rk6GiSx3G-hA_AqtxUg/s1209/20230828_095016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOA0COlk-EdaIuqSt2N7Vfe9_l0-2NByXEvK1RANJYByvm85j2XzMZsjbNkwGFDyXIl_yYykl9V2PwMn1itRTJxuzmR6YFWsmLMImvIxeFrUKprQAMyaY5xuFE0sfJgf64tt3uRWHL7p2INPY1kQdmmiOxOhAO4eA2RfSltJF5rk6GiSx3G-hA_AqtxUg/s320/20230828_095016.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi ci spostiamo in una spiaggia un po' fuori dal centro, in modo da allontanaci dalle acque non pulitissime del porto e degli imbarcaderi. Dopo una camminata che ci frigge ciò che resta del cervellino, raggiungiamo una bella caletta di sabbia e ghiaina di conchiglie, deserta e tutta per noi. Solo quando stiamo per andarcene scopriamo che sotto ad una delle barche rovesciate vive una ragazza senzatetto, che, mentre leviamo le tende, sbuca fuori ed entra in acqua a lavarsi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RDaP1vinEhID-JA3DLjNq-03J8SDlGRvwoG9GmB3Xr8AcH8Nhr0ZDBzQMPJqKhHCVwH0M3Tf4UnqjILN_6qN43UHTmBa8VF_lVD-L6XHhylSZh6DBrJkUOA4u56BQuKi5TgFO8cwd29dYOhIW-WtCIMyG00lh78O8xqWk7PWDmsO9BARxOFLV4yPOcU/s1209/20230828_111849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RDaP1vinEhID-JA3DLjNq-03J8SDlGRvwoG9GmB3Xr8AcH8Nhr0ZDBzQMPJqKhHCVwH0M3Tf4UnqjILN_6qN43UHTmBa8VF_lVD-L6XHhylSZh6DBrJkUOA4u56BQuKi5TgFO8cwd29dYOhIW-WtCIMyG00lh78O8xqWk7PWDmsO9BARxOFLV4yPOcU/s320/20230828_111849.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeTvVOAlFm_bLs9mvi2oY2y7B0I5eu9Huyl1r4-4iRw_O8WUfJ5afShY8iZuS2VO9uwuGF04TmDP6WFmHdbIU175MFMZC98Txt7kQBQ-_pynGBFzPc0NbAm1_Ki_4nLCeD5D2CM234jG94h34k8ricMi7ybUxNnyjgYLWf0yuy81zqteGjGhKteUf5eU/s1209/20230828_114526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeTvVOAlFm_bLs9mvi2oY2y7B0I5eu9Huyl1r4-4iRw_O8WUfJ5afShY8iZuS2VO9uwuGF04TmDP6WFmHdbIU175MFMZC98Txt7kQBQ-_pynGBFzPc0NbAm1_Ki_4nLCeD5D2CM234jG94h34k8ricMi7ybUxNnyjgYLWf0yuy81zqteGjGhKteUf5eU/s320/20230828_114526.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SPlAho0iroQxwssuDS8MpIqSI2nQYpScj44ZDhB_9tfwqLr1mZO55WazivQaE3ombRSZnFsaijXxi6O5NA1qyTsbo03j92Yo9hFQiBbFW4xntUe6alKiAK89f5WMlp08zwm-iFj2ZkUCYSwwOzzMlPnJyNVrdsaxSZq_2oyX-7uLv4v-LxPcTbenu9w/s1158/20230828_114535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="869" data-original-width="1158" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SPlAho0iroQxwssuDS8MpIqSI2nQYpScj44ZDhB_9tfwqLr1mZO55WazivQaE3ombRSZnFsaijXxi6O5NA1qyTsbo03j92Yo9hFQiBbFW4xntUe6alKiAK89f5WMlp08zwm-iFj2ZkUCYSwwOzzMlPnJyNVrdsaxSZq_2oyX-7uLv4v-LxPcTbenu9w/s320/20230828_114535.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOdP4Uw7xvoBf7o6bEjRsXwnQ9Vkc-sgmm45rowezMSZ81v3eJEUFFP9NgPObAQS6fRtfhyvoWFJT0bR-zzrTl5q9xQ6qTtKx1MQXmrVZfCPHIz6d1cukTqaw7ZD5ZBL1OFbSdlGUvqfyXGIUNSU2pDtRF-ZaL2IzlgaQx4z3a1ZYTNAAfOrb-Uzrg-PU/s1209/20230828_114538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOdP4Uw7xvoBf7o6bEjRsXwnQ9Vkc-sgmm45rowezMSZ81v3eJEUFFP9NgPObAQS6fRtfhyvoWFJT0bR-zzrTl5q9xQ6qTtKx1MQXmrVZfCPHIz6d1cukTqaw7ZD5ZBL1OFbSdlGUvqfyXGIUNSU2pDtRF-ZaL2IzlgaQx4z3a1ZYTNAAfOrb-Uzrg-PU/s320/20230828_114538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOcd8BwlwBwyGg4sAwS_ykbJAIbjRAYg9azrqMeQxWUMsG9QWGW01VxxbuxFPXks1DTx3tGGfHsZWgOu06molxAChAdUqAzikw8FXIy8BhBDPAlunVLBwsM36OVlsDZMxmoaKqu3FmMpA8NhUsqstJqrVFbS-3AuFCbw9tqx5DUFh17KopRVlNXXFHCMM/s1209/20230828_114600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOcd8BwlwBwyGg4sAwS_ykbJAIbjRAYg9azrqMeQxWUMsG9QWGW01VxxbuxFPXks1DTx3tGGfHsZWgOu06molxAChAdUqAzikw8FXIy8BhBDPAlunVLBwsM36OVlsDZMxmoaKqu3FmMpA8NhUsqstJqrVFbS-3AuFCbw9tqx5DUFh17KopRVlNXXFHCMM/s320/20230828_114600.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Rientriamo in casa giusto in tempo per una doccia veloce: alle 2 mi aspetta il tatuatore per i sigilli di rito. Ogni viaggio si chiude così, con il timbro indelebile, e questa volta non può essere diversamente. Oltretutto siamo in una terra dove il tatuaggio, oltre a esistere da millenni come forma di arte, è diffuso e ha le sue scuole, i suoi stili, tradizionali e non. Insomma, il Messico è cultura, e in questa c'è anche l'inchiostro sottopelle. Qui, e non chiedetemi perchè, usa che i tatuatori siano anche barbieri e spesso barmen/birrai. E' tutto un unicum. Quindi lo studio è dietro alle poltrone dove molti si stanno facendo sistemare barba e capelli, e accanto al bancone con le birre in fresco. Il tempo si ferma tra attese, disegno, consultazioni con i due artisti che mettono mano ai miei lavori e realizzazione vera e propria. Passano circa 4 ore, ma il risultato è incredibile. Ho scelto, dopo grandi ricerche durate due mesi e indecisioni infinite, due disegni. Il primo è un cuore che contiene il deserto/mare, un cactus, una testa di pietra di quetzalcoatl e uno scheletro; intorno la citazione della Kahlo: "Viva la vida". Il secondo è un giaguaro azteco che sta per mangiarsi un cuore, con un ollin sullo sfondo, che è il simbolo che sta al centro della Pietra del sole e rappresenta il movimento, il trascorrere del tempo, la circolarità e la dualità delle stagioni. Intorno una citazione di Octavio Paz, tratta dalla sua "Pietra di sole": amar es combatir. Ho aggiunto: sin sacrificio. In riferimento al cuore mangiato dal giaguaro, ovviamente!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTomguupx6pmDDdkq4USn1bgWa3JxcZqZ04SX0NRCt20ZfMGMuHq9yB_1s4MZsBAV5tDOjmGRyhe9JaI7MlzExDT3JnwDO7DMMxxPV022MNmOY-ZEQr7KIsb5_Dvp34xPJj_Z3F1r8fvCOew3uKCV3B5dxADRMugFwkxbYLfO_7J5opGrvqAiKnU7wqc/s1209/20230828_135242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTomguupx6pmDDdkq4USn1bgWa3JxcZqZ04SX0NRCt20ZfMGMuHq9yB_1s4MZsBAV5tDOjmGRyhe9JaI7MlzExDT3JnwDO7DMMxxPV022MNmOY-ZEQr7KIsb5_Dvp34xPJj_Z3F1r8fvCOew3uKCV3B5dxADRMugFwkxbYLfO_7J5opGrvqAiKnU7wqc/s320/20230828_135242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheu7uKAQrOmSKh7rEeZ1280mY31oJdgn2LvDFJDX7Hc2lmQCyWhYGukQT0qZsPTEG2woiADx4Oh2t2CoUy6Bhamr7LnONNhk0Nwy7iqso_eDa2YGrdz0vnkMb2MT2ngLtYC4iphWaOnLgk_2yap_E8L_rHzoYGATwR1sduZCCDRY7FpJgtmtGF_jerYwU/s1209/20230828_135246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheu7uKAQrOmSKh7rEeZ1280mY31oJdgn2LvDFJDX7Hc2lmQCyWhYGukQT0qZsPTEG2woiADx4Oh2t2CoUy6Bhamr7LnONNhk0Nwy7iqso_eDa2YGrdz0vnkMb2MT2ngLtYC4iphWaOnLgk_2yap_E8L_rHzoYGATwR1sduZCCDRY7FpJgtmtGF_jerYwU/s320/20230828_135246.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH20eRMLdT_HFR91RYqZP7NwoO8dN3GjeS2f7PRESauf6-yhLMEdpT4YUqTDIVDMfIlrPYFe1RCTPMl6AwoWfg9wRas6IoreAlss_PME5ymH0pgMmi5lbRSMSnaIgU_w0EHGgNQxsOE3YDtEdiLNuCiI6ln_dPNSwQvyuBs0eH1SOnTBZNaPuqK17r2Vo/s1209/20230828_140735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH20eRMLdT_HFR91RYqZP7NwoO8dN3GjeS2f7PRESauf6-yhLMEdpT4YUqTDIVDMfIlrPYFe1RCTPMl6AwoWfg9wRas6IoreAlss_PME5ymH0pgMmi5lbRSMSnaIgU_w0EHGgNQxsOE3YDtEdiLNuCiI6ln_dPNSwQvyuBs0eH1SOnTBZNaPuqK17r2Vo/s320/20230828_140735.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBIq2YP6OoU-8FIV1VqjIjrRGwgGrw2vGE6udXj_plu2QO1_5H6Un8Y2Cx1RjM8KDKfWkKKXE9JZD_x3AcHOs3YATyg0x08Dm828JeIXGtVkYeXT8rfLsvCzAkXiDgzbHw2A9fggfGy58hCRchhKGZEZkRhhNsqhsI3aa7zXnU6mF1NPR1fMkkH30hhhQ/s1209/20230828_161524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBIq2YP6OoU-8FIV1VqjIjrRGwgGrw2vGE6udXj_plu2QO1_5H6Un8Y2Cx1RjM8KDKfWkKKXE9JZD_x3AcHOs3YATyg0x08Dm828JeIXGtVkYeXT8rfLsvCzAkXiDgzbHw2A9fggfGy58hCRchhKGZEZkRhhNsqhsI3aa7zXnU6mF1NPR1fMkkH30hhhQ/s320/20230828_161524.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHfHxHfhUsLUlhOcTuifgztXAfW-Xl7WkXBrQZ5dgZw9YE8utagNREPCcTzjzLpw77r97MKfWxVqhZibYZh88ut6nnfi5gVHQ23HDBrUjIisBLVXxUNAOXYKFqWP1jGxltkANQz90VHBbNV24ETJhykuy1KOUK69S3WLhlu2aiKEdM8cPRsljOajPymCk/s989/20230828_170951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHfHxHfhUsLUlhOcTuifgztXAfW-Xl7WkXBrQZ5dgZw9YE8utagNREPCcTzjzLpw77r97MKfWxVqhZibYZh88ut6nnfi5gVHQ23HDBrUjIisBLVXxUNAOXYKFqWP1jGxltkANQz90VHBbNV24ETJhykuy1KOUK69S3WLhlu2aiKEdM8cPRsljOajPymCk/s320/20230828_170951.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Finita la seduta, che si è svolta tutta a una temperatura di 15 gradi, con i condizionatori sparati a manetta, mi sembra di esser scesa nell'averno, per il caldo feroce, la luce accecante, i doloretti da aghi sottopelle. Ma poi raggiungo il lungomare, dove ho dato appuntamento a Gigi (che è rimasto in casa a preparare i suoi bagagli) e ritrovo la pace dei sensi, davanti a un tramonto che scioglie ogni nodo. Non manchiamo, già che siamo in zona, di fare una passeggiata in centro, un poco all'interno rispetto al lungomare, per vedere la piazza principale e la cattedrale. L'edificio risale alla seconda metà dell'Ottocento, e sorge dove si trovava la prima missione fondata qui dai gesuiti 150 anni prima, e poi abbandonata e caduta in rovina. E' dedicata a Nostra Signora della Pace, nemmeno a dirlo!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIP8VNNtwBEYNOwNo9h30aUL4EkaHD-KYy-dEh0i63DEQSX5ffz8hjsXjDsaXl_L25U3JF3fyA6PfXsZPxbIM0hJkpvrXXhBMQqHMtHVed9EiOWn4ZbRfKXuNfpD-zDY0tk5Ns1SiUoy4ub0rc8rg8hSB56LLigEflOMpSnlp6k9n4xYULjkPxQo-aFbE/s1209/20230828_172946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIP8VNNtwBEYNOwNo9h30aUL4EkaHD-KYy-dEh0i63DEQSX5ffz8hjsXjDsaXl_L25U3JF3fyA6PfXsZPxbIM0hJkpvrXXhBMQqHMtHVed9EiOWn4ZbRfKXuNfpD-zDY0tk5Ns1SiUoy4ub0rc8rg8hSB56LLigEflOMpSnlp6k9n4xYULjkPxQo-aFbE/s320/20230828_172946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSaYAl7tGQ17XYcYVFCA20rFkRblZkIrChdteSKJGfBlQyCqKwK5Nc34ApNjLS3Oa6n7fbvUfxr-dqqC28G3QfKtlFOlbz9jcnT4naUubeUaBMApumCXfW9SJ59WOjL_QZD8Qc81RdBFLOgQ0Ttf08XZjWPnViG3vpy8XuR9xu4xnYv0TuWtcbX4itKPM/s1209/20230828_174216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSaYAl7tGQ17XYcYVFCA20rFkRblZkIrChdteSKJGfBlQyCqKwK5Nc34ApNjLS3Oa6n7fbvUfxr-dqqC28G3QfKtlFOlbz9jcnT4naUubeUaBMApumCXfW9SJ59WOjL_QZD8Qc81RdBFLOgQ0Ttf08XZjWPnViG3vpy8XuR9xu4xnYv0TuWtcbX4itKPM/s320/20230828_174216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLI5H1hmd6B7jpltcmmPMYnpTJBW18FkHYjTN83tKFK-PiCuVcBKqcM4L93usupBvcPACfIzZqQgoo9leA3ZyrF3tveeeobct6V0MOJmhOXwIwm1Lpd8oSe5-PiTYByaOJ7FArf6VqQKJM3EQxcKpap3b8Y4p4S5WSN5lvRt5qWIksrP7hBYrNMs3VTao/s1209/20230828_174758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLI5H1hmd6B7jpltcmmPMYnpTJBW18FkHYjTN83tKFK-PiCuVcBKqcM4L93usupBvcPACfIzZqQgoo9leA3ZyrF3tveeeobct6V0MOJmhOXwIwm1Lpd8oSe5-PiTYByaOJ7FArf6VqQKJM3EQxcKpap3b8Y4p4S5WSN5lvRt5qWIksrP7hBYrNMs3VTao/s320/20230828_174758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7Mv3TduXgtTfUzG0xemQ-PqhoEAOB0bBFd_JTQxHC3OypcG-qReRKEE5ttadOFjIyQuTJq_I1tHKxmUxv9m0thIYpf77ajcppXm53uiayhSuerEp1HD3CTdo6yUgP6c-QDO4pOwJDEi_5xFN3rKpz1xjEBLmd52gvYOoy57H--fZOldyqMLCnTOrk5U/s1209/20230828_180905.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7Mv3TduXgtTfUzG0xemQ-PqhoEAOB0bBFd_JTQxHC3OypcG-qReRKEE5ttadOFjIyQuTJq_I1tHKxmUxv9m0thIYpf77ajcppXm53uiayhSuerEp1HD3CTdo6yUgP6c-QDO4pOwJDEi_5xFN3rKpz1xjEBLmd52gvYOoy57H--fZOldyqMLCnTOrk5U/s320/20230828_180905.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Pl-z7lTP3AH3Ih-hIItQrgTxHC7o8v5eZqAyVnFbevGWAOhR--a7HHdEx68cBmXIWw2Oyievv-lgBVcofjcAclwL3Ty-VNkADCC1eekWm4STU9BqqMokzhe7Di3wxi846_6hBBNVZ_hxaTtPQwTA_6ZOh7fbI0BC8tPBDEAbqkNeIFTQdbzoq3IciUg/s1209/20230828_181028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Pl-z7lTP3AH3Ih-hIItQrgTxHC7o8v5eZqAyVnFbevGWAOhR--a7HHdEx68cBmXIWw2Oyievv-lgBVcofjcAclwL3Ty-VNkADCC1eekWm4STU9BqqMokzhe7Di3wxi846_6hBBNVZ_hxaTtPQwTA_6ZOh7fbI0BC8tPBDEAbqkNeIFTQdbzoq3IciUg/s320/20230828_181028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>La sera, dopo cena, mi porto un po' in pari con l'imballaggio bagagli, visto che Gigi ha già quasi finito. Smonto la bici, la impacchetto per bene con pluriball e cartone, e la infilo nella scatola, dove ci sta a pennello, sembra la sua custodia! Poi riempio la scatola di frutta (mele) recuperata da Walmart (ma che geni del riciclo e del risparmio siamo?!) e riesco a farci stare tutto il contenuto delle 4 borse, e le borse stesse, tranne una con il poco di bagaglio a mano che porterò meco nelle diecimila ore di voli e viaggi. Ci sta tutto, compresa la mega guida Lonely Planet che ho avuto il piacere di trascinarmi dietro sui 31.000m di dislivello in salita, per oltre 4000km. E non è nemmeno l'unico libro che ho portato. Però l'ho usata tantissimo, alla consunzione.<div>Soddisfatta dell'accrocco, vado a dormire serena, con l'idea di sigillare tutto con nastro adesivo in orari più consoni al rumore che questa operazione del demonio comporta.<br /><div><br /><div>29/8</div></div><div>La Paz</div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi è l'ultimo giorno interamente in terra messicana. Domattina abbiamo il primo volo che ci porta a Città del Messico, dove faremo un lungo scalo di quasi 9 ore. Da lì ripartiremo alla volta di Londra. Altro scalo. Infine arriveremo a Milano, la sera del 31, dopo due giorni tra aerei, aeroporti e fusi orari che ci mangeranno 9 ore in un sol boccone. E poi via, direttamente a scuola per il collegio docenti del 1 settembre. Per protesta, potrei andare a far l'eremita su uno scoglio con i pellicani.</div><div><br /></div><div>Intanto ripesco da una taschina remota le chiavi di casa. A proposito di simboli.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtAFxQgoE9TU-LllFKy0hN8K_Aepha09Y-Xfqg-vlgUFfJfbRT7vbvXYBTtN67sx5_YU1S1cNu4WMzWv0ZA8ZIUguzyclpoQQYjC_Qf_nUhRRHtRBiYxaSpd_CcnHakaVLTx9jd_YYpMoMiMmAGGkQHmWAOVZwTlo-yOrww4XHbjtW1ifnFNT8XgrjDqA/s1209/20230829_085846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtAFxQgoE9TU-LllFKy0hN8K_Aepha09Y-Xfqg-vlgUFfJfbRT7vbvXYBTtN67sx5_YU1S1cNu4WMzWv0ZA8ZIUguzyclpoQQYjC_Qf_nUhRRHtRBiYxaSpd_CcnHakaVLTx9jd_YYpMoMiMmAGGkQHmWAOVZwTlo-yOrww4XHbjtW1ifnFNT8XgrjDqA/s320/20230829_085846.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo colazione ci dedichiamo alla chiusura degli scatoli. Riesco a cacciar dentro anche Pacho l'orsone peluche, che ha fatto un giro in lavatrice e ora è perfetto come imballaggio. Ormai sono una professionista assoluta della preparazione bici e borse per i voli, potrei farlo di mestiere! Speriamo che anche gli addetti di terra di Aeromexico siano un po' più svegli di quelli di AirEuropa, e che facciano arrivare tutto a destinazione senza la settimana di ritardo e i molti microinfarti subiti a giugno, quando siamo atterrati a Cancun.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXlIIRTVKJ5ytGgw9G6hXQD0ldHcPIav6_BkK8z42dJ2xxpV-L3L3S_O9SJaIm1YDk9OPvG41PiiNRZ7vsB7oOFUb84vwgy8LdWlTEMqAqqksdvpzedF1uExrpRX7kScdqrud1ZmYkKbo9zYDdxsTMOSlMLnI6hxenZ6guK3piN7cv-R6hBqPp9gdzjA/s1209/20230829_091832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXlIIRTVKJ5ytGgw9G6hXQD0ldHcPIav6_BkK8z42dJ2xxpV-L3L3S_O9SJaIm1YDk9OPvG41PiiNRZ7vsB7oOFUb84vwgy8LdWlTEMqAqqksdvpzedF1uExrpRX7kScdqrud1ZmYkKbo9zYDdxsTMOSlMLnI6hxenZ6guK3piN7cv-R6hBqPp9gdzjA/s320/20230829_091832.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYCPQOPFv1rxGYYAm_YErQROZyErnz2nvYdDDaiqDw67-U4ZSAV_arz-aodqm7hvzym_jywTZQ4KeRzw38v80OxzpbHCJKcDpBl9HQiIGnlcDFkyiIKgyNuYgKvDYBKwPK3EF3kohqWU_jm2_9FAFAwcqpy2dXENF_gL5XSb0UVffvCzeL7H02Q1GfU0/s1209/20230829_091839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYCPQOPFv1rxGYYAm_YErQROZyErnz2nvYdDDaiqDw67-U4ZSAV_arz-aodqm7hvzym_jywTZQ4KeRzw38v80OxzpbHCJKcDpBl9HQiIGnlcDFkyiIKgyNuYgKvDYBKwPK3EF3kohqWU_jm2_9FAFAwcqpy2dXENF_gL5XSb0UVffvCzeL7H02Q1GfU0/s320/20230829_091839.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHqYHt7C-cZzFJJrsV-oqMHBpglJmbx2vIUGXAClj5FD9fZ9FvEPdEP4TliUgqpq5kjPW3i-enVfFeosupkyUmLTZT8TU_LNhp3u9hsmdjvVUko8pqrMCnjIC7V8c9xQxtPpumZWcTbT4ypZGcfA0LRN67SmPggjsgtOZe-KBcqptu9B9Q_A7ULVNdO0/s1209/20230829_095626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXHqYHt7C-cZzFJJrsV-oqMHBpglJmbx2vIUGXAClj5FD9fZ9FvEPdEP4TliUgqpq5kjPW3i-enVfFeosupkyUmLTZT8TU_LNhp3u9hsmdjvVUko8pqrMCnjIC7V8c9xQxtPpumZWcTbT4ypZGcfA0LRN67SmPggjsgtOZe-KBcqptu9B9Q_A7ULVNdO0/s320/20230829_095626.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando abbiamo finito gran parte del lavoro, decidiamo di andare a visitare un paio di musei in centro. La Paz non è una città che i turisti visitano per la sua offerta culturale, ma, comunque, non manca di alcune chicche che meritano un passaggio. Anche perchè, con i tatuaggi freschi, a me son vietati bagni e sole diretto (e a Gigi non interessano a prescindere, anzi, più si sta lontani dall'acqua e dalla spiaggia, più è contento). Uscendo incontriamo Bob, che ogni volta che resta da solo per trenta secondi inizia a miagolare forte in cerca di umani, coccole, cibo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjOQv0O3BmL5JHBVFaRqOK8eqq0li8vP5Dgeo0j_WXfypUG1cxutLY7yzCaGtUAYDI42pGdS1Iq4gciyUTzyJrWyn1NUR_V5i7_FwktkNIEtIs8CIpyXR_8YcM76g1IZASQebWhWKbIYxHCKRV7i0PNumUTLANXlvZ8RJfPjvc3t4iHwQ946br8L-08ZE/s979/20230829_105047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjOQv0O3BmL5JHBVFaRqOK8eqq0li8vP5Dgeo0j_WXfypUG1cxutLY7yzCaGtUAYDI42pGdS1Iq4gciyUTzyJrWyn1NUR_V5i7_FwktkNIEtIs8CIpyXR_8YcM76g1IZASQebWhWKbIYxHCKRV7i0PNumUTLANXlvZ8RJfPjvc3t4iHwQ946br8L-08ZE/s320/20230829_105047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp98lirOC8nIB1ZsxjIPxUVd31zc-n0wIC4oO1OA38gareDuRjkM9Z58hogNRdeXx5N1CvOrwjC6elLkUquEa_RB3V2hZEmQfQnJ_QS-QhB57MQPaLhQCUVeAlC739fl79iDGh2KYnWit_N_Hxxg7mcPGyQXo1fhDxI02abJ3Ejn_ABSL1bVjaBpuR7zY/s1209/20230829_105108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp98lirOC8nIB1ZsxjIPxUVd31zc-n0wIC4oO1OA38gareDuRjkM9Z58hogNRdeXx5N1CvOrwjC6elLkUquEa_RB3V2hZEmQfQnJ_QS-QhB57MQPaLhQCUVeAlC739fl79iDGh2KYnWit_N_Hxxg7mcPGyQXo1fhDxI02abJ3Ejn_ABSL1bVjaBpuR7zY/s320/20230829_105108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci portiamo quindi verso il Museo Regionale, sempre passando per il malecon e i suoi pellicolli, pelliquelli, pelliquanti. Siccome abbiamo parecchio contante in pesos da spendere prima di tornare in Europa, Gigi decide di concedersi una seconda-seconda colazione, in un baretto che fa frappè e altre delizie con caffè, cioccolata e latte.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2bDSO3DbBqBEIaIyLaEnGkE1_kvCutaLYluqe8Q92C4jNCdNtAEpe8IRi-pAzm_eQiDvbjuFIyMLZAO75aeItWsnXqLsdH2Ox9lx76U4w8ABlygC4Y0gIV8aCBb3dmDobZtnHnKm7fN1XjGMKIdYimeiVp2CD3W_jFbJ8s4c8lYeJG72rv9HMwyY7vaY/s1209/20230829_110301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2bDSO3DbBqBEIaIyLaEnGkE1_kvCutaLYluqe8Q92C4jNCdNtAEpe8IRi-pAzm_eQiDvbjuFIyMLZAO75aeItWsnXqLsdH2Ox9lx76U4w8ABlygC4Y0gIV8aCBb3dmDobZtnHnKm7fN1XjGMKIdYimeiVp2CD3W_jFbJ8s4c8lYeJG72rv9HMwyY7vaY/s320/20230829_110301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHFbgT1uXh77kcpVArExoYIgrCyNfq6lwW91kLvurDWqgMZwmQvMb628jwqQyJjJwLSdrt1qNOQYLrR3Kxe2nTunp5PoQTzWy0uJ3BKaVenCmxEaCLII7EhqJ3ELewCsOCEgcncjSdVLBMIxFdQNyazhU4kp2Ts_IQ4s0Z3cTNrmTE021JOf6FcsxKSU/s1209/20230829_110315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHFbgT1uXh77kcpVArExoYIgrCyNfq6lwW91kLvurDWqgMZwmQvMb628jwqQyJjJwLSdrt1qNOQYLrR3Kxe2nTunp5PoQTzWy0uJ3BKaVenCmxEaCLII7EhqJ3ELewCsOCEgcncjSdVLBMIxFdQNyazhU4kp2Ts_IQ4s0Z3cTNrmTE021JOf6FcsxKSU/s320/20230829_110315.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNZMte9i5VghZYf7ISbJUuWbCWTd_UsoILxO4DlJhjD_1D3IEZHR05-8snvBkKwAnYnWrV4rdDHJJYd02_M_qkRv9A32YWRoA17h24vRTpuDm1PU85gtCnBt6g2c_5dBaYpiLv5nA8mq4xrd2gv4VtG_CDh70YuRgPfa64wdU-eP6VLnMSn-e7U8CqlU/s1209/20230829_110743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNZMte9i5VghZYf7ISbJUuWbCWTd_UsoILxO4DlJhjD_1D3IEZHR05-8snvBkKwAnYnWrV4rdDHJJYd02_M_qkRv9A32YWRoA17h24vRTpuDm1PU85gtCnBt6g2c_5dBaYpiLv5nA8mq4xrd2gv4VtG_CDh70YuRgPfa64wdU-eP6VLnMSn-e7U8CqlU/s320/20230829_110743.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYXJCNREGi_t7igMN5HkMpzlpZCRSoDacjZx641nadNkx0Ok9BdLUtOSmXV5pzZrq2urEcFmgrK-vKPs3JyC2wuyGSU_yPhHMBS_79izVmYZyFoQNAkSRyOc5LC1XQIHd1kXDgBkDX7jL5KJSeRqHi_wv3DGEkOPRHL0yaJ7NLCB3_E3JIZfrxy1eigQ/s1209/20230829_111057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYXJCNREGi_t7igMN5HkMpzlpZCRSoDacjZx641nadNkx0Ok9BdLUtOSmXV5pzZrq2urEcFmgrK-vKPs3JyC2wuyGSU_yPhHMBS_79izVmYZyFoQNAkSRyOc5LC1XQIHd1kXDgBkDX7jL5KJSeRqHi_wv3DGEkOPRHL0yaJ7NLCB3_E3JIZfrxy1eigQ/s320/20230829_111057.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Cammina e cammina, eccoci al museo, che è deserto e molto snobbato, soprattutto dagli stranieri. La custode è quasi stupita nel vederci! In realtà le esposizioni, pur semplici e ridotte a quattro sale, illustrano in modo molto chiaro la storia della Bassa California, in particolare quella meridionale, dalla preistoria al secolo breve. Due parole al volo sulla storia di La Paz: i primi esseri umani giunsero qui qualcosa come 14.000 anni fa dall'America del nord, dopo il passaggio a piedi dello stretto di Bering. Erano nomadi con economia di sussistenza. Tra questa epoca e l'arrivo degli spagnoli, si formarono tre etnie distinte, con diverse culture e usanze: pericues, guaycuras e cochimies, che vivevano a sud, centro e nord della penisola.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimt8kvWvxGZ_tIh9bktu8aATr0E-pJky1LovZxop6NuzDyHwMTItbhCrkY6QOss8xptN_iSIBL9VTGXimBOQPbZntlZc3Ft0Vxthep0-kMheNPiHC2Ip_fU40ayiyJm7yDZx_MgUWHBHnJynb0YhWL3KYukR2Lt6-BpozCsWXcEhKoZ1-Fm9c1hEHvx7I/s1209/20230829_120928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimt8kvWvxGZ_tIh9bktu8aATr0E-pJky1LovZxop6NuzDyHwMTItbhCrkY6QOss8xptN_iSIBL9VTGXimBOQPbZntlZc3Ft0Vxthep0-kMheNPiHC2Ip_fU40ayiyJm7yDZx_MgUWHBHnJynb0YhWL3KYukR2Lt6-BpozCsWXcEhKoZ1-Fm9c1hEHvx7I/s320/20230829_120928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8S2OSwTEohWZCIjYbtxtwepBvOfgSxyhAhcnKY7JIph8rM9NS6ptiz8uJjDQrWeXKs19ldS0rCVFNDnX1JsLkgzzbyPNWuFxrPa_vxynss7kXN7zuJOmDULpb-498ms6Hc8VT5bJjuQ_Fj5-JoNV6S7EAmr2ycMUWa8stvLDJmKaf1BZtirLMz7IzqnI/s1209/20230829_121208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8S2OSwTEohWZCIjYbtxtwepBvOfgSxyhAhcnKY7JIph8rM9NS6ptiz8uJjDQrWeXKs19ldS0rCVFNDnX1JsLkgzzbyPNWuFxrPa_vxynss7kXN7zuJOmDULpb-498ms6Hc8VT5bJjuQ_Fj5-JoNV6S7EAmr2ycMUWa8stvLDJmKaf1BZtirLMz7IzqnI/s320/20230829_121208.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXUcDJeaWUD2-H9JwQ-Z7wMvEhow_vcXj9cCY4vwK0iMtzOctNg57ewZ1VYaU6I5pfREW3Bl1UUkmpNn8Hd_c5wHY2FanLZ60geuNKD_gCBNAjrFQ-066DiY5-fiXx1F8lrWLiDVBlm6hcpVUk4Othe89g_PskJtfcFYTWFywZmeQFCKDLRPwjRs9wXo/s1209/20230829_121244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXUcDJeaWUD2-H9JwQ-Z7wMvEhow_vcXj9cCY4vwK0iMtzOctNg57ewZ1VYaU6I5pfREW3Bl1UUkmpNn8Hd_c5wHY2FanLZ60geuNKD_gCBNAjrFQ-066DiY5-fiXx1F8lrWLiDVBlm6hcpVUk4Othe89g_PskJtfcFYTWFywZmeQFCKDLRPwjRs9wXo/s320/20230829_121244.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YWc2nVl4DNnoMv8wmIii4pxsyByzWWU63IRMFmyQCkafSvd-zuoqusLfedNakfL9DKPq3K2XfLbK7KSlYjJ6RDg1NIpQ6QiSafgtsnIP4fn6jfHWs457CQ6qFoCgEWH1-HIsdS65oEPnnGwA3cMw8RPFV-gozSKFJih1Rnup0kYQyVAobPaBZNSwAEM/s1209/20230829_121613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YWc2nVl4DNnoMv8wmIii4pxsyByzWWU63IRMFmyQCkafSvd-zuoqusLfedNakfL9DKPq3K2XfLbK7KSlYjJ6RDg1NIpQ6QiSafgtsnIP4fn6jfHWs457CQ6qFoCgEWH1-HIsdS65oEPnnGwA3cMw8RPFV-gozSKFJih1Rnup0kYQyVAobPaBZNSwAEM/s320/20230829_121613.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sepolti involtolati come tamales, con le ossa dipinte di rosso</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NUg7tFuS_3VXREvPUYZsJckwDwvzdH6SUjANBQ3lpRM44zvl5o9RFSkB9h1C3x2_aAbxaTtV9QHdAbSoLYUsnUvtVmQIdMG-qtt1CE5yk7CyAACxsMbp4GlixKHDFSO_f0J_Hge1uZDSyS2woraCMmcFCtu5B5HbwsY1lCLD7IHP_N26lg74PRAxSvo/s1209/20230829_121747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NUg7tFuS_3VXREvPUYZsJckwDwvzdH6SUjANBQ3lpRM44zvl5o9RFSkB9h1C3x2_aAbxaTtV9QHdAbSoLYUsnUvtVmQIdMG-qtt1CE5yk7CyAACxsMbp4GlixKHDFSO_f0J_Hge1uZDSyS2woraCMmcFCtu5B5HbwsY1lCLD7IHP_N26lg74PRAxSvo/s320/20230829_121747.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I primi spagnoli ad arrivare furono gli uomini di Cortés, e poi lui stesso, nel 1535. Inizialmente presero la penisola per isola, anche affascinati dai racconti di luoghi leggendari, colmi d'oro e abitati solo da donne bellissime sempre ignude. Cortés e i suoi, nonostante i tentativi di fondare insediamenti stabili (in primis qui a La Paz), non riuscirono a superare le difficoltà di approvvigionamento e logistiche, oltre ai rapporti mai pacificati con i nativi (anche perchè gli europei si erano presentati con un sorriso e stupri di massa). Dopo tre spedizioni e un gran dispendio di uomini e mezzi, i tentativi furono abbandonati. Poi giunsero i cercatori di perle e i missionari, gesuiti prima, poi cacciati, e francescani e domenicani poi. Anche qui la rivolta settecentesca delle popolazioni native portò distruzione, morte e vendetta. Anche qui si combatterono tutte le guerre dei secoli XIX e XX, senza risparmiarsi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjloOxcmutYzT6egJ9cgQPzX_ntTCu6rDlIb_AF6tV8GggExRVmO0ZOWRjpASA3OZKODYuI1tLhTHW-slaTt4dAf8QoEeALp3_ARRWT_d8Ietsze7KVAWXRb6ss4Bu2t7d3H5B6C_kgjigVeLJ2UkJzCWxvx4Jo65sCpePgyAPRp9qXZrnvdAq5KNuJ7K4/s1209/20230829_122833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjloOxcmutYzT6egJ9cgQPzX_ntTCu6rDlIb_AF6tV8GggExRVmO0ZOWRjpASA3OZKODYuI1tLhTHW-slaTt4dAf8QoEeALp3_ARRWT_d8Ietsze7KVAWXRb6ss4Bu2t7d3H5B6C_kgjigVeLJ2UkJzCWxvx4Jo65sCpePgyAPRp9qXZrnvdAq5KNuJ7K4/s320/20230829_122833.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUBofgBrXxO2MWHOyReB5BU-WJyhB0S7iPwQ1XK_bQrtUJH4Omb0Wu1HCFVRTsTzbRB97YXeYST2T3wpaz1v2xcXRjenrOzJn7k6ECh8qaQpaH0G35d1jdTO24DyNNzfFUvKAhXG2Xii7tV3KHwyA9EtAgUcLJB7RsCpD_846MfDT1SA5oae9oviGLMU/s979/20230829_123300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUBofgBrXxO2MWHOyReB5BU-WJyhB0S7iPwQ1XK_bQrtUJH4Omb0Wu1HCFVRTsTzbRB97YXeYST2T3wpaz1v2xcXRjenrOzJn7k6ECh8qaQpaH0G35d1jdTO24DyNNzfFUvKAhXG2Xii7tV3KHwyA9EtAgUcLJB7RsCpD_846MfDT1SA5oae9oviGLMU/s320/20230829_123300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4s2-QbYNUi5TY1RirZduqgp24fmKntFUiTfJBf2QxSZ1TB09kSjnr4oX1Kks9-JZddh8TQ9f3CKhbv48iQuE-Yd4ZY4TgkdSYcsLoOsiZwcUDWG2gkGFBsJR40JRGXGQpt9CT81izpDWRh0G27LBp0oO20Jn1QXUp2P1lEyqHCJlmlODa0gOf-Ra7-w/s1209/20230829_123318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4s2-QbYNUi5TY1RirZduqgp24fmKntFUiTfJBf2QxSZ1TB09kSjnr4oX1Kks9-JZddh8TQ9f3CKhbv48iQuE-Yd4ZY4TgkdSYcsLoOsiZwcUDWG2gkGFBsJR40JRGXGQpt9CT81izpDWRh0G27LBp0oO20Jn1QXUp2P1lEyqHCJlmlODa0gOf-Ra7-w/s320/20230829_123318.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzgKZgyDF6hRR7GwrnUNzmRg1LQKQwGgafXBxFgjssIu65EvjV_bIq8EJhJ7ZV-kg-_D83p64vaqm3VmjnPc9ic8DM3ZXnV7bixVwPp8hZURbg40jmOPP9bN1xt-XcQt0gsZSlFITdgv3i9QI6cigHZaWC8eJCoLn8p2uX0TjluRTSNu6NfdJP4elpRt8/s1209/20230829_123538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzgKZgyDF6hRR7GwrnUNzmRg1LQKQwGgafXBxFgjssIu65EvjV_bIq8EJhJ7ZV-kg-_D83p64vaqm3VmjnPc9ic8DM3ZXnV7bixVwPp8hZURbg40jmOPP9bN1xt-XcQt0gsZSlFITdgv3i9QI6cigHZaWC8eJCoLn8p2uX0TjluRTSNu6NfdJP4elpRt8/s320/20230829_123538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Le guide che controllano le sale sono così stupite di aver visitatori che sono super gentili e disponibili, e non perdono occasione di dare spiegazioni e aggiungere informazioni a quelle già presenti nei pannelli.</div><div>Già che ci siamo, gettiamo uno sguardo alla temporanea di un collettivo di giovani artisti che tratta miti, leggende e storia della Baja California. E' incredibile come l'arte fiorisca ovunque, qui, e sia in grado di rinnovarsi di continuo, in temi e stili, pur mantenendo forti radici che pescano in profondità nella tradizione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEssWefavzYdN9l8RfsAb9rnX9tGoU7u8mKzfetYJuhoa6DcFae3Ms4778k2GrwXU5fy_61AReNK2XQpNn27vyFoKy1iCMH1gYvHh5n0Ksd2dL4BBA6Lk8UP5XhsqsVC7bw9hEhUxz122ON6CyJkDpNQmNjNtSF3vhc-xqJWcRpoFWMi2L2SjOEImCpk/s1209/20230829_123846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEssWefavzYdN9l8RfsAb9rnX9tGoU7u8mKzfetYJuhoa6DcFae3Ms4778k2GrwXU5fy_61AReNK2XQpNn27vyFoKy1iCMH1gYvHh5n0Ksd2dL4BBA6Lk8UP5XhsqsVC7bw9hEhUxz122ON6CyJkDpNQmNjNtSF3vhc-xqJWcRpoFWMi2L2SjOEImCpk/s320/20230829_123846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVHNtNwS2QrPJbQauYhAgXhdg_D9acTcMOzE295W9qQ5ODCe6rh-t5bsV42dacgSgf-qDHCO1d4uZ_H44gPBsPcx_A53Qu6rDDgNYoUnlC6wpZffCU3vKkiU0zVl3Y-DCXwlc0FwKCVUeibK_VCJLU8okhPQ5Q19MpTQbRqKFskDR07dnQiFt3dhUKNoM/s1209/20230829_123915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVHNtNwS2QrPJbQauYhAgXhdg_D9acTcMOzE295W9qQ5ODCe6rh-t5bsV42dacgSgf-qDHCO1d4uZ_H44gPBsPcx_A53Qu6rDDgNYoUnlC6wpZffCU3vKkiU0zVl3Y-DCXwlc0FwKCVUeibK_VCJLU8okhPQ5Q19MpTQbRqKFskDR07dnQiFt3dhUKNoM/s320/20230829_123915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9_XTQ4oTktESfSSzWkosp-701WRKBD9CmwZ3bSV7GQ4t6kC2x7XhDIA4ym0y03rsIAhx7D6xg4vzkR9Z5s3b6VXC1cnKSRh_9KjC35h1dUxkofWORDKHccPH0SsJgnigCMaSKWKvYlJYMqy6jzrpVDtXa4AuVe4eVSXhv-UhZqx-PAXmVQGXxiBSEQuo/s1209/20230829_123932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9_XTQ4oTktESfSSzWkosp-701WRKBD9CmwZ3bSV7GQ4t6kC2x7XhDIA4ym0y03rsIAhx7D6xg4vzkR9Z5s3b6VXC1cnKSRh_9KjC35h1dUxkofWORDKHccPH0SsJgnigCMaSKWKvYlJYMqy6jzrpVDtXa4AuVe4eVSXhv-UhZqx-PAXmVQGXxiBSEQuo/s320/20230829_123932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWwHAoUalquJHOaJ-yE6wQNE9N4HUHawjYy999EUHJ2n1bd-7kyapNIoTSwCmyab5tukHjXYZUWcxlST74y1Mb0dffRDRcfqooYwjLd6v4M1hNlNbySkWeTYUmSHNuv0UIKAquc8KWxhzZhO51lgHPnaE39kdNQMmBlfKqyJxsY4rKEDyJSITwMgWqyM/s1209/20230829_124039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWwHAoUalquJHOaJ-yE6wQNE9N4HUHawjYy999EUHJ2n1bd-7kyapNIoTSwCmyab5tukHjXYZUWcxlST74y1Mb0dffRDRcfqooYwjLd6v4M1hNlNbySkWeTYUmSHNuv0UIKAquc8KWxhzZhO51lgHPnaE39kdNQMmBlfKqyJxsY4rKEDyJSITwMgWqyM/s320/20230829_124039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDNz4_gDqFMNl2j3dAFKDJS2SjvcMmbp9xxpnPBKopK3L2SEnbpoXathcRswxgH_RaB1H_qTszzrLFy_kl-Go0CjJyekNhExf1UL5WjWOoGJI26X-ZGVromwGYUVgnQQMbrV0LfgFxu5bmfDBUQa5Q7em6qRVdgMs9uocgibe-8zcsT2wYObL5Ei7XxEw/s1209/20230829_124048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDNz4_gDqFMNl2j3dAFKDJS2SjvcMmbp9xxpnPBKopK3L2SEnbpoXathcRswxgH_RaB1H_qTszzrLFy_kl-Go0CjJyekNhExf1UL5WjWOoGJI26X-ZGVromwGYUVgnQQMbrV0LfgFxu5bmfDBUQa5Q7em6qRVdgMs9uocgibe-8zcsT2wYObL5Ei7XxEw/s320/20230829_124048.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sempre sull'onda di questa consapevolezza, visitiamo anche il nuovissimo Museo di Arte (contemporanea), inaugurato da pochi anni e ospitato nell'ex palazzo municipale. All'interno gli spazi espositivi sono curatissimi e ci sono temporanee di diversi artisti, oltre a mostre fotografiche spettacolari.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5NJw_bqEHutudnE8P4x6PTBfglkAMwvv7xbaS9a9zOEWqCse_IpsDVUAbeGKvRYw8h5iZnCOt7z-dnflamwPPjhJoewfIQIqXtrcUim5yEW7Vy8pnQKoRNgVtT3IpH3tLDcU7Gub8TA1LlqLTlqH3jmZbdQzsv8eMtsjjagHoApDLU5hEALpLRygSecE/s1209/20230829_131121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5NJw_bqEHutudnE8P4x6PTBfglkAMwvv7xbaS9a9zOEWqCse_IpsDVUAbeGKvRYw8h5iZnCOt7z-dnflamwPPjhJoewfIQIqXtrcUim5yEW7Vy8pnQKoRNgVtT3IpH3tLDcU7Gub8TA1LlqLTlqH3jmZbdQzsv8eMtsjjagHoApDLU5hEALpLRygSecE/s320/20230829_131121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGAjOtVAO2D8sis8_7pGPW4W_d487RdjDBNPJ5rJE_I-yUnjgSxcE5RwkHXnGqKWbqZxJDeGD42vf3m5YnswNAgNYlPadQVf-hIae3FJLHB0FTWiStpGxCQ-tF-fMZGPw0OZDWfkjzorXdS-YmA7zvR-6qHggGuazj3_Z5lPCcQtch8_8XxCy4Xsw5pQ/s1209/20230829_131510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGAjOtVAO2D8sis8_7pGPW4W_d487RdjDBNPJ5rJE_I-yUnjgSxcE5RwkHXnGqKWbqZxJDeGD42vf3m5YnswNAgNYlPadQVf-hIae3FJLHB0FTWiStpGxCQ-tF-fMZGPw0OZDWfkjzorXdS-YmA7zvR-6qHggGuazj3_Z5lPCcQtch8_8XxCy4Xsw5pQ/s320/20230829_131510.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDc6i6rJ36jNrti_-vfYHJGCQUuqx15XTwRXieNYfHeaCZGrtdbRdsdA5xJtPwB7Id0hKTsMBODNcKL8X6b0HHHS3k1wobdraHZ1FXLfVSsInPTderbiccbWwC53NIdMdcPThODfcRevg9z9ZmxYv16cWYuiTBMCDivQCxkpwGLzHwtxVx_c1-7WsfXIM/s1209/20230829_131519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDc6i6rJ36jNrti_-vfYHJGCQUuqx15XTwRXieNYfHeaCZGrtdbRdsdA5xJtPwB7Id0hKTsMBODNcKL8X6b0HHHS3k1wobdraHZ1FXLfVSsInPTderbiccbWwC53NIdMdcPThODfcRevg9z9ZmxYv16cWYuiTBMCDivQCxkpwGLzHwtxVx_c1-7WsfXIM/s320/20230829_131519.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26xeXFlDPKwip0YQb3EU4bb5iA-0vFvS-LiOmoXpaAm44mXQDh-AGUzb6iaWHwAcKzrGVMyus2RrlnxnsbA6PYN64nnpV1Axa64NW5Ih-abT-F-sEbFVTWwbaA9SkpUAwRvBmmtTXzubWxqYnGDadqzUhnxozmLMrr4Y8gT8_sg2NtOCgI0gVpwedE80/s1209/20230829_131612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26xeXFlDPKwip0YQb3EU4bb5iA-0vFvS-LiOmoXpaAm44mXQDh-AGUzb6iaWHwAcKzrGVMyus2RrlnxnsbA6PYN64nnpV1Axa64NW5Ih-abT-F-sEbFVTWwbaA9SkpUAwRvBmmtTXzubWxqYnGDadqzUhnxozmLMrr4Y8gT8_sg2NtOCgI0gVpwedE80/s320/20230829_131612.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una particolare mi affascina: si intitola "Identità".</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aaUWiaU5USakggh1RTUxBDxMLFbrCLMScjUApL7hE3QXQDpqQjM65wg1QuTx-X3vd3RXwXzafgFsPevYOI4_ZgJ3opa1Kq9jF1TfglejSR9aCmKiSM6LN6YNlZim4J2IOLVYB-V_RlEj_PEdpg67VXm44y0o6BYNifv2tQL6jhDHppZwCy7q1YjkdGk/s1209/20230829_131914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2aaUWiaU5USakggh1RTUxBDxMLFbrCLMScjUApL7hE3QXQDpqQjM65wg1QuTx-X3vd3RXwXzafgFsPevYOI4_ZgJ3opa1Kq9jF1TfglejSR9aCmKiSM6LN6YNlZim4J2IOLVYB-V_RlEj_PEdpg67VXm44y0o6BYNifv2tQL6jhDHppZwCy7q1YjkdGk/s320/20230829_131914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTYPEfnn6bvWP0QRQKlydBEzvypajsCZEm1vMMB3zZlFiVoanqIGU6TOGhZkUCVi2SJJUorMxOHR9L8EAdGoKY21qAEbUjqEYago-09xsPTktsWprSxFm3ofnjOH9-Bt1VLpnZlIerMWV9s1s1EyyNym6TuZ1hn2-br2sOjMY1T-wZF2pVfntepPvrLs/s1209/20230829_131920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTYPEfnn6bvWP0QRQKlydBEzvypajsCZEm1vMMB3zZlFiVoanqIGU6TOGhZkUCVi2SJJUorMxOHR9L8EAdGoKY21qAEbUjqEYago-09xsPTktsWprSxFm3ofnjOH9-Bt1VLpnZlIerMWV9s1s1EyyNym6TuZ1hn2-br2sOjMY1T-wZF2pVfntepPvrLs/s320/20230829_131920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWS-ik7eHGY4rRNEEHtbfHfJeqKAvwUq4ajlG2_JvARsV6HeUrGHLJFlJ5S7j6MQeI7UQE1ZVyjlW1LZVaP4bvVMkUUIHPaq_XRbYzXvjwmzZBF54CZfU_tn4iKLKC8Zs4_nDtMxiLOU6IeuKCjq1rZdw-kCCnrhrTLCHjZf8mKHts8cNCXOzR7msonvY/s1209/20230829_131946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWS-ik7eHGY4rRNEEHtbfHfJeqKAvwUq4ajlG2_JvARsV6HeUrGHLJFlJ5S7j6MQeI7UQE1ZVyjlW1LZVaP4bvVMkUUIHPaq_XRbYzXvjwmzZBF54CZfU_tn4iKLKC8Zs4_nDtMxiLOU6IeuKCjq1rZdw-kCCnrhrTLCHjZf8mKHts8cNCXOzR7msonvY/s320/20230829_131946.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7956XCZ6SXbESIpJ0NvQwqSSrLerfMV-RlsfgDqxkBFnjYyOI7040RfpJHZnWFJd9FMi7KdHXOdp7jqlMHaTjRU68TrnYShbdd_tRgwOlRk9SFBi7tgPNWd1UnuRhc7fvQB5oy-oNGWjhyKvqu2MC8PVTYzWsQy-vgddhp9N8xBdyRqwzLD2rVm7sOY/s1209/20230829_131954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7956XCZ6SXbESIpJ0NvQwqSSrLerfMV-RlsfgDqxkBFnjYyOI7040RfpJHZnWFJd9FMi7KdHXOdp7jqlMHaTjRU68TrnYShbdd_tRgwOlRk9SFBi7tgPNWd1UnuRhc7fvQB5oy-oNGWjhyKvqu2MC8PVTYzWsQy-vgddhp9N8xBdyRqwzLD2rVm7sOY/s320/20230829_131954.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_yZtZlAo5EgIOdTznumFok-9ot-E_Bm1WIm18H567erVglMkXVZRqdNkwlOh6BhPkrVSjJM19_NrjIeMzRCk-56zhLCvpLOPp_xsmm3Dy98uZsBZsV_FzqGSRftWevy_RYF03EupvVwokJewwzy5FEjS2BaNpRUNOuwQzpymjtaMPAm07ckwfwweorc/s1209/20230829_132019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_yZtZlAo5EgIOdTznumFok-9ot-E_Bm1WIm18H567erVglMkXVZRqdNkwlOh6BhPkrVSjJM19_NrjIeMzRCk-56zhLCvpLOPp_xsmm3Dy98uZsBZsV_FzqGSRftWevy_RYF03EupvVwokJewwzy5FEjS2BaNpRUNOuwQzpymjtaMPAm07ckwfwweorc/s320/20230829_132019.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ayySmdEN5hq0sl6lNR4YLZkcNIH66B4cbBgQWLNg5Wn7diuHDaO5NpDDv8Fa1jvrjNQzr7-jIbpCkv_HiKp896sF5GTkqjT5YPGrHhV9ro4Fxj5VZyWXdsQZTsPI38sh_s839qPmaN2vqhen9vjOykbhk1X90jVdqUayiSEF_VZFmT6vX3XbP5Ysx24/s1209/20230829_132047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ayySmdEN5hq0sl6lNR4YLZkcNIH66B4cbBgQWLNg5Wn7diuHDaO5NpDDv8Fa1jvrjNQzr7-jIbpCkv_HiKp896sF5GTkqjT5YPGrHhV9ro4Fxj5VZyWXdsQZTsPI38sh_s839qPmaN2vqhen9vjOykbhk1X90jVdqUayiSEF_VZFmT6vX3XbP5Ysx24/s320/20230829_132047.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMICtuxFGlkQDhcIlthAjHhHl3tApdZPeK0gIc3FYRKcq8Hp7fW6jxbZ6JsoLj9O9xYuEy6Duo44mn_7lAXs-duoyDxQuracTG9Pj9MOXbqM4_w2g5tiGJUiIG8l93Cy9whQTUIC8GuhWIlAFLByH0FCMPe4t5jGQtyQZZxcl_CWbwqokICKtYK-WCfI/s1209/20230829_132140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMICtuxFGlkQDhcIlthAjHhHl3tApdZPeK0gIc3FYRKcq8Hp7fW6jxbZ6JsoLj9O9xYuEy6Duo44mn_7lAXs-duoyDxQuracTG9Pj9MOXbqM4_w2g5tiGJUiIG8l93Cy9whQTUIC8GuhWIlAFLByH0FCMPe4t5jGQtyQZZxcl_CWbwqokICKtYK-WCfI/s320/20230829_132140.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Bellissimo anche questo mural con la storia della Baja. Le foto sono dall'oggi a ritroso verso il passato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPTRpwLG1mHtbuu4ROlV-aKtX6uIqwWKk1SIOfXKkf8kU1qKk0-OUDHrN4Wo3TZr0bvP-Pb_kt9__be2Ku5_U6q5D-lRghq55R1J-Wdpo5O5Aq6W4EKdu6lkO3V4STqtYVsCGjvluvc86fTDGM1aRSl4UG3rsJqfukND3rNK7egpblFUwzoQil-vHrZY/s1209/20230829_132317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPTRpwLG1mHtbuu4ROlV-aKtX6uIqwWKk1SIOfXKkf8kU1qKk0-OUDHrN4Wo3TZr0bvP-Pb_kt9__be2Ku5_U6q5D-lRghq55R1J-Wdpo5O5Aq6W4EKdu6lkO3V4STqtYVsCGjvluvc86fTDGM1aRSl4UG3rsJqfukND3rNK7egpblFUwzoQil-vHrZY/s320/20230829_132317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi80xB4l9TZadJljiryHpE7zFQoXJ3YU-3ims7Jb2f_BNH8BENIm-_GmQAqW5hJWAHK5ODYqu2dN0_lGbS3gdMFjsDc3VOXzLONJ_G4zToZXMixc6K6xpd8mvLrj7v95XzzLGI8bXmiAp3NT9oL3o3acGkDiT4UI6urZ-cpEruS5FNt-vt1E9Uu5QbnKNQ/s1209/20230829_132325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi80xB4l9TZadJljiryHpE7zFQoXJ3YU-3ims7Jb2f_BNH8BENIm-_GmQAqW5hJWAHK5ODYqu2dN0_lGbS3gdMFjsDc3VOXzLONJ_G4zToZXMixc6K6xpd8mvLrj7v95XzzLGI8bXmiAp3NT9oL3o3acGkDiT4UI6urZ-cpEruS5FNt-vt1E9Uu5QbnKNQ/s320/20230829_132325.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLPbPi6f6MlHc1tUgsqAyQCMWUBAGcwGvcgrzZN9bGLtwMRCnwx9oj_euYIH08fVTrn7P5OqZebFEYpw1Pe7foplLxEeANu-4f6DtOmxHtpEh82UsfIqgITLGbNhGOme9wI4cFnzAfB7OshaPxUOg71ZV7LB3H61W5cfYpmbRie4SOuj5-WKUZbUmRBME/s1209/20230829_132334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLPbPi6f6MlHc1tUgsqAyQCMWUBAGcwGvcgrzZN9bGLtwMRCnwx9oj_euYIH08fVTrn7P5OqZebFEYpw1Pe7foplLxEeANu-4f6DtOmxHtpEh82UsfIqgITLGbNhGOme9wI4cFnzAfB7OshaPxUOg71ZV7LB3H61W5cfYpmbRie4SOuj5-WKUZbUmRBME/s320/20230829_132334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkP2yoEn7w4P8r8AN1Y52f_GweFQ6L_ggi4zm-7GXh6v-se1u7v3qpAKdH19Sl-yq42Slk5QSVq1uMF6BOj8zhm3heFWAqMweekCmUwPOqWHEVGMSaiFmPGOaP4fZYzbXaVNzysUNEoRbGIdwygzcWZYz7JIS1zMFgAx6MtsFPTlYpRcsi2k3V_abwTgM/s1209/20230829_132345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkP2yoEn7w4P8r8AN1Y52f_GweFQ6L_ggi4zm-7GXh6v-se1u7v3qpAKdH19Sl-yq42Slk5QSVq1uMF6BOj8zhm3heFWAqMweekCmUwPOqWHEVGMSaiFmPGOaP4fZYzbXaVNzysUNEoRbGIdwygzcWZYz7JIS1zMFgAx6MtsFPTlYpRcsi2k3V_abwTgM/s320/20230829_132345.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciamo soddisfatti, per un'altra passeggiata sul lungomare, qualche acquisto (Gigi non aveva ancora comprato la boule a neige per la sua collezione ormai vastissima!), un gelato e un placido rientro a casa. Pur facendo caldissimo, il cielo si è annuvolato e sembra minacci pioggia, con tuoni già vicini. Pazzesco! Qui è un evento raro. A casa concludiamo la chiusura pacchi, leggiucchiamo, riposiamo. Ed ora sono qui a scrivere, nel pomeriggio dell'ultimo giorno in Messico. Domani si parte, per tornare a casa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnicz8sQfZGjtxd5yr_4KAUPqxXeQh-BtDJS3q7b0EfZAj5U8-k3u_YbfLVfZuKb6jId-vbJ03cTF7zjjHi9apmI5tzMKBXbla1GRYaK5OZ34wzHWJZXnUa-1BFJPuAbzJOo7_KwQ7CmNfHUepPRUUQcGS2Ls-XCy3M5UpUh433AQFyQYMPO9gm842JMc/s1209/20230829_132520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnicz8sQfZGjtxd5yr_4KAUPqxXeQh-BtDJS3q7b0EfZAj5U8-k3u_YbfLVfZuKb6jId-vbJ03cTF7zjjHi9apmI5tzMKBXbla1GRYaK5OZ34wzHWJZXnUa-1BFJPuAbzJOo7_KwQ7CmNfHUepPRUUQcGS2Ls-XCy3M5UpUh433AQFyQYMPO9gm842JMc/s320/20230829_132520.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhJKvrTHsGXSch9_ezaHnfDjDrNUbNQa_hama0yOpvd0H41Tn7gHkJ3Khm219O0EBgE_HMvohv29ddGuYr7L7Tv0GqwUis8ti2tr7QN6KkdNSYOB63Wkz1dovwAOdbuVhzHy4PY9L5vBSakcSII_lJYuyu86B6iBRgbJQx0bvTOG_uREmw3gIbFA0sCA/s1209/20230829_142304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhJKvrTHsGXSch9_ezaHnfDjDrNUbNQa_hama0yOpvd0H41Tn7gHkJ3Khm219O0EBgE_HMvohv29ddGuYr7L7Tv0GqwUis8ti2tr7QN6KkdNSYOB63Wkz1dovwAOdbuVhzHy4PY9L5vBSakcSII_lJYuyu86B6iBRgbJQx0bvTOG_uREmw3gIbFA0sCA/s320/20230829_142304.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gringo gazette! No bad news</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Può darsi che scriva ancora qualcosa, riguardo a questo viaggio, e concluda in modo più degno, più poetico e meno asciutto. Ma non faccio promesse. Già di solito sono così stanca e non ne posso talmente più di pedalare di giorno e scrivere di notte, che salto persino le ultime tappe dei viaggi! Quindi chissà! Seguitemi sui social e qui, per scoprire cosa ci riservi il futuro!</div></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>El propósito de la exploración es tocar fondo,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>tocar altura, tocar límites, tocar …</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>para ver si nos abren la puerta.</i></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-57986186186403489032023-08-26T08:39:00.003+02:002023-08-26T08:39:56.412+02:0063-65. Los Cabos! Dal tropico alla Land's End, tra deserto e spiagge: la bellezza che toglie il fiato<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmFTW4-fIBecQ3u4t7pXwyEz9DuldCFk1U0nzYnIGa6LAQLcEW0nkqjsK1hxqtQ-KbrMJAzB-swPOTXiOClO-YTj8iNg-FJRGvE2iSGcg9tfZ-mpUP7wFMDgOJ_eRDDD5UOBABJiv8daD4f1nxjkl2RSZaldl1TGW6KITiPrrtn_NSeJhpoTDzfE3M_M/s1209/20230824_105024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmFTW4-fIBecQ3u4t7pXwyEz9DuldCFk1U0nzYnIGa6LAQLcEW0nkqjsK1hxqtQ-KbrMJAzB-swPOTXiOClO-YTj8iNg-FJRGvE2iSGcg9tfZ-mpUP7wFMDgOJ_eRDDD5UOBABJiv8daD4f1nxjkl2RSZaldl1TGW6KITiPrrtn_NSeJhpoTDzfE3M_M/w640-h480/20230824_105024.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">23/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">La Ventana-Los Barriles</div><div style="text-align: left;">98km (in teoria 80 ma ho sbagliato strada)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">La notte passa nel gran silenzio del deserto, che è interrotto a tratti dal frusciare di zampette rettili e dal grido di qualche uccello. Non fronde mosse dal vento, non onde, per quanto vicino sia il mare, non voce. Sembra però di sentire la risata cristallina e ammiccante delle stelle, che qui si vedono davvero, milioni, lontane, con la loro luce che attraversa le notti ancestrali e infinite e supera persino la morte stessa della sua fonte, ormai un sasso esploso, freddo, muto. Così è loro voce che sopravvive al tempo, così la nostra, quando "non omnis moriemur", per citare Orazio in persona diversa.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Veniamo svegliati dal caldo, nonostante i 3 enormi ventilatori che trasformano la camera nel secondo cerchio dell'Inferno dantesco. Alle 6 già il sole scotta. Quando usciamo, dopo colazione, apre in due la testa come un'anguria matura.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Salutiamo la proprietaria di casa, che ieri ho visto per errore desnuda in doccia (i bagni sono condivisi) e la cui immagine mi perseguita perchè TROPPO uguale a quelle statuette preistoriche di potnia theron, di dea madre rotondissima tutta tette pancia fianchi culo cosce. Pensavo fossero immagini astratte e volutamente esagerate per esaltare la fecondità, la fertilità... Invece no! Esiste nella realtà, si chiama Estefania e ha due trecce biondo platino tinte e stinte dalla salsedine.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">La Ventana ancora dorme, e così i suoi 255 abitanti, per lo più pescatori, e i pochi turisti presenti in questa torrida stagione.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Qui vivevano già 10.000 anni fa tribù di cacciatori-raccoglitori, come dimostrano le pitture rupestri trovate in zona. Cortés giunse qui da La Paz, in nave, nel 1535, ma dopo aver tentato di stabilire un insediamento, a causa di problemi logistici abbandonò il progetto. Nel 1596 giunse Vizcaino, a capo di una spedizione di cercatori di perle, ma nemmeno lui riuscì a stabilirsi qui. Il primo insediamento risale al 1695, ma più a nord. La città odierna fu fondata solo nel 1940 da un pescatore di perle, Salomé Leon, trasferitosi qui da La Paz quando la sua attività divenne poco redditizia. I suoi discendenti ancora vivono qui e fanno i pescatori.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Salutiamo anche i cactus, la sabbia e le schegge di mare e ci rimettiamo in strada, ripercorrendo a ritroso gli ultimi 8km di ieri, per tornare sulla strada principale che segue la costa ma un poco all'interno, nell'entroterra. Oggi andremo a imboccare la famosa Highway 1, l'unica strada che attraversa tutti i 1200km di penisola della Baja California, da Tijuana, al confine statunitense, a Cabo San Luca, il punto più meridionale.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm25iyv7OOiFv1Ztgbkk4cSwJbX57yqUGPBm_o2abO26mAshZsHAiNafPG-Gi0C0Zo8ltljv4orA_tDfvOlqVUnx672s4yAsVLdZvj5ECdJsgHCQbn7lQzXaCLnrJDgEXtVu6gjyEIRY0x8ZJEV5GKQygQm_UITpu1WYOVyaxxrcGweFyp5AuvJeCMIWo/s1209/20230823_082359.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm25iyv7OOiFv1Ztgbkk4cSwJbX57yqUGPBm_o2abO26mAshZsHAiNafPG-Gi0C0Zo8ltljv4orA_tDfvOlqVUnx672s4yAsVLdZvj5ECdJsgHCQbn7lQzXaCLnrJDgEXtVu6gjyEIRY0x8ZJEV5GKQygQm_UITpu1WYOVyaxxrcGweFyp5AuvJeCMIWo/s320/20230823_082359.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhh6-yMWGml383Fo76MJkcNMchQC-jhyQ-dRrYclcqVY5MOCTHYlvFVszXz92afF_fv6ay2YfM0EQo-hN_GCSue2E02hjzo-O6dt94heYKEYNxjKICMfmsEEwEqAQCOqRkGay1xwjOnLSNRi4WNJdCyeTPErwUtl_RoVzl_ZOoaybirfALvbpLio9fe0U/s1209/20230823_084633.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhh6-yMWGml383Fo76MJkcNMchQC-jhyQ-dRrYclcqVY5MOCTHYlvFVszXz92afF_fv6ay2YfM0EQo-hN_GCSue2E02hjzo-O6dt94heYKEYNxjKICMfmsEEwEqAQCOqRkGay1xwjOnLSNRi4WNJdCyeTPErwUtl_RoVzl_ZOoaybirfALvbpLio9fe0U/s320/20230823_084633.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqyYuYlW-RbAVazKXMxiz5GKTo4agnfzrobQQlwSkF608BQR_-JV62k93BGSc6a6HonjUsW9oOXI0kHFi_nHfL0xcEv71Y8DMiibQ7U_7ojxFzoU6g9bzvY1QNyo7tl1E9Ahxk8So6QBGiIFSk-LAmspfniKZjwF9vtSyC_A5FBvBE90au7nQ1ZfEsz8/s1209/20230823_085327.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqyYuYlW-RbAVazKXMxiz5GKTo4agnfzrobQQlwSkF608BQR_-JV62k93BGSc6a6HonjUsW9oOXI0kHFi_nHfL0xcEv71Y8DMiibQ7U_7ojxFzoU6g9bzvY1QNyo7tl1E9Ahxk8So6QBGiIFSk-LAmspfniKZjwF9vtSyC_A5FBvBE90au7nQ1ZfEsz8/s320/20230823_085327.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le mucche che pascolano qui sono tutte infilzate di pezzi di cactus appesi alla pelle per le spine!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik9YaGlLmNbbKrM3MJYt2kEQykBciun9ecj_Z7wqSlrahMSyqc_Mo5Y1v0uyEx8d7tQpWXuzB2WVOxtlWzYzVZbxsc0HlpVjilbeG4OoXnQKTtphudpvdwEFHeAxpX7oK7szkRfWaHKBcFEKXUXa6wIcDjyziQ_LnhX2-kieCX0cRPPbEexzha9pA6iPE/s1209/20230823_085544.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik9YaGlLmNbbKrM3MJYt2kEQykBciun9ecj_Z7wqSlrahMSyqc_Mo5Y1v0uyEx8d7tQpWXuzB2WVOxtlWzYzVZbxsc0HlpVjilbeG4OoXnQKTtphudpvdwEFHeAxpX7oK7szkRfWaHKBcFEKXUXa6wIcDjyziQ_LnhX2-kieCX0cRPPbEexzha9pA6iPE/s320/20230823_085544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEfXKwfZoa5i5Iq34GFLnDNNVcTH4HenUxctFgLI4yEt9M3tOfpVVdbMPQa6D4cnVal0ASlRHQePHClLnzgbyqQx3OmHpfvjG6uVZeUIm-pl7Svk3Hcesnhp6oOwRqsjLjLWhMfKnHaWXJk1olYkAWNeS0JP87GhLYZtMEEm7hBFzXNGHkMTsCAx6vLGI/s1209/20230823_085547.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEfXKwfZoa5i5Iq34GFLnDNNVcTH4HenUxctFgLI4yEt9M3tOfpVVdbMPQa6D4cnVal0ASlRHQePHClLnzgbyqQx3OmHpfvjG6uVZeUIm-pl7Svk3Hcesnhp6oOwRqsjLjLWhMfKnHaWXJk1olYkAWNeS0JP87GhLYZtMEEm7hBFzXNGHkMTsCAx6vLGI/s320/20230823_085547.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tanto è bello costeggiar la costa, e tanto ci piace che ogni 2km ci siano locali per bere acqua fresca, che sbaglio strada. Il bivio non è assolutamente segnalato, e la nostra strada, piccina e sabbiosa, corre nel cuore della Sierra de la laguna, il gruppo montuoso che occupa il sud della Baja. Poi qui son davvero parchi di cartelli e segnaletica, mannaggia a loro! Per fortuna, a un certo punto, mi viene il sospetto di aver mancato la svolta e, quando controllo, con orrore constato che siamo andati troppo avanti di 8km. La tensione del momento e la rabbia nei confronti di me stessa innescano un litigione di quelli grossi con Gigi, il quale non solo non mi aiuta a capire se c'è modo di rimediare all'errore (se non tornando indietro) ma mi risponde anche male. Ora: dal punto di vista logistico il carico organizzativo è al 99% sulle mie spalle, con tutte le responsabilità, lo stress e la fatica che ciò comporta, tanto più che non devo badare solo a me stessa. E' la prima volta in tutto il viaggio che toppo di così tanto. Il tono sgarbato nei miei confronti è immeritato, e non manco di sottolineare il concetto per la successiva ora, in toni coloriti (diciamo), mentre torniamo sui nostri passi, sapendo che gli 82km previsti saranno poi quasi 100 (che tra caldo e dislivello è una distanza impegnativa).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPW_-MLZ0OGuc_2caGXACIzZyjaY4vtf1IhZ5HxWjdrLV8djfxh5TLIzPs8wZKv74y78T3PdOZk-2hcMRID0KyYMt4Z-9buyc7bfHZ4Z7BjSvfvU9-c9hvAwW2PRBieQ1qG9Pw140JW57tjW0SYs_bbjE9TavH3BYbTlyjAOBgYC58v-8z_6tY87-nJo/s1209/20230823_093635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPW_-MLZ0OGuc_2caGXACIzZyjaY4vtf1IhZ5HxWjdrLV8djfxh5TLIzPs8wZKv74y78T3PdOZk-2hcMRID0KyYMt4Z-9buyc7bfHZ4Z7BjSvfvU9-c9hvAwW2PRBieQ1qG9Pw140JW57tjW0SYs_bbjE9TavH3BYbTlyjAOBgYC58v-8z_6tY87-nJo/s320/20230823_093635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qm-8iwJXg2Aa1y4O8y_v9AgUVo6BXZhpc4DCRmJleFZ5j_KgihUS9lZFhJ2EoNWHDE4szz3MJwa9fJaQo5MXmCwaCKK9Mvkp9hKpWrJMuH-dxcDM6j5moXaQZ1SFNuinNayCsrKr1JmJrsVJ8vdhI_ySDB1W74PUA_B1I-vixQA5g-hSgPWJFB2N8CQ/s1209/20230823_093750.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qm-8iwJXg2Aa1y4O8y_v9AgUVo6BXZhpc4DCRmJleFZ5j_KgihUS9lZFhJ2EoNWHDE4szz3MJwa9fJaQo5MXmCwaCKK9Mvkp9hKpWrJMuH-dxcDM6j5moXaQZ1SFNuinNayCsrKr1JmJrsVJ8vdhI_ySDB1W74PUA_B1I-vixQA5g-hSgPWJFB2N8CQ/s320/20230823_093750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLUVVjNOQZKEVsNomwWg_D-UfWiu7yIj0-8v9vibtWIdV-txwYZJB1LYArPONfyv0-GN1yfgWithKTmHJwWuPnVY7O6DFygVT1UVLIP9TMo-ZUTdIeT3_4cTTPAFGrbaKvzDWZhVPJloWkeJM9LoB0y6uEmQuhhGAMK2gdzJ49yjJku3FeCJM07eJZOQ/s1209/20230823_093752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkLUVVjNOQZKEVsNomwWg_D-UfWiu7yIj0-8v9vibtWIdV-txwYZJB1LYArPONfyv0-GN1yfgWithKTmHJwWuPnVY7O6DFygVT1UVLIP9TMo-ZUTdIeT3_4cTTPAFGrbaKvzDWZhVPJloWkeJM9LoB0y6uEmQuhhGAMK2gdzJ49yjJku3FeCJM07eJZOQ/s320/20230823_093752.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Torniamo al bivio mancato e imbocchiamo la strada, che è tappezzata di serpenti enormi (ma non crotali) e iguane spiaccicate. Vi dono un'immagine splatter: queste bestie sono piene di budella, sono gavettoni di interiora ben compresse nella pellaccia rugosa. Quando esplodono sotto alle auto è una pignatta di intestini. La strada inizia ad arrampicarsi. All'inizio è una lunga rampa morbida, poi diventa un susseguirsi di muretti a saliscendi. Però sul fondo delle discese si accumula la sabbia, che costringe a rallentare tantissimo, e non si riesce mai a prender velocità. Una pena. Il caldo poi, più ci si allontana dalla costa, più diventa insoffribile. Di norma non sudo molto, ma qui scopro come possano grondare parti del corpo che nemmeno pensavo potessero gocciolare: la piega delle palpebre, che mi indirizza il sudore salatissimo negli occhi, accecandomi; i baffi, le ginocchia e i gomiti. Mi sciolgo, lascio pozze sotto di me, i vestiti sono zuppi come se mi ci fossi tuffata in mare. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWF0UigUE1wiJJZc4b-YJV6Gd5UkXvW8cuTQAbfijl6xuWn-UEzC7XLXDnsQek1cMNa4MHn_CApb083LUiQpjnnuNL2_jvXOONTM7XQT5m2yqAdqkXq1wTCxF-C0M0JHDczdsyvaUuZgDGEZs89ioQW7v76tAJ8U8DIHrtXbF65esJ9XIpofD7BfTbvps/s1209/20230823_112843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWF0UigUE1wiJJZc4b-YJV6Gd5UkXvW8cuTQAbfijl6xuWn-UEzC7XLXDnsQek1cMNa4MHn_CApb083LUiQpjnnuNL2_jvXOONTM7XQT5m2yqAdqkXq1wTCxF-C0M0JHDczdsyvaUuZgDGEZs89ioQW7v76tAJ8U8DIHrtXbF65esJ9XIpofD7BfTbvps/s320/20230823_112843.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPscF-Di-eNydYZ7Ga5c0E-9T4EiqbkAMVLI3QDPpxhWwC-GR0VgrJZvIYOhgXRcdJ1VjWx-brjFqCuxwlwYtrcuoZco4Ls6ENV2JsuPH9QuA7Pbich2kItjwlVPBJBGD-JX-4tOEqd4Q278uolF6EB6mx4ZE8Mgd3xWpcUHFGbu8NlzzQpPrx20F0Us/s1209/20230823_113822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPscF-Di-eNydYZ7Ga5c0E-9T4EiqbkAMVLI3QDPpxhWwC-GR0VgrJZvIYOhgXRcdJ1VjWx-brjFqCuxwlwYtrcuoZco4Ls6ENV2JsuPH9QuA7Pbich2kItjwlVPBJBGD-JX-4tOEqd4Q278uolF6EB6mx4ZE8Mgd3xWpcUHFGbu8NlzzQpPrx20F0Us/s320/20230823_113822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8T3YnzkOgwK5gHV421tXy5V2Mx7aIWiKpDWAAOLY8aH42Xtdmx_sTIapCaiMKB4DNOiGBd3hWo2kO93kjDG53Q296RBAA1u1_q927HzkDW0Ln0Q3oSgRl1RsEmUyEeqFNxwTYQJYFLRkhXi-khmLECK0byROo9an0L-QJooQ0lPcnw-Sfp9-KRVcuUyI/s1209/20230823_115125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8T3YnzkOgwK5gHV421tXy5V2Mx7aIWiKpDWAAOLY8aH42Xtdmx_sTIapCaiMKB4DNOiGBd3hWo2kO93kjDG53Q296RBAA1u1_q927HzkDW0Ln0Q3oSgRl1RsEmUyEeqFNxwTYQJYFLRkhXi-khmLECK0byROo9an0L-QJooQ0lPcnw-Sfp9-KRVcuUyI/s320/20230823_115125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A un certo punto Gigi si ferma a versarsi l'acqua in testa, per rinfrescarsi. Lo supero, e non lo vedo più. Penso sia rimasto un po' indietro, come capita spesso a entrambi a seconda dei giorni, e proseguo pian piano fino al primo paesino, dove trovo un filo d'ombra e dell'acqua. Non sono più di 5km da dove ci siamo staccati. Mi chiama Gigi, cosa rarissima, e mi dice di non stare bene. Gli spiego che sono poco avanti, e lo aspetto, ma non torno indietro, e nel caso non riesca a proseguire può comunque prendere un passaggio... Aspetta e aspetta, inizio a preoccuparmi. Il suo telefono risulta offline e senza campo. Aspetto ancora. Quando finalmente riusciamo a sentirci, lo sento tutto arzillo che mi dice di aver fatto l'autostop e di esser stato caricato da un camionista gentilissimo che lo sta portando a destinazione, anzi, sono quasi già arrivati. La cosa mi fa un tantinello innervosire, e poi mi amareggia. Mi attendono ancora 40km di colline bastarde, di caldo e di sete. Non ho tutto il necessario in caso di foratura o guasti, perchè il materiale lo tiene Gigi. Inoltre, ed è la cosa che mi dà più fastidio, mi è passato per forza davanti, perchè la strada è uno ed io ero in bella vista a un incrocio ad aspettarlo. A perdere tempo. Mando giù il boccone amare e mi faccio forza: di questo passo sono tre o anche quattro ore in sella, considerando che al pomeriggio di alza il vento ed è contrario. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK8eOlaCDUYMh7oCFweSbR75DtyLnrrcq_bIgTqaL6-Sg6V0T6AwuvFJQ9d4FVuwgUbZdRDS5XZLtox-AY0K_5Z61ysl99MGUY0P_nFXICadKyfy59ZZiG0Z21g8V6wZ0b1Sp6qdVLqMBu8jqFG2LhmM6kk9RVo2HUQuQ5QwR6NPKHZ5lksIUwansGyYY/s1209/20230823_122634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK8eOlaCDUYMh7oCFweSbR75DtyLnrrcq_bIgTqaL6-Sg6V0T6AwuvFJQ9d4FVuwgUbZdRDS5XZLtox-AY0K_5Z61ysl99MGUY0P_nFXICadKyfy59ZZiG0Z21g8V6wZ0b1Sp6qdVLqMBu8jqFG2LhmM6kk9RVo2HUQuQ5QwR6NPKHZ5lksIUwansGyYY/s320/20230823_122634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyYRejkWpMucMlsfgFTAsRd_cGn_ri2KKV5W1dTMj04gqT7F7a9QGu8X2k11HSYUvIJ3eaw-E5j66nI1tbmI5hWmqfmtyPiUyo8b0teoi-c59DO8-g8S-8rCd7BRQqswpmzQDDXNfLsJiCYffIbouDtTUijDYPRPnOSv7srf2FyUvL0-jqaBvRzFy12c/s1209/20230823_123643.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyYRejkWpMucMlsfgFTAsRd_cGn_ri2KKV5W1dTMj04gqT7F7a9QGu8X2k11HSYUvIJ3eaw-E5j66nI1tbmI5hWmqfmtyPiUyo8b0teoi-c59DO8-g8S-8rCd7BRQqswpmzQDDXNfLsJiCYffIbouDtTUijDYPRPnOSv7srf2FyUvL0-jqaBvRzFy12c/s320/20230823_123643.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La strada corre tra colline verdissime, che sembrano un altro mondo rispetto al deserto e alle foreste di cactus appena lasciate alle spalle. Sono le sottane lunghe della Sierra la Laguna, che è tutta una riserva naturale che mira e proteggere flora e fauna (tra cui cervi, coyote, volpi grigie, avvoltoi...). Vedo tantissimi cardinali, gli uccellini rossi con il ciuffo punk che finora avevo visto in così gran numero solo negli USA.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSRAOg4XQroaU9c_WTMpwTwO8SE5WDaSU-WL9JuGAVWlSVAtN3co1faPV8hC6k78XXdXHZkKclQYIREdTN4UjGf0MFN4TViwEEUz-qQ0ueb2xSsN1QqjURWJicZD9QLhYOQ1Y09dUJ2nwwcPXxdjxjL5JuDpMfWhTSZ1iCOGjqnXYxjZ3e7Xt32qgdtak/s993/20230823_124840.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="745" data-original-width="993" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSRAOg4XQroaU9c_WTMpwTwO8SE5WDaSU-WL9JuGAVWlSVAtN3co1faPV8hC6k78XXdXHZkKclQYIREdTN4UjGf0MFN4TViwEEUz-qQ0ueb2xSsN1QqjURWJicZD9QLhYOQ1Y09dUJ2nwwcPXxdjxjL5JuDpMfWhTSZ1iCOGjqnXYxjZ3e7Xt32qgdtak/s320/20230823_124840.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJHVJljsABvso86A7GSUhvc82N1GLM5IL5r5kQpulVVyr5TANn-as89Gh_WwYDQWA53p66IERc5N1uRPEmbUVWnwnnsL5hkHQi91Ov0IJ62Zn2Q1IYCkuDXqwL-Nu4qjk5UhO9MUIjHSVnNDFT-qUSfJaRJErkKGXs5RiGSuUv6IJzxQod73N4ARgWUU/s1209/20230823_124849.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJHVJljsABvso86A7GSUhvc82N1GLM5IL5r5kQpulVVyr5TANn-as89Gh_WwYDQWA53p66IERc5N1uRPEmbUVWnwnnsL5hkHQi91Ov0IJ62Zn2Q1IYCkuDXqwL-Nu4qjk5UhO9MUIjHSVnNDFT-qUSfJaRJErkKGXs5RiGSuUv6IJzxQod73N4ARgWUU/s320/20230823_124849.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf_JqJLzpyesGr5mJJVzswl2z8qaqY30n_ly2_TI966e-G9sNzYYqHxv5sDrGBgjRyK34Y4oxlAnhYoEDK8OExHmXOmNPGf4dVIKbGbad5_-e6G7iPX5Rlhdz5wNTJvxjgkzkEle61DOoDbj5B0kXrY_Ee64IYntE5DlkVOWnGR2BdwRaYSNNSO55xdxc/s1209/20230823_125316.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf_JqJLzpyesGr5mJJVzswl2z8qaqY30n_ly2_TI966e-G9sNzYYqHxv5sDrGBgjRyK34Y4oxlAnhYoEDK8OExHmXOmNPGf4dVIKbGbad5_-e6G7iPX5Rlhdz5wNTJvxjgkzkEle61DOoDbj5B0kXrY_Ee64IYntE5DlkVOWnGR2BdwRaYSNNSO55xdxc/s320/20230823_125316.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dalle foto non si può capire la fatica bestiale, animalesca, che si fa a pedalare su questi falsipiani, controvento, sotto al sole. Per fortuna non c'è traffico di sorta e la strada è pulita ed ha un fondo in ottime condizioni. Ogni volta che si può faccio scorta d'acqua: mi è tornata la fissazione della sete irrisolta, il pensiero intrusivo del "metti che poi fino all'arrivo non c'è più nulla e buchi e devi fartela a piedi e arrivi domattina, che bevi?". Questo mi tiene al riparo dal rimanere a secco, e, devo dire, nemmeno una goccia delle borracce va sprecata.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4a7svu6zoNnIYSeglfFkN2sqA29dWtLWe1AiH4l1UbL36IDwQ38AA30795L58QYdecdl6z9vWR6QqyDSbAKE22kfxNw29gBZMZmFe8_UZWEL7iPfGNSOae6Xi8ZNO8XnsbN4NT8juxs5xKdWVBwtQ5nSHa4eFNm7ytHVg7cdcEb3pX6Z8gPblVwsX87A/s1209/20230823_125326.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4a7svu6zoNnIYSeglfFkN2sqA29dWtLWe1AiH4l1UbL36IDwQ38AA30795L58QYdecdl6z9vWR6QqyDSbAKE22kfxNw29gBZMZmFe8_UZWEL7iPfGNSOae6Xi8ZNO8XnsbN4NT8juxs5xKdWVBwtQ5nSHa4eFNm7ytHVg7cdcEb3pX6Z8gPblVwsX87A/s320/20230823_125326.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzxgvFo2DgOVBCUMnWovUb5c-0UC8pWNtY1eNmQw-IHNAiI2F6G6WRhNrYzJBzd-EBQcohrtWs7kCv7LH9Ox46kDq890Pk7D-Tm8lqIjUeHwxKGXJMLTZCZ_O6CyBJmjkLrz0bqbuIskrdyqQRC67LrZstavKnNhrwVuC6vhKsew_--zKpfyUmCUSmQPM/s1209/20230823_125331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzxgvFo2DgOVBCUMnWovUb5c-0UC8pWNtY1eNmQw-IHNAiI2F6G6WRhNrYzJBzd-EBQcohrtWs7kCv7LH9Ox46kDq890Pk7D-Tm8lqIjUeHwxKGXJMLTZCZ_O6CyBJmjkLrz0bqbuIskrdyqQRC67LrZstavKnNhrwVuC6vhKsew_--zKpfyUmCUSmQPM/s320/20230823_125331.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCbeSGdMsYfi8DvWG_G5aghTNwDBrnatpkOWGRqn9dsl9Mpy_geSLp10v85k0DAh8q8P3xZfH_NqjGKt69sDkty_MPrQ5p8uvuJ_jd75oJ8jzIR5B0Zg1w0qsD7gKZcVH37ztLhpOXlJwIUqL6gxq_1VHriCpatvdx9VHRdsOzSN3XwPUlSSFaIsvfgI/s1209/20230823_130345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxCbeSGdMsYfi8DvWG_G5aghTNwDBrnatpkOWGRqn9dsl9Mpy_geSLp10v85k0DAh8q8P3xZfH_NqjGKt69sDkty_MPrQ5p8uvuJ_jd75oJ8jzIR5B0Zg1w0qsD7gKZcVH37ztLhpOXlJwIUqL6gxq_1VHriCpatvdx9VHRdsOzSN3XwPUlSSFaIsvfgI/s320/20230823_130345.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLfZHF4d2jFYxTu0reu-44MfcgVRATzNAb0bJw7VtdO61YZOeKdzzQmnbT4_FLvB4xRqC-pwLMRSwPoFkHGeOikuUmoddGtZFPUOMmLs9nsCnEBcNpzkvxNELnrkIlKQlarhQjy6k6o8nqqZSLuevM_kVEXPzGXRprrkr74vkU9VflxIUNatO44Dsp7M/s1209/20230823_130353.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLfZHF4d2jFYxTu0reu-44MfcgVRATzNAb0bJw7VtdO61YZOeKdzzQmnbT4_FLvB4xRqC-pwLMRSwPoFkHGeOikuUmoddGtZFPUOMmLs9nsCnEBcNpzkvxNELnrkIlKQlarhQjy6k6o8nqqZSLuevM_kVEXPzGXRprrkr74vkU9VflxIUNatO44Dsp7M/s320/20230823_130353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il paesaggio torna a tratti più arido, tra roccioni nudi e distese di sabbia. Poi si segue il canyon scavato dal fiume che sfocia proprio accanto a Los Barriles, e dovrebbe essere meta di escursioni per le sue belle cascate. Io vedo solo un letto di sabbia asciuttissima, chiara, quasi bianca, e nemmeno un rivolo stagnante... Pe fortuna siamo nella stagione delle piogge!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBaap2T1GXgIWB5Wz7W8CDL_P8dNy5GM3KcFX47bEluhImTIHcbZiPhVRTsmteh7eSdbC248UDya2rywTHA1JlAG3gf8bMDmSNPA6jY36KSIlBV5u9rvHDIgcJlFu6A2m_JRZWLJQSBDy9K06dOjGCYbrNhfOlvc2RhhjYbVBLsyFfEYOh_l48tu6a_UA/s1209/20230823_134507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBaap2T1GXgIWB5Wz7W8CDL_P8dNy5GM3KcFX47bEluhImTIHcbZiPhVRTsmteh7eSdbC248UDya2rywTHA1JlAG3gf8bMDmSNPA6jY36KSIlBV5u9rvHDIgcJlFu6A2m_JRZWLJQSBDy9K06dOjGCYbrNhfOlvc2RhhjYbVBLsyFfEYOh_l48tu6a_UA/s320/20230823_134507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KgWZKhjPkqe8Empr_FHK1RHC2nSuJy2yNo7y_1vaooIglBlHT_e-cDwKFGcDUM9gmum1sMmAnO6uAPudf8UbzF_34f7Bu73Di5_nCPjN5gVlOVCURYEW6rVRHgYoKB0EUM47u2RVOqIMHcHAG3kK_-gnE62z-FRbMrEPEaryUgs6dAzSvofVZpCTSTY/s1209/20230823_141625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KgWZKhjPkqe8Empr_FHK1RHC2nSuJy2yNo7y_1vaooIglBlHT_e-cDwKFGcDUM9gmum1sMmAnO6uAPudf8UbzF_34f7Bu73Di5_nCPjN5gVlOVCURYEW6rVRHgYoKB0EUM47u2RVOqIMHcHAG3kK_-gnE62z-FRbMrEPEaryUgs6dAzSvofVZpCTSTY/s320/20230823_141625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8y2t1u0tmPovjP6IR9vLeZvSEvQIy3wGVbE5lNF-_Hunh2rPeVvbfbcnAUzKxMnTyjV2DQoxUuvwaqV2hPDuriMBnw-u0QVej6WG-vBkrv1vkmc5bPw7IMb9j4mO9GWiuymhC3Ew2fO9KrdHxlxGf6z6oLIU2ZlobxWy86nK1-P20cgY2BRMXNd-XaTA/s1209/20230823_142744.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8y2t1u0tmPovjP6IR9vLeZvSEvQIy3wGVbE5lNF-_Hunh2rPeVvbfbcnAUzKxMnTyjV2DQoxUuvwaqV2hPDuriMBnw-u0QVej6WG-vBkrv1vkmc5bPw7IMb9j4mO9GWiuymhC3Ew2fO9KrdHxlxGf6z6oLIU2ZlobxWy86nK1-P20cgY2BRMXNd-XaTA/s320/20230823_142744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_BmrbxTKFJ7paCRpnST8ZMNHwSlBHe-7lplCvIwECnmz-nNx1Rtpa7yKZIDJdRg_EsLRIHU-kuWAy_ebnaaGT6McjcsIPg8pxxcGiAf25E_qqBAYZsN7iCqJgzJo-PsC915B36vMrT-R2q-LbPHDhj7vff8Nf1unsz7Xk6hWdlRB6r43MOIg3b0G5oA/s1209/20230823_144533.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_BmrbxTKFJ7paCRpnST8ZMNHwSlBHe-7lplCvIwECnmz-nNx1Rtpa7yKZIDJdRg_EsLRIHU-kuWAy_ebnaaGT6McjcsIPg8pxxcGiAf25E_qqBAYZsN7iCqJgzJo-PsC915B36vMrT-R2q-LbPHDhj7vff8Nf1unsz7Xk6hWdlRB6r43MOIg3b0G5oA/s320/20230823_144533.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghb4I3FwKg4rCZrFmjsz6vA7C1O9_ZeQZdGPYtrZXXj_i4o66VsH3Y3V6umidDmnUeEeGBoUSBZZ7xlxHRRSRwVqgtWDFePVd2AOr42Qp_0O4WrYi4nyW1c9gkQneERrZdngSf9J3xORmZ0REZee-5g0P867zLH9NMseePrAFsxAdOpfAjBumTqdEaDWA/s1209/20230823_144801.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghb4I3FwKg4rCZrFmjsz6vA7C1O9_ZeQZdGPYtrZXXj_i4o66VsH3Y3V6umidDmnUeEeGBoUSBZZ7xlxHRRSRwVqgtWDFePVd2AOr42Qp_0O4WrYi4nyW1c9gkQneERrZdngSf9J3xORmZ0REZee-5g0P867zLH9NMseePrAFsxAdOpfAjBumTqdEaDWA/s320/20230823_144801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR2GNk8jNa0v3JUTdpMJG_lF_5NiRsCcU54EwwMYzfKW-xPgUZuTn-V3U3S5GpzXx8wv9B2XFC3deW11nKwvoAG9irUT19HQVUZYpFrtJAfeD8DKD2qf6JT905eDpIaQmjKWR_DwrmTChM4M8QC-1GfrptMhBt2a-ABtYY2ilVMTa2Umyrk7rWZr0YWLw/s1209/20230823_144802.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR2GNk8jNa0v3JUTdpMJG_lF_5NiRsCcU54EwwMYzfKW-xPgUZuTn-V3U3S5GpzXx8wv9B2XFC3deW11nKwvoAG9irUT19HQVUZYpFrtJAfeD8DKD2qf6JT905eDpIaQmjKWR_DwrmTChM4M8QC-1GfrptMhBt2a-ABtYY2ilVMTa2Umyrk7rWZr0YWLw/s320/20230823_144802.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo tanto salire alcune lunghe discesone mi riportano alla vita, con l'aria fresca sui vestiti madidi e il mare che torna in vista, azzurro da fondersi al cielo. Le salite non sono finite: per entrare in città ci sono due aspri promontori da superare, collegati da un ponte. Chiedo a Gigi di cominciare a chiamare qualche struttura, perchè qui i prezzi mi paiono assurdamente alti e non ho prenotato nulla. Lui esita, ma poi si convince "con le buone" attraverso alcuni vocali perentori. Purtroppo tutti gli alberghi economici sono al completo. Un dolore al cuore, l'ennesimo, oggi!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvn0k130h08sYw8NihpxXP58RlluuxOblZI4BtMX93JJC3kRSX9O6vk87xOfhf9_QdNkFupJmL_UEDgGpWB-6wBvM53VnUhE0fGpvC2PtWPJIvulv5m8Gu6uVZXBLSN_BM9U8JLubThrHubCz1jJTGtxJnfEEuue5z6DEx8n7gIkTQ55bZ0hAGlv1UKMU/s1209/20230823_145116.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvn0k130h08sYw8NihpxXP58RlluuxOblZI4BtMX93JJC3kRSX9O6vk87xOfhf9_QdNkFupJmL_UEDgGpWB-6wBvM53VnUhE0fGpvC2PtWPJIvulv5m8Gu6uVZXBLSN_BM9U8JLubThrHubCz1jJTGtxJnfEEuue5z6DEx8n7gIkTQ55bZ0hAGlv1UKMU/s320/20230823_145116.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Con un ultimo sforzo raggiungo la città e trovo Gigi sotto ai portici di un supermercato, dove è rimasto in attesa per ore, fino a metter radici. Rimando a più tardi la discussione e il rinfaccino delle sue -opinabili scelte odierne. Ora c'è un'urgenza logistica da risolvere: trovare un posto per la notte. Chiamo il più cheap degli hotel fuori budget, il primo consigliato dalla guida, e mi dicono che hanno posto. Bene. In dieci minuti siamo alla reception.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijM4O7l8fCRcLD2EPFc5jMPhXRbv_FEhLgDBxPVFE5QMT-ECOtAKe2sKe_j6IRiD-8R2pqfG5uVYXquXiQJYCwmmksq6f1fq4zQipWqOfQN48nnomqQ_AdL0L1uGFLNW5h0PA_HStMUvjg2nrRTfeRGywrSmHW4_a99wHUjaBqo2Rsie6QMqZ3wglc6Q/s1209/20230823_152735.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgijM4O7l8fCRcLD2EPFc5jMPhXRbv_FEhLgDBxPVFE5QMT-ECOtAKe2sKe_j6IRiD-8R2pqfG5uVYXquXiQJYCwmmksq6f1fq4zQipWqOfQN48nnomqQ_AdL0L1uGFLNW5h0PA_HStMUvjg2nrRTfeRGywrSmHW4_a99wHUjaBqo2Rsie6QMqZ3wglc6Q/s320/20230823_152735.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Inizia poi una lunga e penosa discussione perchè i prezzi indicati su Booking e sul sito dell'hotel sono specchietti per le allodole, trappole malefiche. Sono espressi in dollari americani, ben accetti in contanti. Ma se paghi con la carta o in pesos, eh no!, allora cambia tutto. In un caso c'è una percentuale extra (20%, roba da denuncia), nell'altro mica usano il tasso di conversione attuale, no no. Usano un tasso di conversione stabilito dall'amministrazione dell'hotel, ovviamente ben più conveniente per loro. Insomma, tra una discussione in spagnolo, una in inglese, un vaffanculo in italiano e un modulo di accettazione compilato con il dito medio alzato (mail: gofuck-yourself.gmail.com; residenza: via Stocazzo 1, Suca, MI, Italy) pago una cifra intermedia tra l'inculata con la sabbia e quella con la granella di peperoncino e siamo in camera. Se non altro mi son tolta la soddisfazione di non lasciargli la cifra piena che chiedevano. Il diavoletto sulla spalla mi suggerisce di lasciargli danni camera per una cifra ben più alta di quella estorta, ma poi tocca pulire e sistemare a chi non c'entra nulla, e non è giusto. Certo l'hotel è di altra categoria rispetto ai nostri standard, e la camera pare un appartamento e c'è pure la piscina in cortile.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvO4HWyDOa2pbsBIu_cCdlP_oicukoczfO9ILKr-5RIiblWQTmY1ukJ7x2D3zMzYQqBt1bJQbspOICYM0_9-QgFWolMIcgew7goqj9PAVm8g_Qc1wvuhMh9O3nGP4jwapIvslKqiV_rSlVsvdhrj18QYCLOJWu2S2f0p8tk5vFZ08Feq8yaYj_DtmLw3c/s1209/20230823_183248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvO4HWyDOa2pbsBIu_cCdlP_oicukoczfO9ILKr-5RIiblWQTmY1ukJ7x2D3zMzYQqBt1bJQbspOICYM0_9-QgFWolMIcgew7goqj9PAVm8g_Qc1wvuhMh9O3nGP4jwapIvslKqiV_rSlVsvdhrj18QYCLOJWu2S2f0p8tk5vFZ08Feq8yaYj_DtmLw3c/s320/20230823_183248.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji7-EdJnoVOCLCZHIPeS3ORdC2gCbmCgwd_onObMsIxT5T1KZRHoyiwGVJUYZmNBBdDbtBIa18v-qL8xF6mMrqzW8QQYyOhg4OSF9Xb4gR6aqkbSdw9frRl9MEo1ZMy7h7rJWEyY1G8u0Or7phhR4OrUqps4C-bi9MEFMQVSIBZn3299-1xUN1lSvPi64/s1209/20230823_183311.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji7-EdJnoVOCLCZHIPeS3ORdC2gCbmCgwd_onObMsIxT5T1KZRHoyiwGVJUYZmNBBdDbtBIa18v-qL8xF6mMrqzW8QQYyOhg4OSF9Xb4gR6aqkbSdw9frRl9MEo1ZMy7h7rJWEyY1G8u0Or7phhR4OrUqps4C-bi9MEFMQVSIBZn3299-1xUN1lSvPi64/s320/20230823_183311.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo la doccia, un po' di riposo e un po' di logistica per domani, Gigi ed io finiamo la discussione e ci chiariamo. E anche questo nodo si scioglie. Poi facciamo una passeggiata in paese, che è proprio la classica località turistica per gringos amanti delle onde e delle tavole, fino alla spiaggia. Il crepuscolo amalgama luci e colori e trasforma il paesaggio un acquarello che sfuma al miele, al lilla, all'azzurro cupo fuso al rosa. Anche qui c'è pochissima gente, solo un paio di coppie con bimbi piccoli e una ragazza che legge. Non ci sono rifiuti, la sabbia è finissima, bianca, mista a frammenti di conchiglie e pietruzze di tutti i colori. Sulla battigia corrono i paguri, portandosi appresso la loro casa a chiocciola. Alcune barche di pescatori sono ancorate a qualche decina di metri dalla riva e tutto l'universo è in pace, in equilibrio perfetto tra giorno e notte, tra terra e acqua.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZfNambwCJMFHJqyTmmBdnHV4J-5y2ARbu-PPSBl9e7AQ01_eFalYiPzB80ZKyT2dt26bZAPIMOrHVNuX8nRujqUsQLHl6K42PXzdxNZ1VeNFFxiria1VdIt3FNmGkJLcibTtp8hYeIRmUih3uIsW2ubXG_yH3WW0ptjCsutfD8TRKYLm1SHr_Z__0LY/s1209/20230823_183422.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZfNambwCJMFHJqyTmmBdnHV4J-5y2ARbu-PPSBl9e7AQ01_eFalYiPzB80ZKyT2dt26bZAPIMOrHVNuX8nRujqUsQLHl6K42PXzdxNZ1VeNFFxiria1VdIt3FNmGkJLcibTtp8hYeIRmUih3uIsW2ubXG_yH3WW0ptjCsutfD8TRKYLm1SHr_Z__0LY/s320/20230823_183422.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipxGZ2Sytw384f3PhfBMQ6xNwMTyCY5KT8XRCqsiZ3vWEvD2cy2i-GrZZgJBZlHMAOL2Q1M-Jd3yQGtPr_Qv0S5tZvwYFvxqwcZ9pzSA3v-WI9t4V5EB17ekBHqEkUb4HK-g2teeCUV0z-cXvaPiKjsBd1xs5BmgPBK9khMgEWURSaR03suQ3-kpZ-BxM/s1209/20230823_184015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipxGZ2Sytw384f3PhfBMQ6xNwMTyCY5KT8XRCqsiZ3vWEvD2cy2i-GrZZgJBZlHMAOL2Q1M-Jd3yQGtPr_Qv0S5tZvwYFvxqwcZ9pzSA3v-WI9t4V5EB17ekBHqEkUb4HK-g2teeCUV0z-cXvaPiKjsBd1xs5BmgPBK9khMgEWURSaR03suQ3-kpZ-BxM/s320/20230823_184015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENtdt385snftnYzbxU8Rhzkx8amoScb4YJa_0bcmAqEnt_WsI2XK2u__zo9KK8bHG9J2QUpg9GvFoqgE1mKA-hWcG2j-xqnPzB9R8Qy-PswhML_HvYzoiiKJAZxZebAXGu0jRj9-PCEmKGYwpWdwzCZsWw_ImaQzcVfdiwxc1VjyNGqptfShb6mrynCU/s1209/20230823_184059.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENtdt385snftnYzbxU8Rhzkx8amoScb4YJa_0bcmAqEnt_WsI2XK2u__zo9KK8bHG9J2QUpg9GvFoqgE1mKA-hWcG2j-xqnPzB9R8Qy-PswhML_HvYzoiiKJAZxZebAXGu0jRj9-PCEmKGYwpWdwzCZsWw_ImaQzcVfdiwxc1VjyNGqptfShb6mrynCU/s320/20230823_184059.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8FAvFT8sGVTK4yPKNCx8E5gmw1zLiDyzL9Jjt0pkq4YtblZqjGyrYRwFvzCzStM55gdRLdxF_u7sOm1KdnfP44IN6Lc6CuXllo29HlYrY3PvQ0DLFPMXR8nHdDDGkM2FJovdDYrzRFeQpWkBofjq8dnYLB1vnfMECHTxS3jDsE7kNds5lwXWlWKvG-bQ/s1209/20230823_184221.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8FAvFT8sGVTK4yPKNCx8E5gmw1zLiDyzL9Jjt0pkq4YtblZqjGyrYRwFvzCzStM55gdRLdxF_u7sOm1KdnfP44IN6Lc6CuXllo29HlYrY3PvQ0DLFPMXR8nHdDDGkM2FJovdDYrzRFeQpWkBofjq8dnYLB1vnfMECHTxS3jDsE7kNds5lwXWlWKvG-bQ/s320/20230823_184221.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SX3VWyihmnV8AES7QPl0YH-0G7WsYQ0E_o0Cu5Tnrt8GuoiZIB-4SgEl12JWqXV87E5Yww3IdQUSJOZvD7oYETL63nJk4poOmtf30WF3BXukppZqXxrDmVr2691vOxEyR8MEXQ0wpW1yFGoSzCLoOiqqBj2c6zfkN7ly5ir84mqXncvCtBQ5KZUXec0/s1209/20230823_184226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SX3VWyihmnV8AES7QPl0YH-0G7WsYQ0E_o0Cu5Tnrt8GuoiZIB-4SgEl12JWqXV87E5Yww3IdQUSJOZvD7oYETL63nJk4poOmtf30WF3BXukppZqXxrDmVr2691vOxEyR8MEXQ0wpW1yFGoSzCLoOiqqBj2c6zfkN7ly5ir84mqXncvCtBQ5KZUXec0/s320/20230823_184226.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhVkD5ydNT0k1teAknxYTPFmyDHuvQnQ1MM22ZjQWQA2TjppyB7Ssl62PU0DS8mFgcrEekz2NAEJhh1om2ZzjU1QJRyCCJjIbl0dKR4-Dk1A7xLyfpCACq1EBxLC64jdQhmNYcvdhmfHan16A-GiyWa8UmX2xRmPMGprDrOQoZGevp8k6vIPmgM0-35g/s1209/20230823_184234.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhVkD5ydNT0k1teAknxYTPFmyDHuvQnQ1MM22ZjQWQA2TjppyB7Ssl62PU0DS8mFgcrEekz2NAEJhh1om2ZzjU1QJRyCCJjIbl0dKR4-Dk1A7xLyfpCACq1EBxLC64jdQhmNYcvdhmfHan16A-GiyWa8UmX2xRmPMGprDrOQoZGevp8k6vIPmgM0-35g/s320/20230823_184234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5QjOew76JueEBUHAnz8qcgrS4cl5ZxMWOIXzqS7Q4UY7IKZtKZ7mg7wwKfXrv0GAwPIYxOc4X2L--bJyhz1jDmYZhqnzuJcZ6UP6q7yAgbMRcfRk984N9Gm2aISQ9SbTvAvowxIfv0CoGNQQYb6Opbm9WcHFlvhv0oTKvH6QQhhUIBUI9eMLsoJyj9Bo/s1209/20230823_184327.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5QjOew76JueEBUHAnz8qcgrS4cl5ZxMWOIXzqS7Q4UY7IKZtKZ7mg7wwKfXrv0GAwPIYxOc4X2L--bJyhz1jDmYZhqnzuJcZ6UP6q7yAgbMRcfRk984N9Gm2aISQ9SbTvAvowxIfv0CoGNQQYb6Opbm9WcHFlvhv0oTKvH6QQhhUIBUI9eMLsoJyj9Bo/s320/20230823_184327.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVtTa7EgFhFt5YyxLxpUS1eURa3v_uvm81p31MNqCfS4LqN-G73ESykXUBFtmn7isSR3_5DXgxnjYBMRoNEfBW8kFwWq-FNwaq2aD_sz4jW0pmC0Qx162kWTdLDO5m7ZTU9irCbCgLR4t0njMs_ps1fM6j26K1pV5Vcnx9gwgmewszaGZTSOGQmudp4c/s1209/20230823_184342.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVtTa7EgFhFt5YyxLxpUS1eURa3v_uvm81p31MNqCfS4LqN-G73ESykXUBFtmn7isSR3_5DXgxnjYBMRoNEfBW8kFwWq-FNwaq2aD_sz4jW0pmC0Qx162kWTdLDO5m7ZTU9irCbCgLR4t0njMs_ps1fM6j26K1pV5Vcnx9gwgmewszaGZTSOGQmudp4c/s320/20230823_184342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Unica nota negativa: si può andare in spiaggia, proprio sulla sabbia, fino al bagnasciuga, con l'automobile. Ora non c'è nessuno e si vedono solo alcune auto distanti; passano un paio di dune buggy di quelli che sembrano policia della costa. Però dai, in auto in spiaggia anche no!</div><div><br /></div><div>Per cena andiamo nell'unico locale che non sia fighetto o troppo tamarro: è un sushi, in teoria, ma in pratica serve piatti fusion tra cucina messicana e sino-giappo-asiatica. In poche parole: riso, pesce cotto, pollo, verdure e salse, molto fritto, molto saporito, molto buono e basta. Da bere ci portano una specie di enorme granita al mango, condita con il peperoncino a granella. E' DI-VI-NA!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdST5B0pYTepZ_3PniWeAlJV3f5ebDNqz3tLvuJTy-qQ4CkQ1oXnsmrR9ZfEPVuzCRDkvLUL04Y7YOQoyBmix3t_3qXKMuXvzZFgDwf5FVXHq-zSMUuhjk66J8pydzzb82SMupgljdjkebQivMH8V8MOCtOnszbLAakiJuhgBpGoVEqZU_l9o1eXQ0nI/s1210/20230823_193939.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdST5B0pYTepZ_3PniWeAlJV3f5ebDNqz3tLvuJTy-qQ4CkQ1oXnsmrR9ZfEPVuzCRDkvLUL04Y7YOQoyBmix3t_3qXKMuXvzZFgDwf5FVXHq-zSMUuhjk66J8pydzzb82SMupgljdjkebQivMH8V8MOCtOnszbLAakiJuhgBpGoVEqZU_l9o1eXQ0nI/s320/20230823_193939.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Gigi sta per commettere di nuovo l'errore del peperone piccante inghiottito intero in traghetto, stavolta con delle pallette di wasabi che scambia per olive. Me ne accorgo per tempo ed evito il peggio, ma il rischio, qui in terra messicana, è sempre dietro l'angolo!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Domani lasceremo questa capitale del kite e del windsurf, per proseguire spediti a sud, al primo "cabo": San José del Cabo. Attraverseremo la linea del tropico e approderemo in questa città ricca di storia e storie, oggi turistica, un tempo porto per le navi che mercanteggiavano con la Cina.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">24/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">Los Barriles-San José del Cabo</div><div style="text-align: left;">81km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">La notte porta riposo e consiglio, e ci svegliamo freschi, carichi e pronti ad affrontare la giornata; Gigi, soprattutto, si è ripreso e pare proprio in gran forma! Bene così: temevo di dover pedalare sola, in questi ultimi giorni, e che lui si perdesse tutta la bellezza di questi luoghi in bilico tra deserto ed oceano.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Colazione in camera con le immancabili tortillas e marmellata di ananas, fuori le borracce dal freezer e siamo pronti per saltare in sella, in un'aria già spessa di umidità e salsedine, sabbia e calura. Ci lasciamo alle spalle Los Barriles e imbocchiamo di nuovo la highway 1, che ci condurrà fino alla fine del viaggio, a La Paz. Per i primi km si rimane vicini alla costa, e gli scorci del mare dall'alto, con i suoi riflessi argentei e le sfumature di blu, sono incredibili.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcDXh-W0UzGIIwpEPuDE86VHeDswPL49WmEuoRRbVSMB8zEyaIoKwCZf1UooWbEJj2W9zXBiaf7Q2Jgq5I9mxtu4WeHjcPhZdxysXc2seBKDw8z7SXupAzqQpU3kRBbv6YPw4hfTAAhGHRizZv50TfSlQ4UEvHrJydzCE3urVxr9JjPNid1iDTnVG1T0/s1209/20230824_084559.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcDXh-W0UzGIIwpEPuDE86VHeDswPL49WmEuoRRbVSMB8zEyaIoKwCZf1UooWbEJj2W9zXBiaf7Q2Jgq5I9mxtu4WeHjcPhZdxysXc2seBKDw8z7SXupAzqQpU3kRBbv6YPw4hfTAAhGHRizZv50TfSlQ4UEvHrJydzCE3urVxr9JjPNid1iDTnVG1T0/s320/20230824_084559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3xRZvEnYl5JIGqdipUOpmcyZgvfVn_bYH5_YM_3YE3NVaa0oalZfR6vxfMTQIya5FCDbX1rrJQTCOUOD9z9j3Z3ywB-tWHSGJoD38W4sfLq20dGYRgFbAg-Du9Rfdx7W6bY3ppXWlzgd8PegU_sD9gdcmnG1Sja9IsyjuS6A6UWMA-KgOUcao6zKDprM/s1209/20230824_084608.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3xRZvEnYl5JIGqdipUOpmcyZgvfVn_bYH5_YM_3YE3NVaa0oalZfR6vxfMTQIya5FCDbX1rrJQTCOUOD9z9j3Z3ywB-tWHSGJoD38W4sfLq20dGYRgFbAg-Du9Rfdx7W6bY3ppXWlzgd8PegU_sD9gdcmnG1Sja9IsyjuS6A6UWMA-KgOUcao6zKDprM/s320/20230824_084608.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Poi la strada vira nettamente a sud, allontanandosi dalla costa per infilarsi a fondo tra le propaggini dei monti della Sierra la Laguna; non ci sono passi da scalare, oggi, ma una lunga serie di colline separate da canyon e letti aridi di fiumi in secca. Immaginate una fila di trapezi isosceli: su un lato obliquo si sale, poi si resta in cima, in piano, per un po', sul lato corto, per scendere dall'altro lato obliquo, nei sabbioni un tempo abitati dai pesci. E così via, ogni manciata di minuti, su, piano, giù, su, piano, giù. Per tutti e 80 i kilometri pedalati oggi. Inutile dire che, sulle salite, le temperature diventano un argomento drammatico e problematico. Non c'è crema solare, non acqua rovesciata in testa, non ombra che risparmino la pena.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In compenso, intorno, è tutto verde e non desertico, per quanto arido. Tra i cespugli pascolano cavalli, mucche e capre, tutti liberi e non sorvegliati. Delle auto non han timore, ma quando passiamo noi, anche distanti, queste placide bestione fuggono terrorizzate, soprattutto se le saluto (di norma non mancano mai un "Ciao muuuucche" o "Ciao cavallini!" - chiaro riferimento a Francesco Gozzelino).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib58Cxt4PK0AT--wzCgUTbiz7D5cKhQtgyjrymWtn3zOlIGehvQKCyLbb-T3TU6atR8fVZwD3hlSGTap1jB6EkMo7u3XBhiuWy3TH-t2B044v1OrLlnzX0uUNE6cwzS6Sri-7m-A9YNLtyqhjudZ3qyYKRDRJuSN76RsdvlEsnaJ44nSyDIvHPjC8E2YM/s1209/20230824_085946.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib58Cxt4PK0AT--wzCgUTbiz7D5cKhQtgyjrymWtn3zOlIGehvQKCyLbb-T3TU6atR8fVZwD3hlSGTap1jB6EkMo7u3XBhiuWy3TH-t2B044v1OrLlnzX0uUNE6cwzS6Sri-7m-A9YNLtyqhjudZ3qyYKRDRJuSN76RsdvlEsnaJ44nSyDIvHPjC8E2YM/s320/20230824_085946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFkuC0l9WHMcRclGXM3fPCvHRzXCjXhLHIDK6W2MVh4hu278gi2YtKq0Ug8bTVS3525EwiAwc_SAz0KmpU52eRakmwouxLe9AY_IGG56U3u623m36m0W3DBLq15vs8W6dxZTn1n5ukjPwUkiqeYcvyPdSiuotdu1oLxScbyg-yabZunPAKtnROK8tQ8ss/s1209/20230824_094209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFkuC0l9WHMcRclGXM3fPCvHRzXCjXhLHIDK6W2MVh4hu278gi2YtKq0Ug8bTVS3525EwiAwc_SAz0KmpU52eRakmwouxLe9AY_IGG56U3u623m36m0W3DBLq15vs8W6dxZTn1n5ukjPwUkiqeYcvyPdSiuotdu1oLxScbyg-yabZunPAKtnROK8tQ8ss/s320/20230824_094209.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Ogni ora al massimo dobbiamo fermarci a riempire le borracce, e ci concediamo il lusso non caricarci troppo di acqua, che poi diventa brodo, grazie alla presenza di minuscoli pueblos disseminati qua e là a distanza ragionevole.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3TZyL41gIgSTZBdGLbvyCsAgeKi3smrVZVB77DdU1TOLHqeQ8p4TLxnqprnC7oNJz6qMVk9XT1DWJkHHCZaHEiVVIhBxq_vcEZW1dkE_S6H9ilLz_iCxaixjzdXmlfGKDV5rLK6eFyVK7YijWGcQ1bgXS5z7nta48KilcGWdj2-lx1MWG5uL8V6ODsY/s1209/20230824_104349.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3TZyL41gIgSTZBdGLbvyCsAgeKi3smrVZVB77DdU1TOLHqeQ8p4TLxnqprnC7oNJz6qMVk9XT1DWJkHHCZaHEiVVIhBxq_vcEZW1dkE_S6H9ilLz_iCxaixjzdXmlfGKDV5rLK6eFyVK7YijWGcQ1bgXS5z7nta48KilcGWdj2-lx1MWG5uL8V6ODsY/s320/20230824_104349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Proseguiamo spediti, nonostante il continuo saliscendi, fino a raggiungere un passaggio interessante: la linea del tropico del Cancro! Pensare che questa linea corra attorno a tutto il mondo e colleghi qui alla Mauritania, a Taiwan, fa venire il capogiro e fa sentire minuscoli.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN54UdOtqir3Awl54ZOyHsKg0djYlOYLJYM2UZijrxi3mzmRKYe8rAFKWiP580VA8W91x5hRYCc1bQ7AOv-RpqNSvsuSczsbWCutfYQ7Hwtvm1w6LTEGq52-dSkhSbNeUzlPQMU4t4NdMNQzGLmvi8C9X5m5tgpIpzKPKCEWQnXzWBqou9O2qPWUnl40I/s1209/20230824_105055.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN54UdOtqir3Awl54ZOyHsKg0djYlOYLJYM2UZijrxi3mzmRKYe8rAFKWiP580VA8W91x5hRYCc1bQ7AOv-RpqNSvsuSczsbWCutfYQ7Hwtvm1w6LTEGq52-dSkhSbNeUzlPQMU4t4NdMNQzGLmvi8C9X5m5tgpIpzKPKCEWQnXzWBqou9O2qPWUnl40I/s320/20230824_105055.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLrXOg24CxVTEis2JIhQldloLXzokoMJQ5ELOd3U9dxg0gAf-WJekZoIP1werb1pge96TmNFXaW0Dc_ITcbhuWVeMzeR3TIgLhe-aDO1JO8bqjS0OrZ2BOewU6jYvJw9auBiBPlW7zvmKPyZ6w4wp618HdldmgqS2jeXabZbxQV1vVvalZZynWCJ6-Wc/s1209/20230824_105433.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLrXOg24CxVTEis2JIhQldloLXzokoMJQ5ELOd3U9dxg0gAf-WJekZoIP1werb1pge96TmNFXaW0Dc_ITcbhuWVeMzeR3TIgLhe-aDO1JO8bqjS0OrZ2BOewU6jYvJw9auBiBPlW7zvmKPyZ6w4wp618HdldmgqS2jeXabZbxQV1vVvalZZynWCJ6-Wc/s320/20230824_105433.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dopo le foto di rito, ripartiamo ad affrontare i nostri trapezi isosceli di colline con canyon. La strada è stretta e qui pare che i più non siano particolarmente svegli alla guida. O fanno manovre pericolosissime, o ci si piazzano dietro e rimangono in attesa per decine di minuti, procedendo al nostro passo, cioè 15km/h quando sprintiamo. In ogni caso sono più i gesti e le parole di apprezzamento o incoraggiamento che le sclacsonate irritate. E qui non sente più parlare di "gringos", "extranjeros", "camarones".</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRb2rDIGAr8QUwlKr11-6RjBv6s8ZSDtwnYk7DPEJVnVkUb9ox_zi1VA1jSAb8YquDZ7odMwIfkYUWAZ9fXdvC-092U-4bFiERHQIgJ1qK9IIUu61o_H84GmAiFRxuTru2TRRU9wHjy1qKbqpyto8iWfHkPJCrMpWhPCnTJjwl3Wcfmun1WcB1LOg3mug/s1209/20230824_112012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRb2rDIGAr8QUwlKr11-6RjBv6s8ZSDtwnYk7DPEJVnVkUb9ox_zi1VA1jSAb8YquDZ7odMwIfkYUWAZ9fXdvC-092U-4bFiERHQIgJ1qK9IIUu61o_H84GmAiFRxuTru2TRRU9wHjy1qKbqpyto8iWfHkPJCrMpWhPCnTJjwl3Wcfmun1WcB1LOg3mug/s320/20230824_112012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR72Y7SpZoT8Nd4FWq31uwmY-b3vM7oyt3WJLgxDzYU3PgtojOdhnozrXkEO3QsIRlDzT-KpHGkQWYNDg0rU5UNhmpA6InZs-V5jSdnWKKzrW8O5g0o0fHddHjfLNlbUg1AnYetopiHmRjWIk1pBtNZ5BolK8-LJOfM7KgJpKG2UlMkmOM3yUCSJDoJdU/s1209/20230824_114324.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR72Y7SpZoT8Nd4FWq31uwmY-b3vM7oyt3WJLgxDzYU3PgtojOdhnozrXkEO3QsIRlDzT-KpHGkQWYNDg0rU5UNhmpA6InZs-V5jSdnWKKzrW8O5g0o0fHddHjfLNlbUg1AnYetopiHmRjWIk1pBtNZ5BolK8-LJOfM7KgJpKG2UlMkmOM3yUCSJDoJdU/s320/20230824_114324.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pausa acqua presso una loncheria sulla strada, gestita da signora e anziana madre, che si beve un brodino caldo... Ci sono solo ottomila gradi! Signora, lei vuole ammazzare la abuelita!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7IPFsuYVcEpd1bc8J-KAlqGcNVpPTke_Ih0nmSr1wL8peV7ntbkqaGmHA3xLc7_wKVd8KrP5nmU7qDbfJEeKBcosSbInNKZoUDHdooIXeu4Jii6Ol50QPrvmjIYqdDQWNSJKWeyYZX0K7gq41w9oV3JgQ0Lwh1JU7Ij6XQYELSBIA_stvhVijD2MG7sM/s1209/20230824_120757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7IPFsuYVcEpd1bc8J-KAlqGcNVpPTke_Ih0nmSr1wL8peV7ntbkqaGmHA3xLc7_wKVd8KrP5nmU7qDbfJEeKBcosSbInNKZoUDHdooIXeu4Jii6Ol50QPrvmjIYqdDQWNSJKWeyYZX0K7gq41w9oV3JgQ0Lwh1JU7Ij6XQYELSBIA_stvhVijD2MG7sM/s320/20230824_120757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzy9XIosNTIU1VhEs5NMhChcbMlGr6letY3klZIfvR43w1aTl0bfBGbXWAjqE40Iv8rJs9uRHorB9_mt6IlJeFqJWFogIy6Sswey9anc0bEqZWKWYFfkcJEkK53OR4XKqajA-NFJSSwjcERLyp1RkaZgk1nub5uTF3dgk41793m3wN9L1G1T1FOOOiY0/s1209/20230824_120809.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzy9XIosNTIU1VhEs5NMhChcbMlGr6letY3klZIfvR43w1aTl0bfBGbXWAjqE40Iv8rJs9uRHorB9_mt6IlJeFqJWFogIy6Sswey9anc0bEqZWKWYFfkcJEkK53OR4XKqajA-NFJSSwjcERLyp1RkaZgk1nub5uTF3dgk41793m3wN9L1G1T1FOOOiY0/s320/20230824_120809.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvoo6aUKt0UPkO_GxDTo6aaKB7bHURPSchVwaFO8dHWYbdE37Z48vlv92hJ53FM8VE6JXDlGYR783SoA_Yzf18s8sZQwiYtIGVNqCrRSEa7gpGP3FjUD8ptKmlGinR4Hr61KP-j_bHWE9EyWAezQwmSs7cq11dTDE050kluYh3RRP3d8bs3SCz12PJ_58/s1209/20230824_121451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvoo6aUKt0UPkO_GxDTo6aaKB7bHURPSchVwaFO8dHWYbdE37Z48vlv92hJ53FM8VE6JXDlGYR783SoA_Yzf18s8sZQwiYtIGVNqCrRSEa7gpGP3FjUD8ptKmlGinR4Hr61KP-j_bHWE9EyWAezQwmSs7cq11dTDE050kluYh3RRP3d8bs3SCz12PJ_58/s320/20230824_121451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFzQwN_Iuutbn5lpD-wB2wwsk5zua2S42Xhg9aXgcfOXVeHgR5-jaHmFFky_zJZm1ks28TxPtwVbXroZm23Zv5DTWDm7A34deTYEjxT2Lr87gIFrSKHNZ_7MzkmHKoftBfyFT1AgnyFapYs1IUdKz4LPu-v_8lHHH-QnS4Yug2uSxahCs0O01VWpWfYW8/s320/20230824_121858.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmzMLkPzuPCI4t8ngllNkukH3ijlO29HjeNrG2RvSWKjBPRPGDRnFzJs1PjyS5FbykovujjgcN2amdSJsETO8E-6K_eaWp6Ws5D6-P0GvwdYuOwE6gNIgX6PoMbmQfYn_EEt1Wktbkl8UOxzOBTN2U6ECr3KS6SIHjH2QzqbmJFzwu5w33WWAI-NTCuY/s1209/20230824_121903.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmzMLkPzuPCI4t8ngllNkukH3ijlO29HjeNrG2RvSWKjBPRPGDRnFzJs1PjyS5FbykovujjgcN2amdSJsETO8E-6K_eaWp6Ws5D6-P0GvwdYuOwE6gNIgX6PoMbmQfYn_EEt1Wktbkl8UOxzOBTN2U6ECr3KS6SIHjH2QzqbmJFzwu5w33WWAI-NTCuY/s320/20230824_121903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj25kwMufbjIWYnJSsW0bD37N33eJ92y1Aqe-HBZcfxgrS3qc2gwcWMdunZaaKXJo6KcNJCwNrKQAClRhqJvDvx30K3bOiahgQfV3qTFR9cHz8VDPPwTjETnYxFEwozCJZxvmAAAihEe5dQ-qrHIrPyrIYP7La6J782OOl1cGBYEhLK4GiMjytjROlIP_Q/s1209/20230824_124935.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj25kwMufbjIWYnJSsW0bD37N33eJ92y1Aqe-HBZcfxgrS3qc2gwcWMdunZaaKXJo6KcNJCwNrKQAClRhqJvDvx30K3bOiahgQfV3qTFR9cHz8VDPPwTjETnYxFEwozCJZxvmAAAihEe5dQ-qrHIrPyrIYP7La6J782OOl1cGBYEhLK4GiMjytjROlIP_Q/s320/20230824_124935.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC-rH7ShJDe-OCd29LBwxkYMpG2vSYKwC-7FvbZPQsBoC1MlPh_TX3wzUmxTz-s40oJutjVRmDnSlMSUDAaKmXn7XGbINkPAGkgjc9RzYZ56rKQdWT_36W6AkBe0HDJqID3ypodx4SAF-BxXY5mVmabOBUqDgxrji7WNYTz99LRX_XRDMNB5BKvBnJGfM/s1209/20230824_124938(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC-rH7ShJDe-OCd29LBwxkYMpG2vSYKwC-7FvbZPQsBoC1MlPh_TX3wzUmxTz-s40oJutjVRmDnSlMSUDAaKmXn7XGbINkPAGkgjc9RzYZ56rKQdWT_36W6AkBe0HDJqID3ypodx4SAF-BxXY5mVmabOBUqDgxrji7WNYTz99LRX_XRDMNB5BKvBnJGfM/s320/20230824_124938(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmzvwGLP9glq8V3Vhwc1wLgKQINiLHBTk4rzo25dF65nnH1OmvQoH2oiYIju7R3PBJZIKpb9H77f7NiIAIjnfLWctV1nIfckw3UQffn2ytrWLy9YN2IW3oQynkzTg7ah0DnzKhLWEWzBy0acFhEm70y69a1DgtgM32hDt67K0kqGTQtpLa-Lj9mQNFrE/s1209/20230824_125001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmzvwGLP9glq8V3Vhwc1wLgKQINiLHBTk4rzo25dF65nnH1OmvQoH2oiYIju7R3PBJZIKpb9H77f7NiIAIjnfLWctV1nIfckw3UQffn2ytrWLy9YN2IW3oQynkzTg7ah0DnzKhLWEWzBy0acFhEm70y69a1DgtgM32hDt67K0kqGTQtpLa-Lj9mQNFrE/s320/20230824_125001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXED8ihOF4D5AbIaK5idWu9uonA8bloQuPXedMkcOPCOxF1s-I_I4uPUV4BrGFZiRJQG_ydjkZjJddQd9TZtEhYFVW9nDyusfNkRI802UZY-TdhsSIDwUxA2jhT6H1jVdQFUPY2KhSnQsjq0aVkJ7EQpKSGMNxozPKAVsgtcLMF3v6Az0Zbolbz5ruOTI/s1209/20230824_125006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXED8ihOF4D5AbIaK5idWu9uonA8bloQuPXedMkcOPCOxF1s-I_I4uPUV4BrGFZiRJQG_ydjkZjJddQd9TZtEhYFVW9nDyusfNkRI802UZY-TdhsSIDwUxA2jhT6H1jVdQFUPY2KhSnQsjq0aVkJ7EQpKSGMNxozPKAVsgtcLMF3v6Az0Zbolbz5ruOTI/s320/20230824_125006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_KBHxv59Sav9OSSewmkA-7zdoq-xO8hebNDV97PK9Wn6pYC4pCetCE69P8htd0mtBXZfvNs2z026SW7sLOgRPhkKeqNphjPgswIppnOYzsIfLrnyWCccBfnlG3_PUXblOdgU59oDXIGbO-aSBN8wVaRutq3TXiFtr8U-PvElB-9hh4wLzm24nb6V91k/s1209/20230824_125009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_KBHxv59Sav9OSSewmkA-7zdoq-xO8hebNDV97PK9Wn6pYC4pCetCE69P8htd0mtBXZfvNs2z026SW7sLOgRPhkKeqNphjPgswIppnOYzsIfLrnyWCccBfnlG3_PUXblOdgU59oDXIGbO-aSBN8wVaRutq3TXiFtr8U-PvElB-9hh4wLzm24nb6V91k/s320/20230824_125009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-Y7bGw17OlO7xst8i7W0XUeF5iBc9q1CMIwvhtKk29_D2BDlA0lh1p1I_OLreNp88JzdeiiWn4DS32Ja32YXI2k8DBeydMoWUE5LlJSwIedE2LqUCn5LzqnQQHti_a9At6DFxlMoWPRisGOPlXLbv6lIbf7PPsCurrRZg1PqBUpHyfkYpyIyZvwlgTI/s1209/20230824_125012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-Y7bGw17OlO7xst8i7W0XUeF5iBc9q1CMIwvhtKk29_D2BDlA0lh1p1I_OLreNp88JzdeiiWn4DS32Ja32YXI2k8DBeydMoWUE5LlJSwIedE2LqUCn5LzqnQQHti_a9At6DFxlMoWPRisGOPlXLbv6lIbf7PPsCurrRZg1PqBUpHyfkYpyIyZvwlgTI/s320/20230824_125012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjACf4uxOlhkH72YmK1HTp15UiqHox8v6zH_HoGkZoBMTyDUeUdcZQglUFQnKyNKTJivpspbEC3wZoo668CeGeIDpo5ntamN4g2ulR8OI-NGtmxyi7zLed-uJlyeAJ87dy1zUBVC_XcD0qkQmJ5e-iZsT8ZoYcYGA45X8RXSiaJffD72MlEqR2j9YYrGIg/s1209/20230824_125755.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjACf4uxOlhkH72YmK1HTp15UiqHox8v6zH_HoGkZoBMTyDUeUdcZQglUFQnKyNKTJivpspbEC3wZoo668CeGeIDpo5ntamN4g2ulR8OI-NGtmxyi7zLed-uJlyeAJ87dy1zUBVC_XcD0qkQmJ5e-iZsT8ZoYcYGA45X8RXSiaJffD72MlEqR2j9YYrGIg/s320/20230824_125755.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dopo le ultime salite, altrettante discese e letti sabbiosi di fiumi, ecco che inizia a intravedersi la piana costiera; le alture digradano lentamente e davanti a noi torna visibile il mare, preceduto da una fitta serie di agglomerati urbani, qui sì concentrati e vicini.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3QkS6Gcj8RYUu37-o4sxblqKEoACfjy8vmW-ZzRJQS9g1TQi6PTI4KulcuvIaoXp3yMO30_cG4nHprUCnSCsPaLtcQR1sLTNiNzsAzOyNc1aybyHtD0DjCXAZyskK9HGYtG2qIpNFRKoqAFoABedclOqpAdHjWdc0CwncnLaRJQFkguxAR48csB0ULk/s1209/20230824_130212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3QkS6Gcj8RYUu37-o4sxblqKEoACfjy8vmW-ZzRJQS9g1TQi6PTI4KulcuvIaoXp3yMO30_cG4nHprUCnSCsPaLtcQR1sLTNiNzsAzOyNc1aybyHtD0DjCXAZyskK9HGYtG2qIpNFRKoqAFoABedclOqpAdHjWdc0CwncnLaRJQFkguxAR48csB0ULk/s320/20230824_130212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLwPnKluIKO_6ic_0zFUnBbrbfxZjeGcxstYatYkQ16K9R5Pk6jiyqdGH4tqd5yzBNDoaiX5RUcgnK6fLi6Rh3HQ8kSdmCCUlZyUR_gJs0FRdxjLKnEBtNciEOTntaxRgteWqGIMeHaIo7MklBZHqLHHvX_TXNTq5F1jHBqTKRo7iKsTVlTmBeG26Zr0/s1209/20230824_130224.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimLwPnKluIKO_6ic_0zFUnBbrbfxZjeGcxstYatYkQ16K9R5Pk6jiyqdGH4tqd5yzBNDoaiX5RUcgnK6fLi6Rh3HQ8kSdmCCUlZyUR_gJs0FRdxjLKnEBtNciEOTntaxRgteWqGIMeHaIo7MklBZHqLHHvX_TXNTq5F1jHBqTKRo7iKsTVlTmBeG26Zr0/s320/20230824_130224.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqR2rJqFZC6yKf6z9Lgop_XMUcmXQWYWMR8_nKw64P2OJC4Xq73u5u4-XQVhlS7P0hH_SANHlnjM-GlnjUnkRo3lBMWYAaQB7q3n6McSuEWkyHuMPtnvvw94c2sd9Ia43GPuYxUusL7dD02xzm0FJ9ETFAdoJLYz-Xe38pj9w7GAgjvFYfIxUaOX-0_U/s1209/20230824_130702.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqR2rJqFZC6yKf6z9Lgop_XMUcmXQWYWMR8_nKw64P2OJC4Xq73u5u4-XQVhlS7P0hH_SANHlnjM-GlnjUnkRo3lBMWYAaQB7q3n6McSuEWkyHuMPtnvvw94c2sd9Ia43GPuYxUusL7dD02xzm0FJ9ETFAdoJLYz-Xe38pj9w7GAgjvFYfIxUaOX-0_U/s320/20230824_130702.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9pJ1qFWYJmNhJoRB7hshmmAQ24hKrn0TH5WPDl5o3ZeJE4kyd8dP4m7t4BHrAqRE56R9V1zhMoB-fmJ-AVn7X4FQ4x9uLas6e8dbTxsbfiDqNw9zwTEqkLBLKPDHI-RKN2n7Wm0JYWyaxpqe5QPReBmpJVLGfpo8XoxAqjnIVM7OxnEqzW8vzgIfPyMk/s1209/20230824_130706.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9pJ1qFWYJmNhJoRB7hshmmAQ24hKrn0TH5WPDl5o3ZeJE4kyd8dP4m7t4BHrAqRE56R9V1zhMoB-fmJ-AVn7X4FQ4x9uLas6e8dbTxsbfiDqNw9zwTEqkLBLKPDHI-RKN2n7Wm0JYWyaxpqe5QPReBmpJVLGfpo8XoxAqjnIVM7OxnEqzW8vzgIfPyMk/s320/20230824_130706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dal primo paese, Santa Anita, fino all'arrivo a San José del Cabo, la strada si fa trafficata, caotica e pericolosa per le manovre improvvise e imprevedibili dei guidatori, spesso a bordo di furgoni scassati o motorini arrugginiti. Inoltre le corsie sono spesso coperte di sabbia a mucchi. Pedalarci sopra senza sbandare è una fatica infernale. Per cui spesso preferiamo buttarci in mezzo alle auto e sperare che nessuno ci investa. Sudati e appiccicosi come siamo, ci paniamo di sabbia, che viene sollevata dai mezzi pesanti, e ci troviamo granelli ovunque, tra i denti, negli occhi, nelle orecchie e nelle abrasioni sulle gambe. Ma possibile che non si possano tenere pulite queste strade? Va bene a tutti così?</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKF1phj1tG3xLpb3pLkS6_-1Ug4esjSSO5LseWHr4n5it1VPO7zYEEl322q2QIaW2BXjGIvAynrKY14eARjXDWChbPMT_BEuDZy0L8nTPEpH9xbQC7bFeL181RvPA7Xm8x_MmDnkL8TQS9VafFHAgHvHkNXroSm5EVdiKTjEJIA1HUbMx6x705TUxS2ME/s1209/20230824_133154.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKF1phj1tG3xLpb3pLkS6_-1Ug4esjSSO5LseWHr4n5it1VPO7zYEEl322q2QIaW2BXjGIvAynrKY14eARjXDWChbPMT_BEuDZy0L8nTPEpH9xbQC7bFeL181RvPA7Xm8x_MmDnkL8TQS9VafFHAgHvHkNXroSm5EVdiKTjEJIA1HUbMx6x705TUxS2ME/s320/20230824_133154.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji5EWQT2sm_l8S7oTpoTp9csH3t2xAL882KzLfTx6FRB_-2Oud4y9bDrQMfBR4-qV0fJ2eSIerHoVRriMN9_mOUqsGd23mmDCO8Mxe6eXXCniZJIJOqCS2v8z6ZoCpkJcopvVwveQHD7fO-P2kBk-bMRpxNib1jwSRYGdLgoqVbPPEiRf-kQ3y4waKDvc/s1209/20230824_133219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji5EWQT2sm_l8S7oTpoTp9csH3t2xAL882KzLfTx6FRB_-2Oud4y9bDrQMfBR4-qV0fJ2eSIerHoVRriMN9_mOUqsGd23mmDCO8Mxe6eXXCniZJIJOqCS2v8z6ZoCpkJcopvVwveQHD7fO-P2kBk-bMRpxNib1jwSRYGdLgoqVbPPEiRf-kQ3y4waKDvc/s320/20230824_133219.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFJ5buqASRUy2ljVOVtbkP2Wa93oxmA9ikE9dfsNKBiKu2xVYAq7ZMR5d7ACt13Z8Mi1vSDb147dQnr6aRG637nQmOUlIT5m-wMjhsvOOWET3s730yPcu_rPqf6bpWSIz-_UW1a_BlGma5R-1i5M4pUhf9cdKDp1o61-o8zBoHpynjhiLsJb-EpG5zkg/s1209/20230824_133227.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFJ5buqASRUy2ljVOVtbkP2Wa93oxmA9ikE9dfsNKBiKu2xVYAq7ZMR5d7ACt13Z8Mi1vSDb147dQnr6aRG637nQmOUlIT5m-wMjhsvOOWET3s730yPcu_rPqf6bpWSIz-_UW1a_BlGma5R-1i5M4pUhf9cdKDp1o61-o8zBoHpynjhiLsJb-EpG5zkg/s320/20230824_133227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDfvBor6eKCAtUt-VeGE2GMqBmKm_fZKVTNSwpvuF2ks0aRwvNaviJbi9toGiJkiEfO4rjU2QOK-EeDaCETX1AVWmci3CXM9YxSitLBqr4Ef6RjWsJpOfWGbQKSCbb5Niyi8fXHleXZsjAkMnDHRgNdTopzdCHX_GUvShdKioznZpV6TWeTI797TNkDg/s1209/20230824_133707.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDfvBor6eKCAtUt-VeGE2GMqBmKm_fZKVTNSwpvuF2ks0aRwvNaviJbi9toGiJkiEfO4rjU2QOK-EeDaCETX1AVWmci3CXM9YxSitLBqr4Ef6RjWsJpOfWGbQKSCbb5Niyi8fXHleXZsjAkMnDHRgNdTopzdCHX_GUvShdKioznZpV6TWeTI797TNkDg/s320/20230824_133707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsfPkCYSZ2ZpZAtctxrQ-UHPhMLPYDjDGfAnprL3s4KRk_FY023UYEsAx-llOcAaChC3jxOGQuze0ezxwL30IK-gABq_RNKq4A3Ld6DN14miuJane-rEc2pwxFZO1Z0s5qdsDvKExvqZXo_sVheHr2U1ZmMVrxWUGfKu0DDXtak-m9e3KXQDTnhwFNwO4/s1209/20230824_145244.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsfPkCYSZ2ZpZAtctxrQ-UHPhMLPYDjDGfAnprL3s4KRk_FY023UYEsAx-llOcAaChC3jxOGQuze0ezxwL30IK-gABq_RNKq4A3Ld6DN14miuJane-rEc2pwxFZO1Z0s5qdsDvKExvqZXo_sVheHr2U1ZmMVrxWUGfKu0DDXtak-m9e3KXQDTnhwFNwO4/s320/20230824_145244.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_osbmcnLJfoq7NndZbsjtWOLDZvEZmcNTo-e38YdUlFh3vdv02GaVKonPjdJgfjFBM-_jvz_32lz7LXiBVaQIL8mu7_J_QQ_CSrBOeXfXMyXJ3-9RnrWYIzR7al5727BP3SmCxuuGLnPqRm6b-a-5-QWqwVCxX5ZwXyVmhD38YJWpDV5InZsekn1P30/s1209/20230824_145250.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_osbmcnLJfoq7NndZbsjtWOLDZvEZmcNTo-e38YdUlFh3vdv02GaVKonPjdJgfjFBM-_jvz_32lz7LXiBVaQIL8mu7_J_QQ_CSrBOeXfXMyXJ3-9RnrWYIzR7al5727BP3SmCxuuGLnPqRm6b-a-5-QWqwVCxX5ZwXyVmhD38YJWpDV5InZsekn1P30/s320/20230824_145250.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Anche questa volta riusciamo ad uscirne illesi, in qualche modo, e ad attraversare le cittadine e pure il centro storico di San José. Ho prenotato una camera presso la Posada Señor Mañana, che ha un nome fantastico e un prezzo ancor migliore. Il posto è spettacolare. Roncio il giusto, alternativo un tot, un covo di surfisti e hippie, a partire dal proprietario, che parla un curioso mix di inglese e spagnolo. Ci dice che spesso passano qui cicloturisti, ma sempre d'inverno, e di notte, con le luci, perchè ora è da pazzi, fa troppo caldo. Dice che di notte non è pericoloso, non ci sono i bandidos, sono leggende metropolitane. Bisogna però stare attenti agli animali, ai burros, ai caballos, che sentono l'asfalto fresco e si stendono a dormire in mezzo alla strada. Se li investi ti fai male tu! E' un fiume in piena, il Signor Mattina (o Signor Domani?). Ci dà la stanza ma non il resto (che, dopo 8 ore, sto ancora aspettando. Immagino torni mañana), e ci mostra gli ambienti comuni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiS6wJ2EFvoYV9HmJKuUR2CETsYw0VK67_5uvsO4HOwgtjXAhvIxpiKiQ-9RDsPJgP7XbO1jbfPb1SYDKGkcRNF5jC8S8CFlnEQMSvHC_mXHncF0npKv-veEn7jWDRaLWUA-Jonq3UwsuTWiXk2sbw08f9q8h4oP1ser6q18zAb11ZJCp2HBfiuCs_kqY/s1209/20230824_152511.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiS6wJ2EFvoYV9HmJKuUR2CETsYw0VK67_5uvsO4HOwgtjXAhvIxpiKiQ-9RDsPJgP7XbO1jbfPb1SYDKGkcRNF5jC8S8CFlnEQMSvHC_mXHncF0npKv-veEn7jWDRaLWUA-Jonq3UwsuTWiXk2sbw08f9q8h4oP1ser6q18zAb11ZJCp2HBfiuCs_kqY/s320/20230824_152511.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1NSXW0rr2cs2BRg3F7Rt7-pze5Z875CqcAEjmq301gnwSHP-vAqGWWjmouRVT-DZjwAgZjvDFT0wDNmNKvekWh9--Khh4Bc2CPFnMOhYX7jIFfaFdgk4Y1TEOrxQawPAj7DCohCAkQYuJYoTE1enkOXgpdTFFMYaqZ4FKTFZHnyNnwU854xKLvRBqik/s1209/20230824_152919.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1NSXW0rr2cs2BRg3F7Rt7-pze5Z875CqcAEjmq301gnwSHP-vAqGWWjmouRVT-DZjwAgZjvDFT0wDNmNKvekWh9--Khh4Bc2CPFnMOhYX7jIFfaFdgk4Y1TEOrxQawPAj7DCohCAkQYuJYoTE1enkOXgpdTFFMYaqZ4FKTFZHnyNnwU854xKLvRBqik/s320/20230824_152919.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpdwej0I7w4KsZEcCJw9zPH6pd3wmVyTayAVTq1Wbg7wDPmwhzEjD7adYcPtXELZSwUh5Zdz_lWbutTRN8mX0HSLrNfr96vFjpGt-eUG_-Mmw0kPD9xVXn2sZe54Ert1oFRzhjIsyPKaMeObXQDa3bVLk6uSO06svtohx7j9AZmj0QbqGjFRXMaaPdXEU/s1209/20230824_152925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpdwej0I7w4KsZEcCJw9zPH6pd3wmVyTayAVTq1Wbg7wDPmwhzEjD7adYcPtXELZSwUh5Zdz_lWbutTRN8mX0HSLrNfr96vFjpGt-eUG_-Mmw0kPD9xVXn2sZe54Ert1oFRzhjIsyPKaMeObXQDa3bVLk6uSO06svtohx7j9AZmj0QbqGjFRXMaaPdXEU/s320/20230824_152925.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WQcgKmLrnSgUjJxAw3HAgmQhk5gxcAP6bjx-CxIUYckcCPxNREwiU8zE9A9KtfbH3iBalaacmSOg2DC8krnIO9iEP_Udkxa6QkNtpTARYuoeEQ4HkSnOumAJc-usx0GbvctKdbCfS7Vkjl_8y4-bXa3dpY_lhXdGGsUmXqMHpvZrwpAMMGLYYFW9vKo/s1209/20230824_152940.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WQcgKmLrnSgUjJxAw3HAgmQhk5gxcAP6bjx-CxIUYckcCPxNREwiU8zE9A9KtfbH3iBalaacmSOg2DC8krnIO9iEP_Udkxa6QkNtpTARYuoeEQ4HkSnOumAJc-usx0GbvctKdbCfS7Vkjl_8y4-bXa3dpY_lhXdGGsUmXqMHpvZrwpAMMGLYYFW9vKo/s320/20230824_152940.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhrfsBJNMHFzykXetMqpRtL0ugRsBAVaoyxwZh1qk_fQAR-GbwOs_4pVAK9t_CWRXeBfEM8g1RRbYSsAL7KDAFh_hGw6G4wKvUFAioyXgeJ_UKYd_kUoECScbSekIRWd3aajLrErO_n-06Neti8GVpmg35G1HnbE6j5cIOpao2j5h7gCAvVXS48ozqLE/s1209/20230824_152953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWhrfsBJNMHFzykXetMqpRtL0ugRsBAVaoyxwZh1qk_fQAR-GbwOs_4pVAK9t_CWRXeBfEM8g1RRbYSsAL7KDAFh_hGw6G4wKvUFAioyXgeJ_UKYd_kUoECScbSekIRWd3aajLrErO_n-06Neti8GVpmg35G1HnbE6j5cIOpao2j5h7gCAvVXS48ozqLE/s320/20230824_152953.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhly3TPlWnb5mtHvL5xzKSTM9w7y6mwGGm7uFCvqlHEq6GXwPZZKHDlQNskOo2LlwXujbTCaDX2QD_o8OkPt7VaUHzQcveCDNJCHCmEMq2HPhdr_oxYto3n2lhCWKfszJy23AoE5ZkW-5nGGimrZqdDJt1P-IlM-75Fh7awEEP_CD5jrjyE6-nL7w5xRXs/s1209/20230824_153011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhly3TPlWnb5mtHvL5xzKSTM9w7y6mwGGm7uFCvqlHEq6GXwPZZKHDlQNskOo2LlwXujbTCaDX2QD_o8OkPt7VaUHzQcveCDNJCHCmEMq2HPhdr_oxYto3n2lhCWKfszJy23AoE5ZkW-5nGGimrZqdDJt1P-IlM-75Fh7awEEP_CD5jrjyE6-nL7w5xRXs/s320/20230824_153011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQht6fQVulzrKSWM0MfsVbKu7k-KTEnwVbA_vMCS9UETPx_ygXx2Bk_Lk0ruG_nN46QV5HiCluVXWCxWKJ5HqXwtcYCRuDgTFcMtJZr64hADRoYpa2sCtu_4pSwwtgHAvwB-hNqHhUZM31n8rtZ5ngM-JK5Nn9Pfm26p8vKQ1dgIDyLZHOsWAx918CAa0/s979/20230824_154754.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQht6fQVulzrKSWM0MfsVbKu7k-KTEnwVbA_vMCS9UETPx_ygXx2Bk_Lk0ruG_nN46QV5HiCluVXWCxWKJ5HqXwtcYCRuDgTFcMtJZr64hADRoYpa2sCtu_4pSwwtgHAvwB-hNqHhUZM31n8rtZ5ngM-JK5Nn9Pfm26p8vKQ1dgIDyLZHOsWAx918CAa0/s320/20230824_154754.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la camera sembra la cuccetta del capitano di una nave!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Il progetto è quello di riposare un poco, girare il centro (a un minuto a piedi) e poi raggiungere la spiaggia, che dista un paio di kilometri. Purtroppo i piani saltano perchè crollo in un sonno comatoso che mi porta via fino quasi al tramonto. In effetti, inizio a essere un po' stanchina anch'io. Quindi lasciamo perdere il mare (ci rifaremo nei prossimi giorni) e optiamo per una visita del centro storico, dove, per altro, è in corso il cosiddetto tianguis (mercato all'aperto) cultural, anche detto art walk perchè i gringos fanno fatica a pronunciare le parole che vengono di là dal muro. E' una manifestazione che si tiene ogni giovedì sera nella piazza principale, e vede artisti, musicisti, pittori, scultori, produttori locali e artigiani esporre le proprie creazioni ad un pubblico composto per lo più da turisti statunitensi, pronti a spendere per qualsiasi cazzata venga loro venduta bene, figuriamoci quando i prodotti sono pure di qualità, come in questo caso.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmqEHKy3cntvY0VfjYUzCQMbrDYvg5ZovhccyobjHGrvq7WdBd1K0gwiZ1FPPeY7bJi6mwT9NVPrAsbAYHRotcLQgFHZx2Q_Yk0DQwA-Ku-ok7SEk_2euq7YW6HsAR5P9Y7Z_v9V1_1Laf15KbPsRV9CdM_ggRNXBI6aP0ijqpdMPZFpagAJnabISgKw/s1209/20230824_182756.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmqEHKy3cntvY0VfjYUzCQMbrDYvg5ZovhccyobjHGrvq7WdBd1K0gwiZ1FPPeY7bJi6mwT9NVPrAsbAYHRotcLQgFHZx2Q_Yk0DQwA-Ku-ok7SEk_2euq7YW6HsAR5P9Y7Z_v9V1_1Laf15KbPsRV9CdM_ggRNXBI6aP0ijqpdMPZFpagAJnabISgKw/s320/20230824_182756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VJw2QVx56RlCMNbKGi0TSjexCfoDS11cBNqTaN6ZW2CimrfCO7lK9Ld30wNNyIAg-CCDyNs4YCCJD12sVJHGFVqKH3WPv_WMNfMOf07Ol8yvxmHHJZFM6bp9B7Cs_Ywhbqn6m26tsq39VKKgG2S8ksv1JZ_PpH5T1h8PP1eDk_yIOTnZUUqOjHk5AO8/s1209/20230824_182805.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VJw2QVx56RlCMNbKGi0TSjexCfoDS11cBNqTaN6ZW2CimrfCO7lK9Ld30wNNyIAg-CCDyNs4YCCJD12sVJHGFVqKH3WPv_WMNfMOf07Ol8yvxmHHJZFM6bp9B7Cs_Ywhbqn6m26tsq39VKKgG2S8ksv1JZ_PpH5T1h8PP1eDk_yIOTnZUUqOjHk5AO8/s320/20230824_182805.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQL8tRr1fgga1DtqenvOtNK6pNKk8yHrEKAUi6bPvsHm9ekTpr-Vo_adXmHbg3T0CgShByZXcW8oiJRBmWNvIFd1_R8qFRNGPZpRRLFh_Mxe-aLYyz4nrziTiVH0pj0S1GnkpevV2qwwmp0TDPgqdb6hMnqvxbe3jnCmU0nzoQYSnhfVn7jWEtjfNpRuo/s1209/20230824_182812.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW39g6PVZcZZL5e4IH58KFmjAsWPP-3D3Hj1fkHxrbFU9YCb3YWqYPFvcIN5ER4kzIdOkjGEMhMX0HgR6MZeHaV_PDDN2BEuf88OIr17SajQcVVMSsHbIBDa6-OYp5JklEP5Wa5tSsup20XX_poEF3d-VoQMSwDLEDArSPIfbw1HB1Xf-OBlWf_buuYck/s320/20230824_183218.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGeEPRmeZe17kjefkWmuItlro9wZs9wvlhhLN2hdNkP04qnhoUh00jxKhSGnSdxvvqCFPM_wouyqU-WFaUTSSVLYIaGXqQCBmU1Xc8Nfx_qnhceoOQxemuJqpU3csmk_YN51OU1YivDEBR9mpcsAqLmpY7TZt_r9mRIUj2Mdt08rsn_eRhI3NQW59Acck/s1209/20230824_183326.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGeEPRmeZe17kjefkWmuItlro9wZs9wvlhhLN2hdNkP04qnhoUh00jxKhSGnSdxvvqCFPM_wouyqU-WFaUTSSVLYIaGXqQCBmU1Xc8Nfx_qnhceoOQxemuJqpU3csmk_YN51OU1YivDEBR9mpcsAqLmpY7TZt_r9mRIUj2Mdt08rsn_eRhI3NQW59Acck/s320/20230824_183326.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Tutto attorno non mancano gli ambulantes dello street food, che qui gonfiano i prezzi e accettano i dollari, come la gran parte delle strutture e dei negozi. Anzi, chi paga in dollari riceve un discreto sconto. Tutti contro i gringos, ma quando i camarones aprono il portafogli allora son sorrisi e ossequi, eh?</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A differenza delle altre cittadine finora viste qui in Baja, San José ha una storia antica e complessa che ha lasciato traccia nell'architettura e nelle pietre delle vie e delle piazze. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In queste zone, com3 già detto, vivevano tribù native, ma la città assunse importanza nel XVI secolo grazie alle spedizioni di Vizcaino, e come approdo sicuro per i galeoni che da Manila attraversavano il Pacifico verso i porti della Nuova Spagna, Acapulco in primis. Qui equipaggi e merci erano al sicuro dai pirati, che spesso attaccavano le navi mercantili, e, per di più, c'era una fonte di acqua dolce, bene tanto raro e prezioso per chi viveva mesi e mesi circondato dall'oceano sterile e salato. Nel 1730, poi, il gesuita Tamaral ebbe l'ideona di fondare qui una missione, proprio nell'attuale centro storico di San José. I pericùes, tribù locale poi scomparsa nel giro di qualche decennio, non la presero benissimo: organizzarono una ribellione armata, e, nel 1734, a distanza di pochi giorni, ammazzarono ben due gesuiti fondatori di missioni. Il martirio, perchè tale fu considerato, consistette nell'essere legati e trascinati come sacchi di patate, infilzati con frecce e poi fatti a pezzi con un coltellaccio. Oggi, dove sorgeva la missione, c'è una chiesa in stile coloniale, che affaccia proprio sulla piazza centrale. Sulla facciata è rappresentata con dovizia la brutta fine di Tamaral, mentre i turisti 'merricani ignari si fanno selfie in posa davanti al luogo del supplizio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aSBr6tV0oL8moBVrYLk4rn2N8vaVmz_J-c-MUxD_V7wsP9f04EqZx5UAPySZiqkyPM5T-Of2uKOGwAbZp5DGKmCt9_dV27KlzTu-vRZm0LI6bJNMgGtr3DaKF6KtZjh2cUJGpd0PfjmjpL2XsncPLw-apIyodKtbTW8hETZnpqJjYDpEgvJUh-IR_Q4/s1209/20230824_183405.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aSBr6tV0oL8moBVrYLk4rn2N8vaVmz_J-c-MUxD_V7wsP9f04EqZx5UAPySZiqkyPM5T-Of2uKOGwAbZp5DGKmCt9_dV27KlzTu-vRZm0LI6bJNMgGtr3DaKF6KtZjh2cUJGpd0PfjmjpL2XsncPLw-apIyodKtbTW8hETZnpqJjYDpEgvJUh-IR_Q4/s320/20230824_183405.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheNbktb9KgetToU60jwfc_Jh_eBAOayr11I4AZLu_Y2ZboQ7Pcwwma8h74lGRAtk__FKwtrZd-KJWUur-rytRNDz2h5U8Wqflz2EgO5ZK_xYr1Px0Or7X-ALsy93oPyW4Bh15f-MMR5mdYhbSm8J0IFfH2gtHikIjBdIMzKhzPh1SY80v6OaLOBNp3JEI/s320/20230824_183841.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFhKa0XvDyxyNxbCLRjDPH55hfkMzQVxycdMtwV3nyFqsMAXgNxLGBNI1R0bzp3ay1IMK7tvrl4gihn7Cu5SSso95jXaUrAGuOeA77Q5I59MfcTvONaKLmmrrdfh8sBzM21yP6RNNnMIdaYRfs1JuCP4SydzQdpspdgnw2kYf6MMjF1GClwQAI_bEDas/s1209/20230824_183916.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFhKa0XvDyxyNxbCLRjDPH55hfkMzQVxycdMtwV3nyFqsMAXgNxLGBNI1R0bzp3ay1IMK7tvrl4gihn7Cu5SSso95jXaUrAGuOeA77Q5I59MfcTvONaKLmmrrdfh8sBzM21yP6RNNnMIdaYRfs1JuCP4SydzQdpspdgnw2kYf6MMjF1GClwQAI_bEDas/s320/20230824_183916.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi_eTCn24Y7Xcx5xnml89S8Dymq4HbBIy2HQhT3aH4Vx2ZPtR4zVIAi0eFBphost-8AoUc7qyjfuz-jFqQmUZcFeuDspgiS2GTVXKM_9lC3s5VgASU8_OTmKrnS_y6StkM32c-zHd8x8Ik4NiLT_k2PoBQrwx3KaGlovAX_f33TYfyKqlHnH_l39edl6s/s1209/20230824_183925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi_eTCn24Y7Xcx5xnml89S8Dymq4HbBIy2HQhT3aH4Vx2ZPtR4zVIAi0eFBphost-8AoUc7qyjfuz-jFqQmUZcFeuDspgiS2GTVXKM_9lC3s5VgASU8_OTmKrnS_y6StkM32c-zHd8x8Ik4NiLT_k2PoBQrwx3KaGlovAX_f33TYfyKqlHnH_l39edl6s/s320/20230824_183925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxZ6AVzFGE5lRSd50Vc8htgDTL1TKnpqCsRcQTTdAENfE9yqSVVH9S54CQPT_Q41avIPrM7NPGLe7lN7mnH5rCBCEIX0JdvuAyhSMa-RH_-IL6vzYfjNhB8n2dJ51pYP92pBmS6cTIOX60Ii6hhYz1Zxdf6zrNmJFYKYv7zPALhYBAqwhIqwuGKIVKYk/s1209/20230824_183945.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxZ6AVzFGE5lRSd50Vc8htgDTL1TKnpqCsRcQTTdAENfE9yqSVVH9S54CQPT_Q41avIPrM7NPGLe7lN7mnH5rCBCEIX0JdvuAyhSMa-RH_-IL6vzYfjNhB8n2dJ51pYP92pBmS6cTIOX60Ii6hhYz1Zxdf6zrNmJFYKYv7zPALhYBAqwhIqwuGKIVKYk/s320/20230824_183945.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Noi proseguiamo la passeggiata tra stand, bancarelle e lucine che si accendono nel crepuscolo violetto. L'atmosfera è molto piacevole, per quanto turistica e vagamente artefatta. Questo è il Messico plasmato a misura di gamberone, patinato, costruito a immagine e somiglianza dei depliant delle agenzie di viaggio. Ci sono tutti gli stereotipi, tutto ciò che uno straniero si aspetta di trovare, dalla calavera de azucar ai mariachi che cantano Cielito lindo, dai festoni colorati alle maracas. Il Messico è altrove e ne abbiamo visto tanto, in questo viaggio. Ma, onestamente, non è spiacevole mescolarsi ai vacanzieri di bassa stagione e seguire quest'onda, senza più pensare, per un attimo, ai drammi antichi e recenti, al colonialismo proteiforme, a questo mondo che abbiamo reso marcescente e tossico, inquinato nell'ambiente e nella società. Solo per un attimo. Non pensare.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7dTEADNR3Nh7StgpdIrMSS-n3PZTh83_6OBvwf49kMonRhN9AadEwW1PL63COkh8hFssekhwy70-AQd7SvuPnZnFR58Cw9rVOdIwxg1rV328jbTkxxT24D1f5MtH__H0ND8-b3m1yrgmCmRBIBSc2-Rvpj9QrPrvxauHgy9aJVUM21ZiPUCL1QtkWoU/s1209/20230824_184144.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7dTEADNR3Nh7StgpdIrMSS-n3PZTh83_6OBvwf49kMonRhN9AadEwW1PL63COkh8hFssekhwy70-AQd7SvuPnZnFR58Cw9rVOdIwxg1rV328jbTkxxT24D1f5MtH__H0ND8-b3m1yrgmCmRBIBSc2-Rvpj9QrPrvxauHgy9aJVUM21ZiPUCL1QtkWoU/s320/20230824_184144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuBA6TxwmI_lDYsH_eCEr48RHw5JggCI_Vx1W2FdOCpfUOwhFtbPvNcUxHl0JYqWeM-D1deeTf5rAPYRGsqQKHtKQ7QunP5nrkkVjI_im72KGFZMyGtMabZK0u3KWPJvPODZjFPh5a1W--6UxsdA7T4v7dYKPsUaUeCwHCad36damv89sH02rbrK6pB4/s1209/20230824_184241.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwuBA6TxwmI_lDYsH_eCEr48RHw5JggCI_Vx1W2FdOCpfUOwhFtbPvNcUxHl0JYqWeM-D1deeTf5rAPYRGsqQKHtKQ7QunP5nrkkVjI_im72KGFZMyGtMabZK0u3KWPJvPODZjFPh5a1W--6UxsdA7T4v7dYKPsUaUeCwHCad36damv89sH02rbrK6pB4/s320/20230824_184241.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWP-WW9ufzF2tbp6k7vkS8Q3C3Mi9ZLhkDVIIMYREVrcl8AvI3RGHrMqkUPXE4cKJnC7YytEFInkHkcRVxn4iiTSEiTCLbpMveVkIAJu0XaRGJgbbdrj0dyEdEjahLl1_4L6PWz28NRj5WEqlwIDmm691H5rBW0zvnEjkxH5XUyJpokZoeOumOslz2AqM/s1209/20230824_184248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWP-WW9ufzF2tbp6k7vkS8Q3C3Mi9ZLhkDVIIMYREVrcl8AvI3RGHrMqkUPXE4cKJnC7YytEFInkHkcRVxn4iiTSEiTCLbpMveVkIAJu0XaRGJgbbdrj0dyEdEjahLl1_4L6PWz28NRj5WEqlwIDmm691H5rBW0zvnEjkxH5XUyJpokZoeOumOslz2AqM/s320/20230824_184248.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd4XX8BbofeR132a4Gue27oQhe8hIezZSjlC7IPKOBgc6mZkgMQ3NmYGNL0J6Fm1yHlbgpMomuWbIOusW6FAAcnvc3U_6kbvKl0w_eh_zkehR7LTrh-2LmzeU0fFMeuA5N4HS3Ig4FeVIErnW_NnxhrNrKiGS0TosmgtChpT6ExFNwFJII93UffFXNBis/s1209/20230824_184444.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd4XX8BbofeR132a4Gue27oQhe8hIezZSjlC7IPKOBgc6mZkgMQ3NmYGNL0J6Fm1yHlbgpMomuWbIOusW6FAAcnvc3U_6kbvKl0w_eh_zkehR7LTrh-2LmzeU0fFMeuA5N4HS3Ig4FeVIErnW_NnxhrNrKiGS0TosmgtChpT6ExFNwFJII93UffFXNBis/s320/20230824_184444.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVw6x-rmMBMk4jV7Eqp1fou9aXWDcwoyZImHUEGe15C64ypItuulrs4_FXWjp7iDU6f6bzfuKTwPog99ZWBBbJqgaqigJshCFz23xGpTcGvVTjzmHvXOcUuPum0KYrZjeXqrWAu11OlwHcaeY646CgwdbhVTBudp-tKyqlhLa1R75ydKL0gG8Wq_oUjo/s1209/20230824_184449.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVw6x-rmMBMk4jV7Eqp1fou9aXWDcwoyZImHUEGe15C64ypItuulrs4_FXWjp7iDU6f6bzfuKTwPog99ZWBBbJqgaqigJshCFz23xGpTcGvVTjzmHvXOcUuPum0KYrZjeXqrWAu11OlwHcaeY646CgwdbhVTBudp-tKyqlhLa1R75ydKL0gG8Wq_oUjo/s320/20230824_184449.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Certo i negoziacci di souvenir che vendono tequila, viagra, cioccolato e cianfrusaglie a prezzi folli, stracolmi di decerebrati che non distinguono il ca*zo dall'equinozio, per citare un grande professore, non aiuta. Gigi cerca una boul a neige, per la sua ricca collezione, ma qui proprio gliele lasciamo senza rimpianti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8--O0dUyQCXilrzkHZPS2TcY3mIxFCr6TjKo2kszS-kfD4P7zekJX_yVqPPra_uUlIizJVzrpC_GJh53mn_RGkoEufhrsNekixTv2YddTG2cQprHeUmUe1UYY1vIOrkaLKvV1ypVijfK4L3e9xY2kHO_xkOCo0FlBxZceUPOxhLu9T0_qqpRKALYdZhA/s1209/20230824_184532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8--O0dUyQCXilrzkHZPS2TcY3mIxFCr6TjKo2kszS-kfD4P7zekJX_yVqPPra_uUlIizJVzrpC_GJh53mn_RGkoEufhrsNekixTv2YddTG2cQprHeUmUe1UYY1vIOrkaLKvV1ypVijfK4L3e9xY2kHO_xkOCo0FlBxZceUPOxhLu9T0_qqpRKALYdZhA/s320/20230824_184532.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQFLnIERFXzS2lDHSz3zAJvbJZMGUufQURuCcab-Bul6UIfdkFgrySFiUuEL7pmY8MVl8oZCIohX_pCb64i5TtZ3iuTc0wj9rohMHsj6ADEl22YlxT4oFPIr50d4p_wLfoOFLhE1ipS2VJUqPe59OuJF1QBY0Bay_5FKK3oJ2njw4eXFKaKxSDDFbCEU/s1209/20230824_184841.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQFLnIERFXzS2lDHSz3zAJvbJZMGUufQURuCcab-Bul6UIfdkFgrySFiUuEL7pmY8MVl8oZCIohX_pCb64i5TtZ3iuTc0wj9rohMHsj6ADEl22YlxT4oFPIr50d4p_wLfoOFLhE1ipS2VJUqPe59OuJF1QBY0Bay_5FKK3oJ2njw4eXFKaKxSDDFbCEU/s320/20230824_184841.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjhUSVcNcpY42h7QLbA_IVNrobLaTmpjl7RW9k7LTzuprtOUjMqZ15xogNizaQeoejv3j4LhwaTETPj4L54HZTdwsWGPZWv3CPhzH0BqoUnJBtux_f5-Jsed0B32E0UfEbtW_0DkBg6JA0en2tqlbOqSJ36qGZxEaZmkK-jtqDB7X3DG5ZFi1Rtl5fUI/s1209/20230824_185147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjhUSVcNcpY42h7QLbA_IVNrobLaTmpjl7RW9k7LTzuprtOUjMqZ15xogNizaQeoejv3j4LhwaTETPj4L54HZTdwsWGPZWv3CPhzH0BqoUnJBtux_f5-Jsed0B32E0UfEbtW_0DkBg6JA0en2tqlbOqSJ36qGZxEaZmkK-jtqDB7X3DG5ZFi1Rtl5fUI/s320/20230824_185147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqyKcgh89Li8pWJeoqVVUpr5VRQzGQ4PWIBxxBRsfknYu3jysoklPAuoD2xGox2i3v1y7x51a1QGaVj7Vk4T6M1FZh2uZqtkg37ts1OmWVRbNOGlK26gsL28QV3GFXYfRXqWHRSPbIA_kv8q70lmoVQKDkY1BhLQ7ixgGfGO2P3sFgwRmEE9UFav0nkI/s1209/20230824_193819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqyKcgh89Li8pWJeoqVVUpr5VRQzGQ4PWIBxxBRsfknYu3jysoklPAuoD2xGox2i3v1y7x51a1QGaVj7Vk4T6M1FZh2uZqtkg37ts1OmWVRbNOGlK26gsL28QV3GFXYfRXqWHRSPbIA_kv8q70lmoVQKDkY1BhLQ7ixgGfGO2P3sFgwRmEE9UFav0nkI/s320/20230824_193819.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dopo aver passeggiato ancora un poco, rientriamo verso la nostra casa di oggi. Facciamo la spesa, e per cena son previsti spaghetti al tonno e verdure, giusto per rendere meno netta la transizione, che avverrà purtroppo a breve, tra la farina di mais e quella di grano, tra il carboidrato tortilla e il carboidrato pasta.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>25/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">San José del cabo - Cabo San Lucas</div><div style="text-align: left;">34km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Oggi si prospetta giornata di quasi pausa, di semiriposo. E' una mezza tappa, pensata sia per visitare bene la zona de Los Cabos, che è la più iconica e caratteristica di quest'area, sia perchè così le ultime due tappe risultano perfettamente bilanciate in km e dislivello, e ci portano la sera sempre in una bella cittadina costiera. Manca ormai poco alla fine del viaggio, cosa che mi procura sensazioni miste e fortemente contrastanti, dolceamare come la belva d'amore descritta da Saffo. Da un lato la stanchezza inizia a farsi sentire, anche se molto meno che in altri viaggi; non è tanto una cottura fisica, quanto più mentale. Ho sbrigato il lavoro di tre persone che stanno a tempo pieno davanti a una scrivania e al telefono, in agenzia, ma mentre pedalavo, mi ammalavo, scrivevo, mi godevo i momenti. E la full immersion nella complicatissima, stratificata e multiforme cultura messicana è stata un'esperienza grandiosa e meravigliosa, ma anche faticosa. La sensazione è quella di un secchiello che viene riempito con tutte le acque dell'oceano e le sue correnti. Mi sento strabordare. So di aver bisogno di un tempo di calma e raccoglimento per rielaborare tutte le esperienze vissute, le novità con cui sono venuta in contatto, i mondi distanti cui mi sono esposta, disarmata, senza nemmeno la pelle addosso, per sentirli meglio. Viaggiare in bici è anche questo. Sentire. Tutto, forte, vicino, senza filtri. Quindi tornare è un bel pensiero, da questo punto di vista. Ma lavorare un po' meno! No, via, si scherza. Anche rivedere colleghi, amici, alunni, sarà bello. Mi spaventa però la routine tritacarne che si sperimenta nei mesi sedentari. So che non mi fa bene e che la mia dimensione ideale è sempre ambivalente e scissa. Muoversi, stare. Viaggiare, metter radici. Planare sulla superficie del tempo, scavarne il fondo. Insomma, mai in pace! Ma la lezione di Ulisse si impara una volta e non si scorda più.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Ovvìa, quante pippe! Dicevo che mancano poche tappe, e distanze brevi. Oggi puntiamo a Cabo San Lucas, e son 34km. Domani saremo a Todos Santos, con altri 78km, e domenica 27 sera raggiungeremo La Paz, con gli ultimi 83km che segneranno la fine del viaggio. A La Paz staremo due giorni, necessari per recuperare scatoloni, scatole e nastro adesivo, per imballare bici e bagagli (ovviamente non abbiamo valigie o zaini, e l'Home Depot, oltre ai negozi di ciclisti contattati da Gigi, ci forniranno tutto il necessario per sembrare i soliti loschi spacciatori di cose in aeroporto). Stamattina, visto che partiamo con calma per non arrivare troppo presto, prenoto sia l'ostello a Todos Santos, un posto da fricchettoni sulla spiaggia, sia l'appartamento a La Paz, una casa storica che dalle foto pare meravigliosa. Inoltre prendo contatti con il tatuatore che ho selezionato per i miei souvenir indelebili, ormai un classico intramontabile da anni a questa parte.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dopo colazione, chiacchiere con il Signor Domani, che mentre rassetta il cortile si fuma un cannone grande così, e le varie brighe logistiche, siamo pronti per pedalare. Uscire da San José è facile, grazie alle piste ciclabili che costeggiano le strade principali. Inoltre c'è ancora poco traffico, perchè i turisti, a quanto pare, non sono molto mattinieri e il sole fa doler la testa a chi si è ubriacato male la sera prima.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiecUTSRPNnhUkQV4mXVQb99u4XzQ0NX_ZvNavQc3RQyRU2IYoRzNyGllLi0iai8y-gs3UiSJJk1cMC8trApo31PJMp2o3jXUKf2jCR1GLoUQOhbyLMBJVlwjLhE9fTShiEylYjovKGoAiorfFdzMG-3qOFpYgpXn_halTV7OOUKkR8_kbtxnGaRfISu1g/s1209/20230825_101121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiecUTSRPNnhUkQV4mXVQb99u4XzQ0NX_ZvNavQc3RQyRU2IYoRzNyGllLi0iai8y-gs3UiSJJk1cMC8trApo31PJMp2o3jXUKf2jCR1GLoUQOhbyLMBJVlwjLhE9fTShiEylYjovKGoAiorfFdzMG-3qOFpYgpXn_halTV7OOUKkR8_kbtxnGaRfISu1g/s320/20230825_101121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCveeGFEX1jlBbQQaugSpXfCZwkddNU0hDUJMEEyCVbEQNiR-wH5xwXCsyLJnSYdSjLnRWKhNH0eaJ6mQ1VTReXh9q8WEYqzvIujfxGyWdoafbasRc6-xKgrgSiZ2fJZjRaawgf4GH3t1XDTWJ9AHdy1Mo5y2rCESAbEf-np8j6eFgk04WH4JBu7fmNSE/s1209/20230825_101136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCveeGFEX1jlBbQQaugSpXfCZwkddNU0hDUJMEEyCVbEQNiR-wH5xwXCsyLJnSYdSjLnRWKhNH0eaJ6mQ1VTReXh9q8WEYqzvIujfxGyWdoafbasRc6-xKgrgSiZ2fJZjRaawgf4GH3t1XDTWJ9AHdy1Mo5y2rCESAbEf-np8j6eFgk04WH4JBu7fmNSE/s320/20230825_101136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Jyxt4iouUx3zQBjy_B6iQKxvkmuQXy-ABfJrSJGbmC2KIHqiCH1pU6x5nmgLI0PUbLpjitSpdSM5UuzisVHovhaQKuqLtfLzoveSpQOb6sS2b7Fq0YrvwhJ0u62HKYs6rzZf1kIWekBUdxtiD82sZ-R0muPOHWvgbv7X6uomCuLBg7AFC5vD_LY3VDo/s1209/20230825_101140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Jyxt4iouUx3zQBjy_B6iQKxvkmuQXy-ABfJrSJGbmC2KIHqiCH1pU6x5nmgLI0PUbLpjitSpdSM5UuzisVHovhaQKuqLtfLzoveSpQOb6sS2b7Fq0YrvwhJ0u62HKYs6rzZf1kIWekBUdxtiD82sZ-R0muPOHWvgbv7X6uomCuLBg7AFC5vD_LY3VDo/s320/20230825_101140.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKd4ojG3H6-15K6d58-o3ZFV34P7qCVNQpMg_yA0yZfTgwt4BZqdP_6yrWXLsEDRTdtQeTO8Zu5Zy6DxrUrN1ALxHe0GnPEbZMHWoixFYOz7R13jqpCm7bgnkBz5eaG-4jfqKbb6jrL5K-J85ZymoG2ipCmqpkXuaBADYKlzsAfKDSyUkcDvMhPpKhf0E/s1209/20230825_102121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKd4ojG3H6-15K6d58-o3ZFV34P7qCVNQpMg_yA0yZfTgwt4BZqdP_6yrWXLsEDRTdtQeTO8Zu5Zy6DxrUrN1ALxHe0GnPEbZMHWoixFYOz7R13jqpCm7bgnkBz5eaG-4jfqKbb6jrL5K-J85ZymoG2ipCmqpkXuaBADYKlzsAfKDSyUkcDvMhPpKhf0E/s320/20230825_102121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwEq4G7lWBkVfm0przp5ZIiMNP-hRZ2cLm_J2lUlV3Pu4idzFizmOPH_Sue2wunzu8Ff9W1CIBq7xnjy0G9YxSHJzjmSw1iyANY-HPBHMkzP4FZ9LJyjl9SxsDzYzI_iTjYSNrwau4iw-3hZTU4HdUvxkaD1BIgJewNKdDh0p8nGvyCTpagVPlhKV-fQ0/s1209/20230825_102141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwEq4G7lWBkVfm0przp5ZIiMNP-hRZ2cLm_J2lUlV3Pu4idzFizmOPH_Sue2wunzu8Ff9W1CIBq7xnjy0G9YxSHJzjmSw1iyANY-HPBHMkzP4FZ9LJyjl9SxsDzYzI_iTjYSNrwau4iw-3hZTU4HdUvxkaD1BIgJewNKdDh0p8nGvyCTpagVPlhKV-fQ0/s320/20230825_102141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La situazione si fa meno rosea appena usciti dalla città. La strada è spesso stretta, senza bordo, e funestata da snodi e incroci pericolosissimi. Auto e furgoni si moltiplicano, e corrono, senza darsi cura di allargare un poco quando ci sfrecciano a pochi millimetri, quasi trascinandoci via. Nemmeno a dirlo, non c'è un metro in piano, e son tutti saliscendi spesso ripidi. Questo è il cosiddetto corridor turistico, che si sta mangiando il deserto in favore di mega resort, campi da golf grandi come città e brutte multiproprietà spesso ancora in costruzione, o mai finite, o finite e rimaste invendute. Il mare si vede solo a tratti, e comunque abbiamo poca attenzione da dedicargli: dobbiamo per lo più stare attenti a non essere investiti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimXIzXDwtJp9B8fBc04uTOQww3TQzYtDeWKEj1Nrw0CUJYci2BO_sIYnVVbpQq6ICWt_327-cKJNZpPxhAWZnhtZlkdZx8k_2UCsqZ0BM5-g73oIqZJN9E2ZwbcZlkxBaKMHZo6oyAtPeSQfcYHxolPi_fTRzjfqyLafhxv4lEGYnfKOhyYp4pwPhFe4/s1209/20230825_104359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimXIzXDwtJp9B8fBc04uTOQww3TQzYtDeWKEj1Nrw0CUJYci2BO_sIYnVVbpQq6ICWt_327-cKJNZpPxhAWZnhtZlkdZx8k_2UCsqZ0BM5-g73oIqZJN9E2ZwbcZlkxBaKMHZo6oyAtPeSQfcYHxolPi_fTRzjfqyLafhxv4lEGYnfKOhyYp4pwPhFe4/s320/20230825_104359.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6zswGiprYB1Cb0sfFMUuPXKxQSRLKh_EBeDEA4amSI2XEZyISzG642xpZnRuPeIOW9yXCEtiCDx8TWOcRBDt7kh2eh1Pmyd3j1Btx6I2BGzWLuhJKAnmffTtfodtDF7PEZm0CABmqFCdX2Q4U6CRw0CAH6rF8KwDLsIQmcMS5_G9lFwowUvj7FrQdfQ/s1209/20230825_105413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6zswGiprYB1Cb0sfFMUuPXKxQSRLKh_EBeDEA4amSI2XEZyISzG642xpZnRuPeIOW9yXCEtiCDx8TWOcRBDt7kh2eh1Pmyd3j1Btx6I2BGzWLuhJKAnmffTtfodtDF7PEZm0CABmqFCdX2Q4U6CRw0CAH6rF8KwDLsIQmcMS5_G9lFwowUvj7FrQdfQ/s320/20230825_105413.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-stf_VL6ixMuepyxHlsITKc0t6icSlK-gk7hrrq32kNVOSFrGg_F7T58isNnlU6F9-Z1TTubVLGybzMxBMxqjSXbBlIU_hvFwpGgkePVjdEYR2ZEo2J354_K0yQgOJZIDOIbtSNYWFq-2nNub3GesQfgIFsfIIFlvOGv-w5-FamB7Yn9Ozi1o5t9hj3c/s1209/20230825_105416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-stf_VL6ixMuepyxHlsITKc0t6icSlK-gk7hrrq32kNVOSFrGg_F7T58isNnlU6F9-Z1TTubVLGybzMxBMxqjSXbBlIU_hvFwpGgkePVjdEYR2ZEo2J354_K0yQgOJZIDOIbtSNYWFq-2nNub3GesQfgIFsfIIFlvOGv-w5-FamB7Yn9Ozi1o5t9hj3c/s320/20230825_105416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJjRq5xf0IQaUSBVDC8_8b6V5hnb0lL0TU3yBFshqrd3NAo_hEKkHfOf00vGiTOei3QtpCceSLjUmHeQI6HtGzGTUyDp_XcchPXsXO43cqEJof0O4OA4qPG3FNe5MG2MmX3giRCf8MWb2CV2MW8hW4CAChj93wckPqp300chuHkIoYQ7EKypRYnqLWBk/s1209/20230825_114026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJjRq5xf0IQaUSBVDC8_8b6V5hnb0lL0TU3yBFshqrd3NAo_hEKkHfOf00vGiTOei3QtpCceSLjUmHeQI6HtGzGTUyDp_XcchPXsXO43cqEJof0O4OA4qPG3FNe5MG2MmX3giRCf8MWb2CV2MW8hW4CAChj93wckPqp300chuHkIoYQ7EKypRYnqLWBk/s320/20230825_114026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nel giro di poco, comunque, siamo a destinazione, a Cabo San Lucas. E' ancora molto presto, troppo per chiedere in ostello la cortesia di farci fare check in anticipato, quindi ci fermiamo a bere qualcosa di fresco. Noto subito i manifesti che pubblicizzano un torneo di pesca: ho letto che qui sono numerosi e prestigiosi a livello internazionale, soprattutto quelli dedicati ai marlin, e spesso in palio ci sono premi molto allettanti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCRK1jVsuVuRUGB-cEKJNhEze4HDL_uftBcmoUWcPFHPR-SPydn2QBETUsPjrTpHRgo9sSH9GrV45vRFNIT1amXitpZck29yzY6Ji7PgZpI78C5eN6PIitH4ubQebUeyIUMvhxE567boFbVNSRyr1p54oMbpr8WoaE6UmYyc4XXFNsCRoLgfSgqHuniE/s1209/20230825_120550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlCRK1jVsuVuRUGB-cEKJNhEze4HDL_uftBcmoUWcPFHPR-SPydn2QBETUsPjrTpHRgo9sSH9GrV45vRFNIT1amXitpZck29yzY6Ji7PgZpI78C5eN6PIitH4ubQebUeyIUMvhxE567boFbVNSRyr1p54oMbpr8WoaE6UmYyc4XXFNsCRoLgfSgqHuniE/s320/20230825_120550.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOA5vRfZHW2xzodurUJQqpv2U00_7-8XU_IMdSXiCqdFTz51i1Wf3WQ_kXAFEUT8ln2jfuiyCt7iZ5Uu8p49mANnuJ_GxIq1TKibMMQ25XHKGfn65no009P1HIN2-gDeYTlKzeLTjafim0yT3U3ten2Y68qHEThtvQ7CGKADjFHzx2En2oQ-j_NJpMUc/s1209/20230825_122233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOA5vRfZHW2xzodurUJQqpv2U00_7-8XU_IMdSXiCqdFTz51i1Wf3WQ_kXAFEUT8ln2jfuiyCt7iZ5Uu8p49mANnuJ_GxIq1TKibMMQ25XHKGfn65no009P1HIN2-gDeYTlKzeLTjafim0yT3U3ten2Y68qHEThtvQ7CGKADjFHzx2En2oQ-j_NJpMUc/s320/20230825_122233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Gigi è un po' provato, quindi ci spostiamo in ostello e riusciamo a farci dare la camera nonostante non sia ancora mezzogiorno. Il ragazzo alla reception è gentilissimo e ci spiega tutto della struttura e di quanto il quartiere ha da offrire. Siamo in centro, a due passi dal porto e dall'iconico promontorio Land's end, il punto più a sud della penisola. Ci concediamo una doccia e un po' di riposo al fresco in questo hostal che pare una casetta e fa sentire in famiglia: tutti salutano, chiacchierano e sorridono come se ci si conoscesse da anni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuWAKKGgyQNiQjOttE1YfixXH4KwPWndEHVaBD1UTrOIfqMuRMBrDgAkXGih_gPWsdxCDB9falMkKHyvqPMxQhA-PRULkD34372jvAZBw9tXTUUHDRe92keuZfneZjWpWg4Fui6c-thvKfn2YgiMyZuVDzuRSc6OfrIbV8d0kiI51xkcyCUCO80bgg60/s1209/20230825_124150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuWAKKGgyQNiQjOttE1YfixXH4KwPWndEHVaBD1UTrOIfqMuRMBrDgAkXGih_gPWsdxCDB9falMkKHyvqPMxQhA-PRULkD34372jvAZBw9tXTUUHDRe92keuZfneZjWpWg4Fui6c-thvKfn2YgiMyZuVDzuRSc6OfrIbV8d0kiI51xkcyCUCO80bgg60/s320/20230825_124150.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMPL16gAPRotCVdkqHuRm1iMHoMXh0HdbbZf7_TDplOUb55RTVRXek_iZ8VXUEbZL3nAwnoqGis3tzRsb2LEiAMPCHCRxQcLJP3QuJGcSNzAjwHoiidjHAx5AqVSPnowb2MWmIDVrwM79CWZIWzpIx-YD0Xpjr2AEvwop947zNXD2foD7vyKv8HVSt5Mw/s1209/20230825_124158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMPL16gAPRotCVdkqHuRm1iMHoMXh0HdbbZf7_TDplOUb55RTVRXek_iZ8VXUEbZL3nAwnoqGis3tzRsb2LEiAMPCHCRxQcLJP3QuJGcSNzAjwHoiidjHAx5AqVSPnowb2MWmIDVrwM79CWZIWzpIx-YD0Xpjr2AEvwop947zNXD2foD7vyKv8HVSt5Mw/s320/20230825_124158.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXN9lWZL9gdDdmAK6WQD49oVNWyAvnSSeCHd0plcTCvW7ppsG-qA0druislbHyCybFaZr8_uJiQjU7ZZSKHjck5sq1czt8Gb3A97hASaMntVDLjKPdxg1atmmFrcUChX1JKzzC3on40dEui1Vq7wnf_9LYQZElr9xa7aQ2pSonJsCIw2HYHmqLmJEsSE/s1209/20230825_124209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXN9lWZL9gdDdmAK6WQD49oVNWyAvnSSeCHd0plcTCvW7ppsG-qA0druislbHyCybFaZr8_uJiQjU7ZZSKHjck5sq1czt8Gb3A97hASaMntVDLjKPdxg1atmmFrcUChX1JKzzC3on40dEui1Vq7wnf_9LYQZElr9xa7aQ2pSonJsCIw2HYHmqLmJEsSE/s320/20230825_124209.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nel primo pomeriggio viene il momento di uscire ad esplorare le bellezze che questa "sorella scatenata" di San José ha da offrire. Lasciamo a chi sa apprezzarli i locali dove si balla la conga in fila, mentre i camerieri versano tequila direttamente in gola, e pure i catamarani allestiti a discoteca, con open bar, struscio e vomitini inclusi. Passiamo dal centro, che a quest'ora è deserto. La luce è accecante, chiarissima, verticale. I negozi sono tutti di souvenir e si alternano alle decine di farmacie, ai bar che scimmiottano Starbucks e ai ristoranti, molti dei quali etnici (ma la cucina messicana fa così orrore ai turisti?).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0l7icHnrDJXosAuQ8tTUST9UlQItLWtjnRHtUGWE1Y2dPy2gW6fKa91jeidRsM2Kh2j_6JaTVFnRvunD0fUKFZD17BuDQ6FFdH8Y3beBc-mn9AKvHSmES5j_gNx9UI70YkQ-veeZxwpVfvbx0ZllSnVF5IPHrQbaH_wPCzdTSuqKxn8LZ_4Mt95O6IFE/s1209/20230825_145116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0l7icHnrDJXosAuQ8tTUST9UlQItLWtjnRHtUGWE1Y2dPy2gW6fKa91jeidRsM2Kh2j_6JaTVFnRvunD0fUKFZD17BuDQ6FFdH8Y3beBc-mn9AKvHSmES5j_gNx9UI70YkQ-veeZxwpVfvbx0ZllSnVF5IPHrQbaH_wPCzdTSuqKxn8LZ_4Mt95O6IFE/s320/20230825_145116.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDx6715sggyvxe4z6twRKbdR2nRNliRZpwLzF8Ue2zFwz1E3VrA-ClqhyjZCQYU1gL0LyJsDlJolFM00KweM-cElpFAAr_22cGhgIC5tMgQ6oghqjTG_fjoPxTk44fmsecIulZvQW984O98DQVVoPvfrCIQ0cADWkqyc6R6cpgUb-KU2NUlq4_DA-9Fbo/s1209/20230825_145201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDx6715sggyvxe4z6twRKbdR2nRNliRZpwLzF8Ue2zFwz1E3VrA-ClqhyjZCQYU1gL0LyJsDlJolFM00KweM-cElpFAAr_22cGhgIC5tMgQ6oghqjTG_fjoPxTk44fmsecIulZvQW984O98DQVVoPvfrCIQ0cADWkqyc6R6cpgUb-KU2NUlq4_DA-9Fbo/s320/20230825_145201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtFTuhCvPHJ4jizxRUVb0eI-c8YSpte2LjGN5A_Tzasm3dILNlF5frsGFsu1M3ociDuGS6ZJ3oKrPYx_zqgqK0-nyPQ2BT6HNTn4-knGAyBryHhkNYU3SNHCCvkmM99J7mxYvOlpS3s8BgTz1cLgkaIa-wmP_d3iSiQGK5y4pIQuWDQl3vg-_eWK-NdI/s1209/20230825_145246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtFTuhCvPHJ4jizxRUVb0eI-c8YSpte2LjGN5A_Tzasm3dILNlF5frsGFsu1M3ociDuGS6ZJ3oKrPYx_zqgqK0-nyPQ2BT6HNTn4-knGAyBryHhkNYU3SNHCCvkmM99J7mxYvOlpS3s8BgTz1cLgkaIa-wmP_d3iSiQGK5y4pIQuWDQl3vg-_eWK-NdI/s320/20230825_145246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xCWoyr3OcLpJai015thU-Lu-yrW9uqn69U4Yx2cHinN7Z4oxNejUQ4nSeD-iv7lf-ipX4nn1sdz50C1MpYwb0sxsN_KZ36QCIUUnsiBbgxhhns6uFw1ud9hdqxER6wtnY04zt0iRUL4Rm2sNXLBAGcwebczvGqDfSgW_vU8bN1kaf14Uj-JMcdKQJUA/s1209/20230825_145640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xCWoyr3OcLpJai015thU-Lu-yrW9uqn69U4Yx2cHinN7Z4oxNejUQ4nSeD-iv7lf-ipX4nn1sdz50C1MpYwb0sxsN_KZ36QCIUUnsiBbgxhhns6uFw1ud9hdqxER6wtnY04zt0iRUL4Rm2sNXLBAGcwebczvGqDfSgW_vU8bN1kaf14Uj-JMcdKQJUA/s320/20230825_145640.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8axIknIMLJZbcvW5M2v6TsFaf2pVA95trYsc2UTF0mzgSKNTwKxaNFIQjMrs9jIMa5qGuYLeFrk1LbE9k_pqWdEuGxvK7Aniq7Hr5pJ5q9Vkcxp86n4EQN46isuYIBoHSOPvBYGE8t96IUeIDtfj-QPUlJTnm6wb41-9PaD7dPfNRfupOM9j-3gSC8Vg/s1209/20230825_145724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8axIknIMLJZbcvW5M2v6TsFaf2pVA95trYsc2UTF0mzgSKNTwKxaNFIQjMrs9jIMa5qGuYLeFrk1LbE9k_pqWdEuGxvK7Aniq7Hr5pJ5q9Vkcxp86n4EQN46isuYIBoHSOPvBYGE8t96IUeIDtfj-QPUlJTnm6wb41-9PaD7dPfNRfupOM9j-3gSC8Vg/s320/20230825_145724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMN5AtdEtGojZJO-ER1Iq_q1GZZYxyJN_KSEX_XF42VPJOs-PeurYnPCqrwwlkEaAqbFGSsajDbk4Df15F7l6ugGKE1tuu5XOYimzAcsjk2qoBWKU3XKhH63EpEh8wRDwMpjQw8ugwlkH_r-6hXBUJ0vpJWW9i00GBDH03VQXkesYZfc24nLAsiGNuVI/s1209/20230825_145802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMN5AtdEtGojZJO-ER1Iq_q1GZZYxyJN_KSEX_XF42VPJOs-PeurYnPCqrwwlkEaAqbFGSsajDbk4Df15F7l6ugGKE1tuu5XOYimzAcsjk2qoBWKU3XKhH63EpEh8wRDwMpjQw8ugwlkH_r-6hXBUJ0vpJWW9i00GBDH03VQXkesYZfc24nLAsiGNuVI/s320/20230825_145802.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxP69FFkVVIrtAVVxbEfPjDVpIAkorCsFLDQjgl7BCzjLF7JlWXY5yOQUzCwEHwDEFUQB0KqWnGtpzmVrL70BKeJcxq7xTfqiQ3ZTtrJm3bY2oh0RV9e6cbDiPehHHoD6zdYqYXp8dGbpzArvjS3LLAznipkFS1kItGkUu-z-F6o0zjtBWM0WXhI3evt4/s1209/20230825_150012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxP69FFkVVIrtAVVxbEfPjDVpIAkorCsFLDQjgl7BCzjLF7JlWXY5yOQUzCwEHwDEFUQB0KqWnGtpzmVrL70BKeJcxq7xTfqiQ3ZTtrJm3bY2oh0RV9e6cbDiPehHHoD6zdYqYXp8dGbpzArvjS3LLAznipkFS1kItGkUu-z-F6o0zjtBWM0WXhI3evt4/s320/20230825_150012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHBHIO58A7IQ-lhrQuAcV-fLX2tuMDDF_XSRB1LBSAO5RVMj_L1_qLBkEwd9QLza0sZuoO2XG88jelXZqFYfjaeiyq0ptm5d41mhN5MMAnjKrdk4Lizl1bWaEwxBu4FnxY-RQCNQM29uffSs1DEIyxf3oLuAQMq5TAqTNO-thi-qvVAiFf_8EvgVm_YY/s1209/20230825_150106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHBHIO58A7IQ-lhrQuAcV-fLX2tuMDDF_XSRB1LBSAO5RVMj_L1_qLBkEwd9QLza0sZuoO2XG88jelXZqFYfjaeiyq0ptm5d41mhN5MMAnjKrdk4Lizl1bWaEwxBu4FnxY-RQCNQM29uffSs1DEIyxf3oLuAQMq5TAqTNO-thi-qvVAiFf_8EvgVm_YY/s320/20230825_150106.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLmTUi70kxhG-GA-sHCiSOW5QxGTGi6xUFzJxOr55vFKk27Z0lftE_9to2CL31d465jdPL-j4MmsPy2VJXJk6a00AFfe0CX4RjYshscaJsjm4yDsbqeOkOTFJANUOThZjxeHCXnsG_k90sCuNCj6LcE41z-7_u2iL7CvKrfdFufh4OU5aj7osb8LU_k0/s1209/20230825_150135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidLmTUi70kxhG-GA-sHCiSOW5QxGTGi6xUFzJxOr55vFKk27Z0lftE_9to2CL31d465jdPL-j4MmsPy2VJXJk6a00AFfe0CX4RjYshscaJsjm4yDsbqeOkOTFJANUOThZjxeHCXnsG_k90sCuNCj6LcE41z-7_u2iL7CvKrfdFufh4OU5aj7osb8LU_k0/s320/20230825_150135.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci dirigiamo verso il porto. Dopo aver frugato internet, ho capito che il modo migliore per vedere il promontorio di Land's end nel tempo e con il budget che abbiamo è prendere un taxi acquatico, un barchino che ti porta a circumnavigare la penisola e ti lascia sulle spiagge e nelle calette, per poi venirti a recuperare all'ora stabilita. Al porto si susseguono senza soluzione di continuità i baracchini dei procacciatori di clienti che vendono tour di ogni genere. I più gettonati sono quelli nel deserto, a cavallo, in quad e in cammello (sic, questa cosa ha preso piede in modo inquietante); a pari merito quelli in barca, con o senza snorkelling, con o senza degustazione di pesce pescato in loco. I prezzi sono tutti in dollari americani. I bancomat erogano quasi solo dollari americani. Tutti parlicchiano almeno qualche parola in inglese. Dopo aver parlamentato un po' con un venditore, ci accordiamo per il servizio taxi a 15 dollari, e ci carichiamo su un'imbarcazione con il fondo di vetro guidata da un ragazzino che avrà 16 anni al massimo. Quando saliamo si sta gustando un chupachups mentre smandrocchia al telefono: potrebbe essere un mio alunno. Con noi salgono anche due circa trentenni, palesemente entrambi messicani. Lei parla solo spagnolo ed è vestita con un abitino rosa succinto che scopre più che coprire. Lui da gringo fatto e finito, ma con complessione e accento da chingon hecho en México. Chiacchieriamo tutto il tempo e lui sostiene di essere di San Diego puro statunitense. Maddai. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgijBvf5qyZWCCOD1sHgnhluq0oTfIaH9qgKzDuK_lbUqO_HJY7dZ-8g-XkbqTt5OK-a8VvxLaJ8hbGzdhbGodMIEmaIYuHGytV_FkiN9YiXXO7zDETLLeLiacon-pB4oC0vQ-htuD_do1783sZj2W6xLVsfHyQrz1LcWjU8ALf56aWzpmNTJDILOk6g/s1209/20230825_151244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgijBvf5qyZWCCOD1sHgnhluq0oTfIaH9qgKzDuK_lbUqO_HJY7dZ-8g-XkbqTt5OK-a8VvxLaJ8hbGzdhbGodMIEmaIYuHGytV_FkiN9YiXXO7zDETLLeLiacon-pB4oC0vQ-htuD_do1783sZj2W6xLVsfHyQrz1LcWjU8ALf56aWzpmNTJDILOk6g/s320/20230825_151244.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6rOIVrzVYYp9YKgrnDKb9wtv5Z1Ser3GYIhBdLMSgKuzn3Ae14XUL_biNdjZaa07Jvu7PIiwNdcFLSRvlWPAmTIZNf41D4DfpbunE12VaUXC5zUMKmwS3PTjA79Z6PPsoYSbkB1OZxyA9znZTHIqi6irh1nwOu0cFEKmcCxnAwmJpelKKqZ7aH_ADqg/s989/20230825_152624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6rOIVrzVYYp9YKgrnDKb9wtv5Z1Ser3GYIhBdLMSgKuzn3Ae14XUL_biNdjZaa07Jvu7PIiwNdcFLSRvlWPAmTIZNf41D4DfpbunE12VaUXC5zUMKmwS3PTjA79Z6PPsoYSbkB1OZxyA9znZTHIqi6irh1nwOu0cFEKmcCxnAwmJpelKKqZ7aH_ADqg/s320/20230825_152624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gigi ormai si imbarca senza tema, per quanto poi le onde forte vicino alle scogliere lo faranno ricredere sulle sue scelte avventate, nel seguirmi. In porto passiamo accanto ad alcuni gruppi di leoni marini, puzzoni, pigri e spaparanzati come da manuale. Li abbiamo visti anche in California, nel Big Sur, e in Perù. Sono sempre un grande (e grosso) spettacolo!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjitkevGKUz5yPBV3xPMEk8PerQwENW3dk6Gw5TPKd4rsFYOW2Cv1x168T164QOZXGv890xYb3KWc_71AJlmYxC5Mwf3BxHFdWlXY4EiPBkUgUtoesEOdSSUAZwU4tnLYOo8Jt_MWFAA4Pi2hAsYTZv_GkG0uiqLNa_OLs8ibwUGrPNQDQyV9Je5ZHIXk/s1209/20230825_152726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjitkevGKUz5yPBV3xPMEk8PerQwENW3dk6Gw5TPKd4rsFYOW2Cv1x168T164QOZXGv890xYb3KWc_71AJlmYxC5Mwf3BxHFdWlXY4EiPBkUgUtoesEOdSSUAZwU4tnLYOo8Jt_MWFAA4Pi2hAsYTZv_GkG0uiqLNa_OLs8ibwUGrPNQDQyV9Je5ZHIXk/s320/20230825_152726.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZDEUvi7-0QskB4SpeETePMBpBf5L_3ghr9WTNjzqN4HZqtfC-YKt5ragdWv_JO-Cg8QpVLQAtY1sZdRNfM8Ppflnaw3Rstb1Q4UuqayXADf4sWXQOsdTEfqjRDi9Zrv_YO4Gzcyvj32jK7ha7YmEkLjs3F25KoGbkK3Q--67XAc_Qf5HEDBOCCxN9_TA/s1209/20230825_152728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZDEUvi7-0QskB4SpeETePMBpBf5L_3ghr9WTNjzqN4HZqtfC-YKt5ragdWv_JO-Cg8QpVLQAtY1sZdRNfM8Ppflnaw3Rstb1Q4UuqayXADf4sWXQOsdTEfqjRDi9Zrv_YO4Gzcyvj32jK7ha7YmEkLjs3F25KoGbkK3Q--67XAc_Qf5HEDBOCCxN9_TA/s320/20230825_152728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwN6VRUOSalWlGhg3hGGCrYzXUVh9nz1rPOexSdSORsRh5V4DwkTydn-QJi10-PLkkJd_x0pW9AW23tU7kt7GcutgQTsFxLxX1PKB2paTfZAa1WL65CeHmnZ_HZqFEO40bdog-cypFdqlb1JUhRbtnd5HL856busRTg7uKO_H5Kec2iiFcI3kk9iH0FA/s1209/20230825_152731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwN6VRUOSalWlGhg3hGGCrYzXUVh9nz1rPOexSdSORsRh5V4DwkTydn-QJi10-PLkkJd_x0pW9AW23tU7kt7GcutgQTsFxLxX1PKB2paTfZAa1WL65CeHmnZ_HZqFEO40bdog-cypFdqlb1JUhRbtnd5HL856busRTg7uKO_H5Kec2iiFcI3kk9iH0FA/s320/20230825_152731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsj54GG6YRjeHlLdc7pGlbyueXpqnQIR8wB261pCAA_3Zf4q-Qzzh3a46NZB2Zg4-8wUlsWNkSliBkEn7Bqxn82Q0uMBxxZVr7oxwBxY32wT_MOn8LT9Yg7c1xk1nyxBKHYwAkt9tSac3_9YDeRhrD3e6kJcXAtJT1wvPyHkFhLQC70zJC1Gwb3aq0epc/s1209/20230825_152733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsj54GG6YRjeHlLdc7pGlbyueXpqnQIR8wB261pCAA_3Zf4q-Qzzh3a46NZB2Zg4-8wUlsWNkSliBkEn7Bqxn82Q0uMBxxZVr7oxwBxY32wT_MOn8LT9Yg7c1xk1nyxBKHYwAkt9tSac3_9YDeRhrD3e6kJcXAtJT1wvPyHkFhLQC70zJC1Gwb3aq0epc/s320/20230825_152733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Lasciamo poi la marina, per costeggiare il promontorio, che è un gioiello di formazioni rocciose alternate a calette di sabbia d'oro fino. Questa lingua di terra separa il Mare di Cortés dall'oceano Pacifico e ospita colonie di otarie, pellicani e una varietà di pesci e specie marine che si ammirano anche solo guardando la superficie dell'acqua.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNRJMbCsCP16lLO30Da0txVSnU-M1sWYV-1oaWduduHTqK3otc6Cw1GWZ3j--C1o5MaY12qXBcYzPip71vAYZxg7UW5fiVWgZc5YElXuo58FvE8Umd0ssznp-VKUWo6mRaHSKxZVKrVoyqAJjVBw5xyspgLH50WK6YU74irO9c94IqTz61wKL5wuQ1xe8/s1209/20230825_152941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNRJMbCsCP16lLO30Da0txVSnU-M1sWYV-1oaWduduHTqK3otc6Cw1GWZ3j--C1o5MaY12qXBcYzPip71vAYZxg7UW5fiVWgZc5YElXuo58FvE8Umd0ssznp-VKUWo6mRaHSKxZVKrVoyqAJjVBw5xyspgLH50WK6YU74irO9c94IqTz61wKL5wuQ1xe8/s320/20230825_152941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqY_U0kmmycXqiDxxmJ_QlYNYA0MRSiMuRwjh4XdRameunWWEDNWaEV8gaOYISZkwJCb_11zDa-44JBNbUZsexawRPMfmXTJAhXSt1cs8KFCVD_hE-83gdtvazKhV9NK6PzIUeErxQsGsRYGF_ohFrAorscFpO2pQF0jQXBQgezgWOjVcGU83U6RWaso/s1173/20230825_153304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="880" data-original-width="1173" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqY_U0kmmycXqiDxxmJ_QlYNYA0MRSiMuRwjh4XdRameunWWEDNWaEV8gaOYISZkwJCb_11zDa-44JBNbUZsexawRPMfmXTJAhXSt1cs8KFCVD_hE-83gdtvazKhV9NK6PzIUeErxQsGsRYGF_ohFrAorscFpO2pQF0jQXBQgezgWOjVcGU83U6RWaso/s320/20230825_153304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhglP__2DNjDrrw8Rwh9AtFXl1KGh-lVcJ8HMM66mw5lGILl8I_F3ZvnovdxQd_5rXzewEuaaiRzKPyArjZwdFNKFhwMRVpa2xIhv9VcqUsh98qrEYsz0KoPwK8ODbK9gRm03TIigT0gky2o4NeqbGhmOTe8bL29HRFIu1xRj9E-bENINgVUXQWtNKOjWY/s1209/20230825_153339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhglP__2DNjDrrw8Rwh9AtFXl1KGh-lVcJ8HMM66mw5lGILl8I_F3ZvnovdxQd_5rXzewEuaaiRzKPyArjZwdFNKFhwMRVpa2xIhv9VcqUsh98qrEYsz0KoPwK8ODbK9gRm03TIigT0gky2o4NeqbGhmOTe8bL29HRFIu1xRj9E-bENINgVUXQWtNKOjWY/s320/20230825_153339.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6cGEYVUA7wr515u7BPlecO7nekh3hIga3rIJOnSaKrRQTsgUmzXYk-iWSlVG93RyBXlmUHygzPyFxXRc1DKRFCYcnSTDLvWTpnTT8_muCGu-asGg4_wHMi-zVB8WWZrA93-_9I6fYsIsFS395AevgylssvsDkgflkODcICKqhAIKHOaXEWb5JH0Hprc/s1209/20230825_153343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6cGEYVUA7wr515u7BPlecO7nekh3hIga3rIJOnSaKrRQTsgUmzXYk-iWSlVG93RyBXlmUHygzPyFxXRc1DKRFCYcnSTDLvWTpnTT8_muCGu-asGg4_wHMi-zVB8WWZrA93-_9I6fYsIsFS395AevgylssvsDkgflkODcICKqhAIKHOaXEWb5JH0Hprc/s320/20230825_153343.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wXuHY7NXohc0-7sgctV6LNbAcTOZJaqEzdApuUwWrfN_4jqg2xJ_4ZCch6LmejqK72wKyvAzkCpRZrd1vdyHJysHBuOJaPDixf7B8w3LOXe9hwHusmtwplBoKV1GxIuA_HnUnYMkBJiJvRvcqAV98ItazMP1mIaB8brSLhUwsZhpj2E2BFhOTgwCmKM/s1164/20230825_153347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="873" data-original-width="1164" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wXuHY7NXohc0-7sgctV6LNbAcTOZJaqEzdApuUwWrfN_4jqg2xJ_4ZCch6LmejqK72wKyvAzkCpRZrd1vdyHJysHBuOJaPDixf7B8w3LOXe9hwHusmtwplBoKV1GxIuA_HnUnYMkBJiJvRvcqAV98ItazMP1mIaB8brSLhUwsZhpj2E2BFhOTgwCmKM/s320/20230825_153347.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i pelliquelli!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />El capitan, il ragazzino, è in vena di chiacchiere, e ci racconta un po' di aneddoti e curiosità sui luoghi che stiamo ammirando. Ad esempio, ci dà dei cracker da gettare in acqua per far avvicinare i pesci, coloratissimi, gialli, rossi, striati. Mi fa ridere perchè commenta che quei pesci sono grassi perchè tutti i giorni i turisti li alimentano a biscotti, merendine e pan Bimbo (che è una marca di prodotti commerciali da forno molto messicana). I pesci del pan Bimbo fa riderissimo!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPRs4_A3i8MFp6SHupgxRLhPMqf9s8QeKg7vLLPszqXxniAfpD2K_CqpfuYmoNm6wyovwvOxg7IaaF1YizYuJhf6o1KZKUOxY0qjIsTG5zEuExatf7oVzxuhjaAIXOob9B1BPcXROfFnUSiZy3tM8A0YaeKhRoovJaLv4hsTGXDlSXImoQAx5OJJJuF28/s1209/20230825_153433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPRs4_A3i8MFp6SHupgxRLhPMqf9s8QeKg7vLLPszqXxniAfpD2K_CqpfuYmoNm6wyovwvOxg7IaaF1YizYuJhf6o1KZKUOxY0qjIsTG5zEuExatf7oVzxuhjaAIXOob9B1BPcXROfFnUSiZy3tM8A0YaeKhRoovJaLv4hsTGXDlSXImoQAx5OJJJuF28/s320/20230825_153433.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL1srFrtGj-IOlF7X97Hqa3vr7jvCeIwlG4AuTUfXfOBhe9d4BZGdZq6zFgBeUrUf2es9dMELTCJG3rjZamYG3hHL3X1rt5BlBSLdAif_Ufm_fAms8h3aTjZ2eUbSl7Wvt43lK4ilGo-3szgbqyKqMNvXJZK3JSmjyKi07iWJlH24lASZ9gkIEhPJgGzo/s1209/20230825_153612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL1srFrtGj-IOlF7X97Hqa3vr7jvCeIwlG4AuTUfXfOBhe9d4BZGdZq6zFgBeUrUf2es9dMELTCJG3rjZamYG3hHL3X1rt5BlBSLdAif_Ufm_fAms8h3aTjZ2eUbSl7Wvt43lK4ilGo-3szgbqyKqMNvXJZK3JSmjyKi07iWJlH24lASZ9gkIEhPJgGzo/s320/20230825_153612.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Purtroppo non possiamo approdare alla famosissima Playa del Amor, che affaccia sia sul Pacifico sia sul mare di Cortés, perchè l'alta marea l'ha sommersa quasi del tutto. Accanto alla Playa de l'Amor c'è una grotta detta di San Andrés, perchè si entra in dos e si esce in tres. Più avanti, esposta alle onde violente dell'oceano, c'è l'inevitabile Playa del Divorcio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYI5dZyKnD4Aw36iFVetFfmS3nRUB8AL1f1vUjt1qBgLg711fuQACnKjZSuq_XVgccAtan9APPQ55xPt_OiBTWoknpu3TxhkmXdHzd98fmqrCwxdTgbTnA1Wi0zdOG3LDDAt51ZZzsSKE0AwXt2xgO8wiQGcYkxOABFWs3izwL8b2YReBjcC7M9-VGcJw/s1209/20230825_153937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYI5dZyKnD4Aw36iFVetFfmS3nRUB8AL1f1vUjt1qBgLg711fuQACnKjZSuq_XVgccAtan9APPQ55xPt_OiBTWoknpu3TxhkmXdHzd98fmqrCwxdTgbTnA1Wi0zdOG3LDDAt51ZZzsSKE0AwXt2xgO8wiQGcYkxOABFWs3izwL8b2YReBjcC7M9-VGcJw/s320/20230825_153937.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbk3yDJxYVIVMyIwv5_fnisblUxYgW6Tr8LZiPDkbt6UpyUUNr_1KcDVClUpGBFWac0aAa011_Bkz47WBT3Ri9WfhD4c1fDfQ_fLNmfNTKVwGywMX0Pbx5I52PGE4bchnHeQfgWP7ttp0tGCzcwCukp8hEDnQHCoTOn7HpunC368d9bn2M381B-dlyvU/s1209/20230825_153953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbk3yDJxYVIVMyIwv5_fnisblUxYgW6Tr8LZiPDkbt6UpyUUNr_1KcDVClUpGBFWac0aAa011_Bkz47WBT3Ri9WfhD4c1fDfQ_fLNmfNTKVwGywMX0Pbx5I52PGE4bchnHeQfgWP7ttp0tGCzcwCukp8hEDnQHCoTOn7HpunC368d9bn2M381B-dlyvU/s320/20230825_153953.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybTA5PL8FqAnZ9W_OmyFMem90AuWj3egRZvLLRz8IXiEaW4tN-kATfA9O7wpW0u4KMXNcH4KcOgqUWES0Bxs4y19hUiV63aF739xC2hhQHmyjrLODOMEo-AosNLq6Sh9rel8W-1RSvafU4l5Ej53CtaRn7TexetN8FTwB_YHfN6QUfjr6iWMZpdf72CQ/s1209/20230825_153956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybTA5PL8FqAnZ9W_OmyFMem90AuWj3egRZvLLRz8IXiEaW4tN-kATfA9O7wpW0u4KMXNcH4KcOgqUWES0Bxs4y19hUiV63aF739xC2hhQHmyjrLODOMEo-AosNLq6Sh9rel8W-1RSvafU4l5Ej53CtaRn7TexetN8FTwB_YHfN6QUfjr6iWMZpdf72CQ/s320/20230825_153956.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3vEj546hVEVE6QiQCcORTSNniFEnPEI4M2EtRnI27DTlOSTbHFspADh2MWfEvil3enYEt5zpFpu5KDMkRgmTo0XRoF-2NCjhvAXTuTgUqyq4BC3I4jwViFRHW5LoOWRgch6BTTpqMRFh0TXZg5VMa9uADDrGRC1ssKLEd3harf_EULCUwaTBZlz3g4QU/s1209/20230825_154017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3vEj546hVEVE6QiQCcORTSNniFEnPEI4M2EtRnI27DTlOSTbHFspADh2MWfEvil3enYEt5zpFpu5KDMkRgmTo0XRoF-2NCjhvAXTuTgUqyq4BC3I4jwViFRHW5LoOWRgch6BTTpqMRFh0TXZg5VMa9uADDrGRC1ssKLEd3harf_EULCUwaTBZlz3g4QU/s320/20230825_154017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjcjhyj4b9jJDh7BVZVsvSfGnD1ythKKSjS42yhHN3qN2bOQEbCSe0vxGS9FvKJIuNkOIKoifNz9H3BUBKsKpEZtm_rTOAUR5y-3qA4zTg8YAYZBVVt8zcxUBDznKliHRt3SFEFL0Dq2kCyst5gSf3GmtcFWRcN97TywfpUKyyC16eNWN0EZRW93Zrp3o/s1209/20230825_154023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjcjhyj4b9jJDh7BVZVsvSfGnD1ythKKSjS42yhHN3qN2bOQEbCSe0vxGS9FvKJIuNkOIKoifNz9H3BUBKsKpEZtm_rTOAUR5y-3qA4zTg8YAYZBVVt8zcxUBDznKliHRt3SFEFL0Dq2kCyst5gSf3GmtcFWRcN97TywfpUKyyC16eNWN0EZRW93Zrp3o/s320/20230825_154023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPooygeQgXzplftstTfMUWRxbJjFVamhRklALYRJqJ8icmLEp9MdkHQYeB8eWdGCQN72Px0bKIeudqoulV3TldgQEMgvkLRCFxg_-dHpIYSajWsp7u9bPu_64OfhbpvCh9X8nvwnykRJJy3sP912u0JR97vZfvxfe93g1V_pKak6dOSDRl5VKBpZB8ZvQ/s1209/20230825_154050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPooygeQgXzplftstTfMUWRxbJjFVamhRklALYRJqJ8icmLEp9MdkHQYeB8eWdGCQN72Px0bKIeudqoulV3TldgQEMgvkLRCFxg_-dHpIYSajWsp7u9bPu_64OfhbpvCh9X8nvwnykRJJy3sP912u0JR97vZfvxfe93g1V_pKak6dOSDRl5VKBpZB8ZvQ/s320/20230825_154050.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">uno scoglio a forma di Baja California al contrario</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfifejzjT6Nf4jfw9gdTaAHSB-bz5l8q6k1AAiY1Py234FDbxl4WVcWwnnVZZNUmxVt8hanrcmkemaeL_5KF6wgq30WD6pPVaBzHAMetB96o217EwJb_MoHXGgFgQmAxi7RKJWUrM0PpLEdrGbBEMaQy8PwiO3vAFdcIJPHTaiT8boAJVL9IZgYLGQuO0/s1209/20230825_154350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfifejzjT6Nf4jfw9gdTaAHSB-bz5l8q6k1AAiY1Py234FDbxl4WVcWwnnVZZNUmxVt8hanrcmkemaeL_5KF6wgq30WD6pPVaBzHAMetB96o217EwJb_MoHXGgFgQmAxi7RKJWUrM0PpLEdrGbBEMaQy8PwiO3vAFdcIJPHTaiT8boAJVL9IZgYLGQuO0/s320/20230825_154350.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la finestra sul Pacifico</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Il punto più noto di Land's End è El Arco, una particolare formazione che mi ricorda tanto le scogliere di Vik, in Islanda. Con un clima più piacevole e adatto alla vita da mare, però, e una luce meno da oltretomba.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYC-Reqw7MKZ-jPFjifX9i094r_P2IRMbVX1NA4btum4en1SgvQNeAoqACx-vIYGkbC3tBcvE_n1_WBYvjcutQc_FznJKUFOAqeNKp8bpdXmDKfxHahF2XN7cg9C-p4xIcaBZbpoZM92wYpgWAm-8y3HYlI73Pp4EDtr9TLGjNKaaLZzW1ppPiip_XrXU/s1209/20230825_154539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYC-Reqw7MKZ-jPFjifX9i094r_P2IRMbVX1NA4btum4en1SgvQNeAoqACx-vIYGkbC3tBcvE_n1_WBYvjcutQc_FznJKUFOAqeNKp8bpdXmDKfxHahF2XN7cg9C-p4xIcaBZbpoZM92wYpgWAm-8y3HYlI73Pp4EDtr9TLGjNKaaLZzW1ppPiip_XrXU/s320/20230825_154539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqu5Ty62jJiPwrYojio3cf6kdMbVr7442Xt-n1rMAM4H9qcwjvNws8VrmUAXWh2sC4WGYqHeA0zMnrlMvj3jyPDN25hsBBGxfrn2Xxi1pd8-GBKFV-voY-TO49T0VAtV_2A569hDkpG86G0c5GgrUdBw1_R73uHuWbkxiRJFO0iql7Jw7dHbRehO1ODYQ/s1209/20230825_154939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqu5Ty62jJiPwrYojio3cf6kdMbVr7442Xt-n1rMAM4H9qcwjvNws8VrmUAXWh2sC4WGYqHeA0zMnrlMvj3jyPDN25hsBBGxfrn2Xxi1pd8-GBKFV-voY-TO49T0VAtV_2A569hDkpG86G0c5GgrUdBw1_R73uHuWbkxiRJFO0iql7Jw7dHbRehO1ODYQ/s320/20230825_154939.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp1YwXv1YcS0WTLL5lSw-Gf33UaTdsJKkJ9meUhSywJ_S3zd2b2UMS3beSY8KyBNj32SL7gC-yTjjn6xph6Vek9WrREqPF1N8DcGc2p_cov4jrmiFa04sfOjxhG6QpalgRe64CC7xGApUeVPxWZdF3q6k3D8fDwb3vWkDN0_-aSrcTfj4Efg4OH4I_FNg/s1209/20230825_155605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp1YwXv1YcS0WTLL5lSw-Gf33UaTdsJKkJ9meUhSywJ_S3zd2b2UMS3beSY8KyBNj32SL7gC-yTjjn6xph6Vek9WrREqPF1N8DcGc2p_cov4jrmiFa04sfOjxhG6QpalgRe64CC7xGApUeVPxWZdF3q6k3D8fDwb3vWkDN0_-aSrcTfj4Efg4OH4I_FNg/s320/20230825_155605.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la Playa del Divorcio</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLY-BZQ0VRqxXFzIjnFW1BxVvKUorUFE2upm0Kwws3zGm1sJPUmwmfUxynHPMcXxSXCQAcbgD7GS3DMq-t6LsdyWZH1d1sR4hcHK1C4QH3TUcYqWBMJQCKpbuDTY7W6eLpR0BXCZ-j4a3erLqQcuJ1ZytLZt6sZbTtsgFuJZAn9bjqKGHfg3w0YUhKVs/s1209/20230825_155615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLY-BZQ0VRqxXFzIjnFW1BxVvKUorUFE2upm0Kwws3zGm1sJPUmwmfUxynHPMcXxSXCQAcbgD7GS3DMq-t6LsdyWZH1d1sR4hcHK1C4QH3TUcYqWBMJQCKpbuDTY7W6eLpR0BXCZ-j4a3erLqQcuJ1ZytLZt6sZbTtsgFuJZAn9bjqKGHfg3w0YUhKVs/s320/20230825_155615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiwTWOCgwQ880dXE-uTYQdXNwBM5Wco2qUgfuyUzf1P93IbBDxqf-T23SmVvHgngNNNjq9IsMU00OFKUZ14eZvlbebXG7RWMi8YWU7PJP_fHvtyRuPa-NlxxUkoSRSWcljc2n8CozybGTvXn0C5UYBJ_KDikQ5bseC_BzbF40K_F_q9z34FAG9bvkiYpg/s1209/20230825_155634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiwTWOCgwQ880dXE-uTYQdXNwBM5Wco2qUgfuyUzf1P93IbBDxqf-T23SmVvHgngNNNjq9IsMU00OFKUZ14eZvlbebXG7RWMi8YWU7PJP_fHvtyRuPa-NlxxUkoSRSWcljc2n8CozybGTvXn0C5UYBJ_KDikQ5bseC_BzbF40K_F_q9z34FAG9bvkiYpg/s320/20230825_155634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Tra meraviglie di roccia, giochi di luce sul pelo dell'acqua e una fauna ricchissima, il tempo vola, tanto più che il nostro nocchiero ama fare manovre sconsiderate e abbastanza spaventose tra le onde e gli scogli aguzzi. Assistiamo alla partenza di una nave da crociera (qui fanno sosta un giorno), annunciato dalle sirene, e torniamo in porto. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUwTkXiw2Av4KgyPQstSLg-T_FL6XjpdgpJfhDXIZ7opxacvOdnyMkP5UrrUKs4CBOvQxoOymgGDzpfgq-v6-FzndxuGxTIavtnVuBEiZ7iiks1FJTxMjQuOHtjuoPRIHi0g26B1CSYkpJkUMkE4crJo6kOVIrH-uQtnnm5ml6cA3U5m5pohYQvjVYUMk/s1209/20230825_160120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUwTkXiw2Av4KgyPQstSLg-T_FL6XjpdgpJfhDXIZ7opxacvOdnyMkP5UrrUKs4CBOvQxoOymgGDzpfgq-v6-FzndxuGxTIavtnVuBEiZ7iiks1FJTxMjQuOHtjuoPRIHi0g26B1CSYkpJkUMkE4crJo6kOVIrH-uQtnnm5ml6cA3U5m5pohYQvjVYUMk/s320/20230825_160120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiw-8YWcL4u5_uXkuXBtuJcqtYn-Tc9yS6EY2BdNZO2mgtL3RZViOjl2HzIU4onMIoa9IMZflMIRhlMgsu-9tzjv_b4pPs5QmPohH9zezdaogNvU1Zfy1ABYRRSf48xV7JsS1AVwa6QjMhsoPCl8K5a3zDFFQVSujMSDynhyf55qjY-B8y6yybaEoSkUc/s1209/20230825_161335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiw-8YWcL4u5_uXkuXBtuJcqtYn-Tc9yS6EY2BdNZO2mgtL3RZViOjl2HzIU4onMIoa9IMZflMIRhlMgsu-9tzjv_b4pPs5QmPohH9zezdaogNvU1Zfy1ABYRRSf48xV7JsS1AVwa6QjMhsoPCl8K5a3zDFFQVSujMSDynhyf55qjY-B8y6yybaEoSkUc/s320/20230825_161335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2LFcC-cwDjoTtQI_I1tWfgtv089bEqrXLFEiE4gnOmJSZF0Tr69OxQ3u_zS78HOxsZJNn5xOf1Fs2kHPABiBK864pbhA4hVTDEZJZndi5z-hOIV_dAr9dTu83voi-AeGWDkkPuZxBEPc715DFQ-cOT7io04zcwa1famAbdjPiNOVsR91j9eIvpNsqm_s/s1209/20230825_161628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2LFcC-cwDjoTtQI_I1tWfgtv089bEqrXLFEiE4gnOmJSZF0Tr69OxQ3u_zS78HOxsZJNn5xOf1Fs2kHPABiBK864pbhA4hVTDEZJZndi5z-hOIV_dAr9dTu83voi-AeGWDkkPuZxBEPc715DFQ-cOT7io04zcwa1famAbdjPiNOVsR91j9eIvpNsqm_s/s320/20230825_161628.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Siccome è ancora presto, dopo aver superato i locali con musica a palla e i ristoranti dove cucinano il pesce che i turisti pescano, andiamo in spiaggia a goderci un po' di onde, io, e relax, Gigi. Molte spiagge hanno degli ombrelloni pubblici, a disposizione di tutti. Non mancano comunque gli ambulanti che affittano ombrelloni e sdraio, vendono collanine, bevande fresche, cibarie miste e cocchi affettati al momento con il machete.</div><div>La sabbia è meravigliosa, pulita come l'acqua, cristallina, tiepida, perfetta. Le onde sono basse e si può nuotare, cosa che non manco di fare, per esplorare le calette. Ci sono diversi bagnanti, ma non c'è confusione e lo spazio non manca. Insomma, si sta bene!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Pwmhdpb-Dyp0AECow9N17hUBYtYmYawmr9O9D4CbKAfj9ycQmenytQfAKDHG5JiZu_6Q_VWqQDAB_mU-lJMZm-Yof_rTVnr2uO0xtQs_XfF9ENJDWoPQX2Gdj-08kyyx4Vl7qZ5N4hBPGfBaDPdHte_elJGULNhSI1FGyc0AblmzY7qdy0Duw_dUIJE/s979/20230825_163229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Pwmhdpb-Dyp0AECow9N17hUBYtYmYawmr9O9D4CbKAfj9ycQmenytQfAKDHG5JiZu_6Q_VWqQDAB_mU-lJMZm-Yof_rTVnr2uO0xtQs_XfF9ENJDWoPQX2Gdj-08kyyx4Vl7qZ5N4hBPGfBaDPdHte_elJGULNhSI1FGyc0AblmzY7qdy0Duw_dUIJE/s320/20230825_163229.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYLupLWE6dP_OBEnFp5dk28G_AqAthke7n4jp4f68aKAKdGwc-pH5rhLVFS3dM-qHLeZbxfDCDXtJHc-4wlImY-yvlr6SD8yFIwimh--HMi1yvUm5O6irPP0l2WB_TVgnw1oKJge4yEKW7w1vrX0AWQK9GCnh_Jo2Lu6HbG0IyWrA-waV3fIVSD8zkIQ/s1193/20230825_163247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="895" data-original-width="1193" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYLupLWE6dP_OBEnFp5dk28G_AqAthke7n4jp4f68aKAKdGwc-pH5rhLVFS3dM-qHLeZbxfDCDXtJHc-4wlImY-yvlr6SD8yFIwimh--HMi1yvUm5O6irPP0l2WB_TVgnw1oKJge4yEKW7w1vrX0AWQK9GCnh_Jo2Lu6HbG0IyWrA-waV3fIVSD8zkIQ/s320/20230825_163247.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwg07-GaVvcRP25yc43pSU7imhGb5wKupbe2QHvLfddcfA8ZY-i54MncgfpCASZAWCsdYbMkL3C1jkBMjULrmC53XL9y5ovxzcv4loO5jCQgphqDluU4xyYm0fpAf9tgnEQCuci_Xjh5yFhU_l0oPQD4eslBwnj-AJW69_1NRgHyoqfIZrHQeuBwSnrc/s1173/20230825_163250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="880" data-original-width="1173" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwg07-GaVvcRP25yc43pSU7imhGb5wKupbe2QHvLfddcfA8ZY-i54MncgfpCASZAWCsdYbMkL3C1jkBMjULrmC53XL9y5ovxzcv4loO5jCQgphqDluU4xyYm0fpAf9tgnEQCuci_Xjh5yFhU_l0oPQD4eslBwnj-AJW69_1NRgHyoqfIZrHQeuBwSnrc/s320/20230825_163250.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHQonAGsxLc031fkkljm_Q0G3xMdkpDbOnM4HWP69E9BHXUPFtx2ThqGgAWlBlkh7lIoWagnyr3EGrp3PKXu_XIwdH-MdSiAaK6sYKsepHP2hmluc-BnwbPyrfnt__Mfkv94gJcOTt5T2X9Ujz-xB-7_7kalMO9wo52NGX4rJkG7XHD6jywXDbTo4pCQ/s1209/20230825_163359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHQonAGsxLc031fkkljm_Q0G3xMdkpDbOnM4HWP69E9BHXUPFtx2ThqGgAWlBlkh7lIoWagnyr3EGrp3PKXu_XIwdH-MdSiAaK6sYKsepHP2hmluc-BnwbPyrfnt__Mfkv94gJcOTt5T2X9Ujz-xB-7_7kalMO9wo52NGX4rJkG7XHD6jywXDbTo4pCQ/s320/20230825_163359.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TnYOjQWXeZUqMHiJJD6uiNTXjo2APLrsw7h8LhRHhTXhhX-brVczhYXIsta1BKwJ4qRiL3G9jpvTm7YRo8yWhSDZ29KQKs4_yaJFf9xS-G8d7TG_Wg_eixB3YhiS11nEWfA99cJ7ZIBVNlG7I19dVM0etD05cPA2u_shAGx3jMJ-YBlD1fCtLIjKRW4/s1209/20230825_163541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TnYOjQWXeZUqMHiJJD6uiNTXjo2APLrsw7h8LhRHhTXhhX-brVczhYXIsta1BKwJ4qRiL3G9jpvTm7YRo8yWhSDZ29KQKs4_yaJFf9xS-G8d7TG_Wg_eixB3YhiS11nEWfA99cJ7ZIBVNlG7I19dVM0etD05cPA2u_shAGx3jMJ-YBlD1fCtLIjKRW4/s320/20230825_163541.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Quando ormai il sole è basso e le ombre allungano le dita sulla spiaggia, torniamo in ostello. Rientrando facciamo la spesa, e, dopo la doccia, ci concediamo una bella cenetta in compagnia degli altri ospiti. Ripeto, si sta bene!<div><br /></div><div>Domani è la penultima tappa. E' tutto pronto e organizzato, in modo che ci si possa godere appieno queste ultime manciate di kilometri in terra messicana, che tanto ci ha regalato.<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /> </div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-71055046771559337972023-08-23T08:16:00.005+02:002023-08-23T08:17:29.654+02:0059-62. Dal continente alla Baja California Sur! Oceano, deserto, foreste secolari di cactus e serpenti a sonagli<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Mu226NnaTaP-Vh0EZywcto__gRzd9o1QqAHrNpyjDrksQy6XdK16hnmyAf5nGcCPVSRcP_LYzid6IbR7dTKQadJBq2GoQj6YQN9MUHUmQr5SvnAmpY_uxZLZ85TPJsDYd5Oc5LnAip3YinOx0RInd1DrhH7mA6ASb7_ha5YLVZh1LqKKEkdv-VY-AOs/s1209/20230822_135540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Mu226NnaTaP-Vh0EZywcto__gRzd9o1QqAHrNpyjDrksQy6XdK16hnmyAf5nGcCPVSRcP_LYzid6IbR7dTKQadJBq2GoQj6YQN9MUHUmQr5SvnAmpY_uxZLZ85TPJsDYd5Oc5LnAip3YinOx0RInd1DrhH7mA6ASb7_ha5YLVZh1LqKKEkdv-VY-AOs/w640-h480/20230822_135540.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwwQAWLAjhiPhetIbSOhwzAtWKlZRgGQX9SIiPJxnmtRB7zQJdDTBzkGW96IaFD0iryWJThhlBDLR-DTT5N0edmDITMtdi03m_Fitak4qtr69EIkR5PRw4Ay4mvmkgmE20felivq_ehSEsL7Ghbc4d1fKwZQEZzc89KXe9G1jWCopLKZ7F1bRjyv6282c/s1210/20230822_103615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPWiZJ4FWbnoD7HnKL3LXReqxzgZr6H36qHsNSAvt5OjbwrBlxr-OUTBdi85j0YVBcHYw15SjWgvB1egzyRdzrimWbU1R3K3Do8r_U0tokmFRysxoeJm1VMyOoNGjUfqh_9_Le0NwXa68MgSBPMKrZbXB-RMi-3f3osThLv_pPICkTB-vg8N_p7xlI4ME/s1209/20230822_183410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPWiZJ4FWbnoD7HnKL3LXReqxzgZr6H36qHsNSAvt5OjbwrBlxr-OUTBdi85j0YVBcHYw15SjWgvB1egzyRdzrimWbU1R3K3Do8r_U0tokmFRysxoeJm1VMyOoNGjUfqh_9_Le0NwXa68MgSBPMKrZbXB-RMi-3f3osThLv_pPICkTB-vg8N_p7xlI4ME/s320/20230822_183410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>19/8<div>Escuinapa de Hidalgo-Mazatlàn</div><div>95km</div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi è il gran giorno! L'ultima tappa della nostra trans-México continentale. Dopo quasi 4000km di pedalate tra coste e monti, tra due oceani, giungla, vulcani e metropoli immense, arriviamo ora all'orlo estremo di questa bella terra. Da qui dovremo prendere la via del mare, e imbarcarci, noi e le bici, per attraversare il Golfo di California e sbarcare sull'ultimo stato del nostro viaggio, la Baja Sur. Uragano Hilary permettendo, ovviamente! Dopo 84 anni che una tempesta tropicale non lambiva queste zone, aride e desertiche, ecco che il maltempo attendeva giusto noi per mettersi di mezzo. L'imbarco è stato posticipato di 24 ore, quindi avremo un giorno in più da trascorrere a Mazatlan. Poco male: è una bella cittadina turistica di mare, non sarà difficile trovare qualcosa di bello da fare!</div><div><br /></div><div>Ma prima dobbiamo arrivarci, e anche oggi son quasi 100km di colline e saliscendi, perchè che la costa sia pianeggiante è una grande menzogna che ci siamo raccontati, è una pia illusione. Noi, animali delle terre basse, bestie padane, abbiamo un'immagine deformata dell'orografia. E qui di pianura in senso proprio non ce n'è, se non per brevi tratti. Possiamo dire, ecco, che non è montagna. Le salite non portano in quota, e non sono mai più lunghe di qualche centinaio di metri.</div><div><br /></div><div>Patiamo con calma, senza aver puntato la sveglia. La consapevolezza di avere poi due giorni di sosta (uno forzato, l'altro di navigazione) ci fa muovere lenti e tranquilli. In più oggi io sto BENE, bene davvero, per la prima volta dopo dieci giorni di malesseri più o meno gravi, dolorosi e impattanti. </div><div>Quando usciamo il sole è già rovente e l'umidità tremenda. Già portar giù bici e borse dalle due rampe di scale costringe a un bagno di sudore che rende perennemente collosi e unti. Mai come in questo viaggio ho avuto la sensazione di essere lercia e puzzolente... Probabilmente perchè lo sono. </div><div><br /></div><div>Escuinapa si sta mettendo in moto; non c'è traffico, ma gli ambulanti e i negozianti stanno aprendo bottega. L'aria è densa di profumo di fritto (gamberoni, ovviamente) ed è tutto un alzar saracinesche e richiamare i clienti ai tamales e al cafecito de olla.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKGgHPT2v79y4_FBC4-RYqzhikCPz_9Xq_ZMLu0GF-aq7G_Ad0meW8vdCCbOYVlmYFrwPGyVnHx5NxO1-NuLPfKCrGX6AQze8KFk2WsobWvEaPWYm8XtYhr3VZA_Ar_vLVQBzzuww52ZEjaGCPy4gm19vxYj8rCp34cimvft2PQECpuRz8AYF86EenKs/s1209/20230819_083657.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKGgHPT2v79y4_FBC4-RYqzhikCPz_9Xq_ZMLu0GF-aq7G_Ad0meW8vdCCbOYVlmYFrwPGyVnHx5NxO1-NuLPfKCrGX6AQze8KFk2WsobWvEaPWYm8XtYhr3VZA_Ar_vLVQBzzuww52ZEjaGCPy4gm19vxYj8rCp34cimvft2PQECpuRz8AYF86EenKs/s320/20230819_083657.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxsm4kfoUaFWXVNfRWNY17Yp1ndgdCh9EMscihiBtOvvX4FF5TRnmUb7AdDvfkw8RjB1FDzFaqXUNq2Na2LZioI7tye9sWyHYWFyNKHjWluPEFDypkxnWCq9-YwF47HUwyQJ0W3UTa4vxSvwitjNhDoBz3MDnsbFs2Tedkc170-urgyEEAZdQAkQQ-M-U/s1209/20230819_083713.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxsm4kfoUaFWXVNfRWNY17Yp1ndgdCh9EMscihiBtOvvX4FF5TRnmUb7AdDvfkw8RjB1FDzFaqXUNq2Na2LZioI7tye9sWyHYWFyNKHjWluPEFDypkxnWCq9-YwF47HUwyQJ0W3UTa4vxSvwitjNhDoBz3MDnsbFs2Tedkc170-urgyEEAZdQAkQQ-M-U/s320/20230819_083713.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di uscire dal paese facciamo un salto nella piazza centrale, che ieri sera abbiamo intravisto di sfuggita. C'è infatti un interessante monumento alla bicicletta, con tanto di scultura realizzata da un artista locale e abbellita con fiori e lucine. Il pannello informativo spiega che la bicicletta è un mezzo di trasporto tradizionale degli abitanti del paese, e rappresenta una forma di identità culturale, nonchè una proposta per il futuro. Hai capito? Sono avanti questi ragazzi! In effetti la bici, che pure non gode di gran fama fuori dalle città, è un mezzo molto usato per i piccoli spostamenti nei pueblos e nelle campagne; sicuramente più che negli USA! Sarà che costa poco e serve metterci benzina... Ma la coscienza si sta creando, e l'abitudine storica è consolidata: ora mancano solo le infrastrutture (ma il governo è troppo impegnato a devastare la penisola dello Yucatan con il suo tren maya...).</div><div>Foto di rito alla bici, alle litras gigantes, alla piazza con il mercato in apertura (da cui esala un odore di gamberi non proprio freschi che ammazza pure le mosche) e via.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdoRnxi68xdyKMgyrfExlQj1-3VG-Gi6W2lU4SRf1eqegqA4F796u5FIeSn1a6hwVdfiHqvpobiy7pGlr39WkcPiAzeF45kE79w3nQAwGGbSlWGvCaXK8Y6qZnjJkorLf0Mw9bJVQAAiEKpW4RLF_hu0Rbw4jyA5VYViP-dxtHc9mEuaPN5a5X1Ry5OF4/s1209/20230819_083907.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdoRnxi68xdyKMgyrfExlQj1-3VG-Gi6W2lU4SRf1eqegqA4F796u5FIeSn1a6hwVdfiHqvpobiy7pGlr39WkcPiAzeF45kE79w3nQAwGGbSlWGvCaXK8Y6qZnjJkorLf0Mw9bJVQAAiEKpW4RLF_hu0Rbw4jyA5VYViP-dxtHc9mEuaPN5a5X1Ry5OF4/s320/20230819_083907.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1YpAyTlK8KcjDKQWA8xRkGAOLI19-A0tu9PYQJFFBEgBzw5LCbbo-rtI65GYVjiuLCCkgIHXds8HfM7JNZ6deheRNisX4OQuiqNjyP6ufV1IDZqNMTxnkauSPxrF0wZI3eIowiXNPNfrWHIOG3j_-Rg84a4Y34GyiaJ46dFtdbbAl2fohs-vYKsWSCH8/s1209/20230819_084117.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1YpAyTlK8KcjDKQWA8xRkGAOLI19-A0tu9PYQJFFBEgBzw5LCbbo-rtI65GYVjiuLCCkgIHXds8HfM7JNZ6deheRNisX4OQuiqNjyP6ufV1IDZqNMTxnkauSPxrF0wZI3eIowiXNPNfrWHIOG3j_-Rg84a4Y34GyiaJ46dFtdbbAl2fohs-vYKsWSCH8/s320/20230819_084117.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tWJSfJx_uUyduZYODB2fk0pT4C8NEvhkaKhCMX2CspCrri8N5ndRZLrughSfYg5HgQNiUyprMXGiyP-NxK4zzmuLSeZxXU5zypHib4h6134FTt2HLdFKm7Ne1TVk7HrE809kPNlptHE5gs4-nwF7NeaBQNZGLGFcI9tMNfavuPKr7flNlCNMkfXizI0/s1209/20230819_084125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tWJSfJx_uUyduZYODB2fk0pT4C8NEvhkaKhCMX2CspCrri8N5ndRZLrughSfYg5HgQNiUyprMXGiyP-NxK4zzmuLSeZxXU5zypHib4h6134FTt2HLdFKm7Ne1TVk7HrE809kPNlptHE5gs4-nwF7NeaBQNZGLGFcI9tMNfavuPKr7flNlCNMkfXizI0/s320/20230819_084125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRPZY4YLf-xTli5hP47331hNaQXLXc6WILI_LM0x7WBvSxrphKnypsw242Kc1gf4CpQzno8fals0101Pr12tH0UEVjiDyVf03GOQ99SxEVOCQ6LmP1zp_BqjXrzVpcizGRZ1zryZ1G-0JOArVEWTOPiBzEOqBDYDL3U0nfN01G1kt19yrIwgyBhbCweFc/s1209/20230819_084733.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRPZY4YLf-xTli5hP47331hNaQXLXc6WILI_LM0x7WBvSxrphKnypsw242Kc1gf4CpQzno8fals0101Pr12tH0UEVjiDyVf03GOQ99SxEVOCQ6LmP1zp_BqjXrzVpcizGRZ1zryZ1G-0JOArVEWTOPiBzEOqBDYDL3U0nfN01G1kt19yrIwgyBhbCweFc/s320/20230819_084733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Come temevamo, la menzogna della pianura costiera si ripropone anche oggi con un'infilata di ordini di colline che, viste dall'alto paiono le grinze di una tovaglia spiegazzata. Le gambe sono ormai abituate, ma il caldo umido, sulle rampe a salire, è insopportabile, da coccolone immediato. Le discese invece sono un balsamo di aria fresca, un tuffo di linfa. Perchè intorno è tutto verdissimo, tra piantagioni di mango, pascoli dove ruminano placide mucche enormi e macchie di selva spontanea.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8QMS3x4bqahPuQkMZQOekg9O_8aw2B9SS3nxgOxI6LZMbxeKwqVY1ENCeJkTdrFFlHfblGhl6O6bC9Da-oa7nVzMEGvgz-Lx9CRyfOaYg0YGyR2YCBChm3_FxQveX8rNlteTl1xRpL64bLqjNj81TRLzlYchmF8i_b4PREgrrFglpKyZ1DuwvEIqfEg/s1209/20230819_090639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8QMS3x4bqahPuQkMZQOekg9O_8aw2B9SS3nxgOxI6LZMbxeKwqVY1ENCeJkTdrFFlHfblGhl6O6bC9Da-oa7nVzMEGvgz-Lx9CRyfOaYg0YGyR2YCBChm3_FxQveX8rNlteTl1xRpL64bLqjNj81TRLzlYchmF8i_b4PREgrrFglpKyZ1DuwvEIqfEg/s320/20230819_090639.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64oT9ScTReiVLoY-L46JQql5FiVU18kpq1Fg1tJ-g6Sn4XjdktrmsyhrXzzMGZzyalZxcm7HzD7ilUA8Jev0a9XNZCJI2wSlwoOrELTPW86aLtw0vG4fbM4K830aAA6P4t77gniJBU42bGc8JuXHQF4y3DuA19qeE-Pqhjclu4f73AIogggDovZGWLuo/s1209/20230819_090721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64oT9ScTReiVLoY-L46JQql5FiVU18kpq1Fg1tJ-g6Sn4XjdktrmsyhrXzzMGZzyalZxcm7HzD7ilUA8Jev0a9XNZCJI2wSlwoOrELTPW86aLtw0vG4fbM4K830aAA6P4t77gniJBU42bGc8JuXHQF4y3DuA19qeE-Pqhjclu4f73AIogggDovZGWLuo/s320/20230819_090721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyqzCAmfL0unokprnKpanqvY8W7ehv0mKjeeRxqyb82XkdyoWHbCg-B8PhuliVRQgckyXZw8hGYLY1jNvMJ-Fsl1JEoLBBJEYzcydZynaRV8OzhQhgEBFIAyYtPEQOo57A4qW0ssUY5O8-_9_O6saZ83Ea98mZOHtEK74Sp8K9v5iwUZwj4yJE1q5M0G8/s1209/20230819_090818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyqzCAmfL0unokprnKpanqvY8W7ehv0mKjeeRxqyb82XkdyoWHbCg-B8PhuliVRQgckyXZw8hGYLY1jNvMJ-Fsl1JEoLBBJEYzcydZynaRV8OzhQhgEBFIAyYtPEQOo57A4qW0ssUY5O8-_9_O6saZ83Ea98mZOHtEK74Sp8K9v5iwUZwj4yJE1q5M0G8/s320/20230819_090818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6s86ZsN1C7tyvX_YRDCk42SYhgrB9mXbg8zkbn3jwFWfebN6vXE-B7XnL-rVAw85YjugFAcETgVncLVHcMpTesiEOOVWKdsRGAJUz5UknIHVZ5oiV0W2W9H6bLZ0Ho8hxi5EeA0RmvPkaC7VL_F3ksxh600ZZMpezDjuyhSAynpfOyx4mAF1A2k_Yh-o/s320/20230819_090850(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHG5YqzcZFKmeBQ35G64EMcXDAANkG2tukXRRf6F42QV3fJjnLtikCxZY-CK8B7EN6SN3EYJCEso-9DVsxTfXmKNilfHvzLc8T0AXlVFDUxHSKhS8qbNgi3Z7I2qMFzwtF_wP2i_eCJkIumRk__feJ0-90hIkkDHXZFDRstkzDXoy3FUZFTMtWcv7RK8k/s1209/20230819_094625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHG5YqzcZFKmeBQ35G64EMcXDAANkG2tukXRRf6F42QV3fJjnLtikCxZY-CK8B7EN6SN3EYJCEso-9DVsxTfXmKNilfHvzLc8T0AXlVFDUxHSKhS8qbNgi3Z7I2qMFzwtF_wP2i_eCJkIumRk__feJ0-90hIkkDHXZFDRstkzDXoy3FUZFTMtWcv7RK8k/s320/20230819_094625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL9bKv8cNxw9V1fcb4g80JF3O459CtiqtluajQJjaE9fZlXQIWMRbM0NfnkzTnXmYkw8t-FLC3Gj1K4Ft4jtnx1hXQ669C4pgHhGY047p57YT6kCuoESXIN3h5Vtjd00B6sVE2eCyz0EdLAZ80gu23Uc2oTHqFXYb7RvCf8QoJON-qjJqBPPvMkrpGoAY/s320/20230819_105029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAaXaGeoRwzcFrt3Cr22Luv6ZMDJRFl2Y8JyuDsnsrd7MwyMqhNQH8zwJVk4PnYo59-2zrABzYwqdtlYH5mli1ZwiHEjUC1AMAcBRmPdwErIdE7UnZyFODoFcokn_5CWZrmiQMxf92Fr1lccvlk-Sban4bnnX5MDG4W9vqI-4iFklHtNAael9dJJ315Nk/s1209/20230819_105301.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAaXaGeoRwzcFrt3Cr22Luv6ZMDJRFl2Y8JyuDsnsrd7MwyMqhNQH8zwJVk4PnYo59-2zrABzYwqdtlYH5mli1ZwiHEjUC1AMAcBRmPdwErIdE7UnZyFODoFcokn_5CWZrmiQMxf92Fr1lccvlk-Sban4bnnX5MDG4W9vqI-4iFklHtNAael9dJJ315Nk/s320/20230819_105301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh---yHunpLbjORVDIQbHv7j0i8tdPzaaVBDKlm1TI5FtkUlYlCAb78DAol_tiIgsdMYaMAg1yqjt8y86HOf-yqBDnOySNn51hhD6zHaPKKmPZyQiNBQ-2L_ChvD8YpkSpi77nSyrwYnAnUnY1VJ8qEeqo8cSBUgSyyC6MSY7LWsf5VnIXV3k5zaW28kt4/s1209/20230819_112313.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh---yHunpLbjORVDIQbHv7j0i8tdPzaaVBDKlm1TI5FtkUlYlCAb78DAol_tiIgsdMYaMAg1yqjt8y86HOf-yqBDnOySNn51hhD6zHaPKKmPZyQiNBQ-2L_ChvD8YpkSpi77nSyrwYnAnUnY1VJ8qEeqo8cSBUgSyyC6MSY7LWsf5VnIXV3k5zaW28kt4/s320/20230819_112313.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Di città ne incrociamo ben poche, anzi, una sola: El Rosario, con la sua frazione dal nome curioso, La Entrada a microondas (11 abitanti... Gli altri si sono cotti). In compenso ci sono numerosi gruppetti di baracche sparsi agli incroci delle strade che vanno tra entroterra e costa; sono abitazioni con adiacente comedor o negozietto, annegati nella polvere o nel fango, a seconda di quanto piove. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZSadfAETfOtEMcaPKYRSN6iJpvU2VEkkrq6ibhLp_JzD3lW-abnCxo_RujwbaS_VP1TObqB43SbZjlbBS9FDE5AYbwWHaDUhgMQhIXwmDP06c8r4Qvu0Z7KsLRAjHbxz9XCIzkxN10vsY2RoI-4WQXoCXTmsd2-0goj1ObglK7BhTMKKx_XXei1u5ww/s1209/20230819_132836.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZSadfAETfOtEMcaPKYRSN6iJpvU2VEkkrq6ibhLp_JzD3lW-abnCxo_RujwbaS_VP1TObqB43SbZjlbBS9FDE5AYbwWHaDUhgMQhIXwmDP06c8r4Qvu0Z7KsLRAjHbxz9XCIzkxN10vsY2RoI-4WQXoCXTmsd2-0goj1ObglK7BhTMKKx_XXei1u5ww/s320/20230819_132836.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMxTdXza4a_b09p3rAksJu4Ei3uwSU9fuOtZkQioObn8ZTOad0NwoL5kQILOQScFX16PgxSqmLYPDQJeIYeRn-5QlkHWJZU8zuorTiGpukD1UnPXgdzBBdjb8FtGdZGb0SPuO4Sbdk8Kp2sRyHfoHzs54H1aY-UvpYLMsa-Mnz_SmoCKldF4F9VxI0fzg/s1209/20230819_132839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMxTdXza4a_b09p3rAksJu4Ei3uwSU9fuOtZkQioObn8ZTOad0NwoL5kQILOQScFX16PgxSqmLYPDQJeIYeRn-5QlkHWJZU8zuorTiGpukD1UnPXgdzBBdjb8FtGdZGb0SPuO4Sbdk8Kp2sRyHfoHzs54H1aY-UvpYLMsa-Mnz_SmoCKldF4F9VxI0fzg/s320/20230819_132839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBpYtwKK7CIcYt-7_87AiBbQPPOXNAns_UIYFyJHni3eBqJ0nPufbWVqI9kTI3XJb7bwuyMI1yTzR3sz1EZyCk1RgO0KqzeaYqdQW_5VuGZKe8T9dN-x-9ngYNeN4fJt7e6IhY82ENOFTPbNl3JZ-L5h2SIDdntlB8aP9F8QSx_76-bsCfVr6KHZxV0U/s1209/20230819_132848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBpYtwKK7CIcYt-7_87AiBbQPPOXNAns_UIYFyJHni3eBqJ0nPufbWVqI9kTI3XJb7bwuyMI1yTzR3sz1EZyCk1RgO0KqzeaYqdQW_5VuGZKe8T9dN-x-9ngYNeN4fJt7e6IhY82ENOFTPbNl3JZ-L5h2SIDdntlB8aP9F8QSx_76-bsCfVr6KHZxV0U/s320/20230819_132848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noi facciamo solo una breve sosta benzinaio/supermercato, dove incrociamo un paio di bimbi incuriositi dalle bici, che non riescono a staccar gli occhi dai nostri potenti mezzi, e un elegantissimo messicano che ci parla un po' in inglese e un po' in spagnolo, e ci consiglia un ristorante di pesce a Villa Union, che dista una ventina di km; dice che è un pueblo di pescatori e tutto il cibo è freschissimo e costa poco, e la gente fa anche tre ore di auto per andare a mangiar lì, e c'è sempre una gran coda. Non fosse che un pranzo del genere ci impedirebbe di proseguire, sarebbe un'idea allettante. Nei pochi minuti di conversazione riusciamo, nell'ordine, a essere punti da insetti simili alle nostre forbicette, ma più grossi, che lasciano bubboni dolorosissimi, a renderci conto che Gigi ha forato ANCORA (è l'undicesima volta!) e a litigare perchè Gigi teme che l'uragano si abbatta su di noi, quando è evidente che non sarà così. Ma la paura è irrazionale e fomentata dalla stanchezza, e io non ho modo di disinnescarla. Insomma, una sosta che ci stressa più che farci riposare. Ripartiamo e il vento è un poco girato a nostro favore. Ne approfittiamo per tirare dritti fino alla nostra meta, Mazatlan. Passiamo dalla trafficata Villa Union, che un tempo era la città vera e propria del porto di Mazatlan, che, appunto, era solo un attracco e rimessa di navi. Questa cittadina è patria di poeti, scrittori e linguisti, ricordati da targhe commemorative. Non ne conosco nemmeno uno, ma mi riprometto di rimediare a questa lacuna.</div><div>Gli ultimi 20km sono abbastanza impestati di traffico, soprattutto di mezzi pesanti. Autostrada e statale corrono unite, e la presenza del porto mercantile fa sì che tanto trasporto su gomma transiti di qui, in arrivo e in uscita. Oltretutto per raggiungere il centro storico di Mazatlan, dove abbiamo prenotato l'albergo, dobbiamo attraversare alcuni quartieri non proprio raccomandabili. Veniamo apostrofati in molti modi coloriti dai passanti e da chi ci affianca e supera in auto e in motorino. Non raccolgo mai, anzi, mantengo un'espressione impassibile, da mohai di pietra, perchè non mi sembrano personcine con cui sia bello aprire un dibattito su inclusività, rispetto e incontro di culture. Quei tatuaggi da narcogangster in faccia e ovunque, e le espressioni ottuse e violente, me lo fanno presagire. Auguro solo loro di trovarsi nello stesso disagio che ci procurano, ma per più tempo, e con meno mezzi per affrontarlo.</div><div><br /></div><div>Tra un gringo e un camaron, arriviamo così nel tranquillissimo centro storico di Mazatlan, che è bello davvero, ed è popolato più da statunitensi che da messicani. E' il ghetto bianco, praticamente. L'uomo della reception è straultrafatto di marijuana, motivo per cui fare check in richiede un lungo tempo. Lui inserisce i dati, sbaglia, ride, si dimentica cosa stia facendo, ride ancora, poi cerca di rimettersi in ordine, sbaglia ancora, ride tantissimo. Alla fine non riesce a far nulla, gli caccio in mano i contanti e cerchiamo di entrare in camera, dove lui ci ha preceduti per accendere la tv a tutto volume e il condizionatore a livello Polo Sud. Forse così vuole darci l'idea di entrare in casa... Peccato si dimentichi di darci le chiavi, e sparisca, per ricomparire gran tempo dopo ancora più fatto. Oh sant'uomo! Che fatica! Però è gentile e si offre anche di occuparsi del nostro bucato. Glielo lasciamo, dopo altre lunghe attese e risatone, temendo di non veder tornare mai più i nostri preziosi straccetti. Se tutto va bene, la prossima lavatrice la faremo a casa.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo una doccia e un giro panoramico del terrazzo, siamo pronti per esplorare la cittadina. Anche perchè la sete ci divora, e non abbiamo più nemmeno una goccia d'acqua. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbJ1F5lnLFI3ZG4qLBX_6-VPrfde8sg4Ct6UMvvtAiv4C8-u2mKriEYP0hOYD83ksi0TjCCAcamtTgsAPwdaM7HqA9FqK7npon77hWqn0nfDNzUTHUzuTCNmkUU0L3dcoz19in_TEzU4RnMUREuvUtGlTs_NnabpAnDV49RXNv6ZXtqJagXXMeInk7dQ/s1209/20230819_152316.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQbJ1F5lnLFI3ZG4qLBX_6-VPrfde8sg4Ct6UMvvtAiv4C8-u2mKriEYP0hOYD83ksi0TjCCAcamtTgsAPwdaM7HqA9FqK7npon77hWqn0nfDNzUTHUzuTCNmkUU0L3dcoz19in_TEzU4RnMUREuvUtGlTs_NnabpAnDV49RXNv6ZXtqJagXXMeInk7dQ/s320/20230819_152316.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oWFdZ20xT66D99RFAKdxmuqAwZzPwKpZcYxcYlV1XX2QpSyHo26MQFhhyFouo3Pe87foWDIRjXUbBOdUcU_aeSxD0d0aJ-5uzNN9KzVjF72dxI6yk0ELp1z2cV0Ioi0MaCw6via4rvsdC2UT3JBnYFdbLH_P8wckVBm_8h1ZSiLU34QB7Td1m-_9jRk/s1209/20230819_152320.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oWFdZ20xT66D99RFAKdxmuqAwZzPwKpZcYxcYlV1XX2QpSyHo26MQFhhyFouo3Pe87foWDIRjXUbBOdUcU_aeSxD0d0aJ-5uzNN9KzVjF72dxI6yk0ELp1z2cV0Ioi0MaCw6via4rvsdC2UT3JBnYFdbLH_P8wckVBm_8h1ZSiLU34QB7Td1m-_9jRk/s320/20230819_152320.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRUQrlnZlVcwzwDF0_PmDieErZqGrmt1QeU1Vj57TRqrokIHd_8oOC8f-A3gGanRr_-3JD3V6uDEvhWp7wxdhSuoKXhXCw9GZ0QOfDF9WoLRjf68eGdcET44-X3vw3hiYA1C38RChGg8jGNheapY_56UYv1hmcuG_DpnPsbcixxE90Wl9kcoL2X34Xkw/s1209/20230819_152324.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRUQrlnZlVcwzwDF0_PmDieErZqGrmt1QeU1Vj57TRqrokIHd_8oOC8f-A3gGanRr_-3JD3V6uDEvhWp7wxdhSuoKXhXCw9GZ0QOfDF9WoLRjf68eGdcET44-X3vw3hiYA1C38RChGg8jGNheapY_56UYv1hmcuG_DpnPsbcixxE90Wl9kcoL2X34Xkw/s320/20230819_152324.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci dirigiamo anzitutto verso il lungomare che costeggia la spiaggia più famosa di Mazatlan, quella che l'ha resa famosa come località turistica, Olas Altas. Nel tragitto incrociamo una serie di case storiche in ottime condizioni e alcune ville in rovina, oltre ad abitazioni, diciamo, eccentriche. Per strada si sente parlare più in inglese che in spagnolo, e l'accento è proprio da americanaccio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdRAnAEqnzFqmRaIH4Uyq8xYcJR2TJ77R0_p96OwRqVlwCXzq__GKl3FpqpN3_hjRDjlyEkXdyhhoYbWpKuZcVLG5LLd1qbLzUhBsaBbRpuqt1gflOVJQTARueULDfZ85waY1ZotRnS9jpVftD9TXtCmGwnybJClXWI3mG47iRvBrY0NRgcLUo8tM8xQ/s1209/20230819_162344.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdRAnAEqnzFqmRaIH4Uyq8xYcJR2TJ77R0_p96OwRqVlwCXzq__GKl3FpqpN3_hjRDjlyEkXdyhhoYbWpKuZcVLG5LLd1qbLzUhBsaBbRpuqt1gflOVJQTARueULDfZ85waY1ZotRnS9jpVftD9TXtCmGwnybJClXWI3mG47iRvBrY0NRgcLUo8tM8xQ/s320/20230819_162344.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5SiuLlPpS5BBA30rG3zBhcO7AnV9yUs6UQoERipRt109VZVYy0_M8ux1VKSTM-jtdePYqsW_DVqO_ghtw44SVuwZWCufQtdhNI26YYnHUIjBAwoi2mHHDGhVV8V8BFQMxqwq0yxeZilduxFp3PzV2vtUWZTPgcr36wch4KkprY6y88PPNCdu4SHUt9Q/s1209/20230819_162544.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5SiuLlPpS5BBA30rG3zBhcO7AnV9yUs6UQoERipRt109VZVYy0_M8ux1VKSTM-jtdePYqsW_DVqO_ghtw44SVuwZWCufQtdhNI26YYnHUIjBAwoi2mHHDGhVV8V8BFQMxqwq0yxeZilduxFp3PzV2vtUWZTPgcr36wch4KkprY6y88PPNCdu4SHUt9Q/s320/20230819_162544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo il malecon, che è affollato di turisti locali e non, e ci rendiamo conto, purtroppo, che abbiamo messo il costume invano: i bagnini che presidiano le spiagge impediscono l'accesso all'acqua, considerata pericolosa per la forte risacca e le pietre affioranti. Che disdetta! Speravo sinceramente di fare subito un tuffo rinfrescante. Ma la brezza fresca e salata e gli spruzzi delle onde sono già una benedizione. Passeggiamo verso nord, in direzione Zona Dorada, cioè l'area più nuova e turistica della città.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw7KoNvaGv-pMoyqw0otJBAoMi7XbxCVqQrlhWJ0h37iQg4LQpltvNPijO26YLTUD78xozqJCbqjLYWW1R5xXHTb-KU7nja2BmtJnvUiWCYbbinkqXTcLh6NvILlzwAJA_tr1VxvtlfvKNa0Wc3mhkQjVTR4Riw53cz2MN6REOVlqbmwvwVQ1zdhrywGU/s1209/20230819_162621.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw7KoNvaGv-pMoyqw0otJBAoMi7XbxCVqQrlhWJ0h37iQg4LQpltvNPijO26YLTUD78xozqJCbqjLYWW1R5xXHTb-KU7nja2BmtJnvUiWCYbbinkqXTcLh6NvILlzwAJA_tr1VxvtlfvKNa0Wc3mhkQjVTR4Riw53cz2MN6REOVlqbmwvwVQ1zdhrywGU/s320/20230819_162621.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjtaXnkoDfMtdpWIw4NGEh7kIns7a8amqMyB2F3M1p3TBKE79vZ5_gVqFBZhmwPOaZngxZAUlGJZ9IMbc-KKaN9Y9Y_yrdStU9mpW_ngRpiHQ6T7Dpp83BDf_4Iu3VV9hnL_F5cvUi_s3ItFb9R3DVLlHW8yMltTq4tOElNQQlFOPXxaXCSoF-869LvQ/s1209/20230819_162627.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjtaXnkoDfMtdpWIw4NGEh7kIns7a8amqMyB2F3M1p3TBKE79vZ5_gVqFBZhmwPOaZngxZAUlGJZ9IMbc-KKaN9Y9Y_yrdStU9mpW_ngRpiHQ6T7Dpp83BDf_4Iu3VV9hnL_F5cvUi_s3ItFb9R3DVLlHW8yMltTq4tOElNQQlFOPXxaXCSoF-869LvQ/s320/20230819_162627.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOd9p_TIXsz3UaNqT0POEsmHmEnvCzXb_SNO-gObfYEmSn7KfueVqfAODXEInn0o2Tl5YE8hsFJLJ3_CqZW7s8W04_A8Ms2iKowpZnvmk4E0ZexwSw8M6q6Pfk16IFh3Z7xmtRIplY1VLEcz81FkJ4Yco4jI4cZ1xg8akIWkDPYOEoh7Qoc1BqTu0ni6U/s1209/20230819_162636.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOd9p_TIXsz3UaNqT0POEsmHmEnvCzXb_SNO-gObfYEmSn7KfueVqfAODXEInn0o2Tl5YE8hsFJLJ3_CqZW7s8W04_A8Ms2iKowpZnvmk4E0ZexwSw8M6q6Pfk16IFh3Z7xmtRIplY1VLEcz81FkJ4Yco4jI4cZ1xg8akIWkDPYOEoh7Qoc1BqTu0ni6U/s320/20230819_162636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMqiIjpQ8A8JaM69l-Z6Xx7QYVg3iAj9kGlli7e3cJqNC2-5Zn2Se8mK7FKGe2Aa4BctgStZODD6u7g3EYJhi9teAnGB5I5ouoZ4zzWV47qNA23nfKf65Fjovo-nseYb2NcFaWZ9g7N0l5kX3cbTu0uB1bwVv-XXk9bfoK_4R6dazR1f4PLOoEecMO0_c/s979/20230819_162649.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMqiIjpQ8A8JaM69l-Z6Xx7QYVg3iAj9kGlli7e3cJqNC2-5Zn2Se8mK7FKGe2Aa4BctgStZODD6u7g3EYJhi9teAnGB5I5ouoZ4zzWV47qNA23nfKf65Fjovo-nseYb2NcFaWZ9g7N0l5kX3cbTu0uB1bwVv-XXk9bfoK_4R6dazR1f4PLOoEecMO0_c/s320/20230819_162649.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2Kxhci0XakI6Bs7P5iE7c970Q5ml6IKz_laFQYuXBx3tvrHQzYS8K5o8Xx1ZKZprI3B1CWmj_k_rKYyF0ZskkAdXujTIDUdHg8JRiFWi9szjolRwdyIJa3CWWdPnlUvzztJw7yqQ4609wS0RD5BzcIKrgRKV1IQ15hbA4cwQyzM1j_OsHMFOxJHoV8o/s1209/20230819_162827.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2Kxhci0XakI6Bs7P5iE7c970Q5ml6IKz_laFQYuXBx3tvrHQzYS8K5o8Xx1ZKZprI3B1CWmj_k_rKYyF0ZskkAdXujTIDUdHg8JRiFWi9szjolRwdyIJa3CWWdPnlUvzztJw7yqQ4609wS0RD5BzcIKrgRKV1IQ15hbA4cwQyzM1j_OsHMFOxJHoV8o/s320/20230819_162827.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si percepisce che siamo in una località balneare: ci sono locali che sparano musica dance a tutto volume, e la strada è trafficata di macchinoni e quad tamarrissimi, oltrechè da golf cart con autista e altri mezzi dalle forme curiose che servono ad autotrasportare famiglie americane o wannabe tali dal culo pesante, come taxi panoramici. Anche questi tengono la musica a un volume da sordità traumatica, e sui sedili si vedono personaggi di dubbia moralità, grossi e palestrati, truccatissime, tutti intenti a farsi selfie da postare sui social per far credere di essere ricchi, felici e dediti alla bella vita. Bastasse un po' di musica alta... Noi ci godiamo la vista dell'oceano, ritrovato qui dopo settimane di montagna ed entroterra. L'ultima volta lo abbiamo incontrato a Puerto Escondido. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqpRCQZAHOV_wCRYvqjwR6-Eyh-qdFLXqpFwnAHqT2mqaRP8c51vW5a8lMjS7cxjmhTEjmYDM9_l4h0-TYp9xocBSV2nv9VRE1d_uWwbJ26v5hdaCr7NWqJlqlXOXEFQLTMgbqIzN1C36cRxoGSZ7riOFg1rA7etCLEXTg_YixSBhoI3GPp5Mo-CMRSXI/s1209/20230819_163351.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqpRCQZAHOV_wCRYvqjwR6-Eyh-qdFLXqpFwnAHqT2mqaRP8c51vW5a8lMjS7cxjmhTEjmYDM9_l4h0-TYp9xocBSV2nv9VRE1d_uWwbJ26v5hdaCr7NWqJlqlXOXEFQLTMgbqIzN1C36cRxoGSZ7riOFg1rA7etCLEXTg_YixSBhoI3GPp5Mo-CMRSXI/s320/20230819_163351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hgVu0eI7COBD8r1VxoF5O8CuLvBMbqAvGm_TO0BJVFswr5AnkrlFlO2co3noiptEPwxyVwjXl648EzcJTqU0bwHzjpmSZqW8MsWUrfti6m7mRy9b___3ARDKFdkkd0QN5ak3L-hm4fE2y9y_YsJB9SkFfD5t1QfOW4ruJmxKnsqnpDWmuhuaaXm4ivQ/s1209/20230819_163551.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6hgVu0eI7COBD8r1VxoF5O8CuLvBMbqAvGm_TO0BJVFswr5AnkrlFlO2co3noiptEPwxyVwjXl648EzcJTqU0bwHzjpmSZqW8MsWUrfti6m7mRy9b___3ARDKFdkkd0QN5ak3L-hm4fE2y9y_YsJB9SkFfD5t1QfOW4ruJmxKnsqnpDWmuhuaaXm4ivQ/s320/20230819_163551.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP5lI7uI7z4wTOQwapSDgm9x_49SCN8O1iY9h1JKcc3aWMXW831wDLkQupXrAWEyTbPhgmeSiwg1icT3lCOa0_U2ka2KfVCxCO6k9lkjCA5vCLrsdyrABe0tTQOK_M46FqRQioqR-rOMrKwFsfO9WPrXmx7E1tVdHA8MZE-jS61xD3Zyd4e_OC3x2mNJ0/s1209/20230819_163554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP5lI7uI7z4wTOQwapSDgm9x_49SCN8O1iY9h1JKcc3aWMXW831wDLkQupXrAWEyTbPhgmeSiwg1icT3lCOa0_U2ka2KfVCxCO6k9lkjCA5vCLrsdyrABe0tTQOK_M46FqRQioqR-rOMrKwFsfO9WPrXmx7E1tVdHA8MZE-jS61xD3Zyd4e_OC3x2mNJ0/s320/20230819_163554.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Proseguiamo nella nostra passeggiata lungomare e superiamo una serie di locali e alberghi che sono anche un po' too much, ma, a quanto pare, funzionano e sono frequentati al punto da permettersi di gonfiare i prezzi e ricalcare quelli statunitensi, piuttosto che quelli messicani.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfwlVQcaTyo_MaKgsME2cbvX9lad3c_KzX8CSECFmz5tKkaV0ybsbl35asxTiFNQ9Nyq3tnmOPdK_caULdsJYFfzLIO7qLIMRJhTWv599Ne2o0cme8UL1zTTCJqRjvDCFGmmigCNMOjRJKQwlMPwIUBl3nmYoTz5VPBjr8Np4Kvyz8-LXbjzFWweyVLg/s1209/20230819_164654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfwlVQcaTyo_MaKgsME2cbvX9lad3c_KzX8CSECFmz5tKkaV0ybsbl35asxTiFNQ9Nyq3tnmOPdK_caULdsJYFfzLIO7qLIMRJhTWv599Ne2o0cme8UL1zTTCJqRjvDCFGmmigCNMOjRJKQwlMPwIUBl3nmYoTz5VPBjr8Np4Kvyz8-LXbjzFWweyVLg/s320/20230819_164654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwRfj_iibvURbxi7VFn9letuLrSxpZsimHsYe7v47BRzkMT-Escx0mfQW_KWM0HFrx507I4uDxE2vQvGKVngJbHULU4dDXkGZJB8z_FU8JdI5nc1yJ8DinFArGJOgJyhjV8vBvyMCHOLL5TgsDVBhr2wc9vUGREuHZfDeCxhvSIjtU-JmqBICfgEefx8/s1209/20230819_164733.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwRfj_iibvURbxi7VFn9letuLrSxpZsimHsYe7v47BRzkMT-Escx0mfQW_KWM0HFrx507I4uDxE2vQvGKVngJbHULU4dDXkGZJB8z_FU8JdI5nc1yJ8DinFArGJOgJyhjV8vBvyMCHOLL5TgsDVBhr2wc9vUGREuHZfDeCxhvSIjtU-JmqBICfgEefx8/s320/20230819_164733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Raggiungiamo, tra piacevoli sculture che ricordano artisti locali o raffigurano personaggi mitologici come sirene e tritoni, una piazzetta che divide la città vecchia da quella nuova. Decidiamo di attendere qui il tramonto e poi andare direttamente a cena.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwqPFhuGT4ogqqaOhfcyY3Q3iEer5tP8C2X2GR87YWZrGV15TSq4pv4-u2tZ9O-AwUECxanOl16hdPWZztM9R-xwNqgURFuiWeHuxmR-0M0KQFMAiAuuu84bCfeCvDH-BNl0RxXL2FJ_URWZRELpSJXZuC52OWZxfCn3Oes136rpSmT1TKCa19QCyMao/s1209/20230819_164849.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwqPFhuGT4ogqqaOhfcyY3Q3iEer5tP8C2X2GR87YWZrGV15TSq4pv4-u2tZ9O-AwUECxanOl16hdPWZztM9R-xwNqgURFuiWeHuxmR-0M0KQFMAiAuuu84bCfeCvDH-BNl0RxXL2FJ_URWZRELpSJXZuC52OWZxfCn3Oes136rpSmT1TKCa19QCyMao/s320/20230819_164849.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo8tFBCn8msQ0Fkl9pVOrrHTdPkeSe_uMDi4bP4Pb-Js9g7hO_Na-08xY-wXwiyumXsVLTITznUdg23xirmGAn4LfPBLiGjiks1jpHYSaSXg7-sydJw0n08fAtwgoZb-th_CUTVN92VWBbp-kMhDXyp4Xw-U32BgKzmK2rXGMoPF069i63pJOG3O_SRfQ/s1209/20230819_164954.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo8tFBCn8msQ0Fkl9pVOrrHTdPkeSe_uMDi4bP4Pb-Js9g7hO_Na-08xY-wXwiyumXsVLTITznUdg23xirmGAn4LfPBLiGjiks1jpHYSaSXg7-sydJw0n08fAtwgoZb-th_CUTVN92VWBbp-kMhDXyp4Xw-U32BgKzmK2rXGMoPF069i63pJOG3O_SRfQ/s320/20230819_164954.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm29VxqWgXzzQLa58jDSDkbQvbvyaeWMgRTecBmVT_GQWtEY8OWcJw99I-HA_9a7a1rzu0rTRu55yyQH_F_3k13FvDihQQy6JnfYmC3gZalT-XSXGrYdX76ntjkQhL3DHmh_MobY1TJKPtjBKYA_idlSFGZqPciDm8V7k6qdRSO4qA_Z9LdjgUl8271lk/s1209/20230819_165125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm29VxqWgXzzQLa58jDSDkbQvbvyaeWMgRTecBmVT_GQWtEY8OWcJw99I-HA_9a7a1rzu0rTRu55yyQH_F_3k13FvDihQQy6JnfYmC3gZalT-XSXGrYdX76ntjkQhL3DHmh_MobY1TJKPtjBKYA_idlSFGZqPciDm8V7k6qdRSO4qA_Z9LdjgUl8271lk/s320/20230819_165125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOm4pGGSwuidSarfRxhcRU168t0jZqXaHBPYGAnL_2l0k7gZbtyHc2040f1eckEVxG0eNYukwfeGbvlNzL3fVLyjUTH0FOa7Thklz3fkILnRJxG3KRkV3Qa3qOg8igMKb4Q7T63HB4cpJsuh9UK4T6MKPu7g1LSIkwRdEJRDt0DLmOAeTV9SmpMWQqn_w/s1210/20230819_170001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOm4pGGSwuidSarfRxhcRU168t0jZqXaHBPYGAnL_2l0k7gZbtyHc2040f1eckEVxG0eNYukwfeGbvlNzL3fVLyjUTH0FOa7Thklz3fkILnRJxG3KRkV3Qa3qOg8igMKb4Q7T63HB4cpJsuh9UK4T6MKPu7g1LSIkwRdEJRDt0DLmOAeTV9SmpMWQqn_w/s320/20230819_170001.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHyBRitprR46vaVMZZ-VqyLQq4CJQi085Bob17TzOL4ErnY2j715Q5xHak1Iv5ubB5aNJiC7iOZU336uYu19e_uFqKrPU7FzEgLxSLgqSH1avtiU3Z0SIXZjglxRBHfRpfPAJAuu_sqefBE9_iUlPCxmGJ_21WVmcqXkauK3_q4e_-yORU-g6NbqIHdao/s1209/20230819_182659.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHyBRitprR46vaVMZZ-VqyLQq4CJQi085Bob17TzOL4ErnY2j715Q5xHak1Iv5ubB5aNJiC7iOZU336uYu19e_uFqKrPU7FzEgLxSLgqSH1avtiU3Z0SIXZjglxRBHfRpfPAJAuu_sqefBE9_iUlPCxmGJ_21WVmcqXkauK3_q4e_-yORU-g6NbqIHdao/s320/20230819_182659.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando l'afa del pomeriggio allenta la morsa e la brezza della sera rinfresca l'aria, la rotonda dove ci siamo fermati ad ammirare lo spettacolo delle onde che si infrangono sugli scogli si popola. Compaiono bancarelle di cianfrusaglie ma soprattutto di cibo. Qui, oltre al cocco fresco (condito sempre con salsa o polvere piccante) e alla frutta, oltre alle patatine, ai nachos e agli snack classici dello strett food messicano, si sono inventati dei piatti a portar via che meriterebbero un premio alla fantasia. Un esempio: i noodles liofilizzati, tipo Saikebon, arricchiti con mais bollito al momento, formaggio, salse e patatine, in modo da creare una cornucopia strabordante che sfamerebbe un elefante. Oppure sacchetti di patatine, già piccanti, aperti per lungo e tenuti come vassoietti, in cui si cacciano mille varietà di salse, formaggio fuso al momento e mais o noccioline. Per non parlare delle pannocchie bollite, infilzate su uno stecco, che vengono glassate con strati di formaggio colorato con coloranti fluo: blu, rosa, arancione... Insomma, c'è da perdersi nello studiare queste invenzioni culinarie, solitamente accompagnate da micheladas o bevande in sacchetto (sì, sacchetto di plastica, con cannuccia infilzata per bere come da una tettarella. Io ho fatto esperienza di tutto ciò in Perù, lo scorso anno).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPm0TRpGltANtQkRKnyvDXC13QfWjP3Xy_A43pfGprgv8KojNZrsLUFiOso8JufB6O1ew3_pTlc3QxBBn1X80DL0CW4AgyM0ISzadTQFMKCGbKRkOQahVjW65CKGNn_8DBCkGG-MSQ7kIM5o4zCe2zLvFoIj2a3n9LkYDcW30juNnyLlAJaO-BcRSsBMY/s1209/20230819_182817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPm0TRpGltANtQkRKnyvDXC13QfWjP3Xy_A43pfGprgv8KojNZrsLUFiOso8JufB6O1ew3_pTlc3QxBBn1X80DL0CW4AgyM0ISzadTQFMKCGbKRkOQahVjW65CKGNn_8DBCkGG-MSQ7kIM5o4zCe2zLvFoIj2a3n9LkYDcW30juNnyLlAJaO-BcRSsBMY/s320/20230819_182817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lZR8w-UoHB1u0ld9nr1AKBeRcD5jJKpfzPXNwhqmp7pad3mudHT6Re36C1z6-v-9Sy8rjdWnOeehyaQ-eXbXiNB2iOjvhOmXn-XaosPj8AMhMTmYR0bENx6oUbDS4fu8oIxzERCTnjDGbnipKjtfCWOU-LFzk_eDlg0noMOlp3XOvNHMYmHIrYfWCQM/s1209/20230819_183252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lZR8w-UoHB1u0ld9nr1AKBeRcD5jJKpfzPXNwhqmp7pad3mudHT6Re36C1z6-v-9Sy8rjdWnOeehyaQ-eXbXiNB2iOjvhOmXn-XaosPj8AMhMTmYR0bENx6oUbDS4fu8oIxzERCTnjDGbnipKjtfCWOU-LFzk_eDlg0noMOlp3XOvNHMYmHIrYfWCQM/s320/20230819_183252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgRBHCqvn79TgcRJcyPcWbxBxFUDIoI4wYP6Z7ZQ3O6eosR_rx5JeirnNc1ziMnhznpTQK4BzMZrL4-6GqYw9CW3J4AIcZBVkvmD6CH5kTljica61BRDpmVYFtXo1Qd5xNuLG2gs9xbi1VUl-gHH6Bui6EDzVfHR3H3ZosN7gSfRhioGMWc1rVbF-lVE/s1209/20230819_183330.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgRBHCqvn79TgcRJcyPcWbxBxFUDIoI4wYP6Z7ZQ3O6eosR_rx5JeirnNc1ziMnhznpTQK4BzMZrL4-6GqYw9CW3J4AIcZBVkvmD6CH5kTljica61BRDpmVYFtXo1Qd5xNuLG2gs9xbi1VUl-gHH6Bui6EDzVfHR3H3ZosN7gSfRhioGMWc1rVbF-lVE/s320/20230819_183330.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhOWjzc1GJpehVV_YyiLSKuktP7q9VUYa2iu7xCFXt0QVu5MorXKiTYyMUcXXFX3lktNDnSH3eUEAbxOYi5IrJ0VPwLunn1P5yAViESLbLsJUdMkoqkSsFGrQeQJ0z27h8D42e8PjJGudYHF3WrNNOE_rW2pM4b5fpYiPHyaY2ONUBP_5SR9vrvIMHHc/s1209/20230819_183625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhOWjzc1GJpehVV_YyiLSKuktP7q9VUYa2iu7xCFXt0QVu5MorXKiTYyMUcXXFX3lktNDnSH3eUEAbxOYi5IrJ0VPwLunn1P5yAViESLbLsJUdMkoqkSsFGrQeQJ0z27h8D42e8PjJGudYHF3WrNNOE_rW2pM4b5fpYiPHyaY2ONUBP_5SR9vrvIMHHc/s320/20230819_183625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwS8Qh59tQonV8UENdQN_mJPnaYkIUkXHX6aA3s0J_cE57PCLoJHZvHK-JpWStEo0pgeTyCWC8ksWE8_YkQQ4S5WZ7q0SC8JCs6oKXdY9BQ8zmS6F6-dtRUR5m6PA_mJM_BDEpMwUg3lgqKx5XRji3aO5o7w04a-vOmwZwk0gzq827xIIkv_cgKwlzhT0/s1209/20230819_183722.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwS8Qh59tQonV8UENdQN_mJPnaYkIUkXHX6aA3s0J_cE57PCLoJHZvHK-JpWStEo0pgeTyCWC8ksWE8_YkQQ4S5WZ7q0SC8JCs6oKXdY9BQ8zmS6F6-dtRUR5m6PA_mJM_BDEpMwUg3lgqKx5XRji3aO5o7w04a-vOmwZwk0gzq827xIIkv_cgKwlzhT0/s320/20230819_183722.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxSfX7rnuKF81vKMUdGAkPpW30pWNmFu_EWyOabUNC5Iff3pyXuaLiRphjZplQwZdk83Bf76rzuWwJN_RTPttO6GDZmj-vK-f5kx4lqVsBdsD2Qmh1oMVEKxx2h4pCVNDjg9yyQe_YHkuKzy2Sdd566hA0XWPL-50SYwFlpFh36bZ50R1r6Ed_OtQ9mN4/s1209/20230819_183732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxSfX7rnuKF81vKMUdGAkPpW30pWNmFu_EWyOabUNC5Iff3pyXuaLiRphjZplQwZdk83Bf76rzuWwJN_RTPttO6GDZmj-vK-f5kx4lqVsBdsD2Qmh1oMVEKxx2h4pCVNDjg9yyQe_YHkuKzy2Sdd566hA0XWPL-50SYwFlpFh36bZ50R1r6Ed_OtQ9mN4/s320/20230819_183732.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmiA0aOKcyolJy17GBSPNXfyGQgldsyRFk7jG6qWSrluLxWnbCccvQP0TcV85iiGQzzahX9vHyGt7RaXB2kQhzK2PuXM0PqrjF8ELwqkvkfo0ajcyxZMKJFk_331JrPV6VVp3NZsDNt_2QPDch7LBtqacOYcGXP7zxFaAIeaVJn4M5M5X1F8mMcXW6Zg/s1209/20230819_183736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmiA0aOKcyolJy17GBSPNXfyGQgldsyRFk7jG6qWSrluLxWnbCccvQP0TcV85iiGQzzahX9vHyGt7RaXB2kQhzK2PuXM0PqrjF8ELwqkvkfo0ajcyxZMKJFk_331JrPV6VVp3NZsDNt_2QPDch7LBtqacOYcGXP7zxFaAIeaVJn4M5M5X1F8mMcXW6Zg/s320/20230819_183736.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Non mancano nemmeno i clavadistas, i tuffatori acrobatici che eseguono salti spericolati tra le rocce e le onde infide. Aspettano che la folla si raduni e, in cambio di qualche spicciolo, si gettano dagli scogli più alti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF13BbKpHEhvoAX_OE_KwgUNYU-VBLa5j3OZFlmN3oxfcJaMkzsT1X3L3_bWiy9pti3jYA1Xt6kM5OTr5vbd1rkCU5LYj6b_hnES6xmxUe42m8Z6teZA_vwcegl_t66_Utt7v_N5t5kOwVHjwRpuE56mcqCD8IU02oxOj_ujtx0BZxd3gLkIBff8p6pI8/s1209/20230819_183936.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF13BbKpHEhvoAX_OE_KwgUNYU-VBLa5j3OZFlmN3oxfcJaMkzsT1X3L3_bWiy9pti3jYA1Xt6kM5OTr5vbd1rkCU5LYj6b_hnES6xmxUe42m8Z6teZA_vwcegl_t66_Utt7v_N5t5kOwVHjwRpuE56mcqCD8IU02oxOj_ujtx0BZxd3gLkIBff8p6pI8/s320/20230819_183936.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non posso fare a meno di gettare uno sguardo anche alla cueva del diablo, una grotta ai piedi del Cerro de la Neveria, altura a ridosso del litorale infilzata di antenne. La caverna è chiusa da un cancello evocativo, ed è, fuor di favola, colma di immondizia lanciata dall'esterno. C'è chi dice che qui si eseguivano rituali satanici, chi assicura che ci passava un treno (sì, dei puffi), chi dice che i pirati ci han nascosto un tesoro. Ma la leggenda locale narra che, durante un carnevale, due belle ragazze siano state attirati nel cuore della grotta da un giovane elegante e dal fascino magnetico, e non siano mai più uscite. Che fosse Lucifero in persona o l'ennesimo femminicida, non si sa. Molti assicurano che di notte si intravede un bagliore rosso sulle pareti di roccia. Certo è che questo è stato un deposito di dinamite quando è stato costruito il lungomare.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxEhrKTj3ok49y-Zj28AMaujYVzrsMt_oXWQ0rTC-4b_87x34V-WGhUaXglHiDJ9BbTQS0_DAHg60SgWagGbdQnJrf3-5nxcZNVlU-Uxl9GO52xBKUQVxgFTZfoH2F7nR_U6ghlMz0Oj9zF00z6UFIWxVKgI1TVID3AKDRMdedG0YHcQQB3gYYGjPbQoE/s1209/20230819_184329.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxEhrKTj3ok49y-Zj28AMaujYVzrsMt_oXWQ0rTC-4b_87x34V-WGhUaXglHiDJ9BbTQS0_DAHg60SgWagGbdQnJrf3-5nxcZNVlU-Uxl9GO52xBKUQVxgFTZfoH2F7nR_U6ghlMz0Oj9zF00z6UFIWxVKgI1TVID3AKDRMdedG0YHcQQB3gYYGjPbQoE/s320/20230819_184329.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo un ultimo saluto al Pacifico al crepuscolo, andiamo alla ricerca di un ristorantino: siamo affamati come lupi, anzi, come volpi! Purtroppo un black out ha colpito tutto il quartiere e quindi molti locali sono con la cucina in panne e servono solo da bere. Troviamo un posticino a due passi dalla nostra posada che si sta arrangiando con le torce dei telefoni e una cucina da campo. Un'americanona che non par nuova di queste parti, mentre indugiamo, ci dice che qui fanno degli ottimi tacos. E sia! Vada di tacos marlin e gamberi. In effetti, eccellenti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHtp0NKjJ79nLOffNNUDybLjk9TPZIJU0wT7XUI09ORMqWVX3oFSi8UOqfq16SYXxLX8CMlwqRt-wFkVMUlSpS_NEPEBQTDZPyV-dvTCC2P9c9RkSHkvKrkWNWFOmrBPHye9CvhZURSX5Jz-1NsbqrDD9qO0qpyJjGO_Xd622ocGYqZD1G9zFcg41f68/s1209/20230819_184715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNHtp0NKjJ79nLOffNNUDybLjk9TPZIJU0wT7XUI09ORMqWVX3oFSi8UOqfq16SYXxLX8CMlwqRt-wFkVMUlSpS_NEPEBQTDZPyV-dvTCC2P9c9RkSHkvKrkWNWFOmrBPHye9CvhZURSX5Jz-1NsbqrDD9qO0qpyJjGO_Xd622ocGYqZD1G9zFcg41f68/s320/20230819_184715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1IBfQyqRwLtqTsh0o6ufxUgaffowPXQtYHhAa_nF9NMnk51Em1hpwwkwqmuQc4kAMQAfx_HjsW_4bC5Z04FVIEI6UjEaLhEbvS9JxOdHASyaQ8KJR-aqLaBd68zEMO5FBumJLicUX2Q4XM93EGBLvyKCH-1d2p7c3_2sCKFTgs1TOPQaIfeLdkrQtcPg/s1209/20230819_184720.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1IBfQyqRwLtqTsh0o6ufxUgaffowPXQtYHhAa_nF9NMnk51Em1hpwwkwqmuQc4kAMQAfx_HjsW_4bC5Z04FVIEI6UjEaLhEbvS9JxOdHASyaQ8KJR-aqLaBd68zEMO5FBumJLicUX2Q4XM93EGBLvyKCH-1d2p7c3_2sCKFTgs1TOPQaIfeLdkrQtcPg/s320/20230819_184720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFi-4QuNTGH5uk9p0OYk66p4_eTRcBJUHLfHbKSzEtZHxissx8A61ZpiTj0AgS7R2a4QAgICWlBUOg0RYGCIAZ-9CXqhTbMeNPhBxP3Fe3c_eQXj5h1Vj-BBK71xfKCNaUtIWJC6MQfddkLFEpKUrj0k8hRBxYqOFmDvi7TOMlUdUx80qRqvSjC4o4yBY/s1205/20230819_192948.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="744" data-original-width="1205" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFi-4QuNTGH5uk9p0OYk66p4_eTRcBJUHLfHbKSzEtZHxissx8A61ZpiTj0AgS7R2a4QAgICWlBUOg0RYGCIAZ-9CXqhTbMeNPhBxP3Fe3c_eQXj5h1Vj-BBK71xfKCNaUtIWJC6MQfddkLFEpKUrj0k8hRBxYqOFmDvi7TOMlUdUx80qRqvSjC4o4yBY/s320/20230819_192948.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>20/8</div><div>Mazatlan</div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi è una giornata di pieno riposo, quasi come fossimo veramente in vacanza, e non in viaggio! Non era prevista, e non era necessaria, ma approfittiamo della sfortuna del traghetto rimandato per cogliere un piacevole giorno libero, di recupero mentale e fisico, in cui sbrigare qualche faccenda e poi far anche niente, ma in posti belli.</div><div><br /></div><div>Iniziamo con il dire due parole su questa città, chiamata anche "Perla del Pacifico". Innanzitutto il toponimo deriva da una parola nahuatl che significa "luogo dei cervi". E' la seconda città più popolosa di Sinaloa, con oltre 440.000 abitanti, dista 21km dal Tropico del Cancro (lo attraverseremo in Baja) ed è una delle destinazioni turistiche più gettonate della costa occidentale del Messico. La città fu fondata nel 1531 dall'ormai plurinominato Nuno de Guzman, in un luogo dove abitavano totorames, xiximes e tepehuanes. Nel 1576 viene fondata l'attuale Villa Union, la città cui Mazatlan, che era solo un porto, faceva capo. La zona del porto iniziò a essere abitata stabilmente solo dopo la guerra d'indipendenza e durante l'Ottocento, pur con alterne vicende legate alle varie guerre che ebbero impatto sui commerci, Mazatlan crebbe e visse il suo momento di massimo splendore, fino a diventare capitale di Sinaloa. Poi, però, perse importanza e fu messa in ombra a causa dei conflitti politici interni tra rivoluzionari e vecchia classe dirigente. Negli anni '50 del secolo scorso, però, l'immigrazione dalle zone rurali e la nascita del turismo balneare massivo riportò Mazatlan agli antichi fasti, anzi, diede un impulso all'economia sconosciuto fino ad allora. Oggi altre sono le mete del turismo internazionale, ma il turismo interno e un buon numero di statunitensi si dirigono qui per trovare movida, buona comida di pesce fresco, prezzi contenuti e 20km di spiaggia.</div><div><br /></div><div>Noi approfittiamo del nostro hotel nel centro storico per fare una bella passeggiata tra le case d'epoca dai colori pastello, tenute in ottimo stato e capaci di rilassare anche solo a uno sguardo. Non manchiamo di concederci una colazione in una caffetteria vera e propria.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-_v4NHQCRAz_j4Cl-vBynXDVAjS2C_x_duauQKEvwma_yuJoGZstrcUghr1oE2TqQ0jwQFEOUaNzTeGn-p0IzCZNJAUZVmKJcoHNBG20sL9-sXGn6GAJDa-8gpBmqODjKDvIi0S37Z566i0c83IpCiOTzDKfYwS7O84xH04x3BLeLxqwW9bXdu6tmZI/s1209/20230820_101028.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-_v4NHQCRAz_j4Cl-vBynXDVAjS2C_x_duauQKEvwma_yuJoGZstrcUghr1oE2TqQ0jwQFEOUaNzTeGn-p0IzCZNJAUZVmKJcoHNBG20sL9-sXGn6GAJDa-8gpBmqODjKDvIi0S37Z566i0c83IpCiOTzDKfYwS7O84xH04x3BLeLxqwW9bXdu6tmZI/s320/20230820_101028.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIaaA6YHR740WqqAJB0hdaJwccfgg5c5v74U0vwzBkRS6-QADpj7Lvfbf3PMpbU5iV_UTKhjaQ0BN9jzi5XW7DSFFlM_M_FIrCuxmTx8BNmzscV6D_fDHJ3KYZOikMgVFNaXiXnLUy-W5diBQS_cp3h_LpEfKx5nfmmdqeiCe2lHzux0RIbvcHNii7d2w/s1209/20230820_101522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIaaA6YHR740WqqAJB0hdaJwccfgg5c5v74U0vwzBkRS6-QADpj7Lvfbf3PMpbU5iV_UTKhjaQ0BN9jzi5XW7DSFFlM_M_FIrCuxmTx8BNmzscV6D_fDHJ3KYZOikMgVFNaXiXnLUy-W5diBQS_cp3h_LpEfKx5nfmmdqeiCe2lHzux0RIbvcHNii7d2w/s320/20230820_101522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVJAHPG-LhJkYMB_DNvJFHl74AmOxrQQV7UQCwygyT1muOI9-8mKCy-UJ_IEh4bhCRWt_mMfQ7fxPNo_o2a1VgS2AAtJtRo6B0NYAOF3ZSSReDIYHvVwi1oAkgI-EuAtGDa7rNGQGM3mktCMzDjFeB12VV-8t7lD2ZcDO89zt5YPsQNAl7CCprZC9-5w/s1209/20230820_101527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnVJAHPG-LhJkYMB_DNvJFHl74AmOxrQQV7UQCwygyT1muOI9-8mKCy-UJ_IEh4bhCRWt_mMfQ7fxPNo_o2a1VgS2AAtJtRo6B0NYAOF3ZSSReDIYHvVwi1oAkgI-EuAtGDa7rNGQGM3mktCMzDjFeB12VV-8t7lD2ZcDO89zt5YPsQNAl7CCprZC9-5w/s320/20230820_101527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0KpKnc33bYtUCII4fYhYaUz_c1ReUqnhs7Da5fGHfnu8raHmwIONBl2_vgrpd2ln7QnNzZmpTKiK4ODVJpxTglGEVMrjLpnIO0TG7YDXosWtGpvg64Ow2_6qcV9xZvvcwHeVSHuaBU3_uWTXAtp2UuSqHN_0LhwyQ2re6IAaPTfVDi9UM0_YQipYFjs/s1210/20230820_102444.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0KpKnc33bYtUCII4fYhYaUz_c1ReUqnhs7Da5fGHfnu8raHmwIONBl2_vgrpd2ln7QnNzZmpTKiK4ODVJpxTglGEVMrjLpnIO0TG7YDXosWtGpvg64Ow2_6qcV9xZvvcwHeVSHuaBU3_uWTXAtp2UuSqHN_0LhwyQ2re6IAaPTfVDi9UM0_YQipYFjs/s320/20230820_102444.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">caramel frappuccino -se vogliamo fare le americanate, facciamole fino in fondo!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Passeggiamo nel pittoresco compendio di nobili palazzi del XIX secolo e piazzette alberate che è il centro, oggi particolarmente tranquillo e silenzioso. I bagordi del sabato sera han lasciato il segno e sembra che tutti dormano fino a tardi -giustamente, è domenica della settimana di Ferragosto!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVa6Z6Mr8STVlkDGmcXA1WMVwJXrOhUiZFSowaI_LKBeFpkUlDekJ934nVoISfMgif5wcdjiAolvcLwM3cdR20nqj7Dlz3j19fzyLooALPDBH9-ghUt8paZ-PZguv8Uo17oq8zyFWn8lJII4RHKkhnnDrM0qM-JIBdjdnznSbV1MocTF51NH1dCO_qus/s1209/20230820_104435.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVa6Z6Mr8STVlkDGmcXA1WMVwJXrOhUiZFSowaI_LKBeFpkUlDekJ934nVoISfMgif5wcdjiAolvcLwM3cdR20nqj7Dlz3j19fzyLooALPDBH9-ghUt8paZ-PZguv8Uo17oq8zyFWn8lJII4RHKkhnnDrM0qM-JIBdjdnznSbV1MocTF51NH1dCO_qus/s320/20230820_104435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0thcOFwCvT6wLV6vjy3AdikVP2gojOjwNBIoWkjHtxAbgnoVijxl8r6C-TkWXcEGsuvmGqqbNX1s_FEBWQY6GfMoWuiva400W4Qdr6AFirpbZPL5zfA9aTsi2_hkWEhRqLGdaCguJ-3zk8M3IKVM_Er3HtxDbtp045IU4BbnnnDdpYOOW6V7dArCKzaU/s1209/20230820_104548.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0thcOFwCvT6wLV6vjy3AdikVP2gojOjwNBIoWkjHtxAbgnoVijxl8r6C-TkWXcEGsuvmGqqbNX1s_FEBWQY6GfMoWuiva400W4Qdr6AFirpbZPL5zfA9aTsi2_hkWEhRqLGdaCguJ-3zk8M3IKVM_Er3HtxDbtp045IU4BbnnnDdpYOOW6V7dArCKzaU/s320/20230820_104548.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tra una coccola ai gatti dolcini che popolano queste vie deserte e un'altra, raggiungiamo il Teatro Angela Peralta, costruito tra 1869 e 1874; il nome è in onore di una soprano in voga nel XIX secolo. Questo luogo è stato, ed è tuttora, il fulcro della ita culturale cittadina. A metà Novecento cadde in stato di abbandono e negli anni '80 stava per essere demolito, ma i cittadini si mobilitarono per invocarne la ristrutturazione. Così è andata, e il cartellone è denso di eventi per ogni palato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p-zF7dcy9GHrpbEcreO67cTWFJWalVd2iSzh3GEZk8BzJpywA0-zWS89m7sS2vLdt4YkFO532zfQ-ZTfua_ZCjGA6K5cOS0_2mIXZSGk_w8ctH-zHQgtMrvjX6VtU3zKkrf6QFgQ1j9kBe6sJADn42enNn7p8S5qz34SRP2eROt2xa6FzpIkuPZSWXM/s1209/20230820_104648.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p-zF7dcy9GHrpbEcreO67cTWFJWalVd2iSzh3GEZk8BzJpywA0-zWS89m7sS2vLdt4YkFO532zfQ-ZTfua_ZCjGA6K5cOS0_2mIXZSGk_w8ctH-zHQgtMrvjX6VtU3zKkrf6QFgQ1j9kBe6sJADn42enNn7p8S5qz34SRP2eROt2xa6FzpIkuPZSWXM/s320/20230820_104648.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmgY_gicwglRQ8VGTTtAESTdZe2mn8uMEN2KgFJmB9mpqrrg8wF4SyA1N9yJquD8pDT8N3KABTC0wT7W_uSMBeUm1wWjTq5SH7PQga-VO9meeX5E9wKkoFwAgfKPzHueZBrZUcG6MugTd2jcr4xANCf7ossxkrjWA-3XSLu7Yq5h-NNxtwCWM3rGgBW2w/s1209/20230820_104706.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmgY_gicwglRQ8VGTTtAESTdZe2mn8uMEN2KgFJmB9mpqrrg8wF4SyA1N9yJquD8pDT8N3KABTC0wT7W_uSMBeUm1wWjTq5SH7PQga-VO9meeX5E9wKkoFwAgfKPzHueZBrZUcG6MugTd2jcr4xANCf7ossxkrjWA-3XSLu7Yq5h-NNxtwCWM3rGgBW2w/s320/20230820_104706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOCJfwpBa8uC_taQ_YtmZztV2O-_zs5KjdVc0rtHMfB_GmYnCF2L4e3ktxEHZ7LAO0EKWWK9AOyzPLMXk9GUOgjg90d97Ltph4ORY_WwYcES0l1-5y5qOXeBwU86ap-962LjNZpfn4OMdBRXz8qb-xA3bloLjcsXHgYfUuFEpScGLTruknfS3IvDk3KjM/s979/20230820_104714.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOCJfwpBa8uC_taQ_YtmZztV2O-_zs5KjdVc0rtHMfB_GmYnCF2L4e3ktxEHZ7LAO0EKWWK9AOyzPLMXk9GUOgjg90d97Ltph4ORY_WwYcES0l1-5y5qOXeBwU86ap-962LjNZpfn4OMdBRXz8qb-xA3bloLjcsXHgYfUuFEpScGLTruknfS3IvDk3KjM/s320/20230820_104714.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A due passi dal teatro si trova poi Plaza Machado, orlata di alberi e quasi assopita di giorno. Bisogna tornarci la sera, cosa che non mancheremo di fare, per assaporare luci, profumi e viavai del mercato e dei locali che qui han sede ne la tarde.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiljx3r8VPnda7f_ZPrQYEtrBVzDRwnKu8dO3asRZltgj2LE-1O9d8iPkiyVQB54P6e0B8_nQJdCUVGeGqgsX8DII0dQHW1NHAQZS5_gPPrcCBTbLkioNzgFYkpoJgDB10TnbkEevGwJKHeYgrhwwqFVdbMbE1i_Up1cRZLSbYilaboenSvgNw8ZcvSRvs/s1209/20230820_104905.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiljx3r8VPnda7f_ZPrQYEtrBVzDRwnKu8dO3asRZltgj2LE-1O9d8iPkiyVQB54P6e0B8_nQJdCUVGeGqgsX8DII0dQHW1NHAQZS5_gPPrcCBTbLkioNzgFYkpoJgDB10TnbkEevGwJKHeYgrhwwqFVdbMbE1i_Up1cRZLSbYilaboenSvgNw8ZcvSRvs/s320/20230820_104905.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnUWKpuOzeQwjEE0UZo56RHN-IP1ibUxK3ikkC2pZth1WlwjI17CCJ5tdHq9ZKMRQpTc9Bv6RVcNiBzYljA1rtRki2c8HHEfrPbWJAbfMf33eInQkC1L8btYgbrZVRFVmDhJ9UPxWe3YoyJ0jMOO6WjYs9qffKlzv_AoLUQAVnty5bMlSUC3kwudIjYbs/s1209/20230820_105051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnUWKpuOzeQwjEE0UZo56RHN-IP1ibUxK3ikkC2pZth1WlwjI17CCJ5tdHq9ZKMRQpTc9Bv6RVcNiBzYljA1rtRki2c8HHEfrPbWJAbfMf33eInQkC1L8btYgbrZVRFVmDhJ9UPxWe3YoyJ0jMOO6WjYs9qffKlzv_AoLUQAVnty5bMlSUC3kwudIjYbs/s320/20230820_105051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mB81FiMfZnFHFB0bUcfY4rC5OXU426H9UIEtjZRMAPzVJrWNjE_HqEgrLsnf96xNAAIaAHC6uXqGQpFFksdi1mrzkt8mXwKygXflfHabtECbL28fv9YzG5EPttMWhPvzzaIVtfUI_iqXm8cSdoZ5IJM9UjZA4hWxWXs1W23wleqmt9uLbgQ2S58tajI/s1209/20230820_105531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0mB81FiMfZnFHFB0bUcfY4rC5OXU426H9UIEtjZRMAPzVJrWNjE_HqEgrLsnf96xNAAIaAHC6uXqGQpFFksdi1mrzkt8mXwKygXflfHabtECbL28fv9YzG5EPttMWhPvzzaIVtfUI_iqXm8cSdoZ5IJM9UjZA4hWxWXs1W23wleqmt9uLbgQ2S58tajI/s320/20230820_105531.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poco oltre si apre la Plaza principal, con le sue schiere di lustrascarpe e colombi ingrassati dai passanti; qui si affaccia anche la cattedrale, costruita nel XIX secolo, con le sue torri gemelle giallissime. E' in corso una funzione. La domenica se ne celebrano dieci: un tour de force!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepjFm4LwsP07BHZzuGji16Hgol_De3lKmunFamWfz4yomD50HVBedlrzyhJgC_dweb90qtm_LBQnMh3gf2PijE1m17CF4rtzMA2eo_SfIqQVg3VFdpu805tW-apC3SBv0bcGSQa6uKWEXCQCu-_qxPWP_QB7Zxd6mEoX9LiM80akZAzOVZ20u9LJh1Lc/s1209/20230820_105737.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepjFm4LwsP07BHZzuGji16Hgol_De3lKmunFamWfz4yomD50HVBedlrzyhJgC_dweb90qtm_LBQnMh3gf2PijE1m17CF4rtzMA2eo_SfIqQVg3VFdpu805tW-apC3SBv0bcGSQa6uKWEXCQCu-_qxPWP_QB7Zxd6mEoX9LiM80akZAzOVZ20u9LJh1Lc/s320/20230820_105737.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXze1BunAQZ4E8bybD4NFe4v55QGeeIhSGMveTpOTy2DGCuc3qsoq8HBlcQAG6iig2oqqp-jtJ2e4lmghkYuBn0PGBTsN11idsh7xorDUGPvxahaMw0bBUK-cIDE8fWrlHSSoy8m0K4Qt-8swW7OCIdQ5w-nypeyVPSAW20Idvm3M4awePu6eL86p4QQ/s1209/20230820_105824.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXze1BunAQZ4E8bybD4NFe4v55QGeeIhSGMveTpOTy2DGCuc3qsoq8HBlcQAG6iig2oqqp-jtJ2e4lmghkYuBn0PGBTsN11idsh7xorDUGPvxahaMw0bBUK-cIDE8fWrlHSSoy8m0K4Qt-8swW7OCIdQ5w-nypeyVPSAW20Idvm3M4awePu6eL86p4QQ/s320/20230820_105824.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfm8NbJyQTMWGgYDndRA-bLb1ubMrXN1zeQkBxdz6ozk7Dbd1FhjA2sEoePAK1WEywr3lyrMYShisfmaP1FlVmwmTxWqU7l05s0f7WkbidMM_mwefI30MJPq3Ts5foZ8CllEao5MPKdEouCS8JcSFBRVjzkPsT08rvdIQ95nFIrstpdAA1k2EA9Sm4vI/s1209/20230820_105902.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfm8NbJyQTMWGgYDndRA-bLb1ubMrXN1zeQkBxdz6ozk7Dbd1FhjA2sEoePAK1WEywr3lyrMYShisfmaP1FlVmwmTxWqU7l05s0f7WkbidMM_mwefI30MJPq3Ts5foZ8CllEao5MPKdEouCS8JcSFBRVjzkPsT08rvdIQ95nFIrstpdAA1k2EA9Sm4vI/s320/20230820_105902.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj24lThNazRnUvpdkGGyFZMNWEsg56AEWSLCPdWPg2yz1b-W5CsJ3y_5Q2UBXfMv2_EPMAz2dfGRhurry3IPVPeYCSurQXzclKiVWCp2YEbNPD0eQoq9Op0IpwNCInXr2D6wIxSMya9981ZJyMocdaMkaR7YeqQx7nMi3ZeJUq_L33MOxYnK-9B80vfLko/s1209/20230820_105953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj24lThNazRnUvpdkGGyFZMNWEsg56AEWSLCPdWPg2yz1b-W5CsJ3y_5Q2UBXfMv2_EPMAz2dfGRhurry3IPVPeYCSurQXzclKiVWCp2YEbNPD0eQoq9Op0IpwNCInXr2D6wIxSMya9981ZJyMocdaMkaR7YeqQx7nMi3ZeJUq_L33MOxYnK-9B80vfLko/s320/20230820_105953.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWR9QJI_tAjavrmrDKLZ8Anm72p3U1BE_ysHDZYtpEB9XCc7sviSoR7Si_OH8k_qE0-NQqmGTh2UoFH7ky0xUgD3sspqxXgg-_alTzEgkmlCVjaKxckZM7rGig78lzbJJr80q8fUviCmpeG9xO_YD3AOIlCfxC7XoLWabgTmrXyEs2jmPzNcNaCEzyAPE/s979/20230820_110020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWR9QJI_tAjavrmrDKLZ8Anm72p3U1BE_ysHDZYtpEB9XCc7sviSoR7Si_OH8k_qE0-NQqmGTh2UoFH7ky0xUgD3sspqxXgg-_alTzEgkmlCVjaKxckZM7rGig78lzbJJr80q8fUviCmpeG9xO_YD3AOIlCfxC7XoLWabgTmrXyEs2jmPzNcNaCEzyAPE/s320/20230820_110020.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi14Lw6oP5Zxtl9nhpqTz5Qx-5QQsb_PGVf0HGZT2bJ8DLHohcNC8Inir85ur-K5fMBzJ3WMCYs-HI-s6gYj6EPuVT4rTcjKJTCgjACCUjYcHSXxBjno20eUjbJerLgCQHTeLoijglW5n0j77x8sjxBBufXunp1nu7_1UsdApjEsaRBId5E62i4-u95UMM/s1209/20230820_110038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi14Lw6oP5Zxtl9nhpqTz5Qx-5QQsb_PGVf0HGZT2bJ8DLHohcNC8Inir85ur-K5fMBzJ3WMCYs-HI-s6gYj6EPuVT4rTcjKJTCgjACCUjYcHSXxBjno20eUjbJerLgCQHTeLoijglW5n0j77x8sjxBBufXunp1nu7_1UsdApjEsaRBId5E62i4-u95UMM/s320/20230820_110038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXIST_I9TS6KYJOdH3IClAyQN0kM4oMQEljBFlAD9oSRMx02wAokkcTDL0Dv7M7vSUmVIbiQusCMjDDCa1jdCnsObRkTSvqVEyFsF6R3IIUEJRp4ifMZ4hP81Sk89OoCe_lrDapGOISPS2NOggz1ZTKdtgbfYGbts2f5Q3dLYUb2n7ylW8G3cPT1VoWc/s1209/20230820_110111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXIST_I9TS6KYJOdH3IClAyQN0kM4oMQEljBFlAD9oSRMx02wAokkcTDL0Dv7M7vSUmVIbiQusCMjDDCa1jdCnsObRkTSvqVEyFsF6R3IIUEJRp4ifMZ4hP81Sk89OoCe_lrDapGOISPS2NOggz1ZTKdtgbfYGbts2f5Q3dLYUb2n7ylW8G3cPT1VoWc/s320/20230820_110111.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE27nSW-PBX8RSvaYzocj1atT4W5_glTBS9KWBW7urOGhLkATgE75iK_92hWfLd-69i3faRgGlXPubOdWualhsxFUE11aXtzLGf5fNl9_S-lrAmMjO2iXJNVNvm1Rz_lH8dm8vunkvQO6izFP120S8br-vueqqvCnANnORcB55vPk4xScio-eCcdqiCos/s1209/20230820_110428.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE27nSW-PBX8RSvaYzocj1atT4W5_glTBS9KWBW7urOGhLkATgE75iK_92hWfLd-69i3faRgGlXPubOdWualhsxFUE11aXtzLGf5fNl9_S-lrAmMjO2iXJNVNvm1Rz_lH8dm8vunkvQO6izFP120S8br-vueqqvCnANnORcB55vPk4xScio-eCcdqiCos/s320/20230820_110428.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Torniamo poi sui nostri passi, per passare dal museo archeologico (che saltiamo a pie' pari) e quello di arte (in cui gettiamo uno sguardo: ci sono delle interessanti temporanee, per di più gratuite).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3e6Jtq7CrWImMZYJegKFfMvhoaF8B63otAAAG6Up94PjA6y37ifjVNRSVv__8LDlSgKxzkvldg-rNQxcCOaZ0r6BWHelpnCawwTKF9C4nyIJEL-EUfMNcL4zBFtkqkyGEH60oxef5Wcs9-VbGJNRYuLdTkvJoIPFoQflkD_TTcg6kBt7LsKGdtQ4-meM/s979/20230820_110555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3e6Jtq7CrWImMZYJegKFfMvhoaF8B63otAAAG6Up94PjA6y37ifjVNRSVv__8LDlSgKxzkvldg-rNQxcCOaZ0r6BWHelpnCawwTKF9C4nyIJEL-EUfMNcL4zBFtkqkyGEH60oxef5Wcs9-VbGJNRYuLdTkvJoIPFoQflkD_TTcg6kBt7LsKGdtQ4-meM/s320/20230820_110555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioci94uAo8vQreIstC4kEzNkboD7phbVfLBoGGDjpFePx6fLCBCV0CHZKbiT0md4GUpIqy8emImvyeDsaijaxU60cTsIkbXgL7sjC26KSb8yaNXGur6YRUvA_WrYZlxf-qOTqXlYMLc0LUZbgfGQVY9SMiwiGDV2vJHtiewxlDsJqzpqXsgyqBbbgmNi0/s1209/20230820_111112.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioci94uAo8vQreIstC4kEzNkboD7phbVfLBoGGDjpFePx6fLCBCV0CHZKbiT0md4GUpIqy8emImvyeDsaijaxU60cTsIkbXgL7sjC26KSb8yaNXGur6YRUvA_WrYZlxf-qOTqXlYMLc0LUZbgfGQVY9SMiwiGDV2vJHtiewxlDsJqzpqXsgyqBbbgmNi0/s320/20230820_111112.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL1RNJjQDWNFDhUIUEWZrJPj2mwgXE-S1fUqriDgql1zwyU5OQQ_kiafl2nm9qFtSLNsM-TI8IMk8Wp8PlZwm_trwbsZiczFLlE7Dlv_0dYUfFl0VBm7hwhiiNsABeODAfTUow7-AkA0-9XpimDCE2o3InPOYj1dx7srs5sQwkBheJPd8TV5J7wYfMar4/s1209/20230820_111850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL1RNJjQDWNFDhUIUEWZrJPj2mwgXE-S1fUqriDgql1zwyU5OQQ_kiafl2nm9qFtSLNsM-TI8IMk8Wp8PlZwm_trwbsZiczFLlE7Dlv_0dYUfFl0VBm7hwhiiNsABeODAfTUow7-AkA0-9XpimDCE2o3InPOYj1dx7srs5sQwkBheJPd8TV5J7wYfMar4/s320/20230820_111850.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmUTtakVZwDiUuAiWpstoT-WAVj9sPUH5RUmlxi1RM1_8rHIfnt28eO-TpulnWG5i-AUGhQiZvQ2hqO8y_8NCzubajPlbkP1NNfIrij6XjAUzYei1Edlm40gCrVyxKzJfJZbaBDHEZBIkrQp_AUbhnVfmh1b-7sUl9MBah4zXRNB-cda6pLPs2lR7dlhw/s1209/20230820_112131.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmUTtakVZwDiUuAiWpstoT-WAVj9sPUH5RUmlxi1RM1_8rHIfnt28eO-TpulnWG5i-AUGhQiZvQ2hqO8y_8NCzubajPlbkP1NNfIrij6XjAUzYei1Edlm40gCrVyxKzJfJZbaBDHEZBIkrQp_AUbhnVfmh1b-7sUl9MBah4zXRNB-cda6pLPs2lR7dlhw/s320/20230820_112131.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passeggia e passeggia, ci spingiamo in direzione del porto, dove abbiamo deciso di recarci anche per chiedere informazioni e avere conferme riguardo al traghetto (una vocina intrusiva nella mia testa ripete che ci faranno lo scherzone e la barca salperà comunque oggi, perchè l'uragano è passato senza far danni).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22QUdBxA7quEEDODyFHAbxQLDs7u35sptvMZ0Nk0dCbUpklRhc9hD-Q0a02Btn6S1AzyG--Fp9BzAxE6tNLgItisIpxyW_0uK0rup178BBqNpiCLD_GFIMD-cf34O7uj4wDYF8OOGKpgbriVmJUWjm3QP62lK0_Y-IfoS56ptAdHLVMiBydScBwIJLcE/s979/20230820_112450.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22QUdBxA7quEEDODyFHAbxQLDs7u35sptvMZ0Nk0dCbUpklRhc9hD-Q0a02Btn6S1AzyG--Fp9BzAxE6tNLgItisIpxyW_0uK0rup178BBqNpiCLD_GFIMD-cf34O7uj4wDYF8OOGKpgbriVmJUWjm3QP62lK0_Y-IfoS56ptAdHLVMiBydScBwIJLcE/s320/20230820_112450.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgethz7-lDqeH199JOsk9Df1ojD65fH0d5rAYURa4-G6VKeKtfqgpGQosjwr7QQRq4tBDHneyrI2a4OPpIp5aRlqyajmKrqyzYdPwuTSRm6hFVCZ1bAGJoiM7xyS0VkpKekwcibV7MY4JY8RQKV0cl1BJtmdKV1P5VwT8AOp6TQfYdPBkSoqI6NqgtBIks/s1209/20230820_112907.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgethz7-lDqeH199JOsk9Df1ojD65fH0d5rAYURa4-G6VKeKtfqgpGQosjwr7QQRq4tBDHneyrI2a4OPpIp5aRlqyajmKrqyzYdPwuTSRm6hFVCZ1bAGJoiM7xyS0VkpKekwcibV7MY4JY8RQKV0cl1BJtmdKV1P5VwT8AOp6TQfYdPBkSoqI6NqgtBIks/s320/20230820_112907.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhunBaJEgpJPpKpioaCpQYJ52RBB8Mj-TyE2VI8MaNBeYSP3BAp46mFoSpEXS3sN2qb8-1LkZHVf-kl00PCojiPVEMEKbSWqZBL6DU0xc1L1k6UPwFolJbtOdbVNYTLx52I7GOz84XTSADxGj4tyGxl1AUT07b0DjoWDAjpqN5EFHdfu8M8xzg3qhrhT5o/s1209/20230820_113204.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhunBaJEgpJPpKpioaCpQYJ52RBB8Mj-TyE2VI8MaNBeYSP3BAp46mFoSpEXS3sN2qb8-1LkZHVf-kl00PCojiPVEMEKbSWqZBL6DU0xc1L1k6UPwFolJbtOdbVNYTLx52I7GOz84XTSADxGj4tyGxl1AUT07b0DjoWDAjpqN5EFHdfu8M8xzg3qhrhT5o/s320/20230820_113204.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht2BFPfO5i9tmTBDZu6O4mpZ6ij6w4hK380il7s-77RnhM3qrmLnH-o_0neCIUn8WatyjDy8z5SH0aV_sghqUGTNhTZZBscXdzGX-WIvoHIbcVfFlkxKrGw1ySB3FOfIt-Lmo-Nvr1MvWTOuVXqW-yiJyLlMpH40s1vV0LiXdt6AVjNP4z40VVk0KaVW0/s1209/20230820_114523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht2BFPfO5i9tmTBDZu6O4mpZ6ij6w4hK380il7s-77RnhM3qrmLnH-o_0neCIUn8WatyjDy8z5SH0aV_sghqUGTNhTZZBscXdzGX-WIvoHIbcVfFlkxKrGw1ySB3FOfIt-Lmo-Nvr1MvWTOuVXqW-yiJyLlMpH40s1vV0LiXdt6AVjNP4z40VVk0KaVW0/s320/20230820_114523.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di raggiungere gli uffici di Baja Ferries passiamo davanti al faro, posto a 135m di altezza su una collina e considerato erroneamente il secondo più alto al mondo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTvfyoKcukLIYUm_tTjGPUDqu7jyvEmHeHBymCbi0Vjy8gb7h-8ChfzmGEc7fooOxJPKGpEL_uDwsnXy7VssGQtcKUpwRmKVMiWlhq-LwmCoLazB41G760VJ0n8RoZKUqXibNsS0dD1d7UCmaJtRaUyzCW_V9lacZTHNm8DxZugM83E2s0Zzw4m9WtxM/s1209/20230820_114555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRTvfyoKcukLIYUm_tTjGPUDqu7jyvEmHeHBymCbi0Vjy8gb7h-8ChfzmGEc7fooOxJPKGpEL_uDwsnXy7VssGQtcKUpwRmKVMiWlhq-LwmCoLazB41G760VJ0n8RoZKUqXibNsS0dD1d7UCmaJtRaUyzCW_V9lacZTHNm8DxZugM83E2s0Zzw4m9WtxM/s320/20230820_114555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ozBVzLG4dhBoHJ3f87nCF5_aeUZaDG3u8Khc2BKOl_RyZSXchmYRvxdFndf4jkHYyEevVuzfLl1kanzhhI1kKjheBx0qPRjOQUjZ82G34rCk2Wc8HmyL1a4gcvO1lo8j6ePTXuPtxooBMfjK_DVMUXPjk_MDQyRLFIkM63e2rvvXHl0ilEH4Kk_Jggo/s1209/20230820_114558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ozBVzLG4dhBoHJ3f87nCF5_aeUZaDG3u8Khc2BKOl_RyZSXchmYRvxdFndf4jkHYyEevVuzfLl1kanzhhI1kKjheBx0qPRjOQUjZ82G34rCk2Wc8HmyL1a4gcvO1lo8j6ePTXuPtxooBMfjK_DVMUXPjk_MDQyRLFIkM63e2rvvXHl0ilEH4Kk_Jggo/s320/20230820_114558.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver parlato con la gentile addetta dell'ufficio vendite di Baja Ferries, l'unica compagnia che effettua traversate tra qui e La Paz, ed esserci messi il cuore in pace grazie a tutte le risposte che ci fornisce, mangiamo uno spuntino e andiamo in spiaggia. Anche oggi c'è il divieto assoluto di balneazione, ma ciò non ci impedisce di stare con i piedi a mollo e di camminare sul bagnasciuga alla ricerca di conchiglie. che è un'attività che mi rilassa tantissimo. Pur avendo messo la crema solare, nel giro di poco le parti non abbronzate si ustionano, e quindi siamo costretti a riparare in hotel nelle ore più calde.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDeVL7Qqcmn65PnK24O7ooqjSWJnIUjSit-IdkiQIiycMES0lI5NXoXgOch3jame2suJM7lD1hMvbYQy8839DFcAv1XjUaHEZ2uwzRjnjZpP-SWaoLgtuvcR9JkckQjOQu-Qa6oeXP4Emp4N8J4Uygq7wwTq20CVr2ah2bIInwmwrSnmCG-gRc__niiiY/s1209/20230820_133548.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDeVL7Qqcmn65PnK24O7ooqjSWJnIUjSit-IdkiQIiycMES0lI5NXoXgOch3jame2suJM7lD1hMvbYQy8839DFcAv1XjUaHEZ2uwzRjnjZpP-SWaoLgtuvcR9JkckQjOQu-Qa6oeXP4Emp4N8J4Uygq7wwTq20CVr2ah2bIInwmwrSnmCG-gRc__niiiY/s320/20230820_133548.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42UtuwdeLzw6ERDpTkmWwWeuVf3wqBC6ojqhNqJrMJunP1DqY-9UtV6ud2SMlOrbYXD74NKV1JmmN1iXnrz-ZVebG54mteXkyz3fuhWrMilZfLLbyQ2JTI1VS8TdQzPy9xj_BLyHXwXFRE8d2EQkSXTWFtUu7D9SSEpxixu6--LrM44T0PsEjM1bJN5A/s1209/20230820_133614.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42UtuwdeLzw6ERDpTkmWwWeuVf3wqBC6ojqhNqJrMJunP1DqY-9UtV6ud2SMlOrbYXD74NKV1JmmN1iXnrz-ZVebG54mteXkyz3fuhWrMilZfLLbyQ2JTI1VS8TdQzPy9xj_BLyHXwXFRE8d2EQkSXTWFtUu7D9SSEpxixu6--LrM44T0PsEjM1bJN5A/s320/20230820_133614.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0PxmsGb7YEg60-0fCVWttsAXA-DhqZlCZOE8n8WANM4EfnJiRhROg-q83uynG977-gKUflfuuwO9KuFPOIX75OIQ-mMGLsF1OfzriiTbsB97FcxikJnqHgoraN6twCnMzPidLmE-pQVxU8B0R1GMdiG7YRnW5esBlOw9rYZPwMdZyZ0ZyUGsdjZ0tBy8/s1209/20230820_141051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0PxmsGb7YEg60-0fCVWttsAXA-DhqZlCZOE8n8WANM4EfnJiRhROg-q83uynG977-gKUflfuuwO9KuFPOIX75OIQ-mMGLsF1OfzriiTbsB97FcxikJnqHgoraN6twCnMzPidLmE-pQVxU8B0R1GMdiG7YRnW5esBlOw9rYZPwMdZyZ0ZyUGsdjZ0tBy8/s320/20230820_141051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWDhHig8sQWxdNiCTMDc_HI75-0Y37REl59u3dLw83yODQbZByLjnKfiW6vM7Z05iV5gba1RqmUsujXw2w5erhIi7REORcOrJfmQFenxQGAXdg771lfeAq7S78vZP01Im0p9I4QS1iWA2o8MHczwLb1muXwuArgxQhCsL9xyT-DEaAaivQC3HLYOwzSs/s1209/20230820_142443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWDhHig8sQWxdNiCTMDc_HI75-0Y37REl59u3dLw83yODQbZByLjnKfiW6vM7Z05iV5gba1RqmUsujXw2w5erhIi7REORcOrJfmQFenxQGAXdg771lfeAq7S78vZP01Im0p9I4QS1iWA2o8MHczwLb1muXwuArgxQhCsL9xyT-DEaAaivQC3HLYOwzSs/s320/20230820_142443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Approfittiamo di questa manciata di ore per organizzare l'ultima settimana in sella, in Baja California, soprattutto a fronte del giorno di ritardo sulla tabella di marcia. Ci aspettano circa 400km, in un anello che parte da Pichilngue, il porto dove sbarcheremo, e La Paz, meta finale, dal cui aeroporto ripartiremo tra 10 giorni. Non abbiamo necessità di correre e possiamo fare tappe umane, per goderci le spiagge meravigliose, oltre ai panorami desertici. Arriveremo fino a Cabo San Lucas, la punta più meridionale della penisola, per poi risalire. E' la ciliegina sulla torta, il gran finale di un viaggio pazzesco.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo la logistica, tornato il fresco con la sera, usciamo di nuovo per apprezzare il centro anche in queste ore vespertine. Plaza Machado ora ha tutto un altro volto, e le luci rendono giustizia alla bellezza di queste vie e di queste case. Il tramonto sull'oceano ci regala sprazzi di fuoco tra le nuvole scure sull'orizzonte, e il ristorante sul lungomare dove ci fermiamo a cena ci coccola con prelibatezze freschissime. Insomma, per essere un giorno "perso", sembra davvero guadagnato!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Xzm0Q9-dmATv9E4HywmnIenSn0p8nrI7bw6tXbar1PVv8aVMg3IJY6VwtLbERK7-ZRsgywaDDeZgKgNq64Qr-5ey0hMxDv-e964pD8BbkHzVQZWW2_nzZFjJAwqWjfCO41C_o9QpT-wx19WZYZK7690Skbk2QOioCDBYH4t5z1MuyTIoYnkGVKEnZOw/s1209/20230820_183707.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Xzm0Q9-dmATv9E4HywmnIenSn0p8nrI7bw6tXbar1PVv8aVMg3IJY6VwtLbERK7-ZRsgywaDDeZgKgNq64Qr-5ey0hMxDv-e964pD8BbkHzVQZWW2_nzZFjJAwqWjfCO41C_o9QpT-wx19WZYZK7690Skbk2QOioCDBYH4t5z1MuyTIoYnkGVKEnZOw/s320/20230820_183707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKYVb26XBEp1wVg2Ol2qsl0v3au5wpXMkmZlzF6uyzRgmId91GKyWFX_ELp8cpUvspXUP73dWOwXSefIu-pcdQlxL5_Qph9pPwxvwLjMoGZ22dg2uJ0oqGj3Ko3HAnPvqlb0yUgdGJhuqMCi46WF2FMouIjMfdJq9Y3Si8nTyQcC9t5eettWgATcrLoE8/s1209/20230820_183717.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKYVb26XBEp1wVg2Ol2qsl0v3au5wpXMkmZlzF6uyzRgmId91GKyWFX_ELp8cpUvspXUP73dWOwXSefIu-pcdQlxL5_Qph9pPwxvwLjMoGZ22dg2uJ0oqGj3Ko3HAnPvqlb0yUgdGJhuqMCi46WF2FMouIjMfdJq9Y3Si8nTyQcC9t5eettWgATcrLoE8/s320/20230820_183717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEkbNOvL0gpYxI8uFUtO63LPk-1Zz23YYR0ixhg6bsesaUw00V0MMK4Czt2x2am-LrfqS-UuWHujcV_szlUOxxAHPwxF5T9ZZS8Mqpm5jtBGfDQk2S0KDxW6adPwTOGWYyyOq2YoXwwHMID868lW9D5riUu_C35S7MDUOhR8AOY45H3UikYIwWICdow1g/s1209/20230820_184235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEkbNOvL0gpYxI8uFUtO63LPk-1Zz23YYR0ixhg6bsesaUw00V0MMK4Czt2x2am-LrfqS-UuWHujcV_szlUOxxAHPwxF5T9ZZS8Mqpm5jtBGfDQk2S0KDxW6adPwTOGWYyyOq2YoXwwHMID868lW9D5riUu_C35S7MDUOhR8AOY45H3UikYIwWICdow1g/s320/20230820_184235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BA2zR1huX_zJkW_9BC8GPMFM7f9Di5QlAGtL1JqV7x60rK3Vhym7jMsWh8zDdBvYOyWJF_bSz8rPYfbnNlJk9pBHudjAVHsepvmwK9ZwRcRrdDbl8YGzu48hOwS7NAjuuWxKHEqgoXLnlL-fQ0Uf1rKCdsPET7Wy3q37Qi9D-KIpz8k7g_hRz2OI_k0/s1209/20230820_185448.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BA2zR1huX_zJkW_9BC8GPMFM7f9Di5QlAGtL1JqV7x60rK3Vhym7jMsWh8zDdBvYOyWJF_bSz8rPYfbnNlJk9pBHudjAVHsepvmwK9ZwRcRrdDbl8YGzu48hOwS7NAjuuWxKHEqgoXLnlL-fQ0Uf1rKCdsPET7Wy3q37Qi9D-KIpz8k7g_hRz2OI_k0/s320/20230820_185448.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUufwxBI2CS7SWK98C_CWVotgtnVkYnmHNi7jCEmrBc9r-b_o6fkKoitIy2RwEKoAQf-2dS6xOXJ-W5FefeWrbTCYlPPhQeRxWKWIrUotw0nuYnSmO1mqfjEIOHfSk3FGqStqosHTvcWKwL-6-T42wi2oMxTynDoF6HWB_QvGGsCNW4ZMaBu_FLPz1nNA/s1209/20230820_185508.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUufwxBI2CS7SWK98C_CWVotgtnVkYnmHNi7jCEmrBc9r-b_o6fkKoitIy2RwEKoAQf-2dS6xOXJ-W5FefeWrbTCYlPPhQeRxWKWIrUotw0nuYnSmO1mqfjEIOHfSk3FGqStqosHTvcWKwL-6-T42wi2oMxTynDoF6HWB_QvGGsCNW4ZMaBu_FLPz1nNA/s320/20230820_185508.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>21/8</div><div>Mazatlan-Pichilingue</div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente ci siamo, la partenza è confermata. Oggi ci imbarchiamo per la Baja California del sud, in barba a tempeste tropicali, uragani, Hilary di sorta e altre sfighe. Quindi dobbiamo essere precisi con la logistica e far incastrare per bene i tempi come tasselli di un puzzle. Usciamo a far colazione con calma, lasciando la stanza occupata. Poi, finalmente, riesco a fare il bagno nell'oceano: oggi il bagnino non ha l'ordine di tener tutti a distanza di sicurezza, e non si sente alcun fischietto d'avvertimento. Probabilmente temevano improvvise onde alte per la tempesta... Che non sono mai arrivate, qui. Ma meglio così. Ho visto i danni provocati più a nord, un disastro! Quindi mi tuffo, rimanendo per oltre un'ora a prender le onde (comunque belle alte e impegnative), sola in tutta la spiaggia. Gigi a stento si bagna i piedi, che si è scottato ieri malamente. Detesta l'acqua e riesce a immusonirsi alla sola vista di una pozzanghera. Infatti rimane a 30 metri dal bagnasciuga, punto limite di sicurezza per i suoi standard. Io pure mi ustiono, nonostante la crema, sul collo e il petto, e mi stampo un'ulteriore zebratura a forma di top di costume. Poi torniamo in hotel, ci facciamo una doccia e organizziamo le borse in vista del traghetto: una sarà "bagaglio a mano", con cambi di vestiti, materassino, sacco a pelo e quanto necessario per stare oltre 14 ore in uno spazio angusto, le altre rimarranno con le bici. A mezzogiorno lasciamo la stanza, andiamo come d'uso in pellegrinaggio dal benzinaio a gonfiar la gomma di Gigi e poi ci trasferiamo al porto. Facciamo check in, ci vengono assegnati i posti a sedere, e inizia una lunga attesa che terminerà alle 8.30 del giorno successivo.</div><div><br /></div><div>Prima si sta in fila in attesa dell'imbarco, che prevede controlli (nel caso nostro no, la guardia si scazza all'idea di dover aprire così tante borse e borsine per due gringos dall'aria rincoglionita), altri controlli dei documenti, file per fare la fila, code su code per mettersi in coda.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJpHr9jxi30KH2bBysDaDAgXwi0z7ujC7jLCYR9AwrveWxCnH5dTNFCX2L4-RCO_fevE1EPQnRkfVQnyUo8VpFjRhZyZZFJkjanpeN9muF81Ez3D6uyWxl9aDO8tJn5W5qPJHugnvD3pwmboF_YAYE-WhJUvf7YFp0p6sOb76mgLsvhcb1hTlo3FkKc4/s1209/20230821_124404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJpHr9jxi30KH2bBysDaDAgXwi0z7ujC7jLCYR9AwrveWxCnH5dTNFCX2L4-RCO_fevE1EPQnRkfVQnyUo8VpFjRhZyZZFJkjanpeN9muF81Ez3D6uyWxl9aDO8tJn5W5qPJHugnvD3pwmboF_YAYE-WhJUvf7YFp0p6sOb76mgLsvhcb1hTlo3FkKc4/s320/20230821_124404.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBF6Caq8vLnUcV9JlZuwYRxwU8V3xFNRCpbxRviQma04M_Qp6OJ45Hd2DtzVTmG2Q70dLcdJ9z9G1fckkU-lFcruI8QBZlpwkkptCDzAN1AN8E0xNKHPFAdMEDKWfTRU0GTAqAQEdVcSlO0R05XdS9RZFjXAbAoGFDma4BFOQLfistW4nsbEjEwuVb4aY/s1209/20230821_131624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBF6Caq8vLnUcV9JlZuwYRxwU8V3xFNRCpbxRviQma04M_Qp6OJ45Hd2DtzVTmG2Q70dLcdJ9z9G1fckkU-lFcruI8QBZlpwkkptCDzAN1AN8E0xNKHPFAdMEDKWfTRU0GTAqAQEdVcSlO0R05XdS9RZFjXAbAoGFDma4BFOQLfistW4nsbEjEwuVb4aY/s320/20230821_131624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando abbiamo superato tutti questi ostacoli, veniamo finalmente ammessi alla vista del traghetto, che è davvero gigantesco! Infatti sui tre ponti stanno caricando camion e container (perchè è una nave più mercantile che turistica/passeggeri); a parte qualche famiglia e qualche straniero, gli altri a bordo son tutti camionisti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuGYaRfl5IiEp_9_zdMnCx5pAu4ASUJOJK6pzlJ7f0prjLXvFCEJ9dMMtXZhZqHvm4TQIRO2gkbWiJ-8IxDHh4PnMM1wqvOlP6nyYSB-XTcIEqxYNsJl-1loNoXsdqVa_uta3pVDifhVziIdELwHx12GFcKuOTS3S5Bk8d_t52HYCyW03IWSzAq08ysD4/s1209/20230821_133335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuGYaRfl5IiEp_9_zdMnCx5pAu4ASUJOJK6pzlJ7f0prjLXvFCEJ9dMMtXZhZqHvm4TQIRO2gkbWiJ-8IxDHh4PnMM1wqvOlP6nyYSB-XTcIEqxYNsJl-1loNoXsdqVa_uta3pVDifhVziIdELwHx12GFcKuOTS3S5Bk8d_t52HYCyW03IWSzAq08ysD4/s320/20230821_133335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvL5l-jvEwGIAvousosw1QK-W3yrEgCEfFe1bTtb6IxdrrjAYw7fAM3um8mLSv9LdeUw1Zti3YUG6jLUaGY4gbgEi-s-OQ7gZ9VhcBz7gTrm-3Ye4VgheB-tdUcvDWvVJt-2MI06bVA2ZDstO1zwaJxTunbqINZiASG2ONQZxoSAayhFpAyFW6dPPLj0/s1209/20230821_133425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpvL5l-jvEwGIAvousosw1QK-W3yrEgCEfFe1bTtb6IxdrrjAYw7fAM3um8mLSv9LdeUw1Zti3YUG6jLUaGY4gbgEi-s-OQ7gZ9VhcBz7gTrm-3Ye4VgheB-tdUcvDWvVJt-2MI06bVA2ZDstO1zwaJxTunbqINZiASG2ONQZxoSAayhFpAyFW6dPPLj0/s320/20230821_133425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bY_9RquWumsQQwfjfdeDFUtwoBMLQG8bTRT5_onytVtFrLOOFbDbYeGubMwed68z-MCMH26_XkG9Frmv93cqEqp-RsZ69s7n3tKOUZdgvCAwNijBXhiyJxkYQJ3yS5klzaTnXSJl2R6f-5DCbsSJlu8XRkY-xNPm5fOVRr_183wKrEFZbMearHYn46I/s1209/20230821_133554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bY_9RquWumsQQwfjfdeDFUtwoBMLQG8bTRT5_onytVtFrLOOFbDbYeGubMwed68z-MCMH26_XkG9Frmv93cqEqp-RsZ69s7n3tKOUZdgvCAwNijBXhiyJxkYQJ3yS5klzaTnXSJl2R6f-5DCbsSJlu8XRkY-xNPm5fOVRr_183wKrEFZbMearHYn46I/s320/20230821_133554.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Siamo tra i primi a salire, e riusciamo a sistemare le bici per bene, legandole a un mezzo usato per movimentare i container (che non sarà usato, ci assicurano). Poi saliamo ai ponti superiori, destinati ai passeggeri, e prendiamo posto nell'area asientos especiales (che temevo fossero i cessi), che ci sono costati 0 pesos, ed erano ancora disponibili quando abbiamo acquistato il biglietto. I condizionatori sono impostati a 20 gradi, poi vengono abbassati a 16. Dobbiamo cambiarci e vestirci pesanti, cosa che ci fa sembrare ridicoli ogni volta che usciamo a prendere una boccata d'aria o ad ammirare il mare di Cortéz. La fortuna, però, vuole che quest'area non si riempia e l'intera fila da 4 posti resta libera per noi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bWQfKXkmIyoi2UFV4_J4mBwfSb6czhsI0nW_LBuixE4c7d1JGGOCdDTJFLTmdfDvtEfd9OxLCt7e0eDHdcLY9H8uNpREmUxxegwMoOpA6h9Csr9_EJG7cujN804ElollMOWOXF0bsOfDa9pluU8T2DfJRYfIaV8A-9-PPR7gRJnfTpX92Q0hMVZB0Y4/s1209/20230821_134240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bWQfKXkmIyoi2UFV4_J4mBwfSb6czhsI0nW_LBuixE4c7d1JGGOCdDTJFLTmdfDvtEfd9OxLCt7e0eDHdcLY9H8uNpREmUxxegwMoOpA6h9Csr9_EJG7cujN804ElollMOWOXF0bsOfDa9pluU8T2DfJRYfIaV8A-9-PPR7gRJnfTpX92Q0hMVZB0Y4/s320/20230821_134240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBbZ5luaSYkBzppkPuRtlEyktqzEDcO5cwA6hEB-n7dj01KQITzB8EeX4ysW5AJzc-PgRX8WPbk2AVDkz08wZY1pMJsFHOtUxnoLkkDOqw8ktV3aH1rv_l5vjLPr2Pcb_Xm_8C-adOv874mT5egN7X3Yagfe75-_8iNbJ9q-z_EOP5wZk3Ll7oN7r9CTo/s1209/20230821_134518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBbZ5luaSYkBzppkPuRtlEyktqzEDcO5cwA6hEB-n7dj01KQITzB8EeX4ysW5AJzc-PgRX8WPbk2AVDkz08wZY1pMJsFHOtUxnoLkkDOqw8ktV3aH1rv_l5vjLPr2Pcb_Xm_8C-adOv874mT5egN7X3Yagfe75-_8iNbJ9q-z_EOP5wZk3Ll7oN7r9CTo/s320/20230821_134518.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIdK0PWwmF7qGvDGfiE8elnL9zfWS5_GYZAGFsnW4xAmY_2NkrnrwV3rY70_8Dfw4ospclTuVC07Pz_0VTTrHMRZ379cTZCe-CPNmiYFQvDpezvEkvtnQ8dmiwPWmzxeqGs6KfAS1CQqtNbYFu0qKUhHtdjQRudLpk91nulfiHW270yKsPXLlreeIj_Q/s1209/20230821_134618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIdK0PWwmF7qGvDGfiE8elnL9zfWS5_GYZAGFsnW4xAmY_2NkrnrwV3rY70_8Dfw4ospclTuVC07Pz_0VTTrHMRZ379cTZCe-CPNmiYFQvDpezvEkvtnQ8dmiwPWmzxeqGs6KfAS1CQqtNbYFu0qKUhHtdjQRudLpk91nulfiHW270yKsPXLlreeIj_Q/s320/20230821_134618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMBMtEEcTx8bITXJ2pHLR_xxctSYe12lPbLoDx34SxiP9Hd2qrM29GZCtyedBrRLE7lGuM8TmL4kmnG3gCsuQ5slMt145vhPbMwWLLzbztlDEOBbSP8zDBZslXCDAJ_kfZ-9cO7Zo-veT4Aesld7BDMCaqEO5o0BIR3WFIJUI_fZ2wr173sdhlvAQ3H1Y/s1209/20230821_134627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMBMtEEcTx8bITXJ2pHLR_xxctSYe12lPbLoDx34SxiP9Hd2qrM29GZCtyedBrRLE7lGuM8TmL4kmnG3gCsuQ5slMt145vhPbMwWLLzbztlDEOBbSP8zDBZslXCDAJ_kfZ-9cO7Zo-veT4Aesld7BDMCaqEO5o0BIR3WFIJUI_fZ2wr173sdhlvAQ3H1Y/s320/20230821_134627.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjHqawvBqCvxdnL2dlC43CykgBI5hYAHsyjq1w6kyeXlu9e_gmrXcZokWv3VLP9hIJ_vFx4y41QDBdx3zn4ca7Rn7JyIXtpMDHJIn09x2kXiAjtwlnkAIGCvYr6MS6L1_2QP_Uc4cdHAiJjggcRCrlEK9FsD2QuX_Uk_8ZtchVRinHnCzbZcIQp48idqQ/s1209/20230821_135259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjHqawvBqCvxdnL2dlC43CykgBI5hYAHsyjq1w6kyeXlu9e_gmrXcZokWv3VLP9hIJ_vFx4y41QDBdx3zn4ca7Rn7JyIXtpMDHJIn09x2kXiAjtwlnkAIGCvYr6MS6L1_2QP_Uc4cdHAiJjggcRCrlEK9FsD2QuX_Uk_8ZtchVRinHnCzbZcIQp48idqQ/s320/20230821_135259.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMA82J2_ZVuJmJmAMx70SarhdjLNIrM7SJ-QNmsM6LSDjY44MNowBCGPIithmegVPZtxtPWYGfwLtSI5X9wD71OOwE1AxuPIaN8BPfIsnzAIIO-r1BUfoauQna3N3RvhjjKqo0m9n178_TsB7hOMlg4eWXUJuaW4W8MoIjgTLkJacPsTw-mhqfI-HAJY/s1210/20230821_135343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMA82J2_ZVuJmJmAMx70SarhdjLNIrM7SJ-QNmsM6LSDjY44MNowBCGPIithmegVPZtxtPWYGfwLtSI5X9wD71OOwE1AxuPIaN8BPfIsnzAIIO-r1BUfoauQna3N3RvhjjKqo0m9n178_TsB7hOMlg4eWXUJuaW4W8MoIjgTLkJacPsTw-mhqfI-HAJY/s320/20230821_135343.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Alle 15 siamo noi siamo pronti, ma dobbiamo attendere le 17 prima che si accendano i motori. Nel frattempo viene servita la "cena di cortesia", che, per l'orario è più una merenda. E' inclusa nel prezzo quindi ci guardiamo bene dal non approfittarne, anche perchè il mio bagno tra le onde con solo un caffè in corpo mi ha prosciugata. Ci danno pollo ai funghi, riso, crema di fagioli e tortillas, oltre a un buffet libero di insalata e una gelatina di frutta color evidenziatore. Mangio la mia porzione e pure quella di Gigi, perchè lui, per cominciare, ha inghiottito un intero, carnoso peperone apparentemente innocuo, ma piccantissimo, che lo riduce a un'ameba lacrimante e ustionata nelle budella per le successive due ore. Il picco calorico, sommato al clima montano, mi porta all'abbiocco immediato. Vengo svegliata dal volume dei film che iniziano a passare sui megaschermi. La tortura uditiva prosegue fino quasi a mezzanotte, quando però il frastuono è coperto dal russare allucinante di molti passeggeri, che tra il fumo, le panze e i quintali di cibo spazzatura e birra che si calano ininterrottamente, sono ridotti a balenottere spiaggiate.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS64MC-za75eM5ihMQn1tiheXij3cdJQ1MOcpRXWbZKczA75q9LIyi6NwKKUzZ0BYAAizz1n8NXxrda5I4NC2CIGdb9Qjj0JSG9w6P53Gw9fz38Iu2aqWjKssyzL_fuKyuGZou20rz665EEdj2-J2RYkG4EwRUD-NfBNpSHU9YFRt_AokqrCVJLrlCsHk/s1209/20230821_145033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS64MC-za75eM5ihMQn1tiheXij3cdJQ1MOcpRXWbZKczA75q9LIyi6NwKKUzZ0BYAAizz1n8NXxrda5I4NC2CIGdb9Qjj0JSG9w6P53Gw9fz38Iu2aqWjKssyzL_fuKyuGZou20rz665EEdj2-J2RYkG4EwRUD-NfBNpSHU9YFRt_AokqrCVJLrlCsHk/s320/20230821_145033.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLSh3Ev6hbN9lN3YukFIYTBFdkvRPj59lWKrAIF4t1pvY3XVylD-BqBXxKQTgo-c5B5BZD5gjpKLkzPG0uCtqaI3Izgtc3NioQAzJlnJGvgFiQxXrYwY7Hq4O2pt4AA1sWmIENxeZlF-LvO-3AvZLGbmc0fZ4UBAJAu4S3AQwWi5EoWO2gfWN2ga63OWA/s979/20230821_145039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLSh3Ev6hbN9lN3YukFIYTBFdkvRPj59lWKrAIF4t1pvY3XVylD-BqBXxKQTgo-c5B5BZD5gjpKLkzPG0uCtqaI3Izgtc3NioQAzJlnJGvgFiQxXrYwY7Hq4O2pt4AA1sWmIENxeZlF-LvO-3AvZLGbmc0fZ4UBAJAu4S3AQwWi5EoWO2gfWN2ga63OWA/s320/20230821_145039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il sole tramonta alle 18.30, regalandoci uno spettacolo dolcissimo e quasi commovente, degno di un ultimo saluto al Messico continentale che ci ha ospitati per due mesi e tanto ci ha regalato, in meraviglia, esperienza e incontri.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwxH5DfqofU1wAOeAfrniRY3x4Lnr4zGVX9psjA64o5tcmUqKqB1hFBexTFfqBEeiQaYKIAk5sMT69nwEefqT6NUWs2DkfceBSM-haMJYFuJQBkOtrTu4Kc-FSDPouFx32caazdv4krPvPaKWTrpsOH-2-Pj5WxU5py9V1gP1i65SroBt-7XqtQUGWOV8/s1209/20230821_183306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwxH5DfqofU1wAOeAfrniRY3x4Lnr4zGVX9psjA64o5tcmUqKqB1hFBexTFfqBEeiQaYKIAk5sMT69nwEefqT6NUWs2DkfceBSM-haMJYFuJQBkOtrTu4Kc-FSDPouFx32caazdv4krPvPaKWTrpsOH-2-Pj5WxU5py9V1gP1i65SroBt-7XqtQUGWOV8/s320/20230821_183306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzeJhth8LSvU_x7tBFnA2uMbwiml0Hd29F0cRDKeqWrPGSPAR8bdQuMpYbaXrmuh14izBtbRtXml2oZc4wyWTHmmCA9rFO1TmenW_Edc_L6FMTdMc3BkeDD0mu3vyeDReAiTKfZoChJGDYV_wJoZngZcflHQbltVe1IBO1QQh10oMZwBP0iyejHSULeM/s1209/20230821_183436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfzeJhth8LSvU_x7tBFnA2uMbwiml0Hd29F0cRDKeqWrPGSPAR8bdQuMpYbaXrmuh14izBtbRtXml2oZc4wyWTHmmCA9rFO1TmenW_Edc_L6FMTdMc3BkeDD0mu3vyeDReAiTKfZoChJGDYV_wJoZngZcflHQbltVe1IBO1QQh10oMZwBP0iyejHSULeM/s320/20230821_183436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Rst3Pj2sMsKNgYqo1o9LXgXVhCgEkFRGWC0sRotdRC37kH2qXVVZMO_I5xWxQx7bbRfVPOxJvfEUHbc23cuzbXMAMKHTUgC5ZVg8RAuNKDOzKqkLeDbMADNl7taJMMCrbXv974bUxJDG09XXTC4iQUAA5A7axlbTVDUyQJ2bOTXAxMDYx28d7cfJV64/s1209/20230821_183439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Rst3Pj2sMsKNgYqo1o9LXgXVhCgEkFRGWC0sRotdRC37kH2qXVVZMO_I5xWxQx7bbRfVPOxJvfEUHbc23cuzbXMAMKHTUgC5ZVg8RAuNKDOzKqkLeDbMADNl7taJMMCrbXv974bUxJDG09XXTC4iQUAA5A7axlbTVDUyQJ2bOTXAxMDYx28d7cfJV64/s320/20230821_183439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixsvqIAn9eCq-AhW04QLAYOJffFFlFkGDA-LklRk5xnEuv_1Ei3k2_oSLnu1Nout9DC0R-bBWhUGU-uhYLGVkYZGoXc46FpQ5100DkpF3USrkaMhYq-k0agzwRJhU7gGyyPWxnWYleFK1IpuEaf9zKofA3wcWaeMp-Rw5xkyjDTr7ge8vssRTwN7RWPZg/s1209/20230821_183501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixsvqIAn9eCq-AhW04QLAYOJffFFlFkGDA-LklRk5xnEuv_1Ei3k2_oSLnu1Nout9DC0R-bBWhUGU-uhYLGVkYZGoXc46FpQ5100DkpF3USrkaMhYq-k0agzwRJhU7gGyyPWxnWYleFK1IpuEaf9zKofA3wcWaeMp-Rw5xkyjDTr7ge8vssRTwN7RWPZg/s320/20230821_183501.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ciao terra bella, arrivederci!</div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo il tramonto, sorge una sottile falce di luna e il tempo diventa un fluido appiccicoso di dormiveglia, qualche spuntino, qualche strappo di film guardato (Il re leone, per esempio, che non avevo mai visto nella nuova versione non cartoon. E' stato il primo film che io abbia visto al cinema, con il papà, una domenica pomeriggio, nonchè un cult guardato decine di volte fino a fondere la videocassetta, quando, nel cenozoico, si usavano ancora questi supporti voluminosi). Fa ridere che questi film proitettati da Baja Ferries siano palesemente scaricati da siti pirateschi di streaming; quando vengono lanciati, sugli schermi compare lo sfondo di un desktop, con la freccina del mouse che fruga una cartella. E i nomi dei file sono proprio quelli piratelli! Che tipi.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dormo, dormicchio, sonnecchio, poi mi addormento davvero. Sento Gigi che non sta gran bene, soffre il movimento della nave ma non vuole affrontare quella che secondo lui è l'umiliazione del chiedere in reception il farmaco per il mal di mare.</div><div>Riapro gli occhi e intravedo un chiarore fuori, sono le 6. Gigi dorme. Esco ad ammirare l'alba, che è ancora impigliata alle ciglia della notte, ma già accarezza con la luce obliqua i primi lembi di Baja, la seconda penisola più lunga al mondo, e di poco, con i suoi 1200km (rispetto ai 1250 della Kamcatka). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitYm8K2SI8FubSu8wGd_a8JcaMl-jYCWzcU0BwjSbaodUIK32KRE1wcPTsiXAeR_Nfhrv6-TKLawnRlKGYkvkS38HyDZS7eV2HPf9DXomSAqpUoS05JgGP5WY9iptjYac1e4PUCG200R6Pcc3EfwjMNZ7GiUViN-hiQgp6j3bfPIGTs1f2ZAGppuYTiGA/s1209/20230821_183604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitYm8K2SI8FubSu8wGd_a8JcaMl-jYCWzcU0BwjSbaodUIK32KRE1wcPTsiXAeR_Nfhrv6-TKLawnRlKGYkvkS38HyDZS7eV2HPf9DXomSAqpUoS05JgGP5WY9iptjYac1e4PUCG200R6Pcc3EfwjMNZ7GiUViN-hiQgp6j3bfPIGTs1f2ZAGppuYTiGA/s320/20230821_183604.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj94isjyZugmxuJrqAwMmKo7njGFZ4Q7FqCD8yt_PE0dh3CM2qO--04U-zFENWkfTfktksGti7PrZh8fidA9dZxxoLtZIUkzmhCP_ehHuPrCGpBeDL-_HDbHxic2hd8VMnFE8ZnNOvsSU2IIVWtEcpeEP3gYCfco_kvV_eq9dHWbewpeS84JloQccu2yKY/s1209/20230822_053819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj94isjyZugmxuJrqAwMmKo7njGFZ4Q7FqCD8yt_PE0dh3CM2qO--04U-zFENWkfTfktksGti7PrZh8fidA9dZxxoLtZIUkzmhCP_ehHuPrCGpBeDL-_HDbHxic2hd8VMnFE8ZnNOvsSU2IIVWtEcpeEP3gYCfco_kvV_eq9dHWbewpeS84JloQccu2yKY/s320/20230822_053819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbZ3R7Mk7sXrQ8mN8bAzq0l6BrQDeqSkpyjqx4-uEErLdUVDWFWDclTsom1QzKYDDuuj4axXTgCsXR-zROY5CQpSz6f4rg7sa4LFePlImocun0RGt5bKTxVO6hMzZ9yTh6SpnbJscMPoQbDRjdm8V-QgAYOYDdU6gFqIckkNwuyyIeyOstUtESVedkv6Q/s1209/20230822_053826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbZ3R7Mk7sXrQ8mN8bAzq0l6BrQDeqSkpyjqx4-uEErLdUVDWFWDclTsom1QzKYDDuuj4axXTgCsXR-zROY5CQpSz6f4rg7sa4LFePlImocun0RGt5bKTxVO6hMzZ9yTh6SpnbJscMPoQbDRjdm8V-QgAYOYDdU6gFqIckkNwuyyIeyOstUtESVedkv6Q/s320/20230822_053826.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQnwu5V6kvxPm27-Hc1xFpinBi3Iqb7qAsyuHqUH7FwscDrYrCX_e8ktxT9n4XjepZSALOD7uf6id7gAALudRrtMAiM4RealNHJemhMVMZJLWvlvCWZsCmMo9C5ZB0ivUfP_pW1EhWHyY1UjYbOCVhusJneV3NECJ-NVKxVRuKnoSLw8XDvUvwp3AmnME/s1209/20230822_053830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQnwu5V6kvxPm27-Hc1xFpinBi3Iqb7qAsyuHqUH7FwscDrYrCX_e8ktxT9n4XjepZSALOD7uf6id7gAALudRrtMAiM4RealNHJemhMVMZJLWvlvCWZsCmMo9C5ZB0ivUfP_pW1EhWHyY1UjYbOCVhusJneV3NECJ-NVKxVRuKnoSLw8XDvUvwp3AmnME/s320/20230822_053830.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_hdcSkzeWSilDPZhAKSfNPV5c7rn8Gx99bAWhQuHRGiwHnHg-_E9BVhi_Qj1p-8dzva40rlEhdItHj2WH1412h2CKhCoNl9WkE9zoBFGsGQzw136O-SfRx8rQR3PnBYm3F3iLlY3-gZGbr7XEIgaulalF_3_xVRHQ_2JUCX-31TK9auL1UMrBZVxIOE/s1209/20230822_053903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_hdcSkzeWSilDPZhAKSfNPV5c7rn8Gx99bAWhQuHRGiwHnHg-_E9BVhi_Qj1p-8dzva40rlEhdItHj2WH1412h2CKhCoNl9WkE9zoBFGsGQzw136O-SfRx8rQR3PnBYm3F3iLlY3-gZGbr7XEIgaulalF_3_xVRHQ_2JUCX-31TK9auL1UMrBZVxIOE/s320/20230822_053903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poco più tardi si sveglia anche Gigi, con la faccia di chi non sta proprio benissimo. Andiamo a far colazione, anch'essa inclusa nel prezzo del biglietto, che consta di caffè nero lunghissimo amarissimo dishwash e un pan dulce. Ce li facciamo andare bene, alla fine non mangiamo nulla da ieri primo pomeriggio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGJmWu9Q0kI3ClmiY8DszW7n_RPKEK_v_Ko6Z2cSgF5VI0Zc3CVp1Ue9ZvIgjSOolcVjW5vMkpC992FieYnxNKORFWN36f10tE8kSaQRDVUzQwdtMdm1LRq8b2GMdKoK_ZgU9YQDbSL4hlouY9yPnirBafZFEdzBSQ5sCWfO05HNz_MQG0bXA_SAwTy4/s1209/20230822_054638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGJmWu9Q0kI3ClmiY8DszW7n_RPKEK_v_Ko6Z2cSgF5VI0Zc3CVp1Ue9ZvIgjSOolcVjW5vMkpC992FieYnxNKORFWN36f10tE8kSaQRDVUzQwdtMdm1LRq8b2GMdKoK_ZgU9YQDbSL4hlouY9yPnirBafZFEdzBSQ5sCWfO05HNz_MQG0bXA_SAwTy4/s320/20230822_054638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Nel frattempo il sole si alza un poco e gioca a specchiarsi tra mare e nubi basse. Ci vogliono ancora oltre 2 ore di navigazione per raggiungere il porto di Pichilingue, a 20km da La Paz. In questo tempo noi riprendiamo contatto con il mondo esterno e con noi stessi, ci vestiamo da ciclisti e ci prepariamo ad affrontare i primi 70km di questa terra nuova che tanto promette.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeLWRxz9nUF0P8cCcZ2BMocvMHW7xv445lYg2BF1gtruBqw6oduMLOs3kq042URa2kL8Caj9k0wYdL1VciJX6oWp9964RS3phB1h1y9-U0CH5tfvbGltu28zwTB1408UW5jKHqxoQKGDgfiNYCyr9B4hrh8imZR6pQGpwD9up7W2x0S7zBrki4Ywx4AB0/s1209/20230822_055629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeLWRxz9nUF0P8cCcZ2BMocvMHW7xv445lYg2BF1gtruBqw6oduMLOs3kq042URa2kL8Caj9k0wYdL1VciJX6oWp9964RS3phB1h1y9-U0CH5tfvbGltu28zwTB1408UW5jKHqxoQKGDgfiNYCyr9B4hrh8imZR6pQGpwD9up7W2x0S7zBrki4Ywx4AB0/s320/20230822_055629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpUXmVsjXA8vq3_cPXv0QsfjulFSEnruRrv8D3a_TsfNiT9CLNIVNAr9rQw7BkA11ufEDHNrvrGbTxlQkWnwGXc27d521zv7nSjynbTddr2kmE9djlIk_i-bxZmOPcTCoL3H8p6mhCbg5wWRiTJYiBZypYjX2LLiTF5I15tNhrNF6xwVNM3C0TQToQ08/s1209/20230822_061342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpUXmVsjXA8vq3_cPXv0QsfjulFSEnruRrv8D3a_TsfNiT9CLNIVNAr9rQw7BkA11ufEDHNrvrGbTxlQkWnwGXc27d521zv7nSjynbTddr2kmE9djlIk_i-bxZmOPcTCoL3H8p6mhCbg5wWRiTJYiBZypYjX2LLiTF5I15tNhrNF6xwVNM3C0TQToQ08/s320/20230822_061342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8F9cWTcsoAaQ-Czg4cdnTLuomSJZ1UuXYXF7HUfEM75DbLpIe6I4ipMi2KZLMIiR8Ka8QaahggKUJDdZbZEmYpUAiw-hsSeyW8hMBl1dQcebyrwVf8yJ-xtMntV3OrgMKr1n_3GvLG8tSpzgZrW3FBdbg31cbgCecoMVt-siNPPjYLU9t8C4Fgp5bjw/s1209/20230822_061546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8F9cWTcsoAaQ-Czg4cdnTLuomSJZ1UuXYXF7HUfEM75DbLpIe6I4ipMi2KZLMIiR8Ka8QaahggKUJDdZbZEmYpUAiw-hsSeyW8hMBl1dQcebyrwVf8yJ-xtMntV3OrgMKr1n_3GvLG8tSpzgZrW3FBdbg31cbgCecoMVt-siNPPjYLU9t8C4Fgp5bjw/s320/20230822_061546.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>22/8</div><div>Pichilingue-La Ventana</div><div>70km</div><div><br /></div><div>Come prevedibile, anche lo sbarco è operazione lunga e noiosa. Veniamo divisi in gruppi, poi i sottogruppi, si scende un po' per volta, ma talora le porte si chiudono e si rimane imbottigliati tra scale e angusti corridoi, dove la gente inizia a fischiare e vociare, finchè qualche addetto apre. Le bici sono dove le avevamo lasciate, come le avevamo lasciate. Gigi però si accorge di avere un maledetto filo di acciaio, di quelli che si staccano dai copertoni esplosi dei camion, infilzato nel copertone. E' riuscito a prenderlo nel kilometro e mezzo tra hotel e porto, ieri. Da premio Nobel! Per fortuna sembra non aver forato...</div><div>Seguiamo il flusso dello sbarco, incappiamo in altri controlli, sia dei documenti sia del bagaglio. Solo a Gigi però. E' lui quello con la faccia da narcotrafficante o clandestino! Il suo malumore peggiora quando non riesce a prelevare contanti al bancomat (io sì) e si immusonisce al punto da non apprezzare la bellezza di questi primi scorci di Baja.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh31Y2JdyAVRueUoLagL13maLofZQwsnHC584V5wEXgJD8hkWnCY2u6FTC6Xsgm1jZXCOFUzXmXGnc2EcIgZAw7prGOeBIZruXMOgf--YTfsQ25FjMKZoRDvpBtsaDQAORJMHpQqWHRe7VDyxHvoYwNRXX1Ge66J2glPKe_DTbYjOOBKB4C2cjlOe6bRA/s1209/20230822_073349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh31Y2JdyAVRueUoLagL13maLofZQwsnHC584V5wEXgJD8hkWnCY2u6FTC6Xsgm1jZXCOFUzXmXGnc2EcIgZAw7prGOeBIZruXMOgf--YTfsQ25FjMKZoRDvpBtsaDQAORJMHpQqWHRe7VDyxHvoYwNRXX1Ge66J2glPKe_DTbYjOOBKB4C2cjlOe6bRA/s320/20230822_073349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeEkuTFQvOgDerk8Phy3KvpvkpatExrfqfbouwjevoAJiWPu42DkqO0FDuh2NjplsVo0cJ_BRHZXftMOsXnMdSFEZgTAczakx2qE4A4GuzsqoOOoNebhDFbhZUFgu_rqkpWYnQNfW658Jrjtxw5SxALeFZ9b0EXJvZCJfN1mgleffV85mjoY8JKbRhs3g/s1209/20230822_073352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeEkuTFQvOgDerk8Phy3KvpvkpatExrfqfbouwjevoAJiWPu42DkqO0FDuh2NjplsVo0cJ_BRHZXftMOsXnMdSFEZgTAczakx2qE4A4GuzsqoOOoNebhDFbhZUFgu_rqkpWYnQNfW658Jrjtxw5SxALeFZ9b0EXJvZCJfN1mgleffV85mjoY8JKbRhs3g/s320/20230822_073352.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MafvQZrQI80yWDL-X3KK62CJqUGBRQIDL2X086MfqjSElmuIa027UjsT_KqAHgRb50WrvuLRSFqbc2NJTvbV4PGIvR9eiSVE8ltBlql7f9u2tIia1vyuD9va2m4VxbXehAA8BtyMlUauQ3CB_SteaBxhtdLRYzJczFdszcH6B3WCWeBuwePxwXQGBj0/s1209/20230822_073356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MafvQZrQI80yWDL-X3KK62CJqUGBRQIDL2X086MfqjSElmuIa027UjsT_KqAHgRb50WrvuLRSFqbc2NJTvbV4PGIvR9eiSVE8ltBlql7f9u2tIia1vyuD9va2m4VxbXehAA8BtyMlUauQ3CB_SteaBxhtdLRYzJczFdszcH6B3WCWeBuwePxwXQGBj0/s320/20230822_073356.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCbkRU9OGC4GWHLGy1IDxb5JgWMLaUHzNPT_AI2fd9HMIEY4DxF9dOK5-QuENY8godjawsx2gH0dJouJYBLTqxAoM_NXjDb7ZFpeJaV9QQjfJrgNBwkGN7GZnEZGZDpH6ZWL7Fmu_Io013UPdy7_JbJq3y3kBDf3XhpshpKNMSdLjeoD0VzP-pN47sqA/s1209/20230822_075926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCbkRU9OGC4GWHLGy1IDxb5JgWMLaUHzNPT_AI2fd9HMIEY4DxF9dOK5-QuENY8godjawsx2gH0dJouJYBLTqxAoM_NXjDb7ZFpeJaV9QQjfJrgNBwkGN7GZnEZGZDpH6ZWL7Fmu_Io013UPdy7_JbJq3y3kBDf3XhpshpKNMSdLjeoD0VzP-pN47sqA/s320/20230822_075926.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhdwgdPUkcLTiUxQYVXxm0I5pxvwdKVrx5Q_Zs5VcNXV2CLTq9QqR-G11oRPhEa4_8WHXBA5ih2vdPpb301niuWdFpCzoRSTCv8rlU1HrJxf5UbWcgGs5nVHkuyhA1_DQypxPjR6JLwfcZMWtNGdE2fsLmu0kI0qz3rGQPtvzUPC95vmgBIIs5Y8thTY/s1209/20230822_080008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMhdwgdPUkcLTiUxQYVXxm0I5pxvwdKVrx5Q_Zs5VcNXV2CLTq9QqR-G11oRPhEa4_8WHXBA5ih2vdPpb301niuWdFpCzoRSTCv8rlU1HrJxf5UbWcgGs5nVHkuyhA1_DQypxPjR6JLwfcZMWtNGdE2fsLmu0kI0qz3rGQPtvzUPC95vmgBIIs5Y8thTY/s320/20230822_080008.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La luce è cristallina, come le acque che lambiscono la costa. Fa un caldo atroce già di pima mattina e la strada è circondata da colline aride coperte di cactus maestosi. Purtroppo al porto non riusciamo nè a riempire le borracce nè a mangiar qualcosa, perchè la confusione ci scoraggia e ci fa desistere da ulteriori attese. Ci mettiamo in strada un po' alla bersagliera, sperando di trovare qualcosa non troppo avanti. Il primo impatto, per me, è spettacolare. Ci sono proprio tutti gli elementi che mi aspetto da un deserto messicano: cactus giganti che paiono colonne; sabbia e roccia rosse e ocra; strade lunghissime a perdita d'occhio. In più, qui, c'è l'azzurro limpido del mare, che contrasta con il resto del panorama, e pare un gioiello incastonato nel metallo. Una meraviglia! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcVxya5B2OSUQCa2am07QQHUFPIw61dmChDXnehubFvSLpgOZHMaom71OKlu3_Cg1c9TM0oQuHn34LxyXaLhgHbxSuWxBG4hhxpw5_6D0o5BdhhdYlPFdsRicCqzuh1X5Z50sow_NXZ0dpn5n_FVHc8e8oHqBgGNvxD0MVEKgebFtwHfmfOZEc-KG2h0/s1209/20230822_083205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcVxya5B2OSUQCa2am07QQHUFPIw61dmChDXnehubFvSLpgOZHMaom71OKlu3_Cg1c9TM0oQuHn34LxyXaLhgHbxSuWxBG4hhxpw5_6D0o5BdhhdYlPFdsRicCqzuh1X5Z50sow_NXZ0dpn5n_FVHc8e8oHqBgGNvxD0MVEKgebFtwHfmfOZEc-KG2h0/s320/20230822_083205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1BstjL2ox7TA-X7pQhhhTl55-Tshg33UiluF49CKdg3wHCy1ic_kN1y3FQVC78a_gaaO6va5kjfkwg4nWEc-uAz8kSVcN2oTjP7hlEi84wvHMnTyetnEbQIcHQHKX6l9Q3sIDv-LjtRuO8uc3n1nOuk1fiBLYh4OGV6Uf__zaBQQ51ZwylJk4jsxOFw/s1209/20230822_083241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1137" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuSAMxE6trqGsBO4ezOtrKjyZvAIhP1Ipi0210MSNyDQRNTH6AeQreX5UpkYF-tVWgHdoO9jq_VqPwpWBbX2zUDeXl0Da5Ympz3nnlvM-tRDptrTTcUJxzwNirHNLGzR_0_eotXww2hd4M_koDkEPmS1KyiwXWpVrIzKLs-zVDI4iCSz0W-K15Ls6qco/s320/20230822_083417.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivx2ad8UvC29tuURjkoPYG3zilQoYM9KCL_eKc-xVuxO-IyGKNh_g4Qui27xZspRjahBpdNa777uNvOE02Fc5kkxl5KDNz-OCH4Vr6HyAd-aHEB4hQCuc3sfWw1oxxajFghHbEi64o6bXlunLjQ053HqBs73Cto_RUHsXednFoQj_rlYVoeARVTSjIwUk/s1209/20230822_083828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivx2ad8UvC29tuURjkoPYG3zilQoYM9KCL_eKc-xVuxO-IyGKNh_g4Qui27xZspRjahBpdNa777uNvOE02Fc5kkxl5KDNz-OCH4Vr6HyAd-aHEB4hQCuc3sfWw1oxxajFghHbEi64o6bXlunLjQ053HqBs73Cto_RUHsXednFoQj_rlYVoeARVTSjIwUk/s320/20230822_083828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bQOENncpHvG73gw9bcqkeS4XxYoSRdbwjVEjigkYHmAUAZOnsTsotQdvH2hBNWL6a3szthribq7fbiaMTZqfnTOEwab0ODRs4F2-oWDSMZ3gpcO4AG9m-MPR_51K-O0A5ygDhv8JeWgS5Lxya-p3YEgrqw7HOVlKfouV9Tw0Y2GoYoUVZ_pwgddZh-k/s1209/20230822_083837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bQOENncpHvG73gw9bcqkeS4XxYoSRdbwjVEjigkYHmAUAZOnsTsotQdvH2hBNWL6a3szthribq7fbiaMTZqfnTOEwab0ODRs4F2-oWDSMZ3gpcO4AG9m-MPR_51K-O0A5ygDhv8JeWgS5Lxya-p3YEgrqw7HOVlKfouV9Tw0Y2GoYoUVZ_pwgddZh-k/s320/20230822_083837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ7_K64iEMJyyPE3g6-5Ttl003hEai4eiZ_gfqbVvM-03RQ6PvslZkb_uf9zADoSpjolL6zbWc9vaeIxHeFPTISNsf0rE8ChzkJKvUf33zAIfd5ySBjK4isfwcHlYPrbGG6slzVS6qBHpOzO-TOIkmOjXP6FaeyDynNZmS7YGAclWa678KXg5tV5EaKY/s1209/20230822_085637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ7_K64iEMJyyPE3g6-5Ttl003hEai4eiZ_gfqbVvM-03RQ6PvslZkb_uf9zADoSpjolL6zbWc9vaeIxHeFPTISNsf0rE8ChzkJKvUf33zAIfd5ySBjK4isfwcHlYPrbGG6slzVS6qBHpOzO-TOIkmOjXP6FaeyDynNZmS7YGAclWa678KXg5tV5EaKY/s320/20230822_085637.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJHUAFbHZbvtDjIr9kYHOyiZJsESE6Y8zMk_z8QiSoBC-bvQkXoInoypeE8dVziK-i6aQ1eLgpa7OAdmnyeuXgZqIOEtELC4rTRDva72E8xzAgdnG1AW8RW6xje82oijvFvdWQyORlrCOjhvr8iG9km2eHq6ci3bN8z7Cpdo9xWFrNlnnhUYzjoC88gU/s1209/20230822_085646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJHUAFbHZbvtDjIr9kYHOyiZJsESE6Y8zMk_z8QiSoBC-bvQkXoInoypeE8dVziK-i6aQ1eLgpa7OAdmnyeuXgZqIOEtELC4rTRDva72E8xzAgdnG1AW8RW6xje82oijvFvdWQyORlrCOjhvr8iG9km2eHq6ci3bN8z7Cpdo9xWFrNlnnhUYzjoC88gU/s320/20230822_085646.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdVBf8sBU1MvjKWges9csvrQO9Azck1fKe0i9V0gnBOo-nSjvH7qr69cs8j7fjoSP-rrEr7RoVzmanICMuhO7NS_8oteKfl7owzPcsb1md1o6XeE0BlFFDD157ekdJbEpmW8M-k8Qx1bJaqlJkI94XnqMhRnQO_7q4luBeqgwpYk57nj5h86AzqYDUbyY/s1209/20230822_091045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdVBf8sBU1MvjKWges9csvrQO9Azck1fKe0i9V0gnBOo-nSjvH7qr69cs8j7fjoSP-rrEr7RoVzmanICMuhO7NS_8oteKfl7owzPcsb1md1o6XeE0BlFFDD157ekdJbEpmW8M-k8Qx1bJaqlJkI94XnqMhRnQO_7q4luBeqgwpYk57nj5h86AzqYDUbyY/s320/20230822_091045.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non passiamo da La Paz, che è la meta finale del nostro viaggio. Avremo tempo di esplorarla gli ultimi giorni, di ritorno dal nostro anello nel sud del sur. La strada ci conduce dunque verso l'entroterra; rivedremo il mare soltanto diverse ore dopo, all'arrivo. Iniziamo ad arrampicarci su colline dalle pendici mai ripide ma lunghe di salite ininterrotte. Si scoppia di caldo. Qua e là tra i cespugli e le piante grasse compaiono cavalli, mucche, capre e pecore che pascolano liberi. Alcuni flashback mi riportano ai grandi deserti statunitensi, attraversati nel 2019 durante la nostra coast to coast da San Francisco a New York.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-bf7WX39KQS94R4ZP0gYA9qa47TzfVZ6TtN1WzxX3g108ctKm_eXHiqqNExcVN02Cc11cH37mJhAMl_zNYT3J6NkegJ-hy97L6j5NXbweS5rmIlSuceMAoujav7MvtP36GQT7nyPR93SUpf8oW_XRf2G0IVXbtAPD_0_akkvQgm8TiBoiwJjBYSQCbk/s1127/20230822_091241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="845" data-original-width="1127" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-bf7WX39KQS94R4ZP0gYA9qa47TzfVZ6TtN1WzxX3g108ctKm_eXHiqqNExcVN02Cc11cH37mJhAMl_zNYT3J6NkegJ-hy97L6j5NXbweS5rmIlSuceMAoujav7MvtP36GQT7nyPR93SUpf8oW_XRf2G0IVXbtAPD_0_akkvQgm8TiBoiwJjBYSQCbk/s320/20230822_091241.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHz5074rV6uME1WMkoXDtdn6hHP9CyJXRErY60yeVAM-__gfEkRLSx1lNdcFDT4A5PBiO5g_cH2Dsj_7EmkuM0-gCh3RrjcJFxH3muttnSthFH-icXyNa3B1Evr2xaS2sdKTgvvLMfACis9_PA4oDT8q93TMOScMIPu8Qbhjs9q7DhvCjre9vsavrbLA8/s1209/20230822_091246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHz5074rV6uME1WMkoXDtdn6hHP9CyJXRErY60yeVAM-__gfEkRLSx1lNdcFDT4A5PBiO5g_cH2Dsj_7EmkuM0-gCh3RrjcJFxH3muttnSthFH-icXyNa3B1Evr2xaS2sdKTgvvLMfACis9_PA4oDT8q93TMOScMIPu8Qbhjs9q7DhvCjre9vsavrbLA8/s320/20230822_091246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwbXHOIX9eLIk_yMrOs7i0Tj_IEmmdZibAzh_UPRr4sz9MpdAV0u7HhLXUConI9dt_Z5Vn-HV66C-miNEijanyOQgrLyQvv0gPiWV4GdH-ddG2Pq38hglzW5sadCWp026vzfDpUIgVJK1m-UXssvRWfgCBM0hKuni2psxUl6dqJ2UZr2C1RpgwQC29ak/s1209/20230822_091856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwbXHOIX9eLIk_yMrOs7i0Tj_IEmmdZibAzh_UPRr4sz9MpdAV0u7HhLXUConI9dt_Z5Vn-HV66C-miNEijanyOQgrLyQvv0gPiWV4GdH-ddG2Pq38hglzW5sadCWp026vzfDpUIgVJK1m-UXssvRWfgCBM0hKuni2psxUl6dqJ2UZr2C1RpgwQC29ak/s320/20230822_091856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando l'arsura ci ha cotto il cervello troviamo finalmente un baretto, un posticino lercio che però vende acqua fresca e qualche cibaria. Sorge a bordo strada, già con la sabbia fino al collo e il filo spinato intorno e quel gusto un po' da ghost town.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XKNXL8YPMgawYINv0qo79rdgAfFhJEVVn_6L9sfTtJLStqN1Y_raMU7GN-4nA17JL24bkLeqpvt5X_tW7bwH4oK4aw0P8J39xhLGav0PGgHbyuuVzGMxJGHFFNjnAH6GVbqvH2pR6Ob18bt1xcqOEqOIDfMnwxMHOhMRKvxDg0rKk7V9GV8_jFKq8zM/s1209/20230822_093511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XKNXL8YPMgawYINv0qo79rdgAfFhJEVVn_6L9sfTtJLStqN1Y_raMU7GN-4nA17JL24bkLeqpvt5X_tW7bwH4oK4aw0P8J39xhLGav0PGgHbyuuVzGMxJGHFFNjnAH6GVbqvH2pR6Ob18bt1xcqOEqOIDfMnwxMHOhMRKvxDg0rKk7V9GV8_jFKq8zM/s320/20230822_093511.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhigkJkeZplSW8FlRoRx-J6i8HdMAlB6QEX2wcU77ruY0pxq5xYBGHbO22e8UeLxZWQP73vsxFuoIJUp3JkMH4b-YKY0dBiGp8NtehjWB3aE7osPsJizjafAJdYeHKtNe_37V5VcB7yHg2jnCjqLufsi3FJFE9kbSPWLg5mksJAnlERImC1YUZLUToYeqU/s1209/20230822_093916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhigkJkeZplSW8FlRoRx-J6i8HdMAlB6QEX2wcU77ruY0pxq5xYBGHbO22e8UeLxZWQP73vsxFuoIJUp3JkMH4b-YKY0dBiGp8NtehjWB3aE7osPsJizjafAJdYeHKtNe_37V5VcB7yHg2jnCjqLufsi3FJFE9kbSPWLg5mksJAnlERImC1YUZLUToYeqU/s320/20230822_093916.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sulla nuova banconota da 50 pesos c'è l'axolotl! Che è l'animale più simile a Quetzalcoatl che esista</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ez9WDL_-4DVaF1MPn3byRhuHyzexd2PBiTev1s-ebzhAeOsxuYTFBDlesufF0Qb6MPStXgJGq-_g1uvGoWYg5Z6R4EPsfosdRI0a23wzdK52VjNq6HkENMtS4EfMdLBD5LyejraqupDXHQKIM_f2hUJ2-xtxSXQStRs3fO01C95XVERzV5Fe-WojyzE/s1209/20230822_093929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ez9WDL_-4DVaF1MPn3byRhuHyzexd2PBiTev1s-ebzhAeOsxuYTFBDlesufF0Qb6MPStXgJGq-_g1uvGoWYg5Z6R4EPsfosdRI0a23wzdK52VjNq6HkENMtS4EfMdLBD5LyejraqupDXHQKIM_f2hUJ2-xtxSXQStRs3fO01C95XVERzV5Fe-WojyzE/s320/20230822_093929.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5EndKGm0ervlneT9XIRYxGXZd7ExI3nNGL4rEC33bBQwomdYvmKaN1Sy-oaL3oFnAx3uSEXnUe0ofSrWF-5t4M_J5SNc1va6sFe547WH_ThOEy1MPhuV3TZJYj-l3qG-EV0ZZjscWMiNr-g39Vk4OQ1gGReneI2N42LoaSiqwEWBx9biaUcL1r5EUmbc/s1209/20230822_094021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5EndKGm0ervlneT9XIRYxGXZd7ExI3nNGL4rEC33bBQwomdYvmKaN1Sy-oaL3oFnAx3uSEXnUe0ofSrWF-5t4M_J5SNc1va6sFe547WH_ThOEy1MPhuV3TZJYj-l3qG-EV0ZZjscWMiNr-g39Vk4OQ1gGReneI2N42LoaSiqwEWBx9biaUcL1r5EUmbc/s320/20230822_094021.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo, rifocillati, per quanto provati dalla notte insonne e dai pasti disordinati. Ora la strada ci getta tra le alture, e affrontiamo quasi 1000m di dislivello in pochi kilometri, sotto al sole feroce che qui non fa sconti. Non c'è un filo di ombra, mai.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIlvcPwtih8rS9qvQLkC-vGeFuvoeBdueFpX7NBZ4u6MMI0AZIzRLot87pB36elvsUSKByAWG1nm0CAYST290PSA8tn7EG5N6kb1vR7_uubWAu7XaOlMm7jWp_bKFZZHIB3fAJ4-sf15RF6FXgpp71gJq4zkzharco3giRxxbOFCwb4Bgv5vliWQ5bpU/s1209/20230822_100730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmIlvcPwtih8rS9qvQLkC-vGeFuvoeBdueFpX7NBZ4u6MMI0AZIzRLot87pB36elvsUSKByAWG1nm0CAYST290PSA8tn7EG5N6kb1vR7_uubWAu7XaOlMm7jWp_bKFZZHIB3fAJ4-sf15RF6FXgpp71gJq4zkzharco3giRxxbOFCwb4Bgv5vliWQ5bpU/s320/20230822_100730.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiCldCgYjlM4e7BGxzAg8t7zXWqZ3S1mPVER8Jou03oHzHJ-LNEn0CJf6-KqBqfDw6SmxfN-NieLmfXJGlyPP263T8mjxvyrKU-LLM8RPtObTSTcEe_hNRPaXXmWtFnaxGR2eZ_SXYCcAZvsHMMTJTPTpssIvBHWnjIuodCzyvNJLmrfitih9Sp_qvU4/s1209/20230822_102435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUiCldCgYjlM4e7BGxzAg8t7zXWqZ3S1mPVER8Jou03oHzHJ-LNEn0CJf6-KqBqfDw6SmxfN-NieLmfXJGlyPP263T8mjxvyrKU-LLM8RPtObTSTcEe_hNRPaXXmWtFnaxGR2eZ_SXYCcAZvsHMMTJTPTpssIvBHWnjIuodCzyvNJLmrfitih9Sp_qvU4/s320/20230822_102435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBG0W-2WeEAfm5K7XB5NNr7owYDg4b5-t8JbeKrV0QZgd4HjOetenRdjmYqQFE13mM5MWEWn_nT4Fk6iHLIiaI9YBa17ZFrw4Nz4z4HevtwY5R8Qdiq7RiinoAVkH8g2yA17p8L0nBkkaP3DuXj7U63xpT2PjGjF_8_QVIzieM8tfOsitTlMwI93twh8/s1145/20230822_103556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="859" data-original-width="1145" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBG0W-2WeEAfm5K7XB5NNr7owYDg4b5-t8JbeKrV0QZgd4HjOetenRdjmYqQFE13mM5MWEWn_nT4Fk6iHLIiaI9YBa17ZFrw4Nz4z4HevtwY5R8Qdiq7RiinoAVkH8g2yA17p8L0nBkkaP3DuXj7U63xpT2PjGjF_8_QVIzieM8tfOsitTlMwI93twh8/s320/20230822_103556.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOCxnpVMYUwOBl0Xh7nw6MRk-vUSFzNNNLMncXEhgmvrfGUj2V34HxAwdpcxlXtY1uWMeSOeYppEzQcaxnO2Pnvo7-r790Cuo_a5psOLjPrKeH3FRIoxf7KlWnEJkd_vQirjO2DkfEi29M5l_UIMfMW3QR5YiTYJ93LDp3F6VE-emjhSr52cmuPO0TIY/s1210/20230822_103615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOCxnpVMYUwOBl0Xh7nw6MRk-vUSFzNNNLMncXEhgmvrfGUj2V34HxAwdpcxlXtY1uWMeSOeYppEzQcaxnO2Pnvo7-r790Cuo_a5psOLjPrKeH3FRIoxf7KlWnEJkd_vQirjO2DkfEi29M5l_UIMfMW3QR5YiTYJ93LDp3F6VE-emjhSr52cmuPO0TIY/s320/20230822_103615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Lungo la strada sorgono molti edifici abbandonati, case e negozi ormai in rovina. Quelli abitati sono rari, isolati, lontani dalla statale. Li si intravede tra le colline intorno, segnalati dai cartelli (son tutti ranchos) e dalla musica che giunge, portata dal vento.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZu_2Ub2KDFCrvvxSUSuKZ5MtNjlRWMyn2irWwCqo1nUKnauSbcVw9V-PblsaYn4r106xGjxK-CcGP-6Y_vpkqP-bxjCh9_I68RTIOfPkfPg31z1G_aDucd93_xeL8aVXdw51j03rn3M_ExHaCILR82M9sQEeARow4PD1OuhU2angKPH9YdO5gTkSQIk/s1209/20230822_105016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZu_2Ub2KDFCrvvxSUSuKZ5MtNjlRWMyn2irWwCqo1nUKnauSbcVw9V-PblsaYn4r106xGjxK-CcGP-6Y_vpkqP-bxjCh9_I68RTIOfPkfPg31z1G_aDucd93_xeL8aVXdw51j03rn3M_ExHaCILR82M9sQEeARow4PD1OuhU2angKPH9YdO5gTkSQIk/s320/20230822_105016.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJNuqHTckHVFa8Q27xRSnwN1DaRA0UjvKQeU_y5H2DuR34sav7VVWOv6Vva8bUjJSw-O-gEpto6gRiaaFu-OVGDJxrknViI1nnaG2zP-tnXi3MMokLLWeE9mlK2NqQG1H3b9y_jlJMl8shuXvf_Qw5LT9cX4Y7Bv9gUNRicJRook0-2cM1WszUWIfLSc/s1209/20230822_105026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJNuqHTckHVFa8Q27xRSnwN1DaRA0UjvKQeU_y5H2DuR34sav7VVWOv6Vva8bUjJSw-O-gEpto6gRiaaFu-OVGDJxrknViI1nnaG2zP-tnXi3MMokLLWeE9mlK2NqQG1H3b9y_jlJMl8shuXvf_Qw5LT9cX4Y7Bv9gUNRicJRook0-2cM1WszUWIfLSc/s320/20230822_105026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Non mancano gli incontri da brividini nonostante le temperature: qui due esempi fulgidi, tra tarantola pelosa e crotalo con sonaglio sonante.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGY81X57sijkw_6xN4nNPcq_vsCn5TV9sDO4GZY01s28ffTAv7r52LEVlREipQzCIizi1hoMlNBRYDI17v0S8QYp392piyYChrVY5FFXQJxsvolFFmcyJwb17kkSf8cj7RQEs5RoA56jVvdaSeSAv2ZYfckmKrcMF9XaUe_REyluy05J_4Drda6hCrH8/s798/20230822_111325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="798" data-original-width="753" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGY81X57sijkw_6xN4nNPcq_vsCn5TV9sDO4GZY01s28ffTAv7r52LEVlREipQzCIizi1hoMlNBRYDI17v0S8QYp392piyYChrVY5FFXQJxsvolFFmcyJwb17kkSf8cj7RQEs5RoA56jVvdaSeSAv2ZYfckmKrcMF9XaUe_REyluy05J_4Drda6hCrH8/s320/20230822_111325.jpg" width="302" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoVtgv53eZTZ0MFzYy4GklIJFfJ82iiPeL2IfQjmubebS0_BarsspJ2hPM7Mulq7mV-yRtkug03_cq8uGQt0ufh6hF51fhVyfll-J1MPtaqrU3Fn_4BM1n-nQNDHO5vY4dnYiP4PQc4nGsjvEg8eZ5DwgLFnCMJ7Sx9v5b5d_VX_XLcxTcZZCKo-BMCk0/s320/20230822_120531.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div>Gigi fa particolarmente fatica, ancora provato dal mal di mare e dal mancato riposo. La salita non lascia respirare, e l'acqua sta finendo di nuovo. Intorno, il deserto, in cui si sentono corre lucertolone, iguane, e qualche gregge o mucca isolata. Ma, mi chiedo, chi le va a recuperare poi queste bestie? O tornano loro dove c'è acqua, senza bisogno della cura di un pastore che le segua passo passo? </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uPJSy6oRCe-NGLF4My8sRzAx7BrEJx9eNMzqHu2i3Q26SrVUdnjHhnTPEoiUvUkCt0dGNG91wFmngJxZqnx_J0vkcsJdz9ifjqoPsi_59_CG1gtGsGLZKqUq6ecT3Ti05OMWBta4IoviH_TemF5HjaoRf_IOJly7nS8cGyQhpHbGLNjG23MaUfTetsw/s1209/20230822_111408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uPJSy6oRCe-NGLF4My8sRzAx7BrEJx9eNMzqHu2i3Q26SrVUdnjHhnTPEoiUvUkCt0dGNG91wFmngJxZqnx_J0vkcsJdz9ifjqoPsi_59_CG1gtGsGLZKqUq6ecT3Ti05OMWBta4IoviH_TemF5HjaoRf_IOJly7nS8cGyQhpHbGLNjG23MaUfTetsw/s320/20230822_111408.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwVMLa0vfHAo1QW99IoFd2hfKReaIXJ1RcpXfyX1XORRmF6aMlAqhKJzFl_RU_9kx7RIFkfI1liN5qQ_PArALLeSg0uY9kTP-JUD-7iegZTXD-THSFrE9xOeRGA4buKIDUQfVNiByKQM8kpOa_AjjkA_cn502ygA9ZyFUx-CrCbakZD4THpLBW46DeCGc/s1209/20230822_111435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwVMLa0vfHAo1QW99IoFd2hfKReaIXJ1RcpXfyX1XORRmF6aMlAqhKJzFl_RU_9kx7RIFkfI1liN5qQ_PArALLeSg0uY9kTP-JUD-7iegZTXD-THSFrE9xOeRGA4buKIDUQfVNiByKQM8kpOa_AjjkA_cn502ygA9ZyFUx-CrCbakZD4THpLBW46DeCGc/s320/20230822_111435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJtX_KXMX2knboHOjPD3PNe3UOUrM79IM73RyFYsSUVK9YTbg43SXhrW7PlD5NCqi7Bv8WQAfNDoGrceZiwCvTZ-FkvjetTvGkR0_f20hLZ2SNqEqn9AsaVlsinxe7tlGdQ9ypzoDeKC0sFXq98snNNbr3IFRDaVrvobjeMrCNhPqVnXV8Gvsapd6g6I/s1209/20230822_111521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJtX_KXMX2knboHOjPD3PNe3UOUrM79IM73RyFYsSUVK9YTbg43SXhrW7PlD5NCqi7Bv8WQAfNDoGrceZiwCvTZ-FkvjetTvGkR0_f20hLZ2SNqEqn9AsaVlsinxe7tlGdQ9ypzoDeKC0sFXq98snNNbr3IFRDaVrvobjeMrCNhPqVnXV8Gvsapd6g6I/s320/20230822_111521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDosVJKKCt41HJ47cUBzxeLtZd2kg3qg0yMdyWBCKNymPaB_UbS1uq7eY3pB3edVrvdzlh38D74rkaBC1knpvpZHojxwseNDd4FwFRu-e98_rpV0ugHaR1A5PwMAtvmCeg_1fakkCzWRuEclV7oiquC0MhgRoGSRgWpEJ6bsYzOiU-t2qG-N4n48JZLhY/s1209/20230822_111726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDosVJKKCt41HJ47cUBzxeLtZd2kg3qg0yMdyWBCKNymPaB_UbS1uq7eY3pB3edVrvdzlh38D74rkaBC1knpvpZHojxwseNDd4FwFRu-e98_rpV0ugHaR1A5PwMAtvmCeg_1fakkCzWRuEclV7oiquC0MhgRoGSRgWpEJ6bsYzOiU-t2qG-N4n48JZLhY/s320/20230822_111726.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-rbpD_BJUl-RQZqZd9WaCHSAUngBK5qiYLrolpC1kqp3nb6RKdY1IIwoVhjKzthckRSoHRzXGMW9ESEGIGfsO36_NdlxEsh_0_dd3y8eUfYG0dy9fCoP1Gr_ELlKxODlgBBUYDCnpuRPDN2EirAfJ0ZBoOTQWQD-TlXgg7L60FyLOIvhEBZjoLikB64/s1209/20230822_111810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-rbpD_BJUl-RQZqZd9WaCHSAUngBK5qiYLrolpC1kqp3nb6RKdY1IIwoVhjKzthckRSoHRzXGMW9ESEGIGfsO36_NdlxEsh_0_dd3y8eUfYG0dy9fCoP1Gr_ELlKxODlgBBUYDCnpuRPDN2EirAfJ0ZBoOTQWQD-TlXgg7L60FyLOIvhEBZjoLikB64/s320/20230822_111810.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH01KwlPDcXEOoTNFhzn8o8j7IHjHhoptdoWb_5fIAWMUXzShG60MdMACBx02-_V7OcQpJIBM3yWkeJuIpJe9OFzW4mOQAkcjPHQII1HaeJi87x5VSRJQBRROQSVVwJ2t1bMYBbpFXPvWsWaHaGOnMKBsFKd5KeV5XqD17SvxQ0Guza-arAVEk7WiQOB4/s1209/20230822_111814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH01KwlPDcXEOoTNFhzn8o8j7IHjHhoptdoWb_5fIAWMUXzShG60MdMACBx02-_V7OcQpJIBM3yWkeJuIpJe9OFzW4mOQAkcjPHQII1HaeJi87x5VSRJQBRROQSVVwJ2t1bMYBbpFXPvWsWaHaGOnMKBsFKd5KeV5XqD17SvxQ0Guza-arAVEk7WiQOB4/s320/20230822_111814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Quando siamo in cresta, che pure è un saliscendi continuo, incrociamo alcuni agglomerati di baracche e capanne, in legno e mattoni, foglie e lamiere.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjolRyKLNicu-_Uc8m1-LrXidIUwcdkNCJvvmeNC1WPvn9HBp9mo4GLU1B9EEr6eQEcSy_yVtNGIulYcYtlquU5ZKmZlN5IRgtlCM3I0AgDTxx8FnZTq2rJUqZjADVVCP2-SKhlSv2DzUJfa8VZKO9AfJM3kYDcfLDE0BhtQ4msPVbY-q2iYmsDBeivu0M/s1209/20230822_115048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjolRyKLNicu-_Uc8m1-LrXidIUwcdkNCJvvmeNC1WPvn9HBp9mo4GLU1B9EEr6eQEcSy_yVtNGIulYcYtlquU5ZKmZlN5IRgtlCM3I0AgDTxx8FnZTq2rJUqZjADVVCP2-SKhlSv2DzUJfa8VZKO9AfJM3kYDcfLDE0BhtQ4msPVbY-q2iYmsDBeivu0M/s320/20230822_115048.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikM2LosHWs_YFUz1WbrqfBP1AxQxtcCLGV6OYxQ7ElICGv-y2P6h1ZBQrqK8INZ3pQbXxvtz3JBW4khOAN1QmtJiz_8Ka6YeA5i2nImPiuTt9mmywWZqgl8JIiAXPSm6lRKrtoUPjDHF9XK1sQQ_-Pb-VeuxARs1MHcRAlWxxMZKssOHgUI61w653pLSg/s1209/20230822_115050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikM2LosHWs_YFUz1WbrqfBP1AxQxtcCLGV6OYxQ7ElICGv-y2P6h1ZBQrqK8INZ3pQbXxvtz3JBW4khOAN1QmtJiz_8Ka6YeA5i2nImPiuTt9mmywWZqgl8JIiAXPSm6lRKrtoUPjDHF9XK1sQQ_-Pb-VeuxARs1MHcRAlWxxMZKssOHgUI61w653pLSg/s320/20230822_115050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1VvJ6ha-WmLpHeQm3Ck148rarKOPsjy7yLsrMaqXOQJCrrXC64NnlbEZqjspje_mkL06VPMtolICEoxyhnh-YIAlklEMp11o0azyYgqeWFmM065g69M7b_F21yOn-U4HLmeotYkRAfyA2BBFhKdPKeIy8jjwqHpzCC2ztKAC89GrwYrJ3WyofUmEYuw/s1209/20230822_120024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1VvJ6ha-WmLpHeQm3Ck148rarKOPsjy7yLsrMaqXOQJCrrXC64NnlbEZqjspje_mkL06VPMtolICEoxyhnh-YIAlklEMp11o0azyYgqeWFmM065g69M7b_F21yOn-U4HLmeotYkRAfyA2BBFhKdPKeIy8jjwqHpzCC2ztKAC89GrwYrJ3WyofUmEYuw/s320/20230822_120024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjh09ay0YVqFIN4bEJUllXM_CdWhdZsRkkP07RXdoss4cL5zkoFQT-8p5AN4OD6MshOfDhyfA7ARHGZ5YzrtFwHbVTo8hN63bhf_O57WDMXGhQeZNpxs-WT5ANu-RPB6c01rYfP4fSn0crI85WdGa6LOjQw1LxAePZeHSszb1OL-7KML9h-S4ph2t0Ekw/s1209/20230822_121123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjh09ay0YVqFIN4bEJUllXM_CdWhdZsRkkP07RXdoss4cL5zkoFQT-8p5AN4OD6MshOfDhyfA7ARHGZ5YzrtFwHbVTo8hN63bhf_O57WDMXGhQeZNpxs-WT5ANu-RPB6c01rYfP4fSn0crI85WdGa6LOjQw1LxAePZeHSszb1OL-7KML9h-S4ph2t0Ekw/s320/20230822_121123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHYVM_swAQniQGUmet8Nb08SpZ0mm2VLngsmMq6sHUJ3CJ7viTByphb8hWWcr_fpEr7_ca4ksXCwkPS1lymnolhzhQJkukZLOw8oioCftlQDVuS1IDNa2Ze-VY6_lh8F0KRUYyeV7hX3UpYW_GQQX7k97_M9X9WFPQtf2xDik-3qMaMwus5zN5U48dw4g/s1209/20230822_121544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHYVM_swAQniQGUmet8Nb08SpZ0mm2VLngsmMq6sHUJ3CJ7viTByphb8hWWcr_fpEr7_ca4ksXCwkPS1lymnolhzhQJkukZLOw8oioCftlQDVuS1IDNa2Ze-VY6_lh8F0KRUYyeV7hX3UpYW_GQQX7k97_M9X9WFPQtf2xDik-3qMaMwus5zN5U48dw4g/s320/20230822_121544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjmBrcm-ZeDmYPzmvsCQ6t5xJ2KBCdi5IGVgQ8CHChx2d0EkKX_E2ZKZJ6tK6fiTo-oaV8SpgeteOyEqShuBwYsUYcJD6u1ruF5OnzCuJQNFF90DhA9Z9kOSer1nN64vHSWZW_Gk1n74fwebTq3Q5Lrsqbeyut6KPfCRHko288db9asGRJN-DMaQYI_tg/s1209/20230822_122035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjmBrcm-ZeDmYPzmvsCQ6t5xJ2KBCdi5IGVgQ8CHChx2d0EkKX_E2ZKZJ6tK6fiTo-oaV8SpgeteOyEqShuBwYsUYcJD6u1ruF5OnzCuJQNFF90DhA9Z9kOSer1nN64vHSWZW_Gk1n74fwebTq3Q5Lrsqbeyut6KPfCRHko288db9asGRJN-DMaQYI_tg/s320/20230822_122035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNla9DdQD8hyygoiHOfra7p_wqyKM5Oi-7qk0lnLTKtYF9cY5Am2ZRYHTx-iSmQPvRovzOpWxl20yMJCYuBfsz2naCm2zkfjFfoQfZIMAMkVWjxSqqmOj-Jr7_V5twzZyrTv3UqYFPk1lYSzxRSrAOxBVZ79BNUa2dM03-5QIbv1uedGWFW2PIcFV5q_Y/s1209/20230822_122108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNla9DdQD8hyygoiHOfra7p_wqyKM5Oi-7qk0lnLTKtYF9cY5Am2ZRYHTx-iSmQPvRovzOpWxl20yMJCYuBfsz2naCm2zkfjFfoQfZIMAMkVWjxSqqmOj-Jr7_V5twzZyrTv3UqYFPk1lYSzxRSrAOxBVZ79BNUa2dM03-5QIbv1uedGWFW2PIcFV5q_Y/s320/20230822_122108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente arriva il momento di scollinare, e tornare al mare. Davanti a noi si spalanca una pianura azzurrognola per la distanza, mentre la strada pare bagnata, classico miraggio da riflesso della luce. La discesa è una linea tracciata con il righello che si tuffa giù, ripida, in pochi kilometri. Il vento laterale rende tutto un po' più complesso, ma ci godiamo il vento in faccia e il paesaggio surreale. Sembra di essere sulle giostre con un visore che proietta immagini di mondi altri, di fantasia. Si vede anche il mare di nuovo, finalmente!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdAiBWSIq5rsU92QhpQz7K0_4eEs9H31Zb08is0vkBh936fQ1jkfiFJ0sOWCqOaR2NidrIl3cSunwbHSqLuOK8akncLZqirmTRdtmWIrqEMEuZNPdvhbplEueNrIEqlRb77zFKEz7AAk2uzSZKCpCopAZZw6vSAcdXDAqlboJWSpad6DKqHAX1kFtQfU/s1209/20230822_123144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdAiBWSIq5rsU92QhpQz7K0_4eEs9H31Zb08is0vkBh936fQ1jkfiFJ0sOWCqOaR2NidrIl3cSunwbHSqLuOK8akncLZqirmTRdtmWIrqEMEuZNPdvhbplEueNrIEqlRb77zFKEz7AAk2uzSZKCpCopAZZw6vSAcdXDAqlboJWSpad6DKqHAX1kFtQfU/s320/20230822_123144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDCWlUSPpzlrIbk2TXaxh245NoJ_rIRtE1AX4IFMIVYtq-Cegl-HM5mEKU3EoGkaa9KraQ3jTJP4eDCeYY-fDUvlkssKAuH9JWrJLVWtFx3-roW5NyFIsCUk1wHa_Pd-jv0NqI4HHd_-RFxC4SZ0jDxmdNCewsKGff9xAKyNy8cjwtdAwy9nJx0yKiQ0/s1209/20230822_123148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDCWlUSPpzlrIbk2TXaxh245NoJ_rIRtE1AX4IFMIVYtq-Cegl-HM5mEKU3EoGkaa9KraQ3jTJP4eDCeYY-fDUvlkssKAuH9JWrJLVWtFx3-roW5NyFIsCUk1wHa_Pd-jv0NqI4HHd_-RFxC4SZ0jDxmdNCewsKGff9xAKyNy8cjwtdAwy9nJx0yKiQ0/s320/20230822_123148.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLAKX4Jw35IpzjAgbRPzS70vBGQ-6iNakD5RlST1BOyQXjVlGB9pKZF1VkKpU033I3gmWvMKzEfuOAyitQJo5fRHol-hZzh55F7CC4NEtcBG3KmCmEWm1Inza8DKaUFXsAOcHEHWAZZg3i67Cht15yr1JPApxjsFCVVptvU8BM144YcQ21o_y3BXLPO0/s1209/20230822_123231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLAKX4Jw35IpzjAgbRPzS70vBGQ-6iNakD5RlST1BOyQXjVlGB9pKZF1VkKpU033I3gmWvMKzEfuOAyitQJo5fRHol-hZzh55F7CC4NEtcBG3KmCmEWm1Inza8DKaUFXsAOcHEHWAZZg3i67Cht15yr1JPApxjsFCVVptvU8BM144YcQ21o_y3BXLPO0/s320/20230822_123231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-xko_YFRX7ndKbcHyheVDS28mAYxlaOxvJXt8_VmN3_U9g8l0JuCMiv7tCVfuRYCdKEH63tr1M79P3vnfI2fKYLaJRCdG8km3Nm6qHp6QImo4OLuCyHnPJKlXlz6TJgHd0nal2uUsryYyz7VwV96WFLoy6coy9CaLaITQFy0m92P-2AdnWkbYoyi-6u4/s320/20230822_123720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcXtk52pf3YCuet7crJFtPt4uKGodh2f69EjOKSQi3gxtBJgg3czSNPZBjWpf_6wkUhvOANpm1TGEbq-BhlCO11jtllcch8UJ-Ma4rTpskHkBAWQ4oKV3dMO1h06qxbYaT_xVJa_Jvfbj2SUKzqimK95ye2wLNqbtVtA9HVrKJtc_PIxUFWsE7lc6e7k/s1209/20230822_123744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcXtk52pf3YCuet7crJFtPt4uKGodh2f69EjOKSQi3gxtBJgg3czSNPZBjWpf_6wkUhvOANpm1TGEbq-BhlCO11jtllcch8UJ-Ma4rTpskHkBAWQ4oKV3dMO1h06qxbYaT_xVJa_Jvfbj2SUKzqimK95ye2wLNqbtVtA9HVrKJtc_PIxUFWsE7lc6e7k/s320/20230822_123744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Man mano che scendiamo i cactus si fanno più fitti, più alti, più grandiosi. Sono una vera e propria foresta secolare.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXr61m21UeY4yA5gAtkGTvpsOHLyN_7PiiN0ziaP1yUwbcLksOK3vFLxuyXDXqXqPkQfuovndvqL3eWocgGIEs_uzDmDXB78gcUVlKEoTVUUw46iOpAKNvXJEgFHxFkstZqquE86uOnvGkDPQuPQR3fBerXIiRggPXJ9yfIhDz4aFIZ1qjyev-eeqLNls/s1209/20230822_125556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXr61m21UeY4yA5gAtkGTvpsOHLyN_7PiiN0ziaP1yUwbcLksOK3vFLxuyXDXqXqPkQfuovndvqL3eWocgGIEs_uzDmDXB78gcUVlKEoTVUUw46iOpAKNvXJEgFHxFkstZqquE86uOnvGkDPQuPQR3fBerXIiRggPXJ9yfIhDz4aFIZ1qjyev-eeqLNls/s320/20230822_125556.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSlhdIDoLalvhoLppTCqW90FGWKbA6VwWRblICzJBr1LMHDKhoeHELM9eyfx1oJgUWYyIb_fcLzh5nDr7BL3GY7LYCH2FNi0rEbVTcjNQakK5zyaES9dRAPKtHhmlpqTwSv92gudUArlZJD_fxLSMrU5u3Haq2tK3y_yChTy2eJ6-tuZJo2QJAOfBCQX4/s1209/20230822_125559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSlhdIDoLalvhoLppTCqW90FGWKbA6VwWRblICzJBr1LMHDKhoeHELM9eyfx1oJgUWYyIb_fcLzh5nDr7BL3GY7LYCH2FNi0rEbVTcjNQakK5zyaES9dRAPKtHhmlpqTwSv92gudUArlZJD_fxLSMrU5u3Haq2tK3y_yChTy2eJ6-tuZJo2QJAOfBCQX4/s320/20230822_125559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFo85IyTmSSFRwLVG6UZcNa2eu_T9XBjt2ZNPRL2brtcR9GVwSyI7TZD-q6y04bKEyhnp80g-xogK9kh0whDKlN49kOLCkk7f6byBAqwqGbaFJO-cPFpupNLHvOIDhuChQuY54XCSo3JRbJgATkC5wUA254zM4gI6O7zq4NkVWUtxFgrK0lGYtnYhEZvk/s1209/20230822_125602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFo85IyTmSSFRwLVG6UZcNa2eu_T9XBjt2ZNPRL2brtcR9GVwSyI7TZD-q6y04bKEyhnp80g-xogK9kh0whDKlN49kOLCkk7f6byBAqwqGbaFJO-cPFpupNLHvOIDhuChQuY54XCSo3JRbJgATkC5wUA254zM4gI6O7zq4NkVWUtxFgrK0lGYtnYhEZvk/s320/20230822_125602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyaf8L97ySBpFY3Kbha1IcRtbBnQU4tvWvykmlYRLzw7YAebUWN9DlRtywutAXkxCRwrjjKnqYKj1XWETtuFKGgpJ15UsYp5rY-cmY86MxII5_a-5iOEUKcQmVl3NWoHmcx4M8vrQEfAG6Z6Ev_x4RGQUtnA46ZEizSPO-moF2G_3yF-zKkgjaHKRPB8/s1209/20230822_125632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyaf8L97ySBpFY3Kbha1IcRtbBnQU4tvWvykmlYRLzw7YAebUWN9DlRtywutAXkxCRwrjjKnqYKj1XWETtuFKGgpJ15UsYp5rY-cmY86MxII5_a-5iOEUKcQmVl3NWoHmcx4M8vrQEfAG6Z6Ev_x4RGQUtnA46ZEizSPO-moF2G_3yF-zKkgjaHKRPB8/s320/20230822_125632.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtvzgh1pyPQMwfv6MPk33qite9rbFwHDpbqoQWPmlkzafftPxX119W-02fwvSd86hnYFWVAVZcL8Lg1hshwHhYw3X41bpAznKymDsabSd6rd65XBYWQxwDuVTkHWAeb9za9IT7bOKPSwP8rY3CbBvbZ4TgXoNLPayAvEhbyDMMCd9WswsMNcVU6jRRQEM/s1209/20230822_125636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtvzgh1pyPQMwfv6MPk33qite9rbFwHDpbqoQWPmlkzafftPxX119W-02fwvSd86hnYFWVAVZcL8Lg1hshwHhYw3X41bpAznKymDsabSd6rd65XBYWQxwDuVTkHWAeb9za9IT7bOKPSwP8rY3CbBvbZ4TgXoNLPayAvEhbyDMMCd9WswsMNcVU6jRRQEM/s320/20230822_125636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriva il momento di lasciare la strada principale per una deviazione verso la costa, dove ci attende il paese scelto come meta di oggi: La ventana. Abbiamo prenotato una camera in un ostello cheap, circondato da strutture che mica paion tanto belle, ma hanno prezzi da 5 stelle. Ci fermiamo in un negozietto a bere, e sembriamo lavandini. L'acqua e le bibite scendono come per un tubo senza tappo. In queste occasioni si sperimenta la sete, quella vera.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7riL_drcN2dLxDlEfOQCOO1r9Q35Jcec3LA-Ajc5bBRZfsgelNWW0IBQwKBTgMXZXAkTZvOJjIAdqU1lsQIsUlS7CTmC0nG_mDABsImgK1MCgg6KoNVIEys_dRfnMvevDUQABo2PsxkR80PyW3XRJemZqGXh1Ev8_tByxA1Veh8kzm2l5GoZ-q7b1xQ/s1209/20230822_131445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7riL_drcN2dLxDlEfOQCOO1r9Q35Jcec3LA-Ajc5bBRZfsgelNWW0IBQwKBTgMXZXAkTZvOJjIAdqU1lsQIsUlS7CTmC0nG_mDABsImgK1MCgg6KoNVIEys_dRfnMvevDUQABo2PsxkR80PyW3XRJemZqGXh1Ev8_tByxA1Veh8kzm2l5GoZ-q7b1xQ/s320/20230822_131445.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gli ultimi 8km verso la costa sono controvento. Ci mettiamo quasi un'ora a pedalarli, tanto le raffiche sono prepotenti. Domani, però, sarà a favore, quando torneremo sulla statale ripercorrendo al contrario questa strada. Il vento qui soffia regolarmente da ovest, cosa che rende le spiagge il paradiso di surfisti, kitesurfisti e amanti di Eolo (cosa che noi no, non siamo).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCwpYeOIBx9JT2hvsvsqi8MF54aInjhPvCC6rE0fFb6pANN0AWcC9X8gdH9cK655mTWzsyrppNuj9z4NkWGv3WdDTaGIZMwKCq4BKXOIhMga_e6pXxzgy4zh7_v2dIWgfC1tCyhkZ8249gBcAD30xQnmI1jroEOQGOb6ibxWMJiw2A6Xm2Ae3kGz5HUcc/s1209/20230822_132127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCwpYeOIBx9JT2hvsvsqi8MF54aInjhPvCC6rE0fFb6pANN0AWcC9X8gdH9cK655mTWzsyrppNuj9z4NkWGv3WdDTaGIZMwKCq4BKXOIhMga_e6pXxzgy4zh7_v2dIWgfC1tCyhkZ8249gBcAD30xQnmI1jroEOQGOb6ibxWMJiw2A6Xm2Ae3kGz5HUcc/s320/20230822_132127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbzYkzINqlwo_xRTAG4jq3EL6q7bBIXmGPrDrZbE6Zo0Oacd5c_dhsdVJJhU4hT-_RxwcnhCW9_2cWwNxt10oWFKu0CLluwNxVi3fgKcGLTTwgrUbzZGneO3SAABkgYCmBZ-acqmlUyJ-GJcydVXzU3jtwbmpbOn6kEj5H0iueO-cZ_2K0QYt7-ungKuw/s1209/20230822_132453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbzYkzINqlwo_xRTAG4jq3EL6q7bBIXmGPrDrZbE6Zo0Oacd5c_dhsdVJJhU4hT-_RxwcnhCW9_2cWwNxt10oWFKu0CLluwNxVi3fgKcGLTTwgrUbzZGneO3SAABkgYCmBZ-acqmlUyJ-GJcydVXzU3jtwbmpbOn6kEj5H0iueO-cZ_2K0QYt7-ungKuw/s320/20230822_132453.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finalmente eccoci a La Ventana, con le sue strade si sabbia e i cactus che occupano più spazio delle case e delle persone che ci abitano. L'ostello, gestito da una coppia di paciosi messicani, è spettacolare: i blocchi di camere sono costruiti tutti con materiali di recupero, coloratissimi e circondati da cactus grandiosi (quello centrale ha più di 200 anni, ci dicono).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kEs8nlLhZqeE4wCDz0Sz3MDqcq-s6i63qoUhTCM0RilAh1v1-MO1m8X3ghqoJzZH-Y32Z3qOLfJa2gC4w3Zy-rdo7IJti3sZSJlafAvXBlGzJWgLt5RlZMcyjhEZPDFt5iYEvuM_i03byOonJErfA1_C4zWECcVE-wyD_-DzqVnyHkFrDYRRtvO8q00/s1209/20230822_135540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kEs8nlLhZqeE4wCDz0Sz3MDqcq-s6i63qoUhTCM0RilAh1v1-MO1m8X3ghqoJzZH-Y32Z3qOLfJa2gC4w3Zy-rdo7IJti3sZSJlafAvXBlGzJWgLt5RlZMcyjhEZPDFt5iYEvuM_i03byOonJErfA1_C4zWECcVE-wyD_-DzqVnyHkFrDYRRtvO8q00/s320/20230822_135540.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi56euMOhKgjgs8pE5FamtPpzDnf8BdJQlIKfNOSprrL-1CdW-AlvMY2PwJ9z3Wi0ninJwbdKHuD3wl_vczHRryBh8fFbYy04MRc5nbXB7MF3vkpFRJZudUr-PDGHIrjoviiy8eUnXL26ZyXKE1oGY4YYb4yuddGY91hSaVTmSpuq1OtYYFp4McMDJI3WE/s1209/20230822_135852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi56euMOhKgjgs8pE5FamtPpzDnf8BdJQlIKfNOSprrL-1CdW-AlvMY2PwJ9z3Wi0ninJwbdKHuD3wl_vczHRryBh8fFbYy04MRc5nbXB7MF3vkpFRJZudUr-PDGHIrjoviiy8eUnXL26ZyXKE1oGY4YYb4yuddGY91hSaVTmSpuq1OtYYFp4McMDJI3WE/s320/20230822_135852.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8B961V_mkJFP9G59MfGuzRjWROMaXNzmQ8ls2tczFgdU_F30i4qiudkhb5v2ubQ9XzsEEHXsQFMxKLXA27He_X1J5yHz1TDptPZhIt__rWqVI1QPQckmkyvDl6Ph7UatzdfEz1FJYMHdu5EFWaEtoFCgn9muNNln8yB37OMqRjc49VQuYfK68n9HCFuE/s1209/20230822_140239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8B961V_mkJFP9G59MfGuzRjWROMaXNzmQ8ls2tczFgdU_F30i4qiudkhb5v2ubQ9XzsEEHXsQFMxKLXA27He_X1J5yHz1TDptPZhIt__rWqVI1QPQckmkyvDl6Ph7UatzdfEz1FJYMHdu5EFWaEtoFCgn9muNNln8yB37OMqRjc49VQuYfK68n9HCFuE/s320/20230822_140239.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWY_26rox-FfXh19-FtUOdXvSX9qfzdoN__1uK4QBxHss2XcutOBrI6RCeducQw6qamA8TSw80d4hKwHarl4nuI3Wf2UDQJzr75ZGWG7kga_b5J82UfJ2vt4H1-gUGN6-Kjp2FQrUcXoXdca-u0qrnStGXtI45YMO9zScXrqDi5NTrBKUz47r5F1PziDQ/s1209/20230822_140257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWY_26rox-FfXh19-FtUOdXvSX9qfzdoN__1uK4QBxHss2XcutOBrI6RCeducQw6qamA8TSw80d4hKwHarl4nuI3Wf2UDQJzr75ZGWG7kga_b5J82UfJ2vt4H1-gUGN6-Kjp2FQrUcXoXdca-u0qrnStGXtI45YMO9zScXrqDi5NTrBKUz47r5F1PziDQ/s320/20230822_140257.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhy0046raPyHnp-2SrA6UJrOgPbXqC1B8RHI1uVZHm98GiTnrJPp6Sol2CVZXRTJlTR1CXyLBVKZtBhy5WLOX9TUp-We2m82v3rt33p4nnNOu3iKowpG7Rjf1re_5znVwBCCInB4Xs1wEUDXcwXA9QFf1i2-Dy1z-FL7hqayM-cQkVmQa2GIGNFhF1FZk/s1209/20230822_140328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhy0046raPyHnp-2SrA6UJrOgPbXqC1B8RHI1uVZHm98GiTnrJPp6Sol2CVZXRTJlTR1CXyLBVKZtBhy5WLOX9TUp-We2m82v3rt33p4nnNOu3iKowpG7Rjf1re_5znVwBCCInB4Xs1wEUDXcwXA9QFf1i2-Dy1z-FL7hqayM-cQkVmQa2GIGNFhF1FZk/s320/20230822_140328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE1AdnWeEv1mhn3rqym46KdHoyrDz7oiq0hmpS3XDMLib-u_0XJO9Q_q0V_ax3wPuEVVozBXtMibfbC2L19mS_V4DnlJ_z0oDxTww3Bwrbuna7TQxHrUhTWU586HPRwXXOIc7oNccaUY8S9ulb5XSrHWK7imkpXhQIczh58NYfqXR58qSbyk8WehrtL54/s1209/20230822_140353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE1AdnWeEv1mhn3rqym46KdHoyrDz7oiq0hmpS3XDMLib-u_0XJO9Q_q0V_ax3wPuEVVozBXtMibfbC2L19mS_V4DnlJ_z0oDxTww3Bwrbuna7TQxHrUhTWU586HPRwXXOIc7oNccaUY8S9ulb5XSrHWK7imkpXhQIczh58NYfqXR58qSbyk8WehrtL54/s320/20230822_140353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo qualche attimo di svenimento sotto ai ventilatori e una doccia fresca, mentre Gigi cambia l'ennesima camera d'aria e poi riposa, io vado in spiaggia. Ormai è quasi il tramonto e il sole non morde più, anzi, c'è una brezza fresca e salata che rende più piacevole stare all'aperto che non in camera, che è un discreto forno. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbkfo_UxKY8Tou73k2WE9D8Q_HFUOzYJeLblfRABgiH7if4maAeCpccYMtq6Ior3E30dUp0UIo4dqg8scsea_6oe6gcnQcXYWTGbVZTuNxNIQvinkpJxMAYQ4r7yLPmrP4ZmDCnye_F1KjYakkqC74_0APiNKDjmFglYoupNqmJLDrOQ6UeU14OvKh9XU/s1209/20230822_174411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbkfo_UxKY8Tou73k2WE9D8Q_HFUOzYJeLblfRABgiH7if4maAeCpccYMtq6Ior3E30dUp0UIo4dqg8scsea_6oe6gcnQcXYWTGbVZTuNxNIQvinkpJxMAYQ4r7yLPmrP4ZmDCnye_F1KjYakkqC74_0APiNKDjmFglYoupNqmJLDrOQ6UeU14OvKh9XU/s320/20230822_174411.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La spiaggia è quasi deserta, ci sono solo un paio di mamme con prole e un ragazzo con tre canetti felici. In compenso non mancano gabbiani e pellicani, che si ingozzano delle numerose carcasse di pesci giganteschi portate a riva dalle onde. Nella sabbia è pieno di lische, pezzi di corallo bianco e conchiglie. Pochissimi i rifiuti. Si vede che non è molto frequentato questo litorale! Passeggio un po' sul bagnasciuga, fino a trovare il punto giusto per fare un tuffo. L'acqua è tiepida e calma, e questo bagnetto mi rimette al mondo dopo la stasi di ieri e il caldo di oggi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE8AwZRBVYIO_PYfhyWWKkuK52335j9R2XH33bUEmWd8wIwaNetmf_TU3pBmj25BqEBfwNSrUM3ul5r-WIqrt1o4HKw-1eUK99zjq8uSeJ5ZUXLTd1bBH8Rax7DKUHgRd9DewgASyMBRJEBmoZba16YMTkVUmBWL0VC5FDh5v0cd6tvA6KZnDgh8ldsY/s1209/20230822_174642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE8AwZRBVYIO_PYfhyWWKkuK52335j9R2XH33bUEmWd8wIwaNetmf_TU3pBmj25BqEBfwNSrUM3ul5r-WIqrt1o4HKw-1eUK99zjq8uSeJ5ZUXLTd1bBH8Rax7DKUHgRd9DewgASyMBRJEBmoZba16YMTkVUmBWL0VC5FDh5v0cd6tvA6KZnDgh8ldsY/s320/20230822_174642.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpX7y9UVxUaXCshtccrBm2d7wSA-Gc1Q94Y5g-iosaUKi5YwTeoaltMyto5trqucBGJXw-YAwS0zrVm0wKWPLdv4-MFvA3BZV3jaWwe_5uUxISXoeslxEMWNq032exGktuAQkHrkDxsaByA9wvVWUwoNGY9fANbJm79KV5Vx131qjO_CWsricG-hn-qLE/s1209/20230822_174645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpX7y9UVxUaXCshtccrBm2d7wSA-Gc1Q94Y5g-iosaUKi5YwTeoaltMyto5trqucBGJXw-YAwS0zrVm0wKWPLdv4-MFvA3BZV3jaWwe_5uUxISXoeslxEMWNq032exGktuAQkHrkDxsaByA9wvVWUwoNGY9fANbJm79KV5Vx131qjO_CWsricG-hn-qLE/s320/20230822_174645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsSYnaxwtKp2_cM6qFuR7lTTYE2lBSrzTyG4V9AicAUE8LbQLGVbQzYErUqKvcm-oYIBxI8Tr9w4srXeySxHuuNnj9EbBJbDhmTjzgFMwuxEHTJIpLkM_31ohOwnw4hDefLTZm48XptUBcHo8V99-8gsy0-a1ExjQQO9gryenWr2Kff5Cc94lhjuYigxA/s1209/20230822_174706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsSYnaxwtKp2_cM6qFuR7lTTYE2lBSrzTyG4V9AicAUE8LbQLGVbQzYErUqKvcm-oYIBxI8Tr9w4srXeySxHuuNnj9EbBJbDhmTjzgFMwuxEHTJIpLkM_31ohOwnw4hDefLTZm48XptUBcHo8V99-8gsy0-a1ExjQQO9gryenWr2Kff5Cc94lhjuYigxA/s320/20230822_174706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic4i2ib_lIdZEqBkfOesgmlPshavOmUOAHo2Ak-0k43HJEDG-k54jVcZbh443ReQbrwcUYQp44cnTmUst3thWJKnPvLgbs2EfqiMm_-azNacgEBRR5qz5SxDjukdZFC1QzyZOcNEczMl5eWIwf3A_lie9EeJS7LQVJbyrt7-aUW9Bbag57u9LoZF8dH7I/s1209/20230822_174713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic4i2ib_lIdZEqBkfOesgmlPshavOmUOAHo2Ak-0k43HJEDG-k54jVcZbh443ReQbrwcUYQp44cnTmUst3thWJKnPvLgbs2EfqiMm_-azNacgEBRR5qz5SxDjukdZFC1QzyZOcNEczMl5eWIwf3A_lie9EeJS7LQVJbyrt7-aUW9Bbag57u9LoZF8dH7I/s320/20230822_174713.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7UgSNDVXm7KZyp32keJDXQIgg46DYa0qCCFSw9LxGhI8HNLNzH-YETvH9OW80b1JmITUym9ItP-9u6BEDAmwIm6gGxYMElSBypYkZewr2mBtsIRnnTbt0aAz2KdZwBH7flI_45jU05aBFJJ24Rjqzu5pPFDY7jMeoulzFS3kDRyf0tLuTs8-N0KTJ20/s1209/20230822_175137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD7UgSNDVXm7KZyp32keJDXQIgg46DYa0qCCFSw9LxGhI8HNLNzH-YETvH9OW80b1JmITUym9ItP-9u6BEDAmwIm6gGxYMElSBypYkZewr2mBtsIRnnTbt0aAz2KdZwBH7flI_45jU05aBFJJ24Rjqzu5pPFDY7jMeoulzFS3kDRyf0tLuTs8-N0KTJ20/s320/20230822_175137.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6jBzxgYyXBVmIIN8fvHO-uYea10eT34NlfMzQSLWxDjK7DF0PYeBZqfT3XGWzO8bnb1CewQx4dTeNA4O-l9XTar-3agLsv9uXoPsZzI2iivkk2qgHIqp8nrp6_5CkgI8i9xH0IlvXmcAIAozr24a6GtvRtDG7hysSjdpMeFDlNMG2Cne7FcXSIolj3YI/s1209/20230822_175507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6jBzxgYyXBVmIIN8fvHO-uYea10eT34NlfMzQSLWxDjK7DF0PYeBZqfT3XGWzO8bnb1CewQx4dTeNA4O-l9XTar-3agLsv9uXoPsZzI2iivkk2qgHIqp8nrp6_5CkgI8i9xH0IlvXmcAIAozr24a6GtvRtDG7hysSjdpMeFDlNMG2Cne7FcXSIolj3YI/s320/20230822_175507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjemDDBTT94XCEO1JKXgX3OyKft1ww0D-ZVxA-MIajOh9wszIB2zlETRb-2sWVkXVh920t6evr-NMXPFKp7S1gSujYNgqsgHvNIjtzHouKFb-vcqOtFC_iuERR7A9nSKSnQt08VSLWTC1I9f2blkAxpQV-fDxz-Rt8AUrSZJOCJ_6UwsmdUk-6Jb4q0jSc/s1209/20230822_175510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjemDDBTT94XCEO1JKXgX3OyKft1ww0D-ZVxA-MIajOh9wszIB2zlETRb-2sWVkXVh920t6evr-NMXPFKp7S1gSujYNgqsgHvNIjtzHouKFb-vcqOtFC_iuERR7A9nSKSnQt08VSLWTC1I9f2blkAxpQV-fDxz-Rt8AUrSZJOCJ_6UwsmdUk-6Jb4q0jSc/s320/20230822_175510.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiOLECGPh6nzzHezBRszaDPHzUVn-fJ3q1-_IoEVXXxDcjLsz-_MHjg6QEjyJc8lfyjDFYlaES942TfXXwE6AIseIpW5PGdD_zeel_SaZSPviqo8BUlCv9cHm6oZao63K2Ie_QIjX2xZP6yVezRWwkA2J3w5EoRZlkv_rLEjcx2DQc-LODE8mfVOdUZn0/s1209/20230822_175609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiOLECGPh6nzzHezBRszaDPHzUVn-fJ3q1-_IoEVXXxDcjLsz-_MHjg6QEjyJc8lfyjDFYlaES942TfXXwE6AIseIpW5PGdD_zeel_SaZSPviqo8BUlCv9cHm6oZao63K2Ie_QIjX2xZP6yVezRWwkA2J3w5EoRZlkv_rLEjcx2DQc-LODE8mfVOdUZn0/s320/20230822_175609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6T8jTz-Kz0gVhmTsnKMzTX9DNgh7B9jVDe12vZs-RNlDsjFbUpbSua6q6miCzhhD2tljqnB7PIoMxyJeXf10a09-kdnm0XAPTURufelYOWObJ12hSxOT9fdcSz0hXG2vpk72RuM83EmcAKIgCLRzoC9_hySBKxjDiLsVxVz0xZbPq06_nHpi2TYiyY2E/s1209/20230822_180700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6T8jTz-Kz0gVhmTsnKMzTX9DNgh7B9jVDe12vZs-RNlDsjFbUpbSua6q6miCzhhD2tljqnB7PIoMxyJeXf10a09-kdnm0XAPTURufelYOWObJ12hSxOT9fdcSz0hXG2vpk72RuM83EmcAKIgCLRzoC9_hySBKxjDiLsVxVz0xZbPq06_nHpi2TYiyY2E/s320/20230822_180700.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIekz6lHnBkwQl9KMsPMq787_PxgEjc5PddNDi1jT0WXVZ8elTWxgmViiA9YlqVZvwgoa3ebg4g7HW0W9bGycU_QiMOF_WisQFTYHFWMRkYLiTFgDdcaWx09FaVLx-cfN_SBQ39zRpvTOvOmS6L0OSz8QB4_NR1KUFvR-Q_E4p7l43tKWUmVGx0ddLdg/s1209/20230822_181630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIekz6lHnBkwQl9KMsPMq787_PxgEjc5PddNDi1jT0WXVZ8elTWxgmViiA9YlqVZvwgoa3ebg4g7HW0W9bGycU_QiMOF_WisQFTYHFWMRkYLiTFgDdcaWx09FaVLx-cfN_SBQ39zRpvTOvOmS6L0OSz8QB4_NR1KUFvR-Q_E4p7l43tKWUmVGx0ddLdg/s320/20230822_181630.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Quasi al buio rientro in ostello, circondata dalle sagome scure dei cactus che si stagliano contro il cielo al crepuscolo. Pare un quadro, una cartolina. E' tutto troppo bello! Un roadrunner (quegli uccelli velocissimi, Beep Beep di Willy Coyote per intenderci) mi attraversa la strada a pochi metri dai piedi. Sto sognando.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JgiUJMLAtdIMewhz1nvqxgqkcFFazCCgHEAXZCUN1Oh5a61Uho9FD1uhmN1EDHveUBexhIy_wi65O0VmrwqNNQGsJJn56LvnCAtUx6tFxFLNXQPJ0_vOuS5gdokspaC0Xm3SjLB1JrM2akDP6EAE40NnxHIOahOB2e1ZI_S5hXjTI9YEEG8ttj_QDBM/s979/20230822_183330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4JgiUJMLAtdIMewhz1nvqxgqkcFFazCCgHEAXZCUN1Oh5a61Uho9FD1uhmN1EDHveUBexhIy_wi65O0VmrwqNNQGsJJn56LvnCAtUx6tFxFLNXQPJ0_vOuS5gdokspaC0Xm3SjLB1JrM2akDP6EAE40NnxHIOahOB2e1ZI_S5hXjTI9YEEG8ttj_QDBM/s320/20230822_183330.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Ju1A-bXqAJ8NQql1PcfYdvG40YuG1azEJvICoyLCc7NxdVHWy7bmxZW7wpx7b3FvvW2jesGPfD4vVK73t00zGAI4-H_KFBSgdOG4JnOXP0hhnyoy3s-TMpOGAWIQc-9O7xQr6btroUaImjYZe5lrf4lwAkH_TxyDfOh8AScPxuRtX9ROljASUTaQRc8/s1209/20230822_183346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Ju1A-bXqAJ8NQql1PcfYdvG40YuG1azEJvICoyLCc7NxdVHWy7bmxZW7wpx7b3FvvW2jesGPfD4vVK73t00zGAI4-H_KFBSgdOG4JnOXP0hhnyoy3s-TMpOGAWIQc-9O7xQr6btroUaImjYZe5lrf4lwAkH_TxyDfOh8AScPxuRtX9ROljASUTaQRc8/s320/20230822_183346.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAyNwEojB4mmeBclvLKOhTyIIoMWH8rGNCqe-latuAh5b7XlU9kwBP_BHf2f7bu4oeyzjCabhemD-zYPHUnfOpW0R_g4W95qtmBsXyaa2hSc7ZZZQmWVDgtICqtZ6VOb9jGxN6BMJZ5PzA29XyRiwApKl1UBX1WC0-vuU4_s0P7fzz1eA7LdNUTmCrag/s1209/20230822_183410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXAyNwEojB4mmeBclvLKOhTyIIoMWH8rGNCqe-latuAh5b7XlU9kwBP_BHf2f7bu4oeyzjCabhemD-zYPHUnfOpW0R_g4W95qtmBsXyaa2hSc7ZZZQmWVDgtICqtZ6VOb9jGxN6BMJZ5PzA29XyRiwApKl1UBX1WC0-vuU4_s0P7fzz1eA7LdNUTmCrag/s320/20230822_183410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La cagnolona dei proprietari decide di volersi far adottare e viene in camera da noi e ci gironzola intorno per tutta la sera, tra coccole e legni tirati e riportati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqYJKKnfvjCJGt6BW1I8NocowrDo5kYtQjR43noo3qhS4M1X1QtrQTJCDo6AtcbXe1KYRYnHXoDwOUpI3Q8k97nqLjiyhOiGZqHbJ5QIJpXg9N-SNOQdW9AQ_LHn4TM1KcrJxlYxeLE6U5_2V0Wp9T8cPFx3dusetm8HIulB-NPaBznsSEafD7j31fw4/s1209/20230822_185518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqYJKKnfvjCJGt6BW1I8NocowrDo5kYtQjR43noo3qhS4M1X1QtrQTJCDo6AtcbXe1KYRYnHXoDwOUpI3Q8k97nqLjiyhOiGZqHbJ5QIJpXg9N-SNOQdW9AQ_LHn4TM1KcrJxlYxeLE6U5_2V0Wp9T8cPFx3dusetm8HIulB-NPaBznsSEafD7j31fw4/s320/20230822_185518.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJd9gT5j47miEP87uz7EgHZhd6T7QJgJOssiMU4lxmPC7fGeBaOcQms23i4IX68Capncv1YHl7e_kMd85twNns4vRZTcTHRwARkkPFKhhLdIZPnI-rJ4kQNQwuRcfIeQSiBFxadQrSpJmP9-ia4G3YJ9HAWPjBwUKmT6pTV7QM1hvXPunSBzt9SeaVWw/s1209/20230822_185617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJd9gT5j47miEP87uz7EgHZhd6T7QJgJOssiMU4lxmPC7fGeBaOcQms23i4IX68Capncv1YHl7e_kMd85twNns4vRZTcTHRwARkkPFKhhLdIZPnI-rJ4kQNQwuRcfIeQSiBFxadQrSpJmP9-ia4G3YJ9HAWPjBwUKmT6pTV7QM1hvXPunSBzt9SeaVWw/s320/20230822_185617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Si va quindi a far spesa (l'ostello ha anche una bella cucina all'aperto) e ceniamo nell'aria finalmente quasi fresca. Domani ci attende un'altra tappa con dislivelli importanti, che ci porterà a sud, a Los Barriles, altra località nota a livello internazionale per il mare fantastico e gli sport acquatici. Essendo bassa stagione (quella alta è tra Natale e Capodanno) non dovremmo incrociare grandi folle di turisti, cosa che rende tutto ancora più magico.</div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-9213379433738454082023-08-19T08:09:00.004+02:002023-08-19T08:09:59.493+02:0056-58. Si torna sulla costa! Nayarit e Sinaloa tra giungla e distese di mango, discriminazioni e uragani<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi5nlKRMCcb8XIDgw7JlrZic5fD0KeKkvuA-jheztVfHbXD742CcdBo0WVvTV5vEQ5VoG4dfUcyr6wHPwCU69SrrUdTEa0iHgOg374awk8ucGaZEAO30NLZv4blZR0UDW8ZndHWT0m5WUdNNb79P6TUKgz29cfVLE8dvX5OvEdWs3-dhf9Plv3WKumqJw/s1209/20230817_134527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi5nlKRMCcb8XIDgw7JlrZic5fD0KeKkvuA-jheztVfHbXD742CcdBo0WVvTV5vEQ5VoG4dfUcyr6wHPwCU69SrrUdTEa0iHgOg374awk8ucGaZEAO30NLZv4blZR0UDW8ZndHWT0m5WUdNNb79P6TUKgz29cfVLE8dvX5OvEdWs3-dhf9Plv3WKumqJw/w640-h480/20230817_134527.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhClk1S53-TVdPfumZCxK_bST92JNQVF-X6EByYFdm95HrjhnN_MI4VLtpIEPc-B15248prLKFl9JSrcfKId1DnKYsB2xzy0iTLfZWKcxIqtnrYPuGGlyeINfv_qD0zXn-i2viLD31RRJOIpDyUi6cFYqS7ZN1U0qkMsk846BCXgvZkRo5JJNnZKj9U05I/s1209/20230817_092127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZ09A8IclOPEDnEL7oiRCDAC5zVbumhCUnPeAS_NXntWF7tGUHFg4jycpkqQ0UrTok-6NODF1q9VrbO3bLWZmbgJwFKnN7eALObuPvOqOGmhlk9XOKN2MAA_8ZP5Omyn42Sv-dcCalAzIKWCpN0DAUk9q11emwK1eq6u6nIKd7vHs0nYidKgsNVzvUmE/w480-h640/20230816_164507.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>16/8<div>Santa Isabel-Tepic</div><div>56km</div><div><br /></div><div>Eureka! Sono riuscita a raffinare le tappe così bene da apportare un taglione di quasi 50km, una mezza tappa, senza nulla togliere al percorso, alle città da esplorare e alle regioni da vedere. Semplicemente percorrendo altre strade, meno tortuose e "devianti". Inizialmente avevo pensato di aggirare Tepic e allungare tra le ultime colline per evitare un paio di punti in cui la strada "libre" che giunge a Mazatlan, la 15, converge nella sua parallela "cuota", la 15D, che è una autostrada a pagamento, con caselli e barriere. Le due strade corrono separate ma qui, per brevi tratti, si uniscono, immagino per questioni di spazio, che manca: tra costa paludosa e sierra si fa quel che si può. Ora noi, per evitare questi tratti avevamo previsto delle ampie perifrasi MA mi è sorto un dubbio, in questi giorni: perchè i cartelli della 15 libre, su cui stiamo pedalando, già indicano Mazatlan, con tanto di kilometraggio mancante? Se la strada "finisse" per immettersi in un'altra, diversa per nome e natura, queste indicazioni non avrebbero senso. Allora ho iniziato a cercare informazioni e, soprattutto, resoconti di cicloviaggiatori generosi che han condiviso la loro esperienza. Ho pensato che qui, sulle strade costiere, defluiscono tutti i gringos che scendono dalla Bassa California in direzione opposta alla nostra; e infatti ho trovato numerosi blog di biketravellers a stars and stripes che raccontano la loro avventura proprio in queste zone. E, nemmeno a dirlo, i più specificano di aver percorso interamente l'autostrada da Mazatlan a Tepic, per giorni, e insistono su come in teoria sia vietata ma, in pratica, polizia e vigilanza non abbia nulla da dire e ai caselli ci sia un passaggio pedonale. Anzi, molti affermano che l'autopista sia più sicura per i ciclisti perchè ha un bordo fuori corsia più ampio. Bingo, insomma! Noi non staremo sulla "cuota", che taglia fuori i paesi e risulta noiosa, ma almeno sappiamo che, là dove la libre si interseca, non avremo problemi con la stradale. Ergo, possiamo evitare inutili deviazioni e peripli, possiamo evitare di finire a passar la notte in campeggi di dubbia esistenza in mezzo al nulla e, con il tempo risparmiato, riusciamo a ritagliare una tappa brevis e visitare Tepic, la capitale del Nayarit.</div><div><br /></div><div>E' con questo carico di ottimismo che partiamo stamattina, con calma, sapendo di dover pedalare meno di 60km e di non dover penare per trovare un alloggio. Ne ho individuati un paio in centro, ma ce ne sono a decine in città.</div><div>Lasciamo il nostro hotel-farmacia-minisuper sotto lo sguardo incuriosito e vagamente divertito della padrona, che, sulla sedia in veranda, in compagnia dei nipoti, non ci toglie gli occhi di dosso. Ci chiede cosa facciamo quando piove, forse perchè ha letto che sta montando un uragano tropicale che potrebbe abbattersi sulla costa del Pacifico proprio dove ci stiamo dirigendo noi? O forse è una suggestione. "La prendiamo e ci laviamo un po'!". Sorride. Già ieri ci ha presi in giro dicendo che è delusa: pensava stessimo viaggiando dal polo sud al polo nord, invece solo da Cancun a La Paz... Simpaticona, lei!</div><div><br /></div><div>Ci mettiamo in sella e fa veramente caldo. Un caldo umido di quelli che, per l'altura, avevamo dimenticato. I primi 20km sono di salita. Dobbiamo superare quello che credo sia l'ultimo lembo di Sierra Madre, con 600m di dislivello tra vulcani spenti dalla cima piatta e colline rotondissime. Torniamo quasi a 1400m di quota, in un paesaggio spettacolare che richiama un passato antichissimo, ere ed ere geologiche addietro, quando le libellule eran grandi come tacchini e la terra ribolliva di magma, e le prime felci srotolavano i loro riccioli come dita al sole. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSnq97GB__ua0EtFL5jdnDMJaGJu5ZM8xW_RAnvTdY0BCe4fQT56igePNv0RCuuEICsCHZtvUPJNEMhY9MqF6bRMIhFczDUrPlSs7MDFBhFxBIO0yaulG579CsecvqI5fDHfajsgtx09WJzgFCe8S6zFr3ME0ug_Fnda9OLJ9HdQuRuQj46B82IEVxg84/s1209/20230816_091025.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSnq97GB__ua0EtFL5jdnDMJaGJu5ZM8xW_RAnvTdY0BCe4fQT56igePNv0RCuuEICsCHZtvUPJNEMhY9MqF6bRMIhFczDUrPlSs7MDFBhFxBIO0yaulG579CsecvqI5fDHfajsgtx09WJzgFCe8S6zFr3ME0ug_Fnda9OLJ9HdQuRuQj46B82IEVxg84/s320/20230816_091025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7XveXyxfwenLtxSlD9u2jC8r8ulT9YklxsfsxuSrNU4DqMjwHzQBteLF1yHKkLXOOPov9DRMqIFD1E7m1y0hC1E_fYtyRhzbQYEMCxw8D9lNEbhgpHLAEBo91HE5heBcIL5bYR2-aywFo8OJDk9wwRoV9cXkdsHMpfO1faU_q64soQYW7MBQ86NKMqk/s1209/20230816_091031.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7XveXyxfwenLtxSlD9u2jC8r8ulT9YklxsfsxuSrNU4DqMjwHzQBteLF1yHKkLXOOPov9DRMqIFD1E7m1y0hC1E_fYtyRhzbQYEMCxw8D9lNEbhgpHLAEBo91HE5heBcIL5bYR2-aywFo8OJDk9wwRoV9cXkdsHMpfO1faU_q64soQYW7MBQ86NKMqk/s320/20230816_091031.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNnsWcQMaqDHvzuun6aNpBcnv1aYAxiqVJ8zZbOeCLUiLG35ql0odVGrnot_GLtbQStvkKjlTLvg_h8KyQBlaXIPblnstrOLV7xhEHHOIOmvl_8jHJ4EBZI56Kcgbw0_ZYMLizMVVZuq06Un7ZbbhLDLNDoxWufPQtEbb45H3WooMIm0vExQ7i9Fj42cM/s1209/20230816_091036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNnsWcQMaqDHvzuun6aNpBcnv1aYAxiqVJ8zZbOeCLUiLG35ql0odVGrnot_GLtbQStvkKjlTLvg_h8KyQBlaXIPblnstrOLV7xhEHHOIOmvl_8jHJ4EBZI56Kcgbw0_ZYMLizMVVZuq06Un7ZbbhLDLNDoxWufPQtEbb45H3WooMIm0vExQ7i9Fj42cM/s320/20230816_091036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxXzlURhVv5WycSpQMuvABM8hdz4zw2PE2nNnuY9TQRB7aeZQZT6Y56SDNhrT5UJUCaHCyNo_2omVWt_3nQIkKQEA1bqUWJ0Qc1zkCw9ocajdGN_u7Rxkkeg2UIZjoyAcA9gSpqEWnF-u4Rjg99-BRlBkyAKSn2Vi2ip4HOo42rtQh3g-Ch7Tz-pbsX4/s1209/20230816_093247.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxXzlURhVv5WycSpQMuvABM8hdz4zw2PE2nNnuY9TQRB7aeZQZT6Y56SDNhrT5UJUCaHCyNo_2omVWt_3nQIkKQEA1bqUWJ0Qc1zkCw9ocajdGN_u7Rxkkeg2UIZjoyAcA9gSpqEWnF-u4Rjg99-BRlBkyAKSn2Vi2ip4HOo42rtQh3g-Ch7Tz-pbsX4/s320/20230816_093247.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNkJYWz8JN2T_So96lh6KAHPAVJ6WAUNQrGgSRbDjB66C7BSTwntFms7UsiuAx-cmtjOJDQm8XhAbrXeFjhGmSHTgCnHtKhMa3wr4Q1RXWVchIH42bLGrOK1gOB0KTh4cECUYFAhznZNQJJ9gA7mJNwdjzEMXHXw9H73mTrx3tng1gU7BEf2G_uKI1_vM/s1209/20230816_093856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNkJYWz8JN2T_So96lh6KAHPAVJ6WAUNQrGgSRbDjB66C7BSTwntFms7UsiuAx-cmtjOJDQm8XhAbrXeFjhGmSHTgCnHtKhMa3wr4Q1RXWVchIH42bLGrOK1gOB0KTh4cECUYFAhznZNQJJ9gA7mJNwdjzEMXHXw9H73mTrx3tng1gU7BEf2G_uKI1_vM/s320/20230816_093856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioyTeNp1_clHtW-UhkoQB99Ykd2_bpTii7zA1DwIxu7AoLR8MCA1fZwZovIhVp42Fcn5kP9Ap780VWlXmjvK8N4o7ZUT21h-KxEkLa-4yjt4JxXqWXp18W4gEbN0RB9C7oAKW0mpZ-C10CcQ-b826RYl5chn_tYtWQoznWKTJe-XnCw5C2fdiMPEOwjQs/s1209/20230816_093908.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioyTeNp1_clHtW-UhkoQB99Ykd2_bpTii7zA1DwIxu7AoLR8MCA1fZwZovIhVp42Fcn5kP9Ap780VWlXmjvK8N4o7ZUT21h-KxEkLa-4yjt4JxXqWXp18W4gEbN0RB9C7oAKW0mpZ-C10CcQ-b826RYl5chn_tYtWQoznWKTJe-XnCw5C2fdiMPEOwjQs/s320/20230816_093908.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jMqZi7jcBlXZziHqPSY4UWps8MqCeClQgYQQIpBKogE6kur4Zm3LPaS2ZeEtm0h7E53nrwbmy1tJDsmlBMBMKt7y3dlkNih22iWhNYxhZH1Kf7s3cKzL0Pw6HpPjHiS6ouKuvcjdMprCqZUaC9RKostKmDgPmA-rfl6VpasESeneiVXtyP6W0YQQBsY/s1209/20230816_095146.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jMqZi7jcBlXZziHqPSY4UWps8MqCeClQgYQQIpBKogE6kur4Zm3LPaS2ZeEtm0h7E53nrwbmy1tJDsmlBMBMKt7y3dlkNih22iWhNYxhZH1Kf7s3cKzL0Pw6HpPjHiS6ouKuvcjdMprCqZUaC9RKostKmDgPmA-rfl6VpasESeneiVXtyP6W0YQQBsY/s320/20230816_095146.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>L'idillio preistorico è interrotto solo, a tratti, dal passaggio di camion rumorosissimi, vecchi, arrugginiti e puzzolenti, che esalano fumi neri come i treni a carbone che Napoleone, in Egitto, alimentava a mummie. Purtroppo la strada è stretta e spesso questi mostri sferraglianti e moribondi devono mettersi in coda dietro di noi e attendere per sorpassarci, cosa che sottolinea la gentilezza dei guidatori ma che ci mette un'ansia terribile e ci porta a cercare, invano, di accelerare il passo. Ma la pendenza ci riporta alla realtà, e accettiamo di salire pianissimo, inseguiti a giro stretto dai bestioni sferraglianti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHMCX5QZY_ds0G7lo2qpEvCV2CqqSc1wxxaGXuxIgwaWGeZNdNT3FGRaTeOuLq4LtIVM8uUVulnDVw-kmsNMfB6DNH0yRSshJEz-uaRyRAUO8H1PrMX2RAoT0JMkFgdsMRA-zO4Wusv-glEY6PpGI3Mg7Wbm_E9A9_oJw3D1GdeXP1JH7DOM3qCiLAPU/s1209/20230816_095329.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHMCX5QZY_ds0G7lo2qpEvCV2CqqSc1wxxaGXuxIgwaWGeZNdNT3FGRaTeOuLq4LtIVM8uUVulnDVw-kmsNMfB6DNH0yRSshJEz-uaRyRAUO8H1PrMX2RAoT0JMkFgdsMRA-zO4Wusv-glEY6PpGI3Mg7Wbm_E9A9_oJw3D1GdeXP1JH7DOM3qCiLAPU/s320/20230816_095329.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8afPrH3LHoNrQXpyl7Mgig9K0dip9sPYLi4xvJYdlF2FfANrH6iNC_KchaPWoq98RzPbI4ei37x8ByTo6jpF4JV_CAq6KpvF5UlEFtPnZKbW1vHtCgixUVtqGQ9LPtHiqKVY22hH3SVix4oazlpOnwAnMthfopfJPPnDWgtXVKN0AiGxpwzGWDgh8_k/s1209/20230816_100208.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8afPrH3LHoNrQXpyl7Mgig9K0dip9sPYLi4xvJYdlF2FfANrH6iNC_KchaPWoq98RzPbI4ei37x8ByTo6jpF4JV_CAq6KpvF5UlEFtPnZKbW1vHtCgixUVtqGQ9LPtHiqKVY22hH3SVix4oazlpOnwAnMthfopfJPPnDWgtXVKN0AiGxpwzGWDgh8_k/s320/20230816_100208.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7KrbTWVotb44PzMztE6iqjUi42rVU-j5qPo1ZIms2Zk8RgStWPkNF6uesJLlozFzYjUSik3oiFRBGqF1toor_opRjXUAtSAAxn1LHEQkI5_5ZTapu2occR8ikvpeghpu4BKIFf8oSoUmJ23bywi_J64FH6iCY1uquNYON0IlRkTC3IqsEy2KLjIujAJs/s1209/20230816_110638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7KrbTWVotb44PzMztE6iqjUi42rVU-j5qPo1ZIms2Zk8RgStWPkNF6uesJLlozFzYjUSik3oiFRBGqF1toor_opRjXUAtSAAxn1LHEQkI5_5ZTapu2occR8ikvpeghpu4BKIFf8oSoUmJ23bywi_J64FH6iCY1uquNYON0IlRkTC3IqsEy2KLjIujAJs/s320/20230816_110638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd7casTqDTg8HaI4Lo5cktMKoiM_qeKB9tYmcHyl2I5ZgAllLgOqeqHhPujM54xURQWeL5k9aq5MqGZrn5_WoSNwimZzeUgR0TrqXwFjkN2kK-UfdhemdGrJpX7eennyLGh9U0ZPB7jfyOfbMxF145msD9dkcYsMYlfWWYagj6zKL532Vg_P8SL3vEyww/s1209/20230816_111145.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd7casTqDTg8HaI4Lo5cktMKoiM_qeKB9tYmcHyl2I5ZgAllLgOqeqHhPujM54xURQWeL5k9aq5MqGZrn5_WoSNwimZzeUgR0TrqXwFjkN2kK-UfdhemdGrJpX7eennyLGh9U0ZPB7jfyOfbMxF145msD9dkcYsMYlfWWYagj6zKL532Vg_P8SL3vEyww/s320/20230816_111145.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Come sempre, grazie alle leggi del karma e della fisica, ad ogni salita corrisponde discesa. E non manca, dopo il passo, in un brivido di verdi e azzurri, nel profumo di resina che esala dai rari pini che esalano linfa al sole. In un batter di ciglia torniamo al piano, che significa a 900m di quota, come il punto da cui siam partiti. A livello del mare torneremo domani, per rimanerci fino alla fine del viaggio. Queste, dunque, erano le ultime salite? Sembra strano affermarlo così, Dopo settimane e settimane a fare i conti con pendenze e altura, siamo tornati alle terre basse, come nei primi giorni, all'inizio dell'avventura, nella penisola yucateca. Dopo 27.000m di dislivello positivo! Cosa sono, poi, rispetto ai 38.000 dello scorso anno, in Perù?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-05ou9ZMnZHU7GGYEdMhtxYkclUQJo-v202nYyCp2TMU2Wi2CRaVNneHqPPZw-6yD4RNsMY41cbJa5Ui3wMQuopLV-vqUlXcY9jxQ1fgYvgFcTBCKLs0svX2D0G4vlE1Pir1jhY3JFPKcuxdsKoC9CpKcUydRFvilMsllUfsuhEW08uPxhGgnPeQ9TE/s1209/20230816_111240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-05ou9ZMnZHU7GGYEdMhtxYkclUQJo-v202nYyCp2TMU2Wi2CRaVNneHqPPZw-6yD4RNsMY41cbJa5Ui3wMQuopLV-vqUlXcY9jxQ1fgYvgFcTBCKLs0svX2D0G4vlE1Pir1jhY3JFPKcuxdsKoC9CpKcUydRFvilMsllUfsuhEW08uPxhGgnPeQ9TE/s320/20230816_111240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeeTHHvzZkreVPSMm2m2m4XIVJCMd6R-f_PsXeRy0hs832DELt3vaIxe1BYdk0bZnei71eVr6TyMX2XwZya4yijKjOTeiaDNNF9xS1-DRvXRJi_WT74bRSttDZFzGkA3_AKu9WI6nhIxkL8cMzqCzRasPNk9FVDJ4EgjGcsihic5u9wqiCnfBNIrYMZYU/s1209/20230816_112053.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeeTHHvzZkreVPSMm2m2m4XIVJCMd6R-f_PsXeRy0hs832DELt3vaIxe1BYdk0bZnei71eVr6TyMX2XwZya4yijKjOTeiaDNNF9xS1-DRvXRJi_WT74bRSttDZFzGkA3_AKu9WI6nhIxkL8cMzqCzRasPNk9FVDJ4EgjGcsihic5u9wqiCnfBNIrYMZYU/s320/20230816_112053.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbNJk8d3qC0hf_s0xkWka6xNLYmhXMeV0fSGuecbgvKWvvvha9AlJOKtzDpbuNe8-OB1xl5JseoDanl10E9ETxrO47quqcEm_NSy1yxymZInPCBuHl7n1fqzgG5Yq-FU_TNILPhhdroZqaumlUMa41xvRN8S_NgX6oBoQ0QCbdGvk5d8-59BwSGJxZTQ/s1209/20230816_112200.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbNJk8d3qC0hf_s0xkWka6xNLYmhXMeV0fSGuecbgvKWvvvha9AlJOKtzDpbuNe8-OB1xl5JseoDanl10E9ETxrO47quqcEm_NSy1yxymZInPCBuHl7n1fqzgG5Yq-FU_TNILPhhdroZqaumlUMa41xvRN8S_NgX6oBoQ0QCbdGvk5d8-59BwSGJxZTQ/s320/20230816_112200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una volta superate le alture si apre la valle di Tepic, punteggiata di rari paesini e distese di mais spettinate dal vento. Il sole azzanna la pelle, e l'acqua nelle borracce è finita. Facciamo una breve sosta e ne approfittiamo per contattare l'hotel dove vorremmo alloggiare.</div><div>Ripartiamo e ben presto si apre intorno a noi la periferia di Tepic, che non è particolarmente degradata o squallida, anzi. Ho letto sulla guida che qui vive per lo più la classe media, e i grandi vialoni con le palme e i palazzi lo dimostrano, per quanto non manchi qualche zona più popolare.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGWuUevVDh2aTGWmNXwJBrq_7dpUs7uSPzERXaud7gW_35WOkAOkvPsKRIvRm-6irDajvLwAADG6QInUycuOauO02fObLyFdlbmeV2Gccl17O-NXk120u0nsKMIACMhpgzNZkChMsBXoiHXFl0emP8RkP9jnJMEmvWHOONch0i-azVdiQYlsZUuYYe_-A/s1209/20230816_125442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGWuUevVDh2aTGWmNXwJBrq_7dpUs7uSPzERXaud7gW_35WOkAOkvPsKRIvRm-6irDajvLwAADG6QInUycuOauO02fObLyFdlbmeV2Gccl17O-NXk120u0nsKMIACMhpgzNZkChMsBXoiHXFl0emP8RkP9jnJMEmvWHOONch0i-azVdiQYlsZUuYYe_-A/s320/20230816_125442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNTlt4FlluiCkyqh90DUShlgay1f6NfwhBkegGc7WCXpQqUC7V4WLwiAqibNZyePoty56bOljlphckjfp6Vi6F3bbquAbNBT69w81ChjSvUE0UBTdofCL9FfYPQRQgxl-KFXBgwkHOdqIdygZvwA_Lb91oDRQ7iSvGWwJr1L5BCcNQzP-P6AUFWzrM_A/s1209/20230816_125822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNTlt4FlluiCkyqh90DUShlgay1f6NfwhBkegGc7WCXpQqUC7V4WLwiAqibNZyePoty56bOljlphckjfp6Vi6F3bbquAbNBT69w81ChjSvUE0UBTdofCL9FfYPQRQgxl-KFXBgwkHOdqIdygZvwA_Lb91oDRQ7iSvGWwJr1L5BCcNQzP-P6AUFWzrM_A/s320/20230816_125822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-SpTnWL81Ted-bCgOmmygphbWMldJg8qa0imCQ2eRUP04U9JwoifCzWPrIV3pzP9RuJPrauT0S_UowxoLRtzl-_U9qlauC3YGZK1y_WnEXzS6p1DN7jx7Aa8i4eATrhCqa13QpFbb5rZMZqpq3BPDnRydEqHA2bU_gitPslQ9JqeLHRPuLG1eWh88QE/s1209/20230816_125838.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-SpTnWL81Ted-bCgOmmygphbWMldJg8qa0imCQ2eRUP04U9JwoifCzWPrIV3pzP9RuJPrauT0S_UowxoLRtzl-_U9qlauC3YGZK1y_WnEXzS6p1DN7jx7Aa8i4eATrhCqa13QpFbb5rZMZqpq3BPDnRydEqHA2bU_gitPslQ9JqeLHRPuLG1eWh88QE/s320/20230816_125838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_LNZcgHm7WoWYUA7YTdH4nj47sy_YXCjOhcydH5UODIQHqdWE56QfKj9KCjaCkQhlYsd6yuP-6paGc1V63Tb7ufn7p76CU9RSusNr7qiLs6BIO28ePie5KkTaOZ5S6EiPkebxk_3lusLjFoZxmq0t4nIE78DB2JHB_h807ufqwcL1EMjeEjjjLTLqFo/s1209/20230816_130030.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_LNZcgHm7WoWYUA7YTdH4nj47sy_YXCjOhcydH5UODIQHqdWE56QfKj9KCjaCkQhlYsd6yuP-6paGc1V63Tb7ufn7p76CU9RSusNr7qiLs6BIO28ePie5KkTaOZ5S6EiPkebxk_3lusLjFoZxmq0t4nIE78DB2JHB_h807ufqwcL1EMjeEjjjLTLqFo/s320/20230816_130030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il centro è trafficato, ma non ai livelli delle altre grandi città finora attraversate, pur contando quasi 400.000 abitanti. Il luogo è abitato fin dal 600 a.C.: prima da popolazioni dedite ad agricoltura e pesca, poi da nativi di cinque etnie sottomessi al regno della vicina Xalisco. Il primo spagnolo a giungere qui fu il nipote di Hernan Cortés, Francisco, nel 1526, cui i nativi si avvicinarono pacificamente. La conquista vera e propria, però, fu attuata da Nuno de Guzman, l'arcinemico di Cortés, e i due si fecero le scarpe a vicenda per lungo tempo, nel tentativo di accaparrarsi il dominio su questa terra fertile. Inoltre il vicino porto di San Blas crebbe di importanza per le spedizioni costiere e anche d'alto mare, diventando crocevia per i commerci con le Filippine e l'Oriente già a metà Settecento. Durante la guerra di Indipendenza, Tepic si schierò con i realisti di Spagna, poi, nel corso dell'Ottocento, la costa occidentale messicana perse importanza economica e commerciale. Arrivò la rivoluzione, poi il progresso novecentesco. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-TdcZWze-ZMpDQE6_pIkbkYWq4xOE9fNWfiAcdZp7AvHiQdzomWPWxer1bikBhKhy0ZtrDbfeHRTlOyZxdFmLot-Q8ZSiaiyK4SnckA6gFAKDueyI7LbX07_WX6EdttN1O_raKDoa2NWIag_C6itw09-uXvsjnbP7ZOs3eKck_vqhZe0ptfDKO65baI/s1209/20230816_131526.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-TdcZWze-ZMpDQE6_pIkbkYWq4xOE9fNWfiAcdZp7AvHiQdzomWPWxer1bikBhKhy0ZtrDbfeHRTlOyZxdFmLot-Q8ZSiaiyK4SnckA6gFAKDueyI7LbX07_WX6EdttN1O_raKDoa2NWIag_C6itw09-uXvsjnbP7ZOs3eKck_vqhZe0ptfDKO65baI/s320/20230816_131526.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisaGRgc3T-dOrf1lori4CzwvjkLEZ1ddrlh-_gIC4_nNq4fuds5ei-LsEsLjEOu2umD8RuJyFERW0jnou7Zq51sLqEnX1eOWijtN5T5_GvspCs_IIVzv7Wh84lLIra8KoRPoKy5EbOCDiEQGKlef6ptlL3SOQXy8N5hvRlxJvzy7ocb3h8LTWW__tX6v4/s1209/20230816_131711.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisaGRgc3T-dOrf1lori4CzwvjkLEZ1ddrlh-_gIC4_nNq4fuds5ei-LsEsLjEOu2umD8RuJyFERW0jnou7Zq51sLqEnX1eOWijtN5T5_GvspCs_IIVzv7Wh84lLIra8KoRPoKy5EbOCDiEQGKlef6ptlL3SOQXy8N5hvRlxJvzy7ocb3h8LTWW__tX6v4/s320/20230816_131711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8OUBVFLUN-j14lBoKrxohYKQ0dE6Hvi9YCYbylXeZY32ezHFUOaQ0IK5TGZEx-JOhH4hw7vr68nnk-LutA24vJf5Yk273NePh52tDp55e-2T3A4wWjEBzitikoL_-821DFVXTNvlBaj9Z7vQXkXr9WUO1WVvdApzJ2YuTFMQfkz-DSStCGA1_Q0cbJc/s1209/20230816_131720.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim8OUBVFLUN-j14lBoKrxohYKQ0dE6Hvi9YCYbylXeZY32ezHFUOaQ0IK5TGZEx-JOhH4hw7vr68nnk-LutA24vJf5Yk273NePh52tDp55e-2T3A4wWjEBzitikoL_-821DFVXTNvlBaj9Z7vQXkXr9WUO1WVvdApzJ2YuTFMQfkz-DSStCGA1_Q0cbJc/s320/20230816_131720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriviamo anche noi, all'hotel designato e contattato.</div><div>Che non è un hotel. E' una casa privata con camere in affitto all black. Dalla strada non traspare nulla: non una insegna, non un cartello, nemmeno piccolo sulla porta. Una normale casa, con la porta chiusa. Senza campanello. Iniziamo a chiamare al numero indicato sul sito e nessuno risponde. La signora della porta accanto, che ha un negozio di sartoria, si interessa alla nostra situazione e decide di aiutarci. Fa lei un paio di chiamate e, miracolosamente, compare una donna... Che però, dopo aver controllato, si dice desolata di non aver camere disponibili. Oh no! Ma può chiedere a suo cognato, che abita proprio accanto, a un paio di metri di distanza. In una casa che non è un albergo, ma, varcata la porta di ingresso, si presenta strutturata con camere numerate su due piani. Che furbacchioni! Legge e fisco, dall'esterno, vedono belle abitazioni private... Ma poi, al sicuro dalle tasse e dagli occhi indiscreti, dietro alla porta, si apre un mondo. Inutile a dirsi, queste sistemazioni sono più economiche degli hotel. Nell'attesa ci approccia un omone baffuto in moto, che si dice cicloviaggiatore a sua volta e ci racconta qualche suo viaggio; è un architetto e spiega di aver collaborato con tanti italiani, sulla costa, a Puerto Vallarta, per la costruzione di ristoranti, hotel e locali di lusso. E' anche orgoglioso di raccontare del lungo tour fatto da suo figlio in Italia e parte dell'Europa: "Costoso, ma ha visto Firenze, Venezia, Roma... Magari le avessi viste io!".</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7qNZidmM0tCzvsYoivkhJtn1RGxtNmPLoYX3I2jStUm5s2EO7gFV6n8kZGzqk4NWwV4M6JpHOVXqMZEeNY8bibKcZiVjTJdKXPqkKiDFkHfrXVRk4WUwen2QNLcfSGuYcVFkgXBZGHloEf44xiUWDuY1NANWufhnpxKIu3xUP4-OGLPm11sK6j7TRZU/s1209/20230816_133100.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7qNZidmM0tCzvsYoivkhJtn1RGxtNmPLoYX3I2jStUm5s2EO7gFV6n8kZGzqk4NWwV4M6JpHOVXqMZEeNY8bibKcZiVjTJdKXPqkKiDFkHfrXVRk4WUwen2QNLcfSGuYcVFkgXBZGHloEf44xiUWDuY1NANWufhnpxKIu3xUP4-OGLPm11sK6j7TRZU/s320/20230816_133100.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK2gO2uIX7YEqMrasDZ-0q52TW9fq1aFoKvwMnofBzJ-Yeq8UCn5LErfLtCxLAIoL3IR6WtzDb9m-xK_5eHfglhTlgDV5MwvHpUS_J_z1JzYJEEOd0p3FdZ-X4ZRIQi5OULMHeKXs8liklVa3tPIJADZZxitaJCbx18K3EJSNw8QVO_Jx_vOABz2GOhL8/s979/20230816_135148.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK2gO2uIX7YEqMrasDZ-0q52TW9fq1aFoKvwMnofBzJ-Yeq8UCn5LErfLtCxLAIoL3IR6WtzDb9m-xK_5eHfglhTlgDV5MwvHpUS_J_z1JzYJEEOd0p3FdZ-X4ZRIQi5OULMHeKXs8liklVa3tPIJADZZxitaJCbx18K3EJSNw8QVO_Jx_vOABz2GOhL8/s320/20230816_135148.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDTis6G_TkmfU6oN0Zhv8MdeCFfs5ae-mc7hFALViQwOLx61u_FzToxw0kI6xuMQ8IfxyUUqKX3e72sAhzBExZOyFPzAtmpK6PWiwXNqB2PlI148a5Fh8njbMQBEOGizf5Z5L1-nCklB2p6V-FZqZJs950AvG4IC8N7AJ_RGBYVnjWEY9E93J-MOhdCz4/s979/20230816_135159.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDTis6G_TkmfU6oN0Zhv8MdeCFfs5ae-mc7hFALViQwOLx61u_FzToxw0kI6xuMQ8IfxyUUqKX3e72sAhzBExZOyFPzAtmpK6PWiwXNqB2PlI148a5Fh8njbMQBEOGizf5Z5L1-nCklB2p6V-FZqZJs950AvG4IC8N7AJ_RGBYVnjWEY9E93J-MOhdCz4/s320/20230816_135159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver fatto quattro chiacchiere con Enrique, il proprietario gioviale, e aver coccolato i suoi gatti fusarilli e impastatori, usciamo ad esplorare la città. Non è che ci sia un numero esorbitante di attrazioni, eh. Il museo regionale raccoglie pezzi, sicuramente interessanti, trovati nei siti locali e appartenenti a diverse culture preispaniche, ma sta per chiudere. Accanto si trova il museo dei cinque popoli, cioè le etnie che ancora oggi vivono qui: Cora, Huichol, Tepehuana, Mexicanera e mestizos. Onestamente è più un mercato che un museo, ed espone oggetti che è più bello vedere in uso o indosso alla gente per strada. Poi c'è la piazza centrale, che, come sempre, è il cuore vivo della città. Qui si affaccia la cattedrale neogotica del 1804, purtroppo chiusa e in restauro.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTEnquGuA8ZLqybh1gLiXHgOqzi_wPIdar_w4zvP79_wBJWd-TiH3yWVc0o53HP1fiCfZdIeUiKW2bRzl57E-887dS--WUA1rq2jOr4TnMxKytIlz2fnnEPv9j7yblkNYGfo6LKzuVOxSKzudxqKR6ztjwuKjYm8vuzqJtexUHWAtpbcr8fN2Tg6-ENI/s1209/20230816_160654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTEnquGuA8ZLqybh1gLiXHgOqzi_wPIdar_w4zvP79_wBJWd-TiH3yWVc0o53HP1fiCfZdIeUiKW2bRzl57E-887dS--WUA1rq2jOr4TnMxKytIlz2fnnEPv9j7yblkNYGfo6LKzuVOxSKzudxqKR6ztjwuKjYm8vuzqJtexUHWAtpbcr8fN2Tg6-ENI/s320/20230816_160654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNnvz3ZJ7iggCZ2-v7fyZ6ZQtZp1wffxqjdMYBi3eCpBquiCXjIDUxhOF3-bxE8YqYaAhtd3KbrTJKwnvuuiMoh2Hb1VRz7-J2tWyxksKp08a9hLh8SFVAnZy1wj-P8OAIhM7REkuWt9uJjZXrq0JALgX_ymrsxCpmI5S9mSf5jHmx_1-LeM9iMMWxpM/s1209/20230816_161305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNnvz3ZJ7iggCZ2-v7fyZ6ZQtZp1wffxqjdMYBi3eCpBquiCXjIDUxhOF3-bxE8YqYaAhtd3KbrTJKwnvuuiMoh2Hb1VRz7-J2tWyxksKp08a9hLh8SFVAnZy1wj-P8OAIhM7REkuWt9uJjZXrq0JALgX_ymrsxCpmI5S9mSf5jHmx_1-LeM9iMMWxpM/s320/20230816_161305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5BM5qhpXQxC5JuCyss9_fGx9MhjtbxFpcIk50PCc9FOKsjGlHQYj6zjDoi_Odfdo8RcScCwQCKG4NnBzd9JI93-uSDwWUqpochpw4vPGLiuNgNDfF-Ep5T36w8HDKDkPs3_Pf61-r5Ryqq2-D-1VbJeGs_UEhiu1IaS_CYkp416ikIOEO-ofOmCjDVI/s1209/20230816_161550.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF5BM5qhpXQxC5JuCyss9_fGx9MhjtbxFpcIk50PCc9FOKsjGlHQYj6zjDoi_Odfdo8RcScCwQCKG4NnBzd9JI93-uSDwWUqpochpw4vPGLiuNgNDfF-Ep5T36w8HDKDkPs3_Pf61-r5Ryqq2-D-1VbJeGs_UEhiu1IaS_CYkp416ikIOEO-ofOmCjDVI/s320/20230816_161550.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uG_ltfJDw4YZMLMiegW5lXVD53g8iwdo0LPAWzNI9cbIsVc9ewK34dR97DjWcRg7-cJXf1KQ15HXvwoXbesKMvKNXjH2v1-34vZnobco4Jf3TyC5eV1kwjc4xGpw_AEAoEojcBwyNCUSbWagMhZD14qXiNBnHXdEH0Pz_UdjBKgXg5vWdOg6gwpEgkI/s1209/20230816_161843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uG_ltfJDw4YZMLMiegW5lXVD53g8iwdo0LPAWzNI9cbIsVc9ewK34dR97DjWcRg7-cJXf1KQ15HXvwoXbesKMvKNXjH2v1-34vZnobco4Jf3TyC5eV1kwjc4xGpw_AEAoEojcBwyNCUSbWagMhZD14qXiNBnHXdEH0Pz_UdjBKgXg5vWdOg6gwpEgkI/s320/20230816_161843.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT53MdmUY1TVII1dKSV6h-ji4oUmJFtfjQaG96UJ4CI7NN43dns7C_lZQwUw7MnxDpTbg54b7ZRmKUwpBTobA5OgJsdo7FeVgfq_YLbDBr5oF0O26E1pOSQ8y9H-mev-dVGJFsGmNQRQpRawYCx2MZu5PHhglCYrM1Rn7AYrkHDXNbBivVWSjOUclmbyo/s1209/20230816_162003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT53MdmUY1TVII1dKSV6h-ji4oUmJFtfjQaG96UJ4CI7NN43dns7C_lZQwUw7MnxDpTbg54b7ZRmKUwpBTobA5OgJsdo7FeVgfq_YLbDBr5oF0O26E1pOSQ8y9H-mev-dVGJFsGmNQRQpRawYCx2MZu5PHhglCYrM1Rn7AYrkHDXNbBivVWSjOUclmbyo/s320/20230816_162003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Portici, piazze, fontane e vie pedonali affollate di bancarelle si dipartono dalla plaza, che è anche il punto di partenza dei Turibus, pullman che, con una guida a bordo, portano a visitare i luoghi più importanti della città e il quartiere dove vivono gli Huichol, dove è possibile assaggiare la famosa tortilla blu, fatta con una varietà di mais di quel colore.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3P5esFPYKyaQH1vfdLuicps04Th3nnseDvyfaXmbIxwO7haLJhmgYkikGMhmlvOLtpDTwE09pUWsdceuDMRVUTkGjoZMTKfE4boE3N8eOekM1PVNK4YqshaVuLcp1cw6O4VhXX039H4GOFqSqQyS7lljKYg-Pz6PsV3a1UtykczT3_6qS6iHAeDnqHuE/s1209/20230816_162029.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3P5esFPYKyaQH1vfdLuicps04Th3nnseDvyfaXmbIxwO7haLJhmgYkikGMhmlvOLtpDTwE09pUWsdceuDMRVUTkGjoZMTKfE4boE3N8eOekM1PVNK4YqshaVuLcp1cw6O4VhXX039H4GOFqSqQyS7lljKYg-Pz6PsV3a1UtykczT3_6qS6iHAeDnqHuE/s320/20230816_162029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCyTvSa0tsWH0GfPXJNJa1Wg0BkTgkgtZLm-K8tawl0Y4pUshaIYbcH-lqy1woZJNa_Pp2JlxwWVL43l57RAdQKxD7UByQc7M6owWgO5UM7wf-h9zdb1PdhKBSgRlBZb2ufoGBS-adTXAQBWK_ILzv_Gtx6x77GGYdwa01K0IFi0gB7oisHRYEOEwXJ5w/s1209/20230816_162129.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCyTvSa0tsWH0GfPXJNJa1Wg0BkTgkgtZLm-K8tawl0Y4pUshaIYbcH-lqy1woZJNa_Pp2JlxwWVL43l57RAdQKxD7UByQc7M6owWgO5UM7wf-h9zdb1PdhKBSgRlBZb2ufoGBS-adTXAQBWK_ILzv_Gtx6x77GGYdwa01K0IFi0gB7oisHRYEOEwXJ5w/s320/20230816_162129.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdQMEKJMo0LDLELq68VRjb7Ww0ztOgIpWP9r_gCTsjaAM1NCzBqVHFiPYKDJxZQCBQawC85pXtJ2hY0OEptBOKbpv5vrkzNvKrDouiRZ6Y3jig5bw36eij_l7r9SRzSkvPTJ5N7P0TKy0fsMkQLZA6LKGp6Fz5ezQ-nQkwdy00mtL_j-AIZYJskqcGZs/s1209/20230816_162956.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdQMEKJMo0LDLELq68VRjb7Ww0ztOgIpWP9r_gCTsjaAM1NCzBqVHFiPYKDJxZQCBQawC85pXtJ2hY0OEptBOKbpv5vrkzNvKrDouiRZ6Y3jig5bw36eij_l7r9SRzSkvPTJ5N7P0TKy0fsMkQLZA6LKGp6Fz5ezQ-nQkwdy00mtL_j-AIZYJskqcGZs/s320/20230816_162956.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Come spesso accade da queste parti, la cosa migliore per godersi lo spirito della città è passeggiare per i mercati e le piazze, lasciandosi portare dalla folla. Siamo sufficientemente segnati a dito, soprattutto Gigi. Sentiamo spesso frasi come: "Mira el turista!", "Mira el gringo" e simili. La cosa mi fa ribollire il sangue. Se uno è razzista, il razzismo se lo merita. So bene che è questione di ignoranza, di storia subita sempre stando dalla parte del debole, di orizzonte culturale ristretto fatto di emarginazione e prevaricazione. Però se non si vogliono etichette non bisogna nemmeno appiopparne. Non saranno quegli abiti colorati a dare il diritto di discriminare o tracciare la linea tra il noi e il loro.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZFVz39SAoNS5lMGR58bXvMF42XCGOKVpWS4wbJYI6XUpolgjyUQ9QYoSYhF0dydciUZzzzf3WDWzAMfvk-Cdsq4oW_QYhIkQmrf7SnL0PxiDpWddf7KLhcXvBg5FtriPQmkM-UNCv0H71zPdVvm3YWJ6t8wRxIELslEPYBs5xOJ-0craKCb53zTW5fQ/s1209/20230816_163006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZFVz39SAoNS5lMGR58bXvMF42XCGOKVpWS4wbJYI6XUpolgjyUQ9QYoSYhF0dydciUZzzzf3WDWzAMfvk-Cdsq4oW_QYhIkQmrf7SnL0PxiDpWddf7KLhcXvBg5FtriPQmkM-UNCv0H71zPdVvm3YWJ6t8wRxIELslEPYBs5xOJ-0craKCb53zTW5fQ/s320/20230816_163006.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsUjM4HUp1qRb0Vw2qY9hfAy-wpu_3rV_R8zqPyZmzQaKmvIa2vveGlXxdV4Sorj6C4tRPPSPCOXuBEFXCDT3K5QnIccWABcuEkIwd2abJ3jcaKKs4rOxCEzaodxb5JpZ48CNbSA4HBGD51bRnYejgZHGAKUKmM6iQlTYs0BBYZoAVunrewVlyMZGhjE/s1209/20230816_163249.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsUjM4HUp1qRb0Vw2qY9hfAy-wpu_3rV_R8zqPyZmzQaKmvIa2vveGlXxdV4Sorj6C4tRPPSPCOXuBEFXCDT3K5QnIccWABcuEkIwd2abJ3jcaKKs4rOxCEzaodxb5JpZ48CNbSA4HBGD51bRnYejgZHGAKUKmM6iQlTYs0BBYZoAVunrewVlyMZGhjE/s320/20230816_163249.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZSsJrFmqW-Xg1mw0nBET2R6RuJD2MUqjI-krqltVPHlitVxkKqEBLkiTGqP50ddMUAqo08ndy3X43-QLzhyep6xVoj66fq8G7txxkCr38P4tS4AZcA0T1AcDfPmoN9EMwnGGrzVgmEYEu3AqRs0AhLbqzzoMXpkczrWwG5bvAKn8QxsEO4Vi8LfoppIU/s1209/20230816_163346.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZSsJrFmqW-Xg1mw0nBET2R6RuJD2MUqjI-krqltVPHlitVxkKqEBLkiTGqP50ddMUAqo08ndy3X43-QLzhyep6xVoj66fq8G7txxkCr38P4tS4AZcA0T1AcDfPmoN9EMwnGGrzVgmEYEu3AqRs0AhLbqzzoMXpkczrWwG5bvAKn8QxsEO4Vi8LfoppIU/s320/20230816_163346.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNhlDG5XUvB9rpIH5q59bODQg925sLaObOJai90tKFzqN3S0H_ltNEaz-NxwXX3SEPp8rBymKGZgYbFn8DWCeZdkhtrsUS_ReObcuUtEs8TzWr5SMhkDYJ2UUktTnzg6W2oVNby33MUQM5uRe1wCPEesiLgpfyyHtqPeuP28KpfmBKPBC_KtrwLgnseKU/s1209/20230816_163402.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNhlDG5XUvB9rpIH5q59bODQg925sLaObOJai90tKFzqN3S0H_ltNEaz-NxwXX3SEPp8rBymKGZgYbFn8DWCeZdkhtrsUS_ReObcuUtEs8TzWr5SMhkDYJ2UUktTnzg6W2oVNby33MUQM5uRe1wCPEesiLgpfyyHtqPeuP28KpfmBKPBC_KtrwLgnseKU/s320/20230816_163402.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSh9Ywz-e4mbRcDv0pO-TleBPH1h3uizT2IRwClFXIToMrF4d2utUTaZNF54iM0BHS4YJTUwvQqHuoB-p2OhnG0FTyzUpopt4yzxxIg_vfkTkBqXrgUxvLzmFgGJoy9cyIjKg8OhcTwuv8KtDWwfgxPrX6ZLeugimWLZdph9Xa3I2Ezmmz5I-nYKLgW64/s1209/20230816_163429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSh9Ywz-e4mbRcDv0pO-TleBPH1h3uizT2IRwClFXIToMrF4d2utUTaZNF54iM0BHS4YJTUwvQqHuoB-p2OhnG0FTyzUpopt4yzxxIg_vfkTkBqXrgUxvLzmFgGJoy9cyIjKg8OhcTwuv8KtDWwfgxPrX6ZLeugimWLZdph9Xa3I2Ezmmz5I-nYKLgW64/s320/20230816_163429.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdFy6_OO2Fm6XTAmbay588UWMIIZRkBGeKrzWB5pL3LfUo1qKW-mQxFjPRAHEG378xbVAiAefXxOwL8WkBaT4EHVBlCaRBrbfICgKb80QBFafiYwJwEadlh_bpbjDxGwf_TYavdvaWDc-4Z2bnS1lpogavzfThfoV0wJcl4g28D_uRhxew40XGRYCf3Jw/s1209/20230816_163503.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdFy6_OO2Fm6XTAmbay588UWMIIZRkBGeKrzWB5pL3LfUo1qKW-mQxFjPRAHEG378xbVAiAefXxOwL8WkBaT4EHVBlCaRBrbfICgKb80QBFafiYwJwEadlh_bpbjDxGwf_TYavdvaWDc-4Z2bnS1lpogavzfThfoV0wJcl4g28D_uRhxew40XGRYCf3Jw/s320/20230816_163503.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la gran fila dei lustrascarpe con le loro torrette</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBY98XoP-OiBUleaVahtkuQa75gM4lSC00Itka5OO1zIeJeGTY28jwmaCwwC_rXSe39DH_YnxYLgasEiLoK0rHBmIn5JQuSIFjvdlW9JLRfcoE4Tsed8BLrwU7N0XvZDgG5cyh7cBIp9pb7xDVNwmLCYrQF6yBcMXrwdqFp7pGe08iuXARGLwsfvb7mk8/s1209/20230816_164327.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBY98XoP-OiBUleaVahtkuQa75gM4lSC00Itka5OO1zIeJeGTY28jwmaCwwC_rXSe39DH_YnxYLgasEiLoK0rHBmIn5JQuSIFjvdlW9JLRfcoE4Tsed8BLrwU7N0XvZDgG5cyh7cBIp9pb7xDVNwmLCYrQF6yBcMXrwdqFp7pGe08iuXARGLwsfvb7mk8/s320/20230816_164327.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">molti negozi di stivali di cuoio super tamarri e cappelli da cowboy</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3TTtmFzHVbKlYohTGZiWv2w1oRQCUl9_lpvg_2HH9P5k1uEJaF-DDRe_9lrDwez5hqlh1qqXsSkt8XVMvRmG1jWTJsx7IWusQy0kQoQkba2ZDQHLBRVjNYHXngnCxS3iuDqWA3fv8Q2KtzYsvfj2AWfUGpE8Ke7w5zGuctvzUpK0wfTgTVj2CuvGcjg/s1209/20230816_164447.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3TTtmFzHVbKlYohTGZiWv2w1oRQCUl9_lpvg_2HH9P5k1uEJaF-DDRe_9lrDwez5hqlh1qqXsSkt8XVMvRmG1jWTJsx7IWusQy0kQoQkba2ZDQHLBRVjNYHXngnCxS3iuDqWA3fv8Q2KtzYsvfj2AWfUGpE8Ke7w5zGuctvzUpK0wfTgTVj2CuvGcjg/s320/20230816_164447.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibYfz50EW2fpijK6pxwOomHLveEehb_CnnMLXVtlYeAcCjt3tnFmDmOB_yO452N_e6Kw202rgcqs-bgDwC7_vCcFdI1uQNdbUepn_8-Y61rnthyP32LC2_U4w6ENz_ojY4hfhCUQTbAjiYW_tbwKo5aJIbP0HAJxbk_uJDfRpfUvIVLhVuyJt4EtboZko/s1209/20230816_164456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibYfz50EW2fpijK6pxwOomHLveEehb_CnnMLXVtlYeAcCjt3tnFmDmOB_yO452N_e6Kw202rgcqs-bgDwC7_vCcFdI1uQNdbUepn_8-Y61rnthyP32LC2_U4w6ENz_ojY4hfhCUQTbAjiYW_tbwKo5aJIbP0HAJxbk_uJDfRpfUvIVLhVuyJt4EtboZko/s320/20230816_164456.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGU1Pnzu2xCV2l9I-HV4vRPY0oIbB4DKs1Gk5oehIUf-9eGUdF5YKlXCT2ZvwDLBl7PdWZkZU5l_pXoFfzjxpuk4OJCGtVPazw0lY7z8YKw9wug01M-iCcXHNM3_6U0GsAom1XgXOVeXQZ1_xFXADEzX5G8yU2cSva9gk6yDHIwMebQwOWGlWPGJrsGkc/s1209/20230816_164507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGU1Pnzu2xCV2l9I-HV4vRPY0oIbB4DKs1Gk5oehIUf-9eGUdF5YKlXCT2ZvwDLBl7PdWZkZU5l_pXoFfzjxpuk4OJCGtVPazw0lY7z8YKw9wug01M-iCcXHNM3_6U0GsAom1XgXOVeXQZ1_xFXADEzX5G8yU2cSva9gk6yDHIwMebQwOWGlWPGJrsGkc/s320/20230816_164507.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFAKSM9bGlRnldDiCj20739E3xzk7Cxg2_qR_7xIr4hbwUc4GcIlHwxx7ZAqT4AlECtA9IrvQTUyJugXJW8ne7ICPnVfDiXuGv9O4a8VabjAUlZaxkgVCGU_FncfyOCRs-gJL_Pd9-ey2L4pIHFVurq_JpCd-GUHUzmPjKb41b1bbG-0Oe1zhC9OHcaVs/s1209/20230816_164531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFAKSM9bGlRnldDiCj20739E3xzk7Cxg2_qR_7xIr4hbwUc4GcIlHwxx7ZAqT4AlECtA9IrvQTUyJugXJW8ne7ICPnVfDiXuGv9O4a8VabjAUlZaxkgVCGU_FncfyOCRs-gJL_Pd9-ey2L4pIHFVurq_JpCd-GUHUzmPjKb41b1bbG-0Oe1zhC9OHcaVs/s320/20230816_164531.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8eoKOO7BhX-QYjLmTQ4EBuEl-MbmuySuDqgKvfY7Qy_3ooDrZQjkF1FOfY_n2T6B6CngqSWeM5XROlfZDKaax-z_YD_43NF4vWlzNcTCMjCJHkSAol1yMuhuCPtvF9rt2N2lmu1sme1erYA80EUO0UfWG1TCHM7LXpeb8NuBkIKTDxuMfxxBgaxe7-0w/s1209/20230816_164555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8eoKOO7BhX-QYjLmTQ4EBuEl-MbmuySuDqgKvfY7Qy_3ooDrZQjkF1FOfY_n2T6B6CngqSWeM5XROlfZDKaax-z_YD_43NF4vWlzNcTCMjCJHkSAol1yMuhuCPtvF9rt2N2lmu1sme1erYA80EUO0UfWG1TCHM7LXpeb8NuBkIKTDxuMfxxBgaxe7-0w/s320/20230816_164555.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Purtroppo devo esimermi dall'assaggiare il tejuino, bevanda tipica a base di mais fermentato, e i piccoli frutti gialli (bacche di arrayan) che vengono venduti cosparsi di paprika. Il mio apparato digerente è ancora malfunzionante e devo limitarmi a pastine brodose, riso bianco e gallette tristi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdMe6IUGtHQ-JOpMQExxs941hx_VOyKwdmyC2RxS0n6WfObBlv3-SFn1rTUfChi40GLeZDdPMXtlbZ9xNbOyTt9pE4kiwfA9-zCUz9n39hKITxn446ZgoOPBStoq4NN_FHBXWKjlvdIP2C3L7mMfSJl-FHT8G9fTnLuDbMnXjDu7tMjfQakjiMLjSvCCo/s1209/20230816_170057.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdMe6IUGtHQ-JOpMQExxs941hx_VOyKwdmyC2RxS0n6WfObBlv3-SFn1rTUfChi40GLeZDdPMXtlbZ9xNbOyTt9pE4kiwfA9-zCUz9n39hKITxn446ZgoOPBStoq4NN_FHBXWKjlvdIP2C3L7mMfSJl-FHT8G9fTnLuDbMnXjDu7tMjfQakjiMLjSvCCo/s320/20230816_170057.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>La sera passa nel tentativo di contattare l'unico hotel della nostra meta di domani, Rosamorada. Vorremmo evitare sorprese, considerando che, oltretutto, son previsti violenti temporali la sera (come sempre, e come anche oggi). Alla fine riusciamo a metà, ma in qualche modo faremo. In fondo, ormai, dopo tutto questo tempo, siamo quasi sgamati come i local!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>17/8</div><div>Tepic-Rosamorada</div><div>93km</div><div><br /></div><div>Tappa breve, ma non corta, e intensa, ma non difficile.</div><div>Questa mattina ci alziamo presto, dopo un sonno ristoratore che, purtroppo, non ha ancora portato pace nelle mie budella. Dopo colazione salutiamo Enrique, che è in versione sportiva camuffato da simil Pantani, con bandana, canotta aderente e panzetta in vista. Poi ci buttiamo nel gomitolo di strade di Tepic, che, anche in uscita, si rivela non un grumo di traffico e smog come altre città, ma una tranquilla serie di quartieri residenziali agili da pedalare. Seguiamo sempre la 15, che ci porterà a nord, al porto di Mazatlan. Purtroppo le mie sviolinate di ieri sulla fine delle salite erano premature. Certo, qui parliamo di colline, e di una strada che scende più che salire. Ma, una volta fuori da Tepic, dobbiamo affrontare una serie di rampe cattivelle che si alternano a lunghe volate verso il piano. Purtroppo anche qui non mancano i vecchi camion scassoni e rumorosissimi, che ci affettano la fettina di culo sulla strada stretta.</div><div>Intanto, intorno, il paesaggio è cambiato di nuovo: ora siamo tornati in un ambiente che ricorda la giungla della penisola dello Yucatan, con alberi fitti fitti alternati a palme e un tappetto verdissimo di erbe che coprono il suolo. Ricompaiono i nidi di montezuma oropendola, un grosso uccello nero e giallo che costruisce nidi simili a palloncini mezzi sgonfi che penzolano dai rami e dai fili dell'alta tensione. Siamo tornati alle terre basse e rigogliose.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIqwp-nCCQJaLrWQLk0ZVj_vSMy6qGFTG9gw_M7fAEtRKweMKLwmj-dMb2nxCVZgQAC0s7-1ZZD86L9I0boUSLZRyGfqLR61enUEjve_MjDvQH0gdw8KL1WSPUbxsL0GBmZmn02_Dv-4vjXEAR1ADmf_8NFlh_2WSVQ8ZNnQ-xbvbbNoZhQgpTR3Z81s/s1209/20230817_082704.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcIqwp-nCCQJaLrWQLk0ZVj_vSMy6qGFTG9gw_M7fAEtRKweMKLwmj-dMb2nxCVZgQAC0s7-1ZZD86L9I0boUSLZRyGfqLR61enUEjve_MjDvQH0gdw8KL1WSPUbxsL0GBmZmn02_Dv-4vjXEAR1ADmf_8NFlh_2WSVQ8ZNnQ-xbvbbNoZhQgpTR3Z81s/s320/20230817_082704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuELjneu89i02jXAWtr8q-Gr5xDCUi2o33dvuPExChAZqRPlgxB4hO2jn-8xJF4SBAcWYSqL-foZ6xDfM48yK1q2W7DD6OEs7DJJLYfoQ4LCBoewWQXd7AjhmPo4gITXMPXRZF9kplbPU7QFqoezL-NS1MUsA_NvEJwCEq7WLR8OCeE80R-lAVrLMMSGg/s1209/20230817_082835.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuELjneu89i02jXAWtr8q-Gr5xDCUi2o33dvuPExChAZqRPlgxB4hO2jn-8xJF4SBAcWYSqL-foZ6xDfM48yK1q2W7DD6OEs7DJJLYfoQ4LCBoewWQXd7AjhmPo4gITXMPXRZF9kplbPU7QFqoezL-NS1MUsA_NvEJwCEq7WLR8OCeE80R-lAVrLMMSGg/s320/20230817_082835.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzDLvdqSkAREsk1pn2j4_g0frwdkQXafcnmQBBBrIezYxgSGj8E5jRG-vtD_FqBs6O7t2Qew05FpTaaY6WnnMzfn1W8K0G0GQqb9OEeAKymMdefXDPBq3tnVW1lbwDHeZYT3XTB4QF2gwtMabMXxVj9Tv426ttdmW8BWKe6lgiGuuw3AqMUg8ehGJmJ0/s1209/20230817_091523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzDLvdqSkAREsk1pn2j4_g0frwdkQXafcnmQBBBrIezYxgSGj8E5jRG-vtD_FqBs6O7t2Qew05FpTaaY6WnnMzfn1W8K0G0GQqb9OEeAKymMdefXDPBq3tnVW1lbwDHeZYT3XTB4QF2gwtMabMXxVj9Tv426ttdmW8BWKe6lgiGuuw3AqMUg8ehGJmJ0/s320/20230817_091523.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Incrociamo poche case sparse e fatiscenti, e più cimiterini che villaggi. In alcuni altari non ci sono santi o madonne ma la Santa Muerte, con la sua falce e il suo cranio coperto dal cappuccio. Quando lo sguardo può correre all'orizzonte, il panorama su queste basse alture boscose è bello da togliere il fiato, come si coglie, ad esempio, dal mirador de l'aguila, dove ci fermiamo a scattare qualche foto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAiiV61hGbHIXE5wzwbVVmN6uOp4pbwruaWi4YHAt8wls0RgLOLrXDid14t8-3X7PkFeJIl60VxJjSpnS6ZXxYAAfB39jidDoKGud-fOBDgmP2QbhM-eWpIrtmE6lesWpoW7JL50uwNWT_OAL9ZKnbAtMnYeJDP_EK2t2COIaqcVv3O1xIsq1NjDwFRXo/s1209/20230817_091817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAiiV61hGbHIXE5wzwbVVmN6uOp4pbwruaWi4YHAt8wls0RgLOLrXDid14t8-3X7PkFeJIl60VxJjSpnS6ZXxYAAfB39jidDoKGud-fOBDgmP2QbhM-eWpIrtmE6lesWpoW7JL50uwNWT_OAL9ZKnbAtMnYeJDP_EK2t2COIaqcVv3O1xIsq1NjDwFRXo/s320/20230817_091817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeZJlGG41_M8QCv71-t3oq9Xf7f9iKVVo0PQKYjB7L0t_heGzqWOAIVZnWhgb85uIGyaxqqcXTgY_St_Fgx7OS37jc0Q0qtbzJSZAQQlIpf_2gDOPDwP-JBw3ULwOyZ-X0Y3LbmrsIsZiAnuCbVtaYetw_Jqe7-a3QZ2tja8yCq8PNqH8i7NPTh87bGU/s979/20230817_091848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeZJlGG41_M8QCv71-t3oq9Xf7f9iKVVo0PQKYjB7L0t_heGzqWOAIVZnWhgb85uIGyaxqqcXTgY_St_Fgx7OS37jc0Q0qtbzJSZAQQlIpf_2gDOPDwP-JBw3ULwOyZ-X0Y3LbmrsIsZiAnuCbVtaYetw_Jqe7-a3QZ2tja8yCq8PNqH8i7NPTh87bGU/s320/20230817_091848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cK4-hkbohevVve0-iJGunsS5oNcGlNbN68p8iOi7ZDo2LjSmlmGdfAjzoIjvmVctz9zMXPVoziKryWdyFWlHdyh9bTHVPc82VN5RQo1xDHouA9llkHH4G8xHQLm9Qo4RBiYgpCoZiK-U_CCTlSxODCKcYzTr3AvBQif5jnAlYLn5g8QTP4Eqh_YOIt0/s1209/20230817_091917.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cK4-hkbohevVve0-iJGunsS5oNcGlNbN68p8iOi7ZDo2LjSmlmGdfAjzoIjvmVctz9zMXPVoziKryWdyFWlHdyh9bTHVPc82VN5RQo1xDHouA9llkHH4G8xHQLm9Qo4RBiYgpCoZiK-U_CCTlSxODCKcYzTr3AvBQif5jnAlYLn5g8QTP4Eqh_YOIt0/s320/20230817_091917.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCiY2oOJYaFfK-Xwhi0sUfE8mElg66I2JiLck4OnXq8boBF_TGwvXK8DKU2N1ytbup8hDOIM4C5zfyr_afNmYosbZkLkmriqVkFLB_X08ElBTN1Vs93ko2SMQn8wuHb6DpGTgB4EGB5sdrAUzJ6e1ezU39J8AgKeZ3xchSKgkj5GVTOizXsO_i3lpK2qU/s1209/20230817_091933.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCiY2oOJYaFfK-Xwhi0sUfE8mElg66I2JiLck4OnXq8boBF_TGwvXK8DKU2N1ytbup8hDOIM4C5zfyr_afNmYosbZkLkmriqVkFLB_X08ElBTN1Vs93ko2SMQn8wuHb6DpGTgB4EGB5sdrAUzJ6e1ezU39J8AgKeZ3xchSKgkj5GVTOizXsO_i3lpK2qU/s320/20230817_091933.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNpeEp7nMLJ1vvWmawa8Fwoqc7lLhtBSd7SPtqFOLoZNdumT2HQwn84SkkHDtgugOC-_RgSpDYFTeBoYcgzrC_5VraI7K_AuQixG77oU63dlzJ9W0B9C-gIf-sR4mpJqhFkdGikY7eVFyL4EQGO9jHSR81UlD1PmjHJbjHyzecwoOhBRDXUYpAv18KnM/s1209/20230817_092127.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNpeEp7nMLJ1vvWmawa8Fwoqc7lLhtBSd7SPtqFOLoZNdumT2HQwn84SkkHDtgugOC-_RgSpDYFTeBoYcgzrC_5VraI7K_AuQixG77oU63dlzJ9W0B9C-gIf-sR4mpJqhFkdGikY7eVFyL4EQGO9jHSR81UlD1PmjHJbjHyzecwoOhBRDXUYpAv18KnM/s320/20230817_092127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Riprendiamo la discesa, che corre lungo una tortuosa linea che serpeggia attorno ai fianchi delle colline; i miei freni fischiano, e non perchè son contenti: le pastiglie sono consumate, mi sa che una delle operazioni dei prossimi giorni sarà sostituirle.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygHOpuf_rc-o9k6Jb25EaN5yt2cL9sJ-gnvTTAzV52MCqbz3CLuFQfGV1fDC3Te9XDk1O7S5MHVt5M3qKn86m6f4mSC8YH87k51Qpem8dZ3PL3JUzQu3dGoIABKRq9FgG5nPdcuih9guxLoCRaCXY7cU4JsggRRAnQFQS7zvcsaQoEs5Ovjipa0_Em-4/s1209/20230817_093448.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygHOpuf_rc-o9k6Jb25EaN5yt2cL9sJ-gnvTTAzV52MCqbz3CLuFQfGV1fDC3Te9XDk1O7S5MHVt5M3qKn86m6f4mSC8YH87k51Qpem8dZ3PL3JUzQu3dGoIABKRq9FgG5nPdcuih9guxLoCRaCXY7cU4JsggRRAnQFQS7zvcsaQoEs5Ovjipa0_Em-4/s320/20230817_093448.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkrUOQkiqaS7I3gQLhNhmjXPqyiRR9qZn8QV25UJjjUVc28bBBTYHyaOLKtWBZgULz8vr_9HyC8N8OQ3baC_Oh8pFjoET6UyYjiZctDRmTCO9RQizx5dwqaoMfRP4Qt65EsDpQDYO3v2OBAtb2DHlSFKKISEgBZVGbe-Ze43wNRGAOgjf1C8D4OSiDTE/s1209/20230817_093948.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkrUOQkiqaS7I3gQLhNhmjXPqyiRR9qZn8QV25UJjjUVc28bBBTYHyaOLKtWBZgULz8vr_9HyC8N8OQ3baC_Oh8pFjoET6UyYjiZctDRmTCO9RQizx5dwqaoMfRP4Qt65EsDpQDYO3v2OBAtb2DHlSFKKISEgBZVGbe-Ze43wNRGAOgjf1C8D4OSiDTE/s320/20230817_093948.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVVAdDfOMbt1Bj3zfBszD-OjLOZrJBnVWXmmWNnp1yyXsDeUlBQvSLNDh-iISalNYt_fXBASQfW3UrpQO6Cnv9p6qSyrr2dAMIEjXFgoVJ8B8id-QP1y50YhBG9KaPrKiGNvr-OVp8MA7sQr39WlMO_tBW3U7K0f9V6I7I6URMwm-SO0uZH3hnh_qZ5j4/s1209/20230817_094010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVVAdDfOMbt1Bj3zfBszD-OjLOZrJBnVWXmmWNnp1yyXsDeUlBQvSLNDh-iISalNYt_fXBASQfW3UrpQO6Cnv9p6qSyrr2dAMIEjXFgoVJ8B8id-QP1y50YhBG9KaPrKiGNvr-OVp8MA7sQr39WlMO_tBW3U7K0f9V6I7I6URMwm-SO0uZH3hnh_qZ5j4/s320/20230817_094010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilSUtmKQgI8HicyiMUHeGxuu2KKQ5AqvpMuFniXvNnTy_OAaiAUKupFjotH2I94Y7kLXacnJRkOTINS1O4UOgmeuUH0uutD76wPNeUDIwdq-wA9AkbB2DeeNOn9SBZbjGc1YGBe4CsXYB8rrrLv6-Y9fRXj1hOFcaK8mhrYHw0_E9FXS-6XA3T9gUFrXY/s787/20230817_094050.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="590" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilSUtmKQgI8HicyiMUHeGxuu2KKQ5AqvpMuFniXvNnTy_OAaiAUKupFjotH2I94Y7kLXacnJRkOTINS1O4UOgmeuUH0uutD76wPNeUDIwdq-wA9AkbB2DeeNOn9SBZbjGc1YGBe4CsXYB8rrrLv6-Y9fRXj1hOFcaK8mhrYHw0_E9FXS-6XA3T9gUFrXY/s320/20230817_094050.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriva quindi il momento che tanti dubbi e ripensamenti ci ha procurato i giorni scorsi, quando studiavo le tappe. La nostra 15 libre si immette nell'omonima cuota, l'autostrada. Ma è solo per pochi kilometri, non vietati, senza caselli e, onestamente, più sicuri delle strade percorse finora: ha un bordo larghissimo e il fondo è in ordine. Quindi, senza indugi, imbocchiamo lo snodo e, in un attimo, già ne siamo fuori, dopo aver passato un minuscolo pueblo diroccato che sta in piedi solo grazie alle bancarelle che offrono frutta, noci e bibite fresche ai guidatori in transito (spesso al volo).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijApV1XWXl5aoz26K0PF5S4jnbNfFul9cS2iQHwPdT6mPJHWJkaO66bxvjxWqGszl3Iqu4LjXmWm8pNTgAWHMkLe0D5wRF7axlKLgjOqPLgx5nhNrLfY2Q8z65xxhvFSfeQ679tl_eVFf2kBtqQr9vIYB33ZoLGOketEjNuhw7e3akLsWZQxgD-NZsmv0/s1209/20230817_094555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijApV1XWXl5aoz26K0PF5S4jnbNfFul9cS2iQHwPdT6mPJHWJkaO66bxvjxWqGszl3Iqu4LjXmWm8pNTgAWHMkLe0D5wRF7axlKLgjOqPLgx5nhNrLfY2Q8z65xxhvFSfeQ679tl_eVFf2kBtqQr9vIYB33ZoLGOketEjNuhw7e3akLsWZQxgD-NZsmv0/s320/20230817_094555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnsWlo3BNKQazm6cOAsj3R4O3BNJ25ku7qJptnvzbWTfLs87VjdiggchLS89wnFSv4KByCFNFGPeNBaqNpBfGi6ZCfzXwyx5sI0SOefOogFXhrelqHrJ1cYqnx0bti4w8xoyBlXujGJ90nOlRHhnYhh1DQsPLG4LilbOVzVOkc1Ul6isj15ZKPQjzh2KQ/s1209/20230817_101055.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnsWlo3BNKQazm6cOAsj3R4O3BNJ25ku7qJptnvzbWTfLs87VjdiggchLS89wnFSv4KByCFNFGPeNBaqNpBfGi6ZCfzXwyx5sI0SOefOogFXhrelqHrJ1cYqnx0bti4w8xoyBlXujGJ90nOlRHhnYhh1DQsPLG4LilbOVzVOkc1Ul6isj15ZKPQjzh2KQ/s320/20230817_101055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmeoFAT9X3EkhEFESrfygXuP7yBY4LLqYY94zsQq3f94f9qlUhRIQR59pp3lK8Y8m9c8d1aa-9p3tRw90LKU7eORUjvnwmZu5jbONOMFbeKOd0e_hJaaymg-PoURB-jyBZlBHwaFdTO6xUyC02Ux_OjCUgzEJEsVq7jkyYHUyiDkz9NWs8QPBymOoaSE/s1209/20230817_101058.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmeoFAT9X3EkhEFESrfygXuP7yBY4LLqYY94zsQq3f94f9qlUhRIQR59pp3lK8Y8m9c8d1aa-9p3tRw90LKU7eORUjvnwmZu5jbONOMFbeKOd0e_hJaaymg-PoURB-jyBZlBHwaFdTO6xUyC02Ux_OjCUgzEJEsVq7jkyYHUyiDkz9NWs8QPBymOoaSE/s320/20230817_101058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Non ci facciamo mancare nemmeno i lavori in corso con strada a traffico alternato, dove, per ogni lato, ci sono tre operai sbandieratori, di cui uno fa la siesta, uno ride e gioca con il terzo, che è l'unico che lavora, cioè sbandiera un telo catarifrangente, per indicare che è il momento di passare.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggCAuvfQ5TA3UyIPt9bUsZYQqAa94IHbQaqhIE6hDjFhs4hWbaEoJ-KG007gErbuoCwbqtihltQeZCZywktdp_llX1lh_dWn9qZRLKCusLxReeSaIiQch-ryVYoBWu-ch776IiWnA50ERVqf3_DbggbyI0Ix6lsB-69KrsnRq8TpBeqQg9FXUss6mRqBs/s1209/20230817_101225.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggCAuvfQ5TA3UyIPt9bUsZYQqAa94IHbQaqhIE6hDjFhs4hWbaEoJ-KG007gErbuoCwbqtihltQeZCZywktdp_llX1lh_dWn9qZRLKCusLxReeSaIiQch-ryVYoBWu-ch776IiWnA50ERVqf3_DbggbyI0Ix6lsB-69KrsnRq8TpBeqQg9FXUss6mRqBs/s320/20230817_101225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxXzNl90LMbpqTmtKUTT0qzsjViu0MRABpan891CvV2kxspmhhpym3cuU949_koTuq2OzoetnGMCjkS3gSB9sJyxKcb7cr30DPyBgZ7l8ZgpwKIr8KO8v6k-kd-_JDdtJs6gmEgbSi_b3J9yr_97oqeRYt3Lkinz6Jnjp5XpD2dpLrm9LUrjoICDGqrI/s1238/20230817_101335.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1238" data-original-width="928" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxXzNl90LMbpqTmtKUTT0qzsjViu0MRABpan891CvV2kxspmhhpym3cuU949_koTuq2OzoetnGMCjkS3gSB9sJyxKcb7cr30DPyBgZ7l8ZgpwKIr8KO8v6k-kd-_JDdtJs6gmEgbSi_b3J9yr_97oqeRYt3Lkinz6Jnjp5XpD2dpLrm9LUrjoICDGqrI/s320/20230817_101335.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Continua il saliscendi, sempre meno ripido, sempre più scendi che sali. Intorno a noi si aprono pratoni punteggiati di palme, mentre il cielo, finora velato, lascia emergere un sole rovente che ci stordisce.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ04OzbbD3Ty_bYaD0FUe-c4yla39RegXxkeBuEwvu7FSOgcpLvdJWIcqrbEokPNgkmbxzQOVks-ss-xgywQDNRFNdSjXjnSjvr0nAGjQ6UODuRszvdNZs_LgMHotb032FY2lzyN-cBTXozfsRbc_lorUlRr0W-RE2h3DsCYVZ_SEktbE_gIavTkI8JLI/s1209/20230817_102917.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ04OzbbD3Ty_bYaD0FUe-c4yla39RegXxkeBuEwvu7FSOgcpLvdJWIcqrbEokPNgkmbxzQOVks-ss-xgywQDNRFNdSjXjnSjvr0nAGjQ6UODuRszvdNZs_LgMHotb032FY2lzyN-cBTXozfsRbc_lorUlRr0W-RE2h3DsCYVZ_SEktbE_gIavTkI8JLI/s320/20230817_102917.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLK69gmtwOHJ8XI5MzgZtswlDqJZx5MiadXCBCF1lPDEU8NWoVC5iqVCQJa1jYAmOstmbSB_WXQxZA59AZTUNC7zf1hQX1kl2gPYZT8bocJfZeQczl4i-ReYvOOTxEhH6IxGt7cBubvfGEER4Tbiid4NSUey6TZRSV5_4aM1qgzD7W0VB25okxCs2z8iw/s1209/20230817_102927.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLK69gmtwOHJ8XI5MzgZtswlDqJZx5MiadXCBCF1lPDEU8NWoVC5iqVCQJa1jYAmOstmbSB_WXQxZA59AZTUNC7zf1hQX1kl2gPYZT8bocJfZeQczl4i-ReYvOOTxEhH6IxGt7cBubvfGEER4Tbiid4NSUey6TZRSV5_4aM1qgzD7W0VB25okxCs2z8iw/s320/20230817_102927.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFgcjaalsDpbD9-wkXXCxqbm3BMeCJ5B5wU2wXCy1NWf7ZjTJUKTuwgCu5UURakLL_c-DbXedZ0RkL9RS4J1-CEDhaCAz4MMyodTw3zuWF6Sd4esrs0lyzxbP2AdN4Rz5t4ZaAteaxi1mGSeVZb1Sc615JXPAHY46606reUgIVv5RdSNPp0zl1FhE1ec4/s1209/20230817_104754.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFgcjaalsDpbD9-wkXXCxqbm3BMeCJ5B5wU2wXCy1NWf7ZjTJUKTuwgCu5UURakLL_c-DbXedZ0RkL9RS4J1-CEDhaCAz4MMyodTw3zuWF6Sd4esrs0lyzxbP2AdN4Rz5t4ZaAteaxi1mGSeVZb1Sc615JXPAHY46606reUgIVv5RdSNPp0zl1FhE1ec4/s320/20230817_104754.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTxPViE_3Sb_gWzKgmLVD9L7esR7hqve_ecIQQQ-q1Y8AI93UjKOnsNZq1l34uzh4o1bkYqPnJMgXLc-qT1O_EDgpxHn52U8s-UAIq6awCQuEAnliRr4RoHknErZdkARh23GxAo5kNO7JK_ryg4x2Ho8MSWl3KU44Y0BbY35t2ufQBBqScj7TwMrGIsw/s1209/20230817_105015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTxPViE_3Sb_gWzKgmLVD9L7esR7hqve_ecIQQQ-q1Y8AI93UjKOnsNZq1l34uzh4o1bkYqPnJMgXLc-qT1O_EDgpxHn52U8s-UAIq6awCQuEAnliRr4RoHknErZdkARh23GxAo5kNO7JK_ryg4x2Ho8MSWl3KU44Y0BbY35t2ufQBBqScj7TwMrGIsw/s320/20230817_105015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I paesini che passiamo sono talmente microscopici da non essere segnalati nemmeno da un cartello con il nome. Sembrano più gruppi di case familiari di chi gestisce i negozietti o le bancarelle a bordo strada. Molti edifici sono anche abbandonati e in rovina.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5MWU4J0XctkR_8eDYQeKIJ3VuB8Ung4-4C_q_-zd849yTtiXl1G7EdT2hStIdrMCtfH7mXOKcYts57LlYcw79SDUdf9-DyFWLbAD22JCwStEV8pfdpzCE7j7V75QA3kjITIraSP7os5_3COwxoWn18x_YfAedv1qfGEbysKBD9xHa84VVHeeF-wj9Gc/s1209/20230817_105335.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5MWU4J0XctkR_8eDYQeKIJ3VuB8Ung4-4C_q_-zd849yTtiXl1G7EdT2hStIdrMCtfH7mXOKcYts57LlYcw79SDUdf9-DyFWLbAD22JCwStEV8pfdpzCE7j7V75QA3kjITIraSP7os5_3COwxoWn18x_YfAedv1qfGEbysKBD9xHa84VVHeeF-wj9Gc/s320/20230817_105335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEBQdHNSE7BUBVO7H8scNnELk1eZPZv8UFf3HG-zD29gCg35AXaInJ94kuA6p90SZ_RkyTRQkTTGlk33okCAM40qbuq0FO3HKXNeyBYrWaQnODjSAavdBCX9b0EKjZnpGLEqE3iCF1-_NxYEDmIAVH_uDxnxcNqqzgPkhyREb20TOjwtoNNTwKcZRHcWk/s1209/20230817_112113.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEBQdHNSE7BUBVO7H8scNnELk1eZPZv8UFf3HG-zD29gCg35AXaInJ94kuA6p90SZ_RkyTRQkTTGlk33okCAM40qbuq0FO3HKXNeyBYrWaQnODjSAavdBCX9b0EKjZnpGLEqE3iCF1-_NxYEDmIAVH_uDxnxcNqqzgPkhyREb20TOjwtoNNTwKcZRHcWk/s320/20230817_112113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj65cmR1WGbZGPYHOd7SqS19BwiO_-Kp0_xZV2XHymmONjGdAKJBJFLLM3w_WnctZ_NkeXf4SjlMfkdd-Mc4vI90jUwoNFUMvSATNjLbS5ziuxreFv8jorURz15P3gUgctBbkMXWi6ur76gQRb5elFfqFzPKoGpU38nx2HD5fvfWdRBYO46ZeH_h6zYl3g/s1209/20230817_112118.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj65cmR1WGbZGPYHOd7SqS19BwiO_-Kp0_xZV2XHymmONjGdAKJBJFLLM3w_WnctZ_NkeXf4SjlMfkdd-Mc4vI90jUwoNFUMvSATNjLbS5ziuxreFv8jorURz15P3gUgctBbkMXWi6ur76gQRb5elFfqFzPKoGpU38nx2HD5fvfWdRBYO46ZeH_h6zYl3g/s320/20230817_112118.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAgFXQFRrRLfd89YDYIJZHQCgJZQ7eqZ6w6M0kjGCJDZPkILwb1foxlPDO5nsX1rURojP7LCvdF_Coxh42TEXKsvl3xt_br0QtQ3A2nPLyHs9E3Vl1AfTqomaUQS-ldPgvFKsmgF6nC_IArJFjhRlcIyahXDrzqoU3EXz2SMWSJgbsnyKTZhDxIqFkkfM/s1209/20230817_112430.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAgFXQFRrRLfd89YDYIJZHQCgJZQ7eqZ6w6M0kjGCJDZPkILwb1foxlPDO5nsX1rURojP7LCvdF_Coxh42TEXKsvl3xt_br0QtQ3A2nPLyHs9E3Vl1AfTqomaUQS-ldPgvFKsmgF6nC_IArJFjhRlcIyahXDrzqoU3EXz2SMWSJgbsnyKTZhDxIqFkkfM/s320/20230817_112430.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHo7cMkrw--wHC37SKKiKXnUA6JkVXpIjsBbPC4lN1K93srYeB7pDBkBiAEdwu3zD9Nu5AAGsjogzHOBX8ytpbSIfdoYFsex4GIbQDg7Q0yR-ECZ8c7gzIsUbDWaqCm92lMA_UravaX60OrRL9xcViSn6a3rNA8JkwdPLDXEElzIMDoUbuW84APjAeeQo/s1238/20230817_112450.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1238" data-original-width="928" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHo7cMkrw--wHC37SKKiKXnUA6JkVXpIjsBbPC4lN1K93srYeB7pDBkBiAEdwu3zD9Nu5AAGsjogzHOBX8ytpbSIfdoYFsex4GIbQDg7Q0yR-ECZ8c7gzIsUbDWaqCm92lMA_UravaX60OrRL9xcViSn6a3rNA8JkwdPLDXEElzIMDoUbuW84APjAeeQo/s320/20230817_112450.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Siamo ormai, definitivamente, sulla costa. Ma, sorpresona, l'oceano non si vede nemmeno con il binocolo, nascosto dietro frange di Sierra e distese verdi di giungla e paludi. Poco male: ci rifaremo a brevissimo!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4a9hvQf9ER8LgWY6y4woZOI4V8xztckBZU2gK0nnQtnov6vC2dmKNy9Ul7DrQ9IhFw5jKtH4ALANQTH4xPBAc1k920Tj0Q0SsGNoCooaGI7ICefO2BXkxgry7LaTZwTSSwzgbWjoaQ0WIKr6PEVO7UID6aP9np7RHoFzK2pdTz6FFdYfkYcuc8-DmO8/s1209/20230817_114133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG4a9hvQf9ER8LgWY6y4woZOI4V8xztckBZU2gK0nnQtnov6vC2dmKNy9Ul7DrQ9IhFw5jKtH4ALANQTH4xPBAc1k920Tj0Q0SsGNoCooaGI7ICefO2BXkxgry7LaTZwTSSwzgbWjoaQ0WIKr6PEVO7UID6aP9np7RHoFzK2pdTz6FFdYfkYcuc8-DmO8/s320/20230817_114133.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Passati i 70km decidiamo di fare sosta in quello che pare un paese, ma risulta semplicemente una pompa di benzina con negozietti attorno, e una pletora di ambulantes che vendono cibarie ai passeggeri dei bus che qui si fermano in sosta carburante. L'unico filo di ombra nell'aria inquinatissima da tutti i tubi di scappamento dell'universo mondo risulta conteso tra noi e i venditori, con cui facciamo quattro chiacchiere (due ogni due sono richieste di comprare qualcosa). Uno vende bicchieri di frutta fresca tagliata, e, nelle attese, ne pilucca un po' qui e un po' là senza rovinare le composizioni. Un altro vende tamales e... Gamberetti! Fritti, sembrerebbe. Nei momenti di morta abbandona i sacchetti pieni di camarones sul cestino della spazzatura, per riagguantarli quando si avvicina un autobus.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0w1Ewv_7ZZHJWbu809dZu0WP3jdqlfyswOwvzI-YVjBB47P_ba0N-XWJ3L2LEhnVdobGxMsXmupFPPsbX6imbUnkiNnyIbTBLmNjlfn7_rKk3BXqsV-D3dplLgBdfAKEIxX_fKL1JfTpNS2rVpCgWYvvHqowsVV6I6577qiXhxuTJmFnbWAsJLmk5ZuM/s1209/20230817_120828.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0w1Ewv_7ZZHJWbu809dZu0WP3jdqlfyswOwvzI-YVjBB47P_ba0N-XWJ3L2LEhnVdobGxMsXmupFPPsbX6imbUnkiNnyIbTBLmNjlfn7_rKk3BXqsV-D3dplLgBdfAKEIxX_fKL1JfTpNS2rVpCgWYvvHqowsVV6I6577qiXhxuTJmFnbWAsJLmk5ZuM/s320/20230817_120828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2I8LxfxBA91RYknHljRMZZbmyzZxv4MF5Orczo0N1IYKQNlV2tf4xPe6giGPcx2VzNvi8RVTo5AW3K5hcqGwsd5QlBJ8QQPNlSHTOzZ2XoSE0FzRfoREE9BWI1k8zPNvG_2gEBJsM-LA1yutgCB7ew6AoabAtLtGj8_HA7Xo10RWBvJEBoiwVNw5ummw/s1209/20230817_121756.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2I8LxfxBA91RYknHljRMZZbmyzZxv4MF5Orczo0N1IYKQNlV2tf4xPe6giGPcx2VzNvi8RVTo5AW3K5hcqGwsd5QlBJ8QQPNlSHTOzZ2XoSE0FzRfoREE9BWI1k8zPNvG_2gEBJsM-LA1yutgCB7ew6AoabAtLtGj8_HA7Xo10RWBvJEBoiwVNw5ummw/s320/20230817_121756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwfhzXa3Rh3f1P_Cj3lhH-gZtp8CVEY9SFQLw9DjlMNMRwipdRyWmBU9-Eo9SM2_97qdUyzFmk-yOoRO_ZMEan0ceIpqNJUFlfsv7y75DHS9ZhGODI4sKuo6XK8kXvVkBKP72SbZXIxMPuYjtwmrlvVR4HmVyUKq532McXLNlYYi1j5VqXwNOgils-DM/s1209/20230817_121801.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwfhzXa3Rh3f1P_Cj3lhH-gZtp8CVEY9SFQLw9DjlMNMRwipdRyWmBU9-Eo9SM2_97qdUyzFmk-yOoRO_ZMEan0ceIpqNJUFlfsv7y75DHS9ZhGODI4sKuo6XK8kXvVkBKP72SbZXIxMPuYjtwmrlvVR4HmVyUKq532McXLNlYYi1j5VqXwNOgils-DM/s320/20230817_121801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9GgvNVE7k6pOyX2k_MzrH9x3px0ViZvKOf15m0d0kM7gg4d2a3-vox4Ms4aQVsGCuWrVyUQx1K04iJT47bcXKkJ-e3Qs5tSZgTV5190rsurNa_ch4RHKwRC5aSt12cCzUiGEACSuPmgSJq3bTTKqTwu3mRbLAIe8SQfOtwK8zzwpvhKqY-O-0Ily1qiE/s1209/20230817_122515.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9GgvNVE7k6pOyX2k_MzrH9x3px0ViZvKOf15m0d0kM7gg4d2a3-vox4Ms4aQVsGCuWrVyUQx1K04iJT47bcXKkJ-e3Qs5tSZgTV5190rsurNa_ch4RHKwRC5aSt12cCzUiGEACSuPmgSJq3bTTKqTwu3mRbLAIe8SQfOtwK8zzwpvhKqY-O-0Ily1qiE/s320/20230817_122515.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il piluccatore seriale colto con le mani nel sacco</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Zrm2aQEW26W_5KdVam4O1tyH64FDyJwejew9n_aW9ugWhna8N-b14IcMLeQ8yAsQj8Upmz-Zfw0WNSnXwqnf_nA5QpjhC-8MTNEXWILxxpsTryknQ1X8lRaCgfOFVndJIMmbRe80lJBNz0pWQm8vmlX2Qz9kEUEyMEJrLZN697bXbtKrcM_XYpd7_0E/s1209/20230817_122522.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Zrm2aQEW26W_5KdVam4O1tyH64FDyJwejew9n_aW9ugWhna8N-b14IcMLeQ8yAsQj8Upmz-Zfw0WNSnXwqnf_nA5QpjhC-8MTNEXWILxxpsTryknQ1X8lRaCgfOFVndJIMmbRe80lJBNz0pWQm8vmlX2Qz9kEUEyMEJrLZN697bXbtKrcM_XYpd7_0E/s320/20230817_122522.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i venditori di tamales e camarones. Uno indossa dei sandali in cuoio con il pelo della mucca ben lungo e visibile, come una sorta di pelliccia</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Ci spostiamo piuttosto in fretta perchè fa un caldo atroce e noi stiamo soffrendo lo sbalzo di temperatura. Ci esplode la testa, fatichiamo a respirare. Attraversiamo un fiume pulito come il Gange, con tanto di mucche in ammollo. Non mi stupirebbe affatto sapere che i gamberoni provengono da qui.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI898fMOHNq9_kXRdqBYBdxemL1vEpqvwPRMxMta4FGWC89aX9wLf4ruu-vSsDlmO3xOBS1_BGW4-UotAT57Ocg6MB4zlJbF_BSqqAVnodbFcYmztJEp5eX4uORaoaPmLISDJXzME3B1lzcJ4o28B9COVKTexEDmiPNOH9jXo7h6XuO9cSsMTzgEzsBY8/s1209/20230817_123358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI898fMOHNq9_kXRdqBYBdxemL1vEpqvwPRMxMta4FGWC89aX9wLf4ruu-vSsDlmO3xOBS1_BGW4-UotAT57Ocg6MB4zlJbF_BSqqAVnodbFcYmztJEp5eX4uORaoaPmLISDJXzME3B1lzcJ4o28B9COVKTexEDmiPNOH9jXo7h6XuO9cSsMTzgEzsBY8/s320/20230817_123358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcc6cJuzEyfqyG3kHVw94uc7VVTLH7_3QKUDEXssxZHSRp93stONngv7ncwVuBZhSUtlyCgx5rPVA2MNwg6t_mRfsOnfwKQobyvdHOOhoE6KT-hNUPzkaw00ok4DKKyhdyHVUHjWXYxboIC7HqKG01mOGJBi2tHjT6Ps_qSNANVK9-bz1FNYhgOB_IV0/s1209/20230817_123410.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcc6cJuzEyfqyG3kHVw94uc7VVTLH7_3QKUDEXssxZHSRp93stONngv7ncwVuBZhSUtlyCgx5rPVA2MNwg6t_mRfsOnfwKQobyvdHOOhoE6KT-hNUPzkaw00ok4DKKyhdyHVUHjWXYxboIC7HqKG01mOGJBi2tHjT6Ps_qSNANVK9-bz1FNYhgOB_IV0/s320/20230817_123410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihOMn3qZOflfDRLPItaHfW5PzvDEeynWeJQRLU-2lmaKBOI2eFDruY05Y7zqpeSvRTjy3pcLfvyNZ1lKN6__u6f0N2HilT0OrNqv3TKOhkJ0yTtNJ2mKPPM7iaRveSa4T32uNVkU7HLjxuQ-T1Au03HRk94dMil1qPZ4KAT70kdKqKeQk8n70xbb5vU2E/s1209/20230817_123426.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihOMn3qZOflfDRLPItaHfW5PzvDEeynWeJQRLU-2lmaKBOI2eFDruY05Y7zqpeSvRTjy3pcLfvyNZ1lKN6__u6f0N2HilT0OrNqv3TKOhkJ0yTtNJ2mKPPM7iaRveSa4T32uNVkU7HLjxuQ-T1Au03HRk94dMil1qPZ4KAT70kdKqKeQk8n70xbb5vU2E/s320/20230817_123426.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gli ultimi 20km, che pedaliamo arrancando nell'umidità rovente, ci portano ad attraversare una pianura acquitrinosa che alterna paludi piene di papere variopinte (alcune rosa... Saran mica fenicotteri?) e pascoli sconfinati. Su tutto domina un verde chiaro e brillante che si fa argenteo al sole.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwffmXoYaSJQUe1V66gkDS9o3NMZxVqcn6nqad6ggEoNyXrP2X_iOh3QZBHzbkNnJPiKHjuhyZrNeL-fArtC8wTiO_9Fqx0-Blr1ED9qShsUCbfagNKqK__XhbJj1hK2T36x5JJ3SbFi38gORvyzgyqQ_6BGUCd43RcwgbrH8j2UGn2SMuduKh4RETJI/s1209/20230817_130700.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwffmXoYaSJQUe1V66gkDS9o3NMZxVqcn6nqad6ggEoNyXrP2X_iOh3QZBHzbkNnJPiKHjuhyZrNeL-fArtC8wTiO_9Fqx0-Blr1ED9qShsUCbfagNKqK__XhbJj1hK2T36x5JJ3SbFi38gORvyzgyqQ_6BGUCd43RcwgbrH8j2UGn2SMuduKh4RETJI/s320/20230817_130700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASkP35XIj390BbkcGWXYFl3A8XnIKQru-5tbuMyln4HtsP9kKs3DBHWj6ZsZwVJr9vkWovQrQk99lquMthXNYbhJrizn9w9-ggf2nG2pmV-8afixpgQGc6nXM5VISdxMQqcjbrU6NmAGdGZdkBVXmsUaV6F45vAGBiSpu2-u1lJp6DWlSGYo-7i6WPE8/s1209/20230817_130709.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASkP35XIj390BbkcGWXYFl3A8XnIKQru-5tbuMyln4HtsP9kKs3DBHWj6ZsZwVJr9vkWovQrQk99lquMthXNYbhJrizn9w9-ggf2nG2pmV-8afixpgQGc6nXM5VISdxMQqcjbrU6NmAGdGZdkBVXmsUaV6F45vAGBiSpu2-u1lJp6DWlSGYo-7i6WPE8/s320/20230817_130709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCvyM6HITSRzAzd5dEzoMbEnvkD6Bbfm0jHz6vYIYT167hz1x6GwFi3ZceANFmfnGKzjn5PZWqHzszXNJ8mfbzTAQreR5M_QLcHgvsUYOIOz5P4ixmbc8QIdLG7AOMg3FEBL3IbV4tQgst7WKJ6PScHxGFovd3aKDZ9_vG-2szQwPlPn-5evIs1vZIi10/s1209/20230817_130719.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCvyM6HITSRzAzd5dEzoMbEnvkD6Bbfm0jHz6vYIYT167hz1x6GwFi3ZceANFmfnGKzjn5PZWqHzszXNJ8mfbzTAQreR5M_QLcHgvsUYOIOz5P4ixmbc8QIdLG7AOMg3FEBL3IbV4tQgst7WKJ6PScHxGFovd3aKDZ9_vG-2szQwPlPn-5evIs1vZIi10/s320/20230817_130719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtBF4d_ChdkN33JR3NweZ9S4M_loZSTHyFVBbROS20BuB_dRqhXeqz8UFAmy0KIR9IHG78-lvOrpCAJFdLV7Fp_VjvDFtfjC8FnwvPcVPyePRxhC4VVx4ywkEJaO1YT-9kq9t7zwPOJ1rSM_xD3ikoKMwBrRBF55C4cDFdMfXqAJpYX4ZNmb3BNG0KUlc/s320/20230817_131651.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6_8yH4LyZL5zUNs54zftXwa0zSWty7SG3hQgJUiZ49cXjpbihbsUk3qNQ-0Cxpw_Zy7iiT8l9eUTqwzXNFeDxWFauPQTXuxTbA44u9TPsBwWaCyRdAyT2DSG62PQKa-Et3bmf6bmFK_EFPCIQlYup_A9djMe3zEvuOmOkrxtrPudFHh9brMdmjIMLFM/s1209/20230817_131654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6_8yH4LyZL5zUNs54zftXwa0zSWty7SG3hQgJUiZ49cXjpbihbsUk3qNQ-0Cxpw_Zy7iiT8l9eUTqwzXNFeDxWFauPQTXuxTbA44u9TPsBwWaCyRdAyT2DSG62PQKa-Et3bmf6bmFK_EFPCIQlYup_A9djMe3zEvuOmOkrxtrPudFHh9brMdmjIMLFM/s320/20230817_131654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbQX_E4OzUgpfUbsgubAtsGz_agfRy-kQ5YRit4qnhImDqnDWhYL1aLZaK9JhN1aDlnUsm9cBpBEoVWn6Ozt_Baxf9CyY3aCJDPLYJkGNZ0jc-7JyOiDuhW37aE13PlyEQbb-Fsv_rFYWpbZ44US3_7qPzwqFpUjza1jeY0i201f2NWV3khkvDOHKBdk/s1209/20230817_131703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbQX_E4OzUgpfUbsgubAtsGz_agfRy-kQ5YRit4qnhImDqnDWhYL1aLZaK9JhN1aDlnUsm9cBpBEoVWn6Ozt_Baxf9CyY3aCJDPLYJkGNZ0jc-7JyOiDuhW37aE13PlyEQbb-Fsv_rFYWpbZ44US3_7qPzwqFpUjza1jeY0i201f2NWV3khkvDOHKBdk/s320/20230817_131703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpaV199jK1txay6I7a-Ml_ozx5Q6AnVMQ6dKjRzvbEFyZzuqQ64czCAk-S_iKJRCyEFOufWC5Hhi0AXHfo5WsysKZgyUlVBmvbgz4CWTP3eHg7UwqfgYw7DSWx_xEzZveCPiK9XWiJlL_5pEYRtopdrIq96LqDGNs9zV9hG3Ss2w7Gk2Z36TITtHLFKFU/s1209/20230817_131705.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpaV199jK1txay6I7a-Ml_ozx5Q6AnVMQ6dKjRzvbEFyZzuqQ64czCAk-S_iKJRCyEFOufWC5Hhi0AXHfo5WsysKZgyUlVBmvbgz4CWTP3eHg7UwqfgYw7DSWx_xEzZveCPiK9XWiJlL_5pEYRtopdrIq96LqDGNs9zV9hG3Ss2w7Gk2Z36TITtHLFKFU/s320/20230817_131705.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando il collasso è ormai quasi realtà, e stiamo per raggiugere le anime de li armadilli mortè che tappezzano la strada, ecco la scritta che attendevamo: Rosamorada, la nostra meta di oggi. E' prestissimo, sono le due di pomeriggio, ma non abbiamo cuore di proseguire per altri 50km fino alla prossima città. Quindi facciamo una foto al grandioso portale di accesso alla cittadina, che fa presagire tanta bellezza e...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZvQnGA37zxi0wYBTLW4INLDzNUjq3REV0S5f-9Ex7o4U9s2-hZHbHRloSH5sA2vczJ44IjN8wRistoB093j3kdhKAwWQ8usffTt2o4NDSyIl27q0_MUcBdOW2gCsVmCYfl96zPj5lEfT_x1Yp3YiGhuhZgvo1gOSUnQKoQz-RF7phoOQQJJjnTSgUY4s/s1209/20230817_134427.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZvQnGA37zxi0wYBTLW4INLDzNUjq3REV0S5f-9Ex7o4U9s2-hZHbHRloSH5sA2vczJ44IjN8wRistoB093j3kdhKAwWQ8usffTt2o4NDSyIl27q0_MUcBdOW2gCsVmCYfl96zPj5lEfT_x1Yp3YiGhuhZgvo1gOSUnQKoQz-RF7phoOQQJJjnTSgUY4s/s320/20230817_134427.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwWEE0qedgQYmocKm1NkaywNr7TRcNL4O1X3toqmjxckenETcZjzVitU_dEr1-RVWli6B7aTTTvqBcTitKWl4sXZhWzaFph6eDPxa54cu_XRxulRwtmS-DU38VyjfbaFu20ra0Tuy2cMWBu6LTpGmZ7uG4ZsOk4Luk_8sdELutFFGBvY4gKO7wrSOxa4/s1209/20230817_134443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwWEE0qedgQYmocKm1NkaywNr7TRcNL4O1X3toqmjxckenETcZjzVitU_dEr1-RVWli6B7aTTTvqBcTitKWl4sXZhWzaFph6eDPxa54cu_XRxulRwtmS-DU38VyjfbaFu20ra0Tuy2cMWBu6LTpGmZ7uG4ZsOk4Luk_8sdELutFFGBvY4gKO7wrSOxa4/s320/20230817_134443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-LK4CS03iDfeYyDq-8Pdh6Bd1ixMLtq8ZPnqm_1CcW7o7l0CpxlD8-i9yuck2yLgVlv5R4DcFUrcTg3XUgGHiO8uXW9Z048O07mKkuGwMour2oR9Ew5TYRqKSK0Z0kpKgqLYFiCS-fuKL8SBvq2_llEA03g8CBmdOspYkH8_0aqciPPyYJMKU6edI9Bw/s1209/20230817_134527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-LK4CS03iDfeYyDq-8Pdh6Bd1ixMLtq8ZPnqm_1CcW7o7l0CpxlD8-i9yuck2yLgVlv5R4DcFUrcTg3XUgGHiO8uXW9Z048O07mKkuGwMour2oR9Ew5TYRqKSK0Z0kpKgqLYFiCS-fuKL8SBvq2_llEA03g8CBmdOspYkH8_0aqciPPyYJMKU6edI9Bw/s320/20230817_134527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci troviamo catapultati nel più rurale dei paesaggi messicani della costa pacifica. Carcasse di auto arrugginite, binari senza alcuna protezione, galline che razzolano in mezzo alla strada, cani ossuti che frugano l'immondizia e tanta polvere. Il paese si sviluppa lineare sui due lati della strada che lo attraversa e alterna case fatiscenti ma abitate a case diroccate e abbandonate. Insomma, il primo impatto è quel che è.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynfE-hefLiohiR0zcFMDBKD86C0mK0eLX3VVfUUozc3ME9Og9rq82SOQg_44jaNbccYQLyOTkY7c67eMcuId-Z-HqGYv251PG6kP-9iNdC1CFPKTrYltRdlfsK3SlUz4dzm8XDIMue-1xr1gqOSThs6Ul8A1zzCbLtLghmfIyfs6gxTh5yGYzG07UqWc/s1209/20230817_134543.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynfE-hefLiohiR0zcFMDBKD86C0mK0eLX3VVfUUozc3ME9Og9rq82SOQg_44jaNbccYQLyOTkY7c67eMcuId-Z-HqGYv251PG6kP-9iNdC1CFPKTrYltRdlfsK3SlUz4dzm8XDIMue-1xr1gqOSThs6Ul8A1zzCbLtLghmfIyfs6gxTh5yGYzG07UqWc/s320/20230817_134543.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKIkbboTbVmqrS5nDxBGjSrDBbglR8rwjcUG_wVQTZxOdobwCo4jLoBe0-m4WH9uNoHEZpw_w3Ijhk92mrxVp_unSxE04uoNURbAIQuqacrbe_dhwPFbTlv8_-AQXktjAzZ7AdFPahk6KRxWGdhkblj-EoVI9epRzxYeOWFdsqvZYn-C16M9rqAo-QAPk/s1209/20230817_134618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKIkbboTbVmqrS5nDxBGjSrDBbglR8rwjcUG_wVQTZxOdobwCo4jLoBe0-m4WH9uNoHEZpw_w3Ijhk92mrxVp_unSxE04uoNURbAIQuqacrbe_dhwPFbTlv8_-AQXktjAzZ7AdFPahk6KRxWGdhkblj-EoVI9epRzxYeOWFdsqvZYn-C16M9rqAo-QAPk/s320/20230817_134618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx0CZ6MVJHPTs_06EFCo4fmSl4qHCxl-JGdR6Cu7umzDkkm6zOVIBgvEZwHQZN5_qaWGxQKnwy69Ortt5vrKQ7er5Wco6mwFlKZrPpY0cyVjvghPQ6XtXWsWCsLl_hcm2bRPzvJe1bevxL74gcAxwjO5yxnzOo914jYgXR4lJZ3DM-jKOqwQSjefyaWV8/s1209/20230817_134622.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx0CZ6MVJHPTs_06EFCo4fmSl4qHCxl-JGdR6Cu7umzDkkm6zOVIBgvEZwHQZN5_qaWGxQKnwy69Ortt5vrKQ7er5Wco6mwFlKZrPpY0cyVjvghPQ6XtXWsWCsLl_hcm2bRPzvJe1bevxL74gcAxwjO5yxnzOo914jYgXR4lJZ3DM-jKOqwQSjefyaWV8/s320/20230817_134622.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Invero anche il secondo. Arriviamo all'hotel, l'unico nell'arco di 50km prima e 50km dopo, sotto la sguardo dei local che ci fissano da sotto le verande e le tende, come nei film western quando arriva il forestiero e percorre a cavallo il paese. Dietro al bancone della "reception" c'è una coppia di ragazzi sui 18 anni: lei chica mala con unghioni di plastica, lui rapperino con completo da cestista NBA, tatuaggi ovunque, berretto con visiera cattivo. Quando dico alla tipa se hanno una camera, lei inizia a ridacchiare e lanciare occhiatine a lui, e mi dice che no, le dispiace, ma non ne ha... Si vede che mente e le viene da ridere, pure. 'Sta stronza maledetta. Con calma le dico che ci siamo sentiti ieri, e che ho chiesto di prenotare, e quando ho accennato a un pagamento anticipato per confermare la reserva, lei, stronza maledetta e malnata, è sparita, sia da Whatsapp, sia da Messanger sia da Google chat dove ci stavamo sentendo. E chissà come le rideva il buco del culo. Come ora. Che parlotta col suo ragazzo, e gli spiega dei nostri scambi; io capisco perfettamente cosa si dicono, sento che ammette di non averci più risposto per sciacquarci dalle palle. E invece no, brutta stronza maledetta malnata e meschina, siamo qui, perchè non abbiamo altra scelta. Inizio a insistere, e lei, con aria divertita, para tutti i colpi. Allora interviene Gigi, e si rivolge al ragazzo, che sembra un po' in imbarazzo di fronte alla sfacciataggine di lei. Gigi spiega che siamo italiani, non gringos! E che il prossimo albergo è lontano, e poi dai, non sarà mica pieno, dai, tutte le camere occupate? Lui si ammorbidisce, dice di essere del New Jersey (sì, certo, come mi nonna in carriola) e alla fine convince a sguardi la merdaiola a mollare il colpo. Si para il culo, indistinguibile dalla faccia, dicendo che aveva capito male, ci dà chiave e telecomando (ma non asciugamani, carta igienica e sapone -per fortuna abbiamo tutto) e tanti saluti. La voglia di tirarle un paio di sane sberle è tanta, ma la violenza dicono non sia un buon metodo educativo. Ma potrai esser razzista così?</div></div><div>Siamo troppo cotti per restarci male davvero, ma la sensazione di non essere ospiti graditi guasta un po' l'umore. Per fortuna in paese, quando usciamo a far spesa, sono tutti gentili e anche lo staff notturno ha un altro atteggiamento nei nostri confronti. Ci aiutano a spegnere il condizionatore, che non risponde più ai comandi e sta creando un microclima artico. </div><div><br /></div><div>Così si ristabilisce un equilibrio di fiducia nel prossimo che si era un poco incrinato. D'altronde questa città vive principalmente di agricoltura e pesca nelle lagune, e ha una comunità indigena (cora) che vive quasi segregata nei ranch d'entroterra. Qui non si è mai fatto molto altro, se non constatare che la terra è bassa. Anche prima dell'arrivo degli spagnoli, nel 1530, qui abitavano indigeni che han lasciato alcuni petroglifi, sottomessi al regno Hueytlanonazgo de Aztatlán. Però qualcuno sostiene che la vera culla della musica mariachi sia proprio Rosamorada, dove i nativi festeggiavano con musica e danze le loro festività.</div><div><br /></div><div>Noi, comunque, per sicurezza, oltre a chiudere la porta a chiave, la blocchiamo con una sedia. Intanto fuori il temporale imperversa per tutto il pomeriggio e la notte, con raffiche di vento, lampi e tuoni da far tremare le pareti. Sarà l'uragano tropicale che bussa alla porta?</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>18/8</div><div>Rosamorada - Escuinapa de Hidalgo</div><div>115km</div><div><br /></div><div>Sveglia presto, oggi ci attende una lunga tappa. In più il meteo non è dei migliori e il rischio di prendersi un acquazzone tropicale sulla capoccia è alto. Se non altro, stavolta, le strutture all'arrivo sono tante e non dovremmo avere problemi. Sperem. Portiamo giù dalle rampe di scale bici e bagagli (perchè sì, quando si arriva e si riparte c'è anche questa deliziosa operazione da compiere) e troviamo le strade ben fradicie. Esce con noi dall'hotel un commesso viaggiatore carico di materassi, con un'auto acchittata nel modo che usano qui per trasportare merce ingombrante.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1OA07dZvQxGnma9u1HzLdv7RYB6pv1Hyw2U36lovlJL2vhbZ04HuWCEFLNIS5f9fpOUVIAkXhHY63IUenwy1A2iLTla4tnubfb-Tp_JJUIydPVTZVoRde27x06TFYNFN0eXcQAxiNGtd35TXBEaIadXnVE9t8hXm_XOD0TT5Y9WUOLxazXpUvBDuz554/s1209/20230818_075244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1OA07dZvQxGnma9u1HzLdv7RYB6pv1Hyw2U36lovlJL2vhbZ04HuWCEFLNIS5f9fpOUVIAkXhHY63IUenwy1A2iLTla4tnubfb-Tp_JJUIydPVTZVoRde27x06TFYNFN0eXcQAxiNGtd35TXBEaIadXnVE9t8hXm_XOD0TT5Y9WUOLxazXpUvBDuz554/s320/20230818_075244.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_GUYLY5HRsfiS737peXxzQFeLeyEvthWN6ErDgyQ_qxODWIWFO8k9FefYiYcFU1UMM-hoWQnZSJgnBfjO5pUulJgFIoup7LFWFZ6s0k_mxy_YN4Ym6gnRDPcNruBq-c-DAvsgSUZXiVWgFtZJYgrbl2cuUBuBt79wquJ1G0DlkvDrJrGLWnbTYSivNY/s1209/20230818_075316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_GUYLY5HRsfiS737peXxzQFeLeyEvthWN6ErDgyQ_qxODWIWFO8k9FefYiYcFU1UMM-hoWQnZSJgnBfjO5pUulJgFIoup7LFWFZ6s0k_mxy_YN4Ym6gnRDPcNruBq-c-DAvsgSUZXiVWgFtZJYgrbl2cuUBuBt79wquJ1G0DlkvDrJrGLWnbTYSivNY/s320/20230818_075316.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il cielo resta velato e grigia la luce per tutto il giorno, ma questo ci salva dal caldo tremendo di ieri. Ora è umido e si suda anche la cresima, ma non si frigge. Salutiamo la ridente (ahah!) Rosamorada e riprendiamo la fidata 15, che anche oggi per breve tratto si tufferà in autostrada. Ma ormai siamo esperti anche di questo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho2FpeQd-aMtbLf94TU44UdOb7fqrE2HquE6N-lRzP7a8cTfKFK8Wl7lRyj7eNOC_XhnL858MzJmScdZWm2oHYS5CnCujd5A4Nx_OiKv1aaQFHVatxGryPxXpwLqhMaihCdplR5YpSOTySIEspI4rfwP_CeOJpY0af_eMCCT5p1x-D-Hz0ZadN1wfWkcY/s1209/20230818_075544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho2FpeQd-aMtbLf94TU44UdOb7fqrE2HquE6N-lRzP7a8cTfKFK8Wl7lRyj7eNOC_XhnL858MzJmScdZWm2oHYS5CnCujd5A4Nx_OiKv1aaQFHVatxGryPxXpwLqhMaihCdplR5YpSOTySIEspI4rfwP_CeOJpY0af_eMCCT5p1x-D-Hz0ZadN1wfWkcY/s320/20230818_075544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi possiamo affermare di essere tornati in pianura davvero, anche se a volte brevi rampe portano a superare le collinette che si alzano tra l'oceano e la sierra. Tutto è verdissimo e l'acqua non manca, per quanto sia per lo più stagnante e coperta di alghe e muffe. La costante di oggi sono gli scorci di giungla e le immense distese di alberi di mango, qui coltivato a piantagioni. Inoltre è il momento della raccolta: i rami sono carichi di frutti e squadroni di uomini in canotta, jeans e stivali sono al lavoro nel fango fino alle ascelle, riempiendo cassette e caricando camion. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUZBVtwBXimcXuNqvj2gdvNtPm1kh4qj5D-TZlvquq9mR67pWp-53FXapKkSncHW4k_jxloF5qWzALHmk-p9prGA4hrOETfPIzMMogzQjlcxmb99OCWo3PaUNg83T3JMbMJRthPXIYUhEtb1_pYx4DDPMpS09_OwNvnpCS4GfaIpFUFpMi72aghC9QKIU/s1209/20230818_080130(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUZBVtwBXimcXuNqvj2gdvNtPm1kh4qj5D-TZlvquq9mR67pWp-53FXapKkSncHW4k_jxloF5qWzALHmk-p9prGA4hrOETfPIzMMogzQjlcxmb99OCWo3PaUNg83T3JMbMJRthPXIYUhEtb1_pYx4DDPMpS09_OwNvnpCS4GfaIpFUFpMi72aghC9QKIU/s320/20230818_080130(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6KRu74UDnWB68hNqAVASrcV88r85DD5hFRz70of0HZDk38LslPEohlNImL0iEf7bSOhr7SZIFuHFyG4428Po_2_pbPs2pLy3lk-tAADJfg3r2VeB3SZIjXb7qeJuZiYgodtFUiWIjC0nLyirf3Q4g2Xr-NNkDZug4QW1vtezHfjplnlhQBVQjOP2Jiw/s1209/20230818_081352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6KRu74UDnWB68hNqAVASrcV88r85DD5hFRz70of0HZDk38LslPEohlNImL0iEf7bSOhr7SZIFuHFyG4428Po_2_pbPs2pLy3lk-tAADJfg3r2VeB3SZIjXb7qeJuZiYgodtFUiWIjC0nLyirf3Q4g2Xr-NNkDZug4QW1vtezHfjplnlhQBVQjOP2Jiw/s320/20230818_081352.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv-eTAl8RqRsD0v6E9yk6CkXOVcNMpINMXKqAZNGGz_Pqd_pQGJQUlnxet7WydpADl0uYfuG0GhMGOEUj2N_4Gg_Vi_volbqJXBvB9C9QaB9qtAQaw-sGnPbpxYkpSrw6M7qKswrtpp_CPngKZki_dzVvxcpsPuDKb91SOZsJEAGICiaJGFKhbqPBJ_10/s1209/20230818_083802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv-eTAl8RqRsD0v6E9yk6CkXOVcNMpINMXKqAZNGGz_Pqd_pQGJQUlnxet7WydpADl0uYfuG0GhMGOEUj2N_4Gg_Vi_volbqJXBvB9C9QaB9qtAQaw-sGnPbpxYkpSrw6M7qKswrtpp_CPngKZki_dzVvxcpsPuDKb91SOZsJEAGICiaJGFKhbqPBJ_10/s320/20230818_083802.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6rJW1J4wVZvrn2QpsOF8lSArlri-Pr3-rDWgP1BnQrN4sEhWpW87J_Cedjcm-dyiSxDcswKotKnxikyy6-g7WInYYjTKcZxE8RcI_xzCguGCTEPuk9GtWv7TiYeHEOC_K-F6r05gEopgT8j0XOJnp1qzlAMHmiGOLQIFsMmDComxtPkdFEoSxQKfWDdo/s1209/20230818_085218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6rJW1J4wVZvrn2QpsOF8lSArlri-Pr3-rDWgP1BnQrN4sEhWpW87J_Cedjcm-dyiSxDcswKotKnxikyy6-g7WInYYjTKcZxE8RcI_xzCguGCTEPuk9GtWv7TiYeHEOC_K-F6r05gEopgT8j0XOJnp1qzlAMHmiGOLQIFsMmDComxtPkdFEoSxQKfWDdo/s320/20230818_085218.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCAnJH6xsxUy_icRL5avhmkuMVTyp2CmV4lAh3XmWih7TwkbEN9V5ifH4V4BOkhabbGsoULh7Tm4B0XZGcZE-JzFDyFXETncMiyteFO100bPc4dvwDwGog69HY1BzpQL7iAg0uJtnkhRLomiIgso_luUbDPgT7ekIOiEVEp1cZB3ZrdsoqTxCK2Us5hU/s1209/20230818_085231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCAnJH6xsxUy_icRL5avhmkuMVTyp2CmV4lAh3XmWih7TwkbEN9V5ifH4V4BOkhabbGsoULh7Tm4B0XZGcZE-JzFDyFXETncMiyteFO100bPc4dvwDwGog69HY1BzpQL7iAg0uJtnkhRLomiIgso_luUbDPgT7ekIOiEVEp1cZB3ZrdsoqTxCK2Us5hU/s320/20230818_085231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I primi 50km non han paesi, ma agglomerati di qualche casa e adiacente bancarella che vende, ovviamente, mango. Ma anche camarones di laguna, fritti e secchi, che, chiusi nei sacchetti, esalano un afrore pestilenziale. Ci sono tanti edifici abbandonati che la vegetazione si sta mangiando. Vivere qui, nel fango, tra le paludi, le macerie e la strada, non deve essere facile. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXM4PtichFu9rvlHT0NfnN4SVshRjg5UVSs0hOofZ_JsBaAr2xiphz1rHTD8kS7v4xSFtzjvv2YgK2vr_gfP7tD2jJPNnjfQpIcDus9G48YUuXfeuV_R9pppQWmoYG9pXEYfrIaAqylNDMgR3KHDvzvIVt-xA-Zwu7ucw4Pyr-6lRnLG4mZU4qcHLwEFQ/s1209/20230818_091500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXM4PtichFu9rvlHT0NfnN4SVshRjg5UVSs0hOofZ_JsBaAr2xiphz1rHTD8kS7v4xSFtzjvv2YgK2vr_gfP7tD2jJPNnjfQpIcDus9G48YUuXfeuV_R9pppQWmoYG9pXEYfrIaAqylNDMgR3KHDvzvIVt-xA-Zwu7ucw4Pyr-6lRnLG4mZU4qcHLwEFQ/s320/20230818_091500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMS4FcdlXgpQ4Qagy2R4ZtVvwNuFYb1CVtH53j_18vQb3JEV6--5TAubwIJbvwvqdJiNGHFomnPfbaoCx8dKQ_Yr70FGgvxisSetfpeSugSUKtUuidfa0TlVrZZZORkQpXaDA4vRxR0KGPGg01KMjVN7R327ky12TQZpOAen3MNZ-Qm2QKgAMy3zhUcy8/s1209/20230818_092518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMS4FcdlXgpQ4Qagy2R4ZtVvwNuFYb1CVtH53j_18vQb3JEV6--5TAubwIJbvwvqdJiNGHFomnPfbaoCx8dKQ_Yr70FGgvxisSetfpeSugSUKtUuidfa0TlVrZZZORkQpXaDA4vRxR0KGPGg01KMjVN7R327ky12TQZpOAen3MNZ-Qm2QKgAMy3zhUcy8/s320/20230818_092518.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVLbxw3lrNdes6bkqATVaOJgFd25Cyn0JcCRByyqUIHePU0VilMhddgA--zrXUEPJBwyQ20Tjf3TBThLvatJIQ4t7YYPDUbyGR3kfBSb9NUyd2RJGVutdOu1qAc9jY1VYjyXWHeZj9U9mTgUU-HSzXWVIGUwlb7u8uK-Ese8pPr8VC1pdbGxpDq8PsGI/s1209/20230818_092554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVLbxw3lrNdes6bkqATVaOJgFd25Cyn0JcCRByyqUIHePU0VilMhddgA--zrXUEPJBwyQ20Tjf3TBThLvatJIQ4t7YYPDUbyGR3kfBSb9NUyd2RJGVutdOu1qAc9jY1VYjyXWHeZj9U9mTgUU-HSzXWVIGUwlb7u8uK-Ese8pPr8VC1pdbGxpDq8PsGI/s320/20230818_092554.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSh1li9ZzADmhkNj5jLMpFe1fnMY3lqHhBjiKIBBbgyE945pUvGcckNy8pK3J4jDwLqOsu3pi3mckGQ7EOH1soiudtk9ts_WE0n47JqZaxEgy_JpbPSB2GostH-jYGjW6D9erZiol5S-y5xIbVWuaacqMLBS4rnZxIkJWDhC57MQ0l_MAXzD_mTirir5k/s1209/20230818_094925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSh1li9ZzADmhkNj5jLMpFe1fnMY3lqHhBjiKIBBbgyE945pUvGcckNy8pK3J4jDwLqOsu3pi3mckGQ7EOH1soiudtk9ts_WE0n47JqZaxEgy_JpbPSB2GostH-jYGjW6D9erZiol5S-y5xIbVWuaacqMLBS4rnZxIkJWDhC57MQ0l_MAXzD_mTirir5k/s320/20230818_094925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Mentre facciamo lo slalom tra carcasse di cani putrefatti, armadilli in due dimensioni, serpenti stampati, tartarughe esplose e persino aquile investite, io soffro. Il mal di pancia stamattina mi tormenta, acuito dalla consapevolezza dei camarones in busta e dall'odore degli animali morti. Se fossi una vera artista, fotograferei queste carogne in diversi stadi di decomposizione e poi proporrei una mostra dal titolo didascalico, tipo "marcescenza" o metaforico, come "passaggi" o "metamorfosi".</div><div>A un certo punto devo fermarmi per forza, e già immaginate il motivo. Il luogo prescelto con cura, dopo 20km di ricerca, è un rustico ma elegante ristorante campestre, gremito di clienti, famiglie, nonne, nonni, nipotini, neomamme, papà e figli adolescenti. Tutti pranzano e chiacchierano. Il nostro arrivo già desta stupore: "Guarda mamma, i ciclisti!". Immaginate quando io balzo giù dalla sella, agguanto il mio rotolo di carta igienica, e quasi già spogliandomi nel tragitto corro in bagno. "Guarda mamma, i ciclisti con il cagotto!". E va be', capita. A me spesso.</div><div><br /></div><div>Restiamo nei paraggi un po', Gigi mangia qualcosa, io peregrino dal cortile al cesso per un po'. Comunque è un bel posto questa quinta campestre!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8vGOZ22C8C6UBuyBq-1KsvxjYA1D9SbuYAo37e97njPQfA0rRppmgQWMu5ZK3PtufPjHmiOEawu9BchS8v8AlkEcBSgxklRKPeLIbdNQtrl9j1AzUH0ccC6Pj1oZBfnhtMubUMaH1hLtBn4GxuOff11eEWaoK3tzkJGRyyNNCG1CkV2D0EopQH4-PbA/s1209/20230818_104029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8vGOZ22C8C6UBuyBq-1KsvxjYA1D9SbuYAo37e97njPQfA0rRppmgQWMu5ZK3PtufPjHmiOEawu9BchS8v8AlkEcBSgxklRKPeLIbdNQtrl9j1AzUH0ccC6Pj1oZBfnhtMubUMaH1hLtBn4GxuOff11eEWaoK3tzkJGRyyNNCG1CkV2D0EopQH4-PbA/s320/20230818_104029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwJyKQUCpwhBieS2t2g1sC_RcW56yDgbAcYZ9kW3PYkZRMmiLt1zwja1AS9RJuDyxqxhgulFZW0qmnHSr9U5680GUi9YQNIlNiHJPC6ggQx4XgbOlrPRIe0OxzlynFwvq7A6rUN8T0duEkYEZJ6WUeL6NN5-ZCIJ8fbO4yXKFTsg-8tMy-K85-GPrlfk/s1209/20230818_104037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwJyKQUCpwhBieS2t2g1sC_RcW56yDgbAcYZ9kW3PYkZRMmiLt1zwja1AS9RJuDyxqxhgulFZW0qmnHSr9U5680GUi9YQNIlNiHJPC6ggQx4XgbOlrPRIe0OxzlynFwvq7A6rUN8T0duEkYEZJ6WUeL6NN5-ZCIJ8fbO4yXKFTsg-8tMy-K85-GPrlfk/s320/20230818_104037.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando le fitte si placano un po' ripartiamo. In breve siamo ad Acaponeta, città di metà tappa. Il nahuatl questo toponimo significa "luogo vicino al fiume dove cresce il fagiolo impigliato nella canna". Metà della popolazione è impegnata nell'agricoltura, che resta la spina dorsale dell'economia locale. MANGO a dirlo! Qui vivevano diverse etnie indigene, sottomesse ai Totorames. Poi arrivarono gli spagnoli ma il grosso della distruzione fu messa in atto nel 1538 da un gruppo indigeno, a parziale conquista avvenuta. Noi tiriamo dritto, verso nord, e ci lasciamo così alle spalle lo stato di Nayarit, per entrare in Sinaloa (i fan, come me, della serie "narcos" qui avranno un brivido).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKvwZ5ks5XunoJ_GXOVWEG-o5stdgdhOR0linWtA6HJE8vnhm940Y8GK2lgEy3HU6Hxq1bE1guzuO8rEpm8ej-0e54omayp9AU0ekND3LWIA6y9FZtQNRSBtT2r4vTC19cQ_B21dfI9j_PK6C4jrmZN-ngdYAXW6s0Ji2G1wLRt2FKl0Dy4duEo08JTMo/s1209/20230818_110322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKvwZ5ks5XunoJ_GXOVWEG-o5stdgdhOR0linWtA6HJE8vnhm940Y8GK2lgEy3HU6Hxq1bE1guzuO8rEpm8ej-0e54omayp9AU0ekND3LWIA6y9FZtQNRSBtT2r4vTC19cQ_B21dfI9j_PK6C4jrmZN-ngdYAXW6s0Ji2G1wLRt2FKl0Dy4duEo08JTMo/s320/20230818_110322.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XosJ_ZpN7WRB19-u54_M34N3kOUjqhhvkceWSGLzEntKO0EG0QKbcWAQn7Xo46qPXYoeO1UpZ0qyax5MbHknDi0b8coyX7RjLZdXMbUhhgHGIMZBEt9Lt7eInE6khInFA3Z0IflpKDS-AJG0z3zXIcnECZTCzxhBNIOtmBEutoa8vRrs87GhzwIu1uo/s1209/20230818_114216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8XosJ_ZpN7WRB19-u54_M34N3kOUjqhhvkceWSGLzEntKO0EG0QKbcWAQn7Xo46qPXYoeO1UpZ0qyax5MbHknDi0b8coyX7RjLZdXMbUhhgHGIMZBEt9Lt7eInE6khInFA3Z0IflpKDS-AJG0z3zXIcnECZTCzxhBNIOtmBEutoa8vRrs87GhzwIu1uo/s320/20230818_114216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByA6Qg8dKlerVd91chgy4rrZk8_1UQ5sdaPH93dTOi_-fK4JyusVMhYJ6tCT3r9fKvMKsJ1Vu9n9XhFUoCc7ZJafkfgy8tIjdHlmbvu9mNXm8mMOVY1JYU6IGq-uKLD1BZ2cTJ6g2ZFc0WruUcH-slddYeIf8bKaeRjFd_MEo6s6_dbCeYaPIk_lCkWc/s1209/20230818_114230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByA6Qg8dKlerVd91chgy4rrZk8_1UQ5sdaPH93dTOi_-fK4JyusVMhYJ6tCT3r9fKvMKsJ1Vu9n9XhFUoCc7ZJafkfgy8tIjdHlmbvu9mNXm8mMOVY1JYU6IGq-uKLD1BZ2cTJ6g2ZFc0WruUcH-slddYeIf8bKaeRjFd_MEo6s6_dbCeYaPIk_lCkWc/s320/20230818_114230.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmP-Gp1qPioSNVTAofqpYSrf8_DxZn6JL3Vffx11cYM4Nl8-trx0y4EldGj0dx_jV0XD0Z0_j2zTDhEbfqSO-ivfhfgy7HY_CQ3OAF0GMlPBhSgb0GlK2ozxDJU_uX2KdZE6pGlY8z-rCz0vVU7MZ1lXm23evdnDyh4gVjokrCITcouUpk0gNnQ-FWktM/s1209/20230818_114241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmP-Gp1qPioSNVTAofqpYSrf8_DxZn6JL3Vffx11cYM4Nl8-trx0y4EldGj0dx_jV0XD0Z0_j2zTDhEbfqSO-ivfhfgy7HY_CQ3OAF0GMlPBhSgb0GlK2ozxDJU_uX2KdZE6pGlY8z-rCz0vVU7MZ1lXm23evdnDyh4gVjokrCITcouUpk0gNnQ-FWktM/s320/20230818_114241.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il paesaggio resta verdissimo e a tratti paludoso, e sa di tropicale. La linea del Cancro è qui a poche decine di kilometri!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5ggs7YoUqRd1AIH7wxIYAqihbamlA3BKe5QJQROTNXeGHzCoOxk9Qb6EZj73ekhSkcyv7wEvluDVzyyiV4obNJKJIuU-WpkEf-FLiV728R5ooLdQD541TJi5bfBCrT6XADcVzK9eErjSWory498FS5UL-96LzxGYrXgNVZ4ql1W-PYoZDXtmKD-3c1U/s1209/20230818_114300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5ggs7YoUqRd1AIH7wxIYAqihbamlA3BKe5QJQROTNXeGHzCoOxk9Qb6EZj73ekhSkcyv7wEvluDVzyyiV4obNJKJIuU-WpkEf-FLiV728R5ooLdQD541TJi5bfBCrT6XADcVzK9eErjSWory498FS5UL-96LzxGYrXgNVZ4ql1W-PYoZDXtmKD-3c1U/s320/20230818_114300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaE8oi2Zy5-AfN5thkAGAlcf7Cv47QkK_GWjPtYiFKi4LZMNmWKdBWaOVUyPecLmmGA5Gi9YwR-nEimTKHWnPYp9vKcDoH4kaIUq0cIjWqS7TxKui0htI9LXUm1anVw8UEAKj_Nv-NwBNyENiUHELf3sYAScbaPLfKfTGd_nNMeSXtgi6AXdjqK8xh0N0/s1209/20230818_121456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaE8oi2Zy5-AfN5thkAGAlcf7Cv47QkK_GWjPtYiFKi4LZMNmWKdBWaOVUyPecLmmGA5Gi9YwR-nEimTKHWnPYp9vKcDoH4kaIUq0cIjWqS7TxKui0htI9LXUm1anVw8UEAKj_Nv-NwBNyENiUHELf3sYAScbaPLfKfTGd_nNMeSXtgi6AXdjqK8xh0N0/s320/20230818_121456.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7c-vcM3OqaeJs7LiL1x1Ir27LME_SbxpiA9vQze0_0iCVKyDOm7e2UhikzAtnuo-QoskoTuhVsrBo_Gq69RqtHzFb3q40IcyXJvmyCJnFZRDQ16VvBUvb8ZoITYqXMo_dvi9IjaKVkHVzv_o0wr_ZKLIFD3XcuiHon-jQzX03H7qR_pccuFdzAc03c7Y/s1209/20230818_121501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7c-vcM3OqaeJs7LiL1x1Ir27LME_SbxpiA9vQze0_0iCVKyDOm7e2UhikzAtnuo-QoskoTuhVsrBo_Gq69RqtHzFb3q40IcyXJvmyCJnFZRDQ16VvBUvb8ZoITYqXMo_dvi9IjaKVkHVzv_o0wr_ZKLIFD3XcuiHon-jQzX03H7qR_pccuFdzAc03c7Y/s320/20230818_121501.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhiIuRng4GORnNrlzjiyHKagBq1136OZbcZTHhKPpVTDPhrwfWhgmx5ae4x5MK7sX4cp3a9NmqDsIYig8p-YnS4pBrqz6BBBZqXn7eeYPwfts3TcWFJ9bxbHwVI99Whofs0im6fy3te5h9uO-Ge0aRjJ5YZpL8GU5CBrEL9vUH4dxELFeKLr16TZByec/s1209/20230818_121640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhhiIuRng4GORnNrlzjiyHKagBq1136OZbcZTHhKPpVTDPhrwfWhgmx5ae4x5MK7sX4cp3a9NmqDsIYig8p-YnS4pBrqz6BBBZqXn7eeYPwfts3TcWFJ9bxbHwVI99Whofs0im6fy3te5h9uO-Ge0aRjJ5YZpL8GU5CBrEL9vUH4dxELFeKLr16TZByec/s320/20230818_121640.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgukVOjnvqJlpEjKyPmQCaoFRalvGlJQYvqnLbf4l02bR3E02WwwJI9FbYJxwHQkEdDAeB-MvIZpn8eNSRzecb7T3yJweNLGunjdUCivri7VtBQNI-xL-h6QRkbRlJ44WPcDcj0DloDCM4mqpSi-4Nm6BPM5BewEniR_b2UfY7mnXEAyl0YGaqss1FPq8Y/s1209/20230818_123950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgukVOjnvqJlpEjKyPmQCaoFRalvGlJQYvqnLbf4l02bR3E02WwwJI9FbYJxwHQkEdDAeB-MvIZpn8eNSRzecb7T3yJweNLGunjdUCivri7VtBQNI-xL-h6QRkbRlJ44WPcDcj0DloDCM4mqpSi-4Nm6BPM5BewEniR_b2UfY7mnXEAyl0YGaqss1FPq8Y/s320/20230818_123950.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Yf4fcARACj7THX6Ag194F5YeogS6pasqM86D5JV4S3uGLC_WrYqlxyO_yxO0rDxhKPkh5hirOsNvfezqUAZ8FKNZfkMhAlFniBhJ18g8X82TMer-tT0CAHi5YqwtxYmn57kdWMOUIL1J5ccPngqXP_Sp2FHdeFt8u5tJu6KHQEAETb_x6hVzf_Sk5kA/s1209/20230818_123952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Yf4fcARACj7THX6Ag194F5YeogS6pasqM86D5JV4S3uGLC_WrYqlxyO_yxO0rDxhKPkh5hirOsNvfezqUAZ8FKNZfkMhAlFniBhJ18g8X82TMer-tT0CAHi5YqwtxYmn57kdWMOUIL1J5ccPngqXP_Sp2FHdeFt8u5tJu6KHQEAETb_x6hVzf_Sk5kA/s320/20230818_123952.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3PhfPDUl6a8mFkGonYSMVTCGNpRg73rdJKdb5pjstmRQtmdmHC_FLpmY5mTTxDleUSnNv5bJvBlSf10AKeX7AoZgi4zmmlpUaw_XjgjZ5xsCA6jVM6SUbXlZUT9XMYLfpzrVepZY90Eqtd5pr-QzSuoFkiWpMI5HPtSXVdm3FiqZAj0_NByf1JLyO4w/s1209/20230818_124423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3PhfPDUl6a8mFkGonYSMVTCGNpRg73rdJKdb5pjstmRQtmdmHC_FLpmY5mTTxDleUSnNv5bJvBlSf10AKeX7AoZgi4zmmlpUaw_XjgjZ5xsCA6jVM6SUbXlZUT9XMYLfpzrVepZY90Eqtd5pr-QzSuoFkiWpMI5HPtSXVdm3FiqZAj0_NByf1JLyO4w/s320/20230818_124423.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente compare l'acqua, anche se non è ancora il Pacifico, ma le adiacenti lagune dove si pescano i gamberi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaNwDtDzyvWB2oa29Yo2H87lJ1ggUe96NH4-XxuStyfHi_vVz6dj0JvT4VJtHTEOsVGzGxTJUmI1cOgHswh01x4r_yySA8THv6TtqgIqpoasF1H3LwDijo2NzL3Ab_h-qZsUmd3cG-rufIB1i4PiBmkLqh5EbRkNMcDZSMrZ2otvkRRLXwbBOgsz7j_jQ/s1209/20230818_124430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaNwDtDzyvWB2oa29Yo2H87lJ1ggUe96NH4-XxuStyfHi_vVz6dj0JvT4VJtHTEOsVGzGxTJUmI1cOgHswh01x4r_yySA8THv6TtqgIqpoasF1H3LwDijo2NzL3Ab_h-qZsUmd3cG-rufIB1i4PiBmkLqh5EbRkNMcDZSMrZ2otvkRRLXwbBOgsz7j_jQ/s320/20230818_124430.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFp60w8DeOP-6LvuoB6BfP9kSKXzyvFf52hB2P6MTM1hynUJ3iRY8yflJShhyZqjBgHcynXOY8i5isfHbI9KJoK520ZyK87VDujW0xDsaxk9y_VUngiufaGvhMWIraOVF-OPCFFulNfq6CcnmZ5IfZY0HqzcErJYVhcy34iu62Q3nsBOc1fY79wK3VlM/s1209/20230818_124528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFp60w8DeOP-6LvuoB6BfP9kSKXzyvFf52hB2P6MTM1hynUJ3iRY8yflJShhyZqjBgHcynXOY8i5isfHbI9KJoK520ZyK87VDujW0xDsaxk9y_VUngiufaGvhMWIraOVF-OPCFFulNfq6CcnmZ5IfZY0HqzcErJYVhcy34iu62Q3nsBOc1fY79wK3VlM/s320/20230818_124528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFoqjrLUdzFYWFhVqarOJiyn_wqIcYhymLOh0CmjuR837r6TVS4BhsOYJ1MoMroJhJKfAMKw6EZKSDRKgGjbzXrLRZLT9N9pTDABYNiOZ0ZTQUsMY3gqXFa6dVAdZ6YmPG7yQZTYwNBM8eZDRG4RGwTzXg6c3IP4v-uu9YWepmOgwdD8ei1GN8nKZHX7g/s1209/20230818_124532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFoqjrLUdzFYWFhVqarOJiyn_wqIcYhymLOh0CmjuR837r6TVS4BhsOYJ1MoMroJhJKfAMKw6EZKSDRKgGjbzXrLRZLT9N9pTDABYNiOZ0ZTQUsMY3gqXFa6dVAdZ6YmPG7yQZTYwNBM8eZDRG4RGwTzXg6c3IP4v-uu9YWepmOgwdD8ei1GN8nKZHX7g/s320/20230818_124532.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgYlKOs6SqeO7-4AFG03wf44ZzfQz48tPzqrNOAo_bAxRRIMaycsE_l5B5sklrQMj2_VJaJGOB50a4XR5eELjEp7JzenXvFIL5HUOQ2r30ygsC0mTn7_qGm4dyQRbCyEkBQa9-ErUECJzY8cQYNHuQL9miatYXobRIeyZEIIKpLMHvppt09YXCSYPZb4/s1090/20230818_124818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="1090" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgYlKOs6SqeO7-4AFG03wf44ZzfQz48tPzqrNOAo_bAxRRIMaycsE_l5B5sklrQMj2_VJaJGOB50a4XR5eELjEp7JzenXvFIL5HUOQ2r30ygsC0mTn7_qGm4dyQRbCyEkBQa9-ErUECJzY8cQYNHuQL9miatYXobRIeyZEIIKpLMHvppt09YXCSYPZb4/s320/20230818_124818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La strada corre diritta e noi procediamo spediti. Il traffico è anche abbastanza ridotto rispetto ai giorni scorsi, quindi riusciamo a goderci la pedalata fino all'imbocco con l'autostrada, dove si affollano bancarelle di venditori di mango, fresco o secco, enchillado e non, e camarones.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQH2NrooCxkbaTgMeubOVyFzFSJOItcX0wANa42eZk4SZ5TBqvkIiqkrtr35uWyLTEtJ3udfOlbqK0zz21j5q8804h9bSfQRimcIG1uzzd4J8s4KNPCa6t6LyfhcRF1wY-GRtu2hjfCAsCeXaQ3iHA11AI3vs1YFJgaSaE0GBzlcUItQJLGZwAbpUOPrE/s1209/20230818_124821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQH2NrooCxkbaTgMeubOVyFzFSJOItcX0wANa42eZk4SZ5TBqvkIiqkrtr35uWyLTEtJ3udfOlbqK0zz21j5q8804h9bSfQRimcIG1uzzd4J8s4KNPCa6t6LyfhcRF1wY-GRtu2hjfCAsCeXaQ3iHA11AI3vs1YFJgaSaE0GBzlcUItQJLGZwAbpUOPrE/s320/20230818_124821.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-JHBGzSpqGijCKSa0yogxGS9grqn1QdSvB1JMCda7-YxeY_M_-kVIlHwezRpHtFs4hYe2hH7UywP9FXX1NXe-gE9eMWOpChcJIlI-NKioz3lx_mVfikIYl7HZk6BrdrjwJRjvMN2ksLTIAPka4VWsCBM-szXRQlESk30AGw5JfX9f_O0L5PJu9Z5gHU/s1209/20230818_132404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-JHBGzSpqGijCKSa0yogxGS9grqn1QdSvB1JMCda7-YxeY_M_-kVIlHwezRpHtFs4hYe2hH7UywP9FXX1NXe-gE9eMWOpChcJIlI-NKioz3lx_mVfikIYl7HZk6BrdrjwJRjvMN2ksLTIAPka4VWsCBM-szXRQlESk30AGw5JfX9f_O0L5PJu9Z5gHU/s320/20230818_132404.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9KnNWQqxLLgB2vHlfCncGSVhutXr-ILhhbbiqjV0YkLP8dQSmZuxyaZewzJkOUzsYKQI6AEj_ZaW42EUq1DnPTkNvPiV7cdZMJa6VO5_bas51lIY96Eryu8odjNou2YV8NnYI5i2jN9FzfUt-GfeTIzou33nQt7XTVcVfd5fVBnFTiHC0geEpV-2N6T0/s1209/20230818_133608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9KnNWQqxLLgB2vHlfCncGSVhutXr-ILhhbbiqjV0YkLP8dQSmZuxyaZewzJkOUzsYKQI6AEj_ZaW42EUq1DnPTkNvPiV7cdZMJa6VO5_bas51lIY96Eryu8odjNou2YV8NnYI5i2jN9FzfUt-GfeTIzou33nQt7XTVcVfd5fVBnFTiHC0geEpV-2N6T0/s320/20230818_133608.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7nVUhjR--PK4_D1cieLG7n2rWwZ7c2YR00VmyL4d2yO1WOd9rK03-9K0ZcibtwyKMdRN2b3HRlH_g3EAP0xkR8-DN4jvBj7-gr8dnDR-_nqYFruUUHR3kWObx5kBkveZmaEMu7Fr5vOQBgpgqZVZwBc4YXY4cE8lX515J1M-7oE0CIml-EkxfKFCm4g/s1209/20230818_135525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7nVUhjR--PK4_D1cieLG7n2rWwZ7c2YR00VmyL4d2yO1WOd9rK03-9K0ZcibtwyKMdRN2b3HRlH_g3EAP0xkR8-DN4jvBj7-gr8dnDR-_nqYFruUUHR3kWObx5kBkveZmaEMu7Fr5vOQBgpgqZVZwBc4YXY4cE8lX515J1M-7oE0CIml-EkxfKFCm4g/s320/20230818_135525.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvB0mCcJPciCQZ2QB0DNOH3B-i6NpkJXgmBlQ4v41-4LLDH4M3xZZNGK3C3SE5BeZMLci6xfig2p-ZpvMC8YSQ2WKWCNd6chnlXh75m38SX2fn5iO4e0kMlGLrV3CeuPzu_B44VTBkw8Dyo1QanJ7kB3f_uGGq11v0mqHcCP9Y2a95CxbWkfb_FExvrok/s320/20230818_140952.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1YXrIzmjK5q8jSasvtljg7bZhMH162l1M-ZRAG9HR4_GA2spuXOoDe_V29HovzjqctVXR43evwILeOPZT4gnHNG2EPWSbMVnPWWeQ7xi3nJsgtQh7zHTDhUQ_nJgctUhWTEnalhrJVmIJ0RWjxuUrobp8VMHSl2QtOcCFjh_Ys4GCzXvG9WWRYV6HZbA/s1209/20230818_151922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1YXrIzmjK5q8jSasvtljg7bZhMH162l1M-ZRAG9HR4_GA2spuXOoDe_V29HovzjqctVXR43evwILeOPZT4gnHNG2EPWSbMVnPWWeQ7xi3nJsgtQh7zHTDhUQ_nJgctUhWTEnalhrJVmIJ0RWjxuUrobp8VMHSl2QtOcCFjh_Ys4GCzXvG9WWRYV6HZbA/s320/20230818_151922.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwBSD2N_-c83TCZHX-J1nA_jv9k_YZoozogDclWdZBgO6i5CB14UxWML9RVpBfO4yTvs4XIg5SsgqLSmr_shvNdhNsE_xoxk_rH9qBGMadorSaVnfiKk3M0tLE9qxM28Ki-4dP_zWcJKsb8fDrtFMNZZJ-BVWwD_kWm6dZVFq_XxSdE84q6Au6416yzo/s1209/20230818_151936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwBSD2N_-c83TCZHX-J1nA_jv9k_YZoozogDclWdZBgO6i5CB14UxWML9RVpBfO4yTvs4XIg5SsgqLSmr_shvNdhNsE_xoxk_rH9qBGMadorSaVnfiKk3M0tLE9qxM28Ki-4dP_zWcJKsb8fDrtFMNZZJ-BVWwD_kWm6dZVFq_XxSdE84q6Au6416yzo/s320/20230818_151936.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Superati i 100km facciamo una seconda sosta in un benzinaio di lusso con tanto di sala d'attesa vip (a noi preclusa, ovviamente). Qui arrivano colectivos carichi di passeggeri che, appena sbarcati, si precipitano in bagno (a pagamento, con porte automatiche) e a comprare cibo e bevande. Mi sa che vanno a nord e il viaggio è lungo. Tanti ci salutano e ci augurano buon viaggio. Volano molti "Que padre!" che è un messicanismo per "Che figata!".</div><div><br /></div><div>Ultimo sforzo ed eccoci qua, a Escuinapa de Hidalgo, l'agognata meta di oggi. Il cartello di ingresso mi fa assai ridere: la perla camaronera. Già è buffo, ma poi camaron è l'appellativo sprezzante che ci viene rivolto ogni tanto, urlato in strada o sussurrato tra gruppi che confabulano. Indica il gamberone, cioè il turista chiaro di carnagione che si brucia al sole e diventa un gamberone. Siamo nel posto giusto, noi gamberoni, qui! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh319rOO0t0Kj5xA1ykO0WMJ7N-SDGxFFaG9CHpuUctKhHfUqivcos9LtfjnFD5naAzcr2u2VCL93qfSBbD8O-Stsh8lPG6c9zmlIihm8qFwkjTSo8zmjGRzXV64zXc6NkOZLUPaUzJoNlk55_8ZDAeToP-UD2GLMF7vGG-EwEDY5sIDqw8r-4BvbPtnxc/s1209/20230818_153048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh319rOO0t0Kj5xA1ykO0WMJ7N-SDGxFFaG9CHpuUctKhHfUqivcos9LtfjnFD5naAzcr2u2VCL93qfSBbD8O-Stsh8lPG6c9zmlIihm8qFwkjTSo8zmjGRzXV64zXc6NkOZLUPaUzJoNlk55_8ZDAeToP-UD2GLMF7vGG-EwEDY5sIDqw8r-4BvbPtnxc/s320/20230818_153048.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFAHD8In19Ku8-b0GqFFRD0dXSO-WowjsCGAqeLFVii0H_3DeAv1O-_InEvRRDL0-lXsBFaLwK8vAjHxPfQVb7KY-VCo9ffZUoNRG4OwrQuTtnEro5xMUi6uZUKIUfinVxsTKs7svhSYLIXckVqHTzbDxaGW4ePk-dRSq7Mz285LWMBNdVLVRhkBav1ek/s1209/20230818_153102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFAHD8In19Ku8-b0GqFFRD0dXSO-WowjsCGAqeLFVii0H_3DeAv1O-_InEvRRDL0-lXsBFaLwK8vAjHxPfQVb7KY-VCo9ffZUoNRG4OwrQuTtnEro5xMUi6uZUKIUfinVxsTKs7svhSYLIXckVqHTzbDxaGW4ePk-dRSq7Mz285LWMBNdVLVRhkBav1ek/s320/20230818_153102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi con l'alloggio fila tutto liscio. Il primo hotel in cui ci fermiamo, selezionato su Google, ha posto. Ci accoglie una signora tanto gentile quanto con problemi di memoria a breve termine. E' come Dori di Nemo. Pago, va a prendere il resto, ma poi, a metà strada, si dimentica cosa stia facendo, torna indietro, mi dice ora va a prendere gli asciugamani, si incammina, a metà strada si dimentica, torna, le chiedo la password del Wifi, va a prendere un quaderno, ma torna con un registro dove mi fa firmare. Ma il wifi? "Ah già, ora lo recupero!", e così via. Per avere tutto passa del buon tempo, ma poi la struttura è bella, è un ex convento francescano un po' cadente.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1EwbkVlbIp4tCGxS43dsxeN0d1TLRvO987KAiupRWrCT6n4CLXI2Nts37sK44VboNacYMkQUk3EGQRGwt3DrF2Rsyxyb1kQLnQCyFyF_BGfXsu6d794fHh3EuOM0aKcGGKbZwjsRUgBV3_Q7jaNtFeaLitzkETQCw2XYq1H6z_WwtBCmfyU-XurpcyE/s979/20230818_153914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1EwbkVlbIp4tCGxS43dsxeN0d1TLRvO987KAiupRWrCT6n4CLXI2Nts37sK44VboNacYMkQUk3EGQRGwt3DrF2Rsyxyb1kQLnQCyFyF_BGfXsu6d794fHh3EuOM0aKcGGKbZwjsRUgBV3_Q7jaNtFeaLitzkETQCw2XYq1H6z_WwtBCmfyU-XurpcyE/s320/20230818_153914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacRsNu-W8RRuXRHa1Ikxa5HYc9R95lB7Sqks7idIFOrAkWzt5LEVWvgy4lCcZBUvu0JgEaNvD5KuzWLpRC-tikY4Mw1Bor7o7iMIuYT2bHd7IL5RuVIHLa0NdJjM3QStz8tgBFn5A4ySbektT9j2hlHA281-swTYhZuxox2lv8sqLvr7xhMjKUm5W8UI/s1209/20230818_154441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacRsNu-W8RRuXRHa1Ikxa5HYc9R95lB7Sqks7idIFOrAkWzt5LEVWvgy4lCcZBUvu0JgEaNvD5KuzWLpRC-tikY4Mw1Bor7o7iMIuYT2bHd7IL5RuVIHLa0NdJjM3QStz8tgBFn5A4ySbektT9j2hlHA281-swTYhZuxox2lv8sqLvr7xhMjKUm5W8UI/s320/20230818_154441.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nel pomeriggio riceviamo un messaggio da Baja Ferries, la compagnia dei traghetti. La partenza è posticipata di 24 ore a causa dell'uragano che non consente una navigazione sicura. Mannaggia! Peccato per il giorno in meno in Baja California, ma vorrà dire che ci godremo un giorno di mare in più a Mazatlan, che deve essere proprio una bella cittadina costiera. Prenoto dunque due notti in centro a Mazatlan, dove arriveremo domani (sono 95km circa) e poi usciamo a cena. Ho deciso che son stufa di riso in bianco e gallette. Il centro di Escuinapa, che vedremo domani con il sole, ha molti edifici storici, sia coloniali sia ottocenteschi, ma molti sono diroccati e abbandonati. La piazza centrale è comunque vivace e animata di luci e bancarelle.</div><div>Noi entriamo nell'unico ristorantino vero e proprio, che non sia un ambulante con quattro sedie intorno, e ci pappiamo un'insalatona (Gigi) e i camarones fritti (io). Sono il piatto tipico della zona, e in effetti sono buonissimi!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZGE_CEDHujWtTrbjKbvvTI27is-NNCL9QfF1CxaKO6qWlFIwukEHK8l6r_ryJYo0Bi_6Z77EGN7LG5qW9C5urXbBN9Htp9_sstS6NaUeog50PUGAuHWP3t5zDEhp5kCDHADZ9LrNRqtRrm0gwvQnQwzVQ3ZzQ33wY-JBVmiU9WdEiVW0J3m2d_lgDt0U/s1209/20230818_193624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZGE_CEDHujWtTrbjKbvvTI27is-NNCL9QfF1CxaKO6qWlFIwukEHK8l6r_ryJYo0Bi_6Z77EGN7LG5qW9C5urXbBN9Htp9_sstS6NaUeog50PUGAuHWP3t5zDEhp5kCDHADZ9LrNRqtRrm0gwvQnQwzVQ3ZzQ33wY-JBVmiU9WdEiVW0J3m2d_lgDt0U/s320/20230818_193624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguILtsmR9Rti8AOkqQWb3LbzNAq4TVLT866jtcS6_uByXaAODoldzrQtO4onD9zyU1kz5jZF-w6ATAGFyyl2z7hYQshUc4ZVRLbRs0S8eB7OcWonntvpnobRRByi0QNBB2h33jwJMhpoM_e9TLplTpOP0xi-jc_Y53Z7ulcrx9MjIzw5EQABccWOAEQus/s1209/20230818_195638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguILtsmR9Rti8AOkqQWb3LbzNAq4TVLT866jtcS6_uByXaAODoldzrQtO4onD9zyU1kz5jZF-w6ATAGFyyl2z7hYQshUc4ZVRLbRs0S8eB7OcWonntvpnobRRByi0QNBB2h33jwJMhpoM_e9TLplTpOP0xi-jc_Y53Z7ulcrx9MjIzw5EQABccWOAEQus/s320/20230818_195638.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nel locale è in corso una cena tra amiche e resto affascinata dalle combinazioni di pesce fritto e cappuccino, hamburger sanguinolento e frappè al cioccolato con panna montata. Ma de gustibus...</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFJXiaAN2FA5fh65LLH6G9DXWOnFcnxptsCXxQbLFCdWJzu948WMsvxYXCGJrbtEM6NvK0c2Ii4OK54aQhAZyQUMqaQyj2Q-7Zts5F1qHUe9ViqmjUxhFfJvM5jxQsfogOtQNikdaPZH65kY3vXDN8QS6DlC-wqlk8KuHDbaq60J06ImLKiqSYxpqWwQc/s320/20230818_194639.jpg" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhks1L-ni_b245rWtZVzVuWdXvbNVfiGzQg2sc2_ObnAjuX4inQUq44fyk-MzbmULy611shbnie_uGuTXV1Q573eB9Mte-tGgMEytPzrZhUnr63dqGvZqFwU3ohUvY99WQke-NILMNaQ2rct54RRiJzDBMbesnzl4Nx1NYJPMpIoyvj4azTgiYuDmYRtP0/s1209/20230818_201211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhks1L-ni_b245rWtZVzVuWdXvbNVfiGzQg2sc2_ObnAjuX4inQUq44fyk-MzbmULy611shbnie_uGuTXV1Q573eB9Mte-tGgMEytPzrZhUnr63dqGvZqFwU3ohUvY99WQke-NILMNaQ2rct54RRiJzDBMbesnzl4Nx1NYJPMpIoyvj4azTgiYuDmYRtP0/s320/20230818_201211.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Rientriamo dopo una breve passeggiata in piazza, e, ahimè, la gomma di Gigi è a terra. E' l'occasione per cambiare anche il copertone, e montare quello orgullosamente hecho en México che Gigi mena seco da giorni. Lo Schwalbe, però, viene con noi, come riserva estrema in caso di squarcio. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXzb8A428n7ji_Gj52O-_BIE_j6X-t9hu-kvwIL-3wvbIVAlV_xupeLEGRLXPHbuv0omw4hbf3V5CazhIwJxeN6zCotzmacAuGluDQvTY0GCe6Ak2BKaFOP4_QRjHqK4VnOnUcCQneqjva-jfND6udERQIDP55_rVX4X7dt0ROH50nN2n3EusHIlIPWKk/s1209/20230818_205436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXzb8A428n7ji_Gj52O-_BIE_j6X-t9hu-kvwIL-3wvbIVAlV_xupeLEGRLXPHbuv0omw4hbf3V5CazhIwJxeN6zCotzmacAuGluDQvTY0GCe6Ak2BKaFOP4_QRjHqK4VnOnUcCQneqjva-jfND6udERQIDP55_rVX4X7dt0ROH50nN2n3EusHIlIPWKk/s320/20230818_205436.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Chiudo con una perla, anzi, una pirla. Le mia mani, oltre ad avere l'abbronzatura evidente dei guantini, sono quadrettate. I giorni scorsi, distrattamente, pensavo si trattasse del segno lasciato per la pressione, ma no! E' abbronzatura. A rete fina fina.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQvhtnQiw2LIe6jVCUD2GMBMUxdiSXhJitVAG4NYtVF0wc_pkbK1TUAxLsmF_3d1-o0K6WkCxR6DUoO-u2tR9tMin1Z2pb-_A8CAGXoBDpHbp3vvMwV42VzCjy3ZhqAPBGKacOAweS76Oh0BjSrFGDhzwxc2Ym-W0fLNsYLOP6tODpLt_lJbztWJpjH4/s1209/20230818_210017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQvhtnQiw2LIe6jVCUD2GMBMUxdiSXhJitVAG4NYtVF0wc_pkbK1TUAxLsmF_3d1-o0K6WkCxR6DUoO-u2tR9tMin1Z2pb-_A8CAGXoBDpHbp3vvMwV42VzCjy3ZhqAPBGKacOAweS76Oh0BjSrFGDhzwxc2Ym-W0fLNsYLOP6tODpLt_lJbztWJpjH4/s320/20230818_210017.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Domani arriveremo a Mazatlan, e domenica, al posto di imbarcarci, visiteremo la città e ci godremo le famose spiagge e finalmente di nuovo qualche bagnetto oceanico. Lunedì, uragano permettendo, attraverseremo il golfo per sbarcare a Pichilingue, il porto di La Paz. Chattando con lo staff di Baja Ferries ho anche scoperto che le bici si pagano eccome, a parte, contattandoli. Ho provveduto a sbrigare anche questa pratica, ora dovremmo davvero essere a posto con tutto.</div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-62567847163763505802023-08-16T07:05:00.002+02:002023-08-16T07:05:42.465+02:0053-55. Da Guadalajara a Tequila e Nayarit. Arte, blu oceanico d'agave, vulcani, mari d'ossidiana<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLI-p9qzBQT3CXvwFiEF4EOkRkdzUr2pUo3Qm0Rlxb1Qru2yOlTZYzmbKcncjkoV4zGrsxz4-i2EYjvS44aAovJzzRDlT4nap7f1WER_QmQm4YOrrklAdS4WX_OtQ6g5dlIir2yjvgUuHFxqMHZ9nlnnsOhZ6x6k86qp5fR_hfN0qVCWxxIbgSy7etchg/s1209/20230814_144344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLI-p9qzBQT3CXvwFiEF4EOkRkdzUr2pUo3Qm0Rlxb1Qru2yOlTZYzmbKcncjkoV4zGrsxz4-i2EYjvS44aAovJzzRDlT4nap7f1WER_QmQm4YOrrklAdS4WX_OtQ6g5dlIir2yjvgUuHFxqMHZ9nlnnsOhZ6x6k86qp5fR_hfN0qVCWxxIbgSy7etchg/w640-h480/20230814_144344.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg98YD8T7FKPnk19utX8XUjGTEwzTdH54Hkp6RHWNlojZ4x1sj5BcAMw1rLd0gLOMvhxg5v_uAwDnXkzF0qZ_GNm5LAs3Qb2nl1Qkugqw5uuxezynFGB35jBc4KyFNBBbLAvv6NC-dVdknoCP8H1XANReuB2QY6hE9HAnlIpwhiRHy3njZC5bldpjw_qqg/s1209/20230815_144208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVPEwL_DL3TG_oEOzw3CKSitM3Moigu1NC65qAPlhlyshB5bKCLL5DfTe02LRE0L6dPAUpZYOH2eIx2_DuDCH3K1XhexF1N8e-2rdfOJWqS-Ydr_LK0Byw_feuO6pEbRjNkZx7bdrmxzWG6H2oo18MDlh9hZrFBYEyzK-_6M_vpoXIDficJa5gz0DkWzs/w640-h480/20230813_151625.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowuzL-QG-dVArDCebEeLvVuOUg4x3aJox0Apgwpn1xf1XMT4DN8d7hSbzmXPVCvOc1UVKDM8I1ZSGTPcoWP66siG-IqeZowAYmzT8MsC9xrlI_XEXPixDGKumLWkvRWNvzjs-sqjtxdLPQh-ryW7Ysu49HodNaJfJJcoIT_yAEZNnOv0Yo7eON6q-Aj8/s1209/20230815_094423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowuzL-QG-dVArDCebEeLvVuOUg4x3aJox0Apgwpn1xf1XMT4DN8d7hSbzmXPVCvOc1UVKDM8I1ZSGTPcoWP66siG-IqeZowAYmzT8MsC9xrlI_XEXPixDGKumLWkvRWNvzjs-sqjtxdLPQh-ryW7Ysu49HodNaJfJJcoIT_yAEZNnOv0Yo7eON6q-Aj8/w640-h480/20230815_094423.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWDJOyls_ddCP44Fuim67DAnpt2R3qvz8TBDs5WLDIw2QzHOfPKQ2016oSi5QYzWtsERJbaDdSvL8DDbNF3Jw-7bTWWuU2dESZ8BUAogVeSbWlkiYkiIbDF-v95R_H-4TB3xJ9TsAkkDrDDsSllEQyFB5izd1Ytpywzo8oSfWPAfRr5ukQQS1cJmPlQ7E/s1209/20230815_144337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWDJOyls_ddCP44Fuim67DAnpt2R3qvz8TBDs5WLDIw2QzHOfPKQ2016oSi5QYzWtsERJbaDdSvL8DDbNF3Jw-7bTWWuU2dESZ8BUAogVeSbWlkiYkiIbDF-v95R_H-4TB3xJ9TsAkkDrDDsSllEQyFB5izd1Ytpywzo8oSfWPAfRr5ukQQS1cJmPlQ7E/w640-h480/20230815_144337.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>13/8<div>Guadalajara</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Per fortuna oggi non è stata una giornata come ieri, da lago Chapala (in-dal-cu). Mi sono addormentata tardissimo e altrettanto tardi ci siamo alzati, per poltrire ancora un po' e lasciare che il corpo si riprenda dalla fatica e dalla malattia. Non ci accorgiamo minimamente della piccola corsetta con 20.000 partecipanti che, alle 5 del mattino, ci passa sotto casa, per ricordare l'anniversario di fondazione del corpo dei pompieri, con atleti professionisti e non.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma non importa, oggi deve essere una piacevole giornata di relax, mentale e fisico.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cominciamo a dire che gli altopiani centro-occidentali, quelli in cui ci troviamo ora, erano troppo lontani dalle grandi civiltà maya e azteche per cadere sotto l'influenza di questi popoli, ma tra XIV e XVI i taraschi del Michoacàn diedero vita a una fiorente civiltà preispanica. Quando gli aztechi se ne accorsero e li attaccarono, furono respinti dalle lame di rame delle loro armi. A ovest del territorio tarasco si estendeva la confederazione la confederazione rivale del Chimalhuacan, costituita da quattro regni indigeni. A nord vivevano, infine, i chichimechi. Era un bel mosaico già prima che arrivassero gli spagnoli, insomma.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">L'inizio della storia di Guadalajara è segnata da una serie di traversie. Nel 1532 Nuño de Guzman, tristemente noto per la sua ferocia (che lo rese ricco e potente, ma lo portò a un rimpatrio e una condanna all'ergastolo perchè i suoi crimini di guerra erano troppo anche per Carlo V), fondò, con alcune famiglie spagnole, un primo nucleo abitato a Nochixtlan, ma l'acqua scarseggiava, il terreno era sterile e i nativi bellicosi. Nel 1533 i coloni si trasferirono a Tonalà (oggi un quartiere di Guadalajara); ma questa non piaceva a Guzman, che fece spostare l'insediamento a Tlacotan. Nel 1541 la città fa attaccata e decimata da una coalizione di tribù indigene guidate da Tenamaxtli. I superstiti trovarono a fatica un nuovo luogo per stanziarsi, ed era proprio l'attuale centro di Guadalajara. Era il 14 febbraio 1550.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La città iniziò a prosperare e nel 1559 fu proclamata capitale della Nueva Galicia (onde Jalisco); trovandosi al centro di una zona fertile e pianeggiante, ricca d'acqua e dal clima mite, divenne uno dei centri urbani più importanti del Messico coloniale, nonchè il punto di partenza delle spedizioni e delle missioni nel Nuovo Mondo, e persino nelle Filippine. Nel 1810 Manuel Hidalgo istituì qui un governo rivoluzionario, e abolì la schiavitù nel contesto della guerra di indipendenza (prima di essere catturato e giustiziato a Chihuahua). Non mancarono aspri scontri anche durante la Guerra della riforma e la rivoluzione. Nonostante tutto, il XIX secolo fu florido per Guadalajara, che crebbe in economia, società e tecnologia, fino a diventare la seconda città più grande del Messico, superando Puebla.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oggi la città è grande centro di attività commerciali, industriali e culturali, oltrechè fulcro dell'industria tecnologica avanzata e delle telecomunicazioni.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">E' anche la culla di molti degli stereotipi associati al Messico: i mariachi, il sombrero a tesa larga, la danza del cappello e i rodei sono spina dorsale della cultura popolare. Ma i tapatios non guardano solo al passato: la città offre un calendario artistico e culturale all'avanguardia, ricchissimo e influente a livello internazionale; gli chef rinnovano di continuo un panorama gastronomico già famoso e gli urbanisti trovano soluzioni per risolvere i problemi del traffico congestionato. Dunque siamo nel posto giusto: non manca nulla! </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il nostro ostello di trova in centro, quindi iniziamo semplicemente a passeggiare verso la piazza principale. L'aria è tranquilla e rilassata, si sente che è domenica mattina, e la gente passeggia per le ampie strade pedonali chiuse al traffico, mangiucchia, si gode una città che, per farla semplice, è bella e basta.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In pochi minuti ci troviamo nella piazza che ospita los dos templos, dove è in corso un comizio politico per le prossime elezioni, con gazebo, cartelloni e gente con magliette sponsorizzate. Io vengo presa per pura mexicana e mi devo districare da interviste e sondaggi; a Gigi, invece, si rivolgono direttamente in inglese, credendolo gringo 100%. Chissà come appariamo davvero agli occhi dei local.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1b4OqfWLbhXo6fEdlbTgYYE4VCKw4oQM9p0lp0NhA7nM9FrJ43GWfKryFlKAx6zWHcSZQQXTvnMcEAbsvHrK7gT2atFukKQuuqAODDkxF70TOj_hhgrYmwqywTDtBufJv0PEkAewUagmqY_VrH74tF_tWl_BQ21UJTZd6PFzw5Y2cslB8JPPt-0d43c8/s1209/20230813_111739.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1b4OqfWLbhXo6fEdlbTgYYE4VCKw4oQM9p0lp0NhA7nM9FrJ43GWfKryFlKAx6zWHcSZQQXTvnMcEAbsvHrK7gT2atFukKQuuqAODDkxF70TOj_hhgrYmwqywTDtBufJv0PEkAewUagmqY_VrH74tF_tWl_BQ21UJTZd6PFzw5Y2cslB8JPPt-0d43c8/s320/20230813_111739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYuKPLt9R0lOOr2iSOxnuzwesBDzspwFDaOQjt1xhgGjnAC1LTsluDrLR4hUNbZGmhl_1TqVfXkOSi-lEMQAvv2pXt813kgFh8EQ8BDEtBUHnOOvbKCs-rw1K0VXlkeJWZhlx_0CEnA9XWvUR8nghtbAs5TlcrwfpiEAxXFakAd4o3t1ExkScAlMfJ3Ik/s1209/20230813_111805.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYuKPLt9R0lOOr2iSOxnuzwesBDzspwFDaOQjt1xhgGjnAC1LTsluDrLR4hUNbZGmhl_1TqVfXkOSi-lEMQAvv2pXt813kgFh8EQ8BDEtBUHnOOvbKCs-rw1K0VXlkeJWZhlx_0CEnA9XWvUR8nghtbAs5TlcrwfpiEAxXFakAd4o3t1ExkScAlMfJ3Ik/s320/20230813_111805.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f5K9CRQfUQJFhw1KcWaZtI7hbLO2Bep4gQuRiv6QnFW1bc-pIFc5KVWF86WbkUTHb53akyy_tM9j9aWUNx7Crgw20pC43UKZplarD2XOVxe0_sKeW6F6rNk6uTF0ZW9WWWUQGowPKRKiUDyIZpQWuSfPv4VqXnyBYWqF7uTZKpsSwv1etWHL4Tzf30Q/s1209/20230813_111837.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2f5K9CRQfUQJFhw1KcWaZtI7hbLO2Bep4gQuRiv6QnFW1bc-pIFc5KVWF86WbkUTHb53akyy_tM9j9aWUNx7Crgw20pC43UKZplarD2XOVxe0_sKeW6F6rNk6uTF0ZW9WWWUQGowPKRKiUDyIZpQWuSfPv4VqXnyBYWqF7uTZKpsSwv1etWHL4Tzf30Q/s320/20230813_111837.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkOg1xFoQbhvnjkIHChMgNYVumV6GtEKlhZoKer4EU6lTwI3MA4kaYd7uWD-tiVBXGvPV89KexYI_u0_YT68TIFKD5tSouuurHl_P7XfQqzJuj33YOlFbDvEB4GYa1qi48VUvNKol8Sm0siP1F6zXWO93PGBpt2GOAoOVog16yG0hGL-5DxbWSSz_uZDg/s320/20230813_111939.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0duQ1bZ7UbsB4wVWMgTkmozi0LBTgXowQwE6fJQz2S0UHYhoVtPGjxihhyDfRHIJ1Oa6Pyl8f-rtYLa5Fd7UChA1N2-Vhj_0jyKXfF-vr4QeE5FScllxJPlxQASMBmX2kpG3D5a1tgWcap35DFXgkEnklm9KyeS0njG30lHl1MVWAplopzpXRvgHZz0k/s1209/20230813_112025.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0duQ1bZ7UbsB4wVWMgTkmozi0LBTgXowQwE6fJQz2S0UHYhoVtPGjxihhyDfRHIJ1Oa6Pyl8f-rtYLa5Fd7UChA1N2-Vhj_0jyKXfF-vr4QeE5FScllxJPlxQASMBmX2kpG3D5a1tgWcap35DFXgkEnklm9KyeS0njG30lHl1MVWAplopzpXRvgHZz0k/s320/20230813_112025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2QbyXovWfY4uMl5IycY3ryAVM0ILpqrUEJtaVzGv4mNuAlOhxdF80kT3sKcumIyS80M0j76xQuZCIA44tW0iBwAc9jqMYYIIe2DrAmkk_gHxvn0judy6nsm94UMKthsVoJY4_TgAH2GQSPNCjBWk_g8Ql6vQKZfct6SOxnAoCJaLwlnnGj7d9qwyvJE/s1209/20230813_112044.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2QbyXovWfY4uMl5IycY3ryAVM0ILpqrUEJtaVzGv4mNuAlOhxdF80kT3sKcumIyS80M0j76xQuZCIA44tW0iBwAc9jqMYYIIe2DrAmkk_gHxvn0judy6nsm94UMKthsVoJY4_TgAH2GQSPNCjBWk_g8Ql6vQKZfct6SOxnAoCJaLwlnnGj7d9qwyvJE/s320/20230813_112044.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94m-_J8uz66oUTCT5Jj82-uyg8a4E1uxrfxFlUCo_K_IcRy5h8wqc_yC9gKu-_wscgiNILVtqZGB-_IZiL1vE6lGirziQittzIJm3eEA-UPZqZLC0aujdD8RpovyjhYCAC9N2toZTy8zAskjvPxnoGIDJvTTYD_TrDt9lFIe0oIxyC0nsVGp-Cmuuq8M/s1209/20230813_112115.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94m-_J8uz66oUTCT5Jj82-uyg8a4E1uxrfxFlUCo_K_IcRy5h8wqc_yC9gKu-_wscgiNILVtqZGB-_IZiL1vE6lGirziQittzIJm3eEA-UPZqZLC0aujdD8RpovyjhYCAC9N2toZTy8zAskjvPxnoGIDJvTTYD_TrDt9lFIe0oIxyC0nsVGp-Cmuuq8M/s320/20230813_112115.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2-TIHWYHItSa_IDVKkFqklG_lSW3YSt9L65eMSZMqKs-0JJp2B6sMWzTe2TJTKNJ-KDfzb7zExH-80EZl4F1mPmeqyLR5QC_DH4sdFW0N3MTYZmKEBfPJg3hMGei-_jQjjO20JbZqXXXpqjpf26Kt1EOiYSNwltJTXiTwmav5EFtRrRSn2HFMPMrhD4/s1209/20230813_112146.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV2-TIHWYHItSa_IDVKkFqklG_lSW3YSt9L65eMSZMqKs-0JJp2B6sMWzTe2TJTKNJ-KDfzb7zExH-80EZl4F1mPmeqyLR5QC_DH4sdFW0N3MTYZmKEBfPJg3hMGei-_jQjjO20JbZqXXXpqjpf26Kt1EOiYSNwltJTXiTwmav5EFtRrRSn2HFMPMrhD4/s320/20230813_112146.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Mentre ci spostiamo verso la Plaza de Armas, attraversiamo un vialone che, come ci ha anticipato Angel ieri, viene chiuso al traffico a motore ogni domenica dalle 8 alle 14. Infatti è tutta una festa di bici, pattini, monopattini e skateboard. Questo sì è un grande segno di civiltà! Ci sono persino degli addetti che regolano l'attraversamento pedonale, in modo da sostituirsi ai semafori, spenti, ed evitare incidenti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi610pt9dxfcdTYKZ6KOZilV_okSdAOu8A9uZMAxyFrwoVz1Nli_hZIZvKmbznPKvJYtA96d4IXSmgtS1JJuP6vCXsXpkSqSt3IiBjpYWJ8bnhgpNdWDQHN1eUuLP-c137k94pZQ8eYfuAdvX8Pj-BSmT_ZZ6OFxYtT7W4btJVCyzvnLAcBWQ7HWhcSOd8/s1209/20230813_112811.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi610pt9dxfcdTYKZ6KOZilV_okSdAOu8A9uZMAxyFrwoVz1Nli_hZIZvKmbznPKvJYtA96d4IXSmgtS1JJuP6vCXsXpkSqSt3IiBjpYWJ8bnhgpNdWDQHN1eUuLP-c137k94pZQ8eYfuAdvX8Pj-BSmT_ZZ6OFxYtT7W4btJVCyzvnLAcBWQ7HWhcSOd8/s320/20230813_112811.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl6I_Sb7WnharmPFDtlPJ0MNEpJP5gcCvSrrDdx3hk8scPfjFp4qeFTkEe1Ost5OwbPugqYF63q7OgCgU_Coagdv9QZRPXZqfc6e8bPXZhqtClCGbXTZ_KvHHEhBeWsx0ac6O9Kjp6dqMYRhBxv9PoDALHZ8iL8hapmBW_F2YzqdwTanRaeUcNa3p_amQ/s1209/20230813_112839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl6I_Sb7WnharmPFDtlPJ0MNEpJP5gcCvSrrDdx3hk8scPfjFp4qeFTkEe1Ost5OwbPugqYF63q7OgCgU_Coagdv9QZRPXZqfc6e8bPXZhqtClCGbXTZ_KvHHEhBeWsx0ac6O9Kjp6dqMYRhBxv9PoDALHZ8iL8hapmBW_F2YzqdwTanRaeUcNa3p_amQ/s320/20230813_112839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3v-jz9EPhXzv0f3jG0DGzpNWbM3NmG55LbLT9gH0IIqrTVyqxaFoktf3MTb0f8d5bkiAx6byAwBLa8a4PsjnTStLewndpncK_JNDHl2l2gzDfIlJ2JBEi5f8NMPzvlnbHIOvzsfukS-1LJ1PY7iiictN58dn5mW1XkCNGO1DbEF4kKxTfzryo_MN0SQw/s1209/20230813_112840.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3v-jz9EPhXzv0f3jG0DGzpNWbM3NmG55LbLT9gH0IIqrTVyqxaFoktf3MTb0f8d5bkiAx6byAwBLa8a4PsjnTStLewndpncK_JNDHl2l2gzDfIlJ2JBEi5f8NMPzvlnbHIOvzsfukS-1LJ1PY7iiictN58dn5mW1XkCNGO1DbEF4kKxTfzryo_MN0SQw/s320/20230813_112840.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VYNSAKIB1GYU4MUcaN4GrFM_DxXi2oR-4gZos2457DVXbLu5FvQ8Rhgfe-NzGMuHbxMGb5J3UunBg5ofxlVrq3YSLgljtQAIwaUxtg6d12KgnF7uS1PGcvcVP9ct-KABjG48Ql3WXEeooc-yjXG-YmBZZlhWzUl7z_c91GGJpC2X_oAV-3Kq0pmJ7A4/s1209/20230813_112909.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VYNSAKIB1GYU4MUcaN4GrFM_DxXi2oR-4gZos2457DVXbLu5FvQ8Rhgfe-NzGMuHbxMGb5J3UunBg5ofxlVrq3YSLgljtQAIwaUxtg6d12KgnF7uS1PGcvcVP9ct-KABjG48Ql3WXEeooc-yjXG-YmBZZlhWzUl7z_c91GGJpC2X_oAV-3Kq0pmJ7A4/s320/20230813_112909.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtDlRYvWclKsLxlPXPfhgNzuZ_ei-Exs91_PalGjVApRS13fcKbcWcJ2WTSgK-qTlINQWWTLkrII8VGXk8kigleEkVI5oJqQIoL0PgcmQYOhzf_Fbe19gr7IpVBC4Khq9WP8wbX855j8qN5HL2ihP601hsG3il0j_A8G_CqMxxsxoS37dKWASiYOEclXo/s1209/20230813_112934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtDlRYvWclKsLxlPXPfhgNzuZ_ei-Exs91_PalGjVApRS13fcKbcWcJ2WTSgK-qTlINQWWTLkrII8VGXk8kigleEkVI5oJqQIoL0PgcmQYOhzf_Fbe19gr7IpVBC4Khq9WP8wbX855j8qN5HL2ihP601hsG3il0j_A8G_CqMxxsxoS37dKWASiYOEclXo/s320/20230813_112934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Anche i dintorni della cattedrale sono dedicati allo sport: ci sono campi da pallavolo e calcetto improvvisati ma nemmeno troppo, dove la gente si trova a giocare per trascorrere la domenica in compagnia, all'aperto, senza per forza andar lontano. Mi sembra un ottimo uso degli spazi pubblici, che vengono destinati alle persone e al loro benessere. Bravi bravi!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhJWlJNcybOeTwVSiTJE3_ldvCCUFhMEFHh3WCii4lUBrySYgFNOqTohTLe7lkdL5AB9t77mkD2oI-d490cEAveE-5dVy-ld1R5TBB-fXfOB711oOMtn8iLMHaA2Wjn-fS21tUnC3zmypPIy91ozwHzdp-58BLCJ7BLkXBZTUlWncPomnQt5XB3MJdaY/s1209/20230813_113026.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhJWlJNcybOeTwVSiTJE3_ldvCCUFhMEFHh3WCii4lUBrySYgFNOqTohTLe7lkdL5AB9t77mkD2oI-d490cEAveE-5dVy-ld1R5TBB-fXfOB711oOMtn8iLMHaA2Wjn-fS21tUnC3zmypPIy91ozwHzdp-58BLCJ7BLkXBZTUlWncPomnQt5XB3MJdaY/s320/20230813_113026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXOPBDEAvjDz6O-zL3MlHLBgZpN-4EdfR9t5zYZ3XbdWy7CmOMWfdcdb3y60q-lSw_FSTOCLG8yDZTSH5DLKbE_jCqWJPCnTmMhItbI90i9outSz0irf0CoNPLIBYO2PRCgviTmzJyULjWU4RhLYTd0mPbDG7ZduOl4IxT8taew6KGjzqfCPgKogpVJQ/s1209/20230813_113104.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXOPBDEAvjDz6O-zL3MlHLBgZpN-4EdfR9t5zYZ3XbdWy7CmOMWfdcdb3y60q-lSw_FSTOCLG8yDZTSH5DLKbE_jCqWJPCnTmMhItbI90i9outSz0irf0CoNPLIBYO2PRCgviTmzJyULjWU4RhLYTd0mPbDG7ZduOl4IxT8taew6KGjzqfCPgKogpVJQ/s320/20230813_113104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7V4UXW3J62C0SpThqV0b_dHWTW-5gVPFhtnMw5PEkf_3SaD-o69mrz5YXI-sDWFif1-z2Gjw70T-Gkl6MeU5bRS4cE6IgB4Jn3hBrDTw-m0YgWfqBzMXSmaFI6nvf6P08xlQXYPIkxPBkibVRl1pbJ1LWI9l4utJHRj8tC_gG1A4Hdk6k3ZuMAydO-tA/s1209/20230813_113129.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7V4UXW3J62C0SpThqV0b_dHWTW-5gVPFhtnMw5PEkf_3SaD-o69mrz5YXI-sDWFif1-z2Gjw70T-Gkl6MeU5bRS4cE6IgB4Jn3hBrDTw-m0YgWfqBzMXSmaFI6nvf6P08xlQXYPIkxPBkibVRl1pbJ1LWI9l4utJHRj8tC_gG1A4Hdk6k3ZuMAydO-tA/s320/20230813_113129.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">monumento contro il femminicidio</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Nelle piazze intorno alla cattedrale avvengono talmente tante cose che quasi non ci si accorge della monumentale chiesa, il simbolo della città. Le torri in stile neogotico, che sostituiscono quelle originali, crollate nel 1818 per un terremoto, catturano la luce vivida del sole e la restituiscono in una risata cristallina di riflessi. Questo tempio,, iniziato nel 1561, è antico quanto la città stessa, motivo per cui gli stili architettonici si sono mescolati, lasciando tracce di barocco, churrigueresco e neoclassico.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYgZITzxHu_qBFL3S-VgC707hxlA5SM-xjvzCH8byIRfkDt1BsxBPavWgAzMuSK3PXACaT8HPAg4U-XS3UZZPYQg2ZuQznPY0PXTJV9ISzyTOfK-y0mQE-KO-LJoqPLgpidusSfAxGQlFUMQ8pC8b7p0ztBxXCNEgYAL5moPdno5AITPeqptwX2hyMhA/s1209/20230813_113244.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYgZITzxHu_qBFL3S-VgC707hxlA5SM-xjvzCH8byIRfkDt1BsxBPavWgAzMuSK3PXACaT8HPAg4U-XS3UZZPYQg2ZuQznPY0PXTJV9ISzyTOfK-y0mQE-KO-LJoqPLgpidusSfAxGQlFUMQ8pC8b7p0ztBxXCNEgYAL5moPdno5AITPeqptwX2hyMhA/s320/20230813_113244.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di muovere un ulteriore passo, però, dobbiamo nutrirci. Ci concediamo il lusso di far colazione in uno dei locali con terrazza che affacciano sulla piazza. Io devo, ahimè, "limitarmi" a un tè e un pan dulce con granella di noci. Gigi invece si sbizzarrisce con un cappuccino "italiano" (sic) e un piattone di huevos revueltos, fagioli, formaggio e tortillas. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6SQvrJNScGSdIzgtjeLsGwA_jJmSqMo3XFwE_l8aCStNBmTk3y16fKvkgKEjIEg_diTfi92ZYrDlGOl0QpEIRZGh6TcGb8m1TinX_avQoZ8xJ8vIGw_gxLMIKZcorbaouimSlOmiOqUJi7FoFj-DoHP7h2c-1y2C5hFhbM7-uQ6hvelHi50817KBZWnM/s1209/20230813_115904.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6SQvrJNScGSdIzgtjeLsGwA_jJmSqMo3XFwE_l8aCStNBmTk3y16fKvkgKEjIEg_diTfi92ZYrDlGOl0QpEIRZGh6TcGb8m1TinX_avQoZ8xJ8vIGw_gxLMIKZcorbaouimSlOmiOqUJi7FoFj-DoHP7h2c-1y2C5hFhbM7-uQ6hvelHi50817KBZWnM/s320/20230813_115904.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4kLYmy3Kn8zPEbPyd4d2S0w4FRfSimMky4OprFroho-xuZEvdeDW89Dvrkbbb49ea_RtOfpicCg_q3SpzQ9EsxVru-71JttbFcha3NuiTqszewoMcQSlo4ivA21HtGFiAbG6L5goKRkENZUxBP4P7KZMvoe854Se63gowyoT9tWL0wBE_8DUjchGS3o/s1209/20230813_115959.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4kLYmy3Kn8zPEbPyd4d2S0w4FRfSimMky4OprFroho-xuZEvdeDW89Dvrkbbb49ea_RtOfpicCg_q3SpzQ9EsxVru-71JttbFcha3NuiTqszewoMcQSlo4ivA21HtGFiAbG6L5goKRkENZUxBP4P7KZMvoe854Se63gowyoT9tWL0wBE_8DUjchGS3o/s320/20230813_115959.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo questa necessaria sosta, prima di entrare nella cattedrale, ci dirigiamo verso il Palazzo del Governo, che è adiacente e preceduto dalla verdissima Plaza Guadalajara.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseN6ffCjphU7VuXoiskhFoxUNpa61pDhbhoy9JHCrtWEkw7i3zNXgZ11rJGADQ2ZGyJvH7olrJeXOKVEvJqWidu3v3YWbbGyubD_1ZlgklxH5qkvlRFiJowJri4rlfkCNgWGXJUqzsbjv9tHfLbh0AxAYu1KAsPK8qj49Wd_sqRH621JlCZ6yhaFKc_M/s1209/20230813_122443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseN6ffCjphU7VuXoiskhFoxUNpa61pDhbhoy9JHCrtWEkw7i3zNXgZ11rJGADQ2ZGyJvH7olrJeXOKVEvJqWidu3v3YWbbGyubD_1ZlgklxH5qkvlRFiJowJri4rlfkCNgWGXJUqzsbjv9tHfLbh0AxAYu1KAsPK8qj49Wd_sqRH621JlCZ6yhaFKc_M/s320/20230813_122443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MnA-n1T4osmvdSfGh7BhKnbzvsWpVZXXfxbE3Q3qr20cbr4-9kGtn2Ok-2asrS6RjlCpzNfSn0foRq2izyTkFDgV4tELESf2dDg1Hbb2bAiH4zKYs8GYBbPx4MaPCXbDqgcgElKqxys29v6qmUvKhdZnef-7Yzv_rBWp0Uas4u0vlZZmu7Z2MUCl9jE/s1209/20230813_122635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MnA-n1T4osmvdSfGh7BhKnbzvsWpVZXXfxbE3Q3qr20cbr4-9kGtn2Ok-2asrS6RjlCpzNfSn0foRq2izyTkFDgV4tELESf2dDg1Hbb2bAiH4zKYs8GYBbPx4MaPCXbDqgcgElKqxys29v6qmUvKhdZnef-7Yzv_rBWp0Uas4u0vlZZmu7Z2MUCl9jE/s320/20230813_122635.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABeVuEItQM8ShG4Q66dJ2l0R7tlModE1jhpASl0dGpRvEOMwWqvODe4VJYEOZ7u81HzTaN8SjMiKZ3WvrSdgk-ltWLJXhu-bbXtMgbyYPcxRBYuBicuSDI1wRSG6lHIW3agyv3HELuZcH7FmmSfA0sCGBwpi2saY4nGqNWn3OexdMCp0qSARs_vqQgaw/s1209/20230813_122752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABeVuEItQM8ShG4Q66dJ2l0R7tlModE1jhpASl0dGpRvEOMwWqvODe4VJYEOZ7u81HzTaN8SjMiKZ3WvrSdgk-ltWLJXhu-bbXtMgbyYPcxRBYuBicuSDI1wRSG6lHIW3agyv3HELuZcH7FmmSfA0sCGBwpi2saY4nGqNWn3OexdMCp0qSARs_vqQgaw/s320/20230813_122752.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF8PVqkBpZjB4IyZf1FqdAM2bbnIhsb38RXB9aeem7HE2VLMvYymcsqSaSZcBe7TJ_r4RQcFfiRsrpEZS7vQOFb-disxEP6PoAAxL5JZz3IvY0cx4UzGBVZsOQ394XAzgMYrB3UBPNowWFsWV1hRL5CTV2vNMwh8Nj-55AVI4ndHzwVEzI56XDKTm_1Fk/s1209/20230813_123006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF8PVqkBpZjB4IyZf1FqdAM2bbnIhsb38RXB9aeem7HE2VLMvYymcsqSaSZcBe7TJ_r4RQcFfiRsrpEZS7vQOFb-disxEP6PoAAxL5JZz3IvY0cx4UzGBVZsOQ394XAzgMYrB3UBPNowWFsWV1hRL5CTV2vNMwh8Nj-55AVI4ndHzwVEzI56XDKTm_1Fk/s320/20230813_123006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjh0yjUOuUH8Qa8R5BXbvnU7BN1aIlF-Kfm488oLo7te2vpws3EYovf3uHko48PBgbEqjXxQNbCaN3Bb8nuWCopMoLw3za2BCRU9i59h44as7QwYFzbRKifuHr6uxHKepvlDYHGTTmT8f85_p5akjZaM4Z62UnYbVnIStYQ660mv_VnQRmGNBqMA1NzNc/s1209/20230813_123038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjh0yjUOuUH8Qa8R5BXbvnU7BN1aIlF-Kfm488oLo7te2vpws3EYovf3uHko48PBgbEqjXxQNbCaN3Bb8nuWCopMoLw3za2BCRU9i59h44as7QwYFzbRKifuHr6uxHKepvlDYHGTTmT8f85_p5akjZaM4Z62UnYbVnIStYQ660mv_VnQRmGNBqMA1NzNc/s320/20230813_123038.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Questo edificio, che ospita gli uffici governativi dello stato di Jalisco, fu ultimato nel 1774 ed è, già di per sè, un capolavoro. Ma cela altri tesori, tra cui due grandiosi murales di Orozco, artista locale di fama mondiale. La prima opera, di 400mq, rappresenta il rivoluzionario Hidalgo che guida, con una fiaccola, le masse in lotta contro i totalitarismi del fascismo e del comunismo. L'opera è del 1937. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyWBFiP7py5pCVKEQGmNEzwWG0QPn3tC-6tiF4l6oWkZIydR0NAHwLNoUyecOpCYu9x7JKPZsFrvOZU4NE4YuenZ1zJuob_gpsUhu1MQgoPoFzZoqG9tJlHuP1_Unfp1qI-IoV3b6zzJ-m3aSLbkIDUGJVy7wZ-pGXG92dPieCu9y2WN_khKtVZX8_ODQ/s1209/20230813_123419.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyWBFiP7py5pCVKEQGmNEzwWG0QPn3tC-6tiF4l6oWkZIydR0NAHwLNoUyecOpCYu9x7JKPZsFrvOZU4NE4YuenZ1zJuob_gpsUhu1MQgoPoFzZoqG9tJlHuP1_Unfp1qI-IoV3b6zzJ-m3aSLbkIDUGJVy7wZ-pGXG92dPieCu9y2WN_khKtVZX8_ODQ/s320/20230813_123419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dQ57qF887VC38pDISwLefcPLO5pbdDP8u7eCNZMkLQ6kgCDi0jwJEmkRd6R-xCiyFjxHcGXyID9fNYot5ujpO5Wi2R_0jcuIqSRaRJW9FPihhLb6_VVSxkmNN1QxVF4V5NeMOJytHWUTXzZNtkzk6_N2buSUW88rYyMoWtV4uZt07QBsbvEq4mZKQrY/s1209/20230813_123536.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dQ57qF887VC38pDISwLefcPLO5pbdDP8u7eCNZMkLQ6kgCDi0jwJEmkRd6R-xCiyFjxHcGXyID9fNYot5ujpO5Wi2R_0jcuIqSRaRJW9FPihhLb6_VVSxkmNN1QxVF4V5NeMOJytHWUTXzZNtkzk6_N2buSUW88rYyMoWtV4uZt07QBsbvEq4mZKQrY/s320/20230813_123536.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oHrbizRpbl17BNsRxUFTfryR2u3Q6XB0WB0Gcmq-ive3Ne2pxqxyiZJLkxFF4taYZEvWakZHEpzCJSe3kLrwkmQMi6EGC9hQ_Aw9RmmiZXsXgzkG_zCh8AbnEcXLRBL4iTprHRU91YRvPQfyaV9ngtBNKXPY-YfnqPTHnpiEE_6QFYPW31mNwiwCzxY/s979/20230813_123620.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oHrbizRpbl17BNsRxUFTfryR2u3Q6XB0WB0Gcmq-ive3Ne2pxqxyiZJLkxFF4taYZEvWakZHEpzCJSe3kLrwkmQMi6EGC9hQ_Aw9RmmiZXsXgzkG_zCh8AbnEcXLRBL4iTprHRU91YRvPQfyaV9ngtBNKXPY-YfnqPTHnpiEE_6QFYPW31mNwiwCzxY/s320/20230813_123620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4B-qJp7DHHCC4n2fQLRKpcH7ejdW7UWKVNhOlWnBRzGYwGod4lu-07W2xX5V3W6K-PZEFT18hM2zT9zJQ8r0DcwsQeP4SsTNUXvYpFYSsvrlxw_cpy83SI76wuWtgv0kmxSQXG-3g-Ewh7N799bU3w7Fj65S4ZXLcASxq_4cA7KIPp2MSxi6mvhfrAno/s1209/20230813_123648.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4B-qJp7DHHCC4n2fQLRKpcH7ejdW7UWKVNhOlWnBRzGYwGod4lu-07W2xX5V3W6K-PZEFT18hM2zT9zJQ8r0DcwsQeP4SsTNUXvYpFYSsvrlxw_cpy83SI76wuWtgv0kmxSQXG-3g-Ewh7N799bU3w7Fj65S4ZXLcASxq_4cA7KIPp2MSxi6mvhfrAno/s320/20230813_123648.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6cNpOKgGUhuUyZJwZWVfOXdMq5rcnZexMmZjHILgIia_Vvq5ORaEBLJI7mOFUCpq-39cC8mvfvjwFamXp56uR3NxXeBiLO5y4VpNvn6B05aaZhyOWBS0e2hTo8Cy3t1Nb72jl6Po0Qa-prJdFW1NdYrj_bZ9bKRh_aXKu5MzzlqvCX5TCiVlYHRZv1Q/s979/20230813_123719.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6cNpOKgGUhuUyZJwZWVfOXdMq5rcnZexMmZjHILgIia_Vvq5ORaEBLJI7mOFUCpq-39cC8mvfvjwFamXp56uR3NxXeBiLO5y4VpNvn6B05aaZhyOWBS0e2hTo8Cy3t1Nb72jl6Po0Qa-prJdFW1NdYrj_bZ9bKRh_aXKu5MzzlqvCX5TCiVlYHRZv1Q/s320/20230813_123719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPyE1cQq4X1NjIclUEVtqV8wFx5cAHdLNfOwkEDjGOMvY-VVZHqHTepKo01onYaLCXpUgXigK96qJmecdXDkMOo8sEFitt_bh5Q9IJU16sosrVO3oltdPDtppJtIZPIXbv3Ku8F0Hv1IFanF0dVV3Piv4DyBczhvruviNuy7_YZg3FgC_rZ7Eh3NeFaEI/s1209/20230813_123746.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPyE1cQq4X1NjIclUEVtqV8wFx5cAHdLNfOwkEDjGOMvY-VVZHqHTepKo01onYaLCXpUgXigK96qJmecdXDkMOo8sEFitt_bh5Q9IJU16sosrVO3oltdPDtppJtIZPIXbv3Ku8F0Hv1IFanF0dVV3Piv4DyBczhvruviNuy7_YZg3FgC_rZ7Eh3NeFaEI/s320/20230813_123746.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-hqeAJRGv91079tO4s-LRftuF5QvrNopClHGpnd0U054YRuIX_1zvgff3-DQkLS55m37R5dVMsTN6PLMCNqPs4k0O0cHpxlJxB8WfycUwOda2VJ2JlWQJGFZGW385hg3E-eNbMumAIHxb1GsgZ-XvU3YtcIw7aktWUFYwFBPL_ojkISodWmdSB3bGzo/s1209/20230813_123919.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-hqeAJRGv91079tO4s-LRftuF5QvrNopClHGpnd0U054YRuIX_1zvgff3-DQkLS55m37R5dVMsTN6PLMCNqPs4k0O0cHpxlJxB8WfycUwOda2VJ2JlWQJGFZGW385hg3E-eNbMumAIHxb1GsgZ-XvU3YtcIw7aktWUFYwFBPL_ojkISodWmdSB3bGzo/s320/20230813_123919.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn0MaLx3pc_OfCXdvEPOCYJQWKNdp5o80jp9aqURkWVUw7o4kVK0AkboK1UuyDrFap-cEuxL47Wxj0Hwt6ViORw_VftXp9sJppOMbLS_eRVcImWOQRxGDWAcmuRmLHCoQa0KouYZHOk3EuWKMByx9bTWwGg28vneEqvCLBnr4buY1cC6yAsYJupwU4LAU/s1209/20230813_123946.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn0MaLx3pc_OfCXdvEPOCYJQWKNdp5o80jp9aqURkWVUw7o4kVK0AkboK1UuyDrFap-cEuxL47Wxj0Hwt6ViORw_VftXp9sJppOMbLS_eRVcImWOQRxGDWAcmuRmLHCoQa0KouYZHOk3EuWKMByx9bTWwGg28vneEqvCLBnr4buY1cC6yAsYJupwU4LAU/s320/20230813_123946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDrSeKB88ANWDTp4-8daJYZDvy5EYuqVORPXlxH1-15fm6BfOwkpBXkIhKuC1cfEa9feeteb0S58Rx9Ktgari3299yBKWBJ-fZcz6gNAO10BKbJDIEkci8UH5zu4VHkY5CMpbusTJP5yvED9deSGsE72YmRj5ui5l26cP1BeG4SzVkzqLhM-AzGZMP8I/s1209/20230813_123955.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyDrSeKB88ANWDTp4-8daJYZDvy5EYuqVORPXlxH1-15fm6BfOwkpBXkIhKuC1cfEa9feeteb0S58Rx9Ktgari3299yBKWBJ-fZcz6gNAO10BKbJDIEkci8UH5zu4VHkY5CMpbusTJP5yvED9deSGsE72YmRj5ui5l26cP1BeG4SzVkzqLhM-AzGZMP8I/s320/20230813_123955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il secondo murales è nella antica sede del parlamento (congreso), e raffigura Hidalgo, Juarez e altri grandi della storia messicana. Girugliamo volentieri in tutto il palazzo, il cui ingresso è, per altro, gratuito. Il silenzio e la frescura delle mura spesse sono un balsamo. Ci sono anche un museo multimediale dedicato alla storia del Jalisco e della sua capitale, e una mostra fotografica di scatti realizzati da bambini e adolescenti: i migliori saranno selezionati per trasformarsi in francobollo commemorativo. "Uno sguardo giovane su Guadalajara". Che figata di iniziativa!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWp1pDHRbTc2nf1WwfLG5ZLWL2kLTZed3RZOwssZ01x4rMlMen8g7p60hEw8gaV4_TY3UVB3uIZya_WN9chZ7GMFDZYyZWaTu0dnUNL2tw2PgpcqZdWD4H6XP3K3EFYP7mym_9mevq7G-Mvi-AjKj9ds7rf0EH48gKxwYdVCFPwtwVjuUmT6yhknryYxQ/s979/20230813_124057.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWp1pDHRbTc2nf1WwfLG5ZLWL2kLTZed3RZOwssZ01x4rMlMen8g7p60hEw8gaV4_TY3UVB3uIZya_WN9chZ7GMFDZYyZWaTu0dnUNL2tw2PgpcqZdWD4H6XP3K3EFYP7mym_9mevq7G-Mvi-AjKj9ds7rf0EH48gKxwYdVCFPwtwVjuUmT6yhknryYxQ/s320/20230813_124057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6I0jAlPpl6cVmnE6hehroyXUo67QnQlQj1tW7K0hDCQ18TZAdcyoP6QF2kVoNs3SbhuryqVK3aeJeB-r4o5K75trhqqkqCilpnpDLK_so9NkSHz-Z1J9evL3wKHoOlQci0_Oy9n6TUi-FUn73AksSobptQwTxoddNOgnFCQN5-1kgKijMmK8jGvoWLAU/s979/20230813_124104.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6I0jAlPpl6cVmnE6hehroyXUo67QnQlQj1tW7K0hDCQ18TZAdcyoP6QF2kVoNs3SbhuryqVK3aeJeB-r4o5K75trhqqkqCilpnpDLK_so9NkSHz-Z1J9evL3wKHoOlQci0_Oy9n6TUi-FUn73AksSobptQwTxoddNOgnFCQN5-1kgKijMmK8jGvoWLAU/s320/20230813_124104.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-tYDO_Satiu-OwAiPfnIxiosc2aj2wcvxJjn_LOgtiyOYKcplmmykVBdbNYzCt5p_oC6yryN7ToLebn_oLcrHov9lGjGPLbsIsV_WfS8hRrpj0Ln4nf9q87YWaxT_rvcEiK5A413UxO77nJo4WYjb7yLo3QIiNEpSkJoMT8zyeUuYDfwKDQDP9ZsdpE/s1209/20230813_124113.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-tYDO_Satiu-OwAiPfnIxiosc2aj2wcvxJjn_LOgtiyOYKcplmmykVBdbNYzCt5p_oC6yryN7ToLebn_oLcrHov9lGjGPLbsIsV_WfS8hRrpj0Ln4nf9q87YWaxT_rvcEiK5A413UxO77nJo4WYjb7yLo3QIiNEpSkJoMT8zyeUuYDfwKDQDP9ZsdpE/s320/20230813_124113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXhXzUzMeot-Ct7y_UGegOEPUEhR-vTejxNuoYg9vIpqnM4T-2WwtMKAkY32aCKcYrOBs2zZjpoxga__NHOSPW7__k-_ueplvHF2h7JdNW7EyR8MAzaCYKKpuLHCV8fP7Nlya2uMruhVIJ-PFf9CLayvrhM9ysQj7uMWD_wYT45zYnAnj3rhbV0huyks/s1209/20230813_124231.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXhXzUzMeot-Ct7y_UGegOEPUEhR-vTejxNuoYg9vIpqnM4T-2WwtMKAkY32aCKcYrOBs2zZjpoxga__NHOSPW7__k-_ueplvHF2h7JdNW7EyR8MAzaCYKKpuLHCV8fP7Nlya2uMruhVIJ-PFf9CLayvrhM9ysQj7uMWD_wYT45zYnAnj3rhbV0huyks/s320/20230813_124231.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxYSmyE6uMHVqE47uKzBx_qnrxEUsxFrjZM27Nu46Dsw8IHxn9Q8SLW8rpwiQ2FFowvtuX7RejIjhoLu4iMBw8R_4Ork9ndTx4z7S99MicPSAMb2FaliC5kamR_4EdUa7o3eZkIxM38qDbbrwWI80qMWuvETu8xW1v9gACfn5Cqu-bZbiKQpM1yp2_BE/s1209/20230813_124243.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxYSmyE6uMHVqE47uKzBx_qnrxEUsxFrjZM27Nu46Dsw8IHxn9Q8SLW8rpwiQ2FFowvtuX7RejIjhoLu4iMBw8R_4Ork9ndTx4z7S99MicPSAMb2FaliC5kamR_4EdUa7o3eZkIxM38qDbbrwWI80qMWuvETu8xW1v9gACfn5Cqu-bZbiKQpM1yp2_BE/s320/20230813_124243.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJd9oH4B-WU5qGeNViwRkyvM1V5bGXHjDesN9qhfWbPzeYKnUOEPn_iynBDXa8dhDFqsf_O8BvO30VZZe8yLJdoUX9VsiBLo6M3wbzazVofphMFaiyfraxeaDwx9cxBIh9_zTqWiLcU9UnEPX-JmlJShLhakF4Rx5fDjKOhQRFLQXw3iR8ryALtQMLfQ/s1209/20230813_124522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJd9oH4B-WU5qGeNViwRkyvM1V5bGXHjDesN9qhfWbPzeYKnUOEPn_iynBDXa8dhDFqsf_O8BvO30VZZe8yLJdoUX9VsiBLo6M3wbzazVofphMFaiyfraxeaDwx9cxBIh9_zTqWiLcU9UnEPX-JmlJShLhakF4Rx5fDjKOhQRFLQXw3iR8ryALtQMLfQ/s320/20230813_124522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh39vS_X9VHJveU8Wjfws_4vUO97gCzSO2X6we2ON-NCUQX40yux3vFgAGt6y8p0vdnKBDSx4kTvax53DVdPyZ1FkEs5_0RyR2gzw3eCenHTeA5C5GH1Dv5_vZmkqdz46zT2mt_yhq6-Tx-4ViA4C_yP3moBOVYg0Lb1IleVuA6vQnz3NfjZz04LUhrzU/s1209/20230813_124539.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh39vS_X9VHJveU8Wjfws_4vUO97gCzSO2X6we2ON-NCUQX40yux3vFgAGt6y8p0vdnKBDSx4kTvax53DVdPyZ1FkEs5_0RyR2gzw3eCenHTeA5C5GH1Dv5_vZmkqdz46zT2mt_yhq6-Tx-4ViA4C_yP3moBOVYg0Lb1IleVuA6vQnz3NfjZz04LUhrzU/s320/20230813_124539.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA6f6g4tAvmNkW-9P_yYuyTXDdwiRvDnb6o36mSZXwIOLjJl6L6ay9SlGmbn3YcinQgJq6BhdMjwB5kVsJAynVy7cOy1hjo3tT6O5gRTLS9E3CKX3QWMzSo5O08vibHf1NrgH550sIJ8b8J31WKUf9nti5MlW1Dj96Y1h70GP-XydHV4KAQ5TEIa5F14Q/s1209/20230813_125316.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA6f6g4tAvmNkW-9P_yYuyTXDdwiRvDnb6o36mSZXwIOLjJl6L6ay9SlGmbn3YcinQgJq6BhdMjwB5kVsJAynVy7cOy1hjo3tT6O5gRTLS9E3CKX3QWMzSo5O08vibHf1NrgH550sIJ8b8J31WKUf9nti5MlW1Dj96Y1h70GP-XydHV4KAQ5TEIa5F14Q/s320/20230813_125316.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn5ac39HQ3nc5O5-m-mvrKly9gr_-aM5UZK49RpfZ6vuH4_i_F6LO7A35KFRHmB1qM8y5SSQUVKI6_MptgFF4n912QkhkAZJagmT0IUbQefcfF_O6I9Us-YUoTlLaAZ3G9eYQTn5J_KwTycMOyYFxM0MSnn4nSwe2aeSn0xHnauEBHFzK3hJ4VvLAHpLM/s1209/20230813_125719.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn5ac39HQ3nc5O5-m-mvrKly9gr_-aM5UZK49RpfZ6vuH4_i_F6LO7A35KFRHmB1qM8y5SSQUVKI6_MptgFF4n912QkhkAZJagmT0IUbQefcfF_O6I9Us-YUoTlLaAZ3G9eYQTn5J_KwTycMOyYFxM0MSnn4nSwe2aeSn0xHnauEBHFzK3hJ4VvLAHpLM/s320/20230813_125719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sbuchiamo poi in Plaza de la Liberacion, creata negli anni '80 nell'ambito di un processo di rinnovamento urbano con la demolizione di due interi isolati di edifici coloniali. Qui si affacciano il Palacio legislativo, attuale sede del parlamento del Jalisco, e il Palacio de Justicia, cinquecentesco, un gran numero di colonnine dei lustrascarpe e il Teatro Degollado, neoclassico, costruito nella seconda metà del XIX secolo e sede della Filarmonica di Guadalajara. Anche qui è in corso un comizio politico simile a quello visto poc'anzi. Le elezioni si avvicinano!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlS_VKqH2fm36om3BgykMgqhoDq0OA54OOZk0rpXbVCOoV3wsKIw8frba_tFzY4iJhg8hqI3d3oJu7O0Y3v_5OrtoaXKlKP9HB5Ui_TpW_j3uXbY-KQmgIFwr2aKylMvM-oyLtKnq4NwUbJ_sZOAbBa7DHjBXjAsDBLTc-tVmVjlZfMbYEd9MnA9VQyiQ/s1209/20230813_125904.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlS_VKqH2fm36om3BgykMgqhoDq0OA54OOZk0rpXbVCOoV3wsKIw8frba_tFzY4iJhg8hqI3d3oJu7O0Y3v_5OrtoaXKlKP9HB5Ui_TpW_j3uXbY-KQmgIFwr2aKylMvM-oyLtKnq4NwUbJ_sZOAbBa7DHjBXjAsDBLTc-tVmVjlZfMbYEd9MnA9VQyiQ/s320/20230813_125904.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif7c1phCxeJ8hL8yfJsUGJrG5pwzOjH0XZ04E31GV_T8ykh9GQAlTMsbX1lCejz809sdEylwlLiRXFNba4WXu2yog30NW-IVWDz-gjix1-MEpURYSNw_7kiprWPB7zrresXyYo7Elt5vq3K0ba3nPILGhVPtaF7c3XuJbmeVJsgCK-yMHKG-_F0hCdC6U/s1209/20230813_130009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif7c1phCxeJ8hL8yfJsUGJrG5pwzOjH0XZ04E31GV_T8ykh9GQAlTMsbX1lCejz809sdEylwlLiRXFNba4WXu2yog30NW-IVWDz-gjix1-MEpURYSNw_7kiprWPB7zrresXyYo7Elt5vq3K0ba3nPILGhVPtaF7c3XuJbmeVJsgCK-yMHKG-_F0hCdC6U/s320/20230813_130009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT9mlzviUzcD1oDD6ZvBizYzyq41Uz7sIlbolIhFC0OiCxLAv1IthA70cnysdZ--Rtysx40dDShs__MH6cVqLmlAlyeOZTYIn9vlm9c06ggjdS_MaOPy6tVdvKrNBd2KhOorbpgFhoNJHLcfPC1K3IDh0QFdFmHsIilVqHIFaFtnQTKxSpRP1Yj7jtDTA/s1209/20230813_130054.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT9mlzviUzcD1oDD6ZvBizYzyq41Uz7sIlbolIhFC0OiCxLAv1IthA70cnysdZ--Rtysx40dDShs__MH6cVqLmlAlyeOZTYIn9vlm9c06ggjdS_MaOPy6tVdvKrNBd2KhOorbpgFhoNJHLcfPC1K3IDh0QFdFmHsIilVqHIFaFtnQTKxSpRP1Yj7jtDTA/s320/20230813_130054.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgryOkufDR2iShuadbkuuWrwhl5I-GM0NgeynOohPAkcMhQrZmH5L--HiEQogT_SJXi6aTBhdeJlI-rZ2Yt1IkwPS6QJn0jLxAzhxCUJNoX8XuQDjgVKBDpVkf_ZOVIFTAlzZU0F62Qkmt0E9a1gfkuZ7tEUHo-EsgoP1d1kwQmmQ0-ZGgHcaNk6OExDTg/s1209/20230813_130131.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgryOkufDR2iShuadbkuuWrwhl5I-GM0NgeynOohPAkcMhQrZmH5L--HiEQogT_SJXi6aTBhdeJlI-rZ2Yt1IkwPS6QJn0jLxAzhxCUJNoX8XuQDjgVKBDpVkf_ZOVIFTAlzZU0F62Qkmt0E9a1gfkuZ7tEUHo-EsgoP1d1kwQmmQ0-ZGgHcaNk6OExDTg/s320/20230813_130131.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbm_HOGJYyrrznMkHavjSJ2hweJnfBB86skW5O63NWjZHFSGuR4kstEImKeIYbVVWxIvHkDM3rJ6nTRPhBeH4bl8sAwzpgg5T5jD88dUsmkNH_pu1xfedBoRvtxMkEvtG5auJx2OCgSkWzz8Cpy5iGJjGF6EHfv3XgZNU4b_FDGtno40V7jhw9a0ThKuU/s1209/20230813_130232.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbm_HOGJYyrrznMkHavjSJ2hweJnfBB86skW5O63NWjZHFSGuR4kstEImKeIYbVVWxIvHkDM3rJ6nTRPhBeH4bl8sAwzpgg5T5jD88dUsmkNH_pu1xfedBoRvtxMkEvtG5auJx2OCgSkWzz8Cpy5iGJjGF6EHfv3XgZNU4b_FDGtno40V7jhw9a0ThKuU/s320/20230813_130232.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHw2YZA9TFa9cB4kFwN9aud5NR8o8ynBhyFLc5DArbI9xHbya_u3PjYxFGqmd_JigO8gbHur2WXOoGP9v5BTkxcBYeCr9EuPlAKdC_mltpely8MvDLJSHNMgd8OFdKEE9P7brGPIN5BrSbjYkLGUo1mnPi-nLGgGbzzo5NHhOQ_T8uzWDAmSPs4pSwpUk/s1209/20230813_130848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHw2YZA9TFa9cB4kFwN9aud5NR8o8ynBhyFLc5DArbI9xHbya_u3PjYxFGqmd_JigO8gbHur2WXOoGP9v5BTkxcBYeCr9EuPlAKdC_mltpely8MvDLJSHNMgd8OFdKEE9P7brGPIN5BrSbjYkLGUo1mnPi-nLGgGbzzo5NHhOQ_T8uzWDAmSPs4pSwpUk/s320/20230813_130848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Passando davanti al museo regional, che decidiamo di non visitare perchè, da solo, richiederebbe più di mezza giornata intensiva, e io "non c'ho còre" oggi, entriamo nella cattedrale, cui finora abbiamo solo girato intorno. Qui sono custoditi i veneratissimi resti di Santa Inocencia. Nella sagrestia, che ora è occupata dai sacerdoti che si preparano alla funzione, c'è un quadro di Murillo del 1650.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0jorEE5-J23NijK5mcYRigmkljUlSYqZ8zCu4uRDBmPGdhpPEowsL1n6-xpPQoZzU1ZipzjUjvD_dmzMjmag6lhWHhNYUVRdLMUt2Yw8vDx1AQnK0WLiuaBBqUg79d076ED5f-QH5W6I4p9VhJwBYaXJ-0C38mwq_VQ1WmI3cgT2hsAQH5475Pfv5KU/s1209/20230813_131055.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF0jorEE5-J23NijK5mcYRigmkljUlSYqZ8zCu4uRDBmPGdhpPEowsL1n6-xpPQoZzU1ZipzjUjvD_dmzMjmag6lhWHhNYUVRdLMUt2Yw8vDx1AQnK0WLiuaBBqUg79d076ED5f-QH5W6I4p9VhJwBYaXJ-0C38mwq_VQ1WmI3cgT2hsAQH5475Pfv5KU/s320/20230813_131055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYZSKAaRFxarmnkDdbUvG_UYd6-c9_pcQhzhY21MWg8QQTahJcUT1t_uWNzOcIekGXwhGkgnr56XnSjR6wreczIT30N_hOwvXrQkDQAbOiBBfoy5TiEVfqOfYpdLW0nVlScqGsb1jHPiBhiLWiKah2OesR0ZqrPBRH1WQw1ZLsigrT0hM63uM5-2RV_NA/s1209/20230813_131236.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYZSKAaRFxarmnkDdbUvG_UYd6-c9_pcQhzhY21MWg8QQTahJcUT1t_uWNzOcIekGXwhGkgnr56XnSjR6wreczIT30N_hOwvXrQkDQAbOiBBfoy5TiEVfqOfYpdLW0nVlScqGsb1jHPiBhiLWiKah2OesR0ZqrPBRH1WQw1ZLsigrT0hM63uM5-2RV_NA/s320/20230813_131236.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13A6zS7iEn69QHcSCziBHKqZSgTOYayWGeypkVZFK7iFrddZjV-gQIuB_5kTnpDimJUqcRbHVRaJw2GikitJUKukmA-dhxf0mcWbqDTFVJ7BwvUTQdf2jbDwRtTGIlXkuP94ic9mj1XyfpzixDncrrTonljbYDQg2LUv5DhYzsXyr0axZ8tsYwxT9jCM/s1209/20230813_131505.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13A6zS7iEn69QHcSCziBHKqZSgTOYayWGeypkVZFK7iFrddZjV-gQIuB_5kTnpDimJUqcRbHVRaJw2GikitJUKukmA-dhxf0mcWbqDTFVJ7BwvUTQdf2jbDwRtTGIlXkuP94ic9mj1XyfpzixDncrrTonljbYDQg2LUv5DhYzsXyr0axZ8tsYwxT9jCM/s320/20230813_131505.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo la breve visita, camminiamo tra Plaza Guadalajara e Plaza de Armas, con la sua bella fontana, i portici e la farmacia che. come spesso accade qu, è anche un supermercato che vende alimentari di ogni genere anche freschi, spara musica a manetta e ha commessi in camice da medico e mascotte danzanti all'esterno. Ritengo questa informazione tanto essenziale da appuntarla qui. Nei cafè si esibiscono, inevitabilmente i mariachi, la cui musica è nata proprio qui.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQkNEefJbnMHdyMQcGWscLGTv1a17ZtUfL6YiikoJTnM5gRhF-pw5LLKl_tOhtggnTNtQBQiH9pthO3cDEOFIbBNlXauCh34EI7UE3Pa6QitjON73uC-90sLo_ydQTG0JAjhM_ETWxAFWhsxIFeJCM4fNIe1ehLwmCnF6hhFnqmupW2bcAvh7nCqaXZo/s1209/20230813_131620.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQkNEefJbnMHdyMQcGWscLGTv1a17ZtUfL6YiikoJTnM5gRhF-pw5LLKl_tOhtggnTNtQBQiH9pthO3cDEOFIbBNlXauCh34EI7UE3Pa6QitjON73uC-90sLo_ydQTG0JAjhM_ETWxAFWhsxIFeJCM4fNIe1ehLwmCnF6hhFnqmupW2bcAvh7nCqaXZo/s320/20230813_131620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qIIoOYYH0_TsQSq9zBjyewpQtMRL-YK3ib9V6wIA9NksbrWcqqKSGQSg271vm_HFXLYwuyfN27JX81GycovGDJKlOO8WmCrX2MWDe92RqgROqSRCHza6vvo9GDVSAcXuQTM1bM8g4ilN3mzcXAIU1YajMPX6cru01FukPsHfuTQuh5uB-IiJpc0N2AQ/s1209/20230813_131804.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qIIoOYYH0_TsQSq9zBjyewpQtMRL-YK3ib9V6wIA9NksbrWcqqKSGQSg271vm_HFXLYwuyfN27JX81GycovGDJKlOO8WmCrX2MWDe92RqgROqSRCHza6vvo9GDVSAcXuQTM1bM8g4ilN3mzcXAIU1YajMPX6cru01FukPsHfuTQuh5uB-IiJpc0N2AQ/s320/20230813_131804.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4X7Sub2iSqWArqS7uIYuNSI7eOWyP0cGS68NcKBusC_SkBvKfRocXyWgRN32WC94Oleot1yXJcT_xEMti2G1J4RKRvx77npUDUEIa4buMqIZNltKnUb3LGm73AksvI6YZGlXbpVP5gGNfOAcA7XlOrDrcvuZp2m_3akAIAGRHm9xps4rK49CCHOGYU7I/s1209/20230813_131915.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4X7Sub2iSqWArqS7uIYuNSI7eOWyP0cGS68NcKBusC_SkBvKfRocXyWgRN32WC94Oleot1yXJcT_xEMti2G1J4RKRvx77npUDUEIa4buMqIZNltKnUb3LGm73AksvI6YZGlXbpVP5gGNfOAcA7XlOrDrcvuZp2m_3akAIAGRHm9xps4rK49CCHOGYU7I/s320/20230813_131915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5c_F9Il25qd61hlqX28eU50c0Ji8OBltHVzLvtBKUJskW5t3WShZWaqHMoH91-iIohcsIz4KBnD804GP-LB3uu5NTWUrTuSBn0yJJ8wsFKeNmf_C2tNXBRvzeGp_pFGiQSRyBdfzIK4rSDC9qjklji0YOVh5k1G-AZFAjwevwardVcP4iN5_PjYsYqMI/s1209/20230813_132034.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5c_F9Il25qd61hlqX28eU50c0Ji8OBltHVzLvtBKUJskW5t3WShZWaqHMoH91-iIohcsIz4KBnD804GP-LB3uu5NTWUrTuSBn0yJJ8wsFKeNmf_C2tNXBRvzeGp_pFGiQSRyBdfzIK4rSDC9qjklji0YOVh5k1G-AZFAjwevwardVcP4iN5_PjYsYqMI/s320/20230813_132034.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il tequilabus</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCflPjLuYEwv86lViWRdKgfWya5Yylx9XpDeagKs0tesOcCqFub0xPKgisDPHxQQM7zfDV4wv5FUnq5dOOuw57b1R1ok_iguqJ7rUx88EsHwRrIeS-2mann7t2Y7XRHiLQVbNzPJO-BzXS9apSOUq1mStU50kos5JvZI5OFVWN85Z50tnynvGOi4n4kSE/s1209/20230813_132037.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCflPjLuYEwv86lViWRdKgfWya5Yylx9XpDeagKs0tesOcCqFub0xPKgisDPHxQQM7zfDV4wv5FUnq5dOOuw57b1R1ok_iguqJ7rUx88EsHwRrIeS-2mann7t2Y7XRHiLQVbNzPJO-BzXS9apSOUq1mStU50kos5JvZI5OFVWN85Z50tnynvGOi4n4kSE/s320/20230813_132037.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw9MCthJCIm-1NNYmYb8J6nQBsv_7MvFIDHMcSPHKTSL2Uu3MgQtITAFjoEawXrUfBUeUkrieJReQb6eSR_n2JGbukklsgNflXBdg4f6LIkAiim5kXKQCr4MYpXOrVjLyL_nyVMQuViaAC1NlDY2-1Osv8VKRA-4GoyNKOmoA9kdS9W68R5NhqZ15i7gY/s1209/20230813_133141.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw9MCthJCIm-1NNYmYb8J6nQBsv_7MvFIDHMcSPHKTSL2Uu3MgQtITAFjoEawXrUfBUeUkrieJReQb6eSR_n2JGbukklsgNflXBdg4f6LIkAiim5kXKQCr4MYpXOrVjLyL_nyVMQuViaAC1NlDY2-1Osv8VKRA-4GoyNKOmoA9kdS9W68R5NhqZ15i7gY/s320/20230813_133141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDlPWfkAG7BB1E0YzncTypWizmij6tWAi7PfiCOWX1EqgureBuyi3bACQnT5XbG-jCAfh4073OZ884hmqn4PSIWIc3cmQWACk06u2Bs8hZ5ivRZAnZXCKKqpTIEXtdywXig3XG5Oi62OxOi7IuVNEIM2dxDc_YJcxmPyhZDyLOe3KQ64uGl9X77QkWks/s1209/20230813_133145.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDlPWfkAG7BB1E0YzncTypWizmij6tWAi7PfiCOWX1EqgureBuyi3bACQnT5XbG-jCAfh4073OZ884hmqn4PSIWIc3cmQWACk06u2Bs8hZ5ivRZAnZXCKKqpTIEXtdywXig3XG5Oi62OxOi7IuVNEIM2dxDc_YJcxmPyhZDyLOe3KQ64uGl9X77QkWks/s320/20230813_133145.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkiSz8SCm4mKkUGnUhrt1OIMcjW68QFktHFutiakv-wnO38s2J1UuW4YiybHyrjWXGqMYRWF737y6prUYrXo9qgglcQgrSEhVAYQguD5NBKp8LwjEEhOaoaW5bXywkG_vlQKW-zJg2q1iO_I7ci7aoBu5hKPyo6AFuBnDDf_-XQWsQqkyoJIjlndkcAM/s1209/20230813_133307.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkiSz8SCm4mKkUGnUhrt1OIMcjW68QFktHFutiakv-wnO38s2J1UuW4YiybHyrjWXGqMYRWF737y6prUYrXo9qgglcQgrSEhVAYQguD5NBKp8LwjEEhOaoaW5bXywkG_vlQKW-zJg2q1iO_I7ci7aoBu5hKPyo6AFuBnDDf_-XQWsQqkyoJIjlndkcAM/s320/20230813_133307.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9w0I2l4CSQZnR7_0UzHbqKOXJGyq3rWCmgPdQdmadnXbWxjyiRgXxaXtwm3ZaZC4syys1Hkm2nx3fRb31BLVbXElaB0PZwh8Ph_7gA8Len2kqoXelv2oYS9hpuTG62bqFnXl8kjf-PusnxSCU7te2xAnBbYPi2yyFeZfprUQ7Lt3jDG4a_cJ87KLbkA/s1209/20230813_133320.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9w0I2l4CSQZnR7_0UzHbqKOXJGyq3rWCmgPdQdmadnXbWxjyiRgXxaXtwm3ZaZC4syys1Hkm2nx3fRb31BLVbXElaB0PZwh8Ph_7gA8Len2kqoXelv2oYS9hpuTG62bqFnXl8kjf-PusnxSCU7te2xAnBbYPi2yyFeZfprUQ7Lt3jDG4a_cJ87KLbkA/s320/20230813_133320.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver gettato uno sguardo al Palacio municipal, che sembra antico ma è degli anni '50 del secolo scorso, e al templo de Nuestra senora de la merced, gremito per la Messa, ci portiamo nella Rotonda de los Jaliscienses ilustres, la hall of fame locale. 30 sculture bronzee ricordano i personaggi più influenti della storia dello stato, tra cui scrittori, architetti, ingegneri, artisti, rivoluzionari... I resti di alcuni di loro si trovano sotto alla rotunda, al centro della piazza.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0qUhma9l3rDVTMheeV7tq1-qUlPv-M3XqJT5QplQ8_OLYErbxKP-dxCSpW0NRlXFYwQiQgsKjxdRjBE9VpzXiL8Ex6qv-wNDFCT4X_8jiBho24dzfmyfdj9PmDeMR0AXjexgfA2OtoWq6ZCXgY4dE7Th4Yf4vp4HCFDOr47NlrP87pdndjq3cQG8yMc/s1209/20230813_133709.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0qUhma9l3rDVTMheeV7tq1-qUlPv-M3XqJT5QplQ8_OLYErbxKP-dxCSpW0NRlXFYwQiQgsKjxdRjBE9VpzXiL8Ex6qv-wNDFCT4X_8jiBho24dzfmyfdj9PmDeMR0AXjexgfA2OtoWq6ZCXgY4dE7Th4Yf4vp4HCFDOr47NlrP87pdndjq3cQG8yMc/s320/20230813_133709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivI6VNF25k_oEqgmXDL316UZURmX2oFmM7dO0oZWgUBMFPQ2wLw1mFvUZszea83JyY-Mv3_PyeWPVsppJWWYlBX65DSLLQbeNQMH8yXTvaWrOvyTrjQLPhvOUXT5Y2-ojHU_mr3kI9OOmKmi727RhtT9jQLCuxri9-33BCxWNp-TGu8FOFEaxP8enkqSI/s1209/20230813_133749.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivI6VNF25k_oEqgmXDL316UZURmX2oFmM7dO0oZWgUBMFPQ2wLw1mFvUZszea83JyY-Mv3_PyeWPVsppJWWYlBX65DSLLQbeNQMH8yXTvaWrOvyTrjQLPhvOUXT5Y2-ojHU_mr3kI9OOmKmi727RhtT9jQLCuxri9-33BCxWNp-TGu8FOFEaxP8enkqSI/s320/20230813_133749.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNbXkG_-nruw9sPNOFT9X4c6WbcIBJNgOa7deHN3_Sy85dKhU6ZkltnGv7itAKJuhdXmWWEXqbSVlzq4RfZAXYMXPLNo0UnuX-8_szUCf9muEbvEbR7PXvc2-ywE6QMCuGLiDZJcFnhuuxPpBy8hlwM55lWeiBCGFJOUuVyCw_nmlIwuF4rxzv9oQB4Yk/s1209/20230813_133956.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNbXkG_-nruw9sPNOFT9X4c6WbcIBJNgOa7deHN3_Sy85dKhU6ZkltnGv7itAKJuhdXmWWEXqbSVlzq4RfZAXYMXPLNo0UnuX-8_szUCf9muEbvEbR7PXvc2-ywE6QMCuGLiDZJcFnhuuxPpBy8hlwM55lWeiBCGFJOUuVyCw_nmlIwuF4rxzv9oQB4Yk/s320/20230813_133956.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVIoMlvEkFVCa3rDW6D2_DqLG2AxDID4GLYS7eqQ1Q66_Cix12ADTQnrYBwswbnl6a1I73NX3h5IV6GT2kNOhUQCursEiZXVHFKrWHrYFaI6oQRSAJ_FbhxU9vxOsLfuUo5mxaUG0wf30V5Kq3aHxFRUAXOO1R2fdLd_WM9y2ALs9k3lzMDIZfBQgSGUk/s1209/20230813_134153.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVIoMlvEkFVCa3rDW6D2_DqLG2AxDID4GLYS7eqQ1Q66_Cix12ADTQnrYBwswbnl6a1I73NX3h5IV6GT2kNOhUQCursEiZXVHFKrWHrYFaI6oQRSAJ_FbhxU9vxOsLfuUo5mxaUG0wf30V5Kq3aHxFRUAXOO1R2fdLd_WM9y2ALs9k3lzMDIZfBQgSGUk/s320/20230813_134153.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passeggiamo in zona universitaria, tra edifici coloniali e mercatini artigianali. Anche qui è in corso un festival delle culture indigene, e noi ci lasciamo assorbire dalla folla colorata.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie2kktgUlUkmTZWnhGsRRBwma-qOLQHM9oWOc4fMUW54VAxIB7ushqwwa5iHPuwanet_3OkJsvLFHvVJVPMPna8_zavPuU58w7magAmjFQ1sXJygqeTmaf7kdrxHXvoPQysLfOYDVsMOe-05EIKB7-7aOLkkZ-mcU4Vak2wH4Xff1HapZ5ZZdA1ZL8WLc/s1209/20230813_134618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie2kktgUlUkmTZWnhGsRRBwma-qOLQHM9oWOc4fMUW54VAxIB7ushqwwa5iHPuwanet_3OkJsvLFHvVJVPMPna8_zavPuU58w7magAmjFQ1sXJygqeTmaf7kdrxHXvoPQysLfOYDVsMOe-05EIKB7-7aOLkkZ-mcU4Vak2wH4Xff1HapZ5ZZdA1ZL8WLc/s320/20230813_134618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Gg_jua8GObEDBaqazrvoR8jSmchbjEng4AX-8D9A_M7GuSw5D2SmNcYptRXqYTKNPrNrngFVufH_BZpfIPVVoIeKPBueC19i5tKRX1lkkCHpyVaJ84ijqeLJjYAbb6tL6GAnmi2wI2SsPekCe8bjebTCMgACQxekPK_itHMODWEU4JUGiTO9CIv4T3s/s1209/20230813_134826.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Gg_jua8GObEDBaqazrvoR8jSmchbjEng4AX-8D9A_M7GuSw5D2SmNcYptRXqYTKNPrNrngFVufH_BZpfIPVVoIeKPBueC19i5tKRX1lkkCHpyVaJ84ijqeLJjYAbb6tL6GAnmi2wI2SsPekCe8bjebTCMgACQxekPK_itHMODWEU4JUGiTO9CIv4T3s/s320/20230813_134826.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJMa-KrfjZhXJiepLbvaWeoWq7gpVur1XtoCwSBG2gzQZnsezY2mmEjg6MIuU0cgZHvJWUaLGFLT8xTheBxQQYjJQ-Iclt0asPVyNE5cksZ6xkCeuBeqxi9m9GfJOw9h5z30rhq8fUQpLsfp4AINUlpP7vYGs_q2fYTegOKeYeiaS4uVjmORXRL4UhkI/s1209/20230813_134923.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJMa-KrfjZhXJiepLbvaWeoWq7gpVur1XtoCwSBG2gzQZnsezY2mmEjg6MIuU0cgZHvJWUaLGFLT8xTheBxQQYjJQ-Iclt0asPVyNE5cksZ6xkCeuBeqxi9m9GfJOw9h5z30rhq8fUQpLsfp4AINUlpP7vYGs_q2fYTegOKeYeiaS4uVjmORXRL4UhkI/s320/20230813_134923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuwJaDHRC7Z1XyFWkB7XTBaq_Q1nQK2H5H0FIXmR3hM-pzX2dNt2n50RTQFE8Z4n215YE0qzfpkOCNc4PgVWvA85pUhVxYqNP7II5L_7VKAlGHCW2I7KFp9mkCkbdoPJqGP-IXA-APro1J-a-8YHU4shNTpYnM2ap1pphXyqmG9_7QhW0G6CkjBELjv_A/s1209/20230813_135030.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuwJaDHRC7Z1XyFWkB7XTBaq_Q1nQK2H5H0FIXmR3hM-pzX2dNt2n50RTQFE8Z4n215YE0qzfpkOCNc4PgVWvA85pUhVxYqNP7II5L_7VKAlGHCW2I7KFp9mkCkbdoPJqGP-IXA-APro1J-a-8YHU4shNTpYnM2ap1pphXyqmG9_7QhW0G6CkjBELjv_A/s320/20230813_135030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7082JEzhvgyFXo8R9ycJJYQmqo7HbR7r7BED5yXHatsRHvL66vpGBPdAHDc2FValb4F7rPHE12SxrXmN1PhUKGnBrVIGTBFAjdS6FOQXiBjfCFZG7pWoOJolwGne0TXV8JVeUgq-VyIyvbDkj52HpMMjv322Cyr0ps2SLvkKGz6P7VRwbwWp-hIg-Zwg/s1209/20230813_135036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7082JEzhvgyFXo8R9ycJJYQmqo7HbR7r7BED5yXHatsRHvL66vpGBPdAHDc2FValb4F7rPHE12SxrXmN1PhUKGnBrVIGTBFAjdS6FOQXiBjfCFZG7pWoOJolwGne0TXV8JVeUgq-VyIyvbDkj52HpMMjv322Cyr0ps2SLvkKGz6P7VRwbwWp-hIg-Zwg/s320/20230813_135036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYPkp6JXWtdosaqTJrHiVcbhgJkCSgxKL-FeePdWG1ERtl1tKpbzYjoII2Uiw8vO2i0ALGd3ZOBwSMUUjPS2iW37kVmMv0j5icDbZtFCuCf6f7CZJOiv0yxzvgl8NLWlIH3XdfjhvY1Hw16SqN0Atdb2yh3bm_X0ZLPenkmLl8EGVLPpjijomxa7d1VI/s1209/20230813_135255.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYPkp6JXWtdosaqTJrHiVcbhgJkCSgxKL-FeePdWG1ERtl1tKpbzYjoII2Uiw8vO2i0ALGd3ZOBwSMUUjPS2iW37kVmMv0j5icDbZtFCuCf6f7CZJOiv0yxzvgl8NLWlIH3XdfjhvY1Hw16SqN0Atdb2yh3bm_X0ZLPenkmLl8EGVLPpjijomxa7d1VI/s320/20230813_135255.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdXz7X2mi6_9zwWLrVvXmBQukreNsxyQc9_M6xBvOOnDRXxfDw-YousC9o4UxNELFawwSjykY9vCKwYIp6ZTg-7-HoRridksj_qFcZ2ljlnR0rbyeixQmwHapAXH3IzjlA_v91kK6o-BvcZgopMl477A4o64ZiPKNqwDPSqcub3WV0YEESAPmepVLRmI/s1209/20230813_135341.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdXz7X2mi6_9zwWLrVvXmBQukreNsxyQc9_M6xBvOOnDRXxfDw-YousC9o4UxNELFawwSjykY9vCKwYIp6ZTg-7-HoRridksj_qFcZ2ljlnR0rbyeixQmwHapAXH3IzjlA_v91kK6o-BvcZgopMl477A4o64ZiPKNqwDPSqcub3WV0YEESAPmepVLRmI/s320/20230813_135341.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tequila con scorpioni</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qWwLx6LW38R9hOGcg_mvlDRxHrvsCf_kMdVOI3LlBEWgPEhuRvfpDpHQdp2AZ4Mnmt3WNTLhKJ6sNKCa5C_Y46KAfFQX4mUOMGm5SMFrYmWVvVr2AcCyJnaL1A10SOSXGcaLf1Lcc_Z-qTTm4WzEiDS224p_qGxgvOcTi1nQAFMUuC_Q6qgdlKMIe60/s1209/20230813_135431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qWwLx6LW38R9hOGcg_mvlDRxHrvsCf_kMdVOI3LlBEWgPEhuRvfpDpHQdp2AZ4Mnmt3WNTLhKJ6sNKCa5C_Y46KAfFQX4mUOMGm5SMFrYmWVvVr2AcCyJnaL1A10SOSXGcaLf1Lcc_Z-qTTm4WzEiDS224p_qGxgvOcTi1nQAFMUuC_Q6qgdlKMIe60/s320/20230813_135431.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlY1pujfCSPoQ59aI7wB0BsJPZZa7eWG-FinWsgdQ8JUHXbCG7z6JrYYXTmIjpGuuYpaQFBwdzxL82_c5RHszx4WQnHJNavKAJb5BCn0z8hx7I0_kqx9QtRN4YYunccfHkOSpy_TngHIfasT0lkl-DUWEfWca2xd-SJfeQvVfSAEnMyxLjl1aVH539uuA/s1209/20230813_135543.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlY1pujfCSPoQ59aI7wB0BsJPZZa7eWG-FinWsgdQ8JUHXbCG7z6JrYYXTmIjpGuuYpaQFBwdzxL82_c5RHszx4WQnHJNavKAJb5BCn0z8hx7I0_kqx9QtRN4YYunccfHkOSpy_TngHIfasT0lkl-DUWEfWca2xd-SJfeQvVfSAEnMyxLjl1aVH539uuA/s320/20230813_135543.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TeJWidQCrOrb2lNb64rIVcodAUhQvdu4VMoI8dxFN4v-kPL2ysMrxw93i5LZAzJgBudy9Vu6gPWTgfVzd8wD3ooRtNPDWID8yxRS-DQZrJ6z3UCPN-NqG2wqb4nLc3sUPe1Cxt6bPMw_cLYNjUkTVy6Tnf_S0z1NAnqysC-2sNlGqIlVIzzAYZhHFmo/s1209/20230813_135607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TeJWidQCrOrb2lNb64rIVcodAUhQvdu4VMoI8dxFN4v-kPL2ysMrxw93i5LZAzJgBudy9Vu6gPWTgfVzd8wD3ooRtNPDWID8yxRS-DQZrJ6z3UCPN-NqG2wqb4nLc3sUPe1Cxt6bPMw_cLYNjUkTVy6Tnf_S0z1NAnqysC-2sNlGqIlVIzzAYZhHFmo/s320/20230813_135607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaMBwWB6b3nzCw4SknTtjj9KlI-sZN1mWWEkUqgGdEFSSC8zjQxiOMzLRRV4uE7wKOCOL32RjVl8z_aTc2_gUnE4c14Ip1Bt0cd9wEebF8I3v2GaOxoJIDXq66TSvEQhAj2I0dR0PFsRez5VxeOIzfgHvFWw3CjbT5Spq-reQXqv1v4kmaX6C09h3Elk/s1209/20230813_135731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaMBwWB6b3nzCw4SknTtjj9KlI-sZN1mWWEkUqgGdEFSSC8zjQxiOMzLRRV4uE7wKOCOL32RjVl8z_aTc2_gUnE4c14Ip1Bt0cd9wEebF8I3v2GaOxoJIDXq66TSvEQhAj2I0dR0PFsRez5VxeOIzfgHvFWw3CjbT5Spq-reQXqv1v4kmaX6C09h3Elk/s320/20230813_135731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdeBFBTmS5ir17Dw_0vAWX7UP1zxFxySdwonCKKkN0PsOLe3pIgIhyOC--gckQ_gvSnqUIvv6YIGf7KFfgtK1Y5hc-RsaBpPo_emmICT8nhn7qTChsA6Ua4ujNHbuAsvJnugBQ6yaEfv_VgYLagUnzlJ-muM6dAGKebbr5ftREESRzk0i4PkNBQ5_oCn0/s1209/20230813_135855.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdeBFBTmS5ir17Dw_0vAWX7UP1zxFxySdwonCKKkN0PsOLe3pIgIhyOC--gckQ_gvSnqUIvv6YIGf7KFfgtK1Y5hc-RsaBpPo_emmICT8nhn7qTChsA6Ua4ujNHbuAsvJnugBQ6yaEfv_VgYLagUnzlJ-muM6dAGKebbr5ftREESRzk0i4PkNBQ5_oCn0/s320/20230813_135855.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEk4dOMu9lXy0Ij2wx6Hwh3ptCleoBkL956hVozWd9EbgrOwQT5PYSWZN5lX9Z9eB5ODPI4zERNfOaqC1V27-bBGkqVNFOJhCTvUU8gOMmadNFu7mSH5OdUMICl6IcVok3J1DlYCG786G3XPzDDP9ZLg1k5Ks_lStE7XabV-zdJyUQsmauDPJpEDQWl4/s1209/20230813_140011.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEk4dOMu9lXy0Ij2wx6Hwh3ptCleoBkL956hVozWd9EbgrOwQT5PYSWZN5lX9Z9eB5ODPI4zERNfOaqC1V27-bBGkqVNFOJhCTvUU8gOMmadNFu7mSH5OdUMICl6IcVok3J1DlYCG786G3XPzDDP9ZLg1k5Ks_lStE7XabV-zdJyUQsmauDPJpEDQWl4/s320/20230813_140011.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sombreri e stivali tamarrissimi in cuoio</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhfEmjXCIHUofZNTzeE1GZjfFg1TMXP23bNv9CmZU00TDUgXie5u6AOpZIOQnd2RuyI9krmwgMeUMfqwil_G5X_YwnxqVwsYN2eDrxIGPhO_kaOeJxTTx3EP81GwHJvIidJUCAe9gA_yG_4C9Cn-JCP37kWrQxsN1SS1sVx48YacxNfhlFbR61bPwrpU/s1209/20230813_140033.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhfEmjXCIHUofZNTzeE1GZjfFg1TMXP23bNv9CmZU00TDUgXie5u6AOpZIOQnd2RuyI9krmwgMeUMfqwil_G5X_YwnxqVwsYN2eDrxIGPhO_kaOeJxTTx3EP81GwHJvIidJUCAe9gA_yG_4C9Cn-JCP37kWrQxsN1SS1sVx48YacxNfhlFbR61bPwrpU/s320/20230813_140033.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">maschere per la lucha libre</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-aoYm0i977OfmCk2vdTTbBqvOnoLefPcelsBttwfBuPN8q2Ltj4Rujw4tIMbbu0gJlWVgm-eIS6UGLCIgtbFvor0rHx5H3n9hnxDur6DUWgShXXPQarfT_qnHLObcEX_vAPI_Q90UaxKYKX2GjCf8bMLJwTai9ec5WFazsgsiRCK_iMEijtkK9mtzyY/s1209/20230813_140232.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-aoYm0i977OfmCk2vdTTbBqvOnoLefPcelsBttwfBuPN8q2Ltj4Rujw4tIMbbu0gJlWVgm-eIS6UGLCIgtbFvor0rHx5H3n9hnxDur6DUWgShXXPQarfT_qnHLObcEX_vAPI_Q90UaxKYKX2GjCf8bMLJwTai9ec5WFazsgsiRCK_iMEijtkK9mtzyY/s320/20230813_140232.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">un broccolo</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpnuor1LxWpCtyI2skVMVueENARXHIzzPQpxEnn4E_AAs0sR5uYWCxNcvgHf3xUicj-FeTkWONmIrNPJDhXXzCTONM6eCjR2axrI3knlsluFfCON5n_r7C9hBnNvq784u2sjOK_1cpxbyftVIYoKunFYxqlF7F4JBtwLjv2R7GEfLm-o2XdShDgJlL4Y/s1209/20230813_140321.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpnuor1LxWpCtyI2skVMVueENARXHIzzPQpxEnn4E_AAs0sR5uYWCxNcvgHf3xUicj-FeTkWONmIrNPJDhXXzCTONM6eCjR2axrI3knlsluFfCON5n_r7C9hBnNvq784u2sjOK_1cpxbyftVIYoKunFYxqlF7F4JBtwLjv2R7GEfLm-o2XdShDgJlL4Y/s320/20230813_140321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Cammina e cammina, arriviamo nella sconfinata Plaza Tapatia, ampa oltre 500m per lato, interamente pedonale, dove i local passeggiano, fanno shopping, mangiano spuntini delle bancarelle e i bimbi usano le grandi fontane come piscine, anche vestiti di tutto punto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmJlB1j94H4upeMbwo3zQLk9E-oPryaFlTsKP2cAqKHPCaZZ8O_d2mwrNIeJZIfaHxr3DBOfbaCUXIirtkqmye82AHtTLqnM90AhOWKNr-Ijgown5WZthYRLyVHZPRPm7fYMy8xCxfGPHR5-FrPnw2r-cuSd9EHsg0rLusV839g3VbZ_3b3HtgSIHenj0/s1209/20230813_140942.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmJlB1j94H4upeMbwo3zQLk9E-oPryaFlTsKP2cAqKHPCaZZ8O_d2mwrNIeJZIfaHxr3DBOfbaCUXIirtkqmye82AHtTLqnM90AhOWKNr-Ijgown5WZthYRLyVHZPRPm7fYMy8xCxfGPHR5-FrPnw2r-cuSd9EHsg0rLusV839g3VbZ_3b3HtgSIHenj0/s320/20230813_140942.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnk9kVdh2hHBag_IG-Hu97KMAl1d97wPfkIJozHmRtO5P7edhqAYVU00nZkBMQ6qMhguw4tRrglq89YB8cR94ivGuKYPTCpPBGNSn0C_5WuR6CAULAvYCQUDsRydqOWTVK9Fi4iuHJdarAQAAWh6-ANFwThAzHLYYEzwm1kLwwmhCAczXCuPqY24xwso/s1209/20230813_141000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnk9kVdh2hHBag_IG-Hu97KMAl1d97wPfkIJozHmRtO5P7edhqAYVU00nZkBMQ6qMhguw4tRrglq89YB8cR94ivGuKYPTCpPBGNSn0C_5WuR6CAULAvYCQUDsRydqOWTVK9Fi4iuHJdarAQAAWh6-ANFwThAzHLYYEzwm1kLwwmhCAczXCuPqY24xwso/s320/20230813_141000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_WUupg-lr4nOEfpgPw3Bse2ngPyaYFdrAEI7NipcDZhbmc66IHy6QbiUuJKAbYNpnTY3heGmN56aSwMSWkDOBdXDbt1DRibNQFxFC-VSFes3OdCj0y_8W26i_gJ1yCGG0PKzHZRdIXD1LLM4Y3FGVFFkuT0PWZBmtWM64smA1Ssei1OA8KmOIDx9cTYg/s1209/20230813_141049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_WUupg-lr4nOEfpgPw3Bse2ngPyaYFdrAEI7NipcDZhbmc66IHy6QbiUuJKAbYNpnTY3heGmN56aSwMSWkDOBdXDbt1DRibNQFxFC-VSFes3OdCj0y_8W26i_gJ1yCGG0PKzHZRdIXD1LLM4Y3FGVFFkuT0PWZBmtWM64smA1Ssei1OA8KmOIDx9cTYg/s320/20230813_141049.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHsTNZpa5_5G7Z6XGZ3LNRiyBdNEtIYgmJK8LGIuKzUc4KCDfq03WOj85K2o5iZ9EytU74sNVj9gTVZal6QJJtZT4UZW9TT8SVVsx9q-jreLud539pRevoVkhgIMVIJDKemVGEK-UEfOewtmCAvpIF_Mdd9w2NcG010J9883MtUtQ64KjCUCJUAIrlKw/s1209/20230813_141239.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHsTNZpa5_5G7Z6XGZ3LNRiyBdNEtIYgmJK8LGIuKzUc4KCDfq03WOj85K2o5iZ9EytU74sNVj9gTVZal6QJJtZT4UZW9TT8SVVsx9q-jreLud539pRevoVkhgIMVIJDKemVGEK-UEfOewtmCAvpIF_Mdd9w2NcG010J9883MtUtQ64KjCUCJUAIrlKw/s320/20230813_141239.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriviamo, in un questo clima festoso e vacanziero, all'Instituto cultural de Cabañas, gioiello architettonico e Patrimonio UNESCO. Anche la piazza antistante è colma di installazioni artistiche permanenti, che la gente ammira e usa anche per riposare, trattandosi spesso di panchine o sedute.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZtF5udFVPPH8Yr6Ngl7_px7ZxWEpwvjhCLjuF40a4opGkHcYlVc6pOZFRelJy3hxSFGecS3Z_XyyHpGeTbPfJtrpuPZUTPp2EOaJmQhjNyq-F_vhn2GoVb0-Tnfe6KLVDqHrvMjRrrohEdWvA7n0rk-dVcu4dAtuOHb09pkXElCZBBfz1aO8N4jBItE/s1209/20230813_141606.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZtF5udFVPPH8Yr6Ngl7_px7ZxWEpwvjhCLjuF40a4opGkHcYlVc6pOZFRelJy3hxSFGecS3Z_XyyHpGeTbPfJtrpuPZUTPp2EOaJmQhjNyq-F_vhn2GoVb0-Tnfe6KLVDqHrvMjRrrohEdWvA7n0rk-dVcu4dAtuOHb09pkXElCZBBfz1aO8N4jBItE/s320/20230813_141606.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MZ5KqCkOfdvcDUxxvfu5WPubXTZvGNlm7fZrhiDQT46YyFXWbcq_lWPBPqLBw8YeCqJ943kGNaXXBT6W4Bwt4SpsakkTx9ZI6oh-F9g30LkhJvjTvk2FIXAky-MqFx_qNG9jHZTxDp9vU0bjqSLW5zEkNo_MVj94EYmjCMyZsBjgTQdAcARX75KYguA/s1209/20230813_141633.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MZ5KqCkOfdvcDUxxvfu5WPubXTZvGNlm7fZrhiDQT46YyFXWbcq_lWPBPqLBw8YeCqJ943kGNaXXBT6W4Bwt4SpsakkTx9ZI6oh-F9g30LkhJvjTvk2FIXAky-MqFx_qNG9jHZTxDp9vU0bjqSLW5zEkNo_MVj94EYmjCMyZsBjgTQdAcARX75KYguA/s320/20230813_141633.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnR481447IboGcbAFqwRHUaGmcwS-Oyn0SQ6rDPcKZgNzAAx8MIkenn-ao3fBR3GstvbuUo-LXFs56FCB_QrQH2txB9Ycnbr3AiyyhkFU1Q-WFviICHFVAhU_h4WgDyKmRLH4L2p6OK6e9PfYQUkXpXOTar2aMOulhjfHeu9e3v6CB6ljfE8CUsLTc_Sg/s1209/20230813_141646.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnR481447IboGcbAFqwRHUaGmcwS-Oyn0SQ6rDPcKZgNzAAx8MIkenn-ao3fBR3GstvbuUo-LXFs56FCB_QrQH2txB9Ycnbr3AiyyhkFU1Q-WFviICHFVAhU_h4WgDyKmRLH4L2p6OK6e9PfYQUkXpXOTar2aMOulhjfHeu9e3v6CB6ljfE8CUsLTc_Sg/s320/20230813_141646.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfyYVbzw3lTGmXN0DzeHKxeWInA5RgwkuNhleoRz6PJuyV-e_ddNRKFoDYOVy9hAsWESIjm0Whhyv7DZMypjnr7Hwu4FLLFV1o_7FdWNtram7b8wZbdHxwb3AWUQcwz2SVb-yZy42BYDoccs_36KZPfQD0K7PPFewRfr4aPYCJfv9e7nX9Zu2DbsqJjfM/s1209/20230813_141725.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfyYVbzw3lTGmXN0DzeHKxeWInA5RgwkuNhleoRz6PJuyV-e_ddNRKFoDYOVy9hAsWESIjm0Whhyv7DZMypjnr7Hwu4FLLFV1o_7FdWNtram7b8wZbdHxwb3AWUQcwz2SVb-yZy42BYDoccs_36KZPfQD0K7PPFewRfr4aPYCJfv9e7nX9Zu2DbsqJjfM/s320/20230813_141725.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDiPTFLCgFutt6GI8MttI36YpKOKyJrRXd6cDEr1gif9v-mT6LntRgqD38a6qB1a2iIpZW8Fb7uW2mAFKzQDqWiBtq-BAMYQqRfVVrt4ARdhsTzyMnq-YBU9fiM6uG8zbSMh3m0M1dOjV-wYId3MPCf4Dhtw2Ll8BGAgiWCRfX2rTB7eleF3FpLXyc7o/s1209/20230813_141814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDiPTFLCgFutt6GI8MttI36YpKOKyJrRXd6cDEr1gif9v-mT6LntRgqD38a6qB1a2iIpZW8Fb7uW2mAFKzQDqWiBtq-BAMYQqRfVVrt4ARdhsTzyMnq-YBU9fiM6uG8zbSMh3m0M1dOjV-wYId3MPCf4Dhtw2Ll8BGAgiWCRfX2rTB7eleF3FpLXyc7o/s320/20230813_141814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0mqzdSs0XK2Gr97lz8sw4BncpGo5obyhcTbqfUf6PDxHRecQBqjBp0cFZJjw25m39GpKub-uhDO5Oq0L4SjRJrQMPdGA1853U-e3KNgc9hM2LkK1QsfdV6yV0HgMi7kgsEtGnjlvKq3ptUJKnSNdnHiGZQdCtTsmlWeDUwTjPuuf_H_W-XkzpJusvV-A/s1209/20230813_142700.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0mqzdSs0XK2Gr97lz8sw4BncpGo5obyhcTbqfUf6PDxHRecQBqjBp0cFZJjw25m39GpKub-uhDO5Oq0L4SjRJrQMPdGA1853U-e3KNgc9hM2LkK1QsfdV6yV0HgMi7kgsEtGnjlvKq3ptUJKnSNdnHiGZQdCtTsmlWeDUwTjPuuf_H_W-XkzpJusvV-A/s320/20230813_142700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Questo magnifico palazzo, voluto dal vescovo Juan Cruz Ruiz de Cabañas, risale al periodo 1805-1810; fu orfanotrofio e ricovero per invalidi per 150 anni, fino a ospitare 500 bambini contemporaneamente. E' un esempio magistrale di stile neoclassico, con pianta simmetrica, freschi cortili interni e porticati. Quando la proprietà del complesso passò dagli ordini religiosi allo stato del Jalisco, il governo chiese a Orozco di dipingere le pareti i soffitti della Capilla Mayor. Qui l'artista diede il meglio di sè, con i suoi oltre 57 murales considerati i suoi capolavori (1937-39). Nel museo sono ospitate altre mostre dedicate agli artisti messicani contemporanei.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzRiY2N3yXv-ntB9BuwStPvE3c8ui1hKVO_RYmCVknqnC5qLnGK2Nt7A5WOABCbzmWS7UPNN6FBW296Xvpe_f4WRJDcF1DKsfGieyCtKmet1pM6Nt9t-aRykKEmtZjnamyhzFWEWvlJNBSpdN5nPEtzJdh4mzuF4Zqe0R7qTVcgTXRQya2lmUpKoIgA8/s1209/20230813_143436.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZzRiY2N3yXv-ntB9BuwStPvE3c8ui1hKVO_RYmCVknqnC5qLnGK2Nt7A5WOABCbzmWS7UPNN6FBW296Xvpe_f4WRJDcF1DKsfGieyCtKmet1pM6Nt9t-aRykKEmtZjnamyhzFWEWvlJNBSpdN5nPEtzJdh4mzuF4Zqe0R7qTVcgTXRQya2lmUpKoIgA8/s320/20230813_143436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhabxaH2RwdkOWl0GQuqHDEE1YujFbIwcL4PVvETu1BiT6eWm_zyOHZVhJPWEwbNQuNZ1UnYy74wjB9VBg_hFPlaPzfUIAj6FOUx30nPMw1LLydFhjNl_ijVJwWom4n7rslwo0Gpn7wr_St9JdGjgsomRpBSGQgqCXpltVjJViotzfJbJsgFPKlRa0L1F0/s1209/20230813_143845.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhabxaH2RwdkOWl0GQuqHDEE1YujFbIwcL4PVvETu1BiT6eWm_zyOHZVhJPWEwbNQuNZ1UnYy74wjB9VBg_hFPlaPzfUIAj6FOUx30nPMw1LLydFhjNl_ijVJwWom4n7rslwo0Gpn7wr_St9JdGjgsomRpBSGQgqCXpltVjJViotzfJbJsgFPKlRa0L1F0/s320/20230813_143845.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22LVHD2yWzGRu8D2KxpvFg0ZL88sdXLKs8vV0xm51AT7lkJLpRP0qSpRD4K4J0BervUjWTXNbDSM4xwz2jZs3Q_aLrN4LKf-m1ifsnkvDvHwgeIhACoGsG_X31scu2nn7i4_6ov4xDbQv9MNdN5GnDALleIi6sguc0kTyxjQg8eaSqFEeR7aUR5xyrec/s1209/20230813_144109.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22LVHD2yWzGRu8D2KxpvFg0ZL88sdXLKs8vV0xm51AT7lkJLpRP0qSpRD4K4J0BervUjWTXNbDSM4xwz2jZs3Q_aLrN4LKf-m1ifsnkvDvHwgeIhACoGsG_X31scu2nn7i4_6ov4xDbQv9MNdN5GnDALleIi6sguc0kTyxjQg8eaSqFEeR7aUR5xyrec/s320/20230813_144109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdbtCz7hfU0FG0NIc7CxlK-TgNKw1iYSj49A9EJnusT5yLdCqxkQZpC49__OgKzeH4tTgePnBTTKtFy9KQWvhVOj6TsIf10qYJNTS9OLSm-IzHgrTCChn_r21Hu6EE2BHBTPVqUyzl71q8Te7PsOB3_O6RxloAakMlVGh2TKvMaX14qqYNyYBmkVzkJV4/s1209/20230813_144409.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdbtCz7hfU0FG0NIc7CxlK-TgNKw1iYSj49A9EJnusT5yLdCqxkQZpC49__OgKzeH4tTgePnBTTKtFy9KQWvhVOj6TsIf10qYJNTS9OLSm-IzHgrTCChn_r21Hu6EE2BHBTPVqUyzl71q8Te7PsOB3_O6RxloAakMlVGh2TKvMaX14qqYNyYBmkVzkJV4/s320/20230813_144409.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENnQYc_KveOkdG-dJSlobM9539U0XM3IMVNz-UJQCP4qp2L-olmP1pNEJgFIpIH8JZ1Nj9atbGFDVjFaI9z0mp6KTKHypxhi9QT8ZBqR6VbbDPmw_-cRSo7jomfqNbG5067e71_YANvb4B66Pj6OeIhsIdcE-W5bG2rQRBBEZVGVKgj5Qc_kKcnZDvgw/s1209/20230813_144447.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENnQYc_KveOkdG-dJSlobM9539U0XM3IMVNz-UJQCP4qp2L-olmP1pNEJgFIpIH8JZ1Nj9atbGFDVjFaI9z0mp6KTKHypxhi9QT8ZBqR6VbbDPmw_-cRSo7jomfqNbG5067e71_YANvb4B66Pj6OeIhsIdcE-W5bG2rQRBBEZVGVKgj5Qc_kKcnZDvgw/s320/20230813_144447.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjncVMvmcDg3IMQfTxF4OwO2F31pWcPG6WLiNCVeWnGHWFPg2IBU7OcnOwn9b-EW8jfbVwJvbELbOY5mDWjYH5oa71GK5P21gtFoAGt9jNtPSWYzihzy5XIpwdbbK3sc9TH71vE1NG0Jzu90FpwmkOntq87hpWbnJC19wZPMce60MJKf7CZsePZFdpoNfA/s1209/20230813_144753.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjncVMvmcDg3IMQfTxF4OwO2F31pWcPG6WLiNCVeWnGHWFPg2IBU7OcnOwn9b-EW8jfbVwJvbELbOY5mDWjYH5oa71GK5P21gtFoAGt9jNtPSWYzihzy5XIpwdbbK3sc9TH71vE1NG0Jzu90FpwmkOntq87hpWbnJC19wZPMce60MJKf7CZsePZFdpoNfA/s320/20230813_144753.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I murales di Orozco ritraggono il Jalisco preispanico, la conquista spagnola e le guerre successive; brulicano di immagini cupe e inquietanti in un carosello di fiamme, armature, catene spezzate sangue e croci; un monito contro ogni forma di totalitarismo e dittatura, contro la sete di potere che sovverte i valori umani.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHb9RRnpcnKcKUw7TwYkgr7IRrVd4fA1YSUYfQ6_ibwknWVohbmWirIfdHvOMlIyZzWelOp3Ahtck9UmOMpBy5DJcSkVMs7ds_G56_Nz-VwTi9ncZX4g91M7c2No17FLcg7R1oO0ZC6kAmT-WHUx3n5IPfGaQIlc8Q1tsPhY86qrhuoFV-y-lzR17To8/s979/20230813_145305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHb9RRnpcnKcKUw7TwYkgr7IRrVd4fA1YSUYfQ6_ibwknWVohbmWirIfdHvOMlIyZzWelOp3Ahtck9UmOMpBy5DJcSkVMs7ds_G56_Nz-VwTi9ncZX4g91M7c2No17FLcg7R1oO0ZC6kAmT-WHUx3n5IPfGaQIlc8Q1tsPhY86qrhuoFV-y-lzR17To8/s320/20230813_145305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfyuX0aj8JIEzzM5rJaUmKt2qDz4v0eh0VYsrrGqgYCrWXGei78fr8jrRnGrpiKvYvAaJFgBjv8aeTBkel7G5S_Yodney4SosLQu2uprE_ObEyJ9555uhE7E5CAL7N19h_LIKXiCuzhUDPHoewQxhz5QKYTiMlgjIjvx5BfUerIbZ_VkqeOMLVKlzORs/s320/20230813_145416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hCOq_308QDQeV52-fdImVvVSbnI74pXjMzpO8gQYJU-Bw9XiB69tZ_2j0UH9bdhr5H9AKNND8siMr07qs17m75KmOKUyX5NCbVYem319wr67otRDpyotBuQ0aHQZpl8hBCSnd0zuKV1rGpQsrlDlKxVcxMxvkueQDMxVAU4JHgBEs3lFPa0ZPr-npaU/s979/20230813_151625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hCOq_308QDQeV52-fdImVvVSbnI74pXjMzpO8gQYJU-Bw9XiB69tZ_2j0UH9bdhr5H9AKNND8siMr07qs17m75KmOKUyX5NCbVYem319wr67otRDpyotBuQ0aHQZpl8hBCSnd0zuKV1rGpQsrlDlKxVcxMxvkueQDMxVAU4JHgBEs3lFPa0ZPr-npaU/s320/20230813_151625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTbq3qlJKtfjxOpuAweiHNYFx9tX557xpq9QQRtORAWVmiEpcRoIMsojs5B8GrW_BbijOvwBohek16KxOec-5m-QMUo9Wbk4e_DsnmwZRrXWQ_mRbSdCF6fLFsOh_3mAQvkGtMsEBM6oIbyym0hP0zYUgUu45JoV3KsAXoPBAhzDRAWPUAo_Fp_lmbRY/s1210/20230813_151712.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTbq3qlJKtfjxOpuAweiHNYFx9tX557xpq9QQRtORAWVmiEpcRoIMsojs5B8GrW_BbijOvwBohek16KxOec-5m-QMUo9Wbk4e_DsnmwZRrXWQ_mRbSdCF6fLFsOh_3mAQvkGtMsEBM6oIbyym0hP0zYUgUu45JoV3KsAXoPBAhzDRAWPUAo_Fp_lmbRY/s320/20230813_151712.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Visitiamo con grande cura ogni sala del museo, perchè le mostre sono sintetiche ma molto interessanti, e danno un'immagine vivida del panorama artistico e culturale locale. Sono 3 euro ben spesi! (Gigi ha lo sconto mayores, io lo sconto maestra)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFpEm3Zyt3-bDk7zN3TFWoNiqfaW7OYts1rCUkzUlOOY1GTQ3xQRDf6ZNAPjXBMZrUaz1VFXVzlrHKkYayqLTzNH6wi0XY_Mn7Ef4jsX8FfQ70kto_Fp8QOSVukxnNnF7VV_UKjb-1Pzl82xco_WfRPBLzzCVd27kvDNSpzUna09lR6MUE4dQ5CK6tvs/s1209/20230813_151841.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFpEm3Zyt3-bDk7zN3TFWoNiqfaW7OYts1rCUkzUlOOY1GTQ3xQRDf6ZNAPjXBMZrUaz1VFXVzlrHKkYayqLTzNH6wi0XY_Mn7Ef4jsX8FfQ70kto_Fp8QOSVukxnNnF7VV_UKjb-1Pzl82xco_WfRPBLzzCVd27kvDNSpzUna09lR6MUE4dQ5CK6tvs/s320/20230813_151841.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaQdDxpmPQl9Mzy_PKqK6dm5lo4f0J75_x4h2l5vPQEHz5iETWdarnRq7RMvNEIGGcS2Xn2Al1sckEGlA2S-CSWXbY_r75VE8InvgDCGjcWyOirglFF5XMeeGaLXGxCmuzIkJqfFxvz_5BYqdWDJbEyqTOdImBz64MKjg91R7-W5tXi4Rf4wE9QceXJs/s1209/20230813_152305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaQdDxpmPQl9Mzy_PKqK6dm5lo4f0J75_x4h2l5vPQEHz5iETWdarnRq7RMvNEIGGcS2Xn2Al1sckEGlA2S-CSWXbY_r75VE8InvgDCGjcWyOirglFF5XMeeGaLXGxCmuzIkJqfFxvz_5BYqdWDJbEyqTOdImBz64MKjg91R7-W5tXi4Rf4wE9QceXJs/s320/20230813_152305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBKk8UvUjlN7JRw1huSrts7bOGkHtpNeD1ErgPBV2Z0D3h_ZgtmUiLJhg7Yb4Fgcjuyy5Y0TbC5Cj0OBHPI7ptlLXGgJKn8srz-mPQExl58SFhLZ5dq2MS2E28jEEOMMf6_2RGOkocphgR6LS0KptiIGW0qroy2y1ug0zW8ghF_pCo8jwsAdu9jls_YXw/s1209/20230813_152618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBKk8UvUjlN7JRw1huSrts7bOGkHtpNeD1ErgPBV2Z0D3h_ZgtmUiLJhg7Yb4Fgcjuyy5Y0TbC5Cj0OBHPI7ptlLXGgJKn8srz-mPQExl58SFhLZ5dq2MS2E28jEEOMMf6_2RGOkocphgR6LS0KptiIGW0qroy2y1ug0zW8ghF_pCo8jwsAdu9jls_YXw/s320/20230813_152618.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gYkArK-rygJJ6ShWrSk03atxyDOfF7tyLy62nr1DFBE744JbxyDfvHqJqzlOXej0Y5f_veEEH1eqtVDlJDTU9Mrhc7yVSpM0kMiAFt9jFtyhop3WYtCwXk0yfARmIIhCfC1TaXObIhirh1Ujn-BXX3nz-NcRVrzxsWbE1_XoudwERktAPtdDwKK-zaY/s1209/20230813_152801.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gYkArK-rygJJ6ShWrSk03atxyDOfF7tyLy62nr1DFBE744JbxyDfvHqJqzlOXej0Y5f_veEEH1eqtVDlJDTU9Mrhc7yVSpM0kMiAFt9jFtyhop3WYtCwXk0yfARmIIhCfC1TaXObIhirh1Ujn-BXX3nz-NcRVrzxsWbE1_XoudwERktAPtdDwKK-zaY/s320/20230813_152801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUnCP5YdjCadOKQmQD4bhJX8Gl1VTjkzMN0SHVYgQrBE0y0QWrk3-BLY-mYTIvc5j6RYlb6oxvsG4HDkDgMEQ_u1Tl0g7tLNymLQYXIk4sJ-oudRzrur5J2BatH6o82onL3vIAf8z8OwFePUqSjeeWpsWD6B-eBVJF-jaWrL-H-m9CugRxoo3zR1pTZiU/s1209/20230813_153433.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUnCP5YdjCadOKQmQD4bhJX8Gl1VTjkzMN0SHVYgQrBE0y0QWrk3-BLY-mYTIvc5j6RYlb6oxvsG4HDkDgMEQ_u1Tl0g7tLNymLQYXIk4sJ-oudRzrur5J2BatH6o82onL3vIAf8z8OwFePUqSjeeWpsWD6B-eBVJF-jaWrL-H-m9CugRxoo3zR1pTZiU/s320/20230813_153433.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkpkGuMXyzb9gt2F_Okuys3aBwEq2RoCGTgtYGcEFWDiJCs1POXZN4LsEZa2eA8hdEYz0S6WLlWG-lohuR5-a68qEtlguYl2Q6cUhfjvU_SaTLyzyd6Pshqwth1QocUjXHdgAHBekxpqlNL79X_kJcXNppjTgeDZshgRBpvGL6ZiJlOj5RzDev49rFneA/s1209/20230813_153609.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkpkGuMXyzb9gt2F_Okuys3aBwEq2RoCGTgtYGcEFWDiJCs1POXZN4LsEZa2eA8hdEYz0S6WLlWG-lohuR5-a68qEtlguYl2Q6cUhfjvU_SaTLyzyd6Pshqwth1QocUjXHdgAHBekxpqlNL79X_kJcXNppjTgeDZshgRBpvGL6ZiJlOj5RzDev49rFneA/s320/20230813_153609.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Rimane un ultimo luogo simbolico da vedere, ora: la Plaza de los Mariachis. Per raggiungerla passeggiamo nella zona del mercato San Juan de Dios, dove, tra mille mucchi di cianfrusaglie, usato e oggetti artigianali, vedo per la prima volta en vivo i frijoles saltarines, fagioli salterini. Sono fagioli in cui si trova una larva di falena, che cresce all'interno del seme, usato come bozzolo, guscio e nutrimento. Quando i fagioli con larva sono esposti al sole, questa inizia a "ballare" per cercare di spostare il fagiolo al fresco. Il rischio più grande, per lei, è morire disidratata o cotta dal calore. E quindi eccoli qui i fagioli salterini!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45SHG7zyRJFeS5eC8arQauTILZcXVqjJaM471hdwzjT2fmdFntqhLIjQ20fZzpBLdlXz83uCYVSsDGQ1MUb2sb19rIsKhj0pX-Ulaotsbn3kwgmv29ucOvMKHRc6ZW4LDgubUBm2wAWLyL_FUJaIJkaO1D0d_yB1Q6kaLMeOi13ez_D_QT1O9iSE74og/s1209/20230813_154323.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45SHG7zyRJFeS5eC8arQauTILZcXVqjJaM471hdwzjT2fmdFntqhLIjQ20fZzpBLdlXz83uCYVSsDGQ1MUb2sb19rIsKhj0pX-Ulaotsbn3kwgmv29ucOvMKHRc6ZW4LDgubUBm2wAWLyL_FUJaIJkaO1D0d_yB1Q6kaLMeOi13ez_D_QT1O9iSE74og/s320/20230813_154323.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbd6uDCDk6ReT5BWsphcHVfwizz5XVa2k4RlAKiDU8WkTYpkXFwLEWMn43idpPnxmiKoyyGwHKYyLGo2cL3UvA03nE-hMbd2ebJXIFL4Ar7-6Yaf9chYn74MDbj_yp_eGhgJH7vYKp808FPuYmoUQd0i_4LdVNKUrjOmqG5x0mjrk80V2XvekoY0AyG0k/s1209/20230813_154621.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbd6uDCDk6ReT5BWsphcHVfwizz5XVa2k4RlAKiDU8WkTYpkXFwLEWMn43idpPnxmiKoyyGwHKYyLGo2cL3UvA03nE-hMbd2ebJXIFL4Ar7-6Yaf9chYn74MDbj_yp_eGhgJH7vYKp808FPuYmoUQd0i_4LdVNKUrjOmqG5x0mjrk80V2XvekoY0AyG0k/s320/20230813_154621.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcnRWaY9xySH0l-5Q8qMMctrWB8UL-7ZTb44KvjKWaw-HPPxAAKL5aBcTfupYeWIZiImdOhEo49tpL5AHdzEXe_moBHesqhU_5NrtNJuN5ujqcF_NquG3jiP-BiFCY8PLR5EhHS-UlXAsQgCEQSmodEBNamg66JCW2VprerhO7kDzsiPZKOfRR1SNeTo/s1209/20230813_154628.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcnRWaY9xySH0l-5Q8qMMctrWB8UL-7ZTb44KvjKWaw-HPPxAAKL5aBcTfupYeWIZiImdOhEo49tpL5AHdzEXe_moBHesqhU_5NrtNJuN5ujqcF_NquG3jiP-BiFCY8PLR5EhHS-UlXAsQgCEQSmodEBNamg66JCW2VprerhO7kDzsiPZKOfRR1SNeTo/s320/20230813_154628.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPCzztrnN46OwOXN5BRf2k_iqaArsSAOCF3mHbA0Vv7icoH_ZSJadW5UCqqPoD75dUvpMBIFByPZTZKJGZw8Jw_WS_DQaB_haK6RUjOkMBp3e7uLgMhiganeW0gTZEnicQNfUa5Ck_MFLl0a8ja8EVZt9FmkGRkWS0SUGQAd_Hefpm2FsBZNHhh2F48c/s1209/20230813_154731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPCzztrnN46OwOXN5BRf2k_iqaArsSAOCF3mHbA0Vv7icoH_ZSJadW5UCqqPoD75dUvpMBIFByPZTZKJGZw8Jw_WS_DQaB_haK6RUjOkMBp3e7uLgMhiganeW0gTZEnicQNfUa5Ck_MFLl0a8ja8EVZt9FmkGRkWS0SUGQAd_Hefpm2FsBZNHhh2F48c/s320/20230813_154731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMoI_-u6eUXuSpDCDWMiWzljTAP7kHRvWAzIvSHf0YEDPmvTwccayNRI3Dntd8bry_sUabyEzvccWUbWh67IixSQQ9ReKdRCu5NXkQtOaUsgQfMqeANGC-AWCmAwoZxBTqMirXJYY1L2S_eU2a29Bq9ntpjtqL1sotml1n7mW0zCq-8iHdb0aQvIXuLF8/s1209/20230813_154927.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMoI_-u6eUXuSpDCDWMiWzljTAP7kHRvWAzIvSHf0YEDPmvTwccayNRI3Dntd8bry_sUabyEzvccWUbWh67IixSQQ9ReKdRCu5NXkQtOaUsgQfMqeANGC-AWCmAwoZxBTqMirXJYY1L2S_eU2a29Bq9ntpjtqL1sotml1n7mW0zCq-8iHdb0aQvIXuLF8/s320/20230813_154927.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw3aIwiFd-0-srfbglAT2oRBOuXIrAsam4aFRfX4UOOFaMy0tTgTvu3Uv9riLaHmX8LGtVfSRZzOaH62ftEWT5jSuEjpSZQ5ZSGybWpE-RMXCWlga6kP73eO1Rg3c-LpGAUUJraTWfkZrigNbpcVpBQnvF4r5GcSRi6K19mshG5zxsz3tuffTamOmuOkY/s1209/20230813_155003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw3aIwiFd-0-srfbglAT2oRBOuXIrAsam4aFRfX4UOOFaMy0tTgTvu3Uv9riLaHmX8LGtVfSRZzOaH62ftEWT5jSuEjpSZQ5ZSGybWpE-RMXCWlga6kP73eO1Rg3c-LpGAUUJraTWfkZrigNbpcVpBQnvF4r5GcSRi6K19mshG5zxsz3tuffTamOmuOkY/s320/20230813_155003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij3vPAzzc6dkE_LjCuBlL4heL43O7lxTMoyZOC_39o6VUPW5NZUVMqtndMflQzzRbu-AxhX-qxdoKj45nBq_BSyLEG86Gghjo-B0ysWCGp4OdgKx3qisjpt__0T84vxeqmMP85pGNrko8F8_GafnxOdYFQBGke7eCDJ_DsXxeF3U7KryBYN2EsdEH5zCU/s1209/20230813_155005.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij3vPAzzc6dkE_LjCuBlL4heL43O7lxTMoyZOC_39o6VUPW5NZUVMqtndMflQzzRbu-AxhX-qxdoKj45nBq_BSyLEG86Gghjo-B0ysWCGp4OdgKx3qisjpt__0T84vxeqmMP85pGNrko8F8_GafnxOdYFQBGke7eCDJ_DsXxeF3U7KryBYN2EsdEH5zCU/s320/20230813_155005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhcjg9VrmnnYaEhz_uBzAwCf4l3zwDmaAGGpBVN6hJjLavjODM7SgzIhyVVBuWqWOEfJFbNer4Aa9MnJgnllPtj8srbq76juqozrQt8oIodjOsaDeUpWlir2PpiKx6sFUuKg4njMXPoIR-E4VIIB8iIOScvK6qHKCejnOiFNSMnzvDVjWqiRnDsUKzXQ/s1209/20230813_155038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhcjg9VrmnnYaEhz_uBzAwCf4l3zwDmaAGGpBVN6hJjLavjODM7SgzIhyVVBuWqWOEfJFbNer4Aa9MnJgnllPtj8srbq76juqozrQt8oIodjOsaDeUpWlir2PpiKx6sFUuKg4njMXPoIR-E4VIIB8iIOScvK6qHKCejnOiFNSMnzvDVjWqiRnDsUKzXQ/s320/20230813_155038.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtxuiCvG6hyZy7KcG0ZJg-lMsyypxKOkiVNV9iOh0TxV_cbK8idbED_htxqCQQMseEGFBbEYwWhi2AyDdNC_xXsHX_53iJmacl_S8FA4fRWrIzml1JCghglwfP3a2Ht7FKhpnhYtxHhgTMGvlsF6Kgu1WtObtoctsNYIBthswvZEL0Hixs8cXxwVgt2eE/s1209/20230813_155049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtxuiCvG6hyZy7KcG0ZJg-lMsyypxKOkiVNV9iOh0TxV_cbK8idbED_htxqCQQMseEGFBbEYwWhi2AyDdNC_xXsHX_53iJmacl_S8FA4fRWrIzml1JCghglwfP3a2Ht7FKhpnhYtxHhgTMGvlsF6Kgu1WtObtoctsNYIBthswvZEL0Hixs8cXxwVgt2eE/s320/20230813_155049.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeOT_S7mExE7gd15WQaJmgqlHFGRwanUVyt1BWA9dPIe5GzWrV1Fbm0kXeTEWTC2NdhzuWtHystZO-dqz_QRsbfFkpjJu59sbVlQZaXvvmBYqyfmgaFzgp4SJ33K8klLNQzAPVKcwnck6LCBwNqc0_Nz9MzsxObm5jnEEdbdx4DeT16_pcXmsaOGVuYY/s1209/20230813_155149.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeOT_S7mExE7gd15WQaJmgqlHFGRwanUVyt1BWA9dPIe5GzWrV1Fbm0kXeTEWTC2NdhzuWtHystZO-dqz_QRsbfFkpjJu59sbVlQZaXvvmBYqyfmgaFzgp4SJ33K8klLNQzAPVKcwnck6LCBwNqc0_Nz9MzsxObm5jnEEdbdx4DeT16_pcXmsaOGVuYY/s320/20230813_155149.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo esserci fatti distrarre da tutta la mercanzia e l'umanità varia che popola il quartiere, arriviama alla Plaza de los Maiachis, luogo di nascita dell'omonima, famosissima musica. I musicisti in costume (chissà che caldo devono patire!) si aggirano nella zona pedonale in attesa di pubblico pagante (minimo 100 pesos, circa 5 euro, per una canzone). Non hanno gran fortuna, ma credo che la situazione si animi alla sera, quando i locali si riempiono.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmEhjcwxHyIDWy_I65iRiCng8qLbI8EpDueSWyYlAZGj5LBWkdLb1mMU-I-cWHdrTZ25H90stoS2HCJ4mVsWruZfoFv-W4DWQ1EsN7o6FRd5cCataJhDdo_bKgcE8KN3CGsS_4kmuOLArPz_uvdTXRrbsZVJnoEv2WciBVDxLCVftkM52NXGzrbxqI_S4/s1209/20230813_155214.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmEhjcwxHyIDWy_I65iRiCng8qLbI8EpDueSWyYlAZGj5LBWkdLb1mMU-I-cWHdrTZ25H90stoS2HCJ4mVsWruZfoFv-W4DWQ1EsN7o6FRd5cCataJhDdo_bKgcE8KN3CGsS_4kmuOLArPz_uvdTXRrbsZVJnoEv2WciBVDxLCVftkM52NXGzrbxqI_S4/s320/20230813_155214.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTe44cYanxrEbPkqLobAuPP5WQt-nxXbW8C2B9xTX28mzcS3RirzXPaDi56o1WIFkQtxCplnTySDcXmbrfEhb6FNBx7AP4eWZU_cLClOAv4A70zMr2QrC3nGTh2DB0h9jzKcayFmRefxxWa9OCpNgMv_WJ63rgziE0ePfzl3EfY59IbTD-1l0CVwIhipo/s1209/20230813_155307.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTe44cYanxrEbPkqLobAuPP5WQt-nxXbW8C2B9xTX28mzcS3RirzXPaDi56o1WIFkQtxCplnTySDcXmbrfEhb6FNBx7AP4eWZU_cLClOAv4A70zMr2QrC3nGTh2DB0h9jzKcayFmRefxxWa9OCpNgMv_WJ63rgziE0ePfzl3EfY59IbTD-1l0CVwIhipo/s320/20230813_155307.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMlqz6zLfXrLoBXJmYmj63KEj9iAmLKgz9kg8CfNyOAL6x7rjBC4rWvPoEgJnLrbw9_AdleCD1yH3oX68tZsduobDR8tnAlDBwMVV7IYdU9I3zqcoPf2UaintXtiKFG_pMoXwe6JtJ0gFOWAHrl7kUxWZ9N7yR_m2X5IhYmjGnYEpoOBqDE7dkvhQNkYc/s1209/20230813_155434.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMlqz6zLfXrLoBXJmYmj63KEj9iAmLKgz9kg8CfNyOAL6x7rjBC4rWvPoEgJnLrbw9_AdleCD1yH3oX68tZsduobDR8tnAlDBwMVV7IYdU9I3zqcoPf2UaintXtiKFG_pMoXwe6JtJ0gFOWAHrl7kUxWZ9N7yR_m2X5IhYmjGnYEpoOBqDE7dkvhQNkYc/s320/20230813_155434.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7Bdsu4ZFSuQqIABYu13SX0R1bmqfB3wwHS5-NBw5nNOrvaMDJHX9sSoIqpRLmb9CC_Ok1H1xTaWRPKRoRsqswwSVfAxo7Nusskslzm-8zqsXDi7Ryrl_R8LOKZl6OlQpY_gaVnAg3zr9GEZPlMiXpzrJkeOtacjOYMCSWFUVYaBuCAh4Qa1vIwUum4k/s1209/20230813_155458.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7Bdsu4ZFSuQqIABYu13SX0R1bmqfB3wwHS5-NBw5nNOrvaMDJHX9sSoIqpRLmb9CC_Ok1H1xTaWRPKRoRsqswwSVfAxo7Nusskslzm-8zqsXDi7Ryrl_R8LOKZl6OlQpY_gaVnAg3zr9GEZPlMiXpzrJkeOtacjOYMCSWFUVYaBuCAh4Qa1vIwUum4k/s320/20230813_155458.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdb0gd3nSPiAgcCfQrxWDwve-zB3KwmIDZxb6OD3HOJGIwfNHvAdwrVap8Iv5SfJkN57iGQLqL6xUEKhH34GvdJimwFULkkZmdz55ZdKFljBvHZkZpau0bbL96uHgA1sT6tJDNmL17XYYrT3KJpYow3ajc7Hf0whh842jFJy8nRjFuxRzrr73ZbIkVitU/s1209/20230813_155555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdb0gd3nSPiAgcCfQrxWDwve-zB3KwmIDZxb6OD3HOJGIwfNHvAdwrVap8Iv5SfJkN57iGQLqL6xUEKhH34GvdJimwFULkkZmdz55ZdKFljBvHZkZpau0bbL96uHgA1sT6tJDNmL17XYYrT3KJpYow3ajc7Hf0whh842jFJy8nRjFuxRzrr73ZbIkVitU/s320/20230813_155555.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiG1qo-zgSXjp8gRX4gTbQVOZknLYp2l_rFP3Bchcj76oFr2AjOmwlePMoMnoW7WieVsTdT8-WqgOU8k67t_AnUoHxr20d8jB4sfzWgAa669xjtvyxhZe8TzZYKDZiOhqJ4C8jRzFm1FRVIGV3N8MOOzbYmqxseXmu-lvMTXHnEOkNTAjLBNtPhF8Jms/s1209/20230813_155629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiG1qo-zgSXjp8gRX4gTbQVOZknLYp2l_rFP3Bchcj76oFr2AjOmwlePMoMnoW7WieVsTdT8-WqgOU8k67t_AnUoHxr20d8jB4sfzWgAa669xjtvyxhZe8TzZYKDZiOhqJ4C8jRzFm1FRVIGV3N8MOOzbYmqxseXmu-lvMTXHnEOkNTAjLBNtPhF8Jms/s320/20230813_155629.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsY73Jq9zZU1bTuSpEu_RJOZjiElO93GbKArGhkEdjM-SZ2XcNn5nXzsGqvl6GetOcLqBiP5w36vkCTDrqzoavO6tMO-7Et0xBHe79hD0276aL1OuK0rXqfv9fJo3Tk70T1H-kAQWu6MNv3RiAD7xqESDagKkwc98O-O2I7-E2_0tNC1QOFICemi5Toz4/s1209/20230813_160507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsY73Jq9zZU1bTuSpEu_RJOZjiElO93GbKArGhkEdjM-SZ2XcNn5nXzsGqvl6GetOcLqBiP5w36vkCTDrqzoavO6tMO-7Et0xBHe79hD0276aL1OuK0rXqfv9fJo3Tk70T1H-kAQWu6MNv3RiAD7xqESDagKkwc98O-O2I7-E2_0tNC1QOFICemi5Toz4/s320/20230813_160507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A questo punto, soddisfatti della visita e sufficientemente cotti, decidiamo di tornare in ostello a riposare. Io devo assolutamente riprendermi: domani si riparte per una tirata di una settimana che ci porterà a Mazatlan. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY6lWeU7BnRnSFk58HXhSYDP7GF8dR1VjYL2eSFWJsuxHPYaVkRlTmuE2Yvc3NBOy8ZYQ1IXb-4ZSq4hGsmcJSWHbCjoB1AaedGnCi2_-dik5a3hFseNU5SAZOTbfH4hfbHiqrsasMw0wmd85lGlLuoa1xHrbC14shT0S6_0od8UwUheRq6N7mfz0B3Mw/s1209/20230813_162744.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY6lWeU7BnRnSFk58HXhSYDP7GF8dR1VjYL2eSFWJsuxHPYaVkRlTmuE2Yvc3NBOy8ZYQ1IXb-4ZSq4hGsmcJSWHbCjoB1AaedGnCi2_-dik5a3hFseNU5SAZOTbfH4hfbHiqrsasMw0wmd85lGlLuoa1xHrbC14shT0S6_0od8UwUheRq6N7mfz0B3Mw/s320/20230813_162744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Una volta rientrati affiniamo per bene le tappe dei prossimi giorni. Dal Jalisco entreremo in Nayarit, e poi Sinaloa. Cambieremo ancora una volta fuso orario, portandoci a 9 ore di differenza rispetto all'Italia. Dopo alcuni ultimi strappi di montagna, rivedremo l'oceano. E poi ci imbarcheremo per la Baja California. Compro anche il biglietto per il traghetto: costicchia (118 euro a testa) ma include, oltre alla traversata di 14 ore, una poltrona deluxe tipo autobus prima classe, i pasti e i bagagli. La bici, a quanto pare, è considerata bagaglio e non si paga a parte. Salperemo tra una settimana, domenica 20, alle 16, per arrivare alle 6 del mattino del giorno dopo. Che avventura nell'avventura!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>14/8</div><div>Guadalajara-Magdalena</div><div>85km</div><div><br /></div><div>Una bella giornata, finalmente, per intero, dritta e fortunata dall'inizio alla fine! Dopo tante sfighe (piccole, eh, ma che sommate diventano pesanti da sopportare) la ruota della sorte ha fatto un mezzo giro, sorridendoci.</div><div>Dormo poco, nella notte, nel tentativo di risolvere i piccoli punti oscuri che ancora ci sono nel percorso dei prossimi giorni, fino a Mazatlan. Ci sono svincoli che rischiano di farci finire in autostrada (che è vietata in teoria, in pratica neanche troppo, ma resta pericolosa) e strade cieche che finiscono sulla costa e all'oceano come vicolo cieco. Quando tutto è abbastanza in ordine mancano poche ore alla sveglia, che mi sorprende poi tutta rincoglionita e sfatta. Infatti la partenza è lenta, lentissima. Mi sento un dinosauro, pesante, goffo e lento di cervello, ripescato dopo ere geologiche da un fossile e riportato alla vita dopo una lunga notte minerale. Alla fine il buon uomo che ci ha aperto la porta ieri l'altro, e che ho incrociato stanotte tutto ubriaco che biascicava da solo nei corridoi, non si palesa, e non ci fa pagare alcun extra "per la tv in camera", come aveva anticipato. Avrà rinunciato alla sua propina, insomma.</div><div>Quando il volposaurus rex si degna di muoversi, partiamo. Uscire dai tentacoli di Guadalajara, per fortuna, risulta molto più facile e meno mortifero di quanto non sia stato entrarci. Ci mettiamo su un bel vialone dritto e ci rimaniamo sopra per... 80km! All'inizio i semafori rallentano il passo, che è già lento, ma ci sono solo auto e moto e una civiltà urbana in senso proprio da parte dei guidatori. Passiamo dei bellissimi quartieri, residenziali, universitari e periferici, tra cui il lembo di Zapopan, dove si trova la famosa basilica con la statua della Vergine che i pellegrini seguono in ginocchio fino alla cattedrale di Guadalajara, ogni anno, il 12 ottobre, dal 1734.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguptvSG9co3FRd7ZErom9bHHCx6g8zo7Dej3mRfsCFdLbpAVGsulbOT6UK8h0QZd8g9g2I3BK3lnAuo9BV_T7V7YFPwjPsCpFarhx7agWkGF4WEnLz5nxrsO2DNOQLnR5vD_jCRMdAvtLxDKdgZbLEAleAQA6ZmuG_geTI7yulemkg208CagScF7RlQNc/s1209/20230814_085933.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguptvSG9co3FRd7ZErom9bHHCx6g8zo7Dej3mRfsCFdLbpAVGsulbOT6UK8h0QZd8g9g2I3BK3lnAuo9BV_T7V7YFPwjPsCpFarhx7agWkGF4WEnLz5nxrsO2DNOQLnR5vD_jCRMdAvtLxDKdgZbLEAleAQA6ZmuG_geTI7yulemkg208CagScF7RlQNc/s320/20230814_085933.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIgeow994KS8yaDq_Ac5eSp6JxpC32hr9JfmAlapvTeiIIpoTlPzliL6BFqKmxkJ3B4qlYulfsfRnaS14taFpHaSov2XOI7VJC04TuoqoNtUFRnoCmXNRO-wfDlBg2jD3pgkyzGSin4vJRbHpKNh13bQ8QoN5P4uhj9h1ssqqky2z5oyF3WVcOActDKsg/s1209/20230814_092219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIgeow994KS8yaDq_Ac5eSp6JxpC32hr9JfmAlapvTeiIIpoTlPzliL6BFqKmxkJ3B4qlYulfsfRnaS14taFpHaSov2XOI7VJC04TuoqoNtUFRnoCmXNRO-wfDlBg2jD3pgkyzGSin4vJRbHpKNh13bQ8QoN5P4uhj9h1ssqqky2z5oyF3WVcOActDKsg/s320/20230814_092219.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpA2Eno9txEeIJExGQuR5HHhzaFnyL_XydtkH8c9oaoQONQhmDj9W26xk3OTqowluRONImUopFhdi_Id43PBF7_cMpqqu9xBTcUuyDg6mX_GyvSAiNEUfoUD8CsMPEwk1oy1gYm8v7BYmv1xpkpYndhMgZZ1K2KDjk-xWG1MpMBQW7-V6X1cYM-9PA9M0/s1209/20230814_092409.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpA2Eno9txEeIJExGQuR5HHhzaFnyL_XydtkH8c9oaoQONQhmDj9W26xk3OTqowluRONImUopFhdi_Id43PBF7_cMpqqu9xBTcUuyDg6mX_GyvSAiNEUfoUD8CsMPEwk1oy1gYm8v7BYmv1xpkpYndhMgZZ1K2KDjk-xWG1MpMBQW7-V6X1cYM-9PA9M0/s320/20230814_092409.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una volta fuori dal perimetro urbano ritroviamo gli stradoni maledetti, con svincoli non più regolati da buon senso e semafori, ma dalla legge del più forte, del più stronzo, del si salvi chi può. Però, stavolta, il traffico è molto molto ridotto. Ci sono pochi autobus e i camion corrono un po' meno. Forse è perchè è la vigilia di Ferragosto, forse perchè è lunedì. Fatto sta che riusciamo a lasciarci Guadalajara alle spalle senza rischiare la muerte e senza sfanculare troppo (solo un po', il giusto) gli automobilisti irrispettosi. In breve siamo nella zona industriale esterna, che alterna parchi tecnologici che ammiccano a quelli statunitensi e aziende di lavorazione dei cereali. L'aria è pervasa da un odore di croccantini del gatto che penetra l'anima e la porta all'inferno in un girone basso. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3VX-GCUd6mMswBD95cal7x66e7hK2NRt3Cor7D0ItCO2gBvVCVzH-du1cRTcjASlESf2-S3LA_oMYydb_P5Ydn-nHhG-20y-SOC0v3N_c7jP2tpHl53cq87fo9kyqZfNcIu3ad_Hp_mu1eFPMt3yYq2b3g1tLAhn6A9wsZKk5wNnTiVl0uVDdQd96lfA/s1209/20230814_102559.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3VX-GCUd6mMswBD95cal7x66e7hK2NRt3Cor7D0ItCO2gBvVCVzH-du1cRTcjASlESf2-S3LA_oMYydb_P5Ydn-nHhG-20y-SOC0v3N_c7jP2tpHl53cq87fo9kyqZfNcIu3ad_Hp_mu1eFPMt3yYq2b3g1tLAhn6A9wsZKk5wNnTiVl0uVDdQd96lfA/s320/20230814_102559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWznpxq02lBPIg4W56egc_GHxd3o42jntF-pkihvOlqM6LNCwx9-vfH1TuQ1nSzMloUlEPfsLEZ12a2eSIVdu9TPrAo7SrhHyAC33SQ2JaVPiG8BYF56oBOekOuuprnFuUbkAy6LbgYYIf-LFZNiYDSYm0n48RsKMyWJ5xxsGVO6slaBRmpxu6GaWvbU/s1209/20230814_102949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWznpxq02lBPIg4W56egc_GHxd3o42jntF-pkihvOlqM6LNCwx9-vfH1TuQ1nSzMloUlEPfsLEZ12a2eSIVdu9TPrAo7SrhHyAC33SQ2JaVPiG8BYF56oBOekOuuprnFuUbkAy6LbgYYIf-LFZNiYDSYm0n48RsKMyWJ5xxsGVO6slaBRmpxu6GaWvbU/s320/20230814_102949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi finisce anche la periferia della periferia, e inizia il mare azzurro oceanico dei campi d'agave. Sarà il leitmotiv della giornata, in paesaggi pazzeschi che, non a caso, sono stati dichiarati patrimonio dell'umanità UNESCO. D'altronde stiamo pedalando nella valle di Tequila, tra paesi che basano, storicamente, la loro economia sulla produzione del famoso liquore. Il vento, teso, è oggi in poppa e ci spinge avanti a manate e scapaccioni. Le colline ci portano a perdere quota, tra brevi salitelle morbide e lunghe discese che sono un tuffo tra l'azzurro del cielo e quello delle agavi. Non mancano, qua e là, distillerie, che vendono i loro prodotti a km0 e offrono assaggi (pericolosamente gratuiti se poi ci si deve mettere al volante).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0kFToIeRJGDA39CT5pewy0QI0ErEh39d4Em36GvslKrpz26sOhrWuuOf9HrWb_TOxf_xc3rBxXYRIu1yobg5b2fJ8VjzrFyUPKutluqTNM1ifFcZ_7VZ4-1eTKMawRUv8kdUFqKcq-v7o1ifcZOHLyYpjMP9DkhUX_Soqsu2g3as8hWek2Cwz-NwVU3Q/s1209/20230814_103833.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0kFToIeRJGDA39CT5pewy0QI0ErEh39d4Em36GvslKrpz26sOhrWuuOf9HrWb_TOxf_xc3rBxXYRIu1yobg5b2fJ8VjzrFyUPKutluqTNM1ifFcZ_7VZ4-1eTKMawRUv8kdUFqKcq-v7o1ifcZOHLyYpjMP9DkhUX_Soqsu2g3as8hWek2Cwz-NwVU3Q/s320/20230814_103833.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1DLTjJfix2b1pIUXPHibwx3mbtfmhvenrkNFEgi3Hzz5F_kOlkK1baDvz3yGOVkcaWFnxWWNHg-PB-Ww5QBDX6BEM_cAj-xcEsP-SzPNic5tJMHc1t9V4f55Q_sFlrqJiG0cLjJDoPRbtKibmdicqM-euxWyKYW9XpWzNe1Z1q4dtT7j5s1rGwV8IHs4/s1209/20230814_103838.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1DLTjJfix2b1pIUXPHibwx3mbtfmhvenrkNFEgi3Hzz5F_kOlkK1baDvz3yGOVkcaWFnxWWNHg-PB-Ww5QBDX6BEM_cAj-xcEsP-SzPNic5tJMHc1t9V4f55Q_sFlrqJiG0cLjJDoPRbtKibmdicqM-euxWyKYW9XpWzNe1Z1q4dtT7j5s1rGwV8IHs4/s320/20230814_103838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRjxgkw39Zn4c8XI4xz7GgraNJl6DNdyyv6e57OOH7zOhAF5kRyQHwbekjshZLZnWhgFi1o7tloyVQzgWnkmO3Rbme8Mucyhgb4NKUlmD7zedhiEbhnrYrg6KtWJ3OTgj9DfzxErddd1bfwwIEg4-yzNmYuCb2lD0046w0CvNQDfE50cVocZhqTuCAfA8/s1209/20230814_105121.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRjxgkw39Zn4c8XI4xz7GgraNJl6DNdyyv6e57OOH7zOhAF5kRyQHwbekjshZLZnWhgFi1o7tloyVQzgWnkmO3Rbme8Mucyhgb4NKUlmD7zedhiEbhnrYrg6KtWJ3OTgj9DfzxErddd1bfwwIEg4-yzNmYuCb2lD0046w0CvNQDfE50cVocZhqTuCAfA8/s320/20230814_105121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f3IeaPCbN57jwilj3SROxWyZ7eGWMKPmoLc-goqVWyu1ERMc6EVu41ouJbRRbw0K14CiZzOJj4ZEcPxFse9s6pzIlPpMHcSoIaIpamXlySGLF1e4hkPkP2IChzXUvVOFZ0z-36sUHV1Y_9cuMAaO8R_d5FI5ClZvNU6PhAvvTUnPFeeIXVx3xrINw5A/s1209/20230814_110751.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f3IeaPCbN57jwilj3SROxWyZ7eGWMKPmoLc-goqVWyu1ERMc6EVu41ouJbRRbw0K14CiZzOJj4ZEcPxFse9s6pzIlPpMHcSoIaIpamXlySGLF1e4hkPkP2IChzXUvVOFZ0z-36sUHV1Y_9cuMAaO8R_d5FI5ClZvNU6PhAvvTUnPFeeIXVx3xrINw5A/s320/20230814_110751.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV5ov6tTAKdpArK_xz5Ix1hknsbsQUJ2GJ8j29QNWhIQpN2Q9v5yGoXM2gy6NlOxKYetn9sR0YxzcIVr40t37QI7JlRMdETXT64CK3Q-0XNDJiCez8RPr3i0f7oF21DcBoAqE5VQ8bbL4NeaXU782jGp26QfA_3vfDQiY0xf0YSz2ukWhwa7YhgL4kR4c/s1209/20230814_111222.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV5ov6tTAKdpArK_xz5Ix1hknsbsQUJ2GJ8j29QNWhIQpN2Q9v5yGoXM2gy6NlOxKYetn9sR0YxzcIVr40t37QI7JlRMdETXT64CK3Q-0XNDJiCez8RPr3i0f7oF21DcBoAqE5VQ8bbL4NeaXU782jGp26QfA_3vfDQiY0xf0YSz2ukWhwa7YhgL4kR4c/s320/20230814_111222.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8b5_Hl5b7Ci0RV1IWVENQITzPcQ-iP1Cz1wqAnkEyvPqyA-DECbl5CXmPHUdkP-ctQuUs_QtrKsXQJRNKLI85eRtpVCVCXOB9mYKwAxrafNb4xctsr6EEffoQuHn1HOVZUlFrWfJIVcX9RsNsPotH-V82d_Y8JFeA8uWViEkcfss9Y2Mek4KbU_YyemM/s1209/20230814_111645.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8b5_Hl5b7Ci0RV1IWVENQITzPcQ-iP1Cz1wqAnkEyvPqyA-DECbl5CXmPHUdkP-ctQuUs_QtrKsXQJRNKLI85eRtpVCVCXOB9mYKwAxrafNb4xctsr6EEffoQuHn1HOVZUlFrWfJIVcX9RsNsPotH-V82d_Y8JFeA8uWViEkcfss9Y2Mek4KbU_YyemM/s320/20230814_111645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo il primo paese dedito in gran parte alla produzione di tequila (che qui è maschile: el tequila), El Arenal. I primi abitanti furono i nahuas, attaccati prima dai purépecha, che volevano impadronirsi del territorio e delle saline sulla costa, poi, inevitabilmente dai conquistadores, che fondarono qui un villaggio, rimasto poca cosa fino al secolo scorso. Oggi l'economia gira intorno alla coltivazione di mais e agave, alla produzione di tequila e alla macellazione dei bovini. Dà l'idea di un posto di gran lavoratori che non disdegnano annegare la fatica nell'alcol, in effetti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQx5ZFoYZenTYy66S2ndf9NtiMR42iHDmhlEqrsCIZGdmb8r8yRMfuWSc0JJm4PJyDIUmm1-Jt5jju1kx73NfZbwMkqi10_3dToH7YStDr2TYa8a6xpsjfztk-_yBmqoJbi9fucFXyvvUY40BltI8pIkl_QbhTVIsOH6n4CDTl0-94aOE0AXVZVCz_av0/s1209/20230814_111918.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQx5ZFoYZenTYy66S2ndf9NtiMR42iHDmhlEqrsCIZGdmb8r8yRMfuWSc0JJm4PJyDIUmm1-Jt5jju1kx73NfZbwMkqi10_3dToH7YStDr2TYa8a6xpsjfztk-_yBmqoJbi9fucFXyvvUY40BltI8pIkl_QbhTVIsOH6n4CDTl0-94aOE0AXVZVCz_av0/s320/20230814_111918.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywWjEOiSO8SKSKvZj56G-vC6k8G-k8cskYzXcPF_bq_l6s8dvk1nDU4Qa8HRNNuvDw8qC_DHVPSSmGY47fbGIVtz3wNFFrMwd7-kFUqusneiNjB9iE7CoCdcXjYnDWRA5rlJZRh0M-Rjm3toQa3_JrnkYTyK2rKBBNZU9ybVpEoNFMpMkeBjI9MS6_wg/s1209/20230814_111923.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywWjEOiSO8SKSKvZj56G-vC6k8G-k8cskYzXcPF_bq_l6s8dvk1nDU4Qa8HRNNuvDw8qC_DHVPSSmGY47fbGIVtz3wNFFrMwd7-kFUqusneiNjB9iE7CoCdcXjYnDWRA5rlJZRh0M-Rjm3toQa3_JrnkYTyK2rKBBNZU9ybVpEoNFMpMkeBjI9MS6_wg/s320/20230814_111923.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Proseguiamo tra colline verdissime, striate di blu in file perfettamente geometriche. Già gli aztechi producevano un pulque (vino d'agave) ottenuto dalla fermentazione del succo di questa pianta. Ma la prima tequila fu prodotta da queste parti solo nel XVI secolo, quando gli spagnoli, finite le scorte di brandy, iniziarono a distillare il fermentato d'agave, creando uno dei primi distillati autoctoni del Nord America. Attorno al 1600 si iniziò a produrre massivamente l'alcolico, che venne tassato, riconosciuto con concessione dal re e, a fine '800 esportato negli USA da Don Cenobio Sauza, fondatore di Sauza Tequila e presidente municipale di Tequila. Il nipote portò avanti l'azienda, insistendo sulla necessità di tenere la produzione del distillato limitata al Jalisco. Oggi, per quanto alcune aziende siano ancora a conduzione familiare, i marchi più noti e commercializzati sono di proprietà di grandi multinazionali. 100 distillerie producono 900 marchi in Messico, dove ne sono registrati 2000. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKznKZB_U5IVdPZtt2EksypmuFHqJ0JE87n8e5wafRl7Wt9OM8BWa3iWiK3OosNKoSUYQVeu2KTpOPSAtJ3TozR6XbZ0cKmuWWIQegvIiY4yKEkTsNQClcL1dPX7wL6YTxGZhMwcY9ofLMO9QVJcdBF3eWfkytDQBZyIPzViSrYLJo7UmohQjLgg9YMW0/s1209/20230814_113512.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKznKZB_U5IVdPZtt2EksypmuFHqJ0JE87n8e5wafRl7Wt9OM8BWa3iWiK3OosNKoSUYQVeu2KTpOPSAtJ3TozR6XbZ0cKmuWWIQegvIiY4yKEkTsNQClcL1dPX7wL6YTxGZhMwcY9ofLMO9QVJcdBF3eWfkytDQBZyIPzViSrYLJo7UmohQjLgg9YMW0/s320/20230814_113512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmWgU_fNHOpY7_I-oeloGPDKdKGh06vvRJm_RjuBRHTevVJ-YY99kLaD_xSmggGMg1HdVxQjtzNb_xAPaziPzqXGnlb1YbusaTxAbapg-sXlqWXaudQ4bUOjGdpZaWck2H5_9zcgMwBOTl_9lURJoLYmqdj5w7XhQvOBMkJ9IS9_b5DPYevFy9nv2ip0/s1205/20230814_113557.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="1205" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmWgU_fNHOpY7_I-oeloGPDKdKGh06vvRJm_RjuBRHTevVJ-YY99kLaD_xSmggGMg1HdVxQjtzNb_xAPaziPzqXGnlb1YbusaTxAbapg-sXlqWXaudQ4bUOjGdpZaWck2H5_9zcgMwBOTl_9lURJoLYmqdj5w7XhQvOBMkJ9IS9_b5DPYevFy9nv2ip0/s320/20230814_113557.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMogxUVVPZ_H32HfYn1MdZlGRWDFwICzd3LUln8-po9y7Z_STa2EmAPRemrx4k8ZdM9tB1-qyXU44TbP_Fd6e_liAArOXsBodHuES0zuXHfXDVeFfQiiy5veas0wtPL6ay27nLA9b4Qgrm1iTmg1it9pW9YipW1YIzduKVXpE_2jSDdSUrXML7eJQi-0/s1124/20230814_113559.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="1124" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMogxUVVPZ_H32HfYn1MdZlGRWDFwICzd3LUln8-po9y7Z_STa2EmAPRemrx4k8ZdM9tB1-qyXU44TbP_Fd6e_liAArOXsBodHuES0zuXHfXDVeFfQiiy5veas0wtPL6ay27nLA9b4Qgrm1iTmg1it9pW9YipW1YIzduKVXpE_2jSDdSUrXML7eJQi-0/s320/20230814_113559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriviamo in breve ad Amatitan, dove ci accoglie la statua del jimador, il coltivatore d'agave, che sfronda il cuore della pianta in modo da ottenere la piña pulita; il jimador pota e cura le piante e sa perfettamente quando sono mature e ricche di zuccheri per fermentare correttamente. Questo lavoro è rimasto sostanzialmente immutato nei secoli e fa parte di un bagaglio di conoscenze tradizionali trasmesse di generazione in generazione. </div><div>Anche non mancano le distillerie aperte al pubblico di estimatori, che si segnalano con statue di agave, bottiglioni o jarritos, i bicchieri di terracotta in cui viene servita la tequila, con sale e limone.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjHtjSbgU8bjjdUT0rihHgmQ-E4IqNeT7E7iOXw8JlxqvlaD2tUK2vWjmq5VWhT_45VuZRsAp1kXKdH1inwtZnZ-6IdUJXFE88F_aE16yLuBwT4geN7dcd0vCQIas3qp2S2LgdO6SkigosaJmuXnMOetEkWs15TOyX8x45mOz-8wfzyVp4vQrJN_mG0c/s1209/20230814_114640.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjHtjSbgU8bjjdUT0rihHgmQ-E4IqNeT7E7iOXw8JlxqvlaD2tUK2vWjmq5VWhT_45VuZRsAp1kXKdH1inwtZnZ-6IdUJXFE88F_aE16yLuBwT4geN7dcd0vCQIas3qp2S2LgdO6SkigosaJmuXnMOetEkWs15TOyX8x45mOz-8wfzyVp4vQrJN_mG0c/s320/20230814_114640.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-j1IXWAp0rV26-ohucYbNaryNetmYPuzjxnARk4q8vO1E0H0m3tyUyBUg-af1ljwzKgawSr5PTUja2JNEYFUBHMewGAPU_F_SDME2JcZuuovlrzZq96M1QbO3FCLTjpxaskACQVTsYum9nRRChVjhur9ukBKY2RjKwFemdCQlmZMq57lvZEUxlcnTFho/s1209/20230814_120117.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-j1IXWAp0rV26-ohucYbNaryNetmYPuzjxnARk4q8vO1E0H0m3tyUyBUg-af1ljwzKgawSr5PTUja2JNEYFUBHMewGAPU_F_SDME2JcZuuovlrzZq96M1QbO3FCLTjpxaskACQVTsYum9nRRChVjhur9ukBKY2RjKwFemdCQlmZMq57lvZEUxlcnTFho/s320/20230814_120117.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYC5oryACGfgCWkY7GWO7IJ1YghBXY-lWfVun7jTLiM0x4arXqXK4y4J5VauL24xsC-nncDMv17oyhzZS_opKFmyv883mZn9bHjdJDoYEzd5A6cfw0SygfonA4JgmlHWUtPIhw_ux10iPpPQ2g7Cx0KDTaLBMZWkuoLmTckC0wAnyFYzLfGDaeYqFYlM8/s1209/20230814_120119.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYC5oryACGfgCWkY7GWO7IJ1YghBXY-lWfVun7jTLiM0x4arXqXK4y4J5VauL24xsC-nncDMv17oyhzZS_opKFmyv883mZn9bHjdJDoYEzd5A6cfw0SygfonA4JgmlHWUtPIhw_ux10iPpPQ2g7Cx0KDTaLBMZWkuoLmTckC0wAnyFYzLfGDaeYqFYlM8/s320/20230814_120119.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEDqyxpJrRXbJmuxgpgqFKRg6WPgSiO_s8HCcW5QnlAFxjp_5bShBmdhA4-1g6zG9hGuY8BSm_kSVQlYkc9h1pSk4RGxRZpHhzOjnepWGtDKITa9j3jeIjd8DYGENZXclXrVqqBqwqCG_4S_T85HW3qslAsday6eXGy-6adPEU1D6Rpi6zfCD3XZHC7s/s1209/20230814_120142.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEDqyxpJrRXbJmuxgpgqFKRg6WPgSiO_s8HCcW5QnlAFxjp_5bShBmdhA4-1g6zG9hGuY8BSm_kSVQlYkc9h1pSk4RGxRZpHhzOjnepWGtDKITa9j3jeIjd8DYGENZXclXrVqqBqwqCG_4S_T85HW3qslAsday6eXGy-6adPEU1D6Rpi6zfCD3XZHC7s/s320/20230814_120142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_QRL9swf7IjMbdms_vnmjErM_6SHR9DSfNfs40Ps9dewgziTwkvYfKLmYBRZ_mnUAKjsNP5dTe2rct791Wy-RMU2sOG9at98tWJjkhefScN95_V1mPhP2kL0s8-Xl-QkszeGTEULPRe1gkpYu1bQSfoVlZsAmH1Bc2xhdAh8fEHIhaNhDPkRd8JsOMg/s1209/20230814_120213.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_QRL9swf7IjMbdms_vnmjErM_6SHR9DSfNfs40Ps9dewgziTwkvYfKLmYBRZ_mnUAKjsNP5dTe2rct791Wy-RMU2sOG9at98tWJjkhefScN95_V1mPhP2kL0s8-Xl-QkszeGTEULPRe1gkpYu1bQSfoVlZsAmH1Bc2xhdAh8fEHIhaNhDPkRd8JsOMg/s320/20230814_120213.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ancora due colpi di pedale ed eccoci nella capitale del distillato, la città di Tequila, il cui toponimo deriva dal nahutl "luogo dei tributi". Ha ottenuto lo status di pueblo magico, e, in effetti, lasciata la caotica periferia, ha un centro delizioso e delle haciendas in stile coloniale di grande raffinatezza (i proprietari, storicamente, non se la passano male, diciamo). In origine qui abitavano diverse etnie: chichimecas, otomì, toltechi. La regione fu annessa alla Nueva Galicia nel 1530 ma i nativi tentarono la via delle armi, per poi essere costretti ad arrendersi, in apparenza pacificamente. Dopo la fondazione della città, però, si ribellarono e scannarono numerosi spagnoli, soprattutto i frati. Nel 1600 fu aperta la prima distilleria e nell'800 i governatori della città soffocarono una rivolta e furono promossi a vicerè del Perù.</div><div><br /></div><div>Decidiamo di lasciare un attimo la traccia per entrare in paese e visitare la piazza centrale. Ci sono tanti turisti, quasi tutti messicani. Molti sono stipati su pullmini a forma di botte di invecchiamento, giustamente. I venditori di souvenir bruttini e tour che noi, da astemi, non sapremmo apprezzare, sgomitano per accaparrarsi clienti. In piazza, oltre alle belle chiese, ci sono altri mercatini abbastanza monotematici, ragazzini che si offrono di scattare foto ai gruppi per qualche spicciolo e un gruppo di acrobati in abiti tradizionali che, dopo essersi arrampicati su un palo di una quindicina di metri, si lanciano a testa in giù appesi a corde, roteando lentamente verso terra mentre uno resta in cima a suonare un flauto. Una cuccagna al contrario, praticamente!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXXPoRtVeEdlIsytvzLqFx5ieMBPaB97S0s7jpzs_4GvOZpANUA5OmNWCEp4wWD-E0dOFdKfi1Ryul-e9Ji5NOQuSmvgwihf8brB0tNTbAXDMXvj0V8_KLFS822KDh3VHooU8NkG9AmnrlHQTOapMAYhLdlf6ZEy-azICewjVPjcYgyac0Xsb7G2n4w8/s1209/20230814_122407.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZXXPoRtVeEdlIsytvzLqFx5ieMBPaB97S0s7jpzs_4GvOZpANUA5OmNWCEp4wWD-E0dOFdKfi1Ryul-e9Ji5NOQuSmvgwihf8brB0tNTbAXDMXvj0V8_KLFS822KDh3VHooU8NkG9AmnrlHQTOapMAYhLdlf6ZEy-azICewjVPjcYgyac0Xsb7G2n4w8/s320/20230814_122407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhckMiNjhV6dZ4jCCc3hhsD9euISKgLXDRZSy0EUnpleO1bMvIhgDhfPhVUnQMYnzI1EMp0OWJ6WcXVpQ6S4cRL3vCozHK2OhR6qtRN55BslDh9DTCdtElwuTgC4KTehCqX50p_D4Nrr2waqlaMljxvg4UKBOyo9jnlhaek4PPLfgwDjiJxcZgPzJgugS8/s1209/20230814_123115.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhckMiNjhV6dZ4jCCc3hhsD9euISKgLXDRZSy0EUnpleO1bMvIhgDhfPhVUnQMYnzI1EMp0OWJ6WcXVpQ6S4cRL3vCozHK2OhR6qtRN55BslDh9DTCdtElwuTgC4KTehCqX50p_D4Nrr2waqlaMljxvg4UKBOyo9jnlhaek4PPLfgwDjiJxcZgPzJgugS8/s320/20230814_123115.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpXtdsS0bRu-c-21GaIrZBKLK1aItiT0_vmdO-Ue5wA0pn3O5R8ngJan8Tr9ALmYvDtNblJ3LBVQ1qn81onUcapiMhrw2sEyGt4l3csirhYAeeZ7OYlgREsIFPn_YOP_ShJinDm-SJUgUsBM6A1u0BC1N6OMLYLot13kDPnpMddSbF_izDLXTOlbW4bF8/s1209/20230814_123258.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpXtdsS0bRu-c-21GaIrZBKLK1aItiT0_vmdO-Ue5wA0pn3O5R8ngJan8Tr9ALmYvDtNblJ3LBVQ1qn81onUcapiMhrw2sEyGt4l3csirhYAeeZ7OYlgREsIFPn_YOP_ShJinDm-SJUgUsBM6A1u0BC1N6OMLYLot13kDPnpMddSbF_izDLXTOlbW4bF8/s320/20230814_123258.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuPgnJYre3pKpQ-iFgjGfPOafNfxW5XcpjaQVNpVkRgCSf7vptUbUzJrX1TCdpfmxrvm25XrwHGand-XF7UU2-D4xx0KBS7akvjYbCyzXsdyKMOBCt2DCKeTnFe-b_F5bqx_QMI6iqgYk1JSiWzJXJlTW5uDc-yDJRcguRYHy8jGyxNML_RadDyCzU324/s320/20230814_125609.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiNPuctZELAIk0HJXxnTJ7dhHSFJUyW6jPot2kY7LWiFb251bHudJJdHJEKjEEYKXszX1WQdhB9-Mx1CJyMiyXHkpdY9t3BN_SvXrSc1U0xog0gGRFwjcQkgOOucBmN0VmM5MX4JIVn9LatSfzZeqhIll8VP5-OGEBazk-YDBzEgFM2nAziZP6GncXwU/s1209/20230814_125611.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiNPuctZELAIk0HJXxnTJ7dhHSFJUyW6jPot2kY7LWiFb251bHudJJdHJEKjEEYKXszX1WQdhB9-Mx1CJyMiyXHkpdY9t3BN_SvXrSc1U0xog0gGRFwjcQkgOOucBmN0VmM5MX4JIVn9LatSfzZeqhIll8VP5-OGEBazk-YDBzEgFM2nAziZP6GncXwU/s320/20230814_125611.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo le dovute foto, una sostina e quattro chiacchiere con un venditore di tour che ci avvicina per proporci un giro ma poi si incuriosisce e ci fa mille domande, ripartiamo. Mancano solo 20km all'arrivo, è ancora presto e fa un caldo terrificante. Siamo scesi molto, ci aggiriamo intorno ai 1000m di quota, e l'afa è tornata prepotente. Le salitelle diventano un bagno di sudore e di pelle bruciata, ma i paesaggi intorno si fanno ancora più spettacolari. La roccia è pura ossidiana, che emerge dal terreno secco e brilla, lucente, nerissima, al sole. Le onde ordinate di agave blu tingono i fianchi delle colline e sembra di essere su un pianeta diverso, fertile e ben ordinato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRZDP5c4dWtrbuhoXagXeOBd34TQUVB7JiOUtjvvrKLPp569aEGIBJGWLOX7W2ojACo_WnzE_KD_2JBWZ3VHSSC8VF5SIwzynTguD85TdRxHJu_-F-bV1PmGB56BZQM9BfUZ0aRqWPhI19n4M_ZUSYuZ7OW-rrb7FndnQDksRw-tmqz451SLSSx-jSf5s/s1209/20230814_135152.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRZDP5c4dWtrbuhoXagXeOBd34TQUVB7JiOUtjvvrKLPp569aEGIBJGWLOX7W2ojACo_WnzE_KD_2JBWZ3VHSSC8VF5SIwzynTguD85TdRxHJu_-F-bV1PmGB56BZQM9BfUZ0aRqWPhI19n4M_ZUSYuZ7OW-rrb7FndnQDksRw-tmqz451SLSSx-jSf5s/s320/20230814_135152.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: justify;">Arriviamo così, con gli occhi colmi di meraviglia, a Magdalena, la nostra meta di oggi. Prima si chiamava Xochitepec, "monte florido", ma prese poi lo stesso nome di battesimo della figlia del cacicco che governava questa zona, convertitasi ai tempi della conquista. Un tempo qui c'era un lago, ora prosciugato, e sulle sue due isole vivevano i tecuexes (etnia chichimeca). Si sottomisero formalmente agli spagnoli ma tentarono ben due rivolte armate, entrambe fallimentari, alleandosi ad altri gruppi indigeni. La città è famosa per le miniere di opale, e per la lavorazione artigianale di questa pietra.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non a caso il nostro hotel si chiama "Minas real"; è un bell'edificio storico in pieno centro, con una caffetteria e pasticceria al pian terreno. Quando arriviamo c'è un ragazzo seduto su una cassetta di legno che apre biscotti Oreo, ne cava la crema, la mette da parte, e poi raccoglie le metà spolpate in sacchettini ordinati. Non ci facciamo domande, è pur sempre un'occupazione. Abbiamo una prenotazione, fatta ieri sia via Facebook sia al telefono. Ovviamente non risulta, e il prezzo, che sul sito è 300 pesos e al telefono era diventato 450, ora sale a 500. Vabe', è comunque poco per i nostri standard, ma che furbacchioni! Comunque è un must qui fare i prezzi in base alla faccia del cliente. Anche nei negozi, nelle bancarelle e nei mercati va così. Però poi si lamentano del razzismo quando è subito? Spero di no, la moneta è la medesima.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Pago e mi fanno firmare una sorta di ricevuta nella quale è specificato l'intero corredo della camera (asciugamani in numero di due, telecomandi in numero di due, coperta una, cuscini tre, ecc); il papiro viene vergato a mano davanti ai miei occhi, e l'operazione richiede un buon tempo. Poi si passa ad un papiro ancora più largo, con la ricevuta, in doppia copia, timbrata, sigillata, rimirata in contro luce. Mancano cera lacca e penna d'oca gigante e ci siamo. La chiave, nemmeno a dirlo, sembra finta da tanto è stereotipata: lunga 30cm, in metallo pieno, pesantissima, arrugginita, come quella delle segrete di un castello medievale. Finite queste operazioni, possiamo finalmente accomodarci.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">La camera, ampia e accogliente, ha un balconcino che affaccia sulla via centrale. Ora che è presto e fa ancora caldo è semideserta. Io, che non sono ancora al 100 ma neanche al 70, crollo in un sonno comatoso di due ore prima ancora di entrare in doccia, vestita da bici come sono.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrpjLBA6V_S0g55wSWo06g87jSTplWkj0eYIsgaVz-xtSbCKI0lqj2K3JRt4XjWWSMFc-F3VKQSlEffZc6ApnWUZFSf78QYMfkQwLkRzkXb8R8FKFyeqVUR8j26nKPFcLGA9ez_4FeOd33XtMpDRhY9Son9ljTRc0nYL2ysu_wUcaCz7XqYaMPbSHU4M/s979/20230814_152051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrpjLBA6V_S0g55wSWo06g87jSTplWkj0eYIsgaVz-xtSbCKI0lqj2K3JRt4XjWWSMFc-F3VKQSlEffZc6ApnWUZFSf78QYMfkQwLkRzkXb8R8FKFyeqVUR8j26nKPFcLGA9ez_4FeOd33XtMpDRhY9Son9ljTRc0nYL2ysu_wUcaCz7XqYaMPbSHU4M/s320/20230814_152051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGS4NgDLFlJngIoVncv8dpxcFnzmbatMIjtg_wZPus9Q2APhmiTT_jToA8QBQCtP-onpa76DfTkVqUwR4KCRIusAQY5Sr-zhWF1fNOt8S_G8mP9QMAQKv7tWbNJurla0rIORVu5xuU1ybgRMd1pAf24AP5NJolw0SIZWsi9ST4j7iqh04clAaLch51VM/s1209/20230814_152100.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGS4NgDLFlJngIoVncv8dpxcFnzmbatMIjtg_wZPus9Q2APhmiTT_jToA8QBQCtP-onpa76DfTkVqUwR4KCRIusAQY5Sr-zhWF1fNOt8S_G8mP9QMAQKv7tWbNJurla0rIORVu5xuU1ybgRMd1pAf24AP5NJolw0SIZWsi9ST4j7iqh04clAaLch51VM/s320/20230814_152100.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHAi5DTNX4l0Dt2dLtI9rYjAdXq8R9D-CAyES6ddJ5TTmBZ27Kt0_PojFIEAYH15kcb2mIdt09ipgHBSkOLRhrfTnkUi4swrIIm_8M40R6EkhPXn_P_0tVI9JcWp_k4KB7zLX2Z9Y5MasXrtpJfJd-jsTRbk7v48inJCyl0O_EyFAYarwxB4dNJU8jd0/s1209/20230814_152438.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHAi5DTNX4l0Dt2dLtI9rYjAdXq8R9D-CAyES6ddJ5TTmBZ27Kt0_PojFIEAYH15kcb2mIdt09ipgHBSkOLRhrfTnkUi4swrIIm_8M40R6EkhPXn_P_0tVI9JcWp_k4KB7zLX2Z9Y5MasXrtpJfJd-jsTRbk7v48inJCyl0O_EyFAYarwxB4dNJU8jd0/s320/20230814_152438.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvd322FWXSzexh6W4etpThWVseg9eZyQSPEieTYk3RcjHi3RLMfsJrA7Md31Q_mkgFKqUnCt7AX-6HyYjCi_YtjYx0YZbTx4IrpF3lGnO1G21OIjbCHc04B7yT5X9hO5U8TBs0kJxbCYYu4UG3vOvwusByuiK4nVpr2szlG7sj70EQfJB4w_7_vg8cJiQ/s1209/20230814_152445.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvd322FWXSzexh6W4etpThWVseg9eZyQSPEieTYk3RcjHi3RLMfsJrA7Md31Q_mkgFKqUnCt7AX-6HyYjCi_YtjYx0YZbTx4IrpF3lGnO1G21OIjbCHc04B7yT5X9hO5U8TBs0kJxbCYYu4UG3vOvwusByuiK4nVpr2szlG7sj70EQfJB4w_7_vg8cJiQ/s320/20230814_152445.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MUm55FbbW8ZdSKTEh17tziKNjS6yaSMjEKv-tEnbs_PW8WRKipwDVcjkA1Ddo5TzE7k9Rw36RCw_2yAuNTsXPgCMvLN2z0Sz3W5t7aTAsJFQW0uLOzMnKaIitgy8CkJW5Niz6_iwQl_CK27Ds_8uGDoibm_0BWLYANVIrF55F6SeZQ915Q5c1AH-Ieg/s1209/20230814_152454.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MUm55FbbW8ZdSKTEh17tziKNjS6yaSMjEKv-tEnbs_PW8WRKipwDVcjkA1Ddo5TzE7k9Rw36RCw_2yAuNTsXPgCMvLN2z0Sz3W5t7aTAsJFQW0uLOzMnKaIitgy8CkJW5Niz6_iwQl_CK27Ds_8uGDoibm_0BWLYANVIrF55F6SeZQ915Q5c1AH-Ieg/s320/20230814_152454.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYGjJdaeOOH3VhN2ykP75ytBp9K1frYp8NYxvpE4mBvwhFMPh7v0xQdNFrb1XlHmUIfU8cydAJC_QaVZIEhJx4UFsgEcvQMbpPbnhQ4lBLiTab0vzFsdcpgeqjHk-2oY88JQJD52pn8DNVMEie7vTeXU0PyqQNJbxGI1LqhypgzetEuDENMnRlbeViZVE/s1209/20230814_152459.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYGjJdaeOOH3VhN2ykP75ytBp9K1frYp8NYxvpE4mBvwhFMPh7v0xQdNFrb1XlHmUIfU8cydAJC_QaVZIEhJx4UFsgEcvQMbpPbnhQ4lBLiTab0vzFsdcpgeqjHk-2oY88JQJD52pn8DNVMEie7vTeXU0PyqQNJbxGI1LqhypgzetEuDENMnRlbeViZVE/s320/20230814_152459.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhstfiek0tEIY0IKwuL1qWAc1MUxJE5fANDEljwTHG_tGDNldqJzxqQKncG0GQJsTga2Fhd3VTHsUtKQsBWDags-mP2flOJ9Ote-_mnIUXJfWL5-kEh7-WzvR4ut-PutAhH31W-IapfySWLwx0Flzw5PF2G2HJEQuP_GdckjFOX98VWkr9APggISANU_nw/s1209/20230814_152617.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhstfiek0tEIY0IKwuL1qWAc1MUxJE5fANDEljwTHG_tGDNldqJzxqQKncG0GQJsTga2Fhd3VTHsUtKQsBWDags-mP2flOJ9Ote-_mnIUXJfWL5-kEh7-WzvR4ut-PutAhH31W-IapfySWLwx0Flzw5PF2G2HJEQuP_GdckjFOX98VWkr9APggISANU_nw/s320/20230814_152617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando riemergo dal mondo dei più la luce ha preso un color caramello ambrato che glassa le case e le strade, e la via inizia ad animarsi. Compaiono alcune bancarelle di vestiti, di accessori per cellulari e di cibarie. Dopo la doccia scendo a ungere le catene delle bici, luride e secche, poi facciamo una passeggiata in paese. Veniamo guardati come marziani, un po' perchè qui, di gringos, ne passano pochi, un po' perchè maglietta, pantaloncini e ciabatte mettono in risalto la nostra tragicomica abbronzatura. Nè Gigi nè io siamo mai stati così tanto scuri nelle parti esposte al sole, che contrastano con la nostra carnagione che è, di base, molto chiara. Infatti gli sguardi della gente vanno dal viso, dove si soffermano qualche istante, ai piedi, lattei, che sembrano muniti di calzino perchè alla caviglia inizia la fascia scura. Siamo zebrati, signori, non vi stupite.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkYCXiWoMgPWXX5_x78ioL1ATObyjK4Ti80F2j841gw7IUA19g5auVwKAqfuS83tJ0QREPt5QXelNbjUtPXy0jfL96nykG3fjd-5pH2ErXG0vvpn5Vqw48BU4UqbwMDt82RlaWZzfL2xr-4G-T1m6oSgbdWX9Wry2cQGiYUQhURVT7Gp8rPkeptuBDLs/s1209/20230814_183014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVkYCXiWoMgPWXX5_x78ioL1ATObyjK4Ti80F2j841gw7IUA19g5auVwKAqfuS83tJ0QREPt5QXelNbjUtPXy0jfL96nykG3fjd-5pH2ErXG0vvpn5Vqw48BU4UqbwMDt82RlaWZzfL2xr-4G-T1m6oSgbdWX9Wry2cQGiYUQhURVT7Gp8rPkeptuBDLs/s320/20230814_183014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ00kKenX8MKMgreSLS53aTZkL4IS9RCRXf5rtNWr9jUKubYBeE7gGtjq7E0N77QY12YrW3uHi3Yv0eirP0OXwiRq8xxGlkHP13rAAJAPggqRP79iefj51aqKCDpVY35VHCpRIq8dXWExxqBWzJAFg6rFsmSmXePAqEDyqN38DT8O0pc7_Yo-iKDfardc/s979/20230814_185052.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ00kKenX8MKMgreSLS53aTZkL4IS9RCRXf5rtNWr9jUKubYBeE7gGtjq7E0N77QY12YrW3uHi3Yv0eirP0OXwiRq8xxGlkHP13rAAJAPggqRP79iefj51aqKCDpVY35VHCpRIq8dXWExxqBWzJAFg6rFsmSmXePAqEDyqN38DT8O0pc7_Yo-iKDfardc/s320/20230814_185052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo la piazza centrale, su cui affacciano due chiese del XVI secolo le cui campane scandiscono il tempo ogni mezzora, anche di notte. E' in corso una funzione, e tanti affollano le panche. Altrettanti, però, restano fuori, accanto al sagrato, ad assistere ad una combattutissima partita di pallavolo femminile. Le giocatrici sono donne tra i 20 e i 40 anni, a tenere i punti c'è un bambino che ha preso il ruolo molto seriamente e l'arbitro è un ragazzo che non perde un dettaglio di ciò che avviene in campo. Intorno, sui gradini, famiglie, adolescenti e anziani vestiti da cowboy, con camicia, baffo e cappello.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4uEa40PkndVPNr1TDBkkZjJf_ncc0Ju7S5-piA5RQ1A3uZA6SVIcJQFasyiA7PNTvwMdOqdowUEVfmYZYo6h9O-4pg80GTLqE9W1G2OCjZq5ayfbDCLylNzplUyHXC_OAgYKZFReg7N2zV1OaZ3JLkxmtRchNS8EQG8yeLwaDkHH3cX3SCRtHzk6xmLU/s979/20230814_190020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4uEa40PkndVPNr1TDBkkZjJf_ncc0Ju7S5-piA5RQ1A3uZA6SVIcJQFasyiA7PNTvwMdOqdowUEVfmYZYo6h9O-4pg80GTLqE9W1G2OCjZq5ayfbDCLylNzplUyHXC_OAgYKZFReg7N2zV1OaZ3JLkxmtRchNS8EQG8yeLwaDkHH3cX3SCRtHzk6xmLU/s320/20230814_190020.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0J0XSvXSvSzY0Z9df27097yDvMOTL_VWmQ2VgytBxSB9LzwnEHI3VJECDJhpKctaTUkY7ld-cE06HVzqEkkqDH_H7ezWMxACPUL6MSQigAS2NWIgLdXGnwBmSUaam0Lo30Lg3mgkZ7bs7GkCpLgBx4-7_1VRd665iPwK7zRUJ33c_P7z-sur9cJLTqog/s1209/20230814_190108.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0J0XSvXSvSzY0Z9df27097yDvMOTL_VWmQ2VgytBxSB9LzwnEHI3VJECDJhpKctaTUkY7ld-cE06HVzqEkkqDH_H7ezWMxACPUL6MSQigAS2NWIgLdXGnwBmSUaam0Lo30Lg3mgkZ7bs7GkCpLgBx4-7_1VRd665iPwK7zRUJ33c_P7z-sur9cJLTqog/s320/20230814_190108.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnybEfO3FYzyfbwSliS63TzrF3iiPgzfdEMzBuAkabZQOUexsmoYuw4FFL44M3utxxGRAxjDFr9JY8FeDllo7BYKiJv51Kb45mSfswQHrcUyECeDwm37a2p1-vkqv3ZThtEHSGlWkvNk_y0dm_WgjZKvDvfU36tvomHgz22co1WzfwxbzefDnTa0hnPcc/s979/20230814_190210.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnybEfO3FYzyfbwSliS63TzrF3iiPgzfdEMzBuAkabZQOUexsmoYuw4FFL44M3utxxGRAxjDFr9JY8FeDllo7BYKiJv51Kb45mSfswQHrcUyECeDwm37a2p1-vkqv3ZThtEHSGlWkvNk_y0dm_WgjZKvDvfU36tvomHgz22co1WzfwxbzefDnTa0hnPcc/s320/20230814_190210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqecCoFfSiBuB0rrx0zBZSug8_LSFHxPozVkPX62WY5kRqvl7bzqxV2TmxxaUYfbTL1wzF0mCqP8i4izgUZkc-L5rj41OvXJN-86bJ7AiO4pSJ868gVpg_i1s8R4SXlz27x7fiKyUDUwOr73SWLqGsr8qjZjOlz1octBFMFZTd1qm3Jj_eGiD6WK1XaF8/s1209/20230814_190231.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqecCoFfSiBuB0rrx0zBZSug8_LSFHxPozVkPX62WY5kRqvl7bzqxV2TmxxaUYfbTL1wzF0mCqP8i4izgUZkc-L5rj41OvXJN-86bJ7AiO4pSJ868gVpg_i1s8R4SXlz27x7fiKyUDUwOr73SWLqGsr8qjZjOlz1octBFMFZTd1qm3Jj_eGiD6WK1XaF8/s320/20230814_190231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La piazza, su cui sta tramontando il sole, è animata da bancarelle di tacos, tamales e pannocchie bollite, nonchè da un mercatino coperto dell'artigianato. C'è anche una lunghissima coda per la vendita dei biglietti della rifa, la lotteria. che promette ricchi premi in denaro e viaggi a Cancun. Mi viene una pazza voglia di tentar la sorte, ma l'estrazione sarà solo a fine agosto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqsxH5SEY3l6KX-UxRy6ad-gcXJlzLAUZ9tW_ypMQNlLtBy4XIErFqUdxRR8eGP5ikN1bMKnTJC7TPwS4Ovn1CREFuneynKJQgX3oMbSg6VptLtDLJkbgwikukbE24Af0EBzhMJQwSLmICG0BCaL-vYaNkrbGkUVYQPJxKrlE58oYrCFOdscqIE7vaUY/s1147/20230814_190332.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1147" data-original-width="860" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqsxH5SEY3l6KX-UxRy6ad-gcXJlzLAUZ9tW_ypMQNlLtBy4XIErFqUdxRR8eGP5ikN1bMKnTJC7TPwS4Ovn1CREFuneynKJQgX3oMbSg6VptLtDLJkbgwikukbE24Af0EBzhMJQwSLmICG0BCaL-vYaNkrbGkUVYQPJxKrlE58oYrCFOdscqIE7vaUY/s320/20230814_190332.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD99PxZhUOw8nhqzo03Qdq9pgdcfYNe4ERk3wEO4qj91aS5-oe7zvPlIpS2061KsVt0cW3vwZAEasSF4Wtky-eHOkaQ8-Ra5mixW-7DdFPvfE1xCv5OBnO9d6-ZlO62HAFwjpWR2Fbyvlt0YI-BhNWUgKj30aFKHFZv5oJsTZYKyC8JWJQRv2W9Hcksjg/s1209/20230814_190425.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD99PxZhUOw8nhqzo03Qdq9pgdcfYNe4ERk3wEO4qj91aS5-oe7zvPlIpS2061KsVt0cW3vwZAEasSF4Wtky-eHOkaQ8-Ra5mixW-7DdFPvfE1xCv5OBnO9d6-ZlO62HAFwjpWR2Fbyvlt0YI-BhNWUgKj30aFKHFZv5oJsTZYKyC8JWJQRv2W9Hcksjg/s320/20230814_190425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrEJCViKIK9-HKHTw3YRjPuh62PJji7hRRw4HIqkPPjR6e5EOCp8yAqPR_6Gs50yoFydVR4vzTy7FdoRm9MpS4jdD2lcYd-fLaV0j7kIpwsGUE_OsHsl21thurEJxgJ1QmcrpKuHF1-RfEndCXRLQ-a0mDSsF4SOssLJ0Xl3QGOZCTt0ISGv9EhoRxXiI/s1209/20230814_190504.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrEJCViKIK9-HKHTw3YRjPuh62PJji7hRRw4HIqkPPjR6e5EOCp8yAqPR_6Gs50yoFydVR4vzTy7FdoRm9MpS4jdD2lcYd-fLaV0j7kIpwsGUE_OsHsl21thurEJxgJ1QmcrpKuHF1-RfEndCXRLQ-a0mDSsF4SOssLJ0Xl3QGOZCTt0ISGv9EhoRxXiI/s320/20230814_190504.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyBCIlCwlqR3QGuCpeSByDUmI-W3G5HdtZh__sXdo0q9nLD6-Tec_nJhSF9um4KLwF4MToWTlA86ickVD8NGHcznG5r6eJ-sZF8aIMn84lApZdVrrnTIOehY-V17QAJAMtk_IB9Eat7MupgWDsqW-RXUEZXyrRhYkpOh5OT0kuIQAHq8LvQI1Pprj1Jrg/s1209/20230814_190539.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyBCIlCwlqR3QGuCpeSByDUmI-W3G5HdtZh__sXdo0q9nLD6-Tec_nJhSF9um4KLwF4MToWTlA86ickVD8NGHcznG5r6eJ-sZF8aIMn84lApZdVrrnTIOehY-V17QAJAMtk_IB9Eat7MupgWDsqW-RXUEZXyrRhYkpOh5OT0kuIQAHq8LvQI1Pprj1Jrg/s320/20230814_190539.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavrTaBsickFg3cNk4Aela1UVjrQ-3rKvW58WXT6zKFO5tHN0-b-l8HvPElQMZohZ4KZ8XfRIWOItLMfoIKpc93PBkcJ6_50SE-JNnQ8sF-67SlnaBpAPtOEveO-N-yFOhJmGOkahHILvrKgeWZTPN7-d-qzoHNnIokuut555TiPyD3WjpV7epX9GASNc/s1209/20230814_190724.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavrTaBsickFg3cNk4Aela1UVjrQ-3rKvW58WXT6zKFO5tHN0-b-l8HvPElQMZohZ4KZ8XfRIWOItLMfoIKpc93PBkcJ6_50SE-JNnQ8sF-67SlnaBpAPtOEveO-N-yFOhJmGOkahHILvrKgeWZTPN7-d-qzoHNnIokuut555TiPyD3WjpV7epX9GASNc/s320/20230814_190724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbi_w41qe48p3h8kDHDBDMTeCqrTIDRPYhv1_tcOmPbI2yLcQdH98Bijzofoq8tEivMBQc6m6Nql4sWS2sKJkduq-Tqlr5j2BdYi1K8Xz7pWs7CPxkxE-1VeuOEUF8-e2wZjc_7JzkII9ni-oFFjq9SqZ7NWdUcZV14dDFSboCbTdU155DLV6_1oiLlI/s1209/20230814_191222.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbi_w41qe48p3h8kDHDBDMTeCqrTIDRPYhv1_tcOmPbI2yLcQdH98Bijzofoq8tEivMBQc6m6Nql4sWS2sKJkduq-Tqlr5j2BdYi1K8Xz7pWs7CPxkxE-1VeuOEUF8-e2wZjc_7JzkII9ni-oFFjq9SqZ7NWdUcZV14dDFSboCbTdU155DLV6_1oiLlI/s320/20230814_191222.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">un cane sul tetto</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Facciamo anche la spesa per la cena. Viste le mie condizioni ancora molto incerte (o meglio, certamente negative) e il persistente malfunzionamento dell'apparato digerente, non posso ancora azzardare nè ristoranti nè, tantomeno, strett food. Devo limitarmi a riso bollito, pasta in bianco, cracker di mais, biscotti secchi e tè o limonata, oltre all'acqua. Poco e asciutto, altrimenti accade l'irrimediabile e poi pedalare è difficile.<div><br /></div><div>La mestizia del menù è compensata dalla location: ceniamo sul balcone, al fresco, con una vista privilegiata sul centro del paese e i suoi abitanti. Quasi sotto di noi c'è una signora che fa buoni affari vendendo coppette di mais bollito al momento, condito con maionese, salsa piccante, burro e formaggio. Ha il suo banchetto di plastica, il suo pentolone pieno di pannocchie che cuociono sul fuoco, alimentato da una bombola a gas portatile. Conosce tutti, la salutano affettuosamente, deve essere una presenza storica di questo crocicchio. Poi c'è un'auto vecchia e scassate che passa con un altoparlante a tutto volume. Musichina allegra e poi l'annuncio: "tamales, tamales ricos, tamales calientitos!". Fa il giro del quartiere una decina di volte, poi si sposta in un altro, poi torna, e così via. Il bar del nostro hotel ha molti giovani avventori, ragazze e ragazzi che sembrano mmerricani allo Starbucks. La gente passa, torna a casa, va a lavorare, prende una boccata d'aria fresca, fa compere, chiacchiera... Vive. E' pazzesco come siamo tanto uguali, ovunque, pur nella distanza e nella diversità. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18nmBFJqYsia0t_dLS7_9v6NqXK6DHCF8ni9k9-QxrAAUZoAil3UWW8laERa1QwcOgIuZ00KhjM13PqqQ28F2pb6bxsObBCfioKJXAVZFx7enCqIOJn85MyKw3PKL0ipMzvXMG2o8CN5a6RecLpYpwIMV-8IL7zR5Wo2jLo_WvWJhoX00NdHHhSUn3x8/s1209/20230814_195453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18nmBFJqYsia0t_dLS7_9v6NqXK6DHCF8ni9k9-QxrAAUZoAil3UWW8laERa1QwcOgIuZ00KhjM13PqqQ28F2pb6bxsObBCfioKJXAVZFx7enCqIOJn85MyKw3PKL0ipMzvXMG2o8CN5a6RecLpYpwIMV-8IL7zR5Wo2jLo_WvWJhoX00NdHHhSUn3x8/s320/20230814_195453.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVNP1bGrsRNhfBNVZOTIy9-BZZSC-ayq7TBXS--rOQbI8pfa6r2jd5HVvUwm0FVBXlrfzEh0h-_e6Z2d9DvbfXZSfuneWrVDJPgMAatfpUTRzMbLxw8DsVyQWVMBokynP-FYJzdOAMeYMLtRE33_ulK3cH_68MqPz67KMQb6ND_pcdsur8OvQvuBXeHUY/s1209/20230814_195502.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVNP1bGrsRNhfBNVZOTIy9-BZZSC-ayq7TBXS--rOQbI8pfa6r2jd5HVvUwm0FVBXlrfzEh0h-_e6Z2d9DvbfXZSfuneWrVDJPgMAatfpUTRzMbLxw8DsVyQWVMBokynP-FYJzdOAMeYMLtRE33_ulK3cH_68MqPz67KMQb6ND_pcdsur8OvQvuBXeHUY/s320/20230814_195502.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcIRfr7VKJ83CDKRZBB-5pjdzp6exWfjb7LYR1dOp7LRTpGo612OFoheDKnaQc5bCrCASbvR3lO8ygf0JmNXnPjt81S2B0h-tV2NpLP09F81La12D69V6gn4TB43-M8McPKlvZEPRggu0HbE5MVA33PodV2kC8dPbBSh9KuxnyyM3LyPWJGfPKOWe4HiM/s979/20230814_195927.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcIRfr7VKJ83CDKRZBB-5pjdzp6exWfjb7LYR1dOp7LRTpGo612OFoheDKnaQc5bCrCASbvR3lO8ygf0JmNXnPjt81S2B0h-tV2NpLP09F81La12D69V6gn4TB43-M8McPKlvZEPRggu0HbE5MVA33PodV2kC8dPbBSh9KuxnyyM3LyPWJGfPKOWe4HiM/s320/20230814_195927.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTbRIKt7dbXReZuzfS8YcOo0-Y-8uXEEzx3N3C99gn744gCBmpxrLjSqe4dO0Oo9GAKvJ74xfurn-_0W0eLuF9FpzELFAxh9W9ewUN2W1XxchGjDuQCJeWPfgAkQ2u-LvFjNGQ0jMDvZ6TXOcyH3kDZ2DLturl7DiLn6IOAmw4IVhN1s5Ec64oV-MGWZU/s1209/20230814_200045.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTbRIKt7dbXReZuzfS8YcOo0-Y-8uXEEzx3N3C99gn744gCBmpxrLjSqe4dO0Oo9GAKvJ74xfurn-_0W0eLuF9FpzELFAxh9W9ewUN2W1XxchGjDuQCJeWPfgAkQ2u-LvFjNGQ0jMDvZ6TXOcyH3kDZ2DLturl7DiLn6IOAmw4IVhN1s5Ec64oV-MGWZU/s320/20230814_200045.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a discapito del nome, le salmas sono assai buone</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Mentre ceniamo si avvicina un temporale, annunciato da lampi sempre più spaventosi. Poi, in un attimo, si alza il vento e inizia a diluviare con una cattiveria violenta e inarrestabile. Per le strade c'è un fuggi fuggi che lascia a terra bicchieri, sacchetti e merce, che viene poi ritirata in fretta e furia mentre le strade diventano fiumi scuri. Le nostre finestre si spalancano tutte, e scopriamo che anche qui i serramenti non tengono l'acqua. Un lato della camera si allaga nel giro di pochi minuti, mentre noi accrocchiamo appendiabiti e cinghie delle borse per tener chiusi i vetri. La luce salta a più riprese, mentre i tuoni fan tremare le pareti. E' uno spettacolo cui è bello assistere al sicuro, sotto a un tetto. Per fortuna qui piove solo la sera!</div><div><br /></div><div>Quando la furia di Zeus adunatore di nubi si placa, è ora di dormire. Domani ci aspettano 100km e un po' di salita, gli ultimi (penultimi, via) strappi di Sierra Madre prima di tornare al piano.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>15/8</div><div>Magdalena-Santa Isabel</div><div>97km</div><div><br /></div><div>Abbiamo puntato la sveglia, oggi, per partire presto: c'è solo un hotel dove vogliamo arrivare oggi e, qualora dovessero esserci sorprese (che non mancano mai) dovremmo pedalare altri 40km impestati di salite. Quindi colazione in camera con marmellata e tortillas e via. Uscendo, incrociamo un anziano cowboy allegrotto e vagamente brillo, che ci attacca un gran bottone biascicato, per poi congedarsi con un "con permiso" e un mezzo inchino con tocco di cappello. Che signore!</div><div>Passiamo in piazza, dove la vendita dei biglietti della rifa prosegue e gli ambulantes che offrono caffè, tamales, ovetti al gusto e pan dulce sono già al lavoro.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzUHD0YL3n2ZP1iN0R_65sGcMKkU120AHHa4eAnx1aK4Ti152huUJYpSgbRijHgh_5ifBiWB_XLtfQw36_F-YQ2BIWSme79iF26aJBtAVbGI7os8Rn1oCraFeL-XqkRNbDSdrFOPkcpj7sKov3mpNR7FDaavsEwhw5VAUu2zddpfIbDBzJv-15EMtzMN4/s1209/19230815_082239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzUHD0YL3n2ZP1iN0R_65sGcMKkU120AHHa4eAnx1aK4Ti152huUJYpSgbRijHgh_5ifBiWB_XLtfQw36_F-YQ2BIWSme79iF26aJBtAVbGI7os8Rn1oCraFeL-XqkRNbDSdrFOPkcpj7sKov3mpNR7FDaavsEwhw5VAUu2zddpfIbDBzJv-15EMtzMN4/s320/19230815_082239.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi ci lasciamo alle spalle la città per trovarci in una campagna dolcissima, con alture morbide coperte di linfa di tutti i verdi del mondo e qualche laghetto che riflette l'argento del cielo. Il traffico è quasi nullo e il silenzio si combina perfettamente all'aria frizzante e ancora memore del temporale notturno.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJIRVSm_I7-gJSjflE4udhYygrPkxO_zK9AZKMiKWRCSqdwBKQuyC3T0ccEWOXei0xXNG-atA5A1cPr9xAuKEmeLdvtvmsSqKSLug56Zf30cdR6OVvRnQiIxXqFXOntm4Kkzf-N0RLiKtQq4UpFVfr51FjcEPBUQpmzByP8rvB5gmFkA1lSF-LixdX-Y/s1209/20230815_081554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJIRVSm_I7-gJSjflE4udhYygrPkxO_zK9AZKMiKWRCSqdwBKQuyC3T0ccEWOXei0xXNG-atA5A1cPr9xAuKEmeLdvtvmsSqKSLug56Zf30cdR6OVvRnQiIxXqFXOntm4Kkzf-N0RLiKtQq4UpFVfr51FjcEPBUQpmzByP8rvB5gmFkA1lSF-LixdX-Y/s320/20230815_081554.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZUYbr5jY8Jn8N9OEIT005m2LODbXmQPnRfGxYXk7dfQ7Qzm2ncivtClLAAt4sWqURugKVjJQFHgoaNKiNoKmLYn5LD_gyTLT9rHQu2Jw59apOAKOa1rfIfkxHww1bFRpVCwh4LdbcoCAdKuXNSPh4_bIGxcYUucggCdJO7Zj1vT8ovCJwxPY-Dt1JMk/s1209/20230815_081610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZUYbr5jY8Jn8N9OEIT005m2LODbXmQPnRfGxYXk7dfQ7Qzm2ncivtClLAAt4sWqURugKVjJQFHgoaNKiNoKmLYn5LD_gyTLT9rHQu2Jw59apOAKOa1rfIfkxHww1bFRpVCwh4LdbcoCAdKuXNSPh4_bIGxcYUucggCdJO7Zj1vT8ovCJwxPY-Dt1JMk/s320/20230815_081610.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb5rRP_szHWE95gwRT3KZoZ2N32t2lKLUpJL91z-CL9uoTBhW4tbdvanuzDSywIe8KdjL9Dgn-EmsjXzL4U1TQuliGI2Fta-mEBVjYUuEp8jkRdLCuYQgOPa5srfsEEPv75gvvcb1YcGu-7PEFZDGVoVpY8MlrCKbTTZ80KWjX38lsm-LUwKt6wTMInME/s1209/20230815_082623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb5rRP_szHWE95gwRT3KZoZ2N32t2lKLUpJL91z-CL9uoTBhW4tbdvanuzDSywIe8KdjL9Dgn-EmsjXzL4U1TQuliGI2Fta-mEBVjYUuEp8jkRdLCuYQgOPa5srfsEEPv75gvvcb1YcGu-7PEFZDGVoVpY8MlrCKbTTZ80KWjX38lsm-LUwKt6wTMInME/s320/20230815_082623.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaumYGsg5kcwZA2LSR3lF_wpMTrpf1A0auJvKFjkv9Tz4cUCMUIRjt_v0el6iQXzEAKWXmwS8YW_mOq2aNfBm21TAG-wRdVwIVVw7WpkhJAZI_5prkkyCvvJz4c-OgYsh2J9BUyfjMXX2Z5WuS5naJCB4iUIwwujwNTv6rQVrRDvkPl84QxjHF6pma6p0/s1209/20230815_083140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaumYGsg5kcwZA2LSR3lF_wpMTrpf1A0auJvKFjkv9Tz4cUCMUIRjt_v0el6iQXzEAKWXmwS8YW_mOq2aNfBm21TAG-wRdVwIVVw7WpkhJAZI_5prkkyCvvJz4c-OgYsh2J9BUyfjMXX2Z5WuS5naJCB4iUIwwujwNTv6rQVrRDvkPl84QxjHF6pma6p0/s320/20230815_083140.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Jcekds5ff5Gzrtm5F-INpwDgBlcNL7WHQmFB-MHJT8pCEmuEorbc6db7LAY_8ue721UlfdpyDjb-BbO-WuQ06hFlzbJxnaX1vJ8W-tqnfHnAeXZk3tWrtxDksuxiMH3mTgq0UgNWS_12KfHKLz-EocYvJqkATDVHL9gkmX0RcdEiQyihbQBMpYQLe-I/s1209/20230815_084225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Jcekds5ff5Gzrtm5F-INpwDgBlcNL7WHQmFB-MHJT8pCEmuEorbc6db7LAY_8ue721UlfdpyDjb-BbO-WuQ06hFlzbJxnaX1vJ8W-tqnfHnAeXZk3tWrtxDksuxiMH3mTgq0UgNWS_12KfHKLz-EocYvJqkATDVHL9gkmX0RcdEiQyihbQBMpYQLe-I/s320/20230815_084225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJpaSQ6IM9LrUng-vSmwy6yMZQKUpkA_R0wLhVcB-4z1419Ky-Lil-wiFRik5X2l02rQKl56oHh08wkfviPMNUbjxI5Et2f0G21xDIbO-3Z1dpP1P7_uVSY_fQ7752ozVMKQkpVsxvexjh4fozhnR3k3SuUMhbaTvKIQsW9dARK8atULzb9rY8p-8gZw/s1209/20230815_084228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJpaSQ6IM9LrUng-vSmwy6yMZQKUpkA_R0wLhVcB-4z1419Ky-Lil-wiFRik5X2l02rQKl56oHh08wkfviPMNUbjxI5Et2f0G21xDIbO-3Z1dpP1P7_uVSY_fQ7752ozVMKQkpVsxvexjh4fozhnR3k3SuUMhbaTvKIQsW9dARK8atULzb9rY8p-8gZw/s320/20230815_084228.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPpamTbp6FdbFtWrxAk_lTVNdioCrMqWvevPb60POxTRaIsOYThx2jNkdChvI1sv0I9xLWcoP_0vb1q5d-61tyjDQvcWA7Rt0MidEbrMchhDSWylWP0Uc57d3axvzK63VWti_jZadiG29F6QGE7l17g8mP0wuwYYfLv8xOXXE-OLkiixVqiSACDg1Gshw/s1209/20230815_084957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="567" data-original-width="1209" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPpamTbp6FdbFtWrxAk_lTVNdioCrMqWvevPb60POxTRaIsOYThx2jNkdChvI1sv0I9xLWcoP_0vb1q5d-61tyjDQvcWA7Rt0MidEbrMchhDSWylWP0Uc57d3axvzK63VWti_jZadiG29F6QGE7l17g8mP0wuwYYfLv8xOXXE-OLkiixVqiSACDg1Gshw/s320/20230815_084957.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">un po' carica</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Anche qui le colture d'agave sono protagoniste, e, nei saliscendi, creano pennellate di blu su sfondo azzurro e verde, a contendersi le tonalità più scure con i monti che chiudono l'orizzonte e si fanno più vicini e stretti attorni a noi. Il primo tratto di strada ci porta a perdere quota, mentre ciuffi di nubi di vapore si alzano tra i boschi.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzToZ_zG8VTiZUgXo0mYQWkyq4jzLygbGoa24_T6cWzK2YFaBLlLRgo5czmx0HvKvQXx9xKXNgIjKgtasOmxVn6UWATZrkGi-s6DNhZU3sZI3HIKIz3L4NVU4spo05dfLaK9XcCXfLPlqMu1GQstuzA7HqmXJB-Tz5FrcH4CnFV432fx0LUdou-AL8f4/s1209/20230815_091101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzToZ_zG8VTiZUgXo0mYQWkyq4jzLygbGoa24_T6cWzK2YFaBLlLRgo5czmx0HvKvQXx9xKXNgIjKgtasOmxVn6UWATZrkGi-s6DNhZU3sZI3HIKIz3L4NVU4spo05dfLaK9XcCXfLPlqMu1GQstuzA7HqmXJB-Tz5FrcH4CnFV432fx0LUdou-AL8f4/s320/20230815_091101.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PpErPH8FRgl99sP7R6LPVb2B3wGgawO0ULxPnuZvWaF1HfXndfWBUrt20g2mNZqXlP51Mpi9cGa2T9F9uiBSEV5dxBCQ1Ed3E5pUn2mXGY1Aes-XskhyYLpwTRExhY3i5h8FMM0CGJmKh7T02E9alHIvwumPN_Yn0HlMt2LwVBLMhckpVn-JYlSxRlA/s1209/20230815_091337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicdyLDn2whbKR06Juf3IB1XM2hCNLATUNjvY-DRlxErjUGUWeoLN6I6dzE3i2miPLcKQO0nLUYHHPh3sTeCZm-v3s3relSEn0Kv6V5aSP_AGL69zRNuCBbc54gBWtyrKE5etbk7WbQDC5BTrh33iR4RksB6eTgOTvOlj4vfXuP-ARacfBXYsGDjf9LtQs/s320/20230815_094343.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwGpeWRljjJQrVqpghKlhHraBsBY3RBeu_QNrYRsS2rwk__e74j-4HYy8MonzjgcZEqkEQUKUF6FSF3Oc7Q-xP2-NsTjxNhl9DaBEBzyXUABLHU90C7GVSlQI-6h0XW3rm1mNMp6Zn8j0pPaxhi9Vxczzyzfnd6gJoncE61WX0n-1ctvYuiqfAhX23m-4/s1209/20230815_094423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwGpeWRljjJQrVqpghKlhHraBsBY3RBeu_QNrYRsS2rwk__e74j-4HYy8MonzjgcZEqkEQUKUF6FSF3Oc7Q-xP2-NsTjxNhl9DaBEBzyXUABLHU90C7GVSlQI-6h0XW3rm1mNMp6Zn8j0pPaxhi9Vxczzyzfnd6gJoncE61WX0n-1ctvYuiqfAhX23m-4/s320/20230815_094423.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kTvTptZKNrcUeseliJxOSJXOLxktDxz3za2IbTuaZTCWbQhU5_4nqg1wG7LaEGmDCC6eTeu7evkyOo1LDVFEcDzcpwpsSesNKph8CSRj6E1RiUUKShRwCmQ48N1-yr0H8eOZClfipWpRrvQVJipxa-d1rJNbjhNl4E_RgXy0Tr03DuLgjBoNW3nfs8o/s1209/20230815_095200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kTvTptZKNrcUeseliJxOSJXOLxktDxz3za2IbTuaZTCWbQhU5_4nqg1wG7LaEGmDCC6eTeu7evkyOo1LDVFEcDzcpwpsSesNKph8CSRj6E1RiUUKShRwCmQ48N1-yr0H8eOZClfipWpRrvQVJipxa-d1rJNbjhNl4E_RgXy0Tr03DuLgjBoNW3nfs8o/s320/20230815_095200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi cominciano le salite, mai ripide, ma lunghe, lunghissime, costanti, da affrontare piano e armati di pazienza. Si gronda di sudore, ma non per il caldo, per l'umidità. Tutta quest'area non presenta paesi, ma case sparse di contadini e pastori. Si vedono molte più mucche e capre al pascolo che uomini. Ai tornanti si aprono scorci sulle valli intorno, e, nonostante la luce sia velata, il colpo d'occhio è incredibile: mari di blu, verdi oceanici, laghi di linfa. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilgp4HlB2XhJI9ITQlUtSj0g_QOYy6Qa1jGvtRPl5P8EsGJYWcpSAf-xRHG_Kd0i_IvMmHDgz-wylIB8B7vdx9DEdY4cu4qe7OW_0bvSuSyOb9LLrqarD0SrWAwBxevlamwIBTPsY_MFcXrNQ75B7VT4dhQwZhOJZPrWbD3mObbX_tm1CiFqS-b55-0eg/s1189/20230815_100459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="892" data-original-width="1189" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilgp4HlB2XhJI9ITQlUtSj0g_QOYy6Qa1jGvtRPl5P8EsGJYWcpSAf-xRHG_Kd0i_IvMmHDgz-wylIB8B7vdx9DEdY4cu4qe7OW_0bvSuSyOb9LLrqarD0SrWAwBxevlamwIBTPsY_MFcXrNQ75B7VT4dhQwZhOJZPrWbD3mObbX_tm1CiFqS-b55-0eg/s320/20230815_100459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMRfhA62LGVOKi9sDQr4pWVBUEvKJ3xQaa6o_C05gOH150-xnJ3xOlApA7m1VP7SLx8V13YRg8fUq-kIm1gwGbInwn2e2Rwl-Iuz2NRsIKKJmew1KMbRo1nINp76SDixVtXyJSXKGA55vfT00qd1hIiwSG5n3z36NJao2Hhj5G2MM6CiosqmVUQCTZNc/s1209/20230815_101052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMRfhA62LGVOKi9sDQr4pWVBUEvKJ3xQaa6o_C05gOH150-xnJ3xOlApA7m1VP7SLx8V13YRg8fUq-kIm1gwGbInwn2e2Rwl-Iuz2NRsIKKJmew1KMbRo1nINp76SDixVtXyJSXKGA55vfT00qd1hIiwSG5n3z36NJao2Hhj5G2MM6CiosqmVUQCTZNc/s320/20230815_101052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEOdU4c7cpn7Zp3IQvo5mIAWgjaj4WhWIIi7olP4pzVRE2tMePF6uAJ9SaD3G9e9R-GJXMgGlqF8lXCdDPpa9stKS3B5P_EhEAqGY_teAG2hvvOoo3SFK-ZeqRzJDmaiXQibnMZO4aXlC1PNd1Hj2sVSpr4d9Ctk0TAsY4IBbSJIZ0mM0_xwGqwTxKub4/s1209/20230815_101107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEOdU4c7cpn7Zp3IQvo5mIAWgjaj4WhWIIi7olP4pzVRE2tMePF6uAJ9SaD3G9e9R-GJXMgGlqF8lXCdDPpa9stKS3B5P_EhEAqGY_teAG2hvvOoo3SFK-ZeqRzJDmaiXQibnMZO4aXlC1PNd1Hj2sVSpr4d9Ctk0TAsY4IBbSJIZ0mM0_xwGqwTxKub4/s320/20230815_101107.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1f7yjQ3H05IOHxE5mz1Qbua6w7lnrPMqlDkvjTLesE4EYzqzy-vD1kaJjqxAbpDLVL6EkxdEYQRVvRPLr8rkKpL3KgZW-dTsGEVIMjqsaNS2mtDh28Wt5tqEElXEA_i2lQI-ftFylAgIpAdicbC026dGO-yjgAcTwQEt0a9racxNWlBquTN_-dtNx7U/s1209/20230815_101110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA1f7yjQ3H05IOHxE5mz1Qbua6w7lnrPMqlDkvjTLesE4EYzqzy-vD1kaJjqxAbpDLVL6EkxdEYQRVvRPLr8rkKpL3KgZW-dTsGEVIMjqsaNS2mtDh28Wt5tqEElXEA_i2lQI-ftFylAgIpAdicbC026dGO-yjgAcTwQEt0a9racxNWlBquTN_-dtNx7U/s320/20230815_101110.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTH49D7ncvPJrm7H1hkh-QqzwCfFGTIudAOkGwcYZ0wZ1ruAVHq0KcbKOZYMR4Mc430NKeoh0bTjOSlYq-bvDp8hAPVSxNm3yD5mOyPg4PHkmpH67i6L8N8hqbiQ3HSJH98i4lIuWhBrrFcRXGJDW4i5rASxlAhx1ZuqUjc-L3cK5iCvjVjVaKcLdEVk/s1209/20230815_101522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTH49D7ncvPJrm7H1hkh-QqzwCfFGTIudAOkGwcYZ0wZ1ruAVHq0KcbKOZYMR4Mc430NKeoh0bTjOSlYq-bvDp8hAPVSxNm3yD5mOyPg4PHkmpH67i6L8N8hqbiQ3HSJH98i4lIuWhBrrFcRXGJDW4i5rASxlAhx1ZuqUjc-L3cK5iCvjVjVaKcLdEVk/s320/20230815_101522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RXgRNk1ZkY_gSx2NYPbYbjPc2-xZrqjyeO28Zs2teQf9qzf3jpjwC4R65FI0iuuYqB5SzZEMi6zMggQtleHVZryE3Dxkny1boP1Laia7R_HnWISgR_ILvuJ-szkVsZ3P21OFejvLwhSKVQgokPdttkk5s5aI7d_tJjQtQjtcf9rdTDN2LMgEDXic45s/s1209/20230815_105129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RXgRNk1ZkY_gSx2NYPbYbjPc2-xZrqjyeO28Zs2teQf9qzf3jpjwC4R65FI0iuuYqB5SzZEMi6zMggQtleHVZryE3Dxkny1boP1Laia7R_HnWISgR_ILvuJ-szkVsZ3P21OFejvLwhSKVQgokPdttkk5s5aI7d_tJjQtQjtcf9rdTDN2LMgEDXic45s/s320/20230815_105129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lsv2c_u73uRhnpwMVMoIObKW-FXfYtt-5GWv1N-gg0rX3uvNfhfjjRRTcYThgL6cUA4_xqUbLcjxFu0IqqJ-J2eprfLd1c8er5Fi_wHkpRii2ftk6IuExuGOGt9a2xC2cEPzgFQlWVzaUWq1R80Z8r5pZK1Kx-7AAc7xZ6tYM_QR30IKR9jHpCgesi0/s1209/20230815_105133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lsv2c_u73uRhnpwMVMoIObKW-FXfYtt-5GWv1N-gg0rX3uvNfhfjjRRTcYThgL6cUA4_xqUbLcjxFu0IqqJ-J2eprfLd1c8er5Fi_wHkpRii2ftk6IuExuGOGt9a2xC2cEPzgFQlWVzaUWq1R80Z8r5pZK1Kx-7AAc7xZ6tYM_QR30IKR9jHpCgesi0/s320/20230815_105133.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82vrooX0Avk3imrmgl1MOT3O3F9OIZ9kDb61QoTRr7Hvr6mwB0qSUbkWUb0cftQgfR18tEpP7Q_l2-2rsjdT4N5aMOkJgSB14eFwDllO_lZfJ-VKAwpWKZV3o6Zx5xzTbJ5XXMrWLGKM197w3GIvI5MlFwZlM6xv2vTB85QVacGk2JmIC6YcRqZH5C7c/s1209/20230815_105136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82vrooX0Avk3imrmgl1MOT3O3F9OIZ9kDb61QoTRr7Hvr6mwB0qSUbkWUb0cftQgfR18tEpP7Q_l2-2rsjdT4N5aMOkJgSB14eFwDllO_lZfJ-VKAwpWKZV3o6Zx5xzTbJ5XXMrWLGKM197w3GIvI5MlFwZlM6xv2vTB85QVacGk2JmIC6YcRqZH5C7c/s320/20230815_105136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando cominciamo ad averne abbastanza di salita, ecco il passo. Questo coincide, oltretutto, con il confine tra Jalisco e Nayarit, il nostro quattordicesimo stato messicano di 31 che sono. Qui cambia anche fuso orario, ed è la terza volta che spostiamo indietro l'orologio rispetto all'Italia. Ora abbiamo 9 ore di differenza. Una lunghissima discesa, sommata al vento a favore, ci porta direttamente fino a Ixtlan del Rio, tra campi d'agave e mais.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqpI16toa1hSNFMqOMAi7-nwipwolEn5_WYMiRR5NHU3yMNodiaqPQX9UTWEDyDxxYXtzQnbB3CHV0EQtAZgigm5Qnj_C2Cih5nkIK9VGaxmUJAELiW-Dh2j2C-Na5R_22g9XCXA74z5wrYc9gyMKuRHGO8x-35rFdK5dguPqzVGS3C4PzkB7t9hTU2h0/s320/20230815_113425.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOb0LUtqodCaj7xexzJcd5AeQJwRa9PE6UlwZOIJBFS_6pwpS4ZELW2FocdwnnxVJO0M_w9oiajPEIbZPzWaaFHOO3BkShp65ATBaMPoPg5hvM4r0bupVq9BJNBCJ--c7GIwLCDo5RvU6TKXe99Ou96D7gsdvGl8KQajm26-VInTo9TPzGzQhtxmncM8/s320/20230815_114441.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qTGbhdP5iJXRh8V45FM0t48Zya8R4QbMOWDyNBtLGoQLpZXMBhF0U4BzD46_Ch06lwIHd0-E1QuoG3ouo8mlbrwuiV0AJqUGb1Y4lV9ANOT52mfUZR0oHDHxUgiS8Awxg7gTspvAs8gjVeedf0UtOwdywh670IayR3w6hnMBs-z5IocxXPt9oMFPCs0/s320/20230815_114545.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGkx2Qu0RnelOwgb0msqbdd2T71jba-gUh-j33H9Gpc_SFM5Kvytd3SokEawpTztuoCwX_iaL9dwqsaYCL4vSpfe81SJlt5S9VYOf4aSHslgQ4nSIO08uogbz9o3Fz-LKpWNmE-abZ5DGABS_L5TU0Xb5HsQ8kGrIzrzCoMUYKuScU5bX-AfaVr1yZcR0/s320/20230815_115313.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMvIBMMdtzZ2_tBqHjORQXoYVrNlq6AilP9saLhhRLbk9YxD6fSATVkdnUuZhmWguAGpfarg-g1qY8CNgsg9r-CfmQzoIafe7gIS3RyZGGsIEFHQpszIaF_pMSMG0JCyhPJJClxnBPVV8GItMYNpD8JewuQsri3AH3kf8eEmVtggByCUn5X1bUulPuls/s320/20230815_120828.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div>Ixtlan è una parola nahuatl che significa "luogo dove abbonda l'ossidiana", e in effetti se ne trova tantissima, e affiora dal terreno, nera e lucida, ancora oggi. Per la presenza di questa pietra e la fertilità del suolo, l'area fu abitata fin dal IX secolo da tribù tolteche, che consideravano l'ossidiana materiale sacro per il dio della guerra e del sacrificio (umano). Gli aztechi non furono da meno. C'è anche un sito archeologico che conserva resti di templi (di cui uno circolare, unico nel suo genere) e palazzi, Los toriles.</div><div><br /></div>La città è animata e abbellita da palazzi coloniali ed edifici storici ben conservati, chiese e portici. Il nostro arrivo in discesa e sospinti dal vento, sommato al traffico che rende difficoltoso il transito con le bici gorde, mi ha impedito di scattare foto decenti che rendano giustizia a Ixtlan. Ma fidatevi, è bellina davvero.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3knra6otMflgjWPWmSGeg6UnEw9NgWg3uKFVmawjphTF6p92yk9kqxxiyLblW27Q6lv9NWSn9SIjJvCDjyW6swogaY6JQF1jcZbQw5sdsauQFBvd0Q4hmz6NqlJrZbcpO63P10331Mgvx_Vd5rQ7c8trlhrCw0AbQZB9EdtR_nlygnbhw3s9U5Ff2F_E/s1209/20230815_113023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3knra6otMflgjWPWmSGeg6UnEw9NgWg3uKFVmawjphTF6p92yk9kqxxiyLblW27Q6lv9NWSn9SIjJvCDjyW6swogaY6JQF1jcZbQw5sdsauQFBvd0Q4hmz6NqlJrZbcpO63P10331Mgvx_Vd5rQ7c8trlhrCw0AbQZB9EdtR_nlygnbhw3s9U5Ff2F_E/s320/20230815_113023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPNR5XQrTtCvMc54OA-itAKY7tWwOV_Fh2Z8ZGqQP2VGZoyAGszIO-TT8Bwyqc6B8vBVAGNCR5CPYDyuteIYcd3VrW66yYJoIrHaS7Bwt_Ohjl3ExjPonI1o1vcf-U18R9AyVtsEMITnW9sShWhy8vlko5EbvqHSECL3GqQrBWwEtp60oy3hACCTb6S3U/s1209/20230815_113149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPNR5XQrTtCvMc54OA-itAKY7tWwOV_Fh2Z8ZGqQP2VGZoyAGszIO-TT8Bwyqc6B8vBVAGNCR5CPYDyuteIYcd3VrW66yYJoIrHaS7Bwt_Ohjl3ExjPonI1o1vcf-U18R9AyVtsEMITnW9sShWhy8vlko5EbvqHSECL3GqQrBWwEtp60oy3hACCTb6S3U/s320/20230815_113149.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVceXj9mzasXe9gGxpQiLby051iM_EqK-7Mwm2aMPJB1JVi_SFzr05SHGAEQ_0cZWczRXF0GqqGRPvO0GRTiQIGivulvyPBaOnldHneWudgMpsskVrRlYEY4mX4Cbp-bM-vmwTD7w-XGucPJ0rvhpbeOLAXYcsyvYE_TRRUItMdJNbKiUrDDmNBGOk4EI/s1209/20230815_113540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVceXj9mzasXe9gGxpQiLby051iM_EqK-7Mwm2aMPJB1JVi_SFzr05SHGAEQ_0cZWczRXF0GqqGRPvO0GRTiQIGivulvyPBaOnldHneWudgMpsskVrRlYEY4mX4Cbp-bM-vmwTD7w-XGucPJ0rvhpbeOLAXYcsyvYE_TRRUItMdJNbKiUrDDmNBGOk4EI/s320/20230815_113540.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGVhYyrRTAQMdvdFk93YvpohF8Ji6zwSwQ8hKb3ff2TseXnlVM-OZLm7q4VC1EfGsGCDqVT-ZOUYhMFdSM9LaRaUTWHpmQcv3mwSisgXB6h52UhmWFIWY3VM_xWwYX0Pcqm8opjiLTVrW3JTnW16y7QPElxpK19ZQpC1C9_LwcmmiQtkpUzfkHJFXH_c/s1209/20230815_114306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGVhYyrRTAQMdvdFk93YvpohF8Ji6zwSwQ8hKb3ff2TseXnlVM-OZLm7q4VC1EfGsGCDqVT-ZOUYhMFdSM9LaRaUTWHpmQcv3mwSisgXB6h52UhmWFIWY3VM_xWwYX0Pcqm8opjiLTVrW3JTnW16y7QPElxpK19ZQpC1C9_LwcmmiQtkpUzfkHJFXH_c/s320/20230815_114306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEegzZW4UosawEOn1bEHkQfEZJz6ywaNv62ubAwnlWQCJG7gTKo6arlr7MWLBOBnO7S_6Ti5Q-adPKZlCbMi25fbGn4JEzVCw1eCrewAHu9M7QutZbxUkQufL3CgUIeUI7bIEc9h91Si5dPkKP0qA2t9URmMGMcrJXsrDQ0cyCpDWC5GbXdUa7zjF3Cfs/s1209/20230815_114315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEegzZW4UosawEOn1bEHkQfEZJz6ywaNv62ubAwnlWQCJG7gTKo6arlr7MWLBOBnO7S_6Ti5Q-adPKZlCbMi25fbGn4JEzVCw1eCrewAHu9M7QutZbxUkQufL3CgUIeUI7bIEc9h91Si5dPkKP0qA2t9URmMGMcrJXsrDQ0cyCpDWC5GbXdUa7zjF3Cfs/s320/20230815_114315.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Avendo "guadagnato" un'ora, decidiamo di fare una sosta presso un benzinaio con bagni e supermercatino. La pausa diventa una lunga sessione di public relations: prima ci avvicina un omone baffuto, Roberto Ortega, che si presenta come ciclista e ci dice che ospita, a casa sua, i viaggiatori e fa parte di un gruppo di apoyo cicloviajeros. Ci chiede se abbiamo bisogno, ma decliniamo l'offerta: vogliamo proseguire un po' ancora. Ciò non ci impedisce di fare una bella chiacchierata e scambiarci i contatti, sia mai che un giorno tornino utili a noi o a qualcun altro che passi di qui. Poi ci avvicina un papà con figlioletto adolescente, entrambi in divisa da moto, che stanno viaggiando da bravi centauri. Il padre è super affascinato dal cicloturismo e parte il secondo round di foto e selfie (io sono così presa dalla situazione da non scattarne, stavolta).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo più di un'ora, ripartiamo in direzione di Ahuacatlan (dove nacque Prisciliano Sanchez, padre del federalismo messicano e fondatore del Jalisco). Sempre in discesa, circondati da un paesaggio da cartolina.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6cOY07PBMH8bKh9PteibvKEgDUZSFE7i--kA7-RgY7LaN5Dac7DbG8AeVDaKtGZtREoID9dGhbS_AJiKh9ivLt9S4qWDO7KA9cRi5rkUT8VBxOGpU3-U23KJT6xk_o761aV7yCEUoyd0andIAZclRPyE96KN7Y_AdT0eIZNk5qskQROXAi0hKHm6otE/s1209/20230815_120830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn6cOY07PBMH8bKh9PteibvKEgDUZSFE7i--kA7-RgY7LaN5Dac7DbG8AeVDaKtGZtREoID9dGhbS_AJiKh9ivLt9S4qWDO7KA9cRi5rkUT8VBxOGpU3-U23KJT6xk_o761aV7yCEUoyd0andIAZclRPyE96KN7Y_AdT0eIZNk5qskQROXAi0hKHm6otE/s320/20230815_120830.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAudLcO9HwwaoPtFgXPA9PHXr4vt8K0V_r_QToJyoHGOkbx8waAUXBZkM-7YgKbarsV62WxZpxNfI909m8ps-rKcaOlbiVuBbpHuBJtVhR49fC_q1s6ulH1q_oRKZS3s2WhGJSI04QZbgPlAj9Ms0NeiSAJ4jcAza3mTGz_URYFzT0qTf8nNp04_t9xWk/s1209/20230815_134353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAudLcO9HwwaoPtFgXPA9PHXr4vt8K0V_r_QToJyoHGOkbx8waAUXBZkM-7YgKbarsV62WxZpxNfI909m8ps-rKcaOlbiVuBbpHuBJtVhR49fC_q1s6ulH1q_oRKZS3s2WhGJSI04QZbgPlAj9Ms0NeiSAJ4jcAza3mTGz_URYFzT0qTf8nNp04_t9xWk/s320/20230815_134353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqQigprYe0jMStTe8d0HAk9Lw63sv12MVb2kbBlEO1yzlFli81MvywXF5cERf59Oto4sahxYj3ohRiP3y-S_q25gQpAc7W9ki11W2kWUow-bH0LTgl5Zn23_C3Jhpve2mcuNJn1E1s49sIO6jyCJAtSfTGZkv2NoiDzEE0scxUa0NOMMxdHD0ThaXhugI/s1209/20230815_134443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqQigprYe0jMStTe8d0HAk9Lw63sv12MVb2kbBlEO1yzlFli81MvywXF5cERf59Oto4sahxYj3ohRiP3y-S_q25gQpAc7W9ki11W2kWUow-bH0LTgl5Zn23_C3Jhpve2mcuNJn1E1s49sIO6jyCJAtSfTGZkv2NoiDzEE0scxUa0NOMMxdHD0ThaXhugI/s320/20230815_134443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBAgVfZgw5QYrTnAgX-q6FUewFYM4YkIKitR83MZNwi9JKRlNBxAnLeyldDVMLcHVuQHMO-PTkVTav3mZXfcGhOkgmboIolOME2MAvYVJoL0jfT0kQBmOE_0cb-nkW7yN7quVSWi70rD91LAOnwOzzJb1eTzi5ralIrDh2oS4XMM_GyHHR5Tgl4uKIpEM/s1209/20230815_134913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBAgVfZgw5QYrTnAgX-q6FUewFYM4YkIKitR83MZNwi9JKRlNBxAnLeyldDVMLcHVuQHMO-PTkVTav3mZXfcGhOkgmboIolOME2MAvYVJoL0jfT0kQBmOE_0cb-nkW7yN7quVSWi70rD91LAOnwOzzJb1eTzi5ralIrDh2oS4XMM_GyHHR5Tgl4uKIpEM/s320/20230815_134913.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Siamo in zona di vulcani, e ci si manifesta il primo, il Ceboruco, 2280m di altezza e numerose fumarole attive. L'ultima eruzione risale al 1870 (e fu catastrofica per i villaggi locali).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp-bSi-sIckzCFNoAah5g7ILNlazREmdqgDh455sUsHHaHrESOdzRbLJa08WsZXRkqqou69KvOYQGk3pPXz_Fd59U011yZhE8EXfWGwA0RMfe9DVALUgxZAAA1HCk2SwQroHHrV34fb2i2gHOv5Jc48d4qeHRc79SKqpZ4_AqBszeHZN-m-Q4SdeUNpc8/s1209/20230815_141445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp-bSi-sIckzCFNoAah5g7ILNlazREmdqgDh455sUsHHaHrESOdzRbLJa08WsZXRkqqou69KvOYQGk3pPXz_Fd59U011yZhE8EXfWGwA0RMfe9DVALUgxZAAA1HCk2SwQroHHrV34fb2i2gHOv5Jc48d4qeHRc79SKqpZ4_AqBszeHZN-m-Q4SdeUNpc8/s320/20230815_141445.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3RNyEL7OhbXIagwGTyqkA7MsiheRSIMJP_i-MQeejwou204_0b2Spg9e-DsDdojI2a_l9EG2T9DLmcZLUKlpde243qn0v8CKUZJRJqsbYnBuh2Na5nLoV81dFSbTpVZmsOnGINoKY0b7V0U0gk0u8xWJsHbI7Ra2-OgiEpgcqlR8dVzVc0mLLovsuFs/s1209/20230815_142448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3RNyEL7OhbXIagwGTyqkA7MsiheRSIMJP_i-MQeejwou204_0b2Spg9e-DsDdojI2a_l9EG2T9DLmcZLUKlpde243qn0v8CKUZJRJqsbYnBuh2Na5nLoV81dFSbTpVZmsOnGINoKY0b7V0U0gk0u8xWJsHbI7Ra2-OgiEpgcqlR8dVzVc0mLLovsuFs/s320/20230815_142448.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3yCStqZy4NfXpu-1P2WOk9BkzEuaDeNwuNpyXrbs2zNQ77Ye-_45U6-As75IRRYhM_Zc0cUPvwN93zOuhDajE2uY7RtoJQ2sWbRWcXybd3vwPSZ7q4861jHhBYTig1SO8QPn5cHA88K7U1py_k8xlfHIERWXzZf4s_qVA6lCylZYcDZLdpgxHdYLylQg/s1209/20230815_143158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3yCStqZy4NfXpu-1P2WOk9BkzEuaDeNwuNpyXrbs2zNQ77Ye-_45U6-As75IRRYhM_Zc0cUPvwN93zOuhDajE2uY7RtoJQ2sWbRWcXybd3vwPSZ7q4861jHhBYTig1SO8QPn5cHA88K7U1py_k8xlfHIERWXzZf4s_qVA6lCylZYcDZLdpgxHdYLylQg/s320/20230815_143158.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi41LBrLYiUN5qzCohSSDUjMshHbXyV6uZpuFJBu24BzSCXGkzxPpGVsvqSwInDT5jSvv0BsVpu-relutnjLMyabq4UCAiedtV6rkvBj0Cr8faPSeRpqQsfzLPsECbI5sgD5yOMchOK4ibgg73ZTlPHxFJrQ3QETu2PFMxYgRChT4-rs5mlohMrGPA19_0/s1209/20230815_143620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi41LBrLYiUN5qzCohSSDUjMshHbXyV6uZpuFJBu24BzSCXGkzxPpGVsvqSwInDT5jSvv0BsVpu-relutnjLMyabq4UCAiedtV6rkvBj0Cr8faPSeRpqQsfzLPsECbI5sgD5yOMchOK4ibgg73ZTlPHxFJrQ3QETu2PFMxYgRChT4-rs5mlohMrGPA19_0/s320/20230815_143620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZtfAQrGS6jE81lYT-XFWoEaPmTk7kd8nHTmvrRJD4Usp-PUBxCkyBpTu7aE3J1oZSla5p4Eptkj67tZlFc5i3UWi6Ma8fMkrIX3HeEFhHGWAkeJziEF510Qxp1oKxWXo3kBYcQ6eLX9J81n8_9q1BH9UbsJfmxBUMf_RGQC3bTcS6MzVVbdZ80WLaLE/s1209/20230815_143631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZtfAQrGS6jE81lYT-XFWoEaPmTk7kd8nHTmvrRJD4Usp-PUBxCkyBpTu7aE3J1oZSla5p4Eptkj67tZlFc5i3UWi6Ma8fMkrIX3HeEFhHGWAkeJziEF510Qxp1oKxWXo3kBYcQ6eLX9J81n8_9q1BH9UbsJfmxBUMf_RGQC3bTcS6MzVVbdZ80WLaLE/s320/20230815_143631.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Improvvisamente i campi di agave e i pratoni lasciano spazio a un gigantesco, impressionante giacimento di ossidiana e altra pietra lavica. Non sono esperta e non so cogliere le differenze. Ma questo ammasso nero e lucente risulta impressionante e ricorda da vicino certi scorci di Islanda. Gli ultimi kilometri trascorrono così in un ambiente che pare preistorico, alla Jurassic Park, con sagome di vulcani che si stagliano all'orizzonte e il contrasto tra erbe verdi chiarissime e blocchi lucenti di minerale nero.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwns2TcXm15ox6rhgGjMEYeGLVxTYIkznhZhMvtHLd_VD_gPveRoKguTSl1J79OKjwssISHE1npro4Ac4wzYjLBTyYkSqz1gJRgZL1v9r2ttHnKl24-2bd4UVZ5ygmXRxdY18EdGoeTGrsmAvY_1tvTLcJSG8rL8haKM3IK__WrZJtPqvwaHSxFhuyAQ/s1209/20230815_144108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwns2TcXm15ox6rhgGjMEYeGLVxTYIkznhZhMvtHLd_VD_gPveRoKguTSl1J79OKjwssISHE1npro4Ac4wzYjLBTyYkSqz1gJRgZL1v9r2ttHnKl24-2bd4UVZ5ygmXRxdY18EdGoeTGrsmAvY_1tvTLcJSG8rL8haKM3IK__WrZJtPqvwaHSxFhuyAQ/s320/20230815_144108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_2DcKGkFEpqxlfIH3hhf4mFz0ge95nfqAnDEUDIXM2KoCqP3MwY4bDWDDcNN1YkHgooKPjnGvrBxfOnvFfVZL8kQneEeBF1bDdXgq2gyVTVcSil0SBVI5ueoQ7k8GPMOZ_7FS0y8jZIwyhXuyvh5EW3PISlengKLddEWaFEoHXyBmC6m_p9B0tzEeKM/s1209/20230815_150651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_2DcKGkFEpqxlfIH3hhf4mFz0ge95nfqAnDEUDIXM2KoCqP3MwY4bDWDDcNN1YkHgooKPjnGvrBxfOnvFfVZL8kQneEeBF1bDdXgq2gyVTVcSil0SBVI5ueoQ7k8GPMOZ_7FS0y8jZIwyhXuyvh5EW3PISlengKLddEWaFEoHXyBmC6m_p9B0tzEeKM/s320/20230815_150651.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriviamo così a Santa Isabel, meta di oggi. Il minuscolo pueblo ci accoglie con una fiera di bancarelle lungo la strada; in vendita ci sono principalmente manufatti in terracotta e canna da zucchero, grezza o parzialmente lavorata, o raffinata (a cubetti, come succo...). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOPV9jbNvSocPmCp5zK1Hj7kUR1yHrPKF_Xzz_JxXqY02oak3PnC1yZfUfevt9i9ZbAKWv7yD51RKcZXeMpWprB9KkLKYHJF-YYN9SS_lCExD7_73zPPH5-0gV1L7OwVtIeF3n7-bzrn58wzBysU4MLNBRAfX9U3dPD9zlEvBobwemf88-cXxuR8eZIxk/s1209/20230815_151013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOPV9jbNvSocPmCp5zK1Hj7kUR1yHrPKF_Xzz_JxXqY02oak3PnC1yZfUfevt9i9ZbAKWv7yD51RKcZXeMpWprB9KkLKYHJF-YYN9SS_lCExD7_73zPPH5-0gV1L7OwVtIeF3n7-bzrn58wzBysU4MLNBRAfX9U3dPD9zlEvBobwemf88-cXxuR8eZIxk/s320/20230815_151013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0IOy1yvBPWgQ_96M3wrJjHLw3HPTXTLLK4cqh41MAvUiq-3qfRPRppJtyZR20es3C63p0eRXIoW9VD5g301L6o70vesXDkubV1rGxThZjaCkF2cfg6GmcUVqUUcZiChPl8GYWLPLb98BO6-Mz85ibqTuU42EMViBoD9T4qDo1ceIkpKbZQjmX-clcsk/s1209/20230815_151020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0IOy1yvBPWgQ_96M3wrJjHLw3HPTXTLLK4cqh41MAvUiq-3qfRPRppJtyZR20es3C63p0eRXIoW9VD5g301L6o70vesXDkubV1rGxThZjaCkF2cfg6GmcUVqUUcZiChPl8GYWLPLb98BO6-Mz85ibqTuU42EMViBoD9T4qDo1ceIkpKbZQjmX-clcsk/s320/20230815_151020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHoaNzyyH1bwmpG3BH0OMLnAzgsvIEOSCEDs08_T3cuBmJyGmBvREC30GBXl7Sl6y0orE-QAuObbFOeSQD23IqQmJlpy7pnv_X1YlvwsQYkKXyNtu0Nj0wXt7Va3Cg_Fy9Ug_kzjViC6aDNwsxJYFmXi0zKWbXFAVb6s7y5iIVc2nOLttt522OXmVF8Tg/s1008/20230815_151231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="1008" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHoaNzyyH1bwmpG3BH0OMLnAzgsvIEOSCEDs08_T3cuBmJyGmBvREC30GBXl7Sl6y0orE-QAuObbFOeSQD23IqQmJlpy7pnv_X1YlvwsQYkKXyNtu0Nj0wXt7Va3Cg_Fy9Ug_kzjViC6aDNwsxJYFmXi0zKWbXFAVb6s7y5iIVc2nOLttt522OXmVF8Tg/s320/20230815_151231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">L'albergo è talmente sui generis da rappresentare un unicum nella mia pur variegata esperienza. E' una farmacia, che vende, però, quasi solo cibo spazzatura, sporca, cadente e malconcia; dietro c'è la casa dei proprietari, una coppia sui 50 anni, che è stata parzialmente adibita a struttura ricettiva. Tutto black ovviamente, 200 pesos (10 euro) per la doppia con bagno privato e passa la paura.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzM0KkFzG4yQmsSCAOQBOi52tMtmRj3oRnoJvGRd286qg5NisqArxfCpxLLPeYet3GppnHBTUcNVJviS9gjoydoSD6mcnb41qM7qx02H0nMT9FL5ifg24dq3AzHmiIEAw0jz1dh30MjjDH8Oaovkm-tpLQwQt1W_MSWsgiPJzowG0KZgcbqlOnb97jqk/s1209/20230815_180044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzM0KkFzG4yQmsSCAOQBOi52tMtmRj3oRnoJvGRd286qg5NisqArxfCpxLLPeYet3GppnHBTUcNVJviS9gjoydoSD6mcnb41qM7qx02H0nMT9FL5ifg24dq3AzHmiIEAw0jz1dh30MjjDH8Oaovkm-tpLQwQt1W_MSWsgiPJzowG0KZgcbqlOnb97jqk/s320/20230815_180044.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41cnZ2L06poWPgNM5eeRxF8AEIy_wM4OM7n_o7JV5hSv8Lsm7Cn-7yd6Q_9YvjoqWdWd3osbijl08s5LqMzpul9LcvGQ2DGDYLxvgpCYwrO9judaAMoOqmNOnWbW3nigWvF_5EVnu2xb563PySM4aYSzIXEzLQvdfmwCsLrtIkcUrWuw6z9KWEBRYNdI/s979/20230815_180104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41cnZ2L06poWPgNM5eeRxF8AEIy_wM4OM7n_o7JV5hSv8Lsm7Cn-7yd6Q_9YvjoqWdWd3osbijl08s5LqMzpul9LcvGQ2DGDYLxvgpCYwrO9judaAMoOqmNOnWbW3nigWvF_5EVnu2xb563PySM4aYSzIXEzLQvdfmwCsLrtIkcUrWuw6z9KWEBRYNdI/s320/20230815_180104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSc22X7CD_CNxkrOZ0heCH0Le2u9e_KrG0jGyC-RL_gsanGkMzT09opPuMp_vDgCiFBgRiSBV3dzeMZZK6WNpVL9NXpv4wHElwUIAoVTd93arTrgz-zjGkrYq9TmIM1mNLOytA_q2CQwtAoEmPPVpbsE8odZrjmfd3vniaxLsaOdFbzeyRSNGbOfAhPBY/s1209/20230815_180518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSc22X7CD_CNxkrOZ0heCH0Le2u9e_KrG0jGyC-RL_gsanGkMzT09opPuMp_vDgCiFBgRiSBV3dzeMZZK6WNpVL9NXpv4wHElwUIAoVTd93arTrgz-zjGkrYq9TmIM1mNLOytA_q2CQwtAoEmPPVpbsE8odZrjmfd3vniaxLsaOdFbzeyRSNGbOfAhPBY/s320/20230815_180518.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55MTMDenLSy4U9kFI1yNlXpBvDurnPktgSqNCWgwm25We1nypXB-wPq9iqb6jZY-glvgpkBaf0hwNpcEXOlqzFICXuXEsEYHQzdvvDtV5DtZM8zBmq-mxe7UUOMXWIdfPmP8lli-dY2ETglkBM3U98j0OpMeilQNIKzThEQkG8GpBebyB8RC6JjqIQN8/s1209/20230815_181334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55MTMDenLSy4U9kFI1yNlXpBvDurnPktgSqNCWgwm25We1nypXB-wPq9iqb6jZY-glvgpkBaf0hwNpcEXOlqzFICXuXEsEYHQzdvvDtV5DtZM8zBmq-mxe7UUOMXWIdfPmP8lli-dY2ETglkBM3U98j0OpMeilQNIKzThEQkG8GpBebyB8RC6JjqIQN8/s320/20230815_181334.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Dopo un po' di riposo, usciamo a far due passi in paese, e poi compriamo la cena direttamente dai nostri ospiti, che ci forniscono due confezioni di noodles liofilizzati, cui aggiungono acqua bollente; guarniscono con piattino con sale, limone e salsa piccante. Poi ammettono candidamente di non aver idea di come si mangino i noodles. Gigi aggiunge tonno e piselli in scatola, qualche tortilla e un po' di biscotti, e anche stasera facciamo i signori.</div><div>Nel frattempo ho anche rivisto le tappe, risolto i vari dubbi leggendo esperienze di altri cicloviaggiatori e accorciato il tragitto. Domani, quindi, possiamo concederci il lusso di pedalare solo 60km, e fermarci nella bella Tepic, capitale del Nayarit.</div><div><br /> </div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-65584178365201999722023-08-13T09:47:00.002+02:002023-08-13T09:47:35.044+02:0049-52. Nelle città più violente del Messico, in mano ai cartelli, incontrare solo persone gentili. E ammalarsi male, maledetti da Montezuma: da Querétaro a Guadalajara con record forature<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8_bDDNhxNR7B-RgaqSFD40Uy7vf-VTsu-69QChUMezLZfdazF4H0LkmlRwIPHErOp--54pVFeIeHUjKlNwx6qJcaNd3QrKiDTOPRxrtQ7dbI2eFz6VK4RNxy9pKzqYfFcPplOFPtyUygHW4jRrThT-d7QbR8enj91BSuuvfmGbGVE3l5EEY8jTuiv6g/s4032/20230811_170115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic8_bDDNhxNR7B-RgaqSFD40Uy7vf-VTsu-69QChUMezLZfdazF4H0LkmlRwIPHErOp--54pVFeIeHUjKlNwx6qJcaNd3QrKiDTOPRxrtQ7dbI2eFz6VK4RNxy9pKzqYfFcPplOFPtyUygHW4jRrThT-d7QbR8enj91BSuuvfmGbGVE3l5EEY8jTuiv6g/w640-h480/20230811_170115.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJHTWLnajSnvcKBtxSnFxQqZ2rPIGAtia1NcheTAbAA3ijhkoQ6u4EregKn_bh2asHRAlQfW-DMtOoowZKxtezhKwCyqcEBvIYXLnu2TcLg1KsYBzmILuhPdh-wWLibDA_KIGeXeYgm-yCUu1FxJQq6QeK-qqpo8YYR6ZW3rTVtGXNlRdvXw0qrOBtu90/s4032/20230811_170133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2hNPzF2t9pkx8Ao-5mA_DBJRy46onljMPEW5q--ht7_rfipJEdQIpDGa8gPBDJfdJtilzpKHDragRZl5Ie23AWu1OCwYTmgkzNMLufxCbjjPBuQcQEH5AmV0Rf5-bFMJ8Ncz6b3DJ_TPBJlUFierBePVQ7LK5id8iNfmQ1KSf62VmBVWmYO--iCceww/s1209/20230809_160429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2hNPzF2t9pkx8Ao-5mA_DBJRy46onljMPEW5q--ht7_rfipJEdQIpDGa8gPBDJfdJtilzpKHDragRZl5Ie23AWu1OCwYTmgkzNMLufxCbjjPBuQcQEH5AmV0Rf5-bFMJ8Ncz6b3DJ_TPBJlUFierBePVQ7LK5id8iNfmQ1KSf62VmBVWmYO--iCceww/w640-h480/20230809_160429.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWr93zXo-HWuL2FP8aXL0WnrvysqqT9Gf-IQ08yIP0_DvYnjKAtZV9k7C3IWmNhTs8L5EJe1kJXABAYwET1eFJfqMYgf3rViZBTIstlWJGld2HNJnzoiOLfgRhSx6lQUR8hIOa3AHZtiWtizJTF4HUZr8kxysZp0VGsvx5hyaEo1eG5VnwdwBpve9N4Y/s1209/20230809_193025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWr93zXo-HWuL2FP8aXL0WnrvysqqT9Gf-IQ08yIP0_DvYnjKAtZV9k7C3IWmNhTs8L5EJe1kJXABAYwET1eFJfqMYgf3rViZBTIstlWJGld2HNJnzoiOLfgRhSx6lQUR8hIOa3AHZtiWtizJTF4HUZr8kxysZp0VGsvx5hyaEo1eG5VnwdwBpve9N4Y/w640-h480/20230809_193025.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicz7WqdoOxwihkG2PgGw0GakrKL2dYYC8cIRt19_-Z8TZm6FHnxfq1-PVSdF8Y46RsWwX9_1-rvePHJy4Y83xQeJVxgkd_ao_fFe2CYvAYvBtQKudui101xYc_Fo1hFMmczD80OvrGsIhV1w08A6V-LlJccH_UdIikquCO7J0ecm_od-luX2gqxVFf0t4/s4128/20230811_112054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="3096" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicz7WqdoOxwihkG2PgGw0GakrKL2dYYC8cIRt19_-Z8TZm6FHnxfq1-PVSdF8Y46RsWwX9_1-rvePHJy4Y83xQeJVxgkd_ao_fFe2CYvAYvBtQKudui101xYc_Fo1hFMmczD80OvrGsIhV1w08A6V-LlJccH_UdIikquCO7J0ecm_od-luX2gqxVFf0t4/w480-h640/20230811_112054.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbHI4oKMgA-Bvc_l3-gnFOiJSmbLq-IZbwrUV8ZBmSoknsgzJwzew1o1fKt-M3KVuMLlcT5emISlU2eP-o-DcIx-2Fuwo_RM44e4rg-wCo3VBz6qcbTbHGEXRxE8WsrhojdCw98c5Po7caduQ4grDMVDrpxi_ikZg0UgfLIG7WoipvtpF8_EATFu6xBeg/s2883/20230811_162139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2883" data-original-width="2144" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbHI4oKMgA-Bvc_l3-gnFOiJSmbLq-IZbwrUV8ZBmSoknsgzJwzew1o1fKt-M3KVuMLlcT5emISlU2eP-o-DcIx-2Fuwo_RM44e4rg-wCo3VBz6qcbTbHGEXRxE8WsrhojdCw98c5Po7caduQ4grDMVDrpxi_ikZg0UgfLIG7WoipvtpF8_EATFu6xBeg/w476-h640/20230811_162139.jpg" width="476" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5AoD8kk3GEXdgYQv_YjFujtnEP7rQdIRHoHaIF7P5MNjgOA-p6jjvvRk65_sF4z1A9Aty89l2o278qKFKuA5OxtajMqNmcc99ak7FI-YUK7iBejqwTMFzbzOh4-roYCl0cLZfU1Y13vuc5L6kyEPn7R029pbLPR1sHgNFWJMa1p45A41hUBDBUI6aVE/s1209/20230812_164035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5AoD8kk3GEXdgYQv_YjFujtnEP7rQdIRHoHaIF7P5MNjgOA-p6jjvvRk65_sF4z1A9Aty89l2o278qKFKuA5OxtajMqNmcc99ak7FI-YUK7iBejqwTMFzbzOh4-roYCl0cLZfU1Y13vuc5L6kyEPn7R029pbLPR1sHgNFWJMa1p45A41hUBDBUI6aVE/w480-h640/20230812_164035.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>9/8<div>Santiago de Querétaro-Salamanca</div><div>97km</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">E' sera. Davanti alla scrivania da cui sto scrivendo c'è una finestra grande quanto tutta la parete, che affaccia alla piazza centrale di Salamanca, nello stato di Guanajuato. E' una delle città più pericolose del Messico, che conta oltre 500 omicidi volontari all'anno, senza considerare i rapimenti, i furti a mano armata, gli assalti ai veicoli e gli incendi a scopo di ritorsione. Qui si contendono la piazza alcuni tra i cartelli più violenti, tra cui il Santa Rosa de Lima e il CJNG (Cartel de Jalisco Nueva Generacion). I membri non si fanno scrupoli e se per dare un messaggio ai rivali devono ammazzare 15 persone in un club, di cui 14 innocenti lì per caso, lo fanno. Se devono sparare su un gruppo di adolescenti davanti a una scuola, o far saltare in aria un autobus, lo fanno. Non c'è atrocità troppo grande, non c'è vittima troppo giovane o anziana, e per rendersene conto basta leggere gli articoli di nera dei giornali locali e nazionali. A ciò si aggiunge la quantità di "desaparecidos", persone rapite e sparite nel nulla, spesso davanti a testimoni o a telecamere. La Farnesina sconsiglia viaggi in queste zone, e il dipartimento affari esteri degli USA chiede fermamente ai suoi cittadini di non percorrere la statale 45 e l'autopista 45D, che collegano le tre città maggiormente interessate dalla criminalità organizzata: Ceylan, Salamanca, Irapuato. Indovina indovinello, che strada abbiamo percorso noi oggi? Esatto! Quella che nemmeno i local si fidano più a calcare. Va detto che qui non è solo il traffico di droga a richiamare l'attenzione dei cartelli, ma anche la presenza di raffinerie e centri di stoccaggio e smistamento di carburante, benzina, gas. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">La cosa interessante è che da oltre mezz'ora un nutrito gruppo di soldati armati fino ai denti marcia, accompagnato dalla banda, in piazza, dove si è svolta la cerimonia dell'ammainabandiera. Devono dimostrare alla popolazione di essere presenti sul territorio? Non è che ci facciano, loro malgrado, gran bella figura, con queste marcette e queste parate.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma torniamo a stamattina, quando il sole ci ha svegliati in quel di Queretaro, in una città ancora privva di corrente dalla tempesta di ieri sera. Questa zona di altopiani centrali, fino alla conquista spagnola, era abitata da violente tribù seminomadi ben note agli aztechi, note con il nome di chichimechi. Furono sottomessi dai conquistadores dopo aspra resistenza solo alla fine del XVI secolo, quando furono in massa ridotti in schiavitù e costretti a lavorare nelle miniere. Questa zona storicamente inquieta fu anche culla della rivolta dei criollos per l'indipendenza dalla Spagna. La guerra fu pianificata a Querétaro e a San Miguel Allende, e scoppiò nel 1810 a Dolores Hidalgo. Un secolo più tardi Madero elaborava il suo rivoluzionario Plan de San Luis Potosì, mentre nel 1917 a Querétaro fu firmata la Costituzione. In tempi recenti la regione ha conosciuto la prosperità economica grazie al boom delle industrie automobilistiche, aerospaziali, manifatturiere e agricole. Qui vengono creativi statunitensi e residenti di Città del Messico in cerca di tranquillità (come mi hanno confermato gli host del Regina, che onorano la tradizione).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Querétaro fu fondata dagli otomì nel XV secolo, per essere presto sottomessi agli aztechi e, nel 1531, agli spagnoli, I francescani ne fecero una base per il loro apostolato non solo in Messico ma anche nel sud degli States. Come anticipato prima, qui si pianificò l'indipendenza, grazie a Hidalgo e i suoi colleghi, e alla "corregidora", Josefa Ortiz, che, pur scoperta e rinchiusa nell'odierno palazzo del governo, riuscì ad avvisare i suoi e a innescare la chiamata alle armi. Dopo la firma della Costituzione del '17, qui si formò il PNR, futuro PRI, che dal '29 e per buona parte del XX secolo ha dominato la scena politica messicana.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Noi di Querétaro decidiamo di non visitare il centro, che sicuramente merita una piacevole passeggiata tra vie pedonali, piazze, chiese e il Museo del calendario. Ci limitiamo a uscirne, così come siamo entrati, attraversando le periferie in espansione (è una delle città in più rapida crescita dell'emisfero settentrionale), dove traffico, ottimismo, caos e dinamismo avanzano di pari passo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La tappa, di quasi 100km, è quasi del tutto pianeggiante, fatte salve alcune morbide colline. Percorriamo la famigerata 45, la strada da cui i turisti dovrebbero tenersi lontani, stando agli avvisi statunitensi e della Farnesina. In realtà, grazie alle larghe corsie dedicate ai bus e ai mezzi pesanti, e agli snodi che separano la percorrenza veloce da quella lenta o lentissima, come la nostra, ci sentiamo discretamente al sicuro. Dopo Città del Messico tutto sembra più pedalabile! Quanto alla gente, riceviamo sorrisoni, saluti con la mano sia dai passanti sia dai policia, dei gran "suerte!" e varie manifestazioni di incoraggiamento. Insomma, pare tutto in ordine. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quindi si va, e ben spediti, nonostante il vento contrario che alza polvere e particole di fieno che ci fanno lacrimare gli occhi. In un soffio siamo al confine tra stato di Querétaro e Guanajuato, nei cui altopiani rocciosi si nascondevano immense ricchezze non ignorate dagli spagnoli. Dalle miniere di questo luogo si estrasse il 40% della produzione mondiale di argento, permettendo lusso e sfarzi ai magnati e schiavitù o stipendi da fame ai nativi costretti a lavorare nelle miniere. Non è un caso che qui scoppiò poi la rivolta dei criollos, quando il re Carlo III, nel 1765, decurtò le loro quote di partecipazione ai profitti. Porelli loro!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLz1jACgRuZkNn8GXzt9T-z-U08zFnGS1Y8Iipz400DMgD6WpDLT3UeP_sDSChcIHdxMItDIOSpVUiL3zCsFMsZisYDwJU3CjHhgfYpPTo8R6E8cyc3EPtOymyMbBcYQmUW9_J96NsPrab0s6ywTwGektqN6_4Lbc7t9wBTiDLPAdoEq_eIHPgxoj-28/s1209/20230809_094247.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLz1jACgRuZkNn8GXzt9T-z-U08zFnGS1Y8Iipz400DMgD6WpDLT3UeP_sDSChcIHdxMItDIOSpVUiL3zCsFMsZisYDwJU3CjHhgfYpPTo8R6E8cyc3EPtOymyMbBcYQmUW9_J96NsPrab0s6ywTwGektqN6_4Lbc7t9wBTiDLPAdoEq_eIHPgxoj-28/s320/20230809_094247.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5MdZ62vj4Xu2sgXxlZDYG-nkAWwbwRqr3raYqS1256IvhThjHhPi5qDOe_MgyLrpeZ14YVDGjun1JmqBx0i3iVWDnZ8yvt6xW-TaL3B9AcuPs__rQt8xPLvl0JHv4ZVRuH9DjMRhZzhspAx5xUbOKkF7lW80lenrjr_UwRm_zdfmuW87bvyKY6jo9XK8/s1209/20230809_094252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5MdZ62vj4Xu2sgXxlZDYG-nkAWwbwRqr3raYqS1256IvhThjHhPi5qDOe_MgyLrpeZ14YVDGjun1JmqBx0i3iVWDnZ8yvt6xW-TaL3B9AcuPs__rQt8xPLvl0JHv4ZVRuH9DjMRhZzhspAx5xUbOKkF7lW80lenrjr_UwRm_zdfmuW87bvyKY6jo9XK8/s320/20230809_094252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A noi si presenta un paesaggio piano e verdissimo, fertile, coltivato ad agave e mais e altri cereali, qui in modo meccanizzato ed intensivo. Il clima è perfetto: caldo, ma non troppo, e nemmeno umido. Si pedala in condizioni ottimali, anche perchè il fondo è ottimo e il traffico molto ridotto. Canticchio tra me e me Gaber, la strada. Davanti a noi ne corre una davvero piacevole, che dà l'idea di portare lontano, verso orizzonti nuovi. <i>"C'è solo la strada su cui puoi contare/ La strada è l'unica salvezza/ C'è solo la voglia e il bisogno di uscire/ Di esporsi nella strada e nella piazza/ Perché il giudizio universale/ Non passa per le case/ Le case dove noi ci nascondiamo/ Bisogna ritornare nella strada/ Nella strada per conoscere chi siamo".</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwg3pU5CUqbI0mqBPxtvJhykhhBQRmcrf8bP6Zjeoqyz2HfZ6gNFqwRjUqomLLb_-4CNUPEgbg5-qGLoVfeE4tDo72xt1PK5eZ_FsHZlyejlFyDq-sgckAmnCdrXkOgAVXCn7ksYv5V7u3Sw0qXoaFONyZaeYf6oAKOCKOuEjnm0gI4mi7ZbJ-GAEJMU/s1209/20230809_100913.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwg3pU5CUqbI0mqBPxtvJhykhhBQRmcrf8bP6Zjeoqyz2HfZ6gNFqwRjUqomLLb_-4CNUPEgbg5-qGLoVfeE4tDo72xt1PK5eZ_FsHZlyejlFyDq-sgckAmnCdrXkOgAVXCn7ksYv5V7u3Sw0qXoaFONyZaeYf6oAKOCKOuEjnm0gI4mi7ZbJ-GAEJMU/s320/20230809_100913.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPdtSazMPslt_OPgmaT5_7MAsVMvSUbwO2govZSyishDFsVCi2XCejp_4gfmoiOZ1mAdQLdrtM7xn68mQ5R-40hsxbXCoaPRv8Xj67MUyGvvHkaY1NF_dXyxCRdHreUZVGojLmoTSzQiaW7e1ihvgswZmJZCepCHl5fNkfy99OwBicJc1rfvJACRQ5VNA/s1209/20230809_100916.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPdtSazMPslt_OPgmaT5_7MAsVMvSUbwO2govZSyishDFsVCi2XCejp_4gfmoiOZ1mAdQLdrtM7xn68mQ5R-40hsxbXCoaPRv8Xj67MUyGvvHkaY1NF_dXyxCRdHreUZVGojLmoTSzQiaW7e1ihvgswZmJZCepCHl5fNkfy99OwBicJc1rfvJACRQ5VNA/s320/20230809_100916.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxGkiQRDgjR6S8zG0_sAu_VysgWZ4kHMwgUccBiRDwqhIMUU2Lo6ogrYAuERBE77P5r-0nGMt51_1Iwp6anvfCp78I8HoUusQR-ib5Lpoyn4wTwyzSl0creTlLe-FLD5ClWpCJ3KAHHc9mCCxFtiSGPC9yDlnxDyTI-U20Dcz2kusaXB5j_OiKfJDBFKk/s1209/20230809_101846.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxGkiQRDgjR6S8zG0_sAu_VysgWZ4kHMwgUccBiRDwqhIMUU2Lo6ogrYAuERBE77P5r-0nGMt51_1Iwp6anvfCp78I8HoUusQR-ib5Lpoyn4wTwyzSl0creTlLe-FLD5ClWpCJ3KAHHc9mCCxFtiSGPC9yDlnxDyTI-U20Dcz2kusaXB5j_OiKfJDBFKk/s320/20230809_101846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEnWPB1FJGAQpFBeZhsiPOCII13ne0nETICq1LypR1YmCQwxIH8i2ca5beJ6caUyAIvPk6qvyTds33uQW4Uh39QFqkcI61d4J7ja5ebhTeKpL3WpKrKGIaK_F_tIDZzBLhLxCirZRzwIwQjcto779MRlF3YD2ROCPrEguYzLkRN3IIW2frFUnjBpz4vE/s1209/20230809_102853.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEnWPB1FJGAQpFBeZhsiPOCII13ne0nETICq1LypR1YmCQwxIH8i2ca5beJ6caUyAIvPk6qvyTds33uQW4Uh39QFqkcI61d4J7ja5ebhTeKpL3WpKrKGIaK_F_tIDZzBLhLxCirZRzwIwQjcto779MRlF3YD2ROCPrEguYzLkRN3IIW2frFUnjBpz4vE/s320/20230809_102853.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di mezzogiorno siamo già a metà della tappa, a Celaya, altro grande buco nero di criminalità, impunità, corruzione e connivenza. Ma anche cultura, economia e servizi, trattandosi della terza città dello stato per numero di abitanti. Qui è passato il fiume travolgente della storia, in modo non dissimile da Querétaro e si sono combattute sanguinose battaglie tra villisti e obregonisti. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKuaWZs0MSM2Lsx5bdpelIDwnmtW9LF-w-W3aK3Mc85Lz0yKRCwOXau5AVyQXLNvp0XN6_n8vvvDkquhl3DLYw4ufb6WuPndWpnyLClQURhtHB9MAnX2u7yeU-8DpEuzjt3-BptYeykimHb5uWGUetiH2yLGb3h1UN1LJYZMFp1ORmo6uMEZVb6F3GVo/s1209/20230809_113634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKuaWZs0MSM2Lsx5bdpelIDwnmtW9LF-w-W3aK3Mc85Lz0yKRCwOXau5AVyQXLNvp0XN6_n8vvvDkquhl3DLYw4ufb6WuPndWpnyLClQURhtHB9MAnX2u7yeU-8DpEuzjt3-BptYeykimHb5uWGUetiH2yLGb3h1UN1LJYZMFp1ORmo6uMEZVb6F3GVo/s320/20230809_113634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs8p4MU_13dMYEqvh3pW7WNq5IXzIvxM6ONK-DKZYSJ3STJpYc_x-0fbfk01Q6MSHfrBMEYt5eq6iW3XIEtoQCm38FIhft06fcXH8_FVSdNNrcMBCJnav-sv51tNxG4qL2qraWbI_SzaVBTEllgvSIKIgHizDAOu1_2C1CwrQgR8dZVOopyELv1mJnj0g/s1209/20230809_120252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs8p4MU_13dMYEqvh3pW7WNq5IXzIvxM6ONK-DKZYSJ3STJpYc_x-0fbfk01Q6MSHfrBMEYt5eq6iW3XIEtoQCm38FIhft06fcXH8_FVSdNNrcMBCJnav-sv51tNxG4qL2qraWbI_SzaVBTEllgvSIKIgHizDAOu1_2C1CwrQgR8dZVOopyELv1mJnj0g/s320/20230809_120252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0puDD_nS7xAMQyWRpmJmssfY7yByYQMQ-e41KEwOh2LFEVT1Oc_I0fCi94-qYTrmKqP-Yn0Km0mi_ZPcZmwO5OL3LIHPHANIciat-sWBwYe1CJlcCh3FjaJio-3VjtTe-kfTphklD8ABiZp_ZpxAUG6HMP9bqgY0TkjH8IVsNYDiJ10hv0YX3DRMgwlo/s1209/20230809_120311.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0puDD_nS7xAMQyWRpmJmssfY7yByYQMQ-e41KEwOh2LFEVT1Oc_I0fCi94-qYTrmKqP-Yn0Km0mi_ZPcZmwO5OL3LIHPHANIciat-sWBwYe1CJlcCh3FjaJio-3VjtTe-kfTphklD8ABiZp_ZpxAUG6HMP9bqgY0TkjH8IVsNYDiJ10hv0YX3DRMgwlo/s320/20230809_120311.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciti da Celaya decidiamo di fare una sosta gelato e caffè presso un tranquillo benzinaio. Qui leggo tutte quelle rassicuranti notizie sulla criminalità di queste zone, e, poco per volta, metto Gigi al corrente del vaso di Pandora che ho appena scoperchiato. Sapevo dei cartelli e degli avvisi della Farnesina, ma non avevo letto i singoli episodi di nera. Agghiaccianti! Meglio arrivare presto, far spesa e stare al sicuro in hotel la sera. Appena usciti dal bar veniamo approcciati da un omone barbuto che parcheggia a pochi metri da noi e ci chiama. "Ellamadonna, già ci siamo?!" penso. E invece, dopo qualche domanda sul nostro viaggio (cui rispondo in modo molto vago) e una risata sul "No soy gringa", chiede se ci piace il piccante. "Sì! Ma ora dobbiamo andare..." ribatto un po' sulla difensiva, pensando volesse proporci un pranzo insieme. "Allora vi piacerà questo piatto locale, è fatto con carne grigliata di manzo e una salsa di peperoncino nero della zona! Sono gorditas, ancora calde" dice sorridendo, e cacciandoci in mano un sacchetto tiepido da cui esce un profumo da acquolina. Nemmeno il tempo di ringraziarlo ed è già andato via sgommando.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsCBnf3WM9sR4Fgh3EIDBiJMWpuDwhKNczyYPDo0uhatTmhNDx9zMoorOltqgyW648LEasg9mjmnq5OY3uEsp6UfFfw-1_mFTEdXfESOug8C1Y_P7P-IblRBu-zq6YpOgMEnKttLa4Oteux2-xZcMqtiZEcuSfLx5w7QEMMghKZn_Tu0DKKV7n9jtEk0/s1209/20230809_130107.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsCBnf3WM9sR4Fgh3EIDBiJMWpuDwhKNczyYPDo0uhatTmhNDx9zMoorOltqgyW648LEasg9mjmnq5OY3uEsp6UfFfw-1_mFTEdXfESOug8C1Y_P7P-IblRBu-zq6YpOgMEnKttLa4Oteux2-xZcMqtiZEcuSfLx5w7QEMMghKZn_Tu0DKKV7n9jtEk0/s320/20230809_130107.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Carico i due kg di gorditas unte e fragranti nel borsino, con gran cura, e ripartiamo. Dopo le news sull'attività dei cartelli, Gigi mette il turbo e percorriamo i restanti kilometri a velocità sostenuta, tra raffinerie e impianti di lavorazione dei cereali. Incontriamo diverse famiglie, alcune con bambini, altre solo coppie di anziani, intente a raccogliere rifiuti di plastica e metallo a bordo strada, per rivenderle in città. Ci viene incontro anche un pellegrino che cammina sull'asfalto, quasi contro alle auto, con una statua ben grande di Gesù, credo in legno, legata sulla schiena a mo' di zaino. Il famoso zaino de Cristo!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TGKW4XjD9LoMqSK5WjwfPsBOOpUVJJ65hod1Ezj7liMTNLx1BoI-fJ05cPPK80g_viM_YoynLZEEKevoUWHW1jCVVi8swaTgHzW4fxJSmg5ZgNuSJgCwg72pxmSGxpPLBVAHsieScst3REaGdtq8mk04mRNF_V2GsOobG_n7UufEpbrAfx_5PN_ntdo/s1209/20230809_133741.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TGKW4XjD9LoMqSK5WjwfPsBOOpUVJJ65hod1Ezj7liMTNLx1BoI-fJ05cPPK80g_viM_YoynLZEEKevoUWHW1jCVVi8swaTgHzW4fxJSmg5ZgNuSJgCwg72pxmSGxpPLBVAHsieScst3REaGdtq8mk04mRNF_V2GsOobG_n7UufEpbrAfx_5PN_ntdo/s320/20230809_133741.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWey8n7UQUrxt91z2VxZHj2XLpcz1EPHkWUTGMaNycPmvKryTijosA8aHxogON5oUWHPAtLSTSCvBSlxBm-ifFCaB14xGFmnRebZHrexE12MhJjUNgTLFLqx3I0TEBVwdlpQUkpI-4E3dv5P_GGLP0BH_s2V4rPdilrd3FU4FayK42JdIyjTgj61M9F44/s1209/20230809_133748.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWey8n7UQUrxt91z2VxZHj2XLpcz1EPHkWUTGMaNycPmvKryTijosA8aHxogON5oUWHPAtLSTSCvBSlxBm-ifFCaB14xGFmnRebZHrexE12MhJjUNgTLFLqx3I0TEBVwdlpQUkpI-4E3dv5P_GGLP0BH_s2V4rPdilrd3FU4FayK42JdIyjTgj61M9F44/s320/20230809_133748.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMKKvHtTtPEGCh2w-A-ByKTQDGyYjxkR0XSATzw-Qdb6VgZXorTyEPDLbj--7s3pxtrXyQKdoWiRhAK1WHtDROLS-UHESwmbUsKr7C0EPRXkUTq1g9SojMhFz4VhP-ryqmL9Zj-MJo8s5JbnKmvN8gKYkRcQekmShcFZDXmFD4zYoCP4j4g7BkrzY1wA/s1209/20230809_135341.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMKKvHtTtPEGCh2w-A-ByKTQDGyYjxkR0XSATzw-Qdb6VgZXorTyEPDLbj--7s3pxtrXyQKdoWiRhAK1WHtDROLS-UHESwmbUsKr7C0EPRXkUTq1g9SojMhFz4VhP-ryqmL9Zj-MJo8s5JbnKmvN8gKYkRcQekmShcFZDXmFD4zYoCP4j4g7BkrzY1wA/s320/20230809_135341.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_8uMReXjeYheDj2z6Y3wuzOdEVYigaIqkYi49lwruHs3WQQaX9mDR_0mZb6nHAREjK0UR_shBWyLK9ftcyMPQ0_KiwnGZbPcHqfnGfv3QHMDygdg8ajYW1rBXhULMDRrccHChj4D31JZMHJWNuMy7VvZ-MA8-40GjEsxawhbo2r7ScpLckkL4swqnbs/s1209/20230809_142330.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_8uMReXjeYheDj2z6Y3wuzOdEVYigaIqkYi49lwruHs3WQQaX9mDR_0mZb6nHAREjK0UR_shBWyLK9ftcyMPQ0_KiwnGZbPcHqfnGfv3QHMDygdg8ajYW1rBXhULMDRrccHChj4D31JZMHJWNuMy7VvZ-MA8-40GjEsxawhbo2r7ScpLckkL4swqnbs/s320/20230809_142330.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnzFFSKW7WAFfc4_fmh1VdVsx3Q0uQi0RkUQqvB8CSMYmzf16RI1xcI9dgRdvAx3V-DGh_x2qYyxXEWNI5TljwwynQNoZUA-1zhd-8OW0QcYdalP1Jsk3htLFkFS0Sud4AKsu5YHXss3ZXyH9aAATlBbvGbfanOUsA_PYUY89BvrPu1HP5jix6SerGdwQ/s1209/20230809_143607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnzFFSKW7WAFfc4_fmh1VdVsx3Q0uQi0RkUQqvB8CSMYmzf16RI1xcI9dgRdvAx3V-DGh_x2qYyxXEWNI5TljwwynQNoZUA-1zhd-8OW0QcYdalP1Jsk3htLFkFS0Sud4AKsu5YHXss3ZXyH9aAATlBbvGbfanOUsA_PYUY89BvrPu1HP5jix6SerGdwQ/s320/20230809_143607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Più ci avviciniamo a Salamanca, più aumentano i cartelli che invitano a denunciare i crimini di cui si è vittime o testimoni, anche in forma anonima. Per fortuna non è il nostro caso. Raggiungiamo quasi trattenendo il fiato il centro, che appare molto più vivace e tranquillo di quanto immaginassi. D'altronde la maggioranza di chi vive qui non ha nulla a che fare con la criminalità e porta avanti la sua esistenza come ovunque altrove. L'albergo che ho prenotato, il Santa Maria, affaccia proprio sulla piazza principale. E' un tre stelle, o lo era, ed è arredato con oggetti così antichi che nemmeno riesco a riconoscere, non so come si chiamino o a cosa servano. Alla reception ci controllano i documenti, cosa ben rara. Mentre aspetto leggo un biglietto che recita: "Vieni in albergo perchè sei vittima di minacce, anche telefoniche? Noi possiamo aiutarti, questo è luogo sicuro". Meno male.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbXwqgpeL7fPKSqrh_Ek8O7laKdfEgzLanT0SAAJEasinCRb7goQgA_l08FM1WI758T4dH4KKZOCUcWNNZMwCFLlYBoJSDJi8v4nQKrwvuSc_sDZ89t4lcipTj76GR7w7cbOEUE8mMfKiGspfZ6XYy5Cy_LEugEg3qy6Cf_EPWSLtPEU3X7oQBswqpTdg/s1209/20230809_145708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbXwqgpeL7fPKSqrh_Ek8O7laKdfEgzLanT0SAAJEasinCRb7goQgA_l08FM1WI758T4dH4KKZOCUcWNNZMwCFLlYBoJSDJi8v4nQKrwvuSc_sDZ89t4lcipTj76GR7w7cbOEUE8mMfKiGspfZ6XYy5Cy_LEugEg3qy6Cf_EPWSLtPEU3X7oQBswqpTdg/s320/20230809_145708.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rScddAxsO1hGt7tBFflHv9YYImoco10qloEmhR1FKznmI2AwLgCYjn84_zNe1WoS81aIKhj2BqQV3Sym_R_CJN1wsNT1HzJUhFzTRjkNaZEExxypph5Wkk-Xm2wHYbpFKwPbERoWtOQyA_9B_c52xnPyc2NIIuS9DctyzEQzA4T6xtjTCUf_l1uE6qQ/s1209/20230809_145712.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rScddAxsO1hGt7tBFflHv9YYImoco10qloEmhR1FKznmI2AwLgCYjn84_zNe1WoS81aIKhj2BqQV3Sym_R_CJN1wsNT1HzJUhFzTRjkNaZEExxypph5Wkk-Xm2wHYbpFKwPbERoWtOQyA_9B_c52xnPyc2NIIuS9DctyzEQzA4T6xtjTCUf_l1uE6qQ/s320/20230809_145712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpqR9xMnEQC9ZLdbruoapHzFW2cC7SI9dSG3kxSslddBJMYk61BmsQSIMe2ssfZS0pLkrt6nPVsN8P5vtK_1CE0jrlFONxpXNaQ0BFIacs8EpaKS_ysYB_jA0Rvq_Fxavp5MWnmlkmZL-Sbq0enNYmLtBfk2Q945t0rGr_Vf61b3Zgi9R7jEXnrQATbLw/s1209/20230809_145715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpqR9xMnEQC9ZLdbruoapHzFW2cC7SI9dSG3kxSslddBJMYk61BmsQSIMe2ssfZS0pLkrt6nPVsN8P5vtK_1CE0jrlFONxpXNaQ0BFIacs8EpaKS_ysYB_jA0Rvq_Fxavp5MWnmlkmZL-Sbq0enNYmLtBfk2Q945t0rGr_Vf61b3Zgi9R7jEXnrQATbLw/s320/20230809_145715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhud8rXofeb0zjz5r7TxK_qeug8armxLgmA2Co0CxH4NkVLixDiSJZXchQIH7ieC2998ajXb54CK3IQzCc4fZHpER50uTqPUxOvqaFJ46H2zIzVqzgWmnPjePyIWqeyW0GHifghpCv0WXFuVWphJyuwqI6Ae5xXfYN07i1FCfG_apa77N6eSeMRa3wQJh0/s1209/20230809_145816.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhud8rXofeb0zjz5r7TxK_qeug8armxLgmA2Co0CxH4NkVLixDiSJZXchQIH7ieC2998ajXb54CK3IQzCc4fZHpER50uTqPUxOvqaFJ46H2zIzVqzgWmnPjePyIWqeyW0GHifghpCv0WXFuVWphJyuwqI6Ae5xXfYN07i1FCfG_apa77N6eSeMRa3wQJh0/s320/20230809_145816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prendiamo possesso della stanza, laviamo noi stessi e i vestiti (non è dato sapere quando faremo la prossima lavatrice, forse direttamente a casa, a settembre) e ammiriamo il panorama dal finestrone. Sembra tutto tranquillissimo! "Ma son le quattro del pomeriggio" commenta laconico Gigi. Ha anche ragione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbaQNk2nezusBzJjj9-gO8vcdza0sB1ZGYb-N6nK9kcksQQKtUh8wZBpG3pNJEmqPaiq3hB43qDT7w5c_y1vtPVEg55u_-4W0xceu0xaFVEio8aN-7kt41XFBnvNb_EjjvT1dZLoUTD0f50ngtXWPtEUr6FAiWHXboIU3Drg9RFT6HiBcu0Fxc_5I3N8/s1209/20230809_154505.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbaQNk2nezusBzJjj9-gO8vcdza0sB1ZGYb-N6nK9kcksQQKtUh8wZBpG3pNJEmqPaiq3hB43qDT7w5c_y1vtPVEg55u_-4W0xceu0xaFVEio8aN-7kt41XFBnvNb_EjjvT1dZLoUTD0f50ngtXWPtEUr6FAiWHXboIU3Drg9RFT6HiBcu0Fxc_5I3N8/s320/20230809_154505.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EJR-S6wyBOvyyZtOIuNwGNtgdv0ONo4ItM5zUjgoBjBJ3hJqfYD5Ws_JGD9YIiCXtnWAyU8K49S0HD33vmQURzq-Q6NIqd0PQMHe_CVsGAZLT4KNwC6rnFyWNjaIMTLMh1TIi-t3i2Y4Xat2V8G-q8kHrg6qyKwyz2mQ5_qGJTLfOoMSIgx8O6tNMVk/s1209/20230809_154540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EJR-S6wyBOvyyZtOIuNwGNtgdv0ONo4ItM5zUjgoBjBJ3hJqfYD5Ws_JGD9YIiCXtnWAyU8K49S0HD33vmQURzq-Q6NIqd0PQMHe_CVsGAZLT4KNwC6rnFyWNjaIMTLMh1TIi-t3i2Y4Xat2V8G-q8kHrg6qyKwyz2mQ5_qGJTLfOoMSIgx8O6tNMVk/s320/20230809_154540.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP99neIOROZ44CdERjXTMwWsbacwD4vILIjuCz76Lrx15zpJ12uXTBO7lMMuO2fffBbxybs7BGybZ82TvqKg08r0csP6a13RdmlScQVIRG2iJhw2xCltErdXkgO2PZ3PA6iLHEMprl8zVpQ1ubbHeiVxwmD_u2oEyWHP36xvehgzqgsL-seb55WaHi1cc/s1209/20230809_154544.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP99neIOROZ44CdERjXTMwWsbacwD4vILIjuCz76Lrx15zpJ12uXTBO7lMMuO2fffBbxybs7BGybZ82TvqKg08r0csP6a13RdmlScQVIRG2iJhw2xCltErdXkgO2PZ3PA6iLHEMprl8zVpQ1ubbHeiVxwmD_u2oEyWHP36xvehgzqgsL-seb55WaHi1cc/s320/20230809_154544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjla3ebyIMg_I0zmPL_RbdL-yc6kPUSkFiH8YZuTtywR7c91FCQBJlaLFGERYYZ-Qt7W7ZjkGkC3oKPJodZ09bP0cIkRxldnYDTbQuOzC3kMlvyGhzTdeDA162Uft1-muAzr9xr-JJ7GInQIoSHLPtA4-KYlL10yX5SCgDObqxwJEib57m5VKeaL6AhKZY/s1209/20230809_155856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjla3ebyIMg_I0zmPL_RbdL-yc6kPUSkFiH8YZuTtywR7c91FCQBJlaLFGERYYZ-Qt7W7ZjkGkC3oKPJodZ09bP0cIkRxldnYDTbQuOzC3kMlvyGhzTdeDA162Uft1-muAzr9xr-JJ7GInQIoSHLPtA4-KYlL10yX5SCgDObqxwJEib57m5VKeaL6AhKZY/s320/20230809_155856.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYes6kAVN9yhqkUb6W9hk2S6jPd3q2stDXfL2KCgIvn7Pw-2hqXyW_piAkqGWXit6nNA2jFanlflylaB8xG5TzOO3jNZ9Mng3-FqWeStBdwV7h1xvKWCgvRZWPV4Uw4WM6y_kfvw1ofw4NePLL4MnqTf7N2pPmGTje4vJd8EZO0v9OegueUHJuwprkMIc/s1209/20230809_155942.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYes6kAVN9yhqkUb6W9hk2S6jPd3q2stDXfL2KCgIvn7Pw-2hqXyW_piAkqGWXit6nNA2jFanlflylaB8xG5TzOO3jNZ9Mng3-FqWeStBdwV7h1xvKWCgvRZWPV4Uw4WM6y_kfvw1ofw4NePLL4MnqTf7N2pPmGTje4vJd8EZO0v9OegueUHJuwprkMIc/s320/20230809_155942.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciamo quasi subito, sia per visitare un minimo la città, sia per procacciarci cibo e acqua ed evitare di uscire stasera con il buio. Davanti a noi si trova il Museo Hidalgo, proprio accanto alla piazza centrale, con il busto di Hidalgo, la bandiera issata e la chiesa di San Agustin.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTzRCMrzrXBbyjgs6VadhDVlElNFl00AtPyaUH-WDMmnHnQQMG9Ww_Xa9EH5jIyHcYnHW3gC-A61MMGQ154JV91Rip4FPM1XJROeavw80b7j-h55VSen0yp39BJdcz563mpSqMbBEXBmiS0DfYcqJvlSQuEz-nrKWs0EIzLtoLM_r46IeVm7wMdImOH0/s1209/20230809_160121.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTzRCMrzrXBbyjgs6VadhDVlElNFl00AtPyaUH-WDMmnHnQQMG9Ww_Xa9EH5jIyHcYnHW3gC-A61MMGQ154JV91Rip4FPM1XJROeavw80b7j-h55VSen0yp39BJdcz563mpSqMbBEXBmiS0DfYcqJvlSQuEz-nrKWs0EIzLtoLM_r46IeVm7wMdImOH0/s320/20230809_160121.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwI9aZgKXBcMqD2XpsBgl8bVKezYuQVxy-nbHLI6oRBEbcHyx3Q_PjsNNFttrgEH7R0U-p_43KN7ybq9vWRPN7li4q-w0Y0PRk_OuZ8OqoY6Urp-rnSoUzUElczbG7VOUlrEKezpcixa7xGtceEPnLdwUGxumh7K6waVMXlLkukC2HCiN3x_B5qS3UcD4/s1209/20230809_160332.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwI9aZgKXBcMqD2XpsBgl8bVKezYuQVxy-nbHLI6oRBEbcHyx3Q_PjsNNFttrgEH7R0U-p_43KN7ybq9vWRPN7li4q-w0Y0PRk_OuZ8OqoY6Urp-rnSoUzUElczbG7VOUlrEKezpcixa7xGtceEPnLdwUGxumh7K6waVMXlLkukC2HCiN3x_B5qS3UcD4/s320/20230809_160332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4CZZJ_LTGaoJrLFR_f1pFoPxpuvOtBqiH1AayiqQbNxhZWgFn7pXkUvuORjWUcrlVMeFZHG14bvY6KyaOFavYHNZaQI1S9joKTv7rPNsR0cG09t2nc1YH_VMidvWQ59JA9LvVurCN9kcOf6z3n2HDdykBIIUDt85u2k4wpM48dy-FDufDPZEq_y3oNo/s1209/20230809_160429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4CZZJ_LTGaoJrLFR_f1pFoPxpuvOtBqiH1AayiqQbNxhZWgFn7pXkUvuORjWUcrlVMeFZHG14bvY6KyaOFavYHNZaQI1S9joKTv7rPNsR0cG09t2nc1YH_VMidvWQ59JA9LvVurCN9kcOf6z3n2HDdykBIIUDt85u2k4wpM48dy-FDufDPZEq_y3oNo/s320/20230809_160429.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXtVLvgP8N6Me1EUYKKhlXi9aydF64cR9teIPbUME24PwiysovDitFcUkT0LmKxZmdyyBq10oZ5GvdA458BLquWNb31GygpE-Pt7GFdyEQnKclWRflIojCK_cwwoICOvrZquXoCCbGb9-11IYSNAeyjtxMgmxSKlmJK8MCoYdekIu02BWY2iH0xPokbE/s1209/20230809_160504.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXtVLvgP8N6Me1EUYKKhlXi9aydF64cR9teIPbUME24PwiysovDitFcUkT0LmKxZmdyyBq10oZ5GvdA458BLquWNb31GygpE-Pt7GFdyEQnKclWRflIojCK_cwwoICOvrZquXoCCbGb9-11IYSNAeyjtxMgmxSKlmJK8MCoYdekIu02BWY2iH0xPokbE/s320/20230809_160504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Visto il clima sereno, passeggiamo fino al Santuario Senor del Hospital e alla piazza del Jardin Constitucion, con i suoi portici e gli ambulantes, oltre ai baracchini del cibo e dei lustrascarpe.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6v634O15E_gVPANW_shYFuaIhizxK-AuX-CwRKOhzcs8EKDDsdwBUD_-K3qfivBqE25YHH159xMQxNOWVIgB6wDnNgR9bd0955ox1UrystsRT1FztQ7tTX_iE6FExdsNpXAZMxZeqmZoEa0vtt9nqJ9pE21931hw3jNmFIjXd7-erlOSG51_LmpBxOQ/s1209/20230809_160655.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6v634O15E_gVPANW_shYFuaIhizxK-AuX-CwRKOhzcs8EKDDsdwBUD_-K3qfivBqE25YHH159xMQxNOWVIgB6wDnNgR9bd0955ox1UrystsRT1FztQ7tTX_iE6FExdsNpXAZMxZeqmZoEa0vtt9nqJ9pE21931hw3jNmFIjXd7-erlOSG51_LmpBxOQ/s320/20230809_160655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMUc8OGbcRQDVTwb1g7Adf5b2eRUl4Y9r3SdJ0Vqtbuj7NqYhi7jVtjIv4R13knpLQkbd5AB1K1XOkoMVq3iNqxbajK3cZPX_dGwpecWRWY6eXxgzlQD72hq47FVNBfo46DiabaSgrDb9tAChVaKxYC-VaoDtXBIKG2H5XPqxUQ2ui9XCXrhWh1l5oFM/s1209/20230809_160846.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOMUc8OGbcRQDVTwb1g7Adf5b2eRUl4Y9r3SdJ0Vqtbuj7NqYhi7jVtjIv4R13knpLQkbd5AB1K1XOkoMVq3iNqxbajK3cZPX_dGwpecWRWY6eXxgzlQD72hq47FVNBfo46DiabaSgrDb9tAChVaKxYC-VaoDtXBIKG2H5XPqxUQ2ui9XCXrhWh1l5oFM/s320/20230809_160846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5MBCVXPCW5RljM4ofXC7YaXcXeZ65mPm0kXv2eWuf85NlzFZIiJg9JBIflUW6xolbYk-ou0Lv5eGYuVfiEURW9esScOV__UOcolIHa5u9hDjNFc7GRjrkUmNb153uTuzsJvrYzSfPuX2a4fwW5jlLo7FHrD_0ejnlr5nDUcMgs4S60aXxZcs7bwgypw/s1209/20230809_160903.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX5MBCVXPCW5RljM4ofXC7YaXcXeZ65mPm0kXv2eWuf85NlzFZIiJg9JBIflUW6xolbYk-ou0Lv5eGYuVfiEURW9esScOV__UOcolIHa5u9hDjNFc7GRjrkUmNb153uTuzsJvrYzSfPuX2a4fwW5jlLo7FHrD_0ejnlr5nDUcMgs4S60aXxZcs7bwgypw/s320/20230809_160903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFEndeyYiDRuf4tIqRFCO2Nh5-UcK3nLO3dPzTOWpe-yGBT6Tov1yv91oVJFBvxo33QW7Egpew9J_1QZDNX1tGpQoxnKeObrOktpBYFKLEZcz7YE46Sr4nqRnAkjdZJwaA0P1Z9X1CdlV8UlTg4H3pO7AZe8s-iW61DsmhvmOqCCk7YvD2p6mUPvxom8/s1209/20230809_160946.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFEndeyYiDRuf4tIqRFCO2Nh5-UcK3nLO3dPzTOWpe-yGBT6Tov1yv91oVJFBvxo33QW7Egpew9J_1QZDNX1tGpQoxnKeObrOktpBYFKLEZcz7YE46Sr4nqRnAkjdZJwaA0P1Z9X1CdlV8UlTg4H3pO7AZe8s-iW61DsmhvmOqCCk7YvD2p6mUPvxom8/s320/20230809_160946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1-RVLn7qr0ZEOIt7q2VyWfNGWH5ckuI51Fd7IHlX2Mad6afVC_2SFEq67jdnP11541GRCmKlRZj1ExnY41GY9_H88L56T_LWP0mPrX68nDGnEeolol4VniYnRC4HLGJGcd5LZr1XHNWjj19S6vosmjc0AWHQFHw5b3ccDpZS8RIA5_BAAh-ZkyZe5H8/s1209/20230809_160957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1-RVLn7qr0ZEOIt7q2VyWfNGWH5ckuI51Fd7IHlX2Mad6afVC_2SFEq67jdnP11541GRCmKlRZj1ExnY41GY9_H88L56T_LWP0mPrX68nDGnEeolol4VniYnRC4HLGJGcd5LZr1XHNWjj19S6vosmjc0AWHQFHw5b3ccDpZS8RIA5_BAAh-ZkyZe5H8/s320/20230809_160957.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4FiiGoGJUaQ04tArFtDOBfq8uRt5c3bTAHKWnzH_qbMnIJ7HYFdAgEFMXKqY17pV_ojio8Xqds5HFLEJBbFws7lIOVcZ7XExAtZU7XwBrTqogrdEFGdTyTAibGckbWcFQ9UReBIPHUbAx-TMcS7DnwOSAFdesWtNGn_AWHngY5zbXfKgzFKx36UI7V0/s1209/20230809_161021.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4FiiGoGJUaQ04tArFtDOBfq8uRt5c3bTAHKWnzH_qbMnIJ7HYFdAgEFMXKqY17pV_ojio8Xqds5HFLEJBbFws7lIOVcZ7XExAtZU7XwBrTqogrdEFGdTyTAibGckbWcFQ9UReBIPHUbAx-TMcS7DnwOSAFdesWtNGn_AWHngY5zbXfKgzFKx36UI7V0/s320/20230809_161021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikVIp0k5gj-pMJJGcZPsatf0TaVIPRPkKhojQqCXStIqxbqHY4JAFhHkuSh_TQ7RR85i43fxissIzv_IO8SBuln5b4KXZJLbRlbayq76XUuv2ka-lAdN2XzuL1CiVE-Ne7qV9zDUoRnhemDJEKAv6GweAU81HnT1pGJdMxKLBE5eCaF5W2m-PnN6WF-ho/s1209/20230809_161023.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikVIp0k5gj-pMJJGcZPsatf0TaVIPRPkKhojQqCXStIqxbqHY4JAFhHkuSh_TQ7RR85i43fxissIzv_IO8SBuln5b4KXZJLbRlbayq76XUuv2ka-lAdN2XzuL1CiVE-Ne7qV9zDUoRnhemDJEKAv6GweAU81HnT1pGJdMxKLBE5eCaF5W2m-PnN6WF-ho/s320/20230809_161023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm0I-9YsSHTbtonlz7Ju_-bfZecPCz7WqRbWvE3576pCU5nGrm8vUBylDbxXT5P_vIfuF_w45Y9SfFZezXXUafklMfU439chqS10gaTZsiXb0iXMAxuCr7eRTZmm1qQOI9XWWhySxHkQ78PTqvKITpfr_lgNdH2ooKVuylN1Lr5LfmpkZgNBtK1dIvI8/s1209/20230809_162242.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm0I-9YsSHTbtonlz7Ju_-bfZecPCz7WqRbWvE3576pCU5nGrm8vUBylDbxXT5P_vIfuF_w45Y9SfFZezXXUafklMfU439chqS10gaTZsiXb0iXMAxuCr7eRTZmm1qQOI9XWWhySxHkQ78PTqvKITpfr_lgNdH2ooKVuylN1Lr5LfmpkZgNBtK1dIvI8/s320/20230809_162242.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per la spesa, ovviamente, ci rechiamo al mercato, che è vivvace, incasinato e colorato come quello di tutti gli altri paesi visti finora, e non dà l'idea di essere nè pericoloso nè poco sicuro. Ci muoviamo sicuri, in mezzo ai local, unici stranieri nell'arco, probabilmente, di decine di km. Ma non siamo additati come gringos! Insomma, è tutto meglio di quanto mi aspettassi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4-sRBYM87t0Annaua8DhqjOSW4VCpIGDPdE-fxfbRdkvX3_nXfLddHuB9TyaNR2VlL552K2_1rDSSV-iNzG7FV1shgG8UsDlRafQaHpvZCEWL1TKhSlqI1F1oxDV_yHDxehESIuB8qIBsSauucoDOc9aJxHF8Le37Y4pcwN_5UacS5Tgqwpl3nZLwd0/s1209/20230809_165248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4-sRBYM87t0Annaua8DhqjOSW4VCpIGDPdE-fxfbRdkvX3_nXfLddHuB9TyaNR2VlL552K2_1rDSSV-iNzG7FV1shgG8UsDlRafQaHpvZCEWL1TKhSlqI1F1oxDV_yHDxehESIuB8qIBsSauucoDOc9aJxHF8Le37Y4pcwN_5UacS5Tgqwpl3nZLwd0/s320/20230809_165248.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdLDFjXS5NilGoKZTY8yfm9XUyPxs-tDZEUBsbaAnJ42-CPFeomY-B0mtBHTch2-DlKJI2te4SURAGnvOgPC7tuHYw9yWruaZdr4otbo4aSVIxu9BlwGoHVSVxIQJAwe5axRBnf-a2XlAw-KHDpY1TarSe7wYKJ07mxpqhDjimzzcJ5ASEZgxBhdkYqA/s1209/20230809_165642.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdLDFjXS5NilGoKZTY8yfm9XUyPxs-tDZEUBsbaAnJ42-CPFeomY-B0mtBHTch2-DlKJI2te4SURAGnvOgPC7tuHYw9yWruaZdr4otbo4aSVIxu9BlwGoHVSVxIQJAwe5axRBnf-a2XlAw-KHDpY1TarSe7wYKJ07mxpqhDjimzzcJ5ASEZgxBhdkYqA/s320/20230809_165642.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-vX4WLgwRdm5EAmm37QhzJKxU3ZINvSGUcYre9ivqDyxJQFHgdZXrm-rhmg4JXjXWvAsacbyrZCVPFaiwOI6kwRxpyXJ6d7m2pu2NkwLfAR7wgmICRw5V-NP4wBp7VKqe0e9YVXJzV4j2I2VGZIwcXGrIekvsJV_2tW1cI-JS8UsMki8QkUJpG-Z22EM/s1209/20230809_165645.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-vX4WLgwRdm5EAmm37QhzJKxU3ZINvSGUcYre9ivqDyxJQFHgdZXrm-rhmg4JXjXWvAsacbyrZCVPFaiwOI6kwRxpyXJ6d7m2pu2NkwLfAR7wgmICRw5V-NP4wBp7VKqe0e9YVXJzV4j2I2VGZIwcXGrIekvsJV_2tW1cI-JS8UsMki8QkUJpG-Z22EM/s320/20230809_165645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqG05Ivred-vU8KsDoR53QHSwCTGdarrJRQ-vI6EkJdDLqR60iorY6Ca6ye2KtnsJ7xLRVPwZVYtbh35D-rGcAGXi04oROeWNcAgEBdDUFclzruRhF429ltoCKMCn7yBsQgFI8i92Od9EsP71HPjiSsB2FpUTMCaoocNedL6oFI847qvj6MlkgGwC7UsM/s1209/20230809_165835.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqG05Ivred-vU8KsDoR53QHSwCTGdarrJRQ-vI6EkJdDLqR60iorY6Ca6ye2KtnsJ7xLRVPwZVYtbh35D-rGcAGXi04oROeWNcAgEBdDUFclzruRhF429ltoCKMCn7yBsQgFI8i92Od9EsP71HPjiSsB2FpUTMCaoocNedL6oFI847qvj6MlkgGwC7UsM/s320/20230809_165835.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4ncDiEtNU5ryQE4V2TfbZqcehxAt2YFkN0MVuWxyMHwMTjPq7lLpEGutc3hVVzz9mAg-kpQqMM2FXeNEWFL4yiJKXquiu4JwZ_BEkGg7NJxrWqZNAYAbR293lpHVxWoGI-EWXkEe2kpBko2BV_HrSmsPCltZV5IpkMY5pyfuLrbkkDyfXjIZPSS-WLg/s1209/20230809_165939.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ4ncDiEtNU5ryQE4V2TfbZqcehxAt2YFkN0MVuWxyMHwMTjPq7lLpEGutc3hVVzz9mAg-kpQqMM2FXeNEWFL4yiJKXquiu4JwZ_BEkGg7NJxrWqZNAYAbR293lpHVxWoGI-EWXkEe2kpBko2BV_HrSmsPCltZV5IpkMY5pyfuLrbkkDyfXjIZPSS-WLg/s320/20230809_165939.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In ogni caso non vogliamo tentar la sorte e, nel tardo pomeriggio, saliamo in camera e qui rimarremo fino a domattina. Dalla finestra vediamo scorrere la vita del paese nella piazza, vediamo le famiglie, le coppie, chi torna dal lavoro e chi fa shopping. Tutta gente normale, che fa cose normali. Come possono tollerare di vivere in un luogo dove la criminalità è così diffusa?</div><div>Certo, parlo io da italiana...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwAdAiPU9TyT7jOeGFWqTGHHhmYoWqjCm7jUOYA1NDAI6E5vaq7WYGD96Nis-1-2kSuz_aBE1nqlI30eA49WHwn60r0CS5TeBd22sRrDwZXRuZJworRBNBwELiTjcAEvrn_-7FKRpnarh_dYav-sSRS6T48OGZsDZ2o9XiGcoEG9mbvtr1iRSVbI-Pbw/s1209/20230809_190553.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwAdAiPU9TyT7jOeGFWqTGHHhmYoWqjCm7jUOYA1NDAI6E5vaq7WYGD96Nis-1-2kSuz_aBE1nqlI30eA49WHwn60r0CS5TeBd22sRrDwZXRuZJworRBNBwELiTjcAEvrn_-7FKRpnarh_dYav-sSRS6T48OGZsDZ2o9XiGcoEG9mbvtr1iRSVbI-Pbw/s320/20230809_190553.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGaR_3mRo6Pk51pLstOflPPjjILBWXg_hTC-QSY0TidZsLXg3m8hqFQ7JrvZZkVtp2jCVCXTSWI0h99nlCSMFz53vGudIxNf_TXPzrP1zmpI7qIYOTLmQ5rFuWVYNzQ7H_MMGSEoChBMn5g5UnaNHzvopYYhCY00Pa8vJnc0H2vm6AAqU_ZDfZ4XBzPcw/s1209/20230809_190603.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGaR_3mRo6Pk51pLstOflPPjjILBWXg_hTC-QSY0TidZsLXg3m8hqFQ7JrvZZkVtp2jCVCXTSWI0h99nlCSMFz53vGudIxNf_TXPzrP1zmpI7qIYOTLmQ5rFuWVYNzQ7H_MMGSEoChBMn5g5UnaNHzvopYYhCY00Pa8vJnc0H2vm6AAqU_ZDfZ4XBzPcw/s320/20230809_190603.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Prima di cena Gigi scopre di avere una gomma a terra. Colpevoli sono i fili di metallo che escono dai pezzi di copertoni esplosi di cui le strade son piene. Ne sappiamo qualcosa dopo le 13 forature statunitensi! Poco male, siamo provetti meccanici (oh!) e rimediamo al volo. Poi ci pappiamo le gorditas regalate, già sapendo che vengono dalle sucide bancarelle di strada e ci regaleranno una notte sul cesso. Ma quanto sono buone!<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-PSndK_qgEotLprWlt8fGmOTcsvxwFHUEQISLQ6APCWBz9O-HuVzk7aQW711acjiTm4d89A7ziUy3er2GFe8v-Z4RIWSSM4tEHCLy6qg0aZr8ufnb47edYTDGtRNPSS4w0CDaSsI1jAZd8Fi-LREE4hmhCOKyU5fFPjxSZ29aVVMh-Tee9ustgsdpkDc/s1209/20230809_191943.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-PSndK_qgEotLprWlt8fGmOTcsvxwFHUEQISLQ6APCWBz9O-HuVzk7aQW711acjiTm4d89A7ziUy3er2GFe8v-Z4RIWSSM4tEHCLy6qg0aZr8ufnb47edYTDGtRNPSS4w0CDaSsI1jAZd8Fi-LREE4hmhCOKyU5fFPjxSZ29aVVMh-Tee9ustgsdpkDc/s320/20230809_191943.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo cena Gigi contatta un po' di ciclisti a La Paz, chiedendo loro se hanno scatoloni per imballare le bici per l'aereo. Qualcuno risponde già in modo affermativo. Io, invece, mi occupo di capire come si prenota il biglietto del traghetto che ci porterà da Mazatlan, sul continente, a La Paz, in Baja California. Tutti i tasselli del mosaico trovano la loro collocazione giorno dopo giorno, e il viaggio continua.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrtxmEbTMZ7qBmMI75DWsNVDGKkNVOkH6V3JBTseZphDsXRE8sdAxmVZixmVc4MFHCDQmiNti4xl5kK-0PoAMOsX3YQtS88XocJe0E_H0G-oELvLk4qYwSY155XeeKNJNhmqybITpEwOq9p5m0RgGft4X8uMjq9Ckc6KblJ_nL25sEqbNJZLkf0sH7_c/s1209/20230809_193019.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrtxmEbTMZ7qBmMI75DWsNVDGKkNVOkH6V3JBTseZphDsXRE8sdAxmVZixmVc4MFHCDQmiNti4xl5kK-0PoAMOsX3YQtS88XocJe0E_H0G-oELvLk4qYwSY155XeeKNJNhmqybITpEwOq9p5m0RgGft4X8uMjq9Ckc6KblJ_nL25sEqbNJZLkf0sH7_c/s320/20230809_193019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgyGIJgSmZ8qSg7NbUMOlp79RMHyiNvtARSoUGoBILNs1yUKD7W0mSEzFzW1opkadYWjJtbZkejFk0z5qWywXHxFLMhKiLWjJYhLwOhG2yC3BJC849jjvskftcHiTUeQBi1JOGQZAQLUSU_W_WI7uyTP6YbNmbPQC3S8nGLqXHgFe69-1vrSL4015l0I/s1209/20230809_193025.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgyGIJgSmZ8qSg7NbUMOlp79RMHyiNvtARSoUGoBILNs1yUKD7W0mSEzFzW1opkadYWjJtbZkejFk0z5qWywXHxFLMhKiLWjJYhLwOhG2yC3BJC849jjvskftcHiTUeQBi1JOGQZAQLUSU_W_WI7uyTP6YbNmbPQC3S8nGLqXHgFe69-1vrSL4015l0I/s320/20230809_193025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>10/8</div><div>Salamanca-Penjamo</div><div>73km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Allo scoccare del cinquantesimo giorno di viaggio, registro con mestizia un infausto evento: Montezuma ha colpito anche me, con la sua maledizione. Colpa delle nefaste gorditas? Colpa della frutta del mercato? Colpa della colazione, che tanto mi è piaciuta, ed era bella oltrechè buona? Non lo sapremo mai. Quel che sappiamo è che oggi ho passato la mattinata con dei crampi allo stomaco devastanti, da non riuscire a respirare, e, dopo 50km in sella in queste condizioni, ruttando e scoreggiando come un cinghiale ferito, ho iniziato a vomitare, prima copiosamente in una stazione di servizio piena di giovani famiglie dirette a Tijuana e poi oltreconfine, poi direttamente dalla bici, fino all'arrivo (scusate i francesismi, ma la carne non è pane, come vogliono certe religioni, e il corpo, quando è malato, non fa schifo ma compassione). Si può vomitare mentre si pedala? Altrochè, e io sono una professionista, soprattutto durante i viaggi, quando, per una via o per l'altra, cado malata. E' operazione che poi richiede un accurato lavaggio delle gambe e dei pantaloncini, ma tant'è. Gli ultimi 4km sono stati un inferno, anche perchè mi è salita la febbre e pedalavo con i brividi sotto al sole cocente degli altipiani centrali del Messico, sbandando e vomitando, ansando e annegando nei miei fluidi. A un km e mezzo dalla meta (anticipata) ho pensato fosse necessario chiamare il 911, numero di emergenza messicano. Poi no, sono riuscita ad arrivare all'hotel sulle mie tremolanti e doloranti gambette, spinta più dal desiderio di riposare tranquilla che non dalla forza di procedere.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijF1Kj3JDKfrQKJOW8Ezfpb_cCr2eypJTL8q9PBWsQ_UpeQb1WhUXXq4L24AJ2tHFDOGHxaMwZaO41uDxV5ij9I9IXkLit-fowrzWqcFtDdHHpHm4m03Ena1yRaNx4XxIQJAqoCW1RqO6HLw3yeAJnesPsPxDAvdrrn-k5ZYoR9Kzag0ov3aKGUcrCfUc/s1209/20230810_074613.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijF1Kj3JDKfrQKJOW8Ezfpb_cCr2eypJTL8q9PBWsQ_UpeQb1WhUXXq4L24AJ2tHFDOGHxaMwZaO41uDxV5ij9I9IXkLit-fowrzWqcFtDdHHpHm4m03Ena1yRaNx4XxIQJAqoCW1RqO6HLw3yeAJnesPsPxDAvdrrn-k5ZYoR9Kzag0ov3aKGUcrCfUc/s320/20230810_074613.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la colazione. Colpa sua?</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Stamattina sembrava andasse tutto bene, a parte la disperazione di Gigi di aver forato anche la gomma posteriore (con cinema di cambio camera d'aria e borse a giro nella hall). Arriverà a tre forature entro sera, in meno di 24 ore. Forse è il momento di cambiare copertoni? Ci accompagnano da tre anni e hanno attraversato Islanda, Perù e ora Messico. Hanno fatto il loro lavoro.<div><br /></div><div>Usciamo in una Salamanca ancora un po' addormentata, baciata dai primi raggi di un sole tiepido. Non mancano persino le piste ciclabili! Con una sosta benzinaio per gonfiar bene le gomme di Gigi, siamo pronti per partire davvero. Pedaliamo spediti verso Irapuato, seconda città del Guanajuato con i suoi 450.000 abitanti.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWetYCR0HdeGOBMKwTDNCrPEpumKiu_OIOu6QOyH8J4upTsv_15_KZM2DmelYGofueW9Hstd9VkxC6QDYWjk6oaefArLATBVfgFFbP4ojxTVijgF1XY4XHPUfxgoyeMnWtJW8g8la3mK5knGJzuOs1qAe0Jk0jok6FoxuC_KHgPFwul3cvMqEm6gceug4/s1209/20230810_085523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWetYCR0HdeGOBMKwTDNCrPEpumKiu_OIOu6QOyH8J4upTsv_15_KZM2DmelYGofueW9Hstd9VkxC6QDYWjk6oaefArLATBVfgFFbP4ojxTVijgF1XY4XHPUfxgoyeMnWtJW8g8la3mK5knGJzuOs1qAe0Jk0jok6FoxuC_KHgPFwul3cvMqEm6gceug4/s320/20230810_085523.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Anche qui le periferie sono piuttosto agevoli da attraversare, grazie ai grandi viali semideserti e alle piste ciclabili, un po' strette a onor del vero, ma chi siamo noi per lamentarci. In fondo siamo gli unici ad utilizzarle.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Irapuato, nota per fiori, frutta, soprattutto fragole, allevamento di suini e bovini, ha, negli ultimi anni, sviluppato una fiorente industria anche in altri settori, dalla chimica alla manifattura. Il luogo era abitato dai fieri Chichimeca, seminomadi, e poi da Purépecha, che si stanziarono come agricoltori e artigiano e diedero il nome alla città (Xiriquitzio, luogo dove ci sono case). L'impero Purépecha, però, cadde in fretta, lasciando di nuovo terre ai Chichimeca. Poi vennero gli spagnoli, e in massa, quando si scoprì quanto argento custodiva nelle sue viscere questa regione. La città in sè fu fondata su decreto di Carlo V in persona, uno dei miei personaggi storici preferiti, grandioso e tragico. Sul suo regno non tramontava mai il sole, diceva, perchè possedeva la Spagna con tutte le colonie, sia nelle Americhe sia in Asia (ma pure il sud Italia, eh), i Paesi Bassi con relative colonie, i territori dell'Impero asburgico... A lui si inchinavano i conquistadores più celebri, da Pizarro a Cortés. Ma durante il suo regno, in Europa, scoppiò la Riforma luterana, con guerre e rivolte annesse, e fu lui a gestirla. E sempre lui affrontò i turchi di Solimano il Magnifico, in espansione verso occidente, senza contare la guerra con la Francia, storica nemica. Questa fu la sua vita, fin da adolescente e fino a cinquant'anni. Poi si ritirò in convento, dopo aver abdicato e diviso i possedimenti tra figlio e fratello. E ci credo!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il suo nome, comunque, compare ancora sullo stemma di Irapuato.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Altri fatti sulla città? Il 18 agosto 1973 la parete di una diga cedette, e Irapuato fu investita da un muro d'acqua di oltre 2 metri che la inondò. 300 morti, distruzione, persone lasciate sui tetti o sugli alberi per giorni prima di essere soccorse. Ancora, nell'estate del 2020 ci sono state diverse stragi con armi da fuoco in due centri di riabilitazione per tossicodipendenti. Insomma, la cronaca qui è tutta una festa. Quando passiamo noi c'è più polizia che gente per strada. Gli agenti, armati e con elmetto, passamontagna e giubbotto antiproiettile, pattugliano le strade a bordo di jeep con il cassone aperto, dotato di mitragliatrice.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVbUYXwaY0YF5funj-qpAZKy36KlqfRgRrFlisYnwMOnAfqhC5NSw7DvVuU26OwPUG1hnPO2f4eXnAvcLKWLoTT4Fdyhq3lbuIgxgnR02ffIXwzFbAe_xAfCLRtZWiwiN8XNhjsBERjKu-SVyGt_qzs1KyOilBwK79Lc7NjTyFLwT2K10cghZMG_XRpg/s1209/20230810_095238.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVbUYXwaY0YF5funj-qpAZKy36KlqfRgRrFlisYnwMOnAfqhC5NSw7DvVuU26OwPUG1hnPO2f4eXnAvcLKWLoTT4Fdyhq3lbuIgxgnR02ffIXwzFbAe_xAfCLRtZWiwiN8XNhjsBERjKu-SVyGt_qzs1KyOilBwK79Lc7NjTyFLwT2K10cghZMG_XRpg/s320/20230810_095238.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKFrnrJZdfH2hLab6GWKnaAYMI5GpwhDewpgBCi6L0r-M_kJXsLx6A5V9Y2lKab3nSIAE0hSAFRsXX8QhjN8yr9QwzS76Wd80k4kIWkKJTyXQxrkhmfEUHLiFXUsL0JGWZatN_ZTw167-kWZ9hQ8c3G65-X31N8UDIzUvojDdYDqFoLEI4zlGZqcyIe4/s1209/20230810_100238.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKFrnrJZdfH2hLab6GWKnaAYMI5GpwhDewpgBCi6L0r-M_kJXsLx6A5V9Y2lKab3nSIAE0hSAFRsXX8QhjN8yr9QwzS76Wd80k4kIWkKJTyXQxrkhmfEUHLiFXUsL0JGWZatN_ZTw167-kWZ9hQ8c3G65-X31N8UDIzUvojDdYDqFoLEI4zlGZqcyIe4/s320/20230810_100238.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Ns3N8Uq8v-9dwtGelgybdzJ_QOziJSe8xWVfG_Jx6-PSqvXyGXV3hXmdWpNcbYsMig5MsrK_wshIMti0KyYkYNwuvC9Rz_pb6_cbfUSF4MnV9-B2iABcWFy5dhkU4OHPbs1olunMvitNfz_9K60cLapaDuOQkeI-57eBlk4wrwtigpk_FbenBekMqp8/s1209/20230810_100332.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Ns3N8Uq8v-9dwtGelgybdzJ_QOziJSe8xWVfG_Jx6-PSqvXyGXV3hXmdWpNcbYsMig5MsrK_wshIMti0KyYkYNwuvC9Rz_pb6_cbfUSF4MnV9-B2iABcWFy5dhkU4OHPbs1olunMvitNfz_9K60cLapaDuOQkeI-57eBlk4wrwtigpk_FbenBekMqp8/s320/20230810_100332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOqbFvg0wZysKgr1fDqax-HtsIOInDi46caFqpzl6xZD-qtpb-o_z4u769OiJpM2uoaR3qOAoqeYBZ8g5gA3sPNctDKldAqFr20Y9z9JTNCP6HBGdBucy8CbKdOvcOmpgy7i93DDIBIjIVK4GC5BKVW_AI8PaRogPBqmrSoRtsbs95H2Fzb-yIzldiAKw/s1209/20230810_101016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOqbFvg0wZysKgr1fDqax-HtsIOInDi46caFqpzl6xZD-qtpb-o_z4u769OiJpM2uoaR3qOAoqeYBZ8g5gA3sPNctDKldAqFr20Y9z9JTNCP6HBGdBucy8CbKdOvcOmpgy7i93DDIBIjIVK4GC5BKVW_AI8PaRogPBqmrSoRtsbs95H2Fzb-yIzldiAKw/s320/20230810_101016.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciamo dalla città senza grandi difficoltà e ci troviamo di nuovo su uno stradone che buca la campagna. Oltre al mais e all'agave, coltivati in campi enormi e verdissimi, si vedono distese di campi di fragole, con annessi baracchini che le vendono "con crema" e serre di pomodori verdi e peperoncini. A bordo strada transitano anche piccole mandrie o greggi, accompagnate dal pastore (spesso ben armato di machete)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WsN2V6LPVhYzlPLekDPTwv1QVcSislAzxByShaZ6omCLm7DtXXlCXmWw21a5lWZDttPXjK0Ebk2V9CYun6CMrbIiz0_goHTmKheegqYqY2f5z4Vtlorx2RjtJ5eKXDDD5TPKdgPFNtBj1nUhEym_3jOrkchh12CGeh40nXimXEzmHSLnrNDND46HwlA/s1209/20230810_105503.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WsN2V6LPVhYzlPLekDPTwv1QVcSislAzxByShaZ6omCLm7DtXXlCXmWw21a5lWZDttPXjK0Ebk2V9CYun6CMrbIiz0_goHTmKheegqYqY2f5z4Vtlorx2RjtJ5eKXDDD5TPKdgPFNtBj1nUhEym_3jOrkchh12CGeh40nXimXEzmHSLnrNDND46HwlA/s320/20230810_105503.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4jdHZw5ClFMboQLG-hwzExX8df7eoTOpkCUL7rGkfdTN5H83_4L3TOr0NX66vdcE0acKpte527jXC2Azuw8sq_1v2JcTp4F1FHNdlwgZKSiVUHl1Zhf0StA9cJesbGVrj9_lpuay5p656_75gwbZRTJEox7x_SneKX962EdrbqT4YthkAQsboxtSXJw/s1209/20230810_105629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4jdHZw5ClFMboQLG-hwzExX8df7eoTOpkCUL7rGkfdTN5H83_4L3TOr0NX66vdcE0acKpte527jXC2Azuw8sq_1v2JcTp4F1FHNdlwgZKSiVUHl1Zhf0StA9cJesbGVrj9_lpuay5p656_75gwbZRTJEox7x_SneKX962EdrbqT4YthkAQsboxtSXJw/s320/20230810_105629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUjST7CxeU8uix0EOrBwAw2x2K00w1e_REHNRiuAE25v5SvLpK_d3AemDzKBhtn_mwkwGghtWrwercRGfANK_RchNc7qL4ImCpmeZjMn2wt2Hk64AuHtTkQQKh-0-dX4PInFpc_XKQCYXvN4zDklUIAHDoR86To4J6L3JLef9569jZmMihduTiZcffTzU/s1209/20230810_113748.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUjST7CxeU8uix0EOrBwAw2x2K00w1e_REHNRiuAE25v5SvLpK_d3AemDzKBhtn_mwkwGghtWrwercRGfANK_RchNc7qL4ImCpmeZjMn2wt2Hk64AuHtTkQQKh-0-dX4PInFpc_XKQCYXvN4zDklUIAHDoR86To4J6L3JLef9569jZmMihduTiZcffTzU/s320/20230810_113748.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Qipqma9PLYcuCIeO9d1GHRTW36-X6Q0w6zBAfjUeUspR1jTrVdvJSS4Hnu6uYrkdvhGURP1myYtYzy6cV2VtHoRLUqB7LsfHJXE7J1BxdBL6zMuY-49lwHL235pin4YmgVtnSQP1OrX1NIwmJDFJWlsZW0zjqaJ2mTPri9HuSspbwOb56nJHpaGzQ3E/s1209/20230810_113757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Qipqma9PLYcuCIeO9d1GHRTW36-X6Q0w6zBAfjUeUspR1jTrVdvJSS4Hnu6uYrkdvhGURP1myYtYzy6cV2VtHoRLUqB7LsfHJXE7J1BxdBL6zMuY-49lwHL235pin4YmgVtnSQP1OrX1NIwmJDFJWlsZW0zjqaJ2mTPri9HuSspbwOb56nJHpaGzQ3E/s320/20230810_113757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ZKzYzA8LW-zY_FQOaPL-khRq4hjTzknkgA51fnG8jCVnUl0JHvbVPiY2USxEayd719H2PZt4Jo6Bfq6C-4lQ9xIf3QLnyYzFWmDDBlsVqeMUPe6Qjg5W9cTzrNB8AqbLzEOy1Rxu95hZDNFDxNYAaWB4ICTv7Btj186VIbhVWc0Lu7D4DrEcjXyXTf8/s1209/20230810_114928.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ZKzYzA8LW-zY_FQOaPL-khRq4hjTzknkgA51fnG8jCVnUl0JHvbVPiY2USxEayd719H2PZt4Jo6Bfq6C-4lQ9xIf3QLnyYzFWmDDBlsVqeMUPe6Qjg5W9cTzrNB8AqbLzEOy1Rxu95hZDNFDxNYAaWB4ICTv7Btj186VIbhVWc0Lu7D4DrEcjXyXTf8/s320/20230810_114928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Superiamo Abasolo, il cui nome è quello di un patriota, ma in Purépecha si chiamava "luogo delle puzzole" (che sono, in spagnolo, zorrillos, volpine) e facciamo sosta in un paradero con ristorante, minisuper e bagno. Oltre a noi arrivano pullman carichi di famiglie un po' straccionente dirette a Tijuana e poi negli States, con questi viaggi mortali di decine di ore attraverso il paese. Sono per lo più giovani madri e padri con bimbi piccoli al seguito. Arrivano, vanno in bagno, mangiano qualcosa. I bambini più grandicello giocano con me macchinine, a terra, facendole correre sulle linee delle piastrelle. Non hanno idea di quale impresa stiano affrontando.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Qui ha inizio il mio tracollo. Sto male, poi peggio. Vado in bagno a più riprese, ed ogni volta vomito copiosamente, anche quando poi tolgono l'acqua dai lavandini e tocca pulirsi solo con qualche tovagliolino. Mi fa male ogni cosa, mi sento svenire, la pancia è in fiamme, non respiro. Dopo aver vomitato l'anima a più riprese, e aver fatto quattro chiacchiere con il proprietario del posto, che sta chiudendo ed è in imbarazzo a cacciarci via, viene il momento di ripartire. Sperando di potermi rifocillare un pochino, più tardi, compro una cocada, un dolce buonissimo fatto con pasta di cocco e cannella. Purtroppo rimarrà intatto a lungo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscZDp0wcWvPdIvrDExGsVRME7kTa8yqZ4vmv9njsk992TNuAyzCmRPYMrrY6uwRjg7dWeFh0vugIFyzBDT1Bwa6RMOG1kSI2sJjNtje0OQR1L-3IwxUwpyvIOjR4baAJGlCrVV4yWby1Ckw3JWyPSeymVJpzOE-GyQdOXODnsSmfyMxsI5rTMJ6ou7OY/s1209/20230810_131051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscZDp0wcWvPdIvrDExGsVRME7kTa8yqZ4vmv9njsk992TNuAyzCmRPYMrrY6uwRjg7dWeFh0vugIFyzBDT1Bwa6RMOG1kSI2sJjNtje0OQR1L-3IwxUwpyvIOjR4baAJGlCrVV4yWby1Ckw3JWyPSeymVJpzOE-GyQdOXODnsSmfyMxsI5rTMJ6ou7OY/s320/20230810_131051.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I 20km che pedaliamo dopo la sosta sono abbastanza infernali. Oltre ai crampi alla pancia, sento che mi è salita la febbre. Mi fanno male muscoli, tendini, articolazioni. Il collo è completamente bloccato e persino le reni bruciano. In più non smetto di vomitare, anche l'acqua. Mi disidrato, con i brividi, mentre cerco di proseguire sotto al sole cocente.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtHbeV-L0jcOGVt-7pEQ7ZhY3SEUJCIymJoDXWflWNtkhiQFjKHjURhCk87jxWJVXm4SDvJfpZyD2U39dV-qZk1p2O-k5DuyF3FR7347A2e7xu_KFumC8P7QOZvBRQ7HeAjt17k-mHUX8W5L0FXvEINTgukJQskWkmINkZaWJp0figMo5wfxp2upuNcw/s1209/20230810_134417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtHbeV-L0jcOGVt-7pEQ7ZhY3SEUJCIymJoDXWflWNtkhiQFjKHjURhCk87jxWJVXm4SDvJfpZyD2U39dV-qZk1p2O-k5DuyF3FR7347A2e7xu_KFumC8P7QOZvBRQ7HeAjt17k-mHUX8W5L0FXvEINTgukJQskWkmINkZaWJp0figMo5wfxp2upuNcw/s320/20230810_134417.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FCj2MUBN-ktEMnK5D_SswFFqjlilqHyEgQqux-IbMKzOoF2PDLaG8KDDY2StFkSnoAmjwvYE6P39kn8GnhlYyxAkKR1ozYX9iOTUR5yc0B_bbTpq7KFIS4T0Sxt3EnuW8y0s-q3C9D5FfZZEpkWTTLZpFFDr_xqdxGrzVVALXWCY3Yt3G3oyIVzzEDw/s1209/20230810_135942.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FCj2MUBN-ktEMnK5D_SswFFqjlilqHyEgQqux-IbMKzOoF2PDLaG8KDDY2StFkSnoAmjwvYE6P39kn8GnhlYyxAkKR1ozYX9iOTUR5yc0B_bbTpq7KFIS4T0Sxt3EnuW8y0s-q3C9D5FfZZEpkWTTLZpFFDr_xqdxGrzVVALXWCY3Yt3G3oyIVzzEDw/s320/20230810_135942.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriviamo alla prima città, Penjamo. Ci fermiamo in periferia perchè io non riesco a proseguire. Al primo negozietto mi butto sul marciapiede, raggomitolata come un pangolino dolente. Chiedo a Gigi di comprarmi dell'acqua, ne bevo un litro alla goccia. Nel frattempo cerco di capire se ci siano alberghi in zona e sì, ce ne è uno a 4km. Mentre penso a quanto immensa possa risultare questa minima distanza, ora, due ragazzi che avevano parcheggiato lì vicino per far spesa ci offrono due dolcetti di pasta di arachidi. "Proteins, just in case". Li ringrazio con un filo di voce. Ora tocca rimettersi in moto e cercare di raggiungere l'hotel.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnIlbYuHOrJxcoP7cUtLz-AZ6rXqnDqiLKRZC_E6-QTXh8nuufrdPkRgs9AXptIxQ1e2LI_iKvlbCFLFRhQrJo6UCgp38FoGOe6Bz4MMjsf1T-7CdjvFl9mTuM-bbu2_iJfvmTlqbbAvg2GbZdM3tUb7ZNnrTOJMAWrheNfHGqUUFoJq2UG3BnQiFz7b0/s1209/20230810_140529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnIlbYuHOrJxcoP7cUtLz-AZ6rXqnDqiLKRZC_E6-QTXh8nuufrdPkRgs9AXptIxQ1e2LI_iKvlbCFLFRhQrJo6UCgp38FoGOe6Bz4MMjsf1T-7CdjvFl9mTuM-bbu2_iJfvmTlqbbAvg2GbZdM3tUb7ZNnrTOJMAWrheNfHGqUUFoJq2UG3BnQiFz7b0/s320/20230810_140529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXjJQ6ms-v6VJf4nq7V9fZp-ZS_23UibaoV4Zqb67QxI1LfG3HGLCbgd23XfgAiW5sXlPgY7ayeRJpH28-Huw68DHena0alXBlbXkF1Ya2P2P1iYLILFj4feSdMSCa34dge_G5l2LAHY2LZ9vVKESIdu-bJD8Xj83WVI0FOZ-UVh-nv99gVHaolfqM4U/s1209/20230810_145122.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXjJQ6ms-v6VJf4nq7V9fZp-ZS_23UibaoV4Zqb67QxI1LfG3HGLCbgd23XfgAiW5sXlPgY7ayeRJpH28-Huw68DHena0alXBlbXkF1Ya2P2P1iYLILFj4feSdMSCa34dge_G5l2LAHY2LZ9vVKESIdu-bJD8Xj83WVI0FOZ-UVh-nv99gVHaolfqM4U/s320/20230810_145122.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quei 4km sono un'agonia. Un po' pedalo, un po' cammino, un po' mi fermo a vomitare, in preda ai crampi. A tratti penso di dovermi stendere e chiamare l'ambulanza. Gigi intanto è nel panico e farnetica cose tipo: appena arriviamo vai dal medico/ in ospedale (ma quale medico? Quale ospedale?) e già fa pronostici su quanti giorni di viaggio perderemo, mettendomi addosso ulteriore ansia. Ricordo poco di quei momenti, se non la fatica e il malessere, ma son certa di aver detto, qualcosa come: "Voglio andare, arrivare, non parlare inutile", con l'aggettivo usato come avverbio che è segno di quasi morte. Alla fine anche quei 4km passano sotto alle ruote, e all'hotel, che è pure molto bello, arriviamo senza sirene nè relativo canto. Io vomito dell'altro, poi mi addormento di sasso sul letto, ancora vestita da bici, coperta con l'asciugamano. Inutile dire che il pomeriggio e la sera li trascorro in bagno, in un continuo, estenuante, pellegrinaggio dal letto al cesso. Provo a cenare con dei crackers, ma nulla rimane dove deve. Accompagno Gigi a far spesa, apprezzando la golden hour della periferia di Penjamo, e gli do una mano a cambiare la terza camera d'aria in meno di 24 ore. Ormai sono un'esperta riparatrice, metto toppe con precisione chirurgica.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4T1zdLjCvfXmwd903g6FcGcxWMyB-0SrmDHBQQSLDXjRFA2aMfLfK4Ptq0o_MPyTRxwXN_L7IBmuQdWZqzzkeZasGJ-vFRnZe1Ca1Xcb7hRcCZ1Q3Ybo2oNvx-gehpx-BJKPmo9xn-bbyRyCgXi7RfkNCE-U092-9Eg3fKkL-9paEobQlNgKZtaULfts/s1209/20230810_182401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4T1zdLjCvfXmwd903g6FcGcxWMyB-0SrmDHBQQSLDXjRFA2aMfLfK4Ptq0o_MPyTRxwXN_L7IBmuQdWZqzzkeZasGJ-vFRnZe1Ca1Xcb7hRcCZ1Q3Ybo2oNvx-gehpx-BJKPmo9xn-bbyRyCgXi7RfkNCE-U092-9Eg3fKkL-9paEobQlNgKZtaULfts/s320/20230810_182401.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6c1g4uWOqU6xLUZivJa_havZcugqb2M7CQQM-YVCta9foa982jen7Abufb5qro5l40v1AsMW_QiNwp_9qsMwF-_QTXGh9YCIQxFOe-6-o4kBhLy5h2Qr3eNK4D1JvzuQTvxTBzhxonZ5G4bGq3n63oGHXToZaAO6EiJvlVuTQI9UL0ulGlev2II2aTY/s1209/20230810_184354.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6c1g4uWOqU6xLUZivJa_havZcugqb2M7CQQM-YVCta9foa982jen7Abufb5qro5l40v1AsMW_QiNwp_9qsMwF-_QTXGh9YCIQxFOe-6-o4kBhLy5h2Qr3eNK4D1JvzuQTvxTBzhxonZ5G4bGq3n63oGHXToZaAO6EiJvlVuTQI9UL0ulGlev2II2aTY/s320/20230810_184354.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgRRaJdaYwW7a6cBUyDdqXe3g4s1OnO0Qw2PRGseyjkmLqSIma8K8ftDrz0tx2SJoq81cVVnOmWgr3T8RlNjcKVZPOfm_N4wctrOkJCXmqaFwZEuA0eZDtx4y5HcD88-T9wm16bxh_F8x-9e2ShGn1EwJp-MnSyrOAlKFvL2J1Bvpmx8KmNqnPqDVdIE/s1209/20230810_184539.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgRRaJdaYwW7a6cBUyDdqXe3g4s1OnO0Qw2PRGseyjkmLqSIma8K8ftDrz0tx2SJoq81cVVnOmWgr3T8RlNjcKVZPOfm_N4wctrOkJCXmqaFwZEuA0eZDtx4y5HcD88-T9wm16bxh_F8x-9e2ShGn1EwJp-MnSyrOAlKFvL2J1Bvpmx8KmNqnPqDVdIE/s320/20230810_184539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioPL4cPbOpk06nf_ilxk0pgRh9zhz78wWLn_90n-3X0jUEubQBKjV29hHoGW6q8GVfp63abqNNar6EuxqlnEL4Gjp-7ahplIvyuE9oKfNt740jAa-wwhffYWL5YZ7cp0PDiieucDcJt0eJmD06jmbPruYFiIc5zGwLiu10eyfggHgB_bI58bppsmWVgdc/s1209/20230810_184744.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioPL4cPbOpk06nf_ilxk0pgRh9zhz78wWLn_90n-3X0jUEubQBKjV29hHoGW6q8GVfp63abqNNar6EuxqlnEL4Gjp-7ahplIvyuE9oKfNt740jAa-wwhffYWL5YZ7cp0PDiieucDcJt0eJmD06jmbPruYFiIc5zGwLiu10eyfggHgB_bI58bppsmWVgdc/s320/20230810_184744.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81keAfJIUtMkkI1q_XSEypqMXqtnb_M7E3m4SkEFIvmCCruIIcRi62YtWhfbtxas9m4Ei95y9ceeBrlr6HPhYUO5j_4SsJ_WCQgaZ3PqHBt0GDyDmEegttDxw9RlzwIIoyyjeaMpMrrTz4w7kUezUbixIELfjnDl-LEbudcaM2jK_KUpeRwX8LdM3_iY/s1209/20230810_184820.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81keAfJIUtMkkI1q_XSEypqMXqtnb_M7E3m4SkEFIvmCCruIIcRi62YtWhfbtxas9m4Ei95y9ceeBrlr6HPhYUO5j_4SsJ_WCQgaZ3PqHBt0GDyDmEegttDxw9RlzwIIoyyjeaMpMrrTz4w7kUezUbixIELfjnDl-LEbudcaM2jK_KUpeRwX8LdM3_iY/s320/20230810_184820.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJe_sz3AbTwnCPjzumhS82vBaAw475PkwJ0LOe1HZQB3FFXeJrLzrVtNlqPpkgHQ_9t3DRgtSyl58ooAeusI_oRamXlWtMN4Y8lccbheSdGTUIwl3ccQsWv7CKCIpVFyiiZLfBRz6RjjuOSEXP_die-DYempbD50nGys8q_jVn4i_Ng05X-l_jqBruVIE/s1209/20230810_192713.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJe_sz3AbTwnCPjzumhS82vBaAw475PkwJ0LOe1HZQB3FFXeJrLzrVtNlqPpkgHQ_9t3DRgtSyl58ooAeusI_oRamXlWtMN4Y8lccbheSdGTUIwl3ccQsWv7CKCIpVFyiiZLfBRz6RjjuOSEXP_die-DYempbD50nGys8q_jVn4i_Ng05X-l_jqBruVIE/s320/20230810_192713.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>La sera è travagliata, e nulla porta a pensare che domani io sia in grado di pedalare. Ci lasciamo aperte tutte le opzioni: stare qui, pedalare poco, pedalare una tappa intera e recuperare un po' dei km persi. Il vento agita le palme e pare voglia piovere. Mi addormento di nuovo, appesantita da antibiotico e tachipirina, e dormo un sonno nero senza sogni.</div><div><br /></div><div>11/8</div><div>Penjamo-La Barca</div><div>104km</div><div><br /></div><div>La nottata porta riposo, e stamattina mi sveglio abbastanza in forma. Mi sento debolissima, e ho la sensazione che potrei dormire altri diecimila anni. Ma non ho dolori di sorta, nè nausea o crampi allo stomaco, e il termometro conferma che di febbre non c'è più traccia. Allora si va! Non so se sarrò in grado di pedalare una tappa intera, ma ci sono abbastanza paesi lungo il percorso da permettere il lusso della scelta.</div><div>Gigi è incredulo, come me del resto, per la ripresa così rapida. Bevo un tè molto zuccherato per colazione, e pian piano mi preparo. Devo fare tutto lentamente e da seduta, ma questa stanchezza titanica non mi è nuova: nei viaggi, soprattutto verso la fine, capita, e spesso.</div><div>Salutiamo Penjamo dopo una visita al benzinaio, per gonfiare la gomma di Gigi (ormai è prassi quotidiana), salutiamo i suoi monumenti a Hidalgo, nato qui in zona nel 1753, e salutiamo i morti che ingrassano la terra e portavano i nomi di Otomì, Guamares, Purépecha e Chichimeca, ma anche indipendentisti e truppe fedeli al re, e cittadini arsi vivi nel grande incendio del 1815.</div><div><br /></div><div>L'aria è fresca e il sole velato. La luce pare azzurrognola come le foglie grasse dell'agave, qui coltivata per ettari ed ettari. Non a caso ci sono alcune grandi aziende che producono tequila.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijmIU6fvZZGEPwdwV3hEBGvc9nSWQnW4S9wKyMnkDNzzUembpZNc1AzdICAz57xnonDdFCnD1B20xQaQmBb4GirWex3uEGAIh5SUKIbRXAGSCXwct5sVek3zIiDUhIZgrL5Vf7mbedFSBUmM_AWtNH0oIsYyLwbG-2vaRCVhuSYpcIC4zPOz-NJD6y0eE/s1209/20230811_093041.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijmIU6fvZZGEPwdwV3hEBGvc9nSWQnW4S9wKyMnkDNzzUembpZNc1AzdICAz57xnonDdFCnD1B20xQaQmBb4GirWex3uEGAIh5SUKIbRXAGSCXwct5sVek3zIiDUhIZgrL5Vf7mbedFSBUmM_AWtNH0oIsYyLwbG-2vaRCVhuSYpcIC4zPOz-NJD6y0eE/s320/20230811_093041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH6bRUYCmfnmzK4tEdN-ejG3ekYovGgvK_ifr7IhAOextjxDy69ol8Jtbtk3hBae4rlUpEqpxgVgs3U2wN9mThvJPhxiMrXxmI6kE_FrCnJws74faaXJtiM2tf8_U5J85pd_2CVTLA0FvBTVJiYTtmTkZ_qFiOBHicqOB8slkjwH0UBRNsc7S7olt8L70/s1209/20230811_094204.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH6bRUYCmfnmzK4tEdN-ejG3ekYovGgvK_ifr7IhAOextjxDy69ol8Jtbtk3hBae4rlUpEqpxgVgs3U2wN9mThvJPhxiMrXxmI6kE_FrCnJws74faaXJtiM2tf8_U5J85pd_2CVTLA0FvBTVJiYTtmTkZ_qFiOBHicqOB8slkjwH0UBRNsc7S7olt8L70/s320/20230811_094204.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqP2WdPSNfK2Yc1cBFidrUF6q0VTiTliFY1NvDfmp3tWg65vAJtiTwIlBAvvu5cKziUUgSLQdsN-vCAAStOOwVZTrBtMlaiuBHcr7Mjdb-mno258jgWceP4X0KHtw7WvWw0TrD6NcFCCa0VGrJ9d4PotKSl47ow9zWvWiKrNF3Bg-J1g4ncu4WNWshho/s1209/20230811_094206.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqP2WdPSNfK2Yc1cBFidrUF6q0VTiTliFY1NvDfmp3tWg65vAJtiTwIlBAvvu5cKziUUgSLQdsN-vCAAStOOwVZTrBtMlaiuBHcr7Mjdb-mno258jgWceP4X0KHtw7WvWw0TrD6NcFCCa0VGrJ9d4PotKSl47ow9zWvWiKrNF3Bg-J1g4ncu4WNWshho/s320/20230811_094206.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Io pedalo piano piano, e sono molle e gelatinosa come un budino. Dopo un po' torna qualche crampo, qualche bruciore da togliere il fiato, ma niente di più. Certo, procedere così è complicato, ma ho deciso di voler proseguire il più possibile, e il corpo deve obbedire, che piaccia o meno. Per fortuna la strada è liscia, dritta e quasi sempre in piano, circondata dalle morbide alture della sierra di Penjamo</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy8pR9cflECBRG2GtHwFwoMPGMMi4Eeaz_JFQLZIpKMPkjAWc-EWTM_yx1jL3ldFhJd2NXSsfpnxbIVp1fkFmYa0v-D2WBeeFQsFHjsKMSjTkjhIxR5ozxZ7Fi07z3dB2ntNncrdHnDD8DvkeCXm92plmnXrDa1g6T7ii3yoS26eFxOteAOqRO_EYJLYg/s1209/20230811_095129.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy8pR9cflECBRG2GtHwFwoMPGMMi4Eeaz_JFQLZIpKMPkjAWc-EWTM_yx1jL3ldFhJd2NXSsfpnxbIVp1fkFmYa0v-D2WBeeFQsFHjsKMSjTkjhIxR5ozxZ7Fi07z3dB2ntNncrdHnDD8DvkeCXm92plmnXrDa1g6T7ii3yoS26eFxOteAOqRO_EYJLYg/s320/20230811_095129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_oRyjGHngdM2eN4gvYa3uhE0Ll7SMamBn51-ESokWZsU4jb31x-JFRQTOsYAZJe3UQfLvgdd4fG8AUkZUB7WX-W4Gq-Qvem-lwmsrWAlgJ7jX98NuePys_NXiuNrU1OR1-vN-sg4smC1qPgelCcAU9wViuk9vuCMx0sieiybTznrLkpQm-Lg9IzIWYs/s1209/20230811_095132.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_oRyjGHngdM2eN4gvYa3uhE0Ll7SMamBn51-ESokWZsU4jb31x-JFRQTOsYAZJe3UQfLvgdd4fG8AUkZUB7WX-W4Gq-Qvem-lwmsrWAlgJ7jX98NuePys_NXiuNrU1OR1-vN-sg4smC1qPgelCcAU9wViuk9vuCMx0sieiybTznrLkpQm-Lg9IzIWYs/s320/20230811_095132.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo lo svincolo per il sito archeologico Plazuelas; qui alcune strutture piramidali circondano una piazza dove si svolgevano danze rituali. Dagli scavi è emersa l'influenza di numerose culture che si sono succedute nell'utilizzo e ampliamento di questi edifici, tra 600 e 900 d.C.. L'ingresso al sito è segnalato da una macelleria di maiali, con annesso odore e coro di urla disperate.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ZHW-cSrGWsR9G93d_mSi5hV4ZTDnZm6MTsZ7U-_0Dr5lUNx8CmlJJ1Lg51jbw-nsg8gvXGED6CM-C1A8U0kA7P8PAFQJe6N5pESghOiMD5-XD1mHsq9wwueLPAjqBk2ts5hMQEHsxsA8Rop2J1Tb6l-16x_3vtPDPAe8pSmoAAsQ1L9Z5kdJ8ObVw8s/s3805/20230811_100002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2854" data-original-width="3805" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ZHW-cSrGWsR9G93d_mSi5hV4ZTDnZm6MTsZ7U-_0Dr5lUNx8CmlJJ1Lg51jbw-nsg8gvXGED6CM-C1A8U0kA7P8PAFQJe6N5pESghOiMD5-XD1mHsq9wwueLPAjqBk2ts5hMQEHsxsA8Rop2J1Tb6l-16x_3vtPDPAe8pSmoAAsQ1L9Z5kdJ8ObVw8s/s320/20230811_100002.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1O5rsfd80bBgdr9t7RUbMYzTZZyzHQquUiO1L1R7K4UDRzZ68z0FAq0GKm6HJQz5r6wfi3gEtsCto6HHKa8wYUK8FVf_GLm1U6KpaPOT4xRZU6_-Hzc8-p8QMzZqO7ZphB_1p33GW4-_E1M5Q61xdJSVVb5PopRVkp9cUDuupsZCNQiSX0Pi82muSw4k/s1209/20230811_100002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1O5rsfd80bBgdr9t7RUbMYzTZZyzHQquUiO1L1R7K4UDRzZ68z0FAq0GKm6HJQz5r6wfi3gEtsCto6HHKa8wYUK8FVf_GLm1U6KpaPOT4xRZU6_-Hzc8-p8QMzZqO7ZphB_1p33GW4-_E1M5Q61xdJSVVb5PopRVkp9cUDuupsZCNQiSX0Pi82muSw4k/s320/20230811_100002.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3o2Ngh9g_4OdWJ58VVNL5l_q086fnTUJdy4ccB1TtQ_om9CxP4pd33oSzWWJhJ7jZZpa3lPQInZODjDLa9knhvC2OQPU1rOW4bVaYiQNQv4pLK4M2SEMrniK-831QJF6yIhVgXHOzvxorX603AwrZ7kfxAylae5leRxLncWB0fEchxoDk61Twv9ymVs/s1209/20230811_100645.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3o2Ngh9g_4OdWJ58VVNL5l_q086fnTUJdy4ccB1TtQ_om9CxP4pd33oSzWWJhJ7jZZpa3lPQInZODjDLa9knhvC2OQPU1rOW4bVaYiQNQv4pLK4M2SEMrniK-831QJF6yIhVgXHOzvxorX603AwrZ7kfxAylae5leRxLncWB0fEchxoDk61Twv9ymVs/s320/20230811_100645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYzXV5OTjZfq9bMUNwsV4BYeEevkWowMhY2_3Z1iwOF4kf3MDhn91F7KsJe-AsMfjaqeXsRE8oc5gijL7JkHia1-3wT0PMQLmLq3imrnG7dwm6knpknrFjPNixC884HFCd03xUF-WbzjDNLUczHCIQ3zl_ectbdIB1JP2x5KNVSfR4sEUPzCPGskSagI/s1209/20230811_100647.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYzXV5OTjZfq9bMUNwsV4BYeEevkWowMhY2_3Z1iwOF4kf3MDhn91F7KsJe-AsMfjaqeXsRE8oc5gijL7JkHia1-3wT0PMQLmLq3imrnG7dwm6knpknrFjPNixC884HFCd03xUF-WbzjDNLUczHCIQ3zl_ectbdIB1JP2x5KNVSfR4sEUPzCPGskSagI/s320/20230811_100647.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Lo stradone che stiamo percorrendo è sede di lavori in corso, e numerosi tratti presentano viabilità modificata, restringimenti di corsia e sterrato polveroso. Nemmeno a dirlo, con questo tipo di fondo Gigi fora di nuovo. Viene dunque il momento di estrarre l'asso dalla manica, il mio copertone d'emergenza, pieghevole, verde, brutto come il peccato e probabilmente di pessima qualità, che porto con me per scaramanzia da quando, in Russia, mi sono trovata con il copertone squarciato nelle foreste a ovest di Mosca. Lo Schwalbe ormai consunto e aperto in più punti, viene caricato sulle borse, così che ora Gigi pare proprio un "rutamat", un robivecchi, con la bici con le scarpe spaiate e l'immondizia appresso.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywBuRyYR8nKjDScuQplbdvOyk-pvGm9PjeVP7ogYKOBbg2tPRO6PQPGtfID4SVUD2bjyRldd1CLgkFXK1EBsa1aQbnGhKN7v9S1lZ5wquDi0tiBPk_7t1qtSn6MGXByns_F0B3eJVDK9k5Id-eiNwAc9lpUFInz2I9v9ML0yKn339VlQheOzygF1hIPQ/s1209/20230811_113015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywBuRyYR8nKjDScuQplbdvOyk-pvGm9PjeVP7ogYKOBbg2tPRO6PQPGtfID4SVUD2bjyRldd1CLgkFXK1EBsa1aQbnGhKN7v9S1lZ5wquDi0tiBPk_7t1qtSn6MGXByns_F0B3eJVDK9k5Id-eiNwAc9lpUFInz2I9v9ML0yKn339VlQheOzygF1hIPQ/s320/20230811_113015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibUojxk9RxHkdZ4O2u0uwQs4bDvp72Wpy29-I7A0GIS29yghepNIl7XD7dacON5t2Jbw15U69R_ft_zufQ_0mafz9umrbpxgfOhGWFo6ZwtAPHVQudXWrBmLf9nXDxERo_R-EHgSj84fPO1Q_-p8f_c_A2UkLzJIloDXJwRGbBXFE47gBT6Sy7kcsdma4/s4128/20230811_112054.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="3096" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibUojxk9RxHkdZ4O2u0uwQs4bDvp72Wpy29-I7A0GIS29yghepNIl7XD7dacON5t2Jbw15U69R_ft_zufQ_0mafz9umrbpxgfOhGWFo6ZwtAPHVQudXWrBmLf9nXDxERo_R-EHgSj84fPO1Q_-p8f_c_A2UkLzJIloDXJwRGbBXFE47gBT6Sy7kcsdma4/s320/20230811_112054.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh456i_0ABTpqtXbJq4S_oVJxhNqhDHWcQT96628os_SFleYkbMaLk90aQwEa6NNgTnCygajXiy8YpbtY2d-gFEdMji8uVzwspS00kXLKq6TkqejKdXwGOvMnH7xtzzY5icxn3KZXhKtU7zToSIQ2M0ATy2kc-BX4izMLgG7xPTGcSHR8LITREIgMfg7A8/s1209/20230811_113053.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh456i_0ABTpqtXbJq4S_oVJxhNqhDHWcQT96628os_SFleYkbMaLk90aQwEa6NNgTnCygajXiy8YpbtY2d-gFEdMji8uVzwspS00kXLKq6TkqejKdXwGOvMnH7xtzzY5icxn3KZXhKtU7zToSIQ2M0ATy2kc-BX4izMLgG7xPTGcSHR8LITREIgMfg7A8/s320/20230811_113053.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4KGlVEf1tyJrZy3HmgcTOOj5NApsA0SjJ_Nuj-unY9l8qGmW9YS7fLBvckfmKB03WElVba896mudaBj2J9RA1V5iUukuI3K7I0gO334FMbgZ0ZTUOeo3hFXxuRyVDyZ90bzI1D5FOsz7ogLDC7g3lLjHaDM5pPLqSB-OycI618pZWRUCx4Nkz5pC_kps/s1209/20230811_113309.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4KGlVEf1tyJrZy3HmgcTOOj5NApsA0SjJ_Nuj-unY9l8qGmW9YS7fLBvckfmKB03WElVba896mudaBj2J9RA1V5iUukuI3K7I0gO334FMbgZ0ZTUOeo3hFXxuRyVDyZ90bzI1D5FOsz7ogLDC7g3lLjHaDM5pPLqSB-OycI618pZWRUCx4Nkz5pC_kps/s320/20230811_113309.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Così, un po' malconci nel corpo e nelle bici e nello spirito, arriviamo a La Piedad de Cabadas, dove, in teoria, avremmo dovuto far tappa ieri sera. Questa città dalla storia fumosa e non registrata, se non per gli ultimi secoli, è tutta un gran mercato. E infatti succedono le due cose tipiche dei mercati: 1. ci perdiamo per un attimo, sbagliando strada 2. troviamo ciò di cui abbiamo bisogno. Infatti, girovagando per riprendere la traccia, ci imbattiamo in due negozi di bici. Il primo non ha nulla, il secondo, invece, ha un copertone della misura giusta, discreto per qualità, e anche camere d'aria con la valvola francese. Gigi compra tutto, e il paron, entusiasta e incredulo riguardo alla sua età, gli regala pure un set di toppe e colla. Il tutto per 10 ricchi euro!</div><div>Uscendo da La Piedad, oltretutto, ci lasciamo alle spalle lo stato di Guanajuato, per entrare in Michoacan. Questo nome mi frulla in testa da che son qui in Messico per due ragioni: la prima è la sua fama per i dolci, i gelati, la pasticceria in generale. La seconda è la sua pericolosità, almeno stando alle parole dei local con cui abbiamo parlato. "Occhio al Michoacan, è un posto pericoloso!". Anche la Farnesina allerta, in merito. Noi ci staremo solo oggi, per qualche decina di km.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUUSvF3iTIBqNo14zkjcg_1zgcHr0g1Czinlg0fASNN5QdOmyS-4b2vrmGyHpghMqQW_O3hRDV0CdHq1oO-CRTzOshKIBFJhhuPuvWfOlOcQIwCyDAZZdXY41FCSGCAAw-vgsLahL-piYIlV7kaHt2T6-WlBe45fLtjs-gozeN6sVhc2c4my4beqDm_Pk/s1209/20230811_115415.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUUSvF3iTIBqNo14zkjcg_1zgcHr0g1Czinlg0fASNN5QdOmyS-4b2vrmGyHpghMqQW_O3hRDV0CdHq1oO-CRTzOshKIBFJhhuPuvWfOlOcQIwCyDAZZdXY41FCSGCAAw-vgsLahL-piYIlV7kaHt2T6-WlBe45fLtjs-gozeN6sVhc2c4my4beqDm_Pk/s320/20230811_115415.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicRTS7I4ha95LeuP2TZOgUxule3gCA_n2DbH5W5jk1UlwePGcVzp2K7dRLCX190OMirOJ4u5yd4LxFUZRc1CsXSue_h2OMyHE2Z29q1ML_bF-N3i42q9HfZnBSz66ZwVMYK7cQqYz_1hYI80jIYjTbUpebyRnToi5AaK-LgIPKX69dNgU7r-JXSTpTDbI/s1209/20230811_115429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicRTS7I4ha95LeuP2TZOgUxule3gCA_n2DbH5W5jk1UlwePGcVzp2K7dRLCX190OMirOJ4u5yd4LxFUZRc1CsXSue_h2OMyHE2Z29q1ML_bF-N3i42q9HfZnBSz66ZwVMYK7cQqYz_1hYI80jIYjTbUpebyRnToi5AaK-LgIPKX69dNgU7r-JXSTpTDbI/s320/20230811_115429.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeyGRHJFK34Q82UzC4urHISQAnYY7Nj9ZP2qCNoiEEm0KybVv70D22kNfFJqvGkqSs3QPdNlWucyfbKh7TDqpkc_0f5F78G5X7pBZ43TzAbXpPY-eWbXhd6sdG3IkeFQ96glNgutoWsRc82YOwInMhRropo82khRO7-sGKmI0Wr_YqL_BY9GhcyiHIpUA/s1209/20230811_120021.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeyGRHJFK34Q82UzC4urHISQAnYY7Nj9ZP2qCNoiEEm0KybVv70D22kNfFJqvGkqSs3QPdNlWucyfbKh7TDqpkc_0f5F78G5X7pBZ43TzAbXpPY-eWbXhd6sdG3IkeFQ96glNgutoWsRc82YOwInMhRropo82khRO7-sGKmI0Wr_YqL_BY9GhcyiHIpUA/s320/20230811_120021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIxy_au2hmTgsyEZI4JEkGtTNwVpRgVm9yD9bT71GDOM6kXCa1QKckuDAEl1BzcQ8Pli-21ZpmJBSjXFYBDKABnH8zeC-d_nwF5x_sxpjLyW10t3AAltfctnUb5hzDIlRRpFxilZPXekgWdjFp7QFeFs8RnoHRwC308YnQlLSYZEelip3q77lZjOeMIo/s1209/20230811_120237.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHIxy_au2hmTgsyEZI4JEkGtTNwVpRgVm9yD9bT71GDOM6kXCa1QKckuDAEl1BzcQ8Pli-21ZpmJBSjXFYBDKABnH8zeC-d_nwF5x_sxpjLyW10t3AAltfctnUb5hzDIlRRpFxilZPXekgWdjFp7QFeFs8RnoHRwC308YnQlLSYZEelip3q77lZjOeMIo/s320/20230811_120237.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZp80ll_FKadarFmFRKZhAuTmX-KO1-eRRB0nLuhD6eFS8Le05dtkPlsl5tnuhCw4PVpmpuIkVyanUiNRY4EVRfA6lEf2qUkoqHZ9Ei_50JTiP0CvrKgV8WApV95J4Le6AM8nF07OkTa2XwwAH1UEWOwYk2RqHm1CggT27IamY5ZM7ww7Gk7OCAKOHAHs/s1209/20230811_120247.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZp80ll_FKadarFmFRKZhAuTmX-KO1-eRRB0nLuhD6eFS8Le05dtkPlsl5tnuhCw4PVpmpuIkVyanUiNRY4EVRfA6lEf2qUkoqHZ9Ei_50JTiP0CvrKgV8WApV95J4Le6AM8nF07OkTa2XwwAH1UEWOwYk2RqHm1CggT27IamY5ZM7ww7Gk7OCAKOHAHs/s320/20230811_120247.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uBg5j6bKEh9CB9f-h0cLfgcILmNc7IsylKDOJEN_9E_0E0H4mbummVOffLW2Ip_9AbQbK1F3FjcWXB6WzTy3Vb54l6LiMO7XnrvDfoPkWiKvOg7aI4ewtTt1uscmb6IMo3bn171QKJt2o8mePtiIIrPMpaQTh-WK6vd2iJw9yl5vxgbYbm_ab29jZuE/s1209/20230811_120655.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uBg5j6bKEh9CB9f-h0cLfgcILmNc7IsylKDOJEN_9E_0E0H4mbummVOffLW2Ip_9AbQbK1F3FjcWXB6WzTy3Vb54l6LiMO7XnrvDfoPkWiKvOg7aI4ewtTt1uscmb6IMo3bn171QKJt2o8mePtiIIrPMpaQTh-WK6vd2iJw9yl5vxgbYbm_ab29jZuE/s320/20230811_120655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUfysdaehKCQqqZgXxqm0XJcdHSDGh3kjeMxZ2kGouFNU0l-zFXHSrFAyM_NZx7VgftMfq0r62JPoTfKweyLAom38_EPhWc63UcfPbK4DgthA749pKKECZNHwU7LohyBbAcH8v470DKjJ2ePwQytqGWHYkMHcy3vgQZwbRvDsdsK9mqKKnL_umPPrJhw4/s1209/20230811_120658.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUfysdaehKCQqqZgXxqm0XJcdHSDGh3kjeMxZ2kGouFNU0l-zFXHSrFAyM_NZx7VgftMfq0r62JPoTfKweyLAom38_EPhWc63UcfPbK4DgthA749pKKECZNHwU7LohyBbAcH8v470DKjJ2ePwQytqGWHYkMHcy3vgQZwbRvDsdsK9mqKKnL_umPPrJhw4/s320/20230811_120658.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXA9gN_dPneOHG6YJ0F7BmaekdeHFcdXBiqTGW9gcxaz15PkVEpej935BwxWzKLpgxQkcGqoBqQ5rKULQFRRAj9s2PVf7aWbpdT6G8c-57r0vovl336nVDb8I0pKjGm4at0Knu7m3CcrkNa-tKsLP6t4x8P99HgPzJEUzGew5GV_dvI0agRYlnWxMwic/s1209/20230811_120701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXA9gN_dPneOHG6YJ0F7BmaekdeHFcdXBiqTGW9gcxaz15PkVEpej935BwxWzKLpgxQkcGqoBqQ5rKULQFRRAj9s2PVf7aWbpdT6G8c-57r0vovl336nVDb8I0pKjGm4at0Knu7m3CcrkNa-tKsLP6t4x8P99HgPzJEUzGew5GV_dvI0agRYlnWxMwic/s320/20230811_120701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ritrovata la retta via dopo la perdizione nel mercato, affrontiamo qualche lieve saliscendi delle colline che portano a ovest, verso Guadalajara. Riceviamo tante sclacsonate di incoraggiamento e saluti festosi. Addirittura un automobilista accosta e ci fa un video, filmandoci mentre pedaliamo e mentre lo salutiamo. E io che pensavo volesse rapinarci! Vola anche qualche "gringo!", qualche strillo non proprio amichevole... E qualche manciata di quella spero sia erba, e non sterco. Un pastore con le vacche, mentre passiamo, ci saluta gioiosamente e poi, senza alcun preavviso emotivo, ci lancia una manciata di roba umida, verde e marrone. La famosa benedizione della merda.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDWFatbORJ8B1Uc9-sbgrjyboXM7okAYMHavXqsjIusQ7tfE8Wlhcacrud9whO0278H0aKkdTYHm3N9mLFw145E1ASIrs-GtEE7CBSiw1DJeSXyauR70p3WzopX1PZuIuWlE9098p10WubSEGvnqcrtAv11-5XeU5oj8dsC6xE-GRDkg1nn6Ey_Wd9Ec/s1209/20230811_130053.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDWFatbORJ8B1Uc9-sbgrjyboXM7okAYMHavXqsjIusQ7tfE8Wlhcacrud9whO0278H0aKkdTYHm3N9mLFw145E1ASIrs-GtEE7CBSiw1DJeSXyauR70p3WzopX1PZuIuWlE9098p10WubSEGvnqcrtAv11-5XeU5oj8dsC6xE-GRDkg1nn6Ey_Wd9Ec/s320/20230811_130053.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkwxSGhSRM1GPdHaYomvCRAHJPVUFMhgbGFNtA-p8vTmsqpC6Vrv9aimd5mvAbe36-psOVioF_W6mU-P5tP8neti1YPPxF4GrzJSkywEM2gxiGl4jpgRGGCeaTAP2le0UTc4C3LV4R1qF5FPpLP6CDiNQUw_B4palbhHYZ9_ynbVceO1oJl11cGkZfQD8/s1209/20230811_130100.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkwxSGhSRM1GPdHaYomvCRAHJPVUFMhgbGFNtA-p8vTmsqpC6Vrv9aimd5mvAbe36-psOVioF_W6mU-P5tP8neti1YPPxF4GrzJSkywEM2gxiGl4jpgRGGCeaTAP2le0UTc4C3LV4R1qF5FPpLP6CDiNQUw_B4palbhHYZ9_ynbVceO1oJl11cGkZfQD8/s320/20230811_130100.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEi3Wzqn501zzWP6WFJourq_aoL4ssO-3eyilUcP1PjN4ov7Fdfmq4rlmcOGdNyhdkpNkIu9HNiu9sz0buJ5izK0cklmct_ifCYq1MjMx1AHPKV944L7dQWxhjd05VTFQI7vMoTB5gGm3eH9Cy-eIMjAQaDTJu5Sw6y3jXHCNlVVLDv7pBjovoMq4_UM/s1209/20230811_132000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEi3Wzqn501zzWP6WFJourq_aoL4ssO-3eyilUcP1PjN4ov7Fdfmq4rlmcOGdNyhdkpNkIu9HNiu9sz0buJ5izK0cklmct_ifCYq1MjMx1AHPKV944L7dQWxhjd05VTFQI7vMoTB5gGm3eH9Cy-eIMjAQaDTJu5Sw6y3jXHCNlVVLDv7pBjovoMq4_UM/s320/20230811_132000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjf7Yw9rkC25GsCa9txDgEdM4rknweDsGvUjf8_1TKGCEM8xFFhtNItYKA2D48jCiFit2A34ddQ3p6ZZ6aKv49LcLc6VmazZyrdMedBAHGvb-1AmKQE91OqaQk7Qb5a1MzTaOYnMXUc74sEhzVanvAbSuqVpmRVc8lHP0uHsVj96ABtdYBZjpih2Or5M/s1209/20230811_132003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjf7Yw9rkC25GsCa9txDgEdM4rknweDsGvUjf8_1TKGCEM8xFFhtNItYKA2D48jCiFit2A34ddQ3p6ZZ6aKv49LcLc6VmazZyrdMedBAHGvb-1AmKQE91OqaQk7Qb5a1MzTaOYnMXUc74sEhzVanvAbSuqVpmRVc8lHP0uHsVj96ABtdYBZjpih2Or5M/s320/20230811_132003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrnUt_7_V-jlYTKR3yxfvJlDRxSGTG0rGO9kA4XXpcLZiozqKBgqE4gffMSi9CRRDYg6cg8q5PuT-cGgokg5l3Y1yktq0agH1_-QUEPeqWI45shMVb3oyruYzVUbctDIdSWg9-trtZmEOn0RGKOpAb6F0xbSgllXiHDZnjYiRjeMvRmsJ7_Fww3gKGrEc/s1209/20230811_132008.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrnUt_7_V-jlYTKR3yxfvJlDRxSGTG0rGO9kA4XXpcLZiozqKBgqE4gffMSi9CRRDYg6cg8q5PuT-cGgokg5l3Y1yktq0agH1_-QUEPeqWI45shMVb3oyruYzVUbctDIdSWg9-trtZmEOn0RGKOpAb6F0xbSgllXiHDZnjYiRjeMvRmsJ7_Fww3gKGrEc/s320/20230811_132008.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I piccoli centri abitati che passiamo danno la misura di un benessere che qui latita. Le case sono diroccate e fatiscenti, la strada malconcia le auto e i furgoni vecchissimi e arrugginiti. Le catene di negozi diffuse negli altri stati sono qui sostituite da imitazioni. Ad esempio, l'Oxxo (una specie di Autogrill) qui è sostituito da Xoxo, negozietti a gestione familiare che nulla hanno a che spartire con l'originale. Oltretutto, automobilisti e camonisti guidano in maniera molto più spericolata, con manovre inquietanti e incidenti sfiorati ogni attimo. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibB0AYY6J_tQ-A0Ddo0HHtb6JKB4wwH_d4yU6Kv2nd9A6qU_gyJjTXVPJvNe_bdW0OekDZbfD1vyANdWN4UT4CiSDkLI832UgBPy60O2U79O4-_uFzPKbS-3nmF8MwXeW57Lyn7QG3LnDe-VBi22pPAvXI8tI3kVbcBWiUPG9iBxYxmkSomfI7Vk-zzBs/s1209/20230811_132344.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibB0AYY6J_tQ-A0Ddo0HHtb6JKB4wwH_d4yU6Kv2nd9A6qU_gyJjTXVPJvNe_bdW0OekDZbfD1vyANdWN4UT4CiSDkLI832UgBPy60O2U79O4-_uFzPKbS-3nmF8MwXeW57Lyn7QG3LnDe-VBi22pPAvXI8tI3kVbcBWiUPG9iBxYxmkSomfI7Vk-zzBs/s320/20230811_132344.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55R2kQ2GgQODYALzM_o3RbBbN7-tQv3QTzWBrAihSV6RY7K3iM_YV1PvoVp5HnWo1LyAzJnzJl_0ynvDXNnj3o0CzqGAy5ljUsRyYou0_OTwzDJKoihUTEX697H_nyol3cGGbiW6yDuUz1ZEC9OTcJ-e1sV5Cik4e_XsF-Wzt9cNb7K0tYD-JUGYhenw/s1209/20230811_140046.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55R2kQ2GgQODYALzM_o3RbBbN7-tQv3QTzWBrAihSV6RY7K3iM_YV1PvoVp5HnWo1LyAzJnzJl_0ynvDXNnj3o0CzqGAy5ljUsRyYou0_OTwzDJKoihUTEX697H_nyol3cGGbiW6yDuUz1ZEC9OTcJ-e1sV5Cik4e_XsF-Wzt9cNb7K0tYD-JUGYhenw/s320/20230811_140046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3GUvI50v8tdICy4Uk0cis-6aoQerbwX7K6CVq_eGHrv4AZ2EYSvc_h_KugkjuqX054zpjzk-2I6qYWDQ33l8ounzex3QsskTmR2x_OpDk6LfTRmi6SBrEAUX481snZ6ASvntrOLHfpHT4Iw1panlDD9AHt5kNN8YAder4k22J37oEUTRF4hW6bS5N4Dw/s1209/20230811_140209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3GUvI50v8tdICy4Uk0cis-6aoQerbwX7K6CVq_eGHrv4AZ2EYSvc_h_KugkjuqX054zpjzk-2I6qYWDQ33l8ounzex3QsskTmR2x_OpDk6LfTRmi6SBrEAUX481snZ6ASvntrOLHfpHT4Iw1panlDD9AHt5kNN8YAder4k22J37oEUTRF4hW6bS5N4Dw/s320/20230811_140209.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFK-Ynjj7S9lXwTOTfKfEkUyrtesymEQomuY05UM9Vvz0NMBnX4hkYfzO0uau49R59321I6Kx1gLpCG4D2w1W4yHyTtljlhspCIGQZmAKZj75wFW74axbmlTkoYdENK-1ceQ8XfCd_V46KpeIJ8bbSv1QQZXCUItXR_yjA3S_bgBce2oAdhXatLEM7gn4/s1209/20230811_140213.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFK-Ynjj7S9lXwTOTfKfEkUyrtesymEQomuY05UM9Vvz0NMBnX4hkYfzO0uau49R59321I6Kx1gLpCG4D2w1W4yHyTtljlhspCIGQZmAKZj75wFW74axbmlTkoYdENK-1ceQ8XfCd_V46KpeIJ8bbSv1QQZXCUItXR_yjA3S_bgBce2oAdhXatLEM7gn4/s320/20230811_140213.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NJSojoo5F1vkEP0Ifa_M80eTk_v10l3bsBGg_0aaQON8kTrCEXY5J8V9I-2fnCSZdAVMOKi4B6i4Gi-kBz3ZaST5TWHOs1RrnL8Pr_ToHQj3yRKIwudG9PrRyin-gFEaKJrFccAN7iSQOD7MFHiW7jRZJlvLP_1Q0DQa6Yf7iNefEZ--iCH349sUxmk/s1209/20230811_140817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NJSojoo5F1vkEP0Ifa_M80eTk_v10l3bsBGg_0aaQON8kTrCEXY5J8V9I-2fnCSZdAVMOKi4B6i4Gi-kBz3ZaST5TWHOs1RrnL8Pr_ToHQj3yRKIwudG9PrRyin-gFEaKJrFccAN7iSQOD7MFHiW7jRZJlvLP_1Q0DQa6Yf7iNefEZ--iCH349sUxmk/s320/20230811_140817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr7s-sciXjYjQYjFRSoV1Nv71iAdbPgBpDV4m2VdpAFeZi_xNljJGf9p3vF02jEZzRK0AtcW0RXLFB3qnjMj1CnU85F1t6uqWuPqrcotX97mKpK3xaafOJmzjnIaZ3WkyJfin8s-GE_byVhHJG7qlI0kzRo0zdof2D_P-zY4Yt_MlDIwYlOZfkoUgrgyk/s1209/20230811_144011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr7s-sciXjYjQYjFRSoV1Nv71iAdbPgBpDV4m2VdpAFeZi_xNljJGf9p3vF02jEZzRK0AtcW0RXLFB3qnjMj1CnU85F1t6uqWuPqrcotX97mKpK3xaafOJmzjnIaZ3WkyJfin8s-GE_byVhHJG7qlI0kzRo0zdof2D_P-zY4Yt_MlDIwYlOZfkoUgrgyk/s320/20230811_144011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1CRyaP3Fda2BqPH726Ofub6fSwEkSA5x7F32HIhzr5oEx4ahbDHK5r7jfhv3-JuZZN2GzXGGjMdEeX343cA8UKSEjOPf8YBVuTR_1m8GBnY7oNrtKG7mrzxoGx8DMijunOh5QrzHK3_DY3YIxBh8Wu_3DHWQHWa26WnWuotp2sjgnRZvUskVbcchVxE0/s1209/20230811_144014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1CRyaP3Fda2BqPH726Ofub6fSwEkSA5x7F32HIhzr5oEx4ahbDHK5r7jfhv3-JuZZN2GzXGGjMdEeX343cA8UKSEjOPf8YBVuTR_1m8GBnY7oNrtKG7mrzxoGx8DMijunOh5QrzHK3_DY3YIxBh8Wu_3DHWQHWa26WnWuotp2sjgnRZvUskVbcchVxE0/s320/20230811_144014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1CAf3RifH-20JLMNqeEyKrVRe_jXNppibuOJGiegOsxtDyUbouFQloja2S7_nt_K77RbJbpzvMykVwlH951HWSRTIoF6yHu0OwITovnibRviXSX9pmbJIBy1om82E-FBmEmU8n0pBTM9DhB3_2GfgqJbddzT9RyGmIB-0XuUAhmRrLVZhQh8b0kkHmm4/s1209/20230811_145254.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1CAf3RifH-20JLMNqeEyKrVRe_jXNppibuOJGiegOsxtDyUbouFQloja2S7_nt_K77RbJbpzvMykVwlH951HWSRTIoF6yHu0OwITovnibRviXSX9pmbJIBy1om82E-FBmEmU8n0pBTM9DhB3_2GfgqJbddzT9RyGmIB-0XuUAhmRrLVZhQh8b0kkHmm4/s320/20230811_145254.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Raggiungiamo, dopo salitella e piacevole discesa, Yerecuaro, città a 70km dalla partenza che poteva essere punto d'approdo in caso di malesseri. Gigi è convinto che io mi voglia fermare qui, e già imbocca lo svincolo che porta in paese. Gli faccio segno con la mano di andare. Lui è incredulo e quasi contrariato. "Vai, vai! Andale!" gli dico proseguendo la discesa in picchiata. Ho il sospetto che pagherò tutto, a tempo debito, ma ora mi sento così, di spingere sull'acceleratore e tirar dritto ai 104km di La Barca. Facciamo comunque una sosta in un piccolo paradero infestato dalle mosche. Prendo una Tachipirina, perchè è evidente che io abbia la febbre (non riesco più a muovere collo e schiena di un millimetro), mangio un alfajores di arachidi /cacahuate e siamo pronti a ripartire. Non devo nemmeno far pipì mai perchè sono così disidratata che ormai i reni posso anche darli al gatto. Ai gatti. In tutto ciò, mentre penso all'impero tarasco e al sangue che è stato sparso qui nelle guerre tra gruppi indigeni, prima ancora della conquista, un temporale inizia ad addensarsi sopra alle nostre teste.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZOdGP7INV4LR1tSP4esdDP3sZuUX_xsWBM_7pYxgCh1LErpdVGmTjG4BKM6y4g6lwWn_h3HzJv67SIxGve2mTiSnENJKTxq-qmsJU0snwJ9Zzcu4vgIC8vrBD-lFSiewcrYgP4NTfv30z7oOUEqvbtsCfi3foEP0ceU2SSygI2dilVYVRXhWZJyo5kcw/s1209/20230811_153717.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZOdGP7INV4LR1tSP4esdDP3sZuUX_xsWBM_7pYxgCh1LErpdVGmTjG4BKM6y4g6lwWn_h3HzJv67SIxGve2mTiSnENJKTxq-qmsJU0snwJ9Zzcu4vgIC8vrBD-lFSiewcrYgP4NTfv30z7oOUEqvbtsCfi3foEP0ceU2SSygI2dilVYVRXhWZJyo5kcw/s320/20230811_153717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWIyYRpnqetIKkeBVw7DoMY0DKQbH3FBSd6j0N9kbt6aOP2Y4NXoBlIo9MeymeqU6Fes2hjzi_pQgmoub7LcQYKw98ZTeX4seJeK6TCEeZvteimfUonyE_werxtOmrdK7GDeOoSdo-YiNbTQwxoiYGRgEN7xVD45Nf8eCSIjDXhLUc1sb-kndj0NioOw/s1209/20230811_153739.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWIyYRpnqetIKkeBVw7DoMY0DKQbH3FBSd6j0N9kbt6aOP2Y4NXoBlIo9MeymeqU6Fes2hjzi_pQgmoub7LcQYKw98ZTeX4seJeK6TCEeZvteimfUonyE_werxtOmrdK7GDeOoSdo-YiNbTQwxoiYGRgEN7xVD45Nf8eCSIjDXhLUc1sb-kndj0NioOw/s320/20230811_153739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAT1s_E0NMqjzVYTs9BrhU3E9u7nZObqbygvG0VEVR3tHL__E7MJA-JXFiR1h6scJH5obF729cDHnrfpwVXEXuGCrzCj5vAClVaCMA3FZyLK77ucPXd6RJJ3dI-OGkapCipooq-o-WxzaC0Fzep494mPB4WZhN3wuAy23QRWCTAfBEGjL-6O3YxOgaxBI/s1209/20230811_153846.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAT1s_E0NMqjzVYTs9BrhU3E9u7nZObqbygvG0VEVR3tHL__E7MJA-JXFiR1h6scJH5obF729cDHnrfpwVXEXuGCrzCj5vAClVaCMA3FZyLK77ucPXd6RJJ3dI-OGkapCipooq-o-WxzaC0Fzep494mPB4WZhN3wuAy23QRWCTAfBEGjL-6O3YxOgaxBI/s320/20230811_153846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM3mumYh0XrnQfKmbfgvHmV34JF0cyzwujqgZbGkZwXmqFqqOxgqGvEXImGs69YE_l6ZxC5NqsItiAZ_lN34UE7NFrqqR3Kt4oaYmi46t_xVSWgDaZWzgY0RXOg80CTz_JcKNOlXGZ5bCmQUFpEwZxr7eWHQZDj0PeU42R9cD2KVvFAlKez5n5SEk2feA/s1209/20230811_160147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM3mumYh0XrnQfKmbfgvHmV34JF0cyzwujqgZbGkZwXmqFqqOxgqGvEXImGs69YE_l6ZxC5NqsItiAZ_lN34UE7NFrqqR3Kt4oaYmi46t_xVSWgDaZWzgY0RXOg80CTz_JcKNOlXGZ5bCmQUFpEwZxr7eWHQZDj0PeU42R9cD2KVvFAlKez5n5SEk2feA/s320/20230811_160147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Da qui in poi pedaliamo in pianura, tra campi di agave e pomodori, mentre i tuoni fanno rimbombare la volta celeste. Si alza anche un vento contrario che nessuno ha chiesto, e ci rallenta. Superiamo Vista Hermosa de Negrete, ultimo pueblo michoacano che andiamo ad attraversare. Pur essendo nato dall'ampliarsi di una hacienda, ha un centro storico molto piacevole, tra parchi e chiese.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuFPcIJAf2st_FZc6GD0-qtDSShbfzmkERqSJjKpoEQL4tGOpcgvftiUMvTQmDjbK6rNnrP6ADI-M_9jF55dNNIS2utVQrZT7A-FzOKlAlUJ-DgiqxenQCtS6ApzJdLOT7GnE6VXUn5eTPuWMKbpwlZM2fiqhNb8P9loT0deLV-WmvjoAYtGnuY_T_gWA/s1209/20230811_160151.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuFPcIJAf2st_FZc6GD0-qtDSShbfzmkERqSJjKpoEQL4tGOpcgvftiUMvTQmDjbK6rNnrP6ADI-M_9jF55dNNIS2utVQrZT7A-FzOKlAlUJ-DgiqxenQCtS6ApzJdLOT7GnE6VXUn5eTPuWMKbpwlZM2fiqhNb8P9loT0deLV-WmvjoAYtGnuY_T_gWA/s320/20230811_160151.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrKKCRyI77ThvkSXqHmj8cxPa2nCYrKgxF-s0XeIzgqRQFYLaGRUONglSilzsM1IYsn3fxKAb0I7kJ7-JOXj8nSxx27OcsbKcpLFMmFovOCwPnrdEQtKNRcw9EVxjR6pGymEyhswudP6b5NW2a_xN63A9TrpGMqWlmBuoKxzwc5GnovUnGTn_p60EsAr8/s1209/20230811_162408.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrKKCRyI77ThvkSXqHmj8cxPa2nCYrKgxF-s0XeIzgqRQFYLaGRUONglSilzsM1IYsn3fxKAb0I7kJ7-JOXj8nSxx27OcsbKcpLFMmFovOCwPnrdEQtKNRcw9EVxjR6pGymEyhswudP6b5NW2a_xN63A9TrpGMqWlmBuoKxzwc5GnovUnGTn_p60EsAr8/s320/20230811_162408.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9zt6TJV15bVX2ReiC4NSgmGyYZUuqHiCQSUBKYZ8Avax7K8rrCuWlkhnV6hjCqjB7u8fvq3gnpwZl35KZ1h--QwMb0yU8LFPxcQnZ5u056iLHTPwsOBl-wwkdnD4tr6FUJS90vwmCljGUiq_2Gxx9R2mNSYOc0UzFgY7266qpd5GCmVOrInMkgGOTqA/s1209/20230811_162437.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9zt6TJV15bVX2ReiC4NSgmGyYZUuqHiCQSUBKYZ8Avax7K8rrCuWlkhnV6hjCqjB7u8fvq3gnpwZl35KZ1h--QwMb0yU8LFPxcQnZ5u056iLHTPwsOBl-wwkdnD4tr6FUJS90vwmCljGUiq_2Gxx9R2mNSYOc0UzFgY7266qpd5GCmVOrInMkgGOTqA/s320/20230811_162437.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtLRnrRys_J3taZ2NNarmR_dY11Kv8hcEsq1G09dR_cPA3xCwhocB5nWjJ4PY1HU00Dx0Jq280rM6rn3Y4DAzsXkWUyVeqwME2astxzOh9bDPh0aJA-8DS1yzNy_7kLlAZN5FEQMiRzrrYYEF5cnzIs9KHpAokMDcgLpG5BhS1VW9sxYynzoO_beOTMfk/s979/20230811_162613.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtLRnrRys_J3taZ2NNarmR_dY11Kv8hcEsq1G09dR_cPA3xCwhocB5nWjJ4PY1HU00Dx0Jq280rM6rn3Y4DAzsXkWUyVeqwME2astxzOh9bDPh0aJA-8DS1yzNy_7kLlAZN5FEQMiRzrrYYEF5cnzIs9KHpAokMDcgLpG5BhS1VW9sxYynzoO_beOTMfk/s320/20230811_162613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8rR-rJRITFGHpc-ZV4oSIQQ1iR59Pn7tALpf15prVj-CxtYFefjwdzFm69WC_aunxx1-p1Zc7tNMi8MyRpFHfO6ZR2JJNlgblXsiLaV7vK3sEMDe4lmbV-D57VGhld0Sq_JDzkONwViqthVLkUhjXXxclZc_wbNkkgtgkPSznqIqA7Qia6bFGPSxqJzw/s1209/20230811_162731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8rR-rJRITFGHpc-ZV4oSIQQ1iR59Pn7tALpf15prVj-CxtYFefjwdzFm69WC_aunxx1-p1Zc7tNMi8MyRpFHfO6ZR2JJNlgblXsiLaV7vK3sEMDe4lmbV-D57VGhld0Sq_JDzkONwViqthVLkUhjXXxclZc_wbNkkgtgkPSznqIqA7Qia6bFGPSxqJzw/s320/20230811_162731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdAe12CUCnLK4tvFNZ7p0hE0-i02OvJ54eugX8frI02sIPySewvPWcdeBs366-I_sz0DQR2cWOH6pRYWyLxZqPPwM2vMm1YjUl9NX9D0ZVqfhafYnJs4EX6t-tA7PoUoGQyLINE5AKEYmhDeMx9NGgL4zsihEsvAc1_XOFztdoM35jyKS8UIv3vqV80v4/s4128/20230811_162620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="3096" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdAe12CUCnLK4tvFNZ7p0hE0-i02OvJ54eugX8frI02sIPySewvPWcdeBs366-I_sz0DQR2cWOH6pRYWyLxZqPPwM2vMm1YjUl9NX9D0ZVqfhafYnJs4EX6t-tA7PoUoGQyLINE5AKEYmhDeMx9NGgL4zsihEsvAc1_XOFztdoM35jyKS8UIv3vqV80v4/s320/20230811_162620.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Siamo al gran finale, letteralmente con il botto. Tuona e lunghissimi fulmini squarciano le nubi come cicatrici elettriche. Lasciamo lo stradone asfaltato per buttarci in una scorciatoia, che è sterrata, impestata di fango e di perri mali. Gigi perde il copertone nuovo a più riprese, più c'è fretta più qualcosa deve succedere per rallentare il passo. Ma poi, tutto a un tratto, la sterrata si anima: giostre, musica, baracchini del cibo, gente a passeggio. Gente in costume da Tarasco a passeggio! Ci sono bambini e ragazzi con copricapi di piume e sonagliere alle caviglie, che danzano o si apprestano a farlo, mentre la banda accompagna strombazzando. Mentre passiamo iniziano a scoppiare botti e fuochi d'artificio, in un viavai di uccellini terrorizzati, gente che ride e sbevazza, bimbi eccitati dal paese dei balocchi.</div><div><br /></div><div>Così, attraversando il fiume Lerma, completamente ricoperto da un tappetto di ninfee , lasciamo il Michoacan ed entriamo in Jalisco.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgexZC6s8lmLcR5cqW9nk-DUu3sumpY_TjZHo9eN_ez4i41STlnKX5ToOzOSS4dGX_OXgA6Z7YOZCRBcvZXlaEr7USqJCe3FPG_KqhmgExO_lfny-_bH3dGDFt5WBVr4LJTmrznixdZI4w4Uk-4vvW0tCeKUKiifyOdFA5vIerl2une_oYpKAUnZs-SbCQ/s2883/20230811_162139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2883" data-original-width="2144" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgexZC6s8lmLcR5cqW9nk-DUu3sumpY_TjZHo9eN_ez4i41STlnKX5ToOzOSS4dGX_OXgA6Z7YOZCRBcvZXlaEr7USqJCe3FPG_KqhmgExO_lfny-_bH3dGDFt5WBVr4LJTmrznixdZI4w4Uk-4vvW0tCeKUKiifyOdFA5vIerl2une_oYpKAUnZs-SbCQ/s320/20230811_162139.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTbUIg6Fs6MVd2jKlRM40EgAdbDFijy8eEM9u_4GMpgMYgUJJ9IgeaapdkV189QX4csAUMyumPhYSIqVU9ZGY7rthyCN3Z9t7IgQIqTXyoYO5wDDnEQXn_5XagVfTkDS-Z-YKQv57jbE3agmXdwY7jVwXWDz7xwqh3HBB735tu3zB5Z880ZAvKgOKgt0/s1209/20230811_170115.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTbUIg6Fs6MVd2jKlRM40EgAdbDFijy8eEM9u_4GMpgMYgUJJ9IgeaapdkV189QX4csAUMyumPhYSIqVU9ZGY7rthyCN3Z9t7IgQIqTXyoYO5wDDnEQXn_5XagVfTkDS-Z-YKQv57jbE3agmXdwY7jVwXWDz7xwqh3HBB735tu3zB5Z880ZAvKgOKgt0/s320/20230811_170115.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNnQhI9UsGciSsvzHtwPfQpDcDxIhfXAsnW_qNUfRhB0d_Oj9F1U4ev9T1Prp_OfYJnhioA-4fFXfjpDXqI4AlsJIx5cj8ae6wB3VVrylA6Z1RrQwY-SUih8owcjMy3_fH5CkH5EoqPKDm1mYHHrID7PBsOjeykjMsWBcspcuxFusBRhu1u_iufQiuwE/s1209/20230811_170117.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNnQhI9UsGciSsvzHtwPfQpDcDxIhfXAsnW_qNUfRhB0d_Oj9F1U4ev9T1Prp_OfYJnhioA-4fFXfjpDXqI4AlsJIx5cj8ae6wB3VVrylA6Z1RrQwY-SUih8owcjMy3_fH5CkH5EoqPKDm1mYHHrID7PBsOjeykjMsWBcspcuxFusBRhu1u_iufQiuwE/s320/20230811_170117.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9RqpS8Yp8DDiY1Hk_H5hoaBPD_wgyDptrxpNQ-2HITKSBW0f8PVB1yMZXhF8e6B25-YrQsvCPU7tB7bbKOXcWZdmlVr7nLBHu6MyO5NyMXDPZHRPY6UHgAfKOJd7E8_jGUYDBRsnLqHl1aTvywCsKOuosJla2Ldo0Y6N5jYxx0_8A781pcH_P-4KD3g/s1209/20230811_170133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="1209" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9RqpS8Yp8DDiY1Hk_H5hoaBPD_wgyDptrxpNQ-2HITKSBW0f8PVB1yMZXhF8e6B25-YrQsvCPU7tB7bbKOXcWZdmlVr7nLBHu6MyO5NyMXDPZHRPY6UHgAfKOJd7E8_jGUYDBRsnLqHl1aTvywCsKOuosJla2Ldo0Y6N5jYxx0_8A781pcH_P-4KD3g/s320/20230811_170133.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il primo albergo cui volevamo puntare, scelto per la tamarraggine della facciata, è pieno. Allora ci dirigiamo a un altro, molto più sobrio, che dista solo qualche manciata di metri. Incredibilmente in queste città ci sono anche 6, 7 strutture ricettive, spesso grandi e con tante camere. Si vede che è frequente che nei lunghi viaggi in auto sia necessario far sosta quando cala la notte. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimg31rNQgfKCyhrs3F-XLXq1bgyL4olqeAyYPZruuVrUozyIan9lazbBdyonA9FKhxDUKKMgS8qS5oqBvPu3s6eUD47ZVdVL_2I_TBgorDEVmqJsG1PeYtb6uLORQ2nQH1SeJ-VkaOsrvx1kAxIYvS8oeMP5p0HpPOckcy43cxOAIr6wmelNCkKdQABk/s1209/20230811_170834.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimg31rNQgfKCyhrs3F-XLXq1bgyL4olqeAyYPZruuVrUozyIan9lazbBdyonA9FKhxDUKKMgS8qS5oqBvPu3s6eUD47ZVdVL_2I_TBgorDEVmqJsG1PeYtb6uLORQ2nQH1SeJ-VkaOsrvx1kAxIYvS8oeMP5p0HpPOckcy43cxOAIr6wmelNCkKdQABk/s320/20230811_170834.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La Posada San Josè ci ospita, dopo lunga attesa, perchè il paron è duro d'orecchi e in più sta guardando la tv a un volume da denuncia all'ultimo piano. Comunque, per 17 euro, ci dà una doppia con bagno in camera e acqua calda, e decorazioni interessanti alle pareti. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdft15vJnqJsWhTZ7ezLDcM40f0fJv2i0KWSzDbaSDNpT1PH2ZjnUDbNE-_ouoAZ2c1sp1cW5X6paoZWORQdPU1quigd264W3Fn_-FpEC24gD_sk6TcAzchlM8O5rxwA-8qOIxAvOO-sgs1OJEZrabPLGV3aJBtBsIwJRr2iT0tBQ_NXX5mGKm3PSJdfg/s1209/20230811_171225.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdft15vJnqJsWhTZ7ezLDcM40f0fJv2i0KWSzDbaSDNpT1PH2ZjnUDbNE-_ouoAZ2c1sp1cW5X6paoZWORQdPU1quigd264W3Fn_-FpEC24gD_sk6TcAzchlM8O5rxwA-8qOIxAvOO-sgs1OJEZrabPLGV3aJBtBsIwJRr2iT0tBQ_NXX5mGKm3PSJdfg/s320/20230811_171225.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBBrWPCIYDtcwckdrsmOKBJRQ2_V48wIb2wsoFU2fswHGDhX62PBa_xJRGjuMzdOB5zBSWYq3QwSAof_mdqrQAZDl1MlR5ejhrZDo_qCA_YaFKoN1PDj2qJ2cvCYgfVWEMNk7r3OKnESYkoFkYXeJt0v6173zENFfYpFZRHftCVA0_eSTDAv4UH5EzfE/s1209/20230811_171352.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBBrWPCIYDtcwckdrsmOKBJRQ2_V48wIb2wsoFU2fswHGDhX62PBa_xJRGjuMzdOB5zBSWYq3QwSAof_mdqrQAZDl1MlR5ejhrZDo_qCA_YaFKoN1PDj2qJ2cvCYgfVWEMNk7r3OKnESYkoFkYXeJt0v6173zENFfYpFZRHftCVA0_eSTDAv4UH5EzfE/s320/20230811_171352.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Usciamo a far spesa e anche oggi mi limito a qualche cracker di mais e un po' di miele. Soprattutto, ho sete. Ma non sto malaccio. A parte i pellegrinaggi in bagno, si intende. Ritiriamo contante, che non ci siamo fidati, probabilmente per eccesso di scrupolo, a prelevare nel trittico delle delizie dei cartelli i giorni scorsi, riducendoci a viaggiare con due monetine bucate. Faccio anche la ricarica del telefono con sim mexicana, e online, perchè ormai sono una pro e soprattutto ho bisogno di internet. Ma, nonostante le buone intenzioni (scrivere, pubblicare, star dietro ai social, prenotare l'albergo per domani e dopo, a Guadalajara), il sonno e la stanchezza prendono il sopravvento, e a mezzanotte già ronfiamo entrambi.</div><div><br /></div><div>12/8</div><div>La Barca-Guadalajara</div><div>118km</div><div><br /></div><div>Di nuovo è sera, parto dal fondo della tappa. Piove fortissimo, prima grandinava a chicchi grossi come noci. Ad ogni tuono i vetri delle finestre e le sottili pareti interne di questa vecchia casa tremano, come ci fosse il terremoto. La tettoria che copre il cortile interno, dove si trova cucina comune, sembrava dovesse crollare da un minuto all'altro. Piove copiosamente in camera, sul letto di Gigi, perchè i serramenti sono a dir poco vetusti e il vento getta secchiate di acqua contro il palazzo. Siamo in cento a Guadalajara, a cinque minuti da piedi dalla cattedrale. Domani avremo modo di visitare quanto più possibile, sempre che io mi riprenda. Fino a un'ora fa stavo MALISSIMO di nuovo, ma peggio dei giorni scorsi, e mi sentivo ormai chiamata al mondo dei più. Ora va meglio, dopo aver vomitato e avuto scariche di diarrea terrificanti e dolorosissime, da fuego nelle budella. Sopravviverò? E' possibile. Sto pagando lo sforzo di ieri e soprattutto oggi, che non andrebbe affrontato da ammalati? Seguro. Ne valeva la pena? Assolutamente.</div><div><br /></div><div>Ora, torniamo indietro a stamattina, quando stavo abbastanza bene e mi sentivo in forma al punto da immaginarmi pedalare quasi 120km di colline, con ingresso, sul finale, nella seconda città più popolosa del Messico, dopo la capitale, con annesso traffico delirante.</div><div>Siamo pronti a patire presto, ma alla fine usciamo tardi: io ho una minuscola scheggia metallica nella ruota posteriore, e, durante la notte, la gomma è andata a terra. Poi il cambio dà problemi, la catena cade, la bici pure, addosso a me, facendomi gran danno a un prosciuttino... Insomma, va così.</div><div>I primi 80km, dopo questa partenza difficoltosa, filano piuttosto lisci, tra campi di agave azzurrognola, che ormai sono lo sfondo imperante da giorni, mais, e paesini che assomigliano più a mercati a cielo aperto (tianguis) che a centri abitati. Una volta a Jamay ci portiamo in vista dell'immenso lago Chapala, il più grande del Messico, noto fin dai tempi antichi alle popolazioni preispaniche come bacino di acqua potabile. In verità se ne vedono solo scorci, tra case, villette e strutture turistiche che ricordano un po' quelle pensioni polverose e rose dal tempo sui nostri laghi alpini minori.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaa7o8pMNWOQgNIeSInMYUDRIMCwHZsNuXlbzIePMqj_ff7fc26p5z7yoemxKxMTCwpg5fNXaf5BDdOYSNF7g3gzc_Q_aH-rRlBNGI-UfTJE-WgKxmhDef2FAQI7aCcda5-EJjrSujUuHrzqoXj1_VHCmysvXzpkkSAqVZkxp2bsq2KM0MQtc39GHUcbI/s1209/20230812_092011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaa7o8pMNWOQgNIeSInMYUDRIMCwHZsNuXlbzIePMqj_ff7fc26p5z7yoemxKxMTCwpg5fNXaf5BDdOYSNF7g3gzc_Q_aH-rRlBNGI-UfTJE-WgKxmhDef2FAQI7aCcda5-EJjrSujUuHrzqoXj1_VHCmysvXzpkkSAqVZkxp2bsq2KM0MQtc39GHUcbI/s320/20230812_092011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheyRauxqjvEow0Y43ct4M1Ph_APhbLbkRPRqczozy-ERtuQe5Q567lSo3iDM99Lc_tj6x8KfmKONxLlwdK4goxkj1xi_W36KznsGfazGIcexSpbbvrYqGfnuf4rGzfkkSRf9kuQf_GDsZOGgrxQ6aZU6c2-uirWKs8jN4BD_7oalB14gzWE2Ku1UqUK3Y/s1172/20230812_092016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="1172" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheyRauxqjvEow0Y43ct4M1Ph_APhbLbkRPRqczozy-ERtuQe5Q567lSo3iDM99Lc_tj6x8KfmKONxLlwdK4goxkj1xi_W36KznsGfazGIcexSpbbvrYqGfnuf4rGzfkkSRf9kuQf_GDsZOGgrxQ6aZU6c2-uirWKs8jN4BD_7oalB14gzWE2Ku1UqUK3Y/s320/20230812_092016.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVc4AsldkSqoRXrvNUqm908Y3IhB894q8mPSm4eU6mxhIiY8WO0dYngA_gPLVnWy2Wt1ZBBR1z7aW0JC2SpKUfcUOB5rGoEUUItIoEdWPTM2CwqnEzbIgQ4RPii9fXdPihuXepogxUi8ZTgRYIS2ZUmpk8d3wZoWwmpu1Ed9IdFSLZu3pgWPYX-ZoLs-Q/s1209/20230812_092134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="668" data-original-width="1167" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd0PvUTz_QemMDBXRpPNbmxPW8Zwyvob4RBvYJDjsE2tPU1oueSZBJ1o-Zl_MzBP8W31T0WdXw-xg_QXxZa5ReRbMLq7P1tcG1l3oCVlfNRdYoycKQJ57QhfD1Ybk2dzdF9g0oAOvpVu5--OMukTSgb6LbggTnnKIJhOpiD8iS74pepY379l2qKoCS_SI/s320/20230812_100901.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8pvKWqkmfQhfUcN96ojTLUfMjYanh38QBUNhhHo5_VulQXkEu74OpSkonwBuCdWXdMNYaG3VjdG7I_YI583WDKT5knjXhqc08rXW8fkmrJ_PYyiBoRuNY9QAAe4NDFty30_1GtpBkO86TrdidP7jljsOMihb05OPczlI5z544T_AUCAXxRN_3z2AJenY/s1209/20230812_100920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8pvKWqkmfQhfUcN96ojTLUfMjYanh38QBUNhhHo5_VulQXkEu74OpSkonwBuCdWXdMNYaG3VjdG7I_YI583WDKT5knjXhqc08rXW8fkmrJ_PYyiBoRuNY9QAAe4NDFty30_1GtpBkO86TrdidP7jljsOMihb05OPczlI5z544T_AUCAXxRN_3z2AJenY/s320/20230812_100920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Senza nemmeno aver visto nella sua interezza il lago, che era uno dei focus della giornata (meh!), entriamo in Ocotlan, città turistica e sede dei servizi della zona. Da qui inizia un'area di collinette malefiche, che affrontiamo di gran lena perchè l'idea di avere ancora tanti km davanti a noi ci mette fretta, a la consapevolezza di dover entrare in una città enorme un po' d'ansia. Spingiamo e spingiamo, nel sole che ora è alto e scotta la pelle. Incrociamo un paio di biker in MTB, che vanno a pedalare sul lungolago, e qualche campesino che torna da lavoro, pedalando storto con il sombrero lago.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6wRo0hgU4kJXkljO_gkciLAVEH3LAI-8KG2n3mHuwXJ6oCimWTc60ByBxKL_SqmqL1jBG3amPo-RBgywJfhZ20n-mntfNzQ17QkxrY3v4BNqzhOlmBlA3jV_-B23dv4Tet_r0cz5XFgUAAsQ10oeyJuQENXFzDMADsvsyHneiqQUYBnP0Bst2w6YzY0/s1209/20230812_101617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6wRo0hgU4kJXkljO_gkciLAVEH3LAI-8KG2n3mHuwXJ6oCimWTc60ByBxKL_SqmqL1jBG3amPo-RBgywJfhZ20n-mntfNzQ17QkxrY3v4BNqzhOlmBlA3jV_-B23dv4Tet_r0cz5XFgUAAsQ10oeyJuQENXFzDMADsvsyHneiqQUYBnP0Bst2w6YzY0/s320/20230812_101617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihTTYBxH_zJVeh6zBAqJIgNic6I-CH4AXzhLG_215wiXufZToLdxd6o1HzR3ztPZxgfxNeSYNlaJuzNfXN8K_CgDdXc2uEfxcj-yW8W22UyLGShnEAc8_XaWi-tL2gHr3lfaPt8fOBT5DMsHWGOmKuLzvC7h2WoICHnu9OzVubBMldF6_kno0PWID_V0/s1209/20230812_104716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihTTYBxH_zJVeh6zBAqJIgNic6I-CH4AXzhLG_215wiXufZToLdxd6o1HzR3ztPZxgfxNeSYNlaJuzNfXN8K_CgDdXc2uEfxcj-yW8W22UyLGShnEAc8_XaWi-tL2gHr3lfaPt8fOBT5DMsHWGOmKuLzvC7h2WoICHnu9OzVubBMldF6_kno0PWID_V0/s320/20230812_104716.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho9vxCgBHr0PgJHCX0QrLKeP2Nmh_MeCgU1idTaUKxm-91pfKBjkiZk6MgxTe4mnaWyRekWqsoFK-_Fe1TyRIipji059sI6n3fdO694nBlReC58zoHeg2XP1yg9Aw95qAlzPwk-VSEL7tg9QYpVKamc-V5yiVd0lprOc0VLvCgznTgiE2xUL0zQhfCJMM/s1209/20230812_105818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy0c5wUeqws0YqKKqAbILiPwPdNEmaTJA-s8YLU8jpcRcH1ebHe7MsQwWNHdI3myiVleTT1qUUfl_WoYQsrFKiZQnNCoaIXCP4ml4ZIX66PLSxrJ4Zu-Ary5GNJqgDjBdfenPA1g5DuF8AC6qzhdKMdv37mCRk87T5_ME3JSHiTgO9N-XvyDeE7rs1d8Y/s320/20230812_120658.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YU80LDKdKNfH7XSk8X7tsrT3JWOEB1PwFrrarfFhYHTcCRc9cR5amo93gJS1SIqLh7uENVbcKiWy_CsKLpRC-7eLP2l_lyaIJZlAsV9ESKsUKyqED47VNd2GBawK0a-SPF3wsX89wNJNVa29VT6de_G7oadW_be8aTU3RHr_wXKk3q2-wye85QZnwnk/s1209/20230812_120707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YU80LDKdKNfH7XSk8X7tsrT3JWOEB1PwFrrarfFhYHTcCRc9cR5amo93gJS1SIqLh7uENVbcKiWy_CsKLpRC-7eLP2l_lyaIJZlAsV9ESKsUKyqED47VNd2GBawK0a-SPF3wsX89wNJNVa29VT6de_G7oadW_be8aTU3RHr_wXKk3q2-wye85QZnwnk/s320/20230812_120707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Andiamo, dritti, spediti, rotolando tra le alture, sempre più stravoltini, ma inarrestabili.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh-vr5ejG3cfufBIT3_qfDFaFJGpyRbXySMpiJMj9QOuzreSBCwxOYaj99GydSO5w2A8D2nN3ln04zoUnggu3nIiKBGxVFLYx3A1Wopr0ZfGvzx5-vqTS3hIenppYd1G4QgO9B79HIcW6qKYEc5FDvD3JhfbGeRp8_oQsXibpBdfVrr-NI2tKw5mysi44/s1209/20230812_121720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh-vr5ejG3cfufBIT3_qfDFaFJGpyRbXySMpiJMj9QOuzreSBCwxOYaj99GydSO5w2A8D2nN3ln04zoUnggu3nIiKBGxVFLYx3A1Wopr0ZfGvzx5-vqTS3hIenppYd1G4QgO9B79HIcW6qKYEc5FDvD3JhfbGeRp8_oQsXibpBdfVrr-NI2tKw5mysi44/s320/20230812_121720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFw2Ni0NntA5FNKsHQLge3-7Y-D36lbWO_qERp1zrgd3Hocj8dsEoeI2l7oMf_t1rjLxQ7QgPyigDNESKQlE-ImdFKluYQU4ALPQPoWV4l9NFGY5gM0_JFdmNEfD9SlGAA1k9071hecsjRBKLSBaTRMHc08ykIIUBceuqTucdnvNeIMbLdW86UDy7Qmo/s1209/20230812_122902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwFw2Ni0NntA5FNKsHQLge3-7Y-D36lbWO_qERp1zrgd3Hocj8dsEoeI2l7oMf_t1rjLxQ7QgPyigDNESKQlE-ImdFKluYQU4ALPQPoWV4l9NFGY5gM0_JFdmNEfD9SlGAA1k9071hecsjRBKLSBaTRMHc08ykIIUBceuqTucdnvNeIMbLdW86UDy7Qmo/s320/20230812_122902.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTBDckjvqRJ24pr0zrz1ynzhrqWw0Y7EQoqS5Rm0ttb0BY1ii7WMLwmIUwss7zXEznW6h7263Z1PpCeeAqJBuGiKsoaGWllHQlyxIQt9mgOw41PMt91gxThd4jrpz7sNrQriPsO-Nj5XjTSqoiQGf69FuLWf1TCmdlsuirmhlZY3UTGuXavoWpAJ0RqkU/s1209/20230812_124300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTBDckjvqRJ24pr0zrz1ynzhrqWw0Y7EQoqS5Rm0ttb0BY1ii7WMLwmIUwss7zXEznW6h7263Z1PpCeeAqJBuGiKsoaGWllHQlyxIQt9mgOw41PMt91gxThd4jrpz7sNrQriPsO-Nj5XjTSqoiQGf69FuLWf1TCmdlsuirmhlZY3UTGuXavoWpAJ0RqkU/s320/20230812_124300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A Santa Rosa veniamo fermati da un gruppo di operai e contadini in protesta. Sembra una manifestazione, uno sciopero, con cartelloni e lenzuola stese colme di scritte. Ma poi chiedono il soldino, agitando un bicchiere davanti ai finestrini delle auto che rallentano a causa dei dossi. Anzi, spesso fanno fare questo sporco lavoro ai bambini. Mah.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFYoK3nWuqw8FYkuQNIY0AHhuvy5td6Iy9MAMXvuKsiprUYwNyhzUHjC4osRHo-zMc0p7kbJxdviMVxUVlt4x2T-dXMhihOEn9h8I4hXZtR8HDJweSqFlGXMndEYdtHdOTohVHViIfyPjiwfvGckV7I9RzUONc5b93wf0Fsrotc6K8dUwwr0G_3Ydl_Zs/s1209/20230812_124811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFYoK3nWuqw8FYkuQNIY0AHhuvy5td6Iy9MAMXvuKsiprUYwNyhzUHjC4osRHo-zMc0p7kbJxdviMVxUVlt4x2T-dXMhihOEn9h8I4hXZtR8HDJweSqFlGXMndEYdtHdOTohVHViIfyPjiwfvGckV7I9RzUONc5b93wf0Fsrotc6K8dUwwr0G_3Ydl_Zs/s320/20230812_124811.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyogzAQWggjHHH5Hv-rMFMxm1IF672OzQeqoAv2p_PYHjgXwfwjbClueUPuwBkWmVMbMrfzpc2A9LXb5tu8VUxPHrd77SEdGbxeMMhF6j_jdXsCHDoz2cZ_dApw2WSv-8IQk5-X-etvBo2j4YKFz_tztEFkCj7w145s6aOUq7w_WkFgm0AXeMha9t3z9M/s1209/20230812_132102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyogzAQWggjHHH5Hv-rMFMxm1IF672OzQeqoAv2p_PYHjgXwfwjbClueUPuwBkWmVMbMrfzpc2A9LXb5tu8VUxPHrd77SEdGbxeMMhF6j_jdXsCHDoz2cZ_dApw2WSv-8IQk5-X-etvBo2j4YKFz_tztEFkCj7w145s6aOUq7w_WkFgm0AXeMha9t3z9M/s320/20230812_132102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando mancano solo 30km facciamo una sosta benzinaio-autogrill. Fatale. Io inizio a star male di nuovo, Gigi scopre l'ennesima foratura. Uno degli addetti, un omone corpulento in tuta grigia da metalmeccanico, ci approccia e con una vocina in falsetto degna di una fatina arcobaleno, ci augura buena suerte, mostrando la dentatura tutta modificata con inserti in metallo a forma di cuore. Un disastro annunciato. Ripartiamo un'ora dopo, senza nemmeno aver la certezza della prenotazione dell'hotel all'arrivo. Il primo che abbiamo scelto ci ha già paccati via whatsapp, pur avendo confermato la reserva su Booking (li ho mandati a fare cose in tutte le direzioni e con tutti gli orifizi che hanno, ma poi ho cancellato i messaggi, temendo ritorsioni e denunce. Che pavida volpe). Il secondo tace. La sfiga ci insegue.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlWOcNJvCGIfgmiMdG8sw9XO-ikL2bUaFg8tFLzEVhzfGOaOkMG4OBC6JUzbLxsTII0bmYC2ip0xOdSidimRU_KGe95yTW7lZ9GJgFcRbi5wPmeR3ZJhxlGrAy-gY2f0cviSrQr_4Ch4FnFjHnU0v6U_XB8gBB_Q3u8FjDUFDslOp28jriRnmIzlkgw8/s1209/20230812_134842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlWOcNJvCGIfgmiMdG8sw9XO-ikL2bUaFg8tFLzEVhzfGOaOkMG4OBC6JUzbLxsTII0bmYC2ip0xOdSidimRU_KGe95yTW7lZ9GJgFcRbi5wPmeR3ZJhxlGrAy-gY2f0cviSrQr_4Ch4FnFjHnU0v6U_XB8gBB_Q3u8FjDUFDslOp28jriRnmIzlkgw8/s320/20230812_134842.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gli ultimi 30km sono il delirio. Le strade diventano arterie a 4+4 corsie, con svincoli trafficatissimi e pullman e mezzi pesanti che fanno manovre indicibili, passandoci a tutta velocità a pochi centimetri. Il resto del brivido è dato da dossi, buche, motorini casual che vanno tranquillamente contromano e botti e sclacsonate randomici. Rischiamo grosso in un paio di occasioni, quando un tir con due rimorchi non ci vede (spero) e quasi ci tira sotto. Idem accade poi con un autobus scassone che perde bulloni a ogni dissuasore. In compenso tanti ci salutano con la manina dal finestrino o ci incitano "Dale dale italianos!".</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6jfB_ODVlnXWgzyFct1t97bqOSwE9eYDI0CROg4yFA5O38uQIzbQ6Ku8gGuO131cKY-T0bZGkcqEIT_Xe0BnqzyNXGL6vm_0X9TWnyH8kE2QgjkpBChe2yXXcmZ37Qv73JxWYU51hrnrWR9idPC2gSgsrX0WqsRU-7KsrqE71kb-n48jAlauo_rVlJI/s1112/20230812_154848(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="1112" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6jfB_ODVlnXWgzyFct1t97bqOSwE9eYDI0CROg4yFA5O38uQIzbQ6Ku8gGuO131cKY-T0bZGkcqEIT_Xe0BnqzyNXGL6vm_0X9TWnyH8kE2QgjkpBChe2yXXcmZ37Qv73JxWYU51hrnrWR9idPC2gSgsrX0WqsRU-7KsrqE71kb-n48jAlauo_rVlJI/s320/20230812_154848(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxHjOiCLGvCAGZppun3T6tV_GR1UBMhcHLdtNE4OrMMOTLnsGd3g5DAeq2ajwW9R_dJFtGYl7nams7Xv55XAF0nB6gfToGXP5oEkurEZQQWw5UmhnXsAzvQsaTuD0vunUX7gasy4l7g1hDeqxJLTfMDG0PYY3zuV3-inD6E8lN_1dwxZBT_fIF2mZxzQ/s1209/20230812_154848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcxHjOiCLGvCAGZppun3T6tV_GR1UBMhcHLdtNE4OrMMOTLnsGd3g5DAeq2ajwW9R_dJFtGYl7nams7Xv55XAF0nB6gfToGXP5oEkurEZQQWw5UmhnXsAzvQsaTuD0vunUX7gasy4l7g1hDeqxJLTfMDG0PYY3zuV3-inD6E8lN_1dwxZBT_fIF2mZxzQ/s320/20230812_154848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nAgxlMS9ZiQXfbvoCj3yu8cOQ8NQdRqG9JTcaLgkSZL2Cso8rnJ1Vnf7RzV0hweWd-qsQaHL5PJbe9nhV0l_XvCE-G983w1Kk4bWrZbWjRlvMiWj6uJ-iaEcIM8N6b05X1B30omixe7B4Mjhcb_JOz2qQdAg5WMdU8ubSYUPcBV5GSnmq0ALF2x3feY/s1209/20230812_160552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nAgxlMS9ZiQXfbvoCj3yu8cOQ8NQdRqG9JTcaLgkSZL2Cso8rnJ1Vnf7RzV0hweWd-qsQaHL5PJbe9nhV0l_XvCE-G983w1Kk4bWrZbWjRlvMiWj6uJ-iaEcIM8N6b05X1B30omixe7B4Mjhcb_JOz2qQdAg5WMdU8ubSYUPcBV5GSnmq0ALF2x3feY/s320/20230812_160552.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando siamo quasi in centro, e già pregusto la tranquillità della stanza e la privacy di un bagno pulito, accade l'imprevisto numero X (ho perso il conto, ormai). Fermi a un semaforo, veniamo approcciati da Angel, cicloamatore che, a dir suo, fa tutto in bici: lavoro, spesa, vacanze, commissioni, tutto! E una volta è anche andato sulla costa pedalando quasi 300km in un solo giorno. Che forte! Si offre (ci impone) di accompagnarci in centro. Gigi ha la pessima idea di chiedergli anche se conosca dei meccanici dove acquistare camere d'aria (noi ne consumiamo e rattoppiamo come fossero pane). Certo che ne conosce, ci accompagna! Fulmino Gigi, io ho bisogno di riposare, non di fare il tour della città. Pace. Seguiamo Angel, che si lamenta di quanto poco gli automobilisti rispettino i ciclisti, e gli confermo che tutto il mondo è paese e in Italia e a Milano si può dir lo stesso. Lui è molto attento a pedalare in corsie sicure, ciclabili o ciclopedonali, e ci aspetta quando restiamo indietro. Intanto parla, parla, parla... E solo io rispondo, visto che Gigi si è sfilato dai giochi con il suo solito no hablo espanol.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMJDi2l1p9YoCwiv6P2NB7YKxdodQe6JVpUPVgC8BfAcVKJKYWiipqLIsRfNR-mqVZ8Q4kVHyuD7A491EKH_ZQOvPPJdes7UPHQL3ySY-WmCPPP0lTwJxwKmJuwTfvRWTecqLHDu94xBUNy_5QswwTc_zJO5Uzw2irKB5OqPzb4XjRtqtHvS9iC29oz1Q/s1209/20230812_163643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMJDi2l1p9YoCwiv6P2NB7YKxdodQe6JVpUPVgC8BfAcVKJKYWiipqLIsRfNR-mqVZ8Q4kVHyuD7A491EKH_ZQOvPPJdes7UPHQL3ySY-WmCPPP0lTwJxwKmJuwTfvRWTecqLHDu94xBUNy_5QswwTc_zJO5Uzw2irKB5OqPzb4XjRtqtHvS9iC29oz1Q/s320/20230812_163643.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RX4tOsI3MOX8fny3cw-2ok108F9tCukhm3Pw9ZKQ-zSzJQft6OK3iq-KFpqVymX2gj_Pt6l_RGs_Z4FOzuuUZGNkSTHya4npra_i5eJLRrh6jU29Mgj_j9zN3GfEx79Vqm9azQxB399R3vXv8iEAl5dDU53JMei3PVLwbu0D0NWLuqlrCkDM6B5Aj4U/s1209/20230812_163652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RX4tOsI3MOX8fny3cw-2ok108F9tCukhm3Pw9ZKQ-zSzJQft6OK3iq-KFpqVymX2gj_Pt6l_RGs_Z4FOzuuUZGNkSTHya4npra_i5eJLRrh6jU29Mgj_j9zN3GfEx79Vqm9azQxB399R3vXv8iEAl5dDU53JMei3PVLwbu0D0NWLuqlrCkDM6B5Aj4U/s320/20230812_163652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il primo negozio non ha camere d'aria della nostra misura, allora andiamo in un altro, ancora più lontano. E' una casa privata, un cortile, dove ciacolano quattro signore anzianotte. Hanno un box pieno di bici usate, smontate, arrugginite, e un discreto deposito di materiale nuovo. Mentre io ammiro i loro gatitos e ascolto come una sciura avesse il nonno italiano, Gigi si fa bellamente truffare sia con i prezzi sia con il resto mal dato, ma compra quattro camere con valvola francese ed è contento così.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvAa2LMJslTf9h_fnDv_mfSIoCK8CubM7E-gn6P6T4LqTfFDdDV7rZMTgEPhXXzRS3A2NYe4iFrb7hi63AAbg8AG8u64OSt_BBtSAt_LFzH6EtlnwPrzuNAJpDpUl7bGv39YXJy3Kn-RbM9NlkNiu6-PjcuxzcNAUQTcuJTcJDRG-vyHerCMNK-vvSVc/s1209/20230812_164001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixvAa2LMJslTf9h_fnDv_mfSIoCK8CubM7E-gn6P6T4LqTfFDdDV7rZMTgEPhXXzRS3A2NYe4iFrb7hi63AAbg8AG8u64OSt_BBtSAt_LFzH6EtlnwPrzuNAJpDpUl7bGv39YXJy3Kn-RbM9NlkNiu6-PjcuxzcNAUQTcuJTcJDRG-vyHerCMNK-vvSVc/s320/20230812_164001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWu-lejAjtYHIHSXJGLI08n4L-zbjFON2BY7PM-0rU5d70r9CWytuSdqkv6-WK9JCqhyVpcl-_fjMalgW7uYPAGNErAdUcjLe6HwinUmw4ebUz56TLIfQ7SojFJ_Hx3Udb__D8fgR6QQu5dR8jWoImdIzzMoGHfpTyTd892Lp9ttaMy_ni8w90SFJhvDs/s1209/20230812_164004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWu-lejAjtYHIHSXJGLI08n4L-zbjFON2BY7PM-0rU5d70r9CWytuSdqkv6-WK9JCqhyVpcl-_fjMalgW7uYPAGNErAdUcjLe6HwinUmw4ebUz56TLIfQ7SojFJ_Hx3Udb__D8fgR6QQu5dR8jWoImdIzzMoGHfpTyTd892Lp9ttaMy_ni8w90SFJhvDs/s320/20230812_164004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8aC1d1br-s5-UxQLjp9yz5PX8C-jQOgTIeEE50zwcSyNZUkBn2Kk0D0WUxj3BUmKmbbIShQHEL4kOSlHGfT9-4MeycZHzw9aelexdbw9gEIl4BuD7suv_iA0QdGfWlmu0EY-8KY0ZhVnH5Z47LEQdWx9Sjx2M5qaR58W6L7yvYG2-iDI-hHVmH5C33sM/s1209/20230812_164035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8aC1d1br-s5-UxQLjp9yz5PX8C-jQOgTIeEE50zwcSyNZUkBn2Kk0D0WUxj3BUmKmbbIShQHEL4kOSlHGfT9-4MeycZHzw9aelexdbw9gEIl4BuD7suv_iA0QdGfWlmu0EY-8KY0ZhVnH5Z47LEQdWx9Sjx2M5qaR58W6L7yvYG2-iDI-hHVmH5C33sM/s320/20230812_164035.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si riparte, finalmente, alla volta dell'albergo. Angel ci accompagna fino alla porta, facendosi spiegare ogni tre curve la strada, che ho io sul navigatore. Anche meno, Angel. Ma grazie. Poi ci saluta e noi siamo pronti a fare check in... Non fosse che la receptionist, con aria beffarda, dice: "Prenotazione su Booking? Neanche le guardiamo! Siamo pieni, arrivederci". Anche a lei rispondo in modo poco gentile, e mi prende lo sconforto. Due strutture su due ci hanno paccati. Ora siamo in centro e restano gli ostelli e i luxury. Iniziamo a girare via per via, affacciandoci ad ogni albergo nel nostro range. Tutti stracolmi. Ellamadonna! Mi sento veramente come la famosa coppia che non trova alloggia in quel di Betlemme. Intanto maledico ogni decisione storta, dal perdere tempo con Angel a non aver prenotato i giorni scorsi, dall'aver mangiato le gorditas maledette all'aver indugiato nelle soste. Alla fine, dopo aver passato in rassegna una decina di hotel, veniamo accolti nel più marcio degli ostelli, dove albergano solo studenti squattrinati e lavoratori stagionali. Però è economico, in pieno centro, e ha posto. ahimè il bagno è in comune, e nelle mie condizioni mi spiace per gli altri ospiti. L'omino della reception, che non molla il mocio nemmeno un istante, ci racconta di aver vissuto in Italia dieci anni, precisamente a Milano, e ha visitato Firenze, che confonde con Venezia. Poi ha salutato il Bel Paese e se ne è tornato qui, con il suo mocio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_sCuYeTfA21NZYR52Z_A07nooX3jNGgsaROMV9reFZvZu9dhpgXNDhl-mAcb9QuRVZdfZs1lA_wC-S_OqniaK9Jmh2GC6H27pCUobTQzsVWNsQKfu1m-iv7qZdeVC7nhISadIRZf0-WlqujMitMG6GkIXHAhiJ_XiPOX1wXfrr-n996DAcuV9hafoYZM/s979/20230812_184329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_sCuYeTfA21NZYR52Z_A07nooX3jNGgsaROMV9reFZvZu9dhpgXNDhl-mAcb9QuRVZdfZs1lA_wC-S_OqniaK9Jmh2GC6H27pCUobTQzsVWNsQKfu1m-iv7qZdeVC7nhISadIRZf0-WlqujMitMG6GkIXHAhiJ_XiPOX1wXfrr-n996DAcuV9hafoYZM/s320/20230812_184329.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaARm5SVkoCw7s9EeSLietmdxaJU3aBkZevjw0XxGnMvj42-2yjgl8Pz9P-8bjrCOL65ZrUUQFirGiHwENq144wzFCOgFh8-3ilJiCXkHOIu_KKf2B0YRwygZVU2CN6vPZcMgYIq1pJpKnwlw0miHcolWQ2kd66NtMUS0e_QZiSDAbWNv-E2HXbLPrbI/s979/20230812_205951.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaARm5SVkoCw7s9EeSLietmdxaJU3aBkZevjw0XxGnMvj42-2yjgl8Pz9P-8bjrCOL65ZrUUQFirGiHwENq144wzFCOgFh8-3ilJiCXkHOIu_KKf2B0YRwygZVU2CN6vPZcMgYIq1pJpKnwlw0miHcolWQ2kd66NtMUS0e_QZiSDAbWNv-E2HXbLPrbI/s320/20230812_205951.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando finalmente prendiamo possesso della camera, io collasso sul divano, con la pancia in fiamme. Mi addormento di sasso, per svegliarmi ancora più storta e dolorante. Inizia una via crucis tra bagno, letto, bagno e divano. Fatico a respirare tanto soffro, con tachicardia e sensazione di svenimento frequente. Nonostante ciò, mi faccio forza e vado con Gigi a comprare qualcosa da mangiare. Se sto così male è anche perchè ho pedalato con ben poco cibo in corpo. I 400m andata e ritorno al super sono una pena, perchè io crollo ad ogni passo, Gigi si perde, devo tornare indietro a cercarlo, poi non trova le chiavi... E' impanicato a vedermi così. Mi faccio un padellino di riso bollito e mi sforzo di mangiarlo. Mezz'ora dopo finisce nel wc, passando in buona parte per il naso. Ma dopo questo show, mi riprendo. E ora sono quasi in forma!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZbhPP9-kvNdSu_CyIcntIu6Ho58cbxYlQAzFMeRuWaIwQu8o8R0yoYHdnZ0IqsJoo-9qLEe_aB08vJuHrl_Z2PLpX6_cXUHxJ3NwG3_cETdVEQOLwcjfpC7PQ6I3fxRwwJ3yHuITbn3L5P8Zvleh04gNU-85kBQG__S9_EyFGw-KswHJo06dQExTB6o/s1209/20230812_205958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZbhPP9-kvNdSu_CyIcntIu6Ho58cbxYlQAzFMeRuWaIwQu8o8R0yoYHdnZ0IqsJoo-9qLEe_aB08vJuHrl_Z2PLpX6_cXUHxJ3NwG3_cETdVEQOLwcjfpC7PQ6I3fxRwwJ3yHuITbn3L5P8Zvleh04gNU-85kBQG__S9_EyFGw-KswHJo06dQExTB6o/s320/20230812_205958.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> Domani, come da tabella di marcia, stiamo fermi qui a Guadalajara. Visita turistica e riposo sono i propositi. Abbiamo già abbozzato le tappe da qui a Mazatlan, 6 giorni per poco meno di 600km, con le ultime montagnette e poi il ritorno alla costa pacifica. Domani prenoterò il biglietto per il traghetto che ci porterà in Baja California, ultima meta del nostro grandioso viaggio messicano! E lì saranno mare e deserto, una combinazione spettacolare!<br /><div><br /></div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-81673713664247373222023-08-09T08:22:00.002+02:002023-08-09T08:31:17.572+02:0046-48. Scalare in bici il vulcano Popocatépetl, visitare la Casa Azul di Frida Kahlo e Teotihuacan in tre giorni? Si può fare!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0Ahv8Fz4zeGUIGHh-cYh_Evc7TXyCX-d8FvxgH2P3ZUX76XoDNeBcNXaf_vZG2CmnhPQZyuNv1ndbUFJ60nAbFPD8ms4xgfTXjICjojzHU94v0ko9DaZj0yNzf7QA0rciwmREFgC246AnQ1b21EqRCx10-6Qt6J9uUY73ZFz1qKTIfDT2xPhX1GB8d4/s1210/20230807_150427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0Ahv8Fz4zeGUIGHh-cYh_Evc7TXyCX-d8FvxgH2P3ZUX76XoDNeBcNXaf_vZG2CmnhPQZyuNv1ndbUFJ60nAbFPD8ms4xgfTXjICjojzHU94v0ko9DaZj0yNzf7QA0rciwmREFgC246AnQ1b21EqRCx10-6Qt6J9uUY73ZFz1qKTIfDT2xPhX1GB8d4/w640-h296/20230807_150427.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0GNouECx9uKGucg8rwwLI4cMh2I0h_LnsbevIxFcMqzL0QW1tIWk-zxlnqg5FG8UeknWEDUha_zYk_PEfM33xm9U6S6QFD_RHKEu-rp78StJCMnS_VG4M1Nx80vByQSRHigMQYxUtWZQ6q00kRshAH9FBKQnmZZ9bRdDnuFZXS_9zrQTA3h5umxtPZE/s1209/20230807_144854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0GNouECx9uKGucg8rwwLI4cMh2I0h_LnsbevIxFcMqzL0QW1tIWk-zxlnqg5FG8UeknWEDUha_zYk_PEfM33xm9U6S6QFD_RHKEu-rp78StJCMnS_VG4M1Nx80vByQSRHigMQYxUtWZQ6q00kRshAH9FBKQnmZZ9bRdDnuFZXS_9zrQTA3h5umxtPZE/w640-h480/20230807_144854.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAG-kiFp8LKzMGahRM043i32wc4McHHSpeswrXEc-0hMM5oNtGvqsTScS4kJNfR8Og_wU0YRzzSzfM_S05eecyTPtIauf1Q0NyXivqTkWZkbHuSm8BfR8LgPDousuJfxUpFDPkw8mYuiKnf48VqarjQWPk60XkU-xPaLGhNAqHtz4eyT-iLSkQTFzYVKk/s1209/20230806_124249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAG-kiFp8LKzMGahRM043i32wc4McHHSpeswrXEc-0hMM5oNtGvqsTScS4kJNfR8Og_wU0YRzzSzfM_S05eecyTPtIauf1Q0NyXivqTkWZkbHuSm8BfR8LgPDousuJfxUpFDPkw8mYuiKnf48VqarjQWPk60XkU-xPaLGhNAqHtz4eyT-iLSkQTFzYVKk/w640-h480/20230806_124249.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlxRGmv5YuAlCFxwhv6mUTIvRJ4oucyuVSoiPdgr1hcZb1ykRbFcYP5N_ru8S4g3roYHyIOEXXSLDGfW-UU9odXAF1mAafaJmU_hEWB0tYKyCkU3xc-EgmuZ5Un0jt8UXg-Qab72dzQPff3_zDnRA9Go0mD_1hKUrvP74CvOGK_Ssy0vhaB565EvbLewM/s1209/20230806_124914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlxRGmv5YuAlCFxwhv6mUTIvRJ4oucyuVSoiPdgr1hcZb1ykRbFcYP5N_ru8S4g3roYHyIOEXXSLDGfW-UU9odXAF1mAafaJmU_hEWB0tYKyCkU3xc-EgmuZ5Un0jt8UXg-Qab72dzQPff3_zDnRA9Go0mD_1hKUrvP74CvOGK_Ssy0vhaB565EvbLewM/w640-h480/20230806_124914.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNe7d57l3pg-1Rd2IPre7OFFsw9ob7XpJSBm2bqizo3T2OJsVC8rObAd6DRaHM3A7J_yc3Xz40A0XNdEAb9eNB89s1iHF3n-NWdqlbw7MGmIm7It4Mj5NGfLtr1G18eBzJIqKMSsO7wEVqmvWQ6_RON3a9I6hOKrUfFkARaM3B7BuFFTlCjsJaIPNQpmY/s1209/20230806_150856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNe7d57l3pg-1Rd2IPre7OFFsw9ob7XpJSBm2bqizo3T2OJsVC8rObAd6DRaHM3A7J_yc3Xz40A0XNdEAb9eNB89s1iHF3n-NWdqlbw7MGmIm7It4Mj5NGfLtr1G18eBzJIqKMSsO7wEVqmvWQ6_RON3a9I6hOKrUfFkARaM3B7BuFFTlCjsJaIPNQpmY/w640-h480/20230806_150856.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdrRje4JJ8P36aFQNKQYe-ZJ-g7jy2sOrRUASfGtx55pP1W4SEJBuuvNr7mye3sFtDhvihMyQpI5jQKsbV0U9blC12TT2SlSu5nG5lfaIqfv-mjAxICrDASuWI77nmUmFxNVw0LOgDhfVijnlu-2SWbfA3Nc3pYy7BCucpTSiX-CV2opC6ziM5ts5I2YA/s1209/20230806_155540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdrRje4JJ8P36aFQNKQYe-ZJ-g7jy2sOrRUASfGtx55pP1W4SEJBuuvNr7mye3sFtDhvihMyQpI5jQKsbV0U9blC12TT2SlSu5nG5lfaIqfv-mjAxICrDASuWI77nmUmFxNVw0LOgDhfVijnlu-2SWbfA3Nc3pYy7BCucpTSiX-CV2opC6ziM5ts5I2YA/w640-h480/20230806_155540.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrQ22eY3Upvr_rLt_WBx3mztffrSkGCYYcPvSu8feKeinm9jPpsmQGHayM7FkITMxMD7jPk9ct-f2KKF28ffkfJOelSR2l37mEFEr123TVgceYri7yD6jN36NL0LWuepWrGgvk0Z50Kh3TxLQW88nsGyZRy437iSxRixr9bpEC93L8pnjHUgVG4kRBjA/s1209/20230808_121242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrQ22eY3Upvr_rLt_WBx3mztffrSkGCYYcPvSu8feKeinm9jPpsmQGHayM7FkITMxMD7jPk9ct-f2KKF28ffkfJOelSR2l37mEFEr123TVgceYri7yD6jN36NL0LWuepWrGgvk0Z50Kh3TxLQW88nsGyZRy437iSxRixr9bpEC93L8pnjHUgVG4kRBjA/w640-h480/20230808_121242.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div>6/8<div>anello Città del Messico-Teotihuacan</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Nel secondo giorno di sosta a Città del Messico abbiamo deciso di lasciare la metropoli per recarci al sito archeologico forse più impressionante dell'intero paese: Teotihuacan. Questo complesso si trova a 50km dalla capitale ed è facilmente raggiungibile con i mezzi pubblici, davvero molto efficienti e intuitivi da utilizzare, evitando così i tour privati; questi, oltre a essere più onerosi (anche se molto economici per i nostri parametri: 8 ore tutto incluso si aggirano sui 30 euro) sottraggono tempo al sito archeologico in favore di degustazione di alcolici e negozi nei quali fare acquisti. Quindi oggi siamo pronti a imparare a usare la metropolitana di Città del Messico, una ragnatela con 21 linee che si intrecciano ai mezzi di superficie, che corrono a più livelli sulle strade e sopra di esse. Gigi è molto inquieto e teme borseggi, ma questa situazione mi pare più probabile e a Milano. Qui tutto è tranquillo, nonostante le folle che si spostano nei principali snodi, e, pur con le antenne sempre dritte, riusciamo a goderci il tragitto senza ansie.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOrYzU4nB0EsQw2YxMGl3ZQH3hZS1apjbmh0nzAykU1thHt3zNruov4brMME7DhHgAE-xE8bcxvZgQRFQGPF7SS5nu7F0UDDa1DIOT9Q0V20ILA5YQ55FERwaDO75KJclShYI_dHsusxM-6UDDyKOabocuQbeqi7ElyrqMbciTowlbxSxJVHXnaTvQQzw/s1209/20230806_094118.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOrYzU4nB0EsQw2YxMGl3ZQH3hZS1apjbmh0nzAykU1thHt3zNruov4brMME7DhHgAE-xE8bcxvZgQRFQGPF7SS5nu7F0UDDa1DIOT9Q0V20ILA5YQ55FERwaDO75KJclShYI_dHsusxM-6UDDyKOabocuQbeqi7ElyrqMbciTowlbxSxJVHXnaTvQQzw/s320/20230806_094118.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_R1CJxeviS5vAnfE2ZVd2wYVnWdi3AFzLOadXw1cRNr9p9Bui0cQ4LqQwhontnR0eKHi2G-lRXFvx4jMEjHgllqefDj3nWuRhwE_OH0oiOtA23OZmjcVZ_5VfNFDv27-GidGCzIUm94MmBiF21NIUQtniW1grnynjU0YaMgSwM6KRvl7uonPnZNfzfHI/s1209/20230806_095823.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_R1CJxeviS5vAnfE2ZVd2wYVnWdi3AFzLOadXw1cRNr9p9Bui0cQ4LqQwhontnR0eKHi2G-lRXFvx4jMEjHgllqefDj3nWuRhwE_OH0oiOtA23OZmjcVZ_5VfNFDv27-GidGCzIUm94MmBiF21NIUQtniW1grnynjU0YaMgSwM6KRvl7uonPnZNfzfHI/s320/20230806_095823.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlYqNlVcEvUV9O2zUWeCCTsEKFsU9nvOWpmIY8cYWbzkHK0sdd_Q_CU6y9yFYEJ0mVN_CJp3aYzCDSUGm052X2vt6-5G8IEsw20QBcVP4T04S9zIfnXDtbJoMmChm09iY3DFwLEuRUYit1Q_5RQ87K8kMY3tIE5DHWgAhi3oAWTmTqdeUDJa6rge6Oh8/s1209/20230806_100457.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwlYqNlVcEvUV9O2zUWeCCTsEKFsU9nvOWpmIY8cYWbzkHK0sdd_Q_CU6y9yFYEJ0mVN_CJp3aYzCDSUGm052X2vt6-5G8IEsw20QBcVP4T04S9zIfnXDtbJoMmChm09iY3DFwLEuRUYit1Q_5RQ87K8kMY3tIE5DHWgAhi3oAWTmTqdeUDJa6rge6Oh8/s320/20230806_100457.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">molte stazioni sono impreziosite da mostre, murales d'autore e pannelli informativi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr2utpdetCCWEHbljDCCHP6QoXR5dOrsHGWO2e2yCE0NPYw0HDdrj4gX63edCrZZUZg7BitCWgADjaVtH3GwcEN3FxoRmqGe7qaySqk6kmunJr9HpAQNZqNQnMC_UUL2ecTNxaIzX8aY2BBwwmbdf2XRC5sqnzhGOD02G0IqlabibOkM9jyA34T9oCj-U/s1209/20230806_100822.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr2utpdetCCWEHbljDCCHP6QoXR5dOrsHGWO2e2yCE0NPYw0HDdrj4gX63edCrZZUZg7BitCWgADjaVtH3GwcEN3FxoRmqGe7qaySqk6kmunJr9HpAQNZqNQnMC_UUL2ecTNxaIzX8aY2BBwwmbdf2XRC5sqnzhGOD02G0IqlabibOkM9jyA34T9oCj-U/s320/20230806_100822.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i venditori di chicharrones, la pelle fritta del maiale, si preparano ad entrare in scena</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Con tre cambi di linea raggiungiamo il terminal degli autobus settentrionale, da dove partono i bus diretti al sito archeologico di Teotihuacan. In stazione c'è il solito viavai di umanità varia, nel profumo di cibi di ogni genere e nel generalizzato casino colorato messicano. Con l'aiuto di una gentile bigliettaia recuperiamo la nostra taquilla e, cinque minuti dopo, parte l'autobus stipato di local che vanno a messa al Santuario della Virgen de Guadalupe o a visitare las piramides. Oggi è domenica e per loro l'ingresso è gratuito. Il biglietto della metro costa 5 pesos, quello del bus 120 andata e ritorno, l'ingresso al sito e al museo 90. Con 220 pesos (11 euro) si svolta la giornata. Avanza qualcosa per comprarsi un churro dagli ambulanti che, ad ogni fermata, saltano sul bus prima ancora che si fermi e ne scendono poi al volo mentre riparte.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCFlTp1TYB-zRn56Y7EC2FoX7V-GlInL_JXrbD0Fq-ztXZjbHgZdqJ_VjwW6aqmsolR4hDQAinxHHZHb1icxndvdM6GfhEBivYN7XnkYapyDvQPe13NW9ZnDjluXLHNetMb2o0C7BbkC34Yj6pOgYQO8sRqzMhTeUeyPgp8Rlecg_LINpLmH7vYqFCBU/s1209/20230806_112202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGCFlTp1TYB-zRn56Y7EC2FoX7V-GlInL_JXrbD0Fq-ztXZjbHgZdqJ_VjwW6aqmsolR4hDQAinxHHZHb1icxndvdM6GfhEBivYN7XnkYapyDvQPe13NW9ZnDjluXLHNetMb2o0C7BbkC34Yj6pOgYQO8sRqzMhTeUeyPgp8Rlecg_LINpLmH7vYqFCBU/s320/20230806_112202.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il viaggio dura circa un'ora. Quando arriviamo, veniamo scaricati in un delirio di bancarelle, mercatini, venditori di qualsiasi genere di alimento. Qui, in particolare, ci sono quelli che offrono manufatti in ossidiana, fischietti che simulano il ruggito del leopardo, archi e frecce giocattolo e fichi d'India già sbucciati in sacchetto, conditi con salsa piccante. La combo peperoncino e frutta è un must, da queste parti. Mango, ananas, melone, papaya, persino i cetrioli tagliati in macedonia sono serviti con salsa o polvere piccante.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpeFwy6lf5MFjucSxhk9LXgnJUBCMhTmV-Av5OlIi-7ufbm3F0g_tyJwa6fK__rjzi2gV2c2cGX4lSwajcUNDHcXRevHOlcaLFMC8iuKfjKuBp63pYCT2yqIskLFQSwiShh11y930jvX0bWJACVqAQ-pZQ88wMFfqmXE4bGTbiN6ZQIEfmIM_9uZQ7UFg/s1209/20230806_113052.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpeFwy6lf5MFjucSxhk9LXgnJUBCMhTmV-Av5OlIi-7ufbm3F0g_tyJwa6fK__rjzi2gV2c2cGX4lSwajcUNDHcXRevHOlcaLFMC8iuKfjKuBp63pYCT2yqIskLFQSwiShh11y930jvX0bWJACVqAQ-pZQ88wMFfqmXE4bGTbiN6ZQIEfmIM_9uZQ7UFg/s320/20230806_113052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyLBDFMqlwGTMgVfzu2wBoU-RIZSVHV9pNdgSyGrlHBOK2Lf10ZyeG5_GLH2tmCoYCtDV7mBOqyXTlY3UpGN9ZueK2ylPIBQ6eOnb4U_2r3LTscZ8z-cp9ymcBxprtXhTIxFyWM3j-9ioDhywvW8Mrfap7bU4VGZ93T5R6zK_jfIryov69yN9Vmi2uKA/s1209/20230806_113247.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyLBDFMqlwGTMgVfzu2wBoU-RIZSVHV9pNdgSyGrlHBOK2Lf10ZyeG5_GLH2tmCoYCtDV7mBOqyXTlY3UpGN9ZueK2ylPIBQ6eOnb4U_2r3LTscZ8z-cp9ymcBxprtXhTIxFyWM3j-9ioDhywvW8Mrfap7bU4VGZ93T5R6zK_jfIryov69yN9Vmi2uKA/s320/20230806_113247.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Riusciamo a schivare banchi, banchetti e bancarelle e a risalire la fiumana di gente che entra al sito (e poi, per fortuna, un po' si disperde, essendo l'area degli scavi vastissima). Subito ci compare davanti, in tutta la sua maestosa imponenza, la Piramide del Sole.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5s_AbOCjzYwUZW85XJBdOTcEpWnUiaOWO9wC2Cwj0FPETaB3qs9E-PBJ_8wFO8MmO8KSHuYug-xOPJeDjMK6_jzEwCwWdCA870BGv4NP8gs9j9nPcKbw25WCZoePLAGsjYGftMBeSsOuvO407odpX6nnMl67KitKEe4r0zViOVl0BzE-mWHhAltoTK3Y/s1209/20230806_115232.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5s_AbOCjzYwUZW85XJBdOTcEpWnUiaOWO9wC2Cwj0FPETaB3qs9E-PBJ_8wFO8MmO8KSHuYug-xOPJeDjMK6_jzEwCwWdCA870BGv4NP8gs9j9nPcKbw25WCZoePLAGsjYGftMBeSsOuvO407odpX6nnMl67KitKEe4r0zViOVl0BzE-mWHhAltoTK3Y/s320/20230806_115232.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Questa città, un tempo la più grande del Messico e la capitale di un impero gigantesco, non fu culla di una sola cultura o etnia. Si costituì come una vera e propria metropoli multietnica, interessata da flussi migratori, soprattutto da sud, e costituita da quartieri divisi per provenienza dei loro abitanti (cosa che in seguito portò a tensioni sociali così forti da causare il declino della città). Alcuni archeologi sostengono che i fondatori originari fossero i Toltechi, come dedotto da alcuni scritti aztechi. Ma in nahuatl toltec significa anche "grande maestro artigiano" e, considerata la venerazione che gli aztechi avevano per gli antichi abitanti di Teotihuacan (terra degli dei), grandi nelle conoscenze tecnologiche e nell'esportazione di manufatti in ceramica e ossidiana, è lecito pensare che il riferimento non sia all'etnia. In ogni caso, le prime costruzioni, avvolte nel mistero, risalgono al I secolo a.C., mentre la pianta a griglia della città fu tracciata nel I secolo d.C. La Piramide del sol fu portata a termine nel 150d.C. su un preesistente tempio eretto in una grotta. Gli altri edifici furono costruiti tra 250 e 600 della nostra era, per poi cadere in un lento declino che portò all'abbandono, nel VIII secolo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Teotihuacan era divisa da due lunghi viali che si intersecavano tra loro all'altezza della Cittadella. Quello in direzione nord-sud è la famosa Calzada de los muertos, che deve il suo nome al fatto che gli aztechi del periodo tardo pensavano che gli imponenti edifici ai suoi lati fossero tombe erette da giganti per ospitare i primi sovrani della città (e gli spagnoli dietro a bersi questa cazz...sciocchezzuola).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Camminare qui prima che la città venisse abbandonata doveva essere uno spettacolo impressionante: bisogna immaginare gli edifici coperti di calce e dipinti a colori vivaci, oltrechè migliaia di persone di diverse culture per le strade (anche se ciò accade pure oggi, ad essere onesti). La città aveva templi ed edifici amministrativi ma soprattutto complessi residenziali, spesso abbelliti da affreschi. Anche dopo la sua caduta i sovrani aztechi venivano qui in pellegrinaggio, poichè credevano che tutti gli dei si fossero sacrificati proprio in questo luogo per avviare il moto del sole che diede inizio al "quinto mondo", quello abitato dagli aztechi. Ancora oggi ode di seguaci della new age vengono da queste parti all'equinozio di primavera, sempre in pellegrinaggio, per assorbire energie mistiche. </div><div><br /></div>Alla Piramide del sol torneremo più tardi. Ora ci avviamo lungo la Calzada del los muertos, che si estende per 4km, verso nord. Ai lati si ergono decine di strutture, per lo più abitazioni private, alcune delle quali impreziosite da affreschi. <div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisxr1g1JUpFDSc7KsKgBorJLSV3FggEkiAsmiDHOaH1V2kRmPAHrQMluj8HP2VW8UmNtzLl0cKAORV6UNROh4kepYMtIgnnFatE4fcPLBvQnXwQC6TKEZciXWFkMD8cmzwGRXD19xx996ZKq3PzTdlWw0h5SFvbOIbRm0ZoON8AAeNSrYtFNAjfwUXiZY/s1209/20230806_115615.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisxr1g1JUpFDSc7KsKgBorJLSV3FggEkiAsmiDHOaH1V2kRmPAHrQMluj8HP2VW8UmNtzLl0cKAORV6UNROh4kepYMtIgnnFatE4fcPLBvQnXwQC6TKEZciXWFkMD8cmzwGRXD19xx996ZKq3PzTdlWw0h5SFvbOIbRm0ZoON8AAeNSrYtFNAjfwUXiZY/s320/20230806_115615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMSUiDggW4ofXoysGscPe8nsVNmRCilrsbYsXAc-67oDiAJ2XCkQ7lPY83QCv9_AktwvJXVbPcoV2GAj4yxEeRLQCGesIu_ioHS0pYmca9Qm0x6AVPHi81gWPERBiRbJLdmens6CXCpUerfCM1aj-gws61XKChC7A6Rq52R6HvJQ4Ltym4e2G3eN3muk/s1209/20230806_115759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMSUiDggW4ofXoysGscPe8nsVNmRCilrsbYsXAc-67oDiAJ2XCkQ7lPY83QCv9_AktwvJXVbPcoV2GAj4yxEeRLQCGesIu_ioHS0pYmca9Qm0x6AVPHi81gWPERBiRbJLdmens6CXCpUerfCM1aj-gws61XKChC7A6Rq52R6HvJQ4Ltym4e2G3eN3muk/s320/20230806_115759.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76_RgvDvHpYkzVY-EJ8-p5gY9Q_P4cgOU-edpT7z3PxJBVBFSJWtQirO14Gs7mfTr_MrIhvUKYLyRikEb2Co-WH7VP8WzSBzWCnt9RtxT3lml6wqAkkTPS9a7lkAum45qlS4JrWyD9Vd8m-3CQIMPKewBBx98IPc2wxUBl8BmCHKYuT25Sw-hWsy0_0g/s1209/20230806_120326.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76_RgvDvHpYkzVY-EJ8-p5gY9Q_P4cgOU-edpT7z3PxJBVBFSJWtQirO14Gs7mfTr_MrIhvUKYLyRikEb2Co-WH7VP8WzSBzWCnt9RtxT3lml6wqAkkTPS9a7lkAum45qlS4JrWyD9Vd8m-3CQIMPKewBBx98IPc2wxUBl8BmCHKYuT25Sw-hWsy0_0g/s320/20230806_120326.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr47MPWZiQxYeUVOkyOBpNFYm2MsKZSQUmOnh02JsH20tT8ELrfjWqY1nRZzIM55GgYmqlYxsV0LTcThdvv7XIFxP4tbXAVe90pprPzBgVydgzUP8tYjBcC8aqgAx05CYJgODBk1ZPH2D7m42C2FFat8y6t1Tl58pr6Pohc_UyIALODJzohPoxQeeVaCA/s1209/20230806_120504.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr47MPWZiQxYeUVOkyOBpNFYm2MsKZSQUmOnh02JsH20tT8ELrfjWqY1nRZzIM55GgYmqlYxsV0LTcThdvv7XIFxP4tbXAVe90pprPzBgVydgzUP8tYjBcC8aqgAx05CYJgODBk1ZPH2D7m42C2FFat8y6t1Tl58pr6Pohc_UyIALODJzohPoxQeeVaCA/s320/20230806_120504.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">puma</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK03HuTIarrdhyFBM29JLZ2e_Z4eRdY3wiA6jtwVj7bQvAUvMl-q37h-5EqMAMuCXG1iBZ0qRGl4-6aM0F-9Oo6Y-5c31mS8__OAZuHc6K5UqQtz5ZV3C4-AeNingw7NLxgXXyb-uDOfCNLujkeetJZnTiEE-quvruBZHsPCu8sSXImc_YWgRCw2lrsko/s979/20230806_120519.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK03HuTIarrdhyFBM29JLZ2e_Z4eRdY3wiA6jtwVj7bQvAUvMl-q37h-5EqMAMuCXG1iBZ0qRGl4-6aM0F-9Oo6Y-5c31mS8__OAZuHc6K5UqQtz5ZV3C4-AeNingw7NLxgXXyb-uDOfCNLujkeetJZnTiEE-quvruBZHsPCu8sSXImc_YWgRCw2lrsko/s320/20230806_120519.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">puma + perro</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiG2UxmAtIH8xu-DOdq3KqiENxm_ldOfkeWC-mL01FGFofRADkaVZmtl50ZORzcTAIlveWXg0bqQVfLWskOywhTo8y0N2JJDH0CW933vzsHZuFOPzVXuECwMr5vsu4cGVnit4C7Ay8EHuFc_XbYJDc0dNUcMRwE0NzkJufIRnYT3qH0rEAhPpAYSBbngk/s1209/20230806_121026.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiG2UxmAtIH8xu-DOdq3KqiENxm_ldOfkeWC-mL01FGFofRADkaVZmtl50ZORzcTAIlveWXg0bqQVfLWskOywhTo8y0N2JJDH0CW933vzsHZuFOPzVXuECwMr5vsu4cGVnit4C7Ay8EHuFc_XbYJDc0dNUcMRwE0NzkJufIRnYT3qH0rEAhPpAYSBbngk/s320/20230806_121026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo, tra bimbi che lanciano frecce e fanno casino con i fischietti ruggenti (ma voglio vedere se i genitori non si pentono di quegli acquisti, appena rientrati a casa!), raggiungiamo la Piramide de la Luna. E' più piccola di quella del sole, ma ha proporzioni più aggraziate, ed è alta quanto la sua sorella maggiore perchè il terreno è in pendenza. E' stata portata a termine intorno al 300 d.C. Davanti alla piramide c'è la Plaza de la Luna, su cui si affacciano altre 12 piattaforme di templi e porta al centro un altare intorno al quale si eseguivano danze sacre; il 13 era un numero fortemente simbolico perchè alla base del sistema di conteggio dei giorni nel calendario rituale mesoamericano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWiAWw3D5bmx7ASvOXRb9lx9uq3PGysA_aoa7jC0g77ARPoSvqHAGUprQIX-Es90YqfNLh5XgO-BwhnDPmeIVqWGIJrN7eTY6KxfQ_UyhQ0zrLOHd-ALE33bNCdlTY3jOEes1Ya3e2A8EZOKUmnMVwrIrXYmnZhxfXA9Xeos77Fg20ZGte8nTT8F55kw/s1209/20230806_121358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWiAWw3D5bmx7ASvOXRb9lx9uq3PGysA_aoa7jC0g77ARPoSvqHAGUprQIX-Es90YqfNLh5XgO-BwhnDPmeIVqWGIJrN7eTY6KxfQ_UyhQ0zrLOHd-ALE33bNCdlTY3jOEes1Ya3e2A8EZOKUmnMVwrIrXYmnZhxfXA9Xeos77Fg20ZGte8nTT8F55kw/s320/20230806_121358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVxmXxprtOpkwBGj_QbXqd42YG0yVWs5zMb0t9LTNtZZL7gt5rrFUwy9qpD4FwoxlO_C-j9c-xWB0MYC1t15MGY1xhfX_HprdU5QS73m5hc-cDt8oi4vAgK_oujdYpKlD_PnnNnp39P5gHg6lugwT-ZhN64eMzQlczlG-FuvGlzAfbrznXmTHRWqHxj9s/s1209/20230806_122512.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVxmXxprtOpkwBGj_QbXqd42YG0yVWs5zMb0t9LTNtZZL7gt5rrFUwy9qpD4FwoxlO_C-j9c-xWB0MYC1t15MGY1xhfX_HprdU5QS73m5hc-cDt8oi4vAgK_oujdYpKlD_PnnNnp39P5gHg6lugwT-ZhN64eMzQlczlG-FuvGlzAfbrznXmTHRWqHxj9s/s320/20230806_122512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcvS-deRDHWP9vNUUrDd-lDSnKh1z463bGXWPcG3_PJZQd7HrhWy_bNRaFFRxG-ZuXd7ffDI1wEZ1LsJtnuE_GZSslYDJZMOujTmyDk5sOxavZqjYKf1-rg1r6kiLn49eBxRCzoF2Ng6fgbod2UrBeAqhitczxwK8A7VQAdhoUbrDz4rPtZk1KIiAM20/s1209/20230806_122537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcvS-deRDHWP9vNUUrDd-lDSnKh1z463bGXWPcG3_PJZQd7HrhWy_bNRaFFRxG-ZuXd7ffDI1wEZ1LsJtnuE_GZSslYDJZMOujTmyDk5sOxavZqjYKf1-rg1r6kiLn49eBxRCzoF2Ng6fgbod2UrBeAqhitczxwK8A7VQAdhoUbrDz4rPtZk1KIiAM20/s320/20230806_122537.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Da poco è stato vietato ai visitatore di salire sulle strutture. Tuttavia è stato creato un punto panoramico alternativo, accanto, su un edificio di minor importanza, da cui ammirare l'estensione della Calzada de los muertos.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS_sjokk7C49IzsC4FGwUn0y5kA6W6MbfiQFwJI4a3p2RMBxHFNzvPLeon8sGLtw587ng2AA5Q7cHm9UviQ3BBTD3HrTu7JZPMfQMqAvJzWeV4M3_qlre1NDhnLvs67mAPheRoPsc5p6wuPjc-JRqwLyHmifnLCfPQz8TMPztWb7-UEZfSPJ3PcQzgUcg/s1209/20230806_123245.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS_sjokk7C49IzsC4FGwUn0y5kA6W6MbfiQFwJI4a3p2RMBxHFNzvPLeon8sGLtw587ng2AA5Q7cHm9UviQ3BBTD3HrTu7JZPMfQMqAvJzWeV4M3_qlre1NDhnLvs67mAPheRoPsc5p6wuPjc-JRqwLyHmifnLCfPQz8TMPztWb7-UEZfSPJ3PcQzgUcg/s320/20230806_123245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_g03FaF57pahHkqTKf_WR_tqen_jt0BUPJpzLMrguMv_1ymRMaqm8XvYxz14y4wAnYAxLlHrvVztFMPNntkpQ7SVVDQRWUorENedAPZaB8I2evatUygs9URLPDu30IQNBQFRP7GeZPNrO31kk8wjcU_GOFuzJhhuboBrJ-oAaKj-4xR_Nn1AxnK9sQsU/s1209/20230806_123441.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_g03FaF57pahHkqTKf_WR_tqen_jt0BUPJpzLMrguMv_1ymRMaqm8XvYxz14y4wAnYAxLlHrvVztFMPNntkpQ7SVVDQRWUorENedAPZaB8I2evatUygs9URLPDu30IQNBQFRP7GeZPNrO31kk8wjcU_GOFuzJhhuboBrJ-oAaKj-4xR_Nn1AxnK9sQsU/s320/20230806_123441.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN5wJrDYXFI01yzlgvUlu8v9H-urKdjWnTrIPM6ZsgUDyriOBSRHBecRHr8lTKr9k2YkMhHct_Algso0Uz-34LRNWp121JpriQ6TZXY0BjKCHpjfAW8IUqz-9jOTgxrSlFl1p_yG4n3L_lzv1vvkH5ivU6MjtXS_UD3C44VoetjBXN7WwGZM5q0SHOm5g/s1209/20230806_123446.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN5wJrDYXFI01yzlgvUlu8v9H-urKdjWnTrIPM6ZsgUDyriOBSRHBecRHr8lTKr9k2YkMhHct_Algso0Uz-34LRNWp121JpriQ6TZXY0BjKCHpjfAW8IUqz-9jOTgxrSlFl1p_yG4n3L_lzv1vvkH5ivU6MjtXS_UD3C44VoetjBXN7WwGZM5q0SHOm5g/s320/20230806_123446.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30JfXhc6VFIsvOA-TP5wSROiUBdK5ONafRXjnftFdwa57YYiQ90s0XO_PCVwmeziAd7m8vrvHgcTYzwwwBczlkgD3ZtcCxdNksaCn-tAWTylk6IdoS5Dn4emrclxm8FYSUjZ5WrM6iERsyWKoRyj85vg_SnMb8XfcLD2Vu9rnDO4_1VULpTpsKeCjApE/s1209/20230806_123530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30JfXhc6VFIsvOA-TP5wSROiUBdK5ONafRXjnftFdwa57YYiQ90s0XO_PCVwmeziAd7m8vrvHgcTYzwwwBczlkgD3ZtcCxdNksaCn-tAWTylk6IdoS5Dn4emrclxm8FYSUjZ5WrM6iERsyWKoRyj85vg_SnMb8XfcLD2Vu9rnDO4_1VULpTpsKeCjApE/s320/20230806_123530.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqC0lYENoXasYtzMR7CDOTQspm-dIiXNOws2N3DRZDPmJ8Ducg17fElAw4D1dlmLQG6Usg8lZRdaAvtPvW_wWg4xspSIeifHEQM9PUOrBWlL6Fl9sUzjQq9DY4SuhiJBrZSh2GBv1U3juCbfGiDrGMJyfNGpWLbfpI67uyMquNaI0iS0IWY6ePZVYL3T8/s1209/20230806_124131.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqC0lYENoXasYtzMR7CDOTQspm-dIiXNOws2N3DRZDPmJ8Ducg17fElAw4D1dlmLQG6Usg8lZRdaAvtPvW_wWg4xspSIeifHEQM9PUOrBWlL6Fl9sUzjQq9DY4SuhiJBrZSh2GBv1U3juCbfGiDrGMJyfNGpWLbfpI67uyMquNaI0iS0IWY6ePZVYL3T8/s320/20230806_124131.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Da lì si accede anche a un complesso residenziale di rara bellezza, con il palazzo di Quetzalpapalotl (Farfalla quetzal), residenza di un sacerdote di alto rango. Qui sono stati rinvenuti resti di orsi, armadilli e altri animali esotici... Ma non da compagnia! Cucinati. Erano cibo per ricchi, riservato alle elite. Sotto e alle spalle di questo palazzo ce ne sono altri due, quello dei Giaguari e quello delle Conchiglie strombo piumate (giuro... Che ve devo di'), con affreschi e bassorilievi. Qui ho avuto la misura della raffinatezza dell'arte, e non solo sacra, di questa civiltà. Volendo fare un paragone che non si può fare, si deve pensare alle residenze di Pompei.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjin1WV0RGUhdFSzpfqZIO7-oMI6I4c91ILbswKRELcPQdCDb3-1dvY7rOYqNHETk5gOAKxK5kQo6Oy-r_T1jHLWbbZzuqEfSR51ARciP7ZS8BAWu7HxGM4i-3lxLV8E9L5YN0F4BWxu0MixGOg-GbGXBAj_yDW7xT9N13Y2v90dVaseETqw89CzoIdpQ4/s1209/20230806_124914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjin1WV0RGUhdFSzpfqZIO7-oMI6I4c91ILbswKRELcPQdCDb3-1dvY7rOYqNHETk5gOAKxK5kQo6Oy-r_T1jHLWbbZzuqEfSR51ARciP7ZS8BAWu7HxGM4i-3lxLV8E9L5YN0F4BWxu0MixGOg-GbGXBAj_yDW7xT9N13Y2v90dVaseETqw89CzoIdpQ4/s320/20230806_124914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP3fb2ezbkETIv4ADud3ngyGzdpJjcqa8Yz7hDrWCqaGirvcvKn_91WEzXT0WYw3HibgZr78IERtGmZJtWLhYdjORZ78N7bUlJcVOwMEINNF_WcP2WQIXCLxbFo9hIvKhW5OMdcpKnXgUgTsCQfXwBcKAtQQBldvipN6169DrYRhZumwp2zqiNLf3h6wQ/s1209/20230806_124953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP3fb2ezbkETIv4ADud3ngyGzdpJjcqa8Yz7hDrWCqaGirvcvKn_91WEzXT0WYw3HibgZr78IERtGmZJtWLhYdjORZ78N7bUlJcVOwMEINNF_WcP2WQIXCLxbFo9hIvKhW5OMdcpKnXgUgTsCQfXwBcKAtQQBldvipN6169DrYRhZumwp2zqiNLf3h6wQ/s320/20230806_124953.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5j0kmNhS7v5zUyhLmp6LV7PYIQyhUyDVa8tjAiAxMw1qDk_V2Q7-GSKbFVpghpeh6_4J-KUCcerDL3e74e5gORiSirDb_dI0FLFfAbXkCl0_z7UXuRbL01-63-JjdkUXTYZzPAUZtMLy8KZf781fHcQxD6DADyVuqig8-wYXCRwq0pFSZOY66MiUm54/s979/20230806_124957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5j0kmNhS7v5zUyhLmp6LV7PYIQyhUyDVa8tjAiAxMw1qDk_V2Q7-GSKbFVpghpeh6_4J-KUCcerDL3e74e5gORiSirDb_dI0FLFfAbXkCl0_z7UXuRbL01-63-JjdkUXTYZzPAUZtMLy8KZf781fHcQxD6DADyVuqig8-wYXCRwq0pFSZOY66MiUm54/s320/20230806_124957.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver visto gli affreschi dei giaguari che suonano trombe-conchiglie e invocano il dio della pioggia, torniamo alla Calzada de los muertos. Nel frattempo il sole è diventato cocente, ci sono anziani messicani che capitolano, sedendosi sui gradoni, sotto a minuscoli ombrellini, con coperte e teli in testa e addosso, per proteggersi dal sole, per automummificarsi in un luogo degno. Gli ambulanti vendono bibite fresche di nascosto, offrendo bicchieri di CocaCola sfusa come fossero grammi di coca non cola. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWEOMTxQfUYAfGFngIGxU5pdthGXjClYhfaMG-WeI0k8OWKMPrg5-P8pOCWFR-EF63c6jTVGXYJ0gStNWO9JrXjml_JrsApSHinhOOZdoRpIG4JMjkishx59ynFMiQqR2etx8XE55qzmC37CqxGtlrViVjBaJHf58rThCaw7OtnyvpUfyGKHtoUPKDyZM/s1209/20230806_125047.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWEOMTxQfUYAfGFngIGxU5pdthGXjClYhfaMG-WeI0k8OWKMPrg5-P8pOCWFR-EF63c6jTVGXYJ0gStNWO9JrXjml_JrsApSHinhOOZdoRpIG4JMjkishx59ynFMiQqR2etx8XE55qzmC37CqxGtlrViVjBaJHf58rThCaw7OtnyvpUfyGKHtoUPKDyZM/s320/20230806_125047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWnGTFElcsVewLbAxUo20jQDQ_NTbjorHI6FM4-xZb0huUjBX3723fOEyZ512EQaIxfIMGZFfjzYcG4VmGSYi5GOdN9TnELBouedDrhFbBePmiQDoEsAtvut4UmObptrAUpB2jB3GiLHHQnyYf9MDvvaVlapIWxhVuNiOSjfWxgnXEGtSR9y1XCnjl1no/s1209/20230806_125435.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWnGTFElcsVewLbAxUo20jQDQ_NTbjorHI6FM4-xZb0huUjBX3723fOEyZ512EQaIxfIMGZFfjzYcG4VmGSYi5GOdN9TnELBouedDrhFbBePmiQDoEsAtvut4UmObptrAUpB2jB3GiLHHQnyYf9MDvvaVlapIWxhVuNiOSjfWxgnXEGtSR9y1XCnjl1no/s320/20230806_125435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZd0jzfak4R26D_3qdTgM8xmzjkijhpb8NDynjA-xXyqZG2fSRYQ2jgVu2wn8ylAWVcpx-IKy8hMWa85c0zcxTMDLUqzs6IbCA_GLUlneA7Y8M88i6H9ng_GScyDfnoZtio0yNu6XVcLdeXxupXvK_V41oNiWq2G64vu9BQea2Fz2SBvLjr9cwuZnqVQc/s1209/20230806_125549.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZd0jzfak4R26D_3qdTgM8xmzjkijhpb8NDynjA-xXyqZG2fSRYQ2jgVu2wn8ylAWVcpx-IKy8hMWa85c0zcxTMDLUqzs6IbCA_GLUlneA7Y8M88i6H9ng_GScyDfnoZtio0yNu6XVcLdeXxupXvK_V41oNiWq2G64vu9BQea2Fz2SBvLjr9cwuZnqVQc/s320/20230806_125549.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCUBL-S9nRsdwbaaxrmqlbr3mJOxqdf2daBeN59xHBBR_Fihy9mH-iq5PlRjc_434DjTxWYfcp_I9gusL9AWjaMohYXmToqNBpcHbeWvZWlw8qpf8Ls7IuDPPKEmJNUJ5HMxBoVGWB7T7rby5zyy7I2hGpxmi5oJwaVObchzgOkUfZKtXqhlYkYCCeCM/s1209/20230806_125813.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCUBL-S9nRsdwbaaxrmqlbr3mJOxqdf2daBeN59xHBBR_Fihy9mH-iq5PlRjc_434DjTxWYfcp_I9gusL9AWjaMohYXmToqNBpcHbeWvZWlw8qpf8Ls7IuDPPKEmJNUJ5HMxBoVGWB7T7rby5zyy7I2hGpxmi5oJwaVObchzgOkUfZKtXqhlYkYCCeCM/s320/20230806_125813.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eHUfPUGI-T1ATMQTCU2SHWe2KUOfK3Q5j4zdjRZaVDU7aI3OZl-wkV4fWL2pygWgBGW8auHWIIEPa5P_uFdvdMeYBn3YWLSt1NzI7roUIhg2kA1a0kP4KOWjrAqsy0nIPxisvWJ9T3o5QODE6Bjt5oJYNfpxveWmJf4OtZiJTlOcaX6X2CLGVIKu6zU/s1209/20230806_125919.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eHUfPUGI-T1ATMQTCU2SHWe2KUOfK3Q5j4zdjRZaVDU7aI3OZl-wkV4fWL2pygWgBGW8auHWIIEPa5P_uFdvdMeYBn3YWLSt1NzI7roUIhg2kA1a0kP4KOWjrAqsy0nIPxisvWJ9T3o5QODE6Bjt5oJYNfpxveWmJf4OtZiJTlOcaX6X2CLGVIKu6zU/s320/20230806_125919.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Torniamo alla Piramide del sole, ora un po' meno affollata (i gruppi guidati stanno già lasciando il sito). Con i suoi 222m per lato di base e i 70m di altezza, è la terza piramide al mondo per grandezza, dopo quella di Cheope in Egitto (che però è una tomba, non un tempio) e quella di Cholula, qui vicino. Ai tempi, dal 100 d.C. quando fu costruita, era dipinta di rosso vivo, che ardeva di riflessi fiammeggianti al tramonto. I tre milioni di tonnellate di pietre che la costituiscono sono stati lavorati senza far uso di utensili di metallo, bestie da soma e ruota. Sotto alla piramide si trova una galleria che la collega a una grotta dove si venerava il sole già nei secoli precedenti. Si riteneva che li vita avesse avuto origine proprio da quella cavità.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgarp6Dn-uhiyOVSQETjsENvfyBR6AKcwzyxMznzEls8PqMUgXrnQ6fHLxkpHo3MekRtQ_7xxfbu_C6on-DY-n6mPYzMaMZaKbhwR0MpdBktGE_JTkwdzRWSR5JKlhBqyaETEgW_nJ2C6GrrLZQqE6KKqtWetAQZW3CF2sECfsGo5IwZ8HposeOH2qGttg/s1209/20230806_132214.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgarp6Dn-uhiyOVSQETjsENvfyBR6AKcwzyxMznzEls8PqMUgXrnQ6fHLxkpHo3MekRtQ_7xxfbu_C6on-DY-n6mPYzMaMZaKbhwR0MpdBktGE_JTkwdzRWSR5JKlhBqyaETEgW_nJ2C6GrrLZQqE6KKqtWetAQZW3CF2sECfsGo5IwZ8HposeOH2qGttg/s320/20230806_132214.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc_CsEmzj7uar5hvfPWw-oxg05-7JZCaUEvHfKQbMZAuf72G6g98V6_-dqRJS8Mhf0SFEvL9XbZJBjZ0y0HNEQBDXVE63_yLXIEUmda9owzCaNOrBru4XkUcRqznQTNencHQoWofaNLajt0hK3Ebtl0eACwqAeJS6kplMUdf4J4SRN5CQseY7JGdklvoI/s1209/20230806_132709.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc_CsEmzj7uar5hvfPWw-oxg05-7JZCaUEvHfKQbMZAuf72G6g98V6_-dqRJS8Mhf0SFEvL9XbZJBjZ0y0HNEQBDXVE63_yLXIEUmda9owzCaNOrBru4XkUcRqznQTNencHQoWofaNLajt0hK3Ebtl0eACwqAeJS6kplMUdf4J4SRN5CQseY7JGdklvoI/s320/20230806_132709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFrVx48cFtwKbgRDdXjb4X-fcYoCaV3gl7h3vHhmrnv69w-XvMbMrD8pWaoBdlfqLcTpmo-0GKE8y2auxCEvjGx1JhF5udTUuNsnhAuewNxyWRgsIjmM40ldTqxpP1N9FUCCx42I5cs-7J1TZ2pYZ_4WaZKzZurO1G-zl9Viip_LStQQ7BjCV86Emn24/s979/20230806_132716.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFrVx48cFtwKbgRDdXjb4X-fcYoCaV3gl7h3vHhmrnv69w-XvMbMrD8pWaoBdlfqLcTpmo-0GKE8y2auxCEvjGx1JhF5udTUuNsnhAuewNxyWRgsIjmM40ldTqxpP1N9FUCCx42I5cs-7J1TZ2pYZ_4WaZKzZurO1G-zl9Viip_LStQQ7BjCV86Emn24/s320/20230806_132716.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSlAD5PrS-zJrC7f74GLDrLANTsDtHx8Tkf5_-0KDnvGTSsqFd7beWdAJsidk5fi02EabN5qSiT90spzUyoXCXQdQ4efDbe7yZofFK8Ds-rgP9vfUq7xNPdHzrxzHeRVTtd6x979HS9Yc08cmJYTd7WMv4bgaaS5zP88dJixY_F7fqOtODBeI_-wo2xcQ/s1209/20230806_132942.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSlAD5PrS-zJrC7f74GLDrLANTsDtHx8Tkf5_-0KDnvGTSsqFd7beWdAJsidk5fi02EabN5qSiT90spzUyoXCXQdQ4efDbe7yZofFK8Ds-rgP9vfUq7xNPdHzrxzHeRVTtd6x979HS9Yc08cmJYTd7WMv4bgaaS5zP88dJixY_F7fqOtODBeI_-wo2xcQ/s320/20230806_132942.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyAuXEWCj1O7RzBkuAvj3qcUgyLd2lcmHilU1okhS7h-Ui88VKnw-n-1DUorEPR4h3LHe1yZrm9io9ysFHX3r9lt5AjwB4eHIrNPnX5b7oeOIZmG-_jXyOZ6x0kutU6X7KUw0gfFuSD40UZTxgcLR8od2IRy9GLckXwo-GmDvL3fN_GBlP7-VZVbL4dOk/s1209/20230806_133139.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyAuXEWCj1O7RzBkuAvj3qcUgyLd2lcmHilU1okhS7h-Ui88VKnw-n-1DUorEPR4h3LHe1yZrm9io9ysFHX3r9lt5AjwB4eHIrNPnX5b7oeOIZmG-_jXyOZ6x0kutU6X7KUw0gfFuSD40UZTxgcLR8od2IRy9GLckXwo-GmDvL3fN_GBlP7-VZVbL4dOk/s320/20230806_133139.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSEnBeR2a7svYmV_Vy1JpNrBTADJ2erf1EYSfmAO7HBpJa_4jHrJkloQd6eFsrMcrxMZTqO1H63kuKIngLbcFRlSZ29pkbWZBmAGURatat6eBc12evmYdx8xn7PMgi5fC9pCvrEJga8tAEukom2QiRONmiMrQzMTiVvrVVblG-rl2s3owRYAMIIiQ3qvs/s1209/20230806_133621.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSEnBeR2a7svYmV_Vy1JpNrBTADJ2erf1EYSfmAO7HBpJa_4jHrJkloQd6eFsrMcrxMZTqO1H63kuKIngLbcFRlSZ29pkbWZBmAGURatat6eBc12evmYdx8xn7PMgi5fC9pCvrEJga8tAEukom2QiRONmiMrQzMTiVvrVVblG-rl2s3owRYAMIIiQ3qvs/s320/20230806_133621.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZj1FRc_SJ_zv2JJQpvUxN5yJM3F_YuJjaIdoeDiSg-TTFFsb0J23M37HG9PBMUJAMSh34xEQ-Rofcdc_vWPsm5NSfLpTO3wtPwHGNa60Eo3FDhDLzE4PJLCZsAesd7EG622dXS31-qSMaALKb34SKTJMr5V49nOZ5BmcqsOHEY7psRFMSJXXrKP2-1G8/s1209/20230806_133731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZj1FRc_SJ_zv2JJQpvUxN5yJM3F_YuJjaIdoeDiSg-TTFFsb0J23M37HG9PBMUJAMSh34xEQ-Rofcdc_vWPsm5NSfLpTO3wtPwHGNa60Eo3FDhDLzE4PJLCZsAesd7EG622dXS31-qSMaALKb34SKTJMr5V49nOZ5BmcqsOHEY7psRFMSJXXrKP2-1G8/s320/20230806_133731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Imbocchiamo nuovamente la Calzada del los muertos per proseguire nel sito, stavolta verso sud. In diversi punti i visitatori local costruiscono piccoli cairn, torri di sassi impilate. Ho già notato nei monticchi ordinati di frutta dei mercati questa irrisolta tendenza a innalzare piramidi. Ne facciamo uno anche noi, non sia mai che qualche divinità arcana punisca una mancanza di rispetto! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHPs7zhfb2hUpsvfUilvZNX6QVlYxaTt385ZzxwKPf0Ep-7aXRixAbHuDyLK_KoFJBg3ULCPNxCiucSlJN-LRLOklB3MiFeAdp5n2MTzbQKHnNgqoqf1tce9CEjDVP6wDDEQAedGHmIgR4QIv8OA3qAeqHntwHV_A15NBWKWPablx14XLbT6z-MGcK8uw/s1209/20230806_134133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHPs7zhfb2hUpsvfUilvZNX6QVlYxaTt385ZzxwKPf0Ep-7aXRixAbHuDyLK_KoFJBg3ULCPNxCiucSlJN-LRLOklB3MiFeAdp5n2MTzbQKHnNgqoqf1tce9CEjDVP6wDDEQAedGHmIgR4QIv8OA3qAeqHntwHV_A15NBWKWPablx14XLbT6z-MGcK8uw/s320/20230806_134133.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixShjbr27cz_GOMkoKhwSiD62Ff_aBR-lAACxLy6iJxN_P9HvnBP8nfXqrrlMuYh3rO2rosmlzoZV6WysBO4CLkuL-HZtJ6Xahx2mnMh-n0GTzGJv7oBO3AZzNC2Qm8GdZ9iEtT0VPX-DAzzqOgvXlrsRHSPHOQB6JJBvGzQI9Or3lh0GyJJTK2Ab3wjU/s1209/20230806_134151.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixShjbr27cz_GOMkoKhwSiD62Ff_aBR-lAACxLy6iJxN_P9HvnBP8nfXqrrlMuYh3rO2rosmlzoZV6WysBO4CLkuL-HZtJ6Xahx2mnMh-n0GTzGJv7oBO3AZzNC2Qm8GdZ9iEtT0VPX-DAzzqOgvXlrsRHSPHOQB6JJBvGzQI9Or3lh0GyJJTK2Ab3wjU/s320/20230806_134151.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUYAH8ET2eKJWTsaEhq1hqaPxr4jlVIbreAkYoBTzKrEtI17s0O6dQYZ9yUsVZ38cDAfgioeOWoPTeEYavrfaNEW6xgVc-XqQe6FNvihjTHX4YFOYYlFGA_AtbtkfmlJOWg_Gll0ZQgrArbPCUc8qoKSeVOUalYeDZz3bpYBMy9pcXjT6APtRAukBZpRc/s1209/20230806_134655.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUYAH8ET2eKJWTsaEhq1hqaPxr4jlVIbreAkYoBTzKrEtI17s0O6dQYZ9yUsVZ38cDAfgioeOWoPTeEYavrfaNEW6xgVc-XqQe6FNvihjTHX4YFOYYlFGA_AtbtkfmlJOWg_Gll0ZQgrArbPCUc8qoKSeVOUalYeDZz3bpYBMy9pcXjT6APtRAukBZpRc/s320/20230806_134655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I livelli dello sconfinato viale sono collegati da gradini e da tunnel, che servivano probabilmente per lo scolo delle acque. I bambini usano fare una prova di coraggio e passare negli stretti cunicoli. Posso esimermi? OVVIAMENTE NO. Rischio di rimanere incastrata? Ovviamente sì.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjGJ9DhiIEjHWdfqyTxHHHqCDSdhFo7-7V1pSlYYtnyPS4CmsCZEQu_jAq_EopiVu1KNeI11qV7gwfSQmymkDU8b1p_kuCBlNn1iZwY-CzszkhlJXcmHmFTVCg8d0r5qV6vqKlMF2jWjeE77frPbQTmK3tODqyh5YKeHpiUOXyJnV-ekb8r4yx173wh0A/s1600/IMG-20230806-WA0013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjGJ9DhiIEjHWdfqyTxHHHqCDSdhFo7-7V1pSlYYtnyPS4CmsCZEQu_jAq_EopiVu1KNeI11qV7gwfSQmymkDU8b1p_kuCBlNn1iZwY-CzszkhlJXcmHmFTVCg8d0r5qV6vqKlMF2jWjeE77frPbQTmK3tODqyh5YKeHpiUOXyJnV-ekb8r4yx173wh0A/s320/IMG-20230806-WA0013.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6-ecfjZv3Uiaf8LD2gA7LCOOMdZr2wAeFDAybS_aPua3yEVSQW4s-sxYlXo4jC_PR29Y6vMc_04BoUlyRP-X_2JRCzrXSvS-DYk9omKhhixpvxE2OPEGwJKXcnLNwCBkifQGC5_yZzmJnjF3Oy6bRtsNFFKhQE2pLm5ZMdZOaKredMVwi17rxBaohc-A/s1600/IMG-20230806-WA0014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6-ecfjZv3Uiaf8LD2gA7LCOOMdZr2wAeFDAybS_aPua3yEVSQW4s-sxYlXo4jC_PR29Y6vMc_04BoUlyRP-X_2JRCzrXSvS-DYk9omKhhixpvxE2OPEGwJKXcnLNwCBkifQGC5_yZzmJnjF3Oy6bRtsNFFKhQE2pLm5ZMdZOaKredMVwi17rxBaohc-A/s320/IMG-20230806-WA0014.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Cammina e cammina, raggiungiamo un bel complesso residenziale con teste di giaguaro serpente e tracce di affreschi, oltre a camere sotterranee che rivelano le diverse fasi di costruzione e rimaneggiamento degli edifici. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvXMKiAykqj8j5YbDpSh8URwUgy1u7D-dHnm_FjtjxaOnpo62ZTupV-iuG9ukEBhCQUaTplrkmujgpWMqHiedlUHifp8g1WtM-g5XyqAFjNKNy3ocmnk9EIe37GkJV1GI0x3rEqsPDb3wjdrTo7K49u8oTPvlAeVNGL0UuObO7i2wSW7hw9xODCasnMlc/s1209/20230806_135219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvXMKiAykqj8j5YbDpSh8URwUgy1u7D-dHnm_FjtjxaOnpo62ZTupV-iuG9ukEBhCQUaTplrkmujgpWMqHiedlUHifp8g1WtM-g5XyqAFjNKNy3ocmnk9EIe37GkJV1GI0x3rEqsPDb3wjdrTo7K49u8oTPvlAeVNGL0UuObO7i2wSW7hw9xODCasnMlc/s320/20230806_135219.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk5Zpe9fz7baQAKaVpefKJt6-Yp-tZG_3DMGYr2ocgfPNhSgy7t9Rkso5erLesuai58Pdpa7bqw02qHet8gwaadBMzy6EakEytgrsDM9PBdi3pCkkvYhAdcxhynAGNWdqwvxhThmSijFvzDWgJMztfo--5vcDH-IHI0_Movu37C384MYeYeGRrqTVaJiA/s1209/20230806_135227.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk5Zpe9fz7baQAKaVpefKJt6-Yp-tZG_3DMGYr2ocgfPNhSgy7t9Rkso5erLesuai58Pdpa7bqw02qHet8gwaadBMzy6EakEytgrsDM9PBdi3pCkkvYhAdcxhynAGNWdqwvxhThmSijFvzDWgJMztfo--5vcDH-IHI0_Movu37C384MYeYeGRrqTVaJiA/s320/20230806_135227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLpavc3U6P2kqYKZHCwNyCfxuGL92n5P-jKUPsRRUVtUB0-DfPQ0Wx31EJ6pqpuvhKdbL3MwryaK5_lZ3Rk64dsvoTsgToJMOJMMmy_VdhYaXiwmPFi-Y0MWNpVEGwxShr9FLzLj5LKFOIYBH3E5Om-C5KpFp3HdOq4NfoWrZIJbt9DssMNdsGRzDzC94/s1209/20230806_135353.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLpavc3U6P2kqYKZHCwNyCfxuGL92n5P-jKUPsRRUVtUB0-DfPQ0Wx31EJ6pqpuvhKdbL3MwryaK5_lZ3Rk64dsvoTsgToJMOJMMmy_VdhYaXiwmPFi-Y0MWNpVEGwxShr9FLzLj5LKFOIYBH3E5Om-C5KpFp3HdOq4NfoWrZIJbt9DssMNdsGRzDzC94/s320/20230806_135353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjILlwhX8FwggltsT08TB3CVs6xyElQnswdIujvoTW97aDF2_rW0o4wEu_ThWRbBpXG6jsiwKUYI9RgYoNPa8DH0X4N2hwbFFy-sOzWt-w8TPXdHdOF38ECorMFPMLkFVo4F0hcy05zom2d_81qWmx27iDirKzrhhIl1Qew3qc9tH60uawtrurTp2Qonco/s1209/20230806_135541.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjILlwhX8FwggltsT08TB3CVs6xyElQnswdIujvoTW97aDF2_rW0o4wEu_ThWRbBpXG6jsiwKUYI9RgYoNPa8DH0X4N2hwbFFy-sOzWt-w8TPXdHdOF38ECorMFPMLkFVo4F0hcy05zom2d_81qWmx27iDirKzrhhIl1Qew3qc9tH60uawtrurTp2Qonco/s320/20230806_135541.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9wSZBKjGPDS5u1pO6rY_HCBvjhHlYL6IJFmHxo_YLhoxbOM7Ek1LBpIpxiehA1c1t2AAD_UUWjAYPtvg8xs56vqRksaKmRhGyXfWD5ik8LB4gy9_n2WW8hBF2wryWfnMurmjUVdNxrB6jYW5ZxUCxUXoSn9NZrGE5Zvw8Cec0d7IV73CdviZoykgyPvw/s1209/20230806_135616.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9wSZBKjGPDS5u1pO6rY_HCBvjhHlYL6IJFmHxo_YLhoxbOM7Ek1LBpIpxiehA1c1t2AAD_UUWjAYPtvg8xs56vqRksaKmRhGyXfWD5ik8LB4gy9_n2WW8hBF2wryWfnMurmjUVdNxrB6jYW5ZxUCxUXoSn9NZrGE5Zvw8Cec0d7IV73CdviZoykgyPvw/s320/20230806_135616.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC4yRMDhYADkbZhLo6OJgCT96DdcdjoPQx5jyuWuhfDQu4SkZl-lfXeIBjpF4gYrOy5RCC_elaz2Cgd77HoKtpgab6JXen2n6q_Sl9ZaVzYIEAMEnpLJn0Gv5NIm-v0Ewe1kRmyLOezywFk_8LbofsV0IzpG-mLKJ9Mc1UJR29XQBh0qkB8EkGwrlugnU/s1209/20230806_135628.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC4yRMDhYADkbZhLo6OJgCT96DdcdjoPQx5jyuWuhfDQu4SkZl-lfXeIBjpF4gYrOy5RCC_elaz2Cgd77HoKtpgab6JXen2n6q_Sl9ZaVzYIEAMEnpLJn0Gv5NIm-v0Ewe1kRmyLOezywFk_8LbofsV0IzpG-mLKJ9Mc1UJR29XQBh0qkB8EkGwrlugnU/s320/20230806_135628.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_mhxar0OXUwgqgSsqcJA1xlIZ5uirVtD8yNLzXnZXvNSLJO5NeLYzsZXsgWgZ38NO-bzpWtLjCq3YoUb-uUO2vxJ3TZWM2U7_KgDNMztf_HHGUTxzIg-C9EO3V-2HzAjPEimOx1t7Upr83KEiqM5QIquky-oyFNwt4FMACVi3lq7oOcs3JibFxmzuRfs/s1209/20230806_140134.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_mhxar0OXUwgqgSsqcJA1xlIZ5uirVtD8yNLzXnZXvNSLJO5NeLYzsZXsgWgZ38NO-bzpWtLjCq3YoUb-uUO2vxJ3TZWM2U7_KgDNMztf_HHGUTxzIg-C9EO3V-2HzAjPEimOx1t7Upr83KEiqM5QIquky-oyFNwt4FMACVi3lq7oOcs3JibFxmzuRfs/s320/20230806_140134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgAw2P-s7ncdmlVybNyr-UsPwe0h8UsCVnlXKbUTryTCLCW6sRR09YtVTUVoLGP_dXN7ZTH4EU_fVbxYm5McAM5Dm1F5jpr-3Ocyf9MiG7uVJj8xHjU_tmIo8XTd6QeDExRu1PsJoPv4DkshTbZCCNhdXZZMy3XOL_E8IesEGX9BWvT0pdB3JYOszgwyY/s1209/20230806_140151.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgAw2P-s7ncdmlVybNyr-UsPwe0h8UsCVnlXKbUTryTCLCW6sRR09YtVTUVoLGP_dXN7ZTH4EU_fVbxYm5McAM5Dm1F5jpr-3Ocyf9MiG7uVJj8xHjU_tmIo8XTd6QeDExRu1PsJoPv4DkshTbZCCNhdXZZMy3XOL_E8IesEGX9BWvT0pdB3JYOszgwyY/s320/20230806_140151.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRL42H_P52XLCl86fbAbd4dzeL2tECiMFkW574oZlARSpOBTlcyaKV1dm1YnQAzXei6q18e9OE5fD96Ki-CNj9mM-GQTWEJuO93_F3Bwr94KFn2rNM1hDu83ZiN9J3fqBk9SxSIu2TqdG5oyCj409EJ9uMC0C3oyZWw6GBM2zhE9-cGmBM1TOq44ratm8/s989/20230806_140219.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRL42H_P52XLCl86fbAbd4dzeL2tECiMFkW574oZlARSpOBTlcyaKV1dm1YnQAzXei6q18e9OE5fD96Ki-CNj9mM-GQTWEJuO93_F3Bwr94KFn2rNM1hDu83ZiN9J3fqBk9SxSIu2TqdG5oyCj409EJ9uMC0C3oyZWw6GBM2zhE9-cGmBM1TOq44ratm8/s320/20230806_140219.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">questa sono io pronta a intonare un canto in nahuatl, con la felpa come mantello, perchè mi sono resa conto di essere terribilmente ustionata il collo e la testa</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEw-16J0QXPrsuh4iEVcgbnJR2v4uIVWKg3qamjvuiGjUbzyxLwypW9zrMfZCdEmmyN4GBoMtdA4BmWlAFJ4OsZ-OtOf7CfL82Dejv7DdGs1uIqTABDBTy0oemBqOdSFF21lp1QB2KQWlOJCGkA4haqhTEvQPmymmt3fQ7oZViiKEc7gEx4cPRPYRsiw/s1209/20230806_140436.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEw-16J0QXPrsuh4iEVcgbnJR2v4uIVWKg3qamjvuiGjUbzyxLwypW9zrMfZCdEmmyN4GBoMtdA4BmWlAFJ4OsZ-OtOf7CfL82Dejv7DdGs1uIqTABDBTy0oemBqOdSFF21lp1QB2KQWlOJCGkA4haqhTEvQPmymmt3fQ7oZViiKEc7gEx4cPRPYRsiw/s320/20230806_140436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo una breve pausa acqua-cibo-pipì (Gigi sta per stramazzare al suolo), raggiungiamo la Ciudadela, un vasto complesso a pianta quadrata, forse residenza del sovrano e centro amministrativo della città. Quattro mura massicce racchiudono uno spazio aperto, circondato da 15 templi e la piramide di Quatzalcoatl. Alcuni rituali prevedevano che la piazza, simbolo del mondo dei vivi, venisse allagata, mentre i templi rappresentavano le montagne.</div>Nei dintorni dell'area sono stati trovati 137 scheletri provenienti da tutto il Messico, prigionieri o schiavi usati come vittime sacrificali. Sotto alla ciudadela core una galleria sotterranea con un affresco che raffigura il mondo dei morti, il cielo stellato in pirite e i laghi in mercurio, oltre a oggetti rituali (occhi di cristallo, sculture di giaguari e doriti a forma di denti di coccodrillo)</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwX4hxy08lHeJihEr8dFTErfhPPIptlTs1swP9UVOe4tm4XlAr3cLWKn7U_C-wIPE2csY6-ISdgYDdc1GzdccANL7UUx5JlenC2jedVX7iCSZflIDPgxWdHZ08jRH9DBOxE1Ri03OFcNlVO6o1js-Tdg3nluxFfL5phD8NFQyT9UKDfxHuQvzeLasbyNo/s1209/20230806_142047.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwX4hxy08lHeJihEr8dFTErfhPPIptlTs1swP9UVOe4tm4XlAr3cLWKn7U_C-wIPE2csY6-ISdgYDdc1GzdccANL7UUx5JlenC2jedVX7iCSZflIDPgxWdHZ08jRH9DBOxE1Ri03OFcNlVO6o1js-Tdg3nluxFfL5phD8NFQyT9UKDfxHuQvzeLasbyNo/s320/20230806_142047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibYJp769fdMOc_dXX_BEp8CABjlFZwUouBtiiSXUK2TV4g1co54J5yW56SJ1_fLo-Qs6l98yFvI_j5D13SOtLg2Eh3wdiUGa8-h7Gu1y7LTvBQ-2la0_-GEoR-i3UJZopeI3LwtEV0Am93iaB3cqGG_rZph0S9YnzBIgr4tw1VUY8TPW6cybdISc9fMzE/s1209/20230806_150110.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibYJp769fdMOc_dXX_BEp8CABjlFZwUouBtiiSXUK2TV4g1co54J5yW56SJ1_fLo-Qs6l98yFvI_j5D13SOtLg2Eh3wdiUGa8-h7Gu1y7LTvBQ-2la0_-GEoR-i3UJZopeI3LwtEV0Am93iaB3cqGG_rZph0S9YnzBIgr4tw1VUY8TPW6cybdISc9fMzE/s320/20230806_150110.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPI1ekNm8RHhsATBWYQZLFAOhEDC6aIlwIiSO1OhoA1FvZrA4aKAa-GAsQmfmyateWO487FBpa5ErI_NSymhAL98A1ReY3K2IxirxZi7Ihba8AuVku7tlk70HyB0oIHrs4a8nwRtWRZ_Ng0KEeXX27EwYsR88bl_hiBj8u9dY35pE40m8Nu2kEztg1Ws/s1209/20230806_150427.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPI1ekNm8RHhsATBWYQZLFAOhEDC6aIlwIiSO1OhoA1FvZrA4aKAa-GAsQmfmyateWO487FBpa5ErI_NSymhAL98A1ReY3K2IxirxZi7Ihba8AuVku7tlk70HyB0oIHrs4a8nwRtWRZ_Ng0KEeXX27EwYsR88bl_hiBj8u9dY35pE40m8Nu2kEztg1Ws/s320/20230806_150427.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il pezzo forte, qui, è però il tempio di Quetzalcoatl. I quattro gradoni (di sette) rimasti sono meravigliosamente decorati con bassorilievi a forma di testa di serpente piumati (antenati dell'azteco e successivo Quetzalcoatl) e serpente di fuoco, che accompagnava il sole nel suo viaggio quotidiano attraverso il cielo. Le sculture erano impreziosite da pietre preziose e ossidiana, il tempio era dipinto di azzurro e decorato con scene di guerra o creazione del mondo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccVtMbcDMZt7N4LaUvOmcm3TwIqNVbkDnpW7zIeg2bgAOtodF0awAAGM5Ak_2C9H1c7rgMz3a4MG_VZoJ8xMvgVjfM8-6hqZNfAsGvgPOnBIKkf2RJZD-OhaGv4CsJhzmS9Em7ybWmGPyBJD0bmHgHccdsG0x7MoUbVP2pr-nBJkDY9k9yMPpo6GlPGw/s979/20230806_150542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccVtMbcDMZt7N4LaUvOmcm3TwIqNVbkDnpW7zIeg2bgAOtodF0awAAGM5Ak_2C9H1c7rgMz3a4MG_VZoJ8xMvgVjfM8-6hqZNfAsGvgPOnBIKkf2RJZD-OhaGv4CsJhzmS9Em7ybWmGPyBJD0bmHgHccdsG0x7MoUbVP2pr-nBJkDY9k9yMPpo6GlPGw/s320/20230806_150542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2jTmxXcNoa7RXQrpJK2tgj0vniblQ-9mGNbmYoYN524tDQxVX2Ors7k2tYx7u037SXlJtpgT4AjvZ4m1NMQbhv-8ImOOE73IuwWWpMxdxq6UXoZULZpR3HGdmlubSPy6_C7nI-i0FNbB-Ufg1ddMHBhBOhVEMvgMriAK-o0aVgZREnUQ2Ke_cDuTQg1c/s1209/20230806_150604.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2jTmxXcNoa7RXQrpJK2tgj0vniblQ-9mGNbmYoYN524tDQxVX2Ors7k2tYx7u037SXlJtpgT4AjvZ4m1NMQbhv-8ImOOE73IuwWWpMxdxq6UXoZULZpR3HGdmlubSPy6_C7nI-i0FNbB-Ufg1ddMHBhBOhVEMvgMriAK-o0aVgZREnUQ2Ke_cDuTQg1c/s320/20230806_150604.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpboO8UlB8LG8BXvW1xgwkdjq6xpkFoqQpYD7NJi8tHRJzbJs7kegA8X3ZCvM4OKv2-dEnqkXbM68-ihidIVsHkIdeOxtr5EdCMnDPkzsWotVuNWH7lpeU22VjdN3w0A836SkejzCDJ6m3zvqwyLab-aQwysV-i1H1y-0cRh4KX9IxmPIZRs9mnqcbPXA/s1209/20230806_150628.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpboO8UlB8LG8BXvW1xgwkdjq6xpkFoqQpYD7NJi8tHRJzbJs7kegA8X3ZCvM4OKv2-dEnqkXbM68-ihidIVsHkIdeOxtr5EdCMnDPkzsWotVuNWH7lpeU22VjdN3w0A836SkejzCDJ6m3zvqwyLab-aQwysV-i1H1y-0cRh4KX9IxmPIZRs9mnqcbPXA/s320/20230806_150628.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFubgLIkjGEoL0fm9lwF-TOEn6CyZQQ0VF-V9WIwUPF4GkWz846_UoZ5tEVuYzAmLjcx6po4Q6myas3KNbfwG-i52I8sAI-kN7c_wXyrgem6raLJTg18I8u2lEj0viwVqnsT9Kdg37GWagQSgPf6z05LaVFaMztDcY7k7JPa1ha5nZNg3kws_QZ-M4SBc/s1209/20230806_150712.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFubgLIkjGEoL0fm9lwF-TOEn6CyZQQ0VF-V9WIwUPF4GkWz846_UoZ5tEVuYzAmLjcx6po4Q6myas3KNbfwG-i52I8sAI-kN7c_wXyrgem6raLJTg18I8u2lEj0viwVqnsT9Kdg37GWagQSgPf6z05LaVFaMztDcY7k7JPa1ha5nZNg3kws_QZ-M4SBc/s320/20230806_150712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzeht0lzNurfArVtWA4taDCLwKz-FrBWB1EHGaZjbA2EMaOuajByHghbURgZFLGdad7bTPRY3Z01fizWKKMTDsjEIaQFIUxUqqbLGtBYH1nnrXhLJnykj8JFVb0PGioZVBF7skkfIXkJddmfK86GWJZKdsuczAeDwUXKFPr6-XRaWngPuaaB8QOrkCV60/s1209/20230806_150718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzeht0lzNurfArVtWA4taDCLwKz-FrBWB1EHGaZjbA2EMaOuajByHghbURgZFLGdad7bTPRY3Z01fizWKKMTDsjEIaQFIUxUqqbLGtBYH1nnrXhLJnykj8JFVb0PGioZVBF7skkfIXkJddmfK86GWJZKdsuczAeDwUXKFPr6-XRaWngPuaaB8QOrkCV60/s320/20230806_150718.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUg0K9ZIGW5sACnC2DTXSQEIRNTyw2x_q2FWULHAmashZIx_fsXUH4T-yBUzfcfxjTn_9nbL1BxZemyiMb46o7UzNMOzrYSNkGbYlbnXTiMs2HARrm4RkUvImYcWeqyim0vKCjUlHHFJgXkZZcRXbczszAUE_un2ENNyCOgIkNKwPG8CEjS_QjQjlNP4/s1209/20230806_150856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUg0K9ZIGW5sACnC2DTXSQEIRNTyw2x_q2FWULHAmashZIx_fsXUH4T-yBUzfcfxjTn_9nbL1BxZemyiMb46o7UzNMOzrYSNkGbYlbnXTiMs2HARrm4RkUvImYcWeqyim0vKCjUlHHFJgXkZZcRXbczszAUE_un2ENNyCOgIkNKwPG8CEjS_QjQjlNP4/s320/20230806_150856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVN4bJ1ZEqU8Nj6j6gEyKC09cWGdY8WpFZPtm-BnP0BtOEMH_0UteUQ8DJaAWogKaBkvUmY6l1IDNFugs7HAkmt8LGolnzUeTG-P2yI68MCVPVgy8tITAHBaSjuYH7vD-yN0-Nz7nI1-TxthMSl3EbvZb1RMpeuiyra5l1ueJV4DPNXKBjxM19yG4Ajos/s1209/20230806_151120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVN4bJ1ZEqU8Nj6j6gEyKC09cWGdY8WpFZPtm-BnP0BtOEMH_0UteUQ8DJaAWogKaBkvUmY6l1IDNFugs7HAkmt8LGolnzUeTG-P2yI68MCVPVgy8tITAHBaSjuYH7vD-yN0-Nz7nI1-TxthMSl3EbvZb1RMpeuiyra5l1ueJV4DPNXKBjxM19yG4Ajos/s320/20230806_151120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Concludiamo la visita con il museo del sito, che espone alcuni oggetti ritrovati qui, una ricostruzione in miniatura dell'immensa metropoli che fu e alcuni affreschi originali. All'esterno c'è un orto botanico.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLUDFuNCe3pH-ilbXJv-tjaXpLu7J08m2Uwq0bEFe2bTygJckSpVKgXLX1ObqrJO2XqFji3YHZRktZv4Jx_qE1RS5g7_jF9INjdEj6uGMWfC2k8idxGhbUpMOuwVDcYFroxa_7lpK5NdoEp83S8dBSyfyrw_bUu98nzYZVA0XnXw1pFARKeWzCno2sWrU/s1209/20230806_154345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLUDFuNCe3pH-ilbXJv-tjaXpLu7J08m2Uwq0bEFe2bTygJckSpVKgXLX1ObqrJO2XqFji3YHZRktZv4Jx_qE1RS5g7_jF9INjdEj6uGMWfC2k8idxGhbUpMOuwVDcYFroxa_7lpK5NdoEp83S8dBSyfyrw_bUu98nzYZVA0XnXw1pFARKeWzCno2sWrU/s320/20230806_154345.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCMgW631rtd9lIikbgSFKpTTPY4xnNT-nwcHqw5KrBr_Qd699pUR4ohQ8hZQSN9WMkZZkQZFaAJv2nADSIqUBNg06jJ4XJk-9IU9buLCh9-A73lkdC9Qw1AJq3Wf9qvqS6YmxLLLnVVcX6rc5eMDJDyhYj2x183RW9CqNTaMMTpithnesNbXdE-NBL1E/s1209/20230806_155413.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCMgW631rtd9lIikbgSFKpTTPY4xnNT-nwcHqw5KrBr_Qd699pUR4ohQ8hZQSN9WMkZZkQZFaAJv2nADSIqUBNg06jJ4XJk-9IU9buLCh9-A73lkdC9Qw1AJq3Wf9qvqS6YmxLLLnVVcX6rc5eMDJDyhYj2x183RW9CqNTaMMTpithnesNbXdE-NBL1E/s320/20230806_155413.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdfxp4fHJWlmdKMMZkO-ps2s4s6vRO8wkMXNhDFR8Yivh48nQCS7liXiZCTmcierzcR8LZchWj59OhPCi3AuJ4ocdnq8FeI2nJ-lOmaMN6nU_6W_3FqCu-Yv7XStUS6fOGQyvtM1P7aPDtKo5epLoZrEP2nFbJDLhx1wR4N-XAnJ4J7nXYw68-9aMcxM/s1209/20230806_155540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdfxp4fHJWlmdKMMZkO-ps2s4s6vRO8wkMXNhDFR8Yivh48nQCS7liXiZCTmcierzcR8LZchWj59OhPCi3AuJ4ocdnq8FeI2nJ-lOmaMN6nU_6W_3FqCu-Yv7XStUS6fOGQyvtM1P7aPDtKo5epLoZrEP2nFbJDLhx1wR4N-XAnJ4J7nXYw68-9aMcxM/s320/20230806_155540.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo un ultimo saluto alla Piramide del sole, che cambia volto con il mutare della luce, ci mettiamo in coda per prendere il pullman che ci riporti a Città del Messico. C'è un addetto alla fila, che è eterogenea quanto basta, dalla coppietta con dreadlocks e dilatatori, ai venditori di platano fritto e chicharrones che han finito il turno, al perro cansado.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-o502ebcKkjS_VY_tyhjZLcYZY7AC0LRFU4JPrO7EhDEOopJVCfoOzwhPASRFDh9SXjc38KidK7gXDafqgEiSmMzTq7BpM8Wc5zMYLIgIOG1vn9g9Rp0laUuWbN-06J5PtSrywjFGFc0BfZQUpP4I2PS2gMRyzdnXfhpCVLXX_qZpBN36r4WeiRlNuGU/s1209/20230806_163733.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-o502ebcKkjS_VY_tyhjZLcYZY7AC0LRFU4JPrO7EhDEOopJVCfoOzwhPASRFDh9SXjc38KidK7gXDafqgEiSmMzTq7BpM8Wc5zMYLIgIOG1vn9g9Rp0laUuWbN-06J5PtSrywjFGFc0BfZQUpP4I2PS2gMRyzdnXfhpCVLXX_qZpBN36r4WeiRlNuGU/s320/20230806_163733.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Torniamo nella capitale sotto un cielo cupo, accolti da una copia della Lupita. Riprendiamo la metro (che ha i simboli delle fermate, oltrechè i nomi, perchè non è così scontato che tutti sappiano leggere) e andiamo a informarci sui trasporti per l'avventura di domani. Scaleremo il Paso de Cortés!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJYYcXGem446y5juSnqHIfw9z-qCkyW006Ql6K1ZjZ0BmBPoQI0c2a8Wl9n2UqkCQgyDBmb5vFg0S_45fB-7DEoTYHNyYIYNPBp6SnpNx2G0qgFmst9lJo9cNXYdg7ibKQxBosf6GRF-ya1T4TbMBMk66K_9deZH3DfnrIdcc92VtfoFwgh4I_G7KZc0/s1209/20230806_175410.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJYYcXGem446y5juSnqHIfw9z-qCkyW006Ql6K1ZjZ0BmBPoQI0c2a8Wl9n2UqkCQgyDBmb5vFg0S_45fB-7DEoTYHNyYIYNPBp6SnpNx2G0qgFmst9lJo9cNXYdg7ibKQxBosf6GRF-ya1T4TbMBMk66K_9deZH3DfnrIdcc92VtfoFwgh4I_G7KZc0/s320/20230806_175410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcI0Ao6DGDlJqd_gZq6FiCD7hrrAgPDkcrto8Smw6B0yxVL48vsqJre8WbaK_Zkf59Q6kpZeaZpMFIb_NzeiZPTqyTt0YxxS9aRADO9VJjM9J3IdY3W1Ttru1lrptWMpTV7OZKdbJYJNXZjIyRKntJVK2oOE2mLrarkXAny_KkfMZCEKEonW2F0SyTpw/s1209/20230806_175415.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcI0Ao6DGDlJqd_gZq6FiCD7hrrAgPDkcrto8Smw6B0yxVL48vsqJre8WbaK_Zkf59Q6kpZeaZpMFIb_NzeiZPTqyTt0YxxS9aRADO9VJjM9J3IdY3W1Ttru1lrptWMpTV7OZKdbJYJNXZjIyRKntJVK2oOE2mLrarkXAny_KkfMZCEKEonW2F0SyTpw/s320/20230806_175415.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5P1TagQeg54qmTXP_vPHt8pj8ufrn61k21Y4KJqAoifiT6nz2v3_zRh0UyiXzcKmZ2HCZjRIfqUrB0yKLtf8feAW_RyeVrBRylsLz4K3Iiijz-LAEI5JCdta7hSXyDJCW3iScuaegb_7HKy8AWuzfzpjDOMoCrLNot0jSAHTCs-1Di9-FiJwlQvQgJYA/s1209/20230806_181842.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5P1TagQeg54qmTXP_vPHt8pj8ufrn61k21Y4KJqAoifiT6nz2v3_zRh0UyiXzcKmZ2HCZjRIfqUrB0yKLtf8feAW_RyeVrBRylsLz4K3Iiijz-LAEI5JCdta7hSXyDJCW3iScuaegb_7HKy8AWuzfzpjDOMoCrLNot0jSAHTCs-1Di9-FiJwlQvQgJYA/s320/20230806_181842.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHTyBQKL5xWv8wykCKHwIqvpRvGshVLN3BnlzOcJHp46V2OAGkuIYhklj0KbjH8rIb9TvqOBR0ghc7rYAsspxq-v0kIVwuqv2MwEo-aUGr410XW6QHX-_KZP-FJXroC0yvRT0Gv7ZK4xkS40u1a8qxgZatJjy9hVVPPc3aUPm0AZ8CVt9My6MA_gtmiI/s1209/20230806_182215.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHTyBQKL5xWv8wykCKHwIqvpRvGshVLN3BnlzOcJHp46V2OAGkuIYhklj0KbjH8rIb9TvqOBR0ghc7rYAsspxq-v0kIVwuqv2MwEo-aUGr410XW6QHX-_KZP-FJXroC0yvRT0Gv7ZK4xkS40u1a8qxgZatJjy9hVVPPc3aUPm0AZ8CVt9My6MA_gtmiI/s320/20230806_182215.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">qualcosa mi dice che c'è una festa gay-goth</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Stanchissimi, bruciati dal sole e affamati torniamo in albergo, dove ci attende una cena aggratis offerta dallo staff per far chiacchierare (e bere) gli ospiti, tutto nel rooftop con dj set e luci soffuse. Cosa si vuole di più?<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yHZof7W6M-h8wk3bPCcwzEh-WoVbbVTBylkU1cRa2u94KR7CLZdlctuXTzmB3fUCFwTZN3yG7vUs-Ber3Kyx1LDp4tLEyWsNbBCFhX_IeSR9-HkdOEow-23R9BzaO3W34hwG1aV1aguYhqX3AjOZkW-13gZCnO8axGooj8DlrmVMzr9p5HYDpPwlR54/s1209/20230806_201232.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yHZof7W6M-h8wk3bPCcwzEh-WoVbbVTBylkU1cRa2u94KR7CLZdlctuXTzmB3fUCFwTZN3yG7vUs-Ber3Kyx1LDp4tLEyWsNbBCFhX_IeSR9-HkdOEow-23R9BzaO3W34hwG1aV1aguYhqX3AjOZkW-13gZCnO8axGooj8DlrmVMzr9p5HYDpPwlR54/s320/20230806_201232.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjDz7vknGtjfk9xISke10EHpkrBMjiyToeaH7qdpIzeAiWbNhWkcZSfgAdx2sy2s9IAhhXfr6G5jRc0egXjc4keb-TvSHnxB2oqTrLCibkLbpt4tDf1VcOQNLTX_eQFV7Y58orEum1G3X-GyURH0hBe5_ryrppCBOGe7lLXkfsabnw4V0VkwkPk9dpOVk/s1209/20230806_201236.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjDz7vknGtjfk9xISke10EHpkrBMjiyToeaH7qdpIzeAiWbNhWkcZSfgAdx2sy2s9IAhhXfr6G5jRc0egXjc4keb-TvSHnxB2oqTrLCibkLbpt4tDf1VcOQNLTX_eQFV7Y58orEum1G3X-GyURH0hBe5_ryrppCBOGe7lLXkfsabnw4V0VkwkPk9dpOVk/s320/20230806_201236.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Domani torneremo in sella, perchè noi abbiamo quella malattia lì, che anche nei giorni di pausa e riposo dobbiamo scalare le pendici dei due vulcani più alti del Messico, seconda e terza vetta del paese, l'Itzaccihuatl e sua maestà il Popocatepetl.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>7/8<br /><div>Anello Città del Messico-Paso de Cortés (3690m)</div></div><div>62km</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">"Nella mitologia azteca, Popocatépetl era un guerriero che amava Iztaccíhuatl. Il padre di Iztaccíhuatl lo mandò in guerra, ad Oaxaca, promettendogli sua figlia in sposa al suo ritorno (cosa che pareva improbabile ndr.). A Iztaccíhuatl venne detto che il suo amore era stato ucciso e lei morì dal dolore. Quando Popocatépetl ritornò e seppe di averla perduta, morì di dolore anche lui. Gli dei li coprirono di neve e li trasformarono in montagne. La montagna Iztaccihuatl venne chiamata "La donna addormentata" perché ha le sembianze di una giovane sdraiata sulla schiena. Lui divenne il vulcano Popocatépetl, che faceva piovere fuoco sulla Terra con furia per la rabbia di aver perduto la propria amata." (da Wikipedia)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Scalare il Popo è un'idea che mi frulla in testa da quando ho iniziato a preparare la traccia di questo viaggio. Non solo è la seconda vetta del paese, dopo il Pico Orizaba, ma è anche un vulcano attivo che non smette mai di far tremare cieli e terra, con gran preoccupazione di chi ci vive vicino (anche perchè gli episodi catastrofici, nel corso della storia, non sono mancati. La sua attività è costantemente monitorata perchè un'eruzione metterebbe a repentaglio la vita di 26 milioni di persone).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quando poi ho scoperto che esiste una strada che porta ad un punto panoramico proprio in mezzo tra Popo e Itza, vulcano gemello ma spento, a 3700m di quota, ho capito che quello sarebbe stato il nostro balcone privilegiato sulle vette innevate e fumanti. Se poi ci si mette pure che quel luogo è il cosiddetto Passo di Cortés, ovvero il punto da cui il conquistador spagnolo passò nel 1519 con i suoi uomini per entrare nella Valle del Messico e conquistare Tenochtitlan... Non manca niente! Storia, natura, una sana dose di fatica, bellezza in ogni angolo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il passo è confine tra tre stati: Messico, Puebla e Morelos. Dal versante orientale la strada non è asfaltata e risulta quasi impercorribile in bici, se non in MTB e scarichi. Dal lato occidentale, invece, la strada è asfaltata e si arrampica a curve e tornanti nella riserva naturale che protegge fauna e flora locali. Quindi, per semplicità logistica, ho deciso di organizzare così l'ascesa: una volta a Città del Messico prendere un mezzo che porti noi e le bici (ma non i bagagli, lasciati in ostello) ad Amecameca, cittadina da cui inizia la salita al passo che sta a 40km dalla capitale. Una volta lì, pedalare i 30km fino in cima, scendere come i pazzi senza consumare troppo le pastiglie dei freni, riprendere il bus e tornare a Città del Messico. Facile, no?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Pedro, l'host ex campione nazionale di ciclismo su strada, voleva venire con noi ma non può prendersi tutta la giornata di ferie. Ergo non ci dà il passaggio ventilato, e ci arrangiamo secondo il nostro piano originario. Dopo colazione raggiungiamo la stazione TAPO, e pedalare quei 4km in centro è sempre un'esperienza da brivido. Stavolta finiamo anche in un vialone dove le prostitute attendono i clienti sul marciapiede, ciascuna sotto al suo ombrellino parasole. E' l'inizio del famigerato quartiere Tepito, uno dei più pericolosi, almeno di fama. Poi infiliamo i soliti mercati malditi, ma alla fine eccoci in stazione. Facciamo i biglietti e, qualche minuto dopo, l'autobus della Volcanes (giustamente) è lì. Come sempre caricare le bici è un carnevale, ma, come sempre, riusciamo nell'impresa grazie anche alla forza bruta di Gigi, che carica tutti nel bagaglio posteriore senza nemmeno smontare una virgola.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4rkPaIkm5EjeZwHymgGaVFdRt4DFzH9qeJTQKHoIkLw17mPnAoy9hkhTtqYF4B8Vue21VhsEaoGnn6G-D604aDp7TPagJhAMTv8-Ifm2UjYirB5Ci8CzMlNpTpmmP3kMt5k0Tz6-eBjZ2HTtVw5bg-jHoOBcr5pOLDgzXs0zxInB6Bk8MF_DUvqPG5tc/s1209/20230807_095507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4rkPaIkm5EjeZwHymgGaVFdRt4DFzH9qeJTQKHoIkLw17mPnAoy9hkhTtqYF4B8Vue21VhsEaoGnn6G-D604aDp7TPagJhAMTv8-Ifm2UjYirB5Ci8CzMlNpTpmmP3kMt5k0Tz6-eBjZ2HTtVw5bg-jHoOBcr5pOLDgzXs0zxInB6Bk8MF_DUvqPG5tc/s320/20230807_095507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRUZ3_BR5DjJD2MyjedqGb-irvmc7QMpl-2hfhqj_RzVSfmKcOHSCCsaJ6AzucD0Dueaw4CBYCDI4oHcSQTkrevvVDjVHp8o7YxmhRRWuCFpmwgyWQBqh2cm-CVs_3Dd1pCKiATdlzkASmeAsOKk8XKC1_bo93E7580QRzgy2v6p-zLGoBTVo7k6qXbAw/s1209/20230807_095511.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRUZ3_BR5DjJD2MyjedqGb-irvmc7QMpl-2hfhqj_RzVSfmKcOHSCCsaJ6AzucD0Dueaw4CBYCDI4oHcSQTkrevvVDjVHp8o7YxmhRRWuCFpmwgyWQBqh2cm-CVs_3Dd1pCKiATdlzkASmeAsOKk8XKC1_bo93E7580QRzgy2v6p-zLGoBTVo7k6qXbAw/s320/20230807_095511.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfQhaWkuGMe55Bv5BZHm80VXxbJDbSIwDFE9wJt_ve8wbpVVdf_cb2pdCm7eJJnLisr-4Ka2WjMZwFthqlx1GsjlHTW8d1p-Go2a8QloPbqWdDs9mz3lzQR3URhCekq9S_4BcLtjSUbmYab49Dr9ZyFpjhQHJm2edg_2oliEHPM7nXYrY-6q3V-BCGj0A/s1209/20230807_095516.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfQhaWkuGMe55Bv5BZHm80VXxbJDbSIwDFE9wJt_ve8wbpVVdf_cb2pdCm7eJJnLisr-4Ka2WjMZwFthqlx1GsjlHTW8d1p-Go2a8QloPbqWdDs9mz3lzQR3URhCekq9S_4BcLtjSUbmYab49Dr9ZyFpjhQHJm2edg_2oliEHPM7nXYrY-6q3V-BCGj0A/s320/20230807_095516.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Pronti, via. Il viaggio dura un'ora perchè il traffico, fino alla periferia della capitale, è allucinante. Ma noi non abbiamo fretta, è come una gita domenicale di quelle in cui, a casa, di decide di andare a scalare qualche passo alpino. Solo che qui si va a scalare un vulcano attivo!</div><div>Una volta giunti ad Amecameca dobbiamo litigare con l'autista, che non ci lascia il tempo di scaricare le bici e riparte con noi dentro al bagagliaio fino all'ombelico. Ma, a parte questo dettaglio che rischiava di farci finire in due all'ospedale, siamo gasati e pronti a partire.</div><div>Amecameca è una cittadina di fondazione preispanica, incasinata il giusto, rurale abbastanza, stracolma di cani randagi non troppo aggressivi. Una volta fuori dall'abitato la strada inizia a salire, prima tra campi di mais sconfinati, poi sui fianchi delle montagne, verdissimi, profumatissimi di muschio e resina, coperti di boschi fitti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPKcguHklbwQOr9Y3Kt5LWXT9Uzj0--EVfTgALCl_cq1N4wzeWRIFty_hApBZzSu4wb3Hb_FDfvRymc-smsgsVubipkXJRB6LHOxp57yexCAsvfssJrMc7jmcW5yxhYfO3PQGIpeLfJatksr2XAkl-dhfF1AvUV405n3AvQVHSjaqoosT09S1oEveVnzc/s1209/20230807_124336.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPKcguHklbwQOr9Y3Kt5LWXT9Uzj0--EVfTgALCl_cq1N4wzeWRIFty_hApBZzSu4wb3Hb_FDfvRymc-smsgsVubipkXJRB6LHOxp57yexCAsvfssJrMc7jmcW5yxhYfO3PQGIpeLfJatksr2XAkl-dhfF1AvUV405n3AvQVHSjaqoosT09S1oEveVnzc/s320/20230807_124336.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YkoMDcEuYVMfNgGFaLvN45UYDltKqEe3b-0NtoAfV-r99IAm4rGVyMB-yCGb18HBOMEAuIPd1Bsk2Z7hQNWbjvmKVAoUBRPiEEVSXkRKnt5DqFrO8-PcxUBLg6-9xUZV75QATBqRr-K_NRUZMhj5c8Y_xSD5CykUCFb0hGkt6oogoSWef7T0gqIaFKU/s1209/20230807_124439.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YkoMDcEuYVMfNgGFaLvN45UYDltKqEe3b-0NtoAfV-r99IAm4rGVyMB-yCGb18HBOMEAuIPd1Bsk2Z7hQNWbjvmKVAoUBRPiEEVSXkRKnt5DqFrO8-PcxUBLg6-9xUZV75QATBqRr-K_NRUZMhj5c8Y_xSD5CykUCFb0hGkt6oogoSWef7T0gqIaFKU/s320/20230807_124439.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">davanti a noi la sagoma del Popo</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIO7mynJTlLV2YG5OZlhCjFQDHtgajNGLRkrxVRS9Gql8v_pUwVYgnL2DVc3IjofktwV6rghagmgivKc1bIyyT966ospbf_WBuslA8xYmEoDAthhQILPjKso4BPW4Ph4WIlq_FB1Ke6ityNJiFkFeMhXmfHgIXZECPS-RZFVo9NdspZxhfVQsf-vNQSF8/s1209/20230807_124601.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIO7mynJTlLV2YG5OZlhCjFQDHtgajNGLRkrxVRS9Gql8v_pUwVYgnL2DVc3IjofktwV6rghagmgivKc1bIyyT966ospbf_WBuslA8xYmEoDAthhQILPjKso4BPW4Ph4WIlq_FB1Ke6ityNJiFkFeMhXmfHgIXZECPS-RZFVo9NdspZxhfVQsf-vNQSF8/s320/20230807_124601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Leggende locali narrano che queste foreste siano abitate da creature misteriose, i Cuauhtepoztles, che han corpo di bambino e testa mostruosa di anziano con denti affilati. Sono protettori degli alberi e degli animali, dell'acqua e del fuoco dei vulcani, e si nascondono tra rocce e tronchi per manifestarsi solo a chi si avventura nel folto del bosco. Contadini e taglialegna assicurano di averli incontrati, scambiandoli inizialmente per ragazzini, per poi accorgersi delle fattezze orrende. Secondo il mito preispanico, sono bambini morti che non hanno attraversato il Mictlàn: le loro anime sono ancora tra i vivi, ma i corpi non crescono con il passare degli anni. Loro vivono già nel tempo dell'eternità. Alcuni sono aggressivi e pericolosi, altri giocherelloni. Noi, per evitare qualsiasi incontro di fantasmi di bambini con la testa da vegiasso, tiriamo dritti.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaULClsr9XAQuRIra8YTvChOdw9o8XW4QE15J2vTz9kuv8Goyk8xsipbAgv4UqnbH-mTHMGwSJfCu5DuCD93IRFY8JaXlA70bPJ-J71kgzwrs72NGpNOXy6zu6Er3Hho-Yc9nGDPVn2CQkRjnLF985fLhu891lB9Ml4LFALO7mGF9aet4JpSzKL54DKMk/s1209/20230807_124908.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaULClsr9XAQuRIra8YTvChOdw9o8XW4QE15J2vTz9kuv8Goyk8xsipbAgv4UqnbH-mTHMGwSJfCu5DuCD93IRFY8JaXlA70bPJ-J71kgzwrs72NGpNOXy6zu6Er3Hho-Yc9nGDPVn2CQkRjnLF985fLhu891lB9Ml4LFALO7mGF9aet4JpSzKL54DKMk/s320/20230807_124908.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ruta volcanes</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHuPMLJ-EG2tlvTT8fdMZs7YUL56ETdMOly8UGXx1yYatMsvSASOqxe5_P64jJzShxTwjiWkvxAi68SxuHY7dY930pb7Exztcs-EAKIpcfi9efdH-6xUpT57P0Wj51ltkTuTSIB-_46i5CtPZdEzF7zw64KZLT5PTaTmSgwJA14xAN6OzkESZUVTtItM/s1209/20230807_130443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHuPMLJ-EG2tlvTT8fdMZs7YUL56ETdMOly8UGXx1yYatMsvSASOqxe5_P64jJzShxTwjiWkvxAi68SxuHY7dY930pb7Exztcs-EAKIpcfi9efdH-6xUpT57P0Wj51ltkTuTSIB-_46i5CtPZdEzF7zw64KZLT5PTaTmSgwJA14xAN6OzkESZUVTtItM/s320/20230807_130443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6e29nb8xJcdeLWwLoXyTz1X5tYFXznl9rjo_hv8UFreBJzGpmzfB-8xSHtOhNlKOhpYN-pxng4E5E5QnNsqOD3Hpx8zQS_VwhC3cnlxIHMu2Nxe5GaQWpISznm4XidNz9BnGxWz3sZMV0kj2VF_w1fX7S8I2SQE2b-qS_hqBREwQIcY0sBR0BKcORL4/s1209/20230807_133447.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6e29nb8xJcdeLWwLoXyTz1X5tYFXznl9rjo_hv8UFreBJzGpmzfB-8xSHtOhNlKOhpYN-pxng4E5E5QnNsqOD3Hpx8zQS_VwhC3cnlxIHMu2Nxe5GaQWpISznm4XidNz9BnGxWz3sZMV0kj2VF_w1fX7S8I2SQE2b-qS_hqBREwQIcY0sBR0BKcORL4/s320/20230807_133447.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nella prima metà della salita si incontrano spesso capanne e strutture in legno, quasi tutte abbandonate, alcune, poche, sono comedor che offrono zuppe e bevande ai passanti; se segnalano per il filo di fumo che esce dai camini delle stufe a legna o carbone, che va a mescolarsi alle nubi basse che circondano le pendici dei monti, dando al bosco un'aria spettrale.</div><div>Per fortuna, superati i 3000m di quota, la nebbia si dirada e il sole torna a illuminare queste alture di incredibile bellezza, mentre davanti a noi si vede sua maestà il Popo, che ogni tanto ruggisce, ogni tanto emette uno sbuffo chiaro, dall'alto dei suoi 5426m. Le pendici brulle sono circondate da vapore e null'altro: è vietato scalarlo, dopo alcuni incidenti mortali che han visto protagonisti incauti alpinisti inceneriti. Per altro, prima di salire qui, ho controllato il bollettino che viene pubblicato ogni mattina sul sito del governo. Il semaforo è giallo, allerta media: verde non è mai, perchè l'attività non manca, ma non è rosso.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5V3-5azM2e45klIA_avMZnT0iI4dviNgQ2jTWJPIFApd9jkvtt-SpvQYyhrNdXSQyOXYethkJILASczIlrsAiLEjQ56PBCNw9jsi-aXMmTD5QjHaCootGzQ6liK584Ya_P1xZM7FHuCocem6dPF8HGbCALWnC9Lg-UrH1IwCRKEDozoJY_2U-GxUWEaA/s1209/20230807_140112.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5V3-5azM2e45klIA_avMZnT0iI4dviNgQ2jTWJPIFApd9jkvtt-SpvQYyhrNdXSQyOXYethkJILASczIlrsAiLEjQ56PBCNw9jsi-aXMmTD5QjHaCootGzQ6liK584Ya_P1xZM7FHuCocem6dPF8HGbCALWnC9Lg-UrH1IwCRKEDozoJY_2U-GxUWEaA/s320/20230807_140112.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZwabROzYfecuYhBWevRZdqZ9ay2QuOzFX5kIoSs2MLCLz5gZYXZGTOXa7B9wXC8khLo4hMKnXoU9t_Y8-JT-U9FU-Qy24DL5QXcDns0s2AygJxzfI4LanLsIs37s61PN_z-UMObi4_U8S-CWV4VROCHiXtA2LgALEO0HBsa0kEq2M-uirvekpx_9-us/s1209/20230807_140117.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZwabROzYfecuYhBWevRZdqZ9ay2QuOzFX5kIoSs2MLCLz5gZYXZGTOXa7B9wXC8khLo4hMKnXoU9t_Y8-JT-U9FU-Qy24DL5QXcDns0s2AygJxzfI4LanLsIs37s61PN_z-UMObi4_U8S-CWV4VROCHiXtA2LgALEO0HBsa0kEq2M-uirvekpx_9-us/s320/20230807_140117.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpx2o8M2gYklOkzl7j1CQhJd0RBGWE0upnWQDTW43esQZ4LQcWPVLfGyyFZ-JFoapGVX2b3T8UhkRa-wGx2vIHmnWjnx1kQya28m5ASLdZELRsW2Xh2dIX3IoliWRTxSRvsgON9M3InClE4XHnieo9hxa1G86zq0P30UNrjdfugHwUWD9AJd187i2HLpY/s1209/20230807_140216.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpx2o8M2gYklOkzl7j1CQhJd0RBGWE0upnWQDTW43esQZ4LQcWPVLfGyyFZ-JFoapGVX2b3T8UhkRa-wGx2vIHmnWjnx1kQya28m5ASLdZELRsW2Xh2dIX3IoliWRTxSRvsgON9M3InClE4XHnieo9hxa1G86zq0P30UNrjdfugHwUWD9AJd187i2HLpY/s320/20230807_140216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdwjeL3HUQGP7m0tkkY3RNo86bveFO3IZcSjMRCHRfzVVMzWh8xiCV5JQSHCBZLJRGM7FW5voP95cqeJbFptnRNSZdxE95H8I7ZkocsYtQj5y1OdYjwOVrMLPmNBbveYCOb7HeQw64bYcUjMhEPbyUz3fDQYaFZCzY8eyx7Q3k8N3kSTdAmfc_OffAScY/s1210/20230807_140236.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdwjeL3HUQGP7m0tkkY3RNo86bveFO3IZcSjMRCHRfzVVMzWh8xiCV5JQSHCBZLJRGM7FW5voP95cqeJbFptnRNSZdxE95H8I7ZkocsYtQj5y1OdYjwOVrMLPmNBbveYCOb7HeQw64bYcUjMhEPbyUz3fDQYaFZCzY8eyx7Q3k8N3kSTdAmfc_OffAScY/s320/20230807_140236.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A me, senza borse, pare di volare, anche se l'aria si fa più sottile. Nulla a che vedere con i 5000m del Perù, ma la differenza si sente, sotto sforzo. Gigi, invece, è partito a freddo e soffre, ma non molla. Proseguiamo spediti, desiderosi di raggiungere il passo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjazzfywh8QYQUJAlDsM6S_LBm63MQ09eK8UdAo0wE6Fo54qvwFehR5yuOcxhcGPAFC_d4s4ECLxoMTV5b2oT-qcqROTtJQqQhRvJgSLndH9UQXLdMnZh74oGN6yZTDNZc2Xjb_8AfUjBeOnkFnG_Tmf_-wDm8YCtyTUyE_xVrVl39MWOuVoQWbbkkovDw/s1209/20230807_140349.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjazzfywh8QYQUJAlDsM6S_LBm63MQ09eK8UdAo0wE6Fo54qvwFehR5yuOcxhcGPAFC_d4s4ECLxoMTV5b2oT-qcqROTtJQqQhRvJgSLndH9UQXLdMnZh74oGN6yZTDNZc2Xjb_8AfUjBeOnkFnG_Tmf_-wDm8YCtyTUyE_xVrVl39MWOuVoQWbbkkovDw/s320/20230807_140349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuDAt1ZEO5l-mcNywPAP6Ie7PuY_JRuSiPcxSvCYBVoIY9cJ1GiRIG4k7FlMsGEmXhsvpf9vYozPDTMWrVitxjn8bFMZfxI-t47jxpkL1hf9KwBAZ6Fdh1vqXbf5X7qvZmdA7CP62afRgHX87xMGNR-hxDrbXywEwFF829ejpdXTFilaGZQOK6RvtqbHg/s1209/20230807_140413.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuDAt1ZEO5l-mcNywPAP6Ie7PuY_JRuSiPcxSvCYBVoIY9cJ1GiRIG4k7FlMsGEmXhsvpf9vYozPDTMWrVitxjn8bFMZfxI-t47jxpkL1hf9KwBAZ6Fdh1vqXbf5X7qvZmdA7CP62afRgHX87xMGNR-hxDrbXywEwFF829ejpdXTFilaGZQOK6RvtqbHg/s320/20230807_140413.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci compare davanti anche la vetta dell'Itzaccihuatl, 5215m. Se Popocatepetl significa montagna che fuma, Itza significa donna bianca, perchè la cima brulla e innevata pare il fianco di una ragazza coricata. E' emozionante trovarsi a pedalare in mezzo a uno spettacolo così. Le immagini raccolte per via, a fiato corto, con il cuore che pompa sangue alle gambe, rimangono impresse in modo indelebile sulla pelle e sotto. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9jTPm2Sj2diKAW5Yd6TWRMShSy2hgYCVq2RAoalrrV-tik7jyHndeyXYStJgz2fDEMWvqjjxeJWdmwGHANe27VfNIg0oEHtAWGHrtY-OMn7fIdLlLcsIto55OjUiyJRg_gXCDt1dcokAqda42rXbTL9iqT6qtOZFQ5ZIvs02DPXsQJ5aHOVMWR-Wn40/s1209/20230807_141234.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9jTPm2Sj2diKAW5Yd6TWRMShSy2hgYCVq2RAoalrrV-tik7jyHndeyXYStJgz2fDEMWvqjjxeJWdmwGHANe27VfNIg0oEHtAWGHrtY-OMn7fIdLlLcsIto55OjUiyJRg_gXCDt1dcokAqda42rXbTL9iqT6qtOZFQ5ZIvs02DPXsQJ5aHOVMWR-Wn40/s320/20230807_141234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0RFqp9gLPh__yPFJ--gZzHRXtXxlryaRUuY33NPjMWjljk1PFnY7uMNhojrirEKb6bPu7JmoErG78mnJ37CLjRHOVjnHNNttdIMhyDguBBuENtQ6mpc94Cuzqm9JLqxQlZuD5Xd-Wnx452EsrtDZyrAIDAr3t8LoK0A6sVwMvHNKC7LLcpsF0-e7cv2o/s1209/20230807_141243.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0RFqp9gLPh__yPFJ--gZzHRXtXxlryaRUuY33NPjMWjljk1PFnY7uMNhojrirEKb6bPu7JmoErG78mnJ37CLjRHOVjnHNNttdIMhyDguBBuENtQ6mpc94Cuzqm9JLqxQlZuD5Xd-Wnx452EsrtDZyrAIDAr3t8LoK0A6sVwMvHNKC7LLcpsF0-e7cv2o/s320/20230807_141243.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakWMPgBFdoj0jlRj3KwTegocLsJvcKkbJNRbHH4iDNyuJCcZlOSngkCvqtMpZKvK0-pL5vjMZvaVK8IdqEAbdP4iq-6-0wjuOtIRua-0FQck6LJ1wE4tuF3qWn0Dkx81E8YWkNMpXpTzeXM6Mk16E7WSlKyAWe3YsPHRFGQArXM5FoRtlkX_W491Va7A/s1209/20230807_142739.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakWMPgBFdoj0jlRj3KwTegocLsJvcKkbJNRbHH4iDNyuJCcZlOSngkCvqtMpZKvK0-pL5vjMZvaVK8IdqEAbdP4iq-6-0wjuOtIRua-0FQck6LJ1wE4tuF3qWn0Dkx81E8YWkNMpXpTzeXM6Mk16E7WSlKyAWe3YsPHRFGQArXM5FoRtlkX_W491Va7A/s320/20230807_142739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In un soffio raggiungiamo il passo. Fin troppo presto, forse. Il cartello che ne porta il nome è completamente ricoperto di adesivi di ciclisti, motociclisti e gruppi sportivi messicani e non. Alle sue spalle si trova un monumento che ricorda il passaggio di Cortés, mentre ai lati si possono ammirare, ora da vicino, le vette dei due vulcani. Dal lato del Popo la via è chiusa. Verso l'Itza, invece, ci si può spingere su sentieri e pareti da arrampicare fino alla cima. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYzG6pN3NCvdNR5DiCnWi3nEDrMQD0aOAJgVWloW5_vwYgOoi_bzlufeooHzh5Fblb7X6H8AGq7uX2khLe9NK2D-dFwALU9WNqJCXisR7gUpXuzqWMO1B4JZsoERSrPN9DOUPVYiu5-w2cFsARK5LHm24u8_7KxFP_FWxJrj5bvFVzRh8aY31UsJf0EA/s1209/20230807_143859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYzG6pN3NCvdNR5DiCnWi3nEDrMQD0aOAJgVWloW5_vwYgOoi_bzlufeooHzh5Fblb7X6H8AGq7uX2khLe9NK2D-dFwALU9WNqJCXisR7gUpXuzqWMO1B4JZsoERSrPN9DOUPVYiu5-w2cFsARK5LHm24u8_7KxFP_FWxJrj5bvFVzRh8aY31UsJf0EA/s320/20230807_143859.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXaK2VStvuWiLL7XUUjpRcnmSgVUATFUlhoVz8z_AGGzvM05eLpf-c6ZjhzD47y-7RMWBrDZ4iWqE3XzDNATmXipVX1KTfiIOYx-H_z7JjNxEBFsNdw5ww9oEa0JOfyAo7HkgMUGwvTBvPN54y_dny1tI46i5GEAnZJ9LPWzcCTIzgah4hl1LXeRL6wU/s320/20230807_144433.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE1pO9lZHzj6eREUNqvAz2cuA-edPyAG-rA2YvIsup4hE1RB2LJOy8ctZ3cxb5VOCKkpZmKGIbEdi-95ICAGiF20gP4ZKbUebpq0NfAXeDJuZTBwVz0CTmkwqyMN45q0U48I89IwpGMSgSih8cSR3rQT_Kp5Rb5Z_vaWd85z6rXi4f9K5ZO8rEL98VY10/s1209/20230807_144854.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE1pO9lZHzj6eREUNqvAz2cuA-edPyAG-rA2YvIsup4hE1RB2LJOy8ctZ3cxb5VOCKkpZmKGIbEdi-95ICAGiF20gP4ZKbUebpq0NfAXeDJuZTBwVz0CTmkwqyMN45q0U48I89IwpGMSgSih8cSR3rQT_Kp5Rb5Z_vaWd85z6rXi4f9K5ZO8rEL98VY10/s320/20230807_144854.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv4egCPnsVvmhTJyty1b2bqdNmR2PC_GTqbD3LQKAGl0dOsxFaCD1bQSB6nHHIEAkfqamyeze26bDsng52U0F24439JcBFSux8duleTlxL2W5T2KzQJ7dmpAHZcJEqhmQjECMu6YygcAEYiOAMy3hon8KbOtJAnw34YyVwsBrBPFQWGr4Vfx7MfPPH-rg/s320/20230807_145413.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEGcmY1x8R-9HYaAJfV66653G_9vw5jA73GiOM1cTGbOrcS7igTEzOf3IrpgaRHeGuRlptNdGFxeyjhXETW-T8ebmJlu7yRRlr1flaI6zNDlIMwl1SevitI10KTeOwIvpQLdES1rTwTzhvOGRbE02OLm4vh2I-wEG4Ew__l_Ib4aXQiCMntXoK7rr48j4/s1209/20230807_150311.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEGcmY1x8R-9HYaAJfV66653G_9vw5jA73GiOM1cTGbOrcS7igTEzOf3IrpgaRHeGuRlptNdGFxeyjhXETW-T8ebmJlu7yRRlr1flaI6zNDlIMwl1SevitI10KTeOwIvpQLdES1rTwTzhvOGRbE02OLm4vh2I-wEG4Ew__l_Ib4aXQiCMntXoK7rr48j4/s320/20230807_150311.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_eLBXQJNR9J0lAzWLlTtQf2Wn9ekSVOwPxNLGjByaI9qJFg8r_br78710qmefp9g7IsGBJg-sXDM-xjzspcNmmD82J2J43Cskt7miTMk3OVcmm-2bFdpMIDNMRKe57d7zTLamRKykkOdlDqZGas_9IKrYivjFgLl-KFL34WDUW_Yun7HfzlGSu7F_e_U/s1209/20230807_150336.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_eLBXQJNR9J0lAzWLlTtQf2Wn9ekSVOwPxNLGjByaI9qJFg8r_br78710qmefp9g7IsGBJg-sXDM-xjzspcNmmD82J2J43Cskt7miTMk3OVcmm-2bFdpMIDNMRKe57d7zTLamRKykkOdlDqZGas_9IKrYivjFgLl-KFL34WDUW_Yun7HfzlGSu7F_e_U/s320/20230807_150336.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNAQWyIiSE0u0dIUIfMhBQ9GxvwqN10xzvniVxKHUwKeIXJAfaE56veNJHchYE2e_uG9k9EmyjdGl__pumTcpMFXShFEfgofHVR10RUV4B1PpsD8SumLJb_OkQajs3qHwDZFt3fbOJ_pd3nr9Luy-aX2c-HCtM75L6pxuJqdi8LyMljqsC-NkUbT2efc/s1210/20230807_150427.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNAQWyIiSE0u0dIUIfMhBQ9GxvwqN10xzvniVxKHUwKeIXJAfaE56veNJHchYE2e_uG9k9EmyjdGl__pumTcpMFXShFEfgofHVR10RUV4B1PpsD8SumLJb_OkQajs3qHwDZFt3fbOJ_pd3nr9Luy-aX2c-HCtM75L6pxuJqdi8LyMljqsC-NkUbT2efc/s320/20230807_150427.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Mentre scattiamo le nostre millemila foto celebrative e ci godiamo il panorama mozzafiato, veniamo raggiunti da un omino cotto dal sole, sdentato e vestito di cenci di lana, che porta un cestino di vimini colmo di merendine, cioccolato, e dolcetti vari. Lui sì che ha capito la legge della domanda e dell'offerta! Gli compriamo un po' di snack (che lui si fa pagare profumatamente, ma capirai, le avrà portate su a dorso d'asino), poi mi chiede che ore siano. Capita spesso, qui. Non tutti hanno l'orologio, e non tutti hanno uno smartphone.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Viene il momento di scendere, ma prima dobbiamo coprirci perchè l'aria, qui, a 3700m, è ben fresca. Poi ci tuffiamo di testa verso valle, ed essendo il fondo in buone condizioni, è una goduria di velocità e vento in faccia. Ora che la foschia si è diradata un poco, anche a quote più basse si colgono scorci meravigliosi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAeY1f-g2aX-EaCeTo7FCpq3TplflOyDRzqH56WO0S4O01IknUtx8nbcafFgU1L0Oz_ta1LsnEW-R-AV7HcgdS3yB_jC50euKiPsTuCbj79GjZ2QZ5DcFaO0n8j2SeU8FCR5gKcKuFEViDv01Ty1wsAFRnHf7NzPZloA83ud2pq5T5OPD3fjWsYAaLy5k/s1209/20230807_153827.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAeY1f-g2aX-EaCeTo7FCpq3TplflOyDRzqH56WO0S4O01IknUtx8nbcafFgU1L0Oz_ta1LsnEW-R-AV7HcgdS3yB_jC50euKiPsTuCbj79GjZ2QZ5DcFaO0n8j2SeU8FCR5gKcKuFEViDv01Ty1wsAFRnHf7NzPZloA83ud2pq5T5OPD3fjWsYAaLy5k/s320/20230807_153827.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Torniamo ad Amecameca, praticamente inseguendo il bus che ci passa davanti e caricandoci al volo. Sbarchiamo a Città del Messico abbastanza presto da passare in una agenzia di Aeromexico e chiedere lumi riguardo all'acquisto del trasporto in bici in aereo, per il ritorno, onde evitare i tristi spettacoli dell'andata. Nessuno sa nulla e la risposta è sempre: fate in aeroporto il giorno della partenza. Eh vabe', grazie alla conchiglia strombo emplumada papalotla! Per fortuna Gigi ha i suoi contatti e forse, anche stavolta, ce la caviamo solo con un po' di ansietta.</div><div>Ma ve l'ho detto che ieri a Teotihuacan ho trovato la punta di freccia di ossidiana che desideravo da sempre?</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUf9rG9VaNotL74_uabP2kRYRcFutiNvCcp_NHc8YkkRRgNBgQQl_21XzigaM023zXqKrLVJypu2suHrmhT5cBJ7uzXJjWZvPtWYlf1f6ipE2KiETC3ZgoHEmi340OusKvVGrfoWlM2-HjqR7KaH43Ga1FIn-llbnf97iM6DsNUw6ifiFh1o2GpflEgTQ/s989/20230807_184309.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUf9rG9VaNotL74_uabP2kRYRcFutiNvCcp_NHc8YkkRRgNBgQQl_21XzigaM023zXqKrLVJypu2suHrmhT5cBJ7uzXJjWZvPtWYlf1f6ipE2KiETC3ZgoHEmi340OusKvVGrfoWlM2-HjqR7KaH43Ga1FIn-llbnf97iM6DsNUw6ifiFh1o2GpflEgTQ/s320/20230807_184309.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ceniamo in ostello e anche stasera ci viene offerto un bel piatto di pizza messicana, che noi accompagniamo con zuppa di mais e orzata deliziose. Durante la serata facciamo anche conoscenza di altri ospiti: un ragazzo di Zurigo, docente di musica e laureando in antropologia, nonchè amante della città di Milano, che fa il filo a una ragazza di Amburgo, che sembra David Bowie. Due russi, una giovanissima dottoressa cinese, una ragazza peruviana, che non parla inglese e quindi passa la sera a farmi vedere Tiktok del suo negozio di jeans e delle feste del suo pueblo andino (a me interessano!) e un mio coetaneo norvegese che accompagna la mamma che si è appena iscritta all'università qui a Città del Messico. Mi dice: "E' nell'età in cui si ricominciano a fare le cose pazze... Sono qui a vedere che non siano TROPPO pazze!". Chiacchieriamo del più e del meno, prima di darci la buonanotte in molte lingue e augurarci buona strada. C'è un bel clima, qui al Regina Hostel.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC46dsE1GZoHclomxvJu7ibspX8FljORlznimHDb8LVgF7-_ND28NANxLRDpp6jEvqwjaVX-poDblLYpI__c9BEINYsxhvnMt0VNplu1FicHp1TFhy_ro8_EbbHJA9St7fiZ9WB3THd_7lX16yqdi_wGTVkfDbxVNccXs445fpzLcBy4M6a5pYeCQvfI0/s1209/20230807_204640.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC46dsE1GZoHclomxvJu7ibspX8FljORlznimHDb8LVgF7-_ND28NANxLRDpp6jEvqwjaVX-poDblLYpI__c9BEINYsxhvnMt0VNplu1FicHp1TFhy_ro8_EbbHJA9St7fiZ9WB3THd_7lX16yqdi_wGTVkfDbxVNccXs445fpzLcBy4M6a5pYeCQvfI0/s320/20230807_204640.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>8/8</div><div>Città del Messico - Santiago de Querétaro</div><div><br /></div><div>Lasciare Città del Messico ora che cominciamo ad orientarci e il frastuono iniziale si è trasformato una meravigliosa polifonia, lascia un fondo di tristezza. So che qui potrei stare per settimane, per mesi, e trovare ogni giorno qualcosa di incredibile. Conoscere persone da tutto il mondo, visitare musei e mostre, semplicemente osservare la folla nelle piazze e nei parchi. Andarsene dà l'idea di doversi alzare da tavola con il piatto ancora pieno e la fame in pancia. Ma la strada chiama, e oggi abbiamo un bus che, dalla stazione nord, ci porterà a Santiago de Querétaro, capitale dell'omonimo stato. Ho acquistato il biglietto online, ormai sono una pro! Partiremo alle 15, in modo da avere ancora una mattina libera. C'è un quartiere, a 10km dal centro, che voglio assolutamente esplorare: Coyoacan (luogo del coyote). Qui Cortés stabilì il suo quartier generale dopo la caduta di Tenochtitlan; da tempo la cittadina è stata assorbita nel tessuto urbano della capitale, ma ha conservato il suo spirito più tranquillo, pervaso da arte e controcultura in ogni forma. Ci sono due cose qui che, soprattutto, mi interessano: la famosa Casa Azul, oggi Museo Frida Khalo, e la casa dove visse Trotsky in esilio, prima di essere ammazzato con una picconata in testa da un uomo di Stalin.</div><div><br /></div><div>Salutiamo il Regina, dove lasciamo, ancora per qualche ora, bici e bagagli. E' proprio un bel posto, non c'è che dire!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQL0txpChA2wcZz4rBPhF8a14Sd2ZeT_ye-fFVxmJ3f7eTjGW_zOKn_xQc8O1xxsF6SXfJuzXovV0Z_2FPR8LJKLNUPrMI_GS6p4Aar6vMQoTIFdTlYOQBP9GZyGO0b5UvoqO5LBXEi1rEeNN_KsBHqhCnBOoR1OMZPHurcaGIwOl3J0xltvN6rfWWfs/s1209/20230808_092812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQL0txpChA2wcZz4rBPhF8a14Sd2ZeT_ye-fFVxmJ3f7eTjGW_zOKn_xQc8O1xxsF6SXfJuzXovV0Z_2FPR8LJKLNUPrMI_GS6p4Aar6vMQoTIFdTlYOQBP9GZyGO0b5UvoqO5LBXEi1rEeNN_KsBHqhCnBOoR1OMZPHurcaGIwOl3J0xltvN6rfWWfs/s320/20230808_092812.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MKi7NxjZutBWNcdKX7Qj6AflzWebrG7b07eNRus0xp8oU166gid0uC6Wgk-_6jhqUbNCuXV8FsB3QSVgLSb8BokzZGNMU1Smp1wHCMWGFmLZL5oyTzKMVQcoJvUBe6jHdXf9Vyvm1FZAAWJ-SRfXhlBcaJ80Gi1GpWm8xQTV9ydYl4-0Uk0xovSLSsc/s1209/20230808_092839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MKi7NxjZutBWNcdKX7Qj6AflzWebrG7b07eNRus0xp8oU166gid0uC6Wgk-_6jhqUbNCuXV8FsB3QSVgLSb8BokzZGNMU1Smp1wHCMWGFmLZL5oyTzKMVQcoJvUBe6jHdXf9Vyvm1FZAAWJ-SRfXhlBcaJ80Gi1GpWm8xQTV9ydYl4-0Uk0xovSLSsc/s320/20230808_092839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqjNeOeUBUzGW6Z-HAJZog4bgYAxCc0nn5qTG2qN43Onx_aOkaO1hVx0zvdQ8QRdb-sQwHMNW65ezidjvszcmfAfIjhdsnwBIjzT-6TawOB419dGiFlIiVnuGusTgqbUvLr-4ZaMRE_eO--S12pL5A6g_dLeM0SS-kon_HYIxT0C9qXQi18KYL1MtqHM/s1209/20230808_092920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqjNeOeUBUzGW6Z-HAJZog4bgYAxCc0nn5qTG2qN43Onx_aOkaO1hVx0zvdQ8QRdb-sQwHMNW65ezidjvszcmfAfIjhdsnwBIjzT-6TawOB419dGiFlIiVnuGusTgqbUvLr-4ZaMRE_eO--S12pL5A6g_dLeM0SS-kon_HYIxT0C9qXQi18KYL1MtqHM/s320/20230808_092920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFi2DLsviQQpVPYsA6FdazInu1bsU_wOvgc26bURd1QufQ7uPwCwzCNPiQ0suwAdaFXBiNMsJLt93FTUCWUNxXAQqhSn0csZI9fdPsLljpkty6lcMoJbn52G3Zp87BH8HEgAu2F8Sctg_gDE2bUj55CaEHeFh38Hj4SZFUv8-5FNUZKpHJhcVWvnJc9Gc/s1209/20230808_092952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFi2DLsviQQpVPYsA6FdazInu1bsU_wOvgc26bURd1QufQ7uPwCwzCNPiQ0suwAdaFXBiNMsJLt93FTUCWUNxXAQqhSn0csZI9fdPsLljpkty6lcMoJbn52G3Zp87BH8HEgAu2F8Sctg_gDE2bUj55CaEHeFh38Hj4SZFUv8-5FNUZKpHJhcVWvnJc9Gc/s320/20230808_092952.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Saliamo sulla metro, oggi piena di lavoratori in camicia e signore eleganti. Ormai siamo dei professionisti di questo spettacolare mezzo che, con 5 pesitos di biglietto, ti porta ovunque e in modo facilissimo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijkbrp7eFiF1f2WyIY6Y-MHs5HdMQ5sE3wfq1DRic09027npfN0rY5egtkPII-RGozExJQUwPffHJDQYNJN-QxJFMBnsXbZlLa1TGTqp-P4e99Hkzt2NyLAah-ZmuQ9vmpj5VT31wb11MkuFcNAfO7u63AzuTYJVCp2laWte7-5Aly8aDs1sOYaIiE5jU/s1209/20230808_095342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijkbrp7eFiF1f2WyIY6Y-MHs5HdMQ5sE3wfq1DRic09027npfN0rY5egtkPII-RGozExJQUwPffHJDQYNJN-QxJFMBnsXbZlLa1TGTqp-P4e99Hkzt2NyLAah-ZmuQ9vmpj5VT31wb11MkuFcNAfO7u63AzuTYJVCp2laWte7-5Aly8aDs1sOYaIiE5jU/s320/20230808_095342.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una volta a destinazione passeggiamo nelle tranquille vie del quartiere del coyote, tra palazzoni, sempre più rari, e case dai colori vivaci. La prima destinazione è la casa museo di Trotsky, ora Istituto del diritto d'asilo, che è stata lasciata nelle stesse condizioni in cui si trovava quando Mercader, l'agente di Stalin, lo colpì a morte con una piccozza. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY1dE6KAptPTCGe1mb9fcmnvDw-fX65MZy_gb1RwEbQUdOnO1K07HEn1ZlTX38BE8FRTrbumBFy-a1GsU33knI4awg3FLt6CWtDxSXf3TJIqfDUhiNGBoIsUiV9pGOvJA_nfUcoKUwiu-aW3SzL2dBgNFXsYoIMA-JuenPaV4mWpKSmhN95c5L11CKg8/s1209/20230808_102537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY1dE6KAptPTCGe1mb9fcmnvDw-fX65MZy_gb1RwEbQUdOnO1K07HEn1ZlTX38BE8FRTrbumBFy-a1GsU33knI4awg3FLt6CWtDxSXf3TJIqfDUhiNGBoIsUiV9pGOvJA_nfUcoKUwiu-aW3SzL2dBgNFXsYoIMA-JuenPaV4mWpKSmhN95c5L11CKg8/s320/20230808_102537.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuI_f_DE550Mio6_gj-iwTVORuD-4TA_JDVUAW9XXP3383lojd-kvJFSPp12wuMi8_D3E-Q9fU-4S2r298wNnuCHOjGOmNhZKjDd27QQs8LN1imkI1MhZ5ErwgQFzwmvDAIMlsNWtnFBiHgrfI7OrmL8qxI474uC5wg3s3YcmQU4gzBTsF2YXu74HZG9g/s1209/20230808_104134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuI_f_DE550Mio6_gj-iwTVORuD-4TA_JDVUAW9XXP3383lojd-kvJFSPp12wuMi8_D3E-Q9fU-4S2r298wNnuCHOjGOmNhZKjDd27QQs8LN1imkI1MhZ5ErwgQFzwmvDAIMlsNWtnFBiHgrfI7OrmL8qxI474uC5wg3s3YcmQU4gzBTsF2YXu74HZG9g/s320/20230808_104134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Qui si trovano tantissimi documenti fotografici di grande interesse, manoscritti, lettere, filmati e tutti gli oggetti e gli ambienti che, dal 1937, costituivano il nuovo mondo del leader rivoluzionario. Inizialmente visse con Khalo e Rivera, ma, dopo alcuni dissapori (diciamo così), si trasferì con la moglie qui. Nella camera da letto ci sono i segni dei proiettili di un attentato. Nel cortile la tomba che ospita le ceneri di Trotsky, con bandiera rossa e falce e martello incisi sulla lapide. Al di là della propria ideologia politica e delle proprie convinzioni e letture, è innegabile che queste persone abbiano scritto la storia del Novecento. Vengono i brividi a pensare quanto peso abbiano avuto le idee, le parole, le fedi. Hanno mosso popoli, dato vita a rivoluzioni, cambiato il corso degli eventi umani.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwbbfrXkG1WwrJt7Xth46jj49PbWB4x6bzdxFW0cfrGJLsZbg0aahGxL5uGRnTEFvJzmGglKfxV7-uDHqkSD_KwwGbAuMf5DdtpTnX-08UVXlo--7IH19CTqdqmxSYwm6wDQHvYMexhbSARl2s4LAoR47H-ONHbuv7jzQVJ0rJNbT6QNy6Td6dAPnBpg/s1209/20230808_105712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwbbfrXkG1WwrJt7Xth46jj49PbWB4x6bzdxFW0cfrGJLsZbg0aahGxL5uGRnTEFvJzmGglKfxV7-uDHqkSD_KwwGbAuMf5DdtpTnX-08UVXlo--7IH19CTqdqmxSYwm6wDQHvYMexhbSARl2s4LAoR47H-ONHbuv7jzQVJ0rJNbT6QNy6Td6dAPnBpg/s320/20230808_105712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QjeRefv-I6zmgp2abPzgiXukhYVeMdi9kQUGdfhRM4dzfR8J4dwGSoPEausPZsPTmW1AkPbgilSPZxA3nyTupQiGrDzMCyVYv43RXdeMkCA215ljtWW8E40RyLku9j3A_LCQZPVPjo4TF8igaOfuwKnuSdyAcPSAtAPBUb9CjnK3W0EA5h4-xPEhZVY/s1209/20230808_105755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QjeRefv-I6zmgp2abPzgiXukhYVeMdi9kQUGdfhRM4dzfR8J4dwGSoPEausPZsPTmW1AkPbgilSPZxA3nyTupQiGrDzMCyVYv43RXdeMkCA215ljtWW8E40RyLku9j3A_LCQZPVPjo4TF8igaOfuwKnuSdyAcPSAtAPBUb9CjnK3W0EA5h4-xPEhZVY/s320/20230808_105755.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCBjKKPSVf4akuesH1icSZOw79S7WWLEkNXbpK8gjcgxtab2rSerPIFfVPbK9Kcz8iqngG5MT0Gut7p21SgZDMgbH5LM5b44ChJx8hngUWGlYyrkOz0YCjitzKrWaT5PiUyXiiEgauUZmOK44RM0Oo1kGMtIUySwhkDyZdJ3wblgPT2vbcCcw3rjDbJpk/s1209/20230808_105929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCBjKKPSVf4akuesH1icSZOw79S7WWLEkNXbpK8gjcgxtab2rSerPIFfVPbK9Kcz8iqngG5MT0Gut7p21SgZDMgbH5LM5b44ChJx8hngUWGlYyrkOz0YCjitzKrWaT5PiUyXiiEgauUZmOK44RM0Oo1kGMtIUySwhkDyZdJ3wblgPT2vbcCcw3rjDbJpk/s320/20230808_105929.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftdUSDe6E1nIWWJVHSLDLYYX124uEdcus1cEvy9qUXhfPrPdjU0jMvemQe-_4BhWT9yHysHQU8yIMdNxVqHoaQfwTbGSJt0p8OpAMxsZpAQWGOKrKg4lhBVbNp1gQEW9nlv0Exfvml1y2QNBAdIUhgSbd-8gDpmFsU7RWyDVAjaBG2GIdBuw8bcYHNuA/s1209/20230808_105932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftdUSDe6E1nIWWJVHSLDLYYX124uEdcus1cEvy9qUXhfPrPdjU0jMvemQe-_4BhWT9yHysHQU8yIMdNxVqHoaQfwTbGSJt0p8OpAMxsZpAQWGOKrKg4lhBVbNp1gQEW9nlv0Exfvml1y2QNBAdIUhgSbd-8gDpmFsU7RWyDVAjaBG2GIdBuw8bcYHNuA/s320/20230808_105932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcBThyhL99hwmfvmKKo604PKIF1hRuSV2PQl3dP2PJORejLTvTES5-JoDO0Ndy7heL9XQnjZIJD4gSK3FS-KUWma2DF4koQjCsCa-5vh-RJOywDacN7HzML5k4NDmJUlxuL8uRvkjuehC9jcoOB-x1PhbAW28xhFOql0y8P7Vc2YzQgH7lYlMdg8wWwAQ/s1209/20230808_110029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcBThyhL99hwmfvmKKo604PKIF1hRuSV2PQl3dP2PJORejLTvTES5-JoDO0Ndy7heL9XQnjZIJD4gSK3FS-KUWma2DF4koQjCsCa-5vh-RJOywDacN7HzML5k4NDmJUlxuL8uRvkjuehC9jcoOB-x1PhbAW28xhFOql0y8P7Vc2YzQgH7lYlMdg8wWwAQ/s320/20230808_110029.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8H6akkPBXoFvYgbvU21sUNKPB50RKwq0eU4OrmxiUdugQCa58yT84Hg6GILdkSdi2t_9-KQ-YYACSLTgk2AnB3EBA40-qDSvWJWMQK1PFR-7zNprLhZXrKLsBIep63yaN-g8vvsHRlquEMU7rpMOVnrow5d5dRIsyi4TYmuQRxqKdgLmI-fvCwZXfe4Y/s1209/20230808_110036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8H6akkPBXoFvYgbvU21sUNKPB50RKwq0eU4OrmxiUdugQCa58yT84Hg6GILdkSdi2t_9-KQ-YYACSLTgk2AnB3EBA40-qDSvWJWMQK1PFR-7zNprLhZXrKLsBIep63yaN-g8vvsHRlquEMU7rpMOVnrow5d5dRIsyi4TYmuQRxqKdgLmI-fvCwZXfe4Y/s320/20230808_110036.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdc5esHQaoV73wQKjvVA8s7ITCDkG9lsxn6XzBdxxvp5JctCDmfO9XVql_zIi8BVHjfrdX5yrmPpc1RWMLzkqig3hZWHjT7XkxI7OM8Nwo2A6fV9gGZDcTrPd0IcFnjDCtVtrelTRIJFmrMnH6m7IrrUNMKdz5O90TlJlSC29I2ioH9NmAfPachEkbXU/s1209/20230808_110436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqdc5esHQaoV73wQKjvVA8s7ITCDkG9lsxn6XzBdxxvp5JctCDmfO9XVql_zIi8BVHjfrdX5yrmPpc1RWMLzkqig3hZWHjT7XkxI7OM8Nwo2A6fV9gGZDcTrPd0IcFnjDCtVtrelTRIJFmrMnH6m7IrrUNMKdz5O90TlJlSC29I2ioH9NmAfPachEkbXU/s320/20230808_110436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La seconda tappa è, come dicevo, la Casa Azul. Sono emozionata all'idea di metter piede in questo luogo che vive nel mio immaginario da quando ho visitato una bellissima mostra sulla Khalo a Milano, qualche anno fa. Ricordo che alla fine, dopo aver ripercorso tutta la vita dell'artista, tra famiglia, sofferenze fisiche e psicologiche, travagliate vicende artistiche e amorose, arte e colori, era proiettato un filmat originale, a colori, che immortalava momenti di tenerezza tra Frida e Diego. Lui sempre grosso e goffo, lei fiera, grandiosa, con fiori rossi tra i capelli e uno sguardo affilato. L'elefante e la colomba, come disse la madre di lei al matrimonio, perchè considerava Rivera troppo vecchio (aveva 21 anni in più), grasso, ateo e comunista per la giovane figlia di un ebreo ungherese e di una donna dell'Oaxaca.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8oGwvW3OkjeFUgZCa4RCu-s67XrxgeN3p46WtO0uXpsZqDHfnK7uYk78zgmOSHimnYQP8avFmMsLIndlu9ROjquo1yNhBnoy1-Q_0iB6G23T89GIn960FfA7otv6rHB7W-dxkNvgsonzmW5M_soygt7rn3DUlTbLBghn-SS6vVVTYpS9i0ySl-Z9QIT4/s1209/20230808_111654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8oGwvW3OkjeFUgZCa4RCu-s67XrxgeN3p46WtO0uXpsZqDHfnK7uYk78zgmOSHimnYQP8avFmMsLIndlu9ROjquo1yNhBnoy1-Q_0iB6G23T89GIn960FfA7otv6rHB7W-dxkNvgsonzmW5M_soygt7rn3DUlTbLBghn-SS6vVVTYpS9i0ySl-Z9QIT4/s320/20230808_111654.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Quando arriviamo al museo scopro con ORRORE che è diventato obbligatorio acquistare i biglietti online, cosa che non è scritta nè nella guida nè chiaramente sul sito del museo. Provo a comprare un biglietto al volo ma tutti gli ingressi sono prenotati per giorni e giorni. Mi prende lo sconforto. E ora? Mentre valuto con Gigi il da farsi, sento che una signora approccia i passanti provando a vendere dei biglietti. Sulle prime penso si tratti di qualche truffa, ma poi decido di avvicinarla e chiedere. La signora parla uno spagnolo stentato, quindi le chiedo "Do you speak english?" - "Oh God yes, thank you!". E' americana, di Los Angeles, e ora sta visitando Città del Messico facendo base a casa di una amica che vive qui. Dovevano raggiungerla da Londra altre comari, ma hanno perso il volo, quindi anche il biglietto risulta inutile. Uno lo ha già venduto, uno le resta... Non è che lo voglio io? E' per un accesso alle 11.30. Guardo l'ora, sono le 11.25. Andata! Se non è una botta di culo questa... Gigi mi lascia l'onore di accedere alla Casa Azul. Lui farà un giro nella piazza centrale del quartiere. Pago in contanti la sciura, che si chiama Joe, ed insieme entriamo, come se nulla fosse. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkW5ssrU2crKxnp6IBXWCqiAlMIdr-kB7MofHd0ltpUqqGszFSRMbvNDPpebAxYAmkdP-YiQD4jebE52ltooHG6REH18FndKq0aP_rc-CWp9PDOG613iX3TZYPPYK_HDm-7m-A3vfwLr4ms_Z8RnJyOEwZlJK-oSLO9ch6m1LDgpxFjt_re_9RNg20f5g/s1209/20230808_112142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkW5ssrU2crKxnp6IBXWCqiAlMIdr-kB7MofHd0ltpUqqGszFSRMbvNDPpebAxYAmkdP-YiQD4jebE52ltooHG6REH18FndKq0aP_rc-CWp9PDOG613iX3TZYPPYK_HDm-7m-A3vfwLr4ms_Z8RnJyOEwZlJK-oSLO9ch6m1LDgpxFjt_re_9RNg20f5g/s320/20230808_112142.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYN4Z3IZ1UqHkinr6DzM_mHG3YQkqIhKpNM2_l0m4mZVuznpYafjHH3ESxrKVIjPeGbpF6gSrirH0qgSnJSh9L-JyB2qRh1xtslXCce275LPEvpQAlPPBAh9KmqHqGaE-CikJIV7NDIbjfCgywluIbQTj6C6HH4kZeSBI7yljhSn-bREsM1CQEB7zV3Q/s1209/20230808_112201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYN4Z3IZ1UqHkinr6DzM_mHG3YQkqIhKpNM2_l0m4mZVuznpYafjHH3ESxrKVIjPeGbpF6gSrirH0qgSnJSh9L-JyB2qRh1xtslXCce275LPEvpQAlPPBAh9KmqHqGaE-CikJIV7NDIbjfCgywluIbQTj6C6HH4kZeSBI7yljhSn-bREsM1CQEB7zV3Q/s320/20230808_112201.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Non sto ora a dilungarmi sulla figura di Frida Khalo, sulla sua vita complessa e spesso tragica, sulla sua arte. Tanto si è detto e tanto si dirà. Qui nella Casa Azul non ci sono molte opere dell'artista. C'è però la sua esistenza materiale, fatta di dolore, di colore, di parole, dipinti, farmaci, corsetti, vestiti colmi di simboli, oggetti che lei vedeva tutti i giorni, che le piaceva avere intorno, che ispiravano i suoi quadri. Visitare la Casa Azul, se si conosce già qualcosa della Khalo, è da pelle d'oca ad ogni stanza.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynruXrnU2r9voAxeTVHhdMEkd8uLPM7oZ3rFCJJNwSi-3gNk0TenN8vizHO2bPVl-cssxhatdpKyIjC9rX3LV22ZHhnoSZMcOm_jpWqdJWuu1Lo8WMBPjzwVD2UUcSYMVCSAhsTuQtezALQffkFP5XiU0wNIow8R25Jop2c_L-mYyGfJJOszG3sKqMug/s1209/20230808_114446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiynruXrnU2r9voAxeTVHhdMEkd8uLPM7oZ3rFCJJNwSi-3gNk0TenN8vizHO2bPVl-cssxhatdpKyIjC9rX3LV22ZHhnoSZMcOm_jpWqdJWuu1Lo8WMBPjzwVD2UUcSYMVCSAhsTuQtezALQffkFP5XiU0wNIow8R25Jop2c_L-mYyGfJJOszG3sKqMug/s320/20230808_114446.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUCthzcl0QlEHr2owLeWYc7J7KaNMWTnjf91JTkq3esGhdZwBCSuPonSCQfpIZYqp_ukk4GdmM5_lPyrHWVV5tTKMYkudY-rJxF9hGVW31SML5A6xaXhil6kqaRtobFQX7Ol36I5vohTaec7f_P1FUgEnx71aennD_7n_aM5pevlt1-3gnaCj15ZhXngY/s1209/20230808_115035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUCthzcl0QlEHr2owLeWYc7J7KaNMWTnjf91JTkq3esGhdZwBCSuPonSCQfpIZYqp_ukk4GdmM5_lPyrHWVV5tTKMYkudY-rJxF9hGVW31SML5A6xaXhil6kqaRtobFQX7Ol36I5vohTaec7f_P1FUgEnx71aennD_7n_aM5pevlt1-3gnaCj15ZhXngY/s320/20230808_115035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhheO2BWFykra1l17cuNch-znk88sRwAsyRZtXD6q0r1xpuDsxqPiCNnWNvmqiMHGa04eOhgbtVHuIBmNtGhUArpiz6snJdEEqlu6dVClJzxtdIVyLWEyRbJ9xN2PeUDq4WiBHmB4ke9d7AQ6sPnPCvtfgV5x7c_iIt9O1oLRBkN5EV0ZRAFbrZ5wVIA0/s1209/20230808_115325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhheO2BWFykra1l17cuNch-znk88sRwAsyRZtXD6q0r1xpuDsxqPiCNnWNvmqiMHGa04eOhgbtVHuIBmNtGhUArpiz6snJdEEqlu6dVClJzxtdIVyLWEyRbJ9xN2PeUDq4WiBHmB4ke9d7AQ6sPnPCvtfgV5x7c_iIt9O1oLRBkN5EV0ZRAFbrZ5wVIA0/s320/20230808_115325.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgbFcXCDBairWLSbo_ufnEjvuNIHAea54f4D0AQy6eJHkkHZ9NQnaioZheBu7fbGRy0593wSx885HmYChfpeW_iSx41nuUZv4Qj2rhdqfiHwYwAs6mTDEOM8fBRan861UGu6sq5xaUCkYwQHGtcDAy7HtEiGAkJw49Arfj6N3MPEuciSpjT5I4Mj8Mpfo/s1209/20230808_115328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgbFcXCDBairWLSbo_ufnEjvuNIHAea54f4D0AQy6eJHkkHZ9NQnaioZheBu7fbGRy0593wSx885HmYChfpeW_iSx41nuUZv4Qj2rhdqfiHwYwAs6mTDEOM8fBRan861UGu6sq5xaUCkYwQHGtcDAy7HtEiGAkJw49Arfj6N3MPEuciSpjT5I4Mj8Mpfo/s320/20230808_115328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6AHa4F3MJk1BSnV5nK3sNJJrOKFTuNF22yl6I7RcaHcHrkhTuQKtWABR9qGUiczXknjrXAavy9W_0Zs0naeGGHO5ZZ2vEV2u1zOK5k7hXwUHUvtkRWwz1nhgQRDPDztlUIvs88nyXtruJeZHczRwhNbeTNVTjpLJGsk28WXH4WhMJE9FN_dJK4x3zBDQ/s1209/20230808_115544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6AHa4F3MJk1BSnV5nK3sNJJrOKFTuNF22yl6I7RcaHcHrkhTuQKtWABR9qGUiczXknjrXAavy9W_0Zs0naeGGHO5ZZ2vEV2u1zOK5k7hXwUHUvtkRWwz1nhgQRDPDztlUIvs88nyXtruJeZHczRwhNbeTNVTjpLJGsk28WXH4WhMJE9FN_dJK4x3zBDQ/s320/20230808_115544.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqzfoulQ7FdrJ47-U4sFEJ6jeNYVcSXmWw0bWLBBuu66ICen_YYzaMnibOMQRGlsyiVPoyZXYxWPwUbbg2NYv7Se1PZF0-YlvA7uovvSAtjeXdYoK7EPaHov5seW8TMnQV108TbaJNjpzarFZJdsgh9ubBoO_HAfDi5GkbqFn-2LBZEGumqS9BdPCQTU/s1209/20230808_115618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqzfoulQ7FdrJ47-U4sFEJ6jeNYVcSXmWw0bWLBBuu66ICen_YYzaMnibOMQRGlsyiVPoyZXYxWPwUbbg2NYv7Se1PZF0-YlvA7uovvSAtjeXdYoK7EPaHov5seW8TMnQV108TbaJNjpzarFZJdsgh9ubBoO_HAfDi5GkbqFn-2LBZEGumqS9BdPCQTU/s320/20230808_115618.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il famoso letto con lo specchio</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA7ePI-poKAcAgvZWHbGUfn-zB4wA_OPd_Gk3LC7GfKs8w-EsAV6yk02AgCHoz4SckBq71ofIzgWvaZyX3uspLnPJawVd-3sxr0z3zUf7ySKjrJ7dHsCwpg6S27jopznCZuvSAixYbykjXBU_96Prf302w5OjaZuoMYGD8G8JTgpaWG2DzwCvBsTsBkUc/s1209/20230808_115636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA7ePI-poKAcAgvZWHbGUfn-zB4wA_OPd_Gk3LC7GfKs8w-EsAV6yk02AgCHoz4SckBq71ofIzgWvaZyX3uspLnPJawVd-3sxr0z3zUf7ySKjrJ7dHsCwpg6S27jopznCZuvSAixYbykjXBU_96Prf302w5OjaZuoMYGD8G8JTgpaWG2DzwCvBsTsBkUc/s320/20230808_115636.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAMShpdWwyXN1F9CYDx3xgArdGEPxyz1qEGqd3W-ZZDs294rH-eKxjbITB16ulokNP1JrmOCWYaxiVU3MjHBzCOGN-AxXpjlVGMepgVKd2_W-ARnrwJmK5op7EmV7FPAOywLHBT0b4YXlp0IRe88jReiLBhKoDppDDGdyxjzhmsjB9YOuew8gdo-87JE4/s1209/20230808_115705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAMShpdWwyXN1F9CYDx3xgArdGEPxyz1qEGqd3W-ZZDs294rH-eKxjbITB16ulokNP1JrmOCWYaxiVU3MjHBzCOGN-AxXpjlVGMepgVKd2_W-ARnrwJmK5op7EmV7FPAOywLHBT0b4YXlp0IRe88jReiLBhKoDppDDGdyxjzhmsjB9YOuew8gdo-87JE4/s320/20230808_115705.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoozMFjcms94QfK9xh52wCdKLBlqhx0POoryqqaONPx8FVmJzDqGrOm-a0FR2h2YVHEAWcQ0TqtKBz0Wf8ojBGM21YrjlU4Yy3MU6QN9Yr5-EN7DMQMl7vAsBk_rN_HGilic_yzj__YINrwLcOCYLJkm9BWRTea3oO4QsUq1KS9aWSb7IdkQ4Xb6ZQc_I/s1209/20230808_115714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoozMFjcms94QfK9xh52wCdKLBlqhx0POoryqqaONPx8FVmJzDqGrOm-a0FR2h2YVHEAWcQ0TqtKBz0Wf8ojBGM21YrjlU4Yy3MU6QN9Yr5-EN7DMQMl7vAsBk_rN_HGilic_yzj__YINrwLcOCYLJkm9BWRTea3oO4QsUq1KS9aWSb7IdkQ4Xb6ZQc_I/s320/20230808_115714.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GmPyCmjp5BCTgMctFLLIMgfBStGkgDB54joDZ3b7Zo9Uix9s2k5DkSEbMTqkMoBm5acrajYQQ8qt8TfAhv8w8FAMzKj_VltPg5sefQ10zxaFv4FyRYZ8JMUVZa5ySwwF_8VuJvQALpT6wRRuHMTbyPRmordoT70YqK-feA9Lqkpal7kHOyCL9KONtFU/s1209/20230808_115750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0GmPyCmjp5BCTgMctFLLIMgfBStGkgDB54joDZ3b7Zo9Uix9s2k5DkSEbMTqkMoBm5acrajYQQ8qt8TfAhv8w8FAMzKj_VltPg5sefQ10zxaFv4FyRYZ8JMUVZa5ySwwF_8VuJvQALpT6wRRuHMTbyPRmordoT70YqK-feA9Lqkpal7kHOyCL9KONtFU/s320/20230808_115750.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnfoWBotXSSi2Y8oLT0sWKuh_QXPsjjO06VjhcMROY4ChG8J7i31QH55dRvavM8u-JAkjCXCc9Nn1l_UT-nkYcpj3LxStaLlbj5ROpPZLTrpOKRp43aIGTCSaGjnbgGEXbzOolF6fbSsBVikcZvdbj_wraRhq8cCgEoLmV44O7wGW-dPZuDlBZpHjH9Vk/s1209/20230808_115858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnfoWBotXSSi2Y8oLT0sWKuh_QXPsjjO06VjhcMROY4ChG8J7i31QH55dRvavM8u-JAkjCXCc9Nn1l_UT-nkYcpj3LxStaLlbj5ROpPZLTrpOKRp43aIGTCSaGjnbgGEXbzOolF6fbSsBVikcZvdbj_wraRhq8cCgEoLmV44O7wGW-dPZuDlBZpHjH9Vk/s320/20230808_115858.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>C'è un fenomeno tremendo cui ho assistito, che probabilmente si ascrive alla "fridolatria": il museo pullula di ragazze e donne TRAVESTITE da Frida Khalo, che si fanno ritrarre in pose che non commento in tutti gli angoli della Casa Azul. C'è bisogno di proferir verbo a riguardo? Immagino di no. Non vorrei mi si accusasse di essere giudicante. Ebbene sì, lo sono.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOgr999Zx96XhWR2w0QaAsO1MPQ_6euEyU5eO638Hs-kefSpyBSqJ99LVvFbxBQ0iYfvp14JiBIBYxtwr7MyBA2tUnmUw6_pIxcpkd7ROrcgJhdlj6Oe1Q7oZgeoFOdsbyGHdidIXP0V6MQSSn6mp-1TX9xhTmry8IL74HTldtbmB-laILbjhp1-bU0WQ/s1209/20230808_115903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOgr999Zx96XhWR2w0QaAsO1MPQ_6euEyU5eO638Hs-kefSpyBSqJ99LVvFbxBQ0iYfvp14JiBIBYxtwr7MyBA2tUnmUw6_pIxcpkd7ROrcgJhdlj6Oe1Q7oZgeoFOdsbyGHdidIXP0V6MQSSn6mp-1TX9xhTmry8IL74HTldtbmB-laILbjhp1-bU0WQ/s320/20230808_115903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0qmZeOTl9d93ePss3gzhZ84ze_oSCbEZAOsxxbs9ZrqGG8PA_UPtxb7TetBuzRvnj34LdA5NMPiTF5iIBLFTXRck1eRGlMtB5E0YEAYZlHdxYYTH95TBaqAbyJJ8v32o-3WiUc0WdYSq-k8AwqVyIIyEl5l-dctpk6ecuAM5E3DyLEUKKeDc2T4pP7o/s1209/20230808_120130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0qmZeOTl9d93ePss3gzhZ84ze_oSCbEZAOsxxbs9ZrqGG8PA_UPtxb7TetBuzRvnj34LdA5NMPiTF5iIBLFTXRck1eRGlMtB5E0YEAYZlHdxYYTH95TBaqAbyJJ8v32o-3WiUc0WdYSq-k8AwqVyIIyEl5l-dctpk6ecuAM5E3DyLEUKKeDc2T4pP7o/s320/20230808_120130.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5386o0r2HXCGBmx0ujhYjdUOkOGV2hBe34kD6bihbgHUj9fIrO_Z2JymbK3zDvlboX30Ks7U34Ve_Yq06zE7ypfDbp-DooHHsL226G617-RSDwqKGRheOUzehNGiUL5Qphun9C0Qrg-Std6q2IFex8tCka-uFYia2zdp_eyn5b1RS3o3hk62bMt2bRE/s1209/20230808_120157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5386o0r2HXCGBmx0ujhYjdUOkOGV2hBe34kD6bihbgHUj9fIrO_Z2JymbK3zDvlboX30Ks7U34Ve_Yq06zE7ypfDbp-DooHHsL226G617-RSDwqKGRheOUzehNGiUL5Qphun9C0Qrg-Std6q2IFex8tCka-uFYia2zdp_eyn5b1RS3o3hk62bMt2bRE/s320/20230808_120157.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm7b7duOYRZyAjMr9beRcpzG6FKf0sXoWBlzfZkSVEqYJyQ7CzfF-1tS-wuUPvZE5nyTs3JRx9tEHUgpI0zZKmhkgAdwrjX4L2ft14eDs8KNlxQfbX6SSKWkxehPtB6HSpDvMGYLH7oFoXul3gHwIAglqqJDYtIceCBLI3sEuDAbgIdl44zTe4s_HkYUE/s1209/20230808_121242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm7b7duOYRZyAjMr9beRcpzG6FKf0sXoWBlzfZkSVEqYJyQ7CzfF-1tS-wuUPvZE5nyTs3JRx9tEHUgpI0zZKmhkgAdwrjX4L2ft14eDs8KNlxQfbX6SSKWkxehPtB6HSpDvMGYLH7oFoXul3gHwIAglqqJDYtIceCBLI3sEuDAbgIdl44zTe4s_HkYUE/s320/20230808_121242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoqlm1p7Pd2vdttnTNNl2vb5klDEQtEIjnoHysuIgbUkRS_FPfcE4HjwfyJrzD0lU4NRGv19EBGNGF__LmG7rjLpD202GSRLtGZz-qj-x1LLT8dwYkdN6mFfzjXmV1gBDtHVWdC3vMelrQxg9iIUx5fu0whgjY9JqEBwVQB8pH45kwlhKjsGLxx6OU8I/s1209/20230808_121420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoqlm1p7Pd2vdttnTNNl2vb5klDEQtEIjnoHysuIgbUkRS_FPfcE4HjwfyJrzD0lU4NRGv19EBGNGF__LmG7rjLpD202GSRLtGZz-qj-x1LLT8dwYkdN6mFfzjXmV1gBDtHVWdC3vMelrQxg9iIUx5fu0whgjY9JqEBwVQB8pH45kwlhKjsGLxx6OU8I/s320/20230808_121420.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>L'altro aspetto che mi colpisce ancora una volta della vita della Khalo è il suo rapporto con Rivera. In sintesi, mi piace pensare che persone così complesse, grandiose, problematiche e creative, per forza di cose non possano rientrare nello schema della coppia monogamica chiusa. Eppure, nonostante le mille altre storie, i tradimenti, le ferite inferte reciprocamente, qualcosa di fortissimo resta, e sopravvive, e tiene nonostante tutto. Perchè, forse, se è amore, r-esiste di per sè, qualsiasi cosa accada.</div><div><br /></div><div>Quando esco dal museo è tardissimo. Qui comincia una corsa febbrile per tornare in ostello, prima a piedi, verso la metro, poi giù nei tunnel sotterranei, dove i treni sono in ritardo, sulle banchine c'è una bolgia infernale e tutto va a rilento. Poi in ostello, per portare le bici giù lungo tre piani scale strette, e montare le borse. Ancora, pedalare i 7km che ci separano dalla stazione dei bus in un traffico indescrivibile, bloccato, caotico quando si muove, dove precedenze, semafori, attraversamenti e indicazioni dei vigili non sono mai rispettati, mai, e vige solo la regola del cercare di non lasciare troppi cadaveri a terra.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP7WHCe5ws2EXc2f1rq4w9k-llo0GjffI5DTIBxw1DS5bO6m6kVcpLVJl8DC4CV9Pfp8vRFDzUvf2p9VRPfkm2huJT_kAyvZ5CtxBsSgwwQ1jvxhzrNm7OEvXM1lyqd3vS9mc3hIA9JrybEVl5z6tooq69ax88VxnLrXQMDrdWjHja9z4eGnqPybBM5yo/s1209/20230808_122456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP7WHCe5ws2EXc2f1rq4w9k-llo0GjffI5DTIBxw1DS5bO6m6kVcpLVJl8DC4CV9Pfp8vRFDzUvf2p9VRPfkm2huJT_kAyvZ5CtxBsSgwwQ1jvxhzrNm7OEvXM1lyqd3vS9mc3hIA9JrybEVl5z6tooq69ax88VxnLrXQMDrdWjHja9z4eGnqPybBM5yo/s320/20230808_122456.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mariachi!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />In qualche modo, evitando miracolosamente incidenti, arriviamo in stazione per tempo e, ancora una volta, nel caos più totale di banchine, partenze, annunci e controlli, riusciamo a salire sul bus e a caricare le bici senza nè smontarle nè pagare un extra. Faccio notare anche che nella borsa portata come bagaglio a mano ho un coltellaccio e lo spray al peperoncino, entrambe le cose viste sicuramente ai controlli, entrambe le cose lasciate passare senza problemi.<div><br /></div><div>Il viaggio dura tre ore, che sfruttiamo per riposare e affinare le tappe dei prossimi giorni. Entriamo nello stato di Queretaro che il sole è ancora alto. Nel frattempo prenoto un ostello in centro, in modo da non tentare ulteriormente la sorte, che oggi è stata più che propizia.</div><div><br /></div><div>Di Queretaro, che ci si presenta con il suo skyline baciato dal sole del tardo pomeriggio, diremo qualcosa di più domani.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSU2YNeNETstzn0ho6SBXoOtV0QQ8_XJ6uIWtDgTQOYhOc9rrDzw0J9KB7zkWenwoYtraiDYP-iHZ-JagSULQclfdUNNiRfVoqVo5wyeh-wVuCA2yBNWM5FkrdSm7kmMcf8f6AMBM23x8bkFfeiGs9i61XBugX_5kiFb87UCsMJP6bpAiPm657BdElSU/s1209/20230808_175933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQSU2YNeNETstzn0ho6SBXoOtV0QQ8_XJ6uIWtDgTQOYhOc9rrDzw0J9KB7zkWenwoYtraiDYP-iHZ-JagSULQclfdUNNiRfVoqVo5wyeh-wVuCA2yBNWM5FkrdSm7kmMcf8f6AMBM23x8bkFfeiGs9i61XBugX_5kiFb87UCsMJP6bpAiPm657BdElSU/s320/20230808_175933.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtskz3rZgWs8FAW14mTWXfTgH3pbSjvfVN5QCoiQCJv4SUkMXtHCalz0B8bBF57ch6y726mJ5vgdGNhkgwWiWMQ72mUzBYo3jUInoN9tyHKzYjL25pfdsVnDgWccq18RO8JDsw-cqenrASwaFn9SE5t96yozlautqRlc9HQhtFn378qSE3b1JhfrgEVc/s1209/20230808_180202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtskz3rZgWs8FAW14mTWXfTgH3pbSjvfVN5QCoiQCJv4SUkMXtHCalz0B8bBF57ch6y726mJ5vgdGNhkgwWiWMQ72mUzBYo3jUInoN9tyHKzYjL25pfdsVnDgWccq18RO8JDsw-cqenrASwaFn9SE5t96yozlautqRlc9HQhtFn378qSE3b1JhfrgEVc/s320/20230808_180202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi ci limitiamo a goderne il centro, ampio e tranquillo, con grandi corsie riservate a pullman e bici dove si pedala in sicurezza nella golden hour che rende tutto poetico e dolcissimo di luce miele.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLvf3CtgWueKVuTG5kzn-L3pfTuKFo5uLvmodPNqX_G6NqhrLOr9UqrUSJMrN00W4Z_ibxqU5Lqsri5uTUm2N0qddMxSo1-dazIE3ScV9QJhctyuBW2MZTtYaufT4XkUCVdY-gFYpU2PqMTh1ANq-r3fdydRSnd4LGDndot-hNVgI7xFfaQwRRCVEaJtk/s1209/20230808_183430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLvf3CtgWueKVuTG5kzn-L3pfTuKFo5uLvmodPNqX_G6NqhrLOr9UqrUSJMrN00W4Z_ibxqU5Lqsri5uTUm2N0qddMxSo1-dazIE3ScV9QJhctyuBW2MZTtYaufT4XkUCVdY-gFYpU2PqMTh1ANq-r3fdydRSnd4LGDndot-hNVgI7xFfaQwRRCVEaJtk/s320/20230808_183430.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBbToQ1hIG_U-4RIFbl7vSe4dDlU85lPs0u1SlcqHjhnwFqmCpnZjLB7rsY_OmF7t_gfK7WsRkGtVJzuE_-lxM9cLf3VguPtL7wnGDTDVZikD7_CQLZ-qdXRnRtj6sdIKOPeADuJpWa3PRauT82HoHbaUipQxKnTHUnPeLq1vuRikF7yjwd-HmytiE40/s1209/20230808_183431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBbToQ1hIG_U-4RIFbl7vSe4dDlU85lPs0u1SlcqHjhnwFqmCpnZjLB7rsY_OmF7t_gfK7WsRkGtVJzuE_-lxM9cLf3VguPtL7wnGDTDVZikD7_CQLZ-qdXRnRtj6sdIKOPeADuJpWa3PRauT82HoHbaUipQxKnTHUnPeLq1vuRikF7yjwd-HmytiE40/s320/20230808_183431.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxuXk-7CS0bGz0_MeB1pfLjtUmBrvZjMrCJpogCEMe-w7Gi-iUvG3PvFzLPkWL71UAJkqG_-nbm9SpiGwMcwboJQSSJr9aPOpirZ8mM2xEw-tEhEp6A4PZWC0TivzVLk3RGWQvq9jXS-iQ58VYOnLoYafNNUUlhs2p0tGSxZPFs9R7Cqr1pl47hrvYUw/s1209/20230808_184033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxuXk-7CS0bGz0_MeB1pfLjtUmBrvZjMrCJpogCEMe-w7Gi-iUvG3PvFzLPkWL71UAJkqG_-nbm9SpiGwMcwboJQSSJr9aPOpirZ8mM2xEw-tEhEp6A4PZWC0TivzVLk3RGWQvq9jXS-iQ58VYOnLoYafNNUUlhs2p0tGSxZPFs9R7Cqr1pl47hrvYUw/s320/20230808_184033.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYivh14ZA6VW4N_vWn8oj1jjMgTHfC361s6KdHUZPhQaAGDIp7zb5hMNTRU_M0gckrcrJukFYQc34uNbICdGE8M4fprvrKk93oeW4BTmB1b8VEfVYujXlkl9AimGWSfOnrRNJ6-drVlVDLC1GOIpoHq2YevKHFLyD5ThsRdsPVWJsaQdvKIS_ow2sMKiY/s1209/20230808_184036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYivh14ZA6VW4N_vWn8oj1jjMgTHfC361s6KdHUZPhQaAGDIp7zb5hMNTRU_M0gckrcrJukFYQc34uNbICdGE8M4fprvrKk93oeW4BTmB1b8VEfVYujXlkl9AimGWSfOnrRNJ6-drVlVDLC1GOIpoHq2YevKHFLyD5ThsRdsPVWJsaQdvKIS_ow2sMKiY/s320/20230808_184036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo il check in in quello che ci si presenta come un ostello religioso (no alcol, no fumo, no droghe, no uscite dopo le 23, no risate o manifestazioni di gioia moleste, sì Vangelo in camera), usciamo a cena in un ristorante che fa soprattutto carne alla griglia, tanto che, entrando, c'è una testa di toro mozzata e sanguinolenta accanto alla parrilla. L'interno è decorato con animali imbalsamati di ogni genere (compreso un puma... Ma è legale?) e selle e ferri di cavallo. Noi prendiamo le uniche portate non di carne, io una sopa azteca e Gigi un queso volcan, che è un kilo di formaggio fuso con salsiccia. Mentre ceniamo, scoppia un temporale pazzesco, con lampi che squarciano il cielo e tuoni che fan tremare i vetri. Piove a secchiate, tutto si allaga, va persino via la corrente. Anche ora qui in ostello manca. Per fortuna andando a nord si va verso la zona dei deserti! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHkKD2kVX9nSJ-rADZi2nO5VMceKn8YZTFojhKzzaRY0tuYS2OZyi-O4ZQtaAnPTKDbDSr7xefhiR8UyvN21e7oKqJW1ICGA-t6uoWHoVyQ0Hm0TKQz0YOV8PQNxiSTjVW5PsABtFbKy7L5CmQ20kEGCQvXizRS05DvpWiBfSqUrSz0JyslnZX_wLdkmM/s1209/20230808_194515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHkKD2kVX9nSJ-rADZi2nO5VMceKn8YZTFojhKzzaRY0tuYS2OZyi-O4ZQtaAnPTKDbDSr7xefhiR8UyvN21e7oKqJW1ICGA-t6uoWHoVyQ0Hm0TKQz0YOV8PQNxiSTjVW5PsABtFbKy7L5CmQ20kEGCQvXizRS05DvpWiBfSqUrSz0JyslnZX_wLdkmM/s320/20230808_194515.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXHZfuE6V4SBusARqb1hyzJnDf83vyrbBjRSUwV36jiRJlRtkjW5aH3C3Glysat-b0A2qeqXtrYZ2SOO1Cfs27Y6EavFJxqiHfG1g9J6UzvF8c7hasZNxCrFOACpVpqe1I-FoEGIz2B7YowdU87Fw2OcOnjVNPymzoV0ZQlvECphRjYB6gQz5GphT4uGI/s1209/20230808_194520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXHZfuE6V4SBusARqb1hyzJnDf83vyrbBjRSUwV36jiRJlRtkjW5aH3C3Glysat-b0A2qeqXtrYZ2SOO1Cfs27Y6EavFJxqiHfG1g9J6UzvF8c7hasZNxCrFOACpVpqe1I-FoEGIz2B7YowdU87Fw2OcOnjVNPymzoV0ZQlvECphRjYB6gQz5GphT4uGI/s320/20230808_194520.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQtDcWmaNo7KmVm1YSQH0jEBGFIMDjMb7YwTWf3YpzaZX4luI8kSCo4-EZklyks5GS-6Y_xOMZrgnSIeULr0324pXh8SacOb5lpwoPMUaFBC_Yp1IbUYNhpE6wVKf-AUhoJU2Z_E4O5_lGDKbqcJHjskqW47hTMS7K-hZQ4jrOkEA45-3qejBztC43IE/s1209/20230808_194526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQtDcWmaNo7KmVm1YSQH0jEBGFIMDjMb7YwTWf3YpzaZX4luI8kSCo4-EZklyks5GS-6Y_xOMZrgnSIeULr0324pXh8SacOb5lpwoPMUaFBC_Yp1IbUYNhpE6wVKf-AUhoJU2Z_E4O5_lGDKbqcJHjskqW47hTMS7K-hZQ4jrOkEA45-3qejBztC43IE/s320/20230808_194526.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3kuDkdlOpc-UTzyCenL0RjxMR0H9-NYvfyDIEJvFEBTqzqZG34LrhLEk5Rkb4enNhai2tInJt_vGpP3lxidiJ33yMxQqOOchftldWrKgzaLX9HJnd-zFYMIqQ3lv6FsYVA3fpTZ0qWZ488XRjR9FUccl2Nc3873hehYTlTis4T_4yYfwEDx0aekDc7Q/s1209/20230808_194535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3kuDkdlOpc-UTzyCenL0RjxMR0H9-NYvfyDIEJvFEBTqzqZG34LrhLEk5Rkb4enNhai2tInJt_vGpP3lxidiJ33yMxQqOOchftldWrKgzaLX9HJnd-zFYMIqQ3lv6FsYVA3fpTZ0qWZ488XRjR9FUccl2Nc3873hehYTlTis4T_4yYfwEDx0aekDc7Q/s320/20230808_194535.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Domani gireremo brevemente Queretaro per poi dirigerci a ovest, verso lo stato di Guanjuato, precisamente a Salamanca. Puntiamo a Guadalajara, in Jalisco, e per arrivarci impiegheremo 4 giorni, sfiorando anche il Michoacan. Siamo in zone fortemente interessate dal narcotraffico, dove la Farnesina segnala scontri tra bande criminali e tra queste e le forze dell'ordine. Ma tra questi monti, che digradano pian piano verso la costa, si nascondono perle di rara bellezza. Basta stare attenti a chi si sfancula mentre si pedala!</div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-523921929219659042023-08-06T10:06:00.000+02:002023-08-06T10:06:14.542+02:0043-45. Pedalare a Città del Messico. Pietra del sole, dagli aztechi a Paz il tempo circolare della morte e dell'amore<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiSuHWDUcWIbNm3dj_boO4o-4RxNb8weuBpUOTKZGSX9-RY0hYyDv4f7nElcxBKayJZZUOXsSl4E-Z4gn8ZbP45vZzHmkyPUe48sigqKy7Klx6sT2HfF7CEge8HjgWl-srUjADulR0hmJU0QCv2gnjt-LuMjqK8rJe_nKhydnIivwLEsLA0P8xQ1Xbd8/s1209/20230805_094334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpiSuHWDUcWIbNm3dj_boO4o-4RxNb8weuBpUOTKZGSX9-RY0hYyDv4f7nElcxBKayJZZUOXsSl4E-Z4gn8ZbP45vZzHmkyPUe48sigqKy7Klx6sT2HfF7CEge8HjgWl-srUjADulR0hmJU0QCv2gnjt-LuMjqK8rJe_nKhydnIivwLEsLA0P8xQ1Xbd8/w640-h480/20230805_094334.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqLMLBHjl1CpGcPXpEWuN9WIVyHot7MDz4CnbO-DPtbduxfMQ09H_hQ-SHA1avA8N0M1-wyS1q2MyZ30xHc_LhZW_KFe2UDDuRdLyIT4kAvnGLqpo0xNPKejDG4h5AdBD_gwrfPw3--Nyn9MrvZLVi9h14iixfcheunRgKGtJ5LceEjFKgrxe8g_nND4/s1209/20230805_163926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqLMLBHjl1CpGcPXpEWuN9WIVyHot7MDz4CnbO-DPtbduxfMQ09H_hQ-SHA1avA8N0M1-wyS1q2MyZ30xHc_LhZW_KFe2UDDuRdLyIT4kAvnGLqpo0xNPKejDG4h5AdBD_gwrfPw3--Nyn9MrvZLVi9h14iixfcheunRgKGtJ5LceEjFKgrxe8g_nND4/w640-h480/20230805_163926.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv031RoVdi4XON0ZSss7U4T-rh7imv69H1sezAmfNkqB6j2y_4G3fMMwoWjNVDePUxo70E3VvDfi1Z3i8BZ7t0_5trcr9hQyqMB0BpFkr6lnnSk57E5LeFr-y2sMhdNCfUfHkOVX7_kCXQsF_P601EuMWCBd1XtsF3TMHRF2w07VZkYCzAsBzcGC1px1s/s1209/20230805_120603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv031RoVdi4XON0ZSss7U4T-rh7imv69H1sezAmfNkqB6j2y_4G3fMMwoWjNVDePUxo70E3VvDfi1Z3i8BZ7t0_5trcr9hQyqMB0BpFkr6lnnSk57E5LeFr-y2sMhdNCfUfHkOVX7_kCXQsF_P601EuMWCBd1XtsF3TMHRF2w07VZkYCzAsBzcGC1px1s/w640-h480/20230805_120603.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilDiFbN1me9EULm_ztSaCUlCA101FNWTr1BsP5smgoMafgCI9mEpdlX6_bXS6aANplVSa52gd6wyOMh1miXhkXgmDesqY_v08I_d4tumI5h1hJUF8QIBRYPlM8vFUWSTIAWhmJM-3hjD5Xm4ocIfiht0yKKuzm6fjB4iDt6dGNuIvo0tu3cqcuTSHHPMQ/s1209/20230803_130410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilDiFbN1me9EULm_ztSaCUlCA101FNWTr1BsP5smgoMafgCI9mEpdlX6_bXS6aANplVSa52gd6wyOMh1miXhkXgmDesqY_v08I_d4tumI5h1hJUF8QIBRYPlM8vFUWSTIAWhmJM-3hjD5Xm4ocIfiht0yKKuzm6fjB4iDt6dGNuIvo0tu3cqcuTSHHPMQ/w640-h480/20230803_130410.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgldzP96eQGtXZUScvG96Jcps5O2p6whzhc1axj2dAgpYSGKLtBeaGNK7h9bgc0P0HR0E5qlFKQLQ_wSTy39Xdgr3a0UMdB-nfv2HlY-qoMrQ5iKX7BGHCUkeeMPsbbVcLcO1X788H3od7pSyNApkOexN0MCopVU_5ZHd854foChgK-k4hsBHsz417mezs/s1209/20230804_140325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgldzP96eQGtXZUScvG96Jcps5O2p6whzhc1axj2dAgpYSGKLtBeaGNK7h9bgc0P0HR0E5qlFKQLQ_wSTy39Xdgr3a0UMdB-nfv2HlY-qoMrQ5iKX7BGHCUkeeMPsbbVcLcO1X788H3od7pSyNApkOexN0MCopVU_5ZHd854foChgK-k4hsBHsz417mezs/w480-h640/20230804_140325.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">3/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">Tlacotepec de Benito Juarez-Puebla de Los Angeles</div><div style="text-align: left;">84km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Che giornata densissima, oggi! Non solo abbiamo pedalato la nostra bella tappa, superando i 2300m di quota e attraversando pueblos tanto caotici quanto caratteristici, ma abbiamo anche fatto in tempo a godere di alcune meraviglie che Angelopolis, la capitale dello stato di Puebla, offre a chi ha la fortuna di visitarla. La manciata di km che separa il paesino da cui siamo partiti stamattina dalla città si rivela una distanza siderale, anni e anni luce. Da un lato servizi ridotti all'essenziale e pure meno, infrastrutture devastate, edifici fatiscenti, baracche, polvere, rifiuti e cani randagi. Dall'altro lo sfarzo, il lusso, la ricchezza in tutti i sensi (storica, culturale, ma anche materiale), il consumismo globalizzato spinto al massimo. Il troppo poco e il troppo. Tutto in poche ore di bicicletta. Ho due immagini che mi sono rimaste impresse come pietre di paragone. A Tlacotepec un ragazzino sugli undici anni che sta al bancone di un negozio di alimentari e gestisce la baracca e la sorellina; a Puebla i suoi coetanei che fanno i capricci perchè vogliono altri spicci per la sala giochi del mercato coperto (ma sempre a Puebla un altro bimbo poco più piccolo sta buttato davanti a una frequentatissima churreria a chiedere l'elemosina, e a guardare altri bambini uguali a lui, ma così diversi, che aspettano in coda il loro turno per i dolci e poi se ne vanno soddisfatti per mano alla nonna). Ancora, a Tlacotepec abbiamo fatto spesa in un piccolo supermercato, l'unico, con gli scaffali quasi del tutto vuoti. Aveva giusto un po' di scatolame, prodotti per la pulizia domestica e qualche bibita. A Puebla ci sono migliaia e migliaia di negozi e supermercati e bancarelle di tutti i generi, strabordati di merce, e non certo di prima necessità. Due mondi distinti.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma andiamo con ordine. Stamattina siamo partiti con un'aria frizzantina che ci ha convinti a indossare qualche strato antivento. Mentre riempivamo le borracce, prima di partire, siamo stati oggetto delle curiose, bonarie domande da parte di una pletora di residenti a passeggio e di venditori ambulanti che offrivano caffè e panini dai loro baracchini a bordo strada. Poi si è aggiunto anche il policia che, stanco di dirigere inutilmente il traffico, poco e già controllato dal semaforo, è venuto a conoscerci e presentarsi. Poi, a suon di fischietto, ci ha fatti attraversare bloccando platealmente il flusso dei veicoli e rallentando lo sviluppo delle Americhe.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Usciamo dal paese, nell'aria grigia contro cui spiccano gli edifici coloratissimi, e la strada si fa improvvisamente stretta e del tutti priva di bordo, con solo due corsie. Le auto ci pelano la fettina di prosciutto, i camion devono rallentare e aspettare di poterci superare, con gran rumore e qualche sclacsonata dalle retrovie. Insomma, come inizio di giornata è un po' stressante.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2w0bCNHeKkryqrhr2SO8VfBHKUgoPNPXBfn-mYeoxkWgXKGaqZllL8Ua7vRiN6F8MUuMW8nbmF0U2oNKVjsEzEheXtErgIvu5AGLi6O-p4ouNmwQWE52ILvhBdNyXU8QJDS410Z0HgMJ9RlTZrqEcau0H52yWXCLhAs7UoikmFvA78e82p4qhe0eze0/s1209/20230803_084822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv2w0bCNHeKkryqrhr2SO8VfBHKUgoPNPXBfn-mYeoxkWgXKGaqZllL8Ua7vRiN6F8MUuMW8nbmF0U2oNKVjsEzEheXtErgIvu5AGLi6O-p4ouNmwQWE52ILvhBdNyXU8QJDS410Z0HgMJ9RlTZrqEcau0H52yWXCLhAs7UoikmFvA78e82p4qhe0eze0/s320/20230803_084822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWdFFkTPkkdfxvbZXT6Cnj8gwc_p-bXXbc_6-x4VutiknynWG2pRrM3okV1DEf0AQ0xnIrooxjIFMJbI0_iKM1Ab11-3kF7RkAZlzwmfSQkRJDNloJZNg7j785ZX0Eb-GXlzbgIrYKX76qTlhK9rIjPJAzTBPI6vV7KhtqudRsZ-pGgseLlpq9UmqWyc/s1209/20230803_084829.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWdFFkTPkkdfxvbZXT6Cnj8gwc_p-bXXbc_6-x4VutiknynWG2pRrM3okV1DEf0AQ0xnIrooxjIFMJbI0_iKM1Ab11-3kF7RkAZlzwmfSQkRJDNloJZNg7j785ZX0Eb-GXlzbgIrYKX76qTlhK9rIjPJAzTBPI6vV7KhtqudRsZ-pGgseLlpq9UmqWyc/s320/20230803_084829.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmSJe-CsrUdHQt4aS_eGLJpBnHWpxG--gt_3ssimnbU21UUOs2-dAW-vLiAmE5pZjqnkUSS5nxYulrRyjj9NOSXMXMEkg9DndxjaulwGPmsFJAs5K9XhI-mG3rAY_W0enIJveVft2c2yDKk8AWD_JeEU1ULj1eKPMNcfZirIrLG51PiHiFwXemmuECoA/s1209/20230803_084833.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmSJe-CsrUdHQt4aS_eGLJpBnHWpxG--gt_3ssimnbU21UUOs2-dAW-vLiAmE5pZjqnkUSS5nxYulrRyjj9NOSXMXMEkg9DndxjaulwGPmsFJAs5K9XhI-mG3rAY_W0enIJveVft2c2yDKk8AWD_JeEU1ULj1eKPMNcfZirIrLG51PiHiFwXemmuECoA/s320/20230803_084833.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Tra un pueblo e l'altro, che anche oggi si susseguono uno dopo l'altro a breve distanza, ci sono campi di mais e pascoli un po' abbandonati, pieni di rifiuti o bruciati; nonostante ciò non mancano piccole greggi di pecore bianche con neri il muso, la testa e il collo, qualche cavallino magro e alcune mucche. A sorvegliarle donne, bambini o anziani, armati di fruste artigianali fatte con legni e corde. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_46ovGGSFpVW5odoAOvoHFrWi3ywRtfNbtOZLrtzM_xKnGjp_370HeSlIcDI7m1IEAnzPwbaaEqfCO3uPXFehB7uqT_r_Zpn9QpZGWd_kGjzZzpH4yaLvBoCgdSHNwz9JbOnimChHsM_RVrCnMTr7hNlV6WPTiBUL-64pgzMu1ErOrmgENa5qPNZKU0M/s1209/20230803_090244.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_46ovGGSFpVW5odoAOvoHFrWi3ywRtfNbtOZLrtzM_xKnGjp_370HeSlIcDI7m1IEAnzPwbaaEqfCO3uPXFehB7uqT_r_Zpn9QpZGWd_kGjzZzpH4yaLvBoCgdSHNwz9JbOnimChHsM_RVrCnMTr7hNlV6WPTiBUL-64pgzMu1ErOrmgENa5qPNZKU0M/s320/20230803_090244.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Superiamo un gran numero di piccole aziende familiari di produzione di mattoni. Di fronte a casa uno impasta, l'altro riempie le forme, un altro cuoce, e l'ultimo impila in strutture assai simili a quelle delle civiltà preispaniche. Qui non mancano i perri mali, da cui dobbiamo in più occasioni fuggire. Sono paesi, questi, grigi quanto basta, e mesti anche di più, dove vivono gran lavoratori che si spaccano le mani e la schiena. Se non per i mattoni, per il marmo, o il ferro, o la pietra intagliata. E' tutto un picchiare di martelli e stridere di lame, metallo contro roccia. Insomma non proprio un Carnevale di Rio.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmzNaV8Km6w7m_0_5pzAhvsa8v-cKR_gyF7Wry3CC9JW05zs26huqz6jKF1KTXBFDS287Q0KM5xGBAcQu7td02Qmh9DK7xuWYXG1iiQi9AUx8styIQhMTfyHoO2qrW2x-H4CakY9kk1Dh6c5QXsaiW9MH8L-yzPrS13HmCqn8JrNmGXpxE-pL-HUbWzI/s1209/20230803_090342.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmzNaV8Km6w7m_0_5pzAhvsa8v-cKR_gyF7Wry3CC9JW05zs26huqz6jKF1KTXBFDS287Q0KM5xGBAcQu7td02Qmh9DK7xuWYXG1iiQi9AUx8styIQhMTfyHoO2qrW2x-H4CakY9kk1Dh6c5QXsaiW9MH8L-yzPrS13HmCqn8JrNmGXpxE-pL-HUbWzI/s320/20230803_090342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0aYV8jpSvIzFGEiUbwVbidoc1-cccnliuLq6J1Afscq04CdGWtN4fu--q7MVN44yF3MUk3wZLYq7rerkLVPAkw7wcLbVgTkAmuCChNKtbgDn1Xq9UJ4VhgcGaYwpdmXXGZ05zFQ5OGtiimMJO41RNh8L6Bx5kup8N7BHgwNTTNsxLlYfZakH1JWNH-ow/s1209/20230803_093912.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0aYV8jpSvIzFGEiUbwVbidoc1-cccnliuLq6J1Afscq04CdGWtN4fu--q7MVN44yF3MUk3wZLYq7rerkLVPAkw7wcLbVgTkAmuCChNKtbgDn1Xq9UJ4VhgcGaYwpdmXXGZ05zFQ5OGtiimMJO41RNh8L6Bx5kup8N7BHgwNTTNsxLlYfZakH1JWNH-ow/s320/20230803_093912.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFiy2rClkgQmKH1QI6UXd0LX3Gw74XgGLpCMXCGRjItS056E5MbIrSdxqyNEgdS7Idck9nYoJCwgmOSHmHh4Q4ZjHIQygUlR9YChzyySg6xjYLOrnM9v7WgIUoda0NKvv-renbESrZ7rpe2LBXU48EMODWMsGWa2eDVwpoS1Z3aGoF_M1PJbLm3QCls8/s1209/20230803_094636.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFiy2rClkgQmKH1QI6UXd0LX3Gw74XgGLpCMXCGRjItS056E5MbIrSdxqyNEgdS7Idck9nYoJCwgmOSHmHh4Q4ZjHIQygUlR9YChzyySg6xjYLOrnM9v7WgIUoda0NKvv-renbESrZ7rpe2LBXU48EMODWMsGWa2eDVwpoS1Z3aGoF_M1PJbLm3QCls8/s320/20230803_094636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5gC6dEMtUGTbC1Ag3pHNZz9Lhx1OQAZXIAE6bUc2fKCekNclxpOX52wJ9lJNeeUIKtx68sX6AOab4_KUK7aMaPpiifWTIasmM-iSkVwDY2psKZTCN2lu4ej6pjrClV3fiamTQmtU2syxpnj24HuTaQdvr0Br8aJfoMA7TOjf1IufuqfnD9OBdKJe3uxU/s1209/20230803_094642.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5gC6dEMtUGTbC1Ag3pHNZz9Lhx1OQAZXIAE6bUc2fKCekNclxpOX52wJ9lJNeeUIKtx68sX6AOab4_KUK7aMaPpiifWTIasmM-iSkVwDY2psKZTCN2lu4ej6pjrClV3fiamTQmtU2syxpnj24HuTaQdvr0Br8aJfoMA7TOjf1IufuqfnD9OBdKJe3uxU/s320/20230803_094642.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIaztG7677_AjcbcJWTQ04SH-F48pEJfnKCvV9Cw2viZEIbUeJPYwQuZXIbqnWBBs5yw_4tmfrf94q4dGRz1YNQPyeLdHkm4E028Yi4FH9urQfnkY96SLeKivRpQoTZ6fDYTu1AcZu6ctXDjFXBMFxEDlqOFOi7kHAGoF1rAE6wrSzMJ_rHCkzS31OsXE/s1209/20230803_095254.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIaztG7677_AjcbcJWTQ04SH-F48pEJfnKCvV9Cw2viZEIbUeJPYwQuZXIbqnWBBs5yw_4tmfrf94q4dGRz1YNQPyeLdHkm4E028Yi4FH9urQfnkY96SLeKivRpQoTZ6fDYTu1AcZu6ctXDjFXBMFxEDlqOFOi7kHAGoF1rAE6wrSzMJ_rHCkzS31OsXE/s320/20230803_095254.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Arriviamo a Tecamalchaco, mascelle delle montagne/ della pietra in nahuatl, che con i suoi 71.000 abitanti riesce a produrre un ingorgo di traffico degno di una megalopoli. Questa città, fondata da tribù popoloca nel 1441 e sottomessa a Tlacotepec, fu poi conquistata dagli spagnoli e cristianizzata dai francescani. E' piuttosto vivace quanto a feste, sagre, ricorrenze di paese, ed è nota per la carne di pecora grigliata sul barbeque. Noi ne assaporiamo solo l'inquinamento da motori vecchi e fumanti nubi nere che fanno pizzicare il naso e irritano la gola.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4xStvmZikuk_KGtekD3J7iyV3SzAVVi34mXbGvLnVgP0NZQypt5X7zhR5-4766QEQ2BOZ6_Q5_puQj_vKpHIa202_0HxsA-dH0Y-a5sXXYAJNLC5fgA6Hb1yeLH7pNkhw6k4HmQ7MxS-5YP9Za5WtudRw9N4Ou9i_bfgsGhUURqsNsJb-_LqRigvxD8/s1209/20230803_100049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4xStvmZikuk_KGtekD3J7iyV3SzAVVi34mXbGvLnVgP0NZQypt5X7zhR5-4766QEQ2BOZ6_Q5_puQj_vKpHIa202_0HxsA-dH0Y-a5sXXYAJNLC5fgA6Hb1yeLH7pNkhw6k4HmQ7MxS-5YP9Za5WtudRw9N4Ou9i_bfgsGhUURqsNsJb-_LqRigvxD8/s320/20230803_100049.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEVIfdjvWDzghelAM8yXeEhQOXRZk-Mcm1ke3pouRCGvsyzhMmKet-x7w8XKpVFh5-fIeIgDow00Cz6IBelTMqxDFR_6I6KG8SXhrCzsfy0Pi8IxQWbIzidSUVgl12Ic39odVIXYzxZjXlwh0PEtuTvKmiQQ3q0BGE5hYOcyOm_JmBsdx8UAb0NAVPUsc/s1209/20230803_100303.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEVIfdjvWDzghelAM8yXeEhQOXRZk-Mcm1ke3pouRCGvsyzhMmKet-x7w8XKpVFh5-fIeIgDow00Cz6IBelTMqxDFR_6I6KG8SXhrCzsfy0Pi8IxQWbIzidSUVgl12Ic39odVIXYzxZjXlwh0PEtuTvKmiQQ3q0BGE5hYOcyOm_JmBsdx8UAb0NAVPUsc/s320/20230803_100303.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivRVARDL7ayYpS0lE2dRfktuVpM3qihuEaT7b7JltsNjVlcpPoSzWFdUkoRx9gP5wTA06Y05NG3QLribeGV0p4z0ohtyGvFXhPwGs2-vkQ0jc-ARBXvDvOrMnsV5rFavE91PcuN2_OZDT-2dYPfDMvB4lvpNZDWepHRMJL-AwjzeoeNWAVe4QniisJ64U/s1209/20230803_101436.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivRVARDL7ayYpS0lE2dRfktuVpM3qihuEaT7b7JltsNjVlcpPoSzWFdUkoRx9gP5wTA06Y05NG3QLribeGV0p4z0ohtyGvFXhPwGs2-vkQ0jc-ARBXvDvOrMnsV5rFavE91PcuN2_OZDT-2dYPfDMvB4lvpNZDWepHRMJL-AwjzeoeNWAVe4QniisJ64U/s320/20230803_101436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2L7y6VSo2PCxpMI7QPraQdtRjrAbadry3EgMkSqjsUwdfohNc2hp0uxZWqCwkn5UPobkR4c1VfqILtwpwR6X1i0O0OOA0GYiycYT6a3PapRXskbhFl1tsNf_Kc8VwFkLQ3HGTWV5Xg7ZthRj5HtHsxYKFrSdzLT-KUXGsi37SrP_qiS1Fx3g-GoppFs/s1209/20230803_101558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2L7y6VSo2PCxpMI7QPraQdtRjrAbadry3EgMkSqjsUwdfohNc2hp0uxZWqCwkn5UPobkR4c1VfqILtwpwR6X1i0O0OOA0GYiycYT6a3PapRXskbhFl1tsNf_Kc8VwFkLQ3HGTWV5Xg7ZthRj5HtHsxYKFrSdzLT-KUXGsi37SrP_qiS1Fx3g-GoppFs/s320/20230803_101558.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Seguiamo la strada, che ci porta ad inanellare una serie di cittadine dai mercati super caotici, che si svolgono tutti a bordo strada, anzi, sulla strada, in un via vai di furgoni stracarichi di persone e ortaggi, polli e maiali, e poi motorini, camion, tricicli, carriole, gente che vende, che compra, che sposta cose pesanti. Un delirio di casino! </div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7p55rwuY2pMoebnnXplXPYYZo75HtpYPNkJtAtyeMEEv_RdGX1tQm-nrIVsiSe74PLHB_42sHlWuxA3B4iRgrX-7YeX1IghdWZc55qX3VT6gAC8_wV8Vn-TZi3EBFcRlihyMcQG9uLrNfviQ6Oq7jDiFEOMrGOYH5Ae7agzEKu0myoYI6P4g1-XerCc/s1209/20230803_102128.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7p55rwuY2pMoebnnXplXPYYZo75HtpYPNkJtAtyeMEEv_RdGX1tQm-nrIVsiSe74PLHB_42sHlWuxA3B4iRgrX-7YeX1IghdWZc55qX3VT6gAC8_wV8Vn-TZi3EBFcRlihyMcQG9uLrNfviQ6Oq7jDiFEOMrGOYH5Ae7agzEKu0myoYI6P4g1-XerCc/s320/20230803_102128.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Salvador Huixocolotla (in nahuatl "luogo delle spine")</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbsXJEcyS-che_RImOQN7rgthQIlAhbZI0HEDKsERCGOdJQwxsxKzf7P2Wm0YPsYJUN4VEfzvWCn1d4faGCMUETZoTkyZNkz1Xw26K8kTZD_8UJWrJ0DQuvvbGccpqQRt-peu9cp9FnpXOZBA2hf7Nj5cHUZNrsve5V1H_LicdWS7gc9qnRpRXqNbnkA/s1209/20230803_102555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzbsXJEcyS-che_RImOQN7rgthQIlAhbZI0HEDKsERCGOdJQwxsxKzf7P2Wm0YPsYJUN4VEfzvWCn1d4faGCMUETZoTkyZNkz1Xw26K8kTZD_8UJWrJ0DQuvvbGccpqQRt-peu9cp9FnpXOZBA2hf7Nj5cHUZNrsve5V1H_LicdWS7gc9qnRpRXqNbnkA/s320/20230803_102555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5KVaKThuJAgYurygB0ogCCJe855Z1r41-MPYkIvXiwaQmDDU-5VEUX9cZLJUcXAzodcRlPq2M1H3oKLm_r5r_jlljCSE9_Q3xCP2eRIWrhRHYfiazDxE0OqcyxTPNMsgdfiNSibmR1LAzsDZhqEYXAzk8HLSXWTQEkTDqxPMMHDncrIK5GaGPUIzVUEA/s1209/20230803_102557.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5KVaKThuJAgYurygB0ogCCJe855Z1r41-MPYkIvXiwaQmDDU-5VEUX9cZLJUcXAzodcRlPq2M1H3oKLm_r5r_jlljCSE9_Q3xCP2eRIWrhRHYfiazDxE0OqcyxTPNMsgdfiNSibmR1LAzsDZhqEYXAzk8HLSXWTQEkTDqxPMMHDncrIK5GaGPUIzVUEA/s320/20230803_102557.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqp5P4212E_ULn6rZt2YoadocULXN57DkEnkduoLVNuvM-XFNJq8bp_aJBGYXyF23B-RVY6CtWA2RGDeh-YeNsTMMYdmXUHm6_BqiiPowJvdLR88UR_Rbwom-Q58ESlHoTWzIoICrQZGryVntpukYz0wOW_LmRG63NP06F0Q6xxGFFyN-OTw8xmm6dRA/s1209/20230803_102558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqp5P4212E_ULn6rZt2YoadocULXN57DkEnkduoLVNuvM-XFNJq8bp_aJBGYXyF23B-RVY6CtWA2RGDeh-YeNsTMMYdmXUHm6_BqiiPowJvdLR88UR_Rbwom-Q58ESlHoTWzIoICrQZGryVntpukYz0wOW_LmRG63NP06F0Q6xxGFFyN-OTw8xmm6dRA/s320/20230803_102558.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwivYwzeyCN5sY5X-nY14B3bF2PtCpPBCqSE4m8y3C4AW-K8QkuIalzJLKoE5Ou774iHRdWDPhY5KSrOmLIpGuJBf_fAhrVMUOoAAVFFG_k121-S9lRn0w0oq3z9BhWcZG5OiRVMlu-kxyeSueIE_CIXVbeXwjZCkQFudu-c3UBU53CBbudW8qXxWGvGQ/s1209/20230803_102604.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwivYwzeyCN5sY5X-nY14B3bF2PtCpPBCqSE4m8y3C4AW-K8QkuIalzJLKoE5Ou774iHRdWDPhY5KSrOmLIpGuJBf_fAhrVMUOoAAVFFG_k121-S9lRn0w0oq3z9BhWcZG5OiRVMlu-kxyeSueIE_CIXVbeXwjZCkQFudu-c3UBU53CBbudW8qXxWGvGQ/s320/20230803_102604.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">questi ragazzi danzano e cantano in abiti tradizionali tra le bancarelle e la strada. Ma perchè.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZaz72PfRu2LlUW6w1XPmJX4uMcUL4OrVvw41ICdRLwKA-U_c_7YkhyVu1RHm0gBx6pF6tK0nQEFelSwZdXC9g5JDa-7MesgIq7XfJIpEuAKQkbNgluydBBVpydChjqEzQMZpJI6uo95YB5xyRLW2qhqHi19rhyXDt_eccXBc36oeaLznZIlzSXoX8lm0/s1209/20230803_103836.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZaz72PfRu2LlUW6w1XPmJX4uMcUL4OrVvw41ICdRLwKA-U_c_7YkhyVu1RHm0gBx6pF6tK0nQEFelSwZdXC9g5JDa-7MesgIq7XfJIpEuAKQkbNgluydBBVpydChjqEzQMZpJI6uo95YB5xyRLW2qhqHi19rhyXDt_eccXBc36oeaLznZIlzSXoX8lm0/s320/20230803_103836.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzU5Riox_FM4ljSdq-NUsMDr6bYlGUNvygeTjop5bRZk9VHTv3cOfujX3_byjW3yKNXyrX4oReF5FOecWT4EmG1e6IIRZJWpadXSVbozGJqcldJ5GN_eQRIFRBu5LkPMJLBJ1PQXdejb2bQeTsNuKLXfeWvob1T4KXOXOEmUAia2jnEYnJ2Adzwlq8g0/s1209/20230803_112325.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzU5Riox_FM4ljSdq-NUsMDr6bYlGUNvygeTjop5bRZk9VHTv3cOfujX3_byjW3yKNXyrX4oReF5FOecWT4EmG1e6IIRZJWpadXSVbozGJqcldJ5GN_eQRIFRBu5LkPMJLBJ1PQXdejb2bQeTsNuKLXfeWvob1T4KXOXOEmUAia2jnEYnJ2Adzwlq8g0/s320/20230803_112325.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cavalli, cartelli, macerie</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVICbu56JLxjWzwDXncsqlFyitrHM9Tc7e9CGaTaf9_S1b2x6sLFR4hjcn6136KMCf8yOVJSz01MBX9cmlqbBS9SavQaQyob5HpFu3iHKTJ6atODNa5gATDMBl7Ou0NNDK5TfJjDXxpF63-a3uuNQmH2hkXi63AD7tqjWRxFCMuHyhmntUUJSnYSTky8/s1209/20230803_113822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVICbu56JLxjWzwDXncsqlFyitrHM9Tc7e9CGaTaf9_S1b2x6sLFR4hjcn6136KMCf8yOVJSz01MBX9cmlqbBS9SavQaQyob5HpFu3iHKTJ6atODNa5gATDMBl7Ou0NNDK5TfJjDXxpF63-a3uuNQmH2hkXi63AD7tqjWRxFCMuHyhmntUUJSnYSTky8/s320/20230803_113822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Arriviamo a Tepeaca ("all'inizio dei monti"), altra città che supera i 70.000 abitanti. Qui si lavorano onice e marmo, e si venera un'icona di Gesù Bambino dottore degli infermi. La città, fondata dopo la migrazione tolteca e chichimeca del XII secolo, fu sottomessa dagli aztechi. Era uno snodo fondamentale per i commerci tra la costa e l'entroterra, tanto che Cortes in persona fondò qui una nuova città dopo aver distrutto quella già esistente, i cui abitanti avevano ammazzato alcuni spagnoli. Notevole l'antico convento francescano, che spicca sugli altri edifici contornato da alture brulle.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVp0axLnAcykGZhav2ZfzYXU8bU0wqJ646hU98iNt5elxki7xN84w2bJgLMGAVG8PyaKQFDmHUSogzVXy3gRdawa7t-zXxaMBZogPjdBxFNXuYJgXniAxbfTsaG6dr7qzwFRZAeoelYGLww43o8R2m8ZV2xE0-F_23JnHpiNFtZVGg9O2BDSeXzLjjCEU/s1209/20230803_115055.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVp0axLnAcykGZhav2ZfzYXU8bU0wqJ646hU98iNt5elxki7xN84w2bJgLMGAVG8PyaKQFDmHUSogzVXy3gRdawa7t-zXxaMBZogPjdBxFNXuYJgXniAxbfTsaG6dr7qzwFRZAeoelYGLww43o8R2m8ZV2xE0-F_23JnHpiNFtZVGg9O2BDSeXzLjjCEU/s320/20230803_115055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhMjQ9H23A7uIxYJAzt4b_DGxRvhUrnjsR363uX9Nu2EhXKPzcuC46yyDnJ3lEpbMAVQiciCddHVXMT5Wq_XFp7ofYGze4jJQyEcDy5ZlVu5kP69lAq6J9JYGC4R_6WZGWRLSjA8XZPoWWGm_xuIWx3sKpGtzjiZOpfaq2mxsXAXPr-JXfHXUvR7uSRE/s1209/20230803_124635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhMjQ9H23A7uIxYJAzt4b_DGxRvhUrnjsR363uX9Nu2EhXKPzcuC46yyDnJ3lEpbMAVQiciCddHVXMT5Wq_XFp7ofYGze4jJQyEcDy5ZlVu5kP69lAq6J9JYGC4R_6WZGWRLSjA8XZPoWWGm_xuIWx3sKpGtzjiZOpfaq2mxsXAXPr-JXfHXUvR7uSRE/s320/20230803_124635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUYE0k1M31fK7Drp-9BoZ30CkFLwmDMrDVwi0lPm7cYgGg-Cy--Tso5qjg77iFWNUkvGAgfRrWOPeNVDo596XQrLwkts3nOjMcrqKe-TC0o2d1Ma8TdkYxbSRf_3x8rbu2ZZwjPv8lHUXTgYYK6U_WSl06YXYEfd4Oj329uxY1tt4EqsW-Acp0IxbEg4/s1209/20230803_124638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUYE0k1M31fK7Drp-9BoZ30CkFLwmDMrDVwi0lPm7cYgGg-Cy--Tso5qjg77iFWNUkvGAgfRrWOPeNVDo596XQrLwkts3nOjMcrqKe-TC0o2d1Ma8TdkYxbSRf_3x8rbu2ZZwjPv8lHUXTgYYK6U_WSl06YXYEfd4Oj329uxY1tt4EqsW-Acp0IxbEg4/s320/20230803_124638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Poco prima di raggiungere Amozoc ci fermiamo per una pausa. Ci rendiamo conto qui di quanto l'aria abbia rinfrescato. In fondo siamo a 2300m di quota e pioviggina... Ma la calura tremenda dei giorni scorsi sembra così lontana da ricordare un altro pianeta. Sullo sfondo compare, inconfondibile, il profilo austero della quinta vetta più alta del Messico, la Malinche, con i suoi 4460m di altezza. Il nome è quello della discussa amante e interprete nativa di Cortes. Il vulcano è spento e meta di trekking, per quanto la neve ne imbianchi la vetta solo poche settimane l'anno, intorno a maggio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0LYbWF0tphtlpBrPP5GSOe7Ic8I6DJbVbAih88qNj30eEnjo6RYbN-7390v32l78vaDJ3QWQvpbvLXDRLSPRTGccHmcHAVwg1RjU_AclMLIGTspwF_Lb5bkgk2G9I3rVro8nTw27jhfpFqkGCG59wcJpOgLWiN3ge0JcFyhGp8SEr_fhNaMzkTgsHcA/s1209/20230803_130404.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0LYbWF0tphtlpBrPP5GSOe7Ic8I6DJbVbAih88qNj30eEnjo6RYbN-7390v32l78vaDJ3QWQvpbvLXDRLSPRTGccHmcHAVwg1RjU_AclMLIGTspwF_Lb5bkgk2G9I3rVro8nTw27jhfpFqkGCG59wcJpOgLWiN3ge0JcFyhGp8SEr_fhNaMzkTgsHcA/s320/20230803_130404.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEjTKUBN0vX182SWHt965XIOpnt6mpqeYLmeEUKTTVfDDg16txdUumLL2jq0oZIcmvgaTzovafiC5Wmp1v5EbEDXV3OsPC-F4b9ZUVN2ReVmQdlVx1Tt8zNl-DrRk2e77QmIEt5MJ1DCBobuNj97Vs6QvuVMaaF4UNvYwjFMC3Dxj4CGm4YQwubLgvmU/s1209/20230803_130407.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEjTKUBN0vX182SWHt965XIOpnt6mpqeYLmeEUKTTVfDDg16txdUumLL2jq0oZIcmvgaTzovafiC5Wmp1v5EbEDXV3OsPC-F4b9ZUVN2ReVmQdlVx1Tt8zNl-DrRk2e77QmIEt5MJ1DCBobuNj97Vs6QvuVMaaF4UNvYwjFMC3Dxj4CGm4YQwubLgvmU/s320/20230803_130407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOTyRFj9JmWwenUBBzsPK22aIafHPMd_X1iR0m7Pv5-n-3Oe2hOdAH3zrMHZAftBLTHC7Rq2DvSjdKWUhl17-8lfWc4wkqi-vC-zPaDx1bOMcXAm7Joq84xEsZJJzNkqyYy5kL2NEF_rLb801FyDU6trRlNnIiUH4Btg_FAdA_46mSaCwtuNrY1xv0rJk/s1209/20230803_130410.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOTyRFj9JmWwenUBBzsPK22aIafHPMd_X1iR0m7Pv5-n-3Oe2hOdAH3zrMHZAftBLTHC7Rq2DvSjdKWUhl17-8lfWc4wkqi-vC-zPaDx1bOMcXAm7Joq84xEsZJJzNkqyYy5kL2NEF_rLb801FyDU6trRlNnIiUH4Btg_FAdA_46mSaCwtuNrY1xv0rJk/s320/20230803_130410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJV0qixrAIqMEvvJIOV0tqDQDFuNKCHeIuXNEpfZSkZ8Ii8dMckQVDqScLhs8fgkgAIZiDpiG9wuhNoz3SfFOpnfsE8Kmy9kvmYwvxTloFZeUrGPv0BKV5jsNJ3PosA3ErxsV1v3u4z4y88Tgbz187-V10cs0MzIxGG055DD9mSSY0hGzpb1bD6t0Gqc/s1209/20230803_130951.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJV0qixrAIqMEvvJIOV0tqDQDFuNKCHeIuXNEpfZSkZ8Ii8dMckQVDqScLhs8fgkgAIZiDpiG9wuhNoz3SfFOpnfsE8Kmy9kvmYwvxTloFZeUrGPv0BKV5jsNJ3PosA3ErxsV1v3u4z4y88Tgbz187-V10cs0MzIxGG055DD9mSSY0hGzpb1bD6t0Gqc/s320/20230803_130951.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhOEwm6sS9kunON7qMbD0mZuFc4fECa0JwulOuszeJiqxspDHzO8CPN42NxUKq6RXUbfwog-aJvyho6uUL3GYzFLKiwkPl7ATaEYyemlNd5XtRkYL7Q42EENm627frghVMsuATVDOjGC830-S-ch95NkTnNOv-xYyVaX9_8fgcPjX7LpDtLj-EahCCEY/s1209/20230803_133647.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhOEwm6sS9kunON7qMbD0mZuFc4fECa0JwulOuszeJiqxspDHzO8CPN42NxUKq6RXUbfwog-aJvyho6uUL3GYzFLKiwkPl7ATaEYyemlNd5XtRkYL7Q42EENm627frghVMsuATVDOjGC830-S-ch95NkTnNOv-xYyVaX9_8fgcPjX7LpDtLj-EahCCEY/s320/20230803_133647.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpyDownPKDpbG6rRf3O7rj07_1iZWlcCVULjiTIzu7goCzWnRn_AqBbvPOoieTGDgE0w1Xb_JAgPiQ2Ko8TINXIIoOl5nsm0mC3Dbpu_xW2jfl4DVzCDXDy5B7QPj--tryVooZen58nfLxlKdv7kP83VS_PNDwFL9m4TVvuomAtwV7TAgBf39vscQ5Owk/s1209/20230803_133810.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpyDownPKDpbG6rRf3O7rj07_1iZWlcCVULjiTIzu7goCzWnRn_AqBbvPOoieTGDgE0w1Xb_JAgPiQ2Ko8TINXIIoOl5nsm0mC3Dbpu_xW2jfl4DVzCDXDy5B7QPj--tryVooZen58nfLxlKdv7kP83VS_PNDwFL9m4TVvuomAtwV7TAgBf39vscQ5Owk/s320/20230803_133810.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la mascotte di una farmacia, che balla in costume sul marciapiede</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Con una lunga, dolce, piacevolissima discesa arriviamo a Puebla, a 2150m. Questa capitale, un tempo roccaforte conservatrice del cattolicesimo e della tradizione, è uscita dal suo guscio coloniale, pur conservando un magnifico centro storico, innumerevoli chiese ed edifici storici restaurati. Non mancano, stando a quanto ho letto, un contesto artistico vibrante di novità, un'animata vita notturna e il solito vivace e coloratissimo casino di artisti di strada, ambulanti e mercati.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Nel solo centro storico ci sono 70 chiese, 1000 edifici coloniali abbelliti da piastrelle talavera (ceramica dipinta) e un'esagerazione di ristoranti e localini che offrono le specialità gastronomiche locali (larve di formica, i vermi gusani, un fungo infestante del mais, le cavallette e il più appetibile, per me, chile en nogada, un peperone verde ripieno di carne e frutta secca, coperto da una crema di noci e cosparso di chicchi di melograno.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Attraversiamo le tranquille periferie e l'affollato centro, dove si trova il nostro albergo (San Angel). E' un posto ingiustificatamente fighetto, cosa che non mi aspettavo quando ho prenotato su Booking alla cifra di 22 euro per la doppia con bagno privato. Vero, è a un passo dallo zocalo. Vero anche che si trova in un edificio coloniale. Ma non ha l'acqua calda, il wifi è inesistente... Insomma, pensavo fosse un posto alla buona. Invece, quando entriamo (direttamente nella hall con le bici) ci troviamo sotto lo sguardo allibito e parzialmente schifato della receptionist e degli avventori del ristorante che trova poco dopo l'ingresso. Da qui in poi veniamo seguiti a giro stretto da un ragazzino incaricato di tenerci d'occhio, che ci impedisce di portare le bici in camera e insiste affinchè le lasciamo in un parcheggio custodito a pochi minuti a piedi da lì. E sia. In ogni caso resto infastidita dalla puzza sotto al naso che aleggia in questo posto, e, siccome non sono troppo stanca, infastidisco in ogni modo la sgarbata receptionist, tentando di riportarla alla realtà delle cose: non lavora al President Wilson di Ginevra! "Scusi, non va l'acqua calda" dico scendendo mezza gnuda come se uscissi dalla doccia, nell'imbarazzo degli astanti. "Scusi, ma internet non funziona, mi può ridare per trecentesima volta la password?". E via così, una volpe volutamente molesta.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_FAyRqqCSr8fYAt_VdF6PWsiBU6epZV6Yf2rLKV7QTKlVnFpBFNnNaupEhv0bZF1TBQIjy6syZcigSD3ReEKaOH9tN0X7XDwMlMrP-j6_APVPFQwb64vwtKKYF7PK6K2pVH21vURMG3qCD-QVCk3JuhTo1ezEBqtLMTlbGOdn7OoI6dun3np5Ep4qU5I/s979/20230803_144437.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_FAyRqqCSr8fYAt_VdF6PWsiBU6epZV6Yf2rLKV7QTKlVnFpBFNnNaupEhv0bZF1TBQIjy6syZcigSD3ReEKaOH9tN0X7XDwMlMrP-j6_APVPFQwb64vwtKKYF7PK6K2pVH21vURMG3qCD-QVCk3JuhTo1ezEBqtLMTlbGOdn7OoI6dun3np5Ep4qU5I/s320/20230803_144437.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoB70CoSz1eiZKThx4MlPStmhd1KDOm5vwWU6FKiUkCoCzdvCbXkyMOYz5PIMrf-_9DaBo0JOpn3h11f61zwF3Dnb2Qh_DvTMwIiAijXhGUllVyxhObdAOJUuJwM3-XyxsfJ5OClqWbcD3aUHm26bXUR067pbkTNTVjJ7rqqf13gq4LZjg0NXW91zLjhI/s1209/20230803_145828.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoB70CoSz1eiZKThx4MlPStmhd1KDOm5vwWU6FKiUkCoCzdvCbXkyMOYz5PIMrf-_9DaBo0JOpn3h11f61zwF3Dnb2Qh_DvTMwIiAijXhGUllVyxhObdAOJUuJwM3-XyxsfJ5OClqWbcD3aUHm26bXUR067pbkTNTVjJ7rqqf13gq4LZjg0NXW91zLjhI/s320/20230803_145828.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Non restiamo a lungo in camera, perchè è presto, non siamo esageratamente stanchi e Puebla ha tanto da offrire. Fondata nel 1531 da un gruppo di coloni spagnoli che la battezzarono Ciudad de Los Angeles per contendere il primato religioso al vicino centro preispanico di Cholula, la città crebbe rapidamente e diventò un centro importante del cattolicesimo nella regione. Fin da tempi antichissimi qui era diffuso l'artigianato della ceramica, prodotta con argilla locale; quando gli spagnoli introdussero tecniche e materiali nuovi, questa attività divenne arte e industria. Alla fine del XVIII secolo si producevano anche vetro e tessuti, con grandi benefici per l'economia. Puebla restò la seconda città più popolosa del Messico fino alla fine del XIX secolo (oggi conta 1.5 milioni di abitanti, 3 se si considera l'area metropolitana circostante). Nel 1862 il generale Ignacio de Zaragoza fece fortificare il Cerro de Guadalupe per far fronte agli attacchi francesi e il maggio di quell'anno, con i suoi 2000 uomini, respinse l'assalto di 6000 soldati franzosi (molti già provati dalla dissenteria, a onor -e odor- del vero). Questa vittoria, eccezionale successo messicano, viene celebrata ancora oggi soprattutto negli USA, dove è sponsorizzata dalle grandi aziende e serve a vendere fiumi di alcolici. Va detto che nel 1863, appena un anno dopo il Cinco de mayo, i francesi conquistarono Puebla e la occuparono per 4 anni.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Scesi in strada, mi colpisce anzitutto la quantità di negozi di abbigliamento, soprattutto elegante e da cerimonia. Molti sono dedicati alle quinceanere ed espongono vestiti degni di una sposa, corone e parafernalia kitsch che meriterebbero uno studio sociologico a parte.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfm-pS3P1KTmJ6iWsUIwQgXBSXuesHrTXeqFwZ6wumzQmTIU8vrEGqqJhq0sz5mMS9CEXTMDfhdMMJWxQLzf_grp-gcxTwLctxDrSgu_vleT3Mh_2GKtThbhGYHh91IkypsFsVRdyDD83WjHXOGZjWEw5dIe9HFjqjC-BICkZbJvueHJFgZYD_FJaiu4/s1209/20230803_161921.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfm-pS3P1KTmJ6iWsUIwQgXBSXuesHrTXeqFwZ6wumzQmTIU8vrEGqqJhq0sz5mMS9CEXTMDfhdMMJWxQLzf_grp-gcxTwLctxDrSgu_vleT3Mh_2GKtThbhGYHh91IkypsFsVRdyDD83WjHXOGZjWEw5dIe9HFjqjC-BICkZbJvueHJFgZYD_FJaiu4/s320/20230803_161921.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilm_EYc09TcVdLMJlFXQORwn7pPEA2l1BBpyQmbUwKFzmqg_ay03fs4B4v158f0SAjPvmpr6LJI3ekMCf0rt6WFSSg0gjaaJzw2y8IN9Tn268hLZun29bV1Q880YN8f0K7oIbsVnfNpJvYHGZdHw4X8NNm0HDYOwdpUVEg6W2-eKjoSum_44xK8Mlno64/s1209/20230803_161928.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilm_EYc09TcVdLMJlFXQORwn7pPEA2l1BBpyQmbUwKFzmqg_ay03fs4B4v158f0SAjPvmpr6LJI3ekMCf0rt6WFSSg0gjaaJzw2y8IN9Tn268hLZun29bV1Q880YN8f0K7oIbsVnfNpJvYHGZdHw4X8NNm0HDYOwdpUVEg6W2-eKjoSum_44xK8Mlno64/s320/20230803_161928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Rubano poi lo sguardo i bellissimi edifici storici che si susseguono per tutte le vie del centro e danno alla città un aspetto elegante e raffinato (direi "quasi europeo", che è la realtà storica, ma forse suona un po' razzista).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjiQPkOdQ0MpoAMEexLHm9Mrq47HSgqC14seW4cznnbIhD688kWPosoZKZyvkCxhvZOR3ejWcPtZe7ZIcevek5OKrc1bRXuj9CYKz9JydtQ0wgShX2S9SAvkSm-r8TwrSxzMHhM8K0SphGJUs6GgjWYsUQUC5txqmPT8boAS_lJ9kIfuMPq7AacBe3gc/s1209/20230803_162031.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtjiQPkOdQ0MpoAMEexLHm9Mrq47HSgqC14seW4cznnbIhD688kWPosoZKZyvkCxhvZOR3ejWcPtZe7ZIcevek5OKrc1bRXuj9CYKz9JydtQ0wgShX2S9SAvkSm-r8TwrSxzMHhM8K0SphGJUs6GgjWYsUQUC5txqmPT8boAS_lJ9kIfuMPq7AacBe3gc/s320/20230803_162031.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVybioFxcw992VuUAveWwGfIXwaHTRIvH10XpP7hW_jaepT7qvADeXs32sxYrPQzFoyv1c0bGi5rOw2diYoZDUxi32pxPmniUZ48OIr0iBjB5NOkXHVLPJy2orKm1MFcpJKDWn9LcgKYqtUR9LdKROeOJUzKRohGE_wBmD_8aYc8wUiVjwyrJUifMB41g/s979/20230803_162200.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVybioFxcw992VuUAveWwGfIXwaHTRIvH10XpP7hW_jaepT7qvADeXs32sxYrPQzFoyv1c0bGi5rOw2diYoZDUxi32pxPmniUZ48OIr0iBjB5NOkXHVLPJy2orKm1MFcpJKDWn9LcgKYqtUR9LdKROeOJUzKRohGE_wBmD_8aYc8wUiVjwyrJUifMB41g/s320/20230803_162200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In molti di questi palazzi si apre un labirinto di viuzze e passaggi interni che ospitano mercati artigianali e non di livello. Bighelloniamo tra le bancarelle, attratti soprattutto dai profumi di fritto, dolci, popcorn e qualsiasi bendiddio che ha su di noi, che abbiam pedalato ma non pranzato un effetto magnetico.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmSuZKN__EqBcXBxPZhLMw-Ugdi8KPBm__FspnFwaOWct9VWPAXLphXCcRJNf5PA4aB5lkFi9Eyo0kEKjslj9r9Y318QvQ7S2Q0_cpqJ-44QMWjeutSY1F4nDm_Lps8ntYQWk7B7sIyZxzCgHFYD_rQCZSjBZ9z0oISC9NyUn2-Uxde9rIhCMBMzx2OE/s1209/20230803_162328.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmSuZKN__EqBcXBxPZhLMw-Ugdi8KPBm__FspnFwaOWct9VWPAXLphXCcRJNf5PA4aB5lkFi9Eyo0kEKjslj9r9Y318QvQ7S2Q0_cpqJ-44QMWjeutSY1F4nDm_Lps8ntYQWk7B7sIyZxzCgHFYD_rQCZSjBZ9z0oISC9NyUn2-Uxde9rIhCMBMzx2OE/s320/20230803_162328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJp-1o4SeyCTc-zYWN9uCxQa5qy7jvSyjOFimm4zJllD5U1Oh70bAG2IxijaCEEbj-iQ6y2InYp62dyMqk6xDx57tJ-9SXOnbswwicLAEtuPbtdJN8-kokFcwYFT0n0slBwF2c5j4C6Zr_0rGsJIhT4nuvlbD2IieJ2j2Svg85tdhaVqcg0GZLBIJiE_E/s1209/20230803_162722.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJp-1o4SeyCTc-zYWN9uCxQa5qy7jvSyjOFimm4zJllD5U1Oh70bAG2IxijaCEEbj-iQ6y2InYp62dyMqk6xDx57tJ-9SXOnbswwicLAEtuPbtdJN8-kokFcwYFT0n0slBwF2c5j4C6Zr_0rGsJIhT4nuvlbD2IieJ2j2Svg85tdhaVqcg0GZLBIJiE_E/s320/20230803_162722.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9R_d_eMdnk0jTw9xQUKTTrhgDmiCt9qa0kFC9aUrVi613ovgx4w50FlXn3Pt03L-SSkmP3vyw7XUKGu7NSCp-wtRfoYOEbbGXhmJ35TEDCiFYeRjO1qPPzxCKTqcPJFghFNFS-2AOJzzqaDuW5o41MsXPJa8UztAAjsaZhj965s7i9IQBeyBHyjAurg/s1209/20230803_163345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq9R_d_eMdnk0jTw9xQUKTTrhgDmiCt9qa0kFC9aUrVi613ovgx4w50FlXn3Pt03L-SSkmP3vyw7XUKGu7NSCp-wtRfoYOEbbGXhmJ35TEDCiFYeRjO1qPPzxCKTqcPJFghFNFS-2AOJzzqaDuW5o41MsXPJa8UztAAjsaZhj965s7i9IQBeyBHyjAurg/s320/20230803_163345.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGA8fnFEonyJ-tkJkot_azna5PKFGf6fOaTKE4Tla0effKhcWTELT0tZEXfG3nEFZRNNOvq0T3tPP7GW6tTJw6kxAbQI1YXXIK4qw0_6td8kYV1g0itjMxDLrxkyboTK9CH0U_M379PXX8XJuT-8sLGiSmC_NHV0ukSN550iJxalg0_O1dRtj1iYfXhA/s1210/20230803_163443.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGA8fnFEonyJ-tkJkot_azna5PKFGf6fOaTKE4Tla0effKhcWTELT0tZEXfG3nEFZRNNOvq0T3tPP7GW6tTJw6kxAbQI1YXXIK4qw0_6td8kYV1g0itjMxDLrxkyboTK9CH0U_M379PXX8XJuT-8sLGiSmC_NHV0ukSN550iJxalg0_O1dRtj1iYfXhA/s320/20230803_163443.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">e infatti una crepe alla Nutella giunge desiderata</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Più ci si avvicina allo zocalo, più le strade, spesso pedonali, si fanno affollate di passanti, ambulantes, strilloni, venditori di palloncini e persino statue di poblani illustri, letterati, scienziati, giornalisti, conduttori tv...</div><div style="text-align: left;"> <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsXNtB9vHr0aXcZ031u6xub3ze2dR6CfAFDTFtKAcDoADgBVOOv7cQfzlWmw2-6_4W9n1SmDyfOGMLD6c-YMsx0vnNybvr18I9GdvDK59fPzfBu7hE-AapKwxhlAX7uISMRwOfQc1Tyfce2ZzNZkLwDmWI70yzeU8cwrF8O6E_cmgsbWjfTRU6buiQQk/s979/20230803_164009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsXNtB9vHr0aXcZ031u6xub3ze2dR6CfAFDTFtKAcDoADgBVOOv7cQfzlWmw2-6_4W9n1SmDyfOGMLD6c-YMsx0vnNybvr18I9GdvDK59fPzfBu7hE-AapKwxhlAX7uISMRwOfQc1Tyfce2ZzNZkLwDmWI70yzeU8cwrF8O6E_cmgsbWjfTRU6buiQQk/s320/20230803_164009.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsSSF0AcdI-nEavZtH-vfjaMPi4fllc_cPB-zezpN3yzmgjwDDEK-Nt1b6R7yI4aK45VoffgQ6XNNLYLp2vgAkouQzbBgg-5KDOc9dJa3wrco19CTLyF7OgkJz_3GMPexChodXiFaCdWQlgbS7QkrwmyErXAX5ktkhNmg0aVdMHiP_4UjEIGj-mfewL-Q/s1209/20230803_164049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsSSF0AcdI-nEavZtH-vfjaMPi4fllc_cPB-zezpN3yzmgjwDDEK-Nt1b6R7yI4aK45VoffgQ6XNNLYLp2vgAkouQzbBgg-5KDOc9dJa3wrco19CTLyF7OgkJz_3GMPexChodXiFaCdWQlgbS7QkrwmyErXAX5ktkhNmg0aVdMHiP_4UjEIGj-mfewL-Q/s320/20230803_164049.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh031QMP4SuZoNC4hjMKy4RqENyop0ZjHVfXBbzl2knlirOtGPUfqOeEixH83mlwrUKo9UmTJD2YwOMdITpqqXhkujPynwL2tJUXSyEbXq1BVYiFxHEERcXiWvqP14-lNzzA6J9YfPRDFsexV1PYjYGQG4d7n6MIzm-aGHRLc462TJ-GWcTsLni0u7MJk0/s1209/20230803_164055.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh031QMP4SuZoNC4hjMKy4RqENyop0ZjHVfXBbzl2knlirOtGPUfqOeEixH83mlwrUKo9UmTJD2YwOMdITpqqXhkujPynwL2tJUXSyEbXq1BVYiFxHEERcXiWvqP14-lNzzA6J9YfPRDFsexV1PYjYGQG4d7n6MIzm-aGHRLc462TJ-GWcTsLni0u7MJk0/s320/20230803_164055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kMjzBF6ZrTT_tqfVV75tqpCkFWRZZz0hVgVRaI46Xtn05NQxmu1JnPmRCNuX5Z_OrMth3CC53fCUcDdez4LYHBTstyISFdEbNV7CxJHy3nfZoD2q2LiPS-Thab858G-sm0GgnwMvTRbLC194KpgJGdlqIM2OGYLpRRrRYFOX1ksKKiLwhZ_wY6zi_gU/s1209/20230803_164134.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kMjzBF6ZrTT_tqfVV75tqpCkFWRZZz0hVgVRaI46Xtn05NQxmu1JnPmRCNuX5Z_OrMth3CC53fCUcDdez4LYHBTstyISFdEbNV7CxJHy3nfZoD2q2LiPS-Thab858G-sm0GgnwMvTRbLC194KpgJGdlqIM2OGYLpRRrRYFOX1ksKKiLwhZ_wY6zi_gU/s320/20230803_164134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">La nostra prima meta è il Templo de Santo Domingo, chiesa domenicana in cui si trova la barocchissima Capilla del Rosario; eretta tra 1650 e 1690, è un'esplosione di stucchi dorati, statue in pietra, con angeli e cherubini che sembrano sbucare da ogni foglia. L'ingresso è anche sì gratuito, come tutte le chiese qui a Puebla.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7SPMP2YGZnsnnjG6G_uFaw6Kr0ORpnZKy-EFJ84xlpwiKhsl_k7NwKEXh1gjgtnNNlLn7fE1rgMjERxHLN93lDMN6imz0mlt-LoVUshG5WHu4L3xWeqZ3PA1tXkK4g4wBngHKVykBLO4OJsIi2UcoBenYOCNQjGjdXz_5xMkhtRBzE42OjZtteq4Sr0s/s1209/20230803_164227.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7SPMP2YGZnsnnjG6G_uFaw6Kr0ORpnZKy-EFJ84xlpwiKhsl_k7NwKEXh1gjgtnNNlLn7fE1rgMjERxHLN93lDMN6imz0mlt-LoVUshG5WHu4L3xWeqZ3PA1tXkK4g4wBngHKVykBLO4OJsIi2UcoBenYOCNQjGjdXz_5xMkhtRBzE42OjZtteq4Sr0s/s320/20230803_164227.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI41U255h2dkvgmRY-zFbX71CcFcjVEXRLVtYewsu4ahFj4OsZu4gXtAxnDDpg6Mtt1okggzitvvST0TX3tfjiHBPUIzhnf45xHtBCASNGzZgSMFkEyCzrQYNWVuwAtdSo0brHqloo0IkhxU8X9Piwaf1uMTZVGjTOV8KPPipL97QeP9I-oWo2aSuvkiI/s1209/20230803_164340.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI41U255h2dkvgmRY-zFbX71CcFcjVEXRLVtYewsu4ahFj4OsZu4gXtAxnDDpg6Mtt1okggzitvvST0TX3tfjiHBPUIzhnf45xHtBCASNGzZgSMFkEyCzrQYNWVuwAtdSo0brHqloo0IkhxU8X9Piwaf1uMTZVGjTOV8KPPipL97QeP9I-oWo2aSuvkiI/s320/20230803_164340.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgkB0uVOPVmhgECZMraBVpZSzvMpMqo8JywBKt2zE8AeFLA_17GSo8iavctbh5PlmtPN865pkfAH8CzEjh3izxVZurQyc4oWWdO9bteHDBadlJ29wYwzHcwHs8S3xWl0TUqMZq8WpXMutiv2-P9BkP1697ScnirYWOBlwy-U1j1iZTSJAcZYSxFASEi6o/s1209/20230803_164407.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgkB0uVOPVmhgECZMraBVpZSzvMpMqo8JywBKt2zE8AeFLA_17GSo8iavctbh5PlmtPN865pkfAH8CzEjh3izxVZurQyc4oWWdO9bteHDBadlJ29wYwzHcwHs8S3xWl0TUqMZq8WpXMutiv2-P9BkP1697ScnirYWOBlwy-U1j1iZTSJAcZYSxFASEi6o/s320/20230803_164407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJjDZLaMWHYQZS7mRNx3AGAQlPFdEuRD2MDXBbvwYpyKNV-3Sjolc6YuYlbNNlhm-fjSzojmca5uUwgw_6kp5SSUbSreJMQumw6HkxBAVcaf-Tp9I7VcCphIpg3pyeFcuTo6cAPF13Y8o2buN6gdmoWVRjR0nPfxcq-gbIRYmmMHLupqFgXGnzL8uXwU/s1209/20230803_164550.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJjDZLaMWHYQZS7mRNx3AGAQlPFdEuRD2MDXBbvwYpyKNV-3Sjolc6YuYlbNNlhm-fjSzojmca5uUwgw_6kp5SSUbSreJMQumw6HkxBAVcaf-Tp9I7VcCphIpg3pyeFcuTo6cAPF13Y8o2buN6gdmoWVRjR0nPfxcq-gbIRYmmMHLupqFgXGnzL8uXwU/s320/20230803_164550.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKOqoHXx7AAz22e73LZv5CFH9pjCpsWZHMiUkwlnwUzlB1_mrp4L7Gu6oxGqvnq75Q-DMMLcG82JIciloIfD86C1rfRe0XwKMcKU3LszFqSAxLBsypPghTdByTJx5WjvRU8E1cYUGPXF5gPP3HD1v9rkoj5MhkTfhIZQeuXfc9BkOMLEnwMemm5KP6AmY/s1209/20230803_164823.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKOqoHXx7AAz22e73LZv5CFH9pjCpsWZHMiUkwlnwUzlB1_mrp4L7Gu6oxGqvnq75Q-DMMLcG82JIciloIfD86C1rfRe0XwKMcKU3LszFqSAxLBsypPghTdByTJx5WjvRU8E1cYUGPXF5gPP3HD1v9rkoj5MhkTfhIZQeuXfc9BkOMLEnwMemm5KP6AmY/s320/20230803_164823.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la Capilla del Rosario</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkp3uns_TVDo8-jE_gBQLVQHZSTwzvXhrd7CC7JyfSa8BHZeUs4Zd7BC-j8mdux_eAciIogz4iZASY78noTR8aMxMOcnMjXtJIe3H2bB61e6EaZssc3IWmUemxUpy9r-q7Gf4bcZNVXwTcG0gwmnC0Ly2d4sBu5UhWnQuwJWpehF_cnyRTYA6-1VacePM/s979/20230803_164928.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkp3uns_TVDo8-jE_gBQLVQHZSTwzvXhrd7CC7JyfSa8BHZeUs4Zd7BC-j8mdux_eAciIogz4iZASY78noTR8aMxMOcnMjXtJIe3H2bB61e6EaZssc3IWmUemxUpy9r-q7Gf4bcZNVXwTcG0gwmnC0Ly2d4sBu5UhWnQuwJWpehF_cnyRTYA6-1VacePM/s320/20230803_164928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0YaKkP2_YbfPagnSoCN52lO60XVis8pWhrttAxDJExUe_vlja22jcJu0R_D6DX5GoJ_y54y76JnR1NA-o3YwSRu_meeUlwhXZomuGP5z6O95icmwxSMJTJhvv27gsFU8qI75DeGIUETQE2lez3UVzRpOqdSY3ajZQCjZa5FV3VYIMzmOhLM_ctP8Hco/s979/20230803_164938.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0YaKkP2_YbfPagnSoCN52lO60XVis8pWhrttAxDJExUe_vlja22jcJu0R_D6DX5GoJ_y54y76JnR1NA-o3YwSRu_meeUlwhXZomuGP5z6O95icmwxSMJTJhvv27gsFU8qI75DeGIUETQE2lez3UVzRpOqdSY3ajZQCjZa5FV3VYIMzmOhLM_ctP8Hco/s320/20230803_164938.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1RhsaWvgM9O8J4A8_2j2QyfEp6xdjMRz-BNwgp3TgG_H4yZ9gt6JF8XpeqxfvtuXMaQa1ye_YZVc9_3eYfx7QtXzCQ0Y-5-_JlehgYc4TQIHk7CVCFV88nfiEgLcfLY4NRf1baw41g3evxsZQZJ8QJe63Drl7xjcIkLvEXv30gsfZ6Va9UQK8gxaWEw/s1209/20230803_165034.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1RhsaWvgM9O8J4A8_2j2QyfEp6xdjMRz-BNwgp3TgG_H4yZ9gt6JF8XpeqxfvtuXMaQa1ye_YZVc9_3eYfx7QtXzCQ0Y-5-_JlehgYc4TQIHk7CVCFV88nfiEgLcfLY4NRf1baw41g3evxsZQZJ8QJe63Drl7xjcIkLvEXv30gsfZ6Va9UQK8gxaWEw/s320/20230803_165034.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2xgW7uTNxrM_no0K_mMYMA1W0j_efCIroUqzX6c092Q3K-ek2PLfUUPWkWgkdrfqafTgAGB7kVDafYTUXim1pihafeOeBMLJjsMqWEd2DH1lR96v0ZBmHE-IAAkRgq4VnWGKiXP3zi2GSPf6LMTq95sIuj5CVxT3S4t2rc4dCor_ERTjbFYs4kIk374/s1209/20230803_165039.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2xgW7uTNxrM_no0K_mMYMA1W0j_efCIroUqzX6c092Q3K-ek2PLfUUPWkWgkdrfqafTgAGB7kVDafYTUXim1pihafeOeBMLJjsMqWEd2DH1lR96v0ZBmHE-IAAkRgq4VnWGKiXP3zi2GSPf6LMTq95sIuj5CVxT3S4t2rc4dCor_ERTjbFYs4kIk374/s320/20230803_165039.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhG8yIdwnyU-DzLkJI-_Y5uCpM4OPn4Je57RxriQ68joy_PSLpy6VBX9l8A4ZEo0_KaOGP5k6adKveCN6hjHl48PS8YWG2C6pdsMfIkLilppv0yAjDjOdYHoBF2xEGbP9m8Gvw8yXneVclSX9vjpmqnXEUgJpy7bKJzjtkMCKkz-QywPzO9h1dMbuwqn8/s1209/20230803_165152.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhG8yIdwnyU-DzLkJI-_Y5uCpM4OPn4Je57RxriQ68joy_PSLpy6VBX9l8A4ZEo0_KaOGP5k6adKveCN6hjHl48PS8YWG2C6pdsMfIkLilppv0yAjDjOdYHoBF2xEGbP9m8Gvw8yXneVclSX9vjpmqnXEUgJpy7bKJzjtkMCKkz-QywPzO9h1dMbuwqn8/s320/20230803_165152.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXbX52sq7V3oxiaRbLZOg0SveEjE5wb2CfvHzke6OTfvC9AtJRaYaVjQ9mpTsVrxKLEjKvKucBDL5qc3pio5KFUMcX7dpIRtHwShDH0b7OpnecPIwNo9bX7oeNWZxNMng7P0BuetE9zELeFbKaYulMo9ymslTY6FoBOp2EgZoneI7uaXNoYxC4eVNByk/s1209/20230803_165445.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVXbX52sq7V3oxiaRbLZOg0SveEjE5wb2CfvHzke6OTfvC9AtJRaYaVjQ9mpTsVrxKLEjKvKucBDL5qc3pio5KFUMcX7dpIRtHwShDH0b7OpnecPIwNo9bX7oeNWZxNMng7P0BuetE9zELeFbKaYulMo9ymslTY6FoBOp2EgZoneI7uaXNoYxC4eVNByk/s320/20230803_165445.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Proseguiamo lasciandoci assorbire dal flusso di suoni, profumi e colori delle vie centrali, in una rilassante atmosfera vacanziera. Qui di gringos ce ne sono ben pochi, ma di turisti messicani è pieno.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKd1bjSO-Yusj559Fk927WO5SPTq-PKoTk_XoK3TGvp7mZ6GFzNBjaoZzrgAXiro_5OwO-3S_SQ6LQtRbA-wnJLRGpjjK8ZPEZW8yWVMPcX5a7LbzBVkJwj0vLevumO-d2PL1orzB6x7Kl-iXf3ZOMN7XpNhZBooej2lIJCh2DtKk5xsaz1811MPUJ_c/s1209/20230803_165552.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKd1bjSO-Yusj559Fk927WO5SPTq-PKoTk_XoK3TGvp7mZ6GFzNBjaoZzrgAXiro_5OwO-3S_SQ6LQtRbA-wnJLRGpjjK8ZPEZW8yWVMPcX5a7LbzBVkJwj0vLevumO-d2PL1orzB6x7Kl-iXf3ZOMN7XpNhZBooej2lIJCh2DtKk5xsaz1811MPUJ_c/s320/20230803_165552.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggS5xDj1cfWaauD3uFZydHDWCiHgNrPoWJ7W49I-cU9QM1vVPzkOX5HLWW2X2Mm_l68zNR3Z46VYeDQAsFpage8ZvKwqp4ZQ5AipTOnTGtItV8mphViEIm3DM_CsQfja8IwASN2RkLgmhGW792vzA1PqNuIZf3cE8g0QBruedkkeboj_kjLRl1IidGU9M/s1209/20230803_165608.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggS5xDj1cfWaauD3uFZydHDWCiHgNrPoWJ7W49I-cU9QM1vVPzkOX5HLWW2X2Mm_l68zNR3Z46VYeDQAsFpage8ZvKwqp4ZQ5AipTOnTGtItV8mphViEIm3DM_CsQfja8IwASN2RkLgmhGW792vzA1PqNuIZf3cE8g0QBruedkkeboj_kjLRl1IidGU9M/s320/20230803_165608.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMxAJil4KO73JgiBFnKP0DHw_ozcQFRMjN08fj3IuSrhr4qZ2maVuSKjx5TgKMqxhJEN9UPSVPKNds1sdfGU0E11YL690yyxtNbNw8lcmtcD6xqkKr1MIn5YjRmSI-yCcEidsVhopTCWiSCZiVaEOlEreGFlkiZXzM4a_73__LOOhHJRf1CaOjSkXD6c/s1209/20230803_165759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMxAJil4KO73JgiBFnKP0DHw_ozcQFRMjN08fj3IuSrhr4qZ2maVuSKjx5TgKMqxhJEN9UPSVPKNds1sdfGU0E11YL690yyxtNbNw8lcmtcD6xqkKr1MIn5YjRmSI-yCcEidsVhopTCWiSCZiVaEOlEreGFlkiZXzM4a_73__LOOhHJRf1CaOjSkXD6c/s320/20230803_165759.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLv87sxEpQHeHomxvtgkgo2cBZrQy9v-d8xL7Uy5pjfaSHQLF8J1w8LqX_KodShVPOKLWmV_ylKanakNnhKj-moKY8RWZK6jFdpeNl2VraVc9OfB47X5-wyvhG6aJW112ovWUUudnfcTO4zs3KHQ-BemDy1imkAaPeJORX4t4DEK8nx6565ckZkJznr0U/s1209/20230803_165845.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLv87sxEpQHeHomxvtgkgo2cBZrQy9v-d8xL7Uy5pjfaSHQLF8J1w8LqX_KodShVPOKLWmV_ylKanakNnhKj-moKY8RWZK6jFdpeNl2VraVc9OfB47X5-wyvhG6aJW112ovWUUudnfcTO4zs3KHQ-BemDy1imkAaPeJORX4t4DEK8nx6565ckZkJznr0U/s320/20230803_165845.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Raggiungiamo in breve lo zocalo, con i suoi portici cinquecenteschi che lo delimitano, accogliendo ristoranti e locali più o meno raffinati, e alcune catene di cui ho trovato ben poche tracce finora (McDonald's, Subway, KFC)... La gloriosa tradizione culinaria messicana resiste!</div><div style="text-align: left;">Fino al 1854, quando ha assunto l'attuale aspetto di isola verde, la piazza centrale era sede di mercato, corride, rappresentazioni teatrali e impiccagioni pubbliche. Insomma, qui non ci si annoia(va) mai.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPB5Ee9qJmMtKGlNL6Mkfh-XPRz-1YqY_i5zHp-UnJaPi3rC_KiN2HQN_s0LcqXgna6qNu5sw-QFEFXHLJn6afhVpTZEcDBZXgaHocx8Q8cI0LKbLr_gHZsrA1bA_ZhG-91VwbPkD4D_JZY8LNrwEdxWacPnBEaoIBUxAqgwCYQofq_41CpxVim9kR0wY/s1209/20230803_170202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPB5Ee9qJmMtKGlNL6Mkfh-XPRz-1YqY_i5zHp-UnJaPi3rC_KiN2HQN_s0LcqXgna6qNu5sw-QFEFXHLJn6afhVpTZEcDBZXgaHocx8Q8cI0LKbLr_gHZsrA1bA_ZhG-91VwbPkD4D_JZY8LNrwEdxWacPnBEaoIBUxAqgwCYQofq_41CpxVim9kR0wY/s320/20230803_170202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYJG9w32CAA2exLapmDRHYcj8lR4T6QKkJAiYH7zsiUWPBuCP_ch0rpKKtkUzDrkHPJLqOwdJgJLc9-R2R_Mn-x30_DKdVjE61IRuQray_g9t2BM015vWXhVsUPY66oPxV9TYad6HYuY6vzNJIs8njA8yxzqz-vf31LPI2H_ltCkWtTMRrcBagoghyWeQ/s1209/20230803_170343.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYJG9w32CAA2exLapmDRHYcj8lR4T6QKkJAiYH7zsiUWPBuCP_ch0rpKKtkUzDrkHPJLqOwdJgJLc9-R2R_Mn-x30_DKdVjE61IRuQray_g9t2BM015vWXhVsUPY66oPxV9TYad6HYuY6vzNJIs8njA8yxzqz-vf31LPI2H_ltCkWtTMRrcBagoghyWeQ/s320/20230803_170343.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8P2hrHPDNq9ZkTf6z5Nv7MF1kssRuEWdYomEIEs2damc7aQS2CRQhsgrLyuYSnOU0AUTovwmsbSec_ikFLR77iz6_r-C91gH8dpLADf_Zy-bZLInPPGeKwLXg_zBhdNsUStLynaZFCIW0tIksjRMd0ENp5TXgf_fAly2aBO2WUTXR3qaCAA8jLrxTqA/s979/20230803_170456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8P2hrHPDNq9ZkTf6z5Nv7MF1kssRuEWdYomEIEs2damc7aQS2CRQhsgrLyuYSnOU0AUTovwmsbSec_ikFLR77iz6_r-C91gH8dpLADf_Zy-bZLInPPGeKwLXg_zBhdNsUStLynaZFCIW0tIksjRMd0ENp5TXgf_fAly2aBO2WUTXR3qaCAA8jLrxTqA/s320/20230803_170456.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivieIeDeD8MlDUt-xX1oUscwIgtoWaoNbuqCDUU5hPbLeggdg5C6D0pmQb6OQPqGiuSYP4rF3Hfft2c82BiNRPa5SNEdOLGowwmum7yixywSjeU3gyBvzjwgKR90b-aXJiGdZqidsnHQQO2dkeCoKTnRoLS5Rii0mEYi295pahJV8Avxnkzju5NfOQ4PY/s1209/20230803_170850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivieIeDeD8MlDUt-xX1oUscwIgtoWaoNbuqCDUU5hPbLeggdg5C6D0pmQb6OQPqGiuSYP4rF3Hfft2c82BiNRPa5SNEdOLGowwmum7yixywSjeU3gyBvzjwgKR90b-aXJiGdZqidsnHQQO2dkeCoKTnRoLS5Rii0mEYi295pahJV8Avxnkzju5NfOQ4PY/s320/20230803_170850.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhArzUbHuG0Vdoykty5p2N6rLoU8sH3dXj-avcL09BaqSUBczOIVN2IEkan69Qwt0ePEf71ldlnnGFWUM4BJouGWvzahZ3JjMgpFKvNhlE5gET6I8LGFWrkFHKL_EjXi6fZptnJTfmn2GxDDj17hrATshPTlBP7VEHbteAA9L3DsAJtGPwPNOUXh_mOY/s1209/20230803_171111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhArzUbHuG0Vdoykty5p2N6rLoU8sH3dXj-avcL09BaqSUBczOIVN2IEkan69Qwt0ePEf71ldlnnGFWUM4BJouGWvzahZ3JjMgpFKvNhlE5gET6I8LGFWrkFHKL_EjXi6fZptnJTfmn2GxDDj17hrATshPTlBP7VEHbteAA9L3DsAJtGPwPNOUXh_mOY/s320/20230803_171111.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Su tutto domina la maestosa, scura, altissima cattedrale, che si trova anche raffigurata sulle banconote da 500 pesos. L'edificio occupa un intero isolato e presenta elementi che fondono lo stile architettonico herreresco, più austero, rinascimentale, e il protobarocco. La costruzione iniziò nel 1550 ma fu potata avanti soprattutto durante il vescovado di Juan de Palafox, intorno al 1640. Le due torri campanarie (69m) sono le più alte del Messico. L'interno è impreziosito da affreschi ed elaborate cappelle laterali, un vero e proprio museo d'arte locale. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjev-3apgZnLHBtVnUV1DZ7SVhqjeQxj4WiklOte5XybFmoHtCHgXpKySwdKiNKu9f0OglHVHxn_YmwJrwyHe5MfpdSDa7VAHBjiXLgQ-Y6DMP9MYbngBnGf3CfVoyugcPgk2Kn5VH65AIuNjyNP3hpgAglJdZLTF7sBQ0eVDEGEYuX7hrkUSVokHfm9kE/s1209/20230803_171443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjev-3apgZnLHBtVnUV1DZ7SVhqjeQxj4WiklOte5XybFmoHtCHgXpKySwdKiNKu9f0OglHVHxn_YmwJrwyHe5MfpdSDa7VAHBjiXLgQ-Y6DMP9MYbngBnGf3CfVoyugcPgk2Kn5VH65AIuNjyNP3hpgAglJdZLTF7sBQ0eVDEGEYuX7hrkUSVokHfm9kE/s320/20230803_171443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDGBZpd5thhCQuuyvkpLxgGHRFZIe6MFz8KVNPlNzl8fyY8xNCECKux9AkiQab5etw4vM6jacsSIdnc6kxeQ2GdHNgPUFjAFRhLkeH85NIpRk6Beqt_GGi6kLXzwRRmR3nSW7a-4LuzZRfsmaDeuGrr6a7At4JJI8Vtyk4Ik0gocjlaVHCYfNl07l-s0/s320/20230803_172406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJtr9xkb0WPA7svm5n5Y7IJeYU2ZCGMW7_Orh6BUcW67vZVk_85h3GSWBKVgY9-HyCmG5KcILVg0uzJNXedQaCpzmrvEvcma63B_8WXTTIQnsp-z0fUjPpdPewwXcJKGYJb7OUHKHiiqryrACBOCJ_j9Ydej4-VE4u5Ku0WukxnMYPaIyEy5nEWQT4uo/s1209/20230803_172449.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJtr9xkb0WPA7svm5n5Y7IJeYU2ZCGMW7_Orh6BUcW67vZVk_85h3GSWBKVgY9-HyCmG5KcILVg0uzJNXedQaCpzmrvEvcma63B_8WXTTIQnsp-z0fUjPpdPewwXcJKGYJb7OUHKHiiqryrACBOCJ_j9Ydej4-VE4u5Ku0WukxnMYPaIyEy5nEWQT4uo/s320/20230803_172449.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhihVUOClutxZl4T_87065Y2vof3xcGvCB_spXQj-lPx0kBJQ7R2v3FIYWbwhJQ03v-g_AHSp2fJakZX2q8dUxQxFasvNl7VeqnbMzX3SongzofjWwXzqak-XQPsTnY-RoS2iqLlO2IN3AB7ZT-3ompVLHqDp6J2JNIQZ-U7dAr_YJbi02X19vTdAiUihY/s1209/20230803_172521.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhihVUOClutxZl4T_87065Y2vof3xcGvCB_spXQj-lPx0kBJQ7R2v3FIYWbwhJQ03v-g_AHSp2fJakZX2q8dUxQxFasvNl7VeqnbMzX3SongzofjWwXzqak-XQPsTnY-RoS2iqLlO2IN3AB7ZT-3ompVLHqDp6J2JNIQZ-U7dAr_YJbi02X19vTdAiUihY/s320/20230803_172521.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il cenotafio di Juan de Palafox</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Accanto alla cattedrale si riconosce, bianco e rosso con decorazioni in ceramica, l'antico palazzo vescovile, secentesco, che ospita uffici governativi, la Casa de la Cultura e l'ente turistico statale... Ma soprattutto la prima biblioteca pubblica delle Americhe, inaugurata nel 1646. Proprio Juan de Palafox donò la sua inestimabile collezione di volumi e volle che non fosse destinata solo agli uomini di chiesa, ma a tutta la popolazione. Le migliaia di volumi antichi, cui si sono aggiunte nel tempo altre consistenti donazioni, sono conservate in scaffali costruiti su misura all'epoca.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDOLPU7x9qmnptZ-BFd5cPMcUpvyGjhUyninccdClTP8RjdETnzxaZxahimLDqAjqF5CcvXyhyTLkGFBo4KPr4sT3svRX1d_ik-hqtKFEL7gZdXspTZQzCYUDoMy3Oo9Dps_Gq2mLoUfgcUxd0kiUlGd52X_XgOUMQM4En0SnBqpml-itJaQU6ulkvSZQ/s1209/20230803_172737.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDOLPU7x9qmnptZ-BFd5cPMcUpvyGjhUyninccdClTP8RjdETnzxaZxahimLDqAjqF5CcvXyhyTLkGFBo4KPr4sT3svRX1d_ik-hqtKFEL7gZdXspTZQzCYUDoMy3Oo9Dps_Gq2mLoUfgcUxd0kiUlGd52X_XgOUMQM4En0SnBqpml-itJaQU6ulkvSZQ/s320/20230803_172737.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Siamo abbastanza cotti, a questo punto della giornata, ma proseguiamo ancora un poco perchè abbiamo una missione da compiere: recarci alla CAPU, la centrale degli autobus che dista circa 5km dal centro, e acquistare per domani i biglietti per il bus che ci porti a Città del Messico. Abbiamo infatti deciso di evitare ingresso (e uscita, tra qualche giorno) dalla capitale per una serie di ragioni. Anzitutto, recuperare qualche giorno per poter pedalare di più poi, soprattutto in Bassa California. In secondo luogo, per una questione di sicurezza stradale: non ho mai temuto il traffico ma l'idea di dover stare in sella con il costante, concreto rischio di essere tirata sotto non mi alletta, e men che meno il desiderio di vedere dall'interno un ospedale messicano. Da ultimo, la tappa lunga ci porterebbe inevitabilmente o a fermarci in periferia, o a pedalare con il buio. E ormai abbiamo afferrato il concetto: è meglio di no. Quindi domani pomeriggio, dopo aver finito di visitare Puebla, raggiungeremo in bici il terminal de autobuses, ci caricheremo su un bel mezzo di seconda classe, con le bici in stiva, e raggiungeremo il terminal TAPO, il più vicino al centro storico di Città del Messico. Da qui pedaleremo all'ostello (circa 5km).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWZ9GKszL276USuaYkdYaiwJ3X3B7RQDZ96xBQ5yXuGQklNJnaPGanrPcFHR6XyDLdQ05SmI2r6bWdSzGfmRV3Q5dKjI9v_xbfxUHa2spYgxEJ3TXZGjSJ97WDGPKCG25um3jcj6UALghy4rU_15FSHcynB9ZTmmJsBuZvgOBLn9LJ3jfUWKAMNa2bfY/s1209/20230803_172743.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWZ9GKszL276USuaYkdYaiwJ3X3B7RQDZ96xBQ5yXuGQklNJnaPGanrPcFHR6XyDLdQ05SmI2r6bWdSzGfmRV3Q5dKjI9v_xbfxUHa2spYgxEJ3TXZGjSJ97WDGPKCG25um3jcj6UALghy4rU_15FSHcynB9ZTmmJsBuZvgOBLn9LJ3jfUWKAMNa2bfY/s320/20230803_172743.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgluJ5JuJeiWZ1sGZVTNoMGvU_i9R3_gerInvHuOOVoOUWjKrnvWXIowJerRd7c4wtt75ygLeDI1-PXJtTGJTpU9D_N6DaKZPeDFG9ENoBOyFSGrUgEs7uLg_-mYICNbjv_kN4fvrXZCtJfH-U2gJUyMVfXiaE1R4QOdNaI95afSbbpod2vaZUBEShQ-j4/s979/20230803_173642.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgluJ5JuJeiWZ1sGZVTNoMGvU_i9R3_gerInvHuOOVoOUWjKrnvWXIowJerRd7c4wtt75ygLeDI1-PXJtTGJTpU9D_N6DaKZPeDFG9ENoBOyFSGrUgEs7uLg_-mYICNbjv_kN4fvrXZCtJfH-U2gJUyMVfXiaE1R4QOdNaI95afSbbpod2vaZUBEShQ-j4/s320/20230803_173642.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUtd6wGX0G_tuLPKJAu95wwC74ijc9yVrl5MKVviJ2ORi6oUQIy871rHTzWB1ooBlwAVZidrTw_eQVHwsbslpHNfe9d-idU3sGE8_rh1-t8n9XyA70gPNCRpr8yIzZJ4b27GCM6kBvfCIw6iS5j_iU4OX2eISoiDJhj3l9DiXbAe06LV2COU6s9IfCuA/s1209/20230803_173750.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghUtd6wGX0G_tuLPKJAu95wwC74ijc9yVrl5MKVviJ2ORi6oUQIy871rHTzWB1ooBlwAVZidrTw_eQVHwsbslpHNfe9d-idU3sGE8_rh1-t8n9XyA70gPNCRpr8yIzZJ4b27GCM6kBvfCIw6iS5j_iU4OX2eISoiDJhj3l9DiXbAe06LV2COU6s9IfCuA/s320/20230803_173750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Già che siamo in cammino verso il vialone dove passano i colectivos per la stazione, visitiamo la Iglesia de la Compania, chiesa gesuita dall'inconfondibile facciata churrigueresca del 1767. Sotto all'altare si troba una tomba che, a quanto si dice, custodisce le spoglie di una principessa asiatica venduta in Messico come schiava e poi liberata, nel XVII secolo. Secondo la leggenda proprio lei avrebbe introdotto nel paese il pittoresco costume della china poblana, composto da scialle, camicetta con arricciature, gonna ricamata e ornamenti in oro e argento. Nel XIX questo abbigliamento contraddistingueva una sorta di "eleganza contadina". China, però, significa anche "domestica" ed è probabile che questo stile traesse ispirazione dai vestiti contadini spagnoli.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMaxfq-s4fIOmLgrQ9anV3M-lwMEK1aG0J-kft3vkjdBJw7aNGJcJbS8Rkp798AO3HokSzGTMfUj9_6WOimMjBgTSDTS2BNcwnlyfRDIHUeJWOSOQqAV1PB1oAzNZR7B1w4p2_uENoRMHZyDKjNuyN29lIOEpCRMl4vRsL_CR1OgL-ufZf86vkTUwK2I/s979/20230803_173958.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMaxfq-s4fIOmLgrQ9anV3M-lwMEK1aG0J-kft3vkjdBJw7aNGJcJbS8Rkp798AO3HokSzGTMfUj9_6WOimMjBgTSDTS2BNcwnlyfRDIHUeJWOSOQqAV1PB1oAzNZR7B1w4p2_uENoRMHZyDKjNuyN29lIOEpCRMl4vRsL_CR1OgL-ufZf86vkTUwK2I/s320/20230803_173958.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WI_EZmk3hQ5CbBhdN6Gv6KHlaivwJzHIHDbumjC4FH1sq7p-nDoP1Ejw7-lQp9wC7rua_V_Sc9QrmVo9JYKe0U5tX10tXosZaipMtNq1CqUErB4oLbRKZRKMdcrp_YPKsLYQcUfdiCAnPXI4kkeZqqd4J_Mqspqu2hi3Q_YsF9YqbbIwujUA7mdMIx0/s1209/20230803_174007.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WI_EZmk3hQ5CbBhdN6Gv6KHlaivwJzHIHDbumjC4FH1sq7p-nDoP1Ejw7-lQp9wC7rua_V_Sc9QrmVo9JYKe0U5tX10tXosZaipMtNq1CqUErB4oLbRKZRKMdcrp_YPKsLYQcUfdiCAnPXI4kkeZqqd4J_Mqspqu2hi3Q_YsF9YqbbIwujUA7mdMIx0/s320/20230803_174007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3S_fVoFUvUxlV4GpK2oP3XUTbTvvX79J1tuZGMyfsF0wL4qyQmVj8nanpKdp4IFlF0qjp9DVWCuXYCsZa4bmktZWCfo-tc-n5d8vR-YkgL3_XAWkc-AMGY_d2EAT8RClkWptro7cKgPr-iGzX_qBZGLAzFaTPR_JVFQaV9elcnuz12JtGNp1TtWB5fM/s1209/20230803_174151.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3S_fVoFUvUxlV4GpK2oP3XUTbTvvX79J1tuZGMyfsF0wL4qyQmVj8nanpKdp4IFlF0qjp9DVWCuXYCsZa4bmktZWCfo-tc-n5d8vR-YkgL3_XAWkc-AMGY_d2EAT8RClkWptro7cKgPr-iGzX_qBZGLAzFaTPR_JVFQaV9elcnuz12JtGNp1TtWB5fM/s320/20230803_174151.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0M02gHRG-AiTGlh5_8j0uyR1TheZh5P2pk1Ft6fJ1V0VGV5J7TFgLcWXTjWPxUCWZLeLj4cpfj7gA8t4RujpzW_EDZLJ-LFeslxi-g53pxfAonv7kbC8_QAjCH9vtmap7Ys2uRfmIPlX6y5XXikPltChSvEcyErWKpWaxClAOSjb9vPAxJ7z0zQ8yBU/s1209/20230803_174210.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0M02gHRG-AiTGlh5_8j0uyR1TheZh5P2pk1Ft6fJ1V0VGV5J7TFgLcWXTjWPxUCWZLeLj4cpfj7gA8t4RujpzW_EDZLJ-LFeslxi-g53pxfAonv7kbC8_QAjCH9vtmap7Ys2uRfmIPlX6y5XXikPltChSvEcyErWKpWaxClAOSjb9vPAxJ7z0zQ8yBU/s320/20230803_174210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78M7fUmYuNaL0qiWG2NtTpDzjSbQVYkNbwY4ZUYIOakedOFFZgjS5ZHJ2rd4y2bePAGI3y4OE2ojhTOx0jWKDrMxr9PmY_ExP9z3U0aoOkONpY3CtBPQymRvuIMFgiNnpS-LRFxVNgzHlgx_TKp9inkdC8dxPx4FKwiAwU6PkBMALhdUoGDQeUFZQiz0/s1209/20230803_174245.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh78M7fUmYuNaL0qiWG2NtTpDzjSbQVYkNbwY4ZUYIOakedOFFZgjS5ZHJ2rd4y2bePAGI3y4OE2ojhTOx0jWKDrMxr9PmY_ExP9z3U0aoOkONpY3CtBPQymRvuIMFgiNnpS-LRFxVNgzHlgx_TKp9inkdC8dxPx4FKwiAwU6PkBMALhdUoGDQeUFZQiz0/s320/20230803_174245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixos0xYW28j-X4ltD977Su-Agd6oLzdi0XBGaxPzK3ySyqOqlAmFaKojaOA2DMjzpJbLBLiEo5o4ATE-k3s5koq2zWfld0W4wDL0HOKdi0mUMyicJfPH-PL5LLgYFLmK0lS_hQcjHmS4ZL5y9PC1lPTRZoD4V0lsDFI1HRlC6yuSqEZy_z7pLP9kN9_aE/s1209/20230803_174430.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixos0xYW28j-X4ltD977Su-Agd6oLzdi0XBGaxPzK3ySyqOqlAmFaKojaOA2DMjzpJbLBLiEo5o4ATE-k3s5koq2zWfld0W4wDL0HOKdi0mUMyicJfPH-PL5LLgYFLmK0lS_hQcjHmS4ZL5y9PC1lPTRZoD4V0lsDFI1HRlC6yuSqEZy_z7pLP9kN9_aE/s320/20230803_174430.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Arrivati al vialone che è una sorta di circonvallazione saltiamo su un colectivo che ci porta al CAPU (per la prima volta l'autista cerca di fregarci con il resto, finora abbiamo sempre trovato gente onestissima, ma la figura del cioccolataio della merda la fa lui, perchè me ne accorgo subito). Questo terminal è enorme e pare più un mercato, tanti sono i negozi e le bancarelle. Con estrema facilità compriamo un biglietto della compagnia AU (autobuses unidos, seconda classe, prezzi pop), ci facciamo spiegare bene da quale delle mille porte si acceda alle banchine giuste e se le bici possano salire. Sì. Bene. Ora non resta che tornare in centro, stavolta con un camione (i pullman non turistici) e cenare, perchè stiamo svenendo dalla fame. Ci godiamo delle enchilladas suizas, huevos revueltos, frutta e qualche biscotto, perchè sì, è tutto meritato (sto gestendo la logistica quasi giorno per giorno e, pe quanto il Messico sia molto agevole, da questo punto di vista, non è facile tener d'occhio i percorsi da fare in bici, quelli con i mezzi, lunghi e brevi, le cose da visitare... Insomma, ormai sono un'agenzia di viaggi che opera contemporaneamente su più fronti 24/7). La soddisfazione è grande, comunque. Domani sera dormiremo già a Città del Messico, in un ostello fighissimo con cui ho preso contatti, in super centro. Non vedo l'ora! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">4/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">Puebla-Città del Messico</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oggi facciamo un po' i turisti comodi, nei tempi e nelle modalità. Ci alziamo tardi, anche perchè io devo recuperare un po' di ore di sonno perdute per strada. Quando si pedala spengo la luce tardi, per affinare la logistica e scrivere, e ci si alza presto. Sento casa, poltriamo qualche decina di minuti, prima di chiudere le borse e portarle al deposito bagagli, dove torneremo a recuperarle nel primo pomeriggio. Usciamo, ma solo per attraversare la strada e tuffarci in una panetteria e pasticceria da urlo vista ieri. Bon Pane, il cui profumo si spande per interi isolati. E' il paradiso terrestre, il nirvana, il luogo dolce del peccato. Ci sono tutti i tipi di prodotti da forno, dolci e salati, semplici ed elaboratissimi, dalla pagnotta bianca alla torta multipiano decorata con sculture iper-realistiche. Prendiamo un vassoio e ci sbizzarriamo, armati di pinza con cui acchiappiamo dolci con la panna, con la crema, con la frutta... Tutti grossi come neonati. E costa anche pochissimo! Nel locale c'è anche un angolo caffetteria, che completa il trittico delle delizie. I piaceri da topo di città, che goduria.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjp4I7ZDN8UIKMr90b7YIg5iYYUyVKFkVJ48d0Io0Cp1mWlg2_LLCoiu4ppDrYQi88ulK44G_5w5FGI3FP_yNrLs3VCO2-etOCsAe-TQNCwguH26TwN82v_u9_JXUQhdMI9zTo_LaEMoDt5fwLkQ5nNErtrVcEb3dd7_5-KaSEGd4ducYB26dPErypas/s1209/20230804_094036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSjp4I7ZDN8UIKMr90b7YIg5iYYUyVKFkVJ48d0Io0Cp1mWlg2_LLCoiu4ppDrYQi88ulK44G_5w5FGI3FP_yNrLs3VCO2-etOCsAe-TQNCwguH26TwN82v_u9_JXUQhdMI9zTo_LaEMoDt5fwLkQ5nNErtrVcEb3dd7_5-KaSEGd4ducYB26dPErypas/s320/20230804_094036.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrPAcYZW9Wuro5Z82bMPniofuTd10wCNqlluxZ1GB1ZqogMmV2MLBvB_i7EZP2BoHIsQovkL60xnOpe1wHVXVos8vG7PacwjtIbGiF8jFeb3Ojky9DnK_nBo2sVJpSxfFSEEJBQmfre_n2pR2aMsIg5BEnxCO-DF2H-JBFOWZ6fl-d6wZ5lWsE7EbQQ2Y/s1209/20230804_094044.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrPAcYZW9Wuro5Z82bMPniofuTd10wCNqlluxZ1GB1ZqogMmV2MLBvB_i7EZP2BoHIsQovkL60xnOpe1wHVXVos8vG7PacwjtIbGiF8jFeb3Ojky9DnK_nBo2sVJpSxfFSEEJBQmfre_n2pR2aMsIg5BEnxCO-DF2H-JBFOWZ6fl-d6wZ5lWsE7EbQQ2Y/s320/20230804_094044.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBXqkMjUOfSvrhuNA7RmCh_Bjom9Yb9hxx6qsLjNoqGssaQZZ5jSRcd-CkWes3Qu2irI-jAeSIgHDhstaOaM31X7GzBGE5-OR_WrqWzS6M41QeeG7u7eY_K82uE4HlagJEejA3zwM8BKgMlhE00J3qdUKVOo5JAPT2-OBMe7VrZcCT4he5MccGyXXNY0/s1209/20230804_094050.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBXqkMjUOfSvrhuNA7RmCh_Bjom9Yb9hxx6qsLjNoqGssaQZZ5jSRcd-CkWes3Qu2irI-jAeSIgHDhstaOaM31X7GzBGE5-OR_WrqWzS6M41QeeG7u7eY_K82uE4HlagJEejA3zwM8BKgMlhE00J3qdUKVOo5JAPT2-OBMe7VrZcCT4he5MccGyXXNY0/s320/20230804_094050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKfNkTSzHqJe2Jng-k49KsBcz_wnIH2mZqsgM5HpPUnuOf-U67SRySOS09f9PXI8X_2BLNjUQv6SNsyBkMryIjODPTV97C0uJNtDQQp0cdbX3cH178WQkooZjelIoHqQuTOnfha4sJYkr6cSKl0H9vmKnvq3bwkQ2VYx5It2-xzGeEnptYO-S_RFTHs0/s1209/20230804_094134.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKfNkTSzHqJe2Jng-k49KsBcz_wnIH2mZqsgM5HpPUnuOf-U67SRySOS09f9PXI8X_2BLNjUQv6SNsyBkMryIjODPTV97C0uJNtDQQp0cdbX3cH178WQkooZjelIoHqQuTOnfha4sJYkr6cSKl0H9vmKnvq3bwkQ2VYx5It2-xzGeEnptYO-S_RFTHs0/s320/20230804_094134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xP7kjyrczgCThyVT9ifIiGnzq73-qlmXwsSXsgUthTpDp-brQf43b2Dxcd4jmwBVuUzh-m8DtL54-BXkL_eO5bV1lElSaZhpK_ubVRAODZnfvUY9-YzyxreK4aFspZpqqvJjZNgJ4wMZMCZEX10hjFYfgJd-6ZQJQtV8QEWA3KsQLQM2JAUOokKaEV0/s1209/20230804_094420.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8xP7kjyrczgCThyVT9ifIiGnzq73-qlmXwsSXsgUthTpDp-brQf43b2Dxcd4jmwBVuUzh-m8DtL54-BXkL_eO5bV1lElSaZhpK_ubVRAODZnfvUY9-YzyxreK4aFspZpqqvJjZNgJ4wMZMCZEX10hjFYfgJd-6ZQJQtV8QEWA3KsQLQM2JAUOokKaEV0/s320/20230804_094420.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf1I2ioA2YMPhXs9iK11n6al-C-K0e3Akqy655roJY7zcrGkce-VhJQDLWhOwvH28izm2CLmOdiT7mQY9v1DRgkZc-qUXLMJTvzauWX1wnh8yNnbri6eFpvgVx-Eim2cGQy5Aw0T0rVzNaU0lB4WlyBkUDUhFf5XTkGWtaDDl3KT7qpTaymcieCAF8Ng/s1209/20230804_094423.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf1I2ioA2YMPhXs9iK11n6al-C-K0e3Akqy655roJY7zcrGkce-VhJQDLWhOwvH28izm2CLmOdiT7mQY9v1DRgkZc-qUXLMJTvzauWX1wnh8yNnbri6eFpvgVx-Eim2cGQy5Aw0T0rVzNaU0lB4WlyBkUDUhFf5XTkGWtaDDl3KT7qpTaymcieCAF8Ng/s320/20230804_094423.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo esserci caricati a pallettoni di zuccheri, saltiamo fuori pronti a esplorare ancora un poco Puebla e il suo animatissimo centro, dove stamattina sono comparsi i suonatori di organetto a manovvella. Ce ne è uno ad ogni incrocio. Ripassiamo davanti alla maestosa cattedrale e accanto alla Casa de la cultura, con annessa biblioteca palafoxiana, per poi percorrere qualche centinaio di metri in una via specializzata in negozi di oggettistica sacra. Ci sono statue di santi, madonne e crocifissi di rara bruttezza.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAHLiQhJ97IPSRgmUbvUqkhvmGpwjpl54MDdvk9TAXa0UlcS9GnXaLrrrP6HJUFU0ob1J9PgDqkEK3THPiv7eDjEA5WSspfzEqcRGp3Ws5q_K5Ec1pleuCjDfBwjG8W-M_uMQaiDclMlIokAnwMeJOQ1jl8sIgLupJq99Ru75HdRwuLPHh1ojKDpVysVE/s1209/20230804_103029.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAHLiQhJ97IPSRgmUbvUqkhvmGpwjpl54MDdvk9TAXa0UlcS9GnXaLrrrP6HJUFU0ob1J9PgDqkEK3THPiv7eDjEA5WSspfzEqcRGp3Ws5q_K5Ec1pleuCjDfBwjG8W-M_uMQaiDclMlIokAnwMeJOQ1jl8sIgLupJq99Ru75HdRwuLPHh1ojKDpVysVE/s320/20230804_103029.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSM539SPDMSgLJOif3ER7OnIPjJpDVnNDEU-FKpV3rw2yTnmFRT3oBhvviP2-v8pLs9qLoM0Pi3HASRZcjga1PBy5Vg0olUeAi_XHj4a8Fa2MBDjd5GRaua3x1b5l9xnrn_Ut7fzACv0n46qGiFZomxBB_JZ5TB4U7hM4dd0oEHGoGTVH1esSYho6FpPc/s1209/20230804_103340.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVqGGMeZ-zrClRvvGbsPW9L-PmcBINv7L0xQjnHiy8FVVPshwfbjo4KkIZYArimEuQQqgWfu6WJmUU5tAQziFw_C-am_syj0g0z_XtsKjAsSXKXrF0m_HvKR28e6Um9Qb7bqsqgqEWb88WAUgoEWT6vviLc_tMelmAbV7BV_47IjkNNDawxQRX12tw2lk/s1209/20230804_103624.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVqGGMeZ-zrClRvvGbsPW9L-PmcBINv7L0xQjnHiy8FVVPshwfbjo4KkIZYArimEuQQqgWfu6WJmUU5tAQziFw_C-am_syj0g0z_XtsKjAsSXKXrF0m_HvKR28e6Um9Qb7bqsqgqEWb88WAUgoEWT6vviLc_tMelmAbV7BV_47IjkNNDawxQRX12tw2lk/s320/20230804_103624.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiL2NZabZq7-_MoKNrDm-ZmcwaolXo5Ybx8uWsw4XoUSZ1zTN0ySAaC9ywK9dIZ5lrxlL0GwJlLrDhpNN404dVomMUJT9lVtPvcBo3EpjAlKvIeovAwix3nICvU-4hFYB0k9IbYBz_lRBniwDA4-22BQk9ilDhQaKKVn_LzT7d5nDDbwaujc5h1tPHOY/s1209/20230804_103659.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiL2NZabZq7-_MoKNrDm-ZmcwaolXo5Ybx8uWsw4XoUSZ1zTN0ySAaC9ywK9dIZ5lrxlL0GwJlLrDhpNN404dVomMUJT9lVtPvcBo3EpjAlKvIeovAwix3nICvU-4hFYB0k9IbYBz_lRBniwDA4-22BQk9ilDhQaKKVn_LzT7d5nDDbwaujc5h1tPHOY/s320/20230804_103659.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG5-WCl5mI5PaKsn04yt5X1UyvHqym1-40rTCj02SSfeckmE4to93nK3ChxU-jfSqQF6cdRH9W4mJDendIVLJotGCYewWkEarSHVLzaVaLtZL-h3kAAf-luxbVN_EYzg8yScKM58HXMIUD4NIRZSt7zilUV4KKnAPFki7EEf6eKQeN5vr0K8tb7cDaHoY/s1209/20230804_104116.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG5-WCl5mI5PaKsn04yt5X1UyvHqym1-40rTCj02SSfeckmE4to93nK3ChxU-jfSqQF6cdRH9W4mJDendIVLJotGCYewWkEarSHVLzaVaLtZL-h3kAAf-luxbVN_EYzg8yScKM58HXMIUD4NIRZSt7zilUV4KKnAPFki7EEf6eKQeN5vr0K8tb7cDaHoY/s320/20230804_104116.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfT0WgY50NaIdslXNTdlVwXP-NvQr-KcamqBYy_q5BzloNxHEntOsFU1SxynLAaijXJ8kRv4FZaKNxozq8nB-ojxJhX4gUHvtIZZdzyEh38fLHU0gS9SiElo-TTCmI4jEkt6rx7vCZ3d85YEyQkkUDC-BYirXInoNeEmq8tvmldi3rnb9hyBRpS8QCM3k/s1209/20230804_104209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfT0WgY50NaIdslXNTdlVwXP-NvQr-KcamqBYy_q5BzloNxHEntOsFU1SxynLAaijXJ8kRv4FZaKNxozq8nB-ojxJhX4gUHvtIZZdzyEh38fLHU0gS9SiElo-TTCmI4jEkt6rx7vCZ3d85YEyQkkUDC-BYirXInoNeEmq8tvmldi3rnb9hyBRpS8QCM3k/s320/20230804_104209.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGD6idGj8kEHpBIORSG1R-xRh_Fcl0AnkAz7SZNLryCPIQ9l8KETJVyexiUfD1ZO1xbLSMXDqyOZMsmtPo-a1HHYqIlzYu41VeIFt5JqVmaYl5JOsZmQZH26kbLDNBVhhtFyApdhexRPdwqHIh0KXHaxzt23fk-58jVf-T-HsBsR6WE-oYg_s2KKABYGQ/s1209/20230804_104212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGD6idGj8kEHpBIORSG1R-xRh_Fcl0AnkAz7SZNLryCPIQ9l8KETJVyexiUfD1ZO1xbLSMXDqyOZMsmtPo-a1HHYqIlzYu41VeIFt5JqVmaYl5JOsZmQZH26kbLDNBVhhtFyApdhexRPdwqHIh0KXHaxzt23fk-58jVf-T-HsBsR6WE-oYg_s2KKABYGQ/s320/20230804_104212.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La nostra meta è il museo Amparo, magnifica collezione privata esposta in due edifici coloniali collegati tra loro, uno del XVI e l'altro del XVII secolo. Il design della struttura riesce a fondere la bellezza delle abitazioni storiche e la modernità degli spazi museali, con vetro, metallo e luci perfette. Oltretutto docenti, studenti e over entrano gratis, e noi, quindi, nemmeno paghiamo il biglietto di ingresso a questo paese dei balocchi della cultura. La prima sala è dedicata a una temporanea dell'artista Artemio, Sangre; sono state prese opere famose di artisti -principalmente europei, come Caravaggio, Goya...- e ne è stata riportata, su tela bianca, solo la traccia del sangue presente nelle scene raffigurate. Se non si conoscono i quadri originali si perde il senso, ma, avendoli presente, è interessante come progetto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwwl5rvCXyzn-UT1ROGqS-BeWpU8iE3p-k2G3vSGIqgsEiiiLFIxDNGnpYE5_xZzQ06yeWCt6-WQZ416ApLWFKKjzexBeS6KAkMqjcoXn27raXEtGzoSrO_qPo_PeDhNAzOWIOOY73fm25NfEwcnWmBjusbiVh5iZfMD6BgiisZ55Yjqgbo092_YWUuY/s1209/20230804_105348.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwwl5rvCXyzn-UT1ROGqS-BeWpU8iE3p-k2G3vSGIqgsEiiiLFIxDNGnpYE5_xZzQ06yeWCt6-WQZ416ApLWFKKjzexBeS6KAkMqjcoXn27raXEtGzoSrO_qPo_PeDhNAzOWIOOY73fm25NfEwcnWmBjusbiVh5iZfMD6BgiisZ55Yjqgbo092_YWUuY/s320/20230804_105348.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_HGGi4NSyHCgiOvHOHp8FdtF2vkvMQ1luvULdfmrsDi9-gqbxyJgEDje9S-KBZGOZw3rfMRpY9YvitcWHTzDq4743ItjOpSkaY6kPk-T8qbc6jS0bHrgJoDEmSwubzydIsiSl2iqVUYtUHRK9Fq2xRtNVsKfTjt9I2uO1BH8H5dWhNV-MtZ179Vmd-0/s979/20230804_110153.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_HGGi4NSyHCgiOvHOHp8FdtF2vkvMQ1luvULdfmrsDi9-gqbxyJgEDje9S-KBZGOZw3rfMRpY9YvitcWHTzDq4743ItjOpSkaY6kPk-T8qbc6jS0bHrgJoDEmSwubzydIsiSl2iqVUYtUHRK9Fq2xRtNVsKfTjt9I2uO1BH8H5dWhNV-MtZ179Vmd-0/s320/20230804_110153.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il fiore all'occhiello del museo resta, comunque, la collezione di reperti preispanici. Non sono migliaia, ma ben selezionati, di fattura pregevolissima e valore artistico inestimabile. Inoltre l'esposizione mira a sottolineare la continuità delle culture tra passato e presente, anche attraversa la permanenza nel tempo di forme artistiche e rappresentazioni del reale che poco son mutate nei secoli. E' incredibile cogliere questo continuum, ad esempio, nei profili dei volti, nei motivi e nei colori degli ornamenti, nei crani rituali e in quelli che oggi abbondano nel Dia de los muertos.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJMvG7xWp_9H20KhPg2x82vWX763LJ26LZegwzJRcA8w3dKWs_YBS4CF0kPRoOCCpzI_qsBA33zTHQejOayD2lrWDv76rIg0LRGFFP50kifWsJeScJEWB0f7NEeyFzOJqC27Q5zyJPVdwgv2hWPaeOpCkrE6yjURqpnize7Z6H5v1DzOvVnvH3BjnAGSc/s1209/20230804_110319.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJMvG7xWp_9H20KhPg2x82vWX763LJ26LZegwzJRcA8w3dKWs_YBS4CF0kPRoOCCpzI_qsBA33zTHQejOayD2lrWDv76rIg0LRGFFP50kifWsJeScJEWB0f7NEeyFzOJqC27Q5zyJPVdwgv2hWPaeOpCkrE6yjURqpnize7Z6H5v1DzOvVnvH3BjnAGSc/s320/20230804_110319.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una linea del tempo che mostra la contemporaneità delle culture nei continenti</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyitikCNWUA3u-vOtnv6B-s9WATmwhlOh-XAPbWk7p-2L1iHCclEXRmO6Am-RLaVqNy4kGBqN1PDfdurQIVwpYjThyMUFva28OrRLrTpOCXr65cylppubdZWQCCaJLJ27Laa4g7R5Cvg6jds8B_iP1n_sHxyV2rKeuC1xjfWDuY_xx0FKyaGsF7n8Mpo8/s1209/20230804_110450.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyitikCNWUA3u-vOtnv6B-s9WATmwhlOh-XAPbWk7p-2L1iHCclEXRmO6Am-RLaVqNy4kGBqN1PDfdurQIVwpYjThyMUFva28OrRLrTpOCXr65cylppubdZWQCCaJLJ27Laa4g7R5Cvg6jds8B_iP1n_sHxyV2rKeuC1xjfWDuY_xx0FKyaGsF7n8Mpo8/s320/20230804_110450.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMmCDGuZx9aWMk0KjApopvqquzXBcion5b6rlN8wkazjL3kcsBbbwTpulGUjJiKH3w-PQKbIg7108Uc_4tGXm-UyPoAe6pgaIYOex_PP4CxC99RFUXDuC0uVYC-_KrqCKrp4m65Y-U0xiF_kzmTqzuxWsKMjxSe4lD2Dfg5BS1L87tZZ5GCNr7qY3MsE/s1209/20230804_111428.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMmCDGuZx9aWMk0KjApopvqquzXBcion5b6rlN8wkazjL3kcsBbbwTpulGUjJiKH3w-PQKbIg7108Uc_4tGXm-UyPoAe6pgaIYOex_PP4CxC99RFUXDuC0uVYC-_KrqCKrp4m65Y-U0xiF_kzmTqzuxWsKMjxSe4lD2Dfg5BS1L87tZZ5GCNr7qY3MsE/s320/20230804_111428.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZ6Y9LCjpXfJuT6L9oLnnvHK8VSiamrMQqiq0CBIrGeVjVKt7zRD0liJqj_7Q3nFx-3HdzgERtq4fIQUg-i9_YYhSZFEHi-TTxmpzWusDqCMz_vpRpUbwkDg3ZR26CYbuArLHk0pbxJ8CWxpnYIs27fZHGLC7JgUJy_U6Nv_Jdqaj6CD4a4LAd_KW8YE/s1209/20230804_111441.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZ6Y9LCjpXfJuT6L9oLnnvHK8VSiamrMQqiq0CBIrGeVjVKt7zRD0liJqj_7Q3nFx-3HdzgERtq4fIQUg-i9_YYhSZFEHi-TTxmpzWusDqCMz_vpRpUbwkDg3ZR26CYbuArLHk0pbxJ8CWxpnYIs27fZHGLC7JgUJy_U6Nv_Jdqaj6CD4a4LAd_KW8YE/s320/20230804_111441.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgut1cXjNAdaU2xXkR_B3EefgnbBMLrWd75ypk8uB0lerA5OjqH5tmMNBspvaacFRPmy25pdlNlk74n-F7lpgwE5X7LUuCIR2oVQPS8kiPxG1NzN4NzsoRxPRnYHBWgIqtN5BHdlDA8pSVUnl4aUm44I_mJCocxVNPFR7fB9b4ZpBASGrSySAbdl67eftA/s1209/20230804_114635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgut1cXjNAdaU2xXkR_B3EefgnbBMLrWd75ypk8uB0lerA5OjqH5tmMNBspvaacFRPmy25pdlNlk74n-F7lpgwE5X7LUuCIR2oVQPS8kiPxG1NzN4NzsoRxPRnYHBWgIqtN5BHdlDA8pSVUnl4aUm44I_mJCocxVNPFR7fB9b4ZpBASGrSySAbdl67eftA/s320/20230804_114635.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UkCn65mALxPg1k-KoyxgTuCJDBYwGms5M4nHENo-PGEuBHauEX937icR64ZXf7bAFpsS7QT-ysLA46IjIl53HLioPDlO9hpILatUmZZY-2njZOLbSO7tdGCPtDzpK5atwNJ4CYJ8ZFinFjt9yAX9FWNQ8FfdEPtXlmW4ApLfhiwY3mNSo4p1XeDpG3U/s1209/20230804_114738.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8UkCn65mALxPg1k-KoyxgTuCJDBYwGms5M4nHENo-PGEuBHauEX937icR64ZXf7bAFpsS7QT-ysLA46IjIl53HLioPDlO9hpILatUmZZY-2njZOLbSO7tdGCPtDzpK5atwNJ4CYJ8ZFinFjt9yAX9FWNQ8FfdEPtXlmW4ApLfhiwY3mNSo4p1XeDpG3U/s320/20230804_114738.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo esserci letteralmente bevuti un sorso alla volta questo nettare di meraviglia, passiamo ai piani superiori, dove ci sono mostre di arte contemporanea. Una sala è dedicata alla coscienza indigena, la consapevolezza di essere depositari delle radici, delle tradizioni, delle fondamenta del paese, e quella di essere da secoli schiavizzati, emarginati, sfruttati e deprivati di ogni diritto. Essere i primi e gli ultimi, questa è la loro condizione. Mi ha colpita quest'opera: una sedia da scolaro, con banchetto e qualche libro a sostenere il tutto, in solitudine, con davanti una grande lavagna che recita lapidaria: "Lii qui Gannalù", che in zapoteco significa: "Tu non sai", ovvero, "Sei ignorante". Il riferimento è ovviamente alla posizione subalterna assunta dalle lingue native, degradate a dialetti, rispetto allo spagnolo, che però si impara a scuola, non è per tutti lingua madre... E la scuola non è diritto, ma privilegio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhI70j1wZzHsGR6MZHOjH9m9i61tDo8G668AvxSxSZa6YJReVVVrdSbAareopazCQmjI6XibhyEQhrky1bp4m3knATgL5KvGqYu6lyI57EpL5WWN5PxqfhBn02kagGzvFwn-Sfy5MaixGKMc94Zfst96bd0n5JvfLDUSxNhgJHeehp8BtvF8b_aDi3t30/s1209/20230804_115356.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhI70j1wZzHsGR6MZHOjH9m9i61tDo8G668AvxSxSZa6YJReVVVrdSbAareopazCQmjI6XibhyEQhrky1bp4m3knATgL5KvGqYu6lyI57EpL5WWN5PxqfhBn02kagGzvFwn-Sfy5MaixGKMc94Zfst96bd0n5JvfLDUSxNhgJHeehp8BtvF8b_aDi3t30/s320/20230804_115356.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non mancano poi le opere dei collettivi e degli artisti vicini all'EZLN, con i loro manifesti che invitano alla rivoluzione, al cambiamento, all'uguaglianza e al femminismo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuvEN1ML6yaMC2QLr1JYiah_9fy6IOSWbktko7ZBMdBGtS0m1pNYfEful8cm0f1JL1bC3BrMRlmSu64cXFkCER0gRklrIYa4EIhNtRdQDsl7Q2lhAjw4vvN_omw5Mt41jHDS1jZmqeI66_z0N8LeaAvNP2pljp1YfSFiEYuXo7CYD4fsaD-7GPl8ByrU/s1209/20230804_115805.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuvEN1ML6yaMC2QLr1JYiah_9fy6IOSWbktko7ZBMdBGtS0m1pNYfEful8cm0f1JL1bC3BrMRlmSu64cXFkCER0gRklrIYa4EIhNtRdQDsl7Q2lhAjw4vvN_omw5Mt41jHDS1jZmqeI66_z0N8LeaAvNP2pljp1YfSFiEYuXo7CYD4fsaD-7GPl8ByrU/s320/20230804_115805.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQneeTfDqYS_YoS-9Zym0IsdOwMUaV4Q3wpqretuS0UukWdGYd3Zu6eHzKv8N21Xy6DHPjYeE89zxfK87POeevDT_FXrHIb6NDeT0hEoHJgoB9zfokU2G7-gklgHNAJEI1sto-3b9LgFNdTVGcuuKOP6_kpwa0-Ekn3jAJpwy_vcd1WRijtqIvs3aK7s/s1209/20230804_115814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQneeTfDqYS_YoS-9Zym0IsdOwMUaV4Q3wpqretuS0UukWdGYd3Zu6eHzKv8N21Xy6DHPjYeE89zxfK87POeevDT_FXrHIb6NDeT0hEoHJgoB9zfokU2G7-gklgHNAJEI1sto-3b9LgFNdTVGcuuKOP6_kpwa0-Ekn3jAJpwy_vcd1WRijtqIvs3aK7s/s320/20230804_115814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbLy8-ICCehYfeKhpI-CLysnc06dnHu8c1W47njLror7YhD4RiybR60bx9fES54Z7r9BuImY84nOFqJ-aGB33osMrHRivwJZDAM_aLtul21B23_Jv5GLnrVmLunYDN7rL3SxD8rcWdBd-tbL5ONY5dhngOG5calr4oDzNe8attsVXBon463jOoPsGQNjY/s1209/20230804_115843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbLy8-ICCehYfeKhpI-CLysnc06dnHu8c1W47njLror7YhD4RiybR60bx9fES54Z7r9BuImY84nOFqJ-aGB33osMrHRivwJZDAM_aLtul21B23_Jv5GLnrVmLunYDN7rL3SxD8rcWdBd-tbL5ONY5dhngOG5calr4oDzNe8attsVXBon463jOoPsGQNjY/s320/20230804_115843.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si prosegue in sale che ospitano temporanee che mettono in luce aspetti più o meno problematici del Messico, dallo sfruttamento dei lavoratori, topi meccanici, alla condizione delle donne, spesso assai difficile, in un paese dove il femminicidio è purtroppo una realtà più che quotidiana, che nemmeno desta troppo scandalo e fa parte di una anormale normalità.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTIIIF3wIU5yFQJ4sYcEvqLqdvIapTCy3MQ3cGXEGJ8RdgKajB6DEOpsWXVeBCkLtEpja-9gF7zenMJmJOBsIs2fq9A8y8-74eL-M43ZGumLH5fmAwtnRY8946O-U0HeTBeqjZosWeXvS_mTIkXniz7tMVPGEHyddtUtwt_pCmLPKGjODuJROUWVVwxpA/s979/20230804_120305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTIIIF3wIU5yFQJ4sYcEvqLqdvIapTCy3MQ3cGXEGJ8RdgKajB6DEOpsWXVeBCkLtEpja-9gF7zenMJmJOBsIs2fq9A8y8-74eL-M43ZGumLH5fmAwtnRY8946O-U0HeTBeqjZosWeXvS_mTIkXniz7tMVPGEHyddtUtwt_pCmLPKGjODuJROUWVVwxpA/s320/20230804_120305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzCWITUEcSQgkYMqBGOou_N2lS05fY0KcnlZhALFCMBfs-SRRbYkaDiT5eClVeecCcVxt4ku-9a8JbStfcYRSAX7JMbkJe9aNZv7X-MUQEXji9M-Nd-W0QiZwlPyxh0CEWoawikdEpRdTXd8JhQErqmPcpnLgDs9QCCf2_pXs8PvvDzUHeoUur3SZUO8/s1209/20230804_120418.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzCWITUEcSQgkYMqBGOou_N2lS05fY0KcnlZhALFCMBfs-SRRbYkaDiT5eClVeecCcVxt4ku-9a8JbStfcYRSAX7JMbkJe9aNZv7X-MUQEXji9M-Nd-W0QiZwlPyxh0CEWoawikdEpRdTXd8JhQErqmPcpnLgDs9QCCf2_pXs8PvvDzUHeoUur3SZUO8/s320/20230804_120418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Oh9Ibpws7yclJd4GI0Nz0GPbxdqJgX6oOF4IGXhXM_TkjzYTpiU3goYFDH8MhvIXwjOVoAQfz1VRDcK1vADoaVctuQs-vz0tPoRWSd9p-saAV3sYrIsTNI0EVP1zz5pf5h6llV3Ad_vMsoFrx1jWuhA39_-zTYzgmZPdH8Uz_4VkO0RApCaLk8G-2Hw/s1209/20230804_120442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Oh9Ibpws7yclJd4GI0Nz0GPbxdqJgX6oOF4IGXhXM_TkjzYTpiU3goYFDH8MhvIXwjOVoAQfz1VRDcK1vADoaVctuQs-vz0tPoRWSd9p-saAV3sYrIsTNI0EVP1zz5pf5h6llV3Ad_vMsoFrx1jWuhA39_-zTYzgmZPdH8Uz_4VkO0RApCaLk8G-2Hw/s320/20230804_120442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUvO4Zk8JgiMp46jSFhnAle9_rnPvYR7xOB89DME1pRdzLPRsfrEUm8jU0KJC9VaxHncrvlQ4joLRlS1L7EjaDZ2mr3VYAciW5YmeX5m_BlANwQQYHwIOlwrOafNVkvBGcE4qclMM7Sakrgd4ysuwgCcUq7sMiUj-q22Ak1kmqjLJ6d5PcsHNWXpwNrY/s1209/20230804_120839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUvO4Zk8JgiMp46jSFhnAle9_rnPvYR7xOB89DME1pRdzLPRsfrEUm8jU0KJC9VaxHncrvlQ4joLRlS1L7EjaDZ2mr3VYAciW5YmeX5m_BlANwQQYHwIOlwrOafNVkvBGcE4qclMM7Sakrgd4ysuwgCcUq7sMiUj-q22Ak1kmqjLJ6d5PcsHNWXpwNrY/s320/20230804_120839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Z95wuO2vULLhjet5wnphu0VQQEa6e4FeQNGit55cFc2WdRT-foyQms963bSNPzq0x5bJ3MlkxMHS-SGi1oxYPHv7B3MpyWAs1hL23M78haI1sCwzskuufjgq1z08GR5nynbycV0RFoLaGYcmJ__EMiVIRzwr9DU9BLez2boYo4GsbzrCydhXOl3Vb0A/s979/20230804_120851.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Z95wuO2vULLhjet5wnphu0VQQEa6e4FeQNGit55cFc2WdRT-foyQms963bSNPzq0x5bJ3MlkxMHS-SGi1oxYPHv7B3MpyWAs1hL23M78haI1sCwzskuufjgq1z08GR5nynbycV0RFoLaGYcmJ__EMiVIRzwr9DU9BLez2boYo4GsbzrCydhXOl3Vb0A/s320/20230804_120851.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_NCZu-Rcho8FUFet8JkeB4NKgHIxBJFQjIg1zkdciqYCKXRjZDFx20t2cpoI20HTviu2Nxm8ToPPEWiG1V3_9wMKgjxYUST5R5-Bx5dLn5PmLzhd3VN7_8IE6Fhhj2nkTMQFpDprZwP5uKAc_8FBr8VuHSHNhbbp9kfLOWEVWMLRiUHvEfYuUnEQApA/s1209/20230804_120908.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_NCZu-Rcho8FUFet8JkeB4NKgHIxBJFQjIg1zkdciqYCKXRjZDFx20t2cpoI20HTviu2Nxm8ToPPEWiG1V3_9wMKgjxYUST5R5-Bx5dLn5PmLzhd3VN7_8IE6Fhhj2nkTMQFpDprZwP5uKAc_8FBr8VuHSHNhbbp9kfLOWEVWMLRiUHvEfYuUnEQApA/s320/20230804_120908.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUEYdsF7Vx064QAkXWyLfdp-881ulR5jO8Eoex0ZDhWaVL-Fs82c94rpFXwYtOLz_Q4UHJX7Vfv38zqUuIKhfY_UtzAqLTPSjA9rtXGRiNvqfyzYQa9R9OFfopDZSVBwnktuWRS6fIgzykpmbSanZIac14-VgwhOEDplveWXvdXmf_dBlspKHWj3X_wE/s1209/20230804_122626.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUEYdsF7Vx064QAkXWyLfdp-881ulR5jO8Eoex0ZDhWaVL-Fs82c94rpFXwYtOLz_Q4UHJX7Vfv38zqUuIKhfY_UtzAqLTPSjA9rtXGRiNvqfyzYQa9R9OFfopDZSVBwnktuWRS6fIgzykpmbSanZIac14-VgwhOEDplveWXvdXmf_dBlspKHWj3X_wE/s320/20230804_122626.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-BfeX40gLvcEcjclUhEAtlSySpMtA5qQbolfXziccVt586sVP-Dk7_VqOTh-IWC5z36r3wAcAEScVLamSfp7MEJdb9N-XWbhm-ZzNbRuDvoE3Fvq7hFoDmPk0gX6BrWvoVssF63ylcbw_Y-05nc9-RXVhBmwn6S-UgHDTKWEXC85ujfiBkrS9EmGSps/s1209/20230804_122754.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-BfeX40gLvcEcjclUhEAtlSySpMtA5qQbolfXziccVt586sVP-Dk7_VqOTh-IWC5z36r3wAcAEScVLamSfp7MEJdb9N-XWbhm-ZzNbRuDvoE3Fvq7hFoDmPk0gX6BrWvoVssF63ylcbw_Y-05nc9-RXVhBmwn6S-UgHDTKWEXC85ujfiBkrS9EmGSps/s320/20230804_122754.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">macerie prime, per citare Zero Calcare</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBuY99JhM-2sBdG9j0Hqfmwm8wZxdK3RZp7KGjooJoEaA8LWAeLGQnjBmsTh5yx7gv7N-m8ttAzBKk8foc2N5bDAFLF166roLmgbwTlWVhE4jain-FaW42jLHRl2-JGErse61SxAFbBF0TYXnt32kz4vAOciZwRliJRpl2Qnzf-nyFaKXsPw5FSovG8FM/s1209/20230804_123204.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBuY99JhM-2sBdG9j0Hqfmwm8wZxdK3RZp7KGjooJoEaA8LWAeLGQnjBmsTh5yx7gv7N-m8ttAzBKk8foc2N5bDAFLF166roLmgbwTlWVhE4jain-FaW42jLHRl2-JGErse61SxAFbBF0TYXnt32kz4vAOciZwRliJRpl2Qnzf-nyFaKXsPw5FSovG8FM/s320/20230804_123204.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">anche noi ci siamo trasformati in pezzi da museo</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo aver trascorso la mattinata al museo, si fa ora di tornare a recuperare le bici, al parcheggio custodito, e i bagagli, in hotel. Per entrambe le procedure sono necessari fogli, foglietti, scontrini, e tutto deve essere timbrato, altrimenti non si muove foglia. Noi abbiamo da pedalare e da prendere un bus e questa burocrazia bizantina mi fa impazzire. Ma implodo, senza denotazioni udibili all'esterno e senza schegge, perchè so che il problema della fretta qui non si pone. Dopo aver recuperato tutti i papiri e tutti i sigilli, come in un episodio di Tomb Raider, riusciamo a metter mano alle bici e... Quella di Gigi ha la ruota davanti a terra. Per fortuna c'è un negozio di ciclismo con officina proprio di fronte al parcheggio, e Gigi si fa cambiare al volo la camera d'aria. Noi ne abbiamo, ma ci metteremmo troppo tempo. Intanto quella che era stata implosione diventa esplosione devastante, e faccio una bella parte sia ai gestori del garage sia ai bucaioli con la puzza sotto al naso dell'hotel. Tanto devo aspettare Gigi e ho tempo da perdere (tale è, non è colpa di nessuno mai). Il tutto deriva dal fatto che, a detta del ciclista, la camera d'aria era intatta e non c'erano forature, semplicemente qualcuno si è divertito a sgonfiare la gomma. Gli auguro che tutta l'aria che ha cavato per gioco gli esca dal bus del gnao nel momento meno opportuno della sua vita, e ciò gli costi insanabile stigma.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvagI3BKq_xrVPQfT6MCqZdav1cFBG4bMTDUr2UA_IhBihOrDE9eG5MyW8QHRB8w9DhGKL5SboIxL1ASAFvOCBXWyxQs-IEzpTs6KO5-SDonCNTJYmuiuoAs7HJGQZow9UHD6Jm33eAEXw8E-pWIgcoYMAu2cUpperpMsErcm1oyD96bHgd_w5quv4yJA/s1209/20230804_131009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvagI3BKq_xrVPQfT6MCqZdav1cFBG4bMTDUr2UA_IhBihOrDE9eG5MyW8QHRB8w9DhGKL5SboIxL1ASAFvOCBXWyxQs-IEzpTs6KO5-SDonCNTJYmuiuoAs7HJGQZow9UHD6Jm33eAEXw8E-pWIgcoYMAu2cUpperpMsErcm1oyD96bHgd_w5quv4yJA/s320/20230804_131009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Già abbiamo perso del buon tempo, ma siamo ancora in anticipo per raggiungere la stazione CAPU. E meno male! Perchè il navigatore ci fa finire dritti dritti in una strada chiusa al traffico dove si svolge un mercato di quelli ben grandi e ben incasinati. Il tutto su fondo di sabbia e fango, perchè l'asfalto, non si sa come, manca. Tiriamo giù un numero discreto di moccoli, e, tra un baracchino dei tacos e uno dei cocchifreschi, riusciamo a passare senza investire nessuno.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_aBKWbf__6F93I1QB13ssIXSfoqALOCvCk099wX9ShkpB7xObJtYsZjPlMkXyLt9W5BuSbESaizfDgaVjkuaifRnzvkArwQZrKWxtYc4XKTUdNC-kDcXnBMTNfpC7KYFepvlPk7clYK24XUcCqmA0f0E48TlAT38tRFREu2Y5VY6pBzfkR56j5R4Gkpc/s1209/20230804_133620.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_aBKWbf__6F93I1QB13ssIXSfoqALOCvCk099wX9ShkpB7xObJtYsZjPlMkXyLt9W5BuSbESaizfDgaVjkuaifRnzvkArwQZrKWxtYc4XKTUdNC-kDcXnBMTNfpC7KYFepvlPk7clYK24XUcCqmA0f0E48TlAT38tRFREu2Y5VY6pBzfkR56j5R4Gkpc/s320/20230804_133620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0uYNRqZfvZxHCrdAv2R-Q2PzjfDkhCSZCk3iUiXhfICJDuCM_jh6zuUs45CwYGrIvt9X9T-07K5mS-6Fdvm7TSWBefs0yp1os7eODpcfwiNuFL9oOXxPs7Z1yefaw3Rg0VRul9OdWYyGkx42JNrfSNyIOU7_lpEKGAKFwH2hePpzhCpzJtp-YEz923U8/s1209/20230804_133627.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0uYNRqZfvZxHCrdAv2R-Q2PzjfDkhCSZCk3iUiXhfICJDuCM_jh6zuUs45CwYGrIvt9X9T-07K5mS-6Fdvm7TSWBefs0yp1os7eODpcfwiNuFL9oOXxPs7Z1yefaw3Rg0VRul9OdWYyGkx42JNrfSNyIOU7_lpEKGAKFwH2hePpzhCpzJtp-YEz923U8/s320/20230804_133627.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEM6g4386reIXo87Qw59kTov9Bp3lb0v-wD_zPsZ8KYGcng-U1KHIaBkUK2XJaoE78PlkJ11seqTYQ4C6qHRdikPsLrP8AcJcrU-m4MJPT9jrt8UUT2nF0suLZnvV8d_Q4gNzrnAxRvnos1cXCvZZMK4fyNpnnXTkWpr0CJn4-8g7tQTUgek7CUU4ePok/s1209/20230804_133757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEM6g4386reIXo87Qw59kTov9Bp3lb0v-wD_zPsZ8KYGcng-U1KHIaBkUK2XJaoE78PlkJ11seqTYQ4C6qHRdikPsLrP8AcJcrU-m4MJPT9jrt8UUT2nF0suLZnvV8d_Q4gNzrnAxRvnos1cXCvZZMK4fyNpnnXTkWpr0CJn4-8g7tQTUgek7CUU4ePok/s320/20230804_133757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciti dalla zona del mercato si fa tutto più semplice, e raggiungiamo il terminal degli autobus per tempo. Grazie alle indicazioni forniteci ieri dalla bigliettaia, ci muoviamo agilmente tra le ennesime bancarelle e ci piazziamo in pole position alla porta 1, dove si accede alle banchine dei bus per la capitale.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_gRszCZfKuEIRA75djPQ6YhYzFPvyPvaF2BFNHTMAeapfaqn9TyFhYEYns7S_D0WB1AyAc3s7FyF0Zk5QSpyJs5f2fV-OycYtgvyLkZpFgrbBnjGBGQQcg3tGCMxPTRi6WoHsTdQslwRsMcA3hy7Iw4mNVccnhkQhbB_XXsDaCyGJF3QGav8YCnfvUQE/s1209/20230804_140325.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_gRszCZfKuEIRA75djPQ6YhYzFPvyPvaF2BFNHTMAeapfaqn9TyFhYEYns7S_D0WB1AyAc3s7FyF0Zk5QSpyJs5f2fV-OycYtgvyLkZpFgrbBnjGBGQQcg3tGCMxPTRi6WoHsTdQslwRsMcA3hy7Iw4mNVccnhkQhbB_XXsDaCyGJF3QGav8YCnfvUQE/s320/20230804_140325.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nell'attesa conosciamo due ragazzi, un laureato in chimica e un laureando in medicina, che stanno andando a Città del Messico per un festival di musica elettronica. Sono interessatissimi ai nostri viaggi, vogliono vedere le foto e dicono che anche a loro piace viaggiare ma non sono mai usciti dal Messico. Quando raccontiamo le nostre avventure commentano sospirando "vivendo el sueño!" e simili. Mi seguono sui social e ci salutano, è arrivato il loro pullman.</div><div><br /></div><div>Tra un venditore di popcorn (palomitas) e uno strillone che promuove i suoi gelati, arriva anche per noi il momento di imbarcarci. Anche stavolta le regole teoriche della policy sui bagagli vengono infrante con un'alzata di spalle, a nostro favore. Le bici vanno nel vano inferiore montante, senza doverle minimamente toccare, e non vengono pesate (in teoria oltre i 25kg di bagaglio si paga un extra). Ma i passeggeri sono pochi e quasi tutti viaggiano solo con uno zainetto, quindi, no hay problema! Che figata, in questo senso il Messico è un paradiso.</div><div><br /></div><div>Il tragitto in pullman ci porta a oltre 3200m di quota, passando sulle boscose pendici dell'Iztaccihuatl, la terza vetta del paese con i suoi 5220m. Si tratta di un vulcano spento che si erge proprio accanto al più famoso e attivissimo Popo(catepetl), 5452m. Torneremo qui nei prossimi giorni, ma in bici, per "conquistare" il Paso de Cortes e i suoi meravigliosi dintorni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKL-uVY7KYipX4ECetlo9pqTwa9_mzZgTOv_LMOVHNa6NRc_6fX0KBL0NilbVtsyuQWhBDxpZMVlejTt78r_0wuOUW-9FEDkUyUM9mfLrOyEbdrQeL5OMEgWxGURLOlwD-oemHk6f_yhptim9VIsW6cI_fSYSnHRsxuZzBhLeNI5Wpy-Zlsz-ewAP1s5o/s1209/20230804_162442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKL-uVY7KYipX4ECetlo9pqTwa9_mzZgTOv_LMOVHNa6NRc_6fX0KBL0NilbVtsyuQWhBDxpZMVlejTt78r_0wuOUW-9FEDkUyUM9mfLrOyEbdrQeL5OMEgWxGURLOlwD-oemHk6f_yhptim9VIsW6cI_fSYSnHRsxuZzBhLeNI5Wpy-Zlsz-ewAP1s5o/s320/20230804_162442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh74hqallcE4JahVFmeFVuluqVevfy96Ye-4J2f9L0Ki07au90lzkp1Z1pzrjfROc_gk3yT96CrY1274Q-IeAn5_WESuX6AWl55QLr_el7TSDhfDqKk33g2jDvB0Hz-bVmGHcxpwOpbnQxUTvsm76Pxd75odxDnu4R1lUZ-QeKAuMxxpSJF2S_HvdtFkpE/s1209/20230804_163429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh74hqallcE4JahVFmeFVuluqVevfy96Ye-4J2f9L0Ki07au90lzkp1Z1pzrjfROc_gk3yT96CrY1274Q-IeAn5_WESuX6AWl55QLr_el7TSDhfDqKk33g2jDvB0Hz-bVmGHcxpwOpbnQxUTvsm76Pxd75odxDnu4R1lUZ-QeKAuMxxpSJF2S_HvdtFkpE/s320/20230804_163429.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A un tratto davanti a noi si apre il vasto catino di anime e asfalto che è Città del Messico, con i suoi dintorni. Da qui si riesce ben a immaginare come, quando i conquistadores arrivarono, si trovarono davanti a un sistema di laghi abitato da oltre 300.000 persone, le cui vie principali erano canali navigabili, con alcune strade rialzate sopra all'acqua e giardini pensili con le coltivazioni. Qui, in mezzo ai monti e ai vulcani, c'era una distesa d'acqua, non terra, non roccia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-TrDsrvK3VjzTfoVh9MGx1fCga1G1FznueqB7QAB0FRGiLBfyqbsE_B7Fcy3XIAYYBUSZrdNlAKCatl9cZnhIrQmFxruLpxMLedwyB6gFnyyYbbsN3Va11FdVSKK3qxUrPU-8LIgEOzIN8fhSyS1s3QgnTDqyvcOgUEsMrudgAPFYy6IXA9juNHj-c8/s1209/20230804_163707.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4-TrDsrvK3VjzTfoVh9MGx1fCga1G1FznueqB7QAB0FRGiLBfyqbsE_B7Fcy3XIAYYBUSZrdNlAKCatl9cZnhIrQmFxruLpxMLedwyB6gFnyyYbbsN3Va11FdVSKK3qxUrPU-8LIgEOzIN8fhSyS1s3QgnTDqyvcOgUEsMrudgAPFYy6IXA9juNHj-c8/s320/20230804_163707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0SCeFd6AjuMZ3e64a-jYcWQGMMTjJyPvmYh-oRo3Um_RkpIkX9PakiEl-uRUhVyxZZFaEARCSkG7laJZteLCYZ_jsp3wFY4k5U3jgIgCpBflsyo5CikfdMvvVNMOYuNOuk2C1AE6bHH9zMZEZpSPmx-CIE8KgyMU2aOZ7ng6cS8v4JfezFlpsom7Ids/s1209/20230804_163818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ0SCeFd6AjuMZ3e64a-jYcWQGMMTjJyPvmYh-oRo3Um_RkpIkX9PakiEl-uRUhVyxZZFaEARCSkG7laJZteLCYZ_jsp3wFY4k5U3jgIgCpBflsyo5CikfdMvvVNMOYuNOuk2C1AE6bHH9zMZEZpSPmx-CIE8KgyMU2aOZ7ng6cS8v4JfezFlpsom7Ids/s320/20230804_163818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYjBJdmCq-ps5El0jVYJwCmef0XG8xE3Vx_OBq2UagnlBHTNlz6_p3rr7UjsYD-axod1XGKCM-9pIeZtbTWXGBc384oo2Jvw3DtVkdq0ZHH0TvRrgxd5PTutO_RxLjfFhdLwMhW3hYHPUnith_M_DNRvfCC2MUrJku20F5aqzJE8_XQ6qVMdnYjundEA/s1209/20230804_170109.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYjBJdmCq-ps5El0jVYJwCmef0XG8xE3Vx_OBq2UagnlBHTNlz6_p3rr7UjsYD-axod1XGKCM-9pIeZtbTWXGBc384oo2Jvw3DtVkdq0ZHH0TvRrgxd5PTutO_RxLjfFhdLwMhW3hYHPUnith_M_DNRvfCC2MUrJku20F5aqzJE8_XQ6qVMdnYjundEA/s320/20230804_170109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A 15km dalla stazione di arrivo, la TAPO, il nostro autobus buca, rallenta, si ferma. Scendiamo a bordo strada e risaliamo sul bus successivo, che ci ospita. Per noi questo significa, ovviamente, movimentare alla veloce e nel casino le bici e sei borse, perchè una volta al giorno l'ansietta del carico e scarico non basta! In ciò, io ho fatto male i conti e sto male da due ore per quanto mi scappa la pipì. Credevo ci fosse il bagno sul pullman, come di solito. Invece no! E quindi soffro, ma a livelli che non potete immaginare. L'agonia è durata ore!</div><div>Dopo un tempo interminabile, dilatato dall'urgenza, scendiamo, Gigi scarica tutto mentre io mi fiondo in bagno (e anche qui: monetina, non va la macchinetta, poi dentro c'è una fila pazzesca... "La morrrrrte si sconta vivendo" diceva Ungaretti, e si riferiva anche a questo), poi impieghiamo mezz'ora a capire da dove si esca dal terminal. Perchè è un labirinto, un dedalo di corridoi, scale, banchine, altre banchine esterne, altre scale, sottopassaggi e cancelli chiusi. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsRZ-KHe6aGvRn-LG_addOLlE-TJYxiQpE0byd4eRBjOJKdjuNzKCmoby09oF5ZNA5QNV2YT-a22Ka5FeqljlQVPT9VXitkQ-TCLGTWaqo6FVJ8chRnjh98qh47OY0rktAv3ur7z6uo74HHZwWk_Uwu_gfqsqaA1sVAvhkdDtQtiZeHkRCTJQbhr6bfWI/s1209/20230804_181443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsRZ-KHe6aGvRn-LG_addOLlE-TJYxiQpE0byd4eRBjOJKdjuNzKCmoby09oF5ZNA5QNV2YT-a22Ka5FeqljlQVPT9VXitkQ-TCLGTWaqo6FVJ8chRnjh98qh47OY0rktAv3ur7z6uo74HHZwWk_Uwu_gfqsqaA1sVAvhkdDtQtiZeHkRCTJQbhr6bfWI/s320/20230804_181443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Alla fine riusciamo a raggiungere la strada e da qui ci buttiamo nei vialoni folli di traffico del centro del distretto federale. Faccio strada a sentimento, perchè il gps fatica a orientarsi tra sopraelevate, svincoli con ottocento corsie e viuzze nascoste tra i palazzoni. Oltre alle auto, ai bus e alle moto, che si muovono in maniera incontrollata, ma piano, perchè l'ingorgo è totale, abbiamo anche l'ostacolo dei mercati che invadono le strade e rendono quasi impossibile il transito. Oltretutto, nelle vie ristrette al limite dalle bancarelle e dai venditori, ci sono ragazzini che giocano a calcio, meccanici che riparano motori e pickup in carico e scarico merci FERMI IN MEZZO agli unici minuscoli varchi. Sta diventando buio, tira un'aria poco da gringos e noi siamo bloccati in questa situazione! Che ansiella.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuih2kVQj2ZFltp08lvZA8hnQuDPMDRnrKOR1frtmu_FUw5ln-6IFYoraauMgHJmTvWY5zDzpzaNEZEZBAmHcyE9uJhYGXtWa-5AhcMdska45wFPCrG4Y9spw9pIseF6T17ZfbsyBG9omatoCMoqKs8NgVtKCw2F7PLefki30FMfIv4tkHxT2KaPELI8/s1209/20230804_184225.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuih2kVQj2ZFltp08lvZA8hnQuDPMDRnrKOR1frtmu_FUw5ln-6IFYoraauMgHJmTvWY5zDzpzaNEZEZBAmHcyE9uJhYGXtWa-5AhcMdska45wFPCrG4Y9spw9pIseF6T17ZfbsyBG9omatoCMoqKs8NgVtKCw2F7PLefki30FMfIv4tkHxT2KaPELI8/s320/20230804_184225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dXcPICYuk-_4gT9_wgf-Yurj5tqsGDppqWEep5IcFKbQGvfp88YL2-xhNsutV2W1htiVQgySYvc6D4kP9l23pf3tkH200EGiD02wck6jSEa8UElQuadj6EyQsy9MExSgWH8Opexs-fx6T860CaGtS3WCsujROqGPgyY-QMI6nBZGk6MWZR8jUGGwU-o/s1209/20230804_185014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dXcPICYuk-_4gT9_wgf-Yurj5tqsGDppqWEep5IcFKbQGvfp88YL2-xhNsutV2W1htiVQgySYvc6D4kP9l23pf3tkH200EGiD02wck6jSEa8UElQuadj6EyQsy9MExSgWH8Opexs-fx6T860CaGtS3WCsujROqGPgyY-QMI6nBZGk6MWZR8jUGGwU-o/s320/20230804_185014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qii61yvF2V-lrMu-yhm717W_Qz9RyiqERmti-VgepPN2dCTyzMDavuNV92JaUekewgUNvdSfk4x5zuh3L6A4ACV8Phl6LfcwpSeHKFzVEy4b2Xw9bgW--eSL_SBSlSxXN9LrEkeYYIlZ95qBxkDLvgumQadxWZR-0cd3Nd374_BdeTuGUD21gCLfZxo/s1209/20230804_185017.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qii61yvF2V-lrMu-yhm717W_Qz9RyiqERmti-VgepPN2dCTyzMDavuNV92JaUekewgUNvdSfk4x5zuh3L6A4ACV8Phl6LfcwpSeHKFzVEy4b2Xw9bgW--eSL_SBSlSxXN9LrEkeYYIlZ95qBxkDLvgumQadxWZR-0cd3Nd374_BdeTuGUD21gCLfZxo/s320/20230804_185017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Anche stavolta, in qualche maniera, sgranando rosari, ne usciamo. Gli ultimi vialoni hanno delle presunte ciclabili, e ne approfittiamo per correre al nostro ostello, il Regina, nell'omonima via pedonale nota per i suoi artisti e per i locali. La struttura è a dir poco fantastica, ogni metro è decorato e pulsa di vita. Ci sono persone da tutto il mondo, ma soprattutto local che vengono qui a cenare, a bere, a ballare in terrazza. C'è musica che non disturba ma ravviva e l'arte permea ogni angolo. Per di più il ragazzo che ci fa il check in dice di essere un ex ciclista professionista, campione nazionale su strada, ed è tutto emozionato e preso bene nel vederci. Dice che vorrebbe pedalare con noi nei prossimi giorni... Magari si va insieme a scalare il Paso de Cortes! Grande Pedro, così si chiama. Questo è lo spirito che ci piace, quello bike friendly.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh3Padal4zUT3rNk9wBMDSTE_12lXJZuDXc7IXG8FNXB_-SgWQjBcuBWiqVdxr-oSZGciFK0O2gy077_xGVe0PLWZLUZ4eCUivULVC-LfbwZI8Mwz_Wf36daN71KEKXYGns1nVbad55KLD0mpAmk5pzMmeWbwWHCYgIYcYn-ry4enL4WGlngR9U5pfNY4/s1209/20230804_185709.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh3Padal4zUT3rNk9wBMDSTE_12lXJZuDXc7IXG8FNXB_-SgWQjBcuBWiqVdxr-oSZGciFK0O2gy077_xGVe0PLWZLUZ4eCUivULVC-LfbwZI8Mwz_Wf36daN71KEKXYGns1nVbad55KLD0mpAmk5pzMmeWbwWHCYgIYcYn-ry4enL4WGlngR9U5pfNY4/s320/20230804_185709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjNuas2bl4g6prE_nh-6GSOWWpFNpiPOwR-XRKW-5rBxp9ks1iAZ47mNta_8MTwFWCdegJYp2kJn6WysOCPqUvIrXUB0z20bbgnvHZ-ZKjNl-EwdQ64FQAOosh1HkcvaISAKi2DgGda7SjFX4msMYJDAGynGbUDqUW2gAz2WOQ4AEga-XlqtGZbupARo/s1209/20230804_185721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjNuas2bl4g6prE_nh-6GSOWWpFNpiPOwR-XRKW-5rBxp9ks1iAZ47mNta_8MTwFWCdegJYp2kJn6WysOCPqUvIrXUB0z20bbgnvHZ-ZKjNl-EwdQ64FQAOosh1HkcvaISAKi2DgGda7SjFX4msMYJDAGynGbUDqUW2gAz2WOQ4AEga-XlqtGZbupARo/s320/20230804_185721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8FCs_rLS8gRs0uzseCPKRBCQlDsPpcRTsW0tPRaaH8VlQT-G1f5IGSAltT6jyJ0qH3eQnJCzDGObviPvX5zL4QwOHUC4kifjVnUGVVSKBtIGeBLKRZrXrSHsP5lG-7QlBIOT5LKbQ64GYrfISiAejMjOovv30LmlQbBixVhsyZZi_JOkJTcm36QkQZg/s1209/20230804_190629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP8FCs_rLS8gRs0uzseCPKRBCQlDsPpcRTsW0tPRaaH8VlQT-G1f5IGSAltT6jyJ0qH3eQnJCzDGObviPvX5zL4QwOHUC4kifjVnUGVVSKBtIGeBLKRZrXrSHsP5lG-7QlBIOT5LKbQ64GYrfISiAejMjOovv30LmlQbBixVhsyZZi_JOkJTcm36QkQZg/s320/20230804_190629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitd6r-x-FgRiy4_IL3JSTru3pxaUJiPPGl2HM9u41KWRBlKw_TTebzFdsNW2Jmm_vrcLr7nNmTkAUdB2CyweVIwLAk7aCLsO7ip4v4JY15rTCciqmsahv_y4VExR-Sey2idiZe7QJuamv5MbeO78nnmlSicetZ7m-zbOCmNyQjNLfMd9b7-JPl03b0vQE/s1209/20230804_190634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitd6r-x-FgRiy4_IL3JSTru3pxaUJiPPGl2HM9u41KWRBlKw_TTebzFdsNW2Jmm_vrcLr7nNmTkAUdB2CyweVIwLAk7aCLsO7ip4v4JY15rTCciqmsahv_y4VExR-Sey2idiZe7QJuamv5MbeO78nnmlSicetZ7m-zbOCmNyQjNLfMd9b7-JPl03b0vQE/s320/20230804_190634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimDxsEMfwQjipqMogQEtTxsjoiHXPZZWoWopIqV8aq_2fWmS23DKWQzID5Hyi9pPhjrXIRTUsq_Sj7NH2STrOyncA918GtwUMZUtZisMh0WaFeFFzCFkgm-hQhdOIU-QiRszwc-t4Q_IdzdHyM_-ajtpA7UJt7g2F98GMIgDbdBIOOhtKD7cA2FUyP4Kw/s1209/20230804_193928.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimDxsEMfwQjipqMogQEtTxsjoiHXPZZWoWopIqV8aq_2fWmS23DKWQzID5Hyi9pPhjrXIRTUsq_Sj7NH2STrOyncA918GtwUMZUtZisMh0WaFeFFzCFkgm-hQhdOIU-QiRszwc-t4Q_IdzdHyM_-ajtpA7UJt7g2F98GMIgDbdBIOOhtKD7cA2FUyP4Kw/s320/20230804_193928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNEuEuq8dwLiJuiJkqjp0_-oNT8wGmIKzcgQtAZ7ecebum-JD3zpKaNLhmMHx0TZL4EtlLubfD2r6fU7v5MF--ZEFoyLOpOPLFndNORwd3WHuuPMxy6u77xb4xpvozCczxr2qxn00fZ4juo86pVMK1VMJVapjce1_205rLcLgQUxtSg5s_7a7rI2-kKac/s1209/20230804_200349.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNEuEuq8dwLiJuiJkqjp0_-oNT8wGmIKzcgQtAZ7ecebum-JD3zpKaNLhmMHx0TZL4EtlLubfD2r6fU7v5MF--ZEFoyLOpOPLFndNORwd3WHuuPMxy6u77xb4xpvozCczxr2qxn00fZ4juo86pVMK1VMJVapjce1_205rLcLgQUxtSg5s_7a7rI2-kKac/s320/20230804_200349.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlGb-aGYI3vErc5DfGgTkDFgFXBfOkQKUrIuxHrVOuS7uFq1xuLfMP-t0uP1t7B48cpoFOwIlHr-jqOSiRpgcfs4PiHcvTLPXfHclSA6jdnyW7Sw13yNicBmVv3otDKv7k05yHmnUI-OchSti9yrEXb0SrqDssLQ_UvyHFAd_pEihyEf_LtWqYW0bs27c/s320/20230804_200832.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhguA1wf70Z5KLcVVMv4J_9t_IhGv0y6TCkNFHHFaT-CIUFJOR-GXMOV7CY6Ffv6S1yVt34Aun0_1GIRtvjrM8_Nlp1wDpsO7mEStu64TBbHdUlSIUJZsQaMJZOH7cCvhN5Zecu6GYcrusWtjqMEMixqjt2O4crTeh05aTHA3_i2n_R-cADUyGtWHp6AJY/s1209/20230804_200912.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhguA1wf70Z5KLcVVMv4J_9t_IhGv0y6TCkNFHHFaT-CIUFJOR-GXMOV7CY6Ffv6S1yVt34Aun0_1GIRtvjrM8_Nlp1wDpsO7mEStu64TBbHdUlSIUJZsQaMJZOH7cCvhN5Zecu6GYcrusWtjqMEMixqjt2O4crTeh05aTHA3_i2n_R-cADUyGtWHp6AJY/s320/20230804_200912.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpzbVR-5ozr2gl6ZkHCWC4oqFUALo70vnAiKbZZlkn6HY12iO_XJuUoNAgheCbc1Se6evoewkRC49kLN0W66ou8Dm2KulY1le3EPtIGdFuyGfXf9wZdditTS_8yo631Xgfncc_dHMRS92y_dUBGFQHkdSekq64tBG1VIvuA-_kg1-wYeE0keRpHPlSywc/s1209/20230804_200939.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpzbVR-5ozr2gl6ZkHCWC4oqFUALo70vnAiKbZZlkn6HY12iO_XJuUoNAgheCbc1Se6evoewkRC49kLN0W66ou8Dm2KulY1le3EPtIGdFuyGfXf9wZdditTS_8yo631Xgfncc_dHMRS92y_dUBGFQHkdSekq64tBG1VIvuA-_kg1-wYeE0keRpHPlSywc/s320/20230804_200939.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjHrGkRwCnvoR1tva8MpYnezWaWq0WkOwikEIeXGEjXZ0T8rbsBnWCoRlju0UiGRFoxf-qdDgF4LDL0qfQ9vkIvT7XFCkykTpFbvd9HcQZ0HTW4v4FpBaRRg-hXXFdH3EWre4mZuqeLuiHp0ICsPRBhIZRQ1M600s1Mck4ZBc-FpzQzidd8nWt6sGHqY/s1209/20230804_202129.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjHrGkRwCnvoR1tva8MpYnezWaWq0WkOwikEIeXGEjXZ0T8rbsBnWCoRlju0UiGRFoxf-qdDgF4LDL0qfQ9vkIvT7XFCkykTpFbvd9HcQZ0HTW4v4FpBaRRg-hXXFdH3EWre4mZuqeLuiHp0ICsPRBhIZRQ1M600s1Mck4ZBc-FpzQzidd8nWt6sGHqY/s320/20230804_202129.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver preso possesso della nostra cameretta con bagno e balconcino, a doccia fatta, approfittiamo del ristorante interno per cenare. Ed è buonissimo pure quello! Con la struttura, a questo giro, abbiamo vinto alla lotteria. Domani andremo alla scoperta del centro e dei dintorni, a piedi, nel cuore della città che già da qui si sente battere forte. Ma forse è il mio, di cuore, che trabocca di gioia.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>5/8</div><div>Città del Messico</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oggi è il gran giorno, il primo di vera e propria esplorazione della capitale messicana. Faccio una premessa: non sarò esaustiva dal punto di vista storico, perchè non è questa la sede per tracciare un dettagliato profilo del passato antico e recente di una metropoli che ha migliaia di anni di storia, complessa, stratificata, immensa come la sua estensione. Non troverete qui la "guida definitiva per Città del Messico", come titolano certi blogger che a malapena hanno visitato i tre punti più turistici di un paese. Non voglio peccare di hybris, di tracotanza, e so di non sapere niente, socraticamente. E' la prima volta che visito questo luogo che è un cosmo multiforme, e ci sto entrando in punta di piedi, come è costume delle volpi, in una postura che è di ascolto, prima ancora che di discussione e restituzione. Ho letto molto, in questi giorni, in merito al Distretto Federale. Per capire ciò che andrò a descrivere è necessario avere un minimo di contesto storico, che cerco di dare ora qui per punti, in massima sintesi. Mi perdoneranno gli esperti, ma non voglio tediare oltremodo i famosi venticinque lettori.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Qui un tempo c'era il lago di Texcoco, abitato, lungo le sponde e sulle isole, da comunità native che creavano un mosaico di culture e lingue differenti.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Intorno al 200 a.C. questi villaggi agricoli si unirono in una sorta di federazione, il più grande dei quali, Cuicuilco, fu distrutto tre secoli dopo da un'eruzione vulcanica.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- A 40km di distanza fiorì la civiltà multietnica di Teotihuacan, grazie ai progressi nelle tecnologie di irrigazione e all'economia fondata sulla coltivazione del mais; questa divenne capitale di un impero immenso, che si estendeva fino al Guatemala odierno, ma nell'VIII secolo, non essendo più in grado di sfamare la sua popolazione, cadde in preda a divisioni interne che portarono alla sua decadenza e all'abbandono.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- il potere risultò poi suddiviso tra diverse città egemoni a livello locale, come Xochicalco e Tula, dove nacque la civiltà dei toltechi (artefici), visti dagli aztechi come venerabili predecessori.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Nel XIII giunsero gli aztechi, o mexica, che affermavano di venire dalla mitica regione nordoccidentale di Aztlan. Erano nomadi e guerrieri, e si offrirono come mercenari dei tepanecas, popolo stanziato sulle rive del lago, in cambio della possibilità di stanziarsi in zona.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Nel 1325 gli aztechi raggiunsero un'isola dove videro, secondo la leggenda, un'aquila appollaiata su un cactus che si pappava un serpente. Questo buon presagio fu colto per costruire lì la capitale azteca, Tenochtitlan, dove oggi si trova Città del Messico.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- In breve questa città stato divenne centro di un impero immenso, che occupava l'odierno Messico e non solo. I territori sottomessi pagavano tributi, i commerci erano fiorenti. Tenochtitlan crebbe e divenne ricca e sofisticata, abbellita di templi ed edifici cerimoniali. Era una città sull'acqua, con canali come strade, coltivazioni su giardini pensili e vie rialzate.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Nel 1519 arrivarono gli spagnoli e trovarono una metropoli abitata da 300.000 persone e una valle con un milione e mezzo di abitanti Di questo milione e mezzo, un secolo dopo, ne restavano 100.000, sterminati da guerra, miseria e soprattutto malattie.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- I conquistadores smantellarono sistematicamente Tenochtitlan pietra a pietra, per ricostruirla da nuovo. Cortes sperava che questa sostituzione gli consentisse di continuare a esigere tributi dai territori vassalli.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- La capitale della Nuova Spagna crebbe e le opere di costruzione proseguirono fino al XVII secolo, ma poi iniziò a sprofondare nel fondo fangoso del lago. La distruzione dei canali aztechi causò continue inondazioni e le violenti piogge del 1629 lasciarono la città sommersa per 5 anni.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Nel XVIII secolo le cose migliorarono: rete fognaria, raccolta di rifiuti, nuove vie e piazze. Iniziò l'epoca d'oro di Città del Messico.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Dopo la guerra di indipendenza, sotto la presidenza di Juarez, monasteri e chiese divennero proprietà del governo, furono spartiti, venduti e destinati ad altri usi. Massimiliano I d'Asburgo fece costruire l'attuale Paseo de la reforma. Porfirio Diaz (ininterrottamente al potere dal 1876 al 1911) diede impulso al settore edilizio, guardando a Parigi e ai suoi palazzi, mentre gli abitanti più facoltosi lasciavano il centro per trasferirsi nei nuovi quartieri occidentali.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Il periodo della Rivoluzione portò guerra, fame e malattie, ma dopo la Grande depressione ci fu un forte impulso all'industrializzazione, che attirò immigrazione e investimenti.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- La crescita esponenziale avvenne negli anni '70, quando masse di poveri dalle zone rurali si trasferirono qui in cerca di lavoro nelle industrie. In pochi anni la popolazione passò da 8.5 a 14.5 milioni di abitanti. Le strutture, fisiche e sociali, non erano sufficienti quindi nacquero i noti problemi di traffico, inquinamento, criminalità.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Nelle vicende politiche degli ultimi anni non mi addentro.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">- Il 19 settembre 2017 un devastante terremoto ha colpito la città.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Questo è il quadro in brevissimo. Ciò detto, in questa capitale si potrebbero trascorrere mesi visitando ogni giorno un nuovo museo, un diverso spazio culturale, un altro parco. Noi abbiamo una manciata di giorni di dedicare alle principali attrazioni, quindi abbiamo dovuto sfrondare quasi tutto e ridurre all'osso i punti di interesse.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Partiamo dall'Hostal Regina, che è strepitoso anche di giorno e ci offre una ricca colazione inclusa nel prezzo.</div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxE5LrAfxVT46Z3IH5NnTE3bUroRzn9-Srkr29kC5pDdcBS6ZoZa9KqCSyCOnwPJsxnCBrQLJ-OLGT4r3s6ozdYVnhRkpAYJ_9M5a6zmlyMey2ttQYiupxrgyXzSzB4HWnSwlsyIJCQw_dNRo3RyH6Gpw3SDIBABlTmQJJlK6431vFfyHoa3E90hWsjU/s979/20230805_085942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxE5LrAfxVT46Z3IH5NnTE3bUroRzn9-Srkr29kC5pDdcBS6ZoZa9KqCSyCOnwPJsxnCBrQLJ-OLGT4r3s6ozdYVnhRkpAYJ_9M5a6zmlyMey2ttQYiupxrgyXzSzB4HWnSwlsyIJCQw_dNRo3RyH6Gpw3SDIBABlTmQJJlK6431vFfyHoa3E90hWsjU/s320/20230805_085942.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGowlfcGJnVkeCBMGQZxXO8C-jQEUzZSlbiYhMiy6qUSk7y15MjYJTJovCxMbYwHc7MskkhYD16SSfEZpV6x-q7AEYezRWHCp-pcudwKRefPSSGvtXnw9wf1vHKQD94m8mZS0dxWtdnged-xinrFTyO9R6T5MTv1vppqwSwnhoonZWRXyNWCFECfpde4/s1209/20230805_085959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGowlfcGJnVkeCBMGQZxXO8C-jQEUzZSlbiYhMiy6qUSk7y15MjYJTJovCxMbYwHc7MskkhYD16SSfEZpV6x-q7AEYezRWHCp-pcudwKRefPSSGvtXnw9wf1vHKQD94m8mZS0dxWtdnged-xinrFTyO9R6T5MTv1vppqwSwnhoonZWRXyNWCFECfpde4/s320/20230805_085959.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi usciamo in strada, diretti allo zocalo, la piazza centrale. Si trova a pochi minuti a piedi dall'ostello, che è nel centro storico, mosaico di palazzi coloniali, chiese e monumenti, nonchè patrimonio UNESCO. L'atmosfera è vivace ma rilassata, c'è tanta gente già che affolla le strade, tra chi lavora e chi si gode una passeggiata.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdRhq7yk35zVZTzqdNlaSwROPajZXuB_saavNhH36aVfydp5CH6Ibbthfi3Hh46UU9wNED1cTTtxV1pxOsT_OKue66MTSvMux3tMzcrus9kHi1w4rurw1yBXCoh9x8BJPPrVgqOZ7FfEXt_BlRGMPzIpiidjKzVEcKHUxiqRJREJbPmqX8A_M63nxDs2A/s979/20230805_093403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdRhq7yk35zVZTzqdNlaSwROPajZXuB_saavNhH36aVfydp5CH6Ibbthfi3Hh46UU9wNED1cTTtxV1pxOsT_OKue66MTSvMux3tMzcrus9kHi1w4rurw1yBXCoh9x8BJPPrVgqOZ7FfEXt_BlRGMPzIpiidjKzVEcKHUxiqRJREJbPmqX8A_M63nxDs2A/s320/20230805_093403.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFmfzyT8ZqSi380kS3mQvuv3seAGf-n--3w4Q53ZRkYwtBX3xa4-EdvC2GDH3dUWfQzBAds91OH9Y8WDZr6si06U1_e1whOLfOOYDGXDqgDF11DrVpxwLV2HWRTYQYifhtAwPy1ac43cbrDMSA87PzaVkqJb4ddXpKX17V7zutH43Tmg_oKUXKwbX1RUs/s1209/20230805_093551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFmfzyT8ZqSi380kS3mQvuv3seAGf-n--3w4Q53ZRkYwtBX3xa4-EdvC2GDH3dUWfQzBAds91OH9Y8WDZr6si06U1_e1whOLfOOYDGXDqgDF11DrVpxwLV2HWRTYQYifhtAwPy1ac43cbrDMSA87PzaVkqJb4ddXpKX17V7zutH43Tmg_oKUXKwbX1RUs/s320/20230805_093551.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Zocalo, il cuore pulsante della città, significa basamento. La piazza prese questo nome dal XIX secolo, quando qui fu iniziato un monumento all'indipendenza mai finito, di cui rimase solo il basamento. Con i suoi 220x240m è una delle piazze più grandi al mondo. Su un lato si trova il teocalli, il centro cerimoniale azteco. Nel 1520 Cortes lo fece smantellare e usò le pietre per lastricare la piazza. Poi divenne sede di mercato, sgomberato per costruire il sopracitato monumento mai compiuto.</div><div><br /></div><div>Sulla piazza si affacciano la residenza del presidente messicano, il Palacio Nacional, che custodisce alcuni murale di Diego Rivera; uffici amministrativi comunali, la cattedrale e una galleria con gioiellerie e alberghi di lusso. Al centro svetta una bandiera messicana immensa che viene issata e ammainata ogni giorno con cerimonia solenne dai soldati dell'esercito.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiMmo-OvUS4THr0Qfhbo0pkxkcaqCN5HQVgILGUzQLRaMCDqmHyhekqpb47yy274UBr6Bc6PLnH86F2YmDLAQB5VnV5DIfenPL9DSnuZTJ8GTtGtlHQtuweVTJR1kp_s613QbOhTRgyGDt90pMXkDfP9UZ4X8Px9bwoEFXmVr_lqWK-IFHpf1s-X18_w/s979/20230805_093557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiMmo-OvUS4THr0Qfhbo0pkxkcaqCN5HQVgILGUzQLRaMCDqmHyhekqpb47yy274UBr6Bc6PLnH86F2YmDLAQB5VnV5DIfenPL9DSnuZTJ8GTtGtlHQtuweVTJR1kp_s613QbOhTRgyGDt90pMXkDfP9UZ4X8Px9bwoEFXmVr_lqWK-IFHpf1s-X18_w/s320/20230805_093557.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADWvYwvCug2qpridz3-qqMakVDnyVtxRK44CVDZQqfKbxmnrs2scshMEqVi3iDe7zI0ucxhQShZm2UW4zFBY1fGIG6R-wn8wUYVDiut4jW5uHaI0ckm9EyvmPHQHS46ptweL85Czkim52q25usimPBWU1Y9atqtoq1Vs8qxQ8QNiGsVfMZ0XHryV54DI/s1209/20230805_094120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhADWvYwvCug2qpridz3-qqMakVDnyVtxRK44CVDZQqfKbxmnrs2scshMEqVi3iDe7zI0ucxhQShZm2UW4zFBY1fGIG6R-wn8wUYVDiut4jW5uHaI0ckm9EyvmPHQHS46ptweL85Czkim52q25usimPBWU1Y9atqtoq1Vs8qxQ8QNiGsVfMZ0XHryV54DI/s320/20230805_094120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noi troviamo lo zocalo blindato da transenne e sorvegliato da decine di policia. Sta aprendo un gigantesco mercato artigianale, che è la Fiesta de las culturas indigenas. Infatti si vedono famiglie in abiti tradizionali convergere qui da ogni strada e uscita della metro.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3BUpFiGOhXIyczu0wpTKbE469Cd9vQ4uiUwf602J-Ry_kj-IWc4eU4bnQTLRwni5oo1YJT7w1e3HJTWMRajjnqu0wiVELa_DYBe4PLRXLY0kfUOc6blX6ThJjxjsCa-P66W7LKtvh7Zm2CRQH3hVMyjvKKGo4LvOVERuOrhU_BgtyhPzq024tXRyJXk/s1209/20230805_094134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3BUpFiGOhXIyczu0wpTKbE469Cd9vQ4uiUwf602J-Ry_kj-IWc4eU4bnQTLRwni5oo1YJT7w1e3HJTWMRajjnqu0wiVELa_DYBe4PLRXLY0kfUOc6blX6ThJjxjsCa-P66W7LKtvh7Zm2CRQH3hVMyjvKKGo4LvOVERuOrhU_BgtyhPzq024tXRyJXk/s320/20230805_094134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikW6TEy66vbNi0UPBCcoBpjP9UHOOEl0qFQnlJVbrBmFpArMxyDssYl7IYJbRSlOgSylyifYDo5F6JFtUyBOAGGLeWHseSLbSYSLt5z7rxesPSoSXpCRe9VFcAb0GqBp5NM79O80CUT8XW8dzztGGki43ssBkOu3q5vOP-J_axDkCb7jc9bu6tUhCzblk/s1209/20230805_094317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikW6TEy66vbNi0UPBCcoBpjP9UHOOEl0qFQnlJVbrBmFpArMxyDssYl7IYJbRSlOgSylyifYDo5F6JFtUyBOAGGLeWHseSLbSYSLt5z7rxesPSoSXpCRe9VFcAb0GqBp5NM79O80CUT8XW8dzztGGki43ssBkOu3q5vOP-J_axDkCb7jc9bu6tUhCzblk/s320/20230805_094317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcAPrpHn3n8MBT4iLG5z4qNtD20JYaGLgb4ey7nA9Fgg8Hvasn8hNP4sv1DlTk7EfYd5r5kTIckyPwRaz9rgt1-GhPti52u_zmxJczL_lS4Eddb-b6ydvmxr-c637PkOs6P1WUgom341oIpaOhcSX0JrHW-FFIp4k_9MNU5QO26qD3h4Gd414Oa7maVY/s1209/20230805_094334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcAPrpHn3n8MBT4iLG5z4qNtD20JYaGLgb4ey7nA9Fgg8Hvasn8hNP4sv1DlTk7EfYd5r5kTIckyPwRaz9rgt1-GhPti52u_zmxJczL_lS4Eddb-b6ydvmxr-c637PkOs6P1WUgom341oIpaOhcSX0JrHW-FFIp4k_9MNU5QO26qD3h4Gd414Oa7maVY/s320/20230805_094334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3bzck7Cr_ZWVpaQsvqqJ4VWATe062Btp8VepdUSduUIFiM0ErzikwBCF6XNZKVhXIrMv9eKll6wH14jo-ZQpm_tT0uVVmm_Wx4T3uJusOhqqLi4rItJrD5aDbrriVuYwR-zHObvMlFVXjbPissdspNQIV-Q-fd4CRSjkQeWXg44QXh5mHKXX4KvpELU/s1209/20230805_094339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn3bzck7Cr_ZWVpaQsvqqJ4VWATe062Btp8VepdUSduUIFiM0ErzikwBCF6XNZKVhXIrMv9eKll6wH14jo-ZQpm_tT0uVVmm_Wx4T3uJusOhqqLi4rItJrD5aDbrriVuYwR-zHObvMlFVXjbPissdspNQIV-Q-fd4CRSjkQeWXg44QXh5mHKXX4KvpELU/s320/20230805_094339.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCbLpqV4mK8f4KLss-eE6tB55Ftqh7xqaoIxoO4pRwflS8goAp4WW3sWReIyizVBjg1zdEngHw0SgQ2Ei0nfnrlCPl6morTfvfg9u5o1iFZeMgf1L__TGxjJFb7Cwxe_-_fuY9vElKpAT6OlHWRDu5wvLxQtL8qi5W4b3y8K9GkIOKWUjn-y4xzAiQTzg/s1209/20230805_094358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCbLpqV4mK8f4KLss-eE6tB55Ftqh7xqaoIxoO4pRwflS8goAp4WW3sWReIyizVBjg1zdEngHw0SgQ2Ei0nfnrlCPl6morTfvfg9u5o1iFZeMgf1L__TGxjJFb7Cwxe_-_fuY9vElKpAT6OlHWRDu5wvLxQtL8qi5W4b3y8K9GkIOKWUjn-y4xzAiQTzg/s320/20230805_094358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhegJwYkXsbFjpfzUsoP7nW9fVeMxDtxvrqLPLn2EXPUT3ZdfI7wYIx6eybYhC7QSHLc3wPTCEP_UKWIzjTGaLl4ot7n2ohYx3bvSVv6kH6pV8JJO5oNleRHX-CI7yTTJO53YHxQO2yvBP36FFieVj9G4MJNUU9sWkre4yDEhBcKvdOgvSPjczb3Fzotc/s1209/20230805_094501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhegJwYkXsbFjpfzUsoP7nW9fVeMxDtxvrqLPLn2EXPUT3ZdfI7wYIx6eybYhC7QSHLc3wPTCEP_UKWIzjTGaLl4ot7n2ohYx3bvSVv6kH6pV8JJO5oNleRHX-CI7yTTJO53YHxQO2yvBP36FFieVj9G4MJNUU9sWkre4yDEhBcKvdOgvSPjczb3Fzotc/s320/20230805_094501.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyhhJjSXBKG4mKAxcRKq9YmG9xsVimwCfJPqC-igmluUWLAhuI14Wn3C__FdCkv72EOOa9uy4vnmG0otiEbAeIPNNTfCXczFfkPGDbr_4MchICFkoMzqDQpuCD0-HSK7GmcyxW1aQlhWIo2OhEHOIBIGoZ-kqqL77n0rq3icncN-s0s7YL4yEKuaxKTAI/s1209/20230805_094725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyhhJjSXBKG4mKAxcRKq9YmG9xsVimwCfJPqC-igmluUWLAhuI14Wn3C__FdCkv72EOOa9uy4vnmG0otiEbAeIPNNTfCXczFfkPGDbr_4MchICFkoMzqDQpuCD0-HSK7GmcyxW1aQlhWIo2OhEHOIBIGoZ-kqqL77n0rq3icncN-s0s7YL4yEKuaxKTAI/s320/20230805_094725.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj_kGUKTAMmK2LsXfaOtDYNkDjwO-fh8spbXHY6A_IQ6T55ph-B65cNYqOrfmoKNy7b7GxsN-w5JIGMHh-Ho8VJZ4jYnPQwEXUkbHt06CY9gkx7u3hZPB4-KSsiE3iJr4hGsrQ0U5B3qFp7bgD1CKiURqq8cV9WKZnI2pownG5-AG_jZBz7oiqcNoKJ48/s1209/20230805_094749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj_kGUKTAMmK2LsXfaOtDYNkDjwO-fh8spbXHY6A_IQ6T55ph-B65cNYqOrfmoKNy7b7GxsN-w5JIGMHh-Ho8VJZ4jYnPQwEXUkbHt06CY9gkx7u3hZPB4-KSsiE3iJr4hGsrQ0U5B3qFp7bgD1CKiURqq8cV9WKZnI2pownG5-AG_jZBz7oiqcNoKJ48/s320/20230805_094749.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZljv_08HlTxL_7SE43c2LO3itwtLnM_cEFeLQPnk1c0HbY4-znb9pYPJbPZZPuUebLxTG-A56T9AH7s_Ocxv8G5Zn0fS7qAR3PDVgFlDZyNTPXFDsLOhGAGdacApXR9pl7uvrCaGwYJwe9MAVMZfuDfX7XciOACuZMRRxzaDYvSyOVftz2oAEsslLhw/s1209/20230805_094922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZljv_08HlTxL_7SE43c2LO3itwtLnM_cEFeLQPnk1c0HbY4-znb9pYPJbPZZPuUebLxTG-A56T9AH7s_Ocxv8G5Zn0fS7qAR3PDVgFlDZyNTPXFDsLOhGAGdacApXR9pl7uvrCaGwYJwe9MAVMZfuDfX7XciOACuZMRRxzaDYvSyOVftz2oAEsslLhw/s320/20230805_094922.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ci dirigiamo, dove aver percorso gli altri lati della piazza, alla Cattedrale metropolitana, monumentale edificio iniziato nel 1553 e rimasto in costruzione per tutto il periodo coloniale, cosa che spiega l'incredibile commistione di stili.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDEhyDfxS4gu_up-RD5qcy4bqxD3auYAiaCkuKcOcyctDE4q-d-UGV9ekJtBmJ4T4mXmoKZkPcdmFnlKvZ0XJYA_bm5Ba1iNTPimhQ7ciFieYKe16rrMt19xNJ-j25ucFpRGolSckvLAFhD5bjToA3WtCPHKInjkbQq7KUVB27vcPEVGn4q3PkCQ3IM4/s1209/20230805_095450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDEhyDfxS4gu_up-RD5qcy4bqxD3auYAiaCkuKcOcyctDE4q-d-UGV9ekJtBmJ4T4mXmoKZkPcdmFnlKvZ0XJYA_bm5Ba1iNTPimhQ7ciFieYKe16rrMt19xNJ-j25ucFpRGolSckvLAFhD5bjToA3WtCPHKInjkbQq7KUVB27vcPEVGn4q3PkCQ3IM4/s320/20230805_095450.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lustrascarpe</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaoXk0_whsJE_2z0JIwXMzIL3o_ZUsHCikyvKTDxaVq5Z95yRiEZcdgZ9XMm85dg5IE7X2osrRCSXhYjYXLNsicAboV20oQeAgus317t76HLm-l4lYW6y4NBsnLJ1vZHnwcqlz5Hy-PeasbUwFzRGb3VSnrFqqt4nIcmQ09jwW9EV_w-hPXzQsclQkJd0/s1209/20230805_095706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaoXk0_whsJE_2z0JIwXMzIL3o_ZUsHCikyvKTDxaVq5Z95yRiEZcdgZ9XMm85dg5IE7X2osrRCSXhYjYXLNsicAboV20oQeAgus317t76HLm-l4lYW6y4NBsnLJ1vZHnwcqlz5Hy-PeasbUwFzRGb3VSnrFqqt4nIcmQ09jwW9EV_w-hPXzQsclQkJd0/s320/20230805_095706.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzRrlqy7Uk3wj8vRLcaGtEGOWPQOZH85n7LiUmk3b31-misrj7iEaVwRUTMSAq12SC3Dj4bvnkrRLvBy1IMA36s1t4EMfuYxSPX9Xq_I4XSSJs0IQFEYqLicPwX2qXZqeAQC_oCwYblVB16HkX1aY7v8GAWRtXIAruGo1XZb8zL6I0vfcq5s170I3-nLM/s1209/20230805_095743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzRrlqy7Uk3wj8vRLcaGtEGOWPQOZH85n7LiUmk3b31-misrj7iEaVwRUTMSAq12SC3Dj4bvnkrRLvBy1IMA36s1t4EMfuYxSPX9Xq_I4XSSJs0IQFEYqLicPwX2qXZqeAQC_oCwYblVB16HkX1aY7v8GAWRtXIAruGo1XZb8zL6I0vfcq5s170I3-nLM/s320/20230805_095743.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDAUbh49ek1_GO6Fc3axus9N4VU8TZLrkn2gZiePk9Dj4jCrmSjC9a8Vt0P-Wc5XABOT7S8jNhBEDdhy4HnMPPJTNSiTm4stRPr8lOgwWPL2kx-V8OSMT04yaxgQb2Pb9GiZWboIduhS47UAVYQ_18F_ELZ6Ws2ZWFF823lHyKB8oRidU4FCUW23F2Ok/s1209/20230805_095915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDAUbh49ek1_GO6Fc3axus9N4VU8TZLrkn2gZiePk9Dj4jCrmSjC9a8Vt0P-Wc5XABOT7S8jNhBEDdhy4HnMPPJTNSiTm4stRPr8lOgwWPL2kx-V8OSMT04yaxgQb2Pb9GiZWboIduhS47UAVYQ_18F_ELZ6Ws2ZWFF823lHyKB8oRidU4FCUW23F2Ok/s320/20230805_095915.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">venditori di cose</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlCdSG5WCw0c2y1yYgZ_fcupeNWSCUoSoo6cYfm3b0IIxTP7OV86AXMYPET4o3xWPFNAZSexXPzMREWNNSUzMuND0pEwMz1wXOkKqPkDCESk22OisFAliqFXUhdxeKVaIPrKHtgGePrSvvQIjx3s8cuzGSr-Kttzw2hS9ybr8xUmNztzA6ozXSvdITIE/s1209/20230805_095940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlCdSG5WCw0c2y1yYgZ_fcupeNWSCUoSoo6cYfm3b0IIxTP7OV86AXMYPET4o3xWPFNAZSexXPzMREWNNSUzMuND0pEwMz1wXOkKqPkDCESk22OisFAliqFXUhdxeKVaIPrKHtgGePrSvvQIjx3s8cuzGSr-Kttzw2hS9ybr8xUmNztzA6ozXSvdITIE/s320/20230805_095940.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">suonatore di organetto</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUui-nxjFqKGfxpVcQH1btCr6J3k2FY3u4TjQy8bH2ZNtKkrfhoN4FzNRDPPqyfFXW4l_vWHNVXXNATzoq5aT7feXPjZkudLLKthbSSLRDKIfv7biNYGWchmUGRicMn4MuDJYdxcJKIXEjdO9eddDLM67dffdFmp7tqhRDlGMHxR9v2f4mznsjt_wrjSY/s1209/20230805_100019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUui-nxjFqKGfxpVcQH1btCr6J3k2FY3u4TjQy8bH2ZNtKkrfhoN4FzNRDPPqyfFXW4l_vWHNVXXNATzoq5aT7feXPjZkudLLKthbSSLRDKIfv7biNYGWchmUGRicMn4MuDJYdxcJKIXEjdO9eddDLM67dffdFmp7tqhRDlGMHxR9v2f4mznsjt_wrjSY/s320/20230805_100019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La cattedrale fu costruita sulla sommità delle rovine del templo mayor azteco, con le pietre smantellate da quest'ultimo. Il primo architetto prese a modello la cattedrale di Siviglia, ma ridusse a 5 le 7 navate a causa del terreno poroso. I portali barocchi sono del XVII secolo. Un secolo dopo furono aggiunti gli ordini superiori delle torri, mentre nel 1813 furono aggiunte statue e un orologio. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2jceZK8wgCKfBravJMomrwOlRNR-Aq2wIBnYHNCkm_9y_xPT9xMjT3pyCAGTmXUTIYdd2hNCMxK6zwwvO7VJcSr_WU-NTjh_Ucxevv0tSwH-Jl8Mx-Mm0H9KfSmVml0HPRK2-O-uluPLBO3Uehx96jQS6yrSR3tr7BWqA7xa9MQ8TTxBtdGFvZ2kIBs/s979/20230805_100033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2jceZK8wgCKfBravJMomrwOlRNR-Aq2wIBnYHNCkm_9y_xPT9xMjT3pyCAGTmXUTIYdd2hNCMxK6zwwvO7VJcSr_WU-NTjh_Ucxevv0tSwH-Jl8Mx-Mm0H9KfSmVml0HPRK2-O-uluPLBO3Uehx96jQS6yrSR3tr7BWqA7xa9MQ8TTxBtdGFvZ2kIBs/s320/20230805_100033.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Entrando si nota subito l'altare del perdono, con il crocifisso del Signore del veleno; narra la leggenda che il Cristo sia diventato nero dopo aver assorbito il veleno somministrato a un sacerdote da un suo nemico. L'osmosi sarebbe avvenuta tramite i piedi, baciati con devozione dall'uomo di chiesa. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKpFWQeU5sH93CmXSr37mZQJEUvXtDxsnQzeq5isyTRoyaRd6g9F1UrHBymgFy_LDP8RfYkSs1l2NrmUwFwL6p0KXLo93CpkoF13JKrFCpprzcsw626jkqDoGi2lq4C52nPIulwxwTmG8NgoKQIJDwvSJUjJodxSfpsEqXzDCchiAmOjIEX67CNT6eIOo/s1209/20230805_100540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKpFWQeU5sH93CmXSr37mZQJEUvXtDxsnQzeq5isyTRoyaRd6g9F1UrHBymgFy_LDP8RfYkSs1l2NrmUwFwL6p0KXLo93CpkoF13JKrFCpprzcsw626jkqDoGi2lq4C52nPIulwxwTmG8NgoKQIJDwvSJUjJodxSfpsEqXzDCchiAmOjIEX67CNT6eIOo/s320/20230805_100540.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgARGXZnp_nQNF9gSCtoqU_ohzzLbDAbycDso_dydxJTyIsanNSBfnlAHRlAgzOnqvXsYJsC__qJs5cvrVXOMwMiVa4lPp2qeEUntqn2L1_WJmEU7dVikY0i7GYc4vc_Z0naRF-e6XuJ75LkttltWP3cCytpHm93U5cl2KKGCofTgJE4LvfNci6lj2INyc/s1209/20230805_123003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgARGXZnp_nQNF9gSCtoqU_ohzzLbDAbycDso_dydxJTyIsanNSBfnlAHRlAgzOnqvXsYJsC__qJs5cvrVXOMwMiVa4lPp2qeEUntqn2L1_WJmEU7dVikY0i7GYc4vc_Z0naRF-e6XuJ75LkttltWP3cCytpHm93U5cl2KKGCofTgJE4LvfNci6lj2INyc/s320/20230805_123003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-PN8u4l9DROvRAx21dPCOCQDWG5MrA3fsDP_caYobGhiRN2xx8a5quRy3UiHPfV2VtHXLeUnaLSxsMSzNgQCPG3Ldbu4ChfUHogJYZ2H3h1kmYYKGLyGtOUhci4FmA2rKNs-8G0eOykwChtqMBd8HDYZFBzFbQs65JDIWXaurfAv-RG6IpVx4xFIJ6RE/s1209/20230805_123023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-PN8u4l9DROvRAx21dPCOCQDWG5MrA3fsDP_caYobGhiRN2xx8a5quRy3UiHPfV2VtHXLeUnaLSxsMSzNgQCPG3Ldbu4ChfUHogJYZ2H3h1kmYYKGLyGtOUhci4FmA2rKNs-8G0eOykwChtqMBd8HDYZFBzFbQs65JDIWXaurfAv-RG6IpVx4xFIJ6RE/s320/20230805_123023.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tra i molti capolavori artistici conservati nella cattedrale, spicca l'Altare dei re, collocato dietro l'altare maggiore, un tripudio d'oro settecentesco. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR1MJcOBGxe5e6PWJuH1fRPYsRF9OjP0x0H7JxbIpPWgNtRbKtnLgc4FayEj2wZ-yTcomGYMxAr4YCnDfBVqLD30WlzFPXbz9UgVlgLEJoxIKmqU_XD2Gze-UpICz94VwngDvA6bBtrK2HTfbQRfIxl8utHxrjrE_J5fG4YFR6aCFYND2toUAf17-3JPI/s1209/20230805_124056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR1MJcOBGxe5e6PWJuH1fRPYsRF9OjP0x0H7JxbIpPWgNtRbKtnLgc4FayEj2wZ-yTcomGYMxAr4YCnDfBVqLD30WlzFPXbz9UgVlgLEJoxIKmqU_XD2Gze-UpICz94VwngDvA6bBtrK2HTfbQRfIxl8utHxrjrE_J5fG4YFR6aCFYND2toUAf17-3JPI/s320/20230805_124056.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYlfyKTts1uF7Aa02rNqNXgMZrIANCUq0GKEM1PFwch7TALKMFZ4Kne6pkmAp7vj69Re0-N5zQWUd8W6n_R_f892NfV4BRcBovthhfnjxEv-E0XbZ4sAXZ4dwGvDL04XNjRxz50GQO9qtqn8sKOm-4k27cQFDZ1mQf7ucjUO0eLK8a_8qJp5Izc4SglU/s1209/20230805_124216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJYlfyKTts1uF7Aa02rNqNXgMZrIANCUq0GKEM1PFwch7TALKMFZ4Kne6pkmAp7vj69Re0-N5zQWUd8W6n_R_f892NfV4BRcBovthhfnjxEv-E0XbZ4sAXZ4dwGvDL04XNjRxz50GQO9qtqn8sKOm-4k27cQFDZ1mQf7ucjUO0eLK8a_8qJp5Izc4SglU/s320/20230805_124216.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Dalla cattedrale si può accedere direttamente al Sagrario metropolitano, anch'esso del XVIII secolo. In origine doveva custodire i paramenti e gli archivi vescovili, oggi è la chiesa parrocchiale più importante della città. I portali sono un esempio magnifico di stile churrigueresco.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_h37dlp_ltcGZcTSnvtrVN8y_fLOgA5iYnw-C-l0EuU1aRzjYcpb_B7i0XxNUnXF4FKY7YXPLuHKTp91-i9OsjgGVaoXgF9dkmzM5ESQzJmD_NYguxTqgS6E90dlc3yds9ZWo-QdZYF_6pujo64Xkh0ehdxeD3x073_WYa8NEQ_oOTuFtdHnQdonWzuE/s1209/20230805_100850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_h37dlp_ltcGZcTSnvtrVN8y_fLOgA5iYnw-C-l0EuU1aRzjYcpb_B7i0XxNUnXF4FKY7YXPLuHKTp91-i9OsjgGVaoXgF9dkmzM5ESQzJmD_NYguxTqgS6E90dlc3yds9ZWo-QdZYF_6pujo64Xkh0ehdxeD3x073_WYa8NEQ_oOTuFtdHnQdonWzuE/s320/20230805_100850.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2Fr1rt-wJI1juxNvUat0FO86S_VwIhf8Ik6hwXmuXF_SOSa6fhCnklYzeJ5qZjAANvjBrNvKHl2lL_CXLeFBJyFNsDJ7ypk2hoVT5fvZamLxd2ElvAOL5nlCW2LD9mlBvX0HBD_Da-37fjZsZ3jTeH_VHD60BxOz3FKN0_Xi74AxEn_dxO4JRaafZlQ/s1209/20230805_101108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2Fr1rt-wJI1juxNvUat0FO86S_VwIhf8Ik6hwXmuXF_SOSa6fhCnklYzeJ5qZjAANvjBrNvKHl2lL_CXLeFBJyFNsDJ7ypk2hoVT5fvZamLxd2ElvAOL5nlCW2LD9mlBvX0HBD_Da-37fjZsZ3jTeH_VHD60BxOz3FKN0_Xi74AxEn_dxO4JRaafZlQ/s320/20230805_101108.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbuctMJ9Cfosw7c3OqCXWuCZcVSn0oJoXV4ftwMQGv3CaS5lA87rWwj9WMPVZEHxtrygxv3Ref-FynUVzJGOHiAB3N0wOUQDykYkEZhsZuGCbb_kgnuOzWW4bbEveTTqcaQ6wLYKVSsia12JkMoeUNs5IatxEHaTskzwshWZ0svFd8a3igc4IP-jDRUCo/s1209/20230805_122521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbuctMJ9Cfosw7c3OqCXWuCZcVSn0oJoXV4ftwMQGv3CaS5lA87rWwj9WMPVZEHxtrygxv3Ref-FynUVzJGOHiAB3N0wOUQDykYkEZhsZuGCbb_kgnuOzWW4bbEveTTqcaQ6wLYKVSsia12JkMoeUNs5IatxEHaTskzwshWZ0svFd8a3igc4IP-jDRUCo/s320/20230805_122521.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-jOpyvXWQZ5mz8BEDbOHcG-NTvWeN8QP5w5Lzqa4SaUJlg-ECEDGbknDPrNaK9TFW0Bea8xn83NoJCTHy2Tn5MnrYhckb-ZPyIdbJhSSTar4jc-hfPGd1vJWLXzCqb-AmNunB78ZA9DbOFd9sHnMHnSnL-dP1va9kW4twrDpXm90CTD6qDJaG-AYG68/s1209/20230805_122524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-jOpyvXWQZ5mz8BEDbOHcG-NTvWeN8QP5w5Lzqa4SaUJlg-ECEDGbknDPrNaK9TFW0Bea8xn83NoJCTHy2Tn5MnrYhckb-ZPyIdbJhSSTar4jc-hfPGd1vJWLXzCqb-AmNunB78ZA9DbOFd9sHnMHnSnL-dP1va9kW4twrDpXm90CTD6qDJaG-AYG68/s320/20230805_122524.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3SPBF5aDl24dSCjxXxMTRRElvXYY0fnBES9yWt-WahbTh8Z422i1BUlcjpIG27WPyDd-6m3nr3_2a2iDmX1GcxCkYoQyBO_BRm0JKWp2s2Z8ZZdI-cdKivqaKeGu-lLDiJ16fFz9xJAecq3x7LX7DNXaf4Z4uTWsBhB2pyYSP9RlUDlXh8ZLurjOrIZA/s979/20230805_122729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3SPBF5aDl24dSCjxXxMTRRElvXYY0fnBES9yWt-WahbTh8Z422i1BUlcjpIG27WPyDd-6m3nr3_2a2iDmX1GcxCkYoQyBO_BRm0JKWp2s2Z8ZZdI-cdKivqaKeGu-lLDiJ16fFz9xJAecq3x7LX7DNXaf4Z4uTWsBhB2pyYSP9RlUDlXh8ZLurjOrIZA/s320/20230805_122729.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Uscendo, ci troviamo davanti al Palacio Nacional, che ospita gli uffici del presidente e la Tesoreria. Purtroppo è chiuso nei weekend, quindi non possiamo ammirare i murales di Rivera. Qui sorgeva il palazzo cinquecentesco di Montezuma II, raso al suolo pochi anni dopo, nel 1521, da Cortes, che fece costruire un palazzo per sè. Questo fu poi acquistato dalla Corona di Spagna nel 1562 per adibirlo a residenza dei vicerè, funziona che mantenne fino all'indipendenza. Sopra alla porta centrale si trova la Campana de Dolores, che nel 1810 venne fatta suonare nella cittadina di Dolores Hidalgo per annunciare l'inizio della guerra di indipendenza. Ogni anno, nella notte del 15 settembre, il presidente si affaccia al balcone sottostante e grida "Viva México!" per commemorare l'evento.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdJg09AcSlJ7I_Wvo179dztQcO8HylQ3wNeE_446vRDuuhOkSKhOhaLZUgF2i-P9f1Ja1xeTVnUI41HEP3fMhDPJj9prQ-wwn8AONVvp0TgvprqDzhISit9IUju-jCqbmwnv14T4X81vg6y56jdzYvGwez-i6SuBSa7QM8jBLS3Ve4ldpvlJO5pTfLG4/s1209/20230805_101203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdJg09AcSlJ7I_Wvo179dztQcO8HylQ3wNeE_446vRDuuhOkSKhOhaLZUgF2i-P9f1Ja1xeTVnUI41HEP3fMhDPJj9prQ-wwn8AONVvp0TgvprqDzhISit9IUju-jCqbmwnv14T4X81vg6y56jdzYvGwez-i6SuBSa7QM8jBLS3Ve4ldpvlJO5pTfLG4/s320/20230805_101203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqTntf6If73fPs8zKnMFMhhvTdRZ_0sBXC90UyDPcGWDLdMckVwhyEkUG2_h6vS-IxCGHdN3S658kjx0dinaxia1lHb_a32Dje7WGZ6R9DD4HMmyvhTIgmMJ24xNBKltdVeMDxZ6KgjyfBuTV8LWzKbbkZtzCv3E5ujKRKPT8J_a_zjd_t_KjtqN9-dc/s1209/20230805_101226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijqTntf6If73fPs8zKnMFMhhvTdRZ_0sBXC90UyDPcGWDLdMckVwhyEkUG2_h6vS-IxCGHdN3S658kjx0dinaxia1lHb_a32Dje7WGZ6R9DD4HMmyvhTIgmMJ24xNBKltdVeMDxZ6KgjyfBuTV8LWzKbbkZtzCv3E5ujKRKPT8J_a_zjd_t_KjtqN9-dc/s320/20230805_101226.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tra il palazzo e la cattedrale si apre uno spazio da cui emergono le rovine del teocalli, il centro cerimoniale di Tenochtitlan. O meglio, il poco che ne resta. Fu scoperto per caso nel 1978 quando gli operai di una azienda elettrica, scavando sotto ad edifici coloniali, trovarono un disco di pietra di otto tonnellate raffigurante la dea azteca Coyolxauhqui. Si ritiene che questo tempio sia stato costruito nel luogo in cui gli aztechi videro l'aquila divorare il serpente, ombelico geometrico del loro universo. Gli scavi hanno rivelato diverse fasi di costruzione e rimaneggiamento della struttura, fino a quelle immediatamente precedenti l'arrivo degli spagnoli. Tutte erano accompagnate da abbondante sacrificio di prigionieri di guerra. Sopra al tempio torreggiavano due piramidi di 40m, a rappresentare la dualità: da un lato il dio della guerra Huizilopochtli, maschile, distruttore, legato al cielo e al fuoco, al calore. dall'altro Tlaloc, dio della pioggia, della fertilità, femminile, generatore, legato alla terra e all'acqua. A entrambe le divinità si offrivano sacrifici, ma con metodi diversi, usando coltelli dalla lama in pietra diversa, con doni rituali differenti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_2q5-OwSo2H7JiEufodrOOys6ZWuS4bah1nCP5h1ScxiX4zq4KWzKB7T8W2yfBnEN39c_M-IA1BgsNNmRo0PPxohu_TY8FjH6DUsap7De90gRO8uyDo6JWHOcaZ7snQE4syUO6LcVfBRg3saopn5QWtWOKsdCZ0LbHPZ7lTMhO1hhtDgDK2ACN_PmEBw/s1209/20230805_102037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_2q5-OwSo2H7JiEufodrOOys6ZWuS4bah1nCP5h1ScxiX4zq4KWzKB7T8W2yfBnEN39c_M-IA1BgsNNmRo0PPxohu_TY8FjH6DUsap7De90gRO8uyDo6JWHOcaZ7snQE4syUO6LcVfBRg3saopn5QWtWOKsdCZ0LbHPZ7lTMhO1hhtDgDK2ACN_PmEBw/s320/20230805_102037.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIfjq0mQF60CzDL6nYhd78lTdjDv1j_ixIALyAKxc6NvOPreAzOQ4nRAW1mSwDNxZ0JcWXC3HHCOua8gP8Mk0vRfILffDNI4bPIXBQNhUcMDSwUZOcAbf0_eabJVd-FsyrKGGl8EJviBd_C_Ls8nN5pN-7s-2O01lPuofp__aU3G1pnZiMecZ2FHk-sc/s1209/20230805_102117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIfjq0mQF60CzDL6nYhd78lTdjDv1j_ixIALyAKxc6NvOPreAzOQ4nRAW1mSwDNxZ0JcWXC3HHCOua8gP8Mk0vRfILffDNI4bPIXBQNhUcMDSwUZOcAbf0_eabJVd-FsyrKGGl8EJviBd_C_Ls8nN5pN-7s-2O01lPuofp__aU3G1pnZiMecZ2FHk-sc/s320/20230805_102117.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCeZ9Uc075qt6eVEanIlv8hTRLxYozwYFqnUbW9mHqQ0cXKtbnGv_CXCgltLVDlTQVuZTD8ByvBUA-Ag4NQXCDZT8hVPHBvtG3I0kBtg-XdvYvDgVjdmb852PH1dYlt2c6hu9TFirFQY2EYrKDmFFNYsp6YNKqE1G3iWob_R8Y7f1SEK6Bi7z-fT723c/s1209/20230805_102432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCeZ9Uc075qt6eVEanIlv8hTRLxYozwYFqnUbW9mHqQ0cXKtbnGv_CXCgltLVDlTQVuZTD8ByvBUA-Ag4NQXCDZT8hVPHBvtG3I0kBtg-XdvYvDgVjdmb852PH1dYlt2c6hu9TFirFQY2EYrKDmFFNYsp6YNKqE1G3iWob_R8Y7f1SEK6Bi7z-fT723c/s320/20230805_102432.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkDMrKj6vcnzr-lEQJkt1FOG8ga4V-RZTPCwrRD3Dstzhi2rxLyLjpuWCaoOAuTvJ7gaP1Bk8-JBhhrRAEdTaxdvc7O_uJnA6PrbFLw3Q8X_BLxntNKb5aDBxA-AOzqL1WX4Vgro-ySZNB0nzlHg0D14HZr2ezxDQ_kutcYAxkehyQuH2Uhw2wvl567c0/s1209/20230805_102507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkDMrKj6vcnzr-lEQJkt1FOG8ga4V-RZTPCwrRD3Dstzhi2rxLyLjpuWCaoOAuTvJ7gaP1Bk8-JBhhrRAEdTaxdvc7O_uJnA6PrbFLw3Q8X_BLxntNKb5aDBxA-AOzqL1WX4Vgro-ySZNB0nzlHg0D14HZr2ezxDQ_kutcYAxkehyQuH2Uhw2wvl567c0/s320/20230805_102507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkm8H-S8ZO5X6V0yCAxSXep2KtbK1i7Nm4GgpBmbHDH2rnTuGWPlzqNwCW4umkICjQbE8Abq9zZsUoqIIKQ0tNjpyyKFMKx5tvGHdxXwILRi2Kulu7CIf1xuHzw8KtV5RvdR5345y4VbBpNg_FgTk_ce1PAb6TdYic3nIxXyy6y1cXkfu5hQaDiQ8X2Vg/s1209/20230805_102602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkm8H-S8ZO5X6V0yCAxSXep2KtbK1i7Nm4GgpBmbHDH2rnTuGWPlzqNwCW4umkICjQbE8Abq9zZsUoqIIKQ0tNjpyyKFMKx5tvGHdxXwILRi2Kulu7CIf1xuHzw8KtV5RvdR5345y4VbBpNg_FgTk_ce1PAb6TdYic3nIxXyy6y1cXkfu5hQaDiQ8X2Vg/s320/20230805_102602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver osservato gli scavi dall'alto, scendiamo all'ingresso del museo e del sito. In questi pochi metri ci imbattiamo in artigiane in abiti tradizionali che si recano alla fiera, e nei danzatori aztechi che, al ritmo frenetico di tamburi (huehuetl), nel fumo inebriante del copal, danzano e intonano canti in nahuatl. Rievocano il mitote, frenetica festa preispanica che si svolgeva in epoca di raccolto. L'insieme è un po' kitsch, un po' figata, un po' poracciata. Questi ragazzi in costume, dipinti e addobbati, passano poi con il cestino delle offerte a chiedere la monetina. Non posso giudicare quella che da fuori sembra la (s)vendita di una tradizione sacra. L'insieme, tuttavia, crea un mix incredibile di energia e originalità che mi affascina, soprattutto vedendo queste persone seminude, con perizomi in pelle di serpente, che fanno ciò che si faceva qui mezzo millennio fa, circondati da chiese, palazzi coloniali e una folla eterogenea armata di smartphone. Questa sì è complessità! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR8nCY_LeVtTxo6d9EzgFE9yZq7XhV7O-eP4p1x5h59iuB7mYz2WtWSiwf5TOrtANWHyiLtGFMJvmjCbU9eBh4l3aluUvMa_Ya7su1CB39aYbIWe59dvy2LdGThzWGgjyilygovvpGP1J_cYEPq3v7gGHkJMGTu6ZIt3AtgNO6AHDPWfUm58CzNyxYrZg/s1209/20230805_102928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR8nCY_LeVtTxo6d9EzgFE9yZq7XhV7O-eP4p1x5h59iuB7mYz2WtWSiwf5TOrtANWHyiLtGFMJvmjCbU9eBh4l3aluUvMa_Ya7su1CB39aYbIWe59dvy2LdGThzWGgjyilygovvpGP1J_cYEPq3v7gGHkJMGTu6ZIt3AtgNO6AHDPWfUm58CzNyxYrZg/s320/20230805_102928.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1Llq4b-s6EIE5GDURxTBYlQFdIhNTodKbOGvcBXOprnfPsTultOqW7On494nG4vtckw1PIEbYPfMqsO_RaNGujWC7kdaFJaBGqU8LLKVkvy2bk5Gprku-qfeVJEbA5uUx0ecQJ3Yqt9mbl8XZWbohVFDnoQvTwzn-JkjF1gtk3Jlc9eezkvx-ludc-s/s1209/20230805_103134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1Llq4b-s6EIE5GDURxTBYlQFdIhNTodKbOGvcBXOprnfPsTultOqW7On494nG4vtckw1PIEbYPfMqsO_RaNGujWC7kdaFJaBGqU8LLKVkvy2bk5Gprku-qfeVJEbA5uUx0ecQJ3Yqt9mbl8XZWbohVFDnoQvTwzn-JkjF1gtk3Jlc9eezkvx-ludc-s/s320/20230805_103134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSORUu6GOlXnRWQiI9Svlv5q0ionXw7EIkzQdOo5uIDcITqbYIpFf9K_9dz73ROzmsjjZBsotqYnr-dmmyYjrAjmYZHBVFo23T3qjI2_pzKQnjAYX9_Gyn5VBGDWTANfpK1zB-i92hTIM020ueyLkMIC6vaNcqEdchGI7uPdzg_5kzqj1HtNu-EO1OJc/s1209/20230805_103307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSORUu6GOlXnRWQiI9Svlv5q0ionXw7EIkzQdOo5uIDcITqbYIpFf9K_9dz73ROzmsjjZBsotqYnr-dmmyYjrAjmYZHBVFo23T3qjI2_pzKQnjAYX9_Gyn5VBGDWTANfpK1zB-i92hTIM020ueyLkMIC6vaNcqEdchGI7uPdzg_5kzqj1HtNu-EO1OJc/s320/20230805_103307.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo aver ammirato lo spettacolo, riusciamo a vincere l'attrazione magnetica che ci incolla alla piazza e entriamo nel sito del Templo Mayor. Oltre alle rovine, si può visitare il museo del sito. Vado ad illustrare solo alcuni pezzi che mi hanno colpita particolamente.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjgqcy9Dp5x0wqkfiBXu5XvNOLE367RI9roRlsln7YSqB50o7HtdUN7hOXaLYuhI5uRBBeXP0UKcOf7v0JNcO6l284TJguOwVrtGDG_SzsgiiWAT8EwXC8b14xHpZkefhLGkMBnYkKoxm5YE_vYBbRXP3oBYjdAE8T612ZusevQnmGS2aUgsEvR49IAc/s1209/20230805_105041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjgqcy9Dp5x0wqkfiBXu5XvNOLE367RI9roRlsln7YSqB50o7HtdUN7hOXaLYuhI5uRBBeXP0UKcOf7v0JNcO6l284TJguOwVrtGDG_SzsgiiWAT8EwXC8b14xHpZkefhLGkMBnYkKoxm5YE_vYBbRXP3oBYjdAE8T612ZusevQnmGS2aUgsEvR49IAc/s320/20230805_105041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqBxG_gGCLoHT3P143rYeHAyD8FYLT62vUuSoVwC4eryr5rHmlJd73dMlmL4OhfmnmAySOQWUaHv-2PlC3wt_gMZi_5JbB15QBb95rijmTmdKUHin4tQ9Y1DPrrn2ESLgKfL0orprN4g_SvWRtHTdtZ2Gka02zDTrHmquktOgxCc_83GJ6EmObepT1Yw/s979/20230805_105221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqBxG_gGCLoHT3P143rYeHAyD8FYLT62vUuSoVwC4eryr5rHmlJd73dMlmL4OhfmnmAySOQWUaHv-2PlC3wt_gMZi_5JbB15QBb95rijmTmdKUHin4tQ9Y1DPrrn2ESLgKfL0orprN4g_SvWRtHTdtZ2Gka02zDTrHmquktOgxCc_83GJ6EmObepT1Yw/s320/20230805_105221.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TZdbccp9P46fkyXbMBphH4mXFMquS85ZzN0YPKr1NJaLQ15Ef5AHbU1vLoBkut2aCOD3ZAi2wxZxLUu-favSIB9b265ATDtFlMLna5qLb1DQEqekLBLSf-fvxPCw9NHWYWl9M_44-8Aa6K8vqPh9TwZzguO-M-jNRJI9oWw8j0QaU9eEoW3JIt1zzgM/s1209/20230805_105354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TZdbccp9P46fkyXbMBphH4mXFMquS85ZzN0YPKr1NJaLQ15Ef5AHbU1vLoBkut2aCOD3ZAi2wxZxLUu-favSIB9b265ATDtFlMLna5qLb1DQEqekLBLSf-fvxPCw9NHWYWl9M_44-8Aa6K8vqPh9TwZzguO-M-jNRJI9oWw8j0QaU9eEoW3JIt1zzgM/s320/20230805_105354.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La torre di teschi, tzompantli. Questi sono scolpiti, ma nel 2017 ne è stata rinvenuta una con crani veri, oltre 650, tra cui quelli di donne e bambini. Forse si tratta della leggendaria Huey tzompantli, citata nei manoscritti spagnoli.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0o1hASSQyIkBwMu-SVlL-8Ih91PA8pWxjfdbs0nvCg7-OLbRh1-6UXp9udVCsgrmKawxdRvNBHPmoccOg8w3l-QAZWkPSzfPvhEo9W-tGK8mP8aTkTM3uA702zXTLdm5KvO8Oxo27pbnEU-F2vC2l2Kor08Xckl-pt5swkauE_mZUM1YN_Q6maAxYgBc/s1209/20230805_105637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0o1hASSQyIkBwMu-SVlL-8Ih91PA8pWxjfdbs0nvCg7-OLbRh1-6UXp9udVCsgrmKawxdRvNBHPmoccOg8w3l-QAZWkPSzfPvhEo9W-tGK8mP8aTkTM3uA702zXTLdm5KvO8Oxo27pbnEU-F2vC2l2Kor08Xckl-pt5swkauE_mZUM1YN_Q6maAxYgBc/s320/20230805_105637.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi765z7q3DQlXH-TkSy_pEkgNYT5nLv0w23cC5qwzjDD0ETnnD36IrELF_c_yeuKfbR5Y5KQi9ZKothCu4ZSU8X062ptqG4aTFmPl67Ykk40WGcqiw_AteTv3o8QTxDeRiFGG-XlEADsDrI2f8a7eyN8oQYuYpRsjhgpUIwnZKvUVcBPMfctA9V37RLA0g/s1209/20230805_105803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi765z7q3DQlXH-TkSy_pEkgNYT5nLv0w23cC5qwzjDD0ETnnD36IrELF_c_yeuKfbR5Y5KQi9ZKothCu4ZSU8X062ptqG4aTFmPl67Ykk40WGcqiw_AteTv3o8QTxDeRiFGG-XlEADsDrI2f8a7eyN8oQYuYpRsjhgpUIwnZKvUVcBPMfctA9V37RLA0g/s320/20230805_105803.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ky8U1TJv9xfJ27D6Nu74yWGkbCRt6f4gwaRIv8vGobHdvuWrClG9JQ8Kv8m825ys_jaGObItMORGnTiYwVqo-UDpuasq097DYTEa6FpmY8ViW2QzAfNKDNohoP6ZkIkAOqy9b-sh9mYqDNY7D6mIjBA-lAmnyHuqx1IgvdHCLEm1l3KuGqiHv9titBM/s1209/20230805_105813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ky8U1TJv9xfJ27D6Nu74yWGkbCRt6f4gwaRIv8vGobHdvuWrClG9JQ8Kv8m825ys_jaGObItMORGnTiYwVqo-UDpuasq097DYTEa6FpmY8ViW2QzAfNKDNohoP6ZkIkAOqy9b-sh9mYqDNY7D6mIjBA-lAmnyHuqx1IgvdHCLEm1l3KuGqiHv9titBM/s320/20230805_105813.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWyBFYeav9MEMk0rmP7aA_xGm7hJ9yfREZeVXFMJDbz6vJkH0fIVgqsop_ISTV3viNI65rx4t0sJjdBW1zqtfKKHOyKS7XMAb6yaL1B5OiYhBlwUdos6XuG2K0pTsCtOHd_nIpSgPN2vcFRn7yn4hA7KAOVaglrYDYu9NvhhpkNnfRjDXSqYQEwvlatw/s1209/20230805_110045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWyBFYeav9MEMk0rmP7aA_xGm7hJ9yfREZeVXFMJDbz6vJkH0fIVgqsop_ISTV3viNI65rx4t0sJjdBW1zqtfKKHOyKS7XMAb6yaL1B5OiYhBlwUdos6XuG2K0pTsCtOHd_nIpSgPN2vcFRn7yn4hA7KAOVaglrYDYu9NvhhpkNnfRjDXSqYQEwvlatw/s320/20230805_110045.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07IArCV__6EyNxxyw6T4HysjhL7KYW2M7rnxF2rgS_xtWzzgOUOBDTOQmcDnRXH738FIfKbZa6jrJOuZWK9-yvD2RNRodRH2b5J_jkkl-6SsKbMAsvX8zu8LmoRNc0kMY7ig5vUam6ogcVJp_-ynZ8878pojs3WyiyCkF7NcDkaml0HpPx0ib4-I9Sew/s1209/20230805_110301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi07IArCV__6EyNxxyw6T4HysjhL7KYW2M7rnxF2rgS_xtWzzgOUOBDTOQmcDnRXH738FIfKbZa6jrJOuZWK9-yvD2RNRodRH2b5J_jkkl-6SsKbMAsvX8zu8LmoRNc0kMY7ig5vUam6ogcVJp_-ynZ8878pojs3WyiyCkF7NcDkaml0HpPx0ib4-I9Sew/s320/20230805_110301.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sepolture di dignitari e offerte agli dei. In entrambi i casi si sacrificavano numerosi schiavi e prigionieri</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSim_sghgrUmwejHotb6YxRSZ_yLFgnhxlKx-uHyoDhFEzTMvg3u6xRnE8oSO15I2webSxaTUnhOc3CXTiuoRU3KxzRpUElJulQBYUkiSOxIJvtOWZiVVK9olb5RPouL1UwuS-7ACEQ668dvBla0dHMC1SjMjWYTnuUR4wEih-cxpugiYGfIf9q3Y5wg8/s1209/20230805_110455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSim_sghgrUmwejHotb6YxRSZ_yLFgnhxlKx-uHyoDhFEzTMvg3u6xRnE8oSO15I2webSxaTUnhOc3CXTiuoRU3KxzRpUElJulQBYUkiSOxIJvtOWZiVVK9olb5RPouL1UwuS-7ACEQ668dvBla0dHMC1SjMjWYTnuUR4wEih-cxpugiYGfIf9q3Y5wg8/s320/20230805_110455.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">decorazioni sulla sommità dei templi</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLpWJEYfL2hBNaH0MZvBjdmlPmB9rz96Pg9lf-wpdais9Q9RKm0zjoz6HXb4HT6yELk2G3wWS6LgQ_L6VZGrBAfekA0gRZE1W7jDrNxglDN9SjaXoxihrsIlJnKFXVm8p6BqpfU1KVfUtXyErETWCy7kyRaFdnyKht-kvNzzgijxGD_SHGP-lAv4D49xU/s1209/20230805_111306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLpWJEYfL2hBNaH0MZvBjdmlPmB9rz96Pg9lf-wpdais9Q9RKm0zjoz6HXb4HT6yELk2G3wWS6LgQ_L6VZGrBAfekA0gRZE1W7jDrNxglDN9SjaXoxihrsIlJnKFXVm8p6BqpfU1KVfUtXyErETWCy7kyRaFdnyKht-kvNzzgijxGD_SHGP-lAv4D49xU/s320/20230805_111306.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">coltelli rituali decorati con occhietti e dentini. Carini, non fosse che servivano a decapitare o estrarre il cuore delle vittime sacrificali</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMKNAPRBL0SFJgWgfJLgs3FuyLAyKqlXXximKBaQ3q_JjgjK-WojcPMccdajIAb3GRo_-Ox3fiau4etxe_fvR01kmux01t6-LEfH6AvRaYHMidT_4o4O6VE3KdzeVOPPJmkall2RxL838gcjEDzCtKFJtYwcbM3WVGlx6Jbh3HIl2jTrh0_Exc0ETlf34/s1209/20230805_111408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMKNAPRBL0SFJgWgfJLgs3FuyLAyKqlXXximKBaQ3q_JjgjK-WojcPMccdajIAb3GRo_-Ox3fiau4etxe_fvR01kmux01t6-LEfH6AvRaYHMidT_4o4O6VE3KdzeVOPPJmkall2RxL838gcjEDzCtKFJtYwcbM3WVGlx6Jbh3HIl2jTrh0_Exc0ETlf34/s320/20230805_111408.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lame nel naso e in bocca, oltre all'occhietto vispo</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwc3rGef92b54RmcBXAAuob7kQzSxuA_uiySr8kd_aD4Yl0epiAIQE7PfYMwtWvCsuFqLudRK5rvk3QNavGJY2v1DzgoeleJP8xQ9cnOu5fcrWWLuP22hWTiziKQS1dpZVec58nnydAJ9E_YXa1crhFphxuQyFiO6SsfZoX1208N7I_jyvkT7ual-j7g/s1209/20230805_111454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrwc3rGef92b54RmcBXAAuob7kQzSxuA_uiySr8kd_aD4Yl0epiAIQE7PfYMwtWvCsuFqLudRK5rvk3QNavGJY2v1DzgoeleJP8xQ9cnOu5fcrWWLuP22hWTiziKQS1dpZVec58nnydAJ9E_YXa1crhFphxuQyFiO6SsfZoX1208N7I_jyvkT7ual-j7g/s320/20230805_111454.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDppQOGp1MPcQa-b1LjKBSnPYPRROBQmFCQTSQObHfE_aKEecnm9zwTx-dbC_wPO1JLoqMSW4VOpk6S1PJ7y0V9CRY2Jl3hAP5zPSBgiAbuPwqjl_TKixoNQtjc5biv8asdpJkTgyuG0MI-DQkq651wYxNHEbRBfgaD9jXXgxO74Z7PBbzFl9kwu6pwqQ/s1209/20230805_111503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDppQOGp1MPcQa-b1LjKBSnPYPRROBQmFCQTSQObHfE_aKEecnm9zwTx-dbC_wPO1JLoqMSW4VOpk6S1PJ7y0V9CRY2Jl3hAP5zPSBgiAbuPwqjl_TKixoNQtjc5biv8asdpJkTgyuG0MI-DQkq651wYxNHEbRBfgaD9jXXgxO74Z7PBbzFl9kwu6pwqQ/s320/20230805_111503.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW-3DogsAmohgWtL6IcRtjID8mh8PJ2Xj323Ch3hSLY8CDU2JlBzmGDyiQEO8u8MDm-wwo_vAQ8nbN9oLB_6DyB2PcO9uNNbT7obSPhhGgn0WWa5dhVMnZR5LJ6h6Ijxf8P1ja0VA0nlQQcW7aEzn8Yc0H7QVV-xImbIPgxCaXoiNEqlHMG_tCFG3znaQ/s1209/20230805_111623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW-3DogsAmohgWtL6IcRtjID8mh8PJ2Xj323Ch3hSLY8CDU2JlBzmGDyiQEO8u8MDm-wwo_vAQ8nbN9oLB_6DyB2PcO9uNNbT7obSPhhGgn0WWa5dhVMnZR5LJ6h6Ijxf8P1ja0VA0nlQQcW7aEzn8Yc0H7QVV-xImbIPgxCaXoiNEqlHMG_tCFG3znaQ/s320/20230805_111623.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZRrrgXBbM6o7HuF0kgFkUr38WQaBANoaA734Sd-fV9iXnjSf_7lM5YAKGKl9Ernvhwp7AW2_bBtTWm0gRbq3LF41JS_w_t7ANQcfnoolvzuX8aaJUQqUvBN7f4RgVJXEC6GwXBha4aVYZI8f3CYV7-p7y0PH9vZFq81Kb68zJ_NDv8Es6xkbB5_vBpE/s1209/20230805_112036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZRrrgXBbM6o7HuF0kgFkUr38WQaBANoaA734Sd-fV9iXnjSf_7lM5YAKGKl9Ernvhwp7AW2_bBtTWm0gRbq3LF41JS_w_t7ANQcfnoolvzuX8aaJUQqUvBN7f4RgVJXEC6GwXBha4aVYZI8f3CYV7-p7y0PH9vZFq81Kb68zJ_NDv8Es6xkbB5_vBpE/s320/20230805_112036.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">statua di oltre 2m della divinità della morte, in posizione di attacco, con gli artigli sguainati. Dal costato penzola il fegato aperto</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MIchKmXZAuKWAnPAzX5Vd5Kbw8_O7WC1a7VTtuYX0TAfEA_T6COELp43J8pSsy_AthCBTzbVEw5ZwgeqYKyLqS1uPKIcPWPoFFdMhYZOH4PJj8FQAYJkIE3HxsTEkoFg494b6WzpCtZpPlzbe_ns2RyQTxQFMz8nDW1RndNzHc1d6aq20n_iRrkblqQ/s1209/20230805_112136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MIchKmXZAuKWAnPAzX5Vd5Kbw8_O7WC1a7VTtuYX0TAfEA_T6COELp43J8pSsy_AthCBTzbVEw5ZwgeqYKyLqS1uPKIcPWPoFFdMhYZOH4PJj8FQAYJkIE3HxsTEkoFg494b6WzpCtZpPlzbe_ns2RyQTxQFMz8nDW1RndNzHc1d6aq20n_iRrkblqQ/s320/20230805_112136.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">statua a dimensioni naturali del guerriero aquila</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26qOHBI-olcdwx7G4CFLYTcZcEs3j8VCoRu7t50qGOA1a13o9Of2Cx3C-uiQYIfN1QiuBsHuCLq9tOc0ezeANvY7gno70kID7wq1XwR6YMqxjMOAAzRgI--8lWdYB3UwmcUEapudqKJ59tHxzG0SRMDkbKJ54qXEFqiO3lTrNjlqfZBADHZgBFjNdegI/s1209/20230805_112146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26qOHBI-olcdwx7G4CFLYTcZcEs3j8VCoRu7t50qGOA1a13o9Of2Cx3C-uiQYIfN1QiuBsHuCLq9tOc0ezeANvY7gno70kID7wq1XwR6YMqxjMOAAzRgI--8lWdYB3UwmcUEapudqKJ59tHxzG0SRMDkbKJ54qXEFqiO3lTrNjlqfZBADHZgBFjNdegI/s320/20230805_112146.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8nV4fBL-tJnpChBWEvWf533JBKHkXQOGDp17tw12pSJIqpbpyUgDf7nj-tiY7buTOCfRL0piB1HkCWMirM002DRwMErtugTD0D2GC9QxruJDB7AgMCnruJrQbCRWYsw4m-984p-KpoVWBQiW4_4TXUCJ4jBclj1AUzx9uS-w3w0YqL-y5pZ9SymMJpc/s1209/20230805_112240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8nV4fBL-tJnpChBWEvWf533JBKHkXQOGDp17tw12pSJIqpbpyUgDf7nj-tiY7buTOCfRL0piB1HkCWMirM002DRwMErtugTD0D2GC9QxruJDB7AgMCnruJrQbCRWYsw4m-984p-KpoVWBQiW4_4TXUCJ4jBclj1AUzx9uS-w3w0YqL-y5pZ9SymMJpc/s320/20230805_112240.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcUmHnbl577vQuIsDRP4oHJPrZKsRo4YJnFyjs8pWYRf-U5w630wU5Xb8KiDTCCjIpLrk3OqOIPCApvGmQX5KF9pH6eBW2DsQm62spu2B38Dg8UGkkxPO40KHGbaAKU2YffCu7QBfgxwIYIRK1JECvbUs7WOI55n2qzbJS79UdriryPFQY2HgoplbTt0E/s1209/20230805_112348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcUmHnbl577vQuIsDRP4oHJPrZKsRo4YJnFyjs8pWYRf-U5w630wU5Xb8KiDTCCjIpLrk3OqOIPCApvGmQX5KF9pH6eBW2DsQm62spu2B38Dg8UGkkxPO40KHGbaAKU2YffCu7QBfgxwIYIRK1JECvbUs7WOI55n2qzbJS79UdriryPFQY2HgoplbTt0E/s320/20230805_112348.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pietra da 8 tonnellate con la raffigurazione della dea della luna, decapitata dal fratello dio della guerra che, per diventare divinità suprema del pantheon azteco, non esitò a decapitare anche gli altri 400 fratelli</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YsaoLE4Jj_mQM-_vRNgNcGLIDk6HssE-azLqJDB53DsHvULkdC-l3nxE4oQA69a-1UhBS5nLQOBv3r_tR9nLT4wEY2kOVmTLS3iH3EzKMLKiok67ZNJXdgL0Vhi70q394ng3e5p2wsEOPJG_06j56fGjuVZdTzjZU1fIRM5KJvCWQoAA47de8f0w874/s1209/20230805_112403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YsaoLE4Jj_mQM-_vRNgNcGLIDk6HssE-azLqJDB53DsHvULkdC-l3nxE4oQA69a-1UhBS5nLQOBv3r_tR9nLT4wEY2kOVmTLS3iH3EzKMLKiok67ZNJXdgL0Vhi70q394ng3e5p2wsEOPJG_06j56fGjuVZdTzjZU1fIRM5KJvCWQoAA47de8f0w874/s320/20230805_112403.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsNRPDahb43haqY5DUAU26Sq3SAlcxcGv1q7IdFJxOvI0glb-ru_U_Y_r8zTwRHbZ6hDjFGeFmSAGgrjk9ypoxwyud6ARaTGc811_C_U2PUH4E2zOLQGYFEH2uulD1VRUOefIsFIfIKpAzsVdFAqE0KvQ-i5hiYx3NgTqrmXP1_QdIrgoCBEZgCycCpOw/s1209/20230805_112630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsNRPDahb43haqY5DUAU26Sq3SAlcxcGv1q7IdFJxOvI0glb-ru_U_Y_r8zTwRHbZ6hDjFGeFmSAGgrjk9ypoxwyud6ARaTGc811_C_U2PUH4E2zOLQGYFEH2uulD1VRUOefIsFIfIKpAzsVdFAqE0KvQ-i5hiYx3NgTqrmXP1_QdIrgoCBEZgCycCpOw/s320/20230805_112630.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dio della pioggia Tlaloc</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX5oR5BgYs3L89BBi6812sO9SKtv2PCurbRbxWLOelN6SHAL64frGw5LdQmxDyUU5IbLMU-ngEkkEBzgIytLXSo0NraJH84mRWj_0f7INWZOPn6uxZFN_-b1shQy5EPUcwaJyreQtR4R23l97i2mJmTB1CRxqOkR7Zqlawcnbsg_kJsRO-CnM_a0sf_w8/s1209/20230805_114614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX5oR5BgYs3L89BBi6812sO9SKtv2PCurbRbxWLOelN6SHAL64frGw5LdQmxDyUU5IbLMU-ngEkkEBzgIytLXSo0NraJH84mRWj_0f7INWZOPn6uxZFN_-b1shQy5EPUcwaJyreQtR4R23l97i2mJmTB1CRxqOkR7Zqlawcnbsg_kJsRO-CnM_a0sf_w8/s320/20230805_114614.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">megalite che raffigura la dei della fertilità della terra, madre prolifica dai seni lassi e dal ventre molle, con un filo di sangue che corre dai genitali alla bocca (o viceversa)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAXj7e0MSOXepqEqUZksZTBicYmsEPbwxnRGgLu-_mK6wwT6QvaXw_Sxbw52qdBR8MijCUOsomqv5QILmsHb3VVYoHeGQZc-E4mmio2roHqg5jX9Q6vc5xnZxGuyhaqkj2OC38k_yV9nIiQqOsDp-oaC0G8Q17OFyL2lK5HpiWFH3v6jSLHcJDCwIA1Q/s1209/20230805_115041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAXj7e0MSOXepqEqUZksZTBicYmsEPbwxnRGgLu-_mK6wwT6QvaXw_Sxbw52qdBR8MijCUOsomqv5QILmsHb3VVYoHeGQZc-E4mmio2roHqg5jX9Q6vc5xnZxGuyhaqkj2OC38k_yV9nIiQqOsDp-oaC0G8Q17OFyL2lK5HpiWFH3v6jSLHcJDCwIA1Q/s320/20230805_115041.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cattedrale sullo sfondo. Davanti, piattaforme cerimoniali dove avveniva la cremazione dei sovrani, e il sacrificio dei loro servi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo la visita, che mi lascia con l'idea che gli aztechi avessero sviluppato una cultura molto più raffinata di quanto credessi, anche dal punto di vista artistico, usciamo di nuovo in piazza e assistiamo ad altre danze frenetiche, mentre il suono dei tamburi si fonde con quello delle campane della cattedrale.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5CnUNndRhYJzHxC5Nt-HWcSMimod6ci_G9DmkoWPxlt7Bi6IrMsFhrf3YRi12FTcZlIIQ5NG4d-ARIuwVc9RqVcqo2hodEG7yRilYD47Qp03Sw0UKIHs-oSc6r41eTOHyYpFA_da6UQVP0_RNbJkC1DWj0i1knzRTMetHw7oi_d6RrcINqPwHjTZBgCo/s1209/20230805_120603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5CnUNndRhYJzHxC5Nt-HWcSMimod6ci_G9DmkoWPxlt7Bi6IrMsFhrf3YRi12FTcZlIIQ5NG4d-ARIuwVc9RqVcqo2hodEG7yRilYD47Qp03Sw0UKIHs-oSc6r41eTOHyYpFA_da6UQVP0_RNbJkC1DWj0i1knzRTMetHw7oi_d6RrcINqPwHjTZBgCo/s320/20230805_120603.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5YkEYrbfCfxr4X3x_UZDrXorYVLInmBg0VxlffBPaveWao2ycdRYAC8VTRQcC4t7YSeMaM5AdegdCOqrKpARa4dQG18PcNyrCf0q0jSuoNYDBEmNFHDqAttQ5mXpjg8gTGdaa9XecFBJ0w1btJnGG754ACsNXbrDrOf342VR7k3xGDoIYVCDvQzkBfrg/s1209/20230805_120712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5YkEYrbfCfxr4X3x_UZDrXorYVLInmBg0VxlffBPaveWao2ycdRYAC8VTRQcC4t7YSeMaM5AdegdCOqrKpARa4dQG18PcNyrCf0q0jSuoNYDBEmNFHDqAttQ5mXpjg8gTGdaa9XecFBJ0w1btJnGG754ACsNXbrDrOf342VR7k3xGDoIYVCDvQzkBfrg/s320/20230805_120712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Intorno, oltre alle bancarelle, ci sono anche personaggi in costumi più o meno convincenti che per 140 pesos eseguono un rituale di purificazione che consiste di: fumigazioni con copale (incenso), tocchi con erbe dell'aiola, strombazzate nelle orecchie con una conchiglia musicale e formule in nahuatl. La cosa incredibile è che tantissimi, e non stranieri ma tutti messicani, si sottopongono al rituale. Oh, magari funziona. Sicuramente non meno delle preghiere levate all'altro per cui brucia l'incenso, dentro alla chiesa. Basta crederci.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisgzwrOF8VqDYkFlmTVkY4BvCoQbNUpje-oOOLBmTtgdgZtoW0Zyy7qQ2wvJTKfas3XOzw6DvvnqzHQf_fSggDrLyiFszfE7qlx7QfJUUij1_Om6UUapAkR2186tuoUh69u2tyR5USvSo5xjN88dDBi52Tr01Cp1tdzTEDiOmSdJuCfGiqgEUi4SMMXmw/s1209/20230805_120752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisgzwrOF8VqDYkFlmTVkY4BvCoQbNUpje-oOOLBmTtgdgZtoW0Zyy7qQ2wvJTKfas3XOzw6DvvnqzHQf_fSggDrLyiFszfE7qlx7QfJUUij1_Om6UUapAkR2186tuoUh69u2tyR5USvSo5xjN88dDBi52Tr01Cp1tdzTEDiOmSdJuCfGiqgEUi4SMMXmw/s320/20230805_120752.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYMAUfPAaVkDkBP-cmGbpNrxg49gUZHb6N-7G2pO0zmNqnXHtWSHUvrJB7lR7XGNDECrqkYrB-oXS8qFBNP_J2MCuZzIqy_hIvoGnuZ7q886ofmeT7LtYQZUUwwhwR13pSV7PKvvUD22jR6MgG5O2FgyapUqUaWqMSGvHXed85ag4OLEH9zh3OvUKZoBs/s1209/20230805_120755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYMAUfPAaVkDkBP-cmGbpNrxg49gUZHb6N-7G2pO0zmNqnXHtWSHUvrJB7lR7XGNDECrqkYrB-oXS8qFBNP_J2MCuZzIqy_hIvoGnuZ7q886ofmeT7LtYQZUUwwhwR13pSV7PKvvUD22jR6MgG5O2FgyapUqUaWqMSGvHXed85ag4OLEH9zh3OvUKZoBs/s320/20230805_120755.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ItJi0_b1WeZEzh64vglKA7QKNXeVvV6TANfiMwe5VEeNB38Pz53RJ_rC79rNJKeANfCrgkE4LOSyoF5ykpH0KaLGQOXCye5hUgcpZYMr25Hw0ocoTqrVJTcZwQ9Aa4DoAmUiW1yDDm06l-dd9SZbF5WzWu8FZDDJVY8ZBnfADh3GiHpJ3GrTC6k_UQY/s1209/20230805_121144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ItJi0_b1WeZEzh64vglKA7QKNXeVvV6TANfiMwe5VEeNB38Pz53RJ_rC79rNJKeANfCrgkE4LOSyoF5ykpH0KaLGQOXCye5hUgcpZYMr25Hw0ocoTqrVJTcZwQ9Aa4DoAmUiW1yDDm06l-dd9SZbF5WzWu8FZDDJVY8ZBnfADh3GiHpJ3GrTC6k_UQY/s320/20230805_121144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZtWGCMY82fXMkn17oyNPvuBEbEHu6elyv6S7XE9QhDSgFQv1AhVMIr5h7W-fhcrr2KKrwVVLH78PNLlfb7ZMVN6KwpnUspaGgxQLml1Qj6oI4NAsMCOnTccw8TGu4TTAA5tcxveK_S38osEyALJliT-n2B02dO-NL3ZaXiu_14YLweQM8qwVj9BdGl8/s1209/20230805_121146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZtWGCMY82fXMkn17oyNPvuBEbEHu6elyv6S7XE9QhDSgFQv1AhVMIr5h7W-fhcrr2KKrwVVLH78PNLlfb7ZMVN6KwpnUspaGgxQLml1Qj6oI4NAsMCOnTccw8TGu4TTAA5tcxveK_S38osEyALJliT-n2B02dO-NL3ZaXiu_14YLweQM8qwVj9BdGl8/s320/20230805_121146.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Sempre intorno alla cattedrale si trovano anche cartomanti che leggono il futuro nei tarocchi. E anche qui non mancano le persone che pagano per il servizio, perchè l'insicurezza dell'umana specie, così fragile, così consapevole della propria pochezza nel tempo e nello spazio, porta a tirar su campanili, piramidi, e montagne di frottole.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx8xqMn8oNqc0BL8Lq_uWU7mNL3OdcTxvBLgXkkQGADZfgrClCIVSqaGKHCSdLrn6Ijx2i13BFEBXtu1uvtFtNgpgAL81pfQt73dzG2qCACkxj8EuVQnD87QTxoZ-qsHfv8qB9ZM7vEvq7_lK_diKlr4f4ytnE4ab-NPSTH8S9aeTkjeqBokt8vquT4sM/s1209/20230805_124901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx8xqMn8oNqc0BL8Lq_uWU7mNL3OdcTxvBLgXkkQGADZfgrClCIVSqaGKHCSdLrn6Ijx2i13BFEBXtu1uvtFtNgpgAL81pfQt73dzG2qCACkxj8EuVQnD87QTxoZ-qsHfv8qB9ZM7vEvq7_lK_diKlr4f4ytnE4ab-NPSTH8S9aeTkjeqBokt8vquT4sM/s320/20230805_124901.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyk3yPsD8cd9CWRRGyXXnFp7F-1o8r4aI5QU55gt0pB9FPScTz41U0EhJTp8ZE7PNWjLhvhCmRBVbFVgs0pf3uBUEBmLTmM_MQPYSe5u2wnEXMestnyRhmBT-7_jl1se5I1oijY08mKVugRb4_v6NXslrHfiWRyJZCCc2LtxR6lWjTGG7bfE5IvdTvtNA/s1209/20230805_124904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyk3yPsD8cd9CWRRGyXXnFp7F-1o8r4aI5QU55gt0pB9FPScTz41U0EhJTp8ZE7PNWjLhvhCmRBVbFVgs0pf3uBUEBmLTmM_MQPYSe5u2wnEXMestnyRhmBT-7_jl1se5I1oijY08mKVugRb4_v6NXslrHfiWRyJZCCc2LtxR6lWjTGG7bfE5IvdTvtNA/s320/20230805_124904.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>E' ora di pranzo e Gigi si concede un panino al limite dello zocalo, dove inizia la famosa Avenida Madero, pedonale, che percorreremo per intero. Oltre alle folle di famiglie, gruppi di ragazzini, ambulantes, turisti e probabili borseggiatori, qui si affacciano negozi ed edifici i tutti gli stili architettonici possibili e immaginabili da chiese seicentesche a palazzi coloniali.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTwr9Hh-446WxPJbsIGpNTrKeatsQzu9271Ck9X8H1f-tIcOcmcMP55NldSoKZRZj4REyxYTtedi5s3qKcOMGQo_NU45avP7iOZmay7mr-OXM1xCarMTr-Va4kgxkdaHdUXGYpFb94_7NclEo5YyCyyAafwPjuh8Ks45tPrCGiev0J7Ixewwp76svDKj4/s979/20230805_134435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTwr9Hh-446WxPJbsIGpNTrKeatsQzu9271Ck9X8H1f-tIcOcmcMP55NldSoKZRZj4REyxYTtedi5s3qKcOMGQo_NU45avP7iOZmay7mr-OXM1xCarMTr-Va4kgxkdaHdUXGYpFb94_7NclEo5YyCyyAafwPjuh8Ks45tPrCGiev0J7Ixewwp76svDKj4/s320/20230805_134435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNawtHUSPXYZyBNGfD8v6hl36er1fJBnoSIIGVhrX8P3MzeGozEUyjiXr_I-D9gs4UX0QFRMNxSgRI_Zc0-ChmR1-973xY33aGZvlQIDEqKB8PFewJadxzy8AbMP1DaAkASs33ckDC9EWF7z2pz86rqbk67_bCuEce6tMRrky0Lz45B0jfMFEI13mrxuc/s1209/20230805_134527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNawtHUSPXYZyBNGfD8v6hl36er1fJBnoSIIGVhrX8P3MzeGozEUyjiXr_I-D9gs4UX0QFRMNxSgRI_Zc0-ChmR1-973xY33aGZvlQIDEqKB8PFewJadxzy8AbMP1DaAkASs33ckDC9EWF7z2pz86rqbk67_bCuEce6tMRrky0Lz45B0jfMFEI13mrxuc/s320/20230805_134527.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">museo de Estanquillo, della cultura pop, in palazzo neoclassico</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigILAWg1oFIdBNU1UqSK0VQMGaJo4D3N4Ctld2fu2g5RVqx6UJxVZknXzbZ1b5EyrmgH-VxW3TRxX7gPZWhZhCO86kLBNnb2jPfn4-zo-JpqNV5DAPMOJeDloyQ3qzimfp6qGZHBN1XSP3AGLgnyKUk93bLM7ZQnVYlBykrgrOexBoFYeAvMRMpexehbA/s1209/20230805_135009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigILAWg1oFIdBNU1UqSK0VQMGaJo4D3N4Ctld2fu2g5RVqx6UJxVZknXzbZ1b5EyrmgH-VxW3TRxX7gPZWhZhCO86kLBNnb2jPfn4-zo-JpqNV5DAPMOJeDloyQ3qzimfp6qGZHBN1XSP3AGLgnyKUk93bLM7ZQnVYlBykrgrOexBoFYeAvMRMpexehbA/s320/20230805_135009.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEnNcMCU5I4egfnZWrt2qFUdTUqZ55onY3YPhFsFOPGKiiuyMjBNHRA31uSfAz6wYRXj8fR5XXHMYj2aJWU3p3_hwWohgVI0I4xsG_MNnh6y3-yJtp71gcZ8TN0s7FensP7zSTClizufKR-8V6_xSuSNzFzFGOO3tBEA2I1_iQqMTcP-zJfm51UWKJKx0/s1209/20230805_135203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEnNcMCU5I4egfnZWrt2qFUdTUqZ55onY3YPhFsFOPGKiiuyMjBNHRA31uSfAz6wYRXj8fR5XXHMYj2aJWU3p3_hwWohgVI0I4xsG_MNnh6y3-yJtp71gcZ8TN0s7FensP7zSTClizufKR-8V6_xSuSNzFzFGOO3tBEA2I1_iQqMTcP-zJfm51UWKJKx0/s320/20230805_135203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgwSnBblRZYtyhb-Vq_YEJuhDYpBDvKZjunW9rozpGGU5zy1AvB0Cf3yi0WEw5CUOxeoGBI-7ioP7Hh-8ucPcEIaNhjKDeVzPFjFmFOUx28_Y3bb3AdMnQHTGTKjxjutz0S0rEl7l83RGq-6NBq0FQQUjtK1e9mHQ9or7nvh2mweop3YzxJnf8Dz6gDik/s1209/20230805_135433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgwSnBblRZYtyhb-Vq_YEJuhDYpBDvKZjunW9rozpGGU5zy1AvB0Cf3yi0WEw5CUOxeoGBI-7ioP7Hh-8ucPcEIaNhjKDeVzPFjFmFOUx28_Y3bb3AdMnQHTGTKjxjutz0S0rEl7l83RGq-6NBq0FQQUjtK1e9mHQ9or7nvh2mweop3YzxJnf8Dz6gDik/s320/20230805_135433.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">palacio de Iturbide con facciata barocca settecentesca, dal 1821 residenza dell'eroe dell'indipendenza Agustin Iturbide, imperatore per un anno fino alla proclamazione della repubblica. Alle spalle la Torre Latinoamericana, del 1956; all'epoca era l'edificio più alto di tutta l'America latina.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdNDCUJ0ZpOXUZlQUjXob-jMexNnGoqnhdOauf7EVGyHM4uIEKnqtrGDJWYowbUYztd55qyGdXl1Fgpj74Kwsvip2zkYX_XG_mVBynS43Zi42I3z7J-aME0Kh-Bzmzu7KcRIzrKSNYx4RVLG1i5QJco46FEmQhkPDOc9AQv2fItLe9OZc456a48ggj7c/s1209/20230805_135450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdNDCUJ0ZpOXUZlQUjXob-jMexNnGoqnhdOauf7EVGyHM4uIEKnqtrGDJWYowbUYztd55qyGdXl1Fgpj74Kwsvip2zkYX_XG_mVBynS43Zi42I3z7J-aME0Kh-Bzmzu7KcRIzrKSNYx4RVLG1i5QJco46FEmQhkPDOc9AQv2fItLe9OZc456a48ggj7c/s320/20230805_135450.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFMDtkRh_qvd59ikQWot3qvdJJYluFyLoqABxv0yv3dwIdfawH-yoY7TYlnYzwBOgfW3pHd4eKJv_Hy7sqAVzW1zf2FaQx6h6T8YNj-Tz2KjQuPIO-NkjeUccI51H0zHjn6UwfqolUJ8FM1pFhfmqMlfc-cAmNRvJyDHUBT9OgeLWykUUqgCEjU04P3A/s979/20230805_135652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFMDtkRh_qvd59ikQWot3qvdJJYluFyLoqABxv0yv3dwIdfawH-yoY7TYlnYzwBOgfW3pHd4eKJv_Hy7sqAVzW1zf2FaQx6h6T8YNj-Tz2KjQuPIO-NkjeUccI51H0zHjn6UwfqolUJ8FM1pFhfmqMlfc-cAmNRvJyDHUBT9OgeLWykUUqgCEjU04P3A/s320/20230805_135652.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">templo de San Francisco, ciò che resta del monastero secentesco costruito sulle rovine dello zoo di Montezuma</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWtvCWvPtRN5cJHeVlHR_F_DdJ2gl0MRYR231mI_z6vVFOuoMRTMn7OgiMrHGQXfc8xjtbhxLs9-aTgeq5KENey3FjQdLknvbOAfjLaxR1bwLa7zBNCeldcm5PUMoA7AgvmpuxhFTuhi5Tdw-KT0mAW-bIqxBb5XjvmohMrnqpU8YRMUfLBX7H-Yd55I/s1209/20230805_135945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQWtvCWvPtRN5cJHeVlHR_F_DdJ2gl0MRYR231mI_z6vVFOuoMRTMn7OgiMrHGQXfc8xjtbhxLs9-aTgeq5KENey3FjQdLknvbOAfjLaxR1bwLa7zBNCeldcm5PUMoA7AgvmpuxhFTuhi5Tdw-KT0mAW-bIqxBb5XjvmohMrnqpU8YRMUfLBX7H-Yd55I/s320/20230805_135945.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKDa7XJbqqYcj2b1PLebUxs2wSOR5HgB8YeEvl79kq8uABIi3ArL7jVGsvp0CtYUQMwZg0wxO5GwEehWQQzUgK2yfgFVSR_Q4XUiiWcSKQDaWjyg0ERngsrx3VcQg3wnrxHsEjnIsBVpTR4O2iE8vP2_JhCcITF-qZIB4wKZPpMrUgQqskLA-uRMkUFY/s1209/20230805_140101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKDa7XJbqqYcj2b1PLebUxs2wSOR5HgB8YeEvl79kq8uABIi3ArL7jVGsvp0CtYUQMwZg0wxO5GwEehWQQzUgK2yfgFVSR_Q4XUiiWcSKQDaWjyg0ERngsrx3VcQg3wnrxHsEjnIsBVpTR4O2iE8vP2_JhCcITF-qZIB4wKZPpMrUgQqskLA-uRMkUFY/s320/20230805_140101.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilk-fNtcWOLSQ9YRzfcBq5n73OGi9p18EmzHaFb7Id5NHF4lx4GB1P3kEUWyfWRfkWfYm5shUvMmFb96_5rv5DOhpj-FI8AjilmoZjG3u2ea5ZHuENRpDwc-j-c4j3qNuYx2j-uZA9xm1Ir0ZeKPdanE51j8WZlGUu1mnne7pSPx2puG9hgHHqVFqqXr8/s1209/20230805_140135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilk-fNtcWOLSQ9YRzfcBq5n73OGi9p18EmzHaFb7Id5NHF4lx4GB1P3kEUWyfWRfkWfYm5shUvMmFb96_5rv5DOhpj-FI8AjilmoZjG3u2ea5ZHuENRpDwc-j-c4j3qNuYx2j-uZA9xm1Ir0ZeKPdanE51j8WZlGUu1mnne7pSPx2puG9hgHHqVFqqXr8/s320/20230805_140135.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoP5Ciz_OEA8KErtVh7Na7kU24tWuXtYVsBMazIq8ylhRpPwvGBkw8_5jGRENsV_Gu3hGucS9ZLpzXVthL1Mn98fjBR7eeHy7qmeWaof1nIh2XsbsXtVVbxkiLVZctwz5GOBSaA3KFPzc8M5NCgGpkgiJFJoCI2zAkjJaLgcKMTmsXX4af4Vtb2idjQX8/s1209/20230805_140217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoP5Ciz_OEA8KErtVh7Na7kU24tWuXtYVsBMazIq8ylhRpPwvGBkw8_5jGRENsV_Gu3hGucS9ZLpzXVthL1Mn98fjBR7eeHy7qmeWaof1nIh2XsbsXtVVbxkiLVZctwz5GOBSaA3KFPzc8M5NCgGpkgiJFJoCI2zAkjJaLgcKMTmsXX4af4Vtb2idjQX8/s320/20230805_140217.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLj8bAicumIzOpYdQ-yx-1hMT4lqoNmP4_oJhIEpyODYK6y46K3JXrxZmzy_xhBlcWwY5qRkFzVs5E2zwstl2VLkvwiLHIPOHsEPjn2DG-SL4zFs34qrOmwI5-OU9OPAHqOuycgelY4xP5IN7sNq_tkissDq65WAS2YrGN2EmGLGXuGKj_oLuWyJrbm0/s1209/20230805_140649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLj8bAicumIzOpYdQ-yx-1hMT4lqoNmP4_oJhIEpyODYK6y46K3JXrxZmzy_xhBlcWwY5qRkFzVs5E2zwstl2VLkvwiLHIPOHsEPjn2DG-SL4zFs34qrOmwI5-OU9OPAHqOuycgelY4xP5IN7sNq_tkissDq65WAS2YrGN2EmGLGXuGKj_oLuWyJrbm0/s320/20230805_140649.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">casa de los azulejos, del 1596. Le piastrelle vengono dalla Cina, traspotate sulle naos, i galeoni spagnoli da Manila</td></tr></tbody></table><br />La nostra passeggiata prosegue sull'Alameda Central, aperta dal sontuoso Palacio de Bellas Artes, iniziato nel 1905 per volere di Porfirio Diaz su progetto dell'architetto italiano Boeri, che amava lo stile neoclassico e l'at noveau. I lavori furono interrotti perchè il peso del marmo faceva sprofondare l'edificio e perchè scoppiò la rivoluzione. Ripresi negli anni '30, furono portati a termine con intrusioni di stile art deco. All'interno sono esposte opere di Rivea, Tamayo Orozco e altri grandi artisti messicani.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7u4-P7__AHOc-y1vRGAfMcOAyQWNn4Ac7_W4niGVuV0SRGU1nkiS-MUpUrvxaKI-MhvxKlnDT6Ey8Y2eIJXk07kEl6XUGTywyfR8cPipN3QR_-By3y_5WOQDUbtabZoLnFo4bpaGBAmKwsuGsqQYKYZCe7o0frb-4OdoT613Wg79G3o3QUWJiB6hicW0/s1209/20230805_140940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7u4-P7__AHOc-y1vRGAfMcOAyQWNn4Ac7_W4niGVuV0SRGU1nkiS-MUpUrvxaKI-MhvxKlnDT6Ey8Y2eIJXk07kEl6XUGTywyfR8cPipN3QR_-By3y_5WOQDUbtabZoLnFo4bpaGBAmKwsuGsqQYKYZCe7o0frb-4OdoT613Wg79G3o3QUWJiB6hicW0/s320/20230805_140940.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6mDZB1VKXzNaAXQgyAdvr8BYQ1jF6Tx8-2NbXsV4DHyHJtHsrSnT7UaCONTP45wA2nd8yqOybcW2xZ6prprHCNh9Yj5ZgpQSMNTW4wRPtBgCgc3xgWxe33MHy4mNHAqzKyf_DHGkIdONbpaLwFE3WFlhNd72d5SyxTalVG1qlVwOo-xldDGiHCce5PqI/s320/20230805_141339.jpg" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVNSgSzVzpH3LJHHUVaChnk1z6YSZwF7VirHOdc0KlvVy28xYNHQk4TEA453y8tbjf6CNhB6HqItA_K-qye4KJluCthGc7VRDmvcs2hMEJI1M0F0UjWXPvWSd4w9ZAVmcHN8TtRvA7YuLMC0Vo-vaThAenDLOlYsdOK6hTP7_bdQrlalCKXWzwadZnAOw/s320/20230805_141644.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div>Mentre ammiriamo l'edificio, in strada esplode il trambusto: un gruppo di poliziotti ha fermato un furgone. Due ragazze scendono e iniziano a urlare contro gli agenti, filmandoli con i telefoni. La folla sui marciapiedi inizia a gridare parteggiando ora per gli uni ora per le altre. L'autista non scende e grida, fa per proseguire ma i poliziotti si piazzano addosso al mezzo: se partisse, farebbe una strage. Dei ragazzini iniziano a correre intorno al furgone, lanciando dentro pacchetti misteriosi. Il traffico sui vialoni si congestiona ulteriormente. In un momento di calma, l'autista fa una retromarcia folle, andando contromano su una strada immensa a quattro corsie stracolma di mezzi e persone. Poi cerca la fuga accelerando in avanti, ma il traffico è tale che rimane intrappolato. Le ragazze e i ragazzini scappano a piedi nelle vie intorno. Gli agenti saltano sul furgone, tirano giù di forza l'autista e intanto arrivano i rinforzi. Scena da film! Qualcosa mi dice che sul quel mezzo c'è giusto un po' di droga. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Aeu1lbQLxNETXYyfEPlnqVL97VA5l4iNsQ5MwlHl0N1Zm72K9Dqo5NpcklpxsFfoD9CWEcxb4iGOC-O9L-G80VHNgBJ3FaF5pSrbMszse9kYozAIKzKewz78QMwlh9vHBnbdntR2nuU5db91DqTytPwaIvWpjfvDNOsGHeVR3XZVki4rvEhxeLeLn7Y/s1209/20230805_141104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Aeu1lbQLxNETXYyfEPlnqVL97VA5l4iNsQ5MwlHl0N1Zm72K9Dqo5NpcklpxsFfoD9CWEcxb4iGOC-O9L-G80VHNgBJ3FaF5pSrbMszse9kYozAIKzKewz78QMwlh9vHBnbdntR2nuU5db91DqTytPwaIvWpjfvDNOsGHeVR3XZVki4rvEhxeLeLn7Y/s320/20230805_141104.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTE67lisXijc60qQ1SfU251gs9UZHx0dJ2F-X3-Vhb76BdMJkmHYw-vaFuA73S4mY2sWNin5j1RleQIUYc2orumbqB4csRF3oeQwIuZXctOU5yOiEhgyJL74UUlC5TiwhjGWGF-6jkfNbXbOvoXDg3o3Cyo6_o2IWuDgOOnl6Tu7B7Dy7_Ts7d6tRQXNE/s1209/20230805_141120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTE67lisXijc60qQ1SfU251gs9UZHx0dJ2F-X3-Vhb76BdMJkmHYw-vaFuA73S4mY2sWNin5j1RleQIUYc2orumbqB4csRF3oeQwIuZXctOU5yOiEhgyJL74UUlC5TiwhjGWGF-6jkfNbXbOvoXDg3o3Cyo6_o2IWuDgOOnl6Tu7B7Dy7_Ts7d6tRQXNE/s320/20230805_141120.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0TdCA8Z0REmKs-HWy8CGkUFvaxhgL7Tw7iUj7gFgvBzV45f3R9yASAhrwgDB4VCrD6c81SFnAOH3_UEVJtgeXei-lkh7pgaw5eCZeuLRXVsn1Yl_iTcuRMJoXIskuJe8dppyfltKZVRjbHSvqM6cbxuz31jA7cBRvNGH3pSG3DhxpB6BBuiSAqmv1nFw/s1209/20230805_141219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0TdCA8Z0REmKs-HWy8CGkUFvaxhgL7Tw7iUj7gFgvBzV45f3R9yASAhrwgDB4VCrD6c81SFnAOH3_UEVJtgeXei-lkh7pgaw5eCZeuLRXVsn1Yl_iTcuRMJoXIskuJe8dppyfltKZVRjbHSvqM6cbxuz31jA7cBRvNGH3pSG3DhxpB6BBuiSAqmv1nFw/s320/20230805_141219.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7vrRE4bIDqCyuLuBsgH39HlGe3KkP2aOcMA7OTHJZX6Uys_w5e_1edgphbIAPGSuC-aK455Jb-MdEeSudvNkaadNDoq_jE_n68xARflZApnRYhEBVGWmyFyDVk43n1ksMLdyWnAKRzXRaYEsXxeyFHiHF0UuIBiSpcH7t1oagZ9fN5oy5ow5ZHz5MB4/s1209/20230805_141802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7vrRE4bIDqCyuLuBsgH39HlGe3KkP2aOcMA7OTHJZX6Uys_w5e_1edgphbIAPGSuC-aK455Jb-MdEeSudvNkaadNDoq_jE_n68xARflZApnRYhEBVGWmyFyDVk43n1ksMLdyWnAKRzXRaYEsXxeyFHiHF0UuIBiSpcH7t1oagZ9fN5oy5ow5ZHz5MB4/s320/20230805_141802.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">porta di China Town</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Proseguiamo costeggiando l'immenso parco Alameda Central, realizzato alla fine del XVI secolo per volere dell'allora vicerè e impreziosito, nel XIX secolo, con statue e lampioni a gas. Era il luogo di ritrovo privilegiato dell'elite cittadina, ed è tuttora oasi tranquilla con mercatini e ampi spazi per godersi una passeggiata nel verde. I bimbi approfittano delle fontane anche pe farsi un bagnetto rinfrescante.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_EMQEDscyDM7bmScVPKkdGiaNEqoZfIJfvWLYx9cEGWG-fy9C7htdlN6VIPr3wshSCtTb09enidh-sqOKIO_DlPvgL2I_jyXHTwYNf6UJrM8SDBZHUVFw5DFvWf2qT2lq8ACV2eJKHe1kaNMzFC-gkbdmZ3mKspIjDoIOK-ZPMmrYuM4AUTxR_fLsKU/s1209/20230805_141948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_EMQEDscyDM7bmScVPKkdGiaNEqoZfIJfvWLYx9cEGWG-fy9C7htdlN6VIPr3wshSCtTb09enidh-sqOKIO_DlPvgL2I_jyXHTwYNf6UJrM8SDBZHUVFw5DFvWf2qT2lq8ACV2eJKHe1kaNMzFC-gkbdmZ3mKspIjDoIOK-ZPMmrYuM4AUTxR_fLsKU/s320/20230805_141948.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPhNVLbdaine9xsmc9uUJLMqku3Te6X3L-t5yWzedTpDznwD2TyQeT3WxAsueX0K7rM1Tb8Jj4eE5iTXNlT5UIq0QTcOEqt5Xsg-3yeRuHcl0WJEBR5P_AyFpXuZ-VDs3dqMbbtzUH-cjoQWr0zcfrH059vQWcRRt48GnWFYRE_2wsIaN3p4i8plHwCE/s979/20230805_141954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPhNVLbdaine9xsmc9uUJLMqku3Te6X3L-t5yWzedTpDznwD2TyQeT3WxAsueX0K7rM1Tb8Jj4eE5iTXNlT5UIq0QTcOEqt5Xsg-3yeRuHcl0WJEBR5P_AyFpXuZ-VDs3dqMbbtzUH-cjoQWr0zcfrH059vQWcRRt48GnWFYRE_2wsIaN3p4i8plHwCE/s320/20230805_141954.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5NqXLg39gUU0JpXz1Z82OvqNgiKql9DOgGPSBz2tM0ef0RfGR1JzbvZ69nK8x8-eT17M_H-NDYXcb9820pXdNS6rIkp7DOPpuWHl3opI1--Vs_7xlcsicFAhbtguzfaFDtR5UMOpWB802wjKqnMhQ4LYFZDi9MREfVe0rCKT62XUw5lIcg4559TfH3_Q/s1209/20230805_142241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5NqXLg39gUU0JpXz1Z82OvqNgiKql9DOgGPSBz2tM0ef0RfGR1JzbvZ69nK8x8-eT17M_H-NDYXcb9820pXdNS6rIkp7DOPpuWHl3opI1--Vs_7xlcsicFAhbtguzfaFDtR5UMOpWB802wjKqnMhQ4LYFZDi9MREfVe0rCKT62XUw5lIcg4559TfH3_Q/s320/20230805_142241.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6R4kKWPCPcU6jVXqKn4rNjP1ggRusbEodiJxeBlAMHuSLH77ip3HPK4Ws_u2uLsayguqXbqFStY-qFOH4a5O9QgMnL8z_u6aDS1sPkErQg0eMo8D8FJYkAx1nMBzFC0XmN4ytRG7rbauVc4kW5TvC-C4BmDK7p7neZb0jsOQule18G7ccmfyMzntDPDs/s1209/20230805_142748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6R4kKWPCPcU6jVXqKn4rNjP1ggRusbEodiJxeBlAMHuSLH77ip3HPK4Ws_u2uLsayguqXbqFStY-qFOH4a5O9QgMnL8z_u6aDS1sPkErQg0eMo8D8FJYkAx1nMBzFC0XmN4ytRG7rbauVc4kW5TvC-C4BmDK7p7neZb0jsOQule18G7ccmfyMzntDPDs/s320/20230805_142748.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh321XpUo9KfDx4L6VNQ_OTwk_jNC1rCK262GiZW0F5jLnnmRda_HMnBJW0h9KInldNIepD_wOFimELAzttI3MsNtc3Ms3X7CRsMNbZpysh3yB_oecH8zKLxng4ro7oGLx4sRH8IGcQRyBsI3gcw7ib57EjBammylQ_GenHCmw5t3jrEahe2c4YpiTROnw/s1209/20230805_142811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh321XpUo9KfDx4L6VNQ_OTwk_jNC1rCK262GiZW0F5jLnnmRda_HMnBJW0h9KInldNIepD_wOFimELAzttI3MsNtc3Ms3X7CRsMNbZpysh3yB_oecH8zKLxng4ro7oGLx4sRH8IGcQRyBsI3gcw7ib57EjBammylQ_GenHCmw5t3jrEahe2c4YpiTROnw/s320/20230805_142811.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizvbevDb3f9ba--xyfzw9kHI7yuLNuEP4U_Ifxn9VfNhzsjWogiTXXm2JFW30Nh8Egn4rQvdkJdBxgED8_ovUSJRqwLJkcyY9c2PDysG6DvGlHrdokyiAcfK_dQjrxplgtPurXU96Z8aW59txx5lW41Le6C_eCcRzQh0FveXh8d2GZidITkqKTmsyY8xc/s1209/20230805_143747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizvbevDb3f9ba--xyfzw9kHI7yuLNuEP4U_Ifxn9VfNhzsjWogiTXXm2JFW30Nh8Egn4rQvdkJdBxgED8_ovUSJRqwLJkcyY9c2PDysG6DvGlHrdokyiAcfK_dQjrxplgtPurXU96Z8aW59txx5lW41Le6C_eCcRzQh0FveXh8d2GZidITkqKTmsyY8xc/s320/20230805_143747.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">coppetta di mais bollito con burro e formaggio, la mia merenda presa a un baracchino per rimettere alla prova il mio sistema immunitario</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1yjhuElk_2pwPgSlX9fKfaHIUOvoPdRvslS6LOc5xOLZC60gGHq6dq399rW3NSTzn2mrmDj95i-uhysGgQU_oWH4qvjJWTwc53pHCxEv5JE_aTUVBf7diY_bIuY1WekdXcBWdwtr11eJHopFRX_x2dP7qoyaFm5YxH7dMgE986IpL6fuX8eBGGUvz4c/s1209/20230805_144801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1yjhuElk_2pwPgSlX9fKfaHIUOvoPdRvslS6LOc5xOLZC60gGHq6dq399rW3NSTzn2mrmDj95i-uhysGgQU_oWH4qvjJWTwc53pHCxEv5JE_aTUVBf7diY_bIuY1WekdXcBWdwtr11eJHopFRX_x2dP7qoyaFm5YxH7dMgE986IpL6fuX8eBGGUvz4c/s320/20230805_144801.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">anche qui si leggono i tarocchi</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Arriviamo in Plaza Juarez, con i suoi grattacieli, simbolo della riqualificazione del quartiere dopo il terremoto del 1985. Da qui proseguiamo verso Plaza de la Republica.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuawZay_QYO5F3LzXgomurD_VEgrK-hqtHUCvnF6KBI-WgJqnVFf5MTesOFPnZwUxGJJXePVUjyolbWu6bvFeop2qGfJw98eBax2gRqe9vRzgvTFQL5kPFjC0iZ7rE8MUwDKJ6j-Lw5I0rJVRSxcj_Y4MSV3cs6zNpcXj-Ol1EUhk6cOyC6tLA5tbUgmk/s1209/20230805_145133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuawZay_QYO5F3LzXgomurD_VEgrK-hqtHUCvnF6KBI-WgJqnVFf5MTesOFPnZwUxGJJXePVUjyolbWu6bvFeop2qGfJw98eBax2gRqe9vRzgvTFQL5kPFjC0iZ7rE8MUwDKJ6j-Lw5I0rJVRSxcj_Y4MSV3cs6zNpcXj-Ol1EUhk6cOyC6tLA5tbUgmk/s320/20230805_145133.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8V_fq0YUI8C6V2-cIYaEz6-qUFOyU0k_zFf5S8AlbHtpLM3nnYlqXUWGoMs2K-FZ0HTq6JQ2XUDTNMGz0VVv5BnH5zzcnu843KPOHK2BhJyCZQLMz9IHE6w58Cs0AmyJR0adpwucktTf7mDXVWBULPMcxnrpTELroTE3nQevs2AC7q_OobzKGIK_Few/s1209/20230805_145144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8V_fq0YUI8C6V2-cIYaEz6-qUFOyU0k_zFf5S8AlbHtpLM3nnYlqXUWGoMs2K-FZ0HTq6JQ2XUDTNMGz0VVv5BnH5zzcnu843KPOHK2BhJyCZQLMz9IHE6w58Cs0AmyJR0adpwucktTf7mDXVWBULPMcxnrpTELroTE3nQevs2AC7q_OobzKGIK_Few/s320/20230805_145144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">La troviamo in pieno fermento per una fiera del libro che occupa uno spazio immenso. Gli avventori sono tanti, cosa che mi fa pensare che tanti siano i lettori, che è sempre un buon segno. Seminascosto tra i tendoni ecco il Monumento a la Revolucion, inaugurato nel '38. Ospita le spoglie degli eroi della rivoluzione, tra cui Pancho Villa. Con un ascensore si può salire ad ammirare il panorama dall'alto. Sotto al monumento ci sono dei gruppi improvvisati che imparano passi di danza da maestri altrettanto improvvisati, principalmente tiktoker intenti a filmarsi nella sontuosa cornice.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1O5Fu6nekYwuMdq_FGsOKrhnXfH5FkHY7Mc_8Mvduvw0IFJWf8jr2w-lnm8Yh4MvqUgJRb94Be1rWApAlGQ2TEl34avgmkERkm5eJlfNMMTY97Of4or9-lP0ZzXa77ARkCDeHDA8DH0Aiyb-q5UXcwd7Ss6cNaKa68wGQinRVlSUTXmcLnRGnrsLuX8/s1209/20230805_145935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1O5Fu6nekYwuMdq_FGsOKrhnXfH5FkHY7Mc_8Mvduvw0IFJWf8jr2w-lnm8Yh4MvqUgJRb94Be1rWApAlGQ2TEl34avgmkERkm5eJlfNMMTY97Of4or9-lP0ZzXa77ARkCDeHDA8DH0Aiyb-q5UXcwd7Ss6cNaKa68wGQinRVlSUTXmcLnRGnrsLuX8/s320/20230805_145935.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDk5RbMPxEzvzYeqCwCBsQJLbthWMxwUCzHs3swCf4sStiiabzwd63mHDhL5CxA7ltM0kFuIvGx89KlqaD2MtVJ4REzOJCWAnKAYv56PCpbX_R5kYeTIFUd-_L_98wdhp_LrflYugoHwAooOqBHBdiJ7y_m_Wp9XwhnoK6K2Lfl3X63OpZXmgexEnOGQ/s1209/20230805_150006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDk5RbMPxEzvzYeqCwCBsQJLbthWMxwUCzHs3swCf4sStiiabzwd63mHDhL5CxA7ltM0kFuIvGx89KlqaD2MtVJ4REzOJCWAnKAYv56PCpbX_R5kYeTIFUd-_L_98wdhp_LrflYugoHwAooOqBHBdiJ7y_m_Wp9XwhnoK6K2Lfl3X63OpZXmgexEnOGQ/s320/20230805_150006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7VD7jqZRyWjcNSb8wC5bv-8AtIPxOPxEfgK5fYR4aHsIv4-HhUJu7Mq7efdW7GH4n1XK6_75HLhyqykKAVODD_WVR0ybSa5m2EYlxDYV4WmIztRIBMB66qcSh_-JtyE1MbQTrH88OE1q7BJLwIBbc47SuB3qvROhkLXURy3Q5rGsfNOwBM3XY76POXY/s1209/20230805_150131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7VD7jqZRyWjcNSb8wC5bv-8AtIPxOPxEfgK5fYR4aHsIv4-HhUJu7Mq7efdW7GH4n1XK6_75HLhyqykKAVODD_WVR0ybSa5m2EYlxDYV4WmIztRIBMB66qcSh_-JtyE1MbQTrH88OE1q7BJLwIBbc47SuB3qvROhkLXURy3Q5rGsfNOwBM3XY76POXY/s320/20230805_150131.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYmPNgT7WWHo2FIEkqStMou3kWpDlUMSqsXuHig5_hOh0MCdQluDeaNAs68AjpMbwEoq2LSqLMLdMHnUlRxJjdNPv13vYtRP5D-7p6Zo4BwmWKX33cDl9spGvUuKLEuegjmk0Spt1R0Rg6mgdEQkQ9mu34_TaoJ4n7mruN9S7HZntGnicljsFv524V9VI/s979/20230805_150407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYmPNgT7WWHo2FIEkqStMou3kWpDlUMSqsXuHig5_hOh0MCdQluDeaNAs68AjpMbwEoq2LSqLMLdMHnUlRxJjdNPv13vYtRP5D-7p6Zo4BwmWKX33cDl9spGvUuKLEuegjmk0Spt1R0Rg6mgdEQkQ9mu34_TaoJ4n7mruN9S7HZntGnicljsFv524V9VI/s320/20230805_150407.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOEGXFpcojlBoEIkYnpCK6ucdE8hWQPxdAHGEfG8tD96n86QCUfY6_t0nE24Sn6fZ7cqQFDOmiseNtKEaf3J9Trl8KgIWiI1hj12FpplQbnV4jgU8Wy08JJDZLmNGxJDTjFz1Y75ujoQ3fLcrvpXdaW6saGhRtPMfpbjvdIIhwLwLhx3t_qsPm-QWr1I/s1209/20230805_151507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOEGXFpcojlBoEIkYnpCK6ucdE8hWQPxdAHGEfG8tD96n86QCUfY6_t0nE24Sn6fZ7cqQFDOmiseNtKEaf3J9Trl8KgIWiI1hj12FpplQbnV4jgU8Wy08JJDZLmNGxJDTjFz1Y75ujoQ3fLcrvpXdaW6saGhRtPMfpbjvdIIhwLwLhx3t_qsPm-QWr1I/s320/20230805_151507.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Viene il momento di prendere un bus urbano per raggiungere il quartiere di Chapultepec (collina delle cavallette). Siccome siamo sprovvisti della tessera per il pullman, obbligatoria per caricare le corse, l'autista ci fa salire a gratis quando gli chiediamo dove si acquisti. Percorriamo l'elegantissimo Paseo de la Reforma e scendiamo davanti all'ultimo nostro punto di interesse di oggi, il Museo nacional de antropologia. Questo è immerso nel parco più grande della città, un tempo residenza estiva dell'elite azteca, poi spagnola (vedasi il castillo che sorge sulla collina) e oggi messicana.</div><div><br /></div><div>Noi ci "limitiamo" al museo, che è sconfinato e meriterebbe di essere visitato in due o tre giorni. Al pianterreno ci sono le sale dedicate ciascuna a una cultura preispanica. Al piano superiore alle attuali culture indigene che ne derivano. Sono impressionanti le ricostruzioni a grandezza naturale di alcuni templi rinvenuti nei siti di tutto il Messico, oltre a pezzi di incredibile bellezza.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3_0obvEq3MFr1Iw0BXwYolvX_tlH_H6QyR_QIY5ipbRZlmRQl6XJPpOv0fq4rISyNPLngZ35ghCegZB45p29kc3BzjmAzFWjz_-KAdTBv0Q-wj3_l2vNSarmF1CKEFiluYE5gN33EnoI76PYeMVPu_9YaS7vTWYVWCRp6-aj0H6zlbWaYuStdDRfnNs/s1209/20230805_154734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3_0obvEq3MFr1Iw0BXwYolvX_tlH_H6QyR_QIY5ipbRZlmRQl6XJPpOv0fq4rISyNPLngZ35ghCegZB45p29kc3BzjmAzFWjz_-KAdTBv0Q-wj3_l2vNSarmF1CKEFiluYE5gN33EnoI76PYeMVPu_9YaS7vTWYVWCRp6-aj0H6zlbWaYuStdDRfnNs/s320/20230805_154734.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwLFqvtZuqGYy9HjHNG3iFQ-Uxokn7HXEJvSV23COt_TQhVLed0lrrv2AU-e9iae8kGFrnrtpJvUDfSfI4ZnTnWFsKvSGkZNrfLYiDAkqCQi8GWn0bgKTawAUtReF7oYLcHgO5-zcIyi7kHqOz1_K7_sMZqGh-TCqj_8d-DDErUrGuMeVMZ8OEs_XCHl8/s1209/20230805_161014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwLFqvtZuqGYy9HjHNG3iFQ-Uxokn7HXEJvSV23COt_TQhVLed0lrrv2AU-e9iae8kGFrnrtpJvUDfSfI4ZnTnWFsKvSGkZNrfLYiDAkqCQi8GWn0bgKTawAUtReF7oYLcHgO5-zcIyi7kHqOz1_K7_sMZqGh-TCqj_8d-DDErUrGuMeVMZ8OEs_XCHl8/s320/20230805_161014.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhalWAoGNcm8ty1ugyG5yHJHuUX_tAKY0dahiHI4TsAl3L2GAkgvpgHGo425M9O_akA8MPnlY9pTlx8QKaTsYH5a_wwv-QqOtXQo1xCdtg8iq9TZ13ERQLFYLF8Le4MM6S5VMJ7eYR35kDBb6f6kQkeOV2WkhD-iqbMl67gbhkCFIKRVUMupjHUJUByUnI/s1209/20230805_161112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90sTGR_TbMwfaxuUr9qs8Tc6shmFQuDgx0whIsjB57gz7NpycKVZpFhKA56nYztU9owT_cQL6PXX1KSodE1WHcHTpwbpAsC6fa38NEdvvSc9kDwc6hWResJXJTht_4iWzIzUqhka98FgSWhm2dNLVMrKCO04VxlcZPF37XnjMvKPBwaiHWECgVBcZ54M/s320/20230805_161457.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1kkSt6E7E5yI5qFq5sKrMjwB7GYuxrNenBgmS4fxeD0acUoc9PpxiVH34BX3g4crQKPFPiI7hWjnesVs_JbDMp19PfWPT9aP5RhELxfy9UGvkVa6GCrw351oX_Zhqm_zx7ho8txGXY5bP0I6sINC5cc-nzAfH2uvE8nb83XG0DZc2rgXgtK0cQXCMGI/s1209/20230805_161539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1kkSt6E7E5yI5qFq5sKrMjwB7GYuxrNenBgmS4fxeD0acUoc9PpxiVH34BX3g4crQKPFPiI7hWjnesVs_JbDMp19PfWPT9aP5RhELxfy9UGvkVa6GCrw351oX_Zhqm_zx7ho8txGXY5bP0I6sINC5cc-nzAfH2uvE8nb83XG0DZc2rgXgtK0cQXCMGI/s320/20230805_161539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2FZj51O5KRPfsGC-ZdM0SXcAHM6F5v_lPsm3zcuvxcmov9MKm0ZIvji9W9uXwPDW4qu8WLWbBxmbtujG2NmMWKC04Yn95SqVFnHRHns5rxRsw9aoq9xItCKbQGZAnEu6rjB2iu_F5eCIFApcXf4NuKAqI6XL4r7586tXRnSSaV385n2NdCkH6p3KQaM/s1209/20230805_162123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2FZj51O5KRPfsGC-ZdM0SXcAHM6F5v_lPsm3zcuvxcmov9MKm0ZIvji9W9uXwPDW4qu8WLWbBxmbtujG2NmMWKC04Yn95SqVFnHRHns5rxRsw9aoq9xItCKbQGZAnEu6rjB2iu_F5eCIFApcXf4NuKAqI6XL4r7586tXRnSSaV385n2NdCkH6p3KQaM/s320/20230805_162123.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">guerriero aquila</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4NuM8AdgC9A1zxCSLT7opLTxE5lo6gD21SmZke1jt-hwqlbotY2eVLdXaaMoroMVKAAY6MAdBJyE2j_AdkznZkl1UXfb4Z1mp1ZM8ds0LnDUjEs7y8Iwy5foQPfEgbpJVvNdtAko7JuoRNGAEk08ZFZlkpH-hNok5PnfmPrU0MzcvOzQXobaFzwXru00/s1209/20230805_162135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4NuM8AdgC9A1zxCSLT7opLTxE5lo6gD21SmZke1jt-hwqlbotY2eVLdXaaMoroMVKAAY6MAdBJyE2j_AdkznZkl1UXfb4Z1mp1ZM8ds0LnDUjEs7y8Iwy5foQPfEgbpJVvNdtAko7JuoRNGAEk08ZFZlkpH-hNok5PnfmPrU0MzcvOzQXobaFzwXru00/s320/20230805_162135.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">guerriero leopardo</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXlrt0ZmEMNpM3E82t7PtGXZO3vdRhKvBWbqgrHjUgKMyLgEhdRExnsDJNcY6HaZQG9q0wPFsG3hpjZoHI-dIibVuyBA2qFV2uMDn6VjyAYzGaIek8kNJSatr97Yl5GgzyA81B5eJz_6EmvxPb9N9EVacnFTg-aNoNRBYN2OA3DhbAQ6F6qwhCTrQLx8/s1209/20230805_162330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXlrt0ZmEMNpM3E82t7PtGXZO3vdRhKvBWbqgrHjUgKMyLgEhdRExnsDJNcY6HaZQG9q0wPFsG3hpjZoHI-dIibVuyBA2qFV2uMDn6VjyAYzGaIek8kNJSatr97Yl5GgzyA81B5eJz_6EmvxPb9N9EVacnFTg-aNoNRBYN2OA3DhbAQ6F6qwhCTrQLx8/s320/20230805_162330.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwVszp4uVWgXDDEIjmf-ugZJCHVWwkvSMD7VmoS1b_UL1WMNA5EEAOba93NJ5MgCJ2QM75pZhayIvKTotu90YCe1dmrb1aDky0pftCWX2SOIqjbfhDxV7hU-JkiSMAFAqcZggELuBC20r7P6ODn1JL9gJjlHZA2g1fFvosKehRTWVSLwmab9nVg7Of3Y/s1209/20230805_162543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwVszp4uVWgXDDEIjmf-ugZJCHVWwkvSMD7VmoS1b_UL1WMNA5EEAOba93NJ5MgCJ2QM75pZhayIvKTotu90YCe1dmrb1aDky0pftCWX2SOIqjbfhDxV7hU-JkiSMAFAqcZggELuBC20r7P6ODn1JL9gJjlHZA2g1fFvosKehRTWVSLwmab9nVg7Of3Y/s320/20230805_162543.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRQXX0jkiX5GQUlbqh_-b_9muiu2C7a0-J-TuEwxRxwNHa2F6XxcEE5VsaXuhkvR3Jd8HOMW5VLr2Sv8Ax_SUz_7ah9H6KbyyeZVYvwGZmvGzd9rDjDPEa3G-LUOWj5vZ3rl3PYjmmPYCqUV9S-tmLnXUaPwsIdB_fAB-p-Hk8xJ5-eyalrVLvLOJ_Z5o/s1209/20230805_163032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRQXX0jkiX5GQUlbqh_-b_9muiu2C7a0-J-TuEwxRxwNHa2F6XxcEE5VsaXuhkvR3Jd8HOMW5VLr2Sv8Ax_SUz_7ah9H6KbyyeZVYvwGZmvGzd9rDjDPEa3G-LUOWj5vZ3rl3PYjmmPYCqUV9S-tmLnXUaPwsIdB_fAB-p-Hk8xJ5-eyalrVLvLOJ_Z5o/s320/20230805_163032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPEc0f7OH0r-i3AM12ryRp-CiDanq4kUMBag3iRGkIwlJLkKqTzAPkasjqY37ueBbTvE-z_SsMtZpqLVho_tLy2Q78HF6V6FoWQnJzjUgqVUUmQ6ADv8aupTmLx4KGYNRoy561FllGwV9J1NJNthZ0DrWLgzfTMhnpVuJ7i4kLPyd2RMcUFcrYwt6Y2s/s1209/20230805_163125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPEc0f7OH0r-i3AM12ryRp-CiDanq4kUMBag3iRGkIwlJLkKqTzAPkasjqY37ueBbTvE-z_SsMtZpqLVho_tLy2Q78HF6V6FoWQnJzjUgqVUUmQ6ADv8aupTmLx4KGYNRoy561FllGwV9J1NJNthZ0DrWLgzfTMhnpVuJ7i4kLPyd2RMcUFcrYwt6Y2s/s320/20230805_163125.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzYp3hyS9wfoqTKT6B61PQkPpUPDBnGGqmbSSB2GEf2NUP3fRE2N-m6ULOVdUkP_XTJypcwW8Z_-HtigEu6X5ZS0X_7DrLZMbaBKC1YZo7puw6X-XxmgCZge5uHkgI8SCxz4jAeC3rCvFMliPd-jTbtMS3UhIYGsOGFK4FiZjku7QRBYgNdQXRnkA9CRo/s1209/20230805_163831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzYp3hyS9wfoqTKT6B61PQkPpUPDBnGGqmbSSB2GEf2NUP3fRE2N-m6ULOVdUkP_XTJypcwW8Z_-HtigEu6X5ZS0X_7DrLZMbaBKC1YZo7puw6X-XxmgCZge5uHkgI8SCxz4jAeC3rCvFMliPd-jTbtMS3UhIYGsOGFK4FiZjku7QRBYgNdQXRnkA9CRo/s320/20230805_163831.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTnzdkBQocQR5OOxdPAPJc1hq_RY_5A_6QYunIUAPq5RRNIZiu0IEFYKcDFEPQOTunF72Ut1PXOgnjk9K1fyMpl2IkYl-If1H-2OKLmHF49kU-vmuBZBxvjMXcnWIpua_zgquFeB96QejHz9cWWuSS_KgE--wA8fAygPvKVimTGgAqYEbvNFKxKPjeRH0/s1209/20230805_163926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTnzdkBQocQR5OOxdPAPJc1hq_RY_5A_6QYunIUAPq5RRNIZiu0IEFYKcDFEPQOTunF72Ut1PXOgnjk9K1fyMpl2IkYl-If1H-2OKLmHF49kU-vmuBZBxvjMXcnWIpua_zgquFeB96QejHz9cWWuSS_KgE--wA8fAygPvKVimTGgAqYEbvNFKxKPjeRH0/s320/20230805_163926.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la famosa Pietra del sole, rinvenuta sotto lo zocalo nel 1790, da cui prende il titolo l'opera da Nobel di Octavio Paz</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpt6LYBzPwmaFd1t6OjuSWvqlsaYNJXgL5iQR-M3HIfGPG90BfiA4im_kL7dI7mXR0Krg5VsGABhVGLMcu9Dy4QSv3DPvhapYgVpSbBIo5JbRCQF5fH5e4BesZKoe305WiClcvoU6jH0hSVGpV009pnsOeD9BwDSOWsDbRH42nJZEy3L8SxOMk18RM38k/s1209/20230805_164208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpt6LYBzPwmaFd1t6OjuSWvqlsaYNJXgL5iQR-M3HIfGPG90BfiA4im_kL7dI7mXR0Krg5VsGABhVGLMcu9Dy4QSv3DPvhapYgVpSbBIo5JbRCQF5fH5e4BesZKoe305WiClcvoU6jH0hSVGpV009pnsOeD9BwDSOWsDbRH42nJZEy3L8SxOMk18RM38k/s320/20230805_164208.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImwonJhiBo0c_VDHV_1aLSvWCOQkFmR08YdmPpRMR1y3o93WdiAeUkctonTxXRQWY3N-n5FlpSTgkbMTk63cBN6C0xGY05xKCmPBYZI4je7oSf4eYZg712Jw_849bXu7VrmhAUtYAqrk15TNmDEfiWPwkXLXUQtCnaMRPBduVTpNBZqrqvwqPixnItAY/s1209/20230805_164325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImwonJhiBo0c_VDHV_1aLSvWCOQkFmR08YdmPpRMR1y3o93WdiAeUkctonTxXRQWY3N-n5FlpSTgkbMTk63cBN6C0xGY05xKCmPBYZI4je7oSf4eYZg712Jw_849bXu7VrmhAUtYAqrk15TNmDEfiWPwkXLXUQtCnaMRPBduVTpNBZqrqvwqPixnItAY/s320/20230805_164325.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicUun_8SB1hH6e8nsHJe3loAx3C42tEtQ55WWg5Mn2jbMW0Comg118vu1T0TtwBpv056fH6mMRTYv-7dPCAsumeIqI_H7hUqLbiwDVSSarevV0x3_tsXpX0LfM58evNcnzsCtzO7PcD_iORJUtbRmkhvDEXHwxY2ibXhCUJCRjfvfvy7-ZZlQhafuTjek/s1209/20230805_164638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicUun_8SB1hH6e8nsHJe3loAx3C42tEtQ55WWg5Mn2jbMW0Comg118vu1T0TtwBpv056fH6mMRTYv-7dPCAsumeIqI_H7hUqLbiwDVSSarevV0x3_tsXpX0LfM58evNcnzsCtzO7PcD_iORJUtbRmkhvDEXHwxY2ibXhCUJCRjfvfvy7-ZZlQhafuTjek/s320/20230805_164638.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYnAxPKNXy9XEF_ND1hK-dNmLTnbfGg1j2JJ3rdBiM2EBmN4EDU9NnjyC53XWtvYQjyX1zrmPMi3b46JBeK4LTNyhTqUJjk5rdOPWglPK_YUh3k1sMHNCw6Bek9_JGEKNnaMgbFT2OPmRByV3jCYOc5sM9G5PcI71zFS1IxQdHCegpOy1j1KfjOuM2YTs/s1209/20230805_165133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYnAxPKNXy9XEF_ND1hK-dNmLTnbfGg1j2JJ3rdBiM2EBmN4EDU9NnjyC53XWtvYQjyX1zrmPMi3b46JBeK4LTNyhTqUJjk5rdOPWglPK_YUh3k1sMHNCw6Bek9_JGEKNnaMgbFT2OPmRByV3jCYOc5sM9G5PcI71zFS1IxQdHCegpOy1j1KfjOuM2YTs/s320/20230805_165133.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmvXE4QMpeJyoEBAdM1HSyKf6J5-K-bdUEnoQBA6sHc9JAm5TbbQozaswg3rLnbj8C4K-cig2AXAiHHHCGFZkU6WIbDiNagChXQJTyd1jeDEgMO3JC2_1bKi_TX3BjKCWrNco-i25kqVQHE8mkEL_TDXDLeqxKwwTf8QfIG_2D56enmP14xCXMWK1-dU0/s1209/20230805_170059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmvXE4QMpeJyoEBAdM1HSyKf6J5-K-bdUEnoQBA6sHc9JAm5TbbQozaswg3rLnbj8C4K-cig2AXAiHHHCGFZkU6WIbDiNagChXQJTyd1jeDEgMO3JC2_1bKi_TX3BjKCWrNco-i25kqVQHE8mkEL_TDXDLeqxKwwTf8QfIG_2D56enmP14xCXMWK1-dU0/s320/20230805_170059.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ieSHc1ueS36IUpHKnq9oODQHaXeRJxKTPWRVHvsJe-FFVVZ-oygzfZPAPPK_zmhr37dWHqMTfdPvJYQkvzvXMaDWvd-giTheISnRrVxMeJ_KLedRr3ZE3Xixhggj7Ic-BnH2Im7TJGPJRW2zIMjAZescQRAWENQ1-nh64Qz7KZ_Vn908RF8FXPMaUr8/s1209/20230805_170430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ieSHc1ueS36IUpHKnq9oODQHaXeRJxKTPWRVHvsJe-FFVVZ-oygzfZPAPPK_zmhr37dWHqMTfdPvJYQkvzvXMaDWvd-giTheISnRrVxMeJ_KLedRr3ZE3Xixhggj7Ic-BnH2Im7TJGPJRW2zIMjAZescQRAWENQ1-nh64Qz7KZ_Vn908RF8FXPMaUr8/s320/20230805_170430.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">alcuni codici perfettamente conservati</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdnXOP-Zr_woeyAwq48Pjxg-ExMaSXL8YU4YI-p8VJs5xUpqn6YMu_aSI4c2V1WMd4EOtFuWPkYabUakRWaYei0Ie48p-h1Q-AXjsZ63FUCTVi6zFFVLGYeiplehbk1m54feTbtH5KkJpIcPuam_X35ZyajZ3tVy6XugeiJzuVrRm8nX_0DTVtPcWvVY/s1209/20230805_170438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdnXOP-Zr_woeyAwq48Pjxg-ExMaSXL8YU4YI-p8VJs5xUpqn6YMu_aSI4c2V1WMd4EOtFuWPkYabUakRWaYei0Ie48p-h1Q-AXjsZ63FUCTVi6zFFVLGYeiplehbk1m54feTbtH5KkJpIcPuam_X35ZyajZ3tVy6XugeiJzuVrRm8nX_0DTVtPcWvVY/s320/20230805_170438.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIoe2E0m90f_g0YEOsKAU9QqYPbyPcL2daTLtsGBi8PTzItPTZV4i7dllP7BwOtEmgZw4Zhyw5cH7DYT1N_CoHnC6zH-FW8WgCPBz4QrU_EPwnuahMkFia46Mi7tILHuHAjrnT0mvmNpQI2HDEcxJdoobS6TpbA5oUpDdNZG5LeTbIdMPA4aXc0fQ-L-Y/s1209/20230805_170831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIoe2E0m90f_g0YEOsKAU9QqYPbyPcL2daTLtsGBi8PTzItPTZV4i7dllP7BwOtEmgZw4Zhyw5cH7DYT1N_CoHnC6zH-FW8WgCPBz4QrU_EPwnuahMkFia46Mi7tILHuHAjrnT0mvmNpQI2HDEcxJdoobS6TpbA5oUpDdNZG5LeTbIdMPA4aXc0fQ-L-Y/s320/20230805_170831.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">testina olmeca da 20 tonnellate</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyI-JlWkdOS8t16UIhSnnMTljs_b_KNdlvpsLy2xhaLV5wl5xLAGXwB2aCgY87LIC0MVoGncxY4cxtLnyc89O6P6RYYneTztI95IppIKpqlomnGA1GsysY4YwcxeJfMrUbskpXKUEJN-U1sRrd4174OeEQ8jG-0rVz13eP7_krzX8o_tfqzb2a5a8OPls/s1209/20230805_171733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyI-JlWkdOS8t16UIhSnnMTljs_b_KNdlvpsLy2xhaLV5wl5xLAGXwB2aCgY87LIC0MVoGncxY4cxtLnyc89O6P6RYYneTztI95IppIKpqlomnGA1GsysY4YwcxeJfMrUbskpXKUEJN-U1sRrd4174OeEQ8jG-0rVz13eP7_krzX8o_tfqzb2a5a8OPls/s320/20230805_171733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCaQeB87vUOm-iZs4IAxTIweFhRiAytaBALvF37bIL8mCapOVgOEGAFmtQb3JyDqglsSj7x_2oxFkzohHTLqsBf0foNfxEK6NfvZPkTcSfCK249G4Fr9MhYstALGnyeyE_UOTVMVD8JtzoN_3GmfQx6bu5rpbgoBuLAb3ybsxWzwxkcGcQIZaNVW2-0A/s1209/20230805_171806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyCaQeB87vUOm-iZs4IAxTIweFhRiAytaBALvF37bIL8mCapOVgOEGAFmtQb3JyDqglsSj7x_2oxFkzohHTLqsBf0foNfxEK6NfvZPkTcSfCK249G4Fr9MhYstALGnyeyE_UOTVMVD8JtzoN_3GmfQx6bu5rpbgoBuLAb3ybsxWzwxkcGcQIZaNVW2-0A/s320/20230805_171806.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NkcPY-BSKNCWmaxGBoumw2g6mwKI_U0lOgYESBbUeFqkSI3_qFHMujVL3NbqKqJhrAERoRs2VNGZ_zHnPnD_nOFVuf-R33URL6RGiMzVNke9OCUnpzXsBtaQXQQJa6Yns4drD77VcdFcWLdac91fjTpJvBOXo1y7-EP0SSGEZ-ua1ngnRpAmP26N9wA/s1209/20230805_172336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NkcPY-BSKNCWmaxGBoumw2g6mwKI_U0lOgYESBbUeFqkSI3_qFHMujVL3NbqKqJhrAERoRs2VNGZ_zHnPnD_nOFVuf-R33URL6RGiMzVNke9OCUnpzXsBtaQXQQJa6Yns4drD77VcdFcWLdac91fjTpJvBOXo1y7-EP0SSGEZ-ua1ngnRpAmP26N9wA/s320/20230805_172336.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciamo dal museo sfiniti, ma appagati e soddisfatti della giornata densa. Tutto ciò che di bello potevamo vedere nel tempo a nostra disposizione, lo abbiamo visto, e goduto, e assorbito anche attraverso la lunga passeggiata in questa città dai mille volti. Fuori dal museo altri danzatori aztechi accompagnano il nostro ritorno. Inizia a piovere, forse tutte queste cerimonie hanno risvegliato tlaloc.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5rHudyU_SNH3FonZcOAx6CIAOmD4mKiFuc5ItkzCvv_lwciV7zfmNPdzVxOVnF-NmA8vjL3lETTRu6OhiUhkw9fWDUV8TR-8TAnUEBZYRWPobKwA5T4YSVVYZJ9vYfxZ8BbMZmlb6LVdo864kJ3wM-Ul1wagF5O32tCeFgI6eAXMBXQgCrAQhQIYqm7U/s1209/20230805_173037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5rHudyU_SNH3FonZcOAx6CIAOmD4mKiFuc5ItkzCvv_lwciV7zfmNPdzVxOVnF-NmA8vjL3lETTRu6OhiUhkw9fWDUV8TR-8TAnUEBZYRWPobKwA5T4YSVVYZJ9vYfxZ8BbMZmlb6LVdo864kJ3wM-Ul1wagF5O32tCeFgI6eAXMBXQgCrAQhQIYqm7U/s320/20230805_173037.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPdCYNTu4kGsAA8I2B42Jq6Ali1ipgDsV2Kn2opn-Dioy5wPpabFsrlDbd4fIZdLfGftT4YKm0MNgVdFrahvD7BMLpb1FAS6cKimiOl53fdfac90GAhrqEUaLYGsSYZ-p0RTqMvXMNa3NDXht5sjcLsjQMKVRvdUzfEcRrXOLkjJXCFAI2R8ubb1y048/s1209/20230805_173050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPdCYNTu4kGsAA8I2B42Jq6Ali1ipgDsV2Kn2opn-Dioy5wPpabFsrlDbd4fIZdLfGftT4YKm0MNgVdFrahvD7BMLpb1FAS6cKimiOl53fdfac90GAhrqEUaLYGsSYZ-p0RTqMvXMNa3NDXht5sjcLsjQMKVRvdUzfEcRrXOLkjJXCFAI2R8ubb1y048/s320/20230805_173050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDEi9pauY1AG3IPnglfrTBhjvxzEJcnG520UspI8SpdYAjlTioTqflpF3WPYpGSS2IIGLwzbJ512lWKGJRZHUjkrrKuFW75RTxEUBKmbpAgbixEAKY4s73PeOjNFjNRUjLN6sZYEOEzyWobe3wK0hqr_N35GGv9X7hh86N6Pr5uWBzYfeOcwzQeL-bZ4/s1209/20230805_175504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtDEi9pauY1AG3IPnglfrTBhjvxzEJcnG520UspI8SpdYAjlTioTqflpF3WPYpGSS2IIGLwzbJ512lWKGJRZHUjkrrKuFW75RTxEUBKmbpAgbixEAKY4s73PeOjNFjNRUjLN6sZYEOEzyWobe3wK0hqr_N35GGv9X7hh86N6Pr5uWBzYfeOcwzQeL-bZ4/s320/20230805_175504.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">monumento a la Independencia</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Rientrati in ostello ci dedichiamo a faccende prosaiche, come il bucato e la logistica dei mezzi per domani. Abbiamo deciso di visitare Teotihuacan in autonomia, senza tour guidati (che han prezzi gonfiati e includono sempre anche degustazioni di mezcal o altri alcolici che non fanno per noi e tentativi di vendita, che sottraggono tempo alla visita delle rovine). So che sui bus diretti al sito archeologico ci sono state rapine a mano armata, ma credo sia una rara eccezione. Spero.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Tra una sessione di scrittura e l'altra ci godiamo una ricca cena, sempre nel ristorante dell'ostello. Questa è la faccia di Gigi quando scopre quanto è grande il piatto di grigliata mista (pollo, verdure, formaggio) servita su pietra rovente che abbiamo ordinato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixjtIDE8QrXn-C0ORBzn7oBZ5R1XS946YftRGAwrF6UiQMNbD5Ytk6Pv4IAsYic4GWDMrQaxqZQ3yfQKmITQ37RykBa4jwRK1uHs2Pqr9m-xrMa3UFKm3CLErDM-mrKCXCyNkRD4mLgXTXYpxMuniD2zmpwjFQt3XZ4sPI7Q6QtiaHjWCy_xZW_JkJjQo/s1209/20230805_205349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixjtIDE8QrXn-C0ORBzn7oBZ5R1XS946YftRGAwrF6UiQMNbD5Ytk6Pv4IAsYic4GWDMrQaxqZQ3yfQKmITQ37RykBa4jwRK1uHs2Pqr9m-xrMa3UFKm3CLErDM-mrKCXCyNkRD4mLgXTXYpxMuniD2zmpwjFQt3XZ4sPI7Q6QtiaHjWCy_xZW_JkJjQo/s320/20230805_205349.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Questi invece sono il frutto dello shopping di oggi: ossicini intagliati a forma di cranio di corvo, puma e teschietto. 0.7 euro l'uno, un affarone!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Spch1FPYfOrwbXLivCfCHw2c9-vkvmDpJDp7bRJ0vSk4EQYen1zq7xhtrD1FUDi3BdggVqzQx9p-c2pX5xTqKjIrQ596zXsWENiRBJYMObVUjfLlK2rzvXUMmAMOCQ3f1sX_i6qMf_Bx26d7PneDt5HSsflrmJtibjxmmFZdXJiIZuIhOVzO8im5uKU/s989/20230805_220158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Spch1FPYfOrwbXLivCfCHw2c9-vkvmDpJDp7bRJ0vSk4EQYen1zq7xhtrD1FUDi3BdggVqzQx9p-c2pX5xTqKjIrQ596zXsWENiRBJYMObVUjfLlK2rzvXUMmAMOCQ3f1sX_i6qMf_Bx26d7PneDt5HSsflrmJtibjxmmFZdXJiIZuIhOVzO8im5uKU/s320/20230805_220158.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-43244281920016529152023-08-03T07:19:00.000+02:002023-08-03T07:19:21.360+02:0040-42. Puebla! Incontri felici, paesaggi mozzafiato, canyon, cactus e 1kg di limoni<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVFoN7PDURJ1Y1w8EjqavoMpNW1kvGMg5bJ4tkXaw2zp0bcy9Rk9htHk5B4Ld87UAF0LlN-xlj1ZVD9br9PNPzuAF4U4L1W8TciZxUCYjAeXU5cEmsyGSF2IFt3RiAg--g05piHYkYyuPsZfUQhWmf6ffKWAdEYJe4H-UEk3DfzRg5Bz_4Uk1tKvINAtc/s1209/20230801_102856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVFoN7PDURJ1Y1w8EjqavoMpNW1kvGMg5bJ4tkXaw2zp0bcy9Rk9htHk5B4Ld87UAF0LlN-xlj1ZVD9br9PNPzuAF4U4L1W8TciZxUCYjAeXU5cEmsyGSF2IFt3RiAg--g05piHYkYyuPsZfUQhWmf6ffKWAdEYJe4H-UEk3DfzRg5Bz_4Uk1tKvINAtc/w640-h480/20230801_102856.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4uqyF2fuZGez3uzP-3O-trNgYwwiTcAPDw_4wdYUqb0SHTpdsDDqDQX042ljfLu3ikn84q-83hQhixNDhM4hbI4w8cjHzaYPLJJ4Tb0zuXcEiep8HCxw2ZgEnKyGczwbKL8a41ycYlgJ0hkPsiQT-2DhwLF54xevV86E-ddpSZAftH1L-gnwzsGKBsEs/s2048/IMG-20230801-WA0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4uqyF2fuZGez3uzP-3O-trNgYwwiTcAPDw_4wdYUqb0SHTpdsDDqDQX042ljfLu3ikn84q-83hQhixNDhM4hbI4w8cjHzaYPLJJ4Tb0zuXcEiep8HCxw2ZgEnKyGczwbKL8a41ycYlgJ0hkPsiQT-2DhwLF54xevV86E-ddpSZAftH1L-gnwzsGKBsEs/w640-h480/IMG-20230801-WA0023.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju7eaJq4m-OVSTfgdkwrUGrY2AFwTSIZuWjdp5ymo9li1XT-qB-g63gKT9J3-0QMxpTuleAPzA16JcQM2PVo8zrFg9oKdKWUNTWRAn8CGfqY4LPwfRzRGdLG3F8ygcphylCGXcDLV0p9XjYKRx9AIaOW5o4PZ0_LD-XZEpvRj0YitDZczaKwx0LLNpJDs/s1209/20230801_123805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju7eaJq4m-OVSTfgdkwrUGrY2AFwTSIZuWjdp5ymo9li1XT-qB-g63gKT9J3-0QMxpTuleAPzA16JcQM2PVo8zrFg9oKdKWUNTWRAn8CGfqY4LPwfRzRGdLG3F8ygcphylCGXcDLV0p9XjYKRx9AIaOW5o4PZ0_LD-XZEpvRj0YitDZczaKwx0LLNpJDs/w640-h480/20230801_123805.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGec26cCFgXUmCTAJ-2z54gdyKgUQ2Feu6w2AqR2I03fJmysIYL4T-iHuK0vrAyFWwC2uIljLLu-YcYPb4mGGSHcPtDkk0YFPLQurltQeapSN02gfyLr4KdHHF0adarV_Ufnx3y-Ze_6vPaC4j00SEyvp35sTxwk8So3ilKe371X72thg20e0fRdRk8CQ/s979/20230731_100702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGec26cCFgXUmCTAJ-2z54gdyKgUQ2Feu6w2AqR2I03fJmysIYL4T-iHuK0vrAyFWwC2uIljLLu-YcYPb4mGGSHcPtDkk0YFPLQurltQeapSN02gfyLr4KdHHF0adarV_Ufnx3y-Ze_6vPaC4j00SEyvp35sTxwk8So3ilKe371X72thg20e0fRdRk8CQ/w640-h480/20230731_100702.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRLYD4jYhPJqagW5dMmQBa2HE_zDmPHTBcg5xo0uYpz3tbLs6vkujM2Gscq5WIt0OOZVwJ7EBbtDqVc6pxKd1DkYzGvkNjbRLGL_Pq4rfV3YFKsgnAUQGpH14O7A7516XRENK3jO7pbHqC0bHDGAxxsRDN-N0YwLbRBXNlez2Y964JFA1I8Q7omRSZbKk/s979/20230731_141041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRLYD4jYhPJqagW5dMmQBa2HE_zDmPHTBcg5xo0uYpz3tbLs6vkujM2Gscq5WIt0OOZVwJ7EBbtDqVc6pxKd1DkYzGvkNjbRLGL_Pq4rfV3YFKsgnAUQGpH14O7A7516XRENK3jO7pbHqC0bHDGAxxsRDN-N0YwLbRBXNlez2Y964JFA1I8Q7omRSZbKk/w640-h480/20230731_141041.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQG70E359OCoG988_NZ_WP4sCsZBM6BxBWsfc3EP23cT9TPA8g9YJWhhT8kSedI9VQ9gCbs6xUhUPyB64PhhrFayLcddYvTZclW4FHx97R5mI22uJ9pTekqUQQdxlA2XVAZFKi57AGfvcnKPzCTk_MLeNFUfyytMLTmh6DcgoZSpMn0U7D-xsY8-SwIg/s1209/20230731_143739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQG70E359OCoG988_NZ_WP4sCsZBM6BxBWsfc3EP23cT9TPA8g9YJWhhT8kSedI9VQ9gCbs6xUhUPyB64PhhrFayLcddYvTZclW4FHx97R5mI22uJ9pTekqUQQdxlA2XVAZFKi57AGfvcnKPzCTk_MLeNFUfyytMLTmh6DcgoZSpMn0U7D-xsY8-SwIg/w640-h480/20230731_143739.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtAbVQ8tXAqaBdPq1G-mHaMAQVH2WyubApJWVIqCoiev248cII0isLJ9IUlXFZ1KyHr4vwhGCY667pgxzvBwFRKYgCC4CsFfbj5Sa4aJgXGUS8EB1GCB91h0Y-zwPsjKROlf4yLAyQ8epZsyVxqpJOhTung9ikDdBrI6azNzVoCGjGQNjk-WMPlBUPC9o/w640-h480/20230801_161255.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLpUms_T723L-BOWguynn3QJTZqeYUYz6AFnl7l0rVVjrBQwRyZ_UKaTsBBSypiTiSwfZ5rzpCeimZvQ5w_C2uEPVSzQXLDsBNy2htiUGMJpPrjd8NIXf-65yXnyi_9xvCJeZHK-g8TE1rxWHR0wcHXFBEKqRkDmjiSozvrebcSDWfQgy2Hvxm0_W8ro/s1209/20230801_083702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLpUms_T723L-BOWguynn3QJTZqeYUYz6AFnl7l0rVVjrBQwRyZ_UKaTsBBSypiTiSwfZ5rzpCeimZvQ5w_C2uEPVSzQXLDsBNy2htiUGMJpPrjd8NIXf-65yXnyi_9xvCJeZHK-g8TE1rxWHR0wcHXFBEKqRkDmjiSozvrebcSDWfQgy2Hvxm0_W8ro/w640-h480/20230801_083702.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>31/7<div>Oaxaca de Juarez-San Juan Bautista Cuicatlan</div><div>119km</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La supertappona di oggi un po' ci angustia, e decidiamo di alzarci presto e partire il prima possibile, pur nel rispetto dei sacrosanti orari della colazione, che sono ferrei, inamovibili come la signora che la prepara. Quindi chiudiamo le borse, carichiamo le bici e prepariamo tutto. Poi Gigi, con una decina di minuti di anticipo rispetto all'apertura della sala da desayuno, si affaccia per vedere se ci sia già qualcuno. In ciò, tira una sonora craniata al vetro della porta, così pulito da non vedersi (a detta sua). Il tonfo allarma la cuoca, che si affaccia e ci apre prima del tempo. A volte basta poco!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oggi veniamo deliziati con enchilladas con salsa di fagioli e queso de Oaxaca; Gigi è restio, per cui ne mangio io doppia porzione lasciandogli i pancake con miele variegato di moschini, sempre tipo ambra, come ieri. Satolli e carichi, partiamo. Ciao Oaxaca! E' stato un enorme piacere conoscerti. Sei uno dei tasselli indimenticabili di questo puzzle chiamato Messico. Arrivederci! E ce ne andiamo, mentre dalla vicina piazza giunge il suono di una banda di ottoni che intona una marcetta. Chissà cosa si festeggia oggi... Sempre che si debba trovare per forza un motivo. Magari si fa festa per far festa, la motivazione è intrinseca.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEGjUiApIFejAyoW0G0KWAgrJwXJrX9RRYZGog1mIi4_2HPon-N-WNYzOcmdOfKrSS34YXKF-pAoBQD7wJDyEVmOIdEJZTZdpXI0oXsnsn7_jbJQBL8L9mp1vm-cXopEiuv2Bn1MRrrGt00jpJjQ857Yj5f_pcM1nI9-XSpGJ8cTX6LiU6srytkPHdKE/s1209/20230731_072623.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSEGjUiApIFejAyoW0G0KWAgrJwXJrX9RRYZGog1mIi4_2HPon-N-WNYzOcmdOfKrSS34YXKF-pAoBQD7wJDyEVmOIdEJZTZdpXI0oXsnsn7_jbJQBL8L9mp1vm-cXopEiuv2Bn1MRrrGt00jpJjQ857Yj5f_pcM1nI9-XSpGJ8cTX6LiU6srytkPHdKE/s320/20230731_072623.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dai miei dettagliati studi altimetrici risulta che i primi 38km siano poco più che pianeggianti, solo mossi da un saliscendi ora più acuto, ora più dolce, che ci porta a guadagnare e perdere 200m di dislivello. Uscire dalla città è facile, perchè i vialoni sono una raggera che si dipana da poco oltre il centro verso le valli, a nord e a sud, senza gran curve o snodi. Certo, il traffico non manca e il fondo è impestato di buche, tombini enormi aperti, mucchi di sabbia o asfalto distrutto. Bisogna prestare attenzione a taxi, colectivos e mototaxi, che fanno manovre allucinanti in un continuo strombazzare di clacson. Ma camion, bus e auto passan larghi e ci lasciano in pace. I perri mali ricompaiono subito dalla periferia, ma ormai tra strilli e lanci di oggetti vari siamo dei professionisti della tecnica del finto attacco e fuga. La volpe scappa dai cani da caccia, è storia nota. Ne vediamo molti anche spiaccicati, freschi, semidecomposti o quasi fusi con l'asfalto. Vi lascio immaginare l'aroma.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Puntiamo inizialmente dritti a nord, verso la valle Etla, che significa, letteralmente, terra di fagioli in nahuatl. Qui ci sono alcuni paesini noti per i loro mercati e per l'artigianato, soprattutto la lavorazione della ceramica, e qualche sito archeologico di recente scoperta, non ancora del tutto restaurato (come Santa Maria Atzompa). Attraversiamo Villa de Etla, che dà nome alla valle. Questa zona era abitata da zapotechi, ma la città è stata fondata tra Cinque e Seicento dai domenicani, di cui resta traccia nella chiesa. La città è nota per i festival, soprattutto a base di cibo e fiere, che si svolgono in occasione delle festività cristiane. L'instabilità politica e le proteste degli ultimi anni, tuttavia, hanno avuto ripercussioni negative sui servizi e lo stato delle infrastrutture (basta vedere come sono conciate le strade!). Qui nell'Ottocento si è anche combattuta un'importante battaglia contro l'esercito di Napoleone III.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugLzDEFGPuNnaADGeedA4xITvOOhM3SQEv0uWz6Rwku59YK477XhLRNUzjyT_4bwy5LwGBFWCXnCjDPofec5Qczd1qmkscC0gJVSTAx6SA3bfIGy58vbU9Xi9epMjCdFr0ydsGXkGe2tQkkW7DyiGShZwm4-12Dusim4wpvUaem3DCQBbShypNMp3Y1Q/s320/20230731_093522.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La statale che risale la valle confluisce, ai primi pendii, nell'autostrada. Poco prima noi la lasciamo per una via più piccola e tortuosa che si inerpica sui monti. Il traffico scompare del tutto in un battito di ciglia e i paesi si diradano. Intorno solo verde di campi e coltivazioni d'agave o mais, che tende al blu chiaro del cielo. Da ogni parte, intorno e davanti, alture coronate di sbuffi chiari di nubi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTNqCauyaS7lLlDLPx3xmgKxLqtwvnyEyGUaSkhfyFyKiOOYnOOIYnmclwgZPYtNv5MwWkHwAa5SZJ3FqaYIN62OEir2pV5plAcaJEbxW-CTO5q8ik4t8TayOl_hp7OdwYOHJ8fc764i6Al4WHnZfOSIKPDi-duEhi9QCrwbFaRxyVhQ3vrL50rrgx5M/s1157/20230731_091308.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="868" data-original-width="1157" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTNqCauyaS7lLlDLPx3xmgKxLqtwvnyEyGUaSkhfyFyKiOOYnOOIYnmclwgZPYtNv5MwWkHwAa5SZJ3FqaYIN62OEir2pV5plAcaJEbxW-CTO5q8ik4t8TayOl_hp7OdwYOHJ8fc764i6Al4WHnZfOSIKPDi-duEhi9QCrwbFaRxyVhQ3vrL50rrgx5M/s320/20230731_091308.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDcjY_7aDa7AzXjCPxLyUEOYQJNM8VmSUs87COw1kArVvkB1SAYFvGZMHD-VKUdZGTO1ajc-CQdE0vqGH6MNtibqsWSUYeleV5fh6YPdEHVSaYTxAd7M71B1_WOqmE3_aCOC2NoDo7eagnGs5Eia2rm1l_6JPTxMqn8R7-blMySuW7_PTVTLxKWQ-dmE/s1209/20230731_091323.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDcjY_7aDa7AzXjCPxLyUEOYQJNM8VmSUs87COw1kArVvkB1SAYFvGZMHD-VKUdZGTO1ajc-CQdE0vqGH6MNtibqsWSUYeleV5fh6YPdEHVSaYTxAd7M71B1_WOqmE3_aCOC2NoDo7eagnGs5Eia2rm1l_6JPTxMqn8R7-blMySuW7_PTVTLxKWQ-dmE/s320/20230731_091323.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PjflKsx3G7sFntxufeF_zdGHro6PM12tZtzkdiWLRNiDfe8xd_eCjZTXDEkrpyTINrchkzdIfmjwJ0HAWIvXj_fVZzo4UOihKpYiAzKTWV4bd_-9Lj2d18LBUcEWv-V0Rlhbm_PJm5AR34MRiILTDfe0UGcxfPELX9ZegFJksZYbC4JEpmRwgEB6Fs8/s1209/20230731_091357.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PjflKsx3G7sFntxufeF_zdGHro6PM12tZtzkdiWLRNiDfe8xd_eCjZTXDEkrpyTINrchkzdIfmjwJ0HAWIvXj_fVZzo4UOihKpYiAzKTWV4bd_-9Lj2d18LBUcEWv-V0Rlhbm_PJm5AR34MRiILTDfe0UGcxfPELX9ZegFJksZYbC4JEpmRwgEB6Fs8/s320/20230731_091357.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAXJ3Qem5a0XX-OOhfC3LMiBhxXcNvp22k2tkzofOaIGBN5VElwAnCkdXUVUB00339rrfvpzlG208GN1Ve_d_2M7C_XVTJJM7CqlhVQ7MMQjEc8u7BuXkyrDuQuvacv0XQPczehlmI02eSNlG215aIQxcsCnPkdEAVPClN2SKgKHQ-LNRjMdALbSjbfS8/s1061/20230731_091400.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="1061" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAXJ3Qem5a0XX-OOhfC3LMiBhxXcNvp22k2tkzofOaIGBN5VElwAnCkdXUVUB00339rrfvpzlG208GN1Ve_d_2M7C_XVTJJM7CqlhVQ7MMQjEc8u7BuXkyrDuQuvacv0XQPczehlmI02eSNlG215aIQxcsCnPkdEAVPClN2SKgKHQ-LNRjMdALbSjbfS8/s320/20230731_091400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOebP8W0S7n2OaRx2-vy5uChSki2DTXoDnW7DP_x5N3ylgkvNQ9MCH--4pssHMJ-j4GNgeg0wx_bRpf59StLaZmc0o36juyJKwEuJBPzR9icNLEDzkkmfkO3We7mOl5iW3EPNu3MGMV1WwKAMwKujFSlgJsikn7kiwxOtmEVV-17U77yRSjSCsAupyi4/s1209/20230731_094003(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJOebP8W0S7n2OaRx2-vy5uChSki2DTXoDnW7DP_x5N3ylgkvNQ9MCH--4pssHMJ-j4GNgeg0wx_bRpf59StLaZmc0o36juyJKwEuJBPzR9icNLEDzkkmfkO3We7mOl5iW3EPNu3MGMV1WwKAMwKujFSlgJsikn7kiwxOtmEVV-17U77yRSjSCsAupyi4/s320/20230731_094003(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhruYd2kgCrCD12DLge8kMK-eTLq8Pac0ctXlE5jlDAuiHiJY5ozwjg6q3_2jvMnnqWIAV4XawClRKbHEDucaDDRQGyFlF36sHmijmlRiEbr2NZE4fPpygKOpGrR3dyO2nIKQH0kKIFn9yWsWFZVi2KN04wUldHTU2Daqgy_7CxoVwTkDeLYwUTn6jF6B0/s1158/20230731_094012.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="709" data-original-width="1158" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhruYd2kgCrCD12DLge8kMK-eTLq8Pac0ctXlE5jlDAuiHiJY5ozwjg6q3_2jvMnnqWIAV4XawClRKbHEDucaDDRQGyFlF36sHmijmlRiEbr2NZE4fPpygKOpGrR3dyO2nIKQH0kKIFn9yWsWFZVi2KN04wUldHTU2Daqgy_7CxoVwTkDeLYwUTn6jF6B0/s320/20230731_094012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfthpRdF7AxPqaYmqVx4xDDH_PF3jUTs5PIAmtjNrSMn9yuYsiawJkftLZV1IHlxdPw2ksL0Gx5rfSGkAJ5gT396Mc3waw6LADIVT3G4EViJe3YjBCajnhVutwLa_H7WwHFlwBqdZVm8Ripl0yaUzgXDN9CJ8-IQH1RRRZVGkqsRqHhL8-l8Z6Plij3QE/s1209/20230731_094530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfthpRdF7AxPqaYmqVx4xDDH_PF3jUTs5PIAmtjNrSMn9yuYsiawJkftLZV1IHlxdPw2ksL0Gx5rfSGkAJ5gT396Mc3waw6LADIVT3G4EViJe3YjBCajnhVutwLa_H7WwHFlwBqdZVm8Ripl0yaUzgXDN9CJ8-IQH1RRRZVGkqsRqHhL8-l8Z6Plij3QE/s320/20230731_094530.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">San Francisco Telixtlahuaca segna il confine tra valle e sierra. Lo attraversiamo, apprezzandone i murales e le strade invase da mucchi di asfalto scrostato e accatastato, che danno lavoro a una specie di nonno vigile munito di fischietto che dirige in modo assolutamente casuale il traffico, mentre ognuno fa da sè e il caos regna.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr8sEzrMWEv-JIN3oUDR8Uj1JL9kViTKCc6_s_EqCzRA5xmrOOlznfKRHnjIAYJ3uHNbKkiWsIFC4MqGgTtXRNKMe4jU4-SZjSNHUUTy2paiNLEYurKlco6vreCn5Ds-QB54UTGukav9OOPSUYyn4sVClEI65uBQWzogs3_OzWvoav2MCDYzeIG86p51o/s979/20230731_100702.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr8sEzrMWEv-JIN3oUDR8Uj1JL9kViTKCc6_s_EqCzRA5xmrOOlznfKRHnjIAYJ3uHNbKkiWsIFC4MqGgTtXRNKMe4jU4-SZjSNHUUTy2paiNLEYurKlco6vreCn5Ds-QB54UTGukav9OOPSUYyn4sVClEI65uBQWzogs3_OzWvoav2MCDYzeIG86p51o/s320/20230731_100702.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugC9EB2cDNIazS_w7hY1lzEKfbfrXYmHz6uDlkZ13L8IvZMlSwCxdv8iuwqANVUF9FFsvu5xAg-EIbsT4Iyas92NlqbZs00u4KarGnXgWMGH7iJp6ERdc_DPm7VL8i8KE7znFiIZFpIz3HcLcRL2dSn-r6JnfjekQp3EZt66lwhMrxeWFZfEJY4d0HDE/s1209/20230731_100711.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugC9EB2cDNIazS_w7hY1lzEKfbfrXYmHz6uDlkZ13L8IvZMlSwCxdv8iuwqANVUF9FFsvu5xAg-EIbsT4Iyas92NlqbZs00u4KarGnXgWMGH7iJp6ERdc_DPm7VL8i8KE7znFiIZFpIz3HcLcRL2dSn-r6JnfjekQp3EZt66lwhMrxeWFZfEJY4d0HDE/s320/20230731_100711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhagdyvOZ2-EIOR6sPx4AAeKydCEMgTL3E2ZDB6NAIsTcTxbslzrjvwbsY5Hpt1fiuOkAOnyqTwLEyrMz868CTm_1zLRUZ0CYdMyAAmR6_jNC-3nZpM3G4VjWF1DsCKD1GSCNY9meulS2RbRp8G73PdC-Ed02cs079RbJLoV4yxJtJY5qBwoW3kHOewAoQ/s1209/20230731_100809.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhagdyvOZ2-EIOR6sPx4AAeKydCEMgTL3E2ZDB6NAIsTcTxbslzrjvwbsY5Hpt1fiuOkAOnyqTwLEyrMz868CTm_1zLRUZ0CYdMyAAmR6_jNC-3nZpM3G4VjWF1DsCKD1GSCNY9meulS2RbRp8G73PdC-Ed02cs079RbJLoV4yxJtJY5qBwoW3kHOewAoQ/s320/20230731_100809.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Fuori dall'abitato, dopo vari inseguimenti di cagnazzi, cagnotti e canotti (da bestie simili a lupi neri enormi a chihuahuas tremanti e carlini accartocciati), iniziano i 26km di salita. Tutto il dislivello, da 1500 a 2300 di quota, si guadagna nei primi 7-8km, con rampe ripide circondate da boschi. Più si sale più si addensano le nubi, e a volte pioviggina. L'aria è grigiastra e ad ogni curva gli avvoltoio si alzano in volo e corvi grosse come tacchini gracchiano, facendo rimbombare il loro grido tra i monti, con un'eco sinistra. Quando esce il sole, invece, le caprette ci fanno ciao come ad Heidi. Questione di luci. I pochi agglomerati di case che troviamo sono chiusi e abbandonati, per lo più, fatta eccezione per qualche baracca da cui esce fumo di stufa e latrare di cani.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEAoJX9FODy1kRH2DvsnRRlb6VVqOXaqPJ-E_mg7dijOXOABI7wyCXYDHMFk_LyP0uTepUVcGBwu0__L7_8ReyEg7QPe92BLRlzD8c737eWgHSNWg2j1-bD_1i41hXDfHcEdCiO9rppli3I-XPcu-3gRs2Lmo-hgPIbRrxO67kshTfVSCEp27FD0P18A/s1209/20230731_103440.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEAoJX9FODy1kRH2DvsnRRlb6VVqOXaqPJ-E_mg7dijOXOABI7wyCXYDHMFk_LyP0uTepUVcGBwu0__L7_8ReyEg7QPe92BLRlzD8c737eWgHSNWg2j1-bD_1i41hXDfHcEdCiO9rppli3I-XPcu-3gRs2Lmo-hgPIbRrxO67kshTfVSCEp27FD0P18A/s320/20230731_103440.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhscsm5V9k5bX7SIdxgFbDUbra7vNHELiRGr4gcWjl88433PZhI9CKkNwC83G5-bqGixGXkTwNjAM2KxjtFoek1wstODKI7YNTpLZx36EfePsMPXfEuYib8Jr2zUpTAZzYuvsc4KbFXWwXTEC3ma2wWqUxtxHUa9mNP51i-_8NImS1jzDtegsz353uR6to/s1209/20230731_111439.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhscsm5V9k5bX7SIdxgFbDUbra7vNHELiRGr4gcWjl88433PZhI9CKkNwC83G5-bqGixGXkTwNjAM2KxjtFoek1wstODKI7YNTpLZx36EfePsMPXfEuYib8Jr2zUpTAZzYuvsc4KbFXWwXTEC3ma2wWqUxtxHUa9mNP51i-_8NImS1jzDtegsz353uR6to/s320/20230731_111439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRCHm4841216OaoKe8C8PxlrmpHc--U8k5Rrus9oh-E476jsHdgOoT2WfnAkLKZVJ6jysIV4xLLZPPTr_5gofZ8I4uhxdmCnh2g3zXRAWqmYZi4-bAzBsxWDQ4Gu_3rRSc5YahN8TCx5Afizu2cuKCn5Kmmcdk56304sq-8bl42BvOfHmdPKU6rnzHmw0/s1209/20230731_115025.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRCHm4841216OaoKe8C8PxlrmpHc--U8k5Rrus9oh-E476jsHdgOoT2WfnAkLKZVJ6jysIV4xLLZPPTr_5gofZ8I4uhxdmCnh2g3zXRAWqmYZi4-bAzBsxWDQ4Gu_3rRSc5YahN8TCx5Afizu2cuKCn5Kmmcdk56304sq-8bl42BvOfHmdPKU6rnzHmw0/s320/20230731_115025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Raggiunti i 2300m di quota la strada ha pietà di noi e resta in costa, tra continui, brevi saliscendi. Fa fresco e dobbiamo coprirci, fradici di sudore come siamo. Il silenzio è assoluto, nemmeno i boschi fremono al vento. Ci becchiamo un paio di "Gringo! Gringo!" accompagnati da fischi, da tre ragazzotti che stanno tagliando legna, e un sorrisone con pollice alzato da un papà che tiene per mano il figlio, da una parte, e l'asino, dall'altra, camminando a bordo strada.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVof802BiVDEnfHRSPHmILD6LbpvSMiBVvsT3oL83-pIvZYB4-rBre-ql-w9czFUYmmtqKCeakFgd7qtouWslrEpsM-2bsXH7yKYgb9I1_goAUAnyEOt3D0AZM84ukLxaNKn9hXemII0jzWu1HFW9CLMDOpfeWo9X9tvPBGs8LJMx694hAQ-vcKMPVkdE/s1209/20230731_121403.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVof802BiVDEnfHRSPHmILD6LbpvSMiBVvsT3oL83-pIvZYB4-rBre-ql-w9czFUYmmtqKCeakFgd7qtouWslrEpsM-2bsXH7yKYgb9I1_goAUAnyEOt3D0AZM84ukLxaNKn9hXemII0jzWu1HFW9CLMDOpfeWo9X9tvPBGs8LJMx694hAQ-vcKMPVkdE/s320/20230731_121403.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgooq6147C3FxnEBmfdyJjS0MTrR5VFYAwJm_mVGhhfVACahOYQxBLhnrqtDIlllojg-JRIDavulO7EoGgusBZi4_YU2VNmYAH_l4wRNZbp0G7-vRhYd0rIqRPIA09Ntt3kovPzWQaJHnjtUrEEfRy_I77OuwtK7KoQsYcQ4lGBS__E9orcKEwvFLZV_88/s1209/20230731_123816.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgooq6147C3FxnEBmfdyJjS0MTrR5VFYAwJm_mVGhhfVACahOYQxBLhnrqtDIlllojg-JRIDavulO7EoGgusBZi4_YU2VNmYAH_l4wRNZbp0G7-vRhYd0rIqRPIA09Ntt3kovPzWQaJHnjtUrEEfRy_I77OuwtK7KoQsYcQ4lGBS__E9orcKEwvFLZV_88/s320/20230731_123816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGbBr1_DMbo6jEg57FdpmQ693XuKjXNGXhm61Eloaz9FWLWzs4kCQKJVSSv5qAnA1JWxDOxHNL16RpztsAX66EiCaaj3S6HkfPqGMYL5YJNU2UvZ3s2A-ioV781SUYajIXYpQR6GF5VZHzpI69WSu09wavqQjwsgVWTCKXR66IlZHt-KCettqYvRDT61s/s1209/20230731_124226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGbBr1_DMbo6jEg57FdpmQ693XuKjXNGXhm61Eloaz9FWLWzs4kCQKJVSSv5qAnA1JWxDOxHNL16RpztsAX66EiCaaj3S6HkfPqGMYL5YJNU2UvZ3s2A-ioV781SUYajIXYpQR6GF5VZHzpI69WSu09wavqQjwsgVWTCKXR66IlZHt-KCettqYvRDT61s/s320/20230731_124226.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumJqOi5IKtLaoQ1V5jvdnat4ysFqWXJZBezSNnipd8OU-niiJQcbDu9HF5RjpwIPjOmWttK8B21CPPgVpqSoBfAtc_FVTKShmlhgFqsmZC5FSrfYvh9an4_waapTI8v7GA5ASgp5HYf0vB_F_vkNrdoqePqK6o4cHG5wEBNrsVqKtVGPBTZzKUIV-Fyo/s1209/20230731_124240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumJqOi5IKtLaoQ1V5jvdnat4ysFqWXJZBezSNnipd8OU-niiJQcbDu9HF5RjpwIPjOmWttK8B21CPPgVpqSoBfAtc_FVTKShmlhgFqsmZC5FSrfYvh9an4_waapTI8v7GA5ASgp5HYf0vB_F_vkNrdoqePqK6o4cHG5wEBNrsVqKtVGPBTZzKUIV-Fyo/s320/20230731_124240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7zxMJTfB8_oYtczOYC48iTq4q5dCG1DYsWSGulBCn6i5i5BKHAB5gFjsl7Bk5Ij6KF3-Rktkwd6VuuU0wDltgk-YHgYH4si_pTLrMzGyY0fekr8gXs4MtsFde80ydqdowRUZFz-Du0MN-U3WRP0r4Hg-dGOAtiHLZ20MbaktqesHLvcmrEZ0y0Z0XTd4/s979/20230731_124246.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7zxMJTfB8_oYtczOYC48iTq4q5dCG1DYsWSGulBCn6i5i5BKHAB5gFjsl7Bk5Ij6KF3-Rktkwd6VuuU0wDltgk-YHgYH4si_pTLrMzGyY0fekr8gXs4MtsFde80ydqdowRUZFz-Du0MN-U3WRP0r4Hg-dGOAtiHLZ20MbaktqesHLvcmrEZ0y0Z0XTd4/s320/20230731_124246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGo8me_0Wu1PGysUJmO9kUUpsrOf6a2fOy5A1w500kOTrmhtW4_beLhHZJYQ5-PSmLtS2CoBQwBQDNsc4Y56PWJhf89dLN-yDrLYQLtYXxRuxbKLM7exXeH_MpUIkTbpfpiStAu2Iw9BGxhS_aGfbm7qNGJroME6El9QIKguGzFuYiWx6morJDrwgGqU/s1600/IMG-20230731-WA0003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGo8me_0Wu1PGysUJmO9kUUpsrOf6a2fOy5A1w500kOTrmhtW4_beLhHZJYQ5-PSmLtS2CoBQwBQDNsc4Y56PWJhf89dLN-yDrLYQLtYXxRuxbKLM7exXeH_MpUIkTbpfpiStAu2Iw9BGxhS_aGfbm7qNGJroME6El9QIKguGzFuYiWx6morJDrwgGqU/s320/IMG-20230731-WA0003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>La discesa, quella vera, arriva dopo la boa di metà tappa. Ci porterà a scendere a 600m di quota, perdendo tutto il dislivello guadagnato faticosamente oggi e nei giorni passati. E il bello è che lo riprenderemo tutto nelle prossime tappe! Ma ora ci godiamo il tuffo, rotolando verso nord. All'inizio l'orizzonte resta chiuso tra vegetazione scura e nubi, e dobbiamo indossare ulteriori strati di vestiario perchè l'aria fredda ci incolla addosso i vestiti madidi di sudore.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4BZsv9FrhT6jqJIgUj-w4l129HDvBv4FWnSdSwuj9Se2y3IFi97PqT0X8WjBOKD3gPwGZIlxhUyHxxAk_XJCT-LOZpPwVn9ds-TCZ93pNh_3_9zcp2CL1mZbLLC2Wn1Q3db6vs_kGfrns23-CvznoEEQic0-m-W6Uy0mlT61vzyoyKbj0ZqH2yeWoBI/s1209/20230731_124936.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4BZsv9FrhT6jqJIgUj-w4l129HDvBv4FWnSdSwuj9Se2y3IFi97PqT0X8WjBOKD3gPwGZIlxhUyHxxAk_XJCT-LOZpPwVn9ds-TCZ93pNh_3_9zcp2CL1mZbLLC2Wn1Q3db6vs_kGfrns23-CvznoEEQic0-m-W6Uy0mlT61vzyoyKbj0ZqH2yeWoBI/s320/20230731_124936.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCdXJEYglOnEAxhpH7jPJC_zpl_GACurWl-BpBjcsfOxNLiR1Ityiazo386Q5NQHvFzZ1otwgjZoc5IVKWjhieWI_kWscL7VH12jk1PB1yqQPKfLzpfBuZgo4xeJZ41RNsNwHXxAoRWwpDsbIpOZgWWH2mNrb4MaCmnogFOOSkuhgrb056J9z1hk_WDA/s1209/20230731_125648.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCdXJEYglOnEAxhpH7jPJC_zpl_GACurWl-BpBjcsfOxNLiR1Ityiazo386Q5NQHvFzZ1otwgjZoc5IVKWjhieWI_kWscL7VH12jk1PB1yqQPKfLzpfBuZgo4xeJZ41RNsNwHXxAoRWwpDsbIpOZgWWH2mNrb4MaCmnogFOOSkuhgrb056J9z1hk_WDA/s320/20230731_125648.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBariANpl3FZxbEWt1qGPmKrrQWFvZS6sx2ZZkKD6TrpsDZa1fn2mmdZ_JK0DVMLm_DG97rEdO6HQE42YfZACVJovuEmtF74ZX4TdbOQiLrfAEHHS-DV2t1YNsvtXHm0ctdgSYUWiDStX_-kmgMO724FlALGqksFK2v1zcvKR_c280CSynEQn4GCmtEhY/s1209/20230731_130550.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBariANpl3FZxbEWt1qGPmKrrQWFvZS6sx2ZZkKD6TrpsDZa1fn2mmdZ_JK0DVMLm_DG97rEdO6HQE42YfZACVJovuEmtF74ZX4TdbOQiLrfAEHHS-DV2t1YNsvtXHm0ctdgSYUWiDStX_-kmgMO724FlALGqksFK2v1zcvKR_c280CSynEQn4GCmtEhY/s320/20230731_130550.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0P2H5N_PzzMe0_PZDHrkSLKWHD4sRKoSHLW3gw9b7CDPyRsMrr3q34gku-fqS7Zjmt2ilghQ3X8Nv_2JTZVC6e78_KJhNrtMwe0IL_xevW2F9Q7JbNTRpZTqD6_WIaAsgR4Qgx3kAf6-IydisSaldePcOZxS5-qA1xMpBKhlH2-XZy2Fv-OEQgJN12w/s1209/20230731_130704.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0P2H5N_PzzMe0_PZDHrkSLKWHD4sRKoSHLW3gw9b7CDPyRsMrr3q34gku-fqS7Zjmt2ilghQ3X8Nv_2JTZVC6e78_KJhNrtMwe0IL_xevW2F9Q7JbNTRpZTqD6_WIaAsgR4Qgx3kAf6-IydisSaldePcOZxS5-qA1xMpBKhlH2-XZy2Fv-OEQgJN12w/s320/20230731_130704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE907Jl-AfyVure1WOP3eVSAtES42wzJ1bp5eUvL-YhIfnJZagmx2-NMj8XnXrvmtj1U-eAOvYzuR0CR0y-jdcda1rSKfdb3v9DOApcXyJAVMWM5DL9RcAfg-icR-7g9LyLDIvpWIlJHCZoZBYmhRWNsb4JsWd9mg_dGBXscPtBYp-uoPJ7IZ3anzYbkg/s320/20230731_133936.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69GFhFB4988mpYYvFDNACNyy39Z7qVNekExnbWmszpV-86cn_si3qcFFScm1usGUEWqgDY4Izd0tpejH40O2EmNDaHpu-f1jD7C7zouIfDGnsepBzR0-vPBrSWGARIIMUV-lSTfX7FcblbQMgauE4DoBxNd6SQSn5RftzhnwG8_NVnbUKbKpqI-yF00Y/s1209/20230731_134602.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69GFhFB4988mpYYvFDNACNyy39Z7qVNekExnbWmszpV-86cn_si3qcFFScm1usGUEWqgDY4Izd0tpejH40O2EmNDaHpu-f1jD7C7zouIfDGnsepBzR0-vPBrSWGARIIMUV-lSTfX7FcblbQMgauE4DoBxNd6SQSn5RftzhnwG8_NVnbUKbKpqI-yF00Y/s320/20230731_134602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Poi, però, scendendo, la luce torna a filtrare dallo strato di nubi, e davanti a noi compaiono i profili del canyon scavato dal Rio Grande, con le sue pareti di roccia verticali e strette, che sembrano doversi richiudere da un momento all'altro con un serrare di fauci.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4mufz_Sa0PZxi8J_yAAZTIhfsG_Zt_ikBNvqw_NoZMRDHEP5MKg7l3RrUglAc7M20jCxXxRwuhrG20mkKs2MBIvfkUCrmW_CWfUx2HgLeyTstcsZfiSxdhnx281-kd7ZCYN0MvsNvwpqh1SMZ6i-HKeRwTb4ZkJsd0DkhqTt3Jn91l1mysWlFRStfBSg/s1209/20230731_134920(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="713" data-original-width="1209" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4mufz_Sa0PZxi8J_yAAZTIhfsG_Zt_ikBNvqw_NoZMRDHEP5MKg7l3RrUglAc7M20jCxXxRwuhrG20mkKs2MBIvfkUCrmW_CWfUx2HgLeyTstcsZfiSxdhnx281-kd7ZCYN0MvsNvwpqh1SMZ6i-HKeRwTb4ZkJsd0DkhqTt3Jn91l1mysWlFRStfBSg/s320/20230731_134920(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJmqAnKY7vCSFzfc9hEtowR5pgc2LLFi0QTJVoubBZ7uLiOornGs7-aMCGfiwI8yxnABL-4HJ8b9u8sNqFMfEZ4lg8irnmEb6UVwI-1f6HNCceGQnoO6pMF-xBPxt8gjAGPbe7QXxUf7GtgAbbtPPT4vPjSFEpgaOIsa68N1iiT-_FW3_4WrNzYhjjETo/s1209/20230731_134944.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJmqAnKY7vCSFzfc9hEtowR5pgc2LLFi0QTJVoubBZ7uLiOornGs7-aMCGfiwI8yxnABL-4HJ8b9u8sNqFMfEZ4lg8irnmEb6UVwI-1f6HNCceGQnoO6pMF-xBPxt8gjAGPbe7QXxUf7GtgAbbtPPT4vPjSFEpgaOIsa68N1iiT-_FW3_4WrNzYhjjETo/s320/20230731_134944.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVWQquVA545Gap61mgr70HvMvR2WbRrT8l8BcpHYpbvxTzCBaL-pE0oN9ax8xQ-rsGuB0KYSkvbTrge2vXIDUABZcwuOdv1MEpx1xnFAS06tSaAeKWyh2HS7hqY142_OL6Tb3e7adVaL6VaDwuGEdEpl0eIPuv5ha2QNgfF-z6eKaVvRIQ2dwjubOwJgk/s1209/20230731_135107(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVWQquVA545Gap61mgr70HvMvR2WbRrT8l8BcpHYpbvxTzCBaL-pE0oN9ax8xQ-rsGuB0KYSkvbTrge2vXIDUABZcwuOdv1MEpx1xnFAS06tSaAeKWyh2HS7hqY142_OL6Tb3e7adVaL6VaDwuGEdEpl0eIPuv5ha2QNgfF-z6eKaVvRIQ2dwjubOwJgk/s320/20230731_135107(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8X76_1p0bgw_vAcCF3KhxEF_aJzmhXYzesY8ZNlNBA7X1u5Ig4GIocJ3f748FPaCM_uzcgK2xWL4MaLZHfEdtXED02CYezkDwF-IjOzIdwpnZD8Fpqwule-bhYGA4AV9epBvR5Dpv4neVOn7av9sCBW_-93DAk9QwbbH9OKZqq2x3FQmDbx0_J4Z-6s/s1209/20230731_135127.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8X76_1p0bgw_vAcCF3KhxEF_aJzmhXYzesY8ZNlNBA7X1u5Ig4GIocJ3f748FPaCM_uzcgK2xWL4MaLZHfEdtXED02CYezkDwF-IjOzIdwpnZD8Fpqwule-bhYGA4AV9epBvR5Dpv4neVOn7av9sCBW_-93DAk9QwbbH9OKZqq2x3FQmDbx0_J4Z-6s/s320/20230731_135127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPw4lrqFuAhV03--xAvA_gR7JQ1v59IBSZBekc2wXVBJEQwPX-W8dbF5A_J3KL80I2PYwPbEuF_dfEhn8DgGxTK81oOlhlDUaXLtXVXTIzF38jJMdSu1TQz0A7m0b1ydeT5ZJyMeIl-3-9wEUX2JWSQ_jSyZo_UZUj_R55Y86lb1-dsBrfE8A2A9Vrnu0/s1209/20230731_135130.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPw4lrqFuAhV03--xAvA_gR7JQ1v59IBSZBekc2wXVBJEQwPX-W8dbF5A_J3KL80I2PYwPbEuF_dfEhn8DgGxTK81oOlhlDUaXLtXVXTIzF38jJMdSu1TQz0A7m0b1ydeT5ZJyMeIl-3-9wEUX2JWSQ_jSyZo_UZUj_R55Y86lb1-dsBrfE8A2A9Vrnu0/s320/20230731_135130.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzlFC0TTqRbDZfw5Y8yP9crZBG96imaggjKGhoxEVEiKud0OPa1eEh54FxQ2pF4Cqf5rZQBfnfosYQ4kFukbTOh0id0horMvYdISVY0DBe1SZ4zpLMynnusGNjqj1yaNXs8x_oNNJ3SnzovNl0FX-ZVSz9lwQib99DQkCOzl1X4XIRzQobf9zgkuOGR4/s1209/20230731_135256.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzlFC0TTqRbDZfw5Y8yP9crZBG96imaggjKGhoxEVEiKud0OPa1eEh54FxQ2pF4Cqf5rZQBfnfosYQ4kFukbTOh0id0horMvYdISVY0DBe1SZ4zpLMynnusGNjqj1yaNXs8x_oNNJ3SnzovNl0FX-ZVSz9lwQib99DQkCOzl1X4XIRzQobf9zgkuOGR4/s320/20230731_135256.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjg67-qxZnuXoZ3UloONxmyggc4KqmeqV4M5sppRaa1AurEVmbpofPVajFokpZrR3CXs8bFLyhqFlq9szkqlZyi-mpoWGne3_ChIVq-fQesgUlBaGilcF_ZuJKhQO-UdHm1AIjXc51eLmmr4ws1nbf97pLIcEfaIZ_LoJEyn3weO6xaJIeAlU7gqp3b7s/s1209/20230731_135302.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjg67-qxZnuXoZ3UloONxmyggc4KqmeqV4M5sppRaa1AurEVmbpofPVajFokpZrR3CXs8bFLyhqFlq9szkqlZyi-mpoWGne3_ChIVq-fQesgUlBaGilcF_ZuJKhQO-UdHm1AIjXc51eLmmr4ws1nbf97pLIcEfaIZ_LoJEyn3weO6xaJIeAlU7gqp3b7s/s320/20230731_135302.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Eccolo qui il canyon, con la sottile cicatrice chiara che lo segna, ed è la strada, la nostra, che scende in picchiata. Incrociamo uno, poi due, poi quattro, cinque ciclisti che, pian piano, si arrampicano su per il fianco del monte. Un paio sono vestiti più o meno tecnici, gli altri in jeans e maglietta. Hanno mountain bike arrugginite e tutte scassate, che cigolano e piangono ad ogni pedalata; li salutiamo e incoraggiamo, chiedendoci chi siano. Gli ultimi del gruppo, con un filo di fiato, ci domandano come sia la strada. Mento: sale un po', ma non è ripida! Sorridono. Sono una brutta persona?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Fermi a un comedor poco sotto ci sono un furgone che porta sul tetto una statua de la Virgen Juquilita e altri pellegrini, alcuni in auto, altri in moto, altri che stan salendo sul colectivo. Ecco il perchè dei ciclisti!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj480if9fbcpxx-fUSHrr4qgcc5Z6d-DVGMnEJrxDIWyUgsNxGpKvtxTulJuliU4ox_qQaE43b_zmeG9owRiBCzX158yQkUx5gZvbyWHrVYsnKwo3JAi85pADksovWq1ysKD0rg_paCD-eWY8LXgtIgO-cyC7ohflxXx5meL7wGUn5fF7PHlknKJYOXSg4/s1209/20230731_140220.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj480if9fbcpxx-fUSHrr4qgcc5Z6d-DVGMnEJrxDIWyUgsNxGpKvtxTulJuliU4ox_qQaE43b_zmeG9owRiBCzX158yQkUx5gZvbyWHrVYsnKwo3JAi85pADksovWq1ysKD0rg_paCD-eWY8LXgtIgO-cyC7ohflxXx5meL7wGUn5fF7PHlknKJYOXSg4/s320/20230731_140220.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSotepQLio2QDXUlxvTc1Eh_dO4x2_WvMyDMz_z1T2G40KNH78UcP6JWCW0l1qXRI28VkdNFLPtnT31cpcIlosMENEahx8NcfdcbuwAFHZUfdTcVcRk22e8G4yy7Sy_sh9rCEO88grU04ggJ6I-pwO-cZ0z7ja9R6Ns8OFvA27PpVAJyvUcuHRYFZs1I/s1209/20230731_140632.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSotepQLio2QDXUlxvTc1Eh_dO4x2_WvMyDMz_z1T2G40KNH78UcP6JWCW0l1qXRI28VkdNFLPtnT31cpcIlosMENEahx8NcfdcbuwAFHZUfdTcVcRk22e8G4yy7Sy_sh9rCEO88grU04ggJ6I-pwO-cZ0z7ja9R6Ns8OFvA27PpVAJyvUcuHRYFZs1I/s320/20230731_140632.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il lato sinistro del canyon visto dal lato destro. Qui all'inizio distano una manciata di metri</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0a_ZoyBzPyfJVlwfemjg5QMtDvs8gAorBalO0RjTEUEzpy2mx-tsOXPrrlibRunFAJocdDY0UdgKvVpcK7NEWxlpnaPTzm3t3QJWVRUfkPNgKYmX-SfWKQv4ZwHM-cNVZDimKY_l-xIxeATaHQdMfsrYNqJSlDOLswYSPhcPnD89tG2MZ6tcWNT5M6M/s1209/20230731_140656.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0a_ZoyBzPyfJVlwfemjg5QMtDvs8gAorBalO0RjTEUEzpy2mx-tsOXPrrlibRunFAJocdDY0UdgKvVpcK7NEWxlpnaPTzm3t3QJWVRUfkPNgKYmX-SfWKQv4ZwHM-cNVZDimKY_l-xIxeATaHQdMfsrYNqJSlDOLswYSPhcPnD89tG2MZ6tcWNT5M6M/s320/20230731_140656.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4n2b6pclD9LJD0Lxs52aygN64M7_mJDEPZZNGNpHDYKim1oKfa2CORy6gAJRzg-1ZS8hG06V-0e0EmuM2cvRbbL2VFNT2dzsjuJiskppHoh9sGoXbSOkq7HMrexgI9VZtLoFg_rq0hQfiy2_pMdJUQvt6ZpkHZZfqu7AchDFro7HSzCldz2k5ExNq_8/s979/20230731_141041.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4n2b6pclD9LJD0Lxs52aygN64M7_mJDEPZZNGNpHDYKim1oKfa2CORy6gAJRzg-1ZS8hG06V-0e0EmuM2cvRbbL2VFNT2dzsjuJiskppHoh9sGoXbSOkq7HMrexgI9VZtLoFg_rq0hQfiy2_pMdJUQvt6ZpkHZZfqu7AchDFro7HSzCldz2k5ExNq_8/s320/20230731_141041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3bwCNIlRotvjBPIx7tj05up9MFKRakCmPAv4JA7GGBJukAdspmuWwLywNJXnAJsHdb1Q9qKj3rt5SNRy-RN5Nkxd-fGyFeCUeLl8egNxn46YYoQAcDDyK3pBOMDrF4hbh8NH01hJo6nzQ33aPwlMFrxLyYkAog5v0QAsyGWoYorEP6MS6nfZ8RgNNqnw/s1209/20230731_141535.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3bwCNIlRotvjBPIx7tj05up9MFKRakCmPAv4JA7GGBJukAdspmuWwLywNJXnAJsHdb1Q9qKj3rt5SNRy-RN5Nkxd-fGyFeCUeLl8egNxn46YYoQAcDDyK3pBOMDrF4hbh8NH01hJo6nzQ33aPwlMFrxLyYkAog5v0QAsyGWoYorEP6MS6nfZ8RgNNqnw/s320/20230731_141535.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1SEajkzwyHlElMCBwYtCWzblCFAcDoFQhj3GBcgCBUSj1CsLb_yz1GQFHG5DHba6eOYytDYefwEAFUn9aWYKx4A6F-fDE36XCRJvdw6HBvk1OK3Nj7pWtp2p7c4GjUN9Izeh-3ognnIno98F-jAFHExrQ1zBKJ_GQSatJdaqFipjzs9prQaHVND-NXZc/s1209/20230731_141555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1SEajkzwyHlElMCBwYtCWzblCFAcDoFQhj3GBcgCBUSj1CsLb_yz1GQFHG5DHba6eOYytDYefwEAFUn9aWYKx4A6F-fDE36XCRJvdw6HBvk1OK3Nj7pWtp2p7c4GjUN9Izeh-3ognnIno98F-jAFHExrQ1zBKJ_GQSatJdaqFipjzs9prQaHVND-NXZc/s320/20230731_141555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqLUUZKpVSMp1lE2Chcyjy27LXp2kAEckbtMmhnEG0Z02f4M_Gmsn2KYazo42_Qd2JzCjw7qlXIVTohtm6LqDEmkA4DoB3R0WBbKNYPrQJS1jWBpjF2OvhYSnJfRa9G72vtbeFPGyHyNq3ZkTJ0PqBWomlxKdhnV8NQggORAQ99quDLYbevQXUOL1O2w/s1209/20230731_141619.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqLUUZKpVSMp1lE2Chcyjy27LXp2kAEckbtMmhnEG0Z02f4M_Gmsn2KYazo42_Qd2JzCjw7qlXIVTohtm6LqDEmkA4DoB3R0WBbKNYPrQJS1jWBpjF2OvhYSnJfRa9G72vtbeFPGyHyNq3ZkTJ0PqBWomlxKdhnV8NQggORAQ99quDLYbevQXUOL1O2w/s320/20230731_141619.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZ9OacDchK6i3jQzeIgfXTMvxfH-SFxSeTMxx_ArDoNINld4KfFO7TdT98xagyJld_3a8ouFpKrJQEP-Cr7v1OHLKDmmVpVRoh_dUmjy2V7Jrp5ZQ-C1ruJkbq5w4qqJlYDBTmCrDdAVVjrmZTp8eSMl9xo2gaDquCN4hHkt3VXVaCir4wZTfFSs19vo/s1209/20230731_141750.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZ9OacDchK6i3jQzeIgfXTMvxfH-SFxSeTMxx_ArDoNINld4KfFO7TdT98xagyJld_3a8ouFpKrJQEP-Cr7v1OHLKDmmVpVRoh_dUmjy2V7Jrp5ZQ-C1ruJkbq5w4qqJlYDBTmCrDdAVVjrmZTp8eSMl9xo2gaDquCN4hHkt3VXVaCir4wZTfFSs19vo/s320/20230731_141750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tutta quest'area è un parco naturale protetto che prende il nome dalle due città che ne segnano i confini, Cuicatlan, meta di oggi, ancora in Oaxaca, e Tehuacan, che attraverseremo dopodomani, seconda città più grande di Puebla. E' il camino viejo che collegava Puebla a Oaxaca, percorso da nativi, monaci e soldati, avventurieri e fuggitivi. Qui vivono le guacamayas verdes (ara militaris, pappagallone verde, azzurro e rosso) e ci sono boschi di cactus unici al mondo per dimensioni e varietà. I fossili, inoltre, portano le prove della più antica domesticazione di piante e animali in Mesoamerica.</div><div>Noi ci godiamo la discesa, in un'aria che si fa prima tiepida, poi calda, poi decisamente rovente. Intorno pendii verdi ma di terreno arido e chiaro, coperti soprattutto da cactus, alcuni altissimi, enormi, statuari come obelischi. Ci godiamo il panorama dal mirador de Dominguillo, che permette allo sguardo di spaziare sul fondovalle, dove il canyon si allarga in ampio bacino di linfa asciutta.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Pk3hC7SJBEpMO6sSzCTdb7R9MULhtQOgYkQqlNGjFUeQ9BCqYsaIN3mqlnlRVd-BZcVnvISbuWKBP1XAw8vQJUOX3dSf28ul_RcJB38G6ymAZuDOu4FtVEHxOg5LBKkvk0aFV1y3gM8-A6vE100RfW6u3bgzg1gQLJ1vaJ41NnD8jYHrfoRS1l-Z1oU/s1209/20230731_142742.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Pk3hC7SJBEpMO6sSzCTdb7R9MULhtQOgYkQqlNGjFUeQ9BCqYsaIN3mqlnlRVd-BZcVnvISbuWKBP1XAw8vQJUOX3dSf28ul_RcJB38G6ymAZuDOu4FtVEHxOg5LBKkvk0aFV1y3gM8-A6vE100RfW6u3bgzg1gQLJ1vaJ41NnD8jYHrfoRS1l-Z1oU/s320/20230731_142742.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3hwB-znRG1xLjeo-lS1dQRpN4_1YaJuHPnNuqUqG4l3RvWNIgPnalo8Zlw4jBj_j30hAUxBDRn2kVIGZ_r2AuXPYxlrRmeSfWEAkjNPB6_SIFlG40luxOxBlIAUpz9kiZEgkvoa4MlSaShWvm-ipTrKXEjhoKXgJPXqFVR_pU0mWIBLAT58VyjSpomZ8/s1209/20230731_143739.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3hwB-znRG1xLjeo-lS1dQRpN4_1YaJuHPnNuqUqG4l3RvWNIgPnalo8Zlw4jBj_j30hAUxBDRn2kVIGZ_r2AuXPYxlrRmeSfWEAkjNPB6_SIFlG40luxOxBlIAUpz9kiZEgkvoa4MlSaShWvm-ipTrKXEjhoKXgJPXqFVR_pU0mWIBLAT58VyjSpomZ8/s320/20230731_143739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hQCxniXXeBGRonvPv5SWsRMk1v1HIRUiaCBXl-byvPHAOcfzVi9_lj4d8RLSQVav50i2bO4oYsU2T2kaL1x0xFMDXAiexqGsESVfjeX9GZEEqF4vSb1SQVbfJ7O-o1HlC2X6RRpWzh7li1kbe2FtDry9OmFV9udqAuiYPpbTT0KfS-yXNnJVTZ0rsJc/s1209/20230731_145407.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hQCxniXXeBGRonvPv5SWsRMk1v1HIRUiaCBXl-byvPHAOcfzVi9_lj4d8RLSQVav50i2bO4oYsU2T2kaL1x0xFMDXAiexqGsESVfjeX9GZEEqF4vSb1SQVbfJ7O-o1HlC2X6RRpWzh7li1kbe2FtDry9OmFV9udqAuiYPpbTT0KfS-yXNnJVTZ0rsJc/s320/20230731_145407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKQpOJNylgnUed7TnBYCfGZzDX4ONgj_fHxLxlcgwSQ5Kq-ibJGlVa5yCASU_FSNysdyEDKjWeWh2noNA51Z67LBUdvFzSrylGmIuqGSSJBoCzlI0ZCVOcpcLXnO6jGb0k7ToU557V3L9Cenb_zko4YyejzboEFQ_s7JwSoH5iLprIlW31iYUACz7kQvM/s1209/20230731_145759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKQpOJNylgnUed7TnBYCfGZzDX4ONgj_fHxLxlcgwSQ5Kq-ibJGlVa5yCASU_FSNysdyEDKjWeWh2noNA51Z67LBUdvFzSrylGmIuqGSSJBoCzlI0ZCVOcpcLXnO6jGb0k7ToU557V3L9Cenb_zko4YyejzboEFQ_s7JwSoH5iLprIlW31iYUACz7kQvM/s320/20230731_145759.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6KXX8qwh2lneFdmkJPwsREpboXjcGOYIoM_acrgh1-cAjVTxCXHv7-OcQS7URdvqQ3K5AoQlToFfURzj2S5BuJG7fi9MKtzoi2Idky27q1pf_M7Vzi0Vo22SRcq8U2noXSyEhP89YLl7WrZgRdYY2Qma9VfWEGHOmA7H1tUmNY6msR77Ty3C5KDARfw/s1209/20230731_145811.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb6KXX8qwh2lneFdmkJPwsREpboXjcGOYIoM_acrgh1-cAjVTxCXHv7-OcQS7URdvqQ3K5AoQlToFfURzj2S5BuJG7fi9MKtzoi2Idky27q1pf_M7Vzi0Vo22SRcq8U2noXSyEhP89YLl7WrZgRdYY2Qma9VfWEGHOmA7H1tUmNY6msR77Ty3C5KDARfw/s320/20230731_145811.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhpjY9oOi1VXQ77IBlb4Ul8EJ2PjMHtPfCzXtQwYqlvXw4Bs0eolQHk-xEoD8L5vbBo0a6PrmcJYpbFrfRDHwqWtTGyggx6GIFM7muXev5VGd7id4rSCADjgYP6jmdIbjJ9OUVUV1NoEot3YzFkDeizRuxbOo9HaXvLvFyxcHX1GdznNT7o6Yu1_-PpIY/s1209/20230731_145818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhpjY9oOi1VXQ77IBlb4Ul8EJ2PjMHtPfCzXtQwYqlvXw4Bs0eolQHk-xEoD8L5vbBo0a6PrmcJYpbFrfRDHwqWtTGyggx6GIFM7muXev5VGd7id4rSCADjgYP6jmdIbjJ9OUVUV1NoEot3YzFkDeizRuxbOo9HaXvLvFyxcHX1GdznNT7o6Yu1_-PpIY/s320/20230731_145818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Quasi alla fine della discesa, in un clima torrido e in ambiente che pare altro mondo rispetto a quello della foretsa nebulare e dei boschi cupi delle vette da cui veniamo, ci fermiamo nel primo paese che troviamo in valle, dove una famiglia tutta al femminile, dalla bisnonna alla nipote, gestiscono un negozietto di alimentari dove vendono anche i prodotti del loro orto e le uova delle grasse gallinone. Oltre a un arsenale di petardi, botti, razzi e bombe artigianali di cui mi faccio spiegare per filo e per segno tutte le caratteristiche dalla ragazza al bancone. Le chiedo se ci sia una festa in vista e lei mi risponde che c'è sempre qualche fiesta all'orizzonte. Anch'io faccio domande stupide. Sono tentata di comprarne un sacchettone, ma desisto, prima di trasformarmi in un torito pirotecnico come quelli che ho visto esplodere a Oaxaca.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgng6fSTjX9lWqI8zD_j4aNhAw19ce4EO94W4mk5gSrlbUB0itZLlWYjGBadQJQzjn20q3xiZKXzIX_OoVHoTu5MlquD50a9FqZnM8CUMzS4NG-NO3dJR1tOM80Fu33OFjtd-cGFl4bdg1VlEkPd6hZ66R5bjlMGRB4sDDYao7fCsk-Bpm1kM-5JByOa8/s1209/20230731_150902.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgng6fSTjX9lWqI8zD_j4aNhAw19ce4EO94W4mk5gSrlbUB0itZLlWYjGBadQJQzjn20q3xiZKXzIX_OoVHoTu5MlquD50a9FqZnM8CUMzS4NG-NO3dJR1tOM80Fu33OFjtd-cGFl4bdg1VlEkPd6hZ66R5bjlMGRB4sDDYao7fCsk-Bpm1kM-5JByOa8/s320/20230731_150902.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PjK9gDlqp5n8cgZO8UaJLFEkkf7uJqsiQD7xK6coz1BVBXOPeergTgMH14Bsub2U1jPOJDE3TM9dkoYESVHvn13ddExRvO1uLErUZa10nRGrQOzvOMc6KQnKFUA8cc-TTsybpC6zwuj-y8XRCgEZ-ceGRC32JEJu2e9JvjIajIDyBHNUJiyedpOHdbU/s1209/20230731_151213.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1PjK9gDlqp5n8cgZO8UaJLFEkkf7uJqsiQD7xK6coz1BVBXOPeergTgMH14Bsub2U1jPOJDE3TM9dkoYESVHvn13ddExRvO1uLErUZa10nRGrQOzvOMc6KQnKFUA8cc-TTsybpC6zwuj-y8XRCgEZ-ceGRC32JEJu2e9JvjIajIDyBHNUJiyedpOHdbU/s320/20230731_151213.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZbojeyrwwT-xhKGc2U9RjjN5zxWSPymhUG7yy752hHoedaR7RZssoxT-gZjItsr1ESf1R7p8BjxUkWIt_micgkWGdbfEhHM7YsOq2mLghyIcwLR_9CJII9kdRFBvyGEBM90x9Ne8_iXqu9Eyvz3icCnKtRaNjk_ruE212qSbZM708E65IBWEyBiQg88/s1209/20230731_152108.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZbojeyrwwT-xhKGc2U9RjjN5zxWSPymhUG7yy752hHoedaR7RZssoxT-gZjItsr1ESf1R7p8BjxUkWIt_micgkWGdbfEhHM7YsOq2mLghyIcwLR_9CJII9kdRFBvyGEBM90x9Ne8_iXqu9Eyvz3icCnKtRaNjk_ruE212qSbZM708E65IBWEyBiQg88/s320/20230731_152108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gli ultimi 20km corrono in valle accanto al fiume, in un saliscendi che ci conduce tra pareti di roccia, foreste di spine di cactus e terreni aridi. Si alza un vento contrario caldissimo, che ci dissecca anche il cervello. I paesi sono pochi e piccini, ma dalle case esce musica ad alto volume.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-uKs5lWWzxrw1oIhdG-q7reLrWkh9oK_dNOURcYWsOlcZV3OjhjteJFSVlIZ0iwPaECaF_FQryb7o-WCiBcv_Hdg6uQrAUdRtNEsRUHKH5OnEoTiHe0RU_LGj4OPSrUE8tTY0yzcTiapYnoz_4zt5UKkUNxyWD_1gJyWsZ-1wOCUh_Lv5g71xyMPk0s/s1209/20230731_153914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-uKs5lWWzxrw1oIhdG-q7reLrWkh9oK_dNOURcYWsOlcZV3OjhjteJFSVlIZ0iwPaECaF_FQryb7o-WCiBcv_Hdg6uQrAUdRtNEsRUHKH5OnEoTiHe0RU_LGj4OPSrUE8tTY0yzcTiapYnoz_4zt5UKkUNxyWD_1gJyWsZ-1wOCUh_Lv5g71xyMPk0s/s320/20230731_153914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrGvDW0jRuSGDUka1IKZ0Al38xhmwShT8hr0FXAH9rl1P_faJ6pUapRWAO3IaHvB9lDbUT2EDkNQ9jx3ZeQZXNBk67LO--qqgRX5XXgeuTZAiY41RJ29sGsbvnlbJaRIxan6-cz9OYwuAu6pZiWJiRtOSOKZZ3zsYaepi1rNzKO0_1jgV7VFqYD289DI/s1209/20230731_153923.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrGvDW0jRuSGDUka1IKZ0Al38xhmwShT8hr0FXAH9rl1P_faJ6pUapRWAO3IaHvB9lDbUT2EDkNQ9jx3ZeQZXNBk67LO--qqgRX5XXgeuTZAiY41RJ29sGsbvnlbJaRIxan6-cz9OYwuAu6pZiWJiRtOSOKZZ3zsYaepi1rNzKO0_1jgV7VFqYD289DI/s320/20230731_153923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCIYaAjiO37ZzkMEzXV7Jjkkz1qRNWJEDDYAvfsYrimRe9F7HhtyQXpPuexAzamhFOZdv2dRPP16rSiSQghancjl7UUUnKr9s2VfGvmndO1FIEApNfrB4auuyjY4Ndy-FLs50DXkJQkfzEQ-Bz-8I5-tO0hzJcsSuArRgTrWQzjzKKD7-5AFe0DRl_lDg/s1209/20230731_155219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCIYaAjiO37ZzkMEzXV7Jjkkz1qRNWJEDDYAvfsYrimRe9F7HhtyQXpPuexAzamhFOZdv2dRPP16rSiSQghancjl7UUUnKr9s2VfGvmndO1FIEApNfrB4auuyjY4Ndy-FLs50DXkJQkfzEQ-Bz-8I5-tO0hzJcsSuArRgTrWQzjzKKD7-5AFe0DRl_lDg/s320/20230731_155219.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ci avviciniamo e poi attraversiamo il Rio grande, marronissimo e poco invitante per un tuffo, ma nota meta balneare dei local in quanto poco profondo e senza impetuose correnti. Più che altro inizio a capire perchè tutti quei murales che mettono in guardia dalla dengue, che qui si sta diffondendo piuttosto rapidamente, negli ultimi mesi (aiuto).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMaYGNKGPEMaxil-llcSe9oRbMfF2-GDWQOoLDlneNL5jMgHSBlL5htpMuDcIWLpu4mZyXEgs3dlwpDKSDLPDTtJkcIOLGHg8OnQJRw60jgknqkAMsDZmMItK-X1rxvYIIESFUvvr6QWu7yd5ACSSQxtjuj9foh7QJ6RSKndH469xJsB2Uyp0Q8X3J_FU/s1209/20230731_160333.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMaYGNKGPEMaxil-llcSe9oRbMfF2-GDWQOoLDlneNL5jMgHSBlL5htpMuDcIWLpu4mZyXEgs3dlwpDKSDLPDTtJkcIOLGHg8OnQJRw60jgknqkAMsDZmMItK-X1rxvYIIESFUvvr6QWu7yd5ACSSQxtjuj9foh7QJ6RSKndH469xJsB2Uyp0Q8X3J_FU/s320/20230731_160333.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CB4qsT0BEp4v2d9wolbXA2-FvJeUmu22uN8m0HDNcpWNYY8dXCOtTe8Ke-NA6QKHCvFrYmfPx7r1SvRPpe3jV7Y0buYmQQz12DDMSr0RQ3QHcHjnjzOCzRR2fx7V3Nu-SiAZN_9tP8K0SpU7Zw2r3NzuWOJGBOMheKuWE_SwPPel24aw63d715YXpLE/s1209/20230731_160335.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4CB4qsT0BEp4v2d9wolbXA2-FvJeUmu22uN8m0HDNcpWNYY8dXCOtTe8Ke-NA6QKHCvFrYmfPx7r1SvRPpe3jV7Y0buYmQQz12DDMSr0RQ3QHcHjnjzOCzRR2fx7V3Nu-SiAZN_9tP8K0SpU7Zw2r3NzuWOJGBOMheKuWE_SwPPel24aw63d715YXpLE/s320/20230731_160335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCHfrMUe144uwteGtnIooWUoHX8tvJoAvNVsIybVYR7fMgQL4zSlZnf4OsUX352zaPESSqYLhl-uDxJOstTTAP0dGe3cy99nwb6K-EliiEIAkpR03yzogphgRSEEQV9xSgXLy_BzWIzU8t0Rko2tR9I9mGuWCxP6bAPeKo1G60KFwtdf_XckCHYbUD_A/s1209/20230731_160920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCHfrMUe144uwteGtnIooWUoHX8tvJoAvNVsIybVYR7fMgQL4zSlZnf4OsUX352zaPESSqYLhl-uDxJOstTTAP0dGe3cy99nwb6K-EliiEIAkpR03yzogphgRSEEQV9xSgXLy_BzWIzU8t0Rko2tR9I9mGuWCxP6bAPeKo1G60KFwtdf_XckCHYbUD_A/s320/20230731_160920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Siamo quasi arrivati alla nostra meta, San Juan Bautista Cuicatlan. Siamo cotti ma non del tutto sfiniti, e ci godiamo il panorama intorno di monti blu e verdi che fanno da cornice ai boschi e al fiume, che pare quello argentato dei presepi, fatto con la carta d'alluminio. La strada corre a mezza costa sulla parete del canyon, ora rossa di roccia scoscesa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikVgLr2iJP1GU6vNUfLFYXpcFmJo3fqWQtZoMW0HZcKK3s1zSorMdwgz6azRDVebJsH9UxCwoJZBvTesEvg6wiPgDh-12p1eG8EGGPivjyKTYOt2b7K3Z3-sRZxVlJnj_9fyJD5MZu06LfPW1BKFZHIdPo_FaNjIfiF6PO47PXpm1NWaj1gfFPTvYUcwU/s1209/20230731_161359.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikVgLr2iJP1GU6vNUfLFYXpcFmJo3fqWQtZoMW0HZcKK3s1zSorMdwgz6azRDVebJsH9UxCwoJZBvTesEvg6wiPgDh-12p1eG8EGGPivjyKTYOt2b7K3Z3-sRZxVlJnj_9fyJD5MZu06LfPW1BKFZHIdPo_FaNjIfiF6PO47PXpm1NWaj1gfFPTvYUcwU/s320/20230731_161359.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKo-8LsQfHepAH98moXAzxuCVXl7ax8bwohzE0sLu1zzH1JCIS47fUJJX_dWf3nnJd-66rndWKANrPK9B2kSuCMHdR39M75mWA92OCmauGce4GEWeaH1TOkhu35XzAQjFe64hS8PteNBUTK7loz0tUL6MLWU4zcYAZiEVViwAkkVPLmK8eLJByOhcBy8/s1209/20230731_161404.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKo-8LsQfHepAH98moXAzxuCVXl7ax8bwohzE0sLu1zzH1JCIS47fUJJX_dWf3nnJd-66rndWKANrPK9B2kSuCMHdR39M75mWA92OCmauGce4GEWeaH1TOkhu35XzAQjFe64hS8PteNBUTK7loz0tUL6MLWU4zcYAZiEVViwAkkVPLmK8eLJByOhcBy8/s320/20230731_161404.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3Dkpik035dPvxMtvyhfbTctUgCySZC9eiHDPnDOK73wOjpsoRdkwFkVSfCydY2DnZg8X2w1woiDTJlz5HO570dKOXhlTkruCXLoWaYcc5WcYGTcJdbVuMgCs6ZG6MsvSVaaeZzBl95BnUCbP2PTBQjvpJO4GA1FhuxfW9DsNWQdluEvubWN3kLZAADk/s1209/20230731_161809.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3Dkpik035dPvxMtvyhfbTctUgCySZC9eiHDPnDOK73wOjpsoRdkwFkVSfCydY2DnZg8X2w1woiDTJlz5HO570dKOXhlTkruCXLoWaYcc5WcYGTcJdbVuMgCs6ZG6MsvSVaaeZzBl95BnUCbP2PTBQjvpJO4GA1FhuxfW9DsNWQdluEvubWN3kLZAADk/s320/20230731_161809.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passiamo qualche piccolo abitato e, finalmente, a quasi 120km, entriamo in paese. Qui ci attende il Sarchiapone, nome facile con cui ho ribattezzato la struttura, che è albergo e ristorante, dove ci fermiamo per la notte. La camera è grande come un appartamento e ha tanto di "ruota degli esposti" che dal ballatoio comune dà sul mio lettino decorato. O c'erano suore, ma non credo, o nobilacci snob che nemmeno volevano vedere in faccia la servitù. Ci godiamo prima una bella doccia (l'acqua c'è, e anche quella calda, cosa assai rara ultimamente), poi una ricca cena che consta di orzata fatta in casa, zuppa di pasta offerta, come l'orzata e una scodella di fagioli che scopriremo solo alla fine essere piena di larve (ma saran volute? Non credo. Però sono morte, annegate nel sugo dei facioli) e un piombino, più salsine così fresche che letteralmente schiumano. Poi Gigi prende delle uova strapazzate con prosciutto e io una bistecchina di gatto (non è manzo manco per finta) con riso e verdure. Se non abbiamo contratto alcuna malattia stasera, abbiamo dei sistemi immunitari veramente forti, perchè che il posto sia sporco di antico luridume è chiaro, e ci sono quei dettagli (larve a parte) spicy tipo la cameriera che lava i cessi e poi, con le stesse manine, senza detersione alcuna, serve al tavolo, infilando il pollicione ben dentro alla zuppa e sussandolo per pulirlo. Domani ne riparliamo, insomma.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6wclEvEFMIygcAXh3qrHHYCoxJUh4yi6vt-F-zQYmjOD_wjqfUB-3RY_xrMUxyHJvBf_4UKg4_EEbeClLsvSX-OXR_UpMuHmd_TLqVKAiBEz2QMWFckkyWESmiVJzfHUF68hcfqUdUoErCum1vGs4m0dJpgDalsXDXOfTikYMSAplKTemb5ussuuRkg/s1209/20230731_165646.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6wclEvEFMIygcAXh3qrHHYCoxJUh4yi6vt-F-zQYmjOD_wjqfUB-3RY_xrMUxyHJvBf_4UKg4_EEbeClLsvSX-OXR_UpMuHmd_TLqVKAiBEz2QMWFckkyWESmiVJzfHUF68hcfqUdUoErCum1vGs4m0dJpgDalsXDXOfTikYMSAplKTemb5ussuuRkg/s320/20230731_165646.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDHy1CzP2218dcg7BwcdzZxWZVNKjn-8SptRvQ6TmSf7f5rX9yRRxy49c1u1L-ciLgScvYEufMYdA82DIT533fwa7gmK0LbIrcWeGJ3RvATxLjrXOkpGghPNcV5G7lVTE_IC_cFxZ53TYjasyakASvjz4qrYqgIiALo6JGNP8G1v-meFR2t3jp8-lsu8/s1209/20230731_165701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDHy1CzP2218dcg7BwcdzZxWZVNKjn-8SptRvQ6TmSf7f5rX9yRRxy49c1u1L-ciLgScvYEufMYdA82DIT533fwa7gmK0LbIrcWeGJ3RvATxLjrXOkpGghPNcV5G7lVTE_IC_cFxZ53TYjasyakASvjz4qrYqgIiALo6JGNP8G1v-meFR2t3jp8-lsu8/s320/20230731_165701.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJz4p_PbjnkiU8IVk7w5kmCWQ4p_XYqOIHYtQiHoOF6WcMYjJG5Re_dIEYg2p51zH12GZJZTj6PYNsKmFYmVvffCf1Hi3K6qXYHyvyuEHQNDUuNQPn8Wx1UuOv6ZiKO7RJqRc2OL0Z4JfYfzIyVPTEci1tJJtk_Al6qtN74SPwhrX0LKt67eYLnXhWL20/s1209/20230731_165730.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJz4p_PbjnkiU8IVk7w5kmCWQ4p_XYqOIHYtQiHoOF6WcMYjJG5Re_dIEYg2p51zH12GZJZTj6PYNsKmFYmVvffCf1Hi3K6qXYHyvyuEHQNDUuNQPn8Wx1UuOv6ZiKO7RJqRc2OL0Z4JfYfzIyVPTEci1tJJtk_Al6qtN74SPwhrX0LKt67eYLnXhWL20/s320/20230731_165730.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Per tutta la notte diluvia fortissimo, e immagino i cactus ubriachi d'acqua, ebbri di vita, ballare immobili sotto questo temporale sacro. Domani proseguiremo verso nord, e saluteremo l'Oaxaca per entrare in Puebla. Ci attendono 80km di saliscendi, con 1600m di dislivello fatti di rampette e gradini. La meta è a quota 1100. Con il caldo che fa, ci sarà da divertirsi!</div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>1/8</div><div>San Juan Bautista Cuicatlan-Coxcatlan</div><div>81km</div><div><br /></div><div>La tappa di oggi è stata impegnativa per dislivello e temperature, ma talmente ricca di incontri e interessante dal punto di vista umano (ma pure paesaggistico) che tutta la fatica è stata ampiamente ripagata, nemmeno una goccia di sudore è stata spesa invano.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo una riposante dormita e una colazione in camera (la cena non ha avuto ripercussioni, ma non vogliamo giocare di nuovo a questa roulette russa), siamo pronti a partire nell'aria fresca e lavata dalle piogge recenti. Tutte le cime dei monti che chiudono, da un lato e dall'alto, il vallone, sono nascoste da nubi basse. Salutiamo le padrone di casa e partiamo. I primi kilometri corrono svelti, principalmente in piano o persino in discesa, verso il fondovalle. Intorno si aprono campi di agave azzurra e pascoli con pecore ed asini magri.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Sz1fQ8Ud4l1iZfxkMY7zKzdMTezdlJ2fiw_vZHa5AOKzOFNBM_UGUevs3lIdWT2z3xuZglckgjueSPiXNwMMFStKMVNe3wWPPab-E5qsRQ2yxBDvSDDLMlXbKCb0e8ZocoD5HaWXjg6W20Cfqyq7zJT8U37rBFrO7ZKvkaVvwKqOwJaOFoXh4VqKTvk/s1209/20230801_083348.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Sz1fQ8Ud4l1iZfxkMY7zKzdMTezdlJ2fiw_vZHa5AOKzOFNBM_UGUevs3lIdWT2z3xuZglckgjueSPiXNwMMFStKMVNe3wWPPab-E5qsRQ2yxBDvSDDLMlXbKCb0e8ZocoD5HaWXjg6W20Cfqyq7zJT8U37rBFrO7ZKvkaVvwKqOwJaOFoXh4VqKTvk/s320/20230801_083348.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaS-sdRYAeL_XTNkmsa2jQuyL-NHZR5FCCp1XP1mdMkb2W7ZPhgkUqRPk21XCpMVn7fIVq8EbuqNd-JS9opU8MhzATmdh01mrEfDNpzwGDd7bnELY5Dg-Cjvo1OibBa2_pkV8adh5L2AxA4JBbP4lpIWVhtRn52hpG65TA_a_sXD97SnKJKf98cOngSj0/s1209/20230801_083702.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaS-sdRYAeL_XTNkmsa2jQuyL-NHZR5FCCp1XP1mdMkb2W7ZPhgkUqRPk21XCpMVn7fIVq8EbuqNd-JS9opU8MhzATmdh01mrEfDNpzwGDd7bnELY5Dg-Cjvo1OibBa2_pkV8adh5L2AxA4JBbP4lpIWVhtRn52hpG65TA_a_sXD97SnKJKf98cOngSj0/s320/20230801_083702.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKT-amxlSewEOEFXLLDlylEzYloGFPHBcXzHlSySEangZGNyZomkXf058Bp35K7nXdKqT66fNSu2we_BwTp0sbNnRaAQHvgTQw1s6Fvqf8AUNYsc65jWLrT9RRb5kWgNAYOeER-aS9PkkWXT2sdwSbdOjLELYHtrWjy1TTUJ407MxeZqv5O1zTcch3Xtg/s1209/20230801_083715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKT-amxlSewEOEFXLLDlylEzYloGFPHBcXzHlSySEangZGNyZomkXf058Bp35K7nXdKqT66fNSu2we_BwTp0sbNnRaAQHvgTQw1s6Fvqf8AUNYsc65jWLrT9RRb5kWgNAYOeER-aS9PkkWXT2sdwSbdOjLELYHtrWjy1TTUJ407MxeZqv5O1zTcch3Xtg/s320/20230801_083715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiORhNtPs4R3kgYJ2nUAlg2MQoK4fPiKLxlg_Aqq0Sis_zWSL2AYHpZZx11LSh86K24ZZGFm7KLhJ8uuSYpv4hOhnpHQM3kxGrPpMAPgrCForgU3q93JCdz_B96XV24z3PQGMsatitht8RTI01Pk9h00OScZdyTvaVtpXDy5xuaV9QvOyn60z0uAAjjY0E/s1209/20230801_084431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiORhNtPs4R3kgYJ2nUAlg2MQoK4fPiKLxlg_Aqq0Sis_zWSL2AYHpZZx11LSh86K24ZZGFm7KLhJ8uuSYpv4hOhnpHQM3kxGrPpMAPgrCForgU3q93JCdz_B96XV24z3PQGMsatitht8RTI01Pk9h00OScZdyTvaVtpXDy5xuaV9QvOyn60z0uAAjjY0E/s320/20230801_084431.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Riattraversiamo il fiume, che è ridotto a un rigagnolo rispetto all'estensione del suo letto (e dire che siamo nella stagione delle piogge!) e ci godiamo il panorama spettacolare del canyon ormai ampio e strabordante di vegetazione in tutti i toni del verde e del blu.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpHJXSqaGzIOzFJgxTHllS9zBMhxk6rqpQlgMmZ26te0XWgnUqWjPtnu5luXTlAWhsZ3Y9OMBgo7aCm8835dynZfYlAukh6vkEbEhKqegplzyJBYS6JJrpJ_YDXWZDqA-9zHnDuBHVTg2x9ViCIjspIaQg4LK0oDcHMSY95eGbuVR0d2KnB7PuG6SwkU/s1209/20230801_085514.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpHJXSqaGzIOzFJgxTHllS9zBMhxk6rqpQlgMmZ26te0XWgnUqWjPtnu5luXTlAWhsZ3Y9OMBgo7aCm8835dynZfYlAukh6vkEbEhKqegplzyJBYS6JJrpJ_YDXWZDqA-9zHnDuBHVTg2x9ViCIjspIaQg4LK0oDcHMSY95eGbuVR0d2KnB7PuG6SwkU/s320/20230801_085514.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjh4bGj9JvSlsdM6_gMiAPOTyY1a1OFYDi554C3erIB9kOwIZoDUdSDCflNsdZPw6lUDXVJt38ZiryEwTeb_l0Sp43V2Hn_-IfG_QN_26BG4UB8cG91vqJrN3WPWmwVoo8Glh58jHiL-sn_9LPVaX4bvlcuYw7FZd4Ncjxg5LHHnQIMuY_NBCvv3r-pc/s1209/20230801_085531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjh4bGj9JvSlsdM6_gMiAPOTyY1a1OFYDi554C3erIB9kOwIZoDUdSDCflNsdZPw6lUDXVJt38ZiryEwTeb_l0Sp43V2Hn_-IfG_QN_26BG4UB8cG91vqJrN3WPWmwVoo8Glh58jHiL-sn_9LPVaX4bvlcuYw7FZd4Ncjxg5LHHnQIMuY_NBCvv3r-pc/s320/20230801_085531.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0v3OJwknQbgZXyZ_l1GJIab_aNpvWs6qpcMmjnN76BuGDbECeFghUbUdwJW3pCXN7L4gYoPdiey6cvt25zU1sYitYB99-IB3M2YtYkEf7pjIIDKRHkboUwfjfHg47D_i50jkdb3RsTNP9cN10LWlwFH3VhXl-hT3wXuow1rrGaybQIK9j-5I6vK8Yd8/s1209/20230801_085605.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0v3OJwknQbgZXyZ_l1GJIab_aNpvWs6qpcMmjnN76BuGDbECeFghUbUdwJW3pCXN7L4gYoPdiey6cvt25zU1sYitYB99-IB3M2YtYkEf7pjIIDKRHkboUwfjfHg47D_i50jkdb3RsTNP9cN10LWlwFH3VhXl-hT3wXuow1rrGaybQIK9j-5I6vK8Yd8/s320/20230801_085605.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_ygO4UJE3eJDlJB-vFRsgZAP1_Y7ymuyVu7baROx_lLEiEF6s_6yXZXkZo6-HsOJBsqxC8dfdiG8w5yvKqBoVC4qDOIKHbtZf9uxWZe3rpG7Za6QziPLOp3-c5iitOi0T3Kv9J7jOSbqkYUk5IQYXMXedNdEOXysZQyeBbuIAQjtHPVmZKTmNUBal28/s1209/20230801_085717.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_ygO4UJE3eJDlJB-vFRsgZAP1_Y7ymuyVu7baROx_lLEiEF6s_6yXZXkZo6-HsOJBsqxC8dfdiG8w5yvKqBoVC4qDOIKHbtZf9uxWZe3rpG7Za6QziPLOp3-c5iitOi0T3Kv9J7jOSbqkYUk5IQYXMXedNdEOXysZQyeBbuIAQjtHPVmZKTmNUBal28/s320/20230801_085717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci troviamo di nuovo a pedalare accanto a pareti di roccia che dominano la strada, verticali e altere, da cui ci osservano eserciti di cactus incuriositi dal nostro passare. Sembra di sentirli parlottare fra loro, e son certa che anche queste piante grasse, alcune centenarie, ci chiamino gringos.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLxcD56OYWFEnkWYdG3ttfzTsU8v8SLuVTL-h7jURr-D0BjLO85IpSExVUo4Vci_QKSxG_J4kYboTcwU10VzybtdcqsNQsWLyJMTN3NCNUaoK0Kf7HowXoINEv67zEyx96-pVLFSviSsjC_mcuW4u7P0GiJ_mtbFWD66JfAdD2JGByKqLAqAfUsjII70s/s1209/20230801_090541(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLxcD56OYWFEnkWYdG3ttfzTsU8v8SLuVTL-h7jURr-D0BjLO85IpSExVUo4Vci_QKSxG_J4kYboTcwU10VzybtdcqsNQsWLyJMTN3NCNUaoK0Kf7HowXoINEv67zEyx96-pVLFSviSsjC_mcuW4u7P0GiJ_mtbFWD66JfAdD2JGByKqLAqAfUsjII70s/s320/20230801_090541(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDqXFQ7lE8_lls73YqwkjbxdnnL5UkBPXr1elMhr1f1wECHeb1FpSUjIhB9zwdYTsp8mS5gwOPTF8gv7DVke4B7NpAy9M5ulSgmAmXg-y2UMy3XLsAFjdHYDeIhxNLMe7Ggc36DgEqTaGjCjiJd1EfXp2SmXHBdO0Xw7t7mMXVrLU-konYE-dRVTSeg4/s1209/20230801_090557.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDqXFQ7lE8_lls73YqwkjbxdnnL5UkBPXr1elMhr1f1wECHeb1FpSUjIhB9zwdYTsp8mS5gwOPTF8gv7DVke4B7NpAy9M5ulSgmAmXg-y2UMy3XLsAFjdHYDeIhxNLMe7Ggc36DgEqTaGjCjiJd1EfXp2SmXHBdO0Xw7t7mMXVrLU-konYE-dRVTSeg4/s320/20230801_090557.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFBD7cNrANx2WPqMKnXGcT6KMIDmm0GG0TCuSDnNOSxCby66FCMaDPiWwvUaXx1LHzev5FfwggSsu2JpN6n487NsOO6ZcpFvPoSKP4VTDwYGQ7aTd-SjFUbySIImdADYy5CKIUB-bygCrOKhye5ujXuTgJfVa-h2g_mGx-wPoeFcCXtpvy5nJ85-2fwY/s1209/20230801_090618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFBD7cNrANx2WPqMKnXGcT6KMIDmm0GG0TCuSDnNOSxCby66FCMaDPiWwvUaXx1LHzev5FfwggSsu2JpN6n487NsOO6ZcpFvPoSKP4VTDwYGQ7aTd-SjFUbySIImdADYy5CKIUB-bygCrOKhye5ujXuTgJfVa-h2g_mGx-wPoeFcCXtpvy5nJ85-2fwY/s320/20230801_090618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTeZia3hFN3Njl-IbZB8nxOxu5J4pmXeEBl6h6cR1Jqy-kHq4UkbByWpdQ_yALJLMeXXNLYKERWaIEGw__PJmFLhctIE6Frk8CTrXLs5Miq1uiIIXCENpvN8LDCp1aI2yPJhzTWrWAEj-myHLRdOTwRfsRPxe3HAHNr0MekQNZeO_DVmCTHHkCXNW14iI/s1209/20230801_090636.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTeZia3hFN3Njl-IbZB8nxOxu5J4pmXeEBl6h6cR1Jqy-kHq4UkbByWpdQ_yALJLMeXXNLYKERWaIEGw__PJmFLhctIE6Frk8CTrXLs5Miq1uiIIXCENpvN8LDCp1aI2yPJhzTWrWAEj-myHLRdOTwRfsRPxe3HAHNr0MekQNZeO_DVmCTHHkCXNW14iI/s320/20230801_090636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFiCwxtjlOCBgJ9BneuETcqKP8b4AWBjIApaXCZ86Nsnkq345R7Z5SJJoFUbOI4ALN7vzX1wTjJH28JU2waTunyeH38RJVAHs6XPczjLK5BxV6OuOx41A3tl8rBuZpSaVTuZ4SL3bcfoyFJ9B-c1L8vKKlqf5he_kF9w57ZJBsTyfytWp9qHO2jgo_uaU/s1209/20230801_090639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFiCwxtjlOCBgJ9BneuETcqKP8b4AWBjIApaXCZ86Nsnkq345R7Z5SJJoFUbOI4ALN7vzX1wTjJH28JU2waTunyeH38RJVAHs6XPczjLK5BxV6OuOx41A3tl8rBuZpSaVTuZ4SL3bcfoyFJ9B-c1L8vKKlqf5he_kF9w57ZJBsTyfytWp9qHO2jgo_uaU/s320/20230801_090639.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolryYkvlwuZmoLA2oZqCs7ZbwdgUUCHYGd93Zq2UoA-LUFJt4q_SXMlRETdCuqC7pAv8fgdZlT-l3HD4spt1Bux1rCpFYbMlVb3NWkKmDrpfq6FDlaxw4hBcbicBs15ji-pMIyBC70rVdHdCaanKUp--cS3khMdF_LA_CldOqJhfY2giRUzWx3Nt_hUY/s1209/20230801_090948.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolryYkvlwuZmoLA2oZqCs7ZbwdgUUCHYGd93Zq2UoA-LUFJt4q_SXMlRETdCuqC7pAv8fgdZlT-l3HD4spt1Bux1rCpFYbMlVb3NWkKmDrpfq6FDlaxw4hBcbicBs15ji-pMIyBC70rVdHdCaanKUp--cS3khMdF_LA_CldOqJhfY2giRUzWx3Nt_hUY/s320/20230801_090948.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWAwRYXZ0QSbqZxnTCIPOMpu_jGJsUMIJLNtABnuf8THBOf5Szz5uEAxvsMpD9WdhtC8PeCzIUWJXKfeSeByDeuFyIZZKPjnc0-pfb3YFyeTpUJFNiY-5QpG4Uk7QB8GDtJPdVyod7xmB0oBSFN19__mqUatDX6pD4nnBsGdKmuJHbpgHgAwtuVYYYTE/s1209/20230801_091406.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuWAwRYXZ0QSbqZxnTCIPOMpu_jGJsUMIJLNtABnuf8THBOf5Szz5uEAxvsMpD9WdhtC8PeCzIUWJXKfeSeByDeuFyIZZKPjnc0-pfb3YFyeTpUJFNiY-5QpG4Uk7QB8GDtJPdVyod7xmB0oBSFN19__mqUatDX6pD4nnBsGdKmuJHbpgHgAwtuVYYYTE/s320/20230801_091406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Avvistiamo anche uno stormo di avvoltoi, che stanno frugando un basurero con gran rumore d'ali e piccoli versetti degni di una damigella gallinella. Ovviamente mi fermo ad osservarne i movimenti e il comportamento. Ma la mia presenza li disturba e, con poca grazia, volano via in una nube nera. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI23OBstn32xw72-9sryPXi22cUXPmaUYX_3ALMRnKgH4GQDeCPAY76KeWf8a_cxeykTDyVfFfSM-onoeSQRTKpu3vsT_HcKfgUBBnK4Eh_Fc2SAZaU8a4kw0aNnspVbXd-D6nBe8rq7Fmuwydgh2aWlEt202_VV4jD3LRw-ktKdeXZbMeFz7uTDu7Ts/s1209/20230801_091551.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsI23OBstn32xw72-9sryPXi22cUXPmaUYX_3ALMRnKgH4GQDeCPAY76KeWf8a_cxeykTDyVfFfSM-onoeSQRTKpu3vsT_HcKfgUBBnK4Eh_Fc2SAZaU8a4kw0aNnspVbXd-D6nBe8rq7Fmuwydgh2aWlEt202_VV4jD3LRw-ktKdeXZbMeFz7uTDu7Ts/s320/20230801_091551.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS07KgnX3bl84aEhYVMM3ae6IGgGC0rv6kqvUIzeQwPQCE0fRnxQPVlwbIfZt1nRZoUP4H9CGrJ2jMIXjxbZfFQ9DcQdxyr4BfowGqPhBid8G2wpFqE2d4RGjHKtwjQ0SNT9a4XfV9635GQ-mcJY2Woi1wJ6KIXTUw2B0K8fQnFiea7Jf-VMUS5UsaHLM/s1209/20230801_091655.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS07KgnX3bl84aEhYVMM3ae6IGgGC0rv6kqvUIzeQwPQCE0fRnxQPVlwbIfZt1nRZoUP4H9CGrJ2jMIXjxbZfFQ9DcQdxyr4BfowGqPhBid8G2wpFqE2d4RGjHKtwjQ0SNT9a4XfV9635GQ-mcJY2Woi1wJ6KIXTUw2B0K8fQnFiea7Jf-VMUS5UsaHLM/s320/20230801_091655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfxrZP4ghEJgVXs1v3B09x_02U0egmTFgzkycqdSHsMhl0NasrQhv_uBkc62VC_11PTa94kRBs4Vqh2DHGvuTe5hXpDPC2iM-l5AuFNazzcw8Mk10Yme89siSEmf5ErECvPAnrDbN-P9qIdxZjJUPvsUs3uSPdPGXqQiHf6Buyeq7aA6pSKND4m3m3RUw/s1209/20230801_091742.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfxrZP4ghEJgVXs1v3B09x_02U0egmTFgzkycqdSHsMhl0NasrQhv_uBkc62VC_11PTa94kRBs4Vqh2DHGvuTe5hXpDPC2iM-l5AuFNazzcw8Mk10Yme89siSEmf5ErECvPAnrDbN-P9qIdxZjJUPvsUs3uSPdPGXqQiHf6Buyeq7aA6pSKND4m3m3RUw/s320/20230801_091742.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1MFwQbp_wg934uIjnCQVnM3e_9_d4Cu6Dqzcf6Ygx23ZaF0ZGcI9Peopieog_sxblPTH8dSOklxYx_XqCQbjP5sblGtrzoJ8FyRsKUtirBddLf2Vfe5FOunzOAzp_Q14WopEQL9OluvQqptthAh4hF-1nhp98VO65Bx4rXHNdhK_WWL0a1abu21lfFW4/s2048/IMG-20230801-WA0009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1MFwQbp_wg934uIjnCQVnM3e_9_d4Cu6Dqzcf6Ygx23ZaF0ZGcI9Peopieog_sxblPTH8dSOklxYx_XqCQbjP5sblGtrzoJ8FyRsKUtirBddLf2Vfe5FOunzOAzp_Q14WopEQL9OluvQqptthAh4hF-1nhp98VO65Bx4rXHNdhK_WWL0a1abu21lfFW4/s320/IMG-20230801-WA0009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqdyCpdepmqLFy71s3v0rLF6MyBiD5wr11DBmp2sbouKbes1VI3EniUSj6HN5KVYki3XS33pFamsDhU7dSCQpVRWOPKu_ncYwjWqBuZyhMDKOnzAUkjdQzRB6gfIu8rd9SFTeMBAaCQpK1iVXjWTx3SQ3KjOalQmtYwhzShaBn-03gmbtZ8x2ic7to0o/s2048/IMG-20230801-WA0021.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqdyCpdepmqLFy71s3v0rLF6MyBiD5wr11DBmp2sbouKbes1VI3EniUSj6HN5KVYki3XS33pFamsDhU7dSCQpVRWOPKu_ncYwjWqBuZyhMDKOnzAUkjdQzRB6gfIu8rd9SFTeMBAaCQpK1iVXjWTx3SQ3KjOalQmtYwhzShaBn-03gmbtZ8x2ic7to0o/s320/IMG-20230801-WA0021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Riprendiamo il cammino, e, tra la fine del vallone del canyon e l'inizio della valle di Tehuacan, abbiamo la fortuna di ammirare alcuni tra i più bei paesaggi visti finora in Messico. Le montagne intorno chiudono strapiombi e pianori di roccia viva, scavata dal vento e dall'acqua, dove crescono foreste di cactus grandiose, colonne vegetali irte di spine. La tavolozza è quella che attribuirei a questa nazione: rosso e ocra della terra asciutta, verde cupo, azzurro, il tutto inondato da una luce chiarissima e rovente che fa risplendere come oro ogni frammento di vetro o metallo a terra. Si fa fatica sulle rampe, nel continuo saliscendi, e fa un caldo da portar via la testa, ma che bellezza!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRR0WVOiQ65cjnO_m3pNdzV5558VbnT-_VmSq5HyUUZaa2LyLQyE7mXy-qOkabPPTuCc0f4lxLnWFkX2aVdCiDcAAAanAwAx-hot-6IG5l7uSJ4iELSaKomSkqbOsC_upbnVGRsQ2LkRK3ekKQqrpd30sllDvPf1a9gYLXvOwuS8Q3xO1pcJPYNtLJv4/s1209/20230801_091915.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRR0WVOiQ65cjnO_m3pNdzV5558VbnT-_VmSq5HyUUZaa2LyLQyE7mXy-qOkabPPTuCc0f4lxLnWFkX2aVdCiDcAAAanAwAx-hot-6IG5l7uSJ4iELSaKomSkqbOsC_upbnVGRsQ2LkRK3ekKQqrpd30sllDvPf1a9gYLXvOwuS8Q3xO1pcJPYNtLJv4/s320/20230801_091915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CfBaD81Y3ABhqgB9suQwlyztdBcoT-OZ5oisK2Zvamo8924ZB-9VL_SQ_n7BN_TgeVAXcU_wFGFz7zRroMQEH9J4XiX7C52Eyxz9HyvF8kfc38SOr8lQX0qTkDCKi9yMlLsliHKDwQjxEfgxYsAaH1Ihh87cJf7u6nHI0RvGQzminK2cYeYqls7wJ8w/s1209/20230801_092634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CfBaD81Y3ABhqgB9suQwlyztdBcoT-OZ5oisK2Zvamo8924ZB-9VL_SQ_n7BN_TgeVAXcU_wFGFz7zRroMQEH9J4XiX7C52Eyxz9HyvF8kfc38SOr8lQX0qTkDCKi9yMlLsliHKDwQjxEfgxYsAaH1Ihh87cJf7u6nHI0RvGQzminK2cYeYqls7wJ8w/s320/20230801_092634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RDu6UH4BeqE2ftafc_8s5MJOeHLOLwbnAzvn0I8CdzDR6XG2b4TFZr3ypqXZFweoJ3UgYbcPmEWUKQS30bfJMmQe3lE0scH17BVuyldY56xM_XpzC60h3phEIXjLAoZQAur13r1m0z2idRDDmYpNQ9TsCX0uulZvY2JnEwdB1jSsv7oe8wQ9fAgP8bQ/s1209/20230801_092646.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RDu6UH4BeqE2ftafc_8s5MJOeHLOLwbnAzvn0I8CdzDR6XG2b4TFZr3ypqXZFweoJ3UgYbcPmEWUKQS30bfJMmQe3lE0scH17BVuyldY56xM_XpzC60h3phEIXjLAoZQAur13r1m0z2idRDDmYpNQ9TsCX0uulZvY2JnEwdB1jSsv7oe8wQ9fAgP8bQ/s320/20230801_092646.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEHlAicyb1NfWQhlkPRZyzVR67Ca4f5R1unECpmayuBVkZKZjVgQ9cm0bjmHD89lWdIncpKPUkDOjDtzLSbnyfD1f6adIU4yR3neApTiL4Yb9Qyh7PS9oNRtovbpWRQHZLgVxzQec7YsjLR32HG57CivzYh6QJjulNwG7uDkrtb8ZyQrYBlrafdlIPSs/s979/20230801_092701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihEHlAicyb1NfWQhlkPRZyzVR67Ca4f5R1unECpmayuBVkZKZjVgQ9cm0bjmHD89lWdIncpKPUkDOjDtzLSbnyfD1f6adIU4yR3neApTiL4Yb9Qyh7PS9oNRtovbpWRQHZLgVxzQec7YsjLR32HG57CivzYh6QJjulNwG7uDkrtb8ZyQrYBlrafdlIPSs/s320/20230801_092701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnWmRY2_9pqGhltjPettRC7lTP28MpdV4gf8K6M4CYNbitAcwbxcnE1oeex6KIaGvx7E5YTDNMS58JYRoBihHt9rthKVEv_cCop2ZpnPRx2cThrmq0eG0StCthfLeCzDUcdtY7gOkaf69KRNo99Rc20oG8GhfMJr4a4rL0vSaipPr_t-gAtTkC8Xg63eQ/s320/20230801_093404.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtq2u4bUODqfa4iYKtQ9_OOHzNR9-CU9IXx3IAnNjPNcuuUeoFkbq6Q-B9_ncD9VtjZ1xRxN6MSxI9UkYE8W_RVsWHgN8G4aa_XfJPUyTSJ2CjPmC9zWBFz1h5u4W6G7XFM-jYSSAxaBV5soxo71jK74vC8QayjdEkUkHTbG1Ky_qnHc6Y1DpK18iGfo/s1209/20230801_093443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtq2u4bUODqfa4iYKtQ9_OOHzNR9-CU9IXx3IAnNjPNcuuUeoFkbq6Q-B9_ncD9VtjZ1xRxN6MSxI9UkYE8W_RVsWHgN8G4aa_XfJPUyTSJ2CjPmC9zWBFz1h5u4W6G7XFM-jYSSAxaBV5soxo71jK74vC8QayjdEkUkHTbG1Ky_qnHc6Y1DpK18iGfo/s320/20230801_093443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO73WWip705NGlLOFSblai1UOzJYRMNIsdXTUnOFLlY3eve7VsVPuEpLYKzKNGBm3E78fUsoH_SoKMInF8kx9AJLy-vhhouBqEWb3ZtC91KthqxHOzQLAur23wy2gtTPV-uPONPENm70Y7BCFZvzVfMTMCC78PEAbHlgho7lIlkrzWhuMZ6qJveoA4608/s1209/20230801_093854.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO73WWip705NGlLOFSblai1UOzJYRMNIsdXTUnOFLlY3eve7VsVPuEpLYKzKNGBm3E78fUsoH_SoKMInF8kx9AJLy-vhhouBqEWb3ZtC91KthqxHOzQLAur23wy2gtTPV-uPONPENm70Y7BCFZvzVfMTMCC78PEAbHlgho7lIlkrzWhuMZ6qJveoA4608/s320/20230801_093854.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgibZSgt3Yse_NDP4-KTzcDC6oZe89y9TZJg-QeSBJ-bt7vHF2ftbT7LnD4ybQNdmCysdYNHjROLm894dx3Tc10A1skGRi9XbxBZS2bmkjdwd-BqwaGlBlx56dl2SFVMcr196LDckoK3v4o-_pzQJ9SqbhX_MqMEGvBspXYTg5CkXdn0rCnvMbg2xthqec/s1209/20230801_094708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgibZSgt3Yse_NDP4-KTzcDC6oZe89y9TZJg-QeSBJ-bt7vHF2ftbT7LnD4ybQNdmCysdYNHjROLm894dx3Tc10A1skGRi9XbxBZS2bmkjdwd-BqwaGlBlx56dl2SFVMcr196LDckoK3v4o-_pzQJ9SqbhX_MqMEGvBspXYTg5CkXdn0rCnvMbg2xthqec/s320/20230801_094708.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">E' incredibile come il viaggio lento riservi tali sorprese inaspettate. Questa zona non è citata in alcuna guida e ci siamo finiti per caso, senza sapere che meraviglia si sarebbe spalancata dinanzi a noi. Cercavamo semplicemente la strada più breve tra Oaxaca e Puebla, che non fosse un'arteria troppo trafficata. E dalla mappa è sbucata fuori questa linea, che è il percorso che stiamo pedalando ora. Mai avrei immaginato di finire in un luogo così incredibile, che nemmeno tutte le foto che ho scattato (rischiando l'osso del collo, in salita e in discesa) riescono a rendere nella sua magnificenza. Si può preparare ogni dettaglio di un viaggio, ma l'imprevisto è sempre dietro l'angolo, pronto a sorprenderti, a coglierti impreparato, a ricordarti che non possiedi nè il futuro nè il presente. E questo è un dono, oltrechè un grande insegnamento e un bel memento.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNe6x1Bic8T_gwStTc5fPkuKTMCf7aZStm93bjHK4hgW3TPrUC1ZIbWLK75wMlQ5t5NfMrHezW4mJ_aouBV6v6xjWNdeWq9amPGzTUgXdBkY6a5D6RVzG6E7kh7HHFpZbEOZFS-15uMDKGagVRYlHoiWSylZ45Y9os7QXh-LkrXjOInYXjOHF6rpuBtcM/s1209/20230801_094714.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNe6x1Bic8T_gwStTc5fPkuKTMCf7aZStm93bjHK4hgW3TPrUC1ZIbWLK75wMlQ5t5NfMrHezW4mJ_aouBV6v6xjWNdeWq9amPGzTUgXdBkY6a5D6RVzG6E7kh7HHFpZbEOZFS-15uMDKGagVRYlHoiWSylZ45Y9os7QXh-LkrXjOInYXjOHF6rpuBtcM/s320/20230801_094714.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCm-xzAkioneJU7qwyLyZC_kvPvnp6AyodgJevfyIje9yjt1ATsAFfM3FObyQH5TCBLAqk08nnWac1_0ClaG6JP7okYnLY1yQZN0emOkzyjO4PqYMrFWycbg72GuDwa1yZWMHV3Ag0pOtLPxXEbSOcTO4Sw6qWQIJARrif_O4VUfD1MEjaX-e8TuJO2VM/s1209/20230801_101017.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCm-xzAkioneJU7qwyLyZC_kvPvnp6AyodgJevfyIje9yjt1ATsAFfM3FObyQH5TCBLAqk08nnWac1_0ClaG6JP7okYnLY1yQZN0emOkzyjO4PqYMrFWycbg72GuDwa1yZWMHV3Ag0pOtLPxXEbSOcTO4Sw6qWQIJARrif_O4VUfD1MEjaX-e8TuJO2VM/s320/20230801_101017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45WlpQxkc6GtgTSJpd0okF5C1-e3adZUTQge0PCqMWxUL_tZPVTRHGZAr5gTo7s5Kl9wQc5iXuLxfq3Ik7iFFBvBCO5W4EqQ9JgH2KRgYAlHTVXDwSFo7uutWMEQsGX2Q-3ALBvYLL4tqk3EIx68ZTwHnhjm27_k5CihYsSfuMmZF9Nx-ulL1V6YX970/s1209/20230801_102600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh45WlpQxkc6GtgTSJpd0okF5C1-e3adZUTQge0PCqMWxUL_tZPVTRHGZAr5gTo7s5Kl9wQc5iXuLxfq3Ik7iFFBvBCO5W4EqQ9JgH2KRgYAlHTVXDwSFo7uutWMEQsGX2Q-3ALBvYLL4tqk3EIx68ZTwHnhjm27_k5CihYsSfuMmZF9Nx-ulL1V6YX970/s320/20230801_102600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrER530G-LbSEIIUn1TaA6AKIk1Z_1Wgh9vviRF7jnxjuyfbEffd0u_Sx06x-hPzqmX0mcph4OT5Tk4k5zCnvoSb9wxac8soH355_N0onvyX8jdgoc-JnQ07xsfvrs00deo44VZsAn5zWE8uQ1NhOvWp-JWJeHS5patJFsCLLA3UeGSqiY-qQbd6ehJaM/s1209/20230801_102856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrER530G-LbSEIIUn1TaA6AKIk1Z_1Wgh9vviRF7jnxjuyfbEffd0u_Sx06x-hPzqmX0mcph4OT5Tk4k5zCnvoSb9wxac8soH355_N0onvyX8jdgoc-JnQ07xsfvrs00deo44VZsAn5zWE8uQ1NhOvWp-JWJeHS5patJFsCLLA3UeGSqiY-qQbd6ehJaM/s320/20230801_102856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjalE2573hIb56N9J6VWJOA2UwoUv7eRbpkWI9HihCsYLmyGpLDSHZG97HJdeayWC3Z0vtbPNmlEw59xrNmiF6qMm0zFhmxdvXlhUFeu1dNkBrGTJNYhYAInUXVKtXLucfuo9OcHkb5nkKAejwZdA5grS8WKjl68xKy9-zMF8HBQN4XwNnjVtidSY4wB2c/s1209/20230801_102925(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjalE2573hIb56N9J6VWJOA2UwoUv7eRbpkWI9HihCsYLmyGpLDSHZG97HJdeayWC3Z0vtbPNmlEw59xrNmiF6qMm0zFhmxdvXlhUFeu1dNkBrGTJNYhYAInUXVKtXLucfuo9OcHkb5nkKAejwZdA5grS8WKjl68xKy9-zMF8HBQN4XwNnjVtidSY4wB2c/s320/20230801_102925(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Con il cuore colmo di meraviglia e le gambe sfibrate, approfittiamo di un paesino (l'unico, finora) per una sosta. Si tratta di Santa Maria Tecomavaca, che pare un po' una bestemmia. Mentre cerchiamo un posto per fermarci all'ombra, incrociamo due cicloviaggiatori messicani. Il nostro dialogo viene per intero ripreso da Stefania, che è una youtuber messicana. Loro sono partiti da nord e scendono a Cancun. Percorso e tempi sono indefiniti: ogni tanto si fermano a lavorare per guadagnare qualche soldino e continuare il viaggio. "E' un'avventura!" chiosa lei, prima di salutarci e spegnere il video. Ci colpisce il fatto che siano bardati all'inverosimile, con maniche e pantaloni lunghi, buff, berretti e chi più ne ha, più ne metta. Qui usa vestirsi molto per ripararsi dal sole, e ciò avrebbe senso se i tessuti fossero leggeri e traspiranti. Ma così non è. Non oso immaginare il caldo che soffrono quando spingono le loro biciclettone pesanti in salita.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3p0BL7k-JlAOUUtH6Y2SOm7nrfZCluKQIfgR9_vf5foSTKTXCoyBGDxm5gayMFiCmbDF2ecFJfVX_XYKcdlMluvrWsEQffFPDCxZfZV7SeoOpVdZ0OcP2Y5H5TvJ09VmCS1p5zV_Gn6duNd_FtaQ2Rr4lrWFxyS23bd6tDsg1Z-tj1yBFXt63Jy4BYq8/s1209/20230801_105919.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3p0BL7k-JlAOUUtH6Y2SOm7nrfZCluKQIfgR9_vf5foSTKTXCoyBGDxm5gayMFiCmbDF2ecFJfVX_XYKcdlMluvrWsEQffFPDCxZfZV7SeoOpVdZ0OcP2Y5H5TvJ09VmCS1p5zV_Gn6duNd_FtaQ2Rr4lrWFxyS23bd6tDsg1Z-tj1yBFXt63Jy4BYq8/s320/20230801_105919.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il paese è un po' deserto, ma seguiamo la musica alta e raggiungiamo una miscelanea, un negozietto che vende di tutto un po', a bordo strada. I prodotti sono tutti sfusi, in contenitori di plastica zozzoni, in file ordinate su un tavolo all'interno della bottega. Presidia una sciura che ci guarda con circospezione e non ci perde di vista nemmeno un momento, anche quando ci sediamo all'esterno a riposare qualche minuto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeWXrEnkzVP4gZQOtgWkriAkP0Q1ArXoT4pHAwz2VUSL6_dc-SWtPh4Q5HnQumFKoZ-fa8o9cAbjitKTHDIU29u3xn4MRIVHpr-G6WlxPj_gvBMZ2i4hpk4F0UIZiMmnfJpnH9UIU7LSZV1uKg330di3Ih_V00EwJXUJsh_qxSzseWqLAovxu2VQm1CcY/s1209/20230801_110102.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeWXrEnkzVP4gZQOtgWkriAkP0Q1ArXoT4pHAwz2VUSL6_dc-SWtPh4Q5HnQumFKoZ-fa8o9cAbjitKTHDIU29u3xn4MRIVHpr-G6WlxPj_gvBMZ2i4hpk4F0UIZiMmnfJpnH9UIU7LSZV1uKg330di3Ih_V00EwJXUJsh_qxSzseWqLAovxu2VQm1CcY/s320/20230801_110102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQc2_Sk8GF6AosZZLJKk5aTcy0GNB5ZKvZAhPq8y2UNatwI5soAaqn0EWqsOt3nCuIa7ngv884HzhR8GH0QzyjP9eg6mHtul4ELK02E5q5rzlHK1QKUriPDhQlC5LIXMsLWQ_wONpi7LL8er6z3ozi33CYF1znKzxehPNlNCjFRxlG3I_8Ha2aERiHd0/s1209/20230801_110109.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQc2_Sk8GF6AosZZLJKk5aTcy0GNB5ZKvZAhPq8y2UNatwI5soAaqn0EWqsOt3nCuIa7ngv884HzhR8GH0QzyjP9eg6mHtul4ELK02E5q5rzlHK1QKUriPDhQlC5LIXMsLWQ_wONpi7LL8er6z3ozi33CYF1znKzxehPNlNCjFRxlG3I_8Ha2aERiHd0/s320/20230801_110109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOgr0j2K1KR1hxhfDJVCm5jVu0cg3B56R56b61QJTaBYKVNnjLgiVewlsWEUvPQJauKm2Tn9-_OMg25FlX7uEuOKxuvxP0H0aB9EnayE8AO6DGK8RBYJMTL-nGJ34V1km1MdmozH-BwIyKwv3Kam5w1tMwlwkzgBq4rXoqlLa_i9Pr4oqverJyltB3T0Y/s1209/20230801_110111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOgr0j2K1KR1hxhfDJVCm5jVu0cg3B56R56b61QJTaBYKVNnjLgiVewlsWEUvPQJauKm2Tn9-_OMg25FlX7uEuOKxuvxP0H0aB9EnayE8AO6DGK8RBYJMTL-nGJ34V1km1MdmozH-BwIyKwv3Kam5w1tMwlwkzgBq4rXoqlLa_i9Pr4oqverJyltB3T0Y/s320/20230801_110111.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbjENbX5Wq3TmszwAroksuZBHdwuZaxqlMucs7jPUPnvfhJE17qqw5LaTJN6UBKwKmQeo_-mdpuPCjBi2cGir1M2R95HRYWfJ2uL2W17dwWdPSUdDizf-w55g7yIDT0jrZi3nc1L2Dx-TCj0GQacseIOa9Wtf3PK4250A4k4uo_lwCFbJWBMbsoSvjbE/s1209/20230801_110429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbjENbX5Wq3TmszwAroksuZBHdwuZaxqlMucs7jPUPnvfhJE17qqw5LaTJN6UBKwKmQeo_-mdpuPCjBi2cGir1M2R95HRYWfJ2uL2W17dwWdPSUdDizf-w55g7yIDT0jrZi3nc1L2Dx-TCj0GQacseIOa9Wtf3PK4250A4k4uo_lwCFbJWBMbsoSvjbE/s320/20230801_110429.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuPVFpR2FOHbzoCU8-SCSdnFs-ObfnWT0yCAxpRs3sSvlJw7V7DtUdE6px-LSff-ML3EoeizE6WvULFaVOKbQWsrN8H_TS2Lv02HBSCG4vsEnNxtTX7EFZcFUdPzhar-dJkzN8Wg7zE1OIFFgqV53pXnpQudRKFpDlXiuX0v3nMdFEGgsRf51fLx_4FA/s1209/20230801_110431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuPVFpR2FOHbzoCU8-SCSdnFs-ObfnWT0yCAxpRs3sSvlJw7V7DtUdE6px-LSff-ML3EoeizE6WvULFaVOKbQWsrN8H_TS2Lv02HBSCG4vsEnNxtTX7EFZcFUdPzhar-dJkzN8Wg7zE1OIFFgqV53pXnpQudRKFpDlXiuX0v3nMdFEGgsRf51fLx_4FA/s320/20230801_110431.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3uGaQ4r2geetQCu8Eug8pliGp-o2rsmheEcdxUgh3F0vQhroL9gkgH1HgAhHk9bxJID5eRWjU3g1Ru0cUnz5V-K-IIxS0ICwu1dCK2T9k-mrnJuukA9zWFtMMmZGpIw8ZYuSSVoE4hUxEXIn0xf9ng8BAF3tIzFCorAYFcXZ9U0s2Re0Dzuevu_uX8MU/s1209/20230801_110707.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3uGaQ4r2geetQCu8Eug8pliGp-o2rsmheEcdxUgh3F0vQhroL9gkgH1HgAhHk9bxJID5eRWjU3g1Ru0cUnz5V-K-IIxS0ICwu1dCK2T9k-mrnJuukA9zWFtMMmZGpIw8ZYuSSVoE4hUxEXIn0xf9ng8BAF3tIzFCorAYFcXZ9U0s2Re0Dzuevu_uX8MU/s320/20230801_110707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oejaxTEfeColGjw1Q5-FFk-tA-ZDJZk9yVc0DGEQK25kl1--fSvH3jRXoLHR7m5Xa0L6O3x_zpwpQf6iYgF54f0XUPRdZUYRTRsBAeNMFfEKgFl7lU0ebtrMDfs3qSSHTSsGPSac10EV02ay7D-xmutQNg_g_EL3nsfQ5-0SO5wXfYy4ZSx3xgGTImA/s1209/20230801_110715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oejaxTEfeColGjw1Q5-FFk-tA-ZDJZk9yVc0DGEQK25kl1--fSvH3jRXoLHR7m5Xa0L6O3x_zpwpQf6iYgF54f0XUPRdZUYRTRsBAeNMFfEKgFl7lU0ebtrMDfs3qSSHTSsGPSac10EV02ay7D-xmutQNg_g_EL3nsfQ5-0SO5wXfYy4ZSx3xgGTImA/s320/20230801_110715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ripartiamo, e ora la salita si fa impegnativa per le ripide rampe e il sole che ci picchia in testa con la forza di un fabbro ferraio. Il termometro segna 46.5 gradi! Ben credo che siamo abbronzati anche sulla schiena, con tatuato il segno delle bretelle delle braghe, nonostante si indossi sempre la maglia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZkS9Dqy5q0dJeSssyl9m9E2rbXD8IYlt-JUAkZgWImPtub2Zyj1pj37DdbQJno_m5MfixytO3F7oLiQuM-4XTW-czxWUmwzBj-JDwKrlBuELf7gElULvhM2S46cm18GutSarwQPVLZqBUCqeRUL2R8jLiAcZDOTfZ08bO5u1p32XFMUy5V59Xm3pgbKQ/s1209/20230801_114916.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZkS9Dqy5q0dJeSssyl9m9E2rbXD8IYlt-JUAkZgWImPtub2Zyj1pj37DdbQJno_m5MfixytO3F7oLiQuM-4XTW-czxWUmwzBj-JDwKrlBuELf7gElULvhM2S46cm18GutSarwQPVLZqBUCqeRUL2R8jLiAcZDOTfZ08bO5u1p32XFMUy5V59Xm3pgbKQ/s320/20230801_114916.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLthMtJeTCmQFS5ELCE45jUpfkHoBzSWCs0RM6sYNz8puSuUoBSyO8551oYninbvTKWk_cqI1khfg59ggeOQXvFiqAOsA5pyJhA2UA1UujguEj1vgQkuzxprgkyX4bbs4iSpOR19aRnvUExG3MtA1oBvcXYENvLHXR7frwMYsDJEqKM10NOPQIv0IzAQ/s1209/20230801_123805.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLthMtJeTCmQFS5ELCE45jUpfkHoBzSWCs0RM6sYNz8puSuUoBSyO8551oYninbvTKWk_cqI1khfg59ggeOQXvFiqAOsA5pyJhA2UA1UujguEj1vgQkuzxprgkyX4bbs4iSpOR19aRnvUExG3MtA1oBvcXYENvLHXR7frwMYsDJEqKM10NOPQIv0IzAQ/s320/20230801_123805.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8MMebL9eySbSNlnVIxN0m3M2U3vi386a59vxWK0-9tg2RKMDrRGLqKKJ-UWjGqtrwFIpG9DwM3InIueJP_doEbWGpD6sWV23Z1ZYsffZq4gXLc_7P1d9Pn7oBpU4aUToSRSspWsFYIGMZIzmJBdqBMPX7qrRl7T0ewFz7k2-3uj6YLoZuGJkf1a-pGpw/s1209/20230801_123817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8MMebL9eySbSNlnVIxN0m3M2U3vi386a59vxWK0-9tg2RKMDrRGLqKKJ-UWjGqtrwFIpG9DwM3InIueJP_doEbWGpD6sWV23Z1ZYsffZq4gXLc_7P1d9Pn7oBpU4aUToSRSspWsFYIGMZIzmJBdqBMPX7qrRl7T0ewFz7k2-3uj6YLoZuGJkf1a-pGpw/s320/20230801_123817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8L3PwD25d0fvUZtQVlLaQN-zDxZO0IG79RFraHfj1sg69IYEq5FfijEKn3grTEJT6etGypQPPmnCtqTpflS55seTXYdyqIIqncOTuKVIsIdIlrOcHHumk3wofGiq8wp6VQg3SGIANv9W7V0s2RIQpTFDiQnTYcvzWVa8SiT08-lPpt0Wc2pp_UVGbaQ/s1209/20230801_123938.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8L3PwD25d0fvUZtQVlLaQN-zDxZO0IG79RFraHfj1sg69IYEq5FfijEKn3grTEJT6etGypQPPmnCtqTpflS55seTXYdyqIIqncOTuKVIsIdIlrOcHHumk3wofGiq8wp6VQg3SGIANv9W7V0s2RIQpTFDiQnTYcvzWVa8SiT08-lPpt0Wc2pp_UVGbaQ/s320/20230801_123938.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Si rende necessaria un'ulteriore sosta all'ombra, dopo poco più di 10km. Sta per venirci un coccolone. Approdiamo ad un muretto sotto ad un grande albero. Siamo ai margini di Toxpalam. Approfittiamo di una bodeguita per comprare acqua fresca, e chiacchieriamo un po' con la gentile signora che mal cela lo stupore di vedere turisti dalle sue parti. Mentre ci riprendiamo al fresco della ceiba, ci raggiunge un ometto che porta con sè un melone e un bicchiere di plastica pieno di aguardiente. Non è il primo che beve, di certo. Si presenta, ci approccia sorridendo e attacca subito bottone. Il meloncito è per noi. "Appena raccolto, io li impacchetto e faccio le casse in base alle dimensioni. Esportiamo in tutto il mondo!". Si affaccia al negozio da cui siamo appena usciti e chiede un coltello alla parona. "Che devi fare, ammazzare i gringos?" ribatte lei ridendo. Gli passa un coltellaccio tanto e, per un attimo, mi chiedo se sia il momento di recuperare lo spray al peperoncino e il mio, di coltello. Ma no, Cesario, così si chiama ("internazionalmente conosciuto come Charly, però!") affetta il melone e ce lo offre. Intanto chiacchieriamo. Ci inonda di domande, ci racconta la storia della sua vita. E' di qui, ha lavorato sempre come impacchettatore di frutta in altri stati del Messico e, per quattro anni, anche in California. Ha dei nipoti là. Ma lui ha preferito tornare, perchè là senza soldi muori, qui vai al campo, lavori un po', qualcosa da mangiare trovi e non devi pagare anche per pisciare. Tra vicini ci si aiuta, esiste la comunità, anche se lo stato un po' meno. E poi quanto è bello e ricco e variegato il Messico! E come si mangia bene! E come si beve divinamente! Un'amaca, un bicchierino, e sei in paradiso.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">E via così, per un'ora. Gigi mangia il melone e annuisce, dopo essersi tolto dai gioco con un "No hablo espanol", mentre io devo sostenere tutta la conversazione tra un seme e uno sbrodolamento del melòn (che, in effetti, è buonissimo). Dopo un'ora Cesario più che parlare sbiascica e ridacchia, io anche, per il rincoglionimento da calura. Ma ci capiamo. Fosse per lui, staremmo lì tutto il pomeriggio. Gli piace sentirmi parlar bene del Messico e dell'Oaxaca. Riusciamo a districarci, alla fine, contenti tutti: noi per la gentilezza di uno sconosciuto, lui perchè "Ma quando mai avrei pensato di parlare con due italiani? Di gringos ne passano tanti, ma italiani... Ah la vita è incredibile!". Ci saluta citando Schwarzenegger e facendogli il verso: "Hasta la vista, baby!" con due dita alla tesa del cappello. Ciao Cesario, grazie! Sei la riprova di quanto la gente sia meglio di ciò che pensiamo, e per un fatto di cronaca nera che fa il giro del mondo, ci sono migliaia di atti di gratuita gentilezza che fan molto meno rumore. Viaggiare in bici permette di avere un'idea delle giuste proporzioni, spesso falsate da un'informazione distorta e sensazionalistica (e poi si sa che è più facile controllare chi ha paura di sè e degli altri, e vede un mostro in ogni vaga ombra).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQmUfj47RqrgGGGuEPDNbx9x6v2OE5AVJEIJqnY9LWiR8TqugHJ6Ra2tRuCXdlEhZylZp71d0Tp1lgM5o9Nb5GHhQrDDdeoYfPLFTiazvGCU0f7CSYTE9CMGRR-e1pGp4T_ymDAboLIuiFRAID1z6Jdlu1RctaV32blcVCsdsb9Y0qBvhLmqnnmpNstc/s1209/20230801_125618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQmUfj47RqrgGGGuEPDNbx9x6v2OE5AVJEIJqnY9LWiR8TqugHJ6Ra2tRuCXdlEhZylZp71d0Tp1lgM5o9Nb5GHhQrDDdeoYfPLFTiazvGCU0f7CSYTE9CMGRR-e1pGp4T_ymDAboLIuiFRAID1z6Jdlu1RctaV32blcVCsdsb9Y0qBvhLmqnnmpNstc/s320/20230801_125618.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHDwtyLmBFa45naFcgFRTpi-UzVTeG1297sgzLbFQI-sn1xzayp9E4vUckTYDXk-Zw7Z0RGuuaMaHHfn3VfWXF_tEC9xbknAoqCYoIHeRmhkuWssasvOBq8O1eWmI5QmjUe3s_b7-U_PxvfFIMnGXe47wmcVIkZnEMz8iyosjLpBZuh6abX5ypCoFk4Y/s1209/20230801_125621.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHDwtyLmBFa45naFcgFRTpi-UzVTeG1297sgzLbFQI-sn1xzayp9E4vUckTYDXk-Zw7Z0RGuuaMaHHfn3VfWXF_tEC9xbknAoqCYoIHeRmhkuWssasvOBq8O1eWmI5QmjUe3s_b7-U_PxvfFIMnGXe47wmcVIkZnEMz8iyosjLpBZuh6abX5ypCoFk4Y/s320/20230801_125621.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKd_7ZF5ci9Uvwq_8kgox8IijaPDq1PYXEBoOFoEaaqS_9aH0cZ8K2ujlGu_37Mjz0mzLGbQ6U8Gjtlok5evhLZABi_yTNt5lgvEAl_dhpLuT1f_HVhRHAkKkY06BAyXniDlaNwCv96up2T5hU7iBl5M0PHyFyxOtwBv0H_oj1DcJPU2V-emA93d0oC0/s1209/20230801_132622.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKd_7ZF5ci9Uvwq_8kgox8IijaPDq1PYXEBoOFoEaaqS_9aH0cZ8K2ujlGu_37Mjz0mzLGbQ6U8Gjtlok5evhLZABi_yTNt5lgvEAl_dhpLuT1f_HVhRHAkKkY06BAyXniDlaNwCv96up2T5hU7iBl5M0PHyFyxOtwBv0H_oj1DcJPU2V-emA93d0oC0/s320/20230801_132622.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si riparte, belli pieni di parole e melone, ed è subito fatica. La strada sale e sale, poi scende un poco, ripida, e risale. Il paesaggio pare quello di Willy Coyote, che sembra di intravedere sopra ad ogni roccione. O forse sono le prime allucinazioni da sforzo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHspvVnTYtDNkcqR6ksXs1AeLUZHAPfTKtgHSc_P7UgGrLWDdGp1vAmMok4cFmzDB25LsxVbIy3MJFczWc-rkEqYnsgaPh3nnAT90Xok6LuzXW4mMXYDguYFQ3ibTnt3DtN0Qreb_nsk8jtDiYPvbhmARa_4EHzLBSIyRS_7L840OhNjKO4SLJj3wWmBk/s1209/20230801_133909.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHspvVnTYtDNkcqR6ksXs1AeLUZHAPfTKtgHSc_P7UgGrLWDdGp1vAmMok4cFmzDB25LsxVbIy3MJFczWc-rkEqYnsgaPh3nnAT90Xok6LuzXW4mMXYDguYFQ3ibTnt3DtN0Qreb_nsk8jtDiYPvbhmARa_4EHzLBSIyRS_7L840OhNjKO4SLJj3wWmBk/s320/20230801_133909.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MY7sw3qT8jXvAQuRpDUZqqOgRbbr6MSUxzcUxUOROIXasDR-zKNofhCOI_Evizy0CICpObODxEEVSZUsStBVk9I1H4I5FbojMufzKt2psJfWO6X-bqmcYr5-ejfwBeQWJe68pXnfpBuYV6ZODWMxeeyoPbeVQ-AvsCb_1v9lHInwsB3cENIx-n8Wogg/s1209/20230801_143433.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MY7sw3qT8jXvAQuRpDUZqqOgRbbr6MSUxzcUxUOROIXasDR-zKNofhCOI_Evizy0CICpObODxEEVSZUsStBVk9I1H4I5FbojMufzKt2psJfWO6X-bqmcYr5-ejfwBeQWJe68pXnfpBuYV6ZODWMxeeyoPbeVQ-AvsCb_1v9lHInwsB3cENIx-n8Wogg/s320/20230801_143433.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente raggiungiamo i due terzi di tappa all'unica città vera e propria, l'ultima di Oaxaca: Teotitlan de Flores Magon. Un tempo si chiamava Teotitlan del camino, ma poi è stata intitolata a Jesus, Enrique e Ricardo Flores Magon, che insieme si opposero al regime di Porfirio Diaz e furono precursori della rivoluzione. Si trova su un cocuzzolo di collina, ripido e tremendo da scalare e altrettanto ripido e tremendo da affrontare in discesa, considerando dossi, buche e traffico.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt74xDt4fI_-kp-dQhfFyhGDrXLG0z8VHOFytrIvgV3G_hhTLy7bFC176PmoUNkKvRwyc4xjIeP_tDK5qnept6HcSBwJIrzEV6Nh1LuSL-ZHhuD3honuZa8rHOIaCcQPqQ5IbPbHQ2558P48mcSELJ8GWMDQzwq8kRrRN7Ua1i8IpMH16DBR0IhGKlyQE/s1209/20230801_143802.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt74xDt4fI_-kp-dQhfFyhGDrXLG0z8VHOFytrIvgV3G_hhTLy7bFC176PmoUNkKvRwyc4xjIeP_tDK5qnept6HcSBwJIrzEV6Nh1LuSL-ZHhuD3honuZa8rHOIaCcQPqQ5IbPbHQ2558P48mcSELJ8GWMDQzwq8kRrRN7Ua1i8IpMH16DBR0IhGKlyQE/s320/20230801_143802.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non facciamo soste, perchè la strada è ancora lunga e il dislivello impegnativo. Ci lasciamo alle spalle Teotitlan, detta Teo dai local e definita così anche sui colectivos (pure per loro, allora, questi toponimi sono complicati!) e, dopo una foto del ca...ctus, siamo al confine. Qui salutiamo Oaxaca, che tanto ci ha regalato in bellezza e conoscenza, e facciamo il nostro ingresso in Puebla, dopo quasi 2500km pedalati, settimo stato che andiamo ad attraversare in questo lungo viaggio. Per la prima volta non incontriamo nè controlli della polizia nè posti di blocco, e nemmeno archi o monumenti che segnalano l'ingresso nel nuovo territorio. Solo un minuscolo, anonimo, triste cartello. Puebla, ma come sei dimessa!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Foto e via, lungo il drittone in discesa che buca l'orizzonte e ci riporta in valle, tra canneti e boschi misti di cactus e piante dal fusto liscio e verde chiaro, contente dei deserti.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftKhk1aVhLJtdl89vUj9aJTArstl6pZHwSSLoM7L7o1aBkDI1aZthDQNsdbBrPErkLCuuuBhLM_ZPhhn-koapplWz8gVupSsJ6NLIU-C8-4ch7yeKzpNImY7XcHql4GM3F6rTCWFYbGaGN2MQOwt713oPUS8XfMnxqg0KP5IY84fTqIMMmzCDq1-G0f0/s1209/20230801_144712.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftKhk1aVhLJtdl89vUj9aJTArstl6pZHwSSLoM7L7o1aBkDI1aZthDQNsdbBrPErkLCuuuBhLM_ZPhhn-koapplWz8gVupSsJ6NLIU-C8-4ch7yeKzpNImY7XcHql4GM3F6rTCWFYbGaGN2MQOwt713oPUS8XfMnxqg0KP5IY84fTqIMMmzCDq1-G0f0/s320/20230801_144712.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8yedZMzQwoRMdyjsNTOljvwQ-x_zF_xf_6Jq0Y55dFtLC0TZYM4b3BjEZgZpoJfFQC6O-skvdlCN1qBANm7MAuyzPXegUkJzsefcJUpcZAoYDuDHpzr3h0VytFt1MqKXGeeXqUEbaL5B5gKXiSDpbfMIx5jN4U_Jo4QC_aiP2RvSFx6uiCz3U39U898/s1209/20230801_145731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8yedZMzQwoRMdyjsNTOljvwQ-x_zF_xf_6Jq0Y55dFtLC0TZYM4b3BjEZgZpoJfFQC6O-skvdlCN1qBANm7MAuyzPXegUkJzsefcJUpcZAoYDuDHpzr3h0VytFt1MqKXGeeXqUEbaL5B5gKXiSDpbfMIx5jN4U_Jo4QC_aiP2RvSFx6uiCz3U39U898/s320/20230801_145731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtj_AmadzVkd1URx7NTJINpl125TCC69C-ujHuArHkB5Vxq1iyvZGHyBStqEpZmPlnh__BsPyVwIc2-fTb9361_t2aw22f1MWy86xe2fGS1yfch53xCh3yOfwhvXLA5RQOlouSUwr0DaJpeBpN5xPhiuSet4OjXmoxY2qudV7Ef3Nbr4UbftPP0czoI88/s1209/20230801_152223.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtj_AmadzVkd1URx7NTJINpl125TCC69C-ujHuArHkB5Vxq1iyvZGHyBStqEpZmPlnh__BsPyVwIc2-fTb9361_t2aw22f1MWy86xe2fGS1yfch53xCh3yOfwhvXLA5RQOlouSUwr0DaJpeBpN5xPhiuSet4OjXmoxY2qudV7Ef3Nbr4UbftPP0czoI88/s320/20230801_152223.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRxqb3Ene53dEcwBuigMDBRTlq6ROYBPDdoPVv1_Bb_x1bdsXOGwV42ZYUfWq6XDT2W8KT1QUZXki778wpVlmIuoM-ZA8mGsA1pM8z7ueimd4EWGAAKOU8wpIYA7Y25gf70zE-s8YXUz14JbCnE7cjYaSEV18L_-iVw0O3DtRfJRqH8wCYxPhmwVyHrBw/s1209/20230801_154212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRxqb3Ene53dEcwBuigMDBRTlq6ROYBPDdoPVv1_Bb_x1bdsXOGwV42ZYUfWq6XDT2W8KT1QUZXki778wpVlmIuoM-ZA8mGsA1pM8z7ueimd4EWGAAKOU8wpIYA7Y25gf70zE-s8YXUz14JbCnE7cjYaSEV18L_-iVw0O3DtRfJRqH8wCYxPhmwVyHrBw/s320/20230801_154212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdg1IujL2I7SHvIVu09OZ4ukeCoSOKr8f1z9HzjLMPqxghGrYcNElqOV7UO1YqxBQ1_RTpmgTwYGycIb3wXLH4uK_79upWWJNa_-9ifowUkf6jVPbqqtE5tgE5yl6z0Qe6tGFRiLbZfx_AcBZIaP4-69GsoSKxeBa169OemSgEf9i3-OLIGtRhRZcKVLo/s1209/20230801_154216.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdg1IujL2I7SHvIVu09OZ4ukeCoSOKr8f1z9HzjLMPqxghGrYcNElqOV7UO1YqxBQ1_RTpmgTwYGycIb3wXLH4uK_79upWWJNa_-9ifowUkf6jVPbqqtE5tgE5yl6z0Qe6tGFRiLbZfx_AcBZIaP4-69GsoSKxeBa169OemSgEf9i3-OLIGtRhRZcKVLo/s320/20230801_154216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo questo volo in discesa la strada ricomincia a salire, lenta e inesorabile. Ci sono alcuni pueblos ma quasi tutti gli edifici appaiono chiusi o abbandonati da tempo. Anche se manca solo una decina di kilometri, vogliamo fermarci un poco a riposare: caldo e salite ci hanno bollito e ora pure il vento ci si mette contro! Quindi appena sentiamo musica provenire da un localino tiriamo i freni (che fischiano di gioia e consunzione) e accostiamo. E' un anfratto lezzo che vende principalmente alcolici, birra in primis e bottiglie di plastica piene di mezcal e altri distillati. Fuori c'è una tettoia in lamiera e paglia con due tavolini, uno occupato da tre omoni che trincano, l'altro da sei bottiglie di birra da un litro già vuote. Noi ci sediamo con i nostri succhini di frutta e noccioline al tavolo libero, che la signora sgombera dai rifiuti, e ci accorgiamo che i tre ci lumano e parlottano fitto fitto. Poi uno di loro mi mostra il telefono con Maps aperto sugli USA e a gesti mi fa capire che vorrebbe sapere da dove veniamo. Gli rispondo, nel mio ormai fluente spagnolo (più sono cotta, più i freni inibitori cedono) che siamo italiani, non statunitensi! I tre restano letteralmente a bocca aperta, sia perchè non immaginavano fossi in grado di proferir verbo nel loro idioma, sia perchè un italiano vero, loro, non lo hanno mai visto. E, secondo Gigi, anche perchè è cosa rara che una ragazza si rivolga a loro, ma questa è una supposizione non confermata (anche se probabile). Iniziamo a chiacchierare perchè i tre sono troppo curiosi e hanno mille domande da farci. Inoltre sono abbastanza brilli da dimenticare le risposte che do ogni dieci minuti, per cui mi richiedono tutto da capo. Uno, il più anziano (avrà 40 anni), pelle scura scura e occhi arrossati, parla a nome degli altri, che si limitano a far coro e, soprattutto il più giovane, che ha un viso paffuto simpaticissimo, sottolinea l'enorme stupore con espressioni esageratamente meravigliate, da cartone animato, tipo omino delle Pringles. Probabilmente sono i litri di birra che ha in corpo. Quello che parla, spiega che lui e il compare sono di Teo, Oaxaca, e lavorano in piantagioni di canna da zucchero. Qui se ne coltiva assai e viene esportata negli States e pure in Europa. Il terzo, quello che continua a strabuzzare gli occhi e d esclamare ohhhh! con la bocca tondissima, invece, è di Puebla, precisamente Coxcatlan (nostra meta di oggi -quando lo diciamo, ulteriore stupore massimo) e lavora come bracciante nella coltivazione di limoni. A riprova di ciò, balza in piedi e cava dal baule portaoggetti della sua moto un sacchetto da un kilo di limonini piccini, di quelli acidi acidi che qui si usano per le spremute o per condire le insalate. "Tenete! Sono per voi!". Non possiamo che accettare, e tocca caricare il malloppo in bici, nelle mie borse anteriori. Il dono mi terrà compagnia per i successivi 10km di salita. Parliamo ancora, loro continuano a farci domande, e a chiederci se abbiamo assaggiato questo frutto o quel piatto, se ci piaccia il Messico, cosa facciamo in Italia. Io tengo botta, e rispondo cercando di non ridere alle loro reazioni di incredulità sbalordita. Mi fanno i complimenti per il mio spagnolo (adulatori, sto balbettando) e quello che parla dice che lui ha vissuto sette anni in California ma non ha imparato l'inglese perchè lavorava in due ristoranti come aiuto in cucina, 16 ore al giorno, e il tempo restante dormiva. Però ha guadagnato bene ed è tornato qui con un po' di soldini.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ogni due frasi ci chiedono se vogliamo qualcosa da bere. "No, grazie, non beviamo alcolici". Allora ci offrono acqua e Coca Cola, "Volete una tortillita? Un un taquito? Dai!". Ma si sta facendo tardi, e dobbiamo andare. "Qui è sicuro e siamo tutti amici, viaggiate di giorno e state tranquilli!" ci dicono, prima di ringraziamenti e saluti. Questa cosa del viaggiare di giorno ci viene ripetuta continuamente. Chissà che succede di notte su queste strade dove apparentemente non vive quasi nessuno, se non qualche contadino e tre cani randagi. Non riesco a immaginare concreti pericoli, se non magari qualche ubriaco al volante. Ma qualcosa di serio deve pur accadere, con il calare delle tenebre, se tutti continuano a ripeterci questa litania.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbgRuWYstwoU05IKFhc1AlDe7K26apTdaV3ISzfL1t-f-StxcCnNbDBMBXwckYNa7v8WvO9bzvVO3D5j8PqSU1113isCyraRcug12b3mCFAaLZMtQ6InBo39jiqbXJr5Se5AvRSDcTw7kJ7sopcKcT4fMeVYDCJoeoWcaezQfu9WvIUqci8Ssf4x_TL4/s1209/20230801_154956.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbgRuWYstwoU05IKFhc1AlDe7K26apTdaV3ISzfL1t-f-StxcCnNbDBMBXwckYNa7v8WvO9bzvVO3D5j8PqSU1113isCyraRcug12b3mCFAaLZMtQ6InBo39jiqbXJr5Se5AvRSDcTw7kJ7sopcKcT4fMeVYDCJoeoWcaezQfu9WvIUqci8Ssf4x_TL4/s320/20230801_154956.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmVMeLIu9q8O5W_JE3iieIN06alhh81ziRTljpZ0DUAZxI5s7M2Pq-VZpYLEu8-ktSY7Id0qdfFWprvwV7v6vwPszvZvUPlov8NAl0xEaLHyngiGmKP8SiliHBk4jhPFkn2heW_fWoROEjsz7R3ysFZE8AvCSWa8eN1O_nFACQrOquKimSt8yjYH1kKuU/s1210/20230801_161127.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmVMeLIu9q8O5W_JE3iieIN06alhh81ziRTljpZ0DUAZxI5s7M2Pq-VZpYLEu8-ktSY7Id0qdfFWprvwV7v6vwPszvZvUPlov8NAl0xEaLHyngiGmKP8SiliHBk4jhPFkn2heW_fWoROEjsz7R3ysFZE8AvCSWa8eN1O_nFACQrOquKimSt8yjYH1kKuU/s320/20230801_161127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSjnZmiNDyYu0z9bbM4oznK_e1QkM5ZMfAMUNAjZuDWTvB0SuBWBM4lhQ_N3N0Fh9CALd_oBX3lt5JxXTTkPHAmRrX_Eb63m4PqiCqRrMf8N9q-LjSQ7zfgACDOd8kR9eMU02bFrp11XjnVZdpkZIQiYQaUKdv9C7h7hiZtHRZ0oGIXAdwINi_7MksMUE/s1209/20230801_161255.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSjnZmiNDyYu0z9bbM4oznK_e1QkM5ZMfAMUNAjZuDWTvB0SuBWBM4lhQ_N3N0Fh9CALd_oBX3lt5JxXTTkPHAmRrX_Eb63m4PqiCqRrMf8N9q-LjSQ7zfgACDOd8kR9eMU02bFrp11XjnVZdpkZIQiYQaUKdv9C7h7hiZtHRZ0oGIXAdwINi_7MksMUE/s320/20230801_161255.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente torniamo in sella ad affrontare gli ultimi 10km maledetti di salite controvento. Andiamo pianissimo, non abbiamo più forze fisiche nè risorse mentali cui attingere. Ma poi eccoci, finalmente, alla periferia di Coxcatlan, alle prime case. Si sente dai cortili qualche fischio di incoraggiamento, qualche "Dale viejo!" rivolto a Gigi con tono amichevole.</div><div><br /></div><div>Coxcatlan (in nahuatl significa luogo che abbonda di collane di gioielli) è chiamata "la culla del mais" perchè nelle sue grotte si son trovati fossili che testimoniano i primi successi ottenuti dall'uomo, all'epoca ancora nomade (parliamo di diecimila anni fa), nella domesticazione del mais, della zucchina e altre piante.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiysxPdgxa7JWGIVMaH3uxPFqtrmPX17gbJ1Dz_-XZTsFXrRLMTU09ZThHPaDd2LwVb41kb2-vltjib160YksWScUZMeBOTtmg-jnLNOJ8WNVo0yKprX58bzXF4gx1O4Gj-DdHK4tQYRIgLrK2Z-LNxkP72r1c9qhUGlmRbi5dqtquPRBoqD53L4PcpWn4/s979/20230801_170522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiysxPdgxa7JWGIVMaH3uxPFqtrmPX17gbJ1Dz_-XZTsFXrRLMTU09ZThHPaDd2LwVb41kb2-vltjib160YksWScUZMeBOTtmg-jnLNOJ8WNVo0yKprX58bzXF4gx1O4Gj-DdHK4tQYRIgLrK2Z-LNxkP72r1c9qhUGlmRbi5dqtquPRBoqD53L4PcpWn4/s320/20230801_170522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6rXuzSgkof0dslEoPiW3GBtEAloqz3Xb5xfjv8TMTTuko68D9qZ70mgs8bnMX1lovDxPv2OqdheC5g2PNPeLp1WxrrTKTy7UTimGXwScI-upwivQPzdPgZgxPWebREIt3opBvjn3lxDb-QnOfgzqX-NNtCP8sLYW9W6YRIkWuC5OLAkajVWf0W9FANg/s979/20230801_170542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG6rXuzSgkof0dslEoPiW3GBtEAloqz3Xb5xfjv8TMTTuko68D9qZ70mgs8bnMX1lovDxPv2OqdheC5g2PNPeLp1WxrrTKTy7UTimGXwScI-upwivQPzdPgZgxPWebREIt3opBvjn3lxDb-QnOfgzqX-NNtCP8sLYW9W6YRIkWuC5OLAkajVWf0W9FANg/s320/20230801_170542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il paese, nemmeno troppo piccolo e piuttosto vivace, per quanto un po' fatiscente e polveroso, vanta ben tre alberghi. Due sono sicuramente motel a ore, il terzo, dove ci dirigiamo noi, sembra di no. E invece sì, anche lui. Ma ha pure le tariffe per l'intera notte, è discretamente pulito, ha acqua calda e wifi, ed è assai economico. Insomma, perfetto. Solo il quartiere in cui sorge non è proprio Parco della Vittoria, il terreno viola luxury del Monopoli.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhhcCPCyCf5BuGi_QyFiySLY3_G8Hrv-NX8FCYwbO0xoKtY-1VK3whtsd0nrJNCDx7yHX5qlzMqb3cjiOexxI5Mw_k2udocZTgmGdimSoLJldtTfXkYket7Oo2-hu-X2FZsTV1myTOp37y7Tw6SoVKzHjhRFowNtLhEEzEkXC1OW946Nx1CANr2d4WxU/s1209/20230801_190236.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhhcCPCyCf5BuGi_QyFiySLY3_G8Hrv-NX8FCYwbO0xoKtY-1VK3whtsd0nrJNCDx7yHX5qlzMqb3cjiOexxI5Mw_k2udocZTgmGdimSoLJldtTfXkYket7Oo2-hu-X2FZsTV1myTOp37y7Tw6SoVKzHjhRFowNtLhEEzEkXC1OW946Nx1CANr2d4WxU/s320/20230801_190236.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0hATy2xBjheEmtyM0y6gU7Al44WNycnQg3Nsf9ZZsjLhPnP9J2xzxS0G834rM1RG2yvbKLP0RRlrxtPZEJVelHs2yh-THX610lvFOrc0OQF6Q0KWE_qVel3rDJantZQ3qK6v6-YsTuhWrbKL0u_08t_PfsqkJQ1qpEimNit__dV7EoFcZEbV7bSKwQ5U/s1209/20230801_190249.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0hATy2xBjheEmtyM0y6gU7Al44WNycnQg3Nsf9ZZsjLhPnP9J2xzxS0G834rM1RG2yvbKLP0RRlrxtPZEJVelHs2yh-THX610lvFOrc0OQF6Q0KWE_qVel3rDJantZQ3qK6v6-YsTuhWrbKL0u_08t_PfsqkJQ1qpEimNit__dV7EoFcZEbV7bSKwQ5U/s320/20230801_190249.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_dh4dljqSzT87bJz-Ns8MafU8ptIO8Y2FfwV2dk0cFQaIETOnT0vw-JL1wtb5rst8AQfkjueTQpuAeJxqSEakk0KukIllclrgeqRQ8tCgfz4OWw9Dn9WXkN9Ok1G2w0ukZQJgmK22miHLcpuo9pDycoTZgxx7fAiW-ysT2uW655w-H3x2n1EZo_vhc4E/s1209/20230801_191934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_dh4dljqSzT87bJz-Ns8MafU8ptIO8Y2FfwV2dk0cFQaIETOnT0vw-JL1wtb5rst8AQfkjueTQpuAeJxqSEakk0KukIllclrgeqRQ8tCgfz4OWw9Dn9WXkN9Ok1G2w0ukZQJgmK22miHLcpuo9pDycoTZgxx7fAiW-ysT2uW655w-H3x2n1EZo_vhc4E/s320/20230801_191934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsGi4Jwkcplz2CPQPcnQG5KvGY1WjZZvndXgQJgkINvB2-1QpfCc4Uu2qCmuvd7c0fGzxsaE5Yczu2SKRzJFMERwcoHeqNiyQqlDeLhj9ZHfB2c6t71SvGfFFJs09qdSE2-kq5Ag2q_fDEfax58mdRT4xh8wmNCy08bpucHH9ATke_FYk8v5ljZNuGRY/s1209/20230801_192007.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtsGi4Jwkcplz2CPQPcnQG5KvGY1WjZZvndXgQJgkINvB2-1QpfCc4Uu2qCmuvd7c0fGzxsaE5Yczu2SKRzJFMERwcoHeqNiyQqlDeLhj9ZHfB2c6t71SvGfFFJs09qdSE2-kq5Ag2q_fDEfax58mdRT4xh8wmNCy08bpucHH9ATke_FYk8v5ljZNuGRY/s320/20230801_192007.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le corna direi che sono didascaliche</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Usciamo a far la spesa perchè di ristoranti aperti, in zona, non ce ne sono. Ci godiamo la nostra cenetta in camera, e così chiudiamo la giornata in gloria.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvrP_xhJ3-nhzvn6saTHeUVXNSR_IfqGsdhxZAiX1I6oHBjxSMD0AuHzIJr70GMBcU3cfY4k1RbJrqJbbXHfBfPWAbsdfvuIWFKjH0HptGK2iw_22qSDnfbku77E9P8UERQgZC_bGodY0rPDSr8pGH2noZdPV8cKPFFWQ2COKWaYFKu58xuyT07KJONU/s1209/20230801_193711.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvrP_xhJ3-nhzvn6saTHeUVXNSR_IfqGsdhxZAiX1I6oHBjxSMD0AuHzIJr70GMBcU3cfY4k1RbJrqJbbXHfBfPWAbsdfvuIWFKjH0HptGK2iw_22qSDnfbku77E9P8UERQgZC_bGodY0rPDSr8pGH2noZdPV8cKPFFWQ2COKWaYFKu58xuyT07KJONU/s320/20230801_193711.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblPHx4bOMf7A_rrfaGfBXCaPg3t_gPKQhEpZEFVFNS7gn_Mcieuj1KpigOXZcPzS6mXHVRgfha1TU9C8Wu5TPrIhcjZ_YyHvyCE9i4L-0Kg0sIfrxSd-C2NxuSx4PSDlsjO4wzk3KfXANg0E6_g69HgT9vcLjiUKiDY97ntFdXLMtFzEFg4evr033GOw/s320/20230801_190447.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div>Domani ci aspetta un'altra tappa in salita. In 80km torneremo a 2000m di quota, superando Tehuacan e portandoci a una giornata di distanza da Puebla, dove faremo sosta mezza giornata prima di muovere alla volta di Città del Messico.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugx4ZcsSvHAgraBKEixtDniVAimIraEpP2MyNiuh5MZlf8G33_CZNeIxETufCT-Frf8zFsPnUD2EVmKX_EyIuiuPS84R13k4-rkLozR-dj_GfjwiPZidBVZT3ETizIOMl3kKMz3hvkm7up6WKAQp9yhas2FoEKENFEjvoU6XcaiZwp2gxpjdPMSoQw7c/s2048/IMG-20230801-WA0010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugx4ZcsSvHAgraBKEixtDniVAimIraEpP2MyNiuh5MZlf8G33_CZNeIxETufCT-Frf8zFsPnUD2EVmKX_EyIuiuPS84R13k4-rkLozR-dj_GfjwiPZidBVZT3ETizIOMl3kKMz3hvkm7up6WKAQp9yhas2FoEKENFEjvoU6XcaiZwp2gxpjdPMSoQw7c/s320/IMG-20230801-WA0010.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chiudo con una chicca: Gigi è riuscito a immortalarmi nella mia ormai decennale, raffinata arte del fotografare mentre pedalo! </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>2/8</div><div>Coxcatlan-Tlacotepec de Benito Juarez</div><div>80km</div><div><br /></div><div>Quella di oggi è una tappa di puro trasferimento, un macinar kilometri e dislivello. Infatti vedrete poche foto e tutte di stradoni e paesi, anzitutto perchè stanotte il telefono non si è caricato (qui serve l'adattatore e le prese spesso sono lasse e malfunzionanti), in secondo luogo perchè abbiamo pedalato svelti, approfittando del vento a favore e della pendenza costante ma quasi impercettibile.</div><div><br /></div><div>Stamattina, dopo la colazione in camera e un tot di tempo che mi serve per tornare in bolla (ho la pressione bassissima e ogni movimento è un quasi svenimento), partiamo. Vorrei dire con calma, ma così non è. Proprio mentre stiamo chiudendo baracca e burattini, per fortuna a stanza già vuota, Gigi chiude la porta della camera con la chiave dentro e nella toppa. Per entrare serve il fabbro. Allora facciamo i marcioni e fischiettando firulì firulà, consci della malefatta, usciamo dal cortile salutando il portinaio e ci lanciamo giù per i 3km di discesa, in parte sterrati, in parte asfaltati, che ci danno vantaggio su un eventuale inseguimento con esplosione di colpi di arma da fuoco. Mi chiedo quanto spazio sia necessario porre fra noi e l'hotel prima di poterci sentire al sicuro... Dopo 25km considero chiusa la questione. Ecco il vantaggio di non dover mai dare nè documenti nè nome nè altro al check in, solo una banconota che passa di mano in mano, back in black.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo il discesone, che ci riporta a 800m nella valle rovente dei cactus, la strada inizia a salire pian piano, ma così piano che quasi non ci si rende conto. In ciò aiuta il vento a favore, che compensa la leggera pendenza. Arriveremo a superare i 2000m senza quasi accorgerci del dislivello, se non per l'aria finalmente di nuovo fresca.</div><div><br /></div><div>Sulla strada, che ora si fa improvvisamente larga e ben asfaltata, si susseguono paesi di discrete dimensioni, con officine e negozi e fabbriche di mattoni dove gli operai sono intenti a lavorare. Anche nei campi si vedono tanti a schiena curva verso la terra bassa. Dalle botteghe esce musica, che rende tutto più allegro, e profumo di carne soffritta e pane sfornato di fresco. Non ci sono nemmeno i perri mali, oggi, è tutto un idillio!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwpyFDKCb_-i7x3PbJ8adqqf7tm_6DmnnGzPLakHPvuKRyqT4Mv6Y7ZKv9APMmfGX_GtsWNksABWDTz7GW76BejObELdH2b3BzUZW2hZa2AVk9oI4R4xGPTC3ICUwsS_xY0OW5sLXvWq_Ryo0n9DOiNj6QjNJp2P0wU-ARRW4CFKCCWSmCFThIM-D170/s1209/20230802_104515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwpyFDKCb_-i7x3PbJ8adqqf7tm_6DmnnGzPLakHPvuKRyqT4Mv6Y7ZKv9APMmfGX_GtsWNksABWDTz7GW76BejObELdH2b3BzUZW2hZa2AVk9oI4R4xGPTC3ICUwsS_xY0OW5sLXvWq_Ryo0n9DOiNj6QjNJp2P0wU-ARRW4CFKCCWSmCFThIM-D170/s320/20230802_104515.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIciUYqq2T_7L6GUqFeE0Zy4ka66fMlRIfTRLrwsDC1Iu7G8iTcyKdNAjX_Hy6pv-t95zBq7DgAIJdyLjBpkU8a4QkREp-ByAGpRSlyUw_sO68tEWea6mUTjwMaztu_HDD2AGAOvdAmXt-nWQynli9f-te38ks5NMMXJncErotCiU-8xmrplirmqr_p1M/s1209/20230802_121112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIciUYqq2T_7L6GUqFeE0Zy4ka66fMlRIfTRLrwsDC1Iu7G8iTcyKdNAjX_Hy6pv-t95zBq7DgAIJdyLjBpkU8a4QkREp-ByAGpRSlyUw_sO68tEWea6mUTjwMaztu_HDD2AGAOvdAmXt-nWQynli9f-te38ks5NMMXJncErotCiU-8xmrplirmqr_p1M/s320/20230802_121112.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphXUxqhYa8UfAEbJf6MMwMbYTJvqJBbIEoRruBg4cpS5Q_COEpftqS0oQKoSmaI9ys-gQKI3KHmOD17STWUMMH1_mM62b_kXuWwmnSaZylMECsrYirR1V7frGlYRfigF8DNC5oMEDun4R_rAbwFq6MHND0bfpglJap0xnAxm8M9tDl0d5Ua_gvB3We7E/s1209/20230802_121119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphXUxqhYa8UfAEbJf6MMwMbYTJvqJBbIEoRruBg4cpS5Q_COEpftqS0oQKoSmaI9ys-gQKI3KHmOD17STWUMMH1_mM62b_kXuWwmnSaZylMECsrYirR1V7frGlYRfigF8DNC5oMEDun4R_rAbwFq6MHND0bfpglJap0xnAxm8M9tDl0d5Ua_gvB3We7E/s320/20230802_121119.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8Q7b-7xbCJkLQuSmOpBBQYpdEU6wCsQCWiwlVtiiehoqZHiqHTbsm-Szw5XyUEKjk4cX5nx0_1QyYYDVjPXjUUMOtz0eImzyPFhslMlPhoJWz-Rp1og_pkYKfTlKGP9_uT9BJiZ7s75MOupTgaUtH7gYHuE2fNcuA5iykN7CQy2-bJbpX4uTsVprKyg/s1209/20230802_125205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8Q7b-7xbCJkLQuSmOpBBQYpdEU6wCsQCWiwlVtiiehoqZHiqHTbsm-Szw5XyUEKjk4cX5nx0_1QyYYDVjPXjUUMOtz0eImzyPFhslMlPhoJWz-Rp1og_pkYKfTlKGP9_uT9BJiZ7s75MOupTgaUtH7gYHuE2fNcuA5iykN7CQy2-bJbpX4uTsVprKyg/s320/20230802_125205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Proseguiamo svelti fino a metà tappa, che è segnata dalla grande città di Tehuacan, la seconda dello stato di Puebla dopo l'omonima capitale. Questo luogo è abitato da oltre diecimila anni, è stato culla della cultura Popoloca e poi sottomesso dagli aztechi. Il toponimo in nahuatl significa "luogo degli dei". Nel 1660 gli indigeni comprarono alla Corona spagnola i territori, costituendo la Ciudad de Indios. Qui si combatterono battaglie della guerra di indipendenza. Non ci spingiamo in centro, perchè il traffico e la ulteriori salite ci scoraggiano. Sicuramente è una città piacevole, ma molto incasinata. Qui, infatti, hanno sede diverse aziende di produzione della carne di maiale e allevamenti di pollame. Si producono quantità industriali di uova, poi esportate in tutto il paese. Infatti a più riprese rischiamo di essere investiti e diventar frittate dalle manovre azzardate dei camionisti che guidano bestioni a doppio rimorchio carichi di ovetti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkxvv8a-bq2poknt5bx80k2hqhkduN_EOMFwVaFwbx2k7SWzorcCf0SOlsLxk0iiKwtx8DghiuyAr1NdV3PSd_PlVOlIiUJGVp1CIKEQHaJJhrDsGbUaquNPR5Ox6cgmeGpDfZBPIAghJMBpofKo8mOnHsZekD_Qwuj-sWadl8rOUoUmcxDna49Cbrz1M/s1209/20230802_125332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkxvv8a-bq2poknt5bx80k2hqhkduN_EOMFwVaFwbx2k7SWzorcCf0SOlsLxk0iiKwtx8DghiuyAr1NdV3PSd_PlVOlIiUJGVp1CIKEQHaJJhrDsGbUaquNPR5Ox6cgmeGpDfZBPIAghJMBpofKo8mOnHsZekD_Qwuj-sWadl8rOUoUmcxDna49Cbrz1M/s320/20230802_125332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Riusciamo in qualche modo a districarci dal groviglio di traffico e a uscire dalla periferia, a evitare di finire in autostrada e imboccare la statale che porta a nord. Anche qui si susseguono fatiscenti paesini che sorgono intorno alla strada, nel bordo di sabbia e macerie. C'è in vendita di tutto nelle bancarelle improvvisate, dai cappelli di paglia alla crema di cocco fresco, da ricambi usati per auto ad amache, passando per sedie a dondolo, amache e toritos pirotecnici.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMtQ5NO3LN8B_cXZ7MyM0Dz76PDfkkK-ZbT6vZ6Jw713VzfRnRirQd3i2crkUbK5TrEiUfM8vMUQXuQAGgs-R8hWnTBwNwvFgtjbCLjG_ljrcd6zobZ9S9k7pkByL3wmIou6TR1q99O2Yu8fhYlyrO5ieTNjFRfMBDh-BmZlqVNtUnI78GMAqe1BgEBk/s1209/20230802_132413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMtQ5NO3LN8B_cXZ7MyM0Dz76PDfkkK-ZbT6vZ6Jw713VzfRnRirQd3i2crkUbK5TrEiUfM8vMUQXuQAGgs-R8hWnTBwNwvFgtjbCLjG_ljrcd6zobZ9S9k7pkByL3wmIou6TR1q99O2Yu8fhYlyrO5ieTNjFRfMBDh-BmZlqVNtUnI78GMAqe1BgEBk/s320/20230802_132413.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Nr7jQi8l7bMxOl-t5QL0i0jraFqpdltwVzAHH1ZfQzYt_IHuaDsEg5X3-_pThlma2rdgLbm1eMfkWab4FI4GeWov6kCP6WVijbQ82TNjVO9gVOLXmtFTb0HD__vEY0fBPnNlsCMbCBh0JUTKCnwf5x66phm4HBjkS9L_BUafBYaLmdQDCrSD8C3mFPk/s1209/20230802_132416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Nr7jQi8l7bMxOl-t5QL0i0jraFqpdltwVzAHH1ZfQzYt_IHuaDsEg5X3-_pThlma2rdgLbm1eMfkWab4FI4GeWov6kCP6WVijbQ82TNjVO9gVOLXmtFTb0HD__vEY0fBPnNlsCMbCBh0JUTKCnwf5x66phm4HBjkS9L_BUafBYaLmdQDCrSD8C3mFPk/s320/20230802_132416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPskJ0XbSSxD4I-ot0BShM4yppFppS3btK6Io6673ZcHLlmMZFJmo4TjFacdcl-FbjKM3NcPUPHotFhYu_-xfg3zdb6ft7b0IVVHlWGQogEwp9SOqSvMzBaF9O7aRvBVc9Ddp0dLZCprWMEKZ9JxT4iKmiAwu_BYKvyQvQb213GqmghgnZD-yOTiGEBvQ/s1209/20230802_132424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPskJ0XbSSxD4I-ot0BShM4yppFppS3btK6Io6673ZcHLlmMZFJmo4TjFacdcl-FbjKM3NcPUPHotFhYu_-xfg3zdb6ft7b0IVVHlWGQogEwp9SOqSvMzBaF9O7aRvBVc9Ddp0dLZCprWMEKZ9JxT4iKmiAwu_BYKvyQvQb213GqmghgnZD-yOTiGEBvQ/s320/20230802_132424.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_H_vz6Ulburl_wByHdHOaCFAFjXNBTc3p0MniHArjpk0IpA5n9guIyw-V-Z7CnePtThm5vIJCOjPi6zX6f0JiRQmAmHQiPQk0r1UI5pBmoFXDQS-hQrkKta8pY0QO-2Q1OnODAD4utSiuKJEjZkT0UfaIZ0bYOikxJtNMx38czJIJF2C5d0IxVMRRCRk/s1209/20230802_132425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_H_vz6Ulburl_wByHdHOaCFAFjXNBTc3p0MniHArjpk0IpA5n9guIyw-V-Z7CnePtThm5vIJCOjPi6zX6f0JiRQmAmHQiPQk0r1UI5pBmoFXDQS-hQrkKta8pY0QO-2Q1OnODAD4utSiuKJEjZkT0UfaIZ0bYOikxJtNMx38czJIJF2C5d0IxVMRRCRk/s320/20230802_132425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9t4Hr87eWN_m0cQdVySRRgasaaqTmXAeXgBqUQAqkKOfaoreOOLs-pCFgUxfUruJq00WbmYELhZC0iBafdWzFb7rT5VsmmsVAtoyYGQmVZ_ragcd5Al4tLPP8NklqsasOQzvFp4ggefaeO8dYmcpJlPH9evTmjLod6c9BVd4N8qDnhplZLPU2P1ZmIBU/s320/20230802_132439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAuHwY9rv67g5tdvZQbXG7NSGwGm-_i1mxu3_aOUtxgTQD9jewguj3fEyV7HcWEYjUqXgq_C49E0N9l5Ld4qE-ibz71eJF8w08Td1tA6dLhcuFMFtp5vA9huf5JQcYQ7ZKVqfbAbuf5ivnoC0UQ7w_dFuWB9Bng5zRuh7JQFdz4dLd_LwNEOEFzCVgugI/s1209/20230802_133937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAuHwY9rv67g5tdvZQbXG7NSGwGm-_i1mxu3_aOUtxgTQD9jewguj3fEyV7HcWEYjUqXgq_C49E0N9l5Ld4qE-ibz71eJF8w08Td1tA6dLhcuFMFtp5vA9huf5JQcYQ7ZKVqfbAbuf5ivnoC0UQ7w_dFuWB9Bng5zRuh7JQFdz4dLd_LwNEOEFzCVgugI/s320/20230802_133937.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ci concediamo una breve sosta a Tepanco de Lopez, che ha una bella chiesa un piacevole parco al centro. Poi ripartiamo, per scollinare a Cacaloapan.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBa8ss1ZTHeXAhavBrhq9-5lO-buchiIDGOZ9ag9W6oAN5yUY-63ehco2HNh0tNDn9zeUCYYV6Nq6P8mRcSm23D_f8YVLg1XKLF2KBISvEpFRQEJ8O_VcuX-xPb1edVsn9VAUeW0xgdr7698N-ChOdEwpb--CSuOKbFEAForq5CuH3XslQxUq5AfM3UYI/s1209/20230802_135651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBa8ss1ZTHeXAhavBrhq9-5lO-buchiIDGOZ9ag9W6oAN5yUY-63ehco2HNh0tNDn9zeUCYYV6Nq6P8mRcSm23D_f8YVLg1XKLF2KBISvEpFRQEJ8O_VcuX-xPb1edVsn9VAUeW0xgdr7698N-ChOdEwpb--CSuOKbFEAForq5CuH3XslQxUq5AfM3UYI/s320/20230802_135651.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVhRGreZmr-Ok67bJbc8X0dCKAvrcVkZFXmbaACe3mZ8emMpPpnKU-6ESpovpO5cS-31B1AocqZjVni5Yd81Y7glS66I4MuysBTzuhJlyfflRtjJmxSuQm9CWvZYo-FsVIsFFR9pav9RaXxbuzNQpUKMN4BwMY7xOlvzenpJGi8Qqn6KU2PzVqfIjgXI/s1209/20230802_135910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVhRGreZmr-Ok67bJbc8X0dCKAvrcVkZFXmbaACe3mZ8emMpPpnKU-6ESpovpO5cS-31B1AocqZjVni5Yd81Y7glS66I4MuysBTzuhJlyfflRtjJmxSuQm9CWvZYo-FsVIsFFR9pav9RaXxbuzNQpUKMN4BwMY7xOlvzenpJGi8Qqn6KU2PzVqfIjgXI/s320/20230802_135910.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrRTFkx3lQiX7k20B_9sPUnErQ6ZssNsB_H5wus2n9eVSrRDfHKIFwSCkfO0s2xXZWXQzDsHRw4VxCPELovrdHaw_mx1fbEYbDe1Fi7uK9KdjanFUExP0U7ZIOJGRxAWpTZNiJrfEC1pW1a3Ib2jxTVpF1QMe6YuikNOmi87JzMjWEXYPXMW6xjDCo1M/s1209/20230802_135930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrRTFkx3lQiX7k20B_9sPUnErQ6ZssNsB_H5wus2n9eVSrRDfHKIFwSCkfO0s2xXZWXQzDsHRw4VxCPELovrdHaw_mx1fbEYbDe1Fi7uK9KdjanFUExP0U7ZIOJGRxAWpTZNiJrfEC1pW1a3Ib2jxTVpF1QMe6YuikNOmi87JzMjWEXYPXMW6xjDCo1M/s320/20230802_135930.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSvGQ7U_52m37gVot7UOKlOlA4MwkSQ8XbIYcr4aJrEWYLkHq6Djf0twQN56gDiX75eKlO0xPzuwiVGV409mZrqhBUAfvrdzLw2kR2MX9Eue72f_i0kQgA2Q8_ByrC9a8WiMT5nykSw2Zon2uMcHsGtOOLGAjQ_Ov3d2Wqh8npEVkBbSMartYYGEP6F_s/s320/20230802_140318.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Kz_BnaVFaIkcg4YkTX39AO7XJsRgEYv4EVzTBq7njjEIVScdhFTPZQStYnAh6YHbwkio9ViFoHU54ZtRYGrLtHqtUjQbW3-E6MiVbDuwjgtNJ8x9stYxEQ1dz_BDSqG1WtpOWmJNrjz9V3Pj8dRAOS156q_oiKEMMqmg3KGEKE-cHwYrg9pUkpCznVE/s1209/20230802_144514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Kz_BnaVFaIkcg4YkTX39AO7XJsRgEYv4EVzTBq7njjEIVScdhFTPZQStYnAh6YHbwkio9ViFoHU54ZtRYGrLtHqtUjQbW3-E6MiVbDuwjgtNJ8x9stYxEQ1dz_BDSqG1WtpOWmJNrjz9V3Pj8dRAOS156q_oiKEMMqmg3KGEKE-cHwYrg9pUkpCznVE/s320/20230802_144514.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABPdWBoGR8xfdelmmfYekDuYMOIOq0bbKQG3nln8TEBJ7P6tUzqKRBD40Oe2RzBcaP3Ru2MCS9e9VycEoJ2WUugtyO3SiZ_N_YEqfrweOWT-yUuATozlSpmjCeJM7pWwstuKFcRjmg49fOo2nO_lnWcrWnB79J0eJPa5r2TZfI5709KTzM5jJ4-fvXVo/s1209/20230802_144534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABPdWBoGR8xfdelmmfYekDuYMOIOq0bbKQG3nln8TEBJ7P6tUzqKRBD40Oe2RzBcaP3Ru2MCS9e9VycEoJ2WUugtyO3SiZ_N_YEqfrweOWT-yUuATozlSpmjCeJM7pWwstuKFcRjmg49fOo2nO_lnWcrWnB79J0eJPa5r2TZfI5709KTzM5jJ4-fvXVo/s320/20230802_144534.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSdCqXvsFCk0G1YFiMFDJ4igme-SRsBRMzkbY5zBDxyBB63DRQzjZOTTY6bnY-gMIbxMvW3ief3MLYxDZS-6QbZi0an2TGP7vz6PuQGnAdJHEbnfmdj6V4W-xgx4SEQBNh3hyjXxHMnSxzbp47ajVGsxJMsjEaiB0BEA2033QiZJ60cd6MQkMtR1nPq6c/s1209/20230802_144600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSdCqXvsFCk0G1YFiMFDJ4igme-SRsBRMzkbY5zBDxyBB63DRQzjZOTTY6bnY-gMIbxMvW3ief3MLYxDZS-6QbZi0an2TGP7vz6PuQGnAdJHEbnfmdj6V4W-xgx4SEQBNh3hyjXxHMnSxzbp47ajVGsxJMsjEaiB0BEA2033QiZJ60cd6MQkMtR1nPq6c/s320/20230802_144600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaziuHTRQJimlz5iuqkr4wxjX2dslH_a6pq7_Lqvta63hrv3z-ZzcBp61_4iBhvPFJcUjEIDw02h6lU6zh2OEbxpZjnqS5IScl_3lw3V2H-KAWbzUROzq67oqJqhuo2smj3WEoq242LyeFq4mzIQUA3j1fZoXbV4r40aMeDEH9FMWqxoi4mEYBxNaGhY/s1209/20230802_144609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJaziuHTRQJimlz5iuqkr4wxjX2dslH_a6pq7_Lqvta63hrv3z-ZzcBp61_4iBhvPFJcUjEIDw02h6lU6zh2OEbxpZjnqS5IScl_3lw3V2H-KAWbzUROzq67oqJqhuo2smj3WEoq242LyeFq4mzIQUA3j1fZoXbV4r40aMeDEH9FMWqxoi4mEYBxNaGhY/s320/20230802_144609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si scende, si risale, ed eccoci a Tlacotepec, meta di oggi, di nuovo a 2000m, con un'aria frizzantina e qualche brivido di fresco all'ombra. Si respira di nuovo. Questa cittadina è nota per le sue rovine archeologiche, che constano di un paio di piramidi, per la sua chiesa, meta di pellegrinaggio dalla regione, e perchè nel 2018 la Suprema corte di Giustizia della nazione ha sciolto e condannato i membri della giunta municipale perchè non avevano risarcito un cittadino a cui era stato espropriato ingiustamente un terreno.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipSW-FliFsg8yJ92HHGYlRo4YPqgGN7_b4Q4vkEKW5ea5w6ZOiLqI6eh56DLkdC4YtyXi5ut4IDb4gxsoGQ66dYRw90N3qjaq8htuzdkcbb9Ggdi-cx-9FxDqYZUGESDG4TK0mR9ZhMggdaBElC4mddqeQd71oglHUpwT3iOw6Wk-JQ7q67rX3R-9-QwY/s1209/20230802_145303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipSW-FliFsg8yJ92HHGYlRo4YPqgGN7_b4Q4vkEKW5ea5w6ZOiLqI6eh56DLkdC4YtyXi5ut4IDb4gxsoGQ66dYRw90N3qjaq8htuzdkcbb9Ggdi-cx-9FxDqYZUGESDG4TK0mR9ZhMggdaBElC4mddqeQd71oglHUpwT3iOw6Wk-JQ7q67rX3R-9-QwY/s320/20230802_145303.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Be4DSYF3gYX8fABmoMbk8m0KJ9ur_U1cxl0dQuZUaHVp_AudgsCXeHOlkj8Xi2xZBb4tVs2MoH2KXYLF8xzVpjckuacii4dxzBkNKFLf1n7-9FNcG_E4N-tDtUIR9fghR4_Xdqxvnr1GZCRcoJK2f_hvy5p8USH_TaThfY6fcS8SdPI0U5SmmE2Y_qo/s1209/20230802_145309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Be4DSYF3gYX8fABmoMbk8m0KJ9ur_U1cxl0dQuZUaHVp_AudgsCXeHOlkj8Xi2xZBb4tVs2MoH2KXYLF8xzVpjckuacii4dxzBkNKFLf1n7-9FNcG_E4N-tDtUIR9fghR4_Xdqxvnr1GZCRcoJK2f_hvy5p8USH_TaThfY6fcS8SdPI0U5SmmE2Y_qo/s320/20230802_145309.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkbJ4ZHruYQxTopeLXg1THqdCafsjPh8DvGfnxlqamVh2NYT-bc0CH1spdKKpuA4IZlo3Mn7kSYueYL0I7nv7poDFkacOVkAD-7IEHDzMITKgx7CGEvuckesZGnuReAEzg558IoEENOLRWwawd0ivgPOgHXdN-a5dMofZmC2FO2-XMNPPqFZG3_RpY9s/s1209/20230802_150315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkbJ4ZHruYQxTopeLXg1THqdCafsjPh8DvGfnxlqamVh2NYT-bc0CH1spdKKpuA4IZlo3Mn7kSYueYL0I7nv7poDFkacOVkAD-7IEHDzMITKgx7CGEvuckesZGnuReAEzg558IoEENOLRWwawd0ivgPOgHXdN-a5dMofZmC2FO2-XMNPPqFZG3_RpY9s/s320/20230802_150315.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTBlwpWxEOdO_uEVtm3o-VY4946wDhhJkc92XGvMJVgGsNoayqAUmvmLV9xKBxFYIuDj4QCmPMP4WCSD5zN0EziyALrevr68cqoTCDoCz1Yoqz86R4MyuuTDjsSuLn2vBI5sZ5gUW62PNghoGZf-VIKWYzbCNDJMUZFPVEVvnR54Bey9adSDvv23DxY6s/s1209/20230802_153005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTBlwpWxEOdO_uEVtm3o-VY4946wDhhJkc92XGvMJVgGsNoayqAUmvmLV9xKBxFYIuDj4QCmPMP4WCSD5zN0EziyALrevr68cqoTCDoCz1Yoqz86R4MyuuTDjsSuLn2vBI5sZ5gUW62PNghoGZf-VIKWYzbCNDJMUZFPVEVvnR54Bey9adSDvv23DxY6s/s320/20230802_153005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFc2pSf_BpbCKDeak9_n_7C9xURSEQckT5MClywYUE3PEGWIztZnk6Tyg4xrceFZcZBwk0p8y4UxUvPH8rjZLpxwI3-ZBBrza49-dKKlEvLAYAPFVhFYsyZE-D9NwkGlNjHY_FX9V29GMtz9sHH326gDt6BXGrTfAS8gEmFjKVH321JM-R99uo5JUjDM/s1209/20230802_153018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFc2pSf_BpbCKDeak9_n_7C9xURSEQckT5MClywYUE3PEGWIztZnk6Tyg4xrceFZcZBwk0p8y4UxUvPH8rjZLpxwI3-ZBBrza49-dKKlEvLAYAPFVhFYsyZE-D9NwkGlNjHY_FX9V29GMtz9sHH326gDt6BXGrTfAS8gEmFjKVH321JM-R99uo5JUjDM/s320/20230802_153018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQf3PpQZbt9-aLFVzBkNR0H7hKAFPqv4pM9wkhKZGS-NYG_W_oni7RIeT4BwYMJ5Whs1wzXzowCySe8RBV6tUeFBHy5UUZpSJLbGD5iZchSDCVdQbxu9q3uwOcrtf0ehq1_O2M2NGbfnIM5x6RQAtRomNfWM8kv8v5AW60UZ7J6M-tqrwR8m37gX0kZIw/s1209/20230802_190853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQf3PpQZbt9-aLFVzBkNR0H7hKAFPqv4pM9wkhKZGS-NYG_W_oni7RIeT4BwYMJ5Whs1wzXzowCySe8RBV6tUeFBHy5UUZpSJLbGD5iZchSDCVdQbxu9q3uwOcrtf0ehq1_O2M2NGbfnIM5x6RQAtRomNfWM8kv8v5AW60UZ7J6M-tqrwR8m37gX0kZIw/s320/20230802_190853.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Prendiamo una camera in un alberghino in centro, che pare chiuso e in ristrutturazione, ma un paio di camere le ha, mentre il resto dell'edificio è sventrato e senza serramenti. C'è tutto, dall'acqua calda al wifi, da una discreta pulizia alla vicinanza ai negozi dove andiamo a far spesa per la cena. Intanto organizzo i prossimi giorni, che saranno ben pieni: ci aspettano Puebla, domani, e Città del Messico, poi, che è sconfinata e richiede grande attenzione logistica ma anche un forziere traboccante di tesori culturali. Fremo all'idea di tuffarmici, come Paperon de' Paperoni nel deposito!</div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-63827529485466035002023-07-31T07:11:00.001+02:002023-07-31T07:11:43.687+02:0037-39. Oaxaca e Monte Albán. Fiestas e storia. La complessa, insondabile, oceanica profondità delle culture locali<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2PzhAGH8jGMsh-StG7jhB3mAy2BsX8LpQnjtfvFM1Mg2L4iReSmGEmR7i3-rWdpGiWbNd8ec73TQomTSZaZ9c03MkCqOwTE31pExcEmb0LzxCTqK5YS4FWh1pdNMD9ulWR49jSGiRz-LEreFYHzXILTnspK1lSX_lt8PfwF6jQQhKaG9pzb2E27Dkvg/s1209/20230730_115839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2PzhAGH8jGMsh-StG7jhB3mAy2BsX8LpQnjtfvFM1Mg2L4iReSmGEmR7i3-rWdpGiWbNd8ec73TQomTSZaZ9c03MkCqOwTE31pExcEmb0LzxCTqK5YS4FWh1pdNMD9ulWR49jSGiRz-LEreFYHzXILTnspK1lSX_lt8PfwF6jQQhKaG9pzb2E27Dkvg/w640-h480/20230730_115839.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFEUIYr84-PMo458AAb81XVPQxmUQ8BOKRevA5G8XoZ42-5PbFbsnHBjLycNhmMKRRV3u5agjSU5140CkRHNocwkCU7wPN51223ooAkDO3vOIqTUg7WBPYlLq4Fwf_pR_4t3ek3L3cjq4DpupiLPw2cVEBnyttnzc2OF0Wu4ybxf8cF5uzGdHdISr1b6g/s4032/20230729_190926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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Abbiamo da pedalare una tappa impegnativa, per distanze e dislivello. Ma la meta sprona ad affrontare la fatica: finalmente arriveremo ad Oaxaca, capitale dello stato omonimo, intrigante destinazione in cui si fondono cultura, tradizioni secolari, cucina raffinatissima, street art, musica, spiritualità, sapiente artigianato e coloratissima caciara festante generalizzata. Qui faremo un paio di giorni di sosta, perchè siamo bolliti dagli ultimi 11, percorsi di fila a suon di centinaia di kilometri e migliaia di metri di dislivello. Insomma, una pausa ce la meritiamo! Anche perchè poi dovremo tornare nelle montagne, alla Sierra norte, per attraversare lo stato di Puebla e raggiungere Città del Messico, passando al cospetto di sua maestà il Popo(catepetl).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Questa notte non ho praticamente dormito, un po' per i latrati dei cani che han litigato a bande di randagi tutta la notte, un po' perchè ogni paio d'ore qualcuno bussava con violenza sul portone metallico del cortile, chiedendo asilo. La signora del turno di notte non ha aperto a nessuno, anzi ha cacciato via tutti a male parole; probabilmente si trattava di noti borrachos di paese.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quindi, quando suona la sveglia, sono presente a me stessa e alla realtà molto poco. Quasi per niente. Ma un paio di tortillas con marmellata e riemergo dal mondo dei più. Pronti, via. L'aria è limpida, chiarissima e fresca al punto da richiedere un antivento. Siamo pur sempre a 1500m!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrS2WLvBhEuiU96Eaud3rBzSs5D3YdS44WScxAOuN2UfZBXr1UmsfUSTtRzAknF579PMUR_mnnlK4MSumSYOlEDY_tybLjhcLtWx9wIzgME2UKzLjd5YYSdLEUyt01xdSma3aH2er6yAXpvd7xmZLMKg1zdhCjcwXwLaxiFTGyhUMVnVVD6xSZBjkVcA/s1209/20230728_080508.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrS2WLvBhEuiU96Eaud3rBzSs5D3YdS44WScxAOuN2UfZBXr1UmsfUSTtRzAknF579PMUR_mnnlK4MSumSYOlEDY_tybLjhcLtWx9wIzgME2UKzLjd5YYSdLEUyt01xdSma3aH2er6yAXpvd7xmZLMKg1zdhCjcwXwLaxiFTGyhUMVnVVD6xSZBjkVcA/s320/20230728_080508.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Salutiamo Villa sola de Vega, che è pervasa da un profumo di pane appena sfornato e mais arrostito. Le vie sono ancora tranquille, e noi ne approfittiamo per uscire in fretta dal centro abitato. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lKbSLbUs_ttBRlh41w6ulbm-oghPizgoYyYZRVUzvmcxciwV8xkKKG9WXiCZmX8sGRJzO6idoujdb559wbg9u1lCNNxfT9xBbq5cDWBKr9P2n383iAuyjTGPjw8R1fWzj1ZDrfQi0YXN0Zg_CqMwFl7o2i8xWi9W8xppNndIMuHDkmEyvb3yRkDTVCU/s1209/20230728_080622.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lKbSLbUs_ttBRlh41w6ulbm-oghPizgoYyYZRVUzvmcxciwV8xkKKG9WXiCZmX8sGRJzO6idoujdb559wbg9u1lCNNxfT9xBbq5cDWBKr9P2n383iAuyjTGPjw8R1fWzj1ZDrfQi0YXN0Zg_CqMwFl7o2i8xWi9W8xppNndIMuHDkmEyvb3yRkDTVCU/s320/20230728_080622.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi_ExtpKFe_OqWw3BqDig0RgQKI871jnLERehy_udIKzAMx8wnUfLC7gS4bfsWGcBniGYMXCe2fH18CHOtwAU7xr0RDB0lXi2YQp9NvcbYDeN3dYDxy9AQQ21NKS4u4DOn93ugiJHTvWb1-KoA0Y3O6-pO0NBucd_kYk6tU3R6XWKt6EiRO5rBKhD8Mj0/s1209/20230728_080635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi_ExtpKFe_OqWw3BqDig0RgQKI871jnLERehy_udIKzAMx8wnUfLC7gS4bfsWGcBniGYMXCe2fH18CHOtwAU7xr0RDB0lXi2YQp9NvcbYDeN3dYDxy9AQQ21NKS4u4DOn93ugiJHTvWb1-KoA0Y3O6-pO0NBucd_kYk6tU3R6XWKt6EiRO5rBKhD8Mj0/s320/20230728_080635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JHUfTUhvZ6c4SEGz3AynF7Mmf_jgbAs3lsgWcMuzepnXrTGjBd68haSwroXs-EB56lRqKiLJ2QhC82G082pt-s2mB69VcSX5X6MhLGml70tSHWmNhgHHJ2WVvOC73nZ0bIGjBY_H0FIPACu3bezAQakOp2J4jshMY4rUVpyGlaYI0l7lgPRyBk8Sa9Q/s1209/20230728_080701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JHUfTUhvZ6c4SEGz3AynF7Mmf_jgbAs3lsgWcMuzepnXrTGjBd68haSwroXs-EB56lRqKiLJ2QhC82G082pt-s2mB69VcSX5X6MhLGml70tSHWmNhgHHJ2WVvOC73nZ0bIGjBY_H0FIPACu3bezAQakOp2J4jshMY4rUVpyGlaYI0l7lgPRyBk8Sa9Q/s320/20230728_080701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRzU95vuyW80ixxAtpCezq9f_DUc83P6AgEYGkYlKnsjHpcDArP-1aJq_9I9mady72ycfTCZW-Lg2Wzonj3KCaSl-uonN5gyyrTDkZjzVt3POG2HA1U1WGUxYYZy05rSbgAwVz-gC64GgcfVfHFub9cyyWoST0-c2E6ZfsQ35GagRqtVyEFcV6ckB_vXA/s1209/20230728_081338.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRzU95vuyW80ixxAtpCezq9f_DUc83P6AgEYGkYlKnsjHpcDArP-1aJq_9I9mady72ycfTCZW-Lg2Wzonj3KCaSl-uonN5gyyrTDkZjzVt3POG2HA1U1WGUxYYZy05rSbgAwVz-gC64GgcfVfHFub9cyyWoST0-c2E6ZfsQ35GagRqtVyEFcV6ckB_vXA/s320/20230728_081338.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Si comincia subito a salire, ma i primi kilometri sono mossi e non mancano pure delle piacevolissime discesine. I paesi, qui a valle, sono numerosi, per quanto minuscoli, e si susseguono in fretta uno dopo l'altro. Ognuno ha un servizio: nel primo c'è il fabbro, nel secondo il meccanico auto, nel terzo il serramentista e nel quarto la farmacia. In tutti dei cani maledetti dalle divinità, che ci inseguono sbavando e mostrando i denti. Qualcuno rischia una sassata, questa volta per davvero. Spesso escono, dopo gran baccano di urla e abbaiare, i padroni, che dicono la classica frase che usa anche da noi: "Non mordono, non fanno niente!". Magari, testaccia di ca', se non li incattivissi a calci e fame, sarebbe pure vero. E volano da parte mia i cabronazo, huevonazo, te mato los perros de mierda e altre delicatezze apprese già lo scorso anno in Perù. Soprattutto quando i proprietari stanno lì, quasi divertiti, ad assistere alla scenetta dei cani che ci attaccano, noi che scendiamo dalle bici e iniziamo a gridar loro contro sempre camminando, sassaiole sparse ecc. In quei casi tirerei delle mattonate in capo ai padroni. Che fastidio. Già è faticoso, così diventa stressante.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgftbrsfLqSZgz3VbgzAWfZ_C9S72Dku-jzcEVGuoxnaj9Ne4RmSVlAnVhvP9jVNkqmEx9-MTeMGcnp7agx1kMSAl8gmUssvSouGlEhkFINX3TbwMsANuVjBvRtiM82zU32wKFTAavirOyppK7TlBIQwW726FmwlnXfaCQlbCmHsfKiaIzgx-GXAzVonfk/s1209/20230728_082159.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgftbrsfLqSZgz3VbgzAWfZ_C9S72Dku-jzcEVGuoxnaj9Ne4RmSVlAnVhvP9jVNkqmEx9-MTeMGcnp7agx1kMSAl8gmUssvSouGlEhkFINX3TbwMsANuVjBvRtiM82zU32wKFTAavirOyppK7TlBIQwW726FmwlnXfaCQlbCmHsfKiaIzgx-GXAzVonfk/s320/20230728_082159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwcqiBgl10k6_PH8vAQ8whxsupP85aCuofbn19RNxbmeIuJl-7xZFsA8RBIGtr7KqHLvWbUYB53SGV6CaMD3rrUU69qP6oXE1NQJTfy_L1ZMO4DH6tM4xoHAc7zMoZ8XXKuEGDJTUt9-SQH5T0pNEG4Cy72WMYSEVKd30PVo392-OUVAWkV5_BXjcKxhs/s1209/20230728_082618.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwcqiBgl10k6_PH8vAQ8whxsupP85aCuofbn19RNxbmeIuJl-7xZFsA8RBIGtr7KqHLvWbUYB53SGV6CaMD3rrUU69qP6oXE1NQJTfy_L1ZMO4DH6tM4xoHAc7zMoZ8XXKuEGDJTUt9-SQH5T0pNEG4Cy72WMYSEVKd30PVo392-OUVAWkV5_BXjcKxhs/s320/20230728_082618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhna0geFQJHKb96RwXGtLuJpKZFIAd38Z0wUWJ-FKqeHv8SF9oAp3JK0PG51Mi1tGxpZwfDR76VJYIWP7jj5yyrqkdIQT_u_uzQu-5VejrntEqCl0qvBDQH44X9SaoANlvKBzQvW7ekrw4NJNMX35KV0RXrfcviREmzsGG40eR39fsEiIxRA9tr6OsjAso/s1209/20230728_082642.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhna0geFQJHKb96RwXGtLuJpKZFIAd38Z0wUWJ-FKqeHv8SF9oAp3JK0PG51Mi1tGxpZwfDR76VJYIWP7jj5yyrqkdIQT_u_uzQu-5VejrntEqCl0qvBDQH44X9SaoANlvKBzQvW7ekrw4NJNMX35KV0RXrfcviREmzsGG40eR39fsEiIxRA9tr6OsjAso/s320/20230728_082642.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiz05P7F1LkY7sJzr6r261yLKOkxRDhgQho0tlbYe47JIk6L8csxvqlZUNCL7CX6rSbd5qeN7B84uLd42rJnsnM5DZ9QIp7oj68GG727Y62BWYDRsZWDoP_yuCuNhRp1qrMCrjcZKyRBsa_Vpq9aRUo9TarC8sbUg8HFgtCrDZoK5YUJqr6v2YjODa7U8/s1209/20230728_083203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiz05P7F1LkY7sJzr6r261yLKOkxRDhgQho0tlbYe47JIk6L8csxvqlZUNCL7CX6rSbd5qeN7B84uLd42rJnsnM5DZ9QIp7oj68GG727Y62BWYDRsZWDoP_yuCuNhRp1qrMCrjcZKyRBsa_Vpq9aRUo9TarC8sbUg8HFgtCrDZoK5YUJqr6v2YjODa7U8/s320/20230728_083203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Mentre temo di aver insultato qualche malavitoso che ora ci insegue in auto e ci spara nella schiena, la strada inizia a impennare. Ecco qua l'ultimo passo da affrontare, poco sotto ai 2000m. Ci muoviamo tra boschi e fitta vegetazione, in un silenzio che è infranto dallo stormire di foglie al vento e qualche canto d'uccello tra i rami.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtgK6NUDnJylZmfX0mqDm8zifOSIGtec69YAjBUaBu-3FfD049tbJLKtmXPLifYZUv7lzb6p69sWT0gMp74d_hnSOWwi9ugo0aNrqZuYRjZK4iHPe2TyLgBI8RoBwbWdjqH7dB3OPOyKEzlh7JylJkAUv976q_Jd_XZAWLI73_vsLchpSnvk_yCCmM_OI/s1209/20230728_095345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtgK6NUDnJylZmfX0mqDm8zifOSIGtec69YAjBUaBu-3FfD049tbJLKtmXPLifYZUv7lzb6p69sWT0gMp74d_hnSOWwi9ugo0aNrqZuYRjZK4iHPe2TyLgBI8RoBwbWdjqH7dB3OPOyKEzlh7JylJkAUv976q_Jd_XZAWLI73_vsLchpSnvk_yCCmM_OI/s320/20230728_095345.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispGFeKmCWQPGyErKzXSGhcaYGCsIVjHdN-toIp-QRIGlFqq3NQOGjVS9rFRLxFKeRmgsPP28DuGK8nuTpjTjOeswXCIyfaQVE22OwMS5_bc9iT4XDxIvOZ2XUBTobU76ywK8MhH03NG2C74q03XWiodBMKJL1CH8ge5D2NU75g_A30X78Fd-EzaQJtgA/s1209/20230728_095401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispGFeKmCWQPGyErKzXSGhcaYGCsIVjHdN-toIp-QRIGlFqq3NQOGjVS9rFRLxFKeRmgsPP28DuGK8nuTpjTjOeswXCIyfaQVE22OwMS5_bc9iT4XDxIvOZ2XUBTobU76ywK8MhH03NG2C74q03XWiodBMKJL1CH8ge5D2NU75g_A30X78Fd-EzaQJtgA/s320/20230728_095401.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxAtlgsfT_dgYVzPozl60v9O5MYAaTxe2KLLSg_Ro-mITUE751oS6zMxNf1vjrWUxyMppcEbAN8QC2veCefk2q4crXYa1KeYkP1rX4lf6imKLhYJI-PGHuxOSdgueuJ0W_Ciuw9KtpuFeQ1jU2Vxw5SFcQcJo9FrlG90YiZCLkHUoOiKpm9ZoHjzQenk/s1209/20230728_100621.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxAtlgsfT_dgYVzPozl60v9O5MYAaTxe2KLLSg_Ro-mITUE751oS6zMxNf1vjrWUxyMppcEbAN8QC2veCefk2q4crXYa1KeYkP1rX4lf6imKLhYJI-PGHuxOSdgueuJ0W_Ciuw9KtpuFeQ1jU2Vxw5SFcQcJo9FrlG90YiZCLkHUoOiKpm9ZoHjzQenk/s320/20230728_100621.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo una quindicina di kilometri, finalmente, si scollina e inizia una discesa spettacolare, non troppo ripida nè troppo tortuosa. Si possono non toccare mai i freni, e seguire le anse larghe della strada mentre intorno il paesaggio si fonde in una macchia d'acquarello verde e azzurra. I paesi ricompaiono, e i cani anche, ma stavolta facciamo loro delle gran pernacchie perchè stiamo scendendo veloci come proiettili e siamo irraggiungibili.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFEASKYjpLV7PG2MGF2rNQD7gss7qdfI_FCnZoeTgmMM39aYIw1mJjtnrqbD5Xa8se8LWYzqbBZ6TFgAgZRK3q8n8i8Xj0cYW2S0vEt-SxzBbQKnEmKEP9d82tgw-xmaP9ROMUMOnwK9X5nssvYMJcxeeC0meDijQfkdgacYeMulx9mT-k4mdeU2w_lM/s1209/20230728_103351.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFEASKYjpLV7PG2MGF2rNQD7gss7qdfI_FCnZoeTgmMM39aYIw1mJjtnrqbD5Xa8se8LWYzqbBZ6TFgAgZRK3q8n8i8Xj0cYW2S0vEt-SxzBbQKnEmKEP9d82tgw-xmaP9ROMUMOnwK9X5nssvYMJcxeeC0meDijQfkdgacYeMulx9mT-k4mdeU2w_lM/s320/20230728_103351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUS4PVEcBQM2iOCc8ZAzNWeZldI2BHxY7r69vV24A2QAFGlseSqEIwXcPKzRoqayl8WgOh4OVBPIpLvLWDKMKDWwNBslThtgprrnQa8G1vpDKzzTxVfXc9TJ2Q_Ps816-B74EWVMKxKNLFbsAeCqrAeUv8wJgW0-uEpRSEtS0B8NxWsNBfl57wPc3zM4s/s1209/20230728_103400.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUS4PVEcBQM2iOCc8ZAzNWeZldI2BHxY7r69vV24A2QAFGlseSqEIwXcPKzRoqayl8WgOh4OVBPIpLvLWDKMKDWwNBslThtgprrnQa8G1vpDKzzTxVfXc9TJ2Q_Ps816-B74EWVMKxKNLFbsAeCqrAeUv8wJgW0-uEpRSEtS0B8NxWsNBfl57wPc3zM4s/s320/20230728_103400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPilI5gNDeMqi-zb7gZUX0owolOlg5FQquaSgoVNJEb1aRiO00kGPvosXpjAqc9xLTp6Un_pzel079hVF0rSjIMGXRAPGZIo5d-ielpAxzqNTM_CsdA4ynmA5r0ZFJB_2tRfcEH3SK4bIgkS6dXWQgEuIzxB1y6_TN0Pd6STcZnswegyoZT_OO8jeHkSk/s1209/20230728_103555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPilI5gNDeMqi-zb7gZUX0owolOlg5FQquaSgoVNJEb1aRiO00kGPvosXpjAqc9xLTp6Un_pzel079hVF0rSjIMGXRAPGZIo5d-ielpAxzqNTM_CsdA4ynmA5r0ZFJB_2tRfcEH3SK4bIgkS6dXWQgEuIzxB1y6_TN0Pd6STcZnswegyoZT_OO8jeHkSk/s320/20230728_103555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitCNUcGFiwOqKQORlPnZXV59Zw30KE4dH54xUvwxFEqH2yiZJ6ZNQS9Qh94SJcDdKHC6GEt4pAyQCAb6H1cOMPvfn15duNHGO4gWCqcny010PckKUqhzrCgoM1FWYBOmxsUmL4hIYwYuWMnWhFGl7GIlprGh-xzl1jEnYT3AqvDSIGSWseb67pKCXMiX0/s1209/20230728_103700.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitCNUcGFiwOqKQORlPnZXV59Zw30KE4dH54xUvwxFEqH2yiZJ6ZNQS9Qh94SJcDdKHC6GEt4pAyQCAb6H1cOMPvfn15duNHGO4gWCqcny010PckKUqhzrCgoM1FWYBOmxsUmL4hIYwYuWMnWhFGl7GIlprGh-xzl1jEnYT3AqvDSIGSWseb67pKCXMiX0/s320/20230728_103700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Davanti a noi, per la prima volta dopo giorni, l'orizzonte si apre un poco e la vista spazia, non più frenata da file di monti ma libera di correre lungo un altopiano tutto colline e campi coltivati. Ci siamo, abbiamo raggiunto il cuore dell'Oaxaca. La strada, in verità, ancora per diversi kilometri sale e scende con rampe brevi ma ripide, che si susseguono a giro stretto. Il che, sommato al leggero vento contrario, ci rende la pedalata lenta e penosa. Ma proseguiamo, la città ci chiama.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwrpzsW4-s4N7oWT0mIhosVWEJvNC2ASLtYR9ylrqiM7xUZk-5c8FL6oq45gxHEAL8JjwMIdBDizGFEX3BxFKqEYgfPyWNlXPgLJDDRw-M64vmLuDuSP0Iu_hrDQMcnvLBgU4WZt1bQn97yW2GyF3F4gzEK47mMmnpuLjOF4jucTY3CnoFQr7kquVX5I/s1209/20230728_103803.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwrpzsW4-s4N7oWT0mIhosVWEJvNC2ASLtYR9ylrqiM7xUZk-5c8FL6oq45gxHEAL8JjwMIdBDizGFEX3BxFKqEYgfPyWNlXPgLJDDRw-M64vmLuDuSP0Iu_hrDQMcnvLBgU4WZt1bQn97yW2GyF3F4gzEK47mMmnpuLjOF4jucTY3CnoFQr7kquVX5I/s320/20230728_103803.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Una volta in valle i paesi si susseguono quasi senza soluzione di continuità, e non sono più microscopici come quelli in altura. Sono cittadine, con la chiesa e le case in muratura, qualche negozietto, il mercato e gli ambulanti con il megafono che strillano "Tacos! Tortas! Quesadillas!". Facciamo sosta a poco meno di metà tappa, in una bodeguita che vende di tutto, ha i bagni e un paio di tavolini. Accanto ai tavolini ci sono enormi sacchi di cibo secco per animali, e un gatto ruba kili di croccantini saltandoci dentro. Infatti è il primo gatto grasso che vedo qui in Messico. Ci sono anche nubi di moscerini, e dobbiamo far la doccia con l'Autan perchè, oltre a essere fastidiosi ed entrare in ogni orifizio, pungono pure. In compenso scordo di mettere la crema solare e, a fine tappa, mi ritrovo completamente bruciata, color camaron, come dicono qui per insultare i bianchi. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF24aCyv10PRCEXIapeQcElC9ln2KNIBw1S5fSY74L2T1JGZYx4ryqNH6T3eocvG0YPawWFElUheaLEIQCT-wWapCPo7ViI2AZvp5Fb-RQ8OvB4CsSRiyyYvYKYrRIHMZlYlqoCV-QAMRXtWt2iQKh9G9-vBbaejkiq3XjA4dXT1WuVBY3cv9PvLcBEFk/s1209/20230728_104654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF24aCyv10PRCEXIapeQcElC9ln2KNIBw1S5fSY74L2T1JGZYx4ryqNH6T3eocvG0YPawWFElUheaLEIQCT-wWapCPo7ViI2AZvp5Fb-RQ8OvB4CsSRiyyYvYKYrRIHMZlYlqoCV-QAMRXtWt2iQKh9G9-vBbaejkiq3XjA4dXT1WuVBY3cv9PvLcBEFk/s320/20230728_104654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi36HfCbOWOYtX9cHJ0cuT43F2Bu_6WOXjtJxs7cfVGhrovP8tMdnBQy-_2pit4qXZPLrClSzC4mcxebN2tUhiKoFfzPioXuCqCjD8e9GVzsr_ICfDyQcPs4-m1MAMpV_qMpREm95VbUZaMxfzDHd-6I3NVVDP19n72RuRNcrOVdrt2NLtGlky3yuPv1AM/s1209/20230728_105032.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi36HfCbOWOYtX9cHJ0cuT43F2Bu_6WOXjtJxs7cfVGhrovP8tMdnBQy-_2pit4qXZPLrClSzC4mcxebN2tUhiKoFfzPioXuCqCjD8e9GVzsr_ICfDyQcPs4-m1MAMpV_qMpREm95VbUZaMxfzDHd-6I3NVVDP19n72RuRNcrOVdrt2NLtGlky3yuPv1AM/s320/20230728_105032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCo7dTSUzgZMgXumTDPn6AmL3nRVDb4hJym54QTMQJkE1JoDKg_HMOlx19gsu7XNDSnpnNRNQMH8ru1doZdRWAy4fyvpeYqr2qXov2IAkB2a8tcNZJF5ofxEl7VMPhIeMMOrrL6Jbhnwguzmh80pARllPhrq2Wh-0GJYl0Qd-AhGR_69y52VREPLLdYG4/s1209/20230728_110109.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCo7dTSUzgZMgXumTDPn6AmL3nRVDb4hJym54QTMQJkE1JoDKg_HMOlx19gsu7XNDSnpnNRNQMH8ru1doZdRWAy4fyvpeYqr2qXov2IAkB2a8tcNZJF5ofxEl7VMPhIeMMOrrL6Jbhnwguzmh80pARllPhrq2Wh-0GJYl0Qd-AhGR_69y52VREPLLdYG4/s320/20230728_110109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29Lu12ICk2FRn9ZYXIDc-eFpJ0c0ZawfMKnhSa_Zf_2nX5c6owcIoiGxvgW3TpSI-bFn4AyElbgDwBjUATB0jTb8W41mZQRwIGwDEC62HUKEaVmhZ80qZ8J9DQIwWugZYlDzi9kc3j1B6ts3Zg-NmOz8aF90Y0oXyhFw5xar5HdpeDhsfzwpfUdbqoCo/s1209/20230728_112611.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29Lu12ICk2FRn9ZYXIDc-eFpJ0c0ZawfMKnhSa_Zf_2nX5c6owcIoiGxvgW3TpSI-bFn4AyElbgDwBjUATB0jTb8W41mZQRwIGwDEC62HUKEaVmhZ80qZ8J9DQIwWugZYlDzi9kc3j1B6ts3Zg-NmOz8aF90Y0oXyhFw5xar5HdpeDhsfzwpfUdbqoCo/s320/20230728_112611.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo e la strada diventa più mansueta e pianeggiante. Corre drittissima per ampi tratti, e ricorda un po' i paesaggi del viaggio negli States. Intorno a noi, sullo sfondo, alture, che cingono coltivazioni di mais, agave, cactus per la cocciniglia e pratoni a pascolo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHS9FqAEZHeUilBoCL_8oNugSDasTZCwqUqo8RWVFcl38jpp4y-Sq-jvFmyCo7anhg6Mars9MymfFo4NfQ34WH_Jxh5jy7WraZ9MfVdD4yAu7-6A1Wj7m2Z5r47VdGEhBQSHUWVs_30NBCjcqPOQJNhmv3IzZpbLGOpufWNrkaLFhdFzYVteyF8q6daI/s1209/20230728_115826.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHS9FqAEZHeUilBoCL_8oNugSDasTZCwqUqo8RWVFcl38jpp4y-Sq-jvFmyCo7anhg6Mars9MymfFo4NfQ34WH_Jxh5jy7WraZ9MfVdD4yAu7-6A1Wj7m2Z5r47VdGEhBQSHUWVs_30NBCjcqPOQJNhmv3IzZpbLGOpufWNrkaLFhdFzYVteyF8q6daI/s320/20230728_115826.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIv-gQYnrFFTj6VrXXn8x2CGxBudZfycpTdqOeLP6pbe6nl0OlycSV8y3KWS-hm1uKz3zDbZib0Fldd1Q4zo1vd3AMFOGNbtfq63ZxD8t1XpHbQpIjRzUBgpOX7htRwoC0aZ262rqOzFpvQPP46eb3dodThtecWgt3f84UvSMgei01RAUtAhHFSY5w1MU/s1209/20230728_120522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIv-gQYnrFFTj6VrXXn8x2CGxBudZfycpTdqOeLP6pbe6nl0OlycSV8y3KWS-hm1uKz3zDbZib0Fldd1Q4zo1vd3AMFOGNbtfq63ZxD8t1XpHbQpIjRzUBgpOX7htRwoC0aZ262rqOzFpvQPP46eb3dodThtecWgt3f84UvSMgei01RAUtAhHFSY5w1MU/s320/20230728_120522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJxcuqen-ux4tS2dbzujGHYuyV8qYmth2UAWs3BnaV4HG_ejZRgWOfUIp6cEMnAUIzSOUFubY-EBkMSwSgAvcJA6xk-oeKbah3v_bkNUj4G6fmsDpQTO1JPtwLAaSLKlyIPoFFnKboCIlTNn97ackUgpELXxYfTSmaFp3mHhoIqNEkQGIbk5nHh732xA/s1209/20230728_121019.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJxcuqen-ux4tS2dbzujGHYuyV8qYmth2UAWs3BnaV4HG_ejZRgWOfUIp6cEMnAUIzSOUFubY-EBkMSwSgAvcJA6xk-oeKbah3v_bkNUj4G6fmsDpQTO1JPtwLAaSLKlyIPoFFnKboCIlTNn97ackUgpELXxYfTSmaFp3mHhoIqNEkQGIbk5nHh732xA/s320/20230728_121019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbVwO7LZF3vZDbOh_-oGm4HvqZbCi770lew30Lx8iuMtWaNFZ6dw1gmdohxEcsasddNf4mhmlQLMCj0-CGgzxXplV6r2LHvtYGsflx4Y-0K6dg5Ys8_XVKCl7ZDE1x4CxxEGBU3ermn5ZI7ceVSALjmq5Z7qFEzjOsTUm_7-1pNVxwC3XYFVZp-b8HVz4/s320/20230728_123745.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Questi orizzonti nuovi e il dislivello ridotto ormai quasi a zero ci ridanno forza, e continuiamo a pedalare a un passo che non si vedeva da giorni. Arriviamo, quasi senza rendercene conto, a Zimatlàn, che dà nome alle valle e fu fondata da zapotechi in fuga dalle persecuzioni dei conquistadores. Qui si svolge un vivace mercato e l'artigianato prospera, soprattutto nelle arti tessile e ceramica. Vicino si trova San Bartolo Coyotepec, capitale del barro negro, la ceramica nera e lucida, polita con pietre di quarzo, che viene venduta in tutto lo stato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjozeE2NiUfiIcmN8uKWYUiuHeR_3v3qmtPeBmVzlY7gxbSLGqjn8SANDcrvGUgTVkfCDWJkV6cmgO_XIh9jA86R_PwPmdbEp06DHKSe89BffuIrTU0i05fTWgtHEnya9r9SEjgrqhB1FmZXOSnX3O7OfctF1cIsrMCgkQxcSfiVzswxMAi5SYk8zjpEw/s1209/20230728_125955.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjozeE2NiUfiIcmN8uKWYUiuHeR_3v3qmtPeBmVzlY7gxbSLGqjn8SANDcrvGUgTVkfCDWJkV6cmgO_XIh9jA86R_PwPmdbEp06DHKSe89BffuIrTU0i05fTWgtHEnya9r9SEjgrqhB1FmZXOSnX3O7OfctF1cIsrMCgkQxcSfiVzswxMAi5SYk8zjpEw/s320/20230728_125955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5EcOcoXLnaBh5cOyWkSnRAcPOSzbTOCbVzllMQtIerx01n7tn28T6EhCAbOVyAKrJGRhWKY1qbHF7fEwHOpUsPp3Mu3nBPNXyVSZZYCsralBeLXr_n27jW7IcJrRGC4dwvLKYQM5pGaieGjRf16-yL5fpIqGrlfcDfal2pW6GU6aloy5u5YniGqLGag/s1209/20230728_133337.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5EcOcoXLnaBh5cOyWkSnRAcPOSzbTOCbVzllMQtIerx01n7tn28T6EhCAbOVyAKrJGRhWKY1qbHF7fEwHOpUsPp3Mu3nBPNXyVSZZYCsralBeLXr_n27jW7IcJrRGC4dwvLKYQM5pGaieGjRf16-yL5fpIqGrlfcDfal2pW6GU6aloy5u5YniGqLGag/s320/20230728_133337.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHFRinS29QCjx8q6elXgE8qOu1bkJQofCo92i_GNQJcI2q9a0gjmid645qKOBR6aAWbQ7ldtcVnFeLAFJVw2cQ68qTBAWbi9gDwoaR6A-g83bFuW0DLMB9k1zNRCSvV0TaeT-kn8xwoWH-FmIQe6wKonzhU8sn2_5JNA4BnV1HJ-p13qdqYbpBn5HDrUw/s1209/20230728_133440.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHFRinS29QCjx8q6elXgE8qOu1bkJQofCo92i_GNQJcI2q9a0gjmid645qKOBR6aAWbQ7ldtcVnFeLAFJVw2cQ68qTBAWbi9gDwoaR6A-g83bFuW0DLMB9k1zNRCSvV0TaeT-kn8xwoWH-FmIQe6wKonzhU8sn2_5JNA4BnV1HJ-p13qdqYbpBn5HDrUw/s320/20230728_133440.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IJm6HEYlboXhwS5GSbRq66iISCEBuyPS81dQilRwJ762mf66-NU1M64udA0y3i9nM-k2JL-Nh9mMaWELhKEvzyBrCB1_GGuwFJVZYRi2AGBwpio704Ttlht-GH3MroVZPMMZNJnD3e-AX_UZjM6znDWLMaz1IMGkkKSdc-lQNfFgYXZSSEafq8gGtUE/s1209/20230728_133617.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IJm6HEYlboXhwS5GSbRq66iISCEBuyPS81dQilRwJ762mf66-NU1M64udA0y3i9nM-k2JL-Nh9mMaWELhKEvzyBrCB1_GGuwFJVZYRi2AGBwpio704Ttlht-GH3MroVZPMMZNJnD3e-AX_UZjM6znDWLMaz1IMGkkKSdc-lQNfFgYXZSSEafq8gGtUE/s320/20230728_133617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci lasciamo trasportare dal flusso umano e di mercanzie in centro al paese, ma poi dobbiamo tornare indietro e imboccare la strada più breve per la capitale.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Lasciamo la statale e proseguiamo su una via secondaria, tutta buche e cumuli di sabbia, che, attraverso le campagne, conduce a Zaachila, città in parte mixteca e in parte zapoteca nota per il suo mercato e le bancarelle gastronomiche. E' un caotico insieme di galline starnazzanti, mototaxi strombazzanti, sciure in abiti tradizionali che spettegolanti e cani che inseguono le auto ma non noi. Fu pure capitale zapoteca, dal 1400 alla conquista spagnola, dopo la caduta di Monte Alban. Infatti c'è un microscopico sito archeologico con due tumuli visitabili. Per questa volta, passiamo. Facciamo una breve sosta e ripartiamo mentre, davanti a noi, si preannuncia un temporale apocalittico. Si alza il vento, il cielo diventa nero e viola, colonne d'acqua offuscano l'orizzonte vicino. Saltiamo anche la deviazione per Cuilpan, dove si trova un ex monastero domenicano senza il tetto, iniziato nel 1560 mai finito per questioni finanziarie. Qui si trova anche la chiesa che custodisce la tomba della figlia dell'ultimo re zapoteco di Zaachila, nel cui chiostro fu fucilato l'eroe dell'indipendenza Vicente Guerrero, nel 1831. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqsQQkJxFcvr0ZP7iwXYB_CqIhwohDyKfRElZYmxnCYaV_ZL40TLkN2Ix-9k9tfSbkelL1m_bbj1ve9zWlc5qAD2rK74ih5rDCYyOxwPqbu9ozT5Kpc2vGqfHQmxlBGbD7nHLPO6U75f5WlpPdkz2DyqGBQ8uMiin5_l1iX7PX9HpIS3kPM9o_aXdbdhg/s1209/20230728_135808.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqsQQkJxFcvr0ZP7iwXYB_CqIhwohDyKfRElZYmxnCYaV_ZL40TLkN2Ix-9k9tfSbkelL1m_bbj1ve9zWlc5qAD2rK74ih5rDCYyOxwPqbu9ozT5Kpc2vGqfHQmxlBGbD7nHLPO6U75f5WlpPdkz2DyqGBQ8uMiin5_l1iX7PX9HpIS3kPM9o_aXdbdhg/s320/20230728_135808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWV0Z_jUS6LDmnYgPSmBarD0s5wbaS0rfbXPstbez0a4Zd5ZSpJVsdINSDrmXjiA8Q9UiCNXIlGsMrdXT8jSdHqDZ9V3IyRFFS2Pe-pKr7npiZIpfEX1aCl9MXV302y20E0xGugmJGaiZLxrrDZNxldvTHcpLCTJl5mNqwyjYDDlLyJ58LBefQbKcWsY/s1209/20230728_141838.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWV0Z_jUS6LDmnYgPSmBarD0s5wbaS0rfbXPstbez0a4Zd5ZSpJVsdINSDrmXjiA8Q9UiCNXIlGsMrdXT8jSdHqDZ9V3IyRFFS2Pe-pKr7npiZIpfEX1aCl9MXV302y20E0xGugmJGaiZLxrrDZNxldvTHcpLCTJl5mNqwyjYDDlLyJ58LBefQbKcWsY/s320/20230728_141838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiViYSxv71Oqui2kd7k9KxSFdFBUqu6SZSZdL3q0UAL_TppiGL5PRS-d9WgMMw0ABpgye9jcCTaR_d67tQ27KkA3Q1L1H5B3xIJH8uJABWvMAJWyA3ier_G0nQ65h-Se2L8XL_OTcvKRl6oqj1CTcwE8L-uBfdJHLAzM0WZAE0QSmiXhY0T9wf8WsXNwcM/s1209/20230728_144912.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiViYSxv71Oqui2kd7k9KxSFdFBUqu6SZSZdL3q0UAL_TppiGL5PRS-d9WgMMw0ABpgye9jcCTaR_d67tQ27KkA3Q1L1H5B3xIJH8uJABWvMAJWyA3ier_G0nQ65h-Se2L8XL_OTcvKRl6oqj1CTcwE8L-uBfdJHLAzM0WZAE0QSmiXhY0T9wf8WsXNwcM/s320/20230728_144912.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ultimo strappo, in corsa contro il temporale che incombe. Eccoci in periferia di Oaxaca, e, dopo strade sempre più trafficate, finalmente in centro, dove abbiamo prenotato una stanza all'Hotel Jimenez (che si rivelerà scelta azzeccatissima). Ci carichiamo bici e bagagli in spalla e raggiungiamo la nostra tana al terzo piano, tra festoni e bandierine colorate.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSwLxpj9OCnT4v1_n4ETy0PbQ7kxctAV4mIDDhL242Lw_rt5Qe9hOsRvN79tecztNzJLbBKqqPsvcI16nz_bB-gX9e1tMh1_F1WtZtmgC8cBpNu6FZa6iuWdCU7tU5BPdifcJZpwxfYvnersMm1lEsC1gbo9FkeyhrLCZ6Y3dWbeN-ij5zVB4bcYgy8M/s979/20230728_154925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYSwLxpj9OCnT4v1_n4ETy0PbQ7kxctAV4mIDDhL242Lw_rt5Qe9hOsRvN79tecztNzJLbBKqqPsvcI16nz_bB-gX9e1tMh1_F1WtZtmgC8cBpNu6FZa6iuWdCU7tU5BPdifcJZpwxfYvnersMm1lEsC1gbo9FkeyhrLCZ6Y3dWbeN-ij5zVB4bcYgy8M/s320/20230728_154925.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigISdHwDFFoaG-Hqzi_X-QHMJkIc32Zq5Vgqbb-3tujGk5zoNR7tPdCOrrsEZD8Ogy1EEAQfV8vnRrP35-H3FjZe-NEs9C0hHyIZpWw0GQYi6fLyuJceo8OuU-3gWLMPj3r45jsus3B5t4ss_W_TS5m_sIlDXoosJILMz2Pn_oD6viJpO1iKs_1_hN3Ds/s1209/20230728_165408.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigISdHwDFFoaG-Hqzi_X-QHMJkIc32Zq5Vgqbb-3tujGk5zoNR7tPdCOrrsEZD8Ogy1EEAQfV8vnRrP35-H3FjZe-NEs9C0hHyIZpWw0GQYi6fLyuJceo8OuU-3gWLMPj3r45jsus3B5t4ss_W_TS5m_sIlDXoosJILMz2Pn_oD6viJpO1iKs_1_hN3Ds/s320/20230728_165408.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYooUSVHHiwdSaznKjO7eaPB7sTHWeZdfLYEG7Pg_vnVaSrPGeJkDUyeshnNXCES3qxQw7Gpxxf4gEc01iRDZ2WFOC5gcUGj-b5DwKSnnUqAcOmEgQzgTH73MJpM2mml4fjzY88etmbxIcjGm0vMfmpelzz6yhp3naBjzjni9cthrVlipXhF4WHpoHWM/s1209/20230728_165414.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYooUSVHHiwdSaznKjO7eaPB7sTHWeZdfLYEG7Pg_vnVaSrPGeJkDUyeshnNXCES3qxQw7Gpxxf4gEc01iRDZ2WFOC5gcUGj-b5DwKSnnUqAcOmEgQzgTH73MJpM2mml4fjzY88etmbxIcjGm0vMfmpelzz6yhp3naBjzjni9cthrVlipXhF4WHpoHWM/s320/20230728_165414.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNuRB5ajJqTlQ_iB2gCIzjaiU7wI3rLawa0mkqMxhtkQpCNsQGw1Md83bpjsZ4vLJSon9JJgFwdnVdVDCou3WWs6nRmqdRsYXUed8tA1ZBZ6U7fPplvUr2wWlDcOz6tRjGhvYma5ycNFeYsEiQgFAu-EYq-PNtiMdnt4uE2F_D5My7_BlShkjZp0uAeI/s1209/20230728_165514.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNuRB5ajJqTlQ_iB2gCIzjaiU7wI3rLawa0mkqMxhtkQpCNsQGw1Md83bpjsZ4vLJSon9JJgFwdnVdVDCou3WWs6nRmqdRsYXUed8tA1ZBZ6U7fPplvUr2wWlDcOz6tRjGhvYma5ycNFeYsEiQgFAu-EYq-PNtiMdnt4uE2F_D5My7_BlShkjZp0uAeI/s320/20230728_165514.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo la doccia e un nulla di riposo, usciamo subito. Abbiamo delle incombenze logistiche da sbrigare e vogliamo risolverle il prima possibile. Step 1: lavare i vestiti, da bici e non, sordidi, unti, saponosi e puzzolenti. Il che avviene con agilità in una laundromat a una manciata di metri dall'albergo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSU2O-WuiTEkNRs1FV8wuMTgNDvtm9Ye3krXnIjQ99Z8FWM-65lqL6Hbe_kkHKSsy5be1KQxRtIU2yAkv6Jgsc-m4N3AYda_AVDzuYfetK1p2Y1VybGQPMrY_BJ1gR6WEQfXB2f8QLCsMhgBzYdDlp1lGp09zXXCY9gqoBB-yEtX_UpsCh2DQvsLG1k6Q/s1209/20230728_170553.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSU2O-WuiTEkNRs1FV8wuMTgNDvtm9Ye3krXnIjQ99Z8FWM-65lqL6Hbe_kkHKSsy5be1KQxRtIU2yAkv6Jgsc-m4N3AYda_AVDzuYfetK1p2Y1VybGQPMrY_BJ1gR6WEQfXB2f8QLCsMhgBzYdDlp1lGp09zXXCY9gqoBB-yEtX_UpsCh2DQvsLG1k6Q/s320/20230728_170553.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Step 2: cortare il pelo di volpe. I miei capelli sono un cespuglio, un ciuffo d'ananas, e, mentre aspettiamo il ciclo della lavatrice, entro nella prima peluqueria che trovo e mi faccio sistemare la cabeza da una signora che ci chiede vita morte e miracoli, mentre, con un occhio, segue una telenovela becera tutta tradimenti e piazzate di cornuti. Fa tutto a mano, senza macchinetta, e alla fine mi spolvera a più riprese di borotalco con un pennellaccio. Che goduria profumare ed essere tornati in ordine, presentabili e con minor rischio di pidocchi e altri parassiti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-GxrXJlonvObtskzidfKYwszFno8iEn5PwurooU7ZwprIV5Wo9kDfP2usnAn_SjrsWj4hi9JTKnleC90Tps1JmaGMDmV2ALWO-KM_FCCdGOzQjrMHsOXVLcdN_YIjLGQGLFX4N8HLzAcaV88Mfwh-3bJdRyeGhNHRxZ9bmG-7cb-LmnUCFana1b2jm4/s1209/20230728_171036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-GxrXJlonvObtskzidfKYwszFno8iEn5PwurooU7ZwprIV5Wo9kDfP2usnAn_SjrsWj4hi9JTKnleC90Tps1JmaGMDmV2ALWO-KM_FCCdGOzQjrMHsOXVLcdN_YIjLGQGLFX4N8HLzAcaV88Mfwh-3bJdRyeGhNHRxZ9bmG-7cb-LmnUCFana1b2jm4/s320/20230728_171036.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNRY1mM_xijxnqB7XLA2fxuZtPz9eusGBjjisAsyFgMYL8-_KCnDExFBrhVHWPy37l7aGWxG7ZgfcpO-66lIIGuO5bP07LHgcyX0s4Fr3IgdZ2D9gqr2qQNGuB6d5wD7SuI0ziSbFmII08SmHaWISO25k1zwFoBysF3_Xh7vtYtAoN0Z-MVJcO9UHA9xE/s989/20230728_185842.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNRY1mM_xijxnqB7XLA2fxuZtPz9eusGBjjisAsyFgMYL8-_KCnDExFBrhVHWPy37l7aGWxG7ZgfcpO-66lIIGuO5bP07LHgcyX0s4Fr3IgdZ2D9gqr2qQNGuB6d5wD7SuI0ziSbFmII08SmHaWISO25k1zwFoBysF3_Xh7vtYtAoN0Z-MVJcO9UHA9xE/s320/20230728_185842.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div><br /></div><div>Step 3: sistemare il mio freno posteriore. Le pastiglie non sono ancora consumate del tutto, ma bisogna regolare il filo che ha preso troppo gioco. Ci sono ben due negozi, uno accanto all'altro. Lasciamo da parte il fighetto Bicimundo e ci rivolgiamo ai meccanici di Pedro Martinez. Questo ex olimpionico messicano ha aperto un negozio di bici e riparazioni ma offre anche gite di giornata in Mtb in tutti i dintorni di Oaxaca, con tanto di trasporto, noleggio e guida. La sua squadra è composta da ragazzi super in gamba e capaci di risolvere ogni problema in breve. Alla cassa sta la padrona, armata di racchetta elettrificata per incenerire le mosche, che chiama i chicos quando ci sono i clienti e poi prende il denaro. Mi sistemano il freno in un attimo. Gigi si fa lavare e ingrassare la catena (che fighetto!), e, nel tempo dell'asciugatura panni, abbiamo sbrigato anche questa pratica.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLA3F-qzhy-af-rShKNl4aQ-0Bs4-gnHv7l8NwEZE9taiycZcL-SU_gd6vdmb1NiGY_BUlHUyiwUHvDpw3Ko6PRjPJdEZ4ShCTem9h4ChAu9hL5Fry0PXv_J4d-t9VQfvWlevo765-veYF9XXwSd2tdLQjdDtypzsOHpIa4YOqv1GJfqSuOTvq_TijXU8/s1209/20230728_173708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLA3F-qzhy-af-rShKNl4aQ-0Bs4-gnHv7l8NwEZE9taiycZcL-SU_gd6vdmb1NiGY_BUlHUyiwUHvDpw3Ko6PRjPJdEZ4ShCTem9h4ChAu9hL5Fry0PXv_J4d-t9VQfvWlevo765-veYF9XXwSd2tdLQjdDtypzsOHpIa4YOqv1GJfqSuOTvq_TijXU8/s320/20230728_173708.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1GPIoAqEot-qs0Q2Q07Cd9mpkryrxBEWBSooDdOtG8d-tELEZr8OPmxgxhwCjY7NN1Y0tztUoLpIQkKvBFvTGvP5chOB-LqQAcm383UCJ1oMwVoEmV8dET7Fv-rvOvhzYxtoRkffHNWctVkEqaMToHXoE28ykJEw6WiCBo6lcy6JBjDk8pe7yIDOGoo/s1209/20230728_174859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1GPIoAqEot-qs0Q2Q07Cd9mpkryrxBEWBSooDdOtG8d-tELEZr8OPmxgxhwCjY7NN1Y0tztUoLpIQkKvBFvTGvP5chOB-LqQAcm383UCJ1oMwVoEmV8dET7Fv-rvOvhzYxtoRkffHNWctVkEqaMToHXoE28ykJEw6WiCBo6lcy6JBjDk8pe7yIDOGoo/s320/20230728_174859.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Cotti ma soddisfatti, ci concediamo una ricca cena in un ristorante nei dintorni dell'hotel, con prezzi pop e offerta di piatti regionali freschi. Andiamo di guacamole con totopos para compartir, polletto con mole per Gigi e verdure in crema di quesillo (formaggio tipico di qui) per me.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZMYB4PJANs-HDNc_ixJibPzrbpYi5XnaNwovlHwRPTt8hB8jF93EcErlwO0ohaQIiYQV7I3V7aFkASJ7zelZAa0z8D2eWtmM8aXz2JcTeaFaBhxXt-9-NKAZgjusk65l4bHrbPW0QHI-D24cb_w6rCmYBrapzafbj1BlYjEC_WenuxXB8kkSASxSGA4/s1209/20230728_200431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZMYB4PJANs-HDNc_ixJibPzrbpYi5XnaNwovlHwRPTt8hB8jF93EcErlwO0ohaQIiYQV7I3V7aFkASJ7zelZAa0z8D2eWtmM8aXz2JcTeaFaBhxXt-9-NKAZgjusk65l4bHrbPW0QHI-D24cb_w6rCmYBrapzafbj1BlYjEC_WenuxXB8kkSASxSGA4/s320/20230728_200431.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQS7lIUEDwbx0aqlEbGnlNvKZ4I-qC-OtH-ksDbq_I61oUnWJt_2RR9mCZLGvb8si8otiiVU0H2ZqK10jRXGhb1gnBjD_-NZ7OyBJKr-wwU4JAYrxS08yREqV9XaTazdXPCxixjGbWSpQ0AUicfVSdP3ihlrj0BO7UYldXSWmfLDjI2LanfDev1M9ZG4/s1209/20230728_200834.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQS7lIUEDwbx0aqlEbGnlNvKZ4I-qC-OtH-ksDbq_I61oUnWJt_2RR9mCZLGvb8si8otiiVU0H2ZqK10jRXGhb1gnBjD_-NZ7OyBJKr-wwU4JAYrxS08yREqV9XaTazdXPCxixjGbWSpQ0AUicfVSdP3ihlrj0BO7UYldXSWmfLDjI2LanfDev1M9ZG4/s320/20230728_200834.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41AKrzBxNMKyV5pVlAdOgituGuDgRYQLyzjgGpT6ztzNFqwVLiWdkEJ242uvLOwyT-3wV29gq4kcR4K-oayhkofxK-yhHvoSZaxSIwK-AL4_MfyGBtywcCXY9qptoiw8_a5VDgs9y8TXbsaAiMa2JoeXNI0pHc2eo1gscTbkLD-PIATCR1P2pIl1Qs6U/s1209/20230728_200838.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41AKrzBxNMKyV5pVlAdOgituGuDgRYQLyzjgGpT6ztzNFqwVLiWdkEJ242uvLOwyT-3wV29gq4kcR4K-oayhkofxK-yhHvoSZaxSIwK-AL4_MfyGBtywcCXY9qptoiw8_a5VDgs9y8TXbsaAiMa2JoeXNI0pHc2eo1gscTbkLD-PIATCR1P2pIl1Qs6U/s320/20230728_200838.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>A panza piena ci prende una piomba tale che torniamo subito in camera e ci addormentiamo quasi immediatamente, senza nemmeno il quotidiano rito dello scaricare le foto sul pc e scrivere la tappa. Ma, come recita il Qoelet, c'è un tempo per ogni cosa. E questo è il tempo per riposare.<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>29/7</div><div>Oaxaca</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di approfondire la storia e le impressioni ricavate da questa giornata trascorsa tra vie e piazze di Oaxaca, sento l'urgenza di mettere per iscritto la sensazione che più mi è rimasta addosso a pelle viva. Si riassume in: profondità culturale e complessità. Qui ancora più che altrove ho assistito, in poche ore e in uno spazio ridotto, a una quantità spropositata, quasi ingestibile mentalmente, di manifestazioni di tradizioni e arte, artigianato e, appunto, cultura in senso lato. Tra edifici coloniali e chiese barocche, ad ogni angolo di piazza qualcuno suona, o canta, o balla, lasciando ampio spazio al folklore. Nei numerosissimi mercati, coperti e non, gli artigiani sono intenti a tessere, ricamare, dipingere, cuocere, infilare perline, modellare il metallo. E quasi tutte queste conoscenze tecniche sono tramandate da secoli. Ogni pochi minuti ci si imbatte in una festa privata di proporzioni ciclopiche, con orchestra di ottoni e percussioni dal vivo, ballerini e maschere danzanti, fuochi d'artificio e persone elegantissime che brindano a mezcal. L'arte, in ogni livello e forma, pervade la città e scorre nelle sue vene, tra musei raffinatissimi e murales di protesta, collettivi di pittori, gallerie di lusso e pinacoteche. La lotta degli attivisti per i diritti delle minoranze, delle donne, dei lavoratori, è continua e forte. La cultura del buon cibo e del bere bene è centrale, che si tratti di un baracchino ambulante o di un ristorante stellato. E in tutto questo, oltre alla stratificazione storica, si aggiunge la varietà locale: ogni etnia, ogni valle, ogni città ha i suoi costumi, i suoi abiti, la sua musica e le sue danze, il suo mole e le sue maschere, persino la sua lingua. E son tradizioni secolari, che hanno resistito al tempo e si sono modificate, adattate, fuse a ciò che man mano la corrente della storia ha portato. Ho avuto l'impressione fisica, tattile, di tutto questo profondo oceano di mondi compresenti durante uno spettacolo di danze tradizionali con musica live cui ho assistito nello zocalo, la piazza centrale. Osservando i passi ritmati dei ragazzi e delle ragazze, nei loro abiti coloratissimi, tutti piume e svolazzi, ho avuto i brividi. Ho pensato: "Guarda questi giovani e giovanissimi quanto ci tengono a farsi testimoni della loro identità, quanta importanza danno a una tradizione che si rinnova ma costituisce il filo rosso che li lega ai loro antenati, fisicamente identici nel volto e nello sguardo fiero. Guarda come sanno tenere vivo il passato, mentre abitano compiutamente il presente (perchè il femminismo, i diritti della comunità LGBTQ+, la lotta alle discriminazioni sono una realtà, qui). C'è tanta forza in tutto questo. E' una forma positiva di resistenza a quella globalizzazione che sfocia in appiattimento". Nutro grandissimo rispetto per loro e per tutti coloro che in questa direzione si muovono, che sia dipingendo, danzando o tenendo un banchetto che chiede giustizia per i femminicidi o le vittime nei narcos collusi con le forze dell'ordine e il governo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Questa è la premessa generale.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ora torniamo a stamattina, quando ci siamo alzati tardi e abbiamo fatto colazione in hotel (è inclusa nella cifra già modica!) con estrema calma, godendo degli scorci sulla città dal terrazzo. Caffè, empanadas al formaggio con salsa di fagioli, macedonia e pancake con miele e panna. Un attimo di meritato paradiso dei sensi!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvUL-AU9z-5Hm4mycXPbvlgDc0xLwqVcUi852XAzOSikQwRxZIGH1tZbESy4wNG-1L8XETt3DinV0oMOMYm07sXemqRd9PNy8swrVCUPbo0yN9JVJV6U9AL09g8GP7rySPwKyJXxFIHqfyg4a1KSkQS_Y8YUocuE7MkpNFEhv9MkiDQ_48LeBX4rkcW8s/s1209/20230729_084729.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvUL-AU9z-5Hm4mycXPbvlgDc0xLwqVcUi852XAzOSikQwRxZIGH1tZbESy4wNG-1L8XETt3DinV0oMOMYm07sXemqRd9PNy8swrVCUPbo0yN9JVJV6U9AL09g8GP7rySPwKyJXxFIHqfyg4a1KSkQS_Y8YUocuE7MkpNFEhv9MkiDQ_48LeBX4rkcW8s/s320/20230729_084729.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3swcMzu3uT8GKJ9HTcfHDFsVE003VlYdTUbILMu-zCh1l4rnkc_o7sfSnwDDb9zA1jc2vzKPo2QCodyFcv07-c4DwLOIFRZ8rRAsIp4jTUNrYYYA3nYTdDVRRg-lBqrg1LnqHJN7Om_BlOiktceAJEnBkT0h8R_8oJZOwUnJdeW0ewb5BpuFNGEqiDuA/s1209/20230729_090640.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3swcMzu3uT8GKJ9HTcfHDFsVE003VlYdTUbILMu-zCh1l4rnkc_o7sfSnwDDb9zA1jc2vzKPo2QCodyFcv07-c4DwLOIFRZ8rRAsIp4jTUNrYYYA3nYTdDVRRg-lBqrg1LnqHJN7Om_BlOiktceAJEnBkT0h8R_8oJZOwUnJdeW0ewb5BpuFNGEqiDuA/s320/20230729_090640.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzZLrouWVVqFAWOo3ZGfNkWl34hw_s_25fluBgF-j27s6UETzBpOLdvPxHJUqtMi0f-4nH_F9lBHLRtatYKHC0mjSpoY_XpBQoaB5fCXuf-_vaPMduxX5HEqzGIawRLaxBDr5DUYMqr88R8XKU8b59mfnN7Q1-eqpU6uUD5YRVvi05rYRBKkrYALx2ds/s1209/20230729_090650.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzZLrouWVVqFAWOo3ZGfNkWl34hw_s_25fluBgF-j27s6UETzBpOLdvPxHJUqtMi0f-4nH_F9lBHLRtatYKHC0mjSpoY_XpBQoaB5fCXuf-_vaPMduxX5HEqzGIawRLaxBDr5DUYMqr88R8XKU8b59mfnN7Q1-eqpU6uUD5YRVvi05rYRBKkrYALx2ds/s320/20230729_090650.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Intanto leggo che Oaxaca si chiama per intero Oaxaca de Juarez; il primo nome è azteco e significa luogo tra le piante di huaje. Il secondo è un omaggio a Benito Juarez, nativo nato non lontano da qui, eroe nella guerra contro i francesi e presidente del Messico dal 1858 al 1872.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In questa valle zapotechi e mixtechi hanno vissuto per millenni, in perenne guerra fra loro. Poi, nel Quattrrocento, sono arrivati gli aztechi, che hanno sottomesso alcuni centri di primaria importanza, per poi essere a loro volta sconfitti dopo breve tempo dagli spagnoli, nel 1521. Questi imposero la pace tra zapotechi e mixtechi, che ancora se le stavano dando, e iniziò il processo di evangelizzazione forzata. Gli spagnoli arrivarono qui insieme a 400 aztechi perchè Moctezuma II aveva detto a Cortes che l'oro veniva da qui ("Sì sì andate là a rompere las pelotas, almeno vi sciacquate da qui e ci lasciate in pace").</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Poi chi si era stabilito nel nuovo centro era un po' troppo indipendente e autonomo per i gusti di Cortes, perchè i coloni avevano ottenuto dal re il possesso delle terre; lui allora si fece nominare marchese della valle di Oaxaca, sfollò i villaggi circostanti e li rimpiazzò con i suoi fedeli, sempre pronti a opporsi alla ribelle Antequera (Oaxaca).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Di storia più recente ci sarebbe molto da dire, ma mi limito a tre fatti: Benito Juarez e Porfirio Diaz sono oaxaqueni.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Avanti veloce fino al 2006, i fatti di Oaxaca. Gli insegnanti danno il via a proteste per chiedere un aumento salariale, essendo cresciuto a dismisura il costo della vita. Le richieste non vengono ascoltate, non si apre un tavolo di lavoro, il sindacato degli insegnanti viene sciolto. Riprendono le manifestazioni. La polizia federale preventiva interviene con violenza, causando feriti e tre morti (tra cui un giornalista americano). La tensione cresce ulteriormente, il presidente invia ulteriori forze armate che agiscono con ferocia, causando altri feriti e morti, oltre ai numerosi arresti. Cercano di chiudere l'università, cuore pulsante della protesta, con la sua radio. Non riescono. Si apre un tavolo di discussione. Gli insegnanti ottengono un aumento a patto che tornino subito a lavorare. Così accade, ma i morti restan morti, e chi è finito in carcere è ancora lì in cella.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Fatta questa carrellata di eventi storici, scendiamo in strada, finalmente, per esplorare la città.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2opvMzKaf8wFjpSmlyPRS4fwy2pLGXKUfnoHtsrUkg948AMYjZgP4Kij-uBoRYuVBfTg-jvknpAscWzT4DVoqckQUmKr27XwzNipgtEqpq39UMhlB5AbTWrsPTbIIRYBxnC6tICk_rZH1XTaTv8VLq3V4m63ErOVh5ABM0pm7QJHBINKuSYpBKh3DtI0/s1209/20230729_103949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2opvMzKaf8wFjpSmlyPRS4fwy2pLGXKUfnoHtsrUkg948AMYjZgP4Kij-uBoRYuVBfTg-jvknpAscWzT4DVoqckQUmKr27XwzNipgtEqpq39UMhlB5AbTWrsPTbIIRYBxnC6tICk_rZH1XTaTv8VLq3V4m63ErOVh5ABM0pm7QJHBINKuSYpBKh3DtI0/s320/20230729_103949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4g95bGQpvWXqqdrpZ8JDir9Cjfgawk4xY73qQksL-5l14jDhX1goUD8BfL1Qioynj_aejDYg6rEibzPHPMx_Y5Vq76G70vG1VVsvQvJUHU18jCOBi8CN1JtoEufba47XtFBrexNjb8K5QqdpvrM-Z96-oYrNgTXjbTaZiOVABoJw6ei20ZdL5H2ctHRU/s1209/20230729_104301.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4g95bGQpvWXqqdrpZ8JDir9Cjfgawk4xY73qQksL-5l14jDhX1goUD8BfL1Qioynj_aejDYg6rEibzPHPMx_Y5Vq76G70vG1VVsvQvJUHU18jCOBi8CN1JtoEufba47XtFBrexNjb8K5QqdpvrM-Z96-oYrNgTXjbTaZiOVABoJw6ei20ZdL5H2ctHRU/s320/20230729_104301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9tEmUAOyqiqS5w-PPxIcqOep7zlXCBKv--k2FAOmYCbsbXfEL7Cd8KNN1a20qSi1B9FNHlPdEcAKlxzcMnejzgFINgQy3eYGuUoIWH2zmkaZuwFNGZ1BnkFOWAoMdnLXWdtN19HNKz5YmLOdwUHlQs6oiXuh08JR1eVD4yS1i8sw6767qpM2Y_Gncb6s/s1209/20230729_104401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9tEmUAOyqiqS5w-PPxIcqOep7zlXCBKv--k2FAOmYCbsbXfEL7Cd8KNN1a20qSi1B9FNHlPdEcAKlxzcMnejzgFINgQy3eYGuUoIWH2zmkaZuwFNGZ1BnkFOWAoMdnLXWdtN19HNKz5YmLOdwUHlQs6oiXuh08JR1eVD4yS1i8sw6767qpM2Y_Gncb6s/s320/20230729_104401.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tutte le vie del centro sono addobbate e coloratissime, tanto più che è in corso ancora la festa della città (che dura un mese!), la Guelaguetza. In quest'occasione tutte le sette regioni dello stato mandano delegazioni di musicisti, ballerini, giovani che si affrontano in concorsi di bellezza e rappresentanti delle varie culture che sfilano con gli abiti tradizionali. Siamo arrivati nel momento giusto!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La nostra visita parte dalla piazza centrale, lo zocalo, che, con tutto il quartiere, è stato dichiarato patrimonio UNESCO.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci accoglie l'austera chiesa della Compagnia di Gesù, dove, nel cortile, è in corso una kermesse di cucina regionale tra sciure che spadellano e uomini che portano tavoli e sedie.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgSjqoMNJZslC32ApbqPQNC68cuL9aBYAsUwr0Vjhe2733dG9BF5Ft5awaa52kfM7iIrdmHJrRbHbVgruJeuvp4OxeGy5sXcj2PijP31wPtktcOGDpfRmoBX6FDXUseBv4QSFxPGIHaB1yF55N8Sf0iB6BoGgZvcvdA0lj6cKXPJkxkI_Xl2SoF8RKr4/s1209/20230729_104617.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgSjqoMNJZslC32ApbqPQNC68cuL9aBYAsUwr0Vjhe2733dG9BF5Ft5awaa52kfM7iIrdmHJrRbHbVgruJeuvp4OxeGy5sXcj2PijP31wPtktcOGDpfRmoBX6FDXUseBv4QSFxPGIHaB1yF55N8Sf0iB6BoGgZvcvdA0lj6cKXPJkxkI_Xl2SoF8RKr4/s320/20230729_104617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTtJu9TUc1yJNv5PzFMA8E9yML7SNzxX2c4hxaTpk2zNXVKWiGPhhZyscAAvUGmYmQjOvjZ_lQB67lqDiKYz5eJ4cmxhoBm_6o0og_Piq2AZUXnkEp4VfLwG_2I_GqjRRNCt66dhR9WbTmXPgOeTDKbVAtqTc2mOkwhE1nQbUEevDRUA6Qgfmsn2lKSMY/s1209/20230729_104646.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTtJu9TUc1yJNv5PzFMA8E9yML7SNzxX2c4hxaTpk2zNXVKWiGPhhZyscAAvUGmYmQjOvjZ_lQB67lqDiKYz5eJ4cmxhoBm_6o0og_Piq2AZUXnkEp4VfLwG_2I_GqjRRNCt66dhR9WbTmXPgOeTDKbVAtqTc2mOkwhE1nQbUEevDRUA6Qgfmsn2lKSMY/s320/20230729_104646.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-4SR1TB-_WKkzHPGLi1aKnsoXNKGLUF3npcPBgG7WGWclYkjtAycek-FnBK9Mh6avF7jGmonDtkAgfcEpwwqFSc0zQr8DZAh6ltDiM1aATQjRC7p7Fachy2bvwCF2mLi5omzJcyac7U7zMz5o_wD0ILnHATw1prYuBZ3xEekQJIn_3W-BIt3QSyBWnQ/s1209/20230729_104656.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-4SR1TB-_WKkzHPGLi1aKnsoXNKGLUF3npcPBgG7WGWclYkjtAycek-FnBK9Mh6avF7jGmonDtkAgfcEpwwqFSc0zQr8DZAh6ltDiM1aATQjRC7p7Fachy2bvwCF2mLi5omzJcyac7U7zMz5o_wD0ILnHATw1prYuBZ3xEekQJIn_3W-BIt3QSyBWnQ/s320/20230729_104656.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzWMTRzTtvcxSC1_Nv_IeWk99k0UagDdKYqR6Jr2b60BDODaEe-1M0T3uuGcjrtW94NAqhJgp_Hxlen7Dlgv46_IUYToeeL1D_5eWQV8KlO3FX4R9W7FU-PQkv5Tf0yOJRMS__KooG4I2J-IknVH7LX93UKcllkWudtQ_Kkzr9FbuyMu2gd3RX4Ii8oA/s1209/20230729_104714.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzWMTRzTtvcxSC1_Nv_IeWk99k0UagDdKYqR6Jr2b60BDODaEe-1M0T3uuGcjrtW94NAqhJgp_Hxlen7Dlgv46_IUYToeeL1D_5eWQV8KlO3FX4R9W7FU-PQkv5Tf0yOJRMS__KooG4I2J-IknVH7LX93UKcllkWudtQ_Kkzr9FbuyMu2gd3RX4Ii8oA/s320/20230729_104714.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwBk-bm_bsSbndoUQ-TzMgYJoMtmKULgopILGha1TLtBawLUQT7wN7hLDGp2dhI72iZGSkrfuFCajXb3eluDIicM_qMmVz2yJH-KR7NoRNpjT1F_spK2m9mYA9d_kYzeSww4Y-LZU1OwishfE3NvnByvA770kJiFK1g53idokjBkmRCwoCc_5hHGru-c/s1209/20230729_105140.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwBk-bm_bsSbndoUQ-TzMgYJoMtmKULgopILGha1TLtBawLUQT7wN7hLDGp2dhI72iZGSkrfuFCajXb3eluDIicM_qMmVz2yJH-KR7NoRNpjT1F_spK2m9mYA9d_kYzeSww4Y-LZU1OwishfE3NvnByvA770kJiFK1g53idokjBkmRCwoCc_5hHGru-c/s320/20230729_105140.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Da qui si accede alla bella e già vivacissima piazza, ombreggiata e circondata da portici. Brulica di ambulantes, artisti di strada e venditori, lustrascarpe, gente che promuove tour, musicisti, bancarelle, e persone che semplicemente si godono una passeggiata, un caffè o un gelato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZx1LxBRMuM_ep76sSQnOdDV1VYxbZrAVLWFVUKgtMUDAxox9CV7ZjV5QDwb5XceWGjBosN6_5tcW2_cK5R_49nQs3iC_OE4KDgjRrDqBYWZlv6D0uuvbhfYf9nLnyX3gyErhTYze0X-zkljFWzRYJJrvUpJqtJ377pwwuS3bqh3jcZETF41VgdJ0nqw/s1209/20230729_105324.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZx1LxBRMuM_ep76sSQnOdDV1VYxbZrAVLWFVUKgtMUDAxox9CV7ZjV5QDwb5XceWGjBosN6_5tcW2_cK5R_49nQs3iC_OE4KDgjRrDqBYWZlv6D0uuvbhfYf9nLnyX3gyErhTYze0X-zkljFWzRYJJrvUpJqtJ377pwwuS3bqh3jcZETF41VgdJ0nqw/s320/20230729_105324.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKIMjsAVxkJFkZI2llDyypk6hey3epYCCTThCtGnTCt3R-bdZmAYX8oCuqkQjoipMAMGhD42q9L8NyqQIho3qKu2qn_xmvkacvYpWp0pQorxY57FrX_EaQ7gPthe4nWCdYNu8NflJsAZjkxZ0aLvK0-7966xSEeDRw4qXCvfXDkSXvt0GOkspr1GVGgk/s1209/20230729_105348.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKIMjsAVxkJFkZI2llDyypk6hey3epYCCTThCtGnTCt3R-bdZmAYX8oCuqkQjoipMAMGhD42q9L8NyqQIho3qKu2qn_xmvkacvYpWp0pQorxY57FrX_EaQ7gPthe4nWCdYNu8NflJsAZjkxZ0aLvK0-7966xSEeDRw4qXCvfXDkSXvt0GOkspr1GVGgk/s320/20230729_105348.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnj6Jn8ovk3nSj_QVM-KHRXCc603J5j0PizGfdlxUh9SNXsCbXZWqamucNnTpfHgcuBlnG-nxZmSlB56CwpOHIUJq7CW7WYeT5rEO9T49LMaPZtdyF8c9ouDdgTgdCnhr7stf_Z1cyjxdxrPEjQyjHRMu3Eorpzfw1z9ixqOmk3u0xnmv5FG0RMKKMPkc/s1209/20230729_105547.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnj6Jn8ovk3nSj_QVM-KHRXCc603J5j0PizGfdlxUh9SNXsCbXZWqamucNnTpfHgcuBlnG-nxZmSlB56CwpOHIUJq7CW7WYeT5rEO9T49LMaPZtdyF8c9ouDdgTgdCnhr7stf_Z1cyjxdxrPEjQyjHRMu3Eorpzfw1z9ixqOmk3u0xnmv5FG0RMKKMPkc/s320/20230729_105547.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8pvpx4cuaFz_nwmSAfl3J5C6xRbjVsJTXQwg2S70qTkI2YOVGRvf_Wdv6hypR77T76QbnPtUqUj4mBwPBAtJKcxCVfigb3lZwXu70SosDvHNieekGod33zeYmL-zsbGsOAelV6gHAJ0e19uZhypbMUijAujT31RdUrUHaGm6KB12wMyuqJR9Zlvc3KEI/s1209/20230729_105600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8pvpx4cuaFz_nwmSAfl3J5C6xRbjVsJTXQwg2S70qTkI2YOVGRvf_Wdv6hypR77T76QbnPtUqUj4mBwPBAtJKcxCVfigb3lZwXu70SosDvHNieekGod33zeYmL-zsbGsOAelV6gHAJ0e19uZhypbMUijAujT31RdUrUHaGm6KB12wMyuqJR9Zlvc3KEI/s320/20230729_105600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyemp3gU_t4_0ZJA3Rzm7O1XkKGv-_1EqkGyF3rweTlqMkysqETgi7gMboSKTz66gr0O5VyHIhiwsXyLQLuh2gP9FLZMXpFEZLEwhTjNmxQ_Vd-kqBKSkhNSfnoQhGGjOgxqECxswoZwSgURxprkqlVRLDOTqrn9edZjemi7dqQV_gpjFPUPK3s_0Xs0Q/s1209/20230729_105616.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyemp3gU_t4_0ZJA3Rzm7O1XkKGv-_1EqkGyF3rweTlqMkysqETgi7gMboSKTz66gr0O5VyHIhiwsXyLQLuh2gP9FLZMXpFEZLEwhTjNmxQ_Vd-kqBKSkhNSfnoQhGGjOgxqECxswoZwSgURxprkqlVRLDOTqrn9edZjemi7dqQV_gpjFPUPK3s_0Xs0Q/s320/20230729_105616.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiral4faHMu6N0oHLFvUFppVNttu8ZTJb514-qQ_Mu7Bxy4jQaYvp86QG3p2O6fTcT_gl9M2Hl36J6ANOdpVtaQ9PrQlVL0j0aHjqhMh14_spSrlFQDFZxZDNeXcyWE7OTU3lhbSkhs4HvsUPc3VXQmqIsBO5EXn3YjWLxj7S0ALcieOiNeVXFSVhxA9tM/s1209/20230729_105635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiral4faHMu6N0oHLFvUFppVNttu8ZTJb514-qQ_Mu7Bxy4jQaYvp86QG3p2O6fTcT_gl9M2Hl36J6ANOdpVtaQ9PrQlVL0j0aHjqhMh14_spSrlFQDFZxZDNeXcyWE7OTU3lhbSkhs4HvsUPc3VXQmqIsBO5EXn3YjWLxj7S0ALcieOiNeVXFSVhxA9tM/s320/20230729_105635.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sotto ai portici del palazzo del governo, meraviglia ottocentesca di archi e murales, c'è una mostra fotografica che ritrae alcune scene del folklore delle varie etnie dello stato. Sono di una bellezza indescrivibile!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh93dZiZg7Vxgrhy40bCfroM0fTmQA964rralunNGoYFzkOYl29tshH3FfDu_5KjD__thX2EWbsO4QY1usvrEvKJPE887O4kn8SYpKyuGPoawgDENn723RM5zamfkaza2zp7Wl7b7IuHdrLkEJptvLGr-m0izz4m7_GNoMKTN7z-CyxPOLjojobLU6Xvs/s1209/20230729_105717.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh93dZiZg7Vxgrhy40bCfroM0fTmQA964rralunNGoYFzkOYl29tshH3FfDu_5KjD__thX2EWbsO4QY1usvrEvKJPE887O4kn8SYpKyuGPoawgDENn723RM5zamfkaza2zp7Wl7b7IuHdrLkEJptvLGr-m0izz4m7_GNoMKTN7z-CyxPOLjojobLU6Xvs/s320/20230729_105717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2f4mZeluIXMwaRrVHEwfZgtwsG4Y7bKvR_mXQeT211IOn9VANGfA1Z8D9FXxL3JVCp6j5D5FrkNq0d_1F5hdKJiUFDGsUUEmXSpnXnq_4O0fFJoRKwB4s3QWR4lyAT0xD_AZ-ZEDakmKobncCHAl5iML2mqzY2eSHXHliXjZ1dkb1ZpcSE22j6V6Ibg/s1209/20230729_105731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2f4mZeluIXMwaRrVHEwfZgtwsG4Y7bKvR_mXQeT211IOn9VANGfA1Z8D9FXxL3JVCp6j5D5FrkNq0d_1F5hdKJiUFDGsUUEmXSpnXnq_4O0fFJoRKwB4s3QWR4lyAT0xD_AZ-ZEDakmKobncCHAl5iML2mqzY2eSHXHliXjZ1dkb1ZpcSE22j6V6Ibg/s320/20230729_105731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv49gfl7PhV8amdZHmZkzlDhGu9W1dr09ywqUB9OfnlbsxxCOB4fJbv6T6LGkno069IHxT9E6pyKpISamSsa7cMlr4KQAlNDMRV5jxLGBV9PEfEiHLxg63FlGd4o_xzZPnziTvB8vuz4_PsZesWOnvoxo1AwEvK2WBQ1crsKNVkErIF9D1z8ZR3GfpBqE/s1209/20230729_105750.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv49gfl7PhV8amdZHmZkzlDhGu9W1dr09ywqUB9OfnlbsxxCOB4fJbv6T6LGkno069IHxT9E6pyKpISamSsa7cMlr4KQAlNDMRV5jxLGBV9PEfEiHLxg63FlGd4o_xzZPnziTvB8vuz4_PsZesWOnvoxo1AwEvK2WBQ1crsKNVkErIF9D1z8ZR3GfpBqE/s320/20230729_105750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMivb13LEZqfKrlrO3X0wYdoT3Lt3YwLIrLgrLuJs_93qX1pGAoatg8qAJ50zlFhMCIS-EON4_QCmx9gp6IEiPMWSISmlqJ-iTgUa9emgUUYRUHdG1c-jWthHntsakKTiGEO2QLLG0ijNCN7aJAT7_Hf-XCey_UjFEqhFPR7dQFEX6olvQwgDGsmMQ5Io/s1209/20230729_105816.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMivb13LEZqfKrlrO3X0wYdoT3Lt3YwLIrLgrLuJs_93qX1pGAoatg8qAJ50zlFhMCIS-EON4_QCmx9gp6IEiPMWSISmlqJ-iTgUa9emgUUYRUHdG1c-jWthHntsakKTiGEO2QLLG0ijNCN7aJAT7_Hf-XCey_UjFEqhFPR7dQFEX6olvQwgDGsmMQ5Io/s320/20230729_105816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4ri20YwL8PJctAu1fQoltWqQWWQO79swInb602OENkoOJBWkoG_NW1s7yKoacvV0FIoOPBs7-37Q-ehfYiaK5DOJefMOX6ok2d2Bj8Fyzmv1xTL8FrSxMEA84KOci2b6EFbCjSyAvxEshnoJrxTzy-3j3ri-GfP8lMKLYJJOrhW5i03daaDF7rPg5eo/s1209/20230729_105844.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4ri20YwL8PJctAu1fQoltWqQWWQO79swInb602OENkoOJBWkoG_NW1s7yKoacvV0FIoOPBs7-37Q-ehfYiaK5DOJefMOX6ok2d2Bj8Fyzmv1xTL8FrSxMEA84KOci2b6EFbCjSyAvxEshnoJrxTzy-3j3ri-GfP8lMKLYJJOrhW5i03daaDF7rPg5eo/s320/20230729_105844.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIv0nCu5oh8vzgr9yyNa8mODvOUexKsWh864wf6lCk25dJHhAKfeghojpAY7nDUFCAZ2RcH0sw-UaWZvHNEHQ2hUHltBHUypH8viB35gIwLev92P97ppliYEm3fCLWWfbldCuPdPk5_36yvtJV6hA-x1Iu-pnN1DWhmtbdY7WS4ZShz1JdzNHvHCoRQs4/s1209/20230729_105918.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIv0nCu5oh8vzgr9yyNa8mODvOUexKsWh864wf6lCk25dJHhAKfeghojpAY7nDUFCAZ2RcH0sw-UaWZvHNEHQ2hUHltBHUypH8viB35gIwLev92P97ppliYEm3fCLWWfbldCuPdPk5_36yvtJV6hA-x1Iu-pnN1DWhmtbdY7WS4ZShz1JdzNHvHCoRQs4/s320/20230729_105918.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJAv7vvG3xCpK8JDjfWB-Cm8GWPrj-Mm8zvE3T7PvlErsi3ELYCnJkAvw7p8ScrjgoJf5nUtJcidL51ljOvACnnkNs8lDuZxJ4kcO_cE-Lew69NeSy5zP9ohH9rkhPsCnXJOOH796GJ9VHRUVLWFYXxGN1zCcgT22Wxwz1rGhKPPlcxwZkhDDrjOjOLBM/s1209/20230729_110133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJAv7vvG3xCpK8JDjfWB-Cm8GWPrj-Mm8zvE3T7PvlErsi3ELYCnJkAvw7p8ScrjgoJf5nUtJcidL51ljOvACnnkNs8lDuZxJ4kcO_cE-Lew69NeSy5zP9ohH9rkhPsCnXJOOH796GJ9VHRUVLWFYXxGN1zCcgT22Wxwz1rGhKPPlcxwZkhDDrjOjOLBM/s320/20230729_110133.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Torniamo in piazza dopo aver tentato invano di entrare nel palazzo, dove si trova una scultura a forma di tlayuda (tipo tortilla) da 300kg, su cui sono raffigurate scene salienti della storia locale. Ci perdiamo nel brulicare di gente che fa cose, tra colori, suoni e profumi. E' bello tornare in città dopo tanti paesini, e quasi stordisce.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_rJaKhEP_woNss-ongPoioLj8j2hBnIXX95YniHh1fv8vpPdDOiIho9A8TfkM4X5R5pfNbbnwBhEo-gHab9iDxiw_TPCDMOx9qqcvol4VkSpj7zjUtyS9JO4Z8NDfAxwWJhprHD6xHSsdyTCpM6fDc-WvaUiZAtZR9DolXNLx1-qkPFko_HE_bhOLDY/s1209/20230729_110154.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_rJaKhEP_woNss-ongPoioLj8j2hBnIXX95YniHh1fv8vpPdDOiIho9A8TfkM4X5R5pfNbbnwBhEo-gHab9iDxiw_TPCDMOx9qqcvol4VkSpj7zjUtyS9JO4Z8NDfAxwWJhprHD6xHSsdyTCpM6fDc-WvaUiZAtZR9DolXNLx1-qkPFko_HE_bhOLDY/s320/20230729_110154.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji4YSzXBxlFvAzPw-4XG3Zfku2bLR3EXWsqGyK5bwfgnvG4w1pg_KscHIFbDT6otCdZKpDOovRHvCnOZ6En7Wcoqv_GVB1hRBC8weDCJea0IG-8AQakG_x-80724phf3lCQUvHWJsaywI6kGeWyjY5MO5uBKTF2H28EPfCoFXEVtFs7AafVnpBmhbY8JI/s1209/20230729_110228.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji4YSzXBxlFvAzPw-4XG3Zfku2bLR3EXWsqGyK5bwfgnvG4w1pg_KscHIFbDT6otCdZKpDOovRHvCnOZ6En7Wcoqv_GVB1hRBC8weDCJea0IG-8AQakG_x-80724phf3lCQUvHWJsaywI6kGeWyjY5MO5uBKTF2H28EPfCoFXEVtFs7AafVnpBmhbY8JI/s320/20230729_110228.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtpjpskKg-9POouuVt-JNzkLMv3Q46cbXNLDLcSOz2uz6zn94WmleYcxiMUx87Tkg8bvGEH7OObcpMgQY7oA_P1pc4lB5gDKnWJGIrOLnsiOyyIGulC8MgNb0o8klX7QgYk8Au5b1BO5KhXm_E_jbQVkBIA15wezgfud1RdvYFd7lEq3-XuGrab6lm6uc/s1209/20230729_110312.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtpjpskKg-9POouuVt-JNzkLMv3Q46cbXNLDLcSOz2uz6zn94WmleYcxiMUx87Tkg8bvGEH7OObcpMgQY7oA_P1pc4lB5gDKnWJGIrOLnsiOyyIGulC8MgNb0o8klX7QgYk8Au5b1BO5KhXm_E_jbQVkBIA15wezgfud1RdvYFd7lEq3-XuGrab6lm6uc/s320/20230729_110312.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UtVVtRuX6_iwQpMO7t65wJlWfAH7Rn8I9wy0stE5ULBzOWEte5N7cG3x-3B4Er35QJg5wpwkNLi84Maug6mnJQfFgGG5gWG0jA9OUhLiqcLGKzskYDearH7Xdlx3SxK40Pr_IB8CNwABEfANE8RothTETum2TTbK1FiOVcWn-tRMLJxjuuYrdWTA3VQ/s1209/20230729_110558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UtVVtRuX6_iwQpMO7t65wJlWfAH7Rn8I9wy0stE5ULBzOWEte5N7cG3x-3B4Er35QJg5wpwkNLi84Maug6mnJQfFgGG5gWG0jA9OUhLiqcLGKzskYDearH7Xdlx3SxK40Pr_IB8CNwABEfANE8RothTETum2TTbK1FiOVcWn-tRMLJxjuuYrdWTA3VQ/s320/20230729_110558.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6gyyTnX3ZrQfYj9g0OkVbxxqSnCKeAfB2MmGvBtfIpeCL3mu48xeblMvIjTXDNUULw2a-bwy_V7rxZmnnQMP5z4Z3LPn6sot1R8CQd15veQAIhe1BydPP1jY3ijHe6PtNo8KO_h-RrNXlL5yonu6ImFv0fUMOVB_mOAUeuPxXnYqdUWgZFczoDdB9ys/s1209/20230729_110625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6gyyTnX3ZrQfYj9g0OkVbxxqSnCKeAfB2MmGvBtfIpeCL3mu48xeblMvIjTXDNUULw2a-bwy_V7rxZmnnQMP5z4Z3LPn6sot1R8CQd15veQAIhe1BydPP1jY3ijHe6PtNo8KO_h-RrNXlL5yonu6ImFv0fUMOVB_mOAUeuPxXnYqdUWgZFczoDdB9ys/s320/20230729_110625.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43xqIe1iFuBplYLZJoMQnhA2KXRmXf98_KmR4P8XtA55OYi6v-1qxBws9P8nfDCCYV8xHRoLhuSNXf6CmARi4Zs8y_kCYDuGx3Rrc3FmlgMDkd5x41wJx1DK_fNcAQX-pR10IjueVFsQX_AsEh925BI4eER1Hv6cKV4TRfITvnPICgzdLF1FUgeoRneU/s1209/20230729_110821.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43xqIe1iFuBplYLZJoMQnhA2KXRmXf98_KmR4P8XtA55OYi6v-1qxBws9P8nfDCCYV8xHRoLhuSNXf6CmARi4Zs8y_kCYDuGx3Rrc3FmlgMDkd5x41wJx1DK_fNcAQX-pR10IjueVFsQX_AsEh925BI4eER1Hv6cKV4TRfITvnPICgzdLF1FUgeoRneU/s320/20230729_110821.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Attraversando la piazza si raggiunge la cattedrale, antica, maestosa e austera, con la sua pietra chiara e le decorazioni barocche. E' stata iniziata nel 1553 e finita nel XVIII secolo, dopo una serie di terremoti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ODeseo_UVKAMNZxOCvixHxdY3g1JoDr5F14rpqqq6SDs6uY1kExEk1P2BBDZwj10bbmKGTaREar_DEDwxmEnMfIGYYjR6HgthkKDil-O0Ei1qd1EqJwCD9Jo1xhpqDJyYmTdktVulEZh4djzO_-DB3dtDmZ10qnX8raBMxDNl5AWJ2metYM6PyK_nFY/s1209/20230729_110946.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ODeseo_UVKAMNZxOCvixHxdY3g1JoDr5F14rpqqq6SDs6uY1kExEk1P2BBDZwj10bbmKGTaREar_DEDwxmEnMfIGYYjR6HgthkKDil-O0Ei1qd1EqJwCD9Jo1xhpqDJyYmTdktVulEZh4djzO_-DB3dtDmZ10qnX8raBMxDNl5AWJ2metYM6PyK_nFY/s320/20230729_110946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_R1yB-mbHr7EETE6u6n3GjOc3tnQyh1D4S31laswgOTD-j4onOWB7ozg1ACcmSDAVd3l5WmHBYL1jPASKw89sDus9cQS469b1y4gtV_fDr-7Zl7r1M_Z-WQSYYCN7WA9C84z9A76yGOuHapV8ZF-UX5qKHr_d0NNnDVsgu4vVBFjndKlArmZw-Zehzs/s1209/20230729_111201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_R1yB-mbHr7EETE6u6n3GjOc3tnQyh1D4S31laswgOTD-j4onOWB7ozg1ACcmSDAVd3l5WmHBYL1jPASKw89sDus9cQS469b1y4gtV_fDr-7Zl7r1M_Z-WQSYYCN7WA9C84z9A76yGOuHapV8ZF-UX5qKHr_d0NNnDVsgu4vVBFjndKlArmZw-Zehzs/s320/20230729_111201.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitFeD1-_8WwoTQHlWs_YkfxeMhriFzZBzmfD7FJe_19Kzz3zaKcuoZ0N1HHd46jUk9ESEtJUgJbDMFPkgs-m39CtHivyunrOWbnvImhdWD1iOtL6Fa_ViVyBlblzg5xV_JYGGP_pmRIMa5ryIOcq0Gr4ZF4jl405s7tNEiBlwxBj1xz0Ad_hLgUqyCcl4/s1209/20230729_111319.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitFeD1-_8WwoTQHlWs_YkfxeMhriFzZBzmfD7FJe_19Kzz3zaKcuoZ0N1HHd46jUk9ESEtJUgJbDMFPkgs-m39CtHivyunrOWbnvImhdWD1iOtL6Fa_ViVyBlblzg5xV_JYGGP_pmRIMa5ryIOcq0Gr4ZF4jl405s7tNEiBlwxBj1xz0Ad_hLgUqyCcl4/s320/20230729_111319.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">c'è chi chatta, chi recita il rosario in ginocchio e chi accarezza la teca con una statua del Cristo deposto</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGfQMBOvG5a08j9OwgHz03IyiwRY7i3BoOOSrWbmIWvdUPHsG94TYSDj1pfDqJpsDHxfuyiqukLVckcHqNR59FsvsHpA_je3pXqoEJoPG3G_MRH2tzR6t_zgEQN6eWIadyiMjHoLMaE65TQVzSnptGrUFQeyVoWwyFemteO5-S5EurqSCFk6enUmdQHbM/s1209/20230729_111416.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGfQMBOvG5a08j9OwgHz03IyiwRY7i3BoOOSrWbmIWvdUPHsG94TYSDj1pfDqJpsDHxfuyiqukLVckcHqNR59FsvsHpA_je3pXqoEJoPG3G_MRH2tzR6t_zgEQN6eWIadyiMjHoLMaE65TQVzSnptGrUFQeyVoWwyFemteO5-S5EurqSCFk6enUmdQHbM/s320/20230729_111416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEL1l6A-IugMthaVTHA1OxEPVHjsMlDqQMQUAT6JWugIN1ELS81qlftK1o6q3ilXvcrY8iwU4kAGqh5i_5eBXV1HI-cdMDUJSF06ghrZesdxKoBF006jYiAosZX7wJTR58C38V2I48kavbku-nTPluz_LwDpdPfOViyqc_fxQ8DGCsh9i1efaGPCs7Fg/s1209/20230729_111724.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEL1l6A-IugMthaVTHA1OxEPVHjsMlDqQMQUAT6JWugIN1ELS81qlftK1o6q3ilXvcrY8iwU4kAGqh5i_5eBXV1HI-cdMDUJSF06ghrZesdxKoBF006jYiAosZX7wJTR58C38V2I48kavbku-nTPluz_LwDpdPfOViyqc_fxQ8DGCsh9i1efaGPCs7Fg/s320/20230729_111724.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr773DSqR6si0_gwIP3Qy0y94HbrzctPvDEAjQVPLdGQV4a1UGBmD_HWZg5xhFXsNZVDyX_3TLSyZ8DN_QH6hdA0eVTLL1vNW3_xQGe1rH-7Qs9InHHDkRuOInUohZGF_tB1BGzuy6JGAxgdp3rk8EcIhH01-08OOR0v8L7NDMjtz2a8lh08UI6fqblJc/s1209/20230729_111804.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr773DSqR6si0_gwIP3Qy0y94HbrzctPvDEAjQVPLdGQV4a1UGBmD_HWZg5xhFXsNZVDyX_3TLSyZ8DN_QH6hdA0eVTLL1vNW3_xQGe1rH-7Qs9InHHDkRuOInUohZGF_tB1BGzuy6JGAxgdp3rk8EcIhH01-08OOR0v8L7NDMjtz2a8lh08UI6fqblJc/s320/20230729_111804.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjWisRQb6E1o8B9D5rkZwW-I4FlnbEXmr4-qo0DymkhUCrU6Hf2A_a5X8xoVH05WCXsMMR29kpSWLjyuVSy9mnHqVPmXC6Ef8AS-XEtcgUtFggarzdI7kvqedOEJKch4jrwo79vZqn4Qwwb48GDP5CxnyjNClPpqkR-j7n2vIj3Mc875GzyWaBGbPIas/s1209/20230729_111824.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUjWisRQb6E1o8B9D5rkZwW-I4FlnbEXmr4-qo0DymkhUCrU6Hf2A_a5X8xoVH05WCXsMMR29kpSWLjyuVSy9mnHqVPmXC6Ef8AS-XEtcgUtFggarzdI7kvqedOEJKch4jrwo79vZqn4Qwwb48GDP5CxnyjNClPpqkR-j7n2vIj3Mc875GzyWaBGbPIas/s320/20230729_111824.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwgOo8cRm9FW3rpQUwVlQ_LPSFl8EufL3En5AEDQ47015zLQUMpFEdhSa-cyz1CFakZMeO6vARW-93JjCN9htwTOVYFdzlh2JjDiqcESVnu7KXTqF3VpkEUDx3l0PO_7TnCR_iX4NhhPsr8EPDLhsoH6bfxY4TAuocVTf1ffkOrM3tnW7tBlSVrmECJmA/s1209/20230729_111842.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwgOo8cRm9FW3rpQUwVlQ_LPSFl8EufL3En5AEDQ47015zLQUMpFEdhSa-cyz1CFakZMeO6vARW-93JjCN9htwTOVYFdzlh2JjDiqcESVnu7KXTqF3VpkEUDx3l0PO_7TnCR_iX4NhhPsr8EPDLhsoH6bfxY4TAuocVTf1ffkOrM3tnW7tBlSVrmECJmA/s320/20230729_111842.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgerVH7FxzMj2Tg1eiKj8lnW3VwN12qz0yQ7lWrwk6FnPEYqLK-Q1a_5wX6rMLEnutrRwH7Dv3vfdT5WVIuoqak6NXo5nvXtFEmdUZjwFTYUYnUiPGuLlU4Z1zeeSnB8zWGKaNk3gdtnDVzTDQC0YvcfHQU6ti3sUSl_qVyE3VqPKhS0-Vkf8QZvqQNEXE/s1209/20230729_112118.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgerVH7FxzMj2Tg1eiKj8lnW3VwN12qz0yQ7lWrwk6FnPEYqLK-Q1a_5wX6rMLEnutrRwH7Dv3vfdT5WVIuoqak6NXo5nvXtFEmdUZjwFTYUYnUiPGuLlU4Z1zeeSnB8zWGKaNk3gdtnDVzTDQC0YvcfHQU6ti3sUSl_qVyE3VqPKhS0-Vkf8QZvqQNEXE/s320/20230729_112118.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo un banchetto per chiedere giustizia per chi è finito ingiustamente al gabbio e un mercato, ci avviamo verso l'andador turistico, strada che dagli anni '80 è chiusa al traffico e corre dalla cattedrale al tempio di Santo Domingo, tra edifici in pietra di epoca coloniale, boutique, gallerie d'arte, mezcalerie, ristoranti pettinati e mercati di artigiani di alto livello, oltre agli immancabili ambulantes (tra cui numerosi bambini che vendono i loro disegni).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcyRtSHD4sguyPT0am48Xn2JIKjyAUspu7RSM7y3BTEqfuIvll45U1FBH0HAYGZFdg8YNmRHTF4RFoigL1PJUqzbDE6JcK-W0-2dcZnQjjNSZe21gRgIX-qFnBU-SCITYlW90PZdG46yl4H6D3fSHUdtjh4Gj5GK4rJAA4YrhedWgP5LDG1I8sgj1bhgo/s1209/20230729_112205.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcyRtSHD4sguyPT0am48Xn2JIKjyAUspu7RSM7y3BTEqfuIvll45U1FBH0HAYGZFdg8YNmRHTF4RFoigL1PJUqzbDE6JcK-W0-2dcZnQjjNSZe21gRgIX-qFnBU-SCITYlW90PZdG46yl4H6D3fSHUdtjh4Gj5GK4rJAA4YrhedWgP5LDG1I8sgj1bhgo/s320/20230729_112205.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una parola sul mole, che è la quintessenza della cucina regionale. E' una salsa a base di peperoncino e spezie di cui esistono tantissime varietà (amarillo, verde, colorado, rojo, manteles...). La preparazione è complessa e molto elaborata, e i segreti delle ricette si tramandano da generazioni. Il mole spesso è più importante della carne con cui viene servito. Quello tipico di Oaxaca è il mole negro, raffinato e raro, che si prepara con tre diversi tipi di peperoncino, foglie di avocado che san di anice, pomodoro, farina di mais e una punta di cioccolato.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVimWDHs0IL3ogSVef9tlXrQmD4keqd20g1cLf5dscwSbxaF6FLctv6nWGKKM6WLglKtwBEtQHFrEkfOws9ZITqO_GpMz10cWpJVsBU0VJLtOeostV__XaKKgA5h19C6HVNFCUa-VwFvL8mul7IXEEQRPj905Eyj2cvP6P1lMYx7dCuBoUCUITV1Uu2DQ/s1209/20230729_112306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVimWDHs0IL3ogSVef9tlXrQmD4keqd20g1cLf5dscwSbxaF6FLctv6nWGKKM6WLglKtwBEtQHFrEkfOws9ZITqO_GpMz10cWpJVsBU0VJLtOeostV__XaKKgA5h19C6HVNFCUa-VwFvL8mul7IXEEQRPj905Eyj2cvP6P1lMYx7dCuBoUCUITV1Uu2DQ/s320/20230729_112306.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMX6U4xPq99w4RQHdqv2eJm9pgrP8mlv8_XRB05Ee5H9gRxZLzWfuMLYr6oB9DCfIt4a1DvHaMNKLxfKHUtEobpKNauSykTUrnfsCAtjI0cZ3WTGk88RT8Hu4LZqrdhnBrBiz9ZlfZG_JI4lSvoIo1XVTcBJTRcN_jaz5B92ZZu5fC-yIDqs2orJRPrD0/s1209/20230729_112355.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMX6U4xPq99w4RQHdqv2eJm9pgrP8mlv8_XRB05Ee5H9gRxZLzWfuMLYr6oB9DCfIt4a1DvHaMNKLxfKHUtEobpKNauSykTUrnfsCAtjI0cZ3WTGk88RT8Hu4LZqrdhnBrBiz9ZlfZG_JI4lSvoIo1XVTcBJTRcN_jaz5B92ZZu5fC-yIDqs2orJRPrD0/s320/20230729_112355.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">maschere regionali che fanno invidia a quelle sarde</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0KL3AZNSybDOCujXayTYqn-9MQTsA9X5NyqnWxyLlATrZkCDMiW4kYGSgofKjOmd6W5kgWFTHIM1QJpLwlFotM81j9TYgkrI6SmLia216x1fY99NMqsCZ3hWFkUhV70Ic4Bn12pRVrWDRk0ooF7koXeiphx-01Rbxq81O3jNwvS5vM9wly075cSm6yA/s1209/20230729_112439.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0KL3AZNSybDOCujXayTYqn-9MQTsA9X5NyqnWxyLlATrZkCDMiW4kYGSgofKjOmd6W5kgWFTHIM1QJpLwlFotM81j9TYgkrI6SmLia216x1fY99NMqsCZ3hWFkUhV70Ic4Bn12pRVrWDRk0ooF7koXeiphx-01Rbxq81O3jNwvS5vM9wly075cSm6yA/s320/20230729_112439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOiLWuQomytTFKab3AIjitWKarFZFOO5mMOUzYX_6teNMWdUdq6lxuvk3F1jxf2pzoTmkzyoZVMqLhff9Ca5RrEtseF75qeRNhxC1BmYA3dBNcb8LnbqipVsJm8pkIeMCIw4zm6KUxf8Wys8HTGaD71XE15Nr19T59VUpTUfaCG6LylpM8eRH-B3b2U0/s1209/20230729_112601.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOiLWuQomytTFKab3AIjitWKarFZFOO5mMOUzYX_6teNMWdUdq6lxuvk3F1jxf2pzoTmkzyoZVMqLhff9Ca5RrEtseF75qeRNhxC1BmYA3dBNcb8LnbqipVsJm8pkIeMCIw4zm6KUxf8Wys8HTGaD71XE15Nr19T59VUpTUfaCG6LylpM8eRH-B3b2U0/s320/20230729_112601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6BlwgtkUUelAmvxgfZZkMb2SXW7ff_DfyY2sYYh0tdZV9WSkHXaVj1I5lSRjT06N-kZj5H-Elnp71vj1Cwh78FGoG5Px6hIdjlXDwHCS9PagtoSXSPKCu9v_d2Rqf0NfBbaa4rFU1xdDikkc8syIJxsENZOTKdPwZbbmLPVexQ2M2GRfE1IybJQnZFI/s1209/20230729_112723.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6BlwgtkUUelAmvxgfZZkMb2SXW7ff_DfyY2sYYh0tdZV9WSkHXaVj1I5lSRjT06N-kZj5H-Elnp71vj1Cwh78FGoG5Px6hIdjlXDwHCS9PagtoSXSPKCu9v_d2Rqf0NfBbaa4rFU1xdDikkc8syIJxsENZOTKdPwZbbmLPVexQ2M2GRfE1IybJQnZFI/s320/20230729_112723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuz1jpGP1X6X9pMtsDha7g5OoiRY9zbvls5kzDRgGDfs4_r0rvNDSx_Fnge4_9HkRgbtw1wHZ6eaPYZXmHSVPYJ6MJjwyxsb7n8IIch0DG26CziNlFlEKX6Kume4cyun65B594k4A0Sm_1srr8cuItPHyg6UZMIiNeC_OtHDy17TSSEnpejwQJFN3RNJo/s1209/20230729_112817.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuz1jpGP1X6X9pMtsDha7g5OoiRY9zbvls5kzDRgGDfs4_r0rvNDSx_Fnge4_9HkRgbtw1wHZ6eaPYZXmHSVPYJ6MJjwyxsb7n8IIch0DG26CziNlFlEKX6Kume4cyun65B594k4A0Sm_1srr8cuItPHyg6UZMIiNeC_OtHDy17TSSEnpejwQJFN3RNJo/s320/20230729_112817.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">in Messico, nelle città, si usa molto l'ombrello per ripararsi dal sole -e poi dalle improvvise piogge</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefohSfxuSk5RwFY3FgxD48PBJQEE1-_3W5peDRjPZIPPjGx_z1wRecUl7YwqCaroG8a7ET0bVAKJLtC1EJvVRPT__Uu-jcsMQHOfuW8x10TmYsRx3M8OtKybBU-RAKKcEDsDgZx1RvAl_KpdeNdJ8rQ_vYijz5eQ0496BLR298fzeUZm_U05CGBcn2NA/s1209/20230729_112910.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefohSfxuSk5RwFY3FgxD48PBJQEE1-_3W5peDRjPZIPPjGx_z1wRecUl7YwqCaroG8a7ET0bVAKJLtC1EJvVRPT__Uu-jcsMQHOfuW8x10TmYsRx3M8OtKybBU-RAKKcEDsDgZx1RvAl_KpdeNdJ8rQ_vYijz5eQ0496BLR298fzeUZm_U05CGBcn2NA/s320/20230729_112910.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfk1LiwJdgKAK5syhy6tUROaO4dR4g9ujj3XRV-XOqr_4lGMPZnLWaXzJqtrJpyLN_q82nL7UHWf54IKELiqcS5coNUzq4ylfEkb7egSh0X-t64dQuQ_2baOeh0Ik7wenOK5uj8tU4WmNYd2h9mj1f7voPRwLz6eie0LtvG9dU1a-s57eVb7vvdUHFiiY/s1209/20230729_112918.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfk1LiwJdgKAK5syhy6tUROaO4dR4g9ujj3XRV-XOqr_4lGMPZnLWaXzJqtrJpyLN_q82nL7UHWf54IKELiqcS5coNUzq4ylfEkb7egSh0X-t64dQuQ_2baOeh0Ik7wenOK5uj8tU4WmNYd2h9mj1f7voPRwLz6eie0LtvG9dU1a-s57eVb7vvdUHFiiY/s320/20230729_112918.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">nuestra identidad, nuestra cultura, nuestra ciudad non son un negocio</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSyfsHGDd3fuDfHqJs94BadcNVpCRUU2kdlup3ALBOGMEmnqa0uYII_DMjh_ufGZqC-aqO-rj214Z2sFaA2JjF1HkqBtRq9AHQGWF93ZZTPMxwvn5QzF_4HiP2xwPmrzJpwZCCMLlgBrlKqfnzwI6ftYNoGjzhdbZShxTh3dkZQA-d0TliQbObe81rpdc/s1209/20230729_113003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSyfsHGDd3fuDfHqJs94BadcNVpCRUU2kdlup3ALBOGMEmnqa0uYII_DMjh_ufGZqC-aqO-rj214Z2sFaA2JjF1HkqBtRq9AHQGWF93ZZTPMxwvn5QzF_4HiP2xwPmrzJpwZCCMLlgBrlKqfnzwI6ftYNoGjzhdbZShxTh3dkZQA-d0TliQbObe81rpdc/s320/20230729_113003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_UIel1Un9aAR2HfXCZUx8I0FkV_K0XkVY70kcPbPGWHmPuZdBKetkwplWiqJUgoe-KD01cQrQNV9LzmTPOeAsCX2XsGYwy56aC2ega-wTBqAI_uW4c_L_9anuzQTXFRhxQ9l9vXd8FyCS09DMhaiF1uP8x7QyNa2GHQFjEidnfokTQOrZzFiJmFRuA88/s1209/20230729_113240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_UIel1Un9aAR2HfXCZUx8I0FkV_K0XkVY70kcPbPGWHmPuZdBKetkwplWiqJUgoe-KD01cQrQNV9LzmTPOeAsCX2XsGYwy56aC2ega-wTBqAI_uW4c_L_9anuzQTXFRhxQ9l9vXd8FyCS09DMhaiF1uP8x7QyNa2GHQFjEidnfokTQOrZzFiJmFRuA88/s320/20230729_113240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZDZqd9enmg6_qMnctjw2DcJMWFRONmX_hPNeC6xgQVoMRT4zxRjL7Uqqbc9p_vnKVi5vREr1_wDdDbAjt6IgjtgSoYvVJVLBMHB_08JesHlrww1REajebIpn7XQevT2eOHYpULkvN4-VZCZWM10GZkrxyPb0gew2pJed2onBvQorOm3cJaEtdOpqyE9k/s320/20230729_114136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5Li-7Qt0_qThVt1_cShdVe5fIIfM6YNSIwloNZd1ZeEy4QvFc-jyPnXUqVsfQpAv1vUI2LiF9WwmdjwdyhMXJ6YYO1jSD-oV-pWEjKcOxzpC2oHUOZww2ku1ISeMLMCXqlRvcQ4v4U_TtXAiSFZOsJrd4EByUjs-6pZMzfJXvzkc1ue0DXn0c0VN2zo/s1209/20230729_114144.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5Li-7Qt0_qThVt1_cShdVe5fIIfM6YNSIwloNZd1ZeEy4QvFc-jyPnXUqVsfQpAv1vUI2LiF9WwmdjwdyhMXJ6YYO1jSD-oV-pWEjKcOxzpC2oHUOZww2ku1ISeMLMCXqlRvcQ4v4U_TtXAiSFZOsJrd4EByUjs-6pZMzfJXvzkc1ue0DXn0c0VN2zo/s320/20230729_114144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhcc13ua62eDKtNvNojPcUOGSXRy-HPz61olz1UQUlezH7okpJ64g7oL8LGB-QPPW4l-RDCJEY-R4KMMcGRiaWVMRuS2BCFgF4VJZ9ZX80emP3HOMmufQCDqTVB2z8J-4WWuGQ_Rj588cuhkEK_iFLMc7zXtK3Y-DNKc6tjrcSP5r1UoIfuMHBrYa_Fkc/s320/20230729_114405.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo la breve e piacevolissima passeggiata sulla via pedonale, raggiungiamo l'imponente Templo de Santo Domingo. E' considerata la più bella chiesa della città, con sculture barocche sulla facciata e interni decorati centimetro per centimetro con dipinti, altorilievi e arabeschi dorati. La costruzione si è svolta per lo più tra 1570 e 1608, insieme all'adiacente monastero domenicano, grazie al contributo dei migliori artigiani dell'epoca, provenienti da tutto il paese. La chiesa è sopravvissuta ai terremoti grazie alle spesse mura. Santo Domingo de Guzman è rappresentato sulla facciata, in centro, mentre all'interno, sul soffitto è raffigurato il suo complesso albero genealogico. Anche qui i domenicani si schierarono a favore dei nativi contro gli eccessi del colonialismo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KqoirGbsYk4k0FO3h_TpMPq_31VMYPP1-Egpe-NNgwSo8cUYaWAHMayoBos7GYLm0BDQ0qxSeHdZCm8K5iy7tGi06w-1J7foCtZJkXsP8f4AFd5O1W1Recn-RIeB0QsFugFXRA47whSN5mnGmbRVUeO-2vsA6AWY-ed43MVfAT-yyaOm-MlW9XpgCNo/s1209/20230729_114414.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1KqoirGbsYk4k0FO3h_TpMPq_31VMYPP1-Egpe-NNgwSo8cUYaWAHMayoBos7GYLm0BDQ0qxSeHdZCm8K5iy7tGi06w-1J7foCtZJkXsP8f4AFd5O1W1Recn-RIeB0QsFugFXRA47whSN5mnGmbRVUeO-2vsA6AWY-ed43MVfAT-yyaOm-MlW9XpgCNo/s320/20230729_114414.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpcOlxkuRTKKgtl1js-voYvHrL2QZXYVX7S6SW-9PIv8m2H3ZwlmGBPtKfkrYyOjGlK-yeGUXv8wbEu30dAsXGU7t0Sgt5XlQ-N7B4U8syvhSlLKIDb-_Svw9ywYl2UPI7Nxlm1yM89lRHjqMQdPX61GdL6F6xpgefa5fhzFqswaVMXIxgAV4fq8cdpQ/s1209/20230729_114527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpcOlxkuRTKKgtl1js-voYvHrL2QZXYVX7S6SW-9PIv8m2H3ZwlmGBPtKfkrYyOjGlK-yeGUXv8wbEu30dAsXGU7t0Sgt5XlQ-N7B4U8syvhSlLKIDb-_Svw9ywYl2UPI7Nxlm1yM89lRHjqMQdPX61GdL6F6xpgefa5fhzFqswaVMXIxgAV4fq8cdpQ/s320/20230729_114527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegAdAShPtsxV6Ny0ufUoO6JMnbP4n8oV22-keNX2jur9dFI-JVE2bsKwnc6D5eMLT5DLud0HN0e0KT-HAoT3V3jsyin2a0UgaOGkAeUpFPA8oWWPU7fuPmVtoCgXb8WIGfg8O2Cqm1PSqWV4BFHkf0Xq89S-V6O9rCb6TLiShNJDQacP0Wgn3RnCxUnw/s1209/20230729_114554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegAdAShPtsxV6Ny0ufUoO6JMnbP4n8oV22-keNX2jur9dFI-JVE2bsKwnc6D5eMLT5DLud0HN0e0KT-HAoT3V3jsyin2a0UgaOGkAeUpFPA8oWWPU7fuPmVtoCgXb8WIGfg8O2Cqm1PSqWV4BFHkf0Xq89S-V6O9rCb6TLiShNJDQacP0Wgn3RnCxUnw/s320/20230729_114554.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGGT9X38rs4x-01Pj3EjgHp67wj5UgYwjFgE3cYTyvLgSFzyF-O4f2Ay4gUskQZKCZJcqEYbpV3yECaTTo4lxOT8CPaRp8QdpAn-iFdrkCTlfiwAm88ip7rzaT9OTcCx1BsVXgK7dtAaCJpdPYXLqmeEs2LqnyFsGwhntl3jxgQwkrV7TtYlTxILWDBQI/s1209/20230729_190607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGGT9X38rs4x-01Pj3EjgHp67wj5UgYwjFgE3cYTyvLgSFzyF-O4f2Ay4gUskQZKCZJcqEYbpV3yECaTTo4lxOT8CPaRp8QdpAn-iFdrkCTlfiwAm88ip7rzaT9OTcCx1BsVXgK7dtAaCJpdPYXLqmeEs2LqnyFsGwhntl3jxgQwkrV7TtYlTxILWDBQI/s320/20230729_190607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeERUtMuuU8LZAZkMfrftvRFPqMoGPWVcMDZSnl9A7YTBfoCTK4N12mXG1WODUdd8JA7kOiFyrYtErPP6M73mlP-1u9hLeV4Y7Z6fOWQC_LnQSSBRa1kUBTG26XWOWBatz-KW2NB3Fz-9KjUq7-KKugephAV1ezNw0PYLq9oVwSpplUzRdMcZgK_DgXVc/s1209/20230729_190626.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeERUtMuuU8LZAZkMfrftvRFPqMoGPWVcMDZSnl9A7YTBfoCTK4N12mXG1WODUdd8JA7kOiFyrYtErPP6M73mlP-1u9hLeV4Y7Z6fOWQC_LnQSSBRa1kUBTG26XWOWBatz-KW2NB3Fz-9KjUq7-KKugephAV1ezNw0PYLq9oVwSpplUzRdMcZgK_DgXVc/s320/20230729_190626.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijr2X8ungEpgjt8QS9xxnOTpkyNu57y496Vt7FF49ZoDt9Wyefr0RazPia1rRq_3M2fgsf8d-monTYFaJQWxXoJh9p61veVV_5wYFsoPytOoQOqG54PWWvbWgifh0rA03T0asgZjJUxXxLQqIj09gT5bo-uvHY1QkYGNRrndAemCY89xU-39PMjDMFXb0/s1209/20230729_190646.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijr2X8ungEpgjt8QS9xxnOTpkyNu57y496Vt7FF49ZoDt9Wyefr0RazPia1rRq_3M2fgsf8d-monTYFaJQWxXoJh9p61veVV_5wYFsoPytOoQOqG54PWWvbWgifh0rA03T0asgZjJUxXxLQqIj09gT5bo-uvHY1QkYGNRrndAemCY89xU-39PMjDMFXb0/s320/20230729_190646.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Proprio nel monastero domenicano ha sede il Museo de las culturas de Oaxaca. Anche in questo caso, come già è capitato in altri musei simili qui in Messico, non si tratta solo di una collezione di reperti archeologici. L'obiettivo delle esposizioni è quello di mostrare l'evoluzione e la continuità delle culture dello stato dal periodo preispanico ad oggi, in ambiti come artigianato, cucina e medicina, ripercorrendone la storia. L'edificio che ospita le mostre merita, già di per sè, una visita, tra decorazioni e chiostro.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV38FvGv7WAdlKDQsJWXR2XtC-91uG0ADx8pXu6FDAOpWgMiWa-f77K79_P0ltnXjCOUhdz2EIQV_-IuwCJuvaPd-p210VQO37pawwnztQcu9M1qOuPw3Kz6GMU_2F5X6_YMstZn4JyAPKW5AolraDpv1DwQgEw2XijnWqg1uEa0yFbKoqBvUWzhQ5eXM/s1209/20230729_114731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV38FvGv7WAdlKDQsJWXR2XtC-91uG0ADx8pXu6FDAOpWgMiWa-f77K79_P0ltnXjCOUhdz2EIQV_-IuwCJuvaPd-p210VQO37pawwnztQcu9M1qOuPw3Kz6GMU_2F5X6_YMstZn4JyAPKW5AolraDpv1DwQgEw2XijnWqg1uEa0yFbKoqBvUWzhQ5eXM/s320/20230729_114731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTn4sbfewmZiYnIsBr2r9PLLpHsAay2oM4D12fBmS3n5UrQXTmkAlYpXCN9Ao8nXSQL_oxWaewSf3RduHM7b7KLeiqL4WTdn1Ar35lvitwHU5hxgv7iR8UDxhSzTa9MWS8ldYAMfGUe67hKvXVKxTsujQO8xh7zXgRCv0sAwdg70Ar_9PzLkni4RPQW4/s320/20230729_115256.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha35ia9Wltx3LnUcB-x814wE-NctV31utR6KbxepLUbDUN0RF9RWZgXm5jNXfwNYjhsorZguidOYTBGnGVBQFDybDe-DqaAv8KpVGnuqc_gkRarmjWnq_6BT5jUO54hQSJ0aqIVaMz5KMgQGXGBtRxfDPgtUeIbqMhc7agBiShTOLi5V9MhViJzje38y4/s1209/20230729_115317.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha35ia9Wltx3LnUcB-x814wE-NctV31utR6KbxepLUbDUN0RF9RWZgXm5jNXfwNYjhsorZguidOYTBGnGVBQFDybDe-DqaAv8KpVGnuqc_gkRarmjWnq_6BT5jUO54hQSJ0aqIVaMz5KMgQGXGBtRxfDPgtUeIbqMhc7agBiShTOLi5V9MhViJzje38y4/s320/20230729_115317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-tbNQF7PDrSdm8wK1QzLCs5c2LhySZ-arqVENgCRV7s3CbX8OADsTfZoBwGn9eVVHxopW6uNSpGRRo__43hfyc0ez6NjeeOB4pI4Wpeqqdfq-FgLte-pbZk3cVPC5PwxZKEaQpm2M-ry-h-xYRoUtDY4lNgwCT1lMawN5i3u_iaN3k6OixqrkoGD6m0c/s1209/20230729_115447.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-tbNQF7PDrSdm8wK1QzLCs5c2LhySZ-arqVENgCRV7s3CbX8OADsTfZoBwGn9eVVHxopW6uNSpGRRo__43hfyc0ez6NjeeOB4pI4Wpeqqdfq-FgLte-pbZk3cVPC5PwxZKEaQpm2M-ry-h-xYRoUtDY4lNgwCT1lMawN5i3u_iaN3k6OixqrkoGD6m0c/s320/20230729_115447.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaj-bWJiONG5zDDv7lHD9OnLIvX1wWbWCNM-czTwfiAVaew-rvsGcMiE4-T3rxmvD9gmJhA3-07U2zzjgiT01e9mZvjUoUSVwHBBlSjIqt0PD5og_4UlXCLkzz1bRGgRsyd9Cb6QLLjw8K_Ap4C3Tw2y_7NjhmVGsVVBdZuP3ChFQcl0QnPqeAC9LZ0M/s1209/20230729_115452.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaj-bWJiONG5zDDv7lHD9OnLIvX1wWbWCNM-czTwfiAVaew-rvsGcMiE4-T3rxmvD9gmJhA3-07U2zzjgiT01e9mZvjUoUSVwHBBlSjIqt0PD5og_4UlXCLkzz1bRGgRsyd9Cb6QLLjw8K_Ap4C3Tw2y_7NjhmVGsVVBdZuP3ChFQcl0QnPqeAC9LZ0M/s320/20230729_115452.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOk4qL0bnpMdYYtgQnW2czj5X-HP5lggRjtkSNEBcsCqn3O7HUnT-Nu6dXCRWkrz3Ag9_LERoIVdKA_vZZQaIB21ErmX9EKuU3zGHUYTmkrpO-0rZ5Ss3r0urmg9cWbD9nrjp50kOUhxeFmRKNS6ZVDZ4oKi1pGvBKHf1EdskONP-zGwKAMCo97TCh5ow/s1209/20230729_115703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOk4qL0bnpMdYYtgQnW2czj5X-HP5lggRjtkSNEBcsCqn3O7HUnT-Nu6dXCRWkrz3Ag9_LERoIVdKA_vZZQaIB21ErmX9EKuU3zGHUYTmkrpO-0rZ5Ss3r0urmg9cWbD9nrjp50kOUhxeFmRKNS6ZVDZ4oKi1pGvBKHf1EdskONP-zGwKAMCo97TCh5ow/s320/20230729_115703.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2M9kdeoNx4RZ6ZX5zbhHEZjHcJo0jsiwxCn8zxzFjhAWDXeZbFTgK-gjQBxnqEki0HkK21MxzNOc7UHO-RrI1mIR1VcjMhtUjhronDbtEnKP86I8SqdmZF6P7ENCGSuz1YvcFRkihAGp7eNFwYSj8GYQQwm4wcoNBGFGyfYDQwnDUrUT1nX3xkym7FyI/s1209/20230729_115824.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2M9kdeoNx4RZ6ZX5zbhHEZjHcJo0jsiwxCn8zxzFjhAWDXeZbFTgK-gjQBxnqEki0HkK21MxzNOc7UHO-RrI1mIR1VcjMhtUjhronDbtEnKP86I8SqdmZF6P7ENCGSuz1YvcFRkihAGp7eNFwYSj8GYQQwm4wcoNBGFGyfYDQwnDUrUT1nX3xkym7FyI/s320/20230729_115824.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigb66WNfkL-rD3BKdz5-T-pLpgxt67CcT3I7BLyp2hOcMf_jmu4wa2IpODXrt18OMYlnc3dZh6e6TwTC2Uzh5ak7mMXJQG29e4cdpyeohIAMJqD6Ypf90L0xScrVo2a3ipBux9oG4pz-inuj9GMVH7KaoluLQdu59uRd3ykhela-P9En7GWh90q8MeYok/s1209/20230729_115914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigb66WNfkL-rD3BKdz5-T-pLpgxt67CcT3I7BLyp2hOcMf_jmu4wa2IpODXrt18OMYlnc3dZh6e6TwTC2Uzh5ak7mMXJQG29e4cdpyeohIAMJqD6Ypf90L0xScrVo2a3ipBux9oG4pz-inuj9GMVH7KaoluLQdu59uRd3ykhela-P9En7GWh90q8MeYok/s320/20230729_115914.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXFGMe1lam05L4Y1PJ2KoY5cItDhmwTpeyDSH794xkrn9R-nuaUhAWOoUvke-PQt1offdUs4qcb6H0NM1tAVtDZko_OR8MSkcNADl1L_pA8E_PAkHIRXB-LyMIie_q9EnmPiqiJDi6nXDFYKdHlAMB-VXQ1jvS7cxxR2Lsf0Df2dI-R8hGLjzLctSP84/s1209/20230729_120046.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxXFGMe1lam05L4Y1PJ2KoY5cItDhmwTpeyDSH794xkrn9R-nuaUhAWOoUvke-PQt1offdUs4qcb6H0NM1tAVtDZko_OR8MSkcNADl1L_pA8E_PAkHIRXB-LyMIie_q9EnmPiqiJDi6nXDFYKdHlAMB-VXQ1jvS7cxxR2Lsf0Df2dI-R8hGLjzLctSP84/s320/20230729_120046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VikjlL32L8biSA26aMyQExPNLsCJb9pjuYxEKn0ALTQr-umfoFKd8yZK7rrJgh-ksNt0GK52EnpfVocIwI1UiP9tIxC1JsEfzfZF2zoAuwvZgQSMh_0fYTB1VS1HTZueXA3JoY_YGyEtOqgGBj6LBni730rGQFGk-e7cIqAYgEF6EeWZe5HvTXGakOE/s1209/20230729_120156.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-VikjlL32L8biSA26aMyQExPNLsCJb9pjuYxEKn0ALTQr-umfoFKd8yZK7rrJgh-ksNt0GK52EnpfVocIwI1UiP9tIxC1JsEfzfZF2zoAuwvZgQSMh_0fYTB1VS1HTZueXA3JoY_YGyEtOqgGBj6LBni730rGQFGk-e7cIqAYgEF6EeWZe5HvTXGakOE/s320/20230729_120156.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dalle finestre ad arco si possono ammirare scorci del ricco giardino etnobotanico</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPSKcEJaJwfj3ccIK7eXgzIfOOjLx482GR1nhUCTH_lMGXyMkzsQGBExpGmA-iVS2QwtWCsGOzZuFPn42btnhZTcyqq477ayWfScOepUb-V96e2kidnh0vbLNT3S93Kvtmc4cgjy3R7a8vFDycJoMrDkSNK6WRodfFl2w1UdjjOz-cxVtT6xvfVmpmYc/s1209/20230729_120228.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPSKcEJaJwfj3ccIK7eXgzIfOOjLx482GR1nhUCTH_lMGXyMkzsQGBExpGmA-iVS2QwtWCsGOzZuFPn42btnhZTcyqq477ayWfScOepUb-V96e2kidnh0vbLNT3S93Kvtmc4cgjy3R7a8vFDycJoMrDkSNK6WRodfFl2w1UdjjOz-cxVtT6xvfVmpmYc/s320/20230729_120228.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQfPVR-hdf4oWSr4c4FVv6_4w9ZNrzNNHBKD-DnQnSvfV2oWyIgs76BzTWGDNlwpaNo9AZfr4J1mSDriEuVnKJCpQ-jRh9uh2Id7V4uUoetmE4qlfjsTS1Aq0Jcsa9kgoDx1aghCjcogDIaYcbdohTVvQmYePSMf_hEQcBsZU9gb83P0M_8mmz5vxT3g/s1209/20230729_120338.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQfPVR-hdf4oWSr4c4FVv6_4w9ZNrzNNHBKD-DnQnSvfV2oWyIgs76BzTWGDNlwpaNo9AZfr4J1mSDriEuVnKJCpQ-jRh9uh2Id7V4uUoetmE4qlfjsTS1Aq0Jcsa9kgoDx1aghCjcogDIaYcbdohTVvQmYePSMf_hEQcBsZU9gb83P0M_8mmz5vxT3g/s320/20230729_120338.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJMdah64BG7Q288SgDccVhsUTPweFxkpVPCDwhm5ljLmXcverdXw3qTkVdReHe4OFKSi5acA89pZ82nu1M1DXaxMKFc-81KknVLY9P5uNtlYEceRYozES-aDwDW9rApSRhikfFNqBKvKPP9kFDtE4YT_h4tCPkn31wmjqD7T2Oz52N9PUGV0XnXmd4GE/s1209/20230729_120450.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJMdah64BG7Q288SgDccVhsUTPweFxkpVPCDwhm5ljLmXcverdXw3qTkVdReHe4OFKSi5acA89pZ82nu1M1DXaxMKFc-81KknVLY9P5uNtlYEceRYozES-aDwDW9rApSRhikfFNqBKvKPP9kFDtE4YT_h4tCPkn31wmjqD7T2Oz52N9PUGV0XnXmd4GE/s320/20230729_120450.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">statuette che rappresentano i due volti dell'esistenza, vita e morte</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5v2a-xgdYlYNF3KrMRfHgMHEhME3RefbUw6tEXwZOt3adh0ZKus95XOoV-cyBoQETdEcQxtzOcBxYPATz0h8jlaRftEsKx5DbmBVR7TunECGgZ7XInL9ESuDEhYYzZwPAkuZvIa3sogs3ggR1_Rc397WGv0M3RXEQFzQOpspIHXeBxgLqyj7ma6G9wc/s1209/20230729_120456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5v2a-xgdYlYNF3KrMRfHgMHEhME3RefbUw6tEXwZOt3adh0ZKus95XOoV-cyBoQETdEcQxtzOcBxYPATz0h8jlaRftEsKx5DbmBVR7TunECGgZ7XInL9ESuDEhYYzZwPAkuZvIa3sogs3ggR1_Rc397WGv0M3RXEQFzQOpspIHXeBxgLqyj7ma6G9wc/s320/20230729_120456.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAKXq6OhuX1NIefUWq3zmZ-SBRu6pZED_MAxKIV2yyD6coMISgiVQmcyZdC9K1EFmJFktbSPV0yrfg4yvvZEHNXLeTiln_thR0N63DM2a7rZQNcqjQZ-XCsxxGL4dZInoKoDx_gguEh5bStZtCqoc-Yp_9rv2d37bury90MNo_LG4hLlu_VGYpxjupO8/s1209/20230729_120530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAKXq6OhuX1NIefUWq3zmZ-SBRu6pZED_MAxKIV2yyD6coMISgiVQmcyZdC9K1EFmJFktbSPV0yrfg4yvvZEHNXLeTiln_thR0N63DM2a7rZQNcqjQZ-XCsxxGL4dZInoKoDx_gguEh5bStZtCqoc-Yp_9rv2d37bury90MNo_LG4hLlu_VGYpxjupO8/s320/20230729_120530.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishACLCDbenRGtoMc7t9oZVjAestXvqjY4GxCtuXvhxnPFRO_yj56Rh9u43Q5c7wFpwM-qbRlzyUub8KlFOQiiG1EgW6faLXf6zQYKamWCDz-DK6zRBibzIELrYAedR1-ua38ZclbF5SoWeL9TsLQwmiqxYt2zyIFBPK5g6knFedTLfmGE1qq_JMrEmD8/s1209/20230729_120549.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEishACLCDbenRGtoMc7t9oZVjAestXvqjY4GxCtuXvhxnPFRO_yj56Rh9u43Q5c7wFpwM-qbRlzyUub8KlFOQiiG1EgW6faLXf6zQYKamWCDz-DK6zRBibzIELrYAedR1-ua38ZclbF5SoWeL9TsLQwmiqxYt2zyIFBPK5g6knFedTLfmGE1qq_JMrEmD8/s320/20230729_120549.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLhS_9Jk2xItv-7CKZAAcQDzomNqOk-uPmW6e77ljZ2xqMjk7qTInC4uqOhJ4NUfBJ4nz1LX_uqVkcz7ythhKcLoNu1vDj9b2G6LMIRsoY_Z_43mqvdnpZ3nltL3Nqn-jpJ4Peb7FxjeXp84-IMuhUrUcX5CnRzqzIgLmI9ag7ENKFswR3JJSS_WSxQw/s1209/20230729_120622.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLhS_9Jk2xItv-7CKZAAcQDzomNqOk-uPmW6e77ljZ2xqMjk7qTInC4uqOhJ4NUfBJ4nz1LX_uqVkcz7ythhKcLoNu1vDj9b2G6LMIRsoY_Z_43mqvdnpZ3nltL3Nqn-jpJ4Peb7FxjeXp84-IMuhUrUcX5CnRzqzIgLmI9ag7ENKFswR3JJSS_WSxQw/s320/20230729_120622.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyoHwLmRyX3G3dn-c9BdHEpkLe3CMnSoEyxWlE_u6RO0quqt7sFg9B67hBrhlfPH6Mv-luv0gTOJ96nET4rlg5DY7rG0D1maUj1Kmzfa6BK9_XdnwkGCK_Y2wtW2oxibR1-Ws1YMadBJ04Ojy0wcJCQ3fnirpqGH4POdrOzOQ4nTdA5AO_fOrliC5MgUE/s1209/20230729_120800.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyoHwLmRyX3G3dn-c9BdHEpkLe3CMnSoEyxWlE_u6RO0quqt7sFg9B67hBrhlfPH6Mv-luv0gTOJ96nET4rlg5DY7rG0D1maUj1Kmzfa6BK9_XdnwkGCK_Y2wtW2oxibR1-Ws1YMadBJ04Ojy0wcJCQ3fnirpqGH4POdrOzOQ4nTdA5AO_fOrliC5MgUE/s320/20230729_120800.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiX-scpckrv3mZ39sWriqMgiHYYCwXDZcmUsU4-ZNd9Fq3Q3IzkFe-LAf5OIkZkhS_gb_T3h0opvBNc3PgAsz_EcHHlHKEiynA3K4p-Usz1FgQtEb944O2Ipe1UmbjhioRIFFr8hIWqs8y6P84yuU0ECGYB7iQXoerBoD0w9T78B4jwzAJuKW5beB_i2E/s1209/20230729_120832.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiX-scpckrv3mZ39sWriqMgiHYYCwXDZcmUsU4-ZNd9Fq3Q3IzkFe-LAf5OIkZkhS_gb_T3h0opvBNc3PgAsz_EcHHlHKEiynA3K4p-Usz1FgQtEb944O2Ipe1UmbjhioRIFFr8hIWqs8y6P84yuU0ECGYB7iQXoerBoD0w9T78B4jwzAJuKW5beB_i2E/s320/20230729_120832.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo0oyvg3cEjP0unXsNyOWfWYOPkQkLzjQb0XTQu6zsVY5pfBXZu1ne5zc5AG4j7ddImSmOX4FbI06N8DnT4Wj6g1Eix4KJqeHpfy7S3eJBCYt1jc5rvsSA9QJIva58RDaO89H7YmjMX091-P6Z2xCbupyPWdJVZRrUlaR_aChO1rWiMtwrTbWwf_JKa80/s1209/20230729_120855.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo0oyvg3cEjP0unXsNyOWfWYOPkQkLzjQb0XTQu6zsVY5pfBXZu1ne5zc5AG4j7ddImSmOX4FbI06N8DnT4Wj6g1Eix4KJqeHpfy7S3eJBCYt1jc5rvsSA9QJIva58RDaO89H7YmjMX091-P6Z2xCbupyPWdJVZRrUlaR_aChO1rWiMtwrTbWwf_JKa80/s320/20230729_120855.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHstus2d0Fs3WSM6ftAdouhREq6w_9ATu8gsPMicx11YZq4TjQ27kWphe8iBfkrOs2p7LRsi93JpFUHKesuCdBUGYeHlPkUQGgTlF5wFLBPef2Vhzv_BZoe1CD0KMmdkIgiP8L2R-ylPgMGstHeo-1TavQkxvefyJAirojPrKQZvqX7UowfasOC171nI/s1209/20230729_120946.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHHstus2d0Fs3WSM6ftAdouhREq6w_9ATu8gsPMicx11YZq4TjQ27kWphe8iBfkrOs2p7LRsi93JpFUHKesuCdBUGYeHlPkUQGgTlF5wFLBPef2Vhzv_BZoe1CD0KMmdkIgiP8L2R-ylPgMGstHeo-1TavQkxvefyJAirojPrKQZvqX7UowfasOC171nI/s320/20230729_120946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il fiore all'occhiello del museo resta comunque il "tesoro mixteco", rinvenuto nella tomba 7 di Monte Alban (che visiteremo domani). Si tratta di una raccolta di gioielli e manufatti preziosi risalenti al XIV secolo, quando i mixtechi riutilizzarono una vecchia tomba zapoteca per seppellire un loro re, insieme ai servi sacrificati in suo onore. Ci sono oggetti di fine fattura in argento, turchesi, corallo, giada, oro, ambra e perle, oltre a ossa intagliate con iscrizioni che narrano miti cosmogonici e storia della città. Su tutto campeggia il cranio umano coperto da un mosaico di turchesi che rappresenta, probabilmente, una divinità dell'oltretomba. L'apertura circolare fa pensare fosse usato per rituali, come una coppa.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7YjCywODuREttYbxBhpx3fJBUcdLGNWWZzT1-L9AT7hVvnF2qHnBxLzKeJXOzr6dLoIBgiL_bXV14gCCG6SonKWsUMnZvke9KleGFfmbt9NW3rxBtD44cNImcQ_ms6Gr__AlJn3GKKViNmQrue1xSM-peHyjFBTEanIdo1pznBNY-IJJUelPnNrefWc/s1209/20230729_121453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU7YjCywODuREttYbxBhpx3fJBUcdLGNWWZzT1-L9AT7hVvnF2qHnBxLzKeJXOzr6dLoIBgiL_bXV14gCCG6SonKWsUMnZvke9KleGFfmbt9NW3rxBtD44cNImcQ_ms6Gr__AlJn3GKKViNmQrue1xSM-peHyjFBTEanIdo1pznBNY-IJJUelPnNrefWc/s320/20230729_121453.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0A1S4dkvVDp1KkTdEH4S7NHRpY1Uqnq25_aOp76M7en4Pp7c4q17EL8TfDM8KOQdqxceZjQStW_oh8WgTWF-UgqNSTean75uvTPYHiKDwh26C573yNNqFxD6pegTh7XfMIHhTqAcN7XbvNzApH7WNeJ_TGMCzl2x6g3czmA1x1K75qhVZqSc5dS9i_8/s1209/20230729_121500.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf0A1S4dkvVDp1KkTdEH4S7NHRpY1Uqnq25_aOp76M7en4Pp7c4q17EL8TfDM8KOQdqxceZjQStW_oh8WgTWF-UgqNSTean75uvTPYHiKDwh26C573yNNqFxD6pegTh7XfMIHhTqAcN7XbvNzApH7WNeJ_TGMCzl2x6g3czmA1x1K75qhVZqSc5dS9i_8/s320/20230729_121500.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNYR4VJm-q-hLENkex2RkSKVHyqifD0I4vSPqNXBTRNBi4CHOkKLQtZAGAhWNWpa1Zf_ykDrwvS8eYWrTARLeS1a2ub-ra4hN_qF6_kmFYpv2kYvPZcm8iz1UQS6dv4IUO1vYLrOogXWUjU9WiM2O7v4nEhA_2jaQHo_ZJRIy6QaMsBbuyAaOVWbVeeQ/s1209/20230729_121714.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNYR4VJm-q-hLENkex2RkSKVHyqifD0I4vSPqNXBTRNBi4CHOkKLQtZAGAhWNWpa1Zf_ykDrwvS8eYWrTARLeS1a2ub-ra4hN_qF6_kmFYpv2kYvPZcm8iz1UQS6dv4IUO1vYLrOogXWUjU9WiM2O7v4nEhA_2jaQHo_ZJRIy6QaMsBbuyAaOVWbVeeQ/s320/20230729_121714.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUn2PkHdpkCcbAr7d7dJFjdovsbohuyKqD4RmwL-GYY_TIl1vjxAq8VQQODGedTn94zj-P1jCl3rEr0ovMe31zJjL7LvQf-zWDcsR4cTA5eFpldb6l7MqpZuUPaSEITaWX_ONr0c2KrnCKqfD8QCcY7M5RC7SIKoSnIB6q4DPE5QCd0hHHYVNgjYH1V-c/s1209/20230729_121721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUn2PkHdpkCcbAr7d7dJFjdovsbohuyKqD4RmwL-GYY_TIl1vjxAq8VQQODGedTn94zj-P1jCl3rEr0ovMe31zJjL7LvQf-zWDcsR4cTA5eFpldb6l7MqpZuUPaSEITaWX_ONr0c2KrnCKqfD8QCcY7M5RC7SIKoSnIB6q4DPE5QCd0hHHYVNgjYH1V-c/s320/20230729_121721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFgjGRg1-oE646zBdzCBO25Oh2FMOUUULtMUnvAZB0D4p8J9-twHBEzPrLuhSNhZJcV_EcbzsxOVwG_ljOiSrvIAtCTPN_o9kqtwk0tawnxjX2_DrSNqc6VKp5QZROyFTuaYL2xtQ9fvQ-_-4hMH8K5ONdTmhx51nd2O4qtzURBZcf3xa5ckWHLZXsaMg/s1209/20230729_121733.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFgjGRg1-oE646zBdzCBO25Oh2FMOUUULtMUnvAZB0D4p8J9-twHBEzPrLuhSNhZJcV_EcbzsxOVwG_ljOiSrvIAtCTPN_o9kqtwk0tawnxjX2_DrSNqc6VKp5QZROyFTuaYL2xtQ9fvQ-_-4hMH8K5ONdTmhx51nd2O4qtzURBZcf3xa5ckWHLZXsaMg/s320/20230729_121733.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyB-x_MDKxkdBxGmWqivPG3lhkTW9i5UH7fU5ryGvU3m_R5rshCC1UOSJJs-Bkj8D6LCHQMXRWLr3fav3IR3cjua-fSxPoPpyYuV_Dl5OUWNKGzaAdeApG8RF7GN_qjths-FQP9MeHVaEj5pKjiMiH7oUYg2ke_K4KPDnDOzoLeLbZl98NfiuKMBxyb1Y/s1209/20230729_121850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyB-x_MDKxkdBxGmWqivPG3lhkTW9i5UH7fU5ryGvU3m_R5rshCC1UOSJJs-Bkj8D6LCHQMXRWLr3fav3IR3cjua-fSxPoPpyYuV_Dl5OUWNKGzaAdeApG8RF7GN_qjths-FQP9MeHVaEj5pKjiMiH7oUYg2ke_K4KPDnDOzoLeLbZl98NfiuKMBxyb1Y/s320/20230729_121850.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx3hEd4lT2kCFywW_jJP5cfQlICjsmihuJMKBglYs_pD1mWqnnGEeAarO4ztzj1mlY2enrRMHGYEzuRIYTP50nmojjjrOni59AfLPV6rmUmIpyZluVaJVMzRX-Zq1Sf_SpXaq9zxVUZ5WRWm1hggvA4VxS4YsoTpy9MFlHpDwbR8BYZ5bnQu3loF6ZRkc/s1209/20230729_122811.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx3hEd4lT2kCFywW_jJP5cfQlICjsmihuJMKBglYs_pD1mWqnnGEeAarO4ztzj1mlY2enrRMHGYEzuRIYTP50nmojjjrOni59AfLPV6rmUmIpyZluVaJVMzRX-Zq1Sf_SpXaq9zxVUZ5WRWm1hggvA4VxS4YsoTpy9MFlHpDwbR8BYZ5bnQu3loF6ZRkc/s320/20230729_122811.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cortes</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMuczpIjTIHk55pc8m5oM6WWFBbD8dgs08FXiRyYCqzflFwme7qgy5cdi0jqFWLQ9KD-_eDWhz7LTnMfKa6pTjrIb7T0_tZ6a2UjDkEIo6xWH5c4nql3JLosaT7gvvTgq8jQYrIxCwyw3avEu1ngSlo8KVyBJetCjy02g4tLuDnltuFWuS6i0QVrfWIqk/s1209/20230729_123009.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMuczpIjTIHk55pc8m5oM6WWFBbD8dgs08FXiRyYCqzflFwme7qgy5cdi0jqFWLQ9KD-_eDWhz7LTnMfKa6pTjrIb7T0_tZ6a2UjDkEIo6xWH5c4nql3JLosaT7gvvTgq8jQYrIxCwyw3avEu1ngSlo8KVyBJetCjy02g4tLuDnltuFWuS6i0QVrfWIqk/s320/20230729_123009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santiago Matamoros (a sinistra) della Reconquista si trasforma in Santiago Mataindios (a destra) </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7fpeN1I5pqfyaYSNnkJy_0XwC8BczFLST1NRDwrnHo40_YbDT-HoOWpuvHJbQWEn5YnNaeRdej0By_0K07vFvtYlj5trc3z80_5tKCc5X4wCucnrWms3MAlEjo-labJ9ndOTEYkjHYfswr1K6vjjuo4zo7ji6D5wlYbekdozWQukkMI5XJCan3Ouy0lY/s1209/20230729_123323.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7fpeN1I5pqfyaYSNnkJy_0XwC8BczFLST1NRDwrnHo40_YbDT-HoOWpuvHJbQWEn5YnNaeRdej0By_0K07vFvtYlj5trc3z80_5tKCc5X4wCucnrWms3MAlEjo-labJ9ndOTEYkjHYfswr1K6vjjuo4zo7ji6D5wlYbekdozWQukkMI5XJCan3Ouy0lY/s320/20230729_123323.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inizialmente in Messico non si usarono crocifissi con la rappresentazione del corpo di Cristo inchiodato, per evitare di far tornare idee di sacrifici umani alle popolazioni locali, come ai bei vecchi tempi. Inoltre la sola croce richiamava la ceiba, l'albero sacro già oggetto di venerazione da parte degli indigeni</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYAGM7f8YvO4XucEpChcyawxVMwHXwXMVHJ0Ts5FqEwptPQ7ojySzjwkCWC0r9Z2p6NxYKYR1DlPf21A-POJdRwF_DHHMOuB7Nh2JZLmZdolCs1n9Yrk2ud7zF6JAYISg20l25t7EtCC6eA916s5MCULusFVIKwkO59GVeYODXU_HhRDPO28-m1-CjlE/s1209/20230729_123816.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYAGM7f8YvO4XucEpChcyawxVMwHXwXMVHJ0Ts5FqEwptPQ7ojySzjwkCWC0r9Z2p6NxYKYR1DlPf21A-POJdRwF_DHHMOuB7Nh2JZLmZdolCs1n9Yrk2ud7zF6JAYISg20l25t7EtCC6eA916s5MCULusFVIKwkO59GVeYODXU_HhRDPO28-m1-CjlE/s320/20230729_123816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD-DMWNhEVEs4pW_BA32uj_dNoavUdBq4KyTMi-A6N9YU7ZbUGHBXgB0MBRNkO3MYRId8bB_ItSVE6CHUTaX0OJmgRyGuvVYO6XCnRYlNmr-xhLiOp6NMXdSwYu3md6mQlCWi81laBntEpUdTdnqvDvQ35qMgZqYqdvFREh8YQjhpiB1acOp7nK01cWuY/s1209/20230729_124425.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD-DMWNhEVEs4pW_BA32uj_dNoavUdBq4KyTMi-A6N9YU7ZbUGHBXgB0MBRNkO3MYRId8bB_ItSVE6CHUTaX0OJmgRyGuvVYO6XCnRYlNmr-xhLiOp6NMXdSwYu3md6mQlCWi81laBntEpUdTdnqvDvQ35qMgZqYqdvFREh8YQjhpiB1acOp7nK01cWuY/s320/20230729_124425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg05PPyrcGO6MfOQdW19VH6ivnPgRRRZX7A83Itx9xYG1Gj-b3GL3cjA_cmOBq-yB72QPyj2vamQ3Sa0ToaZg9yClzIbMKGkm6FMmKO4Drja2CTwsbk6SYqn1frVi8QYArP_3AgVrsXR35dFmAe3E0ldsohMtqBBTJ02gnVsTB7kz6ve7jH-SK1NWTO9ik/s1209/20230729_124806.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg05PPyrcGO6MfOQdW19VH6ivnPgRRRZX7A83Itx9xYG1Gj-b3GL3cjA_cmOBq-yB72QPyj2vamQ3Sa0ToaZg9yClzIbMKGkm6FMmKO4Drja2CTwsbk6SYqn1frVi8QYArP_3AgVrsXR35dFmAe3E0ldsohMtqBBTJ02gnVsTB7kz6ve7jH-SK1NWTO9ik/s320/20230729_124806.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una sala è dedicata a un collettivo artistico di sole donne</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0MzCrOZTFH2LjmkfHOb9g78xuv83962Lia8lZUu1XDNNSsIJRDxB_xKg4z5dHX4mCK5ldNVvGgHQQJwJIvuMmu9ivAmR6eYGeHIPUjN2-nNdYwF_dqZbc4e5tjjoNxi9upAM6unBLCuZWFZ77_wtTZRdGSTYXG0klPChhbLxeb0rT9M7oyGm3XdJ9IUw/s1209/20230729_124819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0MzCrOZTFH2LjmkfHOb9g78xuv83962Lia8lZUu1XDNNSsIJRDxB_xKg4z5dHX4mCK5ldNVvGgHQQJwJIvuMmu9ivAmR6eYGeHIPUjN2-nNdYwF_dqZbc4e5tjjoNxi9upAM6unBLCuZWFZ77_wtTZRdGSTYXG0klPChhbLxeb0rT9M7oyGm3XdJ9IUw/s320/20230729_124819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAnnl5oS9GvLsEGPOyZ0glX-NGF9GhLyZzbtf-Cqc2aV-QbKMnPc3VzKYfuamjVkq1a89B8dDgbbIDS77ku8hoA5dBF2gTAVSrqy805C8zTnNtsvKtsj4DB3PQO7Hz7FHJL3yzuU7f4NDAW9XsxFMoTEBlkcWTdNr-tf0O_BJZ1V5g3jtKROsg3Vg5DEg/s1209/20230729_125255.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAnnl5oS9GvLsEGPOyZ0glX-NGF9GhLyZzbtf-Cqc2aV-QbKMnPc3VzKYfuamjVkq1a89B8dDgbbIDS77ku8hoA5dBF2gTAVSrqy805C8zTnNtsvKtsj4DB3PQO7Hz7FHJL3yzuU7f4NDAW9XsxFMoTEBlkcWTdNr-tf0O_BJZ1V5g3jtKROsg3Vg5DEg/s320/20230729_125255.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">c'è una temporanea dedicata al cane messicano nella storia e nella mitologia</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKJmh6apKviJvRz_oRM4__jvsT4O3-qMN8YBI-dgvpKICIB3YgvLG_dtJRFCs6qKNzcHGvK3_jEmXEObUOXN0jg329_y9rmKevfWCRVpi314oaT1ydSHz3dHxxoGgDxV5U7tnf4bFDW1OBre5OozaUq0Pm5Aa2QSTpDC6ozFLhrDjyYw6xrZ7r_4YqNY/s1209/20230729_125804.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAKJmh6apKviJvRz_oRM4__jvsT4O3-qMN8YBI-dgvpKICIB3YgvLG_dtJRFCs6qKNzcHGvK3_jEmXEObUOXN0jg329_y9rmKevfWCRVpi314oaT1ydSHz3dHxxoGgDxV5U7tnf4bFDW1OBre5OozaUq0Pm5Aa2QSTpDC6ozFLhrDjyYw6xrZ7r_4YqNY/s320/20230729_125804.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">uscendo dal museo si può sbirciare la meravigliosa biblioteca custodita sempre nel monastero</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIEfWDwaOMPiKUdYZ_i6706NHFh5lVnVlDUIfrJQYy6mZMRSBmM-6D_jUBDpw3xZQSaD8AR9rfiS-bgyxVQ-PaBdl58Jbywb8T7wbRcqTYd-GstqOTYad1fxMf7mDY3ErYXbApwBeHZGdmvZAvdNUO34x12ziyG79CnUYaZ5NuQQgRiySuCnxLlod7VMo/s1209/20230729_125929.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIEfWDwaOMPiKUdYZ_i6706NHFh5lVnVlDUIfrJQYy6mZMRSBmM-6D_jUBDpw3xZQSaD8AR9rfiS-bgyxVQ-PaBdl58Jbywb8T7wbRcqTYd-GstqOTYad1fxMf7mDY3ErYXbApwBeHZGdmvZAvdNUO34x12ziyG79CnUYaZ5NuQQgRiySuCnxLlod7VMo/s320/20230729_125929.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4UexyeLcD0rJHgLyznvyAPanUzHi2kaVtpZlCOg7l3o2KXI7NZCGeddSq6t8_0wL2G2dbaOB063R5g4B8WxAtajcW3jeWdRmP-QrLx6eBwOKuAYO55B2zBBSA_DZSu-sP6R6A4YxxRKqZwX5KKhxPvw_FutPvsEfW34XBtMZSBy3esd-ll6f2DOo72B4/s1209/20230729_130112.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4UexyeLcD0rJHgLyznvyAPanUzHi2kaVtpZlCOg7l3o2KXI7NZCGeddSq6t8_0wL2G2dbaOB063R5g4B8WxAtajcW3jeWdRmP-QrLx6eBwOKuAYO55B2zBBSA_DZSu-sP6R6A4YxxRKqZwX5KKhxPvw_FutPvsEfW34XBtMZSBy3esd-ll6f2DOo72B4/s320/20230729_130112.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Usciamo sazi di informazioni e appagati da quanto appreso, e ci troviamo catapultati in una caciare incredibile, proprio sul sagrato della chiesa di San Domenico. Sulle prime pensiamo a un matrimonio, ma, guardando bene i festoni, capiamo che si tratta di una quinceanera! E' la solenne festa dei quindici anni, derivata alla lontana, ma nemmeno troppo, dai riti di passaggio all'età adulta. Si comincia con una messa di ringraziamento in abiti da cerimonia (sono abiti da matrimonio), cui partecipano genitori, parenti, sette damigelle d'onore e sette ciambellani. Dopo la funzione sorelle, cugine e amiche consegnano i regali alla quindicenne, mentre lei lascia il bouquet in offerta alla Madonna. Poi si esce sul sagrato e, almeno qui, ci sono una banda di ottoni e percussioni, ballerine e uomini in maschere tradizionali (anche ben grandi, come fossero sui trampoli), oltre a "sbandieratori" di festoni e palloni celebrativi. Si lanciano caramelle sulla folla danzante, e il padre e i padrini versano alcolici ai presenti, che bevono da piccoli bicchieri in legno appesi al collo. Non mancano fuochi d'artificio e botti. Il corteo prosegue lungo la pedonale, sempre danzando. Poi da lì immagino vadano a festeggiare con le gambe sotto al tavolo a casa o in qualche locale. E' una cosa serissima, comunque! Più che un nostro matrimonio. Anche perchè tutta la folla presente viene coinvolta nella festa, che raduna la piazza e l'andador.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCW6pwJrMsLfVmfzKVuKiZvWkvRwIzd8GWz6p4Fdv2-MjYKduHaD7l2Yk_tM59kWx9BxxgBUt55_I-a7A6upfC6nzt6mkOPrpazx9IRJv5YIxcWCsQGRGkcMDvl9QX6Ur6KMdjKbi7Wq-y5yGYLVlZr6sL5LuLQd_uUNpsMSjryQ5u_gOY5GfXRsUk8-Y/s1209/20230729_130342.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCW6pwJrMsLfVmfzKVuKiZvWkvRwIzd8GWz6p4Fdv2-MjYKduHaD7l2Yk_tM59kWx9BxxgBUt55_I-a7A6upfC6nzt6mkOPrpazx9IRJv5YIxcWCsQGRGkcMDvl9QX6Ur6KMdjKbi7Wq-y5yGYLVlZr6sL5LuLQd_uUNpsMSjryQ5u_gOY5GfXRsUk8-Y/s320/20230729_130342.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3flEWJj_aLH2d7T2W0eYHHqIIZGXQM8m8mAHr984fmCamEgM9TRuY3Mw3ogJxLaWmBB5nUTxv-liDMyUYEHFHzu7XROruh8Y5j4kF_hGRQBCIkEs-WvJJLvILkwvXJKyWDLIL_ePpckUMKWNUw7-mDqv-bjfVZYWF77GHC1YJS6y5SLD2psbzcz0SmSI/s1209/20230729_130346.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3flEWJj_aLH2d7T2W0eYHHqIIZGXQM8m8mAHr984fmCamEgM9TRuY3Mw3ogJxLaWmBB5nUTxv-liDMyUYEHFHzu7XROruh8Y5j4kF_hGRQBCIkEs-WvJJLvILkwvXJKyWDLIL_ePpckUMKWNUw7-mDqv-bjfVZYWF77GHC1YJS6y5SLD2psbzcz0SmSI/s320/20230729_130346.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdCb7-PB2JyD71yxiUlxFOpR_N9sevbyMLPCXZDbnjuN7MQQQDmrxvVLZcibaxzY84j_wgELd3HnxLs6NgCkF4MgEGmbhdbzJYbhDK7tQEdTBBLF_1-MCp4bUMSf0O12NzpUbrBL79GbbwH3xHvXOToE_dx_OiDNBTqfifo8S4sh-MFGcmmm-8RlF8ejI/s1209/20230729_130355.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdCb7-PB2JyD71yxiUlxFOpR_N9sevbyMLPCXZDbnjuN7MQQQDmrxvVLZcibaxzY84j_wgELd3HnxLs6NgCkF4MgEGmbhdbzJYbhDK7tQEdTBBLF_1-MCp4bUMSf0O12NzpUbrBL79GbbwH3xHvXOToE_dx_OiDNBTqfifo8S4sh-MFGcmmm-8RlF8ejI/s320/20230729_130355.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4V89m742odZg55l2NRVgxUj1dd9T6s9LIZppSIdsDMCPlkW885FhPE6XebLpYOliqvjFKw-hNXTSTQWOvEvJg0gXqEIoGq1J7k-6opKQKS6z_GTuHk6et54q2rp9w3L_XlS5JwtT1cGqYnnDPRT0FZOvjIDAckKrmv5pCAl16i-wlSs6rDlDFd9XHNPg/s320/20230729_131034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcGsILcyx3rU5up4P3enl2mfd4e-gl91j6LJh7p-JDMEU0rEakTyBoUbBkRxELdFrtECmHDyTwFvNS_0JbqirxSnbbgz445R3OEKv5GSpBsMRwrV3WJdHO-50aIdFmRw49UF7FW5RrB-yippA4j3VBGr6LtyMzJXwnZz-nXdDP6fmq6PcLLCztqIoaA8/s1209/20230729_131038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBcGsILcyx3rU5up4P3enl2mfd4e-gl91j6LJh7p-JDMEU0rEakTyBoUbBkRxELdFrtECmHDyTwFvNS_0JbqirxSnbbgz445R3OEKv5GSpBsMRwrV3WJdHO-50aIdFmRw49UF7FW5RrB-yippA4j3VBGr6LtyMzJXwnZz-nXdDP6fmq6PcLLCztqIoaA8/s320/20230729_131038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwDXdr3fbXW18mYzkThi-CJxVYyvSLRw8vEMP-AEjv619PF5fafJQ8N2mBuX_n-dgpwamql8YyPAx_uwgmndKg27NpoPDO9oMVSxQE1Jme3f0CE5HAGVi1mp323YxyhWx85908HhisXHfet-dMA1AjdiOthDNzfDKtXOiDfk6ByKqbO8ztj9ihiqRnRuA/s320/20230729_131051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7OgFJ_nU5O_DNIMfNiZ-rfYpfefeBu19QdLbTgJYKGADgx6SKKi1TTn0xfywcI_dcQOvZEybxOb7HOA-HhnC5CnhwTVFcRXcUD2oJpul-Ow8D9h3WawylrOsij9Xxq0oRAv8C6J61KUIN7Wp4DrpdkhNXSDB-S-4FO7pMwMOI1Dr-onnZsbYeCpnF4Bw/s1209/20230729_131058.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7OgFJ_nU5O_DNIMfNiZ-rfYpfefeBu19QdLbTgJYKGADgx6SKKi1TTn0xfywcI_dcQOvZEybxOb7HOA-HhnC5CnhwTVFcRXcUD2oJpul-Ow8D9h3WawylrOsij9Xxq0oRAv8C6J61KUIN7Wp4DrpdkhNXSDB-S-4FO7pMwMOI1Dr-onnZsbYeCpnF4Bw/s320/20230729_131058.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Assistiamo alla cerimonia quasi partecipando, tra applausi, lanci di dolci che ci piovono in testa e una generalizzata allegrezza. Qui sanno come divertirsi! Quando il corteo si allontana, noi proseguiamo verso uno dei numerosi mercati artigianali di gran qualità, dove chi vende è intento, dietro alla bancarella, a produrre le proprie opere, che siano biscotti, ricami, animali di legno dipinti o collane in perline.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTkDax0xVxrMi5XEQ3aXG7SWHNrhCK7qJU7NX35Xedk3bslNpi44LzKPUKn9hlcVIglVQq8XVMW1qKsdAVG6fzEJUqzpsDeuTRnP5_S1fkXzKbrBJMn59NxobefbJaufM7fqQq_eGxjd4__qJfN7MbBv7WLwyXCWLFDqSZh8rlXcuy-U7TIusXTIxXSs/s1209/20230729_131814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTkDax0xVxrMi5XEQ3aXG7SWHNrhCK7qJU7NX35Xedk3bslNpi44LzKPUKn9hlcVIglVQq8XVMW1qKsdAVG6fzEJUqzpsDeuTRnP5_S1fkXzKbrBJMn59NxobefbJaufM7fqQq_eGxjd4__qJfN7MbBv7WLwyXCWLFDqSZh8rlXcuy-U7TIusXTIxXSs/s320/20230729_131814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2jNtSJG7z3t0zEACXM887XAmBySesUIiSlNiH2SJC4sYUQ_9ktpvYhe47JNuvf_GZt6wW2e9CYSEAHFQ5-jUSoiF0RBEwCyucAuIZsajGBZ3W5y8m-5qjNrlEwN0fifcCz2f_uqxVjII6lSTgPn7xjfwdFsNz9rBgL0noR9LlD9ATT271QGEa5CLq7A/s1209/20230729_131829.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2jNtSJG7z3t0zEACXM887XAmBySesUIiSlNiH2SJC4sYUQ_9ktpvYhe47JNuvf_GZt6wW2e9CYSEAHFQ5-jUSoiF0RBEwCyucAuIZsajGBZ3W5y8m-5qjNrlEwN0fifcCz2f_uqxVjII6lSTgPn7xjfwdFsNz9rBgL0noR9LlD9ATT271QGEa5CLq7A/s320/20230729_131829.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxBvVBtI4pA0BMDl4YbDJj8QlryykkVCUhfWDEkUx8icJ4uxXSDEdAyLBRpLKdLiT4lUzZmWeUDjg6VluESgnx2A4I1R1a5YegoC4DSrYwE4T_HjgJmL7-8K5vSQdxSXGIUIbr3APvk1Fw9RuvXerXX3E72gC2mfMHW538nnOL9erSwji-szOTs0C39OE/s1209/20230729_131857.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxBvVBtI4pA0BMDl4YbDJj8QlryykkVCUhfWDEkUx8icJ4uxXSDEdAyLBRpLKdLiT4lUzZmWeUDjg6VluESgnx2A4I1R1a5YegoC4DSrYwE4T_HjgJmL7-8K5vSQdxSXGIUIbr3APvk1Fw9RuvXerXX3E72gC2mfMHW538nnOL9erSwji-szOTs0C39OE/s320/20230729_131857.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZJTL-Zlv4qQDWCmkZulzmEVlyAWqb1V_juwQqJ6lm_MqSIGJFl5HsnnlswOtYdPb2hm1cOSzkUZ8JWpoXFvfWsjRQxuNGTfYMHD7cIc4dkEzutbN8AImzDIslf-2sshZ0Qzf8JP-fxFjDRRa9Kx-5eV1_tGyD9Nec5m1aHUQUutQJgh4DVbH76diGMyY/s1209/20230729_131902.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZJTL-Zlv4qQDWCmkZulzmEVlyAWqb1V_juwQqJ6lm_MqSIGJFl5HsnnlswOtYdPb2hm1cOSzkUZ8JWpoXFvfWsjRQxuNGTfYMHD7cIc4dkEzutbN8AImzDIslf-2sshZ0Qzf8JP-fxFjDRRa9Kx-5eV1_tGyD9Nec5m1aHUQUutQJgh4DVbH76diGMyY/s320/20230729_131902.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRMvEhbq0cWLl-_JSRVwebXZiLX0OB70yyOSyPAfwdckU4v5mz9UqmMpMcEcjE32sP1wVP1nvWqcmR2OVTpxU76-y-_xJZB6tvQR-j9-oyL-VGtSuEIGH-yx7lBKvsYNAb2Gv9pM8axVnWjrukcvK_fawAwEYWcC4GolEHDFQCUJaAk7ZX64ZY6vVRcg/s1209/20230729_132113.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRMvEhbq0cWLl-_JSRVwebXZiLX0OB70yyOSyPAfwdckU4v5mz9UqmMpMcEcjE32sP1wVP1nvWqcmR2OVTpxU76-y-_xJZB6tvQR-j9-oyL-VGtSuEIGH-yx7lBKvsYNAb2Gv9pM8axVnWjrukcvK_fawAwEYWcC4GolEHDFQCUJaAk7ZX64ZY6vVRcg/s320/20230729_132113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMzqvatC4RnpDH9ZkQ_r-G54mA22Us5RYrebTw5m_cPcCcX9QCiu65C_JHgFgSrVeNhPwszqjqSfyXPPR-tY5ootO8Ddn5TRrvu_eiGtu1KbVQPsZcMA4efn6qetP4WP7iONHgN8q_kw1iUnT3-Zw1_7t2ws0NVd-OS4X9CpATJoy9ciSvML6UjnF2IiM/s1209/20230729_132126.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMzqvatC4RnpDH9ZkQ_r-G54mA22Us5RYrebTw5m_cPcCcX9QCiu65C_JHgFgSrVeNhPwszqjqSfyXPPR-tY5ootO8Ddn5TRrvu_eiGtu1KbVQPsZcMA4efn6qetP4WP7iONHgN8q_kw1iUnT3-Zw1_7t2ws0NVd-OS4X9CpATJoy9ciSvML6UjnF2IiM/s320/20230729_132126.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chapulines, cavallette al peperoncino</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Mentre ci riposiamo un attimo, di nuovo in piazza, vengo interpellata da un gruppo di ragazze; la più piccola ha 11 anni, la più grande qualcosa più di venti. Mi dicono subito: "Ciao! Non vogliamo venderti nulla, solo parlare un po'. Siamo studentesse di una scuola di lingue e vogliamo far pratica di inglese conversando con i turisti". Spiego loro che nemmeno io sono parlante nativa inglese, ma ci sto, dai, facciamo due chiacchiere! Hanno una scheda con delle domande: quanti anni ho, di che nazionalità sono, come mai sono qui, se conosco qualcosa dell'Oaxaca, se ho visitato altri posti nello stato, qual è il mio cibo locale preferito... Le stupisco perchè, avendo pedalato nei più reconditi recessi delle più sperse montagne, so tutto delle tradizioni e ormai me la gioco con i local. La conversazione ingrana e ne approfitto per chiedere loro un po' di tutto riguardo alle maschere che ho visto, alle feste, al cibo. Insomma, è come essere tra amici che si raccontano esperienze dopo tanto tempo lontani. Mi chiedono una foto per dimostrare al loro insegnante che hanno interagito davvero, e io faccio altrettanto. E' un momento bello da immortalare.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDmXumhQc-SIqFVDr_6hAIDYcpiMvuTT8b9sQy__JnrYelYJyAf0N8YbJhJPAkZNWoUa6gkS0I-qehuWqS5DyZrvK9d_cSQabhlYgA4-4do7CkT4k-5pE2t-Z8UggxvmkjuIM157i3ZQJzIE9UlB1uGzbQ6OX5b4G39UYUAVaQhTB3U-wp1gqnA1ip_pY/s1210/20230729_134701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDmXumhQc-SIqFVDr_6hAIDYcpiMvuTT8b9sQy__JnrYelYJyAf0N8YbJhJPAkZNWoUa6gkS0I-qehuWqS5DyZrvK9d_cSQabhlYgA4-4do7CkT4k-5pE2t-Z8UggxvmkjuIM157i3ZQJzIE9UlB1uGzbQ6OX5b4G39UYUAVaQhTB3U-wp1gqnA1ip_pY/s320/20230729_134701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>E' ormai pomeriggio. Decidiamo di tornare sui nostri passi verso l'albergo per riposare un po'. Prima di rientrare, però, facciamo una piccola deviazione per ammirare una bellissima chiesa, la Basilica de nuestra senora de la Soledad.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL8YrnK2mciRMOra-7A2BYdYcAGFbjXndyWPM1iGVsQ4G2roK6AMSwUQDM6KkFU5aYJr556Zhxc_UGWvU4Vgey71VClAsprRn6trwC2b93VVF_S1iqlhPIlbKOnoO4DJO7DjlkYYcH63rLU-O1XuUKJcSbK6u8Gkj0oI8fWPAy9zopxTzsphoUwEWzYB0/s1209/20230729_135946.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL8YrnK2mciRMOra-7A2BYdYcAGFbjXndyWPM1iGVsQ4G2roK6AMSwUQDM6KkFU5aYJr556Zhxc_UGWvU4Vgey71VClAsprRn6trwC2b93VVF_S1iqlhPIlbKOnoO4DJO7DjlkYYcH63rLU-O1XuUKJcSbK6u8Gkj0oI8fWPAy9zopxTzsphoUwEWzYB0/s320/20230729_135946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuM8hthj3LiWLgPuAhI2cs-atQhrbbaNB60KExiThJ6kjpOOTy1QuuQtInd1zhXiOJNuY6MwnYlmmsq0Mh2x38gxhpkcWqWkP2TKGiBlt2C0s1X9wnwBw8HgeCx2sXD9ztft_tBO_C_vzLknRoa2XBZSOagw7HlTHjm9yq881VmCB2lAzk_RTI7lOCus/s1209/20230729_140217.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuM8hthj3LiWLgPuAhI2cs-atQhrbbaNB60KExiThJ6kjpOOTy1QuuQtInd1zhXiOJNuY6MwnYlmmsq0Mh2x38gxhpkcWqWkP2TKGiBlt2C0s1X9wnwBw8HgeCx2sXD9ztft_tBO_C_vzLknRoa2XBZSOagw7HlTHjm9yq881VmCB2lAzk_RTI7lOCus/s320/20230729_140217.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mCVUKx6qbN3gBIhaG_XpVHZRWLRmTYwd6Xbk5MJee68POmhKJJzrU1Zj1u9FqWPn7YUGvMFr_P90XVVafT16KUenbVpuSPGil48LFGZE3iucBRQGxtEttFU9lhk-5RxRVQhhI1i6pf89U-1RhuoCnQMf6RJpTuRFMC4Xkx-sktYVRZNG-Ek1ixkome8/s1209/20230729_140442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mCVUKx6qbN3gBIhaG_XpVHZRWLRmTYwd6Xbk5MJee68POmhKJJzrU1Zj1u9FqWPn7YUGvMFr_P90XVVafT16KUenbVpuSPGil48LFGZE3iucBRQGxtEttFU9lhk-5RxRVQhhI1i6pf89U-1RhuoCnQMf6RJpTuRFMC4Xkx-sktYVRZNG-Ek1ixkome8/s320/20230729_140442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOJOWrjN8DT92Cq9xAv_TkeFSwZwUplcYAe0lEAggt1lBG0TkXTEAoPWron33zwU-VSdMIe4iLAQ32iW7vW3Sy6Y9QFwC3pbCbycxqyXZiCjBxwLTYEO5gKrskxH_e1hO8q_sFbKG21D51RIXOTNSOOFNRHMgz1s2ifJhzeli17qSxc0eLmeX6nvvapvI/s1209/20230729_141422.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOJOWrjN8DT92Cq9xAv_TkeFSwZwUplcYAe0lEAggt1lBG0TkXTEAoPWron33zwU-VSdMIe4iLAQ32iW7vW3Sy6Y9QFwC3pbCbycxqyXZiCjBxwLTYEO5gKrskxH_e1hO8q_sFbKG21D51RIXOTNSOOFNRHMgz1s2ifJhzeli17qSxc0eLmeX6nvvapvI/s320/20230729_141422.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicftniG7QgscZVMuy6tlcnjGUQ8NnG5e5SpqPz9erwLBQWyn2KZDjyHTb2HZKENnLn4wqcoiqKsxzTyuz9vNUz7A0iKkow1tjpED_3pQl0uUwYHtUa3AjTL1v4MpnTDQocG879xCSWHnGlpMGv8GOPf2tC0WF2Rhe6N-lHDeRNlgH4gQLWkEk8Yc5myXY/s1209/20230729_141500.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicftniG7QgscZVMuy6tlcnjGUQ8NnG5e5SpqPz9erwLBQWyn2KZDjyHTb2HZKENnLn4wqcoiqKsxzTyuz9vNUz7A0iKkow1tjpED_3pQl0uUwYHtUa3AjTL1v4MpnTDQocG879xCSWHnGlpMGv8GOPf2tC0WF2Rhe6N-lHDeRNlgH4gQLWkEk8Yc5myXY/s320/20230729_141500.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">marimba!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtciJe8lQkCBppbVCcHQsaXM1YLDnvL6inMxYwPFhrjKTfAdNpolo9BZUMu09F1yH_7GKxwCRfi6MfcF-XrVV4y7-3-Fvhy5q9hz3NTGStEZA4bF6qUSCSVnBpQki6J1ZnWxB-WDmvE7ChVHVTmYTr-vzPvJr9IgJHL7k5TIfLXR4yFH7bA-YNu2KwoMY/s1209/20230729_141507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtciJe8lQkCBppbVCcHQsaXM1YLDnvL6inMxYwPFhrjKTfAdNpolo9BZUMu09F1yH_7GKxwCRfi6MfcF-XrVV4y7-3-Fvhy5q9hz3NTGStEZA4bF6qUSCSVnBpQki6J1ZnWxB-WDmvE7ChVHVTmYTr-vzPvJr9IgJHL7k5TIfLXR4yFH7bA-YNu2KwoMY/s320/20230729_141507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La facciata barocca del 1690 si erge imponente sopra a bancarelle e tavolini, mentre l'interno è riccamente decorato. E' in corso una funzione, per cui evitiamo di far troppo i turisti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHpDzx4pq7gKssu75sDbLQGgTQv1g4fVOHAJAfiUwDX5ZkPnkPlFbJapGxJ2pTzAtXMpdeMYo3k-u3iGmaqBO65NbtNdWUOEtl_aLvGlG0Cp5ztLHMSqG4dBdv94TFHd-cTYPNwVHiZIXkRFpJygiHujhB8bGRJpxFq705YK-3yEQ_cAVB3jmZqK82ow/s1209/20230729_141530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHpDzx4pq7gKssu75sDbLQGgTQv1g4fVOHAJAfiUwDX5ZkPnkPlFbJapGxJ2pTzAtXMpdeMYo3k-u3iGmaqBO65NbtNdWUOEtl_aLvGlG0Cp5ztLHMSqG4dBdv94TFHd-cTYPNwVHiZIXkRFpJygiHujhB8bGRJpxFq705YK-3yEQ_cAVB3jmZqK82ow/s320/20230729_141530.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoh_E5cIy8GexrCIlrwwVC9GaVUEwgFPMSKeIcNR4BUXm-tbAxYmRKkPI8JRHkg108cgHQWWgpBorWfpNoI0O_Zqdu1uPHDwrxAdAIupNdvF3r05kM4vO0YS6ihb40F9vlZ-MVk3ssMDuBdchOkk1QmAZa_hNnixymKclGnCzlNoGeX7QYt84EePduLA/s1209/20230729_141554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoh_E5cIy8GexrCIlrwwVC9GaVUEwgFPMSKeIcNR4BUXm-tbAxYmRKkPI8JRHkg108cgHQWWgpBorWfpNoI0O_Zqdu1uPHDwrxAdAIupNdvF3r05kM4vO0YS6ihb40F9vlZ-MVk3ssMDuBdchOkk1QmAZa_hNnixymKclGnCzlNoGeX7QYt84EePduLA/s320/20230729_141554.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ydVraJTN6x8-x9D2O5fP8rk9fC4yftq6gMsp8g8QomWlwwFTdB19nSPvGLRHfzfygZl4cD4EmpoD6h-g-yCv99Q0USYcOMHS_eODdc5gGPrY2lXHUCAW5h2DmAw0ctHbwFAKBk0UGUbNOTd7BQUpgc_0TCAYQt6JUOejlATrKM2zCwGKiBkf3NDDcQo/s1209/20230729_141706.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ydVraJTN6x8-x9D2O5fP8rk9fC4yftq6gMsp8g8QomWlwwFTdB19nSPvGLRHfzfygZl4cD4EmpoD6h-g-yCv99Q0USYcOMHS_eODdc5gGPrY2lXHUCAW5h2DmAw0ctHbwFAKBk0UGUbNOTd7BQUpgc_0TCAYQt6JUOejlATrKM2zCwGKiBkf3NDDcQo/s320/20230729_141706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Inizia a piovere, per cui ci rifugiamo in hotel per qualche momento. Siamo abbastanza provati e dobbiamo recuperare in freschezza, perchè per raggiungere Puebla, nostra prossima meta, dovremo affrontare altre montagne, altri canyon e altra fatica. Intanto studiamo bene le tappe, in modo da esser preparati a quanto la strada ci porrà di fronte.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi decide di non uscire più fino a cena, mentre io friggo dal desiderio di tornare ad assistere allo spettacolo umano che brulica nelle strade e nelle piazze. Torno nello zocalo, che è molto più animato di stamattina. In ogni angolo ci sono spettacoli di musicisti e danzatori. C'è da perdersi tra tanto colore e tanta bellezza! Alcuni sono artisti di strada, altri sono eventi patrocinati dalla città.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gYB0qAUC83IwEQZfQhYt9IRyI5VmkucG-rnzL1s6zyz0NGOJvyrR5R0hc5c48DvTD0Af_4PH5DpGTxMmXMlRhR7z33W2r81iaw3vHwIu9mF3aBW4jpTZOjva5iF0R8X7PZNfXo4AeZjxGC868hypIDCR1WbkOY0eNFj0li2OyN-8j-IlgiRRWsLOO28/s1209/20230729_174039.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gYB0qAUC83IwEQZfQhYt9IRyI5VmkucG-rnzL1s6zyz0NGOJvyrR5R0hc5c48DvTD0Af_4PH5DpGTxMmXMlRhR7z33W2r81iaw3vHwIu9mF3aBW4jpTZOjva5iF0R8X7PZNfXo4AeZjxGC868hypIDCR1WbkOY0eNFj0li2OyN-8j-IlgiRRWsLOO28/s320/20230729_174039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKqk32--iDgLBjNmu3i9FNSxwRFVmsRpwhTO__0s0qoUgt_FcImw_ogOOeafTGsjKU5dd68muCaU39hbpIkKlP7HFKPZPc8rgL2FRY_nVQB78lO_lG9pJTZ_2RfQGfc4sQskwCgjd6q73hZQip3ser3j5DGr2qS0cYlyjiIT2Y9mbAzf8-bIveTm0ROsQ/s1209/20230729_180501.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKqk32--iDgLBjNmu3i9FNSxwRFVmsRpwhTO__0s0qoUgt_FcImw_ogOOeafTGsjKU5dd68muCaU39hbpIkKlP7HFKPZPc8rgL2FRY_nVQB78lO_lG9pJTZ_2RfQGfc4sQskwCgjd6q73hZQip3ser3j5DGr2qS0cYlyjiIT2Y9mbAzf8-bIveTm0ROsQ/s320/20230729_180501.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">palloncini sojuz siluro lanciati dai bimbi chemovelobuco</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKTwjoEk1XmI_dp45WoaO8yDf6HR6RrSDjFYZyI6bTP0rBascvmf1f-ltUM6zORjy9Sxyl0qT05MQbw5t575IDB74hVnJEbor-bHWizXzQh7tU4H7sd9UqRhbpVRfTgEv-CWlGYd0fd1O_WI2jBn773j85xdOEKjylJwEaFmXLnPZl8ri2c57fHVN9Ic/s1209/20230729_180529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKTwjoEk1XmI_dp45WoaO8yDf6HR6RrSDjFYZyI6bTP0rBascvmf1f-ltUM6zORjy9Sxyl0qT05MQbw5t575IDB74hVnJEbor-bHWizXzQh7tU4H7sd9UqRhbpVRfTgEv-CWlGYd0fd1O_WI2jBn773j85xdOEKjylJwEaFmXLnPZl8ri2c57fHVN9Ic/s320/20230729_180529.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPA-_8sj-ppPJ3AGLZn2usquOl_s5Yopw6mRggVanyrNxU7Lk9xPf7iKw24l_xVtTM2qDVpoHed-mwGFc69xQgWFyPrEIcjIFLZ8lu7Usnba6C1Y0x0sbM6JcR5WGwOCdvIlbcj0pY8mwq_LbBCsrqFYcus-fwIYrsRDOv6GId1X-hKOLkOoFVxwZZ_GA/s1209/20230729_184530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPA-_8sj-ppPJ3AGLZn2usquOl_s5Yopw6mRggVanyrNxU7Lk9xPf7iKw24l_xVtTM2qDVpoHed-mwGFc69xQgWFyPrEIcjIFLZ8lu7Usnba6C1Y0x0sbM6JcR5WGwOCdvIlbcj0pY8mwq_LbBCsrqFYcus-fwIYrsRDOv6GId1X-hKOLkOoFVxwZZ_GA/s320/20230729_184530.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_j9XqUKeVa48HVNNdaKmlcVYsqtM1WcXzLBQ_1cR-SxukBF9ZQzm2qu1aUP5R421qQ8gfvK0cFpB0APS_nFRhrkd6GwdCKutdpL_VSUgOz6tnx9hqnL0luTp1Qg7OMlpJNN87GYmpgFbjvTgIkoARRvnmyeq1doejFAh4EqNvWqswDJULFh4up_t7oCE/s1209/20230729_184838.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_j9XqUKeVa48HVNNdaKmlcVYsqtM1WcXzLBQ_1cR-SxukBF9ZQzm2qu1aUP5R421qQ8gfvK0cFpB0APS_nFRhrkd6GwdCKutdpL_VSUgOz6tnx9hqnL0luTp1Qg7OMlpJNN87GYmpgFbjvTgIkoARRvnmyeq1doejFAh4EqNvWqswDJULFh4up_t7oCE/s320/20230729_184838.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">altro concerto di chitarristi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdk876ImpSX0IBYVhFSnLorKGa2N05FMV_yNTmHsx0xr7s2sDizqCHDMz4MhMXmiQ8TwDNKydzHMkIoWtVSUaMEF9Xs5GJ180W8ZVUm7aZAsGAroB5MNAIfJYgsujS7rAba2xdZKxBzo-Pohv14r5GhSJ6GI8iXT6VHXHovMupI6InWjXlc6HPvkWr8E8/s1209/20230729_184915.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdk876ImpSX0IBYVhFSnLorKGa2N05FMV_yNTmHsx0xr7s2sDizqCHDMz4MhMXmiQ8TwDNKydzHMkIoWtVSUaMEF9Xs5GJ180W8ZVUm7aZAsGAroB5MNAIfJYgsujS7rAba2xdZKxBzo-Pohv14r5GhSJ6GI8iXT6VHXHovMupI6InWjXlc6HPvkWr8E8/s320/20230729_184915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Passeggio fin oltre il crepuscolo, tra musica, danze e mercati. Qui mi rendo conto di quella profonda complessità di cui ho parlato all'inizio, mentre mi imbatto in altre quinceanere e feste che non riesco a decifrare, con maschere, orchestra e toritos esplosivi pirotecnici almeno quanto le nubi infiammate dall'ultimo sole.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowGvVJE9aREr6qa9x3toca0FKcNLOWCwsU2QJtxeOG2rCHySJCllJi2MGMdd7muCBOyTK2NycSRJIzfu5151MrmZQZp0-tHUczTwlGyKXqVfD3V-i2xL1Z9esRKsTh58mmVym98iyiC4rXjvTwtPm5aGucjIkLTU3AcFB6E0F9YlSAri4nXLa3GcbzLk/s1209/20230729_184950.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowGvVJE9aREr6qa9x3toca0FKcNLOWCwsU2QJtxeOG2rCHySJCllJi2MGMdd7muCBOyTK2NycSRJIzfu5151MrmZQZp0-tHUczTwlGyKXqVfD3V-i2xL1Z9esRKsTh58mmVym98iyiC4rXjvTwtPm5aGucjIkLTU3AcFB6E0F9YlSAri4nXLa3GcbzLk/s320/20230729_184950.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJy8-yVs0xBac_6Sqq7DHML2gCjYnFlu3Sccuwl64YFoaUuFdAsR0x1ZaqHCq15bpYuQ1LDNJOXFpxJMqoKss9nFlyOKRhfzeusdgdj-fueXSeA-tJiCzwadLux26pS5qIXYcPG9-yjzR2FKONBYBTBmqya2C0FzknQeEDSrc6dF9VXc3Ax04mPygE-IQ/s1209/20230729_191040.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJy8-yVs0xBac_6Sqq7DHML2gCjYnFlu3Sccuwl64YFoaUuFdAsR0x1ZaqHCq15bpYuQ1LDNJOXFpxJMqoKss9nFlyOKRhfzeusdgdj-fueXSeA-tJiCzwadLux26pS5qIXYcPG9-yjzR2FKONBYBTBmqya2C0FzknQeEDSrc6dF9VXc3Ax04mPygE-IQ/s320/20230729_191040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo aver fatto il pieno di questa umanità danzante che infiamma le piazze di musica, mezcal, luci e risate, recupero Gigi e andiamo a cena. Questa volta mi concedo un'insalata con queso oaxaqueno. Mi fa molto ridere, poi, il modo in cui viene scritto ketchup. Catsup. Gud cat sup. Miao. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbQqf-HpdNIA0npru2S3a7de2YgdnrN5hbcxg-69WYvyaN2RZp7VsaRChkaKx0R1aYB1lyXesZxuE_UfGn1xgsAIbiYPIicpO8ts1-Ib1LfIon3S2Nae18aLzdVtW9c1mTnVsssdP32mnkhtk3gPQpXtre4xyjruqnPljKFTr3IbtHHBVTgGQNWMq63s/s1209/20230729_195949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbQqf-HpdNIA0npru2S3a7de2YgdnrN5hbcxg-69WYvyaN2RZp7VsaRChkaKx0R1aYB1lyXesZxuE_UfGn1xgsAIbiYPIicpO8ts1-Ib1LfIon3S2Nae18aLzdVtW9c1mTnVsssdP32mnkhtk3gPQpXtre4xyjruqnPljKFTr3IbtHHBVTgGQNWMq63s/s320/20230729_195949.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQM_16mfoWj71736DY468YcSdRnvpPjLsYA-3cyvoZSzOt1MzigWmD_eTWUuh-vKtJtaOEm24P4pI1ocOt5zd_DaQKeAOHzIl6g1JVP2Dp0B1SKpQY2kHlfe75dCVN5RPLJwuWHO8w31nwMUnrK6XqXSGnlL7OM2Uzr30BJo918wFRrE1XhF6Tg8kaooU/s1209/20230729_195954.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQM_16mfoWj71736DY468YcSdRnvpPjLsYA-3cyvoZSzOt1MzigWmD_eTWUuh-vKtJtaOEm24P4pI1ocOt5zd_DaQKeAOHzIl6g1JVP2Dp0B1SKpQY2kHlfe75dCVN5RPLJwuWHO8w31nwMUnrK6XqXSGnlL7OM2Uzr30BJo918wFRrE1XhF6Tg8kaooU/s320/20230729_195954.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Facciamo anche un salto in banca perchè Gigi deve ritirare contanti e qui qualche contraddizione appare, perchè non è tutto e solo oro ciò che luccica. Anche qui c'è un divario pazzesco tra cittadini benestanti, spesso chiari di pelle, mestizos, elite che passeggia in abiti che richiamano la tradizione ma son freschi di sartoria, e una massa di persone senza forza economica e politica, costituita per lo più da nativi. Sono le donne che vendono quattro semini o due camicette in piazza, i bambini che propongono ai turisti animalitos dipinti e segnalibri in legno. I senzatetto anestetizzati dall'alcol che dormono in strada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuLHMVTXOzGHnGCmS-A7sqY474PT2dC6aoK9ERNhofsxc1wxiV143KN4TWyVSZWJbWx8blIK6Ekvvi9ZIFdjWZwbssZ-A2y7V8QdtspQquwQoZv2LySE80VBEM6HN0OQH-KOyXacHxkeJ5U6tUmSsRIFtD5Ulhk2uD9SbNI-hWjYDqFGSRv5LVh5yMu4/s1209/20230729_202636.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuLHMVTXOzGHnGCmS-A7sqY474PT2dC6aoK9ERNhofsxc1wxiV143KN4TWyVSZWJbWx8blIK6Ekvvi9ZIFdjWZwbssZ-A2y7V8QdtspQquwQoZv2LySE80VBEM6HN0OQH-KOyXacHxkeJ5U6tUmSsRIFtD5Ulhk2uD9SbNI-hWjYDqFGSRv5LVh5yMu4/s320/20230729_202636.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Domani andremo a Monte Alban. Ho già acquistato i biglietti per il colectivo che ci porterà al sito archeologico forse più interessante dell'Oaxaca. Inutile dire che non vedo l'ora di godere di questa nuova meraviglia!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>30/7</div><div>Oaxaca-Monte Alban-Oaxaca</div><div><br /></div><div>Questa mattina la signora delle colazioni ci delizia con enchilladas piccanti (di cui mangio doppia porzione, perchè Gigi non ce la fa col peperoncino di prima mattina), frittata (che gli cedo in cambio) e soliti deliziosi pancake con miele e panna. Nel miele ci sono decine di moscerini annegati, ma me ne accorgo tardi, quando ne avrò già inghiottiti uno sciame sia nel latte sia sui pancake. Pace. Sembra ambra con i fossili dentro.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGD6Fe_nRQG_-RoCdfS-vLmvma-W_2hQnktG68Q5PxhclO6tSzM6-lvsyDVAtnMUsbByJUISUa0hpIoUsTxQ0O0xgun1FshmVZlJAsL5k2bgQOx77gKvz_ToN0D-ekBH2mSaOnfEm1yOKF0PYqxCnnlYrYnCImyt2e9k06pUCAZt_r0eK3ArabgTAaJZg/s1209/20230730_083217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGD6Fe_nRQG_-RoCdfS-vLmvma-W_2hQnktG68Q5PxhclO6tSzM6-lvsyDVAtnMUsbByJUISUa0hpIoUsTxQ0O0xgun1FshmVZlJAsL5k2bgQOx77gKvz_ToN0D-ekBH2mSaOnfEm1yOKF0PYqxCnnlYrYnCImyt2e9k06pUCAZt_r0eK3ArabgTAaJZg/s320/20230730_083217.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il nostro colectivo (modo rapido per raggiungere il sito archeologico di Monte Alban senza infognarsi nei tour guidati) parte alle 10.30, quindi abbiamo tutto il tempo per goderci una passeggiata in centro. I preparativi per una kermesse culinaria fervono accanto alla cattedrale, dove pure le suorine oggi hanno la loro bancarella.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCsXD1toQtDm7tv94osQkNKBDIRX2sWo6XZNkeff5696emn-JnbHgZSlwzG7DQ8A6cZ4n4JkNLF8oDXNU3G1Z7ws6WhnBlCDJ1jz-aGXCilMThBJAf5l7PQK13BAlrxBF0Q_RGmmYTXrhPHI6HfEitAqvQFTBbHYWspqBBh2rxPrwMBHGshDSkwF2Cyno/s1209/20230730_095459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCsXD1toQtDm7tv94osQkNKBDIRX2sWo6XZNkeff5696emn-JnbHgZSlwzG7DQ8A6cZ4n4JkNLF8oDXNU3G1Z7ws6WhnBlCDJ1jz-aGXCilMThBJAf5l7PQK13BAlrxBF0Q_RGmmYTXrhPHI6HfEitAqvQFTBbHYWspqBBh2rxPrwMBHGshDSkwF2Cyno/s320/20230730_095459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPt9RQha5SXKODKSkgar-UsJ9gaKBLmBt9wsvEPAIOD43iNqlVZ6JKKoKMr8YS1hKWIHGYNF-3DEUovcLKvCbTSMYGc6Iutkbrpj3rO6PAUj4TXrD4X6wXFPIsxYb-noxw4xVeVGTI888uO2Kx7bQzWtT5G9sVmlnRHXQ6ecgjmDK-gQDcX_LfvLEVPRY/s1209/20230730_095536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPt9RQha5SXKODKSkgar-UsJ9gaKBLmBt9wsvEPAIOD43iNqlVZ6JKKoKMr8YS1hKWIHGYNF-3DEUovcLKvCbTSMYGc6Iutkbrpj3rO6PAUj4TXrD4X6wXFPIsxYb-noxw4xVeVGTI888uO2Kx7bQzWtT5G9sVmlnRHXQ6ecgjmDK-gQDcX_LfvLEVPRY/s320/20230730_095536.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkhA70XW7-EddLFGttr7hR94fXfbkOU-DOHDcKZ8EWJ_MEQIWkiqq6Q3jD7szNpjgcLsqOjHGqCpIcTfCEQjG0nsfcdhmD5sxu1k9fHmNKwU37MYfwkRC45HK7H8wUSnoehDDIPjfSNM-wX7yG2jgXShYzBY5DWml6RH-PpyuthydqNrip4e07gS-SCg/s1209/20230730_095641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkhA70XW7-EddLFGttr7hR94fXfbkOU-DOHDcKZ8EWJ_MEQIWkiqq6Q3jD7szNpjgcLsqOjHGqCpIcTfCEQjG0nsfcdhmD5sxu1k9fHmNKwU37MYfwkRC45HK7H8wUSnoehDDIPjfSNM-wX7yG2jgXShYzBY5DWml6RH-PpyuthydqNrip4e07gS-SCg/s320/20230730_095641.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La cattedrale è dotata di schermi ad ogni colonna per vedere l'altare anche dalle navate laterali. Altro che megaschermo allo stadio! Chissà se fanno anche la telecronaca stile partita di calcio. Fuori, i muri parlano, e sorreggono.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-XD5KkuIczCL3CmAz383IqatPL_y5H6xB024F9Mmg3Unz1thZV5v8jO9U37__HGVQlQrAtINGabVIdgoX1BsJqVp3gOX0DxlIOu4sCS1HZX7sP9F9F9ZFwfSSBKaPmRqpkvWOGNfhUed7lMaPDvcoheui3Ki_Ns6qnJlQuoxPG8RpIZfxnkRAgfrcS0/s1209/20230730_095804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid-XD5KkuIczCL3CmAz383IqatPL_y5H6xB024F9Mmg3Unz1thZV5v8jO9U37__HGVQlQrAtINGabVIdgoX1BsJqVp3gOX0DxlIOu4sCS1HZX7sP9F9F9ZFwfSSBKaPmRqpkvWOGNfhUed7lMaPDvcoheui3Ki_Ns6qnJlQuoxPG8RpIZfxnkRAgfrcS0/s320/20230730_095804.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABO8m-hDS3TUvnLs2nDzFZirhNYfKDizOTXu9k8kQULNm7CCpozuw8hpfkyXnH8mgsGKQBzGOKxMRse8PS-yMfnZqMS1AggZnzTYy82VhRD_-6SHBy3MO3WpbEd96vk1WwJPQ5dzWo99tODuKN5KPCDZEZrjTW5_maf9FlYmP41qtT5LUby2h-9cE62M/s1209/20230730_100029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABO8m-hDS3TUvnLs2nDzFZirhNYfKDizOTXu9k8kQULNm7CCpozuw8hpfkyXnH8mgsGKQBzGOKxMRse8PS-yMfnZqMS1AggZnzTYy82VhRD_-6SHBy3MO3WpbEd96vk1WwJPQ5dzWo99tODuKN5KPCDZEZrjTW5_maf9FlYmP41qtT5LUby2h-9cE62M/s320/20230730_100029.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ni leyes ni fronteras. Ningun humano es ilegal</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SkMSHiEyonRXa1QdjOZBb906IsFNRqWsEExqO4KgR4WBS4olVtv0y-iE-GtWirtsmcnic0D2oHKgFpsqTCZ4A2dlRPQtlQIWDzjsravHOPp41YPEsOkq5blcCl2Eui4fM9xWxy-mqMEvbaKcORa-UR0gilHFUUios3drN2ab_QeCZwwZo6-J86N2Xtg/s1209/20230730_100446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SkMSHiEyonRXa1QdjOZBb906IsFNRqWsEExqO4KgR4WBS4olVtv0y-iE-GtWirtsmcnic0D2oHKgFpsqTCZ4A2dlRPQtlQIWDzjsravHOPp41YPEsOkq5blcCl2Eui4fM9xWxy-mqMEvbaKcORa-UR0gilHFUUios3drN2ab_QeCZwwZo6-J86N2Xtg/s320/20230730_100446.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Pv0LqzGEysPna8po3ZzwxZFYk5gNKSKZXd8Yx45fo8hZXzHy7ex4suokntHsYdO_LIzIOVhfV29sMgMFJ9PFHYltTG_TKkyvelVCw-fj9TIRKa8UUQ3ZgSmYSJ4iZMSbMC3bLYlQ3EBgWVUD-ENWGmelpJV4eMKfiBTPrk27SkDGsKUy3bJVB_JVmOc/s1209/20230730_104409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Pv0LqzGEysPna8po3ZzwxZFYk5gNKSKZXd8Yx45fo8hZXzHy7ex4suokntHsYdO_LIzIOVhfV29sMgMFJ9PFHYltTG_TKkyvelVCw-fj9TIRKa8UUQ3ZgSmYSJ4iZMSbMC3bLYlQ3EBgWVUD-ENWGmelpJV4eMKfiBTPrk27SkDGsKUy3bJVB_JVmOc/s320/20230730_104409.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">All'ora prefissata ci troviamo alla fermata e ci carichiamo sul colectivo insieme a due coppie di francesi e due numerose famiglie messicane. Oggi è domenica e i siti archeologici sono gratuiti per i local. Infatti bisognerebbe evitare la domenica come giorno di visita, ma sue due mesi e mezzo non sono riuscita sempre a organizzare. Oggi va così. Uscire dalla città è un delirio di traffico, come arrampicarsi sulla stretta e ripida viuzza che conduce alla collina su cui sorge il sito. Ci sono decine di autobus, furgoni, auto, motorini. Sembra che tutti i messicani, 130 milioni che sono, abbiano deciso di concerto di recarsi tutti qui, tutti insieme. C'è da dire che lo spettacolo d'arte di varia umanità vale comunque la pena di essere osservato.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Nel giro di mezz'ora raggiungiamo l'ingresso al sito, che si erge 400m sopra al fondovalle, a quasi 2000m di quota. Qui gli zapotechi hanno spianato la cima di una montagna per costruire, a partire dal 500 a.C. una loro capitale, con templi, piattaforme, abitazioni, osservatorio astronomico e campo di gioco per la palla. Gli zapotechi giunti qui da città vicine intrattenevano rapporti commerciali con gli olmechi, che ne hanno influenzato lo stile.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La fase I della storia del sito va dalla fondazione al 200 a.C. In questo periodo fu spianato il monte e furono costruiti i principali edifici, dando vita ad una città di oltre 10.000 abitanti. I glifi e le date scolpite in questa fase, con un sistema di scrittura basato su punti e linee, fa ipotizzare che le elite di Monte Alban siano state le prime di tutto il Mesoamerica a usare la scrittura e un calendario scritto.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La fase II vede la potenza della città espandersi e dominare una porzione dell'Oaxaca sempre maggiore.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il massimo splendore giunge nella fase III, dal 300 al 700 d.C.: i fianchi delle colline vengono terrazzati, la popolazione raggiunge le 25.000 unità. La struttura sociale è altamente organizzata, governano sacerdoti sotto il cui controllo ricadono gli oltre 200 villaggi delle Valles Centrales. Gli edifici sono intonacati e dipinti di rosso, le oltre 200 tombe riccamente affrescate.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La fase IV (700-950 d.C.) vede la città cadere in rovina, dopo essere stata abbandonata progressivamente. La fase V (950-1521) è povera di eventi; arrivano i mixtechi, riutilizzano alcune tombe (tra cui quella del tesoro visto ieri). Poi arrivano gli spagnoli e il resto è storia nota. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9FIjVYsfw59GmV_lO0LpYm9aDcfbOQi7d0eX8CIwmcX6YVCuRhJ4t16sxoJnPa2ROE62vw1acOWzEl-4tmcCKWbUjJfbCfAcYtEfSioTRnBH47u3JkmrxaTEygt6Cln7VaHfDSIVku6uMnJey77CkzPnDk1Op8ByHWa13LNWghL-BgjoTMG01ZNxffI/s1209/20230730_112206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit9FIjVYsfw59GmV_lO0LpYm9aDcfbOQi7d0eX8CIwmcX6YVCuRhJ4t16sxoJnPa2ROE62vw1acOWzEl-4tmcCKWbUjJfbCfAcYtEfSioTRnBH47u3JkmrxaTEygt6Cln7VaHfDSIVku6uMnJey77CkzPnDk1Op8ByHWa13LNWghL-BgjoTMG01ZNxffI/s320/20230730_112206.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5l_dk8KXBdXheLzFeLta-EG13z-Vt1aH9_Fc0gKhSMTN12DRpXrWl1X4yQp6iFB5CLKtRqkmfYnfhNjp8XqBZQHm5w6ADG1oqBFS_oztX8OXQ_oraFqJ_ce6J1ozaDpHNboWw274TafFmt3VuatpYKQrrLIUWdaWOJ0bULyrivMZScLU0EK0dJu0azC8/s1209/20230730_112700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5l_dk8KXBdXheLzFeLta-EG13z-Vt1aH9_Fc0gKhSMTN12DRpXrWl1X4yQp6iFB5CLKtRqkmfYnfhNjp8XqBZQHm5w6ADG1oqBFS_oztX8OXQ_oraFqJ_ce6J1ozaDpHNboWw274TafFmt3VuatpYKQrrLIUWdaWOJ0bULyrivMZScLU0EK0dJu0azC8/s320/20230730_112700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjirOtAJASK5WiV92ve5bsRPs5M8Zmzn3rSlScMnS1tfGkc-60oxa2yuC4_srbmI8QgpXfobC4hlMHdBPKczTXlLlPMmgyJ3F3I5bVm16vpRg6CvK2q7GKtFlyO1MTaDI_N5sEdVYdAdycCcfbvUi-D-izzt4aNG3nWXI7XXOJHuVXJqZOmYIGtFVso91E/s1209/20230730_113256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjirOtAJASK5WiV92ve5bsRPs5M8Zmzn3rSlScMnS1tfGkc-60oxa2yuC4_srbmI8QgpXfobC4hlMHdBPKczTXlLlPMmgyJ3F3I5bVm16vpRg6CvK2q7GKtFlyO1MTaDI_N5sEdVYdAdycCcfbvUi-D-izzt4aNG3nWXI7XXOJHuVXJqZOmYIGtFVso91E/s320/20230730_113256.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisE273mm_6SeErg9khPmmDqBNAW3_wc8KiLWD6Jf_WnvZWc5Lp77tHJvKGgG3j-G3v5G_G9tQeqt8Br7CDAgPlt8aJR8kDKtJTOM67PFa-uEKglcWWJjVSNZhiYE9XW-JPYenYnRX2omRDQN4kiPaSWsqpdVUIVRLBBngR6X1pvdSnNjjMWNdsL3pnuZ4/s1209/20230730_113300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisE273mm_6SeErg9khPmmDqBNAW3_wc8KiLWD6Jf_WnvZWc5Lp77tHJvKGgG3j-G3v5G_G9tQeqt8Br7CDAgPlt8aJR8kDKtJTOM67PFa-uEKglcWWJjVSNZhiYE9XW-JPYenYnRX2omRDQN4kiPaSWsqpdVUIVRLBBngR6X1pvdSnNjjMWNdsL3pnuZ4/s320/20230730_113300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Appena entrati nel sito si viene subito accolti da un'aria frizzante, alcune tombe e panorami mozzafiato sulle valli circostanti, gravate da nubi cariche di pioggia. Ma il bello deve ancora venire.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3rvBMhtxSVINeKvTaubC2kcYvGk6Y3POVioKdiBrP-zFzGAsZHhYVj8gKe-M1cELhAYPOAZeWYruVSqOVXS25iyczJy5E5FybfO_g-i8JcUmNeE7qg0wPWE9M13c_UABi7wVFKE2Mb0NVcoT3XahBg9bAV1jAO6xVVZaKz_3VnFqIawLmhriS-t3QYQ/s1209/20230730_113306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3rvBMhtxSVINeKvTaubC2kcYvGk6Y3POVioKdiBrP-zFzGAsZHhYVj8gKe-M1cELhAYPOAZeWYruVSqOVXS25iyczJy5E5FybfO_g-i8JcUmNeE7qg0wPWE9M13c_UABi7wVFKE2Mb0NVcoT3XahBg9bAV1jAO6xVVZaKz_3VnFqIawLmhriS-t3QYQ/s320/20230730_113306.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUR9bkt7tkapB-AxD69M5rI7w4abjWH96g-rXugmfkbHrNe-WOSXAepo_3YmUs1RUDTFtjL8ZmGF2cKjgNuJtdB6C6TnCphqgP6YVL6-Onfu5IERgM5AqJqmsrCYH7kevdKmFHQCpXpOWEEcc7XogTUoDaLML1Q8SycbHF2wTuNFVTuJZDlCTst_CK2K4/s1209/20230730_113420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUR9bkt7tkapB-AxD69M5rI7w4abjWH96g-rXugmfkbHrNe-WOSXAepo_3YmUs1RUDTFtjL8ZmGF2cKjgNuJtdB6C6TnCphqgP6YVL6-Onfu5IERgM5AqJqmsrCYH7kevdKmFHQCpXpOWEEcc7XogTUoDaLML1Q8SycbHF2wTuNFVTuJZDlCTst_CK2K4/s320/20230730_113420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo una breve passeggiata ci si trova d'improvviso al centro della Gran plaza, 300mx200m, che è la cima spianata del monte. Su di essa affacciano templi, abitazioni, edifici cerimoniali e amministrativi e i resti di abitazioni private dei governanti. Salendo sulle ripide scalinate della plataforma norte, oltre a vedere da vicino il patio hundido e il templo de las columnas, si può godere di una spettacolare visione d'insieme della spianata tutta orlata di piramidi e gradoni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7UqgB1VssWJWb7UbktDPySQp3zubAUHVte05ljyvwDTrOxWyB_C4Xa7_BPkXRauVTS8pD-_ozBuXDiCYpW-aqllNGDiSKLqjZx-fWa3BV5nvijTraiugZfTmw6xdbiz5VlGU1JIJaRXdMRx9SzUsi-FpOvTx2W8IebsM-14hMOHYVSFEOlRS8cIafRR0/s1209/20230730_114524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7UqgB1VssWJWb7UbktDPySQp3zubAUHVte05ljyvwDTrOxWyB_C4Xa7_BPkXRauVTS8pD-_ozBuXDiCYpW-aqllNGDiSKLqjZx-fWa3BV5nvijTraiugZfTmw6xdbiz5VlGU1JIJaRXdMRx9SzUsi-FpOvTx2W8IebsM-14hMOHYVSFEOlRS8cIafRR0/s320/20230730_114524.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6DsNrUyveZa0X8qUpzceHd5BRdVkyD5ZPKuDOYNfnahLb6B79RC3DSLT9teSYnR3VTb67QMRjMcctxA-Ez-pXVJBSC9z7kBUqIthLELk-IHWX2_d0y-YP745cq7ye-PBLSwA9Op69i8jTrj_yb__GrfT_touLuZjfr7yFk5kpdz9C3lEH_rB4PtM-xI/s1209/20230730_114617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6DsNrUyveZa0X8qUpzceHd5BRdVkyD5ZPKuDOYNfnahLb6B79RC3DSLT9teSYnR3VTb67QMRjMcctxA-Ez-pXVJBSC9z7kBUqIthLELk-IHWX2_d0y-YP745cq7ye-PBLSwA9Op69i8jTrj_yb__GrfT_touLuZjfr7yFk5kpdz9C3lEH_rB4PtM-xI/s320/20230730_114617.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD6p8p9hH-Cb9qKR2yCHMKls9xbLXWsfuid5Lf2khCwVVkWtmQGI7og_Mrti_f4NSnc4qd0vH2LRencdyMdTMAGjpH-udpzR7ZQnPF58y6y-wSZRSwGJ06Bv2iwdiGPZx4wH8K_wgeamSzDFet-PFjbASr7LcY09Vfd54DR-yT97G5BKApddKKF4CZscg/s1209/20230730_115028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD6p8p9hH-Cb9qKR2yCHMKls9xbLXWsfuid5Lf2khCwVVkWtmQGI7og_Mrti_f4NSnc4qd0vH2LRencdyMdTMAGjpH-udpzR7ZQnPF58y6y-wSZRSwGJ06Bv2iwdiGPZx4wH8K_wgeamSzDFet-PFjbASr7LcY09Vfd54DR-yT97G5BKApddKKF4CZscg/s320/20230730_115028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2P0vB1vyHxV4KJYceXFMWFFxe18DA5AI0ihliQF6sQDgu-gcIoE0fVjR-E1UN4mrvj1wPFAI-X0gIzW4RbTsgVxd9rX_n2cMSj7q7wMEecnsNm5CpldXEPrVnd_UP-7rmLMiMprsEGgTDjVX3AyqZXIGDHwhoyTumu_38WAcxnYK9bQHi7FiE_PkDvOc/s1209/20230730_115215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2P0vB1vyHxV4KJYceXFMWFFxe18DA5AI0ihliQF6sQDgu-gcIoE0fVjR-E1UN4mrvj1wPFAI-X0gIzW4RbTsgVxd9rX_n2cMSj7q7wMEecnsNm5CpldXEPrVnd_UP-7rmLMiMprsEGgTDjVX3AyqZXIGDHwhoyTumu_38WAcxnYK9bQHi7FiE_PkDvOc/s320/20230730_115215.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il patio incassato sulla cima della plataforma norte</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJB50ZDaWKG0L3cGOrxj71R8cgYcl5QvaNRCPPuBxrcKirTYDrSagPJZ5S5eQf_UlwaNFnE9oKgEhd4RASK5Yq-d2u2-G9sr3jymb8mt1tGx1n6YNzrpLiryFJ1CddSEqs9YCug5Y6T7zxuF_m4EfgQV2PHfEqKYP8FkdvGu8LWzfZUdziyLBZ-SNtHI/s1209/20230730_115253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJB50ZDaWKG0L3cGOrxj71R8cgYcl5QvaNRCPPuBxrcKirTYDrSagPJZ5S5eQf_UlwaNFnE9oKgEhd4RASK5Yq-d2u2-G9sr3jymb8mt1tGx1n6YNzrpLiryFJ1CddSEqs9YCug5Y6T7zxuF_m4EfgQV2PHfEqKYP8FkdvGu8LWzfZUdziyLBZ-SNtHI/s320/20230730_115253.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">viste della gran plaza dall'alto</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7PtbHiVfAbDqqd5qV4DwFvOWp1erpUsaQQuZBao6zQDleECIKHuFkg7xsfVHesleYoz-mRvXpPS5TSRY9P7uYOQRSpn9b1uQxnCF7olBsj2jIE50r6CRFVA9YzZRM_3UocIGjUEnleCsnCJxWquAslths6JRRZa4shn7um5GJV1U03iS9Zp3KZeFMz0/s1209/20230730_115442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7PtbHiVfAbDqqd5qV4DwFvOWp1erpUsaQQuZBao6zQDleECIKHuFkg7xsfVHesleYoz-mRvXpPS5TSRY9P7uYOQRSpn9b1uQxnCF7olBsj2jIE50r6CRFVA9YzZRM_3UocIGjUEnleCsnCJxWquAslths6JRRZa4shn7um5GJV1U03iS9Zp3KZeFMz0/s320/20230730_115442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxptOa_0OAK9iLgg7Bk4XyzNVfGxsDxmGXqAVTl_4QtnAsgreiNIPd-PgsCzwnivCV9lNWX6SMJ5LLPfGiu1NrQvucw4GanzhgTtLYJuN0W0qCv4LN84jbj4rI_EKbgw11XonNodw8CL48j6FUQXildKUsqSZhQqWt2Ya0TQvbO09VrATpxjkQckaDko/s1209/20230730_115446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxptOa_0OAK9iLgg7Bk4XyzNVfGxsDxmGXqAVTl_4QtnAsgreiNIPd-PgsCzwnivCV9lNWX6SMJ5LLPfGiu1NrQvucw4GanzhgTtLYJuN0W0qCv4LN84jbj4rI_EKbgw11XonNodw8CL48j6FUQXildKUsqSZhQqWt2Ya0TQvbO09VrATpxjkQckaDko/s320/20230730_115446.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqKf3lB2KZW2knU0NxslJ-Vb3wfbeZVU-1CzbCyiMvRv6En0osuhN8eBOG8_YVIan5yGseqdiYp5K_kB5j8yXXjAxgk29x1Uis743Tolh7LBLo4EUBZH39tQMAQn5UZhtCCm3-IXV5iXGeq_yTy-uD-08l70kQpV0qX5CKxnX4-JdGoesexups11Mwzxc/s1209/20230730_115524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqKf3lB2KZW2knU0NxslJ-Vb3wfbeZVU-1CzbCyiMvRv6En0osuhN8eBOG8_YVIan5yGseqdiYp5K_kB5j8yXXjAxgk29x1Uis743Tolh7LBLo4EUBZH39tQMAQn5UZhtCCm3-IXV5iXGeq_yTy-uD-08l70kQpV0qX5CKxnX4-JdGoesexups11Mwzxc/s320/20230730_115524.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">las columnas</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ywrs_Y6huQPAuywXRG1QGej87Re2cA0lzL_EHs0_FrgpscaXowa8gzyXktKc2-wCmD26tmZZpjSuSYCTY2ReMKjrydz_8K1nXI-nzm679Wm1X3duEjP_98xOP1mdW-lmpPQ0JyNKLxTHu_C6eWbQ_NjNSLK0DHL_ED3an_5HBpI5zW6HbmWvQlZtevE/s1209/20230730_115534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ywrs_Y6huQPAuywXRG1QGej87Re2cA0lzL_EHs0_FrgpscaXowa8gzyXktKc2-wCmD26tmZZpjSuSYCTY2ReMKjrydz_8K1nXI-nzm679Wm1X3duEjP_98xOP1mdW-lmpPQ0JyNKLxTHu_C6eWbQ_NjNSLK0DHL_ED3an_5HBpI5zW6HbmWvQlZtevE/s320/20230730_115534.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPzw7o9ErZ-Lup-8w5YoVgcQkkaBb5i6k56vJH64bgIfalq9ixeFroyoPXxxZHxWybp3moSDGcI7ivuLZ3x6oIRO2N8P32koLn9rkYTKYCfUhyQwmdMvcNUz9vaF-yTGwpaNONSCLe2W-KdVnNqnhTQOrdJBp-SZwlQSWPbqRvSzoSH4YLMZBuDwNcOc8/s1209/20230730_120103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5D8VuvJJ9Xg_ZjlJhpgwVXFuoTXOT6rv05QD8FlRi2gGZoXDykFUZ9EhCSzPg0pQgV3HMUW7s71HVwSCpOGnWIrnqRpB7qcBAPwhK54fzGXiNPA2TDuUCkcfURChry2-WlVA0Gk6BB84GZ3PdtsgtPjAHbgnlGMLaEHfmnXn2GC-GjUdpNAb5ib_Fno/s1209/20230730_122734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5D8VuvJJ9Xg_ZjlJhpgwVXFuoTXOT6rv05QD8FlRi2gGZoXDykFUZ9EhCSzPg0pQgV3HMUW7s71HVwSCpOGnWIrnqRpB7qcBAPwhK54fzGXiNPA2TDuUCkcfURChry2-WlVA0Gk6BB84GZ3PdtsgtPjAHbgnlGMLaEHfmnXn2GC-GjUdpNAb5ib_Fno/s320/20230730_122734.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge99P0E6Zm13mWwPthjjcRV3eWVCxxhqhFVsX8IRzNfnoK6vKmNBhgkJvs4ckqgV0r-xafryHOTuHZ2HKGLbVSXC0Ls1zpK1PhsYMiElbgtK2GCOWNXiUl5toQYAWa0Noe5-nWJsMbZr4dpst0SXkpPyrQwHbA4rx3vGinzIqru9HVB3ws0H3MF_x73wc/s1209/20230730_123041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge99P0E6Zm13mWwPthjjcRV3eWVCxxhqhFVsX8IRzNfnoK6vKmNBhgkJvs4ckqgV0r-xafryHOTuHZ2HKGLbVSXC0Ls1zpK1PhsYMiElbgtK2GCOWNXiUl5toQYAWa0Noe5-nWJsMbZr4dpst0SXkpPyrQwHbA4rx3vGinzIqru9HVB3ws0H3MF_x73wc/s320/20230730_123041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver passato degli istanti in cui il tempo si è fermato, tanta è immensa la meraviglia che questo luogo suscita, un temporale ci costringe a trovar riparo sotto ad un albero. Ma abbiamo ilk-way e la pioggia passa in fretta. Torniamo quindi nella gran plaza, superiamo quella che gli archeologi pensano sia una meridiana e raggiungiamo l'edificio de los danzantes.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GZXfgH16NGXXji5JboaemAZx6w96hfCVdRjzpe5H9erHYR3qvVfQ47t3zVhNcjZil5qU4i7HFWJlA5uP4CRazPDDs0jgom7Cigr-6RIPkB7hnDfkrLASXNEz84Z_hyVYawfBo-95-CuaKvLGpcS68QOpIWexqcI6xvQXN6gMWAuLcN3hC_JNqSeVTk4/s1209/20230730_125231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7GZXfgH16NGXXji5JboaemAZx6w96hfCVdRjzpe5H9erHYR3qvVfQ47t3zVhNcjZil5qU4i7HFWJlA5uP4CRazPDDs0jgom7Cigr-6RIPkB7hnDfkrLASXNEz84Z_hyVYawfBo-95-CuaKvLGpcS68QOpIWexqcI6xvQXN6gMWAuLcN3hC_JNqSeVTk4/s320/20230730_125231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GLYBqHTHxuXfTEnNlw74-Y1sH4Hbk2pIGNBLbkhQjd2tTFq4pmnCd6eH75X-_FHevM3V0ZHnTq3FWlc-M9BmfkoWLGpInzXfk0Pnk_FfhXaKMHX5YnukpF3sF5Zyo3EqBaWw9zrww8u2NW47_6y-TbsYC1VJHuWbnb6EF6_PfYS_tDE-2bG7H5LVnTk/s1209/20230730_125704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GLYBqHTHxuXfTEnNlw74-Y1sH4Hbk2pIGNBLbkhQjd2tTFq4pmnCd6eH75X-_FHevM3V0ZHnTq3FWlc-M9BmfkoWLGpInzXfk0Pnk_FfhXaKMHX5YnukpF3sF5Zyo3EqBaWw9zrww8u2NW47_6y-TbsYC1VJHuWbnb6EF6_PfYS_tDE-2bG7H5LVnTk/s320/20230730_125704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRViZzXYGv7rh9nOOAr9csVLm9FMlka8M8HhEocFkxHma1pT-o4lah5GGK55EpAuzqgdlN1YWUkvj7GfUFoLtdJxyY12KAlUz5Yz6fyAt2256cNmxBtfFQFO1GiaLL5EXD_r2xO8xbf2XRyCYw3PggzlAnTpmnkyyLJj7HB585S50LCt1LewE4Mt_xSY/s1209/20230730_130038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRViZzXYGv7rh9nOOAr9csVLm9FMlka8M8HhEocFkxHma1pT-o4lah5GGK55EpAuzqgdlN1YWUkvj7GfUFoLtdJxyY12KAlUz5Yz6fyAt2256cNmxBtfFQFO1GiaLL5EXD_r2xO8xbf2XRyCYw3PggzlAnTpmnkyyLJj7HB585S50LCt1LewE4Mt_xSY/s320/20230730_130038.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDrANQAPBimH4BJKn8SGm_K5Z1KmPMU6JVKAhUDHCpcw7s8EJ9thdCsdaw5baWygcXKUvV8d-5jtwbsaYe6m35SZcEd1uk11iLLXpkVEMD9tBSMemZau3zY3U29iIpdkzmslWKyInd6jZ_CujCZJvPPppB4VdVOv260wO5tKoU75bf6SjfkweJdoggfI/s1209/20230730_130046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDrANQAPBimH4BJKn8SGm_K5Z1KmPMU6JVKAhUDHCpcw7s8EJ9thdCsdaw5baWygcXKUvV8d-5jtwbsaYe6m35SZcEd1uk11iLLXpkVEMD9tBSMemZau3zY3U29iIpdkzmslWKyInd6jZ_CujCZJvPPppB4VdVOv260wO5tKoU75bf6SjfkweJdoggfI/s320/20230730_130046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Queste figure scolpite tra 500 e 100 a.C. raffigurano uomini nudi in pose dinamiche con occhi chiusi, bocca aperta rivolta all'ingiù, segni di castrazione e spesso ferite da cui sgorga sangue. Probabilmente erano i capi dei vicini popoli conquistati, sacrificati e sventrati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcWPfZORUryJMFTwQ3hwiFgOxAO-qUAek0Nby7iHEHFsBc7v0Tg4il9EgFK_AyzJstgiGWGFNm147bobH1EGWgVp7dVQDiOqK7CRvSkEDKLBkqm9YHt8upmt8pGAY3PWuJfuEvus0pS3iU-FuQek8bvE7jelO1yy7pgxy0FVzDSTOrpvZPOMJ-tRLxUjo/s1209/20230730_130049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcWPfZORUryJMFTwQ3hwiFgOxAO-qUAek0Nby7iHEHFsBc7v0Tg4il9EgFK_AyzJstgiGWGFNm147bobH1EGWgVp7dVQDiOqK7CRvSkEDKLBkqm9YHt8upmt8pGAY3PWuJfuEvus0pS3iU-FuQek8bvE7jelO1yy7pgxy0FVzDSTOrpvZPOMJ-tRLxUjo/s320/20230730_130049.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7jPeRcM3vc4k3TR5KuZtYtGLbPIvXqrv0hrdQMxK4L5L1C9l9NeTnkKTS16cSkSymygc940FHqXqRxBE1WYgFXnFYvy0zt0mp5pvFJJ5BmZCtGXHP0jeT3ksVpWCLFMPQAZPLKmrw9DTiMvZTPZm73mvPBDlA1lOMofkN239SGU9NL5uCpw5sqqb3o8/s1209/20230730_130304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7jPeRcM3vc4k3TR5KuZtYtGLbPIvXqrv0hrdQMxK4L5L1C9l9NeTnkKTS16cSkSymygc940FHqXqRxBE1WYgFXnFYvy0zt0mp5pvFJJ5BmZCtGXHP0jeT3ksVpWCLFMPQAZPLKmrw9DTiMvZTPZm73mvPBDlA1lOMofkN239SGU9NL5uCpw5sqqb3o8/s320/20230730_130304.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0gPtqJEAJRNFZAdRpLK8RmsLW3u9Zv13Gk3ohdHZ1gUoPIQXH3DJvNHgFpACT6ClS9ZzRR_kfRrJW9UrJOlEjDfM8K4rPsh9yvR1S4GHz1z1Trr7exlDQk0pZasVkZYf32YNl3TZ5ubVv8TlBNSPJ2Z7IukwFFVH83yw4MMrb2vw_cxDnuNgahYBBvc/s1209/20230730_130325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0gPtqJEAJRNFZAdRpLK8RmsLW3u9Zv13Gk3ohdHZ1gUoPIQXH3DJvNHgFpACT6ClS9ZzRR_kfRrJW9UrJOlEjDfM8K4rPsh9yvR1S4GHz1z1Trr7exlDQk0pZasVkZYf32YNl3TZ5ubVv8TlBNSPJ2Z7IukwFFVH83yw4MMrb2vw_cxDnuNgahYBBvc/s320/20230730_130325.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd-eK-hbcYRhh_id1aBzs13qCJN8YaMyFnY2BzQ7CBOcvkQ9kBxq5Gg3jREXUco-j8bTUo5rfvhhb8r6sDJHPQgw32Jsda4VqmZKEdD5avNg3eZ-asQ0qkz6LLFH8LlD0KGiRG02baR-zPAhugKSA3hp9q0ipElaiNNpCQMernlTydreLPJvFeK0bK0LY/s1209/20230730_130329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd-eK-hbcYRhh_id1aBzs13qCJN8YaMyFnY2BzQ7CBOcvkQ9kBxq5Gg3jREXUco-j8bTUo5rfvhhb8r6sDJHPQgw32Jsda4VqmZKEdD5avNg3eZ-asQ0qkz6LLFH8LlD0KGiRG02baR-zPAhugKSA3hp9q0ipElaiNNpCQMernlTydreLPJvFeK0bK0LY/s320/20230730_130329.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFkQarIEpU8GCrY4HRkTwRoGqqNta7na3qULbawxVcbzM781EaiXh8p2DuwWgG-Otwfh2hlQoR1ktiG2YoZOIpX5XsZWHRCP6P3XIuGkKSgQsVZpbHK1OHnvL_E9p-NMyV7lZA8pLhFnWwzDm3hZjv7pnvKzipj1s4NArDmzKRTlr8zgfrCNCVcgqBvU/s1209/20230730_130956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFkQarIEpU8GCrY4HRkTwRoGqqNta7na3qULbawxVcbzM781EaiXh8p2DuwWgG-Otwfh2hlQoR1ktiG2YoZOIpX5XsZWHRCP6P3XIuGkKSgQsVZpbHK1OHnvL_E9p-NMyV7lZA8pLhFnWwzDm3hZjv7pnvKzipj1s4NArDmzKRTlr8zgfrCNCVcgqBvU/s320/20230730_130956.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dalla plataforma sur, la più alta del sito (40m) si gode di un altro panorama mozzafiato. Già so che domani pagherò tutti questi gradini con un poderoso indolenzimento delle zampe.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmKzHF5_A1x7hiO66TZwJdwo2fdPmi_Hoxl14bEEDm2gmggU7qfErv5Qgn4CZKlv5CkO63t35LYA5dYyvI6A1RNRrpo8YlZfFAgeeUblVsKVfeA_DlIciXBbC8r4GHlDPXbTXZzbTaQ0C-Ui_E0yYo-4vJddN0Usej0bfCtxuJDQDUvvRMdYBv9gX85U/s1209/20230730_131200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmKzHF5_A1x7hiO66TZwJdwo2fdPmi_Hoxl14bEEDm2gmggU7qfErv5Qgn4CZKlv5CkO63t35LYA5dYyvI6A1RNRrpo8YlZfFAgeeUblVsKVfeA_DlIciXBbC8r4GHlDPXbTXZzbTaQ0C-Ui_E0yYo-4vJddN0Usej0bfCtxuJDQDUvvRMdYBv9gX85U/s320/20230730_131200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPakQy2TugabKBD-qcpFI4kH4hwrtdXFcVdU5whU4SgbvOguwLGZ-a8UCoUMU7I2adbhbEjP1zAKRVa7v4k3kuj-qvOaOmvw5kZgFhu6HE-Jj52mZ8tXybL-g7ROXLvq2dCvZ5RO5wUimGxmcgXWCLRaYty-qfZIrHwyqeHgTIZAZoCeqhTXJaiBQgEE/s1209/20230730_131312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPakQy2TugabKBD-qcpFI4kH4hwrtdXFcVdU5whU4SgbvOguwLGZ-a8UCoUMU7I2adbhbEjP1zAKRVa7v4k3kuj-qvOaOmvw5kZgFhu6HE-Jj52mZ8tXybL-g7ROXLvq2dCvZ5RO5wUimGxmcgXWCLRaYty-qfZIrHwyqeHgTIZAZoCeqhTXJaiBQgEE/s320/20230730_131312.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m1nYfXc1s_eeRcSrIdaDA465RKSeXcS1h-ZQOlHD6WmXHEI3I1SPfWoid5ko1rAygKGwdQLO8I9b4IhM6bPZVwNmjFKAz4Po-BTHNeKrcRaHMjb0yV3Nlj7ELoOCCfXlqSqgu0NqHWEvo9YDdlaBYJ8Lak2z8ZSXlomJucC9blqjaFnTYp7a_OdHS1Q/s1209/20230730_131458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m1nYfXc1s_eeRcSrIdaDA465RKSeXcS1h-ZQOlHD6WmXHEI3I1SPfWoid5ko1rAygKGwdQLO8I9b4IhM6bPZVwNmjFKAz4Po-BTHNeKrcRaHMjb0yV3Nlj7ELoOCCfXlqSqgu0NqHWEvo9YDdlaBYJ8Lak2z8ZSXlomJucC9blqjaFnTYp7a_OdHS1Q/s320/20230730_131458.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ripercorriamo la plaza incrociando l'osservatorio astronomico, a forma di punta di freccia e con glifi che narrano la storia della città, e diversi templi maestosi, fino al campo per il juego de la pelota.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVhmd99SpXiF0LocgnEIYPOAPGyXRbdJwGx1KXhDMIVwUpA1oMTGbEGhf2BsFHa4lWoiP8ztGtiJ7Tg0LfKiw6sFZyVuJRJL3LNZDqtbw-AexjFPQvuyTAhpddcW812EF9qxZI4rR-wYY1f2Oge58Qb77DWqfRrHO9q_45oIslMdf3WDOKQUimQtAC70I/s1209/20230730_131934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVhmd99SpXiF0LocgnEIYPOAPGyXRbdJwGx1KXhDMIVwUpA1oMTGbEGhf2BsFHa4lWoiP8ztGtiJ7Tg0LfKiw6sFZyVuJRJL3LNZDqtbw-AexjFPQvuyTAhpddcW812EF9qxZI4rR-wYY1f2Oge58Qb77DWqfRrHO9q_45oIslMdf3WDOKQUimQtAC70I/s320/20230730_131934.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1w1OwGH5o-Z3QTuyhXwDAkNT1ZnHgQLKCyaglxhyKhWNpC3oTmJDdlMIMLxmmpvMpQziVaYXu6QVoYcIoOprJapKMFvyZzH0H8Gm8qx5Ny4IdR6dA4FFFUV9a7kqGSJOG6VyysLoDbHDaYpu8UR4Vr3geZta-bKps2sQLLagDCc3BOTzV-s_gHBXoOSs/s1209/20230730_131955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1w1OwGH5o-Z3QTuyhXwDAkNT1ZnHgQLKCyaglxhyKhWNpC3oTmJDdlMIMLxmmpvMpQziVaYXu6QVoYcIoOprJapKMFvyZzH0H8Gm8qx5Ny4IdR6dA4FFFUV9a7kqGSJOG6VyysLoDbHDaYpu8UR4Vr3geZta-bKps2sQLLagDCc3BOTzV-s_gHBXoOSs/s320/20230730_131955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWG72FhmlTnbCsDqKqIWw5UUehUhzl5RpMnFQ64qU78fRY38RS0ZmW3oJLaxXUIwHHnd07o7QmLRt9UJ8HrQBW7Pf9yzSgzcxQuLDQJfkY1SQ0pjM1I2IVjzGmequ68PhQFNdF2qiagUpXbXtkp5kHjAicYtfrMpJIIS6LyKecwpOtM3cxcAzb0MW7WKM/s1209/20230730_132024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWG72FhmlTnbCsDqKqIWw5UUehUhzl5RpMnFQ64qU78fRY38RS0ZmW3oJLaxXUIwHHnd07o7QmLRt9UJ8HrQBW7Pf9yzSgzcxQuLDQJfkY1SQ0pjM1I2IVjzGmequ68PhQFNdF2qiagUpXbXtkp5kHjAicYtfrMpJIIS6LyKecwpOtM3cxcAzb0MW7WKM/s320/20230730_132024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_sPoimbM4CSbRlvd2-bdRvXH0A4wrYcUINRW1Kl-k9DS2p2-Tz2onMQhP74VpuWtKKM7K3TFeo6uX9_Y5UyOxRO0_urW75AGlzlamDbuwNpjl65tpfVx44KKBfIyGU8b1JStr_KP3OS_5yOVPODAq_0OohYJbKIIYFdYGgA6G9kNqozcNGgf3IXF-4k/s1209/20230730_132207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_sPoimbM4CSbRlvd2-bdRvXH0A4wrYcUINRW1Kl-k9DS2p2-Tz2onMQhP74VpuWtKKM7K3TFeo6uX9_Y5UyOxRO0_urW75AGlzlamDbuwNpjl65tpfVx44KKBfIyGU8b1JStr_KP3OS_5yOVPODAq_0OohYJbKIIYFdYGgA6G9kNqozcNGgf3IXF-4k/s320/20230730_132207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzhfmA8Og0KgWgfZb7iuXHOzjtGl0JTnhScHX3RoDrI9SNegc4qde7z-jQgOfsYJdceZFq9WFVCUIRa319u58-Vi1BO-4yKjghwd74_m7B06Vr5VVnuNiRWr-6nDa0Qpm6KMkQ1AaJiK1bJLXqohF-NgHj_jw-5NIHytSN7WE2cKV-0sHTZ9-PymtS_h4/s979/20230730_132228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzhfmA8Og0KgWgfZb7iuXHOzjtGl0JTnhScHX3RoDrI9SNegc4qde7z-jQgOfsYJdceZFq9WFVCUIRa319u58-Vi1BO-4yKjghwd74_m7B06Vr5VVnuNiRWr-6nDa0Qpm6KMkQ1AaJiK1bJLXqohF-NgHj_jw-5NIHytSN7WE2cKV-0sHTZ9-PymtS_h4/s320/20230730_132228.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di uscire, facciamo un salto nel museo del sito, dove sono conservati los danzantes originali e alcuni reperti trovati nelle tombe. Di grande interesse i crani che testimoniano le deformazioni rituali e anche la pratica chirurgica delle perforazioni. Erano anche frequenti mutilazioni dentali a fini estetici (mah).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoHeRN5dfcd27kbd6H_ty0-882VUpRmU2TIsemyM5_Sh39NkK55ZeXa_OvnxsrH8WyKzlhVjCDTy5qm7Zh_o88mXJZJ7D5nYCKMPyAe2goXVaYDbZzTeYW_IQBysFbdfVyvDCZpoQrv2WSrbRs9teFlAN4-Oci7-IuK3KythWlXZQtNxjNyW4Ef5UJYwE/s1209/20230730_133053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoHeRN5dfcd27kbd6H_ty0-882VUpRmU2TIsemyM5_Sh39NkK55ZeXa_OvnxsrH8WyKzlhVjCDTy5qm7Zh_o88mXJZJ7D5nYCKMPyAe2goXVaYDbZzTeYW_IQBysFbdfVyvDCZpoQrv2WSrbRs9teFlAN4-Oci7-IuK3KythWlXZQtNxjNyW4Ef5UJYwE/s320/20230730_133053.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFukqrC6DB_TebEjZJxLlQ5qgfiGjvWEajtp6Kn1k_01Wb6eQ0rsAVvuEvMAdS-MtRwxHlGVg2KIO2GhDVVfnNEQYbNUpDR99g0gCNVrj8I0kRqwR4f1rxcekETBAb78mEq4u3AjIZphqTxUvNFQ-YsqN4hoSomcChuypyIpsYuwKmyLT3bPNJ4K7aEZA/s1209/20230730_133142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFukqrC6DB_TebEjZJxLlQ5qgfiGjvWEajtp6Kn1k_01Wb6eQ0rsAVvuEvMAdS-MtRwxHlGVg2KIO2GhDVVfnNEQYbNUpDR99g0gCNVrj8I0kRqwR4f1rxcekETBAb78mEq4u3AjIZphqTxUvNFQ-YsqN4hoSomcChuypyIpsYuwKmyLT3bPNJ4K7aEZA/s320/20230730_133142.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglCgMlaJteJvHlE5OG7pzopmDePG4ARpfU4P_mjv_Ua5c8JPdF1jasymWOkX0xnBJNQWMq1eOL_tgUyAyXrhTY8duwhSSUmA3Xp69fURg-vtb0M6dSFHVXVvzcDYPbOtB7Tcd6h2iB6YBKE70UE8EJs4-DskaWxkLNAGNepfMXgzarg1x0zOEfhoMpXTM/s1209/20230730_133258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglCgMlaJteJvHlE5OG7pzopmDePG4ARpfU4P_mjv_Ua5c8JPdF1jasymWOkX0xnBJNQWMq1eOL_tgUyAyXrhTY8duwhSSUmA3Xp69fURg-vtb0M6dSFHVXVvzcDYPbOtB7Tcd6h2iB6YBKE70UE8EJs4-DskaWxkLNAGNepfMXgzarg1x0zOEfhoMpXTM/s320/20230730_133258.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeE-mKnhadkdhfGgcbaAXAT-uy8TJXOXQq7HT9cnWJacaf-9SvI6prONyw334TsHRzI-B0BHRaMdleKO0EzFpJ5uh0IW52L3EAVCDS_cvrdaWpfKAKQM5OjZog0WPhv_0NndDT37alwQfTeC7at5UXgm4j5yC9x2SzyFV_KMHxN6s2dWrOXArh9si1zo/s1209/20230730_133724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeE-mKnhadkdhfGgcbaAXAT-uy8TJXOXQq7HT9cnWJacaf-9SvI6prONyw334TsHRzI-B0BHRaMdleKO0EzFpJ5uh0IW52L3EAVCDS_cvrdaWpfKAKQM5OjZog0WPhv_0NndDT37alwQfTeC7at5UXgm4j5yC9x2SzyFV_KMHxN6s2dWrOXArh9si1zo/s320/20230730_133724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jeA0miW8M79CqRaoNVr8QJBGWio6QT_h6LWSCMV2wcjBUkbora_x9rs6D463juf6ACGIRxa73pWH3kYCEk0CWkN-qO2A_BtCVZDNojaePOXPQ0-fRJzI9hqN_cZU611ffy2tblO3RSuLrzvx1J1lzIoMq3CNXeJSI2DMTnPM28nzMj4teZwXl21Bz-A/s1209/20230730_133734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jeA0miW8M79CqRaoNVr8QJBGWio6QT_h6LWSCMV2wcjBUkbora_x9rs6D463juf6ACGIRxa73pWH3kYCEk0CWkN-qO2A_BtCVZDNojaePOXPQ0-fRJzI9hqN_cZU611ffy2tblO3RSuLrzvx1J1lzIoMq3CNXeJSI2DMTnPM28nzMj4teZwXl21Bz-A/s320/20230730_133734.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1ogBZZGwpTT8nefMu31fxZoGfnrhYb5y53LVGbeXjT8O41E6ND76XOTQLJ9ji4MtGnW1anK9tTejGOzuvmRcvU1x38Ccv9KOWML7rBAKJ9T6c9D_XDfCSi1QEzeoFY7wKyUpZ4d8C9yxSSSpmI1Lmcuy2ljIdTNRwgYRcTcloCTk3KlbBhDbf6-f5fI/s1209/20230730_133825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1ogBZZGwpTT8nefMu31fxZoGfnrhYb5y53LVGbeXjT8O41E6ND76XOTQLJ9ji4MtGnW1anK9tTejGOzuvmRcvU1x38Ccv9KOWML7rBAKJ9T6c9D_XDfCSi1QEzeoFY7wKyUpZ4d8C9yxSSSpmI1Lmcuy2ljIdTNRwgYRcTcloCTk3KlbBhDbf6-f5fI/s320/20230730_133825.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finita la visita torniamo in città e Gigi si fiocina un kilo di torta tres leches, già apprezzata in Perù lo scorso anno. Piove, ma noi siamo al riparo sotto ai portici dello zocalo. Accanto a noi i suonatori di marimba si esibiscono, facendo danzare i passanti. Perchè si balla anche con il temporale, non sia mai!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUw60J3l3n3q6MJH0BT9ZdXQtQxssmrgnGPnsK5ZudQKG34tTEiPCZ8QdcP2DvmTRxGSj8RPbV5i4ejb-PnheaKHVl8m7Q7o83rSgArAye6abkUsgJrgXypXj5HW9_HS1yIiD0II4I59XlXXsbj5EuvbSBMLSfpm-ZhT3dSqdeXcY3TibdPgRC0DtDAM/s1209/20230730_145418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUw60J3l3n3q6MJH0BT9ZdXQtQxssmrgnGPnsK5ZudQKG34tTEiPCZ8QdcP2DvmTRxGSj8RPbV5i4ejb-PnheaKHVl8m7Q7o83rSgArAye6abkUsgJrgXypXj5HW9_HS1yIiD0II4I59XlXXsbj5EuvbSBMLSfpm-ZhT3dSqdeXcY3TibdPgRC0DtDAM/s320/20230730_145418.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG7J5iXSUlDduL7PL_NkrWSFFOLRoiT6ToRqtX69johAsxiy4mqsSGglcNH8SnF7FVhNbNPc5ZzO-UEqsCeDzH1XeT02Z84f-66_PHIJ5gBlc6kDBE9TaOxeKsgPDenYDYLw0LErDd4tA3LGZvcGQ9PhtKNwgwNc7dRDALFtGmmrBFJrlAiUWWEa8HMY/s1209/20230730_151541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG7J5iXSUlDduL7PL_NkrWSFFOLRoiT6ToRqtX69johAsxiy4mqsSGglcNH8SnF7FVhNbNPc5ZzO-UEqsCeDzH1XeT02Z84f-66_PHIJ5gBlc6kDBE9TaOxeKsgPDenYDYLw0LErDd4tA3LGZvcGQ9PhtKNwgwNc7dRDALFtGmmrBFJrlAiUWWEa8HMY/s320/20230730_151541.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdvKSTJI2Sps_h8K9YgDj7JE-NoWD0iApb4It9Xnh7ep9UDPBb9Mr5X63zFV7WhyY1YQRejn0Xr2oIsigpsXpnJBzz2kNEQebrVi2ZT4UVyNsLUox0PFXQCh9C8GicpcTo9kZzvFlYQQ1PFUx18WYkfd4613u2O3-uLrm8Bi7_NrgHCtkxKRsnAbKzbZs/s1209/20230730_151646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdvKSTJI2Sps_h8K9YgDj7JE-NoWD0iApb4It9Xnh7ep9UDPBb9Mr5X63zFV7WhyY1YQRejn0Xr2oIsigpsXpnJBzz2kNEQebrVi2ZT4UVyNsLUox0PFXQCh9C8GicpcTo9kZzvFlYQQ1PFUx18WYkfd4613u2O3-uLrm8Bi7_NrgHCtkxKRsnAbKzbZs/s320/20230730_151646.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrS3-fvL_LdzSRcZHMzOLYZrSIGxi-418YwCVaPXgXMA1L5y5pO4Sg3BhWKru1Djmi8XE2ZscAii5qlYDs5GYcl0vCG02Z2RiXdqy2QGwd7tymYmzDQf4GbWrAs_cXXj-JWWEVDud27wOj8fK-VJGHySMHJ__Empl2WvDoZWBcjE-u-DUurz0EzxxiP5Y/s1209/20230730_151647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrS3-fvL_LdzSRcZHMzOLYZrSIGxi-418YwCVaPXgXMA1L5y5pO4Sg3BhWKru1Djmi8XE2ZscAii5qlYDs5GYcl0vCG02Z2RiXdqy2QGwd7tymYmzDQf4GbWrAs_cXXj-JWWEVDud27wOj8fK-VJGHySMHJ__Empl2WvDoZWBcjE-u-DUurz0EzxxiP5Y/s320/20230730_151647.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Prima di rientrare passeggiamo di nuovo fra i mercati, che sono sempre un cuore pulsante di vita in tutte le città messicane finora visitate. Mi faccio anche un regalino!<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqfwLmFgj9ilnDvghOGtcic5ZU2glsJlUzgmykaq7vtyS0lvtfTMUsU3TPRLeph5pW4XsrUhhse86LCAg6elELm6qvqj4ROFpjwx8gluEo25jyRXzh9qweoygm77rOT728jI-aZ_TIY3apPOAWeE9JQFPlhdVp0o6Y1RjzWkbvEPsUYr7bX4NI1l20bA/s1209/20230730_152445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqfwLmFgj9ilnDvghOGtcic5ZU2glsJlUzgmykaq7vtyS0lvtfTMUsU3TPRLeph5pW4XsrUhhse86LCAg6elELm6qvqj4ROFpjwx8gluEo25jyRXzh9qweoygm77rOT728jI-aZ_TIY3apPOAWeE9JQFPlhdVp0o6Y1RjzWkbvEPsUYr7bX4NI1l20bA/s320/20230730_152445.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXw-U9BvXGGGNupkcOryMl7yvUpMTzxoUhNpD1JFRrSINNy3ismBK6gigBK54E0CgtSVLZ5jSOz0CDYwm3-LW5P67sp1fLKA65Il42ja0dGoOKpEoT-fp6D1y2w1IGEQ4D7ICCJUyx_G_tmqTrB7r6TW2B4Mb249G4yyqz6jK7smAxMaCaX7xd1kvwHc/s1209/20230730_155928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXw-U9BvXGGGNupkcOryMl7yvUpMTzxoUhNpD1JFRrSINNy3ismBK6gigBK54E0CgtSVLZ5jSOz0CDYwm3-LW5P67sp1fLKA65Il42ja0dGoOKpEoT-fp6D1y2w1IGEQ4D7ICCJUyx_G_tmqTrB7r6TW2B4Mb249G4yyqz6jK7smAxMaCaX7xd1kvwHc/s320/20230730_155928.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo un po' di riposo in hotel usciamo a cena, e questa è la faccia di Gigi che scopre quanto sia grande una pizza mediana in un locale messicano frequentato solo da messicani, alcuni già ubriachi, altri quasi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaFwbIKchwBgXQtF46m5SfNw-nOx-D0I3S3yrZSvrUZaBhI5rrIOkG4t4zxbVEUKaru1oxjxs8qtz4-Qno18Qnjh-hzDQUp1CCOMWd4LSJ1gp0LkNnIw3tFhA1Is7s5DkJWJTKfOSg4JyMjP9uN02-tFTFU1w80zUxLZjBOByfTJG5IiTrYW7N1ZMr9x8/s1209/20230730_193727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaFwbIKchwBgXQtF46m5SfNw-nOx-D0I3S3yrZSvrUZaBhI5rrIOkG4t4zxbVEUKaru1oxjxs8qtz4-Qno18Qnjh-hzDQUp1CCOMWd4LSJ1gp0LkNnIw3tFhA1Is7s5DkJWJTKfOSg4JyMjP9uN02-tFTFU1w80zUxLZjBOByfTJG5IiTrYW7N1ZMr9x8/s320/20230730_193727.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Domani lasceremo la città e pedaleremo l'ultima tappa nello stato di Oaxaca. Ci aspettano 118km con annessa salita a 2300m, per entrare in un canyon che è pure riserva naturale e si prospetta spettacolare ma pure tosto. Dopodomani entreremo nello stato di Puebla, dove pedaleremo tre giorni prima di raggiungerne l'omonima capitale. E Città del Messico è sempre più vicina!<br /><div><br /></div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-8608852763925530602023-07-28T07:11:00.003+02:002023-07-28T07:11:46.060+02:0034-36. "Para todo mal, mezcal. Para todo bien, también". Sierra sur: montagne, "bandidos" e pellegrini in bicicletta <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIz_AGzpnYzPx3hELdwN7O4OMqoUPlXrT3bM0xRwXpNKCNdM-5DSa1er7F5cNJb2RFp0dCJQa3JDqiN5ANZ7ho86IgKWpt7THuzsudmDMRqu46IqNN2VH1oO50NTfLzntfmAOCQUXtm6Ska_qjV84qVO1l_oyKwgT_nKhUq3H5N22Y52XzhQkqo3xjNBw/s1209/20230725_143200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIz_AGzpnYzPx3hELdwN7O4OMqoUPlXrT3bM0xRwXpNKCNdM-5DSa1er7F5cNJb2RFp0dCJQa3JDqiN5ANZ7ho86IgKWpt7THuzsudmDMRqu46IqNN2VH1oO50NTfLzntfmAOCQUXtm6Ska_qjV84qVO1l_oyKwgT_nKhUq3H5N22Y52XzhQkqo3xjNBw/w640-h480/20230725_143200.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguNb4XTzZoYqz2ekj_0lk8jIU-pc2oEjwQFGoKaOibAOF-pStpCuZ4mpgBDg7BommdpZ4mREXpKAIW3eSXMJk9UJhfN8pGkUKwDNE4tdaeaV5U2WMXQ0Amp2iOEXfqBtokmaKz7734hy96ZUCKiEWfWvO0ItrOsLTkZuzbf3NDL2WbiFv_vtzrsoLCP-Q/s1209/20230726_143255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguNb4XTzZoYqz2ekj_0lk8jIU-pc2oEjwQFGoKaOibAOF-pStpCuZ4mpgBDg7BommdpZ4mREXpKAIW3eSXMJk9UJhfN8pGkUKwDNE4tdaeaV5U2WMXQ0Amp2iOEXfqBtokmaKz7734hy96ZUCKiEWfWvO0ItrOsLTkZuzbf3NDL2WbiFv_vtzrsoLCP-Q/w640-h480/20230726_143255.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOM6FYqGY1mRn7gv9nf8xxC8Ryab5VW524xOwsIutq7KywHY2jcNwHZZobTXlCRq4FZT0ykUDiMhiPYDU9HstcxJXHYV2uTomrEfnwUssoAZaeyNNPP0AVy8Ok4QcMb_yhOiZDdgJiOORILQzbaCPuvBkO5KeixFsbzmFjO7drEK3Q42PFYqYY_RhKXA/s1209/20230726_115224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOM6FYqGY1mRn7gv9nf8xxC8Ryab5VW524xOwsIutq7KywHY2jcNwHZZobTXlCRq4FZT0ykUDiMhiPYDU9HstcxJXHYV2uTomrEfnwUssoAZaeyNNPP0AVy8Ok4QcMb_yhOiZDdgJiOORILQzbaCPuvBkO5KeixFsbzmFjO7drEK3Q42PFYqYY_RhKXA/w640-h480/20230726_115224.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgsyyLV_7c5hHpEpdcHc1oWoTuEfmXhhlHcfhZk16joGayZy8Is9cr7WX7P5lX4V7r1zXyQpctsOyz7EUr0Gv_jN5yxiGwU0O1Zcb9kpvHgEIFGFSytG5lZexHEfiNxIMbGy2XSbe9txCZ7AmF7SPXg-3OsxbxVGkPVYGfyXVZN-azeCbVQOSM23L0EqE/s1209/20230726_124335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgsyyLV_7c5hHpEpdcHc1oWoTuEfmXhhlHcfhZk16joGayZy8Is9cr7WX7P5lX4V7r1zXyQpctsOyz7EUr0Gv_jN5yxiGwU0O1Zcb9kpvHgEIFGFSytG5lZexHEfiNxIMbGy2XSbe9txCZ7AmF7SPXg-3OsxbxVGkPVYGfyXVZN-azeCbVQOSM23L0EqE/w640-h480/20230726_124335.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6D_Gh79eswpb97MiKZzsNVZvExYSLr-ny2y9F6jLz29-280eb4F6dpeYBHDGSrU5OJIsYwYDt2-cXvOLUkg27zBZG6-p0JwR7-wvc_yOxp5q3tGbMwA3OPt6oQBa_ejI4b2o9LBHBdE2NVdIBPORgF2FF1YqjlwJqihiAQYhRjc6RBPa8F3DV6yh52xQ/s1209/20230726_141626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6D_Gh79eswpb97MiKZzsNVZvExYSLr-ny2y9F6jLz29-280eb4F6dpeYBHDGSrU5OJIsYwYDt2-cXvOLUkg27zBZG6-p0JwR7-wvc_yOxp5q3tGbMwA3OPt6oQBa_ejI4b2o9LBHBdE2NVdIBPORgF2FF1YqjlwJqihiAQYhRjc6RBPa8F3DV6yh52xQ/w640-h480/20230726_141626.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC54LVZjKiMQrVx8DnTXCOx6mcwgt8XCA4HSB2kbxdvpCzAPUzAamDV6oSht1l8gzsdcdJiwtDRSIIqUZnnK1lS_1zVeTDa4w_vW38Ltznp4cLxbWQynW7flh98KVOXKbXDCmxKPJGqBGXRfTOpbP9K8Z7CH9jLTfNWfAQrOgQxC75Cndi769ILze52OQ/s1209/20230727_095955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC54LVZjKiMQrVx8DnTXCOx6mcwgt8XCA4HSB2kbxdvpCzAPUzAamDV6oSht1l8gzsdcdJiwtDRSIIqUZnnK1lS_1zVeTDa4w_vW38Ltznp4cLxbWQynW7flh98KVOXKbXDCmxKPJGqBGXRfTOpbP9K8Z7CH9jLTfNWfAQrOgQxC75Cndi769ILze52OQ/w640-h480/20230727_095955.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>"Para todo mal, mezcal,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>para todo bien, también,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>y si no hay remedio,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>litro y medio.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Si el mal es del Corazón</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>con más razón,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>pero si el mal está cabrón,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>un galón,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>y si el mal es renuente</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>hay qué empezar nuevamente.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Ay! Mezcal bendito,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Ay! Mezcal sagrado,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>cuida mi intestino</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>el grueso y el delgado.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Me sirvo la copa,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>levanto el brazo,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>inclino el codo</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>y a la salud de todos</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>me lo acabo todo."</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div><br /></div>25/7<br />Puerto Escondido-San Miguel Mixtepec<br />46km<div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mi sveglio più tardi del solito, a sole già alto, nonostante il casino dei ragazzini che sguazzano nella piscina di fronte alla nostra camera. Stanotte sono stata malino di pancia, con scioltone reiterato allo sfinimento. Purtroppo capita quasi ogni volta si ceni fuori. Non sono infezioni gravi che durano più di qualche ora, per fortuna. Ho già dato lo scorso anno in Perù. Però, anche così, con una notte di andirivieni tra cesso e letto, non è proprio una delizia. Infatti oggi mi sento un fantasmino di volpe, disidratata, svuotata, assonnata e debole. Per fortuna ci aspetta una tappa breve, una mezza giornata di avvicinamento alle grandi salite dei prossimi giorni. Tra la costa e l’altopiano dove sorge Oaxaca sono tutte montagne, disposte in più ordini come i denti degli squali. A parte oggi, avremo sempre un passo intorno ai 2000m, con giornate per metà in salita e per metà in discesa. I paesi con strutture, sulla strada, sono pochi. Uno ogni valle, giusti per fermarsi la notte e risalire in quota il giorno successivo. Fare le tappe è facile. 3 valli, 3 paesi, 3 soste, più l’ultima che è l’antica e austera capitale dello stato.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quindi oggi puntiamo a San Miguel Mixtepec, 46km di strada per lo più in salita, ma con pendenze non agghiaccianti. Dopo la colazione in camera e il reimpacchettamento dei bagagli, partiamo. La statale costiera di Puerto Escondido è abbastanza trafficata, e dobbiamo districarci tra mezzi di ogni genere, in primis motorini con tavola da surf a lato, tra salite, rampe, dossi, buche. Prima di lasciare la città abbiamo due passaggi logistici da fare. Il primo: andare da un meccanico ciclista e sperare che sistemi il cambio di Gigi, che ha problemi di trasmissione. Il secondo: trovare una batteria di ricambio per il suo ciclocomputer. Io ne ho dovuta comprare una a Palenque, e l’ho trovata subito. Gigi sta impazzendo da giorni tra negozi e negozietti e sembra che stia cercando la pietra filosofale. Nessuno ha batterie. E lui frigge, mentre si pedala, a non sapere quanti kilometri si sono percorsi, a che passo, quanto manchi. Lo capisco. Anch’io funziono così, e quando, per qualche ragione, la tecnologia non mi conforta, faccio tutti i miei calcoli in base al tempo. E se non ho nemmeno l’orologio, cosa rarissima, mi baso sul sole. Sono trascorsa dal tempo, trafitta dal suo scorrere come un San Sebastiano. Poi, a casa, dove ci sono orari da rispettare, sono anche puntualmente, sempre in ritardo, perché il tempo sì mi trascorre, ma passandomi attraverso si deforma, si curva, si ripiega e distorce.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma bando alle ciance. Tra i pochi meccanici segnalati da Google, l’unico che sembra affidabile (non tanto in termini di esperienza, ma di pezzi di ricambio di marche note) si trova accanto al mercato vecchio, nella parte alta della città, dove i turisti non si spingono. Tra bancarelle, ambulanti, mercati coperti, negozi e gente che sposta e vende cose, troviamo il negozio. Dovrebbe aprire alle 8. Sono le 9 e la saracinesca è abbassata. Ma fuori c’è un signore che pare un ex surfista, capello lungo chiaro, pelle cotta dal sole e dal sale, braccio paralizzato, che ci dice che il paron tra tre minuti arriva. Meno male! Aspettiamo e, in effetti, si palesa un ragazzo che dà il pugnetto al tizio e ci chiede subito di cosa abbiamo bisogno. E’ lui il nostro uomo. Gigi spiega e lui, dopo aver toccacciato alla buona due fili, capisce che il problema è serio. Sparisce e torna dopo poco con le chiavi della bottega. Apre, fa entrare il signore che è il suo braccio destro (l’unico funzionante) e lo manda in officina, mentre lui si siede sul gradino di ingresso del negozio, che è un localino stipato di bici e accessori, armato di straccio, lubrificante, chiavi, brugole, e pennello (!). Mette la bici su n cavalletto e inizia a trafficare. Sulle prime sembra non ci stia capendo nulla, spruzza lubrificante a destra e a manca, e spennella, fa cose. Poi, visti gli scarsi risultati e le espressioni dubitanti di Gigi, che gli sta addosso, decide di affrontare il problema alla radice e trinciare il filo del cambio. In quel momento Gigi ed io ci guardiamo e senza parlare ci stiamo dicendo: “Ok è fatta, ha compiuto il danno definitivo. Ora non sa più rimettere il filo e il cambio è andato del tutto”. E invece il brav’uomo si mette lì con calma, mentre cerca di fare un po’ di conversazione per stemperare la tensione, e rimonta tutto da nuovo, lubrificando e spennellando. Fino all’ultimo pare che sia tutto perduto e nulla funzioni, ma poi… Magia! La trasmissione funziona perfettamente. Registra tutto, e soddisfatto, si alza. “Parlo anche un po’ di italiano”, dice sorridendo. Allora ribatto: “Bravissimo! Sei il mago delle biciclette!”, e lui gongola. Per tutto questo lavoro, durato un’ora, chiede 40 pesos, poco più di due euro. Gli lasciamo una mancia degna del problema che ci ha risolto, insieme a tanti ringraziamenti.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSM2RqP_rGPFG19leJ2k4s8BF_ZjDfayYp8iCrx96l0Vx40mW2OxBovjKAL-6LBd0IdDurlLyGqCSiqWvPOJwzSbaEHt_Cwg4KZ3-2yE4X-wrYy9rA7G3gnN4kqLDELg2e7KDmuPz7hzkZXFPvizPwpXIqdYUZU6iTKzC-c3RKenF6tmVd8N-TSK-Ghxo/s1209/20230725_092915.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSM2RqP_rGPFG19leJ2k4s8BF_ZjDfayYp8iCrx96l0Vx40mW2OxBovjKAL-6LBd0IdDurlLyGqCSiqWvPOJwzSbaEHt_Cwg4KZ3-2yE4X-wrYy9rA7G3gnN4kqLDELg2e7KDmuPz7hzkZXFPvizPwpXIqdYUZU6iTKzC-c3RKenF6tmVd8N-TSK-Ghxo/s320/20230725_092915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg623PLVCLva_BlKveT96RuJJW4VA1rOaYB1yYlgigbsrqS9MLt8JpsplMNhl-i9iHMiZnwUMTkKK2ZRx3yVPeb2vlxN1DO8ZBV-DEdsMDanlhcJmKP2BcStJolE32cacGUUgFhf2xHKHbwxNcakNEUrlcnEmVseNubdAib4uFegFtxUTKLxMPIFBqNsm4/s1209/20230725_093002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg623PLVCLva_BlKveT96RuJJW4VA1rOaYB1yYlgigbsrqS9MLt8JpsplMNhl-i9iHMiZnwUMTkKK2ZRx3yVPeb2vlxN1DO8ZBV-DEdsMDanlhcJmKP2BcStJolE32cacGUUgFhf2xHKHbwxNcakNEUrlcnEmVseNubdAib4uFegFtxUTKLxMPIFBqNsm4/s320/20230725_093002.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA572yXzkjXdkCN3zAvDcamNCIvpmL5SWYg6ukTJyyMCopw_QUKqOEdkwMV3Kh22XxVb5DSqZzUAGR_db8eqjMMyJLV1eON8_k9l1J20fdmJITuKBAFTcbjiuKNSHkVWRwF9a1mqQ8ODWEFV0CSUS5uDsuHNcFsHluTg7zSdq3tij7VVw92l367EPAIN8/s1209/20230725_093014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA572yXzkjXdkCN3zAvDcamNCIvpmL5SWYg6ukTJyyMCopw_QUKqOEdkwMV3Kh22XxVb5DSqZzUAGR_db8eqjMMyJLV1eON8_k9l1J20fdmJITuKBAFTcbjiuKNSHkVWRwF9a1mqQ8ODWEFV0CSUS5uDsuHNcFsHluTg7zSdq3tij7VVw92l367EPAIN8/s320/20230725_093014.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqj5KpG9n0DAS4SAwhYs_9Lqju81EW0jJZED3dfftOCqPc8KTuUqNpEbbBvSTOa3IAP4NzkMEVL7Ozh88ynqcHKleDjHPcppxVdZ96qOXAfqPHD1G3JGuJAmYQmw0iL5-4Ozw_VffpheThNBXyCv9nY77LIBJj4fvyc9nKpDhk4fYgGCtl5QJ3s-edcA/s1209/20230725_093143.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqj5KpG9n0DAS4SAwhYs_9Lqju81EW0jJZED3dfftOCqPc8KTuUqNpEbbBvSTOa3IAP4NzkMEVL7Ozh88ynqcHKleDjHPcppxVdZ96qOXAfqPHD1G3JGuJAmYQmw0iL5-4Ozw_VffpheThNBXyCv9nY77LIBJj4fvyc9nKpDhk4fYgGCtl5QJ3s-edcA/s320/20230725_093143.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIiqurVRyBzXj2PLV_46NAOsoIUDmQdBO7SrZ87DVxv4jsikEIQTDj440rFm8gswXzqZryxL-FuDLHX9J59i4_ju0VUvmMltoA_ja71XoTW8A0vNhoz-tXdkaheCpgQgMhCVCRqpCPrSOQuXE-Gapwuu7h_QGxc9BuIlodEjv6-7ibDbljFX0fslVXz8c/s1209/20230725_093603.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIiqurVRyBzXj2PLV_46NAOsoIUDmQdBO7SrZ87DVxv4jsikEIQTDj440rFm8gswXzqZryxL-FuDLHX9J59i4_ju0VUvmMltoA_ja71XoTW8A0vNhoz-tXdkaheCpgQgMhCVCRqpCPrSOQuXE-Gapwuu7h_QGxc9BuIlodEjv6-7ibDbljFX0fslVXz8c/s320/20230725_093603.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A questo punto Gigi si tuffa nel mercato coperto perché abbiamo chiesto e ci han detto che lì c’è un orologiaio che vende batterie. Dopo giorni di vana ricerca, in pochi attimi Gigi trova l’agognata pila alla bancarella di un anziano asiatico. Bisogna venire nei mercati. Nei mercati ci sono tutte le risposte, tutte le soluzioni.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilo4vbZwji9vrbNnyxbOIfJHG_2pDZpHIoO9iKEhmRaXsvpBl_OtK1rbLS0TjAtgl5_lsvx4lpFRg0nZ3HbEbpQWhwDoquuZroaHfHPiRwlLSKRHTXqpa3zpKo5H_RlvnU6vNt04TuxJVK1zATYTLyNco2wdgyl6WDJzpVlArhCdbcnV8Lo0LmQv6BJaQ/s979/20230725_100147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilo4vbZwji9vrbNnyxbOIfJHG_2pDZpHIoO9iKEhmRaXsvpBl_OtK1rbLS0TjAtgl5_lsvx4lpFRg0nZ3HbEbpQWhwDoquuZroaHfHPiRwlLSKRHTXqpa3zpKo5H_RlvnU6vNt04TuxJVK1zATYTLyNco2wdgyl6WDJzpVlArhCdbcnV8Lo0LmQv6BJaQ/s320/20230725_100147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRc612CFKotyWCCvOuVF_qFrROFGmmpDNikFNSRMiaiSdoGoHuVOHn0Z9EbOb5ICv3ukDTa3qwIBQ3cUXeRfY67_AFHom9SaZDxBpxcTauMvzoYFv9c7lUxyhIcYNLQbaCaJrpTLLdOhBLq12MkCZ7DoBTAqTzlzCnnetatRYs9xbQQR3whQGr-aRPo4M/s979/20230725_100150.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRc612CFKotyWCCvOuVF_qFrROFGmmpDNikFNSRMiaiSdoGoHuVOHn0Z9EbOb5ICv3ukDTa3qwIBQ3cUXeRfY67_AFHom9SaZDxBpxcTauMvzoYFv9c7lUxyhIcYNLQbaCaJrpTLLdOhBLq12MkCZ7DoBTAqTzlzCnnetatRYs9xbQQR3whQGr-aRPo4M/s320/20230725_100150.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Finalmente, a metà della
mattina, partiamo davvero. Nel giro di poco siamo fuori dal caos del mercato e
la città cede presto il passo a campagna e collina. I primi kilometri sono un
dolce saliscendi tra paesini e ranchos, con ampi declivi a pascolo dove brucano
cavalli, asini e mucche dalle lunghe orecchie. Le case sono poche e sparse, con
le amache in cortile e i bambini che giocano nella terra battuta, in un
razzolare di polli e tacchinoni.</div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">Poi la strada inizia ad
arrampicarsi un po’ di più, ma ogni volta che prende un minimo di quota arriva
un discesone a rubarcela. Ma mica ci dispiace allentare un attimo la tensione e
godere dell’aria che sembra fresca sul nostro sudore copioso che ci infradicia
come avessimo fatto un tuffo in mare. Perché in salita i tratti in ombra sono
pochi e quando la strada è esposta al sole si cuoce a fiamma viva.</p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidlJTgeq1wGyK9I8DwgeUGhZ5S5wJYpYpaWPykAcx5rw16VywMKwEjqH3OkQsnV_-v4eE_954toe9uQWqzZxCNkFlyYVT-N1cmZY4ezgGikLg-aHl3r7Qev8tbB-Fz7JnMp6LxYb75Z9sd0VPY43G0lHd79o3RCBA73eUEOcq2cBF8BIyDLv9ELn5-21M/s1209/20230725_110220.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidlJTgeq1wGyK9I8DwgeUGhZ5S5wJYpYpaWPykAcx5rw16VywMKwEjqH3OkQsnV_-v4eE_954toe9uQWqzZxCNkFlyYVT-N1cmZY4ezgGikLg-aHl3r7Qev8tbB-Fz7JnMp6LxYb75Z9sd0VPY43G0lHd79o3RCBA73eUEOcq2cBF8BIyDLv9ELn5-21M/s320/20230725_110220.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4ZPofaXIzPpEmiNLOWMBU7yZz_8vq3Bsphtgk0qWz2IbY0cdR3n-7-vCKo0dj8VAEDslBGo9pEV-DEv7nnOWj6ETx3YL9Jqzn7D9UyuXRlzxNzH3kzqaDpgA93aJlyjyX3gEoy9yH5c5EDJj6Tx3RaU9I4ET23txmBT417wPahTftuq6Gc824Ibzlc0/s1209/20230725_110229.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4ZPofaXIzPpEmiNLOWMBU7yZz_8vq3Bsphtgk0qWz2IbY0cdR3n-7-vCKo0dj8VAEDslBGo9pEV-DEv7nnOWj6ETx3YL9Jqzn7D9UyuXRlzxNzH3kzqaDpgA93aJlyjyX3gEoy9yH5c5EDJj6Tx3RaU9I4ET23txmBT417wPahTftuq6Gc824Ibzlc0/s320/20230725_110229.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_zD-HjiR1kxUMDwKoEzWaMlZIh2snE7r9vB_FqR2MrCMC5ILrlaNZQ-JjhWtea-4gUJCIby92Yj2DgBgx2ayIp-wiNmqFJEvAwo8g4IdXjJOvCyJp7rx5mss4HVmxHyqDDvqhLFuTLQOGLbWnOHqF7BJwxeNuGAFYkdr9tdOCGV6fw6PwPTM4_UHSP4/s979/20230725_110235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_zD-HjiR1kxUMDwKoEzWaMlZIh2snE7r9vB_FqR2MrCMC5ILrlaNZQ-JjhWtea-4gUJCIby92Yj2DgBgx2ayIp-wiNmqFJEvAwo8g4IdXjJOvCyJp7rx5mss4HVmxHyqDDvqhLFuTLQOGLbWnOHqF7BJwxeNuGAFYkdr9tdOCGV6fw6PwPTM4_UHSP4/s320/20230725_110235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9J2OB62BMJ8OsDOpsD35RNtEBk3hkoAbgx4y-N5_1l9BTgulUYMc2ZY6nHzMrWYNTZMym5_J64Lhma0vBJ-D2JOCtnE9pliY1X_PWikUxTjB1LvfXNPcLiao4shQB-AFIYE-9Q39ALfF301e2P04yOalxgLzlRGZBSmlSo-fZyt7gJD2VBZxC8X8It-g/s1209/20230725_112340.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9J2OB62BMJ8OsDOpsD35RNtEBk3hkoAbgx4y-N5_1l9BTgulUYMc2ZY6nHzMrWYNTZMym5_J64Lhma0vBJ-D2JOCtnE9pliY1X_PWikUxTjB1LvfXNPcLiao4shQB-AFIYE-9Q39ALfF301e2P04yOalxgLzlRGZBSmlSo-fZyt7gJD2VBZxC8X8It-g/s320/20230725_112340.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A metà tappa facciamo una sosta nell’unica cittadina della giornata, esclusa quella di arrivo, San Pedro Mixtepec. Come si intuisce dal nome, questa valle è popolata da gente di etnia mixteca, l’altro grande gruppo dell’Oaxaca oltre agli zapotechi (da loro sconfitti ben pima dell’arrivo degli spagnoli). Sono zone del tutto fuori dalle rotte turistiche, piuttosto isolare e dove i gringos sono ancor meno amati che in altre zone del Messico. Siamo anche stati messi in guardia dal pedalare tra queste montagne. Ma la gente mi pare tranquilla e, esclusa la legittima curiosità e lo stupore, qualche risatina bonaria e qualche dito puntato dai bambini, non percepisco cattive vibrazioni, anzi. Mangiamo frutta secca e beviamo, mentre i cani randagi vengono ad elemosinare qualche arachide. Poi si riparte. Da qui, fino ai 1000m di quota, sarà tutta salita. Sempre morbida, sempre senza strappi, ma ininterrotta. Gigi è in forma e tiene un passo che io mi sogno. Quando proprio spingo, raggiungo i 7km/h. Il tempo, così, si dilata. Sembra di essere nel paradosso di Zenone, ed io sono Achille. Il segmento dello spazio da percorrere si divide all’infinito in segmenti più piccoli, che come un domino sospeso poi collassano, come un ponte tibetano che si sfilaccia e fa precipitare giù nella voragine nera dell’immobilità, di schiena, tra tessere di domino, lancette, odometri, assi del ponte, tartarughe, pignoni, il bianconiglio, filosofi dell’antica Grecia. Vi ho detto che in queste valli coltivano un fungo allucinogeno, lo psilocybe messicano, detto hongo magico, che persino il Brucaliffo invidia? A riportarmi al reale (specifico che i miei trip sono dettati dalla fatica e dalla stanchezza, sono momenti di ek-statis, uscita dal proprio sé) ci sono i perri maledetti, che ogni tanto sbucano fuori dalle capanne e dalle baracche con intenzioni malevole nei confronti dei nostri polpaccetti. Anche se la maggior parte sono randagi talmente magri, deboli e maltrattati da scappare a coda fra le zampe appena ci vedono.</div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><o:p></o:p></p></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjstaBf8Kxgbr1ZCIRtLv80DGRM4g4V5OggcZ6AfTZkhlDBB29u-4DRHXyUuX86mK8-mofyyRlpbDgDasbR1I43lhk_KuFjbDduj4cwNdL-kDaZUlF6IEDdsaKFJt_lnBopMzMo_WoWrZfFuihPyupLJ9ix_ePvDYXf_zKdAaXrpqSUZyYb6J6zMUJgk/s1209/20230725_114141.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjstaBf8Kxgbr1ZCIRtLv80DGRM4g4V5OggcZ6AfTZkhlDBB29u-4DRHXyUuX86mK8-mofyyRlpbDgDasbR1I43lhk_KuFjbDduj4cwNdL-kDaZUlF6IEDdsaKFJt_lnBopMzMo_WoWrZfFuihPyupLJ9ix_ePvDYXf_zKdAaXrpqSUZyYb6J6zMUJgk/s320/20230725_114141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGr6869iJF4DYUUZNod0DCDEE2nTrYKKJV_0t2oACPbj09PLKMMp5ETDkycy8ACaytVzOEjXFweyLz6N3kIRSo8_TTYmOJvVLTtyPUjvo_hQYe-ypvzGS_eevND4-KmcR5sWqE-JhoMqi7vq3Hu2TUHpAFqMO5jfZUmdtx37yN5IQRgdV2MRN8JtrStM/s1209/20230725_134336.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGr6869iJF4DYUUZNod0DCDEE2nTrYKKJV_0t2oACPbj09PLKMMp5ETDkycy8ACaytVzOEjXFweyLz6N3kIRSo8_TTYmOJvVLTtyPUjvo_hQYe-ypvzGS_eevND4-KmcR5sWqE-JhoMqi7vq3Hu2TUHpAFqMO5jfZUmdtx37yN5IQRgdV2MRN8JtrStM/s320/20230725_134336.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mano a mano che saliamo il paesaggio cambia, e in fretta. Ora siamo circondati da montagne verdissime, coperte di fitta foresta. Il cielo si annuvola e sulle cime si addensa un temporale nero notte e abbastanza spaventoso. Su di noi pioviscola, poi piove un po’, ma mai con violenza. Certo la temperatura si abbassa, per quanto il tasso di umidità sia tale da dare l’impressione di nuotare, più che respirare. Intanto i boschi intorno si coprono di un manto di nebbia, che son nuvole basse. Tutto è bianco spettrale, pare di essere in alta quota. Siamo a 1000m, a una manciata di kilometri dalle spiagge. Pare un altro mondo. Queste sono le prime propaggini della foresta nebulare. Il panorama ha un fascino misterioso e vagamente inquietante. Qualche brivido mi fa accapponare la pelle. La sensazione di fresco è qualcosa di dimenticato da un mese, al punto che penso di aver la febbre. E invece, semplicemente, non si scoppia di caldo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKl5vQShb7XceWmUgLB_IclnSh_NOwAUhBgZJE-2p9vgo1xa62yLe_gFOGnkQn9G66v8MZS-QIr5o40XlOm-m-q0dNE46EQYQkv0KC2HSJhCuNRUXE_Ff8DHZbfhfEGBWYOCw87DsXtpDvH0x0LkAnordmzCSC1tNDQ6fUWEEIvCtp28E_2qX2CHOvq0/s1209/20230725_134343.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKl5vQShb7XceWmUgLB_IclnSh_NOwAUhBgZJE-2p9vgo1xa62yLe_gFOGnkQn9G66v8MZS-QIr5o40XlOm-m-q0dNE46EQYQkv0KC2HSJhCuNRUXE_Ff8DHZbfhfEGBWYOCw87DsXtpDvH0x0LkAnordmzCSC1tNDQ6fUWEEIvCtp28E_2qX2CHOvq0/s320/20230725_134343.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBtZ9DXJGlojSK_qXI9nRnRJnhuLFDcqJKSKJ2gFKuRvltws4PNAAKvgoUvP5vwUJGil3_hvvrWXjnGyBg1XmwY6L_tz52yJuSra5R7Lz713SDhTqH3kU2Iq5tL5gz7hjsRRaA08E35_LOaWpchCsv5vz7idwDi8Ca7zOcMKLBhlaspWA4kv4WEmmMpF8/s320/20230725_145709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYk4MaCZg6tCbcufuRhERR5jnkp0uWQGEbRPI2pZjSK7FEr1XzuDKtRYxdB8fwpYBx1-iQZrPNFY8CjFBA6c5FvfB4My7IVSpNqnB6koDF2gq6coj_Mb_3H5GqXMoIk9k11Hz0U7DmRxD332gX_z8iRABCUo474zpiWS-fgCJtDVFROm_NrszU82jBIY/s1209/20230725_145752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYk4MaCZg6tCbcufuRhERR5jnkp0uWQGEbRPI2pZjSK7FEr1XzuDKtRYxdB8fwpYBx1-iQZrPNFY8CjFBA6c5FvfB4My7IVSpNqnB6koDF2gq6coj_Mb_3H5GqXMoIk9k11Hz0U7DmRxD332gX_z8iRABCUo474zpiWS-fgCJtDVFROm_NrszU82jBIY/s320/20230725_145752.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Finalmente scolliniamo, e viene il momento di tornare in valle, al paese dove faremo sosta. Qui la strada e gli alberi sono fradici, grondano, e ci si muove in un acquario vegetale. Mentre scendiamo in picchiata, vediamo delle magliette rosse e dei gilet catarifrangenti appesi ai rami a bordo strada. Rallentiamo un poco ed ecco un “blocco” dei “bandidos”. Sono due bambini di cinque o sei anni che tengono una corda tesa da un capo all’altro della strada. Se non frenassimo, li travolgeremmo noi in bici, figuratevi un’auto. Ci fermiamo. La madre, una donna di carnagione scura, con capelli e occhi neri, smagrita ma sorridente, ci dice che chiedono un pedaggio perché stanno pulendo la strada dal fango. Il bimbo allunga un secchiello, e ci buttiamo dentro qualche monetina. Ci ringraziano. Un centinaio di metri più avanti un uomo, probabilmente il padre dei bimbi, si sta spaccando la schiena a raccogliere il vango con una vanga e caricarlo su una carriola. Ci saluta sorridendo, poi torna curvo sul suo lavoro. C’è stata una frana, evidentemente, e i “bandidos” che vivono nelle case sparse sulla montagna, fuori dal paese, devono risolversi da soli il problema. Per questo chiedono l’obolo. Poco più sotto, all’ingresso della città, c’è invece un’escavatrice con benna che sta sgomberando la strada dal fango. Qui niente pedaggio, è un regalo del governo agli elettori. Bastano poche centinaia di metri per essere cittadini di serie B, o anche C e D, da queste parti.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvB3ePHtZroC1GJTNOjmdJwhvgdl7Jdbneh_tlNBWw03urqvrZcfqpoD8mG6wb7apSloRxSCwhedxAR1U1SqddFIpcJ7nDF0SwDhnXg86IkBqySrdZGCBZJikvEnxOX2xj_GipBUxUKfP3RR45Rkxv-l0eWhuCsobFuPNj0bIP6ptzmesPDt8O39CWPAA/s1209/20230725_145900(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvB3ePHtZroC1GJTNOjmdJwhvgdl7Jdbneh_tlNBWw03urqvrZcfqpoD8mG6wb7apSloRxSCwhedxAR1U1SqddFIpcJ7nDF0SwDhnXg86IkBqySrdZGCBZJikvEnxOX2xj_GipBUxUKfP3RR45Rkxv-l0eWhuCsobFuPNj0bIP6ptzmesPDt8O39CWPAA/s320/20230725_145900(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2cOX3-5FxLr0h8fidZLE1s1xGYpOQDZ3I2yKY4lQAOzc3BefgaAs1edZ_sfljcoqQwzDVEZ1BzsrSGxWvZxIzSEuy0Wc2uFNzlvYSSv30P8QxvbBjzR_90Rel1hRqNu7bxjK2Br_Uzsef9re7_EVNrMIx-m8OQ3YzyxCbMzIAT3i_xx4Ts-T3vGAb-Bo/s320/20230725_150150.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WgzDri3TpFxzYKLLvBAU4bD5C5-nnxCJYcgg6PpWjVrzzYh-WkJvprXPS7vz-y8kkGPXDOXi4aOCz19OnTTQfm3wzvXazQCQmL-_sVfJ0GKXgpxGCPoBWQ57Pyd1q7ai2Yebj9WmbQXYmvvmQ23xf71wWyN8VDvAEsTXfWEY44E61lwLDep3vz7fjU8/s1209/20230725_150542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7WgzDri3TpFxzYKLLvBAU4bD5C5-nnxCJYcgg6PpWjVrzzYh-WkJvprXPS7vz-y8kkGPXDOXi4aOCz19OnTTQfm3wzvXazQCQmL-_sVfJ0GKXgpxGCPoBWQ57Pyd1q7ai2Yebj9WmbQXYmvvmQ23xf71wWyN8VDvAEsTXfWEY44E61lwLDep3vz7fjU8/s320/20230725_150542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2OVU1-QMhWYmDz67OcBUrf4vCmgl-Fg2XOxHQ7YdH_Eglk1SQ_3T8d9pErvjSJ1npLql9wL4Xj2P8alcZxQ-ZMQAL-LrXmUjBQMJHFQcN4olbHShdbR435F4NbPvzXvRraR8tGHhzefxZld1Dw35K5GGm2lLJJZBRrNl-Cs-xGGR42QS9Qxo4cv9V64A/s320/20230725_150818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQffpSwVoCvZmpkf8rtWQ2EjGymvftuR0aSYemF5EpUJ8kqy1klHqX1kXHYG9Se3HAV8X6eyxgMpOHvKoAtqa77Mv2SKdgPLx3AbPRQ6yXBYMbBUb0iB7XZTmswUC772cbKV3QMglqw_Vy2Vgh8UsY-q6JSwyz3Mzj3AE3-3txPN79lgemcgqUc4K6-9c/s1209/20230725_150855.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQffpSwVoCvZmpkf8rtWQ2EjGymvftuR0aSYemF5EpUJ8kqy1klHqX1kXHYG9Se3HAV8X6eyxgMpOHvKoAtqa77Mv2SKdgPLx3AbPRQ6yXBYMbBUb0iB7XZTmswUC772cbKV3QMglqw_Vy2Vgh8UsY-q6JSwyz3Mzj3AE3-3txPN79lgemcgqUc4K6-9c/s320/20230725_150855.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In breve siamo in centro. San Miguel Mixtepec è un pueblo vivace, per quanto ci appaia grigio e oppresso dalla nebbia e dalle nuvole bassissime, e invaso dal fango. Ci sono negozietti incastonati tra pendici e valle stretta, signore che preparano tortillas sotto ai portici, ambulanti che vendono tamales e li pubblicizzano con megafoni e jingle a tutto volume. I cani randagi sono decine e si mescolano al pollame e alla gente che passeggia, e tutto si mescola nella caligine di questa piccola boccia di pesci di montagna con due o quattro zampe.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFePSqWVqOPWm5or0vCvnU11wQMw70Qr3eLOnzhtdpQZ2UA2J29yuX1qZlr_-VPsUpAu69VwqNe9ehq8UbbA2ZnkeeFeTAeJJSPQz3Pfe78DWvGsjfaHeNspHDizGqD_R9WCdF5Z_JZ4DFppvCO9qnNeKO3qhtPBL1HqxsIV2x8Y24j63zXcHL0VHelaA/s1209/20230725_151252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFePSqWVqOPWm5or0vCvnU11wQMw70Qr3eLOnzhtdpQZ2UA2J29yuX1qZlr_-VPsUpAu69VwqNe9ehq8UbbA2ZnkeeFeTAeJJSPQz3Pfe78DWvGsjfaHeNspHDizGqD_R9WCdF5Z_JZ4DFppvCO9qnNeKO3qhtPBL1HqxsIV2x8Y24j63zXcHL0VHelaA/s320/20230725_151252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prendiamo una camera nell’unico hotel del paese, che ora è vuoto ma si riempirà entro sera. Il proprietario, un uomo che prima allevava vacche e ha decorato l’albergo in stile mexcowboy, con crani cornuti appesi qua e là, ha voglia di chiacchierare. Prima parliamo del nostro viaggio, poi viene a sapere che siamo italiani e ci dice che sua figlia ora è in Italia, e sta visitando tutto il paese. Mentre ci mostra la chat di Whatsapp con tutte le foto, dalle Alpi alle Piramidi, da Venezia a Napoli, ci spiega che ha 21 anni e conosce un sacco di lingue, e il prossimo anno si laureerà in relazioni internazionali. “Qui è un paesino piccolo, lei è andata via e viaggia sempre. E’ molto intelligente, e l’ho fatta studiare. Io rimango qui, povero paparino, ad affittare le camerette ai passanti… Ma lei! Che vita farà! E’ sempre in giro, e ha fatto buone scuole”. Lo dice con orgoglio, anche se si capisce che dietro a tali successi c’è il sacrificio di una famiglia che ha investito per dare alla figlia le opportunità che i genitori non hanno avuto. Sono convinta che, in questi casi, la scuola sia presa con la dovuta serietà, perché ti può cambiare la vita.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fgSM-9n6LKasebi_YVkj3bTTQurr94i-cjbV3Ex19LYF6R4A1YTgJQmiFH3XfVFlOhScpnszvfCEs4-ioOHOzhMJICt0moURI4ADbd_tviUGgfh3apHrk8WQvvu8rN3PHQYDH0eLSgUTmdkjidcnFIbFdrBZsphFj0CBiEXUMN92V6VTfJBga7HBOZw/s1209/20230725_152819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fgSM-9n6LKasebi_YVkj3bTTQurr94i-cjbV3Ex19LYF6R4A1YTgJQmiFH3XfVFlOhScpnszvfCEs4-ioOHOzhMJICt0moURI4ADbd_tviUGgfh3apHrk8WQvvu8rN3PHQYDH0eLSgUTmdkjidcnFIbFdrBZsphFj0CBiEXUMN92V6VTfJBga7HBOZw/s320/20230725_152819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ony-x9_V1FIb05TEQEwWknxRS3Nz0oEik2975aoFSPEUGaUlKelM6TrfWUBbmmWcHiMRa1IJy8j_mTF95PWMsSn05qikf7zuAHSdkAHToPbH1_3JApwlK1kz7SwnFkmp3MIDdDszfaBNQEwUeoLQg2A6N3UyNJJCOPqKjNHX9Sk0-bgGk_U8dnC4FGk/s1209/20230725_152839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ony-x9_V1FIb05TEQEwWknxRS3Nz0oEik2975aoFSPEUGaUlKelM6TrfWUBbmmWcHiMRa1IJy8j_mTF95PWMsSn05qikf7zuAHSdkAHToPbH1_3JApwlK1kz7SwnFkmp3MIDdDszfaBNQEwUeoLQg2A6N3UyNJJCOPqKjNHX9Sk0-bgGk_U8dnC4FGk/s320/20230725_152839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY325KrilkwR7SwOxa465pJyZkdwOjmeSzZWHoVEZzX3po4Mqe_NFRkSxP8lwiPFNDh7FkeXwT-tbqJuHqiBUFys1EuWBXimBTk1y-YgD8pSH3WI1bYlG5ZXhBeHKEY9y8PA-72Kv_9FTuaTjlrBfyTT_nxyQHX8IYm5P_tCKVp2duQLWwxTnSebbJYbs/s1209/20230725_152908.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY325KrilkwR7SwOxa465pJyZkdwOjmeSzZWHoVEZzX3po4Mqe_NFRkSxP8lwiPFNDh7FkeXwT-tbqJuHqiBUFys1EuWBXimBTk1y-YgD8pSH3WI1bYlG5ZXhBeHKEY9y8PA-72Kv_9FTuaTjlrBfyTT_nxyQHX8IYm5P_tCKVp2duQLWwxTnSebbJYbs/s320/20230725_152908.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7yVHeeYGVDP0Si13WJzljp3vDaSa1947Aeelyv_wqSSbNQ_8V7uDutmerXimGU0GzSt5Poe9icgAI-TeAsXV3Mu_Oz-X00pNbplEjId3LpUw7zR7oe5CIECt5DjgzUUmpb6HxKR3yaCZmxWdgqzy9wos93Ys21PdSTusUnoQvkhYTUJDO9WoOdYFzskw/s1209/20230725_163157.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7yVHeeYGVDP0Si13WJzljp3vDaSa1947Aeelyv_wqSSbNQ_8V7uDutmerXimGU0GzSt5Poe9icgAI-TeAsXV3Mu_Oz-X00pNbplEjId3LpUw7zR7oe5CIECt5DjgzUUmpb6HxKR3yaCZmxWdgqzy9wos93Ys21PdSTusUnoQvkhYTUJDO9WoOdYFzskw/s320/20230725_163157.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il portachiavi è una placchetta identificativa per mucche</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavz9iJ4SOwnMVrOhtBv9Lz2t3SdF-NqaBGueYWbI2p8Zif3gABv887m1OBEFwNG20Tq8UC5q5JinUtF7XMFGg5nrZctbiQizxO8ZwKpowD1hVMPJtGB_NJ25y9IcF5Nu650CSclJEowRG7taQdB5X6QxfMXUi7THCzklTJW_yB-TGL7FgjUgdoUXwM_4/s1209/20230725_185718.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavz9iJ4SOwnMVrOhtBv9Lz2t3SdF-NqaBGueYWbI2p8Zif3gABv887m1OBEFwNG20Tq8UC5q5JinUtF7XMFGg5nrZctbiQizxO8ZwKpowD1hVMPJtGB_NJ25y9IcF5Nu650CSclJEowRG7taQdB5X6QxfMXUi7THCzklTJW_yB-TGL7FgjUgdoUXwM_4/s320/20230725_185718.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ooooops!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Salutiamo il paron e ci godiamo una bella doccia calda e un meritato riposo, mentre fuori tuona e diluvia con veemenza, allagando le strade. Quando smette, e la notte è alle porte, usciamo a far spesa. Siamo l’attrazione del paese, inutile negarlo. Si sente qualche “gringo” tra le chiacchiere delle signore. Vista la mia situazione gastrica precaria, preferiamo mangiare in camera con cibo confezionato e non sfidare la sorte alle taquerie ambulanti che ci sono in strada.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bxWBVe2fSG921DpBSCZDoAKL0NqZYsISb-XHu06-sbE6RYUWmSpFe6qpKydUmDR6cxqFF9D3XO9k58C8sVa8nTYVaQ6f7gDonHPQE7icGyGLUSr0i2RkkUfLtDNUoWcxg9cSN63O4XThjiKj0GiEyN42X5nWSqSHMzfHuajgiePY67PIY5I4FKmWf3A/s1209/20230725_185740.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bxWBVe2fSG921DpBSCZDoAKL0NqZYsISb-XHu06-sbE6RYUWmSpFe6qpKydUmDR6cxqFF9D3XO9k58C8sVa8nTYVaQ6f7gDonHPQE7icGyGLUSr0i2RkkUfLtDNUoWcxg9cSN63O4XThjiKj0GiEyN42X5nWSqSHMzfHuajgiePY67PIY5I4FKmWf3A/s320/20230725_185740.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">La giornata finisce presto, anche perché siamo senza internet e a tratti senza corrente. Fuori si sentono grilli e canti d’uccelli che non so nominare, a tratti latrati di cani, gluglu di tacchini e un diffuso ronzare di radio e tv, musica e risate. Ah, questa cosa va detta: da quando pedaliamo in Messico siamo immersi nel verde, tra vegetazione folta. Ogni giorno siamo circondati da innumerevoli specie animali. Gli insetti banchettano con le nostre carni, tanto che io sono saccagnata malamente ovunque. Intravediamo opossum, armadilli, serpenti, iguane quotidianamente. E tutt’intorno a noi si sentono versi di uccelli che a volte paiono quasi umani, fischi e canti. E’ una ricchezza incredibile!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Domani ci aspetta un dislivello impegnativo da affrontare: saliremo oltre i 2000m, per ridiscendere in valle e far tappa a San Pedro Juchatengo. A quel punto saremo proprio nel cuore delle cosiddette valles centrales, patria di genti indigene, abili nell’artigianato della terracotta e del legno, con una sapienza del fare che si tramanda da oltre duemila anni.</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">26/7</div><div style="text-align: justify;">San Miguel Mixtepec-San Pedro Juchatengo</div><div style="text-align: justify;">68km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">San Miguel ha un servizio di sveglia di paese. Passa un furgoncino con la musica a manetta e un suono di campane a tutto volume, e un buen dia buen dia urlato con la forza delle trombe di Gerico. Ovviamente alle 5 di mattina. Avevamo già incontrato un simile servizio in alcuni paesini peruani, e speravo fosse un uso limitato a quelle piccole realtà. Evidentemente, no. Dormiamo ancora un po', ma il paese si sveglia presto, i pastori portano le mandrie ai pascoli e il mercato si anima, in un viavai di furgoni, merci e persone.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Fatta colazione in camera ci mettiamo in moto. Prima di lasciare l'hotel salutiamo la signora, la moglie del paron. Anche lei ci racconta di nuovo la storia della figlia, anche lei fa battute sul fatto che la fanciulla è in Italia a godersi la bella vita e loro son qui a lavorare. Ma aggiunge: "A breve la seguirò e farò anche io così!". Grande sciura, fai benone. Poi vede i cartelli no soy gringa e ci chiede se siamo stati "molestati". Le spieghiamo tutta la questione e lei ribatte: "Quando mi sono trasferita qui, 20 anni fa, appena sposata, ero chiara chiara di pelle perchè vengo da Monterrey. E i ragazzini mi prendevano in giro dandomi della gringa. Io allora rispondevo loro con le peggio parole che solo un messicano conosce, e han capito che non dovevano troppo scherzare!".</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Che tipa! Comunque questa forma di diffidenza contro gli stranieri, contro chiunque abbia la pelle di colore un po' diverso, è incredibile. E' proprio da mentalità paesana ristretta, da ignoranza. Da paura, da insicurezza. Perchè, in generale, a me non è parso affatto che i messicani siano razzisti o poco accoglienti, anzi!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In ogni caso è ora di partire. Ci aspettano 40km di salita ininterrotta.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il paese, nella luce chiarissima del mattino, sembra perfino quasi bello. Quasino, dai.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGz0Q29E-NOcyjdHxwaoLhfuSMSZICMBlYfoOpXIKS4kLYO8LXFZyfLgTzF4IXAU7pBHiU9NGy4DlOB8WA4crzHI2cDQj_QPIt8jSaNTofwwAw-EEqbnTdvnufa52gyG_E1tygsQo9fYe0nsJgavybov1YKKVRo5PrC3yNqC7e5eBmz4HCS8dr_H55r1k/s1209/20230726_082128.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGz0Q29E-NOcyjdHxwaoLhfuSMSZICMBlYfoOpXIKS4kLYO8LXFZyfLgTzF4IXAU7pBHiU9NGy4DlOB8WA4crzHI2cDQj_QPIt8jSaNTofwwAw-EEqbnTdvnufa52gyG_E1tygsQo9fYe0nsJgavybov1YKKVRo5PrC3yNqC7e5eBmz4HCS8dr_H55r1k/s320/20230726_082128.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In un attimo le case lasciano spazio ai prati, ai pascoli verdissimi che brillano di rugiada fresca. Il sole è così chiaro che fa risplendere ogni nervatura di foglia, ogni filo d'erba, in una risata argentea di linfa nuova. Fa caldo, ma non troppo. E' proprio una bella giornata per pedalare!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDJKE5HWJO7PiLU7sZBdGHBfoPkGdOevTYmHIV_th34jUxToEHYzGvsJvuQjDyU6ghb8ZQm6gYbX559w0kTjGNRMRsgHLyGWfcN2RXX2HyQLH2qwX-lPgBLjpDuM0POPjRKUi_Y3hOG5dZ3zwR09EJon-CkfaSOuzlJh_SBpHYxqMeV70m-cnv4wzbZI/s1209/20230726_082255.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDJKE5HWJO7PiLU7sZBdGHBfoPkGdOevTYmHIV_th34jUxToEHYzGvsJvuQjDyU6ghb8ZQm6gYbX559w0kTjGNRMRsgHLyGWfcN2RXX2HyQLH2qwX-lPgBLjpDuM0POPjRKUi_Y3hOG5dZ3zwR09EJon-CkfaSOuzlJh_SBpHYxqMeV70m-cnv4wzbZI/s320/20230726_082255.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjySp1wq5wO__QFYLuJhl9PRznuiUPbal8v5c7UN_GWjhYGkreHmcyYYGioYngk7nyCspnj4REG4UXg0em-BCKqiLEjEqvEvLas8ViBccGR4ONjOBedhXi4w8sRmuD5H7As-IDbDjChOmBVgTG-CGA_SIXF0STh4azig53ekmYi1XQ1SkAtXYsUQnABlY/s1209/20230726_082327.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjySp1wq5wO__QFYLuJhl9PRznuiUPbal8v5c7UN_GWjhYGkreHmcyYYGioYngk7nyCspnj4REG4UXg0em-BCKqiLEjEqvEvLas8ViBccGR4ONjOBedhXi4w8sRmuD5H7As-IDbDjChOmBVgTG-CGA_SIXF0STh4azig53ekmYi1XQ1SkAtXYsUQnABlY/s320/20230726_082327.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">burri al pascolo</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Nei primi 12km si segue il corso di un ruscello che gorgoglia tra le pietre. Le pendenze sono dolci e spesso si incontrano mucche o asini al pascolo, liberi di muoversi tra i pendii e sulla strada. Le mucche son sempre della varietà gobba-pappagorgia-orecchie lunghe, e sono simpaticissime. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqY77VTR0hObiAQBf8xUgmdZyMWArat_INdOsbpgGnaxkbnmJNve7zeMVELoykIan86fBEVP1k3dTtETjibMGf2FlT97QeUe6UqKz64C_eU0sdCJZIRTMZvWF3K-039vIuNdysjKhODXOCZ-xug32oy7vU7qJk-CZU9PX3E0dpwB0AxT3xnq4qkH6xAlg/s1209/20230726_083518.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqY77VTR0hObiAQBf8xUgmdZyMWArat_INdOsbpgGnaxkbnmJNve7zeMVELoykIan86fBEVP1k3dTtETjibMGf2FlT97QeUe6UqKz64C_eU0sdCJZIRTMZvWF3K-039vIuNdysjKhODXOCZ-xug32oy7vU7qJk-CZU9PX3E0dpwB0AxT3xnq4qkH6xAlg/s320/20230726_083518.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglG0uACu7g9mign6S-8hOCF7_JgjaTOk0OV3LEmltCBTybmxYUJTm6fTV6gQiYVXWMzLfbWbVIUk7uRN164sc5-yzuICL9rSWkuPc-NICKgq5dsCc2idTAE7j2d_IPQ5nxUTwZadWdiO3EQWlIVWd7El4Q4eDQKvVcUKuXHyVA33pbi7qauHa6wtMOhLM/s1209/20230726_083532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglG0uACu7g9mign6S-8hOCF7_JgjaTOk0OV3LEmltCBTybmxYUJTm6fTV6gQiYVXWMzLfbWbVIUk7uRN164sc5-yzuICL9rSWkuPc-NICKgq5dsCc2idTAE7j2d_IPQ5nxUTwZadWdiO3EQWlIVWd7El4Q4eDQKvVcUKuXHyVA33pbi7qauHa6wtMOhLM/s320/20230726_083532.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlz4PF600XvbyftyBF8dTmRJqeTrSgegE1kda32Cuidt8yzZKAEashtdld5RY2NXLfFZ5upsFzcVOF8p_JCvJ4XGNUlGEGzrAy4RhFryxPXlYFdSX5KGqcCegsp7Hqxt7C5thRbn3x7IKusGXQY_NfILsBymT4inQ8uBXUC6JfB-U4QIryTdBirKwp6M/s1209/20230726_083603.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlz4PF600XvbyftyBF8dTmRJqeTrSgegE1kda32Cuidt8yzZKAEashtdld5RY2NXLfFZ5upsFzcVOF8p_JCvJ4XGNUlGEGzrAy4RhFryxPXlYFdSX5KGqcCegsp7Hqxt7C5thRbn3x7IKusGXQY_NfILsBymT4inQ8uBXUC6JfB-U4QIryTdBirKwp6M/s320/20230726_083603.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl1-uz73LVfZnc1BOi_ec0k39_v54sJJCv743Z-TU06RBnTdalRGlgHrgMuTPOOn17HjJtlTJQysWyafIY_feX-rCwh4j_Ht7Gq2co59joQrhNNjinAVK07DMBnzvqfSIIxfrIHec-tbI4F-0OzVx4P8jDrR6TES5KBo5LMT-PnLqsXyrTbdif3CUq9DM/s1209/20230726_083610.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl1-uz73LVfZnc1BOi_ec0k39_v54sJJCv743Z-TU06RBnTdalRGlgHrgMuTPOOn17HjJtlTJQysWyafIY_feX-rCwh4j_Ht7Gq2co59joQrhNNjinAVK07DMBnzvqfSIIxfrIHec-tbI4F-0OzVx4P8jDrR6TES5KBo5LMT-PnLqsXyrTbdif3CUq9DM/s320/20230726_083610.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-K2LfJ15g7mAFfjPQKiHtpH-yMmYBEcvDrG7MPhTlW30E8bQ1681JNCwIqJsWPQHc17YmfvPrPNS66dLijzIwNAuCiysHJ_aIjMIK8uwN4w9rW6voG6vbGTAi7Bjilsvz4z5IMd9ZLhL3JmYFKdTB7MKeU1qq-xJlWumE1S-5yleXPoiIytQYtWUrfxI/s1209/20230726_083701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-K2LfJ15g7mAFfjPQKiHtpH-yMmYBEcvDrG7MPhTlW30E8bQ1681JNCwIqJsWPQHc17YmfvPrPNS66dLijzIwNAuCiysHJ_aIjMIK8uwN4w9rW6voG6vbGTAi7Bjilsvz4z5IMd9ZLhL3JmYFKdTB7MKeU1qq-xJlWumE1S-5yleXPoiIytQYtWUrfxI/s320/20230726_083701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkZF7QaKfOlMQwedjgkmd_zstPIZUnhssSREQk7wiy26krNWnzhx8ukoLS0FO9l3F5ALo7aEGu8mOKnBdf9riVfWluUumwQP_m9D-Sae9GzoncoduLvY2CskGY66QoODjkywhsgV-TF0iJvK26PlC_rgrOZkR16UnD3zP_N0Qma9GV6QYSBnSybM9-3-Q/s1209/20230726_083732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkZF7QaKfOlMQwedjgkmd_zstPIZUnhssSREQk7wiy26krNWnzhx8ukoLS0FO9l3F5ALo7aEGu8mOKnBdf9riVfWluUumwQP_m9D-Sae9GzoncoduLvY2CskGY66QoODjkywhsgV-TF0iJvK26PlC_rgrOZkR16UnD3zP_N0Qma9GV6QYSBnSybM9-3-Q/s320/20230726_083732.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci fermiamo a fotografare una cascatella e incrociamo tre ragazzi, due sposini e un amico. Sono andati in viaggio di nozze a Puerto Escondido e ora tornano nelle valli. Ci offrono un bicchierino di mezcal, ma rifiutiamo. Allora ci chiedono una foto tutti insieme, e chi siamo noi per negare? Compariremo nell'album di foto ricordo del matrimonio di questi giovani e rubizzi messicani di montagna e saremo protagonisti di una storia raccontata a parenti e conoscenti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbh9Tufsyyj_5GvIbTgWV-FHp3jJUSlKYrqHM0Kp6qa_lH3BY8LotqSxNoZwOROwtSY3JTYT4WQcRgQ5sepG6FpIwpRCwySRYQokQDd690HRCikVHkqsVQ0lURoN5_9Z1HYb9Vh9gDqQPP23NAIejSJoPZ-3T0s1Cn7A9-gVDwfH1S-x-8UOM6MvgDaA/s1209/20230726_085233.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbh9Tufsyyj_5GvIbTgWV-FHp3jJUSlKYrqHM0Kp6qa_lH3BY8LotqSxNoZwOROwtSY3JTYT4WQcRgQ5sepG6FpIwpRCwySRYQokQDd690HRCikVHkqsVQ0lURoN5_9Z1HYb9Vh9gDqQPP23NAIejSJoPZ-3T0s1Cn7A9-gVDwfH1S-x-8UOM6MvgDaA/s320/20230726_085233.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUQLD9RUeZEg1PRdUzwdRPpZ441a9vwW9Qc8h6IQbPUuCo-eIsjp6qz8gc05lHrNmSqhcUMCmDT43ejK-1q4LNQ8H0KnAaJNOvsMGs4Q-8vFf5RL6cCQZAvNzgs6j6L-h3jJzH98NHBjHqx9rfGrHH4TNk7GT4j2sxpMz06mxiWbSxEsNymToi4i4eKAI/s1209/20230726_085242.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUQLD9RUeZEg1PRdUzwdRPpZ441a9vwW9Qc8h6IQbPUuCo-eIsjp6qz8gc05lHrNmSqhcUMCmDT43ejK-1q4LNQ8H0KnAaJNOvsMGs4Q-8vFf5RL6cCQZAvNzgs6j6L-h3jJzH98NHBjHqx9rfGrHH4TNk7GT4j2sxpMz06mxiWbSxEsNymToi4i4eKAI/s320/20230726_085242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di ripartire a Gigi si posa una farfallona (qui ce ne sono tantissime, enormi, coloratissime) sulla spalla, e lì rimane per circa un'ora, anche mentre pedaliamo. La vedo, con la sua proboscidina, suggere i sali del sudore della puzzolentissima maglia di Gigi, che a Oaxaca andrà lavata con il lanciafiamme. Se li gode tutti. Ogni poco si sposta di qualche centimetro per sbevazzarsi altri umori. Poi si blocca, ebbra, o morta. Ah no, apre le ali, vola via. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRgiZgfZ2duMbhN-jmHbFjS4hj3FbGxsgXJp20uRj3SFzdT3NE0WzP17Aq8co9t6C7hkx6nxVcjwQeLVEwyyrk00TgkOTFYi7kVvIdjjt1HJ9UALA74DO7qwfh7-0SoKbK5EPmEg6vwqRbrxRSdy-QAE9YT7x7zD8DJ1Rj8f5kOuRxCB_l2ZDik-F2XfQ/s1209/20230726_085540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRgiZgfZ2duMbhN-jmHbFjS4hj3FbGxsgXJp20uRj3SFzdT3NE0WzP17Aq8co9t6C7hkx6nxVcjwQeLVEwyyrk00TgkOTFYi7kVvIdjjt1HJ9UALA74DO7qwfh7-0SoKbK5EPmEg6vwqRbrxRSdy-QAE9YT7x7zD8DJ1Rj8f5kOuRxCB_l2ZDik-F2XfQ/s320/20230726_085540.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQILSMt-XV0veMnj6haL2Id_EMuEnb58duNhd3pvy2qqAMTwuv23faE0W0FZjaDLhe_34acF1QNsmf7U5ZE38qx3FbIoW5ubjBBNrL_vYIGaixAoZ7DXJZOy3dR8himPkQgoYjEc6isQGYrzSZKMOF7cK3TnA0yb-XtC-r40-sKChH6PaWX0Olpe73EE4/s1209/20230726_090758.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQILSMt-XV0veMnj6haL2Id_EMuEnb58duNhd3pvy2qqAMTwuv23faE0W0FZjaDLhe_34acF1QNsmf7U5ZE38qx3FbIoW5ubjBBNrL_vYIGaixAoZ7DXJZOy3dR8himPkQgoYjEc6isQGYrzSZKMOF7cK3TnA0yb-XtC-r40-sKChH6PaWX0Olpe73EE4/s320/20230726_090758.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAuGJkB3sYFgKx6G9npZQTDq-com1eroB9AYfEfIwNYH3n7nQI-cdy2cdAR4T8-ctnmuFL4uw29IAA6atpZavrKoze4X3gSUOCxFQPC40Hq7PMZT9LZkT38WsgHmNUeDyJwdakIy34kkFt2KAfkl2rvJOXh3eThM0MltaeqRh-RtKJwzZug3uBsvqx_04/s1209/20230726_094723.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAuGJkB3sYFgKx6G9npZQTDq-com1eroB9AYfEfIwNYH3n7nQI-cdy2cdAR4T8-ctnmuFL4uw29IAA6atpZavrKoze4X3gSUOCxFQPC40Hq7PMZT9LZkT38WsgHmNUeDyJwdakIy34kkFt2KAfkl2rvJOXh3eThM0MltaeqRh-RtKJwzZug3uBsvqx_04/s320/20230726_094723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Salendo, incontriamo numerosi paesini formati da due o tre case o anche meno. Vendono banane e cocco, lasciandoli sull'uscio e sono circondate da serre: qui si coltivano caffè e tabacco, ed è possibile acquistare piante e semi. Di gente in giro ce ne è poca, mentre non mancano i perri malditi che ci inseguono, ottenendo in cambio una gragnuola di pigne che lanciamo loro contro.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxt_BmS6Mubxwlsze45Ms-6WZEM0pDxAw86jQnpqo0yeXV12luNXmHgzYPuSZ-pZux0UABK9OnBEkbmE0kzV3hDohgH1SYaYauCnrfJuV9V5tZb23lHVLqp3byERZ4VpdrWvTfXn546MGHQ1kjmwSXZaT36tM0EHOhxpkKlwtHeefw_f3d2flQAIfosRM/s1209/20230726_101830.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxt_BmS6Mubxwlsze45Ms-6WZEM0pDxAw86jQnpqo0yeXV12luNXmHgzYPuSZ-pZux0UABK9OnBEkbmE0kzV3hDohgH1SYaYauCnrfJuV9V5tZb23lHVLqp3byERZ4VpdrWvTfXn546MGHQ1kjmwSXZaT36tM0EHOhxpkKlwtHeefw_f3d2flQAIfosRM/s320/20230726_101830.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-8k5FgxPCfHhKGHheOc3xCDmTvyAyCinqbl5v9IlUUTVVKo2iNdfE4s8R99qt3mKkuqcym8ZzDwYXTfduXFMxWwUM2Eq5MbXL_J5NgQXiHStgjMqnhWu56CXonkN14hxGAchlcDhxwZMD4daIa0E9nBOJTU22FkigEo9a2PvyzLfPpqEHAnGFzJl5DM/s1209/20230726_101837.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-8k5FgxPCfHhKGHheOc3xCDmTvyAyCinqbl5v9IlUUTVVKo2iNdfE4s8R99qt3mKkuqcym8ZzDwYXTfduXFMxWwUM2Eq5MbXL_J5NgQXiHStgjMqnhWu56CXonkN14hxGAchlcDhxwZMD4daIa0E9nBOJTU22FkigEo9a2PvyzLfPpqEHAnGFzJl5DM/s320/20230726_101837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWhVrKUA33hnJ4C8j7gF3-JPe8K1u6NVJpF8a-tWaFzUr1PmAAX-zFIzPHTcD3T1RYCZZsI0MLnlomDbvsh7NESzeQ9F89y5dtsne-vLl2sKCIP7VsmqoQL5p4xY6Z3iMwDEkbAgddl6Ae6TG4wsyD0N667SNBpmDy_Sv_ldgQLf158PIZyz0Kwfsu5xk/s1209/20230726_104124.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWhVrKUA33hnJ4C8j7gF3-JPe8K1u6NVJpF8a-tWaFzUr1PmAAX-zFIzPHTcD3T1RYCZZsI0MLnlomDbvsh7NESzeQ9F89y5dtsne-vLl2sKCIP7VsmqoQL5p4xY6Z3iMwDEkbAgddl6Ae6TG4wsyD0N667SNBpmDy_Sv_ldgQLf158PIZyz0Kwfsu5xk/s320/20230726_104124.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi la salita si fa più ripida, e la strada diventa un colabrodo di buche, crepe, spaccature. Molti tratti sono sterrati, altri completamente invasi da acqua e fango di frane recenti. Pedalare diventa molto, molto faticoso. Anche perchè, oltre a stare attenti al fondo, dobbiamo anche prevedere le manovre di auto e furgoni che, per evitare le buche, passano in mezzo alla strada o sulla corsia opposta al senso di marcia, o là dove si riesce. Per fortuna viaggiano a velocità estremamente ridotta.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2PeQSWBz3-WmNvakgKdj9O-NpM-0JG5DDMWm95Md2Rfsh3Q6CzNkumF5BUdyrXHtVwnW7zdNb3gO6YKc9zHg0JNOAnkye0KnczDz4FZHYJ60gnIsVtcN8ns-mFeJFjmah9MPqs1EdKn-TBAnVNBZGPIPALUXF_6rtyVw2PXOyox7xty0nhe2jAu4SoI/s1209/20230726_113030.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2PeQSWBz3-WmNvakgKdj9O-NpM-0JG5DDMWm95Md2Rfsh3Q6CzNkumF5BUdyrXHtVwnW7zdNb3gO6YKc9zHg0JNOAnkye0KnczDz4FZHYJ60gnIsVtcN8ns-mFeJFjmah9MPqs1EdKn-TBAnVNBZGPIPALUXF_6rtyVw2PXOyox7xty0nhe2jAu4SoI/s320/20230726_113030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQvJ3dknCv0JM4WJ1g0cfaIxz3CL5OxJkKqrS4rTRUDUTCs5oDLx_NS7qNn9t_0e8QRptLjs068eO7WAu34E0JmShmQzZEHqvUiRYbD08f6LpcxPGyyvqVhb7w619bRubnh9vGewzfqXejR02QfW0WvCLxfu7djHzLVj7FbKCgyftywKHuXKLD7tHZv8/s1209/20230726_113037.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQvJ3dknCv0JM4WJ1g0cfaIxz3CL5OxJkKqrS4rTRUDUTCs5oDLx_NS7qNn9t_0e8QRptLjs068eO7WAu34E0JmShmQzZEHqvUiRYbD08f6LpcxPGyyvqVhb7w619bRubnh9vGewzfqXejR02QfW0WvCLxfu7djHzLVj7FbKCgyftywKHuXKLD7tHZv8/s320/20230726_113037.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEqTSxHhMEf8eSRCbrxpsWzZ-9vFyeDJcwFK8oNwdxLNi9P1uGcJRc5nnvTkqvt7rOJ9cihlsdU2Jj9pQsKjvM0l4LsoimNzWrpex6nOmgofecLNKRR4IpucO-B0McZtw0x9RAyNrKmW670Oq1Dwm4oXRlH1bZVIFN9EWMlK_E9ZfSwJvG9yei8yvqxk/s1209/20230726_113453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEqTSxHhMEf8eSRCbrxpsWzZ-9vFyeDJcwFK8oNwdxLNi9P1uGcJRc5nnvTkqvt7rOJ9cihlsdU2Jj9pQsKjvM0l4LsoimNzWrpex6nOmgofecLNKRR4IpucO-B0McZtw0x9RAyNrKmW670Oq1Dwm4oXRlH1bZVIFN9EWMlK_E9ZfSwJvG9yei8yvqxk/s320/20230726_113453.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqod72qhT71ze_xhM8j8XgUycxl7klCd-BUTsoSksxMaOze1Ff8U8coGoYONdoCHhRKvnXaqJHVeqxoHJXRsXQVqUH8XHDBxu3vyIfShqpQ6BYf05DXxPG6gmQAZEGdKrVi3zJyk-ylvG6_T2M8ITeZyoMiWH6sJLYCrDeb1gID-TkDrAH9lsNgcmPlnQ/s1209/20230726_115058.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqod72qhT71ze_xhM8j8XgUycxl7klCd-BUTsoSksxMaOze1Ff8U8coGoYONdoCHhRKvnXaqJHVeqxoHJXRsXQVqUH8XHDBxu3vyIfShqpQ6BYf05DXxPG6gmQAZEGdKrVi3zJyk-ylvG6_T2M8ITeZyoMiWH6sJLYCrDeb1gID-TkDrAH9lsNgcmPlnQ/s320/20230726_115058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo 30km di ascesa ininterrotta facciamo sosta in uno spazio. Abbiamo scorte di acqua e qualcosa da sgranocchiare, e chi godiamo il paesaggio e l'ombra. Siamo immersi nel profumo di resina che esala dai pini. Il sole li trasforma in turiboli e tutto è sacro e pieno di dei delle piccole cose.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBek9MqTB3sjhWv3w2N67hLibtQiERU4mwJVA2GcflhoMhI00IjrVTuYJEVGYGyi1TruWgaz1zODpmfRVOV9gcpxbLU9LwOuTvQOXCmfI39iIZoJ7xuh9lHMxS_UIzsXJxElJYqtNYdgXEw3TT1GZkbpRc7nI3meA9Do6teycTOJD9pJPYtoOHvqo0KA/s1209/20230726_115224.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrBek9MqTB3sjhWv3w2N67hLibtQiERU4mwJVA2GcflhoMhI00IjrVTuYJEVGYGyi1TruWgaz1zODpmfRVOV9gcpxbLU9LwOuTvQOXCmfI39iIZoJ7xuh9lHMxS_UIzsXJxElJYqtNYdgXEw3TT1GZkbpRc7nI3meA9Do6teycTOJD9pJPYtoOHvqo0KA/s320/20230726_115224.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEbu0zvKQZP9WLMCgeN1qZC825AGZczimrxrfCW8rEgmGXokW7GyxfvanWyX5v9akKwK3i9CWdqhNfGxrTFQ6k3x-toxC9ib_TAca2nMRG7N4Yt0ajSuYMNMVmYUz7pq5AdUH3-7RZ-plUMOz7XAY4vVKQbLQXovpyuSFaDR7WVb9R7ogAJxaLPE-VOE/s1209/20230726_115240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEbu0zvKQZP9WLMCgeN1qZC825AGZczimrxrfCW8rEgmGXokW7GyxfvanWyX5v9akKwK3i9CWdqhNfGxrTFQ6k3x-toxC9ib_TAca2nMRG7N4Yt0ajSuYMNMVmYUz7pq5AdUH3-7RZ-plUMOz7XAY4vVKQbLQXovpyuSFaDR7WVb9R7ogAJxaLPE-VOE/s320/20230726_115240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGcrQ7zFRWlWJmcKlUHthvRe7kT5eyQyQtrtEP96-VxH0wpiK_GRThkRZAhejndvE2rov5zyDUCj6iY2UaBmM7PaobELaCjKHhVfU6NT1YAgVf5PIjMHHdqriQviaNPlW0D-ABKUJeqzleTVlZTW4b48UubUugrAOHyni0k4YDP2ydzavNIXy_8-7b61c/s1209/20230726_115324.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGcrQ7zFRWlWJmcKlUHthvRe7kT5eyQyQtrtEP96-VxH0wpiK_GRThkRZAhejndvE2rov5zyDUCj6iY2UaBmM7PaobELaCjKHhVfU6NT1YAgVf5PIjMHHdqriQviaNPlW0D-ABKUJeqzleTVlZTW4b48UubUugrAOHyni0k4YDP2ydzavNIXy_8-7b61c/s320/20230726_115324.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYRIV-dXgdE4lLEr_yJw7UmfERqls-4_1yEHojYk8u0Kh67_VLErIC0NmZUmjTtpxzoKwvWzFOPbf5y1tXiiQW8Dl9n0zlhACVyNNmEAZg00Zlg7G1zK-irZc4Aso0lAcSJzPTHZ_Kl6yerJyjDUj3tkMnuNlJrCEj4kb0WbFtofjPHs9lgCoUuoQvDY/s1209/20230726_115847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYRIV-dXgdE4lLEr_yJw7UmfERqls-4_1yEHojYk8u0Kh67_VLErIC0NmZUmjTtpxzoKwvWzFOPbf5y1tXiiQW8Dl9n0zlhACVyNNmEAZg00Zlg7G1zK-irZc4Aso0lAcSJzPTHZ_Kl6yerJyjDUj3tkMnuNlJrCEj4kb0WbFtofjPHs9lgCoUuoQvDY/s320/20230726_115847.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si riparte per l'ultimo strappo di salita, e la strada diventa sempre più ammalorata, un fiume di fango. Trascinare la bici su e su richiede grande fatica, e chi non ha mai provato non ha idea di cosa io stia parlando. GRANDE fatica.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJUHpx80cVng1DB1Wyena5qC92IReVNHkDpZOFvblqTsSTpKgyyLtE6neQKY0cRCuyQD-vrD99CD-j-ZGYETQ6ycJ26CzJo6gJN8z5TgYK01fx-gbVb74M5Av3VmcP1aNi9DUUdj6bW5Z8hqT_GkDJt2SwakGvitgntz5TLUfbQoZr_9Z5h0-f1tWt_ho/s1209/20230726_124335.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJUHpx80cVng1DB1Wyena5qC92IReVNHkDpZOFvblqTsSTpKgyyLtE6neQKY0cRCuyQD-vrD99CD-j-ZGYETQ6ycJ26CzJo6gJN8z5TgYK01fx-gbVb74M5Av3VmcP1aNi9DUUdj6bW5Z8hqT_GkDJt2SwakGvitgntz5TLUfbQoZr_9Z5h0-f1tWt_ho/s320/20230726_124335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAQZaIlAXs7JZxeVMO1tQYxMOZWA-i7Myu3PHORffATVNpUMZNPJC_GiEGw4w4B5Yi7naZt4WhMvbVhDML6Kl86V27COAJhlOAjW8Mp97u2Mgk6s6KirCLNtHF90CygKP2VNIAU0YskHAwBrcmYMwCF7WUSY95woAewA_or22H8Dzw32u6j8o6v-xrlN4/s1209/20230726_124504.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAQZaIlAXs7JZxeVMO1tQYxMOZWA-i7Myu3PHORffATVNpUMZNPJC_GiEGw4w4B5Yi7naZt4WhMvbVhDML6Kl86V27COAJhlOAjW8Mp97u2Mgk6s6KirCLNtHF90CygKP2VNIAU0YskHAwBrcmYMwCF7WUSY95woAewA_or22H8Dzw32u6j8o6v-xrlN4/s320/20230726_124504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohf89fJDYiFPXvIAhxOtpDHqaGtJ7GfROpUDAfDOtukhDp2cuhNV6RYil_pEMnALEWT26ZMoaTCCGYe2Z1azDLJhjtBI7nivY7mzEGYleDcWi5Eduz1NUYMe0UePT2G_g83TK84HQfB4BHzzhQ9T_gGGx-TiOKuxugu7Q_yTJV9-7U0MpK5qQlIELqzE/s1209/20230726_134822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohf89fJDYiFPXvIAhxOtpDHqaGtJ7GfROpUDAfDOtukhDp2cuhNV6RYil_pEMnALEWT26ZMoaTCCGYe2Z1azDLJhjtBI7nivY7mzEGYleDcWi5Eduz1NUYMe0UePT2G_g83TK84HQfB4BHzzhQ9T_gGGx-TiOKuxugu7Q_yTJV9-7U0MpK5qQlIELqzE/s320/20230726_134822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyvSg-MPuEti0m-sZIIeQ3Wx0M5Da2tqHK86x-2zhKjFdSb11h-NHsXUcJvj1Y_CB-vKf8VlG4psRaHDR6UrZ4qsaOj_aU2Q9ONwseLGhOQe6ZsiiK6xosm4nq_jGBwoqdJAyZaL1QlpLKMkS6n3fC7BS68VRyPeZR_7J2DMCdCpYf-KaU4nM6VzjNtQ/s1209/20230726_134837.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyvSg-MPuEti0m-sZIIeQ3Wx0M5Da2tqHK86x-2zhKjFdSb11h-NHsXUcJvj1Y_CB-vKf8VlG4psRaHDR6UrZ4qsaOj_aU2Q9ONwseLGhOQe6ZsiiK6xosm4nq_jGBwoqdJAyZaL1QlpLKMkS6n3fC7BS68VRyPeZR_7J2DMCdCpYf-KaU4nM6VzjNtQ/s320/20230726_134837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-2ezW9f-gTkABr1UB1l3mydD3PKGa4VyDnXtOCb8dQloCBUE1nmOcUFco2tItz_hls8khy-03YUBv9I8RppKDz1m4geDROnoMgQwj5FwSy_zLBRY-ShpAqHz_QQy5UKluDjS0jYSlIaHLcITZ8sfTfWr4XvUItE6YU3JFIQd5YiOZSDhtC0HuQvvdrQ/s1209/20230726_140302.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-2ezW9f-gTkABr1UB1l3mydD3PKGa4VyDnXtOCb8dQloCBUE1nmOcUFco2tItz_hls8khy-03YUBv9I8RppKDz1m4geDROnoMgQwj5FwSy_zLBRY-ShpAqHz_QQy5UKluDjS0jYSlIaHLcITZ8sfTfWr4XvUItE6YU3JFIQd5YiOZSDhtC0HuQvvdrQ/s320/20230726_140302.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finalmente, e prima del previsto, si scollina. Superati i 2000m di quota, ora viene il momento di scendere. Anche in questa direzione è necessario tenere gli occhi aperti e le mani sui freni, perchè le insidie del fondo, quando si è lanciati a precipizio a 70km/h in discesa, possono rivelarsi letali. Poco oltre il passo incrociamo Santa Caterina Cerro del vidrio. Questo polveroso pueblo segna l'inizio, per noi, del tratto di ruta de la fe che percorreremo oggi e domani. La statale 131, su cui stiamo pedalando, vede ogni anno transitare centinaia di pellegrini, soprattutto in bici e in moto, da Oaxaca a Santa Caterina Juquila. Qui si trova una cinquecentesca statua della Vergine che, a quanto pare, ha compiuto miracoli. In primis sopravvivere, lei sola, a un grande incendio scoppiato per errore nel '600, quando i contadini indigeni, dando fuoco alle sterpaglie, causarono un rogo incontrollato. E' per questo che ci sono frequenti cartelli gialli con il simbolo del ciclista. Siamo su una rotta di pellegrini a due ruote, motorizzate e non. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqfyOQaqSApvUWYDmxEmo3GmgSN5UDibghP3uFs5lIrSM3WtH5KN5yjU0vW164hByzrSBnhgDrskBPHPh9-E4jKjAi48CgaDufbWXWnv4-N7H6lIxoVIHq12Md5cL6y-bZbiDoVPXvxPxcIFlF1ZnfeLEA6-6weNyjukQINpnsmtDvmp_eDzffcdiJVI/s1209/20230726_140418.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqfyOQaqSApvUWYDmxEmo3GmgSN5UDibghP3uFs5lIrSM3WtH5KN5yjU0vW164hByzrSBnhgDrskBPHPh9-E4jKjAi48CgaDufbWXWnv4-N7H6lIxoVIHq12Md5cL6y-bZbiDoVPXvxPxcIFlF1ZnfeLEA6-6weNyjukQINpnsmtDvmp_eDzffcdiJVI/s320/20230726_140418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmEcKpylmxqubzAaSv2F3dB251dUqzkEB-nxTLMmETFTrQb_uQ5mVx74SAiFrP6EeIF0dvqflu-uMKFKd9cn3O6yAUNg18p4HINUErb0ABjgFRGUZpkgm4bayXrJpqESkFV5SgQsFYZQUCHkPZxdDQaWY0DFVeiEeiI6pmHtr8bOgUL3OudPwXDqsrbrw/s1209/20230726_140920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmEcKpylmxqubzAaSv2F3dB251dUqzkEB-nxTLMmETFTrQb_uQ5mVx74SAiFrP6EeIF0dvqflu-uMKFKd9cn3O6yAUNg18p4HINUErb0ABjgFRGUZpkgm4bayXrJpqESkFV5SgQsFYZQUCHkPZxdDQaWY0DFVeiEeiI6pmHtr8bOgUL3OudPwXDqsrbrw/s320/20230726_140920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWsexE_pYC9s29zqalzXWrtps0hH60m5q8eOgVmZ8plNbvBwDfczYrEw-JzpUNADS8ajfW8SfCWRAODaL9b2UsJ0nG-7fFMw4fBbmCqRHriog9vrbdGgyNKHLELYCA4192M-ATVb5Md6_kKcIg1-TrdnuTFhMYO9Z_EelpYc3RAxENG6_viSZ9Cw8qiA/s1209/20230726_140924.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWsexE_pYC9s29zqalzXWrtps0hH60m5q8eOgVmZ8plNbvBwDfczYrEw-JzpUNADS8ajfW8SfCWRAODaL9b2UsJ0nG-7fFMw4fBbmCqRHriog9vrbdGgyNKHLELYCA4192M-ATVb5Md6_kKcIg1-TrdnuTFhMYO9Z_EelpYc3RAxENG6_viSZ9Cw8qiA/s320/20230726_140924.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQ7s7K6lhislg31_AGieFHRpUFl3T0SfPAWsmGBnjbN5VsIhgJ12_17CNLJjYArwk7pVoK1-myLiM9DEkrgfhm9SNB-90UD8po-ZH6nGxF2dhqmbp7h3CIrnM5WUlbIQNj_BTetpvF5ETbztKr8EpQEOEvnlFy2urvK2_4S-Zpo_3-LBtOQPaVT4E9No/s1209/20230726_140934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOQ7s7K6lhislg31_AGieFHRpUFl3T0SfPAWsmGBnjbN5VsIhgJ12_17CNLJjYArwk7pVoK1-myLiM9DEkrgfhm9SNB-90UD8po-ZH6nGxF2dhqmbp7h3CIrnM5WUlbIQNj_BTetpvF5ETbztKr8EpQEOEvnlFy2urvK2_4S-Zpo_3-LBtOQPaVT4E9No/s320/20230726_140934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6Lf17bIyYhp8LrXON_IOf7e026np882HxEELsQhCet_S6cip9TDXBX5XVQNoV4wjmBubNt1VZzGcpjHAuMOeI4Sp7saC-FRSlQATIPZwBFsl7txg2Ccji-NsJpReJejf2sOzBEnTqi8O31JUFFDGvkQE54g7KAQeVniL3yeMib65u04DH7E1JPXkDVY/s1209/20230726_141007.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6Lf17bIyYhp8LrXON_IOf7e026np882HxEELsQhCet_S6cip9TDXBX5XVQNoV4wjmBubNt1VZzGcpjHAuMOeI4Sp7saC-FRSlQATIPZwBFsl7txg2Ccji-NsJpReJejf2sOzBEnTqi8O31JUFFDGvkQE54g7KAQeVniL3yeMib65u04DH7E1JPXkDVY/s320/20230726_141007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I restanti quasi 30km di tappa sono puro godimento di discesa, tra valloni e cime verdi e azzurre nella distanza. Il fondo migliora un poco, anche se richiede grande attenzione in alcuni tratti. Leggerò poi che ci sono tanti articoli di giornali locali che denunciano le condizioni pietose di una strada. Ma non perchè sia una statale che collega città, no; perchè i pellegrini si arroccolano!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vIMF7-G0XurdiBV_35QWDMkjgOTki0nbWqwMGAcmvh47EZdttiSeZxtSNcyaXXpXhHyjRzHCUWFdDPfl9SUClarc-DnXqXMjdbffAwc_zsDsCv6F5sUFYloj6IxgPICQzqQPA4jLlT4WAXKUqAlUwxL_1QQdju2mPHV_fBqXHMHLuffi05_X42nD8bI/s1209/20230726_141326.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vIMF7-G0XurdiBV_35QWDMkjgOTki0nbWqwMGAcmvh47EZdttiSeZxtSNcyaXXpXhHyjRzHCUWFdDPfl9SUClarc-DnXqXMjdbffAwc_zsDsCv6F5sUFYloj6IxgPICQzqQPA4jLlT4WAXKUqAlUwxL_1QQdju2mPHV_fBqXHMHLuffi05_X42nD8bI/s320/20230726_141326.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjqOjpZAt9icsDDDJXzIFjc9Xh87ymM0wrEv7uqh6gAhXVlA_YqXuONiumWAMq1tQl52Oic7fXVAHMn6KdGv4xrocJ-ml0SJrcLTm8Ez3zaGDLtxH9Cu-lFvsK_lJojLjkae1KvN-BVn4q1yeIlRacWupzY35dDgyabExoHi8PDCmNUyN4DPKN3_5wnQ/s1209/20230726_141507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjqOjpZAt9icsDDDJXzIFjc9Xh87ymM0wrEv7uqh6gAhXVlA_YqXuONiumWAMq1tQl52Oic7fXVAHMn6KdGv4xrocJ-ml0SJrcLTm8Ez3zaGDLtxH9Cu-lFvsK_lJojLjkae1KvN-BVn4q1yeIlRacWupzY35dDgyabExoHi8PDCmNUyN4DPKN3_5wnQ/s320/20230726_141507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLCuoW6uxlcd-UT0QvjagWzDczF5dEHtm2Ar9Twz-EB0jrpHMWo4rZ3qS4mWwlJhph6fbBNaYIzj1xkN-JHgWycL2aMCY1H7q_e4KEdvxblmIpj3CY0ye_Ot_4t7-JG5PbPGvxG-GXFi0y_KCx1JmjRN9hs5LBXvebD1ZLPcjpNhJDEq2iUtTrCWxsxRg/s1209/20230726_141626.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLCuoW6uxlcd-UT0QvjagWzDczF5dEHtm2Ar9Twz-EB0jrpHMWo4rZ3qS4mWwlJhph6fbBNaYIzj1xkN-JHgWycL2aMCY1H7q_e4KEdvxblmIpj3CY0ye_Ot_4t7-JG5PbPGvxG-GXFi0y_KCx1JmjRN9hs5LBXvebD1ZLPcjpNhJDEq2iUtTrCWxsxRg/s320/20230726_141626.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzKAxWa6ZjvoYGB3xHLzEWWS1wU5eePSClbsaiga1kgxdPjFpGzAiVm0ql60Fwl3RAY8KN_yX7hsQMOOmqHY1AZVgfCcaaOtuTzgynZWVyhuoypk5P2gExQ11oe0bo2aGEqOQVdX1DGptf3L4sUyZo3suPHUW2pJiL3aVJYo_Mumb7erbWN4zzVVjHP7w/s1209/20230726_142217.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzKAxWa6ZjvoYGB3xHLzEWWS1wU5eePSClbsaiga1kgxdPjFpGzAiVm0ql60Fwl3RAY8KN_yX7hsQMOOmqHY1AZVgfCcaaOtuTzgynZWVyhuoypk5P2gExQ11oe0bo2aGEqOQVdX1DGptf3L4sUyZo3suPHUW2pJiL3aVJYo_Mumb7erbWN4zzVVjHP7w/s320/20230726_142217.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq4u6bEYc8Wr2BRkQ5ole3BXcd_t0Sxm2Uo-IicTzZ2Fy2J23l38fGSryrhP0XuPhlyZ-w-BKxzHf890JVVFgmNQVLH2OU5bPjPWdyR9sS-PeNy39qjppbHjJw2jpQUAfHvYIZgYqdlev61_pR3ePWAO4SL5xlg0clPl8NDMnVYh-gGpz_MQty2gRplZQ/s1600/IMG-20230726-WA0017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq4u6bEYc8Wr2BRkQ5ole3BXcd_t0Sxm2Uo-IicTzZ2Fy2J23l38fGSryrhP0XuPhlyZ-w-BKxzHf890JVVFgmNQVLH2OU5bPjPWdyR9sS-PeNy39qjppbHjJw2jpQUAfHvYIZgYqdlev61_pR3ePWAO4SL5xlg0clPl8NDMnVYh-gGpz_MQty2gRplZQ/s320/IMG-20230726-WA0017.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_bj7BH1yK2MIUXtUxe7JiZVRxszxlWjxU0GpSEP7uMddzBUIlCRA3e2m7EvdHiQYoHsSF5MjG3Mkz6Ra8JgL51b_i_8atj6HyaK0eU-gXwFT7D_iZs-B4BXnQ-xgM89hD0xbzmI1CSz9Lguo0lypoxYLWUIwKt9rWFGdllanHXtVdNEghJORNrha8kjU/s1209/20230726_142424.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_bj7BH1yK2MIUXtUxe7JiZVRxszxlWjxU0GpSEP7uMddzBUIlCRA3e2m7EvdHiQYoHsSF5MjG3Mkz6Ra8JgL51b_i_8atj6HyaK0eU-gXwFT7D_iZs-B4BXnQ-xgM89hD0xbzmI1CSz9Lguo0lypoxYLWUIwKt9rWFGdllanHXtVdNEghJORNrha8kjU/s320/20230726_142424.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFI5DTp4Z_G2onliOMZiJgLiA1SvfuFUj67694m1yLjyEhEeNNvDeiFxwZhDEx3xghRDU4Z6DGk8a-E8gn302D9Qdy6PpE4SX6kzLyiys09snKjPpjAcw-WY4cAq_2w-PxVtVjnW7sV0GNRz4i9S8cC1jY3F4mJH5kC8vLsnr6iysaqM1l20X23Sp9OA/s1209/20230726_143230.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFI5DTp4Z_G2onliOMZiJgLiA1SvfuFUj67694m1yLjyEhEeNNvDeiFxwZhDEx3xghRDU4Z6DGk8a-E8gn302D9Qdy6PpE4SX6kzLyiys09snKjPpjAcw-WY4cAq_2w-PxVtVjnW7sV0GNRz4i9S8cC1jY3F4mJH5kC8vLsnr6iysaqM1l20X23Sp9OA/s320/20230726_143230.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">avvoltoio</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUHGF8bnRSXPEAzr5nTgvUEIVGgqnxG7NmAb8xt9YIQ3UoXBwtuDf1l08lt6sScDQbrCbDcNYTxTelqG5QmmkXKoK-sewUbli-S9k56ClEh5-3w57IybdMNGpi7Zo9yXTuvYoD1krUljJZCpHHr1Fowwj2-dK5XSq5HHwVpE2bG2_WbhF7r7OwXTlqR-o/s1209/20230726_143253.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUHGF8bnRSXPEAzr5nTgvUEIVGgqnxG7NmAb8xt9YIQ3UoXBwtuDf1l08lt6sScDQbrCbDcNYTxTelqG5QmmkXKoK-sewUbli-S9k56ClEh5-3w57IybdMNGpi7Zo9yXTuvYoD1krUljJZCpHHr1Fowwj2-dK5XSq5HHwVpE2bG2_WbhF7r7OwXTlqR-o/s320/20230726_143253.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgboanMG78wcToGlph20S6f3E-ahaZqYDmikydrVckFKuzCi985Uydj5o0ydCwJrmlpXZR1ltnHhIkL7lrsCN4_EpqbAWf9sNOGAAI72vFcViW3e43kd1ROxyrcm5ds7vKtjXYeLjwgLqGWlQsUEzp_MwbSB_fMw4QgQ17jWEQt8kwX6_3FeKKiSALv_cE/s1209/20230726_143305.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgboanMG78wcToGlph20S6f3E-ahaZqYDmikydrVckFKuzCi985Uydj5o0ydCwJrmlpXZR1ltnHhIkL7lrsCN4_EpqbAWf9sNOGAAI72vFcViW3e43kd1ROxyrcm5ds7vKtjXYeLjwgLqGWlQsUEzp_MwbSB_fMw4QgQ17jWEQt8kwX6_3FeKKiSALv_cE/s320/20230726_143305.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tanti avvoltoi</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu01d00uMaG-muFa0X8m_bTBfdUNGCmVDWO7KhHvp-uTcix5INK3BvpZNyP55gL7I2_QRkRduSxU3gbR3yL8DgBvKSfbSOUX34ugCtfg6Bv5ET54CnpQhfRHI7MnThA3InzqhEyfYmPFM_h7DiYGIyAR7k1BB0NGPZMh9FtZY4b7FUz4twAcYM44jPBK8/s1209/20230726_143319.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu01d00uMaG-muFa0X8m_bTBfdUNGCmVDWO7KhHvp-uTcix5INK3BvpZNyP55gL7I2_QRkRduSxU3gbR3yL8DgBvKSfbSOUX34ugCtfg6Bv5ET54CnpQhfRHI7MnThA3InzqhEyfYmPFM_h7DiYGIyAR7k1BB0NGPZMh9FtZY4b7FUz4twAcYM44jPBK8/s320/20230726_143319.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0wu921IY4xgG1Px3cj3quoOoKlXzZE7chAMQrVJBk6_xHzIOpxvRaG7LDFvUtdtakEpkJmj0j84xD3kCYnJb0buF4ohzCbyx389WX9hLdwhR9kDo0YnJaYKWHYGs3jvaSMet3Xd1vVxgya72puB1kHR8d2LdeGWRUnlQ5pdtJP6sg4qY_SYdXdU_c4k/s1209/20230726_143345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0wu921IY4xgG1Px3cj3quoOoKlXzZE7chAMQrVJBk6_xHzIOpxvRaG7LDFvUtdtakEpkJmj0j84xD3kCYnJb0buF4ohzCbyx389WX9hLdwhR9kDo0YnJaYKWHYGs3jvaSMet3Xd1vVxgya72puB1kHR8d2LdeGWRUnlQ5pdtJP6sg4qY_SYdXdU_c4k/s320/20230726_143345.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZuzUMgH_d6q9myHIOIi_DhuaBKUyfKnmNRXBTj0Ujkxnjq3ZNcYvgu2y9esu5yMN5CQCXy0sYoP5adoAaPhm5wtRVkO7ZF5pKcz_z1NPXi1XC_js4hByEqZJKtv8uNUIAv8zCkE3P2p94Pp48mED9MF1_F9LkRIDleqbbBVh1hrH7QV50A0og_vY_fY/s1209/20230726_144423.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZuzUMgH_d6q9myHIOIi_DhuaBKUyfKnmNRXBTj0Ujkxnjq3ZNcYvgu2y9esu5yMN5CQCXy0sYoP5adoAaPhm5wtRVkO7ZF5pKcz_z1NPXi1XC_js4hByEqZJKtv8uNUIAv8zCkE3P2p94Pp48mED9MF1_F9LkRIDleqbbBVh1hrH7QV50A0og_vY_fY/s320/20230726_144423.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7qHDzQBU8GVNCcNP1Z_sU5hwFc7k5R3-w8g04cfWHZ3XyPbDtwqmEWfHOhB-HV7wnpXklkvOs0LjQ8hfUXWRWslkqcLKYMftUsq8Tjo1s86cEQxPS86pV99oOgYDJahIQOkse9ofOjGK-SG2C32vCdybJL83_eCqaZ0MIgoHae3U8eRmMxQ685Ye_Zcg/s1209/20230726_144426.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7qHDzQBU8GVNCcNP1Z_sU5hwFc7k5R3-w8g04cfWHZ3XyPbDtwqmEWfHOhB-HV7wnpXklkvOs0LjQ8hfUXWRWslkqcLKYMftUsq8Tjo1s86cEQxPS86pV99oOgYDJahIQOkse9ofOjGK-SG2C32vCdybJL83_eCqaZ0MIgoHae3U8eRmMxQ685Ye_Zcg/s320/20230726_144426.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPwGjlNxjzOoqKhFnNPdtM5LU3kQz9GLLyH1toY7A_-QvqIbWDZep7xB1KEo3ukzHOi89sGL708mJGtTeAOZOzs_n6dpJpNTuYVgejbqJfKAFXL4MAa3R6o2k37Qbb0KKgY-r1spgMMbpwcFXXjBjMsAhnEMbB3QKrmV67vFZgDJNYN5nhN4zoalV6jk/s1209/20230726_144444.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPwGjlNxjzOoqKhFnNPdtM5LU3kQz9GLLyH1toY7A_-QvqIbWDZep7xB1KEo3ukzHOi89sGL708mJGtTeAOZOzs_n6dpJpNTuYVgejbqJfKAFXL4MAa3R6o2k37Qbb0KKgY-r1spgMMbpwcFXXjBjMsAhnEMbB3QKrmV67vFZgDJNYN5nhN4zoalV6jk/s320/20230726_144444.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSAbVHbXUmfMqseqk0dPrpdl3IhPGYFbe6sasFPXuSJGyzKM7TagarHePGMmETQfj_gsRqBcAFUCpwpSMfkD41KO0yQTDFeJE2jWv4q934LG7zZW4AZtqkKugJUnYK4AQAAP2fZWufWXod4x4hoeW2bNfnFwmDupFX-_PmiMzEAOoYeitM5VYKC63Pto/s1209/20230726_144619.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGSAbVHbXUmfMqseqk0dPrpdl3IhPGYFbe6sasFPXuSJGyzKM7TagarHePGMmETQfj_gsRqBcAFUCpwpSMfkD41KO0yQTDFeJE2jWv4q934LG7zZW4AZtqkKugJUnYK4AQAAP2fZWufWXod4x4hoeW2bNfnFwmDupFX-_PmiMzEAOoYeitM5VYKC63Pto/s320/20230726_144619.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una piccola lapide molto discreta a bordo strada</td></tr></tbody></table><br />A 5km dall'arrivo Gigi è riarso dalla sete e ci fermiamo a La luna a ber qualcosa. Ci accolgono due anziani intenti ad accendere il forno a legna esterno, su cui cucinare la tlayuda. Vendono anche cocco fresco e formaggi, oltre ad avere un locale dove peluches enormi di tigri e leoni e orsi si fondono ad altarini de la Virgen e crocifissi.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjPOrGBjLJqt-RNcSjggiYFcZb3jxPhJ5V8FWmJxBjV4BE5FCPpmFXocOiArT-Rz4cEuSuF7OeVE5_Qi-bKA_JSJUIC4PsvS9WtMq4tHwiE2E9dlqmxQ1CaS7fuic1-yn66_tG5jKMQPGHj9WVFc-Su-X_Hsb0GZhDulLX-S3rfcq3VggEhzEduVnEno/s1209/20230726_151021.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjPOrGBjLJqt-RNcSjggiYFcZb3jxPhJ5V8FWmJxBjV4BE5FCPpmFXocOiArT-Rz4cEuSuF7OeVE5_Qi-bKA_JSJUIC4PsvS9WtMq4tHwiE2E9dlqmxQ1CaS7fuic1-yn66_tG5jKMQPGHj9WVFc-Su-X_Hsb0GZhDulLX-S3rfcq3VggEhzEduVnEno/s320/20230726_151021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuLcBDQxnZXx-x5KB7fzIghtqlL3humr4yECJeDukB_oU7Zk1PasQjZn-MI8HJwA8pGHt06lVVcMKaSVpWc3h-R8CekdRmtHNH6zieLGyEsKd8nuYxwsuAjERmBEXZLXBw_TQeTpxyFOkdsqjESKUHJtcAX-M9X7RArHX-as5iwE5R5Trc-eYoGKvrbuo/s1209/20230726_151033.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuLcBDQxnZXx-x5KB7fzIghtqlL3humr4yECJeDukB_oU7Zk1PasQjZn-MI8HJwA8pGHt06lVVcMKaSVpWc3h-R8CekdRmtHNH6zieLGyEsKd8nuYxwsuAjERmBEXZLXBw_TQeTpxyFOkdsqjESKUHJtcAX-M9X7RArHX-as5iwE5R5Trc-eYoGKvrbuo/s320/20230726_151033.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK4Xyp9j9qX9XGrLrOqFRv8yR-bP0haNBp72OSUMCrTxrq6OrOrBrZ9aWInj5h_lMRnCbPy2WSEkRom0W19rd5cr8pQOtb2USWEV-yOqtT2OP-84KBivYhjQ41HFE_p_ZazODqUaAR_zMDKjvuiz5ybMqZuH9_irE8yTMOIdKP5XeNo98x39CbDnhAoNw/s1209/20230726_152114.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK4Xyp9j9qX9XGrLrOqFRv8yR-bP0haNBp72OSUMCrTxrq6OrOrBrZ9aWInj5h_lMRnCbPy2WSEkRom0W19rd5cr8pQOtb2USWEV-yOqtT2OP-84KBivYhjQ41HFE_p_ZazODqUaAR_zMDKjvuiz5ybMqZuH9_irE8yTMOIdKP5XeNo98x39CbDnhAoNw/s320/20230726_152114.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig4omwHh3Os5ImsEFOB61xj3PZTEfeEcIYofciXBJrLjm5E_hQiv5X9pF6qPMZsJ9uXwGqPbYAcUiM9m5K9QXhEbqELgyJSgoyh1exiHfj3omyVNuiIzwBLmbvGfN-pHypGFdmTRMGEbAwmQLzxsqkZgT0ekSiFwAHWW49OzjJlDBcojVfLNhJr2HwKpY/s1209/20230726_152132.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig4omwHh3Os5ImsEFOB61xj3PZTEfeEcIYofciXBJrLjm5E_hQiv5X9pF6qPMZsJ9uXwGqPbYAcUiM9m5K9QXhEbqELgyJSgoyh1exiHfj3omyVNuiIzwBLmbvGfN-pHypGFdmTRMGEbAwmQLzxsqkZgT0ekSiFwAHWW49OzjJlDBcojVfLNhJr2HwKpY/s320/20230726_152132.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ultimo volo, ci siamo quasi. Ogni casa ha un'insegna che invita a usare il bagno a 5 pesos, alcuni affittano posti letto, tanti vendono bevande fresche e snack. Il pellegrinaggio qui è un vero e proprio business!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioH7QSgguMXGMZP2X1kUVnXNozHvmUkQ6aAie5KMJdOPYf_197oIXS2C1YIkpqMLsdRRtpf5j5Ava-l9vsnTD_PnzhVYbCWlimqOVR2xiwO8JhUGM_iFo3FFyOWtG-HOYyvCXsskBW1WsxaXsZIY16pQaCuYOInSu4pE5qYhm8WvNoWykD8O1f1gsDNQY/s1209/20230726_152810.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioH7QSgguMXGMZP2X1kUVnXNozHvmUkQ6aAie5KMJdOPYf_197oIXS2C1YIkpqMLsdRRtpf5j5Ava-l9vsnTD_PnzhVYbCWlimqOVR2xiwO8JhUGM_iFo3FFyOWtG-HOYyvCXsskBW1WsxaXsZIY16pQaCuYOInSu4pE5qYhm8WvNoWykD8O1f1gsDNQY/s320/20230726_152810.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilaWYTVEwDH0i70C4ljohVSeVALQkUhf7m22Hy-cc6l_X2LOzaf0qHqRXR0s28WnU6UMenZcmKwMByp2nOamip0QMntU7mCWRlS-84EtCxs_tCVWXTUkgV-Fy3UHmaiQtoulVm8rTD__7VJQNGvkZEyZC_PgzzerI5v0I2FFYtf8we-4vP5uEF3RiWAr4/s1209/20230726_152817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilaWYTVEwDH0i70C4ljohVSeVALQkUhf7m22Hy-cc6l_X2LOzaf0qHqRXR0s28WnU6UMenZcmKwMByp2nOamip0QMntU7mCWRlS-84EtCxs_tCVWXTUkgV-Fy3UHmaiQtoulVm8rTD__7VJQNGvkZEyZC_PgzzerI5v0I2FFYtf8we-4vP5uEF3RiWAr4/s320/20230726_152817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1w5sZAIbuZqL0cNAzJs4oLCe8saah1xfFzD72ubwp5d1fApS1nsRmz2UMTKLI8o1KKEj229yIrPA4eAzJK7YGp1B39I6sFUCsLnRi_3AUiKkvX9v86YBsKsjdUHB9E3pdSOkum436XR36G5hVLjD5XR9FguUBt5PUgkXO4GWumPyrJuEdVzjVZ0cjqpc/s1209/20230726_153421.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1w5sZAIbuZqL0cNAzJs4oLCe8saah1xfFzD72ubwp5d1fApS1nsRmz2UMTKLI8o1KKEj229yIrPA4eAzJK7YGp1B39I6sFUCsLnRi_3AUiKkvX9v86YBsKsjdUHB9E3pdSOkum436XR36G5hVLjD5XR9FguUBt5PUgkXO4GWumPyrJuEdVzjVZ0cjqpc/s320/20230726_153421.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkaXQUxHONModkosP8Zz527--SLgfEEU1iRNWlc79My0sHqnTRCJC-YiqVkJmNQFMjS6XfzRpbqaYlVi-rOUsKKcI_Cd8VrBw51WLKeBgpE-5bR2q-9VYsKsiyGrjsG62cUOAgseX7Yh-aRiiqtwLj0FvSztJIAbdOCtZKJ7qf80bAlilhqxQFBXVUHQ/s1209/20230726_153522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkaXQUxHONModkosP8Zz527--SLgfEEU1iRNWlc79My0sHqnTRCJC-YiqVkJmNQFMjS6XfzRpbqaYlVi-rOUsKKcI_Cd8VrBw51WLKeBgpE-5bR2q-9VYsKsiyGrjsG62cUOAgseX7Yh-aRiiqtwLj0FvSztJIAbdOCtZKJ7qf80bAlilhqxQFBXVUHQ/s320/20230726_153522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Eccoci alfine a San Pedro Juchatengo. Siamo ridiscesi a 850m di quota. Domani dovremo risalire a 2200m, che spreco di dislivelli! Ma ci penseremo a tempo debito. Ora la città ci accoglie con il suo mercato turistico che vende prodotti locali (caffè, tabacco, mezcal, latticini vari, frutta e verdura).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7MMruOSS1Q9p8lGu48a9Ym4ptoPCQbSGiH7BVsOWqlWx-arYxs6bBTDUSJy9ogzvs5w32_mvdYi2KlGViN5W2gemR8M3VBNGTHCgyxYTPiYYlE0rWixJEXudqyWBhgsY6EdQ_U697lqUxic4mbSRvydElZBBNCMZbI3y4Yv9-tRzn6Bhn7nHR_sIbAg/s1209/20230726_154235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7MMruOSS1Q9p8lGu48a9Ym4ptoPCQbSGiH7BVsOWqlWx-arYxs6bBTDUSJy9ogzvs5w32_mvdYi2KlGViN5W2gemR8M3VBNGTHCgyxYTPiYYlE0rWixJEXudqyWBhgsY6EdQ_U697lqUxic4mbSRvydElZBBNCMZbI3y4Yv9-tRzn6Bhn7nHR_sIbAg/s320/20230726_154235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUkAXOdh0Rp9_csQRMyf8HxZl869voB5Nrk7gt005L2kdaLjHKY1isMmXpesGFfgpj_iyu7pu4a8Tom9sCqX_y9zEMApdaK30ye9AysSwzdzQRr1WpTVRcC-WSQVMfAKj8N9dtHfgLspXZTkpowIIAz9tPHuD8lNKKQbInqUECz8rvy1zHo26AnlxExfE/s1209/20230726_154237.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUkAXOdh0Rp9_csQRMyf8HxZl869voB5Nrk7gt005L2kdaLjHKY1isMmXpesGFfgpj_iyu7pu4a8Tom9sCqX_y9zEMApdaK30ye9AysSwzdzQRr1WpTVRcC-WSQVMfAKj8N9dtHfgLspXZTkpowIIAz9tPHuD8lNKKQbInqUECz8rvy1zHo26AnlxExfE/s320/20230726_154237.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prendiamo una stanza al Rivo Hotel, struttura che offre camere, un buon ristorante di cucina locale aperto 24 ore, un negozio di alimentari abbastanza fornito e una ampia serie di altari e altarini della Madonna, i più con cestino a lato, zeppo di soldi. Insomma, c'è tutto quello che ci serve a anche di più! La connessione internet è a pagamento, a parte. In paese i telefono non prendono e l'hotel offre la wifi a tutta la cittadina... A 10 pesos l'ora, con sconti per la giornata intera o la settimana e il mese.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdz6if59CwsDV2kpplTy6PUEHbM2OcmZdMH2nCQLtmv-65DlENuiLSLfsl0ovNkXvb9GJCFUJAIuTKclau01-KFHIEW-uaFrz_7CDsMcKX6PEBjAgZMk8fj9CPFI0ZOOOptJwRyfI_ffcYOrpmzdSFombx_4_e7CyRpN7uCg7t4ibw4HSHJwSi5F5_rAI/s1209/20230726_154749.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdz6if59CwsDV2kpplTy6PUEHbM2OcmZdMH2nCQLtmv-65DlENuiLSLfsl0ovNkXvb9GJCFUJAIuTKclau01-KFHIEW-uaFrz_7CDsMcKX6PEBjAgZMk8fj9CPFI0ZOOOptJwRyfI_ffcYOrpmzdSFombx_4_e7CyRpN7uCg7t4ibw4HSHJwSi5F5_rAI/s320/20230726_154749.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYOqxuSK8VFfnYlF7n268vkkgRM46TwEhpOE0PWv7T8eXSOMkTZdIVLrMhdNJKGxhPwxBOo7WHp__tvierc4gncjkuxeok8diKfFeddJ-Zipdrnkz7HXArIgQuZ2_stEsIalG9QZ--1aBgKrO-JX7XwSw6CNFcrj7pnl0VmNHFg17ltGmepOCYb_pBzg/s1209/20230726_184717.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYOqxuSK8VFfnYlF7n268vkkgRM46TwEhpOE0PWv7T8eXSOMkTZdIVLrMhdNJKGxhPwxBOo7WHp__tvierc4gncjkuxeok8diKfFeddJ-Zipdrnkz7HXArIgQuZ2_stEsIalG9QZ--1aBgKrO-JX7XwSw6CNFcrj7pnl0VmNHFg17ltGmepOCYb_pBzg/s320/20230726_184717.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il quadro che decora la nostra camera. L'inquietudine che mi provoca.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQzfa4t-0XJulJoElpXQKB9SoqweKlhUO6NephhLCEjewTfkyMrJyhds6aLb_rDeHsDAwaXSe0LjhmwLJcU5WmY_JWkHs5YY4uVWim5iO59WUnRV7ZW59tIrot9Q8-_HfoR6Y3j2jw_ztSBmteIxbMfRqhhnjHehgBfc5VMoEzY50kpZuQlaPOwS8guM/s1209/20230726_191451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQzfa4t-0XJulJoElpXQKB9SoqweKlhUO6NephhLCEjewTfkyMrJyhds6aLb_rDeHsDAwaXSe0LjhmwLJcU5WmY_JWkHs5YY4uVWim5iO59WUnRV7ZW59tIrot9Q8-_HfoR6Y3j2jw_ztSBmteIxbMfRqhhnjHehgBfc5VMoEzY50kpZuQlaPOwS8guM/s320/20230726_191451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tiHYPEb4VVlU5TwRaG51gjitypsRJMOXJYPHjrvvKgTVDJtqwq1WIwoMHjZvg6UVFLCKCyXZkUurvVHVkDkN-J7S13M-cRGhu3SZ7DE1GW1b7BtDOhqrt-Ih6ksBufUX_8DPsLxayVAmxY20Deiy0dKq-QWyZvWvM0ijOOmzNYMUolyTWS4CmIEnk1s/s1209/20230726_192056.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tiHYPEb4VVlU5TwRaG51gjitypsRJMOXJYPHjrvvKgTVDJtqwq1WIwoMHjZvg6UVFLCKCyXZkUurvVHVkDkN-J7S13M-cRGhu3SZ7DE1GW1b7BtDOhqrt-Ih6ksBufUX_8DPsLxayVAmxY20Deiy0dKq-QWyZvWvM0ijOOmzNYMUolyTWS4CmIEnk1s/s320/20230726_192056.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per cena non manchiamo di onorare il ristorante, che affaccia sulla piazza centrale, e offre tlayudas, quesadillas e huevos revuoltos a prezzi super pop. Ci sfondiamo di cibo, perchè oggi non abbiamo ancora fatto un pasto vero e proprio e siamo affamati. In tv vanno a tutto volume telenovelas messicane che meriterebbe uno studio sociologico a parte. I tavoli sono occupati da autisti di colectivos e dai loro passeggeri. Stanno salendo al santuario, ma la sosta cena è più importante di qualsiasi madonnina dei miracoli.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWLrXy0UlQ2l27-VbcirJoP1DiqaMCD8VfMpjRgkjRNNBtqKfXKZFnPCkiGPASsZMFX66NMsCx6AJZvXQySaOFq9Q9R-9m0CigiCN5qA48icCjRIvwUeXzsZlPgI3rNOkx2tH4RT3P4wc2uwoyeLSb1RrqesIBbpRjs4FEaldZ3Mxg7cFL-7IxNJk6nDE/s1209/20230726_193033.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWLrXy0UlQ2l27-VbcirJoP1DiqaMCD8VfMpjRgkjRNNBtqKfXKZFnPCkiGPASsZMFX66NMsCx6AJZvXQySaOFq9Q9R-9m0CigiCN5qA48icCjRIvwUeXzsZlPgI3rNOkx2tH4RT3P4wc2uwoyeLSb1RrqesIBbpRjs4FEaldZ3Mxg7cFL-7IxNJk6nDE/s320/20230726_193033.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQIsld_IE-sSsmVNdLPa5-orHdVfJZCfEg3VVml1RnwczQkTuoEE4sYQh09K7wL-U7TiSar99gHCiCAWMsDgA2nOsYGpBr0IvMiXiYf-eK7gF2mESyuBNHZRtwN5MjiLIq90YsTsjXrF94MurIMqqNAbA0DWxlxI4os3M-CF8jY-r-ooAp6BCiOuzmcQ/s1209/20230726_195643.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQIsld_IE-sSsmVNdLPa5-orHdVfJZCfEg3VVml1RnwczQkTuoEE4sYQh09K7wL-U7TiSar99gHCiCAWMsDgA2nOsYGpBr0IvMiXiYf-eK7gF2mESyuBNHZRtwN5MjiLIq90YsTsjXrF94MurIMqqNAbA0DWxlxI4os3M-CF8jY-r-ooAp6BCiOuzmcQ/s320/20230726_195643.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Mentre ceniamo vediamo sfilare in strada un breve corteo di pellegrini, quasi tutti in moto tranne un paio di ciclisti. In testa alla colonna un furgone con il cassone trasparente che trasporta nientepopodimenoche la Virgen de Juquila in persona, illuminata a festa. E' tutto uno sclacsonare e un ammiccare di abbaglianti. I nostri commensali finiscono in fretta le loro portate e si caricano sui furgoni per accodarsi ai pellegrini. Una cameriera, che avrà dieci anni e già zampetta su tacchi di una certa importanza, accende un cero davanti a tutti gli altari del ristorante e dell'hotel. La giornata si chiude così, letteralmente in un amen.<div><br /></div><div>Domani ci aspettano 33km di salita e 17 di discesa, in una tappa brevis che serve a spezzare distanze e dislivelli. Oaxaca dista da qui ormai solo 130km. Non fosse per le due cime da 2000m (abbondanti) che dobbiamo affrontare, potremmo arrivarci in una sola giornata. Ma la montagna impone pazienza. Quindi ci fermeremo a Villa sola de Vega, sempre sulla ruta de la fe. Questo paese è noto per la produzione di un mezcal particolare, fatto con un'agave che cresce spontanea solo in quella valle. Sarà la volta che ci prendiamo una sonora storta alcolica?</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>27/7<br /><div style="text-align: justify;">San Pedro Juchatengo - Villa sola de Vega</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;">51km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La tappa di oggi è breve a raccontarsi quanto è stata faticosa e lenta da pedalare. 50km sono una distanza, ciclisticamente parlando, ridicola. A casa non sto nemmeno a uscire se so di non poter pedalare almeno 50km, che è la misura minima, il giro classico infrasettimanale di un paio d'ore. Ma oggi abbiamo impiegato, brevissime sostine comprese, sette ore per coprire questo spazio che pareva breve. E di queste 7 ore, 6 son servite per scalare i 35km di salita, stavolta ripida abbastanza da metterci alla prova, e una per scendere i restanti 16km. Immaginate la lentezza. Quanto possa dilatarsi il tempo, quanto lunghi possano essere 10 metri. Credo che la forza necessaria per affrontare questo tipo di viaggi sia tutta qui. Non è potenza muscolare, non è fisicità. Quella conta in minima parte. E' resistenza mentale. Capacità di sopportazione. "Perfer et obdura. Dolor hic tibi proderit olim..." diceva Ovidio. Resisti e sopporta, questo dolore un giorno ti gioverà. Il giorno è anche già oggi, non serve aspettare. Oggi e per sempre, perchè l'esperienza è una delle poche cose che restano. Sarò della scuola del pathei mathos, per dirla con Eschilo: la conoscenza attraverso la sofferenza. Ma mica solo quella, eh! Che cerchiamo di essere anche goderecci appena si può,</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dunque, stamattina la giornata inizia bene con un caffè caldo per colazione per la prima volta dopo circa un mese. Piccolo grande piacere!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il ristorante dell'albergo è aperto 24 ore, quindi c'è già un discreto andirivieni nonostante sia presto e l'aria sia fresca al punto da richiedere una felpa. Mentre portiamo fuori bici e bagagli, incontriamo due uomini e una donna sulla quarantina vestiti in modo sportivo, due da runner e uno da ciclista. La chiacchiera si innesca spontaneamente. Ci chiedono del viaggio, ci danno informazioni sulla salita che ci attende. Poi spiegano che loro hanno percorso un trail a piedi, salendo e scendendo a Juquila attraverso sentieri sterrati. Quello vestito da ciclista dice che di solito lui fa il pellegrinaggio in bici, ma questa volta ha voluto provare un'esperienza diversa (che lo ha stroncato). Ancora, chiedo se la processione che ho visto passare ieri sia una replica di quella principale che si fa a dicembre. Mi dice che no, quelle sono statue della Madonna identiche a quella del miracolo, costruite dai fedeli delle città di Oaxaca che poi le portano su al santuario, seguendo il loro dono votivo in massa. Ah ecco! Ora è tutto chiaro. Ci salutiamo augurandoci un viaggio sicuro, e partiamo attraversando il fiumicello che attraversa la città.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7S2dpbPPLXQW9ehE9lqlY0IQXwG6CJFY3tbPRqzBX9imXUMPoL_0eYrgh1XYUXAulEMMjQN-fybX9Z3Ux2MxQIuHq2SCYCLVrB4Mqig6mEPWqdJBLnPQ2bmHHH93klDoaNooSGiy4y3VO3JDV0-vMzEdUzAph3L50L6S1rK2TkHKHkxdA0_n7kGCOkKA/s1209/20230727_083138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7S2dpbPPLXQW9ehE9lqlY0IQXwG6CJFY3tbPRqzBX9imXUMPoL_0eYrgh1XYUXAulEMMjQN-fybX9Z3Ux2MxQIuHq2SCYCLVrB4Mqig6mEPWqdJBLnPQ2bmHHH93klDoaNooSGiy4y3VO3JDV0-vMzEdUzAph3L50L6S1rK2TkHKHkxdA0_n7kGCOkKA/s320/20230727_083138.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I primi kilometri scorrono tranquilli, in modo sospettosamente poco impegnativo. La salita è continua ma mai ripida e la strada si snoda a curve sinuose tra pareti di roccia coperte di vegetazione. Anche qui non mancano le frane, i massi rotolati in carreggiata e i tratti di fango, ma, in generale, il fondo rimane buono.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVUpbmMRAFrEd3Z_A5mYKTHgQUd1W5LAoideGRqRHdgcD3J5cXxQHOTWyFGT5agEt9qUEH7Vta1BJoKNS_4xVWdSOm-CgK2YntQhztQ3lAvyqe8H-nPkDt51-d4LCyPe2VNtRDfTw_0TGwdoA8CJmDjT48lyq7VvcFmFohNAf2I7d1vb07iAlt9rx_ZOo/s1209/20230727_084525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVUpbmMRAFrEd3Z_A5mYKTHgQUd1W5LAoideGRqRHdgcD3J5cXxQHOTWyFGT5agEt9qUEH7Vta1BJoKNS_4xVWdSOm-CgK2YntQhztQ3lAvyqe8H-nPkDt51-d4LCyPe2VNtRDfTw_0TGwdoA8CJmDjT48lyq7VvcFmFohNAf2I7d1vb07iAlt9rx_ZOo/s320/20230727_084525.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuD8kKUOFAD0eEUM-uwLsFeGYJWQcA10RfOV2Dg_4QW3JDyRCoSnOhsTv1L3taupfo7TMdU98huDbYa6cwfyxwHpGFDbmfuZclP1SAv2atQOOSkou8kI6dBN09E2HuSIabKLBYVzO43jVYTuY_STfN0W1dUHMcIp6W0gRaW28c_-aT2XHnEpUjDfBzdb8/s1209/20230727_085457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuD8kKUOFAD0eEUM-uwLsFeGYJWQcA10RfOV2Dg_4QW3JDyRCoSnOhsTv1L3taupfo7TMdU98huDbYa6cwfyxwHpGFDbmfuZclP1SAv2atQOOSkou8kI6dBN09E2HuSIabKLBYVzO43jVYTuY_STfN0W1dUHMcIp6W0gRaW28c_-aT2XHnEpUjDfBzdb8/s320/20230727_085457.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhisiRaFxmXajR0X2cMUnycehwyXBdU4qthZbkee2Ycd4jyqwuotvXU28OipFn2jZFSw5Fa9uG9M0abe1K6MOd_XpT3LUsqscWfXnh5WQwkVbP3hD1qDVlyfF9EfZlAq2ts0gL81hmRrkkLVH6wMk5Y8B_vE-PzCjJ1NzyPFkD_U8J0D641vgzxCGM4gM8/s1209/20230727_091846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhisiRaFxmXajR0X2cMUnycehwyXBdU4qthZbkee2Ycd4jyqwuotvXU28OipFn2jZFSw5Fa9uG9M0abe1K6MOd_XpT3LUsqscWfXnh5WQwkVbP3hD1qDVlyfF9EfZlAq2ts0gL81hmRrkkLVH6wMk5Y8B_vE-PzCjJ1NzyPFkD_U8J0D641vgzxCGM4gM8/s320/20230727_091846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ogni manciata di kilometri si incrociano case sparse, che non si possono definire paesi, neanche ini. Di solito c'è una abitazione, corredata poi di bagni esterni, in affitto per i passanti, pollaio, forno e comedor, cioè ristorantino con posti a sedere. Chi abita questi luoghi vive e lavora e passa le giornate in quei pochi metri, tra i cani che vagolano in cerca di cibo, i tacchini d'assalto e, se va grassa, un asinello o due pecore.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7i8Lpl08qO0ch-NdG-O3Fjjjku8fd2Jci2SVbXc-FpGugYo6wxO8M5mlGbdVoqUIcE-69Turns4ydeLLp8U_tkPjqWZBEqmWxyZ395y1Qpw1KxSrvp8QyCVFl5HsdMgNJbao34G0olymDQiaRrxFaF_S96wVldojS8PQF_DR3H9fLIQeqCTVPQyqQlIg/s1209/20230727_092021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7i8Lpl08qO0ch-NdG-O3Fjjjku8fd2Jci2SVbXc-FpGugYo6wxO8M5mlGbdVoqUIcE-69Turns4ydeLLp8U_tkPjqWZBEqmWxyZ395y1Qpw1KxSrvp8QyCVFl5HsdMgNJbao34G0olymDQiaRrxFaF_S96wVldojS8PQF_DR3H9fLIQeqCTVPQyqQlIg/s320/20230727_092021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SZxSO7gyJxlWx74sdF1gk1BRb0euqBN0ct5pQ982gzBL3d17pU9NbzvhMGr7DmSkZZFp0CSK5E3dyo5NrL-106HBCJ7Q5E7xxblLVBFtXbE-xOLAxi-b1AyrO2jb-Jucg7lDRJ1FmmKtHG7KyHV8EnwwyMvnIyQb-ZZoCMDblBa62o0rO-hUstsmXKM/s1209/20230727_094738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2SZxSO7gyJxlWx74sdF1gk1BRb0euqBN0ct5pQ982gzBL3d17pU9NbzvhMGr7DmSkZZFp0CSK5E3dyo5NrL-106HBCJ7Q5E7xxblLVBFtXbE-xOLAxi-b1AyrO2jb-Jucg7lDRJ1FmmKtHG7KyHV8EnwwyMvnIyQb-ZZoCMDblBa62o0rO-hUstsmXKM/s320/20230727_094738.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Continuiamo a salire, ma i kilometri alle spalle aumentano molto più del dislivello. Si prevede già da qui un finale di salita con il botto, perchè la matematica, purtroppo, non è un'opinione e la pendenza presto diventerà un problema. La strada ci conduce a una zona collinare che pare un quadro: le pendenze dolci e verdissime sono punteggiate di campi di agave, coltivata per la produzione di mezcal. Le piante crescono tra i 7 e i 70 per raggiungere la maturità necessaria a distillarle. E il mezcal, qui, è una bebida espirituosa non solo perchè alcolica, ma perchè "spirituale", da rispettare, quasi sacra, che può indurre ad una sorta di trance. Si usa dire da queste parti: "Para todo mal, mezcal. Para todo bien, también". Il 60% del mezcal prodotto in Messico, e le varietà migliori soprattutto, arrivano da qui. In questi giorni ho letto come si prepara: dopo aver rimosso le foglie dell'agave matura (si usano oltre 20 varietà di maguey), il cuore cuoce per diversi giorni su un fuoco di legna, spesso in forni scavati nel terreno. La piña ammorbidita viene poi schiacciata e ridotta in fibre, che fermentano in acqua e nel loro zucchero per tre settimane. Il liquido ottenuto viene poi distillato due volte e si può bere "giovane" o invecchiato. Alcuni sono insaporiti mettendo nelle botti un petto di pollo o tacchina, o con frutta e spezie. Ci sono anche le varietà col verme, il gusano, che è un insetto che si nutre dell'agave. Per vostra informazione: la polvere rossa che si mette sul bordo dei bicchieri di mezcal non è solo sale e peperoncino (come credevo). E' anche farina di gusano, vermi macinati.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-oy1JrQv4VmIrgIsCAw5ZCtkRFKQIuoBLiBfAyvDpXV-vBgao-peppl-CIBn-wlk0ArNSFafYAreqXle2TkvoSv3ZLVMwDzOAzv6EPKSgLObeOJSP6ZwMy0q5gIwS7tsqWC-G1NWvZ0GjxcUjmNDYWag6hNX-YOX84ztcYB6_0iRiuOrk704FZS3jnig/s1209/20230727_095955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-oy1JrQv4VmIrgIsCAw5ZCtkRFKQIuoBLiBfAyvDpXV-vBgao-peppl-CIBn-wlk0ArNSFafYAreqXle2TkvoSv3ZLVMwDzOAzv6EPKSgLObeOJSP6ZwMy0q5gIwS7tsqWC-G1NWvZ0GjxcUjmNDYWag6hNX-YOX84ztcYB6_0iRiuOrk704FZS3jnig/s320/20230727_095955.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">per scattare questa foto mi sono posizionata sotto ad un albero che era PIENO di bruchi verdi e ciccioni appesi a liane di loro bava. Nel tentativo di togliermeli di dosso, ne ho "fatti scoppiare" (sic) tanti, che sono esplosi come brufoli pieni di gelatina verde e appiccicosa che sono riuscita a togliere per bene solo all'arrivo, sotto alla doccia. Mi viene ancora da vomitare.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeessmTBnegpVXBzs-uo2E7d734wTvNuH2so71VmXq9hJj9BQ8_dFWO_2F7hjwnH7DmC4SoMAYxM-Bwg13TKMho621la_xcNpaaWVy0KikV3sQkAK8KrmVSD4spPmbEhesDJ6ktisnncFTwuoNNf2v-z0ESyk6Kgrg7ok2OklxWLObhir-KACa0Pgxd8o/s1209/20230727_100304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeessmTBnegpVXBzs-uo2E7d734wTvNuH2so71VmXq9hJj9BQ8_dFWO_2F7hjwnH7DmC4SoMAYxM-Bwg13TKMho621la_xcNpaaWVy0KikV3sQkAK8KrmVSD4spPmbEhesDJ6ktisnncFTwuoNNf2v-z0ESyk6Kgrg7ok2OklxWLObhir-KACa0Pgxd8o/s320/20230727_100304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsHx97hH0iPtBPRWxFuo6yhU7ot4iXeNPpcG431N9I8fBOCPyLCf0y4UiSHGjbshRST49MfDgbEtUe4XGSgA93tA0k9ZHJaRZDw7kEngLdDrNAQIqTWXQ04sfsSp6dHY1-TIne3uybZ_kaWtW_PlDNSNYeJq1jbRg0-rsHv7ca6tfo17jKzqH4MjJPt1M/s1209/20230727_100538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsHx97hH0iPtBPRWxFuo6yhU7ot4iXeNPpcG431N9I8fBOCPyLCf0y4UiSHGjbshRST49MfDgbEtUe4XGSgA93tA0k9ZHJaRZDw7kEngLdDrNAQIqTWXQ04sfsSp6dHY1-TIne3uybZ_kaWtW_PlDNSNYeJq1jbRg0-rsHv7ca6tfo17jKzqH4MjJPt1M/s320/20230727_100538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaY8QnTp7q5nbnAHb4OHADRcajhnAqoJIgYOmnL1J1S9S366vNAVe8SVXBCp6MKu1vajc3u0t4YwPLrZcmGU9RYCcdD6uVXrqqqAMJ-L88P9QiXP2WjfiUYHnYLp-QYqPt8JZi_4u-PvUgBq4YysgU6EBCH9xQBnhb1i6ezUNZLlq_zhjvJkTxNy7YzBg/s1209/20230727_100546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaY8QnTp7q5nbnAHb4OHADRcajhnAqoJIgYOmnL1J1S9S366vNAVe8SVXBCp6MKu1vajc3u0t4YwPLrZcmGU9RYCcdD6uVXrqqqAMJ-L88P9QiXP2WjfiUYHnYLp-QYqPt8JZi_4u-PvUgBq4YysgU6EBCH9xQBnhb1i6ezUNZLlq_zhjvJkTxNy7YzBg/s320/20230727_100546.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A questo punto incrociamo l'unico pueblo vero e proprio della giornata: San Isidro Ojo de agua. Il nome è molto più grande del paese che, oltretutto, è composto per lo più di case abbandonate. Del pari chiusi e in rovina sono diversi comedor lungo la strada. Si vede che il transito di viaggiatori e pellegrini non è più sufficiente a sostentare tutte queste famiglie, che si trasferiscono nelle cittadine a valle.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh113APpGoMh1MX0e09fX5Vh05HxtvyYCmo-ocdgUtU20lc1KqE5bZvWjJy-oTCMUjcKCCcueWlWHuTmfUeVQ6tz0XENNU91DVDvojduVL1ldjKHWZrbsh2p1DmvOiqHniCQoTItYwErjH_Cx8SGLJfujF-6d_ebiSAzbxzLT1tOMKkVebFiiSxSqqT6PA/s1209/20230727_100957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh113APpGoMh1MX0e09fX5Vh05HxtvyYCmo-ocdgUtU20lc1KqE5bZvWjJy-oTCMUjcKCCcueWlWHuTmfUeVQ6tz0XENNU91DVDvojduVL1ldjKHWZrbsh2p1DmvOiqHniCQoTItYwErjH_Cx8SGLJfujF-6d_ebiSAzbxzLT1tOMKkVebFiiSxSqqT6PA/s320/20230727_100957.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9xdls20riihDi7d0LmkUgfkYkDIrmbLJL9StyZZpE712mk8DyqAOpvk1sTDIqeROqxW2KPlzJ2G5odz1JRYUbvkFH_mVTD_Ah2fqIatHP3N3jkzSIJgUlQNIgaeF9UUVo99jGWELOaCfLDuWvHjGlvp_Av_VRn_83k02GStMPFY9QG0jxW1xEEUPpiR4/s1209/20230727_104121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9xdls20riihDi7d0LmkUgfkYkDIrmbLJL9StyZZpE712mk8DyqAOpvk1sTDIqeROqxW2KPlzJ2G5odz1JRYUbvkFH_mVTD_Ah2fqIatHP3N3jkzSIJgUlQNIgaeF9UUVo99jGWELOaCfLDuWvHjGlvp_Av_VRn_83k02GStMPFY9QG0jxW1xEEUPpiR4/s320/20230727_104121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWRXT0xgFx0N03NToW6TNaYdVl-_AuFIT1_76IFTwoj7r_ZiWsB9Oc1WSZJfCdT7f2e8tJpsz7zTauID1Z-HlIzZm46C1GaCYbGwq844Sos5yMJ9TX9bvRTrTzTdVH-_mBRtVtGSkpl8aBvUu0GYRflo0ikIqVge6-6m8dS-Hrdi0mrTmG100IkrVSuk/s1209/20230727_113341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWRXT0xgFx0N03NToW6TNaYdVl-_AuFIT1_76IFTwoj7r_ZiWsB9Oc1WSZJfCdT7f2e8tJpsz7zTauID1Z-HlIzZm46C1GaCYbGwq844Sos5yMJ9TX9bvRTrTzTdVH-_mBRtVtGSkpl8aBvUu0GYRflo0ikIqVge6-6m8dS-Hrdi0mrTmG100IkrVSuk/s320/20230727_113341.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTBKuerU_qmwJRjNCu0FfYVroCWRfmMlLuPqfJu3gq8Jb8oepq14ngnsgg0BjA-PyBJWJ286gK2QYX6gyB1gm11FQ8Bge-l7MZnDY3MkwwJcfo48L0Fs0Ffl4Q2ptpOVi_HZw0LDYqxOA3aYeSoEujXoS84Cmlbz4QwIVqg7M8bmv0Y47fXm-akVpP9o/s1209/20230727_114326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTBKuerU_qmwJRjNCu0FfYVroCWRfmMlLuPqfJu3gq8Jb8oepq14ngnsgg0BjA-PyBJWJ286gK2QYX6gyB1gm11FQ8Bge-l7MZnDY3MkwwJcfo48L0Fs0Ffl4Q2ptpOVi_HZw0LDYqxOA3aYeSoEujXoS84Cmlbz4QwIVqg7M8bmv0Y47fXm-akVpP9o/s320/20230727_114326.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Facciamo una breve sosta per il rifornimento d'acqua presso la casa di una signora che avrà 200 anni e sembra l'abuelita del film Coco. Ha sull'uscio un tavolo con un cestino di banane e alcune bottiglie. Ci accoglie in cortile, dove dormono al sole paciosi cani e un gattino arancione minuscolo. Avrà un mese, poco più. Appena ci vede ci viene incontro e si fa coccolare godendosi i grattini che devo fargli con un dito, perchè la mano intera lo soverchierebbe. Fa delle fusa microscopiche. Mi viene voglia di infilarlo nel taschino sulla schiena e portarlo via... Ma qui mi pare stia benone. E poi ho già due gattoli a casa che ora sono in villeggiatura con mamma e papà, al mare, a farsi viziare.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Riprendiamo la salita, e gli ultimi 13km ci fanno rimpiangere le pendenze delicate di prima. Per affrontare la fatica mi prefisso una micropausa a bordo strada ogni 2km. Quei 2km diventano sempre più duri, fino a sembrare infiniti. Ma non mi fermo mai nè in anticipo, nè dopo. 2km. Per volta. Pian piano. Ci sono dei tratti di autismo in tutto ciò? E' possibile. Ma questa disciplina autoimposta mi aiuta a proseguire a tenere la testa sulla traccia. Infatti, impiegandoci oltre due ore per 10km, arriviamo al passo, 2130m e poco più di quota, in un profumo di resina che quasi ubriaca.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXQlndicFgYR8BI3LbtfgSI-8Tf53XHGkn00ADDGRjt7q827IkYulkw4tRdboGh3HXpH9Uy3WUCJLeNOSb7Q0-5uTPvufFz1ZLdwt7eEZFF6f0Lytxqoow9qEVel3FISliG8PLs1QWrMHGL0ML8DH5DivclvGVOtBGzmR3goADy5MO0-UG2vzrhY0yTc/s1209/20230727_130403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXQlndicFgYR8BI3LbtfgSI-8Tf53XHGkn00ADDGRjt7q827IkYulkw4tRdboGh3HXpH9Uy3WUCJLeNOSb7Q0-5uTPvufFz1ZLdwt7eEZFF6f0Lytxqoow9qEVel3FISliG8PLs1QWrMHGL0ML8DH5DivclvGVOtBGzmR3goADy5MO0-UG2vzrhY0yTc/s320/20230727_130403.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvC7WE68Dc_w4_J0wroYoBFuFehYSW55rY6mKSC6WO3OL6DOrkn8m5QzKdekgbHI8cKMY5ggU0hyNCOIkoqATQMsRu_mhwr7w-yVpKn6zX14-kZUD1rwIHbsf-PFJzlYl-1Vx9kYNxHSayKbQowwamcs9iBKqTT2ns0FWx2-t01EsbLB00FyUlPyocPE/s2048/IMG-20230727-WA0010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvC7WE68Dc_w4_J0wroYoBFuFehYSW55rY6mKSC6WO3OL6DOrkn8m5QzKdekgbHI8cKMY5ggU0hyNCOIkoqATQMsRu_mhwr7w-yVpKn6zX14-kZUD1rwIHbsf-PFJzlYl-1Vx9kYNxHSayKbQowwamcs9iBKqTT2ns0FWx2-t01EsbLB00FyUlPyocPE/s320/IMG-20230727-WA0010.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQPtJl5IwWIWU1vC5n18lweJrnPgb6w6COMr3QL8T_r6uo_UvKsB3zrxueSEewwLWX6uFX_cIyJ2YHH88YgGXiYKHVgcj5nNyfBL3Guuan2dPj7rKuVbOAh7MVX-__VI5_1115JkVKGadJKsido6cy28dPofYfcdmXjh1KZ9EwCuoTUR2MqfsQVB2eg4/s2048/IMG-20230727-WA0016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQPtJl5IwWIWU1vC5n18lweJrnPgb6w6COMr3QL8T_r6uo_UvKsB3zrxueSEewwLWX6uFX_cIyJ2YHH88YgGXiYKHVgcj5nNyfBL3Guuan2dPj7rKuVbOAh7MVX-__VI5_1115JkVKGadJKsido6cy28dPofYfcdmXjh1KZ9EwCuoTUR2MqfsQVB2eg4/s320/IMG-20230727-WA0016.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4aQ0eyJzDHAaXPSwnOdXz_DmDHGdoZz_3oOkohHfshBR6D_Ou7xcAajEo1_R3FOFmpYNKV0LQdGhN6fYQVoWPRpy7HRp3q2Hfgyf9lqdvTY1KQQR0IKd2sPLwNTA1chSYJe2CNjcstSQTCiBE4g65HD4Fhb6iReEfmMzfLZkbR-GORqnOk3jwAjaYtyU/s2048/IMG-20230727-WA0018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4aQ0eyJzDHAaXPSwnOdXz_DmDHGdoZz_3oOkohHfshBR6D_Ou7xcAajEo1_R3FOFmpYNKV0LQdGhN6fYQVoWPRpy7HRp3q2Hfgyf9lqdvTY1KQQR0IKd2sPLwNTA1chSYJe2CNjcstSQTCiBE4g65HD4Fhb6iReEfmMzfLZkbR-GORqnOk3jwAjaYtyU/s320/IMG-20230727-WA0018.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Prima di scollinare ci fermiamo in quella che pare una struttura fin troppo grande per la location; ci sono un ristorante con terrazza sulle valli sottostanti, un intero edificio in muratura con i bagni e un'altra casona a due piani con camere in affitto. Appena ci avviciniamo, però, ci rendiamo conto che si tratta di un guscio vuoto. Nessuno di questo servizi è davvero disponibile. Ci accoglie una famiglia dalla pelle scura scura e i tratti indigeni composta da nonna con i capelli lunghi bianchi e un maglioncino giallo su vestito chiaro a fiori. Coppia sui 35, lei indaffaratissima a pulire pavimenti e stender panni, lui stravaccato su una sedia con il telefono in mano. Bimbo di 4 anni circa vestito già come un adulto, con tanto di scarpe in pelle a punta e camicia, che un po' gioca rotolandosi in terra, un po' aiuta la mamma. Il joven parla un po' inglese e dopo un secco: "Senti che vogliono i gringos" della nonna, ci dice che l'hotel è chiuso e il ristorante pure, acqua non ne hanno, solo CocaCola al tiempo. E se vogliamo ci scaldano due quesadillas. Vabe' dai, almeno approfitto del bagno per far pipì... Una struttura tanta, con ventordici stalli, che pare un tempio greco in marmo... E poi i sanitari non sono collegati all'acqua, per cui bisogna uscire, prendere un bel secchio, riempirlo con l'acqua marcia di un barile pieno di insetti e fare lo sciacquone manuale. In teoria con quell'acqua ci si lava anche le mani. Il tutto per 5 pesitos. Assistiamo alla feroce lotta tra un gallo e un tacchino, e ammiriamo con gli occhi a cuore un gattino che dorme in una cassetta su una mensola. E il panorama. Poi leviamo le tende.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBI-UnV8V_lATCSwe4ZwY4b8MambqnAqzZVYS175vWKYMbhp0bUDUdh9ry9BoyifzXUcuiHGZ6JKXU6byyT9PVFA20OkFt6OifPhhijbMbhunpHMR-xJzm0FxTbfqAxdhMhqXbcrUzQHnqlSnkg99puwr_Js4h-2_mp7Kf4o0zyGKXDt_RBp1dV_JhMWA/s1209/20230727_131349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBI-UnV8V_lATCSwe4ZwY4b8MambqnAqzZVYS175vWKYMbhp0bUDUdh9ry9BoyifzXUcuiHGZ6JKXU6byyT9PVFA20OkFt6OifPhhijbMbhunpHMR-xJzm0FxTbfqAxdhMhqXbcrUzQHnqlSnkg99puwr_Js4h-2_mp7Kf4o0zyGKXDt_RBp1dV_JhMWA/s320/20230727_131349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzm4Jn22DfQ__t6TnPCdXx_tuttX9bKq_lKix_j1HfDFXELopJ0Q3jHgAdD8_hztJl5s5lMLiRfcDauWj-9n-JU5HlFjAtZaUPtmyuF3NcJtPs-A8nDDR8XSLop3o6jspMAEohiApeBVu8mO5mVx9ECQLELX34Z79rfWJHDPnwNZmNk6Ylw7OBSyiEdvw/s1209/20230727_131352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWpXnz_5q6fYNoivEt3B2XJo9GBPFYyz9J8hasY4ZNBg1gkj-fZvtUEbf7kKyxi1m-o5LxUNk1R66HYIGU6TNYlcGQytWEDGMomzkFzrJS7RDHV-xA6AvfzD9ymnZQp9sJXugaUgkyBm8JMffzR3od9qxjjXGMhlfFzM0eku198iZ4Wqof-rXQG0RUnhQ/s320/20230727_134852.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX8500zlzisUes3hhDlKRX5kq4aq46OaiHTl8zNQpvrGtNZ-DZrqaEqTE1KOde0lCPIGxgFYeQJbvXaj3JmwNa1lFAqsoi0ST5o6Bty7k07d9RrctanseNY1TOIMHQL8kBjrAJ5vTincDE06-YHFl23FkAhZ0SDCv1YgYiwZ4G62QBJytaI5i6qJc_ts/s1209/20230727_134919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX8500zlzisUes3hhDlKRX5kq4aq46OaiHTl8zNQpvrGtNZ-DZrqaEqTE1KOde0lCPIGxgFYeQJbvXaj3JmwNa1lFAqsoi0ST5o6Bty7k07d9RrctanseNY1TOIMHQL8kBjrAJ5vTincDE06-YHFl23FkAhZ0SDCv1YgYiwZ4G62QBJytaI5i6qJc_ts/s320/20230727_134919.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per rifocillarci a dovere proseguiamo di un paio di kilometri (ancora in leggera salita, ahinoi illusi che eravamo convinti di aver scollinato), Qui, prima della discesa, ci sono un paio di case con annesso comedor e negozietto. Ci gustiamo frutta secca piccante (che è un mix di noccioline, spicchi d'aglio secco e peperoncino, veramente delizioso, anche se lascia una fiatella impegnativa) e acqua fresca. Scopriamo che anche ai numerosi cani ossuti, alcuni dei quali paiono lupetti, piacciono molto le arachidi. In breve siamo circondati da bestie di ogni genere.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LcALAbR95NIaEiEhtkHRkDQ6ORcCSHOEE3QaBSpoMn-qVgdy1RmuXi8ihZXm9NCq__DbFigxSqpBhO-PXJvKnt1xBUgjupDy58NvLQ28Ru1fVPW0z0lB__eVdjc3GIQcNE2PxGmcY7x5x7TevPpRQoyFlmrt7mNRXtMmDskGr5AnRnU8j5tNuW6XL9E/s1209/20230727_135344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3LcALAbR95NIaEiEhtkHRkDQ6ORcCSHOEE3QaBSpoMn-qVgdy1RmuXi8ihZXm9NCq__DbFigxSqpBhO-PXJvKnt1xBUgjupDy58NvLQ28Ru1fVPW0z0lB__eVdjc3GIQcNE2PxGmcY7x5x7TevPpRQoyFlmrt7mNRXtMmDskGr5AnRnU8j5tNuW6XL9E/s320/20230727_135344.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhpsXY-ADQAuzTQeTb7c7zY67zcVCTDTDpZXiKDk3A29BrWPHzi9GSVbbZz-FaRw5Dxt6_1Suqmo7caqG3pZNGV4yG9_tcAxZraLFql5OcdPLZ7GtL7IjJsyy4jyH82OzeY1xrrV1ZimZNYdSalJJjgiOP1JeANfiHomzQSnSGmLEPe4IfIDHi9MSWOg/s1209/20230727_135347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83YhQlYKPoHLuwgNpLvu1XoQ8SZjEzaGoRHOFo51cw762dfYE4tCm_jlA48vLyVmqc1fttlAWj1OMC8M3a1d4FEQkueCnh-7-eDQ-cSyf1i_2fSo2vDWNnxpTgsnPeVjXNbM0YcLML8LgtlodEBWtPPT0kcIdv9Gc9AjJlXU75yUnJUh81LRpgAeTrjk/s1209/20230727_142711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83YhQlYKPoHLuwgNpLvu1XoQ8SZjEzaGoRHOFo51cw762dfYE4tCm_jlA48vLyVmqc1fttlAWj1OMC8M3a1d4FEQkueCnh-7-eDQ-cSyf1i_2fSo2vDWNnxpTgsnPeVjXNbM0YcLML8LgtlodEBWtPPT0kcIdv9Gc9AjJlXU75yUnJUh81LRpgAeTrjk/s320/20230727_142711.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnprQC4inNag5a4fhWnyet3pOlayFvxFNyezbrpUKNO7PE1dZ0eR722NnORcT5F-JOQ6e9Eu6gSoMOUgB9MCgK1AjooJB2C-p6iSrZscPnoQtsMafY8lFNfKYRWpyrPZKNIoQcSWXDxjPUQ26xDeUwASOuB6P_19Nh0RvpqwHIsIxewOFoSVwTp1MuU4/s1209/20230727_142805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnprQC4inNag5a4fhWnyet3pOlayFvxFNyezbrpUKNO7PE1dZ0eR722NnORcT5F-JOQ6e9Eu6gSoMOUgB9MCgK1AjooJB2C-p6iSrZscPnoQtsMafY8lFNfKYRWpyrPZKNIoQcSWXDxjPUQ26xDeUwASOuB6P_19Nh0RvpqwHIsIxewOFoSVwTp1MuU4/s320/20230727_142805.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sullo sfondo la figlia della proprietaria, piccola che a malapena cammina dritta, intenta a raccogliere pietre da tirare contro a gallo, gallina e tacchino che si stanno allontanando troppo. A sassate li riconduce al pollaio</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_exv7Nj8gDAAjwZFO4WCJpArna7TjuLiPhAKp5vAJVreM8nOqnL9NrdNTxQSbKPhstvFG0h_ixR-lwaT7-XXNXdajXl82sTVOCGZYN-U4Lk0nsqoa5w_thNAmlnINiiFGe-XXuOlUzEjsQL9O81NCaFHnoLrTMPrSqON79ZvluVVpBMwDqwtbZQeB0iI/s1209/20230727_142822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_exv7Nj8gDAAjwZFO4WCJpArna7TjuLiPhAKp5vAJVreM8nOqnL9NrdNTxQSbKPhstvFG0h_ixR-lwaT7-XXNXdajXl82sTVOCGZYN-U4Lk0nsqoa5w_thNAmlnINiiFGe-XXuOlUzEjsQL9O81NCaFHnoLrTMPrSqON79ZvluVVpBMwDqwtbZQeB0iI/s320/20230727_142822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente inizia la discesa vera, anche se non possiamo lanciarci di testa a freni sciolti per via delle buche profonde, delle crepe larghe e dei massi sulla strada. In ogni caso è una goduria per le nostre zampette sfibrate!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3koxor847oKYgzwSNEcWWzfEmsV4q8896UmnR31tnhvcpwam0yhXcCN-GhM0rh05LHRNmxE4IEUH6nr8admGRP7iHnRYg7kZQCNd8j9i1_oGa-zGhOelR47_1rgWXFktPJdf2nOH6fY3lj4iLCSdjt_COWw94oO7qkRVifKU9fWkx3Df8KCtZ2kigqs/s1209/20230727_144353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3koxor847oKYgzwSNEcWWzfEmsV4q8896UmnR31tnhvcpwam0yhXcCN-GhM0rh05LHRNmxE4IEUH6nr8admGRP7iHnRYg7kZQCNd8j9i1_oGa-zGhOelR47_1rgWXFktPJdf2nOH6fY3lj4iLCSdjt_COWw94oO7qkRVifKU9fWkx3Df8KCtZ2kigqs/s320/20230727_144353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUot4zW_GZbMTElGXkyPii3ENX6qjaQH8T3TlAcAzBuuYcyT9kT9tD6KWK4wJoFZ932XGa1t9XO29-fjNmf6GILsDL_9YabUwo9zN4SfMlSGzWl43djn9doW2bkssObRB5BwTJgB_SgYPfrCNt3bAzmQX4AQ5H8GVcktRvPWJLyQwyIICZnDK2fJ_abMw/s1209/20230727_144407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUot4zW_GZbMTElGXkyPii3ENX6qjaQH8T3TlAcAzBuuYcyT9kT9tD6KWK4wJoFZ932XGa1t9XO29-fjNmf6GILsDL_9YabUwo9zN4SfMlSGzWl43djn9doW2bkssObRB5BwTJgB_SgYPfrCNt3bAzmQX4AQ5H8GVcktRvPWJLyQwyIICZnDK2fJ_abMw/s320/20230727_144407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiasdUSPclExmR3OrBSSaoQb1QpINua-nxiOIObN5kfQOjyIGXOoRyxDHl7i-803hne0et3LoRDooz7ksTmmrUQYaNpvifYRA3Yp1fyLaeh5nvw4P57wczG3OsxGPs376qqRdLh13LaIM3BOJZ_ZeU57rRIUdiW5ttyR-1AmvuXBVKb9XRNwWpM-2fIGmc/s1209/20230727_145333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiasdUSPclExmR3OrBSSaoQb1QpINua-nxiOIObN5kfQOjyIGXOoRyxDHl7i-803hne0et3LoRDooz7ksTmmrUQYaNpvifYRA3Yp1fyLaeh5nvw4P57wczG3OsxGPs376qqRdLh13LaIM3BOJZ_ZeU57rRIUdiW5ttyR-1AmvuXBVKb9XRNwWpM-2fIGmc/s320/20230727_145333.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRKv6kgReeKi2zDEQ2n2OhpCu1YlYteZ2Aj2x3ycBT7aNP0pADKy8HFy0Ip8JjjKGqH4ja1TmHY5kb4K57ByVzkceCoC4fYDGL2PKCjiowqar5yQjGjrKPhCNqziu9E-yF9uq2E_qSz7mQsKP-jT8t8cX144iFsRpfC-jzXCqSFdxbCYuL6QT58fxP2Ek/s1209/20230727_145351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRKv6kgReeKi2zDEQ2n2OhpCu1YlYteZ2Aj2x3ycBT7aNP0pADKy8HFy0Ip8JjjKGqH4ja1TmHY5kb4K57ByVzkceCoC4fYDGL2PKCjiowqar5yQjGjrKPhCNqziu9E-yF9uq2E_qSz7mQsKP-jT8t8cX144iFsRpfC-jzXCqSFdxbCYuL6QT58fxP2Ek/s320/20230727_145351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUtbQXy-8FvAJVKuId4VlYJ4hPNGX_RlRiZje5vE5UyJ5fF3MRfJee2h9oYRzfX0NzQ0Fpb60a1yxgz46iUq-3FhOX1-ztMj8QlrF-RWMmQ4yuf2lV3olEGFE6wjqzFujuKOQ0n-pm6GGDSuT30jZdD8y-mZwV8Msr2cUEdyE6Zc67ce3YFmduK05Bnj4/s1209/20230727_150123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUtbQXy-8FvAJVKuId4VlYJ4hPNGX_RlRiZje5vE5UyJ5fF3MRfJee2h9oYRzfX0NzQ0Fpb60a1yxgz46iUq-3FhOX1-ztMj8QlrF-RWMmQ4yuf2lV3olEGFE6wjqzFujuKOQ0n-pm6GGDSuT30jZdD8y-mZwV8Msr2cUEdyE6Zc67ce3YFmduK05Bnj4/s320/20230727_150123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb7fUF5Q4ZHqt9b8DpD0fZjecygAYYFKbhEwriS_DKL5pi37GM2uUNiWJTv-obo0VJ5xPociTBQYjU8iH9m4xKz8Rvo156O1GRIG_sGbkNuUb11xmk9-yRnJBzaQjSvkEbjdbzVmF4moPULhvxePVUeyCMSntpgeFoSmaYeKDGtwhhDKvGU6xnN8GDTdQ/s1209/20230727_150132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb7fUF5Q4ZHqt9b8DpD0fZjecygAYYFKbhEwriS_DKL5pi37GM2uUNiWJTv-obo0VJ5xPociTBQYjU8iH9m4xKz8Rvo156O1GRIG_sGbkNuUb11xmk9-yRnJBzaQjSvkEbjdbzVmF4moPULhvxePVUeyCMSntpgeFoSmaYeKDGtwhhDKvGU6xnN8GDTdQ/s320/20230727_150132.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLJoyIFi8mjCGdeIRzAN7EpqEp_kgatP9gZiNyNOmGhQV3ttzfrlHrd29S3YEED9phxw6sKkHKRSZgSTswgz31jAhSwr3Vk3FXwqTPSjxMhD8xWtlrsYd1BRAHwBffdU-tIwOipCANSlJDF3I441mnRmImBsL7yo-dqG9lmxgFqcx_OKwy7AV2C2Tnqc/s1209/20230727_151558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLJoyIFi8mjCGdeIRzAN7EpqEp_kgatP9gZiNyNOmGhQV3ttzfrlHrd29S3YEED9phxw6sKkHKRSZgSTswgz31jAhSwr3Vk3FXwqTPSjxMhD8xWtlrsYd1BRAHwBffdU-tIwOipCANSlJDF3I441mnRmImBsL7yo-dqG9lmxgFqcx_OKwy7AV2C2Tnqc/s320/20230727_151558.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO4NzfZauLSjn6FCZXkM9I9UIi-7YEz9W82jGFtqu8gKEDOA9rUcoq8ZufX2n1nooeM-Uf03gJ9XhGmDNz83VBQDgfrE9PIgZ-7hxwIbKEpl-64y6aDCAwcVcn1gaV3ujaadF5UU3Up6dCzPfHwwmKkZSwylXgKDKE8ehXysI8gQoBt6-RwqyH7-SH_IA/s1209/20230727_151609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO4NzfZauLSjn6FCZXkM9I9UIi-7YEz9W82jGFtqu8gKEDOA9rUcoq8ZufX2n1nooeM-Uf03gJ9XhGmDNz83VBQDgfrE9PIgZ-7hxwIbKEpl-64y6aDCAwcVcn1gaV3ujaadF5UU3Up6dCzPfHwwmKkZSwylXgKDKE8ehXysI8gQoBt6-RwqyH7-SH_IA/s320/20230727_151609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In un soffio, tra mucche che si scornano in mezzo alla strada, campi di agave e mais e cani che ci inseguono, siamo a Villa sola de Vega, poco sotto i 1500m. L'aria è fresca e si sta addensando un temporale con tuoni che fan tremare i muri delle case. La cittadina è animata e piena di negozi, soprattutto farmacie e alimentari, ma anche meccanici e casalinghi, localini un po' ronci, barbieri ed estetiste, cartolerie... Qui si trova tutto ciò che sulle montagne non c'è. Immancabile la presenza della Virgen, essendo questa città tappa del pellegrinaggio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbkFXoLTCoUibamtcSXBQiszfX0m5CjdbbMfi2IGlTdaHKpcKoCfcjplU3T1fR2hShBz882EEo5TfEQ-381VdBVjxTx1CpybfpfxAmpCZOfYdGfcsNyZZqcingjqEODf0RRKBWPlsb2JfFTg2QuA3166oEYazAfq1F9lWB7ivedwN-gx543u5haYQuJ0U/s1209/20230727_191848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbkFXoLTCoUibamtcSXBQiszfX0m5CjdbbMfi2IGlTdaHKpcKoCfcjplU3T1fR2hShBz882EEo5TfEQ-381VdBVjxTx1CpybfpfxAmpCZOfYdGfcsNyZZqcingjqEODf0RRKBWPlsb2JfFTg2QuA3166oEYazAfq1F9lWB7ivedwN-gx543u5haYQuJ0U/s320/20230727_191848.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNq2zYfJ7R73u8RBynxx5nZZ4OWGvyd2uNMoX7do7HPt9iTrJI675h-XlLgtk_y5ZKD20J5NNrVbXlczx2Me6pFS2tvklazEMOSUeJMA9nL0FfKTWdabq3FCkAeuJNZRigvJhXI7kM9h-0NFnkrxPXhI5fDb8_DWMJ86UbYTeVbrIBAZyrddfiH9Yj5g/s1209/20230727_191855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNq2zYfJ7R73u8RBynxx5nZZ4OWGvyd2uNMoX7do7HPt9iTrJI675h-XlLgtk_y5ZKD20J5NNrVbXlczx2Me6pFS2tvklazEMOSUeJMA9nL0FfKTWdabq3FCkAeuJNZRigvJhXI7kM9h-0NFnkrxPXhI5fDb8_DWMJ86UbYTeVbrIBAZyrddfiH9Yj5g/s320/20230727_191855.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noi, dopo la doccia, collassiamo in camera. Poi mi occupo della logistica: organizzo la visita do Oaxaca, che raggiungeremo domani, trovo un alloggio in centro, un meccanico ciclista per i miei freni e una lavanderia automatica. Quindi, presa dalla foga organizzativa, preparo tutte le tappe da qui a Puebla, da lì a Città del Messico, dalla capitale a Guadalajara e dal Jalisco a Mazatlan, dove prenderemo il traghetto per sbarcare in Baja California. In breve, ho fatto tutto il lavoro per il prossimo mese. Sono estremamente soddisfatta!</div><div><br /></div><div>Viene il momento della meritata cena, e scegliamo un ristorantino dove ci fa visita l'ennesimo perro affamato di oggi. Ma dopo qualche coccola se ne va, prima che ci servano e si possa condividere un po' di polletto arrosto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dZFhxw9KoYPWaPOMesDa5dIC7_j43tXQsk13lyzXL5-YusvED4yraCmqUh-j6sxrAdNB7fB9GlqASO2KeqdFvdWNqAd20Pe6kXs2h6x9-meFZtOanBhyOlZ1tw630_ke5u15uUHpIh20K8vIbvooY6hHeVA5PJ30WOppgahUQzw01iEjp8BlhgifGH4/s1209/20230727_192431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dZFhxw9KoYPWaPOMesDa5dIC7_j43tXQsk13lyzXL5-YusvED4yraCmqUh-j6sxrAdNB7fB9GlqASO2KeqdFvdWNqAd20Pe6kXs2h6x9-meFZtOanBhyOlZ1tw630_ke5u15uUHpIh20K8vIbvooY6hHeVA5PJ30WOppgahUQzw01iEjp8BlhgifGH4/s320/20230727_192431.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJk7BoSA6sEMZxzGOdEPcaPRVyH7h-TSKhmaL3NZTwYK2nI_DTVf2GEGIzRrqIt_BsNWCvEwQm-37C3tAeINHWj3PVvPhop9H-uWpf6-Z1nQtfFqwePjXqtg9EHhnRMgZL3zcT9LycOv3283TK_3QpVt9nROaIv0efLCgJqyM_sQD0y5DWpVDLr4W78x4/s1209/20230727_192435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJk7BoSA6sEMZxzGOdEPcaPRVyH7h-TSKhmaL3NZTwYK2nI_DTVf2GEGIzRrqIt_BsNWCvEwQm-37C3tAeINHWj3PVvPhop9H-uWpf6-Z1nQtfFqwePjXqtg9EHhnRMgZL3zcT9LycOv3283TK_3QpVt9nROaIv0efLCgJqyM_sQD0y5DWpVDLr4W78x4/s320/20230727_192435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-51066787088064881322023-07-25T07:51:00.003+02:002023-07-25T07:51:36.002+02:0031-33. Oceano. Pedalare fino a Puerto Escondido e liberare tartarughe marine tra paradisi tropicali<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHcF_pMQZVK4PAw8B9C_b1wgDGG_xBzM61lKgv8AXP-Thr7NcZNWFmGLD0twJyHWksDdVZcHTnm1UCOmmTi8snRT8O2iRPSivB71KivPFofQmXdeN11Q8BIJGdoVQW-hgs4a_6C44dSSopg68iiHtbBFTykdktBGfUmlMIqHJ0rBkF8YnaD-y-Yg-xlQk/s1209/20230724_105904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHcF_pMQZVK4PAw8B9C_b1wgDGG_xBzM61lKgv8AXP-Thr7NcZNWFmGLD0twJyHWksDdVZcHTnm1UCOmmTi8snRT8O2iRPSivB71KivPFofQmXdeN11Q8BIJGdoVQW-hgs4a_6C44dSSopg68iiHtbBFTykdktBGfUmlMIqHJ0rBkF8YnaD-y-Yg-xlQk/w480-h640/20230724_105904.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFdeJbriLaI-e1rwKf1Z9O-_LzrRcjd-wNUm2F4m2UXG2wF7JdHhPd5gISz4oji5XmLfiQL-ySXEnWtmvbtb9ibLwWZ5PA3xftgZzPz6BlOND2iQpgo-PNoo5g_gproUN017Yq6EwncywaWYZnSpjhRKDcOIbKcX0ihmpP8CX4ysBoOCZdrG3aqQFQMw/s1209/20230722_145327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0viOpw3Yxb3KpRW7pCcSg_hxVAydhW1WfELOAjSR-50T4bo-yt1G7SKW10hC8U8xHZlImQ0uiDzKlJenx7uDGkb1m1ZyWJZrwdVGPjyxAsOK9MzeboH2qg-e8_jYIcsV8VBOChXkUc6kC4mB8qLjWK4efglztkZYcjVVm7-dbMNyFqafYWdaqInIilg/s1209/20230723_190507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0viOpw3Yxb3KpRW7pCcSg_hxVAydhW1WfELOAjSR-50T4bo-yt1G7SKW10hC8U8xHZlImQ0uiDzKlJenx7uDGkb1m1ZyWJZrwdVGPjyxAsOK9MzeboH2qg-e8_jYIcsV8VBOChXkUc6kC4mB8qLjWK4efglztkZYcjVVm7-dbMNyFqafYWdaqInIilg/w640-h480/20230723_190507.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgocPUGNeHg5IfzWuhxSrOKe5ULIVj57pMzn4qaNAtYL-mv6IE-aAePMsvyUgk5_M9orrjf00DGFoKK5M1x9acb-xy7q-JvdsXVvTwyRzWqSYEVklYTKIDPBS0HElFjctGAT1tzrcfIQo8Teh51rRc8hnV8YBG5NS8phFs0cYafNAD8vUnC-RO-NRzMXjk/s1209/20230724_110121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjmC31EuMJK4ysrM0AkAtLahMD3_160x00MI-9fsBiEKd5D7BsoNA_SSP4iXfasLPfn2NJsLL1tKtlFUu5E35-repRUiizmiHZprRl8T2wuxLUlqCJhrL5o_eQ0iX_q4VOA5RDGt5pkc-GVTvoTaT-CFs2iEg7KNxSAkONM5Trm314Z38fbapM0nGThw/s1209/20230724_171630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjmC31EuMJK4ysrM0AkAtLahMD3_160x00MI-9fsBiEKd5D7BsoNA_SSP4iXfasLPfn2NJsLL1tKtlFUu5E35-repRUiizmiHZprRl8T2wuxLUlqCJhrL5o_eQ0iX_q4VOA5RDGt5pkc-GVTvoTaT-CFs2iEg7KNxSAkONM5Trm314Z38fbapM0nGThw/w480-h640/20230724_171630.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">22/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Tehuantepec - El Coyul</div><div style="text-align: left;">111km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Quella che sto per raccontare è la storia breve di una lunga tappa faticosa, ma faticosa per davvero, di quelle che si arriva a sera ed ogni volta che ci si siede o alza (il meno possibile, invero) ci si fa forza con un oppalà! Oh iiissa! Mentre tutte le giunture cigolano e i muscoli si sfilacciano. Il problema principale resta la caldazza umida che ucciderebbe anche un toro, grigliandolo vivo, se lasciato al sole per il numero di ore nelle quali noi ci siam rimasti. A questo si aggiungano salitelle continue, durante le quali il corpo arriva a temperature da fusione nucleare, vento contrario, le poche volte che si fa sentire, e ampi tratti di costa selvaggi, per cui bisogna essere autonomi con l'acqua (perchè si beve tanto, e si suda tantissimo).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Con ordine: stanotte ho dormito poco e male. Anche qui a causa del caldo. Abbiamo aperto tutte le finestre, consapevoli che sarebbe entrato uno zoo in camera, ma, nonostante questo, e nonostante il ventilatore, è stato come giacere su una graticola. Con tanti squittii delle famiglie di Speedy Gonzales.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Per cui ci alziamo presto, e portare giù per due piani di scale le borse e le bici ci fa squagliare. Le temperature sono già insoffribili di prima mattina, che pignarculo.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">La città sta cominciando a mettersi in moto e le bancarelle più esterne dei mercati, quelle degli ambulanti a bordo strada, vendono, friggono, spadellano, in un richiamo continuo tra urla di tamalestamalestamales e eloteeloteelote. Che voglia.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwYSYj9bYCsgBK6uKou74IraqoLd9UUTYOw-5gmAJ5vQRnil655jcTrCckjhnfueqjVHxK-qIOGi677q4_ibEhV_T_MMY8J75lcd25S2BqZ18NIm6-T7oWZ5tvyyS6vuDL7-QpZA516JZwYTLaPD1nyByUz_Q6lFpBI0BdqawlNxVrqcI_oN78Xx4t_8/s1209/20230722_081956.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwYSYj9bYCsgBK6uKou74IraqoLd9UUTYOw-5gmAJ5vQRnil655jcTrCckjhnfueqjVHxK-qIOGi677q4_ibEhV_T_MMY8J75lcd25S2BqZ18NIm6-T7oWZ5tvyyS6vuDL7-QpZA516JZwYTLaPD1nyByUz_Q6lFpBI0BdqawlNxVrqcI_oN78Xx4t_8/s320/20230722_081956.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci mettiamo in strada e tra furgoni pieni di bestie, merci e persone, passiamo accanto alla famosa statua della Tehuana, la donna di Tehuantapec in abiti tradizionali, che custodisce l'ingresso alla città. C'è anche un'enorme statua di iguana, ma non faccio in tempo a fotografarla. Da notare, invece, i cartelli che pubblicizzano il "servizio" dei mariachi, che qui vanno fortissimo! </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT_rG4L7aaELCKJawXYaIV6hPTzZJmMkXNveLQN57aTYCznagajBw0qJbl_He-s4xWcPUldpKu1Wzigpj3Nxx9dhzxUsYOAlKz0e9cspWIHLkY55eEAiRKea_908-Ns_UMu_bpSgbaOyx2xCSalwziMSkvUlRsZZMgb9_t1GxSQJc5hNkxiR4aGgPUhfw/s1209/20230722_082304.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT_rG4L7aaELCKJawXYaIV6hPTzZJmMkXNveLQN57aTYCznagajBw0qJbl_He-s4xWcPUldpKu1Wzigpj3Nxx9dhzxUsYOAlKz0e9cspWIHLkY55eEAiRKea_908-Ns_UMu_bpSgbaOyx2xCSalwziMSkvUlRsZZMgb9_t1GxSQJc5hNkxiR4aGgPUhfw/s320/20230722_082304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFU18SvdadL8BxhUgouopbGy0h6QppksZnpGMpBD-PV062CmaCLYM1PoesdztjefwdmL2IRjT6LWht5kRsdo1yWEQF2UkyiS7dLX3W9f43MXtPXqtmj1ej3LOUqD39t9HaFkxxtZ-9XWKmLSKUapEqUZnLmpiIv0Yp-0L5LTQiRfZTI9q7HsTyW7YZnU/s1122/20230722_082312.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="842" data-original-width="1122" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFU18SvdadL8BxhUgouopbGy0h6QppksZnpGMpBD-PV062CmaCLYM1PoesdztjefwdmL2IRjT6LWht5kRsdo1yWEQF2UkyiS7dLX3W9f43MXtPXqtmj1ej3LOUqD39t9HaFkxxtZ-9XWKmLSKUapEqUZnLmpiIv0Yp-0L5LTQiRfZTI9q7HsTyW7YZnU/s320/20230722_082312.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_BalYJPUvpToABjbav1l_jGhvrRtezKPNGihO_cQXnZXTwwbOFCmDanB4-XnJiOFVtpcgawoGpb7k0lC4RG803gzYr21xR24eTDpRqzus8-4x-_dKA44HoZ_cQEhV9yQ1KMn-wVSwT25q-1HAIE4Ny2RyQWanYxEMtBuEkA1MLky5S0s2ChC598vxmg/s1209/20230722_091902.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_BalYJPUvpToABjbav1l_jGhvrRtezKPNGihO_cQXnZXTwwbOFCmDanB4-XnJiOFVtpcgawoGpb7k0lC4RG803gzYr21xR24eTDpRqzus8-4x-_dKA44HoZ_cQEhV9yQ1KMn-wVSwT25q-1HAIE4Ny2RyQWanYxEMtBuEkA1MLky5S0s2ChC598vxmg/s320/20230722_091902.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I primi 20km sono un sogno: strada dritta, leggermente in discesa, con il vento a favore, poco traffico. Arriviamo in breve, così, a Salina Cruz. Si tratta di una città di quasi 80.000 abitanti, la quarta dello stato, ed ospita un grande porto commerciale, che si è sviluppato dal XIX secolo con la costruzione della ferrovia trans-istmica. Qui non c'erano insediamenti preispanici importanti, e la città è stata fondata nel 1522 alla foce del fiume, dove già c'era una salina (che esiste tuttora). Oggi, però, a dominare l'assetto urbano è la raffineria Pemex (ogni tanto teatro di esplosioni, incendi devastanti e altre amenità). Non ci soffermiamo qui a lungo, la costa selvaggia di aspetta! Da qui inizia la parte tosta della tappa. Avete presente la Liguria? Con le montagne che si gettano direttamente in mare, la strada che le segue tutte, cima per cima, e resta alta, con pendenze spesso cattivelle? Ecco, qui uguale. Solo che il clima è quello tropicale. Le danze hanno inizio con una breve galleria, l'unica. Il resto sarà tutto un saliscendi spezzagambe.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblkQsyavzF6it3ckw4TYVFY0rz6jNajJuTs3mAxiNqSQIWLu_8gB_iFcMI03taF5Ejtx8QkXXKJxmrW5is-DvlFb3pspTRLV8Fbb_bgaJcXdiD5sAZobu1TL7V_F5dmGrVgPcOFzDX0I0Ce2m0TS8JTjuPYE0u2LQfGDImwVL_xKtcuCu1hkMLN0agGI/s1209/20230722_093610.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgblkQsyavzF6it3ckw4TYVFY0rz6jNajJuTs3mAxiNqSQIWLu_8gB_iFcMI03taF5Ejtx8QkXXKJxmrW5is-DvlFb3pspTRLV8Fbb_bgaJcXdiD5sAZobu1TL7V_F5dmGrVgPcOFzDX0I0Ce2m0TS8JTjuPYE0u2LQfGDImwVL_xKtcuCu1hkMLN0agGI/s320/20230722_093610.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP__Ip82koHn1FCbcK_4nbbcxhzp7ZbTkbYsq0gCOSCEWqtuaNZYO1cBvUXS9kKm6e1iVvinQJIdeGYCxAIdK2slVioNxW7yE1JJ-321PQTk5htlqV9ugcPEE79zVr4ssJFWX49XGKC_F-vsRCKtmKMjTSbqEVbKGgGZBVCIpwyotUlBvhDNwFKCzsgug/s1209/20230722_094315.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP__Ip82koHn1FCbcK_4nbbcxhzp7ZbTkbYsq0gCOSCEWqtuaNZYO1cBvUXS9kKm6e1iVvinQJIdeGYCxAIdK2slVioNxW7yE1JJ-321PQTk5htlqV9ugcPEE79zVr4ssJFWX49XGKC_F-vsRCKtmKMjTSbqEVbKGgGZBVCIpwyotUlBvhDNwFKCzsgug/s320/20230722_094315.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO2_0PsMKqIk9cEKhOtVJT4X8bhiv-neMcVQ048pbfsch3C6ieJAMPH8PCKoE-GQcR9UWbPztzbu64GrfAEuLMSSa2OWe5-o6OUiV4ul4LQ23IBY_hzCTafWZooJEU6junzi8aYeGkADOWkWV9-b-zaCU50ydNWCi8XT4E9yoslVj0KGKgdS77TjvDbc/s1060/20230722_094323.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="1060" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO2_0PsMKqIk9cEKhOtVJT4X8bhiv-neMcVQ048pbfsch3C6ieJAMPH8PCKoE-GQcR9UWbPztzbu64GrfAEuLMSSa2OWe5-o6OUiV4ul4LQ23IBY_hzCTafWZooJEU6junzi8aYeGkADOWkWV9-b-zaCU50ydNWCi8XT4E9yoslVj0KGKgdS77TjvDbc/s320/20230722_094323.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le saline rosate, in lontananza, tra la costa e l'oceano</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEoKLz-19RD9nEoLFrj2899PBnRDEsy1XJpq2h7nwcQNv2qKgyEqCQN_KaSGoKkHFCDZ7Mhb8efAsRHzEPXhibsjwi_KVHg97AVqOXThLrUXCt_U2nPJniUPeD-Qtq6wZd7VJLPYdvKV_iEP654m4vBNhl_9cOTZWMalf-BbLmha4aUjUClzNk2ctzUI0/s1209/20230722_095251.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEoKLz-19RD9nEoLFrj2899PBnRDEsy1XJpq2h7nwcQNv2qKgyEqCQN_KaSGoKkHFCDZ7Mhb8efAsRHzEPXhibsjwi_KVHg97AVqOXThLrUXCt_U2nPJniUPeD-Qtq6wZd7VJLPYdvKV_iEP654m4vBNhl_9cOTZWMalf-BbLmha4aUjUClzNk2ctzUI0/s320/20230722_095251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il lato positivo di questo continuo arrampicarsi è che non mancano i miradores panoramici da cui bearsi della vista privilegiata della costa, che si snoda tra spiagge bianchissime e monti ombrosi, coperti di fitta vegetazione, che quasi paiono sfiorare l'acqua con le loro ampie sottane di rami e foglie. Il tutto avviene in un continuo volo di avvoltoi, che su queste rocce a picco hanno il nido e vivono in colonie. Avvicinandosi all'orlo della strada e al precipizio, li si vede dall'alto spiccare il volo e poi salire di quota proprio davanti al proprio naso.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz9SvZredFHboFURccvwkuszIYUJMFX40MAxMBhdlE6Y8fQGjHWXY8uAI7JvIwxHJ7JCmkHnYnErgqmbnV5ZpAtGQ5d2iVuaMK3U7ifVMzaN2LOFlCYqfjdTqA4-e7bMark6w8ucvciMVreBiGEjd3JaQTptH5TPdFM93FU3uk-Fnm2EnTGRbNLyoXkJY/s1209/20230722_110752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz9SvZredFHboFURccvwkuszIYUJMFX40MAxMBhdlE6Y8fQGjHWXY8uAI7JvIwxHJ7JCmkHnYnErgqmbnV5ZpAtGQ5d2iVuaMK3U7ifVMzaN2LOFlCYqfjdTqA4-e7bMark6w8ucvciMVreBiGEjd3JaQTptH5TPdFM93FU3uk-Fnm2EnTGRbNLyoXkJY/s320/20230722_110752.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYQHVGwCCFd8IzXtt10WdqSaqVsTlKg3MuqoXxmyu3sEIOS_d34ZBZxmd-lMtvWlGTNs0HGF9OLWL7yeHtqzHhmnbD099RCUQH1JBgclVeuhj-TY1nYdl9C9eX5KyCn75iGn5nJAeCpFgJ-ZESpy6CC6JKqtnuLOCto1G278tgaU9F3cslqgo0NQtjFY/s1209/20230722_110758.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZYQHVGwCCFd8IzXtt10WdqSaqVsTlKg3MuqoXxmyu3sEIOS_d34ZBZxmd-lMtvWlGTNs0HGF9OLWL7yeHtqzHhmnbD099RCUQH1JBgclVeuhj-TY1nYdl9C9eX5KyCn75iGn5nJAeCpFgJ-ZESpy6CC6JKqtnuLOCto1G278tgaU9F3cslqgo0NQtjFY/s320/20230722_110758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEoXQ8Ft9OR0BVj0bFinK-MCc8jAUeOSLKkJ5I_viwmK4t7gEsPjDPYu5i-MScGFiJbWqkwUCQNEcTDYTOzm6ab6YB7GIqVZ6-_OLlKoPhwguXYQbWNJXG3wh_1ce7aVxpXtcvOKG0X09f7uIObywfmT1SrkMo1Vfltodvt3grjas46RqziWfq3pRV5bk/s1209/20230722_110821.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEoXQ8Ft9OR0BVj0bFinK-MCc8jAUeOSLKkJ5I_viwmK4t7gEsPjDPYu5i-MScGFiJbWqkwUCQNEcTDYTOzm6ab6YB7GIqVZ6-_OLlKoPhwguXYQbWNJXG3wh_1ce7aVxpXtcvOKG0X09f7uIObywfmT1SrkMo1Vfltodvt3grjas46RqziWfq3pRV5bk/s320/20230722_110821.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdfyITxHGwOiUeAW0xBywRVrs_mJQSacgPCdX1EyMfZ-HJLw58ng0gay2ph-MLhb8zFgobJuI4VqA6xIo4hBmt0DzxmqgxxQcnmaWI2jlvu5Ft3KlqVmUnUzlahInCpvscRdayxSxgyUssIRnwWz9N4w4kFPPb2mQzKfG0IEDCZNEkaRIbh2PrKluUb8/s1209/20230722_110828.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVdfyITxHGwOiUeAW0xBywRVrs_mJQSacgPCdX1EyMfZ-HJLw58ng0gay2ph-MLhb8zFgobJuI4VqA6xIo4hBmt0DzxmqgxxQcnmaWI2jlvu5Ft3KlqVmUnUzlahInCpvscRdayxSxgyUssIRnwWz9N4w4kFPPb2mQzKfG0IEDCZNEkaRIbh2PrKluUb8/s320/20230722_110828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3PsRuZvIcudCCGhPQ5Pl4myZMADKBkh_5SzeN72SRWfCb_rHzNUea3G6RXvmu9yGrVnW3Les_maU-liXnIdiKjMfpJDON1jEfIzKGcqyYTVrYYD9mIJcWL5PppfjGkqpSZHoQ9SBKP3q8jcqabs1HcUhOY_PCzRhR5Z36OI0CMbq53LA5ruLuEqIAXlM/s1209/20230722_111101.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3PsRuZvIcudCCGhPQ5Pl4myZMADKBkh_5SzeN72SRWfCb_rHzNUea3G6RXvmu9yGrVnW3Les_maU-liXnIdiKjMfpJDON1jEfIzKGcqyYTVrYYD9mIJcWL5PppfjGkqpSZHoQ9SBKP3q8jcqabs1HcUhOY_PCzRhR5Z36OI0CMbq53LA5ruLuEqIAXlM/s320/20230722_111101.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnAEL1ZcBvmgYqAP1riXvgJdSuywcHC2DhT9mDHwzz2FwtoQvvXW0s_2yyX_3R2b3thLIc_3WkIhvrwxhbDyVRymIK-auTUVgnmKAqlYMeWfE9-Ua8F6EOTYkiDIyDMMMi3e9HfFQIeIZo-IyEcmQ5rqPFEgj-bHdf3bm2Ll70KiXfe2Ey_KZu1PCxqp8/s1209/20230722_111215.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnAEL1ZcBvmgYqAP1riXvgJdSuywcHC2DhT9mDHwzz2FwtoQvvXW0s_2yyX_3R2b3thLIc_3WkIhvrwxhbDyVRymIK-auTUVgnmKAqlYMeWfE9-Ua8F6EOTYkiDIyDMMMi3e9HfFQIeIZo-IyEcmQ5rqPFEgj-bHdf3bm2Ll70KiXfe2Ey_KZu1PCxqp8/s320/20230722_111215.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3UT-zu1TXF1Qow4z_WV_CDN7RvIL9Y3dvqzljSjb1HjXyl1v9uHneu9X6JmdttMYYfwOe56MTzTfukIP1M8XyAXP48lZ-A0yd9YzIqKIEdwOxFUpmZUXSphMFmjpMO9RTeyC41-9XLXmcSf3y2bU-RecR2AezN50mU0x3LuvMZOjrzDlcs2JR-GRwTA/s1209/20230722_111254.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3UT-zu1TXF1Qow4z_WV_CDN7RvIL9Y3dvqzljSjb1HjXyl1v9uHneu9X6JmdttMYYfwOe56MTzTfukIP1M8XyAXP48lZ-A0yd9YzIqKIEdwOxFUpmZUXSphMFmjpMO9RTeyC41-9XLXmcSf3y2bU-RecR2AezN50mU0x3LuvMZOjrzDlcs2JR-GRwTA/s320/20230722_111254.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Scendiamo, saliamo, riscendiamo. Per tre minuti di ebbrezza da vento in faccia, c'è un'ora di fatica pagare. La strada è, a tratti, anche piuttosto dissestata, cosa che rende tutto ancor più difficile. Facciamo una prima breve sosta borracce nell'ultimo pueblo prima di un tratto quasi disabitato, a Morro de Mazatan. Le spiagge distano 2-3km dal paese, che rimane un grumo polveroso di sole e sabbia rovente. Non mancano però i locali, coloratissimi, con la musica sparata a palla, luridini il giusto, dove si mangia per lo più pesce. L'odore è inconfondibile.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXLWIkmc0_NHPfKkR3NRWbbdPDhZXSWNPkSXQYvp6F1LzaSLxYgfpjV7q4bWA-T-WzNYlSbPcuoL8nzIKK_Es2sj94qsqCYyJfH8eLuN8uxBsz4ieoCwc9rjiqATOmNs9s4KTLCpWkflUPHZ2W_PyGOOvn73QGetjAC5KjTUUP3wWqKDv-B5gedt3C1RQ/s1209/20230722_113331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXLWIkmc0_NHPfKkR3NRWbbdPDhZXSWNPkSXQYvp6F1LzaSLxYgfpjV7q4bWA-T-WzNYlSbPcuoL8nzIKK_Es2sj94qsqCYyJfH8eLuN8uxBsz4ieoCwc9rjiqATOmNs9s4KTLCpWkflUPHZ2W_PyGOOvn73QGetjAC5KjTUUP3wWqKDv-B5gedt3C1RQ/s320/20230722_113331.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNR2xvdlXmDFPNFFuqMTSV2e14uzPly7QH0wj-8xMZODkcpEIQutpFBP3ZVTuPVqaZoyISNVEunyxxm8bWtWd05udnG4jaXJlz2muQdAcDorqrgFh8cMZzlpScSadFHrVKH66gmAvhHLK-cvFHRSUgZiwYlq82BfGLYNO33o7yIxsRzbSR-2hKKfjQ6SA/s1209/20230722_113334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNR2xvdlXmDFPNFFuqMTSV2e14uzPly7QH0wj-8xMZODkcpEIQutpFBP3ZVTuPVqaZoyISNVEunyxxm8bWtWd05udnG4jaXJlz2muQdAcDorqrgFh8cMZzlpScSadFHrVKH66gmAvhHLK-cvFHRSUgZiwYlq82BfGLYNO33o7yIxsRzbSR-2hKKfjQ6SA/s320/20230722_113334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhw_UG0-i5Te2lAFzE5jgh3ImTvjy6jgpIzdXOHUqJP2639pmv7_qH58vvW5xK33Wp1_mwCZXIyH8EIJ3-xBAcUsxY7d7CySmFeWPCsb5s6qBrfYNte0Ho2BRM8MulleBbuZsotaeZaOM0F3cKVGqlHQwk_VSnsOT2lFD43vR2_vrXlS56oE6Cnfnq78/s1209/20230722_113451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhw_UG0-i5Te2lAFzE5jgh3ImTvjy6jgpIzdXOHUqJP2639pmv7_qH58vvW5xK33Wp1_mwCZXIyH8EIJ3-xBAcUsxY7d7CySmFeWPCsb5s6qBrfYNte0Ho2BRM8MulleBbuZsotaeZaOM0F3cKVGqlHQwk_VSnsOT2lFD43vR2_vrXlS56oE6Cnfnq78/s320/20230722_113451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciti dal paese la strada si impenna e si allontana di nuovo dalla costa, dove si trovano le famose spiagge di Santa Cruz Bamba, paradiso dei surfisti, con dune enormi, spiagge bianche infinite e montagne coperte di foreste a far da sfondo, oltre alle comunità locali che mettono in salvo i cuccioli di tartaruga marina da turisti e predatori. Noi, per capirci, siamo sullo sfondo, le montagne verdissime coperte di fitta foresta. Il caldo è insopportabile, e, nonostante la gran flora, non c'è un filo d'ombra.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7mt2-tix1nFsuxsWIHy7J7JJ_DlMggg4Tb71342L0KV-K3r6ynRnxT_DOluQylnmcgzDn9JgWg4sA4Cz6vmqTfuONu8NwNAkvlGrmeaJgZERV3-3AlQpU4hHpNNrKPP3IrykQNAE6RS54C5GW92IPrHhWzgWttBZ7nlILUDFwpSdjEm3qQzds9HTf8t0/s1209/20230722_120846.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7mt2-tix1nFsuxsWIHy7J7JJ_DlMggg4Tb71342L0KV-K3r6ynRnxT_DOluQylnmcgzDn9JgWg4sA4Cz6vmqTfuONu8NwNAkvlGrmeaJgZERV3-3AlQpU4hHpNNrKPP3IrykQNAE6RS54C5GW92IPrHhWzgWttBZ7nlILUDFwpSdjEm3qQzds9HTf8t0/s320/20230722_120846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyc8q2ddZk3nAIh8YeZ5mFeVCspAw0NPB3KjDc1YZgv99nuRDqYznOdtl5HMqVdef4jVcicq-bBTp4Q17RSHqI56zcfp6YcwflPfORhrzF_n9gLUV-L_0Km8pDG-JfkqidVHIIBZHpRsK1NePxkpxdhwYAwoFGqE6TqLH3ApwgDizAHtZmaF6H7i7gFc/s1209/20230722_120902.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyc8q2ddZk3nAIh8YeZ5mFeVCspAw0NPB3KjDc1YZgv99nuRDqYznOdtl5HMqVdef4jVcicq-bBTp4Q17RSHqI56zcfp6YcwflPfORhrzF_n9gLUV-L_0Km8pDG-JfkqidVHIIBZHpRsK1NePxkpxdhwYAwoFGqE6TqLH3ApwgDizAHtZmaF6H7i7gFc/s320/20230722_120902.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU87bV8sJoqvYyFmCNI21-ySwLzXZShyRWY7-_3s7eqzyDbBukcipYixFcOOr77QiD56J_R7KgzV7HrPHtmFvVek9AqexdPvOBRcOxvnzF8bhjAOg-AjfZl6yLfYoBPanFFiJyKwe1cVOwkeg-4KIDLGBcR4qVPw4yICTJArsT83sBKk8WV5HgVK8ZWec/s1209/20230722_130245.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU87bV8sJoqvYyFmCNI21-ySwLzXZShyRWY7-_3s7eqzyDbBukcipYixFcOOr77QiD56J_R7KgzV7HrPHtmFvVek9AqexdPvOBRcOxvnzF8bhjAOg-AjfZl6yLfYoBPanFFiJyKwe1cVOwkeg-4KIDLGBcR4qVPw4yICTJArsT83sBKk8WV5HgVK8ZWec/s320/20230722_130245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrrIChJvSehmi9o2kr7Jib98Ol4S2dsE9xRnq4bjojrCQFKJcqJYEnc33V8VQ6XTtyZB1MCC0Ic6NTZTfWBUDVBbnecFZW2zVe8t_iJUUi_g7xXpdp33N85ksqFDOKn4SS_37z32YTb-Jd61kVa9_8SgFgUAucI6TxB8RnFSfBCKRWDstCsBkvWNopbjc/s320/20230722_130732.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2weBvzM4iMPnatLbFQCg3V-JgcQlscqJCirlsz-5ywOJR37VyOUVvpb4CEjzfzVZHuR881nRqYDV_pOp91X_fbp3GAoTZO9k1AHiolCAiZMhwA6moKOY8iBhXBw7zQTh_RTRmJSjBNjaHr_39xxOQbiHqPTf09qxdEnvy-w9Q8HwWr6GUsYQlZXN8Uhk/s1209/20230722_130735.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2weBvzM4iMPnatLbFQCg3V-JgcQlscqJCirlsz-5ywOJR37VyOUVvpb4CEjzfzVZHuR881nRqYDV_pOp91X_fbp3GAoTZO9k1AHiolCAiZMhwA6moKOY8iBhXBw7zQTh_RTRmJSjBNjaHr_39xxOQbiHqPTf09qxdEnvy-w9Q8HwWr6GUsYQlZXN8Uhk/s320/20230722_130735.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpIutWtW52W58ONnIZ8hWP5978oP-yFHclqbMRB9SWU7ZPq0MM6BJBaBZjcTeV3sxTkYB1x81QADtAC219OD_grzXQPt_xiQaebxCMC8A9SzHfgRQkN4xuS66pARncRyJbvFLJi3mnkt2AuFVOBLkdrR6fXNEEbCteWNldnNI8ANLNtCiIsw6Pv7g27cI/s1209/20230722_132932.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpIutWtW52W58ONnIZ8hWP5978oP-yFHclqbMRB9SWU7ZPq0MM6BJBaBZjcTeV3sxTkYB1x81QADtAC219OD_grzXQPt_xiQaebxCMC8A9SzHfgRQkN4xuS66pARncRyJbvFLJi3mnkt2AuFVOBLkdrR6fXNEEbCteWNldnNI8ANLNtCiIsw6Pv7g27cI/s320/20230722_132932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7jpYe4HkNUP35Kq5VOqc2EhgC_E0cLNMUfcX0qcNozIn5ZlQRtAYq7j4rcyuU_0RHHxoS5kOT3vRLnXdIXPqour_hNZXQ-lWzTAXtZogfrQdFsx3t79X7ov4rhhl3QlGMc3iLEcqi1oe-ZfPBH-BKWehH8B0jtRcJj_o7AT1JGjb0RUfgPJPsnXrbzYQ/s1209/20230722_134002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7jpYe4HkNUP35Kq5VOqc2EhgC_E0cLNMUfcX0qcNozIn5ZlQRtAYq7j4rcyuU_0RHHxoS5kOT3vRLnXdIXPqour_hNZXQ-lWzTAXtZogfrQdFsx3t79X7ov4rhhl3QlGMc3iLEcqi1oe-ZfPBH-BKWehH8B0jtRcJj_o7AT1JGjb0RUfgPJPsnXrbzYQ/s320/20230722_134002.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver pedalato così, senza soste, una quarantina di kilometri MORTALI, c fermiamo nel primo posto apparentemente abitato che incrociamo sulla strada. Su Maps è segnalato come bar-ristorante, ma pare abbandonato da tempo. Gli edifici sono in rovina, c'è immondizia ovunque, le decorazioni penzolano dai rami coperte di ragnatele e guano. Gigi, però, ha più sete che timori e, siccome si sente della musica provenire da una casa, bussa. Gli apre una bimba che dice: "E' chiuso, ma abbiamo acqua e Coca". E quindi si fa sosta qui, all'ombra finalmente, tra insetti d'assalto e un'aria da film horror. Ma abbiamo acqua fresca e frutta secca comprata ieri, chi ci ammazza?</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTtW0FNnR5LnF3aX6H-KhwHDqS8xPnwOZkBfzrjgOoBQ0M56vS-om0a3icJVQX10M1LtFnYzLw_Zc2v6Z0aS08g6JULGRCJVktYcDk9qepkFmkHk73IzItvB9_-beYwoCqqpF0EHdgYayXP1v7LQZFuMnux0ITFIji4Ztaj4Mb2bA6FbUtjgC1Fz8i3o/s1209/20230722_134022.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTtW0FNnR5LnF3aX6H-KhwHDqS8xPnwOZkBfzrjgOoBQ0M56vS-om0a3icJVQX10M1LtFnYzLw_Zc2v6Z0aS08g6JULGRCJVktYcDk9qepkFmkHk73IzItvB9_-beYwoCqqpF0EHdgYayXP1v7LQZFuMnux0ITFIji4Ztaj4Mb2bA6FbUtjgC1Fz8i3o/s320/20230722_134022.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigzcxuQmIeOfgx1PIgtMIst4BsDV87xO30IWbrLYyuzIefhqID7397gI4pLpGw-7IC70vr7gXLnsT1tX8Ud5W7RFzPY_bfIlh8rsyHbpbw0DZm2erWrSsM3yxG2I6Of7mhyw7Rau4zMbpGLs7uIeQ2ad3HiM6DJuMHdBMlvPUD2KFEHxh1Tshs9Mz5Ukw/s1209/20230722_134654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigzcxuQmIeOfgx1PIgtMIst4BsDV87xO30IWbrLYyuzIefhqID7397gI4pLpGw-7IC70vr7gXLnsT1tX8Ud5W7RFzPY_bfIlh8rsyHbpbw0DZm2erWrSsM3yxG2I6Of7mhyw7Rau4zMbpGLs7uIeQ2ad3HiM6DJuMHdBMlvPUD2KFEHxh1Tshs9Mz5Ukw/s320/20230722_134654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_1HPd_ch78G_EyXGt_Wgg0TAzo_0kXRr7VEuK91OyOoQFm1JPj_8HeHBC0EVbSZ3uoeUNxuWCIu3GvlIro-g1Cn5l19cnCQkvVBu9V4jPxgUsKESlX2J7aGZFXuZXZO7lCZpguiDkTww28wb7JoIr5H3nJLr4I7vBpEbNd9CcL26PUW1t7HKsyFCCvw/s1209/20230722_134657.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_1HPd_ch78G_EyXGt_Wgg0TAzo_0kXRr7VEuK91OyOoQFm1JPj_8HeHBC0EVbSZ3uoeUNxuWCIu3GvlIro-g1Cn5l19cnCQkvVBu9V4jPxgUsKESlX2J7aGZFXuZXZO7lCZpguiDkTww28wb7JoIr5H3nJLr4I7vBpEbNd9CcL26PUW1t7HKsyFCCvw/s320/20230722_134657.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ripartiamo, dopo un po', con le gambe sfibrate e l'idea che non si possa più stare a lungo sotto al sole. Nonostante la crema protettiva, la pelle brucia. Il cervello è già ben cotto, i bulbi oculari esplosi come pop-corn. Però, hey! Ci sono i cactus grandi! Sono ricomparsi tra la vegetazione spontanea!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqbCyFa1ntbjeGY3XC72t8i7kg4aY2XIVRESCcshRIjRf4JPL7bcHkBktaWKVn0Fu2IMzQCwcvFvEnpHsdOgOeswgXSBLut1lFs20b9C7prjqOfqfyZ38cvqUQ3kzKUiDXVHAhVJCpWSRe5CWO6TUWiksWb7H4X_oKGCz-1kRs8v9Su-ux5ytY3QJsgY/s1209/20230722_142155.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqbCyFa1ntbjeGY3XC72t8i7kg4aY2XIVRESCcshRIjRf4JPL7bcHkBktaWKVn0Fu2IMzQCwcvFvEnpHsdOgOeswgXSBLut1lFs20b9C7prjqOfqfyZ38cvqUQ3kzKUiDXVHAhVJCpWSRe5CWO6TUWiksWb7H4X_oKGCz-1kRs8v9Su-ux5ytY3QJsgY/s320/20230722_142155.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo ancora altre salite, ed altre discese, e altre saline rosa, arriviamo finalmente ad un tratto più pianeggiante, mentre il sole molla un pochino la presa e la morsa del caldo si allenta.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV1CsXyge_gF82Kt71MRDMyDlqVNfLDeeOmu6j2Y87R-mU8104zmosM9L6-ZZaKDU6_mrODTTE3YtBXb1pd680vvc0Gl6OT_1UKaxLVBAIVvLvmEX33o2XUDhVTarW2GfzOfdhJ7eQExHnvZH5FaLA25eTmSawWUTvv7XvCHpnPC0faoETI_sTMNtO3ho/s1209/20230722_143125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV1CsXyge_gF82Kt71MRDMyDlqVNfLDeeOmu6j2Y87R-mU8104zmosM9L6-ZZaKDU6_mrODTTE3YtBXb1pd680vvc0Gl6OT_1UKaxLVBAIVvLvmEX33o2XUDhVTarW2GfzOfdhJ7eQExHnvZH5FaLA25eTmSawWUTvv7XvCHpnPC0faoETI_sTMNtO3ho/s320/20230722_143125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPhylDl7DrZdfsaQDlW6u6YYRZlASodO2x63HXWUFprudfiuoAk5l1k-wr_gTNvydW5eXJqMF7QqyVXu7jnMGqY3HsGc-chxQkS_djLSC6hNc2ZNfa93fm0jT2HNBTB3vAN-iNySoVQUxQWkAkkh1sBYwaqsAbTslT6aSwC5ITdIdFzn9GwtUh4I2v2A/s1209/20230722_143257.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPhylDl7DrZdfsaQDlW6u6YYRZlASodO2x63HXWUFprudfiuoAk5l1k-wr_gTNvydW5eXJqMF7QqyVXu7jnMGqY3HsGc-chxQkS_djLSC6hNc2ZNfa93fm0jT2HNBTB3vAN-iNySoVQUxQWkAkkh1sBYwaqsAbTslT6aSwC5ITdIdFzn9GwtUh4I2v2A/s320/20230722_143257.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCW_u3OYnSsuyVZu0Ex_WLCIG0G1vlegIImcCMA3B4fVOMRsMjNjLYfrZodmwlkzrrV3imZFaIHKoIfbS_3Ez6sZc4dvbLLPV8PttmW1MOpkE8UHOjpOY0KZsHXntAW5TzsPyzvckNbp44acm1Ln3N_5Q7EEiCN8sfChPSxgMurAaMZTVzE44elb0kG6I/s1209/20230722_144520.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCW_u3OYnSsuyVZu0Ex_WLCIG0G1vlegIImcCMA3B4fVOMRsMjNjLYfrZodmwlkzrrV3imZFaIHKoIfbS_3Ez6sZc4dvbLLPV8PttmW1MOpkE8UHOjpOY0KZsHXntAW5TzsPyzvckNbp44acm1Ln3N_5Q7EEiCN8sfChPSxgMurAaMZTVzE44elb0kG6I/s320/20230722_144520.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAZI2UarJYEaEJtAkvikmsV7o0C5xHduE86RdMnrj13CtvQ3Vq7P6w3Eqvdtk33yaZXLYjQqSAG63g2viITCfOGJd8lkbJ29rtMfykX_I-fYh8k3wmH8Spnq8vkmvWL0cL-T167IHDTcWDq44ueyqHXNxo8W6to7UhvQgD31ycBi2mS5zzixglu530r0A/s1209/20230722_145327.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAZI2UarJYEaEJtAkvikmsV7o0C5xHduE86RdMnrj13CtvQ3Vq7P6w3Eqvdtk33yaZXLYjQqSAG63g2viITCfOGJd8lkbJ29rtMfykX_I-fYh8k3wmH8Spnq8vkmvWL0cL-T167IHDTcWDq44ueyqHXNxo8W6to7UhvQgD31ycBi2mS5zzixglu530r0A/s320/20230722_145327.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO5Y7Q3vzs1rJ0QSOkqlj9ZvaG4D7dmxykBq3Qc8cahOYOGiK2N6mEi9jqxjcm_91nkID6ewEJpQ_zjM_iooLpV0UyX1oeLJUdQRztEpODjw0PY8ZtzIbSCFKWpeuszauL_GklqxPHK7tuRDseMUkdkVEUbaU8ouHHbWqWCL35_2-Z783tFsDcdKhmFow/s1209/20230722_145333.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO5Y7Q3vzs1rJ0QSOkqlj9ZvaG4D7dmxykBq3Qc8cahOYOGiK2N6mEi9jqxjcm_91nkID6ewEJpQ_zjM_iooLpV0UyX1oeLJUdQRztEpODjw0PY8ZtzIbSCFKWpeuszauL_GklqxPHK7tuRDseMUkdkVEUbaU8ouHHbWqWCL35_2-Z783tFsDcdKhmFow/s320/20230722_145333.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqH5oPe3JOjr20V2562WvIzriJHAZf-Ff5zlZkcb-CPVUE2UPb8xx9BHmMXlyNOAN1Ib3ZvFqRcVdEiLK_-P8zM-Q7BOJ6WRUE7GUcXbl_pgBwUnGRocqnfLjlKv79h_xjiwY_YWX4m3d2MM60U-dTQpH9BmBNF6HE5WtUOJFWbBMOCyUw9pSKeBUbD7w/s1209/20230722_145401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqH5oPe3JOjr20V2562WvIzriJHAZf-Ff5zlZkcb-CPVUE2UPb8xx9BHmMXlyNOAN1Ib3ZvFqRcVdEiLK_-P8zM-Q7BOJ6WRUE7GUcXbl_pgBwUnGRocqnfLjlKv79h_xjiwY_YWX4m3d2MM60U-dTQpH9BmBNF6HE5WtUOJFWbBMOCyUw9pSKeBUbD7w/s320/20230722_145401.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noi, comunque, siamo così bruciati da aver bisogno di un'altra sosta, a La tortolita. Ci buttiamo nel primo locale con tettoia e frigorifero che vediamo. E' un ristorante di pesce, dove assistiamo al rito del pranzo delle 16 a base di ceviche, capesante e cruditee varie che mi fanno venire lo sguaro anche solo a guardarle. Tra i tavoli si aggirano cani tutti costole e zecche. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIe7hdV4WB9RTaEPAT-STeJHp6psjC0KHwi9m2JagUk0NdmVGq5txcgi4CEHJJ01D46cOcwy1hi88YoyyTOdw8TUfl6QnEF-1CI6H7G8LGTs22NxyER5ZTD_2ZC3bkDWPuoD9hn3x6kinu4kGQRYfPUi4F02Irv5KO8B5BbIkl2xJ8UBakw19cg5o34I0/s1209/20230722_150431.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIe7hdV4WB9RTaEPAT-STeJHp6psjC0KHwi9m2JagUk0NdmVGq5txcgi4CEHJJ01D46cOcwy1hi88YoyyTOdw8TUfl6QnEF-1CI6H7G8LGTs22NxyER5ZTD_2ZC3bkDWPuoD9hn3x6kinu4kGQRYfPUi4F02Irv5KO8B5BbIkl2xJ8UBakw19cg5o34I0/s320/20230722_150431.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKU-UlPhi8gOinebJiYydrZ9kVLo_-E9hB_I5nxyASe-HIty9rNcIgkxWN-g9GiifAU6lnR-uL_IzIDmdoYVBOTSoWEOZjGP--d23v9VjAatrW8Yt3uSjhWAzQgA77FsRz9F8LI3Vuyn-dvHFIuLJWwY-U7c1VK9riTLOI6-AteowWweYakhvgqk03bM/s1209/20230722_150502.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKU-UlPhi8gOinebJiYydrZ9kVLo_-E9hB_I5nxyASe-HIty9rNcIgkxWN-g9GiifAU6lnR-uL_IzIDmdoYVBOTSoWEOZjGP--d23v9VjAatrW8Yt3uSjhWAzQgA77FsRz9F8LI3Vuyn-dvHFIuLJWwY-U7c1VK9riTLOI6-AteowWweYakhvgqk03bM/s320/20230722_150502.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSYKpcFrBbFEpW7ScPJ7bnshA9Z02-ZKc7z9LgKYeb39lfRs-N9HYFsKJkjQ6BLP-KTCTSXi1argGpFFUbdEP7EAshC2ivYf27dJbBndRuR8oUuR31qeY3R-FCSeldyMAXLdJ4_sYv3xsoTXi5d2AmOwwF_RikpEMApaEuS1Ust4RCvhxcfSDKwgS9FEw/s1209/20230722_150520.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSYKpcFrBbFEpW7ScPJ7bnshA9Z02-ZKc7z9LgKYeb39lfRs-N9HYFsKJkjQ6BLP-KTCTSXi1argGpFFUbdEP7EAshC2ivYf27dJbBndRuR8oUuR31qeY3R-FCSeldyMAXLdJ4_sYv3xsoTXi5d2AmOwwF_RikpEMApaEuS1Ust4RCvhxcfSDKwgS9FEw/s320/20230722_150520.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje2TLUYsXM7lbQl9rJi0wNmISPVKd8FkgXKoPXzJoBiyYGlRo4pMWXVOhsXNA5EvOOXjNOakoJEhtuv0VWOfkalGVoASaR5iyXCgFwve9Mh0uwa3Hy5_k7qtMbcv6kMeAxg0kH9xBLuqWKRC-ykat9iwq3OIbtCydsuJY6WK97lcs8DelfvQIsPPsPQqk/s1209/20230722_150529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje2TLUYsXM7lbQl9rJi0wNmISPVKd8FkgXKoPXzJoBiyYGlRo4pMWXVOhsXNA5EvOOXjNOakoJEhtuv0VWOfkalGVoASaR5iyXCgFwve9Mh0uwa3Hy5_k7qtMbcv6kMeAxg0kH9xBLuqWKRC-ykat9iwq3OIbtCydsuJY6WK97lcs8DelfvQIsPPsPQqk/s320/20230722_150529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqR7rTdKg6T95YRhEZQdX4vGh8NV7XHPC9eS0NwnhyVyQzGuL0jWNqEkseqWmFxM7OAfaUY1wLQihj6dVHaIGYC-2GzGRFjsHDFp1zCFXE65c-8D1O12vXeDPGlnIE64guY5aSDD9a3nrK7TqEXt_3I_90VnXyx6BF8UPKkH5oUxZyYk4kcQugLeggEek/s1209/20230722_150534.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqR7rTdKg6T95YRhEZQdX4vGh8NV7XHPC9eS0NwnhyVyQzGuL0jWNqEkseqWmFxM7OAfaUY1wLQihj6dVHaIGYC-2GzGRFjsHDFp1zCFXE65c-8D1O12vXeDPGlnIE64guY5aSDD9a3nrK7TqEXt_3I_90VnXyx6BF8UPKkH5oUxZyYk4kcQugLeggEek/s320/20230722_150534.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ultimi kilometri, per pedalare i quali dobbiamo dar fondo alle nostre energie, soprattutto mentali. La strada si ributta verso l'entroterra, e pedaliamo tra selvaggi declivi coperti di alberi, solo qua e là interrotti da un piccolo bananeto o un campo di mais davanti ad una capanna. Sulle cime si annuvola il cielo e rimbombano tuoni fortissimi che sembrano vicini vicini. Questo show, cui si aggiungono i lampi, prosegue per tutto il pomeriggio e tutta la sera. Ma non piove una goccia. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0Kg4pdPTVp60AetHMstYEQdlxxdmd_z9ZID6UQ3VaqjMJJHqf0hZJQdQI7sz_p4hjFh0DpNnNWk78QDvgCasmSjqQ_4sScMTRC2W0vBsECdMx8gmHaupavGd81tn4SvzmL_fAWRn1zmcAZfVX1L2bo_4LaqTguUSh1Wr9Xy4mPk7RmWiBBMyVXA6ExA/s1209/20230722_155448.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0Kg4pdPTVp60AetHMstYEQdlxxdmd_z9ZID6UQ3VaqjMJJHqf0hZJQdQI7sz_p4hjFh0DpNnNWk78QDvgCasmSjqQ_4sScMTRC2W0vBsECdMx8gmHaupavGd81tn4SvzmL_fAWRn1zmcAZfVX1L2bo_4LaqTguUSh1Wr9Xy4mPk7RmWiBBMyVXA6ExA/s320/20230722_155448.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAstmGyARVYUipiVfzUqgaB_R-1dg67yfAYuLyv39HZWRsKWPJrY1xdFmI2ZGH2TfBP27_2HLih_lX9IY2tUMCjrLytmrTC3TUsfm_dQOp-iwCzKhqsqkOEPdbAj2dsKVdGmTXFBsCkmSkYevVEa69BmU_VTAEXvOssEZFMLLSmAm8FktoXH02Pvj8StY/s1209/20230722_155454.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAstmGyARVYUipiVfzUqgaB_R-1dg67yfAYuLyv39HZWRsKWPJrY1xdFmI2ZGH2TfBP27_2HLih_lX9IY2tUMCjrLytmrTC3TUsfm_dQOp-iwCzKhqsqkOEPdbAj2dsKVdGmTXFBsCkmSkYevVEa69BmU_VTAEXvOssEZFMLLSmAm8FktoXH02Pvj8StY/s320/20230722_155454.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8YB5wxbODH_foyf5_7LL33DRNrr2jKReurFD5xmdWRifbH0Rvua6QpJrqx7gDAu1WzeOA_U3xXSdEk5OeZVSbn6LIeQgcfqO7UPjv1nSXwk-mXG7ywWLH6zQGo5-w9g3TRmFzwFr5xodePoYK8mMfTZPXSKUu5FsduhNKdBh0l9YQYOBg8I8XR7Q0n4g/s1209/20230722_155650.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8YB5wxbODH_foyf5_7LL33DRNrr2jKReurFD5xmdWRifbH0Rvua6QpJrqx7gDAu1WzeOA_U3xXSdEk5OeZVSbn6LIeQgcfqO7UPjv1nSXwk-mXG7ywWLH6zQGo5-w9g3TRmFzwFr5xodePoYK8mMfTZPXSKUu5FsduhNKdBh0l9YQYOBg8I8XR7Q0n4g/s320/20230722_155650.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4iF38o_ICCx-C50D2ByTF7CFhI8BhA3TJuLsCVUcdcuxiXK7Fa8xNe7J_GY3nbXlVM_nO1WlZLKooCWiMSHxw_1Jz6sJwOcv51z80QPnJlxh3rBVxbXfY0Dt3prSaaVsjFCddtavjXf0gUEsBhDtwiXrUb8fcUiV5zzg2r77NcNO7h-oLB1gr7EuNM28/s320/20230722_155951.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqFpDNf4SP8jdsmREKzNANjoyeC9L1rpKpxr3dCdQhqYvWH7Nr_Bl03c09i4q66TcTw8SYGT1Yk8_CVa_RYcyGwCRT1vFLVTFPBgNzlGGLZtvsd9oTvpTpq1etR2U7aC4BWqZM1RVJmRn_8iqaXtoBQmiiOJyZMK4cL7xH6TSJE_q_XKyMM7VZsrY6BNA/s1209/20230722_155955.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqFpDNf4SP8jdsmREKzNANjoyeC9L1rpKpxr3dCdQhqYvWH7Nr_Bl03c09i4q66TcTw8SYGT1Yk8_CVa_RYcyGwCRT1vFLVTFPBgNzlGGLZtvsd9oTvpTpq1etR2U7aC4BWqZM1RVJmRn_8iqaXtoBQmiiOJyZMK4cL7xH6TSJE_q_XKyMM7VZsrY6BNA/s320/20230722_155955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigzxKbYlGzZmqpioarP34ewF6yzmfivFCfX_zVxJoOkCd0Iu5UZ1mwwhVmwTqrkBJS6tg9LKMl2rBRTMLjQj480h1h-WcsrpiE-D7EBpsAIwOJo8Hv0TUft66MJqG7P83pI-nBwxD_dec_AQUBTFb6b4hNhDmGXQE9cAg2rxHt-OiwLAi0WqvDq2vzzHU/s979/20230722_160915.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigzxKbYlGzZmqpioarP34ewF6yzmfivFCfX_zVxJoOkCd0Iu5UZ1mwwhVmwTqrkBJS6tg9LKMl2rBRTMLjQj480h1h-WcsrpiE-D7EBpsAIwOJo8Hv0TUft66MJqG7P83pI-nBwxD_dec_AQUBTFb6b4hNhDmGXQE9cAg2rxHt-OiwLAi0WqvDq2vzzHU/s320/20230722_160915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOo2HFxnIYemitFDY3iaR1nEMu4pP__Pa7D7C5-_wB624Oxga2CzSaRpqNIRnkIO2pa1-2hfnAFRQBg7z8doppASJeNuieH9v94GFDzfOfiwO4pD70jJrqfLEQaHF98UDvB6Qu5lHic6r3nP-GGVok5ZWiAtsmwOSaSB4SZpksJYK1ZID3bwEPwhwHB4/s1209/20230722_162007.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOo2HFxnIYemitFDY3iaR1nEMu4pP__Pa7D7C5-_wB624Oxga2CzSaRpqNIRnkIO2pa1-2hfnAFRQBg7z8doppASJeNuieH9v94GFDzfOfiwO4pD70jJrqfLEQaHF98UDvB6Qu5lHic6r3nP-GGVok5ZWiAtsmwOSaSB4SZpksJYK1ZID3bwEPwhwHB4/s320/20230722_162007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6DMExEM1BMYqBSmJxRm24TxN7BpNeLyoRa03PZJKGxgCBW5RvSe3QwYXP95FialE2POb07lqCAp0GUbCcq2rjOTPIlcNQqkCZLwlupXgqKmZXE35nzvfxfuiXbU0rFHEJe3njHnkbvOxpvhqhmNcNuANKaOGcI7NEUG3rz7u_KGmnOEq1Xk-S5p1VMo/s979/20230722_162503.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6DMExEM1BMYqBSmJxRm24TxN7BpNeLyoRa03PZJKGxgCBW5RvSe3QwYXP95FialE2POb07lqCAp0GUbCcq2rjOTPIlcNQqkCZLwlupXgqKmZXE35nzvfxfuiXbU0rFHEJe3njHnkbvOxpvhqhmNcNuANKaOGcI7NEUG3rz7u_KGmnOEq1Xk-S5p1VMo/s320/20230722_162503.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente ci siamo. Superiamo la locanda del Caporal, l'uomo assassinato, che è chiusa e in vendita, nonostante una lucina accesa all'ingresso. Mette i brividi. Il pueblo è, perdonate il francesismo un po' supponente, un vero bucio di culo. Polvere, sabbia, quatto capanne e otto cani che ci inseguono, per l'ilarità dei passanti. La nostra casa di stanotte è una struttura gestita da alcune famiglie chontal, che hanno costruito un piccolo angolo di paradiso in mezzo al nulla. Raggiungere il posto non è cosa da poco: bisogna addentrarsi tra i sentieri sterrati del pueblo, lontani dalla strada principale (che poi è un tratto della Panamericana). Passiamo case senza porte nè finestre, in mattoni o cemento, lamiera e foglie, dove la gente è indaffarata o si dondola sulle amache, ci son maiali legati per il collo che grufolano nei cortili di fango e terra battura, e polli e bimbi che razzolano. Alcuni cani ci inseguono anche qui. Camminiamo. Una sciura ci dice che sono cattivi e la soluzione è un pedrazo sulla capa dei malcapitati perri. Non è necessario, ma il concetto è chiaro. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipmeJivRn8FapxXjJPYviMCxmVbetBpbjZ7aWGTaknSB7n5Np-9MpON3mxq7WHFtrvtmXlEdDV54oy2ap3ZkC3fnWGGpt_AFpHxI_mXrT0Pi5RYkWd_2ry38WzGahzI3JdWEJOZMVMYMKtSSlT22pvuUZ_gVGwvpK9dPr6iRjQJY1QrQLPX83uZpcQaHY/s1209/20230722_172535.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipmeJivRn8FapxXjJPYviMCxmVbetBpbjZ7aWGTaknSB7n5Np-9MpON3mxq7WHFtrvtmXlEdDV54oy2ap3ZkC3fnWGGpt_AFpHxI_mXrT0Pi5RYkWd_2ry38WzGahzI3JdWEJOZMVMYMKtSSlT22pvuUZ_gVGwvpK9dPr6iRjQJY1QrQLPX83uZpcQaHY/s320/20230722_172535.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnabhwVNwJQphbukwYPrMcP9G5L8_p2eTzIO47UZZjpHGdFiFBpdhPDxN_M8tRzqBfXZ4YlND2rdLQMAm9gkcEB6eV-VEJVDaN7k8yx6OcPVbSvM8bkEYgqQGXBMlAiwlpaeYpZV5DhhNThdcDALje5lfzNy9qUxQs7zvyrK2nXv0ACjlxmY3n2nRhnNY/s1209/20230722_172537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnabhwVNwJQphbukwYPrMcP9G5L8_p2eTzIO47UZZjpHGdFiFBpdhPDxN_M8tRzqBfXZ4YlND2rdLQMAm9gkcEB6eV-VEJVDaN7k8yx6OcPVbSvM8bkEYgqQGXBMlAiwlpaeYpZV5DhhNThdcDALje5lfzNy9qUxQs7zvyrK2nXv0ACjlxmY3n2nRhnNY/s320/20230722_172537.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La signora che ci apre è gentilissima e tutta un sorriso. Ci mostra con orgoglio la struttura, ci dice che domani possiamo rimanere fino a sera, senza problemi. Le spieghiamo che partiremo comunque sul presto, e lei ci rimane un po' male, ma poi si fa animo e promette che domattina verrà a salutarci, ma ora deve andare. Vive a un isolato da qui. Ci lascia soli e noi godiamo della pace di questo locus amoenus che ha tanto di amache, sedie a dondolo e mega cucina all'aperto con forno per la pizza e grigliona.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYgCCnnkrdA8_HYxIJQoNRozdJuvkqy2nu_Hn7jXzICEvd6idj2xldGkCtpGDRvEctBCb8d8o0IPStaFiO7ghb6g82ofEChan_wyraQDyv_cVfZcHwcHUmkPM0C65kcca6ID5_XzqxMgiOgEXd3d36xAN6cpP3k7EC4RmMJjcLRndNb_E4yhVrxicxJY/s1209/20230722_183925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYgCCnnkrdA8_HYxIJQoNRozdJuvkqy2nu_Hn7jXzICEvd6idj2xldGkCtpGDRvEctBCb8d8o0IPStaFiO7ghb6g82ofEChan_wyraQDyv_cVfZcHwcHUmkPM0C65kcca6ID5_XzqxMgiOgEXd3d36xAN6cpP3k7EC4RmMJjcLRndNb_E4yhVrxicxJY/s320/20230722_183925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlCaOJx3LEzNqfjafJ8kZU1DPyDI0I8n61nhN7ZVL7d7rTudJ1nI-QbMdSYp4f-TmZIcoMhdxXq6GLPzgt2z-PgP_oBDmKpMbL5k4_SH8pcTvkrHHd8OXi5Deacc_8xK9mwhVdpc_wXG6Va_e1JBMz6mda0WygKsmn3GW5Sv_oMhAip_Fuypf6MjvlxE/s1209/20230722_183949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlCaOJx3LEzNqfjafJ8kZU1DPyDI0I8n61nhN7ZVL7d7rTudJ1nI-QbMdSYp4f-TmZIcoMhdxXq6GLPzgt2z-PgP_oBDmKpMbL5k4_SH8pcTvkrHHd8OXi5Deacc_8xK9mwhVdpc_wXG6Va_e1JBMz6mda0WygKsmn3GW5Sv_oMhAip_Fuypf6MjvlxE/s320/20230722_183949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2dAYELOIc7di6BYhLOSPkkCirwWN7NIuAmNAfcOPZnRIRykGhN313cPmvPpZiI1dd34fVtvZokAlGx1pJUhBAyN1-JDW1v7DWekfm1XU7uAooBnYpqKQdswz4S486Mp1kLHqpoxP_o6jQPzSbCejd8QMZBcL_ymWOS6JrhVkezbVHOFXXxpTVi6Ekac/s1209/20230722_184007.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2dAYELOIc7di6BYhLOSPkkCirwWN7NIuAmNAfcOPZnRIRykGhN313cPmvPpZiI1dd34fVtvZokAlGx1pJUhBAyN1-JDW1v7DWekfm1XU7uAooBnYpqKQdswz4S486Mp1kLHqpoxP_o6jQPzSbCejd8QMZBcL_ymWOS6JrhVkezbVHOFXXxpTVi6Ekac/s320/20230722_184007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkIcJi2SF-uv1-ctWUTx2XB7selXuD3Bx-0QNMCa2OLOaA3IavlAQVAJv6JPGRfMwqoKodgKixEBNugnmQKkBR_y18lb5MIWdZTMewoz15e-jOFre79lVkWyaVnVokkvo1NvJNQ3iBg7tT7kd67ZJK_yWzJfQSRR6ji61FL40F1Q5Jje52Oh4t_6RHXuY/s1209/20230722_184010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkIcJi2SF-uv1-ctWUTx2XB7selXuD3Bx-0QNMCa2OLOaA3IavlAQVAJv6JPGRfMwqoKodgKixEBNugnmQKkBR_y18lb5MIWdZTMewoz15e-jOFre79lVkWyaVnVokkvo1NvJNQ3iBg7tT7kd67ZJK_yWzJfQSRR6ji61FL40F1Q5Jje52Oh4t_6RHXuY/s320/20230722_184010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYKU4lINZzxBv05Ftv_sDLfZm-pzpNapYCsv6LMaB4TjcndY1VgKVq0JJiGq7t_x1-3QM7oJ13pdVUNoejQxc40hR7iJZP-D03SMDnDsyJrjaAIiKBdwPKcWnYXh4ifhO1qFfPXaJ0qy0YdzmEg2o0dbi0iGHorkv7Du1TvewRqi30Ta6Hv93RsEt9tI/s1209/20230722_184034.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYKU4lINZzxBv05Ftv_sDLfZm-pzpNapYCsv6LMaB4TjcndY1VgKVq0JJiGq7t_x1-3QM7oJ13pdVUNoejQxc40hR7iJZP-D03SMDnDsyJrjaAIiKBdwPKcWnYXh4ifhO1qFfPXaJ0qy0YdzmEg2o0dbi0iGHorkv7Du1TvewRqi30Ta6Hv93RsEt9tI/s320/20230722_184034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4vMF30fDnj6kjdJUoucVg8aGsCaP642sYhpsP--fPI5Sgis0rotOp8CJwjZoAHXHW6Tt0dHuvsW5L8d9H_lAszdzhzDaKSPqQ4n7qoZK-D0dBwuR9ztyIxXUIl23-hbtMdTSTxtlun5rEgwFH0p2bzo9ORBxLMPnooIfAtmchk--IB8Nb-bNyDqcWMB4/s1209/20230722_184044.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4vMF30fDnj6kjdJUoucVg8aGsCaP642sYhpsP--fPI5Sgis0rotOp8CJwjZoAHXHW6Tt0dHuvsW5L8d9H_lAszdzhzDaKSPqQ4n7qoZK-D0dBwuR9ztyIxXUIl23-hbtMdTSTxtlun5rEgwFH0p2bzo9ORBxLMPnooIfAtmchk--IB8Nb-bNyDqcWMB4/s320/20230722_184044.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHgx3U-oxcnkvdB3snLyIflTjnETi_ZuFebUr04diFPOyI8uJ7Qg5QFMUOZzLe2jMfRb5l0iE3D5WzVe4WDGB4WQI7mRX3AH5SRBCyoxkR0aqWP7rrt2vAUZF0_mcxPkvNM3wOVrilaOxUziiAbppWvpymBxcQDNjJFVZ0iFufpv3LGxqdqbC9QIBuqro/s1209/20230722_184115.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHgx3U-oxcnkvdB3snLyIflTjnETi_ZuFebUr04diFPOyI8uJ7Qg5QFMUOZzLe2jMfRb5l0iE3D5WzVe4WDGB4WQI7mRX3AH5SRBCyoxkR0aqWP7rrt2vAUZF0_mcxPkvNM3wOVrilaOxUziiAbppWvpymBxcQDNjJFVZ0iFufpv3LGxqdqbC9QIBuqro/s320/20230722_184115.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEWgugAz3ZRT9Cq9H-S4LgrpXJ3H8WsaemaEIF91LcPCyj0_wVpngilZGd9dUNFN0XOkNsdW8z7zPe4YaT3Snc85zb8KGd2FLqxrZJwWDfJ2w2HjkjkrQu1_Zi5kqgQXHyLzb2hxpmqBZas3qN7owhqct8zuhoKLG4KgvHnlffDv4aenSdGrr0AJj_jEY/s979/20230722_184225.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEWgugAz3ZRT9Cq9H-S4LgrpXJ3H8WsaemaEIF91LcPCyj0_wVpngilZGd9dUNFN0XOkNsdW8z7zPe4YaT3Snc85zb8KGd2FLqxrZJwWDfJ2w2HjkjkrQu1_Zi5kqgQXHyLzb2hxpmqBZas3qN7owhqct8zuhoKLG4KgvHnlffDv4aenSdGrr0AJj_jEY/s320/20230722_184225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo la doccia sacrosanta, studiamo la tappa di domani. Ormai siamo a due giorni da Puerto Escondido, da cui poi lasceremo la costa per affrontare le montagne, diretti alla città di Oaxaca. Inizialmente avevo previsto, per domani, di far tappa a Puerto Angel, ma è città più cara e senza facile e diretto accesso alle spiagge. Quindi optiamo per prenotare un bungalow a Zipolite, proprio sulla spiaggia, a una manciata di metri dalla battigia. Non so se si è capito, ma con tutta la fatica che ci costa la costa, almeno un bagnetto vorrei farlo! E quindi via, per domani siamo a posto.</div><div>Fuori è buio, e il prato davanti alla nostra casetta è una festa di lucciole. Ce ne sono a centinaia! E lo sa bene el señor sapo gigante, che si aggira in zona in piena caccia. Dalla foto non si capisce, ma questa bestia è lunga quanto il piede di Gigi, che pota il 44!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IbsFuLs9CGMw6pfTYCW8B6RofoQTmHW5HaICIWbN4HoZ44NP69I8Dj60MgCBVkangddvNi1nV3FICfs6ljcVt4xLJ1IxULhZGjmho6mmpH59tpStTJDtKQLzSoZzTu2Db9gechMQ9Zd7qaxQQSC-_7FyTqmXVZKb4ol3x_paFdSP50rr0S9zX09Uwck/s1209/20230722_193818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1IbsFuLs9CGMw6pfTYCW8B6RofoQTmHW5HaICIWbN4HoZ44NP69I8Dj60MgCBVkangddvNi1nV3FICfs6ljcVt4xLJ1IxULhZGjmho6mmpH59tpStTJDtKQLzSoZzTu2Db9gechMQ9Zd7qaxQQSC-_7FyTqmXVZKb4ol3x_paFdSP50rr0S9zX09Uwck/s320/20230722_193818.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per cena le opzioni sono piuttosto limitate. Torniamo sullo stradone e troviamo due taquerie identiche, una accanto all'altra, a gestione superfamiliare (nel senso che il ragazzo che prende l'ordine poi va a liberare le mani alla moglie, che aveva in braccio un bimbo di pochi mesi, così lei può cucinare). L'igiene un'altra volta, ma ormai ce la sentiamo calla e siamo ottimisti. Ordiniamo gli unici due piatti che servono: un orden di 5 tacos con carne mista (ivi comprese interiora di ogni genere, ma ben sminuzzate) e una tlayuda, specialità della zona. Si tratta di una tortilla grande come una pizza, tostata, croccante, che viene farcita con carne, formaggio, salse e verdure. Assistiamo alla preparazione dei tacos nella cucina che affaccia alla strada, e della tlayuda sul grande forno a fuoco aperto che si trova poco indietro. I tavoli sono tutti occupati e noi destiamo curiosità. Molti anziani sfilano avanti e indietro per osservarci da vicino, salutarci, e poi andare a confabulare tra loro.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqr3Shm7kqV1A2WUO-42W2AKlVVEg7rcHwrGKTwfX1EF8uv2B-81yMkcWc-QeOZQFK_OEyHrYlpXu0FdUTGpB9uBzEVpjwTFrtJo3t36Wh8rmuRWDrxWOlwXZ54GOk5FAeIYaKNmG4RQXJEeatc4i6SWj9zYinbEh5z29p1NECrdewn9mJ1Rw8VhAEHk/s1209/20230722_194932.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqr3Shm7kqV1A2WUO-42W2AKlVVEg7rcHwrGKTwfX1EF8uv2B-81yMkcWc-QeOZQFK_OEyHrYlpXu0FdUTGpB9uBzEVpjwTFrtJo3t36Wh8rmuRWDrxWOlwXZ54GOk5FAeIYaKNmG4RQXJEeatc4i6SWj9zYinbEh5z29p1NECrdewn9mJ1Rw8VhAEHk/s320/20230722_194932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzzFsfvHrHnx-pz2PuG2rslx1CJdCa1fwzMNBGamWO2O8FlOGUaUyAE2fVautR7xzqvpiBN9cpJMKqrQqmmacCk5r5ehoNcYtwjGM7iZU3W-gm3MNvGoc4nuX2FXBfwLVCJXHamax5d-hGS4gjE6zy0tcmFyCi0nWOvVI4TcoeX6oqP3iv9WPVTWYzIxE/s1209/20230722_194937.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzzFsfvHrHnx-pz2PuG2rslx1CJdCa1fwzMNBGamWO2O8FlOGUaUyAE2fVautR7xzqvpiBN9cpJMKqrQqmmacCk5r5ehoNcYtwjGM7iZU3W-gm3MNvGoc4nuX2FXBfwLVCJXHamax5d-hGS4gjE6zy0tcmFyCi0nWOvVI4TcoeX6oqP3iv9WPVTWYzIxE/s320/20230722_194937.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUOEi9Dear8xnZHyWKiG273k7Nkgs7oDWkQYIoI4L4UEb-9gk6ZNdWetlGdSL07juu0EcmV3Yj_h7aLOp2c4eez5aa6Ei_WAjVwV-Nac-BbrU3e1UTbH0XO_l7QOJywsgS5lVktbjzri2hhRAzO96DS-Zs-CBAFKNTNWat3XqE8-ZkrplFWRpLN9ppY8/s1209/20230722_194952.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYUOEi9Dear8xnZHyWKiG273k7Nkgs7oDWkQYIoI4L4UEb-9gk6ZNdWetlGdSL07juu0EcmV3Yj_h7aLOp2c4eez5aa6Ei_WAjVwV-Nac-BbrU3e1UTbH0XO_l7QOJywsgS5lVktbjzri2hhRAzO96DS-Zs-CBAFKNTNWat3XqE8-ZkrplFWRpLN9ppY8/s320/20230722_194952.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0T8YV2UYN1a51Pc-Pd2pA288IAP4VAzwRLkn3n85ZSvIFvOki2lsZLxyPngR6vy5_HHA7oT_bOiA0bzwJabeFrwsJtcB3ob7-jKB9PraG1FyKr8Wx7ax54QNDyl4J2OpbdXutLaedzuvg4wBhVD0967lajgZS0AihgIPvao4Q58ISi9GnQMvlnqykDzs/s1209/20230722_195617.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0T8YV2UYN1a51Pc-Pd2pA288IAP4VAzwRLkn3n85ZSvIFvOki2lsZLxyPngR6vy5_HHA7oT_bOiA0bzwJabeFrwsJtcB3ob7-jKB9PraG1FyKr8Wx7ax54QNDyl4J2OpbdXutLaedzuvg4wBhVD0967lajgZS0AihgIPvao4Q58ISi9GnQMvlnqykDzs/s320/20230722_195617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQEkXTOTIfkS5gc75BH-pDrQqAoJJ9Fsb0K2dJlxNoyIzJ9djjjAIB9HmZYRlCWv4oBG_RZ1KmLDHKCl1LvOVyzeEwPTO3jQ5t2qaU-Zl8rc8r-i2WHmJ0sUqDLbHr-fEFOLRzTy0GANXNn0s2YpCxx3fzlbePR7-snVsTocQ6vxSsqjIEr7-Erj34e-8/s1209/20230722_195713.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQEkXTOTIfkS5gc75BH-pDrQqAoJJ9Fsb0K2dJlxNoyIzJ9djjjAIB9HmZYRlCWv4oBG_RZ1KmLDHKCl1LvOVyzeEwPTO3jQ5t2qaU-Zl8rc8r-i2WHmJ0sUqDLbHr-fEFOLRzTy0GANXNn0s2YpCxx3fzlbePR7-snVsTocQ6vxSsqjIEr7-Erj34e-8/s320/20230722_195713.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhpY0HlwfbMlN5BIyuPBM0ffbQ8S4v7JkBUjLtyNbTMCATrV5P3Mgt0MN5l3o8TcCGjppEsjdPHWhA2zZ8diEWghwNpZC3alXnxEbUoZMnVdIAbwkP_akqGjEP0jiU94pi7vDXs-C2LZaTGUlSEYfXz0KdN_aGA9iNgJ0IowQPiH32D__ys8MtH1G-Vk/s1209/20230722_201056.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhpY0HlwfbMlN5BIyuPBM0ffbQ8S4v7JkBUjLtyNbTMCATrV5P3Mgt0MN5l3o8TcCGjppEsjdPHWhA2zZ8diEWghwNpZC3alXnxEbUoZMnVdIAbwkP_akqGjEP0jiU94pi7vDXs-C2LZaTGUlSEYfXz0KdN_aGA9iNgJ0IowQPiH32D__ys8MtH1G-Vk/s320/20230722_201056.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La cena costa pochissimo, ma, come si può vedere, in questi locali i tacos sono tanta tortilla e poca carne. Mentre mangiamo assistiamo al suicidio di un nugulo di mosche che, una ad una, cascano nelle salse che ci sono state portate al tavolo, affondano, e diventano parte della salsa stessa. E' la salsa autorigenerante (dettaglio splatter: le medesime mosche, poco prima, come accade da giorni, prendono di mira la testa ferita e con crostone -che a volte si spacca e sanguina- di Gigi. E' una scena che non vi auguro di vedere mai questo mix di mosca su crosta e poi nella salsa).</div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo avervi donato questa splendida immagine, eccoci qui, di nuovo nella nostra casina, dopo aver fatto scorta di acqua e spesa per domattina, camminando nell'oscurità del paese che è privo di illuminazione pubblica, ma è una festa di luci e lucette nelle case, radio che ronzano musica da ballare e lucciole nei prati.</div>Si sta bene (anche) qui.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkeR4bQ02zqvXzrHZxzoM1knHx4Wf5pHEG80e7eUPyHDr6HcYc0aVh2OwgBtS-tQvyo667n3Px2_JnRzfHMWDXzUTExhOqM_MZvVM4vqGas80gsRYE7tCQ5N3kTeZ8G3KAQdCiPWyHYVvMrcqFum9zoLNoPCr1xzGX1LYWFMwTDMmApn6fj57zrbiMdfs/s1209/20230722_205136.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkeR4bQ02zqvXzrHZxzoM1knHx4Wf5pHEG80e7eUPyHDr6HcYc0aVh2OwgBtS-tQvyo667n3Px2_JnRzfHMWDXzUTExhOqM_MZvVM4vqGas80gsRYE7tCQ5N3kTeZ8G3KAQdCiPWyHYVvMrcqFum9zoLNoPCr1xzGX1LYWFMwTDMmApn6fj57zrbiMdfs/s320/20230722_205136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>23/7</div><div>El coyul-Zipolite</div><div>105km</div><div><br /></div><div>E' sera, poco prima delle undici. Mi sto dondolando pigramente su una amaca, che è appesa in balcone. Sotto di me, sotto alle assi di legno della casa, sabbia e acqua che va e torna. Le onde del Pacifico lambiscono questa striscia di terra, che è d'oro e perla, frammenti di conchiglie, vento. Siamo all'hostal Brisa del mar, e mai nome fu più adatto. La battigia non dista da noi metri o kilometri. SIAMO sulla battigia. Il fragore delle onde è costante e ritmato, e copre tutti gli altri suoni, la musica, i tamburi degli artisti di strada. Bevo un sorso di succo d'aloe, che non è mezcal, ma chi lo sa. Nel buio brillano la luna e altre lucine sparse sulla spiaggia. L'aria è densa di odore di marijuana, e io sto qui, sull'amaca, ad ascoltare la voce poderosa e antica dell'oceano. Ripenso a qualche ora fa. Sono rimasta in acqua a lungo, per lavar via la stanchezza, lo stress, la fatica accumulati oggi e nei giorni scorsi. Fare il bagno nell'oceano qui è meraviglioso. L'acqua è calda. La spiaggia lunghissima di sabbia fina. Arrivano onde alte alte che permettono di giocare come quando, da bambina, sfidavo gli amici e il mare grosso a Bordighera, tuffandomi sotto al rullo o galleggiando sulla cresta. A non aver paura ho imparato allora. E i marosi massaggiano e i muscoli sfibrati. Il corpo galleggia, si fa leggero, sospeso, ad occhi chiusi, nel buio tiepido. Mi metto spesso in posizione fetale, trattenendo il fiato. Non sembra nemmeno più di esser soggetti alla forza di gravità (e grazie al ca... Ad Archimede!) e agli attriti. Questa sensazione mi rimette al mondo. E' così diversa dalla fatica titanica della tappa. Dalla continua lotta contro alle colline, alle pendenze, al vento. Trascinare la Signorina felicità su e giù per questa costa selvaggia non è impresa facile. Anzi, è una pena. La pena di Sisifo. Io non ho il macigno da spingere in cima al pendio, ho una bici che pesa quanto me. E non rotola giù all'indietro, per carità, ma il continuo susseguirsi di collinette piccole e ripide dà l'impressione di esser sempre al punto di partenza. I kilometri non scorrono sul ciclocomputer, solo il tempo passa. L'impressione è quella di esser sempre fermi nello stesso punto, ma sempre più stanchi, più bruciati dal sole. Fisicamente è impegnativo, ma mentalmente è sfiancante. Oggi sono arrivata a un certo punto, all'ennesima salita, in cui mi son resa conto di aver esaurito la dose quotidiana di forza di volontà. Volevo fermarmi lì dov'ero, e non pedalare più nemmeno un metro. Fi-ni-ta! Ma sul fondo del barile qualche goccia residua di determinazione si trova, e il richiamo dell'oceano aiuta.</div><div><br /></div><div>Riprendo con ordine.</div><div>Stanotte, nonostante tutte le carte in regola per una bella dormita, ci siamo svegliati spesso madidi di sudore, e per gli strilli assordanti di certi merlacci grossi come tacchini. Quindi, anche oggi, siamo partiti presto e un po' rincoglioniti, dopo aver fatto colazione in camera e dopo aver salutato la signora ospite, che è venuta a darci il buon giorno. Si è un po' raffreddata nei miei confronti perchè, mentre entrava non vista, ha assistito alla scena di me che faccio cadere la borraccia appena riempita nella sabbia e tiro giù un rosario complesso e colorito che dura un paio di minuti, nella quiete della domenica mattina in campagna, tra augelli che fan festa e farfalline. Ma pace, oh. Arrivederci, signora chontal (che significa "straniero" in nahuatl, la lingua azteca).</div><div><br /></div><div>Usciamo dal paese più camminando che pedalando, un po' per via dei perri maledetti, che oggi si rivelano un problema a più riprese, un po' perchè le strade interne non sono asfaltate ma fatte di sabbia ben profonda, su cui anche trascinare la bici camminando è difficile. Il pueblo è quello che è. Abitazioncine più o meno incompiute, un grande accumulo di robaccia e immondizia nei cortili, insieme ai polli, ai cani e qualche maiale, e i bimbi.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmoay3jsf-w59R-l2yCScTw80KdrBNXAHS-bI5lEztjS3sqKzHs7Vm3hDnp1BFsqduHoY3KxCmvlQ1JVvGJc80rQx6Ebdp--XmqjWk8jsejvRc47R-8f1fl0NUYPEgCFj6HY-b5kcQ4S489t9_E-bz7K3-kCVVcxfkJARXI3xA-Yoy5-JI7_zhQTCclVg/s1209/20230723_082958.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmoay3jsf-w59R-l2yCScTw80KdrBNXAHS-bI5lEztjS3sqKzHs7Vm3hDnp1BFsqduHoY3KxCmvlQ1JVvGJc80rQx6Ebdp--XmqjWk8jsejvRc47R-8f1fl0NUYPEgCFj6HY-b5kcQ4S489t9_E-bz7K3-kCVVcxfkJARXI3xA-Yoy5-JI7_zhQTCclVg/s320/20230723_082958.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilH52L89gBwkvFPqvQZaaXPlJc0oGN9USCpc2pH2TXaeW_NFvEefP8sWN7oZWRdm_-3WXNp07nWuDYvwAaRKWQ2-TBZTBI9jzQWKJSnELNBIZrkqF6uvfQFf10PpK0n96av-HWEonUoDS4dcv84RVl4I6afR4qLwVIfv-d--ns-LoRvOwmcZ4ofxDWBFU/s1209/20230723_083016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilH52L89gBwkvFPqvQZaaXPlJc0oGN9USCpc2pH2TXaeW_NFvEefP8sWN7oZWRdm_-3WXNp07nWuDYvwAaRKWQ2-TBZTBI9jzQWKJSnELNBIZrkqF6uvfQFf10PpK0n96av-HWEonUoDS4dcv84RVl4I6afR4qLwVIfv-d--ns-LoRvOwmcZ4ofxDWBFU/s320/20230723_083016.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9xrgUddcMweyBOxzBXpZmI-mut6byyLw4hIFGXt8yok96HBg3rUcrS3rtp76DCqPv4D0TtnexJe5ZNsfCLnqpj-Om-dm8VfY86zJs_ZWVcMjm2kY8a1R8KAI1Xva0SADhPMgallITOkYLE2ht5rbHq-ciOOqgctoZ4T3QD1kT8CgCfHFhXemMqdxeBO8/s1209/20230723_083050.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9xrgUddcMweyBOxzBXpZmI-mut6byyLw4hIFGXt8yok96HBg3rUcrS3rtp76DCqPv4D0TtnexJe5ZNsfCLnqpj-Om-dm8VfY86zJs_ZWVcMjm2kY8a1R8KAI1Xva0SADhPMgallITOkYLE2ht5rbHq-ciOOqgctoZ4T3QD1kT8CgCfHFhXemMqdxeBO8/s320/20230723_083050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiup8fbfLyDKVSSKzQiQ8WOpb_0rtTg-L8nPJm4X74Sz_W2eOusmO9L1sbC5Y4ULhqdwN9BIcm0j63YkgWRsdkgxfG9zHmJ4p0aQzh3ZJuXXD8m9jhl5UvzhT2kXeZJy4BqD8cwl9bQRL9Bd3jc7y9fYte4hl8mLrId8G_-zfPwjenDQVvR3R2SpJcLnxM/s1209/20230723_083053.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiup8fbfLyDKVSSKzQiQ8WOpb_0rtTg-L8nPJm4X74Sz_W2eOusmO9L1sbC5Y4ULhqdwN9BIcm0j63YkgWRsdkgxfG9zHmJ4p0aQzh3ZJuXXD8m9jhl5UvzhT2kXeZJy4BqD8cwl9bQRL9Bd3jc7y9fYte4hl8mLrId8G_-zfPwjenDQVvR3R2SpJcLnxM/s320/20230723_083053.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Appena torniamo sulla strada, ci rendiamo conto di cosa significhino davvero quelle piccole linee spezzettate dei profili altimetrici più volte consultati. Significano fatica. Come dicevo prima, la strada sale e scende ogni manciata di kilometri. Per questo si procede lentissimi: la discesa non basta a dar slancio per la salita successiva, e bisogna subito scalare le marce, e frullare con il rampeghino. Le discese, sì, si fanno a cannone, sfidando dossi, buche e tornanti senza protezione a valle. Ma durano un nulla. Poi si è subito rallentati, e tocca iniziare a spingere, chini sul manubrio e con la schiena spezzata come bestie da soma. Il tutto sotto ad un sole che porta il casco, i vestiti, la bici e la pelle a scottare. Intorno, colline. Foresta fitta. Nessun pueblo per i primi 37km.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbAW1hwKRpN-LZYoa3E8XMK8ldZc-syZzyW91Hx1KvL6fqq2l1rpJfks1nkOi-Lyj4Ctk2vFylrS3mc0tNKmaNBWku1S3XBTYfByzZYO5L1GrdBj73ydl4ZXTAqfdcqo_1FOHm4Wzc3UvpcOK5eIr2jfR4l1suhP6CgV7Oi3hTMMspe-_z6-zOsav10s/s1209/20230723_101718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbAW1hwKRpN-LZYoa3E8XMK8ldZc-syZzyW91Hx1KvL6fqq2l1rpJfks1nkOi-Lyj4Ctk2vFylrS3mc0tNKmaNBWku1S3XBTYfByzZYO5L1GrdBj73ydl4ZXTAqfdcqo_1FOHm4Wzc3UvpcOK5eIr2jfR4l1suhP6CgV7Oi3hTMMspe-_z6-zOsav10s/s320/20230723_101718.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFkvwLWe09BJu9CgZ3xsFgExDMf8-j9bHKZrTy28xw0OnR6OwAijgrXEisNdQFlDnSICGUTtDPmiqIvkg7V_DzP0C2KepsuiQKxOsfXJW1BuJG8sN6YcJBXhIsh0HXCc2FuUXoAWCbuwmDlYFzmWWfPvEWhIaJIZyIO8-6b1_DRSasuNqpjqb3_Bo1RgM/s1209/20230723_101728.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFkvwLWe09BJu9CgZ3xsFgExDMf8-j9bHKZrTy28xw0OnR6OwAijgrXEisNdQFlDnSICGUTtDPmiqIvkg7V_DzP0C2KepsuiQKxOsfXJW1BuJG8sN6YcJBXhIsh0HXCc2FuUXoAWCbuwmDlYFzmWWfPvEWhIaJIZyIO8-6b1_DRSasuNqpjqb3_Bo1RgM/s320/20230723_101728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Al primo paese facciamo sosta. C'è musica alta che esce da un paio di locali ancora aperti da ieri sera. Sono tutte palapas, capanne, a parte il bar e pochi altri edifici. Nella polvere caliginosa, un ubriaco in cenci luridi si rotola a terra cercando di alzarsi. Un amico lo aiuta nell'impresa, che richiede quasi mezzora. Tanti ci salutano, un po' brilli, o forse solo storti di natura. Non suoni stronzo questo commento: sembra la corte dei miracoli. Non ce ne è uno sano sia nel corpo sia nella mente. Ma son tutti gioviali e amichevoli, e in vena di chiacchiere (ma sbiascicate al punto da risultare incomprensibili). Mentre riposiamo e ci reidratiamo come cammelli assetati, mi metto in contatto con le guide locali di Playa Escobilla, un santuario delle tartarughe marine che visiteremo domani. Le guide, via Whatsapp, mi confermano la fattibilità della cosa. Andata! Sono contentissima!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy3YsGTRJfXnuwmfNTFR4KL-NhCjZIAglmZEWYMpW5_VLy7LyoaZ0G12MdKrV13TU43O8ljEcQTN9vWasfl4tBSAIp7unWzGCltC35U4FlSjc3r4tonDnYZOKodmOM7N8qBaD5AJAOIWRFqy2kdhDmHr1Q_Vu6TbDM62_xXysI8452G63Ox1-MxkXJyjA/s1209/20230723_111550.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy3YsGTRJfXnuwmfNTFR4KL-NhCjZIAglmZEWYMpW5_VLy7LyoaZ0G12MdKrV13TU43O8ljEcQTN9vWasfl4tBSAIp7unWzGCltC35U4FlSjc3r4tonDnYZOKodmOM7N8qBaD5AJAOIWRFqy2kdhDmHr1Q_Vu6TbDM62_xXysI8452G63Ox1-MxkXJyjA/s320/20230723_111550.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTf4HWvNsuwYL-No3ps7XvNrgWQnJfhoOxtwufdby57VeNT8v3elELu9IxcDTfYIYoMFzadjxqULjV7XGPSOzB3-YQkpDDmnHoJYtBDqFb7EGiLEsIIJL_gewdBX00WVhoHCcBb6NhD2D0ubGLi_jttmEFHHeb0jIS0EKnkMkbbvLfCl3Sohhv8QC_nM/s979/20230723_111559.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGTf4HWvNsuwYL-No3ps7XvNrgWQnJfhoOxtwufdby57VeNT8v3elELu9IxcDTfYIYoMFzadjxqULjV7XGPSOzB3-YQkpDDmnHoJYtBDqFb7EGiLEsIIJL_gewdBX00WVhoHCcBb6NhD2D0ubGLi_jttmEFHHeb0jIS0EKnkMkbbvLfCl3Sohhv8QC_nM/s320/20230723_111559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEyuOlofPf6nN1-jEjibZNuo7l0PvmiJcYFhyEKKq27R8wYlloTdqkPMnqbHgPqC7b8K57kav9j-hrO3QvK7ZnGuvVnRXGFZlHJNlvjzMnAFmJT5-JFA8JD_3sM5Rw8UpyCSn-SiP-B2ccHYnJbdL_ks2gUNnuGvnF1U74GQnVTwt_UF9npomWuTwEos/s1209/20230723_111625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEyuOlofPf6nN1-jEjibZNuo7l0PvmiJcYFhyEKKq27R8wYlloTdqkPMnqbHgPqC7b8K57kav9j-hrO3QvK7ZnGuvVnRXGFZlHJNlvjzMnAFmJT5-JFA8JD_3sM5Rw8UpyCSn-SiP-B2ccHYnJbdL_ks2gUNnuGvnF1U74GQnVTwt_UF9npomWuTwEos/s320/20230723_111625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-356NlKBUPAv7smW7Q1HCkT_BrIVdhKQAlxNuuxS01zLNGmotipvpOgNiXNa4mxW8pA9sgFBTiHFQbVzEaexLMhI9IKSary3bDwrjUdHe9Dw9Z_YctFi_7X1mCaeDvcTowCknyYCdh8Sut5b_nwWmy6ig7xcgXGZevKnN8lXG-qOaljlyH9eeWvSkSBo/s1209/20230723_111636.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-356NlKBUPAv7smW7Q1HCkT_BrIVdhKQAlxNuuxS01zLNGmotipvpOgNiXNa4mxW8pA9sgFBTiHFQbVzEaexLMhI9IKSary3bDwrjUdHe9Dw9Z_YctFi_7X1mCaeDvcTowCknyYCdh8Sut5b_nwWmy6ig7xcgXGZevKnN8lXG-qOaljlyH9eeWvSkSBo/s320/20230723_111636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Ci rimettiamo in sella un po' a malincuore, controvoglia, sapendo che la tappa è ancora lunga da pedalare, le salite infinite e, per di più, stanno arrivando le famigerate ore calde della giornata. Come se altre fossero fresche! Animo, si va. Conto i kilometri uno a uno, poi le centinaia di metri. Raggiungiamo la riserva di Huatulco, che è parte di un interessante esperimento di sviluppo turistico. Fino a metà anni '80 qui c'era solo qualche isolato villaggio di pescatori. Poi arrivò Fonatur, agenzia turistica finanziata dal governo, con il compito di sviluppare il turismo nelle nove baie, bellissime e selvagge, di questo tratto di costa. Il rischio era che si creassero ecomostri come a Cancun, ma qui la crescita è stata più dolce ed ecologica, meno invasivo e meno impattante per l'ambiente. Gli alberghi fronte oceano sono costruzioni poco appariscenti, la foresta sulle colline è protetta come parco naturale e ci sono stringenti divieti che impediscono la cementificazione selvaggia. Insomma, il turismo è arrivato ma senza far troppo danni. Noi non scendiamo a vedere le spiagge e la barriera corallina, perchè sono raggiungibili solo tramite strade che finiscono in mare, non collegate tra loro. Attraversiamo invece il parco naturale, dove sono segnalate all'attenzione dei conducenti diverse specie animali. Si vedono sui cartelli e spiaccicate, del pari bidimensionali, sulla strada.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5MvYWKTMZYZly5hnqqU90w3x6s2gYulZwfzoM7YNR9EXS9npm8xfU-XnhBikCPlyPb-bOQ-hqOLrR1vzC1wBT0Kw-G3o8XNJYK4Gh86_GkQ0b4yFK5hTjhK6K7cGrZXHX1pcBK0XYcvlZHNTjUHs7ZTkoKw0tr1ny8MwrThQZKzS6DL8d66-3JbKcEjY/s1209/20230723_123737.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5MvYWKTMZYZly5hnqqU90w3x6s2gYulZwfzoM7YNR9EXS9npm8xfU-XnhBikCPlyPb-bOQ-hqOLrR1vzC1wBT0Kw-G3o8XNJYK4Gh86_GkQ0b4yFK5hTjhK6K7cGrZXHX1pcBK0XYcvlZHNTjUHs7ZTkoKw0tr1ny8MwrThQZKzS6DL8d66-3JbKcEjY/s320/20230723_123737.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVu4PpSJO5kG5DE1ePhK1uBVO9hpRTQ-C-Tr7jWOKrXu42qagWxK_OzyKJXtH0Qv4EA_r4QX0CQkfg8FAqTA65wBkCDaN0GcdYm3oXNKI3KDrLNWExweV8DlXjF90ywf3BwJW735riroHGt7IKHxX5OgB3oEn1wa084gu1nDXvGVPtXtl5yD2RjdGvqA/s1209/20230723_123744.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVu4PpSJO5kG5DE1ePhK1uBVO9hpRTQ-C-Tr7jWOKrXu42qagWxK_OzyKJXtH0Qv4EA_r4QX0CQkfg8FAqTA65wBkCDaN0GcdYm3oXNKI3KDrLNWExweV8DlXjF90ywf3BwJW735riroHGt7IKHxX5OgB3oEn1wa084gu1nDXvGVPtXtl5yD2RjdGvqA/s320/20230723_123744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWFDDUIJoeeXyYZuPYC-dUyTLkfiL6Rdktp1N9-d1Ay37R71pBdBb2THJV_XOlvBcr3ljGQqj3HxNQRqdsplOmjzIu9vqQf5ipxILEt8wu5mydNDa7kxvwYOhfsx5xD4QlgvVWsEhX8rBcMnjqG7E4dFOGJAu2qCEa1kJKYymL29NdE4j7cZPpshDFmI/s1209/20230723_123824.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinWFDDUIJoeeXyYZuPYC-dUyTLkfiL6Rdktp1N9-d1Ay37R71pBdBb2THJV_XOlvBcr3ljGQqj3HxNQRqdsplOmjzIu9vqQf5ipxILEt8wu5mydNDa7kxvwYOhfsx5xD4QlgvVWsEhX8rBcMnjqG7E4dFOGJAu2qCEa1kJKYymL29NdE4j7cZPpshDFmI/s320/20230723_123824.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhioBUB3_42xGRTGs5Cu7Wvkd-QO5YMAaA2USHjlCq_BPqyDOKiQplcOJIfEzDYOLMU5aCCqrzsWrBMsrYtVcgQRJIQ3xA7gfYbbCj43u7JK9Eh6gwHZplSovq_q2f4ZJ-nAiDEdquJq-6xCY5A4qkifh0ecU7vf8EtIbkGRmStYGlMOsKWIWtoY49Mw/s1209/20230723_125333.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhioBUB3_42xGRTGs5Cu7Wvkd-QO5YMAaA2USHjlCq_BPqyDOKiQplcOJIfEzDYOLMU5aCCqrzsWrBMsrYtVcgQRJIQ3xA7gfYbbCj43u7JK9Eh6gwHZplSovq_q2f4ZJ-nAiDEdquJq-6xCY5A4qkifh0ecU7vf8EtIbkGRmStYGlMOsKWIWtoY49Mw/s320/20230723_125333.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9-SlDysqDAnEGbTV_IK49DLrOY37Jk6Tco-DLNvG7OHSoRY4z2_6w71YY4K_SU45DypljQXWVMmObmkDq8cJn8ATWhIsOFzOVIT6C99KTonxTJyn9k4pc83biX4HveD5suDXgm_acGeKHry-Grpbfr3ikgq0ug-LI_ZWMSY5ZaTXzLpiosedcjmV15o/s1209/20230723_125758.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_9-SlDysqDAnEGbTV_IK49DLrOY37Jk6Tco-DLNvG7OHSoRY4z2_6w71YY4K_SU45DypljQXWVMmObmkDq8cJn8ATWhIsOFzOVIT6C99KTonxTJyn9k4pc83biX4HveD5suDXgm_acGeKHry-Grpbfr3ikgq0ug-LI_ZWMSY5ZaTXzLpiosedcjmV15o/s320/20230723_125758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Facciamo un'altra sosta presso l'area di servizio vicina all'aeroporto di Huatulco. Assistiamo a un andirivieni di gente che mi sta antipatica a pelle. Sono Messicano e Statunitensi, tutti ampiamente sovrappeso, con la lardera in vista, in costume e spesso a piedi nudi, che sgomitano per accaparrarsi il pacchetto di patatine più grande, la CocaCola più grossa, con Iphone nuovi di pacca e occhiali da sole di marca. Coppie, famiglie con pargoli annoiati e risvegliati solo alla promessa di un giochino da comprare. Tutti sgarbati con le commesse e tra loro, incapaci di non inciampare nelle nostre bici. Che fastidio. Ce ne andiamo dopo aver fatto scorta d'acqua, e sapendo che mancano ancora più di 40km. Cioè anche 5 ore in sella, se le salite non mollano. Se non altro un temporale di quelli apocalittici, che colpisce le valli attorno a noi, rinfresca l'aria. Tuona, lampa e si vedono colonne d'acqua come cascate a pochi kilometri dalla strada. Ma su di noi no. Questa volta veniamo risparmiati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyC--mdBAtFf41swqeZmf4dzkRWAVbzwlixYeiU2BDNVaHVVwKJu7O-m05dJbYVAY6H4ADMkk30XkM82kmtmODeRx8a89K_VpPkL6FUzQ1lBCmvzWLhda40xkVluCi_35vZ1_oSFnGgn4pYuzvyP5n6HZ2b9XLpfwxlVMt2L1sj3yU86nHrhAFqpJos8/s1209/20230723_143210.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyC--mdBAtFf41swqeZmf4dzkRWAVbzwlixYeiU2BDNVaHVVwKJu7O-m05dJbYVAY6H4ADMkk30XkM82kmtmODeRx8a89K_VpPkL6FUzQ1lBCmvzWLhda40xkVluCi_35vZ1_oSFnGgn4pYuzvyP5n6HZ2b9XLpfwxlVMt2L1sj3yU86nHrhAFqpJos8/s320/20230723_143210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2AkJrbX7m8zHe1mEyoY-DMgzqQDJ7lIq9xXVvaNVqZO2gc-p8RLELeX3qussd0dm9-8GdDJyCHf_wweFmv6bkuLnttlgqk_QrlbKL8ihJWlSgOBnzrJI0ego-G4ErtyjiK4evn8X-maiIPRlziJ1RARF1KYt_4f3cQG9zXWlP6yAwty_tjDZlaPyDsY/s1209/20230723_143213.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2AkJrbX7m8zHe1mEyoY-DMgzqQDJ7lIq9xXVvaNVqZO2gc-p8RLELeX3qussd0dm9-8GdDJyCHf_wweFmv6bkuLnttlgqk_QrlbKL8ihJWlSgOBnzrJI0ego-G4ErtyjiK4evn8X-maiIPRlziJ1RARF1KYt_4f3cQG9zXWlP6yAwty_tjDZlaPyDsY/s320/20230723_143213.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UKTfvu-wIpn-Izq2abvqcWkQe9t5ZpQ3UGtbVYSZLlbHLO7icTbwjA0m9WAPxW0-31vf2P8snpYzvfnOi1rm_4QxE3UJrv69r_0rh3VvoNTv2dnKqf4vARMwRY6KEveSBx2ALDLHrTl8De_YcF6OwllMl1YgdLM3zfyzHxd8srb05izAkCLXUJL3hRA/s1209/20230723_151538.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UKTfvu-wIpn-Izq2abvqcWkQe9t5ZpQ3UGtbVYSZLlbHLO7icTbwjA0m9WAPxW0-31vf2P8snpYzvfnOi1rm_4QxE3UJrv69r_0rh3VvoNTv2dnKqf4vARMwRY6KEveSBx2ALDLHrTl8De_YcF6OwllMl1YgdLM3zfyzHxd8srb05izAkCLXUJL3hRA/s320/20230723_151538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A questo punto, intorno agli 80-90km, la situazione inizia a farsi critica. Siamo bolliti, i cani ci inseguono, il temporale armagheddon ci insegue, le salite ci frenano. Per farcela ce la si fa, non ho dubbi. Ma con quale sforzo. Ha senso? Vale la pena? Non hanno ragione i messicani che ci superano ammassati nel retro dei furgoni, e che ci credono folli? Siamo forse, davvero, pazzi? Bamboline del Mezcal, ditemelo voi. Abbiamo perso il senno?</div><div>Mi pongo queste domande, mentre trascino la bici sull'ennesima rampa, urlo contro agli ennesimi cani, facendoli scappare, e quasi collassando, ma solo quasi.</div><div>Sia Gigi sia io stiamo avendo anche problemi con la trasmissione e il cambio, per cui è tutta una girandola di catene caduti e madonnine infilzate.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4c_QQeGzinpnDicqJrf_vEcZ1plTSGk7SHaqS_huLOrWJZl1gpGxiKNm5ZM95IPMW-Ec28hqkcxXKq3RZI3DufxgA59spZ5j6zexzCoLHpFbvLkLm4G9O6NiA88-UtDCcCnc3HXb9niRWPtHpdrG-S1CSMMl63_-zg6YBSbE80udqjxb2vq1DSOyXp4/s1209/20230723_152734.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB4c_QQeGzinpnDicqJrf_vEcZ1plTSGk7SHaqS_huLOrWJZl1gpGxiKNm5ZM95IPMW-Ec28hqkcxXKq3RZI3DufxgA59spZ5j6zexzCoLHpFbvLkLm4G9O6NiA88-UtDCcCnc3HXb9niRWPtHpdrG-S1CSMMl63_-zg6YBSbE80udqjxb2vq1DSOyXp4/s320/20230723_152734.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1XupCldxFdhBSQ6Vv_6N8kjY-qbspqgqUp7INPDUSnl0lEtRTLb9IQTyga3HoWQ7ZcByCOnJ7xIR-nAOlbEjh7z32u9Rp5THAws7OTPN9E786xPN1QgohBf0g1aMj08NPWM-zgfejvO7OsBl6_QK_Cezsu4ZtQGTOIAc7qB0MTMaoV0pP0OPf3u-l4iA/s1209/20230723_152748.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1XupCldxFdhBSQ6Vv_6N8kjY-qbspqgqUp7INPDUSnl0lEtRTLb9IQTyga3HoWQ7ZcByCOnJ7xIR-nAOlbEjh7z32u9Rp5THAws7OTPN9E786xPN1QgohBf0g1aMj08NPWM-zgfejvO7OsBl6_QK_Cezsu4ZtQGTOIAc7qB0MTMaoV0pP0OPf3u-l4iA/s320/20230723_152748.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi, finalmente, arriviamo a Pochutla, che la guida si limita a definire: "Animata, calda, umida, snodo di trasporti. Non ci sono altre ragioni per visitare questa città". Terra dell'omonima etnia, la cui lingua si è estinta un secolo fa, appare come un grumo di baracche, anziani che si trascinano nella polvere, canu ossuti e pollame sparso. Ci basta così. Lasciamo, a questo punto, dopo giorni, la Panamericana, per svoltare tutto a sud, verso la costa. Penserete voi: in discesa, finalmente! No, non subito. Prima qualche kilometro di salita ancora.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EnvDJAhQt5c2PcWewzG0_A7jD70Nt_e4BPDHW74Ya-DsOAjnbV0yDc0zAhleJt6vCvldZhhVzDUyIKr_r8_BMLVp9aN-kY_90yWNmDH1k-uzOPK2F7Bk7rnI_URUHqjvGHVk3CN8O53hx3feMOYsKi73aQovSIZ9XV-CGM_kktuiOTHomNLSQ9YuxEU/s1209/20230723_161725.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9EnvDJAhQt5c2PcWewzG0_A7jD70Nt_e4BPDHW74Ya-DsOAjnbV0yDc0zAhleJt6vCvldZhhVzDUyIKr_r8_BMLVp9aN-kY_90yWNmDH1k-uzOPK2F7Bk7rnI_URUHqjvGHVk3CN8O53hx3feMOYsKi73aQovSIZ9XV-CGM_kktuiOTHomNLSQ9YuxEU/s320/20230723_161725.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ma poi, finalmente, l'agognata discesa arriva, e ci porta con un soffio di brezza fresca al cospetto di sua maestà l'oceano. La porta d'accesso a questo tratto di costa spettacolare è Puerto Angel, che ha l'aspetto del tipico villaggio di pescatori messicano, un po' colorato, un po' trasandato (anche perchè qui, tra uragani e terremoti, è tutto un ricostruire). Ci sono barche e non tavole da surf, taquerie, non pizzerie. Pensavamo, inizialmente, di fermarci qui per la notte. Ma poi ho visto le foto e la descrizione del villaggio immediatamente successivo. Zipolite, e ho subito cambiato idea. Quindi procediamo, con una salitella a strappo e poi, finalmente la costa in piano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8LoZPSHDDQThGk2XXTstcF9r3JEZF8keP8Hzwf4U9BaLn93ghC4AuAONCzmronkedG_RtOcvgTEM_NtpBRBZ91t_awZNOAv4-mqg6Q1wGGrSPu60cePYExIk4PFXPOJ4c_rvaFBC8GXEPohd4xW0B0d4wYqzmTkWKNoW8PgBQHroRc7NzhYSkc_-7GL4/s1209/20230723_165721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8LoZPSHDDQThGk2XXTstcF9r3JEZF8keP8Hzwf4U9BaLn93ghC4AuAONCzmronkedG_RtOcvgTEM_NtpBRBZ91t_awZNOAv4-mqg6Q1wGGrSPu60cePYExIk4PFXPOJ4c_rvaFBC8GXEPohd4xW0B0d4wYqzmTkWKNoW8PgBQHroRc7NzhYSkc_-7GL4/s320/20230723_165721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HJTyhxX9mHmUUBOcl4XpFqqLFbKTjny4NA5Rn40AEqoIJkLGxKKpxnRA5hukLi5a3MQSnhyUvQOPH6Ki7ZYZ7gRDQ672CT-0YZxA0pCT35Cr5CMEwHqgtDjoHGI4ZhyXRv57AT6eLNofXFHrhs5y3m85sc4iFSLbOLex8QJhPuxjXWSjSdaci2RUkj8/s1209/20230723_165736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HJTyhxX9mHmUUBOcl4XpFqqLFbKTjny4NA5Rn40AEqoIJkLGxKKpxnRA5hukLi5a3MQSnhyUvQOPH6Ki7ZYZ7gRDQ672CT-0YZxA0pCT35Cr5CMEwHqgtDjoHGI4ZhyXRv57AT6eLNofXFHrhs5y3m85sc4iFSLbOLex8QJhPuxjXWSjSdaci2RUkj8/s320/20230723_165736.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOV_a2gW4mbkXCBXDSSYkd3YsVoqjO3gnKkmiV7-IrvSbLV4nY3eput036AbfmiAarjrHvWG6RXdVEAP9uLtXGqt7IOMcKoSLPFNFIC5Ht78jPGT-lpUmpwKY1kODYaE1mbYEq2ss74ikFD3hbwU09w2WZmoZOjZq2bT34sZq8pdgyWF5vCIKFiAIQJts/s1209/20230723_165739.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOV_a2gW4mbkXCBXDSSYkd3YsVoqjO3gnKkmiV7-IrvSbLV4nY3eput036AbfmiAarjrHvWG6RXdVEAP9uLtXGqt7IOMcKoSLPFNFIC5Ht78jPGT-lpUmpwKY1kODYaE1mbYEq2ss74ikFD3hbwU09w2WZmoZOjZq2bT34sZq8pdgyWF5vCIKFiAIQJts/s320/20230723_165739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Zipolite ci appare subito per la meraviglia che è. Un languido villaggio dove il dolce far niente è un'arte, si vive bene con poco e si resta lontani dal casino, dal lusso e dai boutique hotel e dai giocatori di golf. In compenso è pieno di hippie giovani e attempati, gays, nudisti integrali, rasta, fricchettoni messicani o d'importazione. Le case sono palapas o strutture in legno. La via centrale corre accanto alla lunga spiaggia ed è tutta una bancarella di cibo, collanine, pipe da oppio e manufatti artistici. La gente va in giro scalza, in costume con dei cannoni tanti e chitarre e bonghi. Insomma, tutti gli stereotipi sono rispettati! Ma che pace, che buen vivir!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5s-V8po7HYaqbaoo-O0tLHGi4wyJm6Sk8Sy40k4Hw-Osj_gWEk4mn2xyH4sm3RX25SHJmNm8aBZuynIn6iZiGtkTWpHSfY9caTfhoOJcrFcb_uRyEPGtAUcnyP687JfbqV_x8hsP58C7tYOjf9YHAwkNR_4yBv7N66RM1wsfJG5nLxvLPBEjBkGZ6Tls/s1209/20230723_172058.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5s-V8po7HYaqbaoo-O0tLHGi4wyJm6Sk8Sy40k4Hw-Osj_gWEk4mn2xyH4sm3RX25SHJmNm8aBZuynIn6iZiGtkTWpHSfY9caTfhoOJcrFcb_uRyEPGtAUcnyP687JfbqV_x8hsP58C7tYOjf9YHAwkNR_4yBv7N66RM1wsfJG5nLxvLPBEjBkGZ6Tls/s320/20230723_172058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVj3bONlWzu4s4bM1VXQk2QI64VlxXKjEDe0Iv_Hn0S74U7Khbt3KvoUkjrN8wSEeyS5uG3I4GVge7xnKPmUZdZpoOUIBIURWHWAsFGSgURweBjDHXYkHBRazdMIIpQpFr5mlLJaK8zOu_x4MFYIFDz2ShJ47z2UHzvKUDR_M8z-5-JXsO_hBfW-IPM1A/s1209/20230723_172201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVj3bONlWzu4s4bM1VXQk2QI64VlxXKjEDe0Iv_Hn0S74U7Khbt3KvoUkjrN8wSEeyS5uG3I4GVge7xnKPmUZdZpoOUIBIURWHWAsFGSgURweBjDHXYkHBRazdMIIpQpFr5mlLJaK8zOu_x4MFYIFDz2ShJ47z2UHzvKUDR_M8z-5-JXsO_hBfW-IPM1A/s320/20230723_172201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtR3CIvTu7r5kO_8mYYYtT0dyyvmFt3dbwRkDJCotAzH_uydgVAEAgdiW-1Ze9JBW5OBnt4SH1jDrFfdpa4-7MYuPU3rzWugc4yMhFMVfI4POnZP_m-KHjFhM5RDUSI1fZ3RamIfJ2rPIL8QMdtSzsTxtmEK2MXezje7XSp6zFjf5k22HL-L6F2IkkC5k/s1209/20230723_172309.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtR3CIvTu7r5kO_8mYYYtT0dyyvmFt3dbwRkDJCotAzH_uydgVAEAgdiW-1Ze9JBW5OBnt4SH1jDrFfdpa4-7MYuPU3rzWugc4yMhFMVfI4POnZP_m-KHjFhM5RDUSI1fZ3RamIfJ2rPIL8QMdtSzsTxtmEK2MXezje7XSp6zFjf5k22HL-L6F2IkkC5k/s320/20230723_172309.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ewacI3otOQffVMQaBaVx0YbI0SQAUBxVlpBm_hKSUOx2JTeQT3qxn7oawa4PRr3-pn2CV6gNmMmV_KQCY8xVBJrwrxbqGTnDYRi45N5wi1uWi8o6v-X1H8LlbapN7bX4o2U3gFZPrP9STTwZtdi58WdMsk4mTQZyy5gMVeUYKq735N6LZgsWWHjTJPo/s979/20230723_172316.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ewacI3otOQffVMQaBaVx0YbI0SQAUBxVlpBm_hKSUOx2JTeQT3qxn7oawa4PRr3-pn2CV6gNmMmV_KQCY8xVBJrwrxbqGTnDYRi45N5wi1uWi8o6v-X1H8LlbapN7bX4o2U3gFZPrP9STTwZtdi58WdMsk4mTQZyy5gMVeUYKq735N6LZgsWWHjTJPo/s320/20230723_172316.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La nostra casa di oggi, poi, è una chicca. Una grande struttura in legno sulla spiaggia, con la camera che pare una cabina di nave e affaccia al Pacifico, con un balcone dotato di amache e sdraio sospeso sul bagnasciuga.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwU3batyf-ZpgsaP2VkB_gRTJF9zrUBfKDbtD30Qq9Yl-nUAUrchAPi43lcA8fKdy2CMGYthaA0-Y_kqdIxPScc08eCVP-44MJmeQbtTlEBM8xCwd-t9m7QNB_JiNE3VEq8b-7GlHr5SGDvQKTco1cZVvz5ex9bJo8dmmPwUurC5CBn4RoPZZ3wESXxg/s979/20230723_173202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwU3batyf-ZpgsaP2VkB_gRTJF9zrUBfKDbtD30Qq9Yl-nUAUrchAPi43lcA8fKdy2CMGYthaA0-Y_kqdIxPScc08eCVP-44MJmeQbtTlEBM8xCwd-t9m7QNB_JiNE3VEq8b-7GlHr5SGDvQKTco1cZVvz5ex9bJo8dmmPwUurC5CBn4RoPZZ3wESXxg/s320/20230723_173202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhUOcl5eM1iR_cepbsMNkeU0ABMRa6-aUBB2VglVefCzEiMU1qnwWaC5d68GRcRJIIZrfZ3eGH4cmDqfhacgF6-5azJgAGEDJg9tZl6gCuK1nXKd85gpIVcS4TuyGeiAQygTHNHuVyxPIa2sUjtGV6gvSlff_t-WwOTnjrnKNy4CvnUcF5u95cwRf5co/s1209/20230723_173235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhUOcl5eM1iR_cepbsMNkeU0ABMRa6-aUBB2VglVefCzEiMU1qnwWaC5d68GRcRJIIZrfZ3eGH4cmDqfhacgF6-5azJgAGEDJg9tZl6gCuK1nXKd85gpIVcS4TuyGeiAQygTHNHuVyxPIa2sUjtGV6gvSlff_t-WwOTnjrnKNy4CvnUcF5u95cwRf5co/s320/20230723_173235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVRz3E4i901IE_Ra4URvw0RPVHiB9GdL05Y6JgM2ZAbsLbIcmI5ikdKrutuVAk0NQnWhrc42yMeJ91jIFFK2wBYdzt8pIZwZVFlG-6s-jTT_Xe-M3n0KycgXmhwzZNamC88j8vq_8ZMAF_fYjjY2X-OKlApiJMb0QHQ5sZQxR7ffPnmjqW5yhEjrRkLA/s1209/20230723_173245.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVRz3E4i901IE_Ra4URvw0RPVHiB9GdL05Y6JgM2ZAbsLbIcmI5ikdKrutuVAk0NQnWhrc42yMeJ91jIFFK2wBYdzt8pIZwZVFlG-6s-jTT_Xe-M3n0KycgXmhwzZNamC88j8vq_8ZMAF_fYjjY2X-OKlApiJMb0QHQ5sZQxR7ffPnmjqW5yhEjrRkLA/s320/20230723_173245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIalSImnoGx-6_DUUJRh0UqnVHeGh5nmDMkpA77e0C1Hu8k1GkGU6g3xIL-CobcIWE6aNCXaP9aJ2RlKPNOvcpVyvyKdRjVmQuIpQmwTn7KcnNJvXIDp_StVpM0WPO9QS_qS2ddlKISyMV19wLD0JPgKMQTckltBF7Ljpej-8pXL-vv3lwg2oZUTiEkIk/s1209/20230723_173253.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIalSImnoGx-6_DUUJRh0UqnVHeGh5nmDMkpA77e0C1Hu8k1GkGU6g3xIL-CobcIWE6aNCXaP9aJ2RlKPNOvcpVyvyKdRjVmQuIpQmwTn7KcnNJvXIDp_StVpM0WPO9QS_qS2ddlKISyMV19wLD0JPgKMQTckltBF7Ljpej-8pXL-vv3lwg2oZUTiEkIk/s320/20230723_173253.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dvyOf7W_Oemibgj9kDbpg48tf0s09N4k2dS3dviuHbZxGKs_fLYWMnF6IKxdUAqBa8wC0-UTIOP4W0ZvkCCYqizICwVJMZJPiZBTlzHOQ044RtOJhDbZnyO0cVIQhM_I8ADt44rONiP3uldMIAnfI6HDsbH6Ewz_JddJuZ6zk6Oud2_Gc-__iXBWmMg/s1209/20230723_173427.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dvyOf7W_Oemibgj9kDbpg48tf0s09N4k2dS3dviuHbZxGKs_fLYWMnF6IKxdUAqBa8wC0-UTIOP4W0ZvkCCYqizICwVJMZJPiZBTlzHOQ044RtOJhDbZnyO0cVIQhM_I8ADt44rONiP3uldMIAnfI6HDsbH6Ewz_JddJuZ6zk6Oud2_Gc-__iXBWmMg/s320/20230723_173427.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHm9ZSDs0B8GLVojvjjKytKC2dSa2kfIM43lyE5dkcOnw9-WyH4pxy0T7ZbrC9LnR-pHVr_YEaz8iq8QRt5E4-smmqhxY160i4UrnNW3PjTGRONQ7Rc1wOuPcNbuUBrkOo_qOZwb76YEfPyqOZPlEcIbx4sm9fzUdNBU-sjJPYlJqoLruLWuwAIeE7LI/s1209/20230723_173436.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHm9ZSDs0B8GLVojvjjKytKC2dSa2kfIM43lyE5dkcOnw9-WyH4pxy0T7ZbrC9LnR-pHVr_YEaz8iq8QRt5E4-smmqhxY160i4UrnNW3PjTGRONQ7Rc1wOuPcNbuUBrkOo_qOZwb76YEfPyqOZPlEcIbx4sm9fzUdNBU-sjJPYlJqoLruLWuwAIeE7LI/s320/20230723_173436.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyIyIXt9pQc8AC3r-grMULfn6gtheaI-KLCzESYH28DjoreccUIH8oKZZtprZx2HyUnPWqyU549xMtTddWAsZSKnpFhiy9PX2iopl510f7m1n_-j2YNrtg-PMXVEHMQ7JoJ5UsOIO-akkZAei8z7DOc3eg8r_LXs4sI1FiYh7AK7yI1m2mE22Um0_yGjs/s1209/20230723_173502.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyIyIXt9pQc8AC3r-grMULfn6gtheaI-KLCzESYH28DjoreccUIH8oKZZtprZx2HyUnPWqyU549xMtTddWAsZSKnpFhiy9PX2iopl510f7m1n_-j2YNrtg-PMXVEHMQ7JoJ5UsOIO-akkZAei8z7DOc3eg8r_LXs4sI1FiYh7AK7yI1m2mE22Um0_yGjs/s320/20230723_173502.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Prima di aver finito di portare in camera le borse io sono già in costume, pronta a tuffami in acqua. Sono giorni che aspetto questo momento! Esploro un po' la spiagge, tra tettine e piselli al vento, e poi mi butto. Rimando in ammollo a prender le onde per quasi un'ora, fino al tramonto, anche perchè l'acqua è caldissima!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Imun_ve2S34S6eKxJdQ3uokWfzxJnw1K6wmhJIpwmu9xCkIM5c9TRQvPRdJbXuIMP25g-ZZE_Mb1q6EwdvY8pa3nJixeVp-QbjCqgywUtpVVKL4oZCbj7hT0J-NEJ8IddG6YmGcMkJaoMWgD9TxOmkb73Rf3hep2_EiL0G5_vjOCvZggeMCoidfsilw/s1209/20230723_174348.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Imun_ve2S34S6eKxJdQ3uokWfzxJnw1K6wmhJIpwmu9xCkIM5c9TRQvPRdJbXuIMP25g-ZZE_Mb1q6EwdvY8pa3nJixeVp-QbjCqgywUtpVVKL4oZCbj7hT0J-NEJ8IddG6YmGcMkJaoMWgD9TxOmkb73Rf3hep2_EiL0G5_vjOCvZggeMCoidfsilw/s320/20230723_174348.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7_jMVEDgbdXZw99d3Hkq6mj_ArXbc71BdUFst6inD3vO_CfwOUmYKbJlUxNRc6mYcwj_kxkJMN_aS72FJnuvTGcp9TYx00XYTBfxAGqMmWfuFfTVfMxsM61X41NAc8-ieO2Jjnr6QapK_jyqym_Vrus2_w2k7JkKODgk3w5Ew4dYedFHByrJVXt7yR8/s1209/20230723_190447.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE7_jMVEDgbdXZw99d3Hkq6mj_ArXbc71BdUFst6inD3vO_CfwOUmYKbJlUxNRc6mYcwj_kxkJMN_aS72FJnuvTGcp9TYx00XYTBfxAGqMmWfuFfTVfMxsM61X41NAc8-ieO2Jjnr6QapK_jyqym_Vrus2_w2k7JkKODgk3w5Ew4dYedFHByrJVXt7yR8/s320/20230723_190447.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7s-Fv48NfziPAe5uytNR-1NGaCJDZSUluMW5qu52wJvUrl6WtNPZwxe6Ky9jso8AUrj7taOMuoBgiywyHw-yRDnFTRjoWCQdKzkqVDf9pwQW8f1JOjUExSsd_wQdNaVxAU3-R-dWE4kIscwcglc8R2OELqOGx7OCH90ypyrOWIsG-UthU9jK-1RRyw4g/s1209/20230723_190507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7s-Fv48NfziPAe5uytNR-1NGaCJDZSUluMW5qu52wJvUrl6WtNPZwxe6Ky9jso8AUrj7taOMuoBgiywyHw-yRDnFTRjoWCQdKzkqVDf9pwQW8f1JOjUExSsd_wQdNaVxAU3-R-dWE4kIscwcglc8R2OELqOGx7OCH90ypyrOWIsG-UthU9jK-1RRyw4g/s320/20230723_190507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver assistito allo spettacolo pirotecnico del tramonto, usciamo a cena. Optiamo per una mezcaleria che fa anche da mangiare, e la scelta di rivela azzeccata.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHEZbPfKu6Vl_9SSGYbhnvC6YBYJ72D2SB-skBXs7KYvUatg2gjdVJM-0jAjK6vwT1hCVcL3VKl_BS_vf7vONw1_3EYigCoCom9lBSuJf-AKSp-F3R6MYYaoCrqlFfcd2JN-RjVsy4qH7ATJrbAyIN2dtoq1OOPTXHCDwPs83VzDzS1MqN9ZpY4gvMYs/s1209/20230723_194108.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHEZbPfKu6Vl_9SSGYbhnvC6YBYJ72D2SB-skBXs7KYvUatg2gjdVJM-0jAjK6vwT1hCVcL3VKl_BS_vf7vONw1_3EYigCoCom9lBSuJf-AKSp-F3R6MYYaoCrqlFfcd2JN-RjVsy4qH7ATJrbAyIN2dtoq1OOPTXHCDwPs83VzDzS1MqN9ZpY4gvMYs/s320/20230723_194108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOVh4MxnU8KLeon-FQSbzQZ84ZYl7Bb1PdHjvwOXK9Q-UWg9KQhkSfWflgYzJjcpW4QcR6CR32_vwiLA3Xxf08SQfCvUDGr9X_menzIk8_Ycph7cLQLXC7NJ5BD3lY7rFEh1a6vOmpU0bxCOA4qhpHaXOEj47Ck_XjttzTFi-NEp5uAgAsKvy5Jr5oJT8/s1209/20230723_201151.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOVh4MxnU8KLeon-FQSbzQZ84ZYl7Bb1PdHjvwOXK9Q-UWg9KQhkSfWflgYzJjcpW4QcR6CR32_vwiLA3Xxf08SQfCvUDGr9X_menzIk8_Ycph7cLQLXC7NJ5BD3lY7rFEh1a6vOmpU0bxCOA4qhpHaXOEj47Ck_XjttzTFi-NEp5uAgAsKvy5Jr5oJT8/s320/20230723_201151.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4wCF3EcssLKsHbZ8RxUty527yMyVhdGfGc-FMSBHNqZ3uSEg9SFBIkERyeXu8mVngO9nNkc8x9JSifoLYYzCxHw9oahaKLcqa-IGHsLCvAY6k5yI8hfnffS4CFhbpE2RM9NcC34CW8VTLgMmrc4APbd5QsIyyXgoj3-S0tx2P2cVVreS1jKNhcLCugaE/s1210/20230723_202329.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4wCF3EcssLKsHbZ8RxUty527yMyVhdGfGc-FMSBHNqZ3uSEg9SFBIkERyeXu8mVngO9nNkc8x9JSifoLYYzCxHw9oahaKLcqa-IGHsLCvAY6k5yI8hfnffS4CFhbpE2RM9NcC34CW8VTLgMmrc4APbd5QsIyyXgoj3-S0tx2P2cVVreS1jKNhcLCugaE/s320/20230723_202329.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioyHbSBoANiszfpRGThL7SBmIMVrzu-4iW6zwlxRxmZ_XGwNuamWkdCuJNE9IO-MhxpEvj33dtDaA-gkKSn-7oPN7gY_vLhGTmGaowBvtbcvPzni4d9jyofJk_Yp-eYXTBhCgphl5d8mXPLOLFGhA4KWXGePnTEtfsDnOoU-SOq6Jv_iZvNs3MCe0QGAM/s1209/20230723_203708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioyHbSBoANiszfpRGThL7SBmIMVrzu-4iW6zwlxRxmZ_XGwNuamWkdCuJNE9IO-MhxpEvj33dtDaA-gkKSn-7oPN7gY_vLhGTmGaowBvtbcvPzni4d9jyofJk_Yp-eYXTBhCgphl5d8mXPLOLFGhA4KWXGePnTEtfsDnOoU-SOq6Jv_iZvNs3MCe0QGAM/s320/20230723_203708.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Ora si chiude la ringkomposition. Sono sull'amaca, sul balcone sospeso sopra alle onde che cantano con la loro voce possente. Quasi tutte le lucine si sono spente. La luna, che è sottile come un'altalena, si è alzata e ruba il palcoscenico alle stelle, che qui sono tantissime e ridono ammiccando di argento siderale. Potrei stare qui una settimana, un mese, un anno. Il tempo non è un ingranaggio che stritola, ma un corso e ricorso di onde lunghe.<br /><div><br /></div><div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">24/7</div></div></div><div style="text-align: left;">Zipolite-Puerto Escondido</div><div style="text-align: left;">72km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Se il buon giorno si vede dal mattino, noi per oggi siamo a cavallo di un cavallone. Abbiamo dormito cullati dal canto del Pacifico, e l'alba ci ha sfiorati filtrando tra le assi di legno delle pareti, goccia a goccia come miele. L'aria è fresca e sa di sale.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQawngafXrdixI69SQvSRNsOMLPhLYK7gqqyDnTPbk_LNw_0-iqt5PXlPv_EzVvtWUV1Ce7zTNac63Q-CcHxtN_TndFEOq9tz46jw2Y6RqVRyBfaHQPGTQJv8Vplm0jLnAXnhjiJo2OSGL2g-U8JTkrYcEyq4Hfa2wE5k5QCM4z7w-lW-sHvOP0Bz1rZc/s1209/20230724_072619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQawngafXrdixI69SQvSRNsOMLPhLYK7gqqyDnTPbk_LNw_0-iqt5PXlPv_EzVvtWUV1Ce7zTNac63Q-CcHxtN_TndFEOq9tz46jw2Y6RqVRyBfaHQPGTQJv8Vplm0jLnAXnhjiJo2OSGL2g-U8JTkrYcEyq4Hfa2wE5k5QCM4z7w-lW-sHvOP0Bz1rZc/s320/20230724_072619.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsUa2EBGg-eATrcs1lgg0CoEsA9jb4cC9UidCJbnMXgggUWOonbVdMBAYUEmIYwhxTSvCohrffRnyt7vlykiv7U7IEFFlS_zU8z-7nXnoAgRj9NsenQjvp0_aDhtPf9gWyBlDty0SVs_hc0p7da6ZZzok_jPyVSpP2jP68gPZ_sPXZ3D0enWp6vS7HvA/s1209/20230724_072625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhsUa2EBGg-eATrcs1lgg0CoEsA9jb4cC9UidCJbnMXgggUWOonbVdMBAYUEmIYwhxTSvCohrffRnyt7vlykiv7U7IEFFlS_zU8z-7nXnoAgRj9NsenQjvp0_aDhtPf9gWyBlDty0SVs_hc0p7da6ZZzok_jPyVSpP2jP68gPZ_sPXZ3D0enWp6vS7HvA/s320/20230724_072625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguy1z7w40Urh0miBuon62kkTtH-OTF3_2ioLCOEB-2FE95WVz0p6lmlDWgiW1KWD5DdYajbdFyZHTuc79V1rWWL6Da-x6zDmUFE8dcotvVsj3wgoLNnyOPki4tGKSVoEDzvkVk-AgizMYLRUc3clmseds8rWz6nNlKphsmlhKGklEcKJTDwMqaPjWSXOo/s1136/20230724_072642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="1136" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguy1z7w40Urh0miBuon62kkTtH-OTF3_2ioLCOEB-2FE95WVz0p6lmlDWgiW1KWD5DdYajbdFyZHTuc79V1rWWL6Da-x6zDmUFE8dcotvVsj3wgoLNnyOPki4tGKSVoEDzvkVk-AgizMYLRUc3clmseds8rWz6nNlKphsmlhKGklEcKJTDwMqaPjWSXOo/s320/20230724_072642.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Facciamo colazione sul balcone, con lo sguardo perso all'orizzonte che sfuma acqua e cielo in un azzurro rosato. Poi viene il momento di lasciare questo paradiso terrestre. Salutiamo il padrone, un anziano inglese bruciato dal sole e dall'hashish, tutto ingobbito, con un paio di occhialoni tondi e spessi e solo un costume da bagno tutto strappato che fa più che intravedere un paio di chiappette grinze. Salutiamo il suo gatto, che zampetta nella sabbia. Salutiamo anche la coppia di lelle nudiste, una con lunghissime treccine e tanti tatuaggi, l'altra con i capelli corti corti e la pelle chiarissima, che stanno caricando i bagagli sulle moto giganti rispetto a loro. Ora vanno a nord, a sbrigare pratiche di permessi di soggiorno e visti, ma poi vireranno a sud fino in Patagonia. Che tipe wild! Gigi, mentre parliamo con loro, è abbastanza in imbarazzo e, secondo me, la cosa le fa ridere. Arrivederci Zipolite! Siamo pronti a lasciarti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieobLmU17xlTwsp4u824-skdcb5dsVRIN28_72kkdjH-LekzI-5SoGgnJ-39ldzYOPSwUA81u7p027P2VI6d9A_-Gq3386WQ8lK84iidbKC3Nk6f2nPT2ig9IMm4grJkZ5M48firTd5FcjX6eljM8KSwwrmZ-ncR2IQjsCU6Tja3jThRwkHsjodsik32M/s1209/20230724_080436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieobLmU17xlTwsp4u824-skdcb5dsVRIN28_72kkdjH-LekzI-5SoGgnJ-39ldzYOPSwUA81u7p027P2VI6d9A_-Gq3386WQ8lK84iidbKC3Nk6f2nPT2ig9IMm4grJkZ5M48firTd5FcjX6eljM8KSwwrmZ-ncR2IQjsCU6Tja3jThRwkHsjodsik32M/s320/20230724_080436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I primi kilometri di strada corrono bassi lungo la costa, ma non in piano. Assolutamente non in piano. Ogni baia è separata dalle altre da una collina. Per raggiungere San Agustinillo, prima, e Mazunte, poi, dobbiamo arrampicarci su stradine tortuose e ripide, spesso invase dalla sabbia. Il paesaggio intorno è da cartolina, però. Palme, palapas, casette, spiagge lambite dalla spuma delle onde.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz0ZOKPG9D-YgkAjaYbRSIdl1pKK8nFcwba513A0t-fwCnbYrv34wwlIotMp57aDnF9fUBLUul_qshFhAWEvensweWCpwQ2YWDe3mJYP09qYUyv8KGIrD3ENzEcpmrj7DNgh43n3Puv0Vj_5MVId6I_D0qV4OxHSeykVUZZD3Q4FSPikr4gOEXnk2hisg/s1209/20230724_081640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz0ZOKPG9D-YgkAjaYbRSIdl1pKK8nFcwba513A0t-fwCnbYrv34wwlIotMp57aDnF9fUBLUul_qshFhAWEvensweWCpwQ2YWDe3mJYP09qYUyv8KGIrD3ENzEcpmrj7DNgh43n3Puv0Vj_5MVId6I_D0qV4OxHSeykVUZZD3Q4FSPikr4gOEXnk2hisg/s320/20230724_081640.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr6Gj5qRRn5gm_WEyk3-crywwX5xm3p7PvEXolkl_Rz5fQiveVziQXN_4k4ZR5A9qhe4-Yo4g-r-k0LHifHiUlTV7i2_WojWuRbP_l0hHFM7ynHaA_iEdtNAWgg5OpOjJNiQ-ONtSbGKLNw55uL1KNUm2EHNjv9bQdhIWU-crLqLMF-QDFDQiiaC1L7o/s1209/20230724_081745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr6Gj5qRRn5gm_WEyk3-crywwX5xm3p7PvEXolkl_Rz5fQiveVziQXN_4k4ZR5A9qhe4-Yo4g-r-k0LHifHiUlTV7i2_WojWuRbP_l0hHFM7ynHaA_iEdtNAWgg5OpOjJNiQ-ONtSbGKLNw55uL1KNUm2EHNjv9bQdhIWU-crLqLMF-QDFDQiiaC1L7o/s320/20230724_081745.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_fKRzflGSikL6jBKEw0a0MDoohOmdJsJ58p5XVcZThMpEdsN-XyGMAXFlYNVjNz0xV09PWqtaNVs9pgEoFJ-TuMsmMzvphMyoC4yaBGmwlSNyG6Qhgpz1-eAUWPGUbi46jl-g0PqRUAirpTx0q1aHGhVCOJ4ow_BBgosg5N8LRA76tIA6o1TS9EBn-A/s1209/20230724_082051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_fKRzflGSikL6jBKEw0a0MDoohOmdJsJ58p5XVcZThMpEdsN-XyGMAXFlYNVjNz0xV09PWqtaNVs9pgEoFJ-TuMsmMzvphMyoC4yaBGmwlSNyG6Qhgpz1-eAUWPGUbi46jl-g0PqRUAirpTx0q1aHGhVCOJ4ow_BBgosg5N8LRA76tIA6o1TS9EBn-A/s320/20230724_082051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUloSRAQ4iSj69IQyHFPzdjZXpr56is3VPX-_MvBfxYEwBXL4CleGBW0tWjGMZ9acotuh0oank32d-dfqBtrjmamBQYmvnk7S_c06_neJI8q3GKWsA6lcjkrgGFH5PHz0SY7LOE_gNrFV0t_crrdleNQfUTelbkXk8ylgHHOaVImR0NlqUABqV5Js07KQ/s1209/20230724_082055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUloSRAQ4iSj69IQyHFPzdjZXpr56is3VPX-_MvBfxYEwBXL4CleGBW0tWjGMZ9acotuh0oank32d-dfqBtrjmamBQYmvnk7S_c06_neJI8q3GKWsA6lcjkrgGFH5PHz0SY7LOE_gNrFV0t_crrdleNQfUTelbkXk8ylgHHOaVImR0NlqUABqV5Js07KQ/s320/20230724_082055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRligs33SsHTbnQZQI9jM5-8ocH1E3bgxtFO0N6d4HSxoTqNlfn9oiC1UVByhmNY5fqL1FeYR6ShB3_-svgbE7d-uqRTMRlfGVJ06AH_qOuLgKIu4pWr7zOxSvxv0iqJE6B0-KP2hY0EA2RmjJHKmmUM0I3PE0e8lbG3NvbqkZITzZd6st_ml6O3BDOHw/s1209/20230724_082613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRligs33SsHTbnQZQI9jM5-8ocH1E3bgxtFO0N6d4HSxoTqNlfn9oiC1UVByhmNY5fqL1FeYR6ShB3_-svgbE7d-uqRTMRlfGVJ06AH_qOuLgKIu4pWr7zOxSvxv0iqJE6B0-KP2hY0EA2RmjJHKmmUM0I3PE0e8lbG3NvbqkZITzZd6st_ml6O3BDOHw/s320/20230724_082613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>San Agustinillo è un pueblo microscopico, che si sviluppa tutto lungo la strada che lo attraversa. Il resto è spiaggia di sabbia finissima.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWhBUHLau4UsMNKfPbMxrCLOKKuRetfioD9YEVM2mUrEs05i0OYwbBPSrn-6h-aVQ8fcX2ns1XN10ZFG9f7NDAHozGR6bifouT9AiF_t2S5_csrj3F10ToXbSY-Qx9BcJvrE9l91cD82SnOx_xfDLF7W5YP4_IzAovcF0qfIo8usMXJlmaK7bibAERlEs/s1209/20230724_083331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWhBUHLau4UsMNKfPbMxrCLOKKuRetfioD9YEVM2mUrEs05i0OYwbBPSrn-6h-aVQ8fcX2ns1XN10ZFG9f7NDAHozGR6bifouT9AiF_t2S5_csrj3F10ToXbSY-Qx9BcJvrE9l91cD82SnOx_xfDLF7W5YP4_IzAovcF0qfIo8usMXJlmaK7bibAERlEs/s320/20230724_083331.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_U7MqsU_6rX7XM_jxLZGgp7qS7z-4D7Tk7y0IIw7n7bKGAAHzbjQ2BDyu5AHd5Vxbo-XMqTl-riyeOGwywSzF0hnK6yhD51sLsFw7s2QwusyRWeSPJw5u9lpKyzLMfEQdn3chTMEoNpIEYJxr43z_yywvOVpY_IfugJ-1Yi6BvQoLD7llH59NSIA-MzM/s1209/20230724_083443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_U7MqsU_6rX7XM_jxLZGgp7qS7z-4D7Tk7y0IIw7n7bKGAAHzbjQ2BDyu5AHd5Vxbo-XMqTl-riyeOGwywSzF0hnK6yhD51sLsFw7s2QwusyRWeSPJw5u9lpKyzLMfEQdn3chTMEoNpIEYJxr43z_yywvOVpY_IfugJ-1Yi6BvQoLD7llH59NSIA-MzM/s320/20230724_083443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAO_6lLKSFmkhF60MvnO8RP1WiaUOFIE_kagDF8DAwhlDaBIYT7u0mD5u8wxEjtgleiTcuJixrzyu9B0HpIDw5EK1kpaD2y_UT62ioT8KKBk4jJdHTPTTi_WyGhvOBWgKS_8ca9_v8e5IbFa58ASN2wDDqzSgRzrWG3NYKQbagz6YS0u8rVFnq2CU7q6g/s1209/20230724_083452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAO_6lLKSFmkhF60MvnO8RP1WiaUOFIE_kagDF8DAwhlDaBIYT7u0mD5u8wxEjtgleiTcuJixrzyu9B0HpIDw5EK1kpaD2y_UT62ioT8KKBk4jJdHTPTTi_WyGhvOBWgKS_8ca9_v8e5IbFa58ASN2wDDqzSgRzrWG3NYKQbagz6YS0u8rVFnq2CU7q6g/s320/20230724_083452.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhWUpKvn9xeprU0tB9uQnvZVnu-6wbOaNSJVnmr7vP1Oyp0P5ME90F3lkWSDpLTOOujWpjBis4c6ayWWGeFoS7oH-i_tw4QlkojQASa0V2Yxe0K-r7_fAAtyvrkLbk2HTX5QofO4KfBP55I5UWmtbNd4skn6glPL05_ytwqTfwQ4EMjTjCcIyDejM7z4/s1209/20230724_084024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhWUpKvn9xeprU0tB9uQnvZVnu-6wbOaNSJVnmr7vP1Oyp0P5ME90F3lkWSDpLTOOujWpjBis4c6ayWWGeFoS7oH-i_tw4QlkojQASa0V2Yxe0K-r7_fAAtyvrkLbk2HTX5QofO4KfBP55I5UWmtbNd4skn6glPL05_ytwqTfwQ4EMjTjCcIyDejM7z4/s320/20230724_084024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Una salitella mortale dopo l'altra, e per fortuna non c'è traffico, ci arrampichiamo e ridiscendiamo fino a Mazunte, una sorta di capitale di questo tratto di costa, nonchè pueblo magico. E' un mix curioso tra surfisti, tatuatori, sale di yoga, veggenti che leggono il futuro nei tarocchi, maglie di Che Guevara e viaggiatori indipendenti più o meno di passaggio. Come noi, insomma. Non ci fermiamo a visitare il centro delle tartarughe, perchè Playa Escobilla ci aspetta, e lì sì che avremo a che fare con questi meravigliosi animali, senza che siano tenuti in cattività, anzi! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitecAjuyJXecZxSyVJuMQeCjTkWU0HWTtOH6HLgWXEZYlOBdEGuFquQxjtSne2HBBUQCuUUHujSmwKT_7e2gbf85ombPh5DEUhkWvHw27RkCklHFh3gUMMLES9YAPqCPILc_glDA6QXF3dGWwnAloj2X8CpAfVCVHsK9ojTDHzL6pgaFaYlQyW_CvvGxc/s1209/20230724_084800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitecAjuyJXecZxSyVJuMQeCjTkWU0HWTtOH6HLgWXEZYlOBdEGuFquQxjtSne2HBBUQCuUUHujSmwKT_7e2gbf85ombPh5DEUhkWvHw27RkCklHFh3gUMMLES9YAPqCPILc_glDA6QXF3dGWwnAloj2X8CpAfVCVHsK9ojTDHzL6pgaFaYlQyW_CvvGxc/s320/20230724_084800.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finita la strada costiera, tocca issarci nuovamente sulla statale che abbiamo lasciato ieri, che corre più nell'entroterra e, nemmeno a dirlo, più in alto. Prima di lasciare Zipolite una signora, vedendoci femi davanti alla porta di una palestra, ci ha chiesto se stessimo aspettando che aprisse. Mi è venuto da ridere all'idea di fare altra fatica, e le ho risposto che no, stavamo andando a Puerto Escondido. Lei, a questo punto, si è aperta in un largo sorriso e ha esclamato: "Oh, bene! Poche salite, allora!".</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Fino a qui penso che ci abbia coglionati. Ma, recuperata la stradona, devo darle ragione. Rispetto ai giorni scorsi qui non ci sono le colline malefiche e, pur nel continuo saliscendi, le pendenze sono pedalabili e non mortali. Passiamo qualche villaggio un po' polveroso di pollame e anime, ma tiriamo dritti. Abbiamo un appuntamento con la guida delle tortuguitas!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_jTHrjvQTKv5JhEuejnVXar5Zd7VlSjKfIJd3VEmjOTLESXDjoETRgbTXHVlGIsdkA-Lgy3EoObaZ_PKv03zywkxEt5WlyHeSN0_QmCbN9cv1AuzeuqvQOHyrDJvTgwuWgPSI5iHlc3OhmPwT1B7mWR24e8l3fd93rZwLXBoaedEEjLa-_qQ7nGrsTg/s1209/20230724_094353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_jTHrjvQTKv5JhEuejnVXar5Zd7VlSjKfIJd3VEmjOTLESXDjoETRgbTXHVlGIsdkA-Lgy3EoObaZ_PKv03zywkxEt5WlyHeSN0_QmCbN9cv1AuzeuqvQOHyrDJvTgwuWgPSI5iHlc3OhmPwT1B7mWR24e8l3fd93rZwLXBoaedEEjLa-_qQ7nGrsTg/s320/20230724_094353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvsZayK-UU9WUTew_OKK6yinvlw4hPu5K8oQVWNIZwYTQyyffNRBebmm6Y0FOobY4BmwRylffRnRNmyk5scQDFvrtpNY-hyIvY54BW3ju2VuJn8MvsoWVF6Div3xsyNzh8G7YIKpjP7yxd6luDDsUxjvSJEN28VXt1kQneFwmSxqhyxNGqDU5dBc_Cca4/s1209/20230724_094356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvsZayK-UU9WUTew_OKK6yinvlw4hPu5K8oQVWNIZwYTQyyffNRBebmm6Y0FOobY4BmwRylffRnRNmyk5scQDFvrtpNY-hyIvY54BW3ju2VuJn8MvsoWVF6Div3xsyNzh8G7YIKpjP7yxd6luDDsUxjvSJEN28VXt1kQneFwmSxqhyxNGqDU5dBc_Cca4/s320/20230724_094356.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Eccoci, finalmente, e con un'intera ora di anticipo! Roba inconcepibile per un messicano. Infatti cogliamo tutti di sorpresa. E dire che ieri via Whatsapp mi sono intesa bene con il centro informazioni! Poco male, comunque. Veniamo accolti da due signore larghe quanto il loro sorriso, in abiti tradizionali, e da un omone baffuto, scuro di carnagione ma con gli occhi azzurri. Jorge, si presenta. "Sono la vostra guida, ora vi spiego chi siamo e cosa facciamo qui, e cosa farete voi". Ci fa accomodare nel centro informazioni, che è una stanzona dal tetto in foglie tutta piena di poster relativi alle tartarughe. "Questa è una delle principali zone di nidificazione della tartaruga olivastra (tortuga golfina). Ogni anno ne arrivano fino a un milione a deporre le loro uova. Tra maggio e febbraio, di notte, quando c'è luna piena, arrivano, anche mille ogni ora. Questo fenomeno è chiamato arribada. Noi proteggiamo le uova, tenendo la spiaggia chiusa al pubblico e portando le uova in uno spazio protetto. Non dagli animali, dagli esseri umani. Siamo persone del posto, e facciamo tutto questo come volontariato. Per questo chiediamo una donazione a chi ci fa visita". Paghiamo, e volentieri, i 10 euro a testa che costa l'accesso a Playa Escobilla. Poi si va. A piedi? Con un transfer? No! In bici! Perchè siamo arrivati presto e non si sono organizzati con l'auto... Ma tanto abbiamo le nostre bici, no? E quindi lasciamo giù i bagagli e percorriamo i 2km che ci separano dal santuario. Qualche metro di stradone e il resto uno sterrato di pura sabbia impedalabile. Per noi. Perchè Jorge, con la sua mountain bike scassatissima, arrugginita, su cui calca in infradito, ha una guida formidabile e ci fa sentire delle cacchine molli. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvArbk1p5BfpP26CD-3gs_uTZA0fno4IFaeyvueTKCjzuqeQ3QCo3LHA4QWXEGid_NcAL_-5Amf2MSD5pJt8ACQPB6eLRhbanHJvPtzIirL7oNGdA-8T0ZXcOLzAX9jk0uFT0nhGJ0sufFmoBFe25Mw6D8fIgJLQmJoe4XPID0zEIXuKoNrgEapsVTbw/s1209/20230724_103757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvArbk1p5BfpP26CD-3gs_uTZA0fno4IFaeyvueTKCjzuqeQ3QCo3LHA4QWXEGid_NcAL_-5Amf2MSD5pJt8ACQPB6eLRhbanHJvPtzIirL7oNGdA-8T0ZXcOLzAX9jk0uFT0nhGJ0sufFmoBFe25Mw6D8fIgJLQmJoe4XPID0zEIXuKoNrgEapsVTbw/s320/20230724_103757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRP5gHoGXI6tUsE5XotTm7x5v_FEMF6sfJ3C-ZU_PbfKnJ1p-DULnRydXGA6HG3Sd-zx-QPH2RMGjgj2lSlYQtQ-q62p7VoVFv4wYs-KTLK3wZXupoiX5bBgprXzZ_MTWzmO--2HHsX8dsikPOEEvQVx27oaot5EPZEOqi8e2n627bgKn2ECEEdQjHRbM/s1209/20230724_103802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRP5gHoGXI6tUsE5XotTm7x5v_FEMF6sfJ3C-ZU_PbfKnJ1p-DULnRydXGA6HG3Sd-zx-QPH2RMGjgj2lSlYQtQ-q62p7VoVFv4wYs-KTLK3wZXupoiX5bBgprXzZ_MTWzmO--2HHsX8dsikPOEEvQVx27oaot5EPZEOqi8e2n627bgKn2ECEEdQjHRbM/s320/20230724_103802.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHjd2M6emMtw1eAWPWVTpp3PSxWz1Rzmuph9B9oFlGianYLcEvyP0cUesN89JPSzKIj87CzfJ-wRI9dnIKQOEA13f4VJcbIlWcRip8gHeGizt3SN4UqcZBbl5O2zSM7ApfcFZFFNb4n_N6592-QBaurFRbAAsNh0Legy1bN5cUUOOvAEkAGCrtkSN3W5o/s1209/20230724_104735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHjd2M6emMtw1eAWPWVTpp3PSxWz1Rzmuph9B9oFlGianYLcEvyP0cUesN89JPSzKIj87CzfJ-wRI9dnIKQOEA13f4VJcbIlWcRip8gHeGizt3SN4UqcZBbl5O2zSM7ApfcFZFFNb4n_N6592-QBaurFRbAAsNh0Legy1bN5cUUOOvAEkAGCrtkSN3W5o/s320/20230724_104735.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jorge</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Arrivati in spiaggia veniamo accolti da un'altra guida, che si occupa fisicamente del trasferimento delle uova dal nido originario a quello protetto sotto a un gazebo di rete fina. Ogni nidiata è segnalata con un cartellino che riporta data e specie. Intorno, ovunque, minacciosi avvoltoio, gabbiani, cormorani e altri uccelli marini pronti a papparsi i tartarughini che cercano di raggiungere l'oceano, lenti, goffi, ben visibili, neri come sono sulla sabbia chiara.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbz2BLE8NN0nWlkeHi5cgdZzoNu6Ud6-0eAhxqmdKt6g3PnoBiovNSLvlpx3mWKrXBlPRmNuVkR0wldN9FWTf0UcwDjLn6i8LsrSzMqcXokbzV6QXcbV3nFpg3qRC49PqwtzM5osiSCQ_imCiSmA0C6oyIVSB4tyUDvV-ucvopOFKPwcoKiApQN6N9kxQ/s1209/20230724_105519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbz2BLE8NN0nWlkeHi5cgdZzoNu6Ud6-0eAhxqmdKt6g3PnoBiovNSLvlpx3mWKrXBlPRmNuVkR0wldN9FWTf0UcwDjLn6i8LsrSzMqcXokbzV6QXcbV3nFpg3qRC49PqwtzM5osiSCQ_imCiSmA0C6oyIVSB4tyUDvV-ucvopOFKPwcoKiApQN6N9kxQ/s320/20230724_105519.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNsden6Nu1uGkxEMmOoC8gS1sw3hFB6r3Lh-cW6CXM7DuEJSCOvVbqNHXRf52Q9uQPKbVQvwjbxQGyGYxQpWlc8lW28H29RmpxEpQ7yunSR30LO1RC9eqnOapIecVQLcDyCr-2t9UStrk4t9u8QNOKk0kuy9IQ25aKDrYFgE81KbPrZfDTPDlm-5agvuY/s1209/20230724_105524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNsden6Nu1uGkxEMmOoC8gS1sw3hFB6r3Lh-cW6CXM7DuEJSCOvVbqNHXRf52Q9uQPKbVQvwjbxQGyGYxQpWlc8lW28H29RmpxEpQ7yunSR30LO1RC9eqnOapIecVQLcDyCr-2t9UStrk4t9u8QNOKk0kuy9IQ25aKDrYFgE81KbPrZfDTPDlm-5agvuY/s320/20230724_105524.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Mentre Jorge ci spiega che la tartarughe sono mamme un po' sui generis, perchè depongono e poi se ne vanno, lasciando che il calore della sabbia "covi" per loro, e, in sintesi, sbattendosene assai delle sorti della prole (come certi genitori che ho conosciuto insegnando... Ahem...), il suo compare entra nella serra delle uova con una insalatiera. Quando esce ce la caccia in mano. E' piena di cuccioli di golfina! Sono bellissimi! E annaspano agitando le pinne: sono pronti per raggiungere il mare.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiho5nmLrluM0BZ9BcRbGVB8tCXUq43mE78gm_4iWRT2UU05jEwjNZtM6Wq2G3HfTKqEsGBdkjhuu0zZzOoNGFecUrTEXo1yG7AlHk5MBHGkQE7Z1OyjMnki_FbRu3cNGYPfc1x4cxudgEaeJk9TAMjCOmTM8Sga12ljaVoOaGIhxSGR1wQxR_vcQ65SjI/s1209/20230724_105904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiho5nmLrluM0BZ9BcRbGVB8tCXUq43mE78gm_4iWRT2UU05jEwjNZtM6Wq2G3HfTKqEsGBdkjhuu0zZzOoNGFecUrTEXo1yG7AlHk5MBHGkQE7Z1OyjMnki_FbRu3cNGYPfc1x4cxudgEaeJk9TAMjCOmTM8Sga12ljaVoOaGIhxSGR1wQxR_vcQ65SjI/s320/20230724_105904.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZ-3hBqXur42VWV90-bQbwZPk8HWuYp9PwPz00zB5fZ-6x5xPh5hUPjMR-uJBl9jFyVKib4cYktRZJ0oTd1sj8Wb1q4vamyf7CgA-ivEeizRB9YU-2GUqiyiYfqWEr3tcdYuk1GMpXZS4MVJD8p8tpDYm-WDt-5vyeknLCpHrzE7AX4mSA6ICf0ZA-Kc/s1209/20230724_105934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZ-3hBqXur42VWV90-bQbwZPk8HWuYp9PwPz00zB5fZ-6x5xPh5hUPjMR-uJBl9jFyVKib4cYktRZJ0oTd1sj8Wb1q4vamyf7CgA-ivEeizRB9YU-2GUqiyiYfqWEr3tcdYuk1GMpXZS4MVJD8p8tpDYm-WDt-5vyeknLCpHrzE7AX4mSA6ICf0ZA-Kc/s320/20230724_105934.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioGMk0-TfysyI4r1lqRMSD6yjnqJhH1Q7zACZJSZPCQc9slhbai2coKhOg2LQqcJmDDtEJF2pXUrlQArYSf9-kNrMIeivvJKZN_vQVscXEUGjXpdydzc9nhHplmHTVLI9gYdGacPOUBlhBXj0zago8TRtzyPA2ce-VwKS6F4A6IDfTWZYlyfM6AgaJ8jo/s1209/20230724_110123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioGMk0-TfysyI4r1lqRMSD6yjnqJhH1Q7zACZJSZPCQc9slhbai2coKhOg2LQqcJmDDtEJF2pXUrlQArYSf9-kNrMIeivvJKZN_vQVscXEUGjXpdydzc9nhHplmHTVLI9gYdGacPOUBlhBXj0zago8TRtzyPA2ce-VwKS6F4A6IDfTWZYlyfM6AgaJ8jo/s320/20230724_110123.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Due foto e siamo pronti a rilasciarle, nel punto che la guida ci indica. Le facciamo scivolare sulla sabbia e loro, guidate dall'istinto antico che detta la morale, iniziano a trascinarsi verso la battigia. Una dopo l'altra, quasi in fila indiana. E' un momento incredibilmente emozionante. Forza tartine! Siete così piccole, di fronte all'oceano così sconfinato e pieno di insidie. Forza! Sono istanti di gioia, di tensione (perchè subito i gabbiani si alzano in volo e puntano alle prede). Fortemente simbolici. Sono una metafora, queste tartarughine. Qualcuna ce la farà, altre no. Qualcuna sembra che si attardi e invece poi arriva sana e salva alle onde. Tutte sono costrette per natura a lottare, ad affrontare la spiaggia che, in confronto a loro, è vasta come l'universo. Tutti se le vogliono pappare in un solo boccone. E anche il Pacifico è una grande incognita, che porta vita e morte. Siamo e siamo stati tutti quelle tartarughine indifese ma fortissime. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ8_kT-GiLKlsbDTESlEMDRLm4kg2hmrzCjVzCQ27cK04EnOPP2VCXbwuZoHg9N1Woz22iYULaPBpyX5hCjtwna8UVA5g2AatIHNd9RSajzr0I8G39j-e0rz9BGE5Pt0aroTfZyRdVSOt1sbYeKOQFPciRxMwgpnm6LfSfYpdBObgdNRtkkyEcaVgT_z8/s1175/20230724_110256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1175" data-original-width="881" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ8_kT-GiLKlsbDTESlEMDRLm4kg2hmrzCjVzCQ27cK04EnOPP2VCXbwuZoHg9N1Woz22iYULaPBpyX5hCjtwna8UVA5g2AatIHNd9RSajzr0I8G39j-e0rz9BGE5Pt0aroTfZyRdVSOt1sbYeKOQFPciRxMwgpnm6LfSfYpdBObgdNRtkkyEcaVgT_z8/s320/20230724_110256.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQoyS1WrS7MC8g8GcQ2OiQxmOpABmPo7ez52dERYgaOETdO3OuW-bwhF_mmY4yjo90IEQ1eXeLeZCDfC6lmfqTG_EURtXElBaCK_13B2OTfLCIpXVyC5KGbFkBpfaf3jrgu5K3uqu-rCfBzBaE4V3R9W1cfIBokF1YgkNQ6lHd8MpA31rsxwt5dzI8jiU/s1209/20230724_110343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQoyS1WrS7MC8g8GcQ2OiQxmOpABmPo7ez52dERYgaOETdO3OuW-bwhF_mmY4yjo90IEQ1eXeLeZCDfC6lmfqTG_EURtXElBaCK_13B2OTfLCIpXVyC5KGbFkBpfaf3jrgu5K3uqu-rCfBzBaE4V3R9W1cfIBokF1YgkNQ6lHd8MpA31rsxwt5dzI8jiU/s320/20230724_110343.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>E magari ci fosse sempre un Jorge che tira legnate ai gabbiani, per rendere più sicuro il cammino, quando ancora non si hanno gli strumenti per difendersi! Magari siamo anche noi docenti degli Jorge. A me piacerebbe.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8SZ6je2bVrBCetZwvI1dx2qGwhKHoR46lmksvYN_KWI9cMFJ5Q1vCl5-YJ6T5Ikivy9LI-bTSrwF8v_QqETY0dI8Ut0jIeSd9dn7iJQRL6Xb6-Hlib8if62Hh-Rpjqjm3m2AqvAyZX61lvz07fOiChZ1SkUH45ezCqKkYw4qgdVmAG2sWHmFKbcLZpc/s1209/20230724_110436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8SZ6je2bVrBCetZwvI1dx2qGwhKHoR46lmksvYN_KWI9cMFJ5Q1vCl5-YJ6T5Ikivy9LI-bTSrwF8v_QqETY0dI8Ut0jIeSd9dn7iJQRL6Xb6-Hlib8if62Hh-Rpjqjm3m2AqvAyZX61lvz07fOiChZ1SkUH45ezCqKkYw4qgdVmAG2sWHmFKbcLZpc/s320/20230724_110436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjciyYLKFr7j6y2_d1yrzpCaTtBjEyOuupADnqJC4I1pZcp0fpTFP91kV6ftdcOO6_zTVtOo3aZWg0sChQQOLof2zFrJt3jW8PiBxjVJQ8TMc2xLPO6Z4tPwPB3kVJ8Jpk_dWtBr9pFtbDGqveiDFVAHdqRZmWltiVYx1j7mhKjQIuWtLMJj05fx4lz4Fk/s1209/20230724_110843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjciyYLKFr7j6y2_d1yrzpCaTtBjEyOuupADnqJC4I1pZcp0fpTFP91kV6ftdcOO6_zTVtOo3aZWg0sChQQOLof2zFrJt3jW8PiBxjVJQ8TMc2xLPO6Z4tPwPB3kVJ8Jpk_dWtBr9pFtbDGqveiDFVAHdqRZmWltiVYx1j7mhKjQIuWtLMJj05fx4lz4Fk/s320/20230724_110843.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'ultima. Lei ha il PDP con i tempi di consegna più lunghi. Ma anche lei arriva salva alle onde!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Quando tutte le tartolille sono sparite tra la spuma dei marosi, viene il momento di lasciare questo luogo magico, dove la sabbia è fatta anche di gusci di uova di golfina. E gli uccellacci, porelli pure loro che han fame, presidiano ogni metro di sabbia.</div><div>Torniamo al centro, anche se, prima, Gigi si premura di cadere con la bici nella sabbia, per fortuna senza farsi male. In Islanda era la sua specialità olimpica. Un giorno ha registrato 7 cadute consecutive in 7 pozze di sabbia, nelle quali si arenava da quasi fermo, cadendo di lato a peso morto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuXHywkVcLFpCQY3kLfslsOwvB45okHWCiCXS2X1rtD6JOVtI9Fy5zgkk8JAeCMFWI82l7NMj1T0Xno6zakG1JHtQtTiy1aw9NE19blbnriL23mOK-LtdMJZCEgFqGg7Te-vc40OFelFrqFe-fQv6OqnreHA72norlxclScTQQAhoBeNfw8RyGR25c9z0/s1209/20230724_111319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuXHywkVcLFpCQY3kLfslsOwvB45okHWCiCXS2X1rtD6JOVtI9Fy5zgkk8JAeCMFWI82l7NMj1T0Xno6zakG1JHtQtTiy1aw9NE19blbnriL23mOK-LtdMJZCEgFqGg7Te-vc40OFelFrqFe-fQv6OqnreHA72norlxclScTQQAhoBeNfw8RyGR25c9z0/s320/20230724_111319.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0QQWnkCo2MVzki5rBc-LACeRVfqboK7wypcSD16Aumroup5uE06WGAwGJ_43qn2UZW6Cgczt6X1TnNmKS85Spjb1SK5lKQPsMy-2Rouh2etCsMEG-LSiFxDenh0mNpNox-KNmOFebSGRkIx-Y8Wj4FQOfSAq_kK3HKFKkK8QQv2tU1OYyIqhZKCoXu4/s1209/20230724_111425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0QQWnkCo2MVzki5rBc-LACeRVfqboK7wypcSD16Aumroup5uE06WGAwGJ_43qn2UZW6Cgczt6X1TnNmKS85Spjb1SK5lKQPsMy-2Rouh2etCsMEG-LSiFxDenh0mNpNox-KNmOFebSGRkIx-Y8Wj4FQOfSAq_kK3HKFKkK8QQv2tU1OYyIqhZKCoXu4/s320/20230724_111425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wl1Y7nOvs3igYHF-5AgE83Z_mFqpj73OOBwY8vaJ9Ebz7nom_V07qbBOowEX7t72KqEJScb3hJdql4jnjR5_g1_GIq-VyK6shIuZQjLyJokaEfJypDRAoSbPrhqo2HJIqnnCA31IKD5_3DJgvcgooLn8PgU3d1DW_bvUjo7OHdhhx9bbmEejD3NBQ3w/s1209/20230724_112319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wl1Y7nOvs3igYHF-5AgE83Z_mFqpj73OOBwY8vaJ9Ebz7nom_V07qbBOowEX7t72KqEJScb3hJdql4jnjR5_g1_GIq-VyK6shIuZQjLyJokaEfJypDRAoSbPrhqo2HJIqnnCA31IKD5_3DJgvcgooLn8PgU3d1DW_bvUjo7OHdhhx9bbmEejD3NBQ3w/s320/20230724_112319.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzHcMHu6HF5hA2BCLQBb30UFf_KZpYoaYRhUU03PdvkOoS0-WU752IAco_I1NyjbdfLd9rcGz3YuVzoWCJqppI2w_J5v-uon5RC-iRS_SQ6cgWuxMezCp-4sh-YrojiiFVYeI5MGrpASWeAD0fVccehUwLDPlBKdiGKz1vMJz_JAEZhsC1838uijPD4A/s1209/20230724_113624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzHcMHu6HF5hA2BCLQBb30UFf_KZpYoaYRhUU03PdvkOoS0-WU752IAco_I1NyjbdfLd9rcGz3YuVzoWCJqppI2w_J5v-uon5RC-iRS_SQ6cgWuxMezCp-4sh-YrojiiFVYeI5MGrpASWeAD0fVccehUwLDPlBKdiGKz1vMJz_JAEZhsC1838uijPD4A/s320/20230724_113624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOeHcDdTiKDWhJtih2wnfCNFx39P6nEbn5vYvwRPSvMbCn_3z59DKPl-5qRbmu2YS_Uyl7Dxv4hQ4h2elTY5Zf6lRlZHs1b1wPpFbT82HThwwf4qkxuR5kXHFoyhw6D8iqXhDrhA06OTLeeuCz8chOdnOpkWOkxLnkR4zGpLV9Qtq2_0lgCSS-iuOn3k/s1209/20230724_113636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOeHcDdTiKDWhJtih2wnfCNFx39P6nEbn5vYvwRPSvMbCn_3z59DKPl-5qRbmu2YS_Uyl7Dxv4hQ4h2elTY5Zf6lRlZHs1b1wPpFbT82HThwwf4qkxuR5kXHFoyhw6D8iqXhDrhA06OTLeeuCz8chOdnOpkWOkxLnkR4zGpLV9Qtq2_0lgCSS-iuOn3k/s320/20230724_113636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo questo turbine emotivo che ci ha riempito il cuore, e dopo aver tentato (invano) di sistemare il cambio di Gigi, ripartiamo. Manca poco a Puerto Escondido, la meta di oggi. Lo stradone si fa largo e liscio, punteggiato di paesini cadenti e di umanità logora. Tanti ubriachi, tante persone buttate a terra nella sporcizia. Ma anche scorci di vegetazione tropicale che affaccia all'oceano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOKRsObvjojO2J0UyYIcT2FuVZQlkHjm5zrHoTlnpH1Px_ayk-M9wszYrjF5AWOFfVvCGiXc4gAfs1hcH9khlVAO3qSYsC93jmWODI2lIz23sbynt04IXvM4HsneSmfYSdeUZviwTEYYCIMvN2fNgIIKDHmgtxPDKxeKsRiWrqWBtg2QoZSqTwrR6aHA/s1140/20230724_115049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1140" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOKRsObvjojO2J0UyYIcT2FuVZQlkHjm5zrHoTlnpH1Px_ayk-M9wszYrjF5AWOFfVvCGiXc4gAfs1hcH9khlVAO3qSYsC93jmWODI2lIz23sbynt04IXvM4HsneSmfYSdeUZviwTEYYCIMvN2fNgIIKDHmgtxPDKxeKsRiWrqWBtg2QoZSqTwrR6aHA/s320/20230724_115049.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbvr9Er5PcCAGxQeeiygV6qFTdwKAslhziTSDqgmU9hHJLtiYps8Kvmp7xk4f5Kfo4o91DZdzTZ8V-BWYV8vKlC_lgyDMrE7tLM4k771Y8Ipr6l7Gc8EOecdOAu7pDlsWPON-iUA5j-cK9RrT1Y4oQcWcV8rX9SIB2GLUYTYNP2IOrbabXEknm5nxBLc/s1209/20230724_122838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbvr9Er5PcCAGxQeeiygV6qFTdwKAslhziTSDqgmU9hHJLtiYps8Kvmp7xk4f5Kfo4o91DZdzTZ8V-BWYV8vKlC_lgyDMrE7tLM4k771Y8Ipr6l7Gc8EOecdOAu7pDlsWPON-iUA5j-cK9RrT1Y4oQcWcV8rX9SIB2GLUYTYNP2IOrbabXEknm5nxBLc/s320/20230724_122838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGoFTJEwObLyKKXpM8vhXdQF_xT5Zrhm3IXRJU239GnZav9X0e_eFcXoa0gnId7s9C5HjL2_BwfWxk5fjcEa-0y7PnEADLtt8e0629hvv8jkthr7gN-fX3IchjodLkWSX9vqflWziS5fuEybbLYD4Fjtm4Tekb_dxD4crTBnHFYFaTeFhnldvwjABlSs/s1209/20230724_131441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGoFTJEwObLyKKXpM8vhXdQF_xT5Zrhm3IXRJU239GnZav9X0e_eFcXoa0gnId7s9C5HjL2_BwfWxk5fjcEa-0y7PnEADLtt8e0629hvv8jkthr7gN-fX3IchjodLkWSX9vqflWziS5fuEybbLYD4Fjtm4Tekb_dxD4crTBnHFYFaTeFhnldvwjABlSs/s320/20230724_131441.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrLVGJIpLm-ZrYZE0229zOT78P0KCnBXPcL7i9WAmTQ7yVKm6F7LIV_82xXkFCBurffYQOySYGQHUNftdubKlxAAx0fQvWg5Gz1EH9Ee88De7f12HWgk3U5POrF6oLDjlaSywI4zpYjeE0RKkh4HQ1wmdCB_uijn2-2EjiGGk413VcqRwgIATotu4giqE/s1209/20230724_140706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrLVGJIpLm-ZrYZE0229zOT78P0KCnBXPcL7i9WAmTQ7yVKm6F7LIV_82xXkFCBurffYQOySYGQHUNftdubKlxAAx0fQvWg5Gz1EH9Ee88De7f12HWgk3U5POrF6oLDjlaSywI4zpYjeE0RKkh4HQ1wmdCB_uijn2-2EjiGGk413VcqRwgIATotu4giqE/s320/20230724_140706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlm9s6TZ_eWJliAXKntfhPKThfPb_BdSDyVojjwZuTPQRt43lPhs_V-X6e9pFIFn9WoQTp1I4UggCkdyXs3DWGi0Jghw2Vn_QDxsNAEeE7xvDiZn1zZWCzOMMj1tw3UJN_FA4Ihb6a9AagsUugQ3OYhQIAnc0_4Lps5TM64-hu-UGJe9BQ08nNoFarpTE/s1209/20230724_140750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlm9s6TZ_eWJliAXKntfhPKThfPb_BdSDyVojjwZuTPQRt43lPhs_V-X6e9pFIFn9WoQTp1I4UggCkdyXs3DWGi0Jghw2Vn_QDxsNAEeE7xvDiZn1zZWCzOMMj1tw3UJN_FA4Ihb6a9AagsUugQ3OYhQIAnc0_4Lps5TM64-hu-UGJe9BQ08nNoFarpTE/s320/20230724_140750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYv3y__WMKxXZFUsm2K-1hSOjaT4_dEE0WHaP_G82Lj_TA10rk5sOCgpMEQClAzJAYll_oa6_oZqsNJugAZjopM8CojvB9ofi_me9Z4_EGfEpXZKYNLUc6-2swwfxoDPNlIjm8EoxCifkERrv2GIDMGzCMI9-yQz--fD47WQhV6glMj4gTUenTFsG9Vuw/s1209/20230724_141136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYv3y__WMKxXZFUsm2K-1hSOjaT4_dEE0WHaP_G82Lj_TA10rk5sOCgpMEQClAzJAYll_oa6_oZqsNJugAZjopM8CojvB9ofi_me9Z4_EGfEpXZKYNLUc6-2swwfxoDPNlIjm8EoxCifkERrv2GIDMGzCMI9-yQz--fD47WQhV6glMj4gTUenTFsG9Vuw/s320/20230724_141136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMaVT1bKVwEJBZLhHH_xglibdrER_VK8j02GWHuDgL-h7rA9-xqxLlPB7dgqifzHb-2PEQ8D3wpCkSsUA-iLKt-uiBJ_KNlnMWpRALNx9da9M50b1JShInLeFIC-LdsKbjNU8P1wfBFOZxnlVDjxQSWQ8vB591g7buxdxb4a4d0Au1oynfpXOPxrgER4g/s979/20230724_141149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMaVT1bKVwEJBZLhHH_xglibdrER_VK8j02GWHuDgL-h7rA9-xqxLlPB7dgqifzHb-2PEQ8D3wpCkSsUA-iLKt-uiBJ_KNlnMWpRALNx9da9M50b1JShInLeFIC-LdsKbjNU8P1wfBFOZxnlVDjxQSWQ8vB591g7buxdxb4a4d0Au1oynfpXOPxrgER4g/s320/20230724_141149.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nel giro di un paio d'ore eccoci. Siamo giunti finalmente a Puerto Escondido, nome esotico che ci è frullato in mente per giorni, per mesi. Non siamo surfisti, quindi queste spiagge perfette per chi sfida le onde, per noi, non sono più o meno belle delle altre viste finora. E' ciò che questo luogo evoca ad averci spinti fin qui, prima di lasciare la costa per settimane, e addentrarci, già da domani, tra i monti e l'altiplano. Questo luogo non è stato abitato nè in epoca preispanica nè in epoca coloniale. La leggenda narra che il pirata Andrew Drake, fratello del più famoso Francis, si fosse appartato qui con la sua ciurma per godersi qualche giorno di tranquillità, poichè la baia era del tutto deserta. Sulla nave era tenuta prigioniera una bella mixteca, rapita da Huatulco qualche giorno prima. La donna, mentre la nave era ancorata vicino alla spiaggia, riuscì a tuffarsi e scappare. Si nascose così bene che i pirati, pur cercandola a lungo, non la trovarono più. Ecco la Escondida, o Bahia de la mujer escondida.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJrV8MxJR6bvPR-fVwBZytWPbT0LzZq8_BDDfAOLYT6XZ_MIa5mRxM-TJ6cPXoCpTGuHofuBppP3BtmwqhuAc_G-gySOsLou_meQM37v4BeWjGf8zr1ecVPlOspcknjPTdhcsQhqVbYsI63NukpT-XTTR9N1NFilA6IBzQtYf1E2fltkSnLvroWoWfpk/s1209/20230724_142500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiJrV8MxJR6bvPR-fVwBZytWPbT0LzZq8_BDDfAOLYT6XZ_MIa5mRxM-TJ6cPXoCpTGuHofuBppP3BtmwqhuAc_G-gySOsLou_meQM37v4BeWjGf8zr1ecVPlOspcknjPTdhcsQhqVbYsI63NukpT-XTTR9N1NFilA6IBzQtYf1E2fltkSnLvroWoWfpk/s320/20230724_142500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Fino agli anni '70 qui vivevano una manciata di pescatori e alcuni produttori di caffè e mezcal (che anche ora non mancano). Poi si è trovata qualche falda acquifera, ed è arrivato il turismo, ora pilastro dell'economia della città, che infatti è tutta alberghi, ristoranti, agenzie e bancarelle di cibo e souvenir. Prendiamo possesso della camera d'albergo e, dopo un attimo di svenimento sotto al ventilatore, ci prepariamo a uscire. Voglio fare un tuffo nell'oceano prima di lasciare la costa.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">L'aria è densa di temporali addensati attorno, ma non piove. La gente si gode la spiaggia, il passeggio tranquillo a piedi nudi o sulla pedonale, sorseggiano micheladas o assaporando un ghiaccioli artigianale. L'atmosfera è molto meno rustica di Zipolite, e più "commerciale". Ci sono grandi alberghi con piscina, locali chiassosi, paccottiglia di plastica in vendita ovunque. Ma ci si rilassa eccome anche qui, basta trovare i giusti angolini. Noi ce ne ritagliamo uno nella spiaggia adiacente a quella dove i pescatori tirano in secca le barche. L'acqua è pulita, ma le onde non sono pericolose come nelle altre baie, dove, senza tavola da surf ed esperienza, si rischia di farsi male.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWm979rRHLyfLXSYC9k9E-sbaeK1iSF7hnr_3KZOjTIoZXtrhrpRYxwA1KxLzruIK4PDsw8or6BqfpwsCjyHNc3RrWx7barc5eGkwWNlryic_Z9ZQAw-T3sm9XjWEbJ9cE4e3VaNkKftAlRItZS8LyWuhRaQ38vHMxBwX8hjivv4oxSGJVxq2JZ9gGik/s1209/20230724_170848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWm979rRHLyfLXSYC9k9E-sbaeK1iSF7hnr_3KZOjTIoZXtrhrpRYxwA1KxLzruIK4PDsw8or6BqfpwsCjyHNc3RrWx7barc5eGkwWNlryic_Z9ZQAw-T3sm9XjWEbJ9cE4e3VaNkKftAlRItZS8LyWuhRaQ38vHMxBwX8hjivv4oxSGJVxq2JZ9gGik/s320/20230724_170848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju944rm_XATl8V-cYje1-DaERJnJ3IeqbY_CKMZKXoI6wAaowQP6aXmNV4I3ASP9a7KS5oJJtOz3Iev5PtnXed61HkQyla7WVq51jdP4aRAVGsIxhnNrAlZj4cXMDqHq1hjNcGgiLpc-tZSd4Jn_gAB_oXGENtyM0dj71ayBS0B77z0knP0N8XAL0WcAw/s1209/20230724_170925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju944rm_XATl8V-cYje1-DaERJnJ3IeqbY_CKMZKXoI6wAaowQP6aXmNV4I3ASP9a7KS5oJJtOz3Iev5PtnXed61HkQyla7WVq51jdP4aRAVGsIxhnNrAlZj4cXMDqHq1hjNcGgiLpc-tZSd4Jn_gAB_oXGENtyM0dj71ayBS0B77z0knP0N8XAL0WcAw/s320/20230724_170925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTSjc7zEEkTOr2sMaxsDsF3vMna8ayuUbY-PhPM7P9LJxDTqsAEZPDYZ00pLrEN1-3lcNGTNCvjum6xgyI6RcT02GQLS_ASt0Q47D-KR5O4c3anuEM0dTxmQQxXcqe4WlvK3Qr4NuZnacKlxa7cdLIotg-KZ5SB_-QKmtIcOtsn-ILkOmgzao3_odaeWM/s1209/20230724_170930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTSjc7zEEkTOr2sMaxsDsF3vMna8ayuUbY-PhPM7P9LJxDTqsAEZPDYZ00pLrEN1-3lcNGTNCvjum6xgyI6RcT02GQLS_ASt0Q47D-KR5O4c3anuEM0dTxmQQxXcqe4WlvK3Qr4NuZnacKlxa7cdLIotg-KZ5SB_-QKmtIcOtsn-ILkOmgzao3_odaeWM/s320/20230724_170930.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJlIoJLBToIGS8rGklg0yoNgoFIIObo_Ss_OPBzaT78U9L0poxah59oH0FM1Sm3AlkhMcJFMXZE_MDliUU3VA_iKRxyI207U20r1Q3ZDMaOK0NenngJkRZMozAvFL6r6ksXoBUmyWfYzANnGBFkNsIvm4V1GipQoM1M0K8S_MOWMl7y5FH1qm3V6i36d8/s1209/20230724_171630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJlIoJLBToIGS8rGklg0yoNgoFIIObo_Ss_OPBzaT78U9L0poxah59oH0FM1Sm3AlkhMcJFMXZE_MDliUU3VA_iKRxyI207U20r1Q3ZDMaOK0NenngJkRZMozAvFL6r6ksXoBUmyWfYzANnGBFkNsIvm4V1GipQoM1M0K8S_MOWMl7y5FH1qm3V6i36d8/s320/20230724_171630.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gigi è diffidente persino nel bagnarsi i piedi, e resta ben lontano dal bagnasciuga. Io sono già in acqua a sfidare le onde. Si sta troppo bene in questo oceano che qui è tiepido e gentile.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEb7gJz6r87OVmeGeorAXUVaO1a8cWW9qoRoFKc1oJRco6o6x0tpH-eoZBrLhSWmSGSeTcRNR3xxPxKSHZsSgx8IPjaugmNIS4owYjLEh3oJ_74d9jiWHv8FVuCK9W_RKkyV1MmRvB7X3HdTLsfoBYj15cCKC9zL4Al3ZTDoi4T_eMu1VeBzSRVdB3VV0/s1600/IMG-20230724-WA0013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEb7gJz6r87OVmeGeorAXUVaO1a8cWW9qoRoFKc1oJRco6o6x0tpH-eoZBrLhSWmSGSeTcRNR3xxPxKSHZsSgx8IPjaugmNIS4owYjLEh3oJ_74d9jiWHv8FVuCK9W_RKkyV1MmRvB7X3HdTLsfoBYj15cCKC9zL4Al3ZTDoi4T_eMu1VeBzSRVdB3VV0/s320/IMG-20230724-WA0013.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdY1plu9UnZWJ2l5_XCglsK8_IBrjE52v6FaXvARbdsixtKJ0aXSNi0bf7kbGfUyXR1VQ_jgHkXgs7Pne_Fe4vkXXEO5wSPdaNVaDIaamoUN8b1WQ0QhDhk107qfN-DXgZsBuK023OXEZrOg5BwnnVwtxSXL0TgMLcB09hqwIeeOdRa1xpRthlin33ww/s1600/IMG-20230724-WA0015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdY1plu9UnZWJ2l5_XCglsK8_IBrjE52v6FaXvARbdsixtKJ0aXSNi0bf7kbGfUyXR1VQ_jgHkXgs7Pne_Fe4vkXXEO5wSPdaNVaDIaamoUN8b1WQ0QhDhk107qfN-DXgZsBuK023OXEZrOg5BwnnVwtxSXL0TgMLcB09hqwIeeOdRa1xpRthlin33ww/s320/IMG-20230724-WA0015.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyfPWi0m0pX-KLVeH7gjy6lWhXBurNOoDJtYJAgeXKrRHRevYU0md5WkDqkDs6zc7MTiHygkkQQi4bfqegnfTyyQpslvS1CCXEmd3Kg8ua3eaqDSk212hG3Pq_s1GdI-YRl1EGaX4piK67olTEFWlgDpmx-5OUQBlKEcECATfnV3WR-hUf3tzyhEzbNE/s1209/20230724_175503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyfPWi0m0pX-KLVeH7gjy6lWhXBurNOoDJtYJAgeXKrRHRevYU0md5WkDqkDs6zc7MTiHygkkQQi4bfqegnfTyyQpslvS1CCXEmd3Kg8ua3eaqDSk212hG3Pq_s1GdI-YRl1EGaX4piK67olTEFWlgDpmx-5OUQBlKEcECATfnV3WR-hUf3tzyhEzbNE/s320/20230724_175503.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR8o6mEp0G9beorUE-ZwgEebsV6tmJcikLjuzBZMJMVwFscevGTWemVKsl2jb5HuNo59W67XH5nQvODA44KCfN-fc45n3nIoweM5qoEAOLptMHcAydlT-qCDQOExjSqjJ1wp4r794YxSY69o_BSSVSMVxp1y7trYejyY8ZpuVV3LneNbHYoBeefjzgm2E/s1209/20230724_175527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR8o6mEp0G9beorUE-ZwgEebsV6tmJcikLjuzBZMJMVwFscevGTWemVKsl2jb5HuNo59W67XH5nQvODA44KCfN-fc45n3nIoweM5qoEAOLptMHcAydlT-qCDQOExjSqjJ1wp4r794YxSY69o_BSSVSMVxp1y7trYejyY8ZpuVV3LneNbHYoBeefjzgm2E/s320/20230724_175527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando ne ho abbastanza di onde, andiamo, attraverso il porticciolo, ad esplorare le vie centrali, dove si affollano le bancarelle e i localini.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP5csD1zSKsm_Rfz26-DSFDD_ffPW88UaOSt7CDZ3fNk04oKlack7lC_oPeeN7_MAwP0R6Hc5nWT6f1HoTzGPlFqaxnGDbtj0vXl7lLnY8Zo_GpfOzkRPTiNYe57UEOE-FntzqhtvBR08zB6_q2Sv6fLk3xjithF8_FBm96ZHg-DNS6y-bZPxxMfgjGzY/s1209/20230724_180322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP5csD1zSKsm_Rfz26-DSFDD_ffPW88UaOSt7CDZ3fNk04oKlack7lC_oPeeN7_MAwP0R6Hc5nWT6f1HoTzGPlFqaxnGDbtj0vXl7lLnY8Zo_GpfOzkRPTiNYe57UEOE-FntzqhtvBR08zB6_q2Sv6fLk3xjithF8_FBm96ZHg-DNS6y-bZPxxMfgjGzY/s320/20230724_180322.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECgLbxhwkH_9m_YAu96FdaeQmOWw84GvJeAVaoRLl7l6Eg7eXOyCf4yLWEN1HBnS09przu3mtiFMFfYUXmi6TfyAJY2DDp5gdMh4ZhWFtOqFW3WCkcij80g0obHc8bIh5HtQKp9DzAdXMocY6IawYbSRPvyJkRPi90jLuFu06nnhPphaJyIc8kpCcVRM/s1209/20230724_180347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECgLbxhwkH_9m_YAu96FdaeQmOWw84GvJeAVaoRLl7l6Eg7eXOyCf4yLWEN1HBnS09przu3mtiFMFfYUXmi6TfyAJY2DDp5gdMh4ZhWFtOqFW3WCkcij80g0obHc8bIh5HtQKp9DzAdXMocY6IawYbSRPvyJkRPi90jLuFu06nnhPphaJyIc8kpCcVRM/s320/20230724_180347.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhomgx00icWYmaXjUu67sse_Mp4bg-P4Si4MXvAxxDOYfs3nqQzdZVr71ZgmZ2ik_b-dATqoXdcds1QRNBE-ipcHcwdpWxTAWl_FnviX2iJmKTh2PWsKrU3epTNNGTgplCLEiKosCvr4YIthHpNmd3I1iSE88bZK0Z1etoIPSUckDtkUBm1huE6tuoF73U/s1209/20230724_180404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhomgx00icWYmaXjUu67sse_Mp4bg-P4Si4MXvAxxDOYfs3nqQzdZVr71ZgmZ2ik_b-dATqoXdcds1QRNBE-ipcHcwdpWxTAWl_FnviX2iJmKTh2PWsKrU3epTNNGTgplCLEiKosCvr4YIthHpNmd3I1iSE88bZK0Z1etoIPSUckDtkUBm1huE6tuoF73U/s320/20230724_180404.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2DLmoCreV0fil3AAGefMp6tgAWiFDFcyNc5pNdnZzClFDHfiSF8V8lk7L8GsXYLG8JWIKtK10vcy_pQZzTxRZomnsSb6U6IK5k2psqR6gKi7ZYlR3hEELVIOwNUTxcO9dSAGsp1JQMnJGtkMQboiGqwjc1nzxXAmVGE2hspi7sYbh2ywr1TwHpGww7k/s1209/20230724_180419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2DLmoCreV0fil3AAGefMp6tgAWiFDFcyNc5pNdnZzClFDHfiSF8V8lk7L8GsXYLG8JWIKtK10vcy_pQZzTxRZomnsSb6U6IK5k2psqR6gKi7ZYlR3hEELVIOwNUTxcO9dSAGsp1JQMnJGtkMQboiGqwjc1nzxXAmVGE2hspi7sYbh2ywr1TwHpGww7k/s320/20230724_180419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlE92mMCtdFYhLIWlf1ksd4Ckmi-sLtOQDkRU_PG_OBs84dwSLWb_40LNDqHSMJVtAQjc4OhfOXqYaPG667gxfhmDSUWUqadjYSTLJrhio2V61dDBtL9I4msw2Y4tlStiqAFIjyjWI9OoV4yuUE_q-pOCIF_8Kbe-QYoFp98ehcqPJO5ZRdfHptAm5BVc/s1209/20230724_180503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlE92mMCtdFYhLIWlf1ksd4Ckmi-sLtOQDkRU_PG_OBs84dwSLWb_40LNDqHSMJVtAQjc4OhfOXqYaPG667gxfhmDSUWUqadjYSTLJrhio2V61dDBtL9I4msw2Y4tlStiqAFIjyjWI9OoV4yuUE_q-pOCIF_8Kbe-QYoFp98ehcqPJO5ZRdfHptAm5BVc/s320/20230724_180503.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sempre qui, in un ristorante sulla spiaggia, ceniamo, quando ormai si è fatto buio e l'aria ha rinfrescato. Sotto ad un portico di rampicanti in fiore, vediamo accendersi le luci di tutta la costa, e ci godiamo un guacamole delizioso con i piedi nella sabbia. Stiamo vivendo istanti preziosi, stiamo forgiando ricordi indimenticabili.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYwhoBC3mMZbP09rL8rwyM3Gk-TNQsBDRwvjn5prxEe9SId5BPZ8bDPuLntxxwVPAVZ4n6_gdeUFZHbHg6VSCYdgdVoOn9s6YUtM_PlQOlzucBe1V3kS50gIUiqPDfRrhzHvdsj_eufoSmS3g4dq-vycMJniydYamP4CCj6h2dsLxLskRVHLQeuKbQKs/s1209/20230724_192445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYwhoBC3mMZbP09rL8rwyM3Gk-TNQsBDRwvjn5prxEe9SId5BPZ8bDPuLntxxwVPAVZ4n6_gdeUFZHbHg6VSCYdgdVoOn9s6YUtM_PlQOlzucBe1V3kS50gIUiqPDfRrhzHvdsj_eufoSmS3g4dq-vycMJniydYamP4CCj6h2dsLxLskRVHLQeuKbQKs/s320/20230724_192445.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmsC8tJHgTql7zm3HE9o_mcFQJIi1gRfH7IuP7l22Adwsui7Ozn27jG9A-kIl7fBj1W8Jcg_UruYbdDHu8cy2G9GW4V5QeI56rG0cGdCQvO6G5Fyup899X29Gvzs1b7A8Zu5dB8wSTqf40_VpQY9_YX7EipfEbzaidsuPwgXM6OKG0J5oPi0sho0GxdY/s979/20230724_192526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBmsC8tJHgTql7zm3HE9o_mcFQJIi1gRfH7IuP7l22Adwsui7Ozn27jG9A-kIl7fBj1W8Jcg_UruYbdDHu8cy2G9GW4V5QeI56rG0cGdCQvO6G5Fyup899X29Gvzs1b7A8Zu5dB8wSTqf40_VpQY9_YX7EipfEbzaidsuPwgXM6OKG0J5oPi0sho0GxdY/s320/20230724_192526.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Da domani saremo in montagna. Puntiamo a Oaxaca capitale, che dista 250km con quasi 5000m di dislivello. Abbiamo diviso il percorso in 4 tappe. Sarà impegnativo. Ma le vette chiamano!</div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-54110160756970379182023-07-22T06:48:00.002+02:002023-07-22T06:48:21.473+02:0028-30. Oaxaca! Pedalando l'istmo, tra culture matriarcali e carovane di migranti del "tren de la muerte"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4tzT8xBOgYS-ehUNqYxUl1RFAyARux_snPSUJ4iyKDa9cAvpCTFPjo6cqBvUmCRWxRmhmRnr_tqPlNynwCqcF-vBETkQjEPzPRsB3WWb4-ZaOvNpUGQKQkyjC61Nu0I26pIFn7fbvatpAeEkBuBBXT8P4KtPr3B-A2Yw0lJYU3y8-XAGEyTsff9OrX8I/s1209/20230721_100157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4tzT8xBOgYS-ehUNqYxUl1RFAyARux_snPSUJ4iyKDa9cAvpCTFPjo6cqBvUmCRWxRmhmRnr_tqPlNynwCqcF-vBETkQjEPzPRsB3WWb4-ZaOvNpUGQKQkyjC61Nu0I26pIFn7fbvatpAeEkBuBBXT8P4KtPr3B-A2Yw0lJYU3y8-XAGEyTsff9OrX8I/w640-h480/20230721_100157.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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Ho accumulato una carenza di sonno che mi impone di riposare, e, siccome la sera faccio sempre tardi, perchè la connessione è quella che è, tutto va lento e le tappe vanno raffinate man mano, questa mattina mi concedo una sveglia alle 8.30. La tappa, inoltre, dovrebbe essere abbastanza tranquilla, quasi in piano, senza grandi deviazioni. Dovrebbe. Perchè quel "quasi in piano" significherà poi 1000m di dislivello tutti concentrati in poche, lunghe rampe esposte al più criminale dei soli estivi tropicali. E le deviazioni, come sempre, ci sono, anche se non cercate. Ce le porta la strada, come la corrente del fiume porta tronchi e ninfee.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Salutiamo il pueblo magico (sono solo 6 in tutto il Chiapas) di Chiapa de Corzo e la casa coloniale dove abbiamo pernottato. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjG3uW9o_rnHaLi7vffisyZrRmCao2Us2Rnvsb1EPOA6oboKiZ3ih302JbnoUH0XgIJzrp3hFdDebekSSDeFvrwW1SkY7qHX7HKCSURjKi_brkcvx2o8WCo-T20dMy47OYoXVpmLTvBQ2qBd2jMaftuKhhHJeOB8zOIJ9S92ehqcN1mtb5PncHFluB4ME/s1209/20230719_093135.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjG3uW9o_rnHaLi7vffisyZrRmCao2Us2Rnvsb1EPOA6oboKiZ3ih302JbnoUH0XgIJzrp3hFdDebekSSDeFvrwW1SkY7qHX7HKCSURjKi_brkcvx2o8WCo-T20dMy47OYoXVpmLTvBQ2qBd2jMaftuKhhHJeOB8zOIJ9S92ehqcN1mtb5PncHFluB4ME/s320/20230719_093135.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Riattraversiamo il centro, che ancora si sta svegliando, dove bancarelle e ambulantes iniziano a preparare le loro merci e le loro ugole per l'imminente arrivo dei primi turisti della giornata. In un attimo siamo fuori dalla città, che ci congeda con la statue della chiapaneca e del chiapaneco.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrgRuKEt-f5TxxC_hzTXWJedXG-pqSQHI0tEdr4P9mTQSdaze5z0ABxA7WX-8BQDnZMMU9mlSPbZXu9GZ_0p6fycHmLUE9Z5IRLliBjM4pElBTBnDamTeHjLXEx-CM1oW-azwIQQuqEq3oIQrDkL25eaiBxrZIyezYcNxH_6BsAV46ZUT2ATmrZq2zI4/s1209/20230719_094602.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrgRuKEt-f5TxxC_hzTXWJedXG-pqSQHI0tEdr4P9mTQSdaze5z0ABxA7WX-8BQDnZMMU9mlSPbZXu9GZ_0p6fycHmLUE9Z5IRLliBjM4pElBTBnDamTeHjLXEx-CM1oW-azwIQQuqEq3oIQrDkL25eaiBxrZIyezYcNxH_6BsAV46ZUT2ATmrZq2zI4/s320/20230719_094602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlRKYeDdudIaCfOC6KMtvIwvCf9lOTr_Dh1EjZXJimCUNUcMcghmLtu2v6No5fGgDcaVfJbQFigF_ygRpWb-cGWlmFfFq9QbCdjOpexdNfcHTqcdX-Wtede7zoIKX1YXOn_cUKPZBSlnFKArlDAkgcOPjsn30Tw2dtNsc0gLta3yteoqJoDu4HUEWmskw/s1209/20230719_094700.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlRKYeDdudIaCfOC6KMtvIwvCf9lOTr_Dh1EjZXJimCUNUcMcghmLtu2v6No5fGgDcaVfJbQFigF_ygRpWb-cGWlmFfFq9QbCdjOpexdNfcHTqcdX-Wtede7zoIKX1YXOn_cUKPZBSlnFKArlDAkgcOPjsn30Tw2dtNsc0gLta3yteoqJoDu4HUEWmskw/s320/20230719_094700.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Superato un posto di blocco dell'esercito, che controlla gli accessi alla capitale dello stato, transitiamo sul ponte che ieri abbiamo visto dal basso, navigando verso il Canyon del Sumidero. Da qui abbiamo una visuale nuova del rio che ha scavato la roccia e delle scoscese pareti di pietra che si tuffano in acqua dopo un grido di centinaia di metri.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoErT1Fe28e0FIMVeO-V2AQqtQX4cGbC7jK0D1bg3QIp6ALCXHFA4-bprCS6G_ABXvMJ31LPh_ZNYvmSBzdnsPG8uIQBkyQWHOH2VX0oUGVZ5JkUcUCymRf-o9JItExU8uci7d_vE1X4ws18IusnAcmGtLMELA4vtySpyr76fIaT9A8gCfUa0tEc5CCVI/s1209/20230719_100207.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoErT1Fe28e0FIMVeO-V2AQqtQX4cGbC7jK0D1bg3QIp6ALCXHFA4-bprCS6G_ABXvMJ31LPh_ZNYvmSBzdnsPG8uIQBkyQWHOH2VX0oUGVZ5JkUcUCymRf-o9JItExU8uci7d_vE1X4ws18IusnAcmGtLMELA4vtySpyr76fIaT9A8gCfUa0tEc5CCVI/s320/20230719_100207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sa qui inizia la lunga, faticosa traversata di Txtla Gutierrez, unica grande città del Chiapas, torrida, affollata, ma che nasconde angoli di quiete e perle d'arte. Abbiamo deciso di non visitarla, se non di passaggio, perchè, rispetto ad altri luoghi, risulta decisamente più anonima e poco interessante, a tratti anche bruttina. E' grande, lunga, larga, piena di gente. Ha tutti i sevizi che si convengono a una capitale. La gente sembra amichevole e particolarmente aperta, ma forse abbiamo questa impressione perchè veniamo da pueblos e villaggi. Insomma: chi ha tempo, ne esplori gli angolini preziosi, chi non ne ha, va bene che la attraversi e basta. Noi facciamo così, seguendo la statale che la percorre nel centro esatto da parte a parte, come una spina dorsale. Raggiungiamo, stando quasi sempre su ciclabile, che ci salva dal traffico folle e dalle manovre pazze dei colectivos e dei mototaxi, la plaza civica. Anche questa è grande e basta, e i si affacciano edifici in cemento che sono un po' commerciali e un po' municipali.</div><div>Di là dalla strada si erge la candida Catedral de San Marcos; allo scoccare di ogni ora il campanile suona una melodia accompagnata da un carosello ben kitsch con immagini degli apostoli che sbucano dalla parte alta dell'edificio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWCG0ZIa0jinBaga0_QvD8kxOouMGkyq_xt4d11l-xG_sKfCLMpVBsqvrnwIu6Q6NL1DJhs9R538GVM3fdK8zcxSN_S4WhDBqyjDieF6QIpylH4fPTA8LY6W4BvRvH-MZHLnyxGUJH3XoBRJFWHevY5_Km8afxK82fMiBzB-QO-DH2Ws-HAUJjVik1S8A/s1209/20230719_105009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWCG0ZIa0jinBaga0_QvD8kxOouMGkyq_xt4d11l-xG_sKfCLMpVBsqvrnwIu6Q6NL1DJhs9R538GVM3fdK8zcxSN_S4WhDBqyjDieF6QIpylH4fPTA8LY6W4BvRvH-MZHLnyxGUJH3XoBRJFWHevY5_Km8afxK82fMiBzB-QO-DH2Ws-HAUJjVik1S8A/s320/20230719_105009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR1hunGPxfnb1obpWXxmq2vz3_1KZkWKZOb3-DOFmPKCCvdwet_DSvGRR4a62e4AMCylWkwlu1Njaxz6AWwkT8x3Jfgw4ywjl8yQ8GG8CADNhb0gvv92STaPbRZ5vcZe5_pZLC8iO-QOkacrt76AD7Q7TivCuCoq3AinSwktiOkZ20_eX9XlqOfIQx62g/s1209/20230719_105043.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR1hunGPxfnb1obpWXxmq2vz3_1KZkWKZOb3-DOFmPKCCvdwet_DSvGRR4a62e4AMCylWkwlu1Njaxz6AWwkT8x3Jfgw4ywjl8yQ8GG8CADNhb0gvv92STaPbRZ5vcZe5_pZLC8iO-QOkacrt76AD7Q7TivCuCoq3AinSwktiOkZ20_eX9XlqOfIQx62g/s320/20230719_105043.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcCSo5Hq6voaT24pXs6KOgDrkFlwVFazX4WeESAs42b51XQgPaqxMSffNy9zZgSpERbZfznDvp42HepxN6UDEBMLKoIN9fFylv4gg0U_-4oyGsurGixwcSi2cWAW2vh365Xr_j3KRJvqlfx6CfJz36apeNDW4a_KULl3WS6Tyh7G5forugL66DYtoBv0/s1209/20230719_105118.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcCSo5Hq6voaT24pXs6KOgDrkFlwVFazX4WeESAs42b51XQgPaqxMSffNy9zZgSpERbZfznDvp42HepxN6UDEBMLKoIN9fFylv4gg0U_-4oyGsurGixwcSi2cWAW2vh365Xr_j3KRJvqlfx6CfJz36apeNDW4a_KULl3WS6Tyh7G5forugL66DYtoBv0/s320/20230719_105118.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Poco avanti si apre il più piacevole Jardin de la Marimba, dove si svolge il classico paseo dei local, al pomeriggio tardo e alla sera, quando la morsa del caldo molla la presa. Qui, dopo le 18, si tengopno concerti gratuiti di marimba e musica tradizionale, e pare che tutta la città si raduni per ascoltare e soprattutto ballare, giovani e anziani. I più curiosi possono anche visitare il museo della marimba, noi ci limitiamo ad ascoltare i numerosi artisti di strada che si esibiscono ad ogni crocicchio, a patto che ci stia la marimba (che non è mica piccola!). Altri musei&Co che balziamo? Del caffè, regionale, zoo e giardino botanico. Questi sono nell'intera city. Ci siamo capiti. Mentre scattiamo foto nel Jardin de la Marimba, ci raggiunge Pedro, che si presenta come fondatore di BiciMovilizate, associazione e nutrito gruppo di cittadini che chiedono infrastrutture per la sicurezza stradale dei ciclisti e promuovono l'uso della bicicletta in contesto urbano. Ci scambiamo i social, facciamo quattro chiacchiere, mi mostra i suoi tatuaggi a tema bici (qui in Messico i tattoo valgono più della carta d'identità o del CV, per presentarsi!) e ci invita alla pedalata di gruppo di stasera. Dice che ieri ha coinvolto un altro cicloturista che andava a SanCris; deve essere il ragazzo che noi abbiamo intravisto sfrecciare in discesa appena fuori dalla città! Gli spieghiamo che stiamo procedendo a passo svelto verso Oaxaca, e che non possiamo trattenerci stasera. Ma gli auguro tutto il meglio. Sta facendo una cosa grande, e se ci sono ciclabili e passaggi sicuri è anche grazie a lui e ai suoi. Grande Pedro! Hasta siempre!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy11PZL81jHW8GJPULaQGKYPbgoS3FkZ8Y0iDq1hoUewKQ8bZvSVn1PEpM49AcgHbhm_4E6v7mLCc1wCQzYwYa9tlSLeXT04nfbs5CEy_R9Er0kiuFXmF2koNkQrXKN8x_D9NI3RuYM5L6kYUdVS9kfBwnrTnbKSSGDIY9dwmzHAK_OAuJmETIc77cHtM/s1209/20230719_105836.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy11PZL81jHW8GJPULaQGKYPbgoS3FkZ8Y0iDq1hoUewKQ8bZvSVn1PEpM49AcgHbhm_4E6v7mLCc1wCQzYwYa9tlSLeXT04nfbs5CEy_R9Er0kiuFXmF2koNkQrXKN8x_D9NI3RuYM5L6kYUdVS9kfBwnrTnbKSSGDIY9dwmzHAK_OAuJmETIc77cHtM/s320/20230719_105836.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjg1kkt6hFZr0VWDEfB95v_J0F5qI6wt_yOTpwFKPTbOKXb105wNngdwC-Ce7rAQrxDN0PgRK29bHanHlggEy8E5CKHnC6Li650GnylgXFTcljHvmKC9H7MKdmIwIkpeSqsvw-WygY-pYMZ0Oi71ACfmsqCglrB3NLZXFqTytg8TKI1aUpBQ0EGsalOo/s989/20230719_110322.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjg1kkt6hFZr0VWDEfB95v_J0F5qI6wt_yOTpwFKPTbOKXb105wNngdwC-Ce7rAQrxDN0PgRK29bHanHlggEy8E5CKHnC6Li650GnylgXFTcljHvmKC9H7MKdmIwIkpeSqsvw-WygY-pYMZ0Oi71ACfmsqCglrB3NLZXFqTytg8TKI1aUpBQ0EGsalOo/s320/20230719_110322.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0eIheLvd_5J3hKDQ8lR4ah4IsUKhihyK6H9ajgYTtOEoskNGgeuBHsQhKBo_VBlg03lm2dBylA9z61K_JPfDPWy93n9vmLDP4XlLRPmmZibJpJmZsnNRm7QtUdweAR-UvJYn9MOoDKNRylgndG_gHqIEmBtNmAwKoN6AUvYJQlbZu6Bmv9vUe8UovcTQ/s1209/20230719_111608.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0eIheLvd_5J3hKDQ8lR4ah4IsUKhihyK6H9ajgYTtOEoskNGgeuBHsQhKBo_VBlg03lm2dBylA9z61K_JPfDPWy93n9vmLDP4XlLRPmmZibJpJmZsnNRm7QtUdweAR-UvJYn9MOoDKNRylgndG_gHqIEmBtNmAwKoN6AUvYJQlbZu6Bmv9vUe8UovcTQ/s320/20230719_111608.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di uscire dalla città, due curiosità su Tuxtla. Questo luogo era abitato dagli zoque, che furono poi conquistati dagli aztechi tra 1486 e 1505 (un momento perfetto per essere poi travolti dai conquistadores!). Tuxtla, infatti deriva da una parola nahuatl che significa "luogo pieno di conigli", che è la traduzione del medesimo nomo zapoteco. Nel 1528 il Chiapas fu sottomesso alla corona di Spagna, arrivarono i domenicani e organizzarono qui un insediamento per gli zoque dispersi. Dopo un paio di secoli gli abitanti di Tuxtla si dichiararono indipendenti sia dal Messico spagnolo sia dal Guatemala, che mirava ad annessioni territoriali. Ad impedire che la città passasse sotto il controllo guatemalteco fu proprio quel Gutierrez che ora è ricordato nel toponimo. Il Chiapas, tramite votazione popolare, passò per intero al Messico. Tuxtla è stata la prima città messicana a essere certificata come "sicura", nel 2011, passati gli ardori zapatisti. E' lo snodo economico, commerciale, di trasporto e turistico principale, motivo per cui ha senso che la capitale sia qui e non più San Cristobal.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbgF5GzbzObtuexTX1Fbf6GUqXoh0bAm7iZK4Wlkh6cIGG0AE81IviEsboBvWTaHxfCqY2Q1nMysgmrPN02hGtfhsQzb9eLhOmI5YruOyWXekBkF37vd6361HdXlr-J0NN4Mq-nG8KZ9po0aXTjZJQ310wPaqmUF5105CNTu0Qvpms2SO9tPtiJ6Fk8s/s1209/20230719_114323.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbgF5GzbzObtuexTX1Fbf6GUqXoh0bAm7iZK4Wlkh6cIGG0AE81IviEsboBvWTaHxfCqY2Q1nMysgmrPN02hGtfhsQzb9eLhOmI5YruOyWXekBkF37vd6361HdXlr-J0NN4Mq-nG8KZ9po0aXTjZJQ310wPaqmUF5105CNTu0Qvpms2SO9tPtiJ6Fk8s/s320/20230719_114323.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tra una sosta e l'altra, usciamo da Tuxtla che è già tarda mattina, e il sole cuoce. Ci brucia sulla schiena e sul collo, sul cervello direttamente. Io non ho una sudorazione particolarmente abbondante, ma ora sgoccioli come un panno strizzato, e dalla testa, dal viso, dalle braccia cade una pioggia di continua di umori che si portan via la cresima, l'anima, il senno. Oltretutto siamo in salita. Non è ripida, parliamo di collinette. Ma la strada corre inesorabilmente dritta, sui fianchi delle colline, in un saliscendi che è più sali che scendi. Torniamo a superare i 1000 metri. La stradone non ha nemmeno un millimetro di ombra e quindi tocca proseguire, anche perchè abbiamo percorso ancora pochi kilometri e procediamo con penosa lentezza. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Un dettaglio splatter: non so se è il caldo, o lo sbalzo di quota, lo sforzo fisico o il sintomo di una malattia grave. Ma dal naso sta uscendo tutto quel che non è uscito i giorni scorsi di raffreddore e tubicini idraulici della faccia intasati. Avete presente la colla vinilica per gli Art attack? Ecco, io la produco. A tonnellate, dal naso. I miei guantini da bici assomigliano a quelle colombaie per la raccolta del guano di piccione che ho visto in Marocco e in Cappadoccia. Fine dettaglio splatter.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Sali sali sali, scendi, risali risali risali. Scendicchi. Risalissimi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Così, fino a bruciarci gli occhi e i neuroni, oltrechè la pelle, nel sole dell'ora panica. Vedrai che lo veneravano!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Poi, finalmente, la strada inizia a scendere in modo più deciso. Abbiamo superato la pima fila di colline di oggi, e finalmente ci godiamo l'aria fresca e il riposo della discesa a cannone tra pendii che ora paiono dolci e coperti di un manto smeraldino. Prima, in salita, erano maledetti dagli dei di ogni tempo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWXtuuTTg4D_PxYekyEB58RbvROPN8gN08KnQ07ei-v0GI4oPt4f4y7rO5CLMC0GkxUhZ5NDIAHKv0i88CzOLc40bCl5uCWvqlr0g3azNIq2seHGV84b2e3rNudf8tgacqQ5J9urPwWVCtcEbtOzLHaCTTivFc2xcxiHmd02XExSEB5wzZojEwloYU8Q/s1209/20230719_132555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWXtuuTTg4D_PxYekyEB58RbvROPN8gN08KnQ07ei-v0GI4oPt4f4y7rO5CLMC0GkxUhZ5NDIAHKv0i88CzOLc40bCl5uCWvqlr0g3azNIq2seHGV84b2e3rNudf8tgacqQ5J9urPwWVCtcEbtOzLHaCTTivFc2xcxiHmd02XExSEB5wzZojEwloYU8Q/s320/20230719_132555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbidjv5-_Bx1ZY2UC6kyXB-bfL_5MBEIIjHjHQZvQgj_gltHSpFqdD3P-wQ-y_8cBPDFpsDj17ReSWItxMJVTw_kJhHUHUbN8WlbiF_VoKuIDXlXYDTlqw6Cjbd2eVNj8uIWIa3xreKXLAoAYk6WXAKzdUUtItp8mRyHromYEu9W4ZAk7bZ2gdzQrE9c8/s1209/20230719_132601.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbidjv5-_Bx1ZY2UC6kyXB-bfL_5MBEIIjHjHQZvQgj_gltHSpFqdD3P-wQ-y_8cBPDFpsDj17ReSWItxMJVTw_kJhHUHUbN8WlbiF_VoKuIDXlXYDTlqw6Cjbd2eVNj8uIWIa3xreKXLAoAYk6WXAKzdUUtItp8mRyHromYEu9W4ZAk7bZ2gdzQrE9c8/s320/20230719_132601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFRBzQ_sGj1RZqxP9eWVw2zNhzQiS9pDqiBE_Bw77HFNS0yyHvcGg1Q6c5IJ3nFRusyiPU15ygkXJit4-PTtL7oukJLMH4uLKyWAMQLG2tTk4InTPs5C2ykeb2DJpmWN_7OIjVGZajteEoyJ4DGZ84nr5aeovdPtBFAV7A-3_IGTSxYxbX5o4WxCgIvRM/s1209/20230719_132605.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFRBzQ_sGj1RZqxP9eWVw2zNhzQiS9pDqiBE_Bw77HFNS0yyHvcGg1Q6c5IJ3nFRusyiPU15ygkXJit4-PTtL7oukJLMH4uLKyWAMQLG2tTk4InTPs5C2ykeb2DJpmWN_7OIjVGZajteEoyJ4DGZ84nr5aeovdPtBFAV7A-3_IGTSxYxbX5o4WxCgIvRM/s320/20230719_132605.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ubriachi di discesa arriviamo a Ocozocoautla de Espinosa, altro pueblo magico, che noi vediamo però, voglio sperare, nella parte non magica ma colpita da fattura e malocchio, perchè ne vediamo alcuni quartieri polverosi e lerci, pieni di immondizia, cani randagi e pozze d'acqua stagnante e malarosa. Insomma, nessun giudizio di merito, solo sensate esperienze alla Galileo. Va bene tutto, ma pueblo magico no, dai. Non in questi quartieri almeno.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoroT80ybCt9i2j4xHAfO4jflbKeujczyqOyRxFSRwJbmsPORl80Yn-j6ptegb88izOngL47VEpEU8_epWLnHWx8YTf4nwFCK3glFtyV9SL9Z9nSpi1_kTR9WisdBFO_OQNpivizPnf1jkLwkrjzVgv_eyyqrVJjwuUnlQC5Md-ncnZ-AqXMoAZO00W6E/s1209/20230719_134130.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoroT80ybCt9i2j4xHAfO4jflbKeujczyqOyRxFSRwJbmsPORl80Yn-j6ptegb88izOngL47VEpEU8_epWLnHWx8YTf4nwFCK3glFtyV9SL9Z9nSpi1_kTR9WisdBFO_OQNpivizPnf1jkLwkrjzVgv_eyyqrVJjwuUnlQC5Md-ncnZ-AqXMoAZO00W6E/s320/20230719_134130.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Anche qui vivevano gli zoque, poi sottomessi agli aztechi e poi presi nel sacco tutti insieme dagli spagnoli. Ma qui i conquistadores non hanno avuto vita facile: già nel 1592 ci fu una rivolta indigena e gli zoque si ripresero le terre spartite con le encomiendas e nel 1722 scoppiò un violento disordine perchè un sacerdote aveva ordinato di tagliare una ceiba, un albero sacro. Peccato che qui, tra eruzioni vulcaniche e terremoti, la vita sia costantemente appesa a un filo sottile. Il nome significa bosco di ocozote (pianta tessile).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tra la città e le successive colline ci troviamo immersi in una quasi pianura verdissima, sede di ranchos e coltivata in parte, in parte selvaggia e brada. Non ci sono che minuscoli agglomerati di case, capanne più che altro, sparsi e distanti dalla strada. Altro che la cabaña dei sogni, pubblicizzata su grandi cartelloni fuori Tuxtla, dove le agenzie vendono lotti di terreno appena oltre la cintura urbana, facendo desiderare agli annoiati topi di città una vita spartana e più autentica.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpiDjHPDHhZ5gSNZq7zwJpwkB53C6PdXraifTl3GU85-WbvTAHe5LISfw2FOLNFDu_FUKKszbYDc6Rjrb1_6QdCzi1EEFJcygGE5K-OhRTycJsr7-fjqf35M07a6_1yXvwEcre_8gpCX1Wi3KqQxdAUyiBMjPCets_VR9RAnWVdRLgBY3e1l2t3mSadEU/s1209/20230719_135820.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpiDjHPDHhZ5gSNZq7zwJpwkB53C6PdXraifTl3GU85-WbvTAHe5LISfw2FOLNFDu_FUKKszbYDc6Rjrb1_6QdCzi1EEFJcygGE5K-OhRTycJsr7-fjqf35M07a6_1yXvwEcre_8gpCX1Wi3KqQxdAUyiBMjPCets_VR9RAnWVdRLgBY3e1l2t3mSadEU/s320/20230719_135820.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn5PPOdbqKw3MIlvZSkOE2H-0smsN2Fp_HwmXX2ko0S9p631pB7Bv1__NBbY0l4_y7BcyB_TX43RmcLwIDHWqHMQKv77nB3Z5Z8FyOUQn85if_VhYW9Usymat9m05CLpyImtIedYMMf7-1zaH4Z_N9G4zUk3p7YJAwvFLBMITYk6sKIn-KltTITcBhA_k/s1209/20230719_140547.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn5PPOdbqKw3MIlvZSkOE2H-0smsN2Fp_HwmXX2ko0S9p631pB7Bv1__NBbY0l4_y7BcyB_TX43RmcLwIDHWqHMQKv77nB3Z5Z8FyOUQn85if_VhYW9Usymat9m05CLpyImtIedYMMf7-1zaH4Z_N9G4zUk3p7YJAwvFLBMITYk6sKIn-KltTITcBhA_k/s320/20230719_140547.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwDEsW42tfxBUMS74hzeI0wA8aGwuENchp5noQp7c0S9nLaiq_nJ7e5iYzb-40aj5WHqR6YowEGgZXp5evwPgyngKRVl8qNZvZ-NCdL2EtIN40YrWTi81FpNsuA8grbAnNNSzJN2y9HNb5Fh8TxaHq4gjZkki58X5IEs9CyZqG2XJSHoRrKHDrd-8QlI/s1209/20230719_141709.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwDEsW42tfxBUMS74hzeI0wA8aGwuENchp5noQp7c0S9nLaiq_nJ7e5iYzb-40aj5WHqR6YowEGgZXp5evwPgyngKRVl8qNZvZ-NCdL2EtIN40YrWTi81FpNsuA8grbAnNNSzJN2y9HNb5Fh8TxaHq4gjZkki58X5IEs9CyZqG2XJSHoRrKHDrd-8QlI/s320/20230719_141709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSOKUo-4rEK6uFD2vFBmrJCgQ1wrIVLMeBMfsezAnoKZgGGMzsr1AAa-gWBoEMpu4WKSE7T-x7jITKHZxi1rWQARINTjohk-VQtqndBDxTG1LRBCUgw20dwNAU8aAG7RpuA5Zn7RyDxyoXTtPYaImJO7-oREpLG3ekP54-Mlstn79XiEu8j-WakOmnMY/s1209/20230719_142456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSOKUo-4rEK6uFD2vFBmrJCgQ1wrIVLMeBMfsezAnoKZgGGMzsr1AAa-gWBoEMpu4WKSE7T-x7jITKHZxi1rWQARINTjohk-VQtqndBDxTG1LRBCUgw20dwNAU8aAG7RpuA5Zn7RyDxyoXTtPYaImJO7-oREpLG3ekP54-Mlstn79XiEu8j-WakOmnMY/s320/20230719_142456.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Proprio in uno di questi insediamenti ci fermiamo per una pausa. Siamo bolliti, finora non abbiamo fatto soste e beviamo acqua caldissima da ore. Ma abbiamo recuperato un po' di kilometri. Quindi ci concediamo una sosta, con tanto di pranzetto tardivo a base di banane e platano fritto. La bodeguita è la casa, in cemento, lamiere e legno, di una famiglia che ha due frigoriferi e tre espositori, una manciata di merce in vendita e la fortuna di trovarsi a bordo di una strada dove a volte passa qualcuno. Nel paese di sono altre tre o quattro abitazioni. Vediamo solo bambine e bambini transitare dal negozietto, o carichi di bottiglie di plastica raccolte e da rivendere. Due, avranno cinque o sei anni, ne portano alcune in una carriola e giocano a rigonfiare la gomma con una pompa da bici. I colectivos rallentano davanti alle case e suonano di cattiveria il clacson tre o quattro volte, così da segnalarsi qualora qualcuno necessitasse di un passaggio. Passa anche un pick up che vende bombole di gas. Si segnala con una musichina tipo gelataio, con campanelli, tamburino e carillon. Fa il giro delle case a passo d'uomo. Nessuno compra. Se ne va.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD3vTcoywYGuQlhSl_Y3m0E3khwADl_QEgQgTt_srum5L3Zy2x61IhnNshXI5e5KVX2G28-XCtGd40esvdH9SdTGqXW7b1Lul01ge0wFMC_Oki4cTlaGYDkUANRI8kUdtx2_GXuVbNkooHNw87qmHrhcdTl4dhn61UDb1jQNHCqMMa7pCPE2k64w-B4Qc/s1209/20230719_144134.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD3vTcoywYGuQlhSl_Y3m0E3khwADl_QEgQgTt_srum5L3Zy2x61IhnNshXI5e5KVX2G28-XCtGd40esvdH9SdTGqXW7b1Lul01ge0wFMC_Oki4cTlaGYDkUANRI8kUdtx2_GXuVbNkooHNw87qmHrhcdTl4dhn61UDb1jQNHCqMMa7pCPE2k64w-B4Qc/s320/20230719_144134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqi8BhpfkZNXlQaiRUtSD0Tmke70vfsqBgHn-IBO7nvf5jMcr18vHn3dwUeEprg-Ds5R9XogCv6kBX7vjhAzjpXZlhZjiX93e_dmV1jB-jGHcUCA3AVHjveQ60XUp5u0yu7gzVt3xudON12ov7GdX7y0nrWk2pLMnUWYl1Y71ZWFg0TJnfAwjH8vTTXls/s1209/20230719_144144.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqi8BhpfkZNXlQaiRUtSD0Tmke70vfsqBgHn-IBO7nvf5jMcr18vHn3dwUeEprg-Ds5R9XogCv6kBX7vjhAzjpXZlhZjiX93e_dmV1jB-jGHcUCA3AVHjveQ60XUp5u0yu7gzVt3xudON12ov7GdX7y0nrWk2pLMnUWYl1Y71ZWFg0TJnfAwjH8vTTXls/s320/20230719_144144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFdHFwek5ydkH8t_kLDWVLcvWJlM3mM0DwKSJjvr6Qw0nTL9UuCa536BBWBlWE6Jer49TvZzuy1ReeMpr_fablxR2RtL1sEijNBSs51XUCN1ZBqI3WG0VEvW0478rHm41pLIKv-ZnwC3aaRsYCmK-ClXnBXo2e2OjhgLfX9B_21OpBuWzPQ7voNN5BpB8/s1209/20230719_144314.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFdHFwek5ydkH8t_kLDWVLcvWJlM3mM0DwKSJjvr6Qw0nTL9UuCa536BBWBlWE6Jer49TvZzuy1ReeMpr_fablxR2RtL1sEijNBSs51XUCN1ZBqI3WG0VEvW0478rHm41pLIKv-ZnwC3aaRsYCmK-ClXnBXo2e2OjhgLfX9B_21OpBuWzPQ7voNN5BpB8/s320/20230719_144314.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7byPNl-Q3W0DbNkJv7Ayy1-Ko7x5uwUtslNxwZtuzLPGrKMho8HsBARTwNXvP2gh4VI077Ni7Hre2OD-T6Z2FA9Q1fwq1i5AqOjL_W59bNSfdreEc68bkyAxjPW4l0djcmUpZELu6E-KcArhYUNAYX6b-fv5-bbuqD7rQHEsMJoWvjkmnxhVA1_IBrUo/s1209/20230719_144334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7byPNl-Q3W0DbNkJv7Ayy1-Ko7x5uwUtslNxwZtuzLPGrKMho8HsBARTwNXvP2gh4VI077Ni7Hre2OD-T6Z2FA9Q1fwq1i5AqOjL_W59bNSfdreEc68bkyAxjPW4l0djcmUpZELu6E-KcArhYUNAYX6b-fv5-bbuqD7rQHEsMJoWvjkmnxhVA1_IBrUo/s320/20230719_144334.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbXHA_HMVyKYYkDL8RE5CYOoKaKrAgW4Q7KTnnOztkxSridLfXOMFdt6GZOKfuj75Bov_-H-ulj4wx4GVOLbXX8-ZLcKR-OfIwJshr_tnpQBkl2yYEAPMODA5KyrDnfTVYi_Rs8l_AWGmLk_4LoEtgGqW7rVVUldzZIgEcvSeFEumOq-0DDHg6zWlBRE/s1209/20230719_150722.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbXHA_HMVyKYYkDL8RE5CYOoKaKrAgW4Q7KTnnOztkxSridLfXOMFdt6GZOKfuj75Bov_-H-ulj4wx4GVOLbXX8-ZLcKR-OfIwJshr_tnpQBkl2yYEAPMODA5KyrDnfTVYi_Rs8l_AWGmLk_4LoEtgGqW7rVVUldzZIgEcvSeFEumOq-0DDHg6zWlBRE/s320/20230719_150722.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcbDyuZwS1GxDJ3R9AsyxGJw_H5MrrLyyBSyv3obqiJ1mfBF1E8NrWFpNSBRZ6rhM6Yzq0XnmE_9HLkFS4yMv_sVZPXhilz-M28VOXryifI2ipEWYHsnC3Bwo4_MxbvykdZFQ4-NPw8NDAf_N6I5p9HfBaqOyD05rr0QSy_2ygdtaTIMjSgo-3jgq1UzQ/s1209/20230719_151418.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcbDyuZwS1GxDJ3R9AsyxGJw_H5MrrLyyBSyv3obqiJ1mfBF1E8NrWFpNSBRZ6rhM6Yzq0XnmE_9HLkFS4yMv_sVZPXhilz-M28VOXryifI2ipEWYHsnC3Bwo4_MxbvykdZFQ4-NPw8NDAf_N6I5p9HfBaqOyD05rr0QSy_2ygdtaTIMjSgo-3jgq1UzQ/s320/20230719_151418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo esserci riposati un po', ripartiamo. Dobbiamo affrontare l'ultimo giro di colline di oggi, e si prospettano ben faticose, con le loro rampette e i tornanti stretti, su una strada che non ha bordo pedalabile nè guard rail, ma affaccia direttamente sull'abisso. Poi non manca la discesa, che regala scorci incredibili su queste alture dal profilo morbido e verdi di linfa, che sfumano nell'azzurro pe la distanza e l'umidità che fa acquerello di tutto, del cielo e della terra, del legno e della roccia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3PBGmyToXJ7GFfZ7kW7VktJIVkl0QW94eLbXGAs73irp9qTZmSTu76GFhiLMWv7pmaH0p9H-_h414cGK5z7G2PLTuYLi-gSRnUCMmxzjlGvk2undKQwGosgyNESp-CDc0lhwvC12M6pm9K5puMb4kWA9RTYQq7zE7iNggCvPnZcToWYuA4eTVJaW_KKs/s1209/20230719_153410.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3PBGmyToXJ7GFfZ7kW7VktJIVkl0QW94eLbXGAs73irp9qTZmSTu76GFhiLMWv7pmaH0p9H-_h414cGK5z7G2PLTuYLi-gSRnUCMmxzjlGvk2undKQwGosgyNESp-CDc0lhwvC12M6pm9K5puMb4kWA9RTYQq7zE7iNggCvPnZcToWYuA4eTVJaW_KKs/s320/20230719_153410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGYOlWicEw2LPNiGcQXqoihSn2gHGnvTFjTf58gkjRhd4N99fqbxlR5iQikDd_lV2JcY47EnSgfH0C5nnS54fXi4qtNxj9IG4ERY1DAWRrQxhwmmtq3QG3z5sStOiLXqqaVxaEG_KOKQ02RUW6h8vSF8oud71qDlpPBfSAqQ0GCMwPaWR-_pYgJD8QQU/s1209/20230719_154128.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGYOlWicEw2LPNiGcQXqoihSn2gHGnvTFjTf58gkjRhd4N99fqbxlR5iQikDd_lV2JcY47EnSgfH0C5nnS54fXi4qtNxj9IG4ERY1DAWRrQxhwmmtq3QG3z5sStOiLXqqaVxaEG_KOKQ02RUW6h8vSF8oud71qDlpPBfSAqQ0GCMwPaWR-_pYgJD8QQU/s320/20230719_154128.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6-QE8uxCDMnJ-Wtt9viU3RoDYCYPWowAWgTMncSCV5WTkWnxUXHwEWpLtG0AxqJBJIJEdDmHGEP7Z2jDkPUsnhMoaq2_tzb0VScp-xR8LCFD1oF5V72u_Vuu-IW0XyKk5HD14j4UKNmCTRytpU69Asa-dP8h687L2-dyTp1OVeOybhBX-8fwlAfgiZwI/s1209/20230719_154141.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6-QE8uxCDMnJ-Wtt9viU3RoDYCYPWowAWgTMncSCV5WTkWnxUXHwEWpLtG0AxqJBJIJEdDmHGEP7Z2jDkPUsnhMoaq2_tzb0VScp-xR8LCFD1oF5V72u_Vuu-IW0XyKk5HD14j4UKNmCTRytpU69Asa-dP8h687L2-dyTp1OVeOybhBX-8fwlAfgiZwI/s320/20230719_154141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY-rXncWm4e8fsik5zmi3tLRtsN-VCU7ZTuWjh8jZDtr5zSMV6tKnW5orCNIqA1vyYGJt3RLCpP0gqr4Sph_D7bLWWBAnLQE_fDmfEOl_qc1ijUIoassfoRsWfxTS3hEvFWMB-PzqdCaZxjcBwxLtmtByT_UR2ioHPKyg2O33rjM8BJM0YojV8DjRq998/s979/20230719_154212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY-rXncWm4e8fsik5zmi3tLRtsN-VCU7ZTuWjh8jZDtr5zSMV6tKnW5orCNIqA1vyYGJt3RLCpP0gqr4Sph_D7bLWWBAnLQE_fDmfEOl_qc1ijUIoassfoRsWfxTS3hEvFWMB-PzqdCaZxjcBwxLtmtByT_UR2ioHPKyg2O33rjM8BJM0YojV8DjRq998/s320/20230719_154212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkB8YAzEIFVmSMVqrfmmG7us-yFvkoj0Yc1g8uBZj_KCuGo9DY_LxBiQ_l8XM9HpoY0MOr5IgvQt7RiajPT_iNPiNUsZrDY4_8-USsLvh9mBh3j9p8QZGP8ejKYDfrTeqQZuzd7r31zGiXem15hNXvly6Wn97ZSWMs22EDqOMybo-PEupUs0Yy1CEhVXs/s1209/20230719_155422.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkB8YAzEIFVmSMVqrfmmG7us-yFvkoj0Yc1g8uBZj_KCuGo9DY_LxBiQ_l8XM9HpoY0MOr5IgvQt7RiajPT_iNPiNUsZrDY4_8-USsLvh9mBh3j9p8QZGP8ejKYDfrTeqQZuzd7r31zGiXem15hNXvly6Wn97ZSWMs22EDqOMybo-PEupUs0Yy1CEhVXs/s320/20230719_155422.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non siamo andati a visitare la nota Sima de las cotorras, una profonda dolina di sprofondamento carsico dove vivono migliaia di pappagalli, che si muovono a nuvole verdi. Ma ne vediamo tanti anche qui, oltre a centinaia di aironi bianchi appollaiati sugli alberi e pronti per la notte. Una cosa mai vista!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZndgdOsBQ3yUBTshJ8umWDpqRzoHq2X0t8e7BF_NfKmCHN0MMB_iPBrkvf3j4J_Dazbpj1_DkgA1v7i4cetJFx4gXjXCHVx4TaWffsFotR33cwDsNMEPnDuGNmnQukbWkVyGbjLyB9J281c-LvF0GVIFaEzaJ42t-ZFhDM0mbhk2AvYyUt-362Vh_yEc/s1209/20230719_164847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZndgdOsBQ3yUBTshJ8umWDpqRzoHq2X0t8e7BF_NfKmCHN0MMB_iPBrkvf3j4J_Dazbpj1_DkgA1v7i4cetJFx4gXjXCHVx4TaWffsFotR33cwDsNMEPnDuGNmnQukbWkVyGbjLyB9J281c-LvF0GVIFaEzaJ42t-ZFhDM0mbhk2AvYyUt-362Vh_yEc/s320/20230719_164847.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGFmYBYQJPdiGKWnxEJ0M6HHt5tj158Zh5a0EeAsRFdl9bIx8aqnBb4Ko7a3aFQ24GjnFZgrWXStl53S3MiEO_1s1FCP7uL5U14RNJmUTrTCwxPHzgTKFUSZjWD-6yBAPRGMndpdICLWfyT77HQwDXPMbjlbX4w0g1YnYATVtepsfozU17905Ds8oowo/s1209/20230719_164859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGFmYBYQJPdiGKWnxEJ0M6HHt5tj158Zh5a0EeAsRFdl9bIx8aqnBb4Ko7a3aFQ24GjnFZgrWXStl53S3MiEO_1s1FCP7uL5U14RNJmUTrTCwxPHzgTKFUSZjWD-6yBAPRGMndpdICLWfyT77HQwDXPMbjlbX4w0g1YnYATVtepsfozU17905Ds8oowo/s320/20230719_164859.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ancora qualche faticoso saliscendi controvento e raggiungiamo la meta di oggi Cintalapa de Figueroa. Cintalapa è parola nahuatl che significa "acqua che scorre sottoterra". Qui vissero prima gli olmechi, poi i toltechi, poi gli zoque. Oggi è un vivace, vagamente degradato, centro urbano con un buon numero di sevizi e una piacevole piazza centrale.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvRpicZ76LKF3bqzf1qBOb1gJDUu-LXfkBjveAP-ZzX4zul_96LOxKThTgyx-NCdd5cb4Quuz9BS1WcMDQ7gf4gP6-IQbyB6iukCrlSdkOx3xl9rPw5gKFu2WmZhvmBfhmiLyfJp0hxu_tD4dVqoLPptproynjFxUugDCjXlbT6uTd7fblzO_2HKtMjs/s1209/20230719_165150.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvRpicZ76LKF3bqzf1qBOb1gJDUu-LXfkBjveAP-ZzX4zul_96LOxKThTgyx-NCdd5cb4Quuz9BS1WcMDQ7gf4gP6-IQbyB6iukCrlSdkOx3xl9rPw5gKFu2WmZhvmBfhmiLyfJp0hxu_tD4dVqoLPptproynjFxUugDCjXlbT6uTd7fblzO_2HKtMjs/s320/20230719_165150.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ieri abbiamo controllato la presenza di strutture e, escluse quelle di "lusso" e quelle proprio da colera in doccia, abbiamo individuato l'hotel maya, il meno roncio tra quelli ronci. Schivate le buche de le cotorre che si aprono a voragine sulla strada e i perri mali che cercano di azzannarci nei quartieri non migliori della città, raggiungiamo l'albergo. 270 pesos (13.5 euro) la doppia, con acqua, tè e caffè disponibili gratis 24 ore. Andata. Abbiamo anche l'onore di fare due chiacchiere la tia cucaracha! E un terrazzo con vista sul centro (dotato comunque di pregevole salottino). Un affare!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNp6pY2oyMGtjplxwgcXx7DRI821J5bYmIrZKOS_8r-oQQNLXtgvM_Q9NNnZXy80h-Yr5tBkzPKiKfxPdwBoTdJjpvGHZXmNchFUgQhhwEn-d3VdttnmNY_b8CE7i62eaZ2s4fmypaeTMzKzaBB5ZuEFpAmrkLWjEiRfoI7HlhqSK6HJ2dbqT32XUSP4g/s1209/20230719_180843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNp6pY2oyMGtjplxwgcXx7DRI821J5bYmIrZKOS_8r-oQQNLXtgvM_Q9NNnZXy80h-Yr5tBkzPKiKfxPdwBoTdJjpvGHZXmNchFUgQhhwEn-d3VdttnmNY_b8CE7i62eaZ2s4fmypaeTMzKzaBB5ZuEFpAmrkLWjEiRfoI7HlhqSK6HJ2dbqT32XUSP4g/s320/20230719_180843.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUDre3LzI6e0NmR4qy7W3NfKKz9YgCwhtfpcxBskjmUR-fNkasrcfOc679oq8hKsBca1zGQAK-0AAQqsoxG6LHzSSSnKVe64LGD8GJv-Mtm7ZXBosEFbQMTdimGuvI12ByBImVgpTu4zc_WMk7XxJPq13DE3bne7-8zg8llUI3dG-KYZwnwjXhzWKtwM/s1209/20230719_185647.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUDre3LzI6e0NmR4qy7W3NfKKz9YgCwhtfpcxBskjmUR-fNkasrcfOc679oq8hKsBca1zGQAK-0AAQqsoxG6LHzSSSnKVe64LGD8GJv-Mtm7ZXBosEFbQMTdimGuvI12ByBImVgpTu4zc_WMk7XxJPq13DE3bne7-8zg8llUI3dG-KYZwnwjXhzWKtwM/s320/20230719_185647.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuLdJ7IE-JRacj7OHETBsiUWa4ci_Cc5CKsLsQe6qSSRVr6AA1f_KMNIqGJkQ9SHzUc0sBZwy1jUSg3cY99foi_JyPB2HuDaeGm1hO1u65a4sVwX5hyH95oau4nQ9fccKPwXejymMf7PXlb_e6a1gIBSLlGsb7MJPLH3rpbtnZvMvxeaK-uwHpjNY5luA/s979/20230719_185708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuLdJ7IE-JRacj7OHETBsiUWa4ci_Cc5CKsLsQe6qSSRVr6AA1f_KMNIqGJkQ9SHzUc0sBZwy1jUSg3cY99foi_JyPB2HuDaeGm1hO1u65a4sVwX5hyH95oau4nQ9fccKPwXejymMf7PXlb_e6a1gIBSLlGsb7MJPLH3rpbtnZvMvxeaK-uwHpjNY5luA/s320/20230719_185708.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3hAVGTl90Zjhit7KaTdZLRYtFVvVwyqbNsHww0AX26h5ALQ2sfyeKBa8fRTAN-LbAtU3wXStVdSHapfwxdP543zyMbNS1v5Pp_i3D3ZQ4sFQcZCC0JfiW1k4h6oIozdYduLUsAPOBBvIKtN4a6L9ZonCuH3Yfn1vG1mUMgPF5HHAj8K4sOkTZAfUrWDY/s1209/20230719_185827.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3hAVGTl90Zjhit7KaTdZLRYtFVvVwyqbNsHww0AX26h5ALQ2sfyeKBa8fRTAN-LbAtU3wXStVdSHapfwxdP543zyMbNS1v5Pp_i3D3ZQ4sFQcZCC0JfiW1k4h6oIozdYduLUsAPOBBvIKtN4a6L9ZonCuH3Yfn1vG1mUMgPF5HHAj8K4sOkTZAfUrWDY/s320/20230719_185827.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj04tUqPcz7H6RfWXv0fLegR4N3c5x4feGUT54AD0BlsRwPsX_U-wzoJc8lMzyBaW0CjmzlX9V4m0Pn9D8g2Y8tgVUNgWhPWadKhubwmV6uF1Vdd9KAMT_m4tdPwP5dRw7hcwip41qWQT2thMdRHzmtqMWSRmQ5r9tFGr-xGWZ1AfO6biJNid8WxndZLyY/s1209/20230719_185839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj04tUqPcz7H6RfWXv0fLegR4N3c5x4feGUT54AD0BlsRwPsX_U-wzoJc8lMzyBaW0CjmzlX9V4m0Pn9D8g2Y8tgVUNgWhPWadKhubwmV6uF1Vdd9KAMT_m4tdPwP5dRw7hcwip41qWQT2thMdRHzmtqMWSRmQ5r9tFGr-xGWZ1AfO6biJNid8WxndZLyY/s320/20230719_185839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Anche oggi decidiamo di non cenare fuori, per cui andiamo a fare la spesa e allunghiamo la passeggiata serale (ora c'è una brezza fresca meravigliosa) fino alla piazza, che è animata e allegra di ragazzini che giocano a palla e famiglie che mangiano un gelato o mais bollito. Immancabile la chiesa, con funzione in corso e campanile strobo che cambia colore ogni attimo, rischiando di innescare crisi epilettiche.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQLxlF8nmwTP9Uc1aVyWn-vUXiFyPLcTDJUXG2GQQScrtBVvWSHZjhmJrtSs5GEtf-1ScewzMe8LsZDKOqPn4KH7CVYjRDmqoXLCf5aTrX4c091xfILsfyiGdlsAZCVh0EnRUlmz8-b-vAYftBBjPmbk0mg5rImFPCzWlu7UW1FnFFHcJXfZ2muv1LndU/s1209/20230719_190523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQLxlF8nmwTP9Uc1aVyWn-vUXiFyPLcTDJUXG2GQQScrtBVvWSHZjhmJrtSs5GEtf-1ScewzMe8LsZDKOqPn4KH7CVYjRDmqoXLCf5aTrX4c091xfILsfyiGdlsAZCVh0EnRUlmz8-b-vAYftBBjPmbk0mg5rImFPCzWlu7UW1FnFFHcJXfZ2muv1LndU/s320/20230719_190523.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TG7Z9gerMCdt0-rv2ID734Pay1z5g1_1jCJBHDQEWESmsZduF4Z8CD8qz17H8mgfo0_6csQrUmmrik3DDblZbYGQcfvpdDnD3HPNA17pgI9CGqOA0CaBRv0XbMc3NOYVQ5EjFi6Ti3ViyyuQ7fm_spgJ0TmQ_0JgPzNxlSd3zmdOmmxvIn0WvSs43Pk/s1209/20230719_190528.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TG7Z9gerMCdt0-rv2ID734Pay1z5g1_1jCJBHDQEWESmsZduF4Z8CD8qz17H8mgfo0_6csQrUmmrik3DDblZbYGQcfvpdDnD3HPNA17pgI9CGqOA0CaBRv0XbMc3NOYVQ5EjFi6Ti3ViyyuQ7fm_spgJ0TmQ_0JgPzNxlSd3zmdOmmxvIn0WvSs43Pk/s320/20230719_190528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_jhpR6quKL0S0jC5XN39AR5cYe6sQuecrH-JWmEAuRLWwwJBFLMWu2q7JmzHBttyWnBg23oMauVV8JDC0QSmk0cT32CfAhO8nd0M_7IZwcuVin6F5ToQ186EF4CKO7F9zG7qr6AHDDMIBZs02y0w26Y6ODUVI6N2lKPCtGEWfccLzOsGIk112Y03N814/s1209/20230719_190627.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_jhpR6quKL0S0jC5XN39AR5cYe6sQuecrH-JWmEAuRLWwwJBFLMWu2q7JmzHBttyWnBg23oMauVV8JDC0QSmk0cT32CfAhO8nd0M_7IZwcuVin6F5ToQ186EF4CKO7F9zG7qr6AHDDMIBZs02y0w26Y6ODUVI6N2lKPCtGEWfccLzOsGIk112Y03N814/s320/20230719_190627.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7M9wmisOO0ZDgE816QLzicu_hcSIx0S4qPn5Mn7JZfgauaUFa8J4S-_rDbAZ9Dxei5EQdLZjiy4syql-8i8NM-3TUal6LMvyuqBDxsPYPiDYxKiGDSYb4UkkZwEwVAdAilAyvdMnNMVOVNJ6svEjHzF96HR3GpRX8SHc67HAIWEmUUL-wFtXGvh3zWYg/s1209/20230719_190648.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7M9wmisOO0ZDgE816QLzicu_hcSIx0S4qPn5Mn7JZfgauaUFa8J4S-_rDbAZ9Dxei5EQdLZjiy4syql-8i8NM-3TUal6LMvyuqBDxsPYPiDYxKiGDSYb4UkkZwEwVAdAilAyvdMnNMVOVNJ6svEjHzF96HR3GpRX8SHc67HAIWEmUUL-wFtXGvh3zWYg/s320/20230719_190648.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTSYo1RFbTNCyt7UtZDwUnm84kJGcUiaq6GgrLwa6K2zs6SleDJIRTq7daoepIZzQC33RA1wOZkp5hZzXIQ22v3CET3ewhyW1X3HO6YcuhZ8r7oi7jsHY3Cdig7peXVVLAnfMpt7U-c4_yq37_kFk7FqWVmOjH7UcoWIEOLgPqBVAzXh_zlPjrws087oY/s1209/20230719_190717.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTSYo1RFbTNCyt7UtZDwUnm84kJGcUiaq6GgrLwa6K2zs6SleDJIRTq7daoepIZzQC33RA1wOZkp5hZzXIQ22v3CET3ewhyW1X3HO6YcuhZ8r7oi7jsHY3Cdig7peXVVLAnfMpt7U-c4_yq37_kFk7FqWVmOjH7UcoWIEOLgPqBVAzXh_zlPjrws087oY/s320/20230719_190717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Domani lasceremo il Chiapas. Un po' mi dispiace, perchè finora è lo stato dove più mi sono confrantata con la diversità, dove più ho imparato, visto, conosciuto, esperito il nuovo. Ma l'Oaxaca, dove stiamo per entrare, potrebbe anche eguagliarlo, in questo senso. E' terra di fiere popolazioni indigene. Di coste dalla sabbia immacolata ma pure montagne austere e foreste nebulari d'altura. Ci sono i siti archeologici, la cucina regionale che è un'arte, i musei, e soprattutto le persone. Oaxaca, stiamo arrivando!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">20/7</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cintalapa de Figueroa - Santo Domingo Zanatepec</div><div style="text-align: justify;">104km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Si dorme poco: fa caldo, il ventilatore pare un'astronave in decollo dal rumore che fa e ho la netta sensazione che alcune cucarachas o loro stretti parenti ci solletichino i piedi e le orecchie con le loro antennine vibranti. Poco male, approfittiamo delle ore fresche del mattino per portarci avanti con la tappa. Ma prima approfittiamo di tè e caffè gratuitamente offerti dal Maya hotel, che ci consente anche di riempire le borracce dal boccione di acqua potabile (nemmeno i locals bevono l'acqua del rubinetto...). </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMt3l7nI79vviX6Q2KYNPoixbJ3WdwpNDw5-UMfzavW4dZfqcXr2F8GUk4k7QwuLS-ziLbPhARrNnQ72x0318-WuiSHWvPJ2Z2hwm3L0s2Aa6lpAz3llYx0gn-9ql8QOQ_kfNkPO-1cXPvwnMH_pJQow6GDy4O-FMWdExwGj0gyxSzXP0qSqUoIGQr54Q/s1209/20230720_083806.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMt3l7nI79vviX6Q2KYNPoixbJ3WdwpNDw5-UMfzavW4dZfqcXr2F8GUk4k7QwuLS-ziLbPhARrNnQ72x0318-WuiSHWvPJ2Z2hwm3L0s2Aa6lpAz3llYx0gn-9ql8QOQ_kfNkPO-1cXPvwnMH_pJQow6GDy4O-FMWdExwGj0gyxSzXP0qSqUoIGQr54Q/s320/20230720_083806.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Pronti, via. Torniamo sullo stradone attraversando il cuore di Cintalapa, che si sta ancora svegliando. Inizia quindi un tratto piacevolissimo esteticamente, anche se un po' tagliagambe, di colline arruffate dal vento, verdi di foglie nuove che brillano al sole. </div><div>La strada corre dritta e ad ogni scollinamento la si vede intera srotolarsi a gobbe fino a dove lo sguardo si spinge. L'aria è fresca e limpida, il traffico assente. Vediamo solo passare un paio di carri di legno, con le ruote grandi, trainate da coppie di buoi gobbuti. Intorno restano a vegliare i valloni le sagome scure dei monti, le ultime propaggini della Sierra Madre quasi azzurre, quasi cielo.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNH2H_XPtVtM42sGnU034u5Xbz4KyoIe5_cBKTtRxPl1dlOxqp9VKWPd1aYI3WUr4JOlgeF7jnLShmBF41A4ibqOg_CFEZVboz88jJnnKXyejhoSeyVt7BnNlbzkvwosq4D0umX2mOJ9XnfQDEw1aHkmIYLJhglmttmhvSZ5AxVMNS1r19M8CxOW7qObc/s1209/20230720_092820.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNH2H_XPtVtM42sGnU034u5Xbz4KyoIe5_cBKTtRxPl1dlOxqp9VKWPd1aYI3WUr4JOlgeF7jnLShmBF41A4ibqOg_CFEZVboz88jJnnKXyejhoSeyVt7BnNlbzkvwosq4D0umX2mOJ9XnfQDEw1aHkmIYLJhglmttmhvSZ5AxVMNS1r19M8CxOW7qObc/s320/20230720_092820.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vudTuk6Od3W8NDb4SREpDMpeiAS1dUmT8B3n8IWMc2pI3diz8jqVOvA9yEYRiY-o6BwR-OUX6yfPeeOi1bWTWzFADFj0ITPISD-3fec4LPumSsjcMqpy4pNJBsiWbPOQetGB4Ghq3vCJf8fiqOn6tcQ5aBnEiL0mf0T1BafLkn_pwkMwqwtT1yfhfVc/s320/20230720_101047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Di pueblos veri e propri, a parte Lazaro Cardenas, non se ne trovano. Solo case sparse, ranchos, qua e là, una quinta o una finca.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDNbYymr1gSmynsVz3IvJyb0II_PpT2qhvrgjLl4T5eu3aROnWhnWU1eI8sSU4A50N2jneYOiBNoiWiITYj-t07MZK3xb93TzgONoqAKaKtCxi5vXBQydL6wN7IlGhhg5GXV_j7TLZTMO2aaCYF4-x19u7bMhGhXRujUiBsJZ9wfubectf1GcGPM6sbq0/s1209/20230720_103041.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDNbYymr1gSmynsVz3IvJyb0II_PpT2qhvrgjLl4T5eu3aROnWhnWU1eI8sSU4A50N2jneYOiBNoiWiITYj-t07MZK3xb93TzgONoqAKaKtCxi5vXBQydL6wN7IlGhhg5GXV_j7TLZTMO2aaCYF4-x19u7bMhGhXRujUiBsJZ9wfubectf1GcGPM6sbq0/s320/20230720_103041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDyq3C6eYisDxXZb_tHASwtdbrhBWqhOXsrOW0gWuHIrstbjC8OyyGMDJ-OtUDJsaxcA-aVpV7EktyC7RQeVSkthxL3ETkccq7Evq7c0qfD1JGOTVacqwiU7Jq1E97pd6TEka8hXtTHXkLLI856XbQLauN_ofkNVEQ5JouejlY6UTy_ceN6a4sAJI3BIQ/s1209/20230720_103044.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZDE79izZKWJ9Jdyj-glOZIjBIghZfv3htsfre8LihC_DKyWiQG66weZe0B-XmvIHc2W3mSrgowkIGIVxskY_RtxS6dRLUgajlFVm6Vr5657TYXheg3LOI_9NClC9EO4hRrQ-w8IrckoUxqpuPUueSN5Fmg4iMd7hnrD5rQtUokGt8g2ajcPraTvPPK5Y/s1209/20230720_105600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZDE79izZKWJ9Jdyj-glOZIjBIghZfv3htsfre8LihC_DKyWiQG66weZe0B-XmvIHc2W3mSrgowkIGIVxskY_RtxS6dRLUgajlFVm6Vr5657TYXheg3LOI_9NClC9EO4hRrQ-w8IrckoUxqpuPUueSN5Fmg4iMd7hnrD5rQtUokGt8g2ajcPraTvPPK5Y/s320/20230720_105600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo circa 40km di colline dolci e di panorami addomesticati, se pur di natura evidentemente selvaggia e libera, iniziamo ad arrampicarci sull'unico e ultimo ordine di alture di oggi, che sono una sorta di balconata con affaccio alla costa, e all'istmo che qui separa le acque del Pacifico dalle placide lagune interne. La salita è breve ma impegnativa per le mie zampine affaticate dalle tappe scorse. Stiamo accumulando dislivello, e non eravamo abituati, dopo le grandi pianure della penisola yucateca. Bene così, è tutto allenamento per quando, con le montagne, faremo sul serio, a breve. Affrontiamo le rampe chini, schiacciati fisicamente dal sole che ora sì, si è fatto rovente. Intorno a noi gli avvoltoi volano bassi e fanno pichiate incredibili, forse scambiando i caschetti per tartarughe o altre prede. A proposito di tartarughe: ne vediamo tante, purtroppo molte, anche enormi, spiaccicate dalle auto. Idem per i rospi giganti, stirati e stampati e sull'asfalto. Sono grossi come i miei gatti!</div><div><br /></div><div>La scalata viene interrotta da un controllo agropecuario, con tanto di posto di blocco dei policia. Qui ce ne sono di frequenti, vista la vocazione della zona. Cosa controllino esattamente, non lo so. Cosa controllino a noi, tanto meno. Certo è che i cani randagi che bazzicano intorno ci inseguono per il sollazzo degli agenti, mannaggiaalloro.</div><div><br /></div><div>In ogni caso veniamo considerati bestie sane e passiamo. Ancora un po' di salita e ci troviamo a Rosendo Salazar, pueblo che sorge sulle rive di un lago che specchia l'argento del cielo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Qs_r-An-b9oUf1k3ammBxZKsKxrfDdNdRsSO_3627-g8NA8yn2Y910POyBUwZmsd5NLx5oVK3XBtZ53iRqlWAMAnNrx_xKr4r2XTNFdxRKK_Lfky-h8hMj3fkboVw0xtX0Yg98YlcL6r-7lmo7WhDcSy85YMF8KefWCBQ-Sj_yoJUFcOZEgeR_itRAw/s1209/20230720_110451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Qs_r-An-b9oUf1k3ammBxZKsKxrfDdNdRsSO_3627-g8NA8yn2Y910POyBUwZmsd5NLx5oVK3XBtZ53iRqlWAMAnNrx_xKr4r2XTNFdxRKK_Lfky-h8hMj3fkboVw0xtX0Yg98YlcL6r-7lmo7WhDcSy85YMF8KefWCBQ-Sj_yoJUFcOZEgeR_itRAw/s320/20230720_110451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNzonQjiDiF1e-Cq5jwt7I8DHZs0zCzunyJEsfwazeO5UVZH21Y3xa18CBxcXS7czURgejhnb-6kNju0M8ebmHfaD_yMcQG7U-PUlNvjMQcb_Gspk6u1M52vITIMZKZzeJxoHZgULL7DOUjnrTg04A3yPWy504qP0_oqphFd_pSrtPC7q0Gh7T0-5zL8/s1209/20230720_111437.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJNzonQjiDiF1e-Cq5jwt7I8DHZs0zCzunyJEsfwazeO5UVZH21Y3xa18CBxcXS7czURgejhnb-6kNju0M8ebmHfaD_yMcQG7U-PUlNvjMQcb_Gspk6u1M52vITIMZKZzeJxoHZgULL7DOUjnrTg04A3yPWy504qP0_oqphFd_pSrtPC7q0Gh7T0-5zL8/s320/20230720_111437.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgY34GBEHgnRwFbmg93MdM15PY0-FQ37OpmLUiC5fpdwsKpWM6CY8WuWpRrmYmBqjeR0DxAeDOsNiyIiKRaBs2U7xrzgi09_6ifdygGHqCwQ3vrKvuJnqQ8HWvyDHoTAdkxtCqAAB8BlkXgDnXHPYT4sVWsTCmdbxy-JrUK25yISzp8oedYkpfwn5jlsI/s1209/20230720_111447.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgY34GBEHgnRwFbmg93MdM15PY0-FQ37OpmLUiC5fpdwsKpWM6CY8WuWpRrmYmBqjeR0DxAeDOsNiyIiKRaBs2U7xrzgi09_6ifdygGHqCwQ3vrKvuJnqQ8HWvyDHoTAdkxtCqAAB8BlkXgDnXHPYT4sVWsTCmdbxy-JrUK25yISzp8oedYkpfwn5jlsI/s320/20230720_111447.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQXqm91-RLtFw5fsrbkQ2DS31r0P6qGJ04Vj5G9sKligXzJ8PnALE8rXbG-dQyr-nOzNZjy8eGvZONVcTLHRwEACIoeRHH4T0zZhw_d4G9Flprcsz-ZGnmHz2-OLjX84WhkWlisoJcyuQfmvNOW0xIyWeF5jikJVUTiYx2Z_eRk8QVRcnmbgfJNC48j_U/s1209/20230720_111538.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQXqm91-RLtFw5fsrbkQ2DS31r0P6qGJ04Vj5G9sKligXzJ8PnALE8rXbG-dQyr-nOzNZjy8eGvZONVcTLHRwEACIoeRHH4T0zZhw_d4G9Flprcsz-ZGnmHz2-OLjX84WhkWlisoJcyuQfmvNOW0xIyWeF5jikJVUTiYx2Z_eRk8QVRcnmbgfJNC48j_U/s320/20230720_111538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>L'ascesa è tutt'altro che finita, ma più si sale meno le pendenze sono bastarde. Riusciamo a distendere un po' la schiena, ad alzare lo sguardo, a goderci la bellezza che fa da sfondo al nostro incedere lento.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjvNtVjWWxx9nC1K4BHun3UYtwG2Wi1gp51FycGBnIoAzjiu1sEYjrN1_3lw1VswGPUK6iAfYKSdVXagXnXDLJZurPCnfjGyCc_5AwhM8cnVRVpBykox8bK3qQbA0fWbkQCsJG8t3kmubK6xDRS4NXiCdb3q6hXoIuwNVOy6O5SeFyJjFeeSMxuq5pb8k/s1209/20230720_113328.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjvNtVjWWxx9nC1K4BHun3UYtwG2Wi1gp51FycGBnIoAzjiu1sEYjrN1_3lw1VswGPUK6iAfYKSdVXagXnXDLJZurPCnfjGyCc_5AwhM8cnVRVpBykox8bK3qQbA0fWbkQCsJG8t3kmubK6xDRS4NXiCdb3q6hXoIuwNVOy6O5SeFyJjFeeSMxuq5pb8k/s320/20230720_113328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRsrJQA7spYNxf55DxnSg_sO-WuO_llFoPPmhsi2oMFMB4kmm1t7mh6rjk2ART1U3el-tMxpyI9ZretApx-y2ygJw_TG6laWEe0EioPldWe3rm3KYIyPIZxomfqJjyv7zU7iaSGCawQ8DR-GTzoxHi4aCt-_K2HQKvIE9I9ciE6smmPw1bwC4g7uCavc/s1209/20230720_115525.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaRsrJQA7spYNxf55DxnSg_sO-WuO_llFoPPmhsi2oMFMB4kmm1t7mh6rjk2ART1U3el-tMxpyI9ZretApx-y2ygJw_TG6laWEe0EioPldWe3rm3KYIyPIZxomfqJjyv7zU7iaSGCawQ8DR-GTzoxHi4aCt-_K2HQKvIE9I9ciE6smmPw1bwC4g7uCavc/s320/20230720_115525.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mODnqilkSlSKuCt3B2DUHABMVz0XXqd5DFXJfWD4crwrZnMWbHBBzH6bXHZenLaB1a6aOkLnfI6kKGWrtbHdgeQxfgnxjfZUg5QZCnDUF3yFiB0KS3ZzgXwpO0W9U6pK_Yf-xzT1BKTBW6nMiM11Yc0ondKFFut9Rj3HFaLj_pZzzfblv_s4cCVi10A/s1209/20230720_115527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mODnqilkSlSKuCt3B2DUHABMVz0XXqd5DFXJfWD4crwrZnMWbHBBzH6bXHZenLaB1a6aOkLnfI6kKGWrtbHdgeQxfgnxjfZUg5QZCnDUF3yFiB0KS3ZzgXwpO0W9U6pK_Yf-xzT1BKTBW6nMiM11Yc0ondKFFut9Rj3HFaLj_pZzzfblv_s4cCVi10A/s320/20230720_115527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vBhhQ6j0NjyZxGUgONjE_O70ii8Cluq9Zs2VS9mkxNWjwqJQv4_KC8nPSuZA6GbS251LhiV7zZmmdKDZeCVU3ToD2Bs3vjYTnK0pyT-y7xY81omBAP69E4fFssGWqKSh6GRyG7CCAOCVTprHXOmlDXdXw51JS4gPqSsNFbUByAA98SQ6D09LjZMcMnc/s1209/20230720_115536.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vBhhQ6j0NjyZxGUgONjE_O70ii8Cluq9Zs2VS9mkxNWjwqJQv4_KC8nPSuZA6GbS251LhiV7zZmmdKDZeCVU3ToD2Bs3vjYTnK0pyT-y7xY81omBAP69E4fFssGWqKSh6GRyG7CCAOCVTprHXOmlDXdXw51JS4gPqSsNFbUByAA98SQ6D09LjZMcMnc/s320/20230720_115536.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhk9mrwDLO_PMjOUSx2AhmIU0N20docxdCp7_RhDy6Xa8jtvdVAle2I1CbS4ld96_JgzL2gS8vDzW9Z7j2qEMRLe8nh0DFcO0d9PxGkihZGYwTk7meC0WNLMXgIFUkR9KqYDOCUoB93KKQImjGCIYr-XCOZYshAd3VrIEpKzkgg3M_v45mMMQsk3HYK0/s1209/20230720_115859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhk9mrwDLO_PMjOUSx2AhmIU0N20docxdCp7_RhDy6Xa8jtvdVAle2I1CbS4ld96_JgzL2gS8vDzW9Z7j2qEMRLe8nh0DFcO0d9PxGkihZGYwTk7meC0WNLMXgIFUkR9KqYDOCUoB93KKQImjGCIYr-XCOZYshAd3VrIEpKzkgg3M_v45mMMQsk3HYK0/s320/20230720_115859.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmI9ZihhhMbcJAq1dBcHXBnpDe2OIPi9ebKQJaPUqeCX4Xi5rIQcgkt86aiZmLZJ8O8KXfVl6HUJ-V7VzFTVSDgSigO8fNuLLp8NnpVhnBYJAr9TayN2JOVqnsR-mYmLGl287x8h2BlIVVRVv5uIruYrT2RgLEH9JVVp0KjWee6AiqoMkHQfkHd5wCho/s1209/20230720_115910.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmI9ZihhhMbcJAq1dBcHXBnpDe2OIPi9ebKQJaPUqeCX4Xi5rIQcgkt86aiZmLZJ8O8KXfVl6HUJ-V7VzFTVSDgSigO8fNuLLp8NnpVhnBYJAr9TayN2JOVqnsR-mYmLGl287x8h2BlIVVRVv5uIruYrT2RgLEH9JVVp0KjWee6AiqoMkHQfkHd5wCho/s320/20230720_115910.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Madidi di sudore e bolliti, raggiungiamo finalmente il passo che ci permette di riprendere fiato. Facciamo anche una sosta nella cittadina che occupa la pima parte della discesa, che ha un nome che è tutto un programma: Nueva Tenochtitlan. Compriamo della frutta nell'unica tienda del paese, e solo dopo ci accorgiamo che quell'odore dolciastro e le mosche sono conseguenza delle carnicce appese al sole fuori dal negozio. C'è gran via vai e siamo sorvegliati speciali, quindi, per non sentirci freaks del circo, ci spostiamo a fa pausa alla fine del pueblo, sotto alle chiome di un albero antico le cui radici formano una panchina naturale. Anche qui siamo oggetto di attenzioni, ma non negative. Sono più saluti e grida di incitamento. Però, stanchi come siamo, preferiamo per ora la compagnia delle numerose galline e del galletto che ci razzolano intorno.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW6BcA39Xq9GMIwsf5dY0zwvsmJ-i4AwyuVLtHN5RUalNCUzs1L_rl5NkbtXecS0DC7lHU0ahhM-wD0sWuF5uQXR7G8DVwRTpbL31_tVqrYANnpyIPXVty5g1t-MxK3KtATq5IZobHNMgKMIQlEtYWd7W4LOSdU69aOXpy7ZfpoAwFUxTX1sBcBkmYLPc/s1209/20230720_121540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW6BcA39Xq9GMIwsf5dY0zwvsmJ-i4AwyuVLtHN5RUalNCUzs1L_rl5NkbtXecS0DC7lHU0ahhM-wD0sWuF5uQXR7G8DVwRTpbL31_tVqrYANnpyIPXVty5g1t-MxK3KtATq5IZobHNMgKMIQlEtYWd7W4LOSdU69aOXpy7ZfpoAwFUxTX1sBcBkmYLPc/s320/20230720_121540.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-qakabdOY1Tgu9cl5n4LaHCNlGU1Ka9_cz-tm3iPfJm5najusUJqDaZu8Oxahz8dlIRU3AkkP6TEHbbvCeT6eA3MX5kphNav8D4sGDiAmewVOnS5HjpCGnfKiS2CNXaIT4i1-70Gb_Xea4D1APSR4Rs8Ew9MPW0xG_to-cNHpYD9j5WcCY51_2L-qn0/s1209/20230720_121546.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-qakabdOY1Tgu9cl5n4LaHCNlGU1Ka9_cz-tm3iPfJm5najusUJqDaZu8Oxahz8dlIRU3AkkP6TEHbbvCeT6eA3MX5kphNav8D4sGDiAmewVOnS5HjpCGnfKiS2CNXaIT4i1-70Gb_Xea4D1APSR4Rs8Ew9MPW0xG_to-cNHpYD9j5WcCY51_2L-qn0/s320/20230720_121546.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3_-z3CxJbb-48YXF71wrmqCLCzP2f2nZdKbegsp1HlkDGXp_v9Z0Z6uIgaaqyouRh77SJvrpuc2ROz7GBSBX9EzBnID66EAyCcEpIiDlpinyswWO-XHOPrBWnfUWd_ZRPGPTcdJjbYZt23RTgacy2N_xXomYK5TsfR6e-zHhN5a0itTNQj9SY2Nt4lA/s1209/20230720_122024.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu3_-z3CxJbb-48YXF71wrmqCLCzP2f2nZdKbegsp1HlkDGXp_v9Z0Z6uIgaaqyouRh77SJvrpuc2ROz7GBSBX9EzBnID66EAyCcEpIiDlpinyswWO-XHOPrBWnfUWd_ZRPGPTcdJjbYZt23RTgacy2N_xXomYK5TsfR6e-zHhN5a0itTNQj9SY2Nt4lA/s320/20230720_122024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1lZEDhc-8AQyH9ty6FqWQrlKjjIsNcofk1V-ytuTKKkTfqIjKM5oeeStKYvcCiSakgOIEwGyxl60eW2Pk0xqA9WhNbqEHTyBWIsss8OGEJF2tsO1xTdS0adsgYwmo04kkD9-ajV7rHXYKPxEMIMrXa6KKMmD0LhurfEHf2GlIaTo7_o4KJAneiovCC5w/s1209/20230720_122042.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1lZEDhc-8AQyH9ty6FqWQrlKjjIsNcofk1V-ytuTKKkTfqIjKM5oeeStKYvcCiSakgOIEwGyxl60eW2Pk0xqA9WhNbqEHTyBWIsss8OGEJF2tsO1xTdS0adsgYwmo04kkD9-ajV7rHXYKPxEMIMrXa6KKMmD0LhurfEHf2GlIaTo7_o4KJAneiovCC5w/s320/20230720_122042.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo esserci riposati le giunture e aver riportato la temperatura del corpo a livelli accettabili, ripartiamo. Da qui, per circa 20km, è tutta discesa. Da 800m di quota arriviamo a meno di 100, scendendo dalla meseta alla costa. Questo meraviglioso corridoio di vento e velocità è, oltretutto, inserito nel magnifico contesto della riserva della biosfera "La sepultura". Al di là del nome non propio benaugurante, si tratta di un paco naturale tra Chiapas e Oaxaca che unisce le foreste nebulari di collina e la costa dell'istmo, con centinaia di specie animali e vegetali protette (giaguari, ocelot, tapiri...)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8-bzMUP7X6jk5_eCvfV_pWSGM7yMndcY-FZunsmUH-Y6GQpGrvp8QvJ4FA4bzgIYRMDO7A_rvbQstBnFS8jZCUE_n8B5DGyYwHJ0NoiBJQOrYeSXTEbRmFf8KuiT-NzK4fu3TsfwBrhYhyyjx1K59cZyNgYtddPywYt9y3mnS4Pw2ZyeudzsoKR9zD8/s1209/20230720_125357.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8-bzMUP7X6jk5_eCvfV_pWSGM7yMndcY-FZunsmUH-Y6GQpGrvp8QvJ4FA4bzgIYRMDO7A_rvbQstBnFS8jZCUE_n8B5DGyYwHJ0NoiBJQOrYeSXTEbRmFf8KuiT-NzK4fu3TsfwBrhYhyyjx1K59cZyNgYtddPywYt9y3mnS4Pw2ZyeudzsoKR9zD8/s320/20230720_125357.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZRDqw0oDHDsZllKY--tW8YsPuse1IxksHo4z0gDF8gIvGxlMBSKAv0GHuPxJlcx411hNtREmvTYypR9VoNsEaVyUBM8d6SVRRXNxW7ZJ4zosiDr50kYNp2eZmaLSr-3xiRlEJc-YFosjdGLBTQye1eYeiUwaokyVkdxz0HDxUDdvCkrOvbyMaCM3HgQ/s1210/20230720_130305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZRDqw0oDHDsZllKY--tW8YsPuse1IxksHo4z0gDF8gIvGxlMBSKAv0GHuPxJlcx411hNtREmvTYypR9VoNsEaVyUBM8d6SVRRXNxW7ZJ4zosiDr50kYNp2eZmaLSr-3xiRlEJc-YFosjdGLBTQye1eYeiUwaokyVkdxz0HDxUDdvCkrOvbyMaCM3HgQ/s320/20230720_130305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQDgdsr8exzDPTBZASSlzID7Go74jjelACz8yVUFddh3Q-t0hlfUPjyf4oz4ZKMZsK-60i2-rEhwLapBFD098e0emSLpLPUT1ZeOaaycgWMlt8PZ4K8J89hbibSc8XPGH1_K1ddcNFqpofZ-A6TFUNI18WrI3mX0pqb_K7s96WpyqEykIKm_fs-2N0kHo/s1209/20230720_130355.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQDgdsr8exzDPTBZASSlzID7Go74jjelACz8yVUFddh3Q-t0hlfUPjyf4oz4ZKMZsK-60i2-rEhwLapBFD098e0emSLpLPUT1ZeOaaycgWMlt8PZ4K8J89hbibSc8XPGH1_K1ddcNFqpofZ-A6TFUNI18WrI3mX0pqb_K7s96WpyqEykIKm_fs-2N0kHo/s320/20230720_130355.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A metà della discesa, che è un tuffo nel verdelinfa, un cartello ci segnala che siamo entrati nello stato di Oaxaca. HUAHACA! Sarà bello esplorarlo, dalle spiagge di Puerto Escondido alle montagne, dall'altopiano abitato da zapotechi e mixtechi, ai siti archeologici sulle vette più impervie.</div><div>Scatta la foto di rito, ci lanciamo di nuovo in discesa. Man mano che perdiamo quota, l'aria di fa più calda. Se prima le temperature parevano alte, ora sono insopportabili. La sensazione è quella di trovarsi davanti a un forno acceso, e ciò accade nonostante in discesa si goda del vento. Ma è arroventato. L'aria lo è.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_BfGgWQglPU0VGHyTKb_2IFxR-aOzGB0RdAZKQUgbGFaLaWXxBtH1wEjd-3pKdHVteFIFplWpVWxOgaM8RXnU03JqO9eP8PHHbbjmfnviPskSJfGiGka_0i5UHlyMmdnhyrMMn-so3M5M6JWd5evWUklauypZMI_eyblXfEnO90JOa19CqfK0Rcykgo/s1209/20230720_131310.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_BfGgWQglPU0VGHyTKb_2IFxR-aOzGB0RdAZKQUgbGFaLaWXxBtH1wEjd-3pKdHVteFIFplWpVWxOgaM8RXnU03JqO9eP8PHHbbjmfnviPskSJfGiGka_0i5UHlyMmdnhyrMMn-so3M5M6JWd5evWUklauypZMI_eyblXfEnO90JOa19CqfK0Rcykgo/s320/20230720_131310.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKj2MC_57NSKc3XZf5VmxqWDqIhob_AqnicWQ0YtoYYkSwKjv7o84k197t-7WjUbQ7GH9zqX8QPb7ZWeaJxlXqSpI_N1ldBr2rNBCAY8SHHwYCtkhsoc96FIBTSR4OdowPgJ9TjcOwp78BaUXn8Iqz-FQZvLTfkzFmWwyH8N3e5tQS15QjXcs69LmzaJY/s1209/20230720_131920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKj2MC_57NSKc3XZf5VmxqWDqIhob_AqnicWQ0YtoYYkSwKjv7o84k197t-7WjUbQ7GH9zqX8QPb7ZWeaJxlXqSpI_N1ldBr2rNBCAY8SHHwYCtkhsoc96FIBTSR4OdowPgJ9TjcOwp78BaUXn8Iqz-FQZvLTfkzFmWwyH8N3e5tQS15QjXcs69LmzaJY/s320/20230720_131920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCL0U_CD9yp1X2_vPcU6YDB90dFt-l3ebqOrEX_AM3Il4Y_EST2klbx-1VLZhksKEz7qc9kl8F4atL7WF9Z_me5gk2GolOtGZwmLG19RFfazw9xpAf9U4cEx5S9WxUueOjnk-ZnWS0QCHqhHaxfjmq0OlU3XX_OYVnZBKBZ4RB_tjS6e_ynpk2ZXvhfI/s1209/20230720_131954.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCL0U_CD9yp1X2_vPcU6YDB90dFt-l3ebqOrEX_AM3Il4Y_EST2klbx-1VLZhksKEz7qc9kl8F4atL7WF9Z_me5gk2GolOtGZwmLG19RFfazw9xpAf9U4cEx5S9WxUueOjnk-ZnWS0QCHqhHaxfjmq0OlU3XX_OYVnZBKBZ4RB_tjS6e_ynpk2ZXvhfI/s320/20230720_131954.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZCYTXC4goopQXgmg--mB94ewrZYOFGprp6-Ji_KmBEEOZmd1wMXBLQfjYo7WclbDoWQaeufOysXbvzeEbXGbFl-Pgs71YyRo8hDC5RVN0-CpWhHJjwXaHI49Fus9qBLb4bj1ugRppvKf6eCLHhasPuoWXTSHCsM8-RIEnkV5UQlRJCvoXYykulLcO2SA/s320/20230720_132347.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdm5pfbPWuZlykEwwOuNzHodBdIR6Md6mDcSgN3UefgIS4UnYbphYfkPVQNNwljr9IyeGX7pXn5u4I6eWS7q9urRvNnAYkSHvB5A_Bl_8SYMkLucKGmX4Vfwraljmo_kClJ4tVWDFIUorFH9BNaEKTRLSAlRc5Ksv1ZC_j_Lhc3R1dSIoZiRO26wUuTnA/s1209/20230720_132755.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdm5pfbPWuZlykEwwOuNzHodBdIR6Md6mDcSgN3UefgIS4UnYbphYfkPVQNNwljr9IyeGX7pXn5u4I6eWS7q9urRvNnAYkSHvB5A_Bl_8SYMkLucKGmX4Vfwraljmo_kClJ4tVWDFIUorFH9BNaEKTRLSAlRc5Ksv1ZC_j_Lhc3R1dSIoZiRO26wUuTnA/s320/20230720_132755.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuctYY6DqwPRCgQVUliIoH76zkWHszpkxfMQG6kxzh8XmvJnv64LWoIGfcTyVOogD7P5v9iTGZQJMPAYJdDZdN_lEtWJM6_lWMOs0SQamlCRLHuEPqdFnl-kSkbV8MbSlkiWWm6AwP-JneinZiMGSoUivo6f7-0FAWzZ08bbB_4Vd1K4A1cUaR-R8kPA/s1209/20230720_132816.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifuctYY6DqwPRCgQVUliIoH76zkWHszpkxfMQG6kxzh8XmvJnv64LWoIGfcTyVOogD7P5v9iTGZQJMPAYJdDZdN_lEtWJM6_lWMOs0SQamlCRLHuEPqdFnl-kSkbV8MbSlkiWWm6AwP-JneinZiMGSoUivo6f7-0FAWzZ08bbB_4Vd1K4A1cUaR-R8kPA/s320/20230720_132816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Durante la discesa si vedono strappi di oceano in lontananza, azzurri e lucidi come metallo. Tra noi e il Pacifico una distesa di terre basse, verdi, selvagge. Le terre dell'istmo.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgckmgmNjcXXrcxqEECPTAw5SUwmOj4sPztrZuZ2foU9KyCM8ty9Z4hmykaAraWBo1TYxcBvG9hX6ACb_osYxL5fuVm8tv50s4GlLo24Ed8-3riNi1YQLCWirF4-M7gHBDYdCo119zcDFZWx_EWkO05vq_Iu-Dj-dRoke3IrvPRPx9tFSrEKEovKEWKf5E/s1209/20230720_133232.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgckmgmNjcXXrcxqEECPTAw5SUwmOj4sPztrZuZ2foU9KyCM8ty9Z4hmykaAraWBo1TYxcBvG9hX6ACb_osYxL5fuVm8tv50s4GlLo24Ed8-3riNi1YQLCWirF4-M7gHBDYdCo119zcDFZWx_EWkO05vq_Iu-Dj-dRoke3IrvPRPx9tFSrEKEovKEWKf5E/s320/20230720_133232.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkz8M6dInXcsA8ZDZX5JjzEMn2vuO5MFlS8F5jDiH4DCd67HCDwfxHhkClSvMHz6rv6BEpuN8_e5iN1bNtBg2Mx5Qv07s5J8VtHjP_OI5NEq2-617w-bida-Z-4oQ5zaf3zR_hwrabLWbM0NXLykGb9uSm8JPzW2bU_Ojt_-EUYs1HNjBZdhJKpoVggrE/s1209/20230720_135133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkz8M6dInXcsA8ZDZX5JjzEMn2vuO5MFlS8F5jDiH4DCd67HCDwfxHhkClSvMHz6rv6BEpuN8_e5iN1bNtBg2Mx5Qv07s5J8VtHjP_OI5NEq2-617w-bida-Z-4oQ5zaf3zR_hwrabLWbM0NXLykGb9uSm8JPzW2bU_Ojt_-EUYs1HNjBZdhJKpoVggrE/s320/20230720_135133.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfhNOq1l6_19X-dYbX_WGWvyT5UrfEgH-j_DYo-wA6XNCvr29X4R0-1-aLIogtTmLFSLGkUzN6mDLvVHrhfdInlbxPEoOy-XGA_PJqQegvNuGZQU5s3mTunb624MO1h1Mv3Iphgk_HaJzNQnVGYQmIIIMYiW0o2hrnTA_ubztOgqNLVwIIZIQ-8q_yxa0/s1209/20230720_135136.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfhNOq1l6_19X-dYbX_WGWvyT5UrfEgH-j_DYo-wA6XNCvr29X4R0-1-aLIogtTmLFSLGkUzN6mDLvVHrhfdInlbxPEoOy-XGA_PJqQegvNuGZQU5s3mTunb624MO1h1Mv3Iphgk_HaJzNQnVGYQmIIIMYiW0o2hrnTA_ubztOgqNLVwIIZIQ-8q_yxa0/s320/20230720_135136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEKZSh3vPhAljTtHLR5PKaJmaD988gV8rSwm5a2KNeDhUXHK6Wh5-2o9FnHlivi_Zv8vQAC7x2LQ3ZZM0hv7vdHaIf_kTYnRICLcFwHjMYpx9_nUAtUTDPmvmNnspXonxEMIy1FmrGRqZA7SUZZmSL4x-bWH9rc-E7kymoAG37yrjvmE3JkCdiTgwf-yc/s1209/20230720_135235.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEKZSh3vPhAljTtHLR5PKaJmaD988gV8rSwm5a2KNeDhUXHK6Wh5-2o9FnHlivi_Zv8vQAC7x2LQ3ZZM0hv7vdHaIf_kTYnRICLcFwHjMYpx9_nUAtUTDPmvmNnspXonxEMIy1FmrGRqZA7SUZZmSL4x-bWH9rc-E7kymoAG37yrjvmE3JkCdiTgwf-yc/s320/20230720_135235.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Al termine della discesissima ci troviamo catapultati a San Pedro Tapanatepec, città di contadini e pastori fondata nel 1669 ma già abitata da gente zoque, e parte del regno zapoteco di Tehuantepec (meta di domani). Qui ci fermiamo a boccheggiare, a bere qualcosa di fresco, a chiederci se un caldo così caldo e così umido sia adatto alla sopravvivenza degli esseri umani.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_k1ahblAbtuG-OaH7RL0FqG_05k7xxNlyYLXxzqiw2WVFltm4tZbaclKv6-n9XsmKpjsW_L5ozGqpdXu1xPHmPJIMsqzpQMN3jLCYnbq40ZYOiTo8urB8Kihf_uEQOLmxkDyjmcq1ZunPFWtvLHBIbBmpTav7OwaLsLa9Np0UyTIu-2cS-o95pK_pUc/s1209/20230720_135524(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_k1ahblAbtuG-OaH7RL0FqG_05k7xxNlyYLXxzqiw2WVFltm4tZbaclKv6-n9XsmKpjsW_L5ozGqpdXu1xPHmPJIMsqzpQMN3jLCYnbq40ZYOiTo8urB8Kihf_uEQOLmxkDyjmcq1ZunPFWtvLHBIbBmpTav7OwaLsLa9Np0UyTIu-2cS-o95pK_pUc/s320/20230720_135524(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ripartiamo per gli ultimi 25km, e ormai le colline sono sullo sfondo, alle spalle e intorno. La strada ha solo piccole gobbe ma corre sostanzialmente in piano. E' una graticola.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcXwdDPNvNn_FriVJpihs0M98LHu-L-dWrrUR5-o_PIYYglvSCyaMaQaJYc5EB0Z6mTd1zkNsh_ga7qIDbGUWSBe25tEgu0bQZkAMgpll_O5o9ONDz72ckbauNO-CzXyogYwfYvEicbr8WdJdB9AE8l9G7qF8MY3dta23QvuNYxWokgyuQdZLkXJQ3EA/s1209/20230720_152349.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbcXwdDPNvNn_FriVJpihs0M98LHu-L-dWrrUR5-o_PIYYglvSCyaMaQaJYc5EB0Z6mTd1zkNsh_ga7qIDbGUWSBe25tEgu0bQZkAMgpll_O5o9ONDz72ckbauNO-CzXyogYwfYvEicbr8WdJdB9AE8l9G7qF8MY3dta23QvuNYxWokgyuQdZLkXJQ3EA/s320/20230720_152349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF__24_Mm7GQ5SpbSpDQAFLX6-EcAwjMRTjoCg6Ias4xEMBjjpu6O4M5E69ks6ABvZtSmz-AHijbND-06Iu_Sht6L7WSs63Iq0dTTsXhHrvqBYIvGBYKIYGTwizGth8Td2gNHgLKaQKqKNExjKOX9OlWD-3aDz61yVMtYWm_RE8S1mzCECvvXu7sSRVy8/s1209/20230720_152903.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF__24_Mm7GQ5SpbSpDQAFLX6-EcAwjMRTjoCg6Ias4xEMBjjpu6O4M5E69ks6ABvZtSmz-AHijbND-06Iu_Sht6L7WSs63Iq0dTTsXhHrvqBYIvGBYKIYGTwizGth8Td2gNHgLKaQKqKNExjKOX9OlWD-3aDz61yVMtYWm_RE8S1mzCECvvXu7sSRVy8/s320/20230720_152903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoLl3Yd36yaExXTNygUQ7627Bge5doJmpg8hIqwTBd9v4OSP-TnZxYXrY0_FnyeHwLX1TyagxCi0Qc1wWLeVX9jxlq1bMPnNkQp3CoJPmVYgpuR1o7TlAASzJM6J4jhSu6Gg1SI-ReV1xVXt7rb5gXY1goeBfR8Cdl-l-8qO82PtLOoVeMrFbyo6-nKg8/s1209/20230720_152917.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoLl3Yd36yaExXTNygUQ7627Bge5doJmpg8hIqwTBd9v4OSP-TnZxYXrY0_FnyeHwLX1TyagxCi0Qc1wWLeVX9jxlq1bMPnNkQp3CoJPmVYgpuR1o7TlAASzJM6J4jhSu6Gg1SI-ReV1xVXt7rb5gXY1goeBfR8Cdl-l-8qO82PtLOoVeMrFbyo6-nKg8/s320/20230720_152917.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una volta a Santo Domingo Zanatepec, meta di oggi, ci troviamo a scegliere tra una struttura roncia e una roncissima. Optiamo per la pima, che si trova al margine estremo del paese, nella direzione della tappa di domani. E' un motel che presto si riempie di camionisti, dove il letto di Gigi viene assediato da migliaia di formiche normali e alate, e sul muro scorrazzano branchi di gechi diafani. Io, dopo doccia e bucato, crollo in un sonno da balordone di caldo quasi coccolone. Mi sveglio con Gigi preda degli insetti, e quindi poi è tutto un lamentare il problema alla reception, farsi dare il veleno spray, fumigare la stanza, quasi rimanerne uccisi perchè è una roba tossica più per noi che per gli insetti e via così. Si fa pure ora di cena, e stasera possiamo scegliere tra un comedor lungo la strada o un negozietto di alimentari la cui temperatura interna è di 45 gradi ora che è sera, essendo fatto di lamiere. Entrambe le opzioni paiono risky risky, ma ci buttiamo sul comedor. I due tavoli, che si trovano nel cortile della famiglia che gestisce il locale, sono sulla terra battuta, sotto a un tetto di lamiera, senza pareti, con affaccio allo stradone e grandiosa presenza di flottiglie di insetti di ogni genere, che pungono, che strisciano, che volano, che zampettano. Quando ci sediamo, la sciura viene a dirci il menu a voce, perchè i piatti tra cui scegliere sono 3: carne di manzo, di pollo o di maiale alla griglia. Optiamo per il pollo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPI-UXfnHhhYALXlTtIfUCAentDIot8FgZUEjHtGTFsH5r8D1i538oDfR2bTcbqUejqgwDf-ECxfs-xgUyLur-KM-5iUCym_026IpRKt6piy15kUansBk1wdI4YMOwtPM2xW3Qczp3JSI5AjADm4OdEBErznbZ9xaVg46VXoxeD6zhJMSfYsm1YZRZFs/s1209/20230720_192921.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPPI-UXfnHhhYALXlTtIfUCAentDIot8FgZUEjHtGTFsH5r8D1i538oDfR2bTcbqUejqgwDf-ECxfs-xgUyLur-KM-5iUCym_026IpRKt6piy15kUansBk1wdI4YMOwtPM2xW3Qczp3JSI5AjADm4OdEBErznbZ9xaVg46VXoxeD6zhJMSfYsm1YZRZFs/s320/20230720_192921.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS0fGjrScyqXMXQwZhC8Tgcpw3YrTRHsV5-O8y4PACfHzg0I-oKfuvqZfdy2EM8eJqz1yQmmiFvLlaQZ23n8FXsz0uak3NPyRrVekjE3bHoU8GGlbybiKYvaawf4FAOt6hLHaw5g2CawuBMBhfI1KDr1X253ycPHZCJqyj7zx43FZx-KUEIPtccUyabyk/s1209/20230720_193602.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS0fGjrScyqXMXQwZhC8Tgcpw3YrTRHsV5-O8y4PACfHzg0I-oKfuvqZfdy2EM8eJqz1yQmmiFvLlaQZ23n8FXsz0uak3NPyRrVekjE3bHoU8GGlbybiKYvaawf4FAOt6hLHaw5g2CawuBMBhfI1KDr1X253ycPHZCJqyj7zx43FZx-KUEIPtccUyabyk/s320/20230720_193602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlriVLnH_S2DPsAsBVBCKv0w0oU0Z8t9xzdo_u71YWpJ_z2lXG2zllEoZ4B4NuE4GjljCvLjnWTZtTfyQ7fSPju_RXOdJiUg0r4pq3Co2u52GLZqbq-CrRMYcYlq0Fvn9yP2KodvoufMGuSYqBVcy0GYjQbtdc_zjcqPUPfwHu3WhDHN-PP0uC9ghKrLg/s1209/20230720_193630.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlriVLnH_S2DPsAsBVBCKv0w0oU0Z8t9xzdo_u71YWpJ_z2lXG2zllEoZ4B4NuE4GjljCvLjnWTZtTfyQ7fSPju_RXOdJiUg0r4pq3Co2u52GLZqbq-CrRMYcYlq0Fvn9yP2KodvoufMGuSYqBVcy0GYjQbtdc_zjcqPUPfwHu3WhDHN-PP0uC9ghKrLg/s320/20230720_193630.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La signora va in cucina e inizia a tagliare, cuocere, arrostire. E in breve ci porta due piatti tanto deliziosi quanto pericolosi. Il pollo è saporitissimo e croccante, accompagnato da mole nero (del mole parleremo più avanti. Son salse complicatissime da preparare, che richiedono un'arte che si tramanda da generazioni. Sono tipiche dell'Oaxaca). Poi ci sono pomodori, cetrioli, avocado crudi. Formaggio dell'Oaxaca e, ohinoi, insalata russa con maionesina (fredda di frigo, a onor del vero, MA). Tutto accompagnato da tortillas calde e salsa piccante a piacere. Onestamente? E' tutto incredibilmente gustoso e i sapori si amalgamano perfettamente, bilanciandosi. Sembra un piatto di alta cucina. Scopriremo a breve se il peccato di gola verrà punito con gravi infezioni gastrointestinali, assolutamente plausibili vista la natura del locale, la temperatura della zona e il tipo di cibo. Insomma, è una roulette russa. Teniamo tutti gli orifizi ben serrati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bEUqcgbRgLpAsAlyi5Vm_d_7OUG8sP1SwedLqawQBdnziGs_GuTzFjit4kJBB6dFvkbtGrqZ4F0rSgY3NbE-cgVgr8uCkEaC2-b9TrRlIjo5WNwa8aQmcsCLMp4u1m1-bOw9MAje2wh9BHmLfB_mWOAxaTW_vS219icdiXfpjOdEnadF-adL5ZtEUik/s1209/20230720_195057.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bEUqcgbRgLpAsAlyi5Vm_d_7OUG8sP1SwedLqawQBdnziGs_GuTzFjit4kJBB6dFvkbtGrqZ4F0rSgY3NbE-cgVgr8uCkEaC2-b9TrRlIjo5WNwa8aQmcsCLMp4u1m1-bOw9MAje2wh9BHmLfB_mWOAxaTW_vS219icdiXfpjOdEnadF-adL5ZtEUik/s320/20230720_195057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Facciamo un giro nella tienda per procacciare la colazione di domani e scopriamo che, pure in questo remoto angolo di paese tutto sabbia e fango ci sono senzatetto (famiglie intere, probabilmente migranti che vanno a nord, con tanto di bambini e donne incinte) che dormono per strada, su stuoie e teli stesi sotto ai tettucci di paglia davanti ai negozi, ora chiusi. Pare che questa città, come le altre dell'istmo, sia particolarmente accogliente e tanti migranti decidono di fermarsi qui. Mi piacerebbe conoscere la storia di queste persone, ma credo che loro abbiano altri pensieri per la testa. Ad esempio sopravvivere e far sopravvivere la propria famiglia, almeno fino a domattina.</div><div><br /></div><div>Noi torniamo in albergo, dove la situazione è questa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmA6FiotMDRMbbbsQq38U38zQYpTwIcuMHEbMVQIhGjuIyrDIKz3q0FelroaxahUg-yk_aDyP5Kz1jU-XeIPsa29WNGJFLiM7hr3BClaEBoK1HeRY82Gj2h4dVt7drFl_PLVeJ89ZMObGo6Q9fFAStpUONfnwi4MVmaJ9Z7yv5xKdim6EXWy0Kx9IM25s/s979/20230720_203129.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmA6FiotMDRMbbbsQq38U38zQYpTwIcuMHEbMVQIhGjuIyrDIKz3q0FelroaxahUg-yk_aDyP5Kz1jU-XeIPsa29WNGJFLiM7hr3BClaEBoK1HeRY82Gj2h4dVt7drFl_PLVeJ89ZMObGo6Q9fFAStpUONfnwi4MVmaJ9Z7yv5xKdim6EXWy0Kx9IM25s/s320/20230720_203129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di dormire leggo qualche notizia riguardo alla città in cui stiamo passando la notte. C'è una leggenda che narra nel XIV secolo due giovani amanti, il figlio del re Acatanatl e la bella Teocalxochitl, si incontrassero ai margini della laguna del sole e della luna. Il principe fu però trasformato in merlo dalle ali d'oro dalla fata della laguna. Questo, nel giro di qualche anno, fece morire di tristezza la ragazza. Il re Nahuiltecpatl, per ricordare suo figlio, fece fabbricare una statua d'oro di un merlo e la pose in una grotta sacra, ma il manufatto fu rubato dagli indigeni del Chiapas, che lo nascosero tra le montagne.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Altra leggenda simile, che denota un rapporto non facilissimo tra popoli dell'Oaxaca e del Chiapas, racconta che Santo Domingo fosse città molto ricca, che addirittura prestava denaro alle altre comunità. Per testimoniare tale ricchezza, il re decise di far costruire una campana d'oro, il cui suono si poteva udire a grande distanza. I chiapanechi, invidiosi di tanto lusso, la rubarono e la gettaono sul fondo della laguna, che si chiama Zanatepec come il pueblo in ricordo del merlo d'oro sopra citato, (merlo = zanate).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Qui è anche nato tale Alberrto Ramos Semsa, che ha partecipato alle Olimpiadi di Berlino nel 1936 nella disciplina del polo, vincendo la medaglia di bronzo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Insomma, siamo in Oaxaca (HUAHACA! -Sì, lo scriverò spesso).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Qui nella regione dell'istmo, con le sue torride e umide pianure e la sua cultura zapoteca radicata fieramente. Nel 1496 gli zapotechi respinsero gli aztechi e l'istmo rimaese autonomo dall'impero di Tenochtitlan. Ancora oggi la gente è orgogliosa della propria cultura unica e delle proprie radici, pur avendo fatto della cortesia e dell'accoglienza un tratto distintivo. Le donne occupano storicamente posizioni di rilievo negli affari e nel governo. Molte fiestas, qui, prevedono la tirada de frutas: le donne, dai tetti, lanciano frutta agli uomini che sfilano nelle strade sotto!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Domani percorreremo tutti e 100 (abbondanti) i kilometri di istmo, fino a Tehuantepec. Da qui avremo accesso alle meravigliose coste sul Pacifico, meta di surfisti, cultura alternativa e amanti del mare da tutto il mondo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">21/7</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Santo Domingo Zanatepec-Tehuantepec</div><div style="text-align: justify;">108km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quelle che in apparenza dovevano essere semplici tappe di trasferimento, una parentesi tra le montagne del Chiapas e le coste candide dell'Oaxaca, si stanno invece rivelando un tuffo incredibile e inatteso in una cultura e in tradizioni di cui nemmeno sospettavo l'esistenza. Usi radicati, storia complessa, società che si muovono su binari valoriali interessantissimi. La sottile striscia dell'istmo di Tehuantepec, accanto a cui ci stiamo muovendo, è terra di donne. Donne che comandano, che deridono gli uomini e si fanno beffe della loro presunta superiorità. Donne forti, indipendenti, che vietano l'accesso agli uomini ai mercati. Vadano a lavorare i campi! Ma ora vi racconto con ordine. Intanto siamo allo scadere del primo mese di viaggio, abbiamo pedalato circa 1200km e la tabella di marcia, pur con qualche necessario adattamento, è finora rispettata.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Stamattina ci siamo svegliati presto. Già dalle 5 i camionisti alloggiati nelle camere accanto alle nostre hanno iniziato a levar tende e accendere motori. Tremavano i letti, e qui non sai mai se è la vibrazione dei mezzi pesanti o il terremoto. Le tracce della scossa di magnitudo 8.2 del 2017 sono ancora fin troppo presenti, nella memoria e negli edifici diroccati, nelle crepe sulla strada, che paion cicatrici, e nelle croci dei cimiteri.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Facciamo colazione in camera con le nostre consuete tortillas e marmellata, chiudiamo le borse e siamo in sella. Il cielo è velato, e tale resterà per tutto il giorno, risparmiandoci, oggi sì, dal caldo feroce. Fa caldo, eh, ma si riesce anche a respirare. Le colline intorno chiudono la piana a giro stretto, e si presentano ancora con il berretto da notte di nubi basse e dense come crema. L'umidità crea questo effetto neve-panna grigia, anche perchè l'intera notte ha tuonato e fatto lampi enormi, e probabilmente lassù ha pure piovuto.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Intorno campi a maggese, pratoni, pascoli e un tappeto verde fittissimo, spesso, impenetrabile di erbe basse. Mucche sparse, qualche pecora, alcuni cani assonnati e altri decisamente svegli, che ci inseguono con il solito teatrino delle urla, dei latrati, delle fughe. Di prima mattina è complicato gestire queste botte di adrenalina e cortisolo, ma almeno ci si sveglia in fretta.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Non mancano zone di palude, perchè qui qualche fiume scorre. In questi acquitrini sguazzano uccelli di ogni genere, alcuni simil aironi o garzette, altri che non saprei nominare: non li ho mai visti prima.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDLJaJssdYNwbpyJ2BOSwlCggXPugwWo3dqDoayoClhhNFmooukX65u4XOq3lPr_M1ESliwxH326HIGOyYHgOL0q1wVuUrklcvr0jDc9O9OshmrUWa27eUypzI9wow7AnsJf-4UjTyLspsN68fmFU1l7ppDeQGNnStxWSnfUzeBKf3wWIpUIxAv_hJSU/s1209/20230721_083238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDLJaJssdYNwbpyJ2BOSwlCggXPugwWo3dqDoayoClhhNFmooukX65u4XOq3lPr_M1ESliwxH326HIGOyYHgOL0q1wVuUrklcvr0jDc9O9OshmrUWa27eUypzI9wow7AnsJf-4UjTyLspsN68fmFU1l7ppDeQGNnStxWSnfUzeBKf3wWIpUIxAv_hJSU/s320/20230721_083238.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZ-UmiYSVEWHg3OiqSUdjkEPt31kthgzMYDdc_Lb7Cpw0A_B8YzvPSDh8LHXPKQtCREAEzigCy6skU16rFBH6SmJTbuDxJGy4h3ViTJnGBM9ZIIgc4-5j5CZmu4nHz3K99ZjfZ95MrwuV4ZXUkB03_PZ11D_XclZdaxd7i6C6EbbXCSGvBOYkXP1opXE/s1209/20230721_083251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdZ-UmiYSVEWHg3OiqSUdjkEPt31kthgzMYDdc_Lb7Cpw0A_B8YzvPSDh8LHXPKQtCREAEzigCy6skU16rFBH6SmJTbuDxJGy4h3ViTJnGBM9ZIIgc4-5j5CZmu4nHz3K99ZjfZ95MrwuV4ZXUkB03_PZ11D_XclZdaxd7i6C6EbbXCSGvBOYkXP1opXE/s320/20230721_083251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTeqKFs_G6YW-P78CluvNVTPDnNEXx0hwq8Dku1EBIqxPXD8UuGQJ3gz3F3QPncOFJPUVSeoSL_gnC57mplw4J-77wJhCjRbhjOviwUgbFGplRq9xIixsPORokuFWu4AQNrjecwuNHbeUcy1fEln7lympsij9FKKN9QQn7VQkbrLtnjgxl7ZkGVrlry4/s1209/20230721_083257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTeqKFs_G6YW-P78CluvNVTPDnNEXx0hwq8Dku1EBIqxPXD8UuGQJ3gz3F3QPncOFJPUVSeoSL_gnC57mplw4J-77wJhCjRbhjOviwUgbFGplRq9xIixsPORokuFWu4AQNrjecwuNHbeUcy1fEln7lympsij9FKKN9QQn7VQkbrLtnjgxl7ZkGVrlry4/s320/20230721_083257.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggWTaiBL7RCBM_FvTU76Q-p6TYbafDE_FYRNcEwXxUFGtCbB7n8iJ0sqAHDHQCBhGKuKD6yd9voWtLkAWhursnBKIi2MGAkL93FJFLoQo7Yr3zFe8RfD4AgWBZ9r4NnOh5ekGCnX4vl-zxERSbeGwYsAQKU0U_u4Z0-ZrwWuDiWWpmuULrH5-VtTzSUZ8/s1209/20230721_083349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggWTaiBL7RCBM_FvTU76Q-p6TYbafDE_FYRNcEwXxUFGtCbB7n8iJ0sqAHDHQCBhGKuKD6yd9voWtLkAWhursnBKIi2MGAkL93FJFLoQo7Yr3zFe8RfD4AgWBZ9r4NnOh5ekGCnX4vl-zxERSbeGwYsAQKU0U_u4Z0-ZrwWuDiWWpmuULrH5-VtTzSUZ8/s320/20230721_083349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWvi1BxSJe-h_VjGCOXSjVFn5t_7qfgmPSVxfF-Mb_7U-p1UbqdBv53mvvV3Vhdg3w2X6HCzxKgNc7_tLsl5pSBG9kYuZjWqkVvX6c6xjdQne3zYEOMKY66W_2hEiWid6v9aFNE67DV9nVvSbrz6WUp5pst8YB1NhESMpB40TyEPGxLyfB-RlAkbN5b8/s1209/20230721_083357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWvi1BxSJe-h_VjGCOXSjVFn5t_7qfgmPSVxfF-Mb_7U-p1UbqdBv53mvvV3Vhdg3w2X6HCzxKgNc7_tLsl5pSBG9kYuZjWqkVvX6c6xjdQne3zYEOMKY66W_2hEiWid6v9aFNE67DV9nVvSbrz6WUp5pst8YB1NhESMpB40TyEPGxLyfB-RlAkbN5b8/s320/20230721_083357.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">queste mucche hanno le orecchie luuuuuunghe!</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Il primo tratto scorre via liscio, e dobbiamo purtroppo constatare che anche qui ci sono i basureros publicos, le discariche dei pueblos, proprio a bordo strada, appena fuori dai paesi. Non ci sono grandi mucchi di immondizia, perchè viene continuamente bruciata con roghi tossici di cui anche noi italiani sappiam qualcosa. Qui è la norma, e quando ci passiamo accanto la gola brucia e lacrimano gli occhi per questi fumi di plastica e sa dio che altro bruciati. Diciamo che questi pueblos, abitati in gran parte da nativi, portano a riflettere criticamente sul mito del buon selvaggio di Rousseau. L'educazione non fa mica sempre male, anzi!<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1ssUU2FqdskWS9TbdGUFD0ebvg5mOzPNNDwpkS0vIlTwrqRKMSbZpjRiHNVhgxfMUE6QbEJTwgS19K2eBWILRUtA5DNWBERS9UcIO6IB6rtiL-TLqlakA1orcKjJwhRrHIZNxrrGOhwTJjqT-RdCFE75UcHf-ZdgMJnUmhvBu-_YDWUc9G4Qteo1OkA/s1209/20230721_092835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1ssUU2FqdskWS9TbdGUFD0ebvg5mOzPNNDwpkS0vIlTwrqRKMSbZpjRiHNVhgxfMUE6QbEJTwgS19K2eBWILRUtA5DNWBERS9UcIO6IB6rtiL-TLqlakA1orcKjJwhRrHIZNxrrGOhwTJjqT-RdCFE75UcHf-ZdgMJnUmhvBu-_YDWUc9G4Qteo1OkA/s320/20230721_092835.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVlxUAwKEa8zuwtAfUVgLtrACUepR-GAxdtiwlUWNB3hU8vtyv1NQ2bpGKmViyzzhnkfkSny-htyE6Xm2MTW9pSOr9SBHZX_JvddgccrcqHCh6D4CB2gyDQAnTHAQSEVtfJyAa-uD4mFpPvBsTBSlUHy4SdT4cLqcJ9tFvAV7KQy36g3DVy-bctC0swNk/s1209/20230721_092844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVlxUAwKEa8zuwtAfUVgLtrACUepR-GAxdtiwlUWNB3hU8vtyv1NQ2bpGKmViyzzhnkfkSny-htyE6Xm2MTW9pSOr9SBHZX_JvddgccrcqHCh6D4CB2gyDQAnTHAQSEVtfJyAa-uD4mFpPvBsTBSlUHy4SdT4cLqcJ9tFvAV7KQy36g3DVy-bctC0swNk/s320/20230721_092844.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ben presto, ahimè, la situazione prende una piega molto meno tranquilla per noi che pedaliamo. Si alza un vento teso e fortissimo, che prima ci è esattamente contrario, poi laterale. La fatica di spingere avanti la bici si somma a quella di tenerla dritta e non farla sbandare in mezzo alla strada, dove il traffico non è delirante ma nemmeno assente. Procediamo con una fatica da girone infernale, tutti tesi, le gambe, la schiena, le braccia, il collo, serrati i denti e le mani. Ci chiniamo, diventiamo curvi come camaroni, pare quasi di strisciare, a tratti. Vi lascio immaginare la gioia delle fughe dai cani in corsa, in queste condizioni. Oltretutto la strada presenta spesso delle crepe profonde, larghe giusto poco più delle ruote, probabilmente dovute al terremoto. Siamo costretti a fare brevi soste di continuo, per allentare la tensione di tutto il corpo, e a tratti io cammino, per evitare di essere spinta, nei punti più esposti alla furia di eolo, sotto ai camion. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bs_G3jmrWyOuZRalUzetN3v26yGf9MEFiTEkcrYX3XJRQwLXSeCQgFRShUEL3MeFbL1wV0Wtu8QSloBqRmz7k7klvobv2dahLOIs2SSaQyHQkQMUmkPB2yBAPwcpu5zzG_r9uuFWw1jKz0uxIC_MfnrFnkIUP8WNTdzBb7ZW37DGBbWyaibtmkhZwFs/s1209/20230721_100157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bs_G3jmrWyOuZRalUzetN3v26yGf9MEFiTEkcrYX3XJRQwLXSeCQgFRShUEL3MeFbL1wV0Wtu8QSloBqRmz7k7klvobv2dahLOIs2SSaQyHQkQMUmkPB2yBAPwcpu5zzG_r9uuFWw1jKz0uxIC_MfnrFnkIUP8WNTdzBb7ZW37DGBbWyaibtmkhZwFs/s320/20230721_100157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSQfZM-6KT_-k2x5unp4I-CLIapGxwcD_EF7EmMIal6Pak1LhsNLJKoVDRO6CUtmHnfPPtTVyw02qai7Ig_laRAX6PeUv8l61A3XfPOgL2jXqbweg-6YVoN85r-CX3a79P51lm4krvX5DburPz2d1gSbMtxpxUi6emmfR_pwLHk_l1Wi2QlPe-VgkWGIw/s1209/20230721_100200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSQfZM-6KT_-k2x5unp4I-CLIapGxwcD_EF7EmMIal6Pak1LhsNLJKoVDRO6CUtmHnfPPtTVyw02qai7Ig_laRAX6PeUv8l61A3XfPOgL2jXqbweg-6YVoN85r-CX3a79P51lm4krvX5DburPz2d1gSbMtxpxUi6emmfR_pwLHk_l1Wi2QlPe-VgkWGIw/s320/20230721_100200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQXIQ1H9N2tKMvI9YMZ8x9VShjzkwxtbGd8ksv8sZkf-die47bjhcb8WmHW-me8bJqDkkRPbOf7aT2fm1R51JguwSzXZ8m8wW41yH8s0J3eX7mkN_FkvZB4gw2snXCZPqzEMKZ2OCVIkYHxGQOVPuGEUbgE78u6535Uk2np-kQqbt7SyA5LAzSft4FyE/s1209/20230721_101248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQXIQ1H9N2tKMvI9YMZ8x9VShjzkwxtbGd8ksv8sZkf-die47bjhcb8WmHW-me8bJqDkkRPbOf7aT2fm1R51JguwSzXZ8m8wW41yH8s0J3eX7mkN_FkvZB4gw2snXCZPqzEMKZ2OCVIkYHxGQOVPuGEUbgE78u6535Uk2np-kQqbt7SyA5LAzSft4FyE/s320/20230721_101248.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv9vUV1eOXgTEW5xiJ_YGcybJkdxwvUirH2c0ZkuOg9Lv0SUF5uxbUU5AJo6rclyE2SsTQKVCYjcbsNUM0BgXshqkemNaWCyCuXZkcG-oK1xaWKkBcE8afrQM50eYTfrEMPPsB48HKAd04GLit3EeGM0sd0Lbk2jLleyp04XvcNy8Ls7SCfJyekizfKvI/s1209/20230721_101251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv9vUV1eOXgTEW5xiJ_YGcybJkdxwvUirH2c0ZkuOg9Lv0SUF5uxbUU5AJo6rclyE2SsTQKVCYjcbsNUM0BgXshqkemNaWCyCuXZkcG-oK1xaWKkBcE8afrQM50eYTfrEMPPsB48HKAd04GLit3EeGM0sd0Lbk2jLleyp04XvcNy8Ls7SCfJyekizfKvI/s320/20230721_101251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBLAebikawUrVun5gSOIf_oSXVTrXna4SC5ntCIJoiOnbOyJRCXH3F06eo6ScGHnHIwfL1t0O5KY8SVvIlXVsEXmirum2GEfK5myB4f-sw6k15368AWrD2rLlhiITFpRwHsKstcpLmeL8p9HUmtXgEiGqJou9wp58kpaObwsJo5TsjmYic7H0KTdSclQ/s1209/20230721_102046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdBLAebikawUrVun5gSOIf_oSXVTrXna4SC5ntCIJoiOnbOyJRCXH3F06eo6ScGHnHIwfL1t0O5KY8SVvIlXVsEXmirum2GEfK5myB4f-sw6k15368AWrD2rLlhiITFpRwHsKstcpLmeL8p9HUmtXgEiGqJou9wp58kpaObwsJo5TsjmYic7H0KTdSclQ/s320/20230721_102046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Mentre lottiamo contro la cattiveria della tramontana, incontriamo una fiumana di migranti. Qui ne passano a centinaia, e sono centro-sudamericani ma anche africani, tantissimi, e qualche mediorientale. Che ci facciano qui è presto detto: hanno lasciato il loro paese e vanno verso gli USA e il Canada. C'è una linea ferroviaria, una delle poche del Messico, che corre dalla frontiera meridionale fino al nord del paese. Sono treni merci, chiamati "La bestia" o "El tren de la muerte" perchè i migranti ci viaggiano sopra in condizioni disumane, per essere poi spesso fermati e rispediti al mittente. Ora poi, un po' a causa degli uragani che hanno distrutto parte della ferrovia, in parte per i lavori di costruzione del corredor interoceanico, che collegherà l'istmo qui con il Golfo, i treni hanno frequenza e percorso ridotti. E quindi i migranti vanno a piedi. Circa 500km, per 500.000 persone all'anno. Uomini, ragazzi, donne giovani. Con solo uno zaino o una borsa, un paio di scarpe appese al collo e la speranza che qualcuno si fermi a dar loro un passaggio. Oggi ne abbiamo incontrati almeno un centinaio, che camminavano a gruppi in una sorta di lunga, sfilacciata carovana. Ci siamo scambiati qualche saluto, qualcuno, leggendo il cartello "Soy italiana" ha gridato ridendo: "Buongiorno! Vai uomo!". Quando ci siamo fermati in un paesino a riposare, Cazadero, i bimbi e le signore con i chioschetti ci hanno chiesto una mano per "controllare" che queste persone non usassero i bagni senza pagare i 5 pesitos e non allungassero le mani sull'acqua. Sinceramente io non faccio il cane da guardia, anzi, ho fatto entrare in bagno di nascosto una ragazzina e poi un'altra. So che è una guerra fra poveri e poverissimi, e nessuno ha ragione nè torto. Però ci sono delle necessità primarie e quelle sono evidenti a tutti. So che comunque nel pueblo accanto la gente, Santo Domingo Ingenio, la gente ha accolto un po' più calorosamente alcuni migranti, approntando dormitori e raccolte di cibo e vestiti. Alcuni uomini, arrivati al pueblo, hanno preso un taxi, chiedendo di andare nel centro accoglienza più vicino. Sono luoghi di salvezza ma anche di dannazione, con storie dell'orrore che vi lascio solo immaginare. In ogni caso, pedalare controvento risalendo queste carovane è impegnativo emotivamente, oltrechè fisicamente.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3BLXtLLUKd-7_va_rdZUt6PHVCzqo3d2pQkXbipOspg9v8v806luvgUONXAzMs-DO3RqxDGV3Rg3zPAwT0I8ETswhEUtp4vUjLqerbCu2ZjjIvl1BlSa2QH4NsNEhK5J4BY6AkKJuMJAEERpvRBh1Z__kSAQYJ0yNYZf1Jw2bDjQU9_VgaV6QeJDwoQ/s1209/20230721_105015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3BLXtLLUKd-7_va_rdZUt6PHVCzqo3d2pQkXbipOspg9v8v806luvgUONXAzMs-DO3RqxDGV3Rg3zPAwT0I8ETswhEUtp4vUjLqerbCu2ZjjIvl1BlSa2QH4NsNEhK5J4BY6AkKJuMJAEERpvRBh1Z__kSAQYJ0yNYZf1Jw2bDjQU9_VgaV6QeJDwoQ/s320/20230721_105015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Superata la carovana, attraversiamo un lunghissimo, estesissimo parco eolico, che ci fa da sfondo per oltre 20km. In effetti, stiamo pedalando verso una città che si chiama "La ventosa", e non + quella sturacessi. Eolo qui fa sempre il suo dovere, insomma. E noi ce lo stiamo godendo tutto, a bestemmioni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgJ6sdfYAH1Y-2UlFEUS5iRJr10kN9BfAHbp6ZSezOBDrzq93D_iTFA6mEY-arLROKcnu47Bu67lkPiSc9KjuDZeREzLzNugFOb9b_Sf7L-DdA8zbDBF1jDHc22Qmiv7dE2Y_P4KY2E2raksNntsOoGV8KzZxC304DYFaRgfGX5tlHQjnqR-Y7d74AiE/s1209/20230721_105350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgJ6sdfYAH1Y-2UlFEUS5iRJr10kN9BfAHbp6ZSezOBDrzq93D_iTFA6mEY-arLROKcnu47Bu67lkPiSc9KjuDZeREzLzNugFOb9b_Sf7L-DdA8zbDBF1jDHc22Qmiv7dE2Y_P4KY2E2raksNntsOoGV8KzZxC304DYFaRgfGX5tlHQjnqR-Y7d74AiE/s320/20230721_105350.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hfaJ23MJhYGA_vHiLFfZf3TnjaLxs4k3U0rStDyBzgNmVSFrbiLTMLCwKaUC1In5A9gghXmzH1VOl37MolT4MU7ps6pAWHv8BI0PC2sAwnYPzS7N6zwKoheCkLbkHRNHB0s_-2e1w8FHkRiXo0F6qxkJMZGtemjOkAefUEytAblDQ6TRh7taCDz0pCg/s979/20230721_105539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5hfaJ23MJhYGA_vHiLFfZf3TnjaLxs4k3U0rStDyBzgNmVSFrbiLTMLCwKaUC1In5A9gghXmzH1VOl37MolT4MU7ps6pAWHv8BI0PC2sAwnYPzS7N6zwKoheCkLbkHRNHB0s_-2e1w8FHkRiXo0F6qxkJMZGtemjOkAefUEytAblDQ6TRh7taCDz0pCg/s320/20230721_105539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1Q0I0Bzu9b5ba_MxXmVK76mzinG7pNjFiMVNrDAPArIV7AxY5m5k9fomWZE7fjp11T4q60HlIimt-GC_J9y7tTbunaqyN2w8K4PUHKCl9T5NeNE9xqTNvHqB4W9xBNFNk9zAAg_PD5KkszWv35jlDAPda-Ix3cYWZtRa7Mit9eQybLmitvOAoammQ3s/s1209/20230721_105546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1Q0I0Bzu9b5ba_MxXmVK76mzinG7pNjFiMVNrDAPArIV7AxY5m5k9fomWZE7fjp11T4q60HlIimt-GC_J9y7tTbunaqyN2w8K4PUHKCl9T5NeNE9xqTNvHqB4W9xBNFNk9zAAg_PD5KkszWv35jlDAPda-Ix3cYWZtRa7Mit9eQybLmitvOAoammQ3s/s320/20230721_105546.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUDfjjuE8hoUUGBwOviOwrD9jdj6R7b1MWTfJoTMih46Y523y8ALOrTVuVcW9pmKyJ6N27rx_Vzo2WLYen4LvGo3DdI-oxclEuGF8oTpau5IG0QMA6qHiXJyGAHh_wus0P8OF5lqVsFCKtG6Yu6aGp1vq5Ck0LEwQyzCX9Vr_L-47uQJUcYLpjXQwbKA/s1209/20230721_111621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUDfjjuE8hoUUGBwOviOwrD9jdj6R7b1MWTfJoTMih46Y523y8ALOrTVuVcW9pmKyJ6N27rx_Vzo2WLYen4LvGo3DdI-oxclEuGF8oTpau5IG0QMA6qHiXJyGAHh_wus0P8OF5lqVsFCKtG6Yu6aGp1vq5Ck0LEwQyzCX9Vr_L-47uQJUcYLpjXQwbKA/s320/20230721_111621.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwYITHc3j6MlFsU24B8okUz-7R4gbK_Xp5XAQeGy_Fp9BzCAZpWNivkPsIC2XeDl38E8bdhppoqUlGmgUtuSpBFU67wVrvZyVAHB4vDWkvSJsLi_udZNhNkfFnnbcRoH6r_A_4FT-RdL4ryA4H5ABVtOBJCl8Gl8kxVi4bbwzmFyhrZe5pqoqsmKXJhk/s1209/20230721_112612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwYITHc3j6MlFsU24B8okUz-7R4gbK_Xp5XAQeGy_Fp9BzCAZpWNivkPsIC2XeDl38E8bdhppoqUlGmgUtuSpBFU67wVrvZyVAHB4vDWkvSJsLi_udZNhNkfFnnbcRoH6r_A_4FT-RdL4ryA4H5ABVtOBJCl8Gl8kxVi4bbwzmFyhrZe5pqoqsmKXJhk/s320/20230721_112612.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW32R9Dd0Zu3Mg4nF721MCfO6NeMbg2hmT5Te-D7tOTX543H7f5KtFq4svbv7-e0UqVnI5flnIgbc8BTbA644KVGfB0pnery0rVY48EKgjmsjsT4J20nqP2usRyLc2_Zx6rJc6Kk6_QrzTmeUt8Q0ZErWsGhpBqR2PXzPsW46Su-LVXVLZ3DbJswrv8XY/s1209/20230721_112621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW32R9Dd0Zu3Mg4nF721MCfO6NeMbg2hmT5Te-D7tOTX543H7f5KtFq4svbv7-e0UqVnI5flnIgbc8BTbA644KVGfB0pnery0rVY48EKgjmsjsT4J20nqP2usRyLc2_Zx6rJc6Kk6_QrzTmeUt8Q0ZErWsGhpBqR2PXzPsW46Su-LVXVLZ3DbJswrv8XY/s320/20230721_112621.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15IlvRv3d_d24GIooAcy1DsRk2HEc0C4O4B2GkJoSuhoelu6seOEXLdUze1v7CGFeGtPhFYYnzZfjQ0_L_Mwx1D1UWv9xK--9DaXCx30isyz_mJoicKT1TzWud01v1X3Joh3rZSHHVTBUajrl32j7tQfzvUQxekmkii75ts3PHtJeeT7htRNfAMp0h7E/s1209/20230721_112629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15IlvRv3d_d24GIooAcy1DsRk2HEc0C4O4B2GkJoSuhoelu6seOEXLdUze1v7CGFeGtPhFYYnzZfjQ0_L_Mwx1D1UWv9xK--9DaXCx30isyz_mJoicKT1TzWud01v1X3Joh3rZSHHVTBUajrl32j7tQfzvUQxekmkii75ts3PHtJeeT7htRNfAMp0h7E/s320/20230721_112629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkA72F1ZFdalT2dclmNwK2v98z1sV0vmP_FxGntCyxxNFzSPrTKlXmwOnupHTq_nmmAZGBcgcu7LP1PTpTInCJUHoLpB05knAybyToR0PBFYm_4uwXZtqG1NnJpQCR4AcpY6vvCF0gehha_S6ssfSw-_-uA0xtv92Mrm6qYFncVs8fRSrT9qYAZ5eEsDk/s1209/20230721_112634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkA72F1ZFdalT2dclmNwK2v98z1sV0vmP_FxGntCyxxNFzSPrTKlXmwOnupHTq_nmmAZGBcgcu7LP1PTpTInCJUHoLpB05knAybyToR0PBFYm_4uwXZtqG1NnJpQCR4AcpY6vvCF0gehha_S6ssfSw-_-uA0xtv92Mrm6qYFncVs8fRSrT9qYAZ5eEsDk/s320/20230721_112634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE7vrTo64jVEpAfZuFWg3DLl2HSC3ECd4L9BkGtXBFLccc5-PC55umowQ9npLJ7XAKfgHyceZh4KT5EzcaycW7IqYsoUPfFaw33gTG-poNq_YELrJ8xvtwOPY2LUx00_TlK5A1ty01n526FCr3Tl3tXvoEyJp5e4jxNtk9cy8bErgiWB-GXQO0FrKValg/s1209/20230721_123418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE7vrTo64jVEpAfZuFWg3DLl2HSC3ECd4L9BkGtXBFLccc5-PC55umowQ9npLJ7XAKfgHyceZh4KT5EzcaycW7IqYsoUPfFaw33gTG-poNq_YELrJ8xvtwOPY2LUx00_TlK5A1ty01n526FCr3Tl3tXvoEyJp5e4jxNtk9cy8bErgiWB-GXQO0FrKValg/s320/20230721_123418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBWycopKML-PPOrCpZGxwpSaUutvRpcYHVCGcwqFgCBmOM1CgLnPm8dAbpCAm2ye-lI2AqgzDz_B6-J1pjd2lnWksq21oGEmLMAAX-hxnMqmbcrlT0ZwEusQz4XRDGYXgFW-DOP_ULssHxxOngfyM8VZzblZ_7Aue6hwfmCkvO1qmAA624vKBeWlDk-B8/s1209/20230721_123422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBWycopKML-PPOrCpZGxwpSaUutvRpcYHVCGcwqFgCBmOM1CgLnPm8dAbpCAm2ye-lI2AqgzDz_B6-J1pjd2lnWksq21oGEmLMAAX-hxnMqmbcrlT0ZwEusQz4XRDGYXgFW-DOP_ULssHxxOngfyM8VZzblZ_7Aue6hwfmCkvO1qmAA624vKBeWlDk-B8/s320/20230721_123422.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente raggiungiamo la metà tappa, appunto a La ventosa. Qui facciamo una sosta-pranzetto con frutta secca picosita, attirando la curiosità di tutti i cittadini, della polizia, dei cani, persino del pollame. Di turisti, qui, non ne passano mai.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBEG6igdkjjVPW7-kBGqeBI_ndtXql-vwhnKt_3aT6IwF9MopghIKP1wJJauv9qSjXTKfUEnmc7OVCmdO50WB6mR3AUCNCc1c_E6Ld9v23B5z2PM07M31TnDEBy-1DEVp01MAaBG8sPHjSPHr1BUZDUhdX0HIMsKtfD4iU4G8oo0JFFP7IsVodtPrRA-k/s1209/20230721_130027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBEG6igdkjjVPW7-kBGqeBI_ndtXql-vwhnKt_3aT6IwF9MopghIKP1wJJauv9qSjXTKfUEnmc7OVCmdO50WB6mR3AUCNCc1c_E6Ld9v23B5z2PM07M31TnDEBy-1DEVp01MAaBG8sPHjSPHr1BUZDUhdX0HIMsKtfD4iU4G8oo0JFFP7IsVodtPrRA-k/s320/20230721_130027.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQnmQCb-TJhTTBHTHMv3LNwj_zETrLIwuLsXRZ9hWolRfTN9_9-Mhpj3UDKqXClzHdX7I5Xr3S6R2Sp6speKH5NEgCgqEMx5m7tsma-D_fZkkbt_BSJdVCrQo1b9fkok_PCKAB0cRl7vYN3YySt41vUvzgnedsRONYPzrv3jA4OCFGAhjGivqgTci0gs4/s1209/20230721_130042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQnmQCb-TJhTTBHTHMv3LNwj_zETrLIwuLsXRZ9hWolRfTN9_9-Mhpj3UDKqXClzHdX7I5Xr3S6R2Sp6speKH5NEgCgqEMx5m7tsma-D_fZkkbt_BSJdVCrQo1b9fkok_PCKAB0cRl7vYN3YySt41vUvzgnedsRONYPzrv3jA4OCFGAhjGivqgTci0gs4/s320/20230721_130042.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBsM6JSUJ30cY5-6iaGDbQ9abKctlTuYdMZQXPiYoqJEeKE2cmNJCXG_8bVGKvuqWkAr3ykYIgiNEyO7C8FAhbrRHn5Xg4MFbCugfFpPdXhrWjE8s6MHxrl2bgzC-2EstGjvMEscdLVLXg4mAgLMV6OgIqBJj05-2vfWy00V7LePuDGi0vSpuwAp6Vgc/s1209/20230721_135348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSBsM6JSUJ30cY5-6iaGDbQ9abKctlTuYdMZQXPiYoqJEeKE2cmNJCXG_8bVGKvuqWkAr3ykYIgiNEyO7C8FAhbrRHn5Xg4MFbCugfFpPdXhrWjE8s6MHxrl2bgzC-2EstGjvMEscdLVLXg4mAgLMV6OgIqBJj05-2vfWy00V7LePuDGi0vSpuwAp6Vgc/s320/20230721_135348.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ripatiamo con la consapevolezza che, da qui in poi, la strada fa una brusca curva a sud e quindi ci pone a favore di vento. Così è. Raggiungere Juchitan si rivela impresa facile. La guida Lonely Planet cita le 30 differenti velas (feste) di quartiere con musica, danze, bevute e banchetti che si svolgono tra aprile e settembre; cita anche i muxes: gay dichiarati, spesso travestiti, completamente accettati dalla comunità locale e con tanto di festa loro, a novembre. Del centro ho scattato poche foto perchè il traffico era troppo caotico e pericoloso, soprattutto i mototaxi impazziti di manovrine nevrotiche. Questo ci ha anche fatto desistere dal visitare la piazza centrale, con mercato (dove è in vendita, anche già cucinata, la carne di iguana) e il palazzo del comune, del XIX secolo, con 31 archi e segni evidenti lasciati dal terremoto. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkH9OSxhtM2qKKlZC2XYPb1-YM37Pc8eBgtSH1_3aKn17pKorK3UtIdvVj_WHisN4ZhOoKyPB41vtR6jqZFc7R6eW8Qvypnr0fPmfXaHRZ4VF1SXpjq0wEdsdJLKYXW1JSiv-drjT09MXQqVOFXImEvWGlyzrGlZtRsG-EH21bX4TFMeTULULgcPnHJ4I/s1209/20230721_143422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkH9OSxhtM2qKKlZC2XYPb1-YM37Pc8eBgtSH1_3aKn17pKorK3UtIdvVj_WHisN4ZhOoKyPB41vtR6jqZFc7R6eW8Qvypnr0fPmfXaHRZ4VF1SXpjq0wEdsdJLKYXW1JSiv-drjT09MXQqVOFXImEvWGlyzrGlZtRsG-EH21bX4TFMeTULULgcPnHJ4I/s320/20230721_143422.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Il toponimo deriva dal nahuatl, "Luogo dei fiori bianchi". E' stata fondata dagli zapotechi e ancora oggi gran parte dei suoi abitanti è di questa etnia e parla questa lingua (ci sono anche radio e tv che usano solo questo idioma). Praticano un cattolicesimo intriso di elementi preispanici, e i curanderi hanno ancora gran seguito. Storicamente sono un popolo fiero, libero, pronto a combattere per difendersi. Hanno respinto gli aztechi, a lungo gli spagnoli, i francesi di Napoleone III. Hanno lottato per Diaz e poi per Zapata e Villa. Hanno accolto gli zapatisti nel 2001. Tradizionalmente sono molto uniti, i vicini si aiutano tra loro e la comunità ha un tessuto forte, che si manifesta, appunto, nelle feste (che hanno rituali complessi, costumi, danze specifiche...). Tuttavia la criminalità si sta diffondendo anche qui, e anno dopo anno interessa anche le comunità più piccole, coese e "sane".</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo per gli ultimi 25km, che sono di stradone drittissimo di vento nuovamente laterale. Intorno, prati. Sagome scure di colline sullo sfondo chiudono l'orizzonte.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc8zvCSp2ARCLkx8byfff_boZfHGZb3JsbRdMPNNpILPTGtazlupAtDoUAjSOGYSrTy3uciXde3Ny5Com2WKTCGwzX3Bt9JGY30lRPGJx1sp1ZFWoSZK-Z2m3eEf1uR_zWzJACpMn4pShUCVhoJqOwQcaiwmX78Beq1COljcwijfK6WT9zUasCpAbygiA/s1154/20230721_150140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="1154" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc8zvCSp2ARCLkx8byfff_boZfHGZb3JsbRdMPNNpILPTGtazlupAtDoUAjSOGYSrTy3uciXde3Ny5Com2WKTCGwzX3Bt9JGY30lRPGJx1sp1ZFWoSZK-Z2m3eEf1uR_zWzJACpMn4pShUCVhoJqOwQcaiwmX78Beq1COljcwijfK6WT9zUasCpAbygiA/s320/20230721_150140.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixf2SX9WOQv0eNi6-EBqywXPx_ud8Yj_-xLTg-yENsVY4G9JD_lR0OjEFBzxUwr7boE8BlvTFYXrH56obfZzXbAN3V2bKscYrMK4-Ames6XvnACuDqJA8cYZALK8Tawu-XXIheDWUM1wMKpguPLQRzuQFTk21C_LmOknqpi6JuPDh7zdeTs5tTPIVCeHk/s1209/20230721_150146(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixf2SX9WOQv0eNi6-EBqywXPx_ud8Yj_-xLTg-yENsVY4G9JD_lR0OjEFBzxUwr7boE8BlvTFYXrH56obfZzXbAN3V2bKscYrMK4-Ames6XvnACuDqJA8cYZALK8Tawu-XXIheDWUM1wMKpguPLQRzuQFTk21C_LmOknqpi6JuPDh7zdeTs5tTPIVCeHk/s320/20230721_150146(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non senza fatica, tra una spinta e un calcio ai pedali, arriviamo finalmente a Tehuantepec, la nostra meta di oggi. Siamo nei punti più stretti del Messico, tra Atlantico e Pacifico qui corrono meno di 200km. Il traffico non è devastante e, in breve, raggiungiamo l'hospedaje che abbiamo prescelto. Hostal Emilia, gestito da un anziano che a malapena si alza dall'amaca che ha appeso nella hall, al secondo piano di un antico edificio. Che stile!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirDnBOpMnL8H-NjbE2oS1eLuo-Q7GcPIwvUvswCdmiZk_14pWwMr3Rp4P1Zm1OY1-SP6JagBFMBt-lldDRvsA1LpBNi0Ebo-ASviC6getm8JXYZWlxVMrVwK6qyyex01xSTLRBlaU9odgOGTqWeWLOjbF5eqye4Adp-whXaEVKdEPUicoCpy-WE2WrgLE/s1209/20230721_154634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirDnBOpMnL8H-NjbE2oS1eLuo-Q7GcPIwvUvswCdmiZk_14pWwMr3Rp4P1Zm1OY1-SP6JagBFMBt-lldDRvsA1LpBNi0Ebo-ASviC6getm8JXYZWlxVMrVwK6qyyex01xSTLRBlaU9odgOGTqWeWLOjbF5eqye4Adp-whXaEVKdEPUicoCpy-WE2WrgLE/s320/20230721_154634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjrtAlsPvctsbAH4Vv-RjunqQSmHIk9YMp2GV_HM7VjE3IiSFec558dPn0hsQmfS8b06U_EKPwBBT3e76uPUNLQV7WRmWnUiS35RFQ4zpfKy0EWB538pOZRa7L_9nCZrsmrqwvW9OsW8gPPCSITIedYRmU0mXjPHdq4nYBiu5CrftQyjnI3zHHgtbgAig/s1209/20230721_155030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjrtAlsPvctsbAH4Vv-RjunqQSmHIk9YMp2GV_HM7VjE3IiSFec558dPn0hsQmfS8b06U_EKPwBBT3e76uPUNLQV7WRmWnUiS35RFQ4zpfKy0EWB538pOZRa7L_9nCZrsmrqwvW9OsW8gPPCSITIedYRmU0mXjPHdq4nYBiu5CrftQyjnI3zHHgtbgAig/s320/20230721_155030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFadk2sVFOetLXw77AtQGmxs3bzn_2Wjd5X4nytEiUU4V8Qg4fxHYFvrZP6tSWYK3X6lExTItxXDslXMsw3v8qQ5-mz7b1KXj48oNlARJBUCPvhymKVm-a-EWIscNvlBXy2rKoiQ1XT8OrFbxMRSTaz7QwtJsAE4EMzavnyKfGEuzcNJVXiGfS6RODuO0/s979/20230721_162701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFadk2sVFOetLXw77AtQGmxs3bzn_2Wjd5X4nytEiUU4V8Qg4fxHYFvrZP6tSWYK3X6lExTItxXDslXMsw3v8qQ5-mz7b1KXj48oNlARJBUCPvhymKVm-a-EWIscNvlBXy2rKoiQ1XT8OrFbxMRSTaz7QwtJsAE4EMzavnyKfGEuzcNJVXiGfS6RODuO0/s320/20230721_162701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPI9VvmE0ZMEK6FQgcGQW7a1GILp2jSZnoHWSKYewVU13vFHUaXsKWa4P7ZfyWh7iGggri9l-DCTx5F-NNjAosUL7F4rKkou2AkwAHtHkQp_kk6ysLncb1MFc0T0XKu_f7AiurT37Q7H-XX4d5eHG5c1EP1IXI0lHKF0pmuKGmtI33tkO3zLlS8uKDw78/s1209/20230721_162740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPI9VvmE0ZMEK6FQgcGQW7a1GILp2jSZnoHWSKYewVU13vFHUaXsKWa4P7ZfyWh7iGggri9l-DCTx5F-NNjAosUL7F4rKkou2AkwAHtHkQp_kk6ysLncb1MFc0T0XKu_f7AiurT37Q7H-XX4d5eHG5c1EP1IXI0lHKF0pmuKGmtI33tkO3zLlS8uKDw78/s320/20230721_162740.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQIXsGL39RILZlOXzR1hnFzG5nrs1rNAv2UsnYzZQGENLP49Cqr0uzZZKPbTMfyIthUYU_UV3bNkn-XNM3JLxjpjBIVMFLvnHXcFyfFgCJVvu9A6m7uVT5rU5NtUS3STn_3Mc4osFcfvY8aJ5zlI7f_pydW0s9ZSFOux22UK3b3gdK2K1A1XXTftM-jA/s1209/20230721_165825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQIXsGL39RILZlOXzR1hnFzG5nrs1rNAv2UsnYzZQGENLP49Cqr0uzZZKPbTMfyIthUYU_UV3bNkn-XNM3JLxjpjBIVMFLvnHXcFyfFgCJVvu9A6m7uVT5rU5NtUS3STn_3Mc4osFcfvY8aJ5zlI7f_pydW0s9ZSFOux22UK3b3gdK2K1A1XXTftM-jA/s320/20230721_165825.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-js4fU2hjGxDiK0qLDhQ9_Z2pY41Td5a0WNuj2TQF2BFi0hghz8EVfY7UySIwaWmUesL5CK3CeutSmtWvfCKExCvi8GnXzng27Fp3H-oMLEE62w1un03qhPcIoh6KjPNQ3gh43jUYcW_eSxgxPfH4BzYH8MtaAuJ9-WRo5RzxplKYjEQldktDgnfxtjk/s1209/20230721_165847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-js4fU2hjGxDiK0qLDhQ9_Z2pY41Td5a0WNuj2TQF2BFi0hghz8EVfY7UySIwaWmUesL5CK3CeutSmtWvfCKExCvi8GnXzng27Fp3H-oMLEE62w1un03qhPcIoh6KjPNQ3gh43jUYcW_eSxgxPfH4BzYH8MtaAuJ9-WRo5RzxplKYjEQldktDgnfxtjk/s320/20230721_165847.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tehuantepec è stata capitale secondaria dell'impero zapoteco, prima che gli spagnoli la conquistassero, nel XVI secolo. Cito a braccio da Wikipedia: "La città è tuttora il centro della cultura zapoteca nell'Istmo; è famosa per le sue donne ed i loro abiti tradizionali, utilizzati anche da Frida Kahlo. Tehuantepec ha una reputazione di "società matriarcale". Le donne comandano i mercati locali e sono famose per deridere gli uomini, che fino agli anni '70 non potevano accederi. Il potere politico è comunque in mano agli uomini. La città visse un breve boom economico all'inizio del XX secolo, grazie alla ferrovia che univa i due oceani, ma presto eclissata dalla nascita del canale di Panama. Esistono progetti che vorrebbero ripristinare il collegamento tra Golfo del Messico ed Oceano Pacifico, ma sono bloccati da problemi finanziari".</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo essere rimasti un po' a esalare gli ultimi respiri in camera, che è un forno e non si raffredda nè con i ventilatori nè con le preghiere, usciamo a esplorare il vicino centro. La piazza centrale è animata da gente a passeggio e bancarelle, ambulanti e musicisti di strada. Su di essa affacciano il palazzo comunale e uno dei quattro mercati coperti, quelli gestiti solo da donne. Gli uomini che vi mettono piede vengono scherniti e la loro virilità è messa in dubbio. Tanti edifici sono antichi, anche se diroccati, e sui tetti di molti crescono i cactus!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH1FTYA24dH24dla9zL-5Eze-gvLPIea1pBhcVFifvT4P9HjZtiDa6C_eJODQM7Toa8BE8gBioX_dUJHp7T2Cr3C3qFu4Vrx8e5V2jmc8D7cyl-HB8pT4eNuMV3ryYGGJf3kWVrdMtGO25M28r25EvIcbwha0KQeUVpLVJfSUGBAUx66DIK9qcPoUntsE/s1209/20230721_184221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH1FTYA24dH24dla9zL-5Eze-gvLPIea1pBhcVFifvT4P9HjZtiDa6C_eJODQM7Toa8BE8gBioX_dUJHp7T2Cr3C3qFu4Vrx8e5V2jmc8D7cyl-HB8pT4eNuMV3ryYGGJf3kWVrdMtGO25M28r25EvIcbwha0KQeUVpLVJfSUGBAUx66DIK9qcPoUntsE/s320/20230721_184221.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DIgtYCzfoj8XfKE3lo6b-svoOZvH1YtWGPJ2lkANrjWEJL1qJiPHpOi-y3p39Opd2fNcwa_XLMFjUQeqilOIOBg4BAN5sNB_EY7IltbFf5o0DEusepHQ2OJCUc8-zYroWwW3t50nGzPZBaIbkbfjj-gDZluQ_qAQRBfWvi_WxhO08pbZekT0GjiXMC8/s1209/20230721_184251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0DIgtYCzfoj8XfKE3lo6b-svoOZvH1YtWGPJ2lkANrjWEJL1qJiPHpOi-y3p39Opd2fNcwa_XLMFjUQeqilOIOBg4BAN5sNB_EY7IltbFf5o0DEusepHQ2OJCUc8-zYroWwW3t50nGzPZBaIbkbfjj-gDZluQ_qAQRBfWvi_WxhO08pbZekT0GjiXMC8/s320/20230721_184251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7e1YAluxj7z100bWnZVqwDQLTIxa3R10JDAQ2WxnNAFLeIV37B0lRJezSk1lfFJOcJEla6KqjDzrTl1DK-loIEv_JGTND1gqnhzD3JSMpFqx42wDrCXVRUK1-vpNHIQZyYqUpeLrSve9M93tcSiqrmBRs5_-uta2miqtjXWsPowqNQdEyO1ZFg9ki6jY/s1209/20230721_184255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7e1YAluxj7z100bWnZVqwDQLTIxa3R10JDAQ2WxnNAFLeIV37B0lRJezSk1lfFJOcJEla6KqjDzrTl1DK-loIEv_JGTND1gqnhzD3JSMpFqx42wDrCXVRUK1-vpNHIQZyYqUpeLrSve9M93tcSiqrmBRs5_-uta2miqtjXWsPowqNQdEyO1ZFg9ki6jY/s320/20230721_184255.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj777gR26IdH2N4jaRMItzSurjn7h64PBZRki7N_PbAbH2DuhbUkiOjvapbUG92fMGDBLDv_VTkfOTCFub8uEQsraH-zF9DDhKVPy5WURboyYUp4-uUAudQNyWOUQb3EbcgESZq0LXHRO9j_LUyC4iwhaUn70_tloqp-JbJLlRVF2PALpOkES00vznL30A/s1209/20230721_184310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj777gR26IdH2N4jaRMItzSurjn7h64PBZRki7N_PbAbH2DuhbUkiOjvapbUG92fMGDBLDv_VTkfOTCFub8uEQsraH-zF9DDhKVPy5WURboyYUp4-uUAudQNyWOUQb3EbcgESZq0LXHRO9j_LUyC4iwhaUn70_tloqp-JbJLlRVF2PALpOkES00vznL30A/s320/20230721_184310.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12cF7nnqttqbLeyKBLRZVyYC2Z1G-LbXzpbQpDlpZk6FHQc1Z6hh8ZsRzG_V9rZyflp1n65R4GtBrBO3EGaKyDWjdyHVdttOBqpalCm7tIeLRrEbGDsZcGYjlFWtRBWSdhvEcWY9eb1S_CFEfglYKYGjOvf9_cuQt9jty0CNGgDT9Zhu8KwjbLDil3to/s1209/20230721_184505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12cF7nnqttqbLeyKBLRZVyYC2Z1G-LbXzpbQpDlpZk6FHQc1Z6hh8ZsRzG_V9rZyflp1n65R4GtBrBO3EGaKyDWjdyHVdttOBqpalCm7tIeLRrEbGDsZcGYjlFWtRBWSdhvEcWY9eb1S_CFEfglYKYGjOvf9_cuQt9jty0CNGgDT9Zhu8KwjbLDil3to/s320/20230721_184505.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-b1_BsZgUxWKx3fJJ8jyfBlzZ_l7-xmEvW2Ln4pXpqjx3d0hwVaP1fFFFHDXzcjeKQQb1IQXEG4LXA12rjzdEFHbQfXR5a5kLFPOImiuDnpW23ELNVtKnhzrjUGM4P5Z-5HqDTSlMGUlvwM_vNpbKG7gLv0UeP4v4knYKVN9QNMNuOgkEmfV6ossWHE/s1209/20230721_184603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-b1_BsZgUxWKx3fJJ8jyfBlzZ_l7-xmEvW2Ln4pXpqjx3d0hwVaP1fFFFHDXzcjeKQQb1IQXEG4LXA12rjzdEFHbQfXR5a5kLFPOImiuDnpW23ELNVtKnhzrjUGM4P5Z-5HqDTSlMGUlvwM_vNpbKG7gLv0UeP4v4knYKVN9QNMNuOgkEmfV6ossWHE/s320/20230721_184603.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Facciamo un salto alla cattedrale, dove è in corso una funzione. Nel cortile, si svolge invece una lezione di arti marziali, con bimbi in kimono e maestro con cuscini paracalci e pugni. Uno strano mix. Qualche senzatetto dorme sulle panche di pietra nel cortile. L'ex convento domenicano, che è anche il centro culturale che propone mostre ed esibizioni sulla storia e cultura locali, porta ancora tracce del terremoto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrJIF1gvUjbKgBqz0OYk6pUWCCw_vobihPObVwQ0flwAGVyovD8Zl88Hk4wySfSmoHtoQUqS5uoQCXjU4JPq1dufH_x969uDGc9cZpXj3J3MZUvxMf56N6R7Q8FxQRojDgadcXlYPssae_RCMhxEaEhiVTt3991iJT2zyTEJfweEKgoIGI1WbVKD2mSM/s1209/20230721_184737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrJIF1gvUjbKgBqz0OYk6pUWCCw_vobihPObVwQ0flwAGVyovD8Zl88Hk4wySfSmoHtoQUqS5uoQCXjU4JPq1dufH_x969uDGc9cZpXj3J3MZUvxMf56N6R7Q8FxQRojDgadcXlYPssae_RCMhxEaEhiVTt3991iJT2zyTEJfweEKgoIGI1WbVKD2mSM/s320/20230721_184737.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFu70qmiBTYInkvER6REGbu5UGbx09UBNX0COjegcxtkuuTE7qPR1uxfDS3JNDNu3Oguj7iYcAtz-2zOlLOQffUoF5-ESivM2XfJczxlinVBBu7R6aGdzIYrGmXztwMQl8OuopEG8CEjARCVh4DMCAMnAEr2rWqqbC4qaV5Fh7VBATuDPNDVh6AjgJxw/s1209/20230721_184805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFu70qmiBTYInkvER6REGbu5UGbx09UBNX0COjegcxtkuuTE7qPR1uxfDS3JNDNu3Oguj7iYcAtz-2zOlLOQffUoF5-ESivM2XfJczxlinVBBu7R6aGdzIYrGmXztwMQl8OuopEG8CEjARCVh4DMCAMnAEr2rWqqbC4qaV5Fh7VBATuDPNDVh6AjgJxw/s320/20230721_184805.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyQoJovcrUUvODucGCdhHnXVV97sgyI1lEkIsLQYVKWlgkrksicTB2hZ9xpDwgtIo2JWzLv67YDokm6fdfBa_MRH_2PB6yuBj7Lomt4U7NFrOYNbKyWSTqQtg--ymNTe5JP_Ro9O-pjdKUmEbvmAs1yBaIjAkDKEa1M_g2b-iHtY7KI7tPySW57vm70yE/s1209/20230721_185022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyQoJovcrUUvODucGCdhHnXVV97sgyI1lEkIsLQYVKWlgkrksicTB2hZ9xpDwgtIo2JWzLv67YDokm6fdfBa_MRH_2PB6yuBj7Lomt4U7NFrOYNbKyWSTqQtg--ymNTe5JP_Ro9O-pjdKUmEbvmAs1yBaIjAkDKEa1M_g2b-iHtY7KI7tPySW57vm70yE/s320/20230721_185022.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpiBY-b-4OGhHGifWQRTO9MdqeAcX8Kusnbx0eY_kDmYkyop7E2ZfwYIvlKlmIDwc4HIyMMBpYKIVnNBpnsCZRnasKYG4IPHCsMNS6KFKMdlNbmbnVt_5qKyqPfuZvpUb6snbQhSu-wP4ddWyHjyFJQjO2dgfj8SSNCYEoPCwmCC3tNU0yDArXjwDpbAY/s1209/20230721_185058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpiBY-b-4OGhHGifWQRTO9MdqeAcX8Kusnbx0eY_kDmYkyop7E2ZfwYIvlKlmIDwc4HIyMMBpYKIVnNBpnsCZRnasKYG4IPHCsMNS6KFKMdlNbmbnVt_5qKyqPfuZvpUb6snbQhSu-wP4ddWyHjyFJQjO2dgfj8SSNCYEoPCwmCC3tNU0yDArXjwDpbAY/s320/20230721_185058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passeggiamo ancora un po' tra le vie dei mercati, anche se è quasi orario di chiusura e molte saracinesche sono abbassate.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoCcKJwzQpAWhhO1DX60oEYgjeDWI7YXnrPbYu09NhC0Lc41z1WuQbmnhvddx8WDhe2YOXwxl-haJF0TtrxEKP96bMiFkVoHZOR3xdp8v1B6HdXPXoJVYEOUODjakQknRYp6hlwEL3JlXXMV_zzmxRkrEysCNF4xpNRkKibHN0U6kt3bt5dl1JJfbvBzY/s1209/20230721_185442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoCcKJwzQpAWhhO1DX60oEYgjeDWI7YXnrPbYu09NhC0Lc41z1WuQbmnhvddx8WDhe2YOXwxl-haJF0TtrxEKP96bMiFkVoHZOR3xdp8v1B6HdXPXoJVYEOUODjakQknRYp6hlwEL3JlXXMV_zzmxRkrEysCNF4xpNRkKibHN0U6kt3bt5dl1JJfbvBzY/s320/20230721_185442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTy-ehluI-2ZIPIZQJYaXUZG8ij9V6l6WnKSJF8TVQT9BHSmR5Be8p-JmsecPtcgTVUkEIGN5K1Az_hQUesjXkzwsrLDK57x_fsI7sAWtel5Gm_B7ksysCVT8CQtmbU2ZLGRjyEohHSCuWx9N3tV05zTFVo7fB_h-PXSeQ3W2MC6FnriVsNqyVdYaSjYc/s1209/20230721_185521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTy-ehluI-2ZIPIZQJYaXUZG8ij9V6l6WnKSJF8TVQT9BHSmR5Be8p-JmsecPtcgTVUkEIGN5K1Az_hQUesjXkzwsrLDK57x_fsI7sAWtel5Gm_B7ksysCVT8CQtmbU2ZLGRjyEohHSCuWx9N3tV05zTFVo7fB_h-PXSeQ3W2MC6FnriVsNqyVdYaSjYc/s320/20230721_185521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGQclsQvdpt36_Pw_v3qIzbJO2bOSUJBbAa3E1gY2INySAcz448p82p82VpL0XneVRWUWrz8fgxj4D7QKh-5Y5kbwHPEgu5or3cq4i6KQpTYRBha5laFAJ1x3OdKZgYIpSCY3t65QVk7nAORFphmXJSYFuuaS-LBJ6ifTfH3WZ61zKwPjAsMMvqmPa7Sg/s1209/20230721_185526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGQclsQvdpt36_Pw_v3qIzbJO2bOSUJBbAa3E1gY2INySAcz448p82p82VpL0XneVRWUWrz8fgxj4D7QKh-5Y5kbwHPEgu5or3cq4i6KQpTYRBha5laFAJ1x3OdKZgYIpSCY3t65QVk7nAORFphmXJSYFuuaS-LBJ6ifTfH3WZ61zKwPjAsMMvqmPa7Sg/s320/20230721_185526.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyY8ctPE84j3VqFDhjAJKcha8tOLF4EnvKEsgZdeDI7lG_rEORdR46r544Mm-yTVIQAZ52JhobkgnEi4PBtJVgz5vNJY9rcb2AAh6WuzFIJ96L_z3tX7kqYvuTzW5LMZO1nB0CHu-LfyUmmL9zooiRyd9UfCpqqCL8f1ue6fPo1aY_yDdDquoHFSvuXio/s1209/20230721_185617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyY8ctPE84j3VqFDhjAJKcha8tOLF4EnvKEsgZdeDI7lG_rEORdR46r544Mm-yTVIQAZ52JhobkgnEi4PBtJVgz5vNJY9rcb2AAh6WuzFIJ96L_z3tX7kqYvuTzW5LMZO1nB0CHu-LfyUmmL9zooiRyd9UfCpqqCL8f1ue6fPo1aY_yDdDquoHFSvuXio/s320/20230721_185617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6wO82E_ujPKHEcVUy_s1QvIEFezk_0aF9v84qXl1fGspX55wG6uiEoVamSeHo-vXlJ32rJ-Ku-JYsAMBheipdOZ7sBwj0QLhpyyAE5WWlNzGoLQyo5rUYMuDKaY8HLubGSunbPSI0MqWlG7ypb0p3VqTxmKP7Rdc8qIBTk-xUUw_rUXO2g2jaFmw6W8/s1209/20230721_185732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh6wO82E_ujPKHEcVUy_s1QvIEFezk_0aF9v84qXl1fGspX55wG6uiEoVamSeHo-vXlJ32rJ-Ku-JYsAMBheipdOZ7sBwj0QLhpyyAE5WWlNzGoLQyo5rUYMuDKaY8HLubGSunbPSI0MqWlG7ypb0p3VqTxmKP7Rdc8qIBTk-xUUw_rUXO2g2jaFmw6W8/s320/20230721_185732.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi lascio decidere a Gigi dove cenare, e opta per un pizzeria che, come sempre qui, fa anche alette di pollo e altre cosine da spizzicare. Lui va di pizza, io di alette. Scopriamo anche che è il punto di sosta dei numerosi bimbi ambulanti che vendono cioccolatini o caramelle da un grosso catino. Qui trovano una sedia, aria condizionata e un bagno, oltrechè una tv accesa su commedie statunitensi di bassa lega, sparate a tutto volume. Contano le monetine guadagnate, stanno un attimo e poi ripartono per il turno serale.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoxNHqdyr3eL8SdJAbJu5lXv_MJBFnKaNkwgycR556QezY90oJxuc2GX1xNBP0A499pNrenYZNWtjpOsOwgkFrS0zJjEPkaKaDRY60BieBS6HHmSGIzwohSRaRukBYPqSgcwxupR-n3atOORLGmxvuj9I2xRFtp6DjN8O-fD8w-5FsotiponbqH03dHw/s1209/20230721_191735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifoxNHqdyr3eL8SdJAbJu5lXv_MJBFnKaNkwgycR556QezY90oJxuc2GX1xNBP0A499pNrenYZNWtjpOsOwgkFrS0zJjEPkaKaDRY60BieBS6HHmSGIzwohSRaRukBYPqSgcwxupR-n3atOORLGmxvuj9I2xRFtp6DjN8O-fD8w-5FsotiponbqH03dHw/s320/20230721_191735.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oltre alla cultura matriarcale, di Tehuantepec mi stupisce l'atavica rivalità con Juchitan, che deriva da quando i Tehuani tradirono le forze messicane alleandosi a quelle francesi di Napoleone III. Da Juchitan non hanno mai perdonato questo voltafaccia, e le due città si sminuiscono a vicenda, si deridono, sostengono che l'altra abbia uomini brutti e donne vestite male, che l'una non sappia far niente rispetto all'altra. Si sfidano a suon di feste, in gara a chi organizza le più grandi, colorate, divertenti. Allora il campanilismo tra vicini non è solo cosa italica!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Torniamo in stanza dopo un'ultima passeggiata. Domani, dopo qualche kilometro finale di istmo, arriveremo finalmente sulla meravigliosa costa del Pacifico. Potrò tirar fuoi di nuovo il costume da bagno! Il primo tratto è abbastanza selvaggio e spopolato. Infatti puntiamo all'unico paesino a distanza giusta per una tappa di giornata, poco sopra ai 100km. Ha due strutture, ma una, quella che sembrava più sul nostro target, mi insospettiva perchè tutti i social, prima molto attivi, sono fermi da un anno e mezzo. E' una sorta di posada-rancho-ristorante lungo la strada, noto per i motoraduni e l'accoglienza ai viaggiatori su due ruote. Ma questo silenzio... Faccio qualche ricerca, e scopro che il proprietario è stato ammazzato a colpi di pistola da una gang rivale, durante un regolamento di conti. Apperò! Quindi prendo contatti con l'altra struttura, che è gestita da una comunità di etnia chontal, e ci accordiamo sul prezzo. Ergo, domani si dorme sulla spiaggia! Non vedo l'ora! </div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-51923194080623660652023-07-19T08:00:00.001+02:002023-07-19T08:00:11.256+02:0025-27. Universo Chiapas. Zapatisti, indigeni, sacrifici di sangue in chiesa e... coccodrilli!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyoIHlnXW58TbqL_p7__YDRYgsgfLWL_j4ZYU9Blu4Cx14N6BuyPCQFN8LR4J5JoVSt-c9jBtnSu0W1-c2UYNDSbSiboSYha9WMozdeWL7yT14GEnsD-UnapCNl9pqLwc13kFc1_AsGcZiML3nWwdQbCB6IT2mSUSdSM0lFz5IESGUSvKu3Uy6_-8Uz54/s1209/20230718_094909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyoIHlnXW58TbqL_p7__YDRYgsgfLWL_j4ZYU9Blu4Cx14N6BuyPCQFN8LR4J5JoVSt-c9jBtnSu0W1-c2UYNDSbSiboSYha9WMozdeWL7yT14GEnsD-UnapCNl9pqLwc13kFc1_AsGcZiML3nWwdQbCB6IT2mSUSdSM0lFz5IESGUSvKu3Uy6_-8Uz54/w640-h480/20230718_094909.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0c3UItGT_YjgoYtmBwgxhmuKZb98gujwoMGnWOalOrruuhGLad0iTsSuF3wFGeWJmUJOGbxLntPiZE9ULmFKK6PBDnycoTPHS_LKxQHgy7YOqb8QIlpRCYQq9HVNFBxdez6NUjd9iovwuUt_-rH8b2MqzC5YMq5qoX2ZAcZaDqjRjB-smX7MCMHzhK8/s979/20230718_100646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">16/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Palenque-San Cristobal de las Casas</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Questa foto è stata scattata mezzora prima della partenza al terminal dei bus di Palenque, mentre attendevamo con trepidazione indicazioni sull'eventuale necessità di smontare (tanto o poco) le bici e pagare (tanto o poco) una propina all'autista, el jefe.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsvVEmwje2idm6OghidW_zU3NzvuJkWT_inEL_6F7cURltkjEzcdspvLooSGWCPfOa6bRAgcX-PwcLGTwd7oCcatVOG0zfRzRpW3DXW4EJzhSdwOccuh1TVnYiK8eekxwZGOOfC6ld0_85pxPgFy2w8o4M7v2S1EDfoEGrLGKuJGhCX5RKCxTFym2PTbc/s1209/20230715_221334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsvVEmwje2idm6OghidW_zU3NzvuJkWT_inEL_6F7cURltkjEzcdspvLooSGWCPfOa6bRAgcX-PwcLGTwd7oCcatVOG0zfRzRpW3DXW4EJzhSdwOccuh1TVnYiK8eekxwZGOOfC6ld0_85pxPgFy2w8o4M7v2S1EDfoEGrLGKuJGhCX5RKCxTFym2PTbc/s320/20230715_221334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quest'altra foto, invece, è stata scattata circa 10 ore dopo, al nostro sbarco in quel di San Cristobal, dopo una notte a dir poco rocambolesca. L'idea dell'autobus notturno presenta dei vantaggi: non si spreca tempo, si risparmia una notte d'albergo, si dorme comunque. E' tutto vero, tranne l'ultima affermazione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHk04c3_n-Y5rvJMhnzdbNMlMup0Rw_lVgNwRk2Trf5bKtuCAhx2uAVVR2F_8cNB8w_ZgEdtDg3OBxnNarDzcF-Q9dlVw0EZguwYd0z254w4qttR_uVsf8Lsm0sNBxo_LACLS5owZb91vBEgE8wo9Z_2kWdcGMIaZZE-nLTemLUB3iptiGf0ftk0Jj1s0/s1209/20230716_072032.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHk04c3_n-Y5rvJMhnzdbNMlMup0Rw_lVgNwRk2Trf5bKtuCAhx2uAVVR2F_8cNB8w_ZgEdtDg3OBxnNarDzcF-Q9dlVw0EZguwYd0z254w4qttR_uVsf8Lsm0sNBxo_LACLS5owZb91vBEgE8wo9Z_2kWdcGMIaZZE-nLTemLUB3iptiGf0ftk0Jj1s0/s320/20230716_072032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Di buono c'è che non abbiamo minimamente dovuto smontare le bici. Le abbiamo caricate noi, con le dovute cure, e le abbiamo anche legate, insieme alle borse rimaste nella stiva, con la mia catena lunga. Erano impossibili da rubare, se non facendo un grandissimo casino. Una volta imbarcati, ci siamo comodamente alloggiati nei nostri posti, in fondo, salvo poi allargarci perchè il bus era mezzo vuoto. Io ho preso una Tachipirina perchè ieri sera bruciavo di febbre e stavo veramente malino, con il raffreddore prepotente e quel malditutto che prende la testa, la schiena, le ossa e i muscoli. Dopo una prima sudata, ero pronta a ronfare bellamente, senonchè dentro al bus l'aria condizionata era sparata al massimo, e ci saranno stati 10 gradi sì e no. Quindi, dopo un po' di appisolamento più simile al coma di ipotermia, mi son convinta a recuperare i vestiti pesanti, compresi cappello di lana e piumino, smontando la roccaforte costruita per evitare furti a bordo che, a quanto pare, sono abbastanza diffusi (per quanto io ho avuto tutt'altra impressione... Gli altri passeggeri erano o turisti o famiglie benestanti -altrimenti mica viaggerebbero sugli autobus primera clase...). Risolto il problema del freddo, si è presentato quello dei controlli. Avendo fatto una strada lunga e tortuosa, via Villahermosa e Tuxtla, siamo stati fermati un numero indefinito di volte ai posti di blocco. Sempre saliva una guardia con la torcia, chiedeva il passaporto, cercava il timbro dell'ingresso regolare nel paese e in alcuni casi scattava una foto al passeggero con in mano il passaporto aperto. Il tutto svegliandoci all'improvviso e trovandoci rincoglioniti e quasi incapaci di intendere e di volere. Mamma mia, che ansia! Ogni volta ci voleva un po' per capire se fosse un assalto dei bandidos o un controllo di rito. In ogni caso, vuoi per la febbrina, vuoi per la stanchezza, io sono riuscita a dormire abbastanza, e il viaggio non è parso lungo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Arrivati al terminal ADO di San Cristobal, ci è voluto un po' prima di riuscire a rimontare tutto, e a connettere i neuroni, impostare la strada per l'ostello e districarsi tra le molte, incuriosite, domande dell'autista e degli addetti ai bagagli. Già nel kilometro e mezzo che ci separa dall'ostello percepiamo l'atmosfera nuova di questa città magica. Innanzitutto, fa fresco. Siamo a 2200m e la caldazza che ci ha oppressi fino a poche ore fa si è completamente dissolta. Questo sbalzo termico di una ventina di gradi ci rimbabisce ulteriormente. Abbiamo freddo, poi caldino, poi freddissimo. Ma ci abitueremo, e sicuramente le temperature qui sono più umane. Poi, la città ci appare pulita, tranquilla, quasi deserta ancora, in queste prima ore di una domenica mattina. Ci sono case e negozi colorati, cani acciambellati al sole e pochissime auto. Le persone a piedi, molte della quali vestite con abiti tzotzil e tzeltal, ci salutano. Insomma, il primo impatto è più che ottimo!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVsejPljlGAeauac0ds3CEiVoPart79ck2n7CY3VcAHRYv1BKQyykVDIfl0-k61NmeIKYU6rF3FLBXZJMW8lFGDM_mjhOIxpal9-V66i7deQAkSxpNqaLmmfYvTpBU1efB2gWQw0auOSA01asbhCI4SQ6f3E_fVMq4sr_aeMIysMZ6cv18Wp4c0TafRA/s1209/20230716_074744.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVsejPljlGAeauac0ds3CEiVoPart79ck2n7CY3VcAHRYv1BKQyykVDIfl0-k61NmeIKYU6rF3FLBXZJMW8lFGDM_mjhOIxpal9-V66i7deQAkSxpNqaLmmfYvTpBU1efB2gWQw0auOSA01asbhCI4SQ6f3E_fVMq4sr_aeMIysMZ6cv18Wp4c0TafRA/s320/20230716_074744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Anche l'ostello (Planet Hostel, su Booking, 10 euro a notte per la camera privata) si presenta subito benissimo. Innanzitutto davvero facciamo check-in alle 8 del mattino e abbiamo la stanza già dal mattino, cosa mai vista. In secondo luogo, la struttura è fantastica: ha sia camerate sia stanze private con bagno, e spazi comuni curati in ogni dettaglio, dai salottini alla cucina, dalla common room con il caminetto (che sì, la sera fa piacere) e i giochi da tavolo, al terrazzo. C'è anche un servizio di lavanderia di cui ci serviremo sicuramente. Il personale è gentilissimo e simpatico, molto giovane, come la gran parte degli ospiti. E' un posto un po' fricchettone, ma capiremo a breve che questo mood alternativo è una delle tante anime di San Cristobal. Dopo il giro della struttura, ci stendiamo un attimo. L'attimo dura 4 ore.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoLKfnR2yOZ0pVAV_dajjmd9zNSejGAxC92pbNWYU8h8s2IHVY_JwPYzpNxn1l9mAIXPpviabVJpHZIob1oRNz3vPOMLhN8YAAMKI9uena8LUpkxXARPUz1ns0mv8ksUXigZC4Do1U1IEpm59z-L0_0MZS8WDhInOXOhZFhRcCV-c4L0w3NzIpqzyFswI/s1209/20230716_115947.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoLKfnR2yOZ0pVAV_dajjmd9zNSejGAxC92pbNWYU8h8s2IHVY_JwPYzpNxn1l9mAIXPpviabVJpHZIob1oRNz3vPOMLhN8YAAMKI9uena8LUpkxXARPUz1ns0mv8ksUXigZC4Do1U1IEpm59z-L0_0MZS8WDhInOXOhZFhRcCV-c4L0w3NzIpqzyFswI/s320/20230716_115947.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2IxbTsNEspecyJEop-JiRwQaRFJaHgqPPNynLFs3VKP6l1C45x3ONcEd0luHxIb5Z9K4Mec9Im23BdlRMqIGKyRL4O1Yy1-lkLNWOordJNOsfcaxNIXtBL6aoH7LuPs7qY3pHLSKvR6hXwKn2-KwqcOELyaVe4yWWGEJkO435VLEQul1taDmg1LDGKA/s1209/20230716_115957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2IxbTsNEspecyJEop-JiRwQaRFJaHgqPPNynLFs3VKP6l1C45x3ONcEd0luHxIb5Z9K4Mec9Im23BdlRMqIGKyRL4O1Yy1-lkLNWOordJNOsfcaxNIXtBL6aoH7LuPs7qY3pHLSKvR6hXwKn2-KwqcOELyaVe4yWWGEJkO435VLEQul1taDmg1LDGKA/s320/20230716_115957.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBgYkZBbfdZcWOzJv37fZiYgrCYCrzAb4SHIPfmzCwrJZ32G_05NeaxJ8DTc65B3cyaqJ4C3UEtDmUllwdjfZ0cCa-mrcRFVze_HW4HjyqVgKrT19fGyTdnub7UBQC5NalFsBQQGnDO_UNfiFvkujEdQo2gK_w3lp6GadSyAVGADYgOk_-9LzwHvqPG0/s1209/20230716_120310.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBgYkZBbfdZcWOzJv37fZiYgrCYCrzAb4SHIPfmzCwrJZ32G_05NeaxJ8DTc65B3cyaqJ4C3UEtDmUllwdjfZ0cCa-mrcRFVze_HW4HjyqVgKrT19fGyTdnub7UBQC5NalFsBQQGnDO_UNfiFvkujEdQo2gK_w3lp6GadSyAVGADYgOk_-9LzwHvqPG0/s320/20230716_120310.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRHX4jZZvj1Vh5-n1IOQs54LQonBIxnvDoh0yWCmkecxZvTMSfzVEPC8FPcOAfsPVUUASpF-yvTUHahBj-J6YjyfiPvGIhPfs7jVlqi0LV4395z1dJnIjDsCUaBQqtV5DzLgihjDD5B2rsTU-yZofPLDoz2GTujLNn4M3FuH7evRuOmPqy8Y1eDZmYLuI/s1209/20230716_120330.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRHX4jZZvj1Vh5-n1IOQs54LQonBIxnvDoh0yWCmkecxZvTMSfzVEPC8FPcOAfsPVUUASpF-yvTUHahBj-J6YjyfiPvGIhPfs7jVlqi0LV4395z1dJnIjDsCUaBQqtV5DzLgihjDD5B2rsTU-yZofPLDoz2GTujLNn4M3FuH7evRuOmPqy8Y1eDZmYLuI/s320/20230716_120330.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUYOWQwXo3i9phOCxRjgJMlz-PoOF3Vwxq0tERGWMUCmkhS-zNiDItVf9Nma0ZDye98v-cDrV57KDvYlWBvS3SvZxgEdd9Fkpgv6TgoKOV6jR2Rx_NEugFAS4A9bc73i_y4QZVnZj3q1lmv2PDkFj7Vl5KmgvQr1YEhqpWQx0oUS3bCq4Va1BbeT7xwM/s979/20230716_120358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUYOWQwXo3i9phOCxRjgJMlz-PoOF3Vwxq0tERGWMUCmkhS-zNiDItVf9Nma0ZDye98v-cDrV57KDvYlWBvS3SvZxgEdd9Fkpgv6TgoKOV6jR2Rx_NEugFAS4A9bc73i_y4QZVnZj3q1lmv2PDkFj7Vl5KmgvQr1YEhqpWQx0oUS3bCq4Va1BbeT7xwM/s320/20230716_120358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirIQuqSlmQTOF395lPO2nZFo_LQ2_IcnSkn4CQOXc2Mwc3xwfqVHU5JWeirKas67HGFR9VmCRkkdDO0Y7Ucx0dkA6HwIsPz-DeaTU4G7yCoymoUeq9MnbdKLHUk19u1RT2ZRaxEaN-fFW4mu9tXQUcUUrfRJLMUcSwy7dZcHy3wcU_QJMKsTfoNNasPnE/s1209/20230716_120409.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirIQuqSlmQTOF395lPO2nZFo_LQ2_IcnSkn4CQOXc2Mwc3xwfqVHU5JWeirKas67HGFR9VmCRkkdDO0Y7Ucx0dkA6HwIsPz-DeaTU4G7yCoymoUeq9MnbdKLHUk19u1RT2ZRaxEaN-fFW4mu9tXQUcUUrfRJLMUcSwy7dZcHy3wcU_QJMKsTfoNNasPnE/s320/20230716_120409.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbXJ4IJAnrBeBqyJSEMV7j1e6eUl2GF-DFdYPcL7Qv4s1HE8rlNFV_5v2PCbYq-syiROJq-l6__kRjH0Pk7B5eSUd4u_V8Qt0SVdJaFXVJo9NEztSLPmXOx7E1OEhV8sF01S3QDszM0gCnWf0zNenX0vPuA6PYb_JUy87K1NQlvnk_Dt5aMZS9zRCl4o/s1209/20230716_120426.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbXJ4IJAnrBeBqyJSEMV7j1e6eUl2GF-DFdYPcL7Qv4s1HE8rlNFV_5v2PCbYq-syiROJq-l6__kRjH0Pk7B5eSUd4u_V8Qt0SVdJaFXVJo9NEztSLPmXOx7E1OEhV8sF01S3QDszM0gCnWf0zNenX0vPuA6PYb_JUy87K1NQlvnk_Dt5aMZS9zRCl4o/s320/20230716_120426.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZSymJ1ybUENd-SrMd7OphVEm6gNE07WKYGwPvvZ18ZHO3UgRA7zoRXiuwqw3iwky1-8n8_cZ1IFoQ6E5tHVOzKs748ddi7Zik3P4Kca6iuoGcTNE1kq-eHgL_CGd-s8_05yW_NjGr1ol6G6X7LMN_T0tfm6wpkbl8DKs9uiyZ-1agJ1u92lhiDWIADs/s1209/20230716_120442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxZSymJ1ybUENd-SrMd7OphVEm6gNE07WKYGwPvvZ18ZHO3UgRA7zoRXiuwqw3iwky1-8n8_cZ1IFoQ6E5tHVOzKs748ddi7Zik3P4Kca6iuoGcTNE1kq-eHgL_CGd-s8_05yW_NjGr1ol6G6X7LMN_T0tfm6wpkbl8DKs9uiyZ-1agJ1u92lhiDWIADs/s320/20230716_120442.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR96Ii5dbAV6z-MtPLfvnzuSBO5ijRjxhKu3RUqZ1Xa8XG7OmExL7O_lvrJtrTO29k5iqwtIwgJ6-2HAM1vimukqjP7Wf5iPVnNDon5tJfYclro5JY1LVBij8f1cpWrwzMI-ZuQma5_1Q_ECpTVAXtQ27MfBY-gUfZ0K5PWCKlfRwnSXXfGHJM1S6t2NM/s1209/20230716_120609.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR96Ii5dbAV6z-MtPLfvnzuSBO5ijRjxhKu3RUqZ1Xa8XG7OmExL7O_lvrJtrTO29k5iqwtIwgJ6-2HAM1vimukqjP7Wf5iPVnNDon5tJfYclro5JY1LVBij8f1cpWrwzMI-ZuQma5_1Q_ECpTVAXtQ27MfBY-gUfZ0K5PWCKlfRwnSXXfGHJM1S6t2NM/s320/20230716_120609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A mezzogiorno, dopo aver goduto delle calde coperte multistrato che ricordano tanto quelle peruane, ci par bene uscire ad esplorare questa meravigliosa città. Già dopo un giorno posso dire che, finora, è il luogo del Messico che più mi ha incantata. Oltretutto siamo nella settimana di festa patronale, ed oggi c'è il mondo per le vie e nelle piazze, musica ovunque e fuochi d'artificio dal mattino a notte. Ma andiamo con ordine. Usciamo un po' storditi (io sono tutt'altro che in forma e ho ancora febbre), spinti più dal desiderio di vedere cosa ci sia fuori che non dalla effettiva forza di deambulare. So, comunque, che il centro è piuttosto piccolo e compatto e la visita delle principali zone non richiede grandi risorse. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRbNOsjl3ijNg37dtZBsRhy8BK-3jk6-Da-EEe_KKSm8gEXJiVS6yb1eR6WUUO3EVPb_rkZQoPrSRip8TtFr9BMU-7GU_I-M-EL4B0H5CnLuHC53WvN7y_Mkrh3b2QpDC4Am5lnIG3YbaPvFrs7jRknWINoLQbHwEPhiPunizj-iDjXwsz5_Yb_3n-rU/s1209/20230716_121626.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRbNOsjl3ijNg37dtZBsRhy8BK-3jk6-Da-EEe_KKSm8gEXJiVS6yb1eR6WUUO3EVPb_rkZQoPrSRip8TtFr9BMU-7GU_I-M-EL4B0H5CnLuHC53WvN7y_Mkrh3b2QpDC4Am5lnIG3YbaPvFrs7jRknWINoLQbHwEPhiPunizj-iDjXwsz5_Yb_3n-rU/s320/20230716_121626.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-cP_6XM-_dzx2cq-LQVCqE4xfT0QpQub1UlqNNZru6r8X94Y8_-XZ6obURnMXOleB4Xv4nSpohzmeO1VvOnSlzv-R_2T_RDIdO1mOsoDmQoUGIl1NhRdsEwGqNLaVRBOdUqOcBw_yleJb5-BRDaKUhjp_oQn-ZjVfLi87SI-8Cb-wXRr-idnG1AEOVA/s1209/20230716_121718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-cP_6XM-_dzx2cq-LQVCqE4xfT0QpQub1UlqNNZru6r8X94Y8_-XZ6obURnMXOleB4Xv4nSpohzmeO1VvOnSlzv-R_2T_RDIdO1mOsoDmQoUGIl1NhRdsEwGqNLaVRBOdUqOcBw_yleJb5-BRDaKUhjp_oQn-ZjVfLi87SI-8Cb-wXRr-idnG1AEOVA/s320/20230716_121718.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2oydKD2cgyWpR2rQQTVAD9Y9Zck9VQxaJ_mAoLjDKbq8o3g7Pz3-io_ab87H0TuIllF6A8T49sIZ5ITj1R_px7Q-oSL88Nn3XfSSIlnWfd2z4bVPzGrVRu6qAbXTGIYZ6eUD12FGR8MLSdsCC_XFUQnvqHb9qhGmVaPaXkLFo5U1wf5RHMraonkKXmjE/s1209/20230716_121930.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2oydKD2cgyWpR2rQQTVAD9Y9Zck9VQxaJ_mAoLjDKbq8o3g7Pz3-io_ab87H0TuIllF6A8T49sIZ5ITj1R_px7Q-oSL88Nn3XfSSIlnWfd2z4bVPzGrVRu6qAbXTGIYZ6eUD12FGR8MLSdsCC_XFUQnvqHb9qhGmVaPaXkLFo5U1wf5RHMraonkKXmjE/s320/20230716_121930.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5VNipvDnn6aBuDWoxeHQxiWM3vwdrCmyAUwQ4fJAedVpsXfMfwE0FfAv3kqOWa8GXscQxSYss04KsXXfSNvXQXkEEIW4tvFUGilWUEIzDxDomBwOadiC1Hj5v3aBpjPE9f2weZl7rx329oMzWJSZ4mfcbl3qopghB1rVHmwPCpOKK5vtPZynF_2C-LYs/s1209/20230716_122352.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5VNipvDnn6aBuDWoxeHQxiWM3vwdrCmyAUwQ4fJAedVpsXfMfwE0FfAv3kqOWa8GXscQxSYss04KsXXfSNvXQXkEEIW4tvFUGilWUEIzDxDomBwOadiC1Hj5v3aBpjPE9f2weZl7rx329oMzWJSZ4mfcbl3qopghB1rVHmwPCpOKK5vtPZynF_2C-LYs/s320/20230716_122352.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Subito notiamo una grande differenza rispetto alle altre città finora visitate: è molto più turistica, ma senza quegli eccessi in stile Cancun. Ci sono locali, strade pedonali, ristorantini, negozi di ogni genere. Il filo conduttore, come dicevo, è quello un po' dell'alternativo, del bohemien, dell'artista giramondo. Questo si legge nell'estetica degli esercizi commerciali, in ciò che propongono (è tutto bio, tutto organico, tutto spirituale, meditativo, natural, eco, olistico, equo ecc, ci siam capiti), ma pure nella gente che si vede per strada. Oltre ai nativi, di cui parlo tra un momento, ci sono tanti volti che di indigeno non hanno nulla, ma vivono qui, vendono cose per strada, o propongono la loro arte, che siano quadri, foto o musica. Ed è incredibile come questa vena un po' radical chic, un po' hippie, un po' anarchica, si fonda senza grossi problemi con l'altra grande componente, quella indigena. Qui a San Cristobal sono quasi tutti di etnia tzotzil e tzeltal, e si riconoscono per i loro abiti finemente ricamati e dal significato simbolico molto preciso, che indica il villaggio di provenienza e lo status sociale. Sono cristiani, ma nella loro fede sono rimasti elementi preispanici (ne avremo misura domani, visitando San Juan Chamula, dove nella chiesa si sgozzano polli e si fanno riti a base di Coca Cola e pox -bevanda alcolica- per ruttare fuori gli spiriti maligni).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Hepc3dFRuRvK3M-Zu8brM4_iLo_EtjyhgnD6X0tHd_Gaeu5N1RATIum-3gK2u32XVtZwCu-HbNzLmU4IyGV_skEhJH1SPJzawmz825zW05dTfepy_Io83nKnbDZkDcqNjuqj5izYlj8opr80tpr1f2UBqd2zeRpnoNxku5A9sNqUjvFGG6JXRcEb-ok/s1209/20230716_122502.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Hepc3dFRuRvK3M-Zu8brM4_iLo_EtjyhgnD6X0tHd_Gaeu5N1RATIum-3gK2u32XVtZwCu-HbNzLmU4IyGV_skEhJH1SPJzawmz825zW05dTfepy_Io83nKnbDZkDcqNjuqj5izYlj8opr80tpr1f2UBqd2zeRpnoNxku5A9sNqUjvFGG6JXRcEb-ok/s320/20230716_122502.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWb9ZA8NonZ6wYJHH-P1U74veVUJCOiRRv_4w7OqT3rE_T7T6TzKXqIoPqzbQyyTd96Yp-lZsWszHJ2bNQUkbQnNS1zj-l9s9xLz3CdRwhlCpxbb8aFb6tjoettBY89K9s73OsJkal96SFIAMEZy3pgLFKGlhooBLlP7vhP74CYU-VM8DvAekQpzvn0bQ/s1209/20230716_122628.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWb9ZA8NonZ6wYJHH-P1U74veVUJCOiRRv_4w7OqT3rE_T7T6TzKXqIoPqzbQyyTd96Yp-lZsWszHJ2bNQUkbQnNS1zj-l9s9xLz3CdRwhlCpxbb8aFb6tjoettBY89K9s73OsJkal96SFIAMEZy3pgLFKGlhooBLlP7vhP74CYU-VM8DvAekQpzvn0bQ/s320/20230716_122628.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Queste persone hanno cominciato a trasferirsi dai villaggi a San Cristobal a partire dagli anni '70, quando il turismo ha iniziato a fiorire. I più vivono nel cosiddetto Cinturon de Miseria, colonie improvvisate, prive di servizi e afflitte da povertà e violenza, dove corre la circonvallazione cittadina. Non solo si sono trasferiti qui sperando di guadagnare qualcosa dal turismo, ma anche perchè molti sono stati espulsi dai villaggi, come Chamula, in seguito a conflitti interni politico-religiosi. Ora li si vede, dai bimbi agli anziani, donne e uomini, percorrere le strade centrali di San Cristobal cercando di vendere qualcosa. In primis tessuti ricamati, abiti, cinture, peluches e pupazzetti di stoffa. Poi cibo: panini, dolcetti, frutta, popocorn e chapulines, le piccole cavallette essiccate e condite con peperoncino, che vendono vendute in grossi secchi. Oppure ancora statuette di animali, spesso fatte con materiale di recupero e tanta fantasia, collanine, gocce d'ambra, che in Chiapas non manca, e incenso. Alcuni sono ambulanti, altri hanno un banchetto nei molteplici mercati.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Prima di tutto, dopo aver percorso qualche via pedonale, ci buttiamo in una delle molte caffetterie e cioccolaterie che propongono prodotti regionali, per svegliarci un po' e tornare al mondo. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1DFGkaTGgpXK2gDYSdwwRLjuFLniauseHINfVXgqtPmDuyAQZWxsQbAs8nwE9EDJ3Ch5nktbbu4gpGE7FwqxbC96G3IGezgg2FcbZg_qpaZ2AzwCjvjpht_OLRP3-xQht0zJn2_QkdoPMD83TrXV0ajWaNeP-tvyq6-e1GdxyWn98kHHxXDMMhCFhMQ/s1209/20230716_124417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1DFGkaTGgpXK2gDYSdwwRLjuFLniauseHINfVXgqtPmDuyAQZWxsQbAs8nwE9EDJ3Ch5nktbbu4gpGE7FwqxbC96G3IGezgg2FcbZg_qpaZ2AzwCjvjpht_OLRP3-xQht0zJn2_QkdoPMD83TrXV0ajWaNeP-tvyq6-e1GdxyWn98kHHxXDMMhCFhMQ/s320/20230716_124417.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Yf-c0e3VXC9y2X4iSwGDJw6869R0hwyrQ65dksgz7jWsU6Uh0OWiyPTI1Wm9_SiD4vvOLukOqK1Acz1B2HKFEfyRlrMrUylvVrMw0v2MVn3R-vxA2v7fHWhVT5EXL2dX14CESXMqhxE5jeGnownWMY7ZJGIP-hTAWiIDwS5e1b2yHCbsNYrVbjr504E/s1209/20230716_124423.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Yf-c0e3VXC9y2X4iSwGDJw6869R0hwyrQ65dksgz7jWsU6Uh0OWiyPTI1Wm9_SiD4vvOLukOqK1Acz1B2HKFEfyRlrMrUylvVrMw0v2MVn3R-vxA2v7fHWhVT5EXL2dX14CESXMqhxE5jeGnownWMY7ZJGIP-hTAWiIDwS5e1b2yHCbsNYrVbjr504E/s320/20230716_124423.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi inizia la visita, a partire dalla piazza centrale, plaza 31 de marzo. Lustrascarpe, ambulantes e localini animano questo luogo, su cui si affaccia un edificio costruito da Diego de Mazariegos, conquistador spagnolo del Chiapas, oggi hotel. Tutt'intorno succedono cose: un concerto, un comizio politico, un'insieme di microrappresentazioni di strada per raccattare qualche monetina.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyoB_7GNC9D6kAwyCmiWm43-78yMi1EejBh3a-5zk-hO7NUoqTZeyLlKEHzHWjuQ50BO0GGMWDLlgWptlu95lhWo1mZN1LKfTVb0Rc6MU7z8Dm-vQgQbziqddLTbp-QQv6Q8ZNMPs61zVi1oWQNbiHT4JY9K-ew8TyRP233GR_aenmYdoNUujieNI6ZE/s1209/20230716_131809.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpyoB_7GNC9D6kAwyCmiWm43-78yMi1EejBh3a-5zk-hO7NUoqTZeyLlKEHzHWjuQ50BO0GGMWDLlgWptlu95lhWo1mZN1LKfTVb0Rc6MU7z8Dm-vQgQbziqddLTbp-QQv6Q8ZNMPs61zVi1oWQNbiHT4JY9K-ew8TyRP233GR_aenmYdoNUujieNI6ZE/s320/20230716_131809.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgccLvYeYO8ChbyW_l32wikZRiR6kTU5c-F9EPKNx5oDjGlOAVgHBnYKB1k-cGSRDLthMpds1DdGHGbN3NPu8GuwiYbEgQbWPDyZnVAReuJoSVXz8t2AA9fvMwyEDUrB4kIj3cRfuX-pxHZSVR4Dozvf18ntw-VPhzHO9WhjiMiP_rg5d2KaJahIRdURuE/s1209/20230716_131823.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgccLvYeYO8ChbyW_l32wikZRiR6kTU5c-F9EPKNx5oDjGlOAVgHBnYKB1k-cGSRDLthMpds1DdGHGbN3NPu8GuwiYbEgQbWPDyZnVAReuJoSVXz8t2AA9fvMwyEDUrB4kIj3cRfuX-pxHZSVR4Dozvf18ntw-VPhzHO9WhjiMiP_rg5d2KaJahIRdURuE/s320/20230716_131823.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdxg0CO7jRzUfu1ZvEjCAQUummp3QB3583F_PT0Aj-YLN5ZU66G9Ho6A42A2McpGen2vjGYFoLlIfTGbr86JSkqju2Tag5tCyf-y7YgnFXJWHdHUTvS9YndErjJ1Tp9aJk2n0zcQS-LSYFUyioXp_zqdNdtwxoiVX4S7BUkHuSel9FNi26NDw3xb9qvw8/s1209/20230716_132036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdxg0CO7jRzUfu1ZvEjCAQUummp3QB3583F_PT0Aj-YLN5ZU66G9Ho6A42A2McpGen2vjGYFoLlIfTGbr86JSkqju2Tag5tCyf-y7YgnFXJWHdHUTvS9YndErjJ1Tp9aJk2n0zcQS-LSYFUyioXp_zqdNdtwxoiVX4S7BUkHuSel9FNi26NDw3xb9qvw8/s320/20230716_132036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNFhmUO7u7ruK8BRezK-TICClVI0aeouBNd_SO86ypTyJrqI8ZTo-3ZhPPjSbvGI8OxoXk1NEIS-ZQskTAxn3FZBlnNGCrlKdVk-vnCvysDTsd9uh60gEJpzftatg2BFYvFzE3vDbpCC9JdFppHxUIigJtO3iJhCldiFGwtRLNuYsQ7cqDxdpTi8JgKc/s1209/20230716_132051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNFhmUO7u7ruK8BRezK-TICClVI0aeouBNd_SO86ypTyJrqI8ZTo-3ZhPPjSbvGI8OxoXk1NEIS-ZQskTAxn3FZBlnNGCrlKdVk-vnCvysDTsd9uh60gEJpzftatg2BFYvFzE3vDbpCC9JdFppHxUIigJtO3iJhCldiFGwtRLNuYsQ7cqDxdpTi8JgKc/s320/20230716_132051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzOWKGrsobb286FTez7uVsCuR0Is6XOvc6kItitxkhE3GuuY82Ci6BGwaf7__sBhmchpPpuGmc1XhRNJuQ6-bqic3VNLkmBO0e6cLOaFanaBGUjZe0u0aGKSfDHRTX_oCFL-wa7zdUPYJahZw3O72RIvAQU14QG81uqu5Y4d_K_ve2wGtXZoE7CUKDlc/s1209/20230716_132134.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzOWKGrsobb286FTez7uVsCuR0Is6XOvc6kItitxkhE3GuuY82Ci6BGwaf7__sBhmchpPpuGmc1XhRNJuQ6-bqic3VNLkmBO0e6cLOaFanaBGUjZe0u0aGKSfDHRTX_oCFL-wa7zdUPYJahZw3O72RIvAQU14QG81uqu5Y4d_K_ve2wGtXZoE7CUKDlc/s320/20230716_132134.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtUlxK_yNSAfQaZohVlrxBv7YtDqradLuUwxtoiacRq0EBddkoTfYynM33fnqYEkMnZW2SDrXtGLRgxt-Jc5CWdSgKFbnR7WW-BXfGSRqOcy0y3DhXunZscbPcAb9tGzEYBRx4wia6WkWttWClPqPqmB6MKHS4sieEX8zWhC1bH6A6aLUi9wTBaM6W_I/s1209/20230716_132152.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtUlxK_yNSAfQaZohVlrxBv7YtDqradLuUwxtoiacRq0EBddkoTfYynM33fnqYEkMnZW2SDrXtGLRgxt-Jc5CWdSgKFbnR7WW-BXfGSRqOcy0y3DhXunZscbPcAb9tGzEYBRx4wia6WkWttWClPqPqmB6MKHS4sieEX8zWhC1bH6A6aLUi9wTBaM6W_I/s320/20230716_132152.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chapulines, le cavallette al peperoncino</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcVimVPBeVikd51NRiXWzrA8WSwek_SCWDF5N2soC49PfNvwtSTi-l7BjRsYliAB8qBcOQCQ59viW6wLcIkeQjd_TdWCQWynNznWY0lxwBKf6vWik-9YZNxsysJie0CAwqcGx4jnc-vdCkE-zs-DrVnGvhnNLmWI1Zl8qnT9nXV5PUyJtkawA1y_lt9H0/s1209/20230716_132202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcVimVPBeVikd51NRiXWzrA8WSwek_SCWDF5N2soC49PfNvwtSTi-l7BjRsYliAB8qBcOQCQ59viW6wLcIkeQjd_TdWCQWynNznWY0lxwBKf6vWik-9YZNxsysJie0CAwqcGx4jnc-vdCkE-zs-DrVnGvhnNLmWI1Zl8qnT9nXV5PUyJtkawA1y_lt9H0/s320/20230716_132202.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Su un lato della piazza si affaccia anche la cattedrale, iniziata nel 1528 e terminata solo nel 1815 a causa dei numerosi terremoti che, nei secoli, hanno colpito la zona. L'ultimo, abbastanza disastroso, si è verificato nel 2017.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8csmPYkVIHmTB7AT9_pIBMQBKEAqNdc6CJaF-i2oXvOuTgrlFYUWVU7pinWD3Gp5xAX1AkVgblkUS5FA3OxwSg_XHhwzS8O43tgRbGKXVQ5QZ5Rb2qMBNM3Pxl-2N0ml3ym3yVulkr4q7GZ-QDBTHswCpYzemuwSUgt987zmOEeyfG8rFdeuO_BfpdA/s1209/20230716_132209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8csmPYkVIHmTB7AT9_pIBMQBKEAqNdc6CJaF-i2oXvOuTgrlFYUWVU7pinWD3Gp5xAX1AkVgblkUS5FA3OxwSg_XHhwzS8O43tgRbGKXVQ5QZ5Rb2qMBNM3Pxl-2N0ml3ym3yVulkr4q7GZ-QDBTHswCpYzemuwSUgt987zmOEeyfG8rFdeuO_BfpdA/s320/20230716_132209.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwDgrJYjC0MxK7mAuA9igPZGrTviEhS6ZjXanYeY_uvQW0QGAHhpmIiApbtMoAAklNsbGy23Y6TavME6ZpMPU1O-jeXjJRyWLbe9sqDr5ZimZKMQkgdxGRFtMVFw1aC1ALlFB2Jbi2jyiEDZpjC519Uocxc_330UfdKrssmIX3XPMQoJmm_sCm2LhzzA/s1209/20230716_132244.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjwDgrJYjC0MxK7mAuA9igPZGrTviEhS6ZjXanYeY_uvQW0QGAHhpmIiApbtMoAAklNsbGy23Y6TavME6ZpMPU1O-jeXjJRyWLbe9sqDr5ZimZKMQkgdxGRFtMVFw1aC1ALlFB2Jbi2jyiEDZpjC519Uocxc_330UfdKrssmIX3XPMQoJmm_sCm2LhzzA/s320/20230716_132244.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOeGFHeG6gJjEVjBngm6zrEEsojy_sOJs3TKf1wzng_jbA57KdfgNH2JZhtDBMaIYI3UXH6SUmBlXLSXLyt_uzU97udku_sOhF6Vo_gUb11b-xy9vvw6GfM0Bb4dDA--J_n8P-d8ndr3b1PEHloUhID8BsCwU3DM-Sy78KoX7YZOepPjeglbIm6Zjc4g/s1209/20230716_132456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWOeGFHeG6gJjEVjBngm6zrEEsojy_sOJs3TKf1wzng_jbA57KdfgNH2JZhtDBMaIYI3UXH6SUmBlXLSXLyt_uzU97udku_sOhF6Vo_gUb11b-xy9vvw6GfM0Bb4dDA--J_n8P-d8ndr3b1PEHloUhID8BsCwU3DM-Sy78KoX7YZOepPjeglbIm6Zjc4g/s320/20230716_132456.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHQ-x7Z0vK73zLm62mD96axVSDPJygSMir-hricU-GycnwFORRebAc2Y6VnHsDMqD9T7TJLKoaKBrjpY7qmzn6rOFqQgqE0sq5VhBpebBJCnczhT-6Wyz3H4s69ghcBu0weHnqtNIZpRbw2VTEzi9B92mNFdlpI5F-k3mj46wOtWYv3CRNWx8zRrkS0VU/s1209/20230716_133455.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHQ-x7Z0vK73zLm62mD96axVSDPJygSMir-hricU-GycnwFORRebAc2Y6VnHsDMqD9T7TJLKoaKBrjpY7qmzn6rOFqQgqE0sq5VhBpebBJCnczhT-6Wyz3H4s69ghcBu0weHnqtNIZpRbw2VTEzi9B92mNFdlpI5F-k3mj46wOtWYv3CRNWx8zRrkS0VU/s320/20230716_133455.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Seguendo la folla, ci tuffiamo in un'altra via pedonale, strabordante di gente e di venditori di qualsiasi cosa, che esplode di colori, profumi, volti diversi. Io potrei stare qui ore ad assistere a questo spettacolo di umanità.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qpFJT9ouP8UMrxi7wbXV2cx5U6Wd2RLtjZq2_ymchQtjl_tGvcLeaNfR4gY5R4x6vwXsRsRXVSzjXGhGCOWs8yn1XiQSGIRmipta1UFa0itZzJ1toS1kf6zS7VvVK7UmPeQnSo0qjdd1ggmkhTO_pU-e2pOoGedoNyEbWWP_VOXQKTRqlXGvfralHJM/s1209/20230716_133607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qpFJT9ouP8UMrxi7wbXV2cx5U6Wd2RLtjZq2_ymchQtjl_tGvcLeaNfR4gY5R4x6vwXsRsRXVSzjXGhGCOWs8yn1XiQSGIRmipta1UFa0itZzJ1toS1kf6zS7VvVK7UmPeQnSo0qjdd1ggmkhTO_pU-e2pOoGedoNyEbWWP_VOXQKTRqlXGvfralHJM/s320/20230716_133607.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXXKzP1__wIEiC8MoGi_gUB2nM8QF8sS4c01tTBLKwod0xUrNj1vtuV6DYr0RIyTqlkpXd3kT5GZEsUlBz6M7FuE_w3WeEJoJZz0kcgroI2vbiv34EaHNBIQ2Hw_RYhabQr8RjZamXe8saaMjdAomhRu5oKc1oT1PO85I4WpOgoQcK4i5Ujk2kR5syfY/s1209/20230716_133652.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOXXKzP1__wIEiC8MoGi_gUB2nM8QF8sS4c01tTBLKwod0xUrNj1vtuV6DYr0RIyTqlkpXd3kT5GZEsUlBz6M7FuE_w3WeEJoJZz0kcgroI2vbiv34EaHNBIQ2Hw_RYhabQr8RjZamXe8saaMjdAomhRu5oKc1oT1PO85I4WpOgoQcK4i5Ujk2kR5syfY/s320/20230716_133652.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ragazzini chamula, di etnia tzotzil, con la tradizionale tunica di lana bianca</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZOygY2kh54io02YBNbYXo4NqWySBRqicxPBdAJJqI6EKrQgqxr0iayYJ_0YWa_OjJNMPPTfBRYcQ9h26QJwPCadxpqmSGO7aYwg1ElYcHbtX084HrSHd3HZNrZE9fRdn76m6LXi02Q65gyyntxNneUSgOlFQLEExS_fJ0YDmizIOKUie12gCNUzMmko0/s1209/20230716_133725.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZOygY2kh54io02YBNbYXo4NqWySBRqicxPBdAJJqI6EKrQgqxr0iayYJ_0YWa_OjJNMPPTfBRYcQ9h26QJwPCadxpqmSGO7aYwg1ElYcHbtX084HrSHd3HZNrZE9fRdn76m6LXi02Q65gyyntxNneUSgOlFQLEExS_fJ0YDmizIOKUie12gCNUzMmko0/s320/20230716_133725.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguYxR7FfNG1woFKbvhOVzbgiBdVjgMgHBkCn-YIv5AibVE1pTd0HvERCunRrufIeRAzYkChUV9lVNjLmCyDqjlMWenUsRBZievdEwgb7m4gRMVQig-ft7EQF_ytZEhmXCIQId9b6MSYCK9mcW2kC-5Qllqc3nqEj6WZCdEHQlggUxs4JjB3gdFpOBuiFo/s1209/20230716_134201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguYxR7FfNG1woFKbvhOVzbgiBdVjgMgHBkCn-YIv5AibVE1pTd0HvERCunRrufIeRAzYkChUV9lVNjLmCyDqjlMWenUsRBZievdEwgb7m4gRMVQig-ft7EQF_ytZEhmXCIQId9b6MSYCK9mcW2kC-5Qllqc3nqEj6WZCdEHQlggUxs4JjB3gdFpOBuiFo/s320/20230716_134201.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di raggiungere la nostra prossima meta, l'ex convento di san Domenico, troviamo riparo da un improvviso acquazzone in un mercato, che non è coperto, ma i banchi sono così vicini che la copertura in plastica di uno si sovrappone a quella dell'altro, creando un ambiente riparato. Anche qui la fan da padroni i ricami e l'ambra.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR-XY9HbnyGA0BUaq-vkD5QacDE6FWtnU6dftpuGk-iLXeCFM6ZRJeXQE4y0uZrNhZLzAghDtbI9kfpL9pfRjtFtuWT9O0V-GvWoxLnyNH3g9ZL3WrOQlrDMT9WvtOTBnQ9fbwnOhRTRiyeLQqazWdCsR_-nxAJF8NT56k6Su67zHQGb_KIN9AlL3TKlY/s1209/20230716_134241.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR-XY9HbnyGA0BUaq-vkD5QacDE6FWtnU6dftpuGk-iLXeCFM6ZRJeXQE4y0uZrNhZLzAghDtbI9kfpL9pfRjtFtuWT9O0V-GvWoxLnyNH3g9ZL3WrOQlrDMT9WvtOTBnQ9fbwnOhRTRiyeLQqazWdCsR_-nxAJF8NT56k6Su67zHQGb_KIN9AlL3TKlY/s320/20230716_134241.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtkHc-oC8VEuXxTknL1z3oKZKw829fBu4mVjm6-8wzxWUbyxphIxupUep1ManxSDaFfBv-Q67vnSaCTQemamAmctlBzSKr8wpIw3Dfqe-atupWXC2mcFUJubfh2u-kVcLtm0P9AOf7DXfz4j-fsMiKkdL54puEvcxd8yPkEsp2UvBlcuztS4AoR-f2VM/s1209/20230716_134245.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDtkHc-oC8VEuXxTknL1z3oKZKw829fBu4mVjm6-8wzxWUbyxphIxupUep1ManxSDaFfBv-Q67vnSaCTQemamAmctlBzSKr8wpIw3Dfqe-atupWXC2mcFUJubfh2u-kVcLtm0P9AOf7DXfz4j-fsMiKkdL54puEvcxd8yPkEsp2UvBlcuztS4AoR-f2VM/s320/20230716_134245.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOrOhG7t7VmjRJr17XcMk-kG0CUQ-3qovIecP02hiB6JeGSFJpda4AkqTvKBmD6RKcfYUrcmrdg_CnJZn4RzmJp7kXiwTj194dqeEDzONQjTjT1epgxZtuTgrcQTPk1XEKYfXeZa3hDsJKGNs2z0Rx4TXIrKxnPmSpshpzBkmNxffet7-c-rI5KRteGE/s1209/20230716_135010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOrOhG7t7VmjRJr17XcMk-kG0CUQ-3qovIecP02hiB6JeGSFJpda4AkqTvKBmD6RKcfYUrcmrdg_CnJZn4RzmJp7kXiwTj194dqeEDzONQjTjT1epgxZtuTgrcQTPk1XEKYfXeZa3hDsJKGNs2z0Rx4TXIrKxnPmSpshpzBkmNxffet7-c-rI5KRteGE/s320/20230716_135010.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Troviamo, nella babele di bancarelle, l'ingresso alla chiesa di San Domenico, con la sua facciata barocca, purtroppo coperta da impalcature, e gli stucchi del XVII secolo con l'aquila bicipite degli Asburgo, all'epoca stemma della monarchia spagnola. Gli interni sono barocchissimi e doratissimi. Ma noi veniamo attratti soprattutto dalla funzione in corso, che sta finendo. I fedeli applaudono e fischiano alle parole del celebrante, e poi, alla fine della Messa, si recano in massa ad abbracciarlo e farsi benedire. Il coro, intanto, intona melodie festose. Molti restano in ginocchio davanti all'altare, qualcuno piange.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZ7puQw3GsWZvWzOEx-2tXQioWmCGLb63B9aHHZgiEUcp7twxki0sI-4K1uZrqgOUKaiKUPsnsep-p30ppRcFDCxE3sH-kaFPtsIddlHGb4NNZBsrZlSka790C2R-3wDxbCty-KrmTHa613WhsOatI-oBtPiqcXuy-6_X8yxNqgfsGk2odZ-oP3rn_P8/s1209/20230716_135120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZ7puQw3GsWZvWzOEx-2tXQioWmCGLb63B9aHHZgiEUcp7twxki0sI-4K1uZrqgOUKaiKUPsnsep-p30ppRcFDCxE3sH-kaFPtsIddlHGb4NNZBsrZlSka790C2R-3wDxbCty-KrmTHa613WhsOatI-oBtPiqcXuy-6_X8yxNqgfsGk2odZ-oP3rn_P8/s320/20230716_135120.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhVeHz15egGxhIVpQQQqB7JrDzPtFKKpQHK2fQDcyKWnqkcVOiTcslNw-EY-VTqGfenD5nEFHlTEijXq0LLUj1M-uOVcLYDUv1AzUPH7junAEg4IYKkfZBfRwJKQ0bTOlr5ZV--9DV1ZaNqxsQmnHHJgbmp6TNXBMRMrv0qp232wuaoijnkoZuNlzSHs8/s1209/20230716_135337.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhVeHz15egGxhIVpQQQqB7JrDzPtFKKpQHK2fQDcyKWnqkcVOiTcslNw-EY-VTqGfenD5nEFHlTEijXq0LLUj1M-uOVcLYDUv1AzUPH7junAEg4IYKkfZBfRwJKQ0bTOlr5ZV--9DV1ZaNqxsQmnHHJgbmp6TNXBMRMrv0qp232wuaoijnkoZuNlzSHs8/s320/20230716_135337.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTVGSthbemiysp2aM2CgUKZ-o3Y8cNuynLxjM-x59DCU_IWn90zAfzC3ZYscxYS_R7PP3SDCYIAVn10O_fUHkcCSqsxcpaTXT5YX8O_ZxmBDkq9HKigzYyeqgBuz18Y2IRPY1vzez8DPLRfwtx0Jc6WiQ1hq8P9rZqVoiByjpSzoRkmSkL6Sf3pX2X_Q/s1209/20230716_135606.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTVGSthbemiysp2aM2CgUKZ-o3Y8cNuynLxjM-x59DCU_IWn90zAfzC3ZYscxYS_R7PP3SDCYIAVn10O_fUHkcCSqsxcpaTXT5YX8O_ZxmBDkq9HKigzYyeqgBuz18Y2IRPY1vzez8DPLRfwtx0Jc6WiQ1hq8P9rZqVoiByjpSzoRkmSkL6Sf3pX2X_Q/s320/20230716_135606.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQiR55M7Q2KNQdszKeMUeplt8qXkmNyq9_S5NBSV---cfen1s5lk8BQZ-8xTjXtjvGj8EAyT1kYL9ECtD1LzJXr4hbyugKgHf2FoVgFwQSyHtF32MovI846kzoCgKlVokIT1Hkz28CDi5zOfBWsLs2_XEWmx47OhhQW-LxQFeoWVfyEHHSDG58xdOunRs/s979/20230716_135627.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQiR55M7Q2KNQdszKeMUeplt8qXkmNyq9_S5NBSV---cfen1s5lk8BQZ-8xTjXtjvGj8EAyT1kYL9ECtD1LzJXr4hbyugKgHf2FoVgFwQSyHtF32MovI846kzoCgKlVokIT1Hkz28CDi5zOfBWsLs2_XEWmx47OhhQW-LxQFeoWVfyEHHSDG58xdOunRs/s320/20230716_135627.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1H-ahMWmeNHn6vd6Q5pdm1Y4ar19UhJ5Lwpn69LeM7X0i7SuvENfJIhp_ssUSxC6HsrvYFdlqWXMwngSe2uRU9BesXQagO1mhI1SFetaeupiYuzO7VdNjbA8AwxZzq35Go29BKmtxiMO7OibRnCR42GaTGVPbR6rEPNkLvekJeYN1Zm0vlbAjUIzw-co/s1209/20230716_135653.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1H-ahMWmeNHn6vd6Q5pdm1Y4ar19UhJ5Lwpn69LeM7X0i7SuvENfJIhp_ssUSxC6HsrvYFdlqWXMwngSe2uRU9BesXQagO1mhI1SFetaeupiYuzO7VdNjbA8AwxZzq35Go29BKmtxiMO7OibRnCR42GaTGVPbR6rEPNkLvekJeYN1Zm0vlbAjUIzw-co/s320/20230716_135653.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQewYcVuDr8O7JD0Ojl1-WQgP4yuFBWxax8L-CN2zvDTReze2B93WA378uIzRB_G_ZBpAlByxzab1yJjddZZjEpmy72lTkOOD7e0mugnntFT7P-5EsRXxX0DKm50Vkt8SBa4fUgOEssu4GmloG6IqwwFng5IekV2XNRnx4xTEU-ylZ3YnBRMw7OpKPGlk/s1209/20230716_135715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQewYcVuDr8O7JD0Ojl1-WQgP4yuFBWxax8L-CN2zvDTReze2B93WA378uIzRB_G_ZBpAlByxzab1yJjddZZjEpmy72lTkOOD7e0mugnntFT7P-5EsRXxX0DKm50Vkt8SBa4fUgOEssu4GmloG6IqwwFng5IekV2XNRnx4xTEU-ylZ3YnBRMw7OpKPGlk/s320/20230716_135715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvW6F8bHd0sUlZKc4ay4YBdD67GsVOkFo16ESlXgoig5sKlNwkIzybTmTDvGwOtMtNHvzAPQsMMVXwgeY9i9lbIUazbo_yLDnczvezHH4wIvzNBXsJDimsdiiHyfMzZWoRVkR7FocAiGsTN7C8eygY2L53Ffm4rh1z2tVSZ8N39szqy39FOV4nzafDXiY/s1209/20230716_135832.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvW6F8bHd0sUlZKc4ay4YBdD67GsVOkFo16ESlXgoig5sKlNwkIzybTmTDvGwOtMtNHvzAPQsMMVXwgeY9i9lbIUazbo_yLDnczvezHH4wIvzNBXsJDimsdiiHyfMzZWoRVkR7FocAiGsTN7C8eygY2L53Ffm4rh1z2tVSZ8N39szqy39FOV4nzafDXiY/s320/20230716_135832.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtyvx1qOrqnunCftAtFBHCS_wtACfwc1DCyV5BjqiZDaHz7KxNQNuBS_uT5M-mHL_HeX8vbcJOzxetMjhwgErjfW53NsBbI41c9EjP86XkRXxcpW1gKDkj9wTpjZTkOLwkMygHUErKTgivcAAZepUd-D8fB6HsMhbIf-EsWOCqYlfj8JveTD6kk_72ulc/s1209/20230716_135923.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtyvx1qOrqnunCftAtFBHCS_wtACfwc1DCyV5BjqiZDaHz7KxNQNuBS_uT5M-mHL_HeX8vbcJOzxetMjhwgErjfW53NsBbI41c9EjP86XkRXxcpW1gKDkj9wTpjZTkOLwkMygHUErKTgivcAAZepUd-D8fB6HsMhbIf-EsWOCqYlfj8JveTD6kk_72ulc/s320/20230716_135923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9p9ZT6eRawopPFOHD14dkr-Zdv8Bs7u0rJsUuDEPR3Qwnyzts2AUA4pR4689dPHX03EHb6-ApHZhc8c6akv-gcOuBV9fPq9yeLzkHRsZmxUvgfrCM7f_0QPZCZ4IuqSKCKI2w5ZZOaCwWW74zzw3VLPda6borfxxc2IKBaX23Xt5WdNWLFqhn2wmAOCg/s1209/20230716_135935.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9p9ZT6eRawopPFOHD14dkr-Zdv8Bs7u0rJsUuDEPR3Qwnyzts2AUA4pR4689dPHX03EHb6-ApHZhc8c6akv-gcOuBV9fPq9yeLzkHRsZmxUvgfrCM7f_0QPZCZ4IuqSKCKI2w5ZZOaCwWW74zzw3VLPda6borfxxc2IKBaX23Xt5WdNWLFqhn2wmAOCg/s320/20230716_135935.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A proposito di chiese domenicane... I più accorti si saranno accorti che il nome di questa città, San Cristobal de Las Casas, ha una somiglianza non casuale con quello del famoso frate domenicano, Bartolomé de Las Casas, che fu uno dei pochi eminenti difensori delle popolazioni indigene (di solito citato nei libri di storia, anche delle scuole medie, tra i documenti di lettura). La città fu fondata nel 1528 da Diego Mazariegos. I suoi concittadini fecero fortuna con la coltivazione del grano, mentre i nativi persero le loro terre e si trovarono a far fronte ad epidemie, tasse e lavoro forzato. Nel caso del Chiapas, la Chiesa tentò di difenderli. I domenicani giunsero qui nel 1545 e il Bartolomé sopra citato fu nominato vescovo del Chiapas, diventando, in epoca coloniale, strenuo difensore dei diritti dei popoli indigeni. Le sue orme sono state seguite, in tempi più recenti, dal vescovo Ruiz, scomparso nel 2011. Le sue battaglie a favore dei nativi gli hanno attirato le antipatie della classe dirigente chiapaneca. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di dedicarci ai musei ci perdiamo ancora un po' tra i labirintici mercati, che sono il vero cuore di questa città. Esplode un altro temporale, e anche stavolta troviamo rifugio tra bancarelle e sguardi incuriositi dei venditori, che si chiedono se i gringos (perchè sì, siamo etichettati come tali) si bagnino sotto la pioggia come loro.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_w8b1ImnJkV02N8KlQ0ab6t0t1IzjFU6dpZ4cXolCAdZAOFzRVy-shf053nrgkxqqZVSW1OLX7o1zQMCuxDhP2aGnMI1i7s9--AY7P7KGUIggnWg1y_f15eIzlwyGbdtRNGVpMz1y0E0nDBneP-Jx4_rHEIeul8o17nFAZFSa7UkqN7WjU9Kts9_kHB4/s1209/20230716_140406.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_w8b1ImnJkV02N8KlQ0ab6t0t1IzjFU6dpZ4cXolCAdZAOFzRVy-shf053nrgkxqqZVSW1OLX7o1zQMCuxDhP2aGnMI1i7s9--AY7P7KGUIggnWg1y_f15eIzlwyGbdtRNGVpMz1y0E0nDBneP-Jx4_rHEIeul8o17nFAZFSa7UkqN7WjU9Kts9_kHB4/s320/20230716_140406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3UAwm7e95N_wWVSLHJ6aDrPe3pm0n5T17Xtvb1QcgbzYqdO2FQJMXaao5bkpUMrRiSMukA39ZjmfZsjKpzNOaEFnmk2iiNxsH8Vr1_DdXcU87nOUqm6OR-nB0_2hl5xxXjkV1Prl1APwJfaufOmBYJD6YMyujnDrVifoMTgM9XX8JF4nSOZb-nBN3nww/s320/20230716_141017.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV6BirQT_3fEL6mwbv9VzgXDw4wWoiRdGlDqsI9M11WrxihMjNTYgfD0Yab8JonanxhaK3tonWT7sc4aLJNuynwj3u5O0R1JokO2TpLGfIkV-1LE1HLrxLKWUYC3t38qtJzuRh36vUW0aE8LXKpWGCMpEY7vwYY0B2ewSx9L_6_DRsUiEehB_9brzYDGg/s1209/20230716_141027.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV6BirQT_3fEL6mwbv9VzgXDw4wWoiRdGlDqsI9M11WrxihMjNTYgfD0Yab8JonanxhaK3tonWT7sc4aLJNuynwj3u5O0R1JokO2TpLGfIkV-1LE1HLrxLKWUYC3t38qtJzuRh36vUW0aE8LXKpWGCMpEY7vwYY0B2ewSx9L_6_DRsUiEehB_9brzYDGg/s320/20230716_141027.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5jwEetJyuIEuL6wQhjNu5U1tvIHK5f2vvShxFaMZZS3uVHnLtO3cm6OCuLPBqyFXciarh3aHr6egcBfrUdcouqeJAPyb0gcm0mNH1b8UtQgh9AHTdGuXQQc1g1396lW3pju5XHibcQF-JLDlzMDdKSYb7GIjXsnnGXY9_AyXH4uyZ4v1dKFfKEygQbI/s1209/20230716_141051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5jwEetJyuIEuL6wQhjNu5U1tvIHK5f2vvShxFaMZZS3uVHnLtO3cm6OCuLPBqyFXciarh3aHr6egcBfrUdcouqeJAPyb0gcm0mNH1b8UtQgh9AHTdGuXQQc1g1396lW3pju5XHibcQF-JLDlzMDdKSYb7GIjXsnnGXY9_AyXH4uyZ4v1dKFfKEygQbI/s320/20230716_141051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFwdhqqDiv02wLZsQHegGVXRlchO32TnTWnh2EUbPoruEk1iHKiYZm9UiR73axFLfGmOBROkEe3TpgyHy-mjbO4_HKV45aE0qEzT04BnP3cBPYd6q2rpppqUUzQjGkczb1SGZuh0MWhrX8Xywgx8TXo_uFo6zgSwWO_UNvnOcp_NfgdCM1THz-kwxbyY/s1209/20230716_141128.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFwdhqqDiv02wLZsQHegGVXRlchO32TnTWnh2EUbPoruEk1iHKiYZm9UiR73axFLfGmOBROkEe3TpgyHy-mjbO4_HKV45aE0qEzT04BnP3cBPYd6q2rpppqUUzQjGkczb1SGZuh0MWhrX8Xywgx8TXo_uFo6zgSwWO_UNvnOcp_NfgdCM1THz-kwxbyY/s320/20230716_141128.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlW8y7luPXIHwmApcp1VFt8ucKeUOMY8pUuEZ_B4NsZ5zO6IRhocyZBgo6I6dXnjzrXLaT7CC_VxeO6uu73iLl-kC6-hndfbl3XhjXWuWfUw3uQgYVehCbif7BOKQn8CN6fTLElpDkllv0ouaEQsLlI59FbJ4eL9HK9_5CI_3TgYJvBv-8EHWQc47v7E/s1209/20230716_141202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvlW8y7luPXIHwmApcp1VFt8ucKeUOMY8pUuEZ_B4NsZ5zO6IRhocyZBgo6I6dXnjzrXLaT7CC_VxeO6uu73iLl-kC6-hndfbl3XhjXWuWfUw3uQgYVehCbif7BOKQn8CN6fTLElpDkllv0ouaEQsLlI59FbJ4eL9HK9_5CI_3TgYJvBv-8EHWQc47v7E/s320/20230716_141202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">statue de la santa muerte, culto esoterico vietato in Messico e non riconosciuto da nessuna chiesa. I suoi fedeli, spesso malavitosi o narcos, hanno una visione quasi francescana da sorella morte. Se è stata creata da Dio, non può essere un male.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmcR6b971GzYA7ipINpFPZnETxY157XNbz8KZgXIjGY0SiIKloKRcPwOjQCAk7_aP3izbig3G9a-YPiltY0bQjFFbEC6Eyb8oTZ6uDQxNIjwq7vZav54BkzCdaftDCLV1-G3ii7vNntzLmvJkMXMfEYh9h2iqAdhz1nzFrozOBRdcovh4nVIEH9EKHrRg/s1209/20230716_141206.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmcR6b971GzYA7ipINpFPZnETxY157XNbz8KZgXIjGY0SiIKloKRcPwOjQCAk7_aP3izbig3G9a-YPiltY0bQjFFbEC6Eyb8oTZ6uDQxNIjwq7vZav54BkzCdaftDCLV1-G3ii7vNntzLmvJkMXMfEYh9h2iqAdhz1nzFrozOBRdcovh4nVIEH9EKHrRg/s320/20230716_141206.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicXyOpZnvxy2MThBtZmxbIM2hYa4xI-xWZchvOUHOJRSGVhdhRlzT4E8pJl9fh-EyLdKO9ditmmOexQL13ctvlMV8yhTqyVFsXDpA7lgzbtaGI_SZHc_b2sWlCV5i3bStHYF9MaNHH5IZSP0SMIN6aCOUOYNQZJpfslUpMQwCYDsTmZCmS2YD147_xc-4/s1209/20230716_141254.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicXyOpZnvxy2MThBtZmxbIM2hYa4xI-xWZchvOUHOJRSGVhdhRlzT4E8pJl9fh-EyLdKO9ditmmOexQL13ctvlMV8yhTqyVFsXDpA7lgzbtaGI_SZHc_b2sWlCV5i3bStHYF9MaNHH5IZSP0SMIN6aCOUOYNQZJpfslUpMQwCYDsTmZCmS2YD147_xc-4/s320/20230716_141254.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgm7_veT0-Ks82ByvhGCEnHbXObhDeDPKgqj_7XAnrNxl8vvLHID9452HGHShpK_FKvkHfhpEO_YghTWdO3Mr2KJ4QXuu3p0GpQDXK_cM831ADpxzNfYXQCFxw71vBqhz2moPlUPmzdUxBOyD6byBRqXVcU2pP9O9cY7P21rrzi2Mjh02--tpCb3U0Ss/s1209/20230716_143602.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgm7_veT0-Ks82ByvhGCEnHbXObhDeDPKgqj_7XAnrNxl8vvLHID9452HGHShpK_FKvkHfhpEO_YghTWdO3Mr2KJ4QXuu3p0GpQDXK_cM831ADpxzNfYXQCFxw71vBqhz2moPlUPmzdUxBOyD6byBRqXVcU2pP9O9cY7P21rrzi2Mjh02--tpCb3U0Ss/s320/20230716_143602.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-tZ7OaSEFNCcfVCEpr8QjTOiuuqwRfBYKY64AAQmNTDAtbtOMVHolX1Qvh15zsjcyHj1TJwFb0MIVTcn3jTm_PtgDUteStGYTa3dtN_Rz3IFjE3kJ-FTqW83oKUKpwFGcaL32Z6aXnUYd-a26tRT3k90axfFjumEUQQbKzgXsLfm4Gct3WLC5bigFvPs/s320/20230716_143741.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Ilsn0Yia1H3iphcW2HcMw8K7_Av1lYRq6npfQqflWl-jvUTRfPIhvY5VXjh1w7-vH73xwJosGeAZuvYVSFxU6jfsCPqhr8NLeiF1b5iLiFuL6i1eAnq8as4eBOOk4s23M5vn97eRzKH4qY7Ez9ljsavYMEHbXC4CX5vyBarcxxjzTCwWWF8sd6l2yaI/s1209/20230716_143803.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Ilsn0Yia1H3iphcW2HcMw8K7_Av1lYRq6npfQqflWl-jvUTRfPIhvY5VXjh1w7-vH73xwJosGeAZuvYVSFxU6jfsCPqhr8NLeiF1b5iLiFuL6i1eAnq8as4eBOOk4s23M5vn97eRzKH4qY7Ez9ljsavYMEHbXC4CX5vyBarcxxjzTCwWWF8sd6l2yaI/s320/20230716_143803.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPbWSjEJrYMx0vFXDLoHtlSH-CfClY1Vi2YX11Mn-M4J8YTfKe8uJvFUdTzOiELZbdRTdQ8aW8OEcOTnyJ3sNYY3SkK69wDSYF7ZQ-0sa5TUwuxbF41Omy7PIextUGGES4wqW91gSvJKcN5jYEIGG_Wm4sAl4qYful8PGS696qwGuFihJdvmgErR7fjU/s1209/20230716_144047.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPbWSjEJrYMx0vFXDLoHtlSH-CfClY1Vi2YX11Mn-M4J8YTfKe8uJvFUdTzOiELZbdRTdQ8aW8OEcOTnyJ3sNYY3SkK69wDSYF7ZQ-0sa5TUwuxbF41Omy7PIextUGGES4wqW91gSvJKcN5jYEIGG_Wm4sAl4qYful8PGS696qwGuFihJdvmgErR7fjU/s320/20230716_144047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Appena spiove, ci rechiamo ai due musei che si trovano nell'ex convento domenicano, quello de Los Altos de Chiapas, che mostra alcuni interessanti reperti archeologici e oggetti della vita quotidiana e tradizionale, e quello dei tessuti. Si è capito che l'arte della tessitura, spesso svolta con il telaio a cintura, è importante? Bene, perchè qui nel museo viene spiegato quanto sia fondamentale, parte della cultura e dell'economia da secoli. Accanto al museo c'è un negozio, Sna Jolobil (casa delle tessitrici) che riunisce 800 tessitrici del Chiapas fin dagli anni '70 e permette loro di vendere le loro opere, che vanno da pochi a migliaia di dollari, per gli huipiles, le tuniche ricamate che richiedono mesi di lavoro.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2nLcn0fCRt5cjlj6L6csQZTAF5ouxTaXw8qD1JGsFUen53N9Re2ljDxJ9KpeRwos3lbWUoOieiuLsqgjwZwfTZiT-YLrSUNEh3t3U0LbUIxX3MxFAEeFCfeL9MVpAPGw6gDJOKijfx0mHpet1c7vq-SmTwrsxJhhXxPABjxLDMoaaQGP9UBiz0YTezk/s1209/20230716_144759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2nLcn0fCRt5cjlj6L6csQZTAF5ouxTaXw8qD1JGsFUen53N9Re2ljDxJ9KpeRwos3lbWUoOieiuLsqgjwZwfTZiT-YLrSUNEh3t3U0LbUIxX3MxFAEeFCfeL9MVpAPGw6gDJOKijfx0mHpet1c7vq-SmTwrsxJhhXxPABjxLDMoaaQGP9UBiz0YTezk/s320/20230716_144759.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwVU2EoQvZrBXAm4nksvdlAl6GT5c_-b5-qWGjc8MHI8-Kt28FT9XU-rwKKZVmiaCKZtJR7QPsPM1aEFjnLLSJyjzbCvtfW-lWOu9yhN-0plMQ7tXpbdWrAclZqHvXVhbfSugrvaLwrUemh2osry6WzZmGOwI_dwIeve1PdzIianPf9lh27Y_BhfixqUM/s1209/20230716_145305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwVU2EoQvZrBXAm4nksvdlAl6GT5c_-b5-qWGjc8MHI8-Kt28FT9XU-rwKKZVmiaCKZtJR7QPsPM1aEFjnLLSJyjzbCvtfW-lWOu9yhN-0plMQ7tXpbdWrAclZqHvXVhbfSugrvaLwrUemh2osry6WzZmGOwI_dwIeve1PdzIianPf9lh27Y_BhfixqUM/s320/20230716_145305.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPr5api7KYTzGhvhWN5zNXf1HBYHZdgo0Rf9DgivF9CBZA_p3uxFzO7A4yR1AQnEYGinrC-0wn1TcJ4gDza9Q_C9Ak9-ul__p_lbeLOP9H1G1m2ohKSYZh65azOlUUN6hG6aToUJeqkXA-_cjusEeFCnZq65puGZDnsbCgv6b0Ez0oNZg3ur9h3aWQrw8/s1209/20230716_145519.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPr5api7KYTzGhvhWN5zNXf1HBYHZdgo0Rf9DgivF9CBZA_p3uxFzO7A4yR1AQnEYGinrC-0wn1TcJ4gDza9Q_C9Ak9-ul__p_lbeLOP9H1G1m2ohKSYZh65azOlUUN6hG6aToUJeqkXA-_cjusEeFCnZq65puGZDnsbCgv6b0Ez0oNZg3ur9h3aWQrw8/s320/20230716_145519.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-CI0nYPyEOLgW8qzPV3PSuR7oJy3rFMlmqXyD1DwSDLXDsHwhAZ0o1bXYb3Jtdux-qEZp2U1uo2vxWMVtKrqK_R4p5iaKA04sGF8NbhZS8-ZG4IhhQSsKMSkcaOeglP4NxdzrK2KTX7hagKxgDaHJPunpYYqZ4BrhJtGrp-04xCcCtJRsFFPW7umzx8/s1209/20230716_145745.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-CI0nYPyEOLgW8qzPV3PSuR7oJy3rFMlmqXyD1DwSDLXDsHwhAZ0o1bXYb3Jtdux-qEZp2U1uo2vxWMVtKrqK_R4p5iaKA04sGF8NbhZS8-ZG4IhhQSsKMSkcaOeglP4NxdzrK2KTX7hagKxgDaHJPunpYYqZ4BrhJtGrp-04xCcCtJRsFFPW7umzx8/s320/20230716_145745.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">maschere rituali degli antenati, portate in processione in epoca preispanica</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlljOG71r_1mI7t0zA5rNj9GG3GBjXGT4jV3okA2x_88_TMltxwizzLvlQURMZbQIfaIA5DD-HSKChtaTKNnyseuQUuD5B6WrmuMgJny07IoW60M9w4jJl2muDTJiTfTMI4hxmclNYppI5p8EIqMCni1SwufTK0K2ccDimamMyDRp4Yc19Hx_NyQe2RV0/s1209/20230716_145803.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlljOG71r_1mI7t0zA5rNj9GG3GBjXGT4jV3okA2x_88_TMltxwizzLvlQURMZbQIfaIA5DD-HSKChtaTKNnyseuQUuD5B6WrmuMgJny07IoW60M9w4jJl2muDTJiTfTMI4hxmclNYppI5p8EIqMCni1SwufTK0K2ccDimamMyDRp4Yc19Hx_NyQe2RV0/s320/20230716_145803.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-gVtkHfDSXyz0pNBhhxwJOC5pSsqbNnf_Ig0DjuVrOAd7ReopgQyHQ_2X_Fj81fsPNhRernAM4kCu2tf-BNwByokRZIPE7X5exD32Yve6NIUyTCDcw-TCqw8q-6E52APFRTKM1_1xQUE8FDd0y7YgJebSp-gejGK8IH1keQpZ7zAbE_m2_jtc0dhsBI/s1209/20230716_145851.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQqTZYJUlGTKapijlFkCo_f3KmniXHpSWvPpmYSmSo5wSnZI2ejm-v-2Q5C2p4hqG1kFy7l0VOai3pDeaEOKJNDlbYnh6eDenJ1maru5MAZVET71RaU-4iVH4JcIM4n7LowAqsk2yn4bYsjpLY4Q9ZFnJ4aUfLgbphcZZ7gGnbT2SSXcrRbjbhimAxAY/s979/20230716_151252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQqTZYJUlGTKapijlFkCo_f3KmniXHpSWvPpmYSmSo5wSnZI2ejm-v-2Q5C2p4hqG1kFy7l0VOai3pDeaEOKJNDlbYnh6eDenJ1maru5MAZVET71RaU-4iVH4JcIM4n7LowAqsk2yn4bYsjpLY4Q9ZFnJ4aUfLgbphcZZ7gGnbT2SSXcrRbjbhimAxAY/s320/20230716_151252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJM3t6FNPnp_5bEQQpKlHG7FO_xlAH17Q9OQrn8Z1HOdOL8aJmFcGdQZoJUSgFnQeGt6QVWTaPaRQpXTQzABAsvw3Nbxb3GV-wMjhOp2EWLDteZR1HWeAxIuZa0mKJQg_lG_xTpYTdxPIMvWUHoV3NldAq_0gA-1Q042pJNGlR5NgdHFbt0GCaHra5BeY/s1209/20230716_151407.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJM3t6FNPnp_5bEQQpKlHG7FO_xlAH17Q9OQrn8Z1HOdOL8aJmFcGdQZoJUSgFnQeGt6QVWTaPaRQpXTQzABAsvw3Nbxb3GV-wMjhOp2EWLDteZR1HWeAxIuZa0mKJQg_lG_xTpYTdxPIMvWUHoV3NldAq_0gA-1Q042pJNGlR5NgdHFbt0GCaHra5BeY/s320/20230716_151407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjisCyttPhkyYP4CagcKGey8ytxshQa44JCEWSvyjf0_Qt7CWuoWGpWYETJEaNdX77w_KHVu66pwMrPi_F2jPfGZOCWP7eH8WBphwN0mWQ8Du8g5kT3EHKw0gZU11RH0-tdGoczsQYJIz0b8htckNVjIGYV1RvTa_hx_1ZAyM8D6cTQzHNvXk_nmMs_6q8/s1209/20230716_151441.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjisCyttPhkyYP4CagcKGey8ytxshQa44JCEWSvyjf0_Qt7CWuoWGpWYETJEaNdX77w_KHVu66pwMrPi_F2jPfGZOCWP7eH8WBphwN0mWQ8Du8g5kT3EHKw0gZU11RH0-tdGoczsQYJIz0b8htckNVjIGYV1RvTa_hx_1ZAyM8D6cTQzHNvXk_nmMs_6q8/s320/20230716_151441.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi442QI0Zl-GmWr36ZcrQuuS4mLgJ8AmxuY5RpZRskca-4o04AzEBQaKTjwvKoUokCp0WPVl0XOgLjpuYtchfXc6G8EunXYFBQL6kHgLwYc8tlmsKWpDAYhZOaqT9gqGE3gY5yyE-EgyoC2NkmwD59Qh3IfdIijbAw8EbFhtSPy90fqt0L7cmDOyEaS3eY/s1209/20230716_151502.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi442QI0Zl-GmWr36ZcrQuuS4mLgJ8AmxuY5RpZRskca-4o04AzEBQaKTjwvKoUokCp0WPVl0XOgLjpuYtchfXc6G8EunXYFBQL6kHgLwYc8tlmsKWpDAYhZOaqT9gqGE3gY5yyE-EgyoC2NkmwD59Qh3IfdIijbAw8EbFhtSPy90fqt0L7cmDOyEaS3eY/s320/20230716_151502.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8vZfoDYLXDptF9qYvzjRI2aTU7Audf7aFYHuXaxYNLP3cAN0XOxZMSCvfroGAuoPYyP3xs5xcZ0GQgBa4cBoM_Xl26oo8ArHn_997YI66xrirAYdjjPGBTjTyedSeWexc-iGicJKnSih7V6t29Swp_nKUPH8GRgm9NzHnuv8eW_ZyvPspmaEw4ujax4/s1209/20230716_151537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo8vZfoDYLXDptF9qYvzjRI2aTU7Audf7aFYHuXaxYNLP3cAN0XOxZMSCvfroGAuoPYyP3xs5xcZ0GQgBa4cBoM_Xl26oo8ArHn_997YI66xrirAYdjjPGBTjTyedSeWexc-iGicJKnSih7V6t29Swp_nKUPH8GRgm9NzHnuv8eW_ZyvPspmaEw4ujax4/s320/20230716_151537.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo esserci saziati di notizie sulle culture tradizionali del luogo, torniamo per le strade a caccia di informazioni per il progetto che ho in mente per domani. Vorrei visitare Oventic, un baluardo zapatista arroccato tra i monti alle spalle di San Cristobal. So come arrivarci, ma voglio sincerarmi del fatto che la situazione sia tranquilla e la cosa sia fattibile. Allora individuo due locali in centro che vendono prodotti delle comunità zapatiste: un ristorante e bar sede frequentato da indigeni e politici progressisti, un negozio di artigianato. In entrambi chiedo e in entrambi i casi mi viene detto che si può andare senza problemi, purchè presto e portando con sè il passaporto. Ma questo già lo sapevo. Quindi domani si va a Oventic!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtP-b9DJvCg8lifsrIIsTaQqftQDon2RWEF1HazvoDbIBE2Q0VPcKdWFif5DQ8TiSl8BW-YzXyweUU4U-YK2sqn7hmJKW2a2EcJcsqItJpJ_8Zqq5sWL6pdDL2tU-LOxDu0OkMWXG9F-7BCrl_q1G0bUiFvHcYVr4lhwPmMrda7GXOmJf4xDyku8py5Yo/s1209/20230716_154030.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtP-b9DJvCg8lifsrIIsTaQqftQDon2RWEF1HazvoDbIBE2Q0VPcKdWFif5DQ8TiSl8BW-YzXyweUU4U-YK2sqn7hmJKW2a2EcJcsqItJpJ_8Zqq5sWL6pdDL2tU-LOxDu0OkMWXG9F-7BCrl_q1G0bUiFvHcYVr4lhwPmMrda7GXOmJf4xDyku8py5Yo/s320/20230716_154030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNMBo1_nrzfsralsc1YpHJjHlp6MRUrYb2jUW6l0MzMaBjD1or2C0IRUe9Pa3ijAdKfPDCaIG7cpd8KewMpEEAXXFadqe5MCqRpzB7ZhZ_7n9i5rg_NpTO0YY6tq9yoT3LtJaAXZG4kxScRyw_HBO1f57qewE9tkJfRDU3KY9m8uEgM0z001y8ZswQrG4/s1209/20230716_154352.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNMBo1_nrzfsralsc1YpHJjHlp6MRUrYb2jUW6l0MzMaBjD1or2C0IRUe9Pa3ijAdKfPDCaIG7cpd8KewMpEEAXXFadqe5MCqRpzB7ZhZ_7n9i5rg_NpTO0YY6tq9yoT3LtJaAXZG4kxScRyw_HBO1f57qewE9tkJfRDU3KY9m8uEgM0z001y8ZswQrG4/s320/20230716_154352.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_AzBeHZPRN1a5Fmkz8jFmEwhfahjRGThJhPpgLu80VJVFx1xo_z2iAY6EtOB2QHqKszeSwIFAgg3PQ2wM04IwJiCBcB_OAlPozH8eucPxKB1a0_j-Iyjwbh5MrqLtMl86aaC1n-cfKSZarIrYgedO60c5pR4n1KyE2HCnD6jraWNZQTlc7wHbjIwBbEs/s1209/20230716_154513.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_AzBeHZPRN1a5Fmkz8jFmEwhfahjRGThJhPpgLu80VJVFx1xo_z2iAY6EtOB2QHqKszeSwIFAgg3PQ2wM04IwJiCBcB_OAlPozH8eucPxKB1a0_j-Iyjwbh5MrqLtMl86aaC1n-cfKSZarIrYgedO60c5pR4n1KyE2HCnD6jraWNZQTlc7wHbjIwBbEs/s320/20230716_154513.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">femministe in protesta. Altre donne scomparse, nel silenzio connivente delle autorità</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV5wgaFVz2DejuIWTnoWLZaVTdhrepuFHaVxGyEVCZsaZcFSk_vuMy0adGYf1BRseCaU0MbwT16lLBiUQ87TaYl663Zo_bMk30p8WLPExjYAie6fwbDFL6zuVymeS0vsDM1J70iC_gDBfSNepdkue7uDx9oJJEFZW3aJSbunfH1kg4_8l2_VKGX3k_jd0/s1209/20230716_154522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV5wgaFVz2DejuIWTnoWLZaVTdhrepuFHaVxGyEVCZsaZcFSk_vuMy0adGYf1BRseCaU0MbwT16lLBiUQ87TaYl663Zo_bMk30p8WLPExjYAie6fwbDFL6zuVymeS0vsDM1J70iC_gDBfSNepdkue7uDx9oJJEFZW3aJSbunfH1kg4_8l2_VKGX3k_jd0/s320/20230716_154522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ4KIxtKnaUkqhmsCE0ZrRFJzZJSEwHAXtWdZ32Caotnznq2j7N_SM5b37KmZHuM8BGPOggbqD6D_cFzd0g4F9CVI2LutrnDCF0M69RPh7Sjr24hsLOSGIc-oIz_apCHl4OI0Js1ZstKvz0rSJKp92SPimU_Mv9bGWNlVbV-3n263uAupEzT6RRXRXdEE/s1209/20230716_154633.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ4KIxtKnaUkqhmsCE0ZrRFJzZJSEwHAXtWdZ32Caotnznq2j7N_SM5b37KmZHuM8BGPOggbqD6D_cFzd0g4F9CVI2LutrnDCF0M69RPh7Sjr24hsLOSGIc-oIz_apCHl4OI0Js1ZstKvz0rSJKp92SPimU_Mv9bGWNlVbV-3n263uAupEzT6RRXRXdEE/s320/20230716_154633.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinu-vVCI53gq90LQUO3TgwyFulBIlYcOamU7VHLGZgNk7khIpch3_Rn8ftNGu9LFnsPUoFEtRkqnig3CAS7v_DREGdb4IV0qnpQ_wNk9binOxnpwhMARkHr0Rw57NuujYSkQ7uuNm-C9tm1iIzloa2GaHTRiu7NehSFn4hzlAMNfn-jQSFn75bNA3OXk/s1209/20230716_154648.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinu-vVCI53gq90LQUO3TgwyFulBIlYcOamU7VHLGZgNk7khIpch3_Rn8ftNGu9LFnsPUoFEtRkqnig3CAS7v_DREGdb4IV0qnpQ_wNk9binOxnpwhMARkHr0Rw57NuujYSkQ7uuNm-C9tm1iIzloa2GaHTRiu7NehSFn4hzlAMNfn-jQSFn75bNA3OXk/s320/20230716_154648.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poichè a San Cristobal non manca nulla, non ci perdiamo la fiera del fungo. anzi, il festival de los hongos. Non si tratta di funghi per farci il risotto, se non in minima parte. Ci sono tatuatori, artisti, persone vestite da fungo, artigiani che vendono gioielli e stampe a tema fungo, e un generale clima ilare che vi lascio immaginare. Insomma, funghi allucinogeni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkm0M6CPSzEjrVfha7urvM7mexZjA18FE7or8JdiU0qXepw9l2FtPsZXFGKFeLL0uABqch42wcWK5im5xqE_c9opaZLiOKNBh2XtNIudgJwRJxbPOc-vgOPFVDr30Z1wwoaaqWNMo6UUNS9GzAUhedR_shiTh0gQiyA4ZzHZ8oq8d8syNvj9m5TD2YrI0/s1209/20230716_155104.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkm0M6CPSzEjrVfha7urvM7mexZjA18FE7or8JdiU0qXepw9l2FtPsZXFGKFeLL0uABqch42wcWK5im5xqE_c9opaZLiOKNBh2XtNIudgJwRJxbPOc-vgOPFVDr30Z1wwoaaqWNMo6UUNS9GzAUhedR_shiTh0gQiyA4ZzHZ8oq8d8syNvj9m5TD2YrI0/s320/20230716_155104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5r9WpCl6WtGXxad33wxV05oucY5NNp3DSbYUQZ-SVDmNmfmWdBiATvWdpQJgUKuh_wjAF4trIXprnhZuoOy6bdrx1Jmm19jtWJGxP5J4p1S4GLxcvo6OvutfEnI2RZAJ_0tecsMK_2LEXdVLKHAJPiqnKjFeLoAXOz6j3OWZQZQEa2KehtdL-NElFQo/s1209/20230716_155224.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5r9WpCl6WtGXxad33wxV05oucY5NNp3DSbYUQZ-SVDmNmfmWdBiATvWdpQJgUKuh_wjAF4trIXprnhZuoOy6bdrx1Jmm19jtWJGxP5J4p1S4GLxcvo6OvutfEnI2RZAJ_0tecsMK_2LEXdVLKHAJPiqnKjFeLoAXOz6j3OWZQZQEa2KehtdL-NElFQo/s320/20230716_155224.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmpzuRE6VIQd8r8Y_PnbmICAgqG2k0AeqzbUb73yPc1EC-0X8rwkV1tyl_iBZ3buU2rJQ_J77H-Asy8pwn1fDz8CPRt5_s_O249if8H34wwhrbarPRhqq0TiO8Y70LronJL4DufQVKbKfWP15_GpqLlusttQK9lf6QSRHBRC9wrDHckXnvTKgI5n0sQc/s1209/20230716_155301.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmpzuRE6VIQd8r8Y_PnbmICAgqG2k0AeqzbUb73yPc1EC-0X8rwkV1tyl_iBZ3buU2rJQ_J77H-Asy8pwn1fDz8CPRt5_s_O249if8H34wwhrbarPRhqq0TiO8Y70LronJL4DufQVKbKfWP15_GpqLlusttQK9lf6QSRHBRC9wrDHckXnvTKgI5n0sQc/s320/20230716_155301.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La nostra passeggiata ci porta infine verso chiesa ed arco del Carmen, che un tempo era la porta di ingresso alla città. Intorno non mancano i soliti coloratissimi mercatini, mentre dentro alla chiesa sono stati sparsi aghi di pino, usanza tipica dei chamula.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MnVmUVP43A7zdqEUYJNYy1lvSw2z5bTQ6IfGYk9kohyZiZojeXS-TT-Z7BUXOr9Iggi-x3s9cA371AK_P9JjKqrS_BmqKHayIK-Tht41lAlArbu3o__MWIjy4dZ6MdyDX9xFjGs8qbrZg4eSQy8Bg_p2gInMQZ9xBgd7tfLgYGukoApwz5v6pnFxz-o/s979/20230716_160848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MnVmUVP43A7zdqEUYJNYy1lvSw2z5bTQ6IfGYk9kohyZiZojeXS-TT-Z7BUXOr9Iggi-x3s9cA371AK_P9JjKqrS_BmqKHayIK-Tht41lAlArbu3o__MWIjy4dZ6MdyDX9xFjGs8qbrZg4eSQy8Bg_p2gInMQZ9xBgd7tfLgYGukoApwz5v6pnFxz-o/s320/20230716_160848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHnkBabML_Uc9WMGZhWGCI70BDctUx0bIQpHk108eP0Cxa8Re6giI9COTKPPdoHLxSLT-cdTuleqBiZCrD3w7kQM6wP9BGfb3pDfGbyTeXrqcFiYEs20tOCY2yjIw7CQw2ufHZd5QQHw7MYAG1UTqCa4TC1KK1UOLpY4RjMgFT6AlttK6TFvh_SdpKn0/s979/20230716_161144.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHnkBabML_Uc9WMGZhWGCI70BDctUx0bIQpHk108eP0Cxa8Re6giI9COTKPPdoHLxSLT-cdTuleqBiZCrD3w7kQM6wP9BGfb3pDfGbyTeXrqcFiYEs20tOCY2yjIw7CQw2ufHZd5QQHw7MYAG1UTqCa4TC1KK1UOLpY4RjMgFT6AlttK6TFvh_SdpKn0/s320/20230716_161144.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3adIZ2WCuoeDg0W5uIp4kRuwFd_stukmvCfXLte3ko9UnADMQW2MsYGut2_nD3iAq3wS9GSHv2GUl7Io-4wLQPEyLhXlb_CTK_6anPXBH6-hqrydPyrUQ2fXWVEfUnNy-oCdqThxk_l9ZHNXZmKF2d6nmllZTcsRcuWSKz_hh_4LefRF3pEKXICOhYFQ/s1209/20230716_161218.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3adIZ2WCuoeDg0W5uIp4kRuwFd_stukmvCfXLte3ko9UnADMQW2MsYGut2_nD3iAq3wS9GSHv2GUl7Io-4wLQPEyLhXlb_CTK_6anPXBH6-hqrydPyrUQ2fXWVEfUnNy-oCdqThxk_l9ZHNXZmKF2d6nmllZTcsRcuWSKz_hh_4LefRF3pEKXICOhYFQ/s320/20230716_161218.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMFGUhgCHy6U54RtlF1sxqSORIPX9YcJ0b9i7EDlGtJRdOBSnUZCO9XaBJ-Px8fHYRdrvDjOgGoLinPv56CLtz-DQbQZupCFJTdU_LYJ7_HixFBLY0f0_9LBf9ycG30cglVfBlwMRrHrrzFzTGE3YSUwJr-1NwkZXdLBGdcaMKotUAmTM1XdYnlHcgWI/s1209/20230716_162036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMFGUhgCHy6U54RtlF1sxqSORIPX9YcJ0b9i7EDlGtJRdOBSnUZCO9XaBJ-Px8fHYRdrvDjOgGoLinPv56CLtz-DQbQZupCFJTdU_LYJ7_HixFBLY0f0_9LBf9ycG30cglVfBlwMRrHrrzFzTGE3YSUwJr-1NwkZXdLBGdcaMKotUAmTM1XdYnlHcgWI/s320/20230716_162036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ViFmyYRI0IVS2ZLWFgr11R8pCWMed0T_ZAk5tUtro0gWORezQgGUt83g40bTuno5UDDot4vkllW5NNZz3jY7Hw-jV3rTyzXCxnANc4J4jyUsL3_UtRM8BE7-buVta2Ji5UAIUe-PfpuPtOVI_nK8QPVvw0RFsiLzsUNANb5iWrcj-VwYhnI_HY226hI/s1209/20230716_162039.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ViFmyYRI0IVS2ZLWFgr11R8pCWMed0T_ZAk5tUtro0gWORezQgGUt83g40bTuno5UDDot4vkllW5NNZz3jY7Hw-jV3rTyzXCxnANc4J4jyUsL3_UtRM8BE7-buVta2Ji5UAIUe-PfpuPtOVI_nK8QPVvw0RFsiLzsUNANb5iWrcj-VwYhnI_HY226hI/s320/20230716_162039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Torniamo in ostello, dove ammiro i miei acquisti per finanziare l'EZLN,</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlQvq0MDO-RqBjMDG32LdAiC7iLVdEJSpLkKSI2CVdtE9aFpAIFEVWDzAtD0e-n8EUSUdvvVXf30Z62zfeyVsvv39nOKRDKBlLcaJQZNUBO0ISZGT_DoALIGjcdlxmW3xWGyUc5-44HZmmUmaucDjHAvAMhNC90JSECuh6526jG6DdNuLfweQ34sVyp1I/s1209/20230716_165857.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlQvq0MDO-RqBjMDG32LdAiC7iLVdEJSpLkKSI2CVdtE9aFpAIFEVWDzAtD0e-n8EUSUdvvVXf30Z62zfeyVsvv39nOKRDKBlLcaJQZNUBO0ISZGT_DoALIGjcdlxmW3xWGyUc5-44HZmmUmaucDjHAvAMhNC90JSECuh6526jG6DdNuLfweQ34sVyp1I/s320/20230716_165857.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>riposiamo un po' e usciamo di nuovo per cena. Troviamo un ristorantino delizioso, che propone solo cibo locale, no bottiglie di plastica e tanta buona musica in sottofondo. Torneremo sicuramente anche domani, dopo esser stati a Oventic dagli zapatisti e a San Juan Chamula, presso uno dei più noti e incredibili pueblos indigeni, dove sincretismo è la parola d'ordine.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPS181tSrQVDJ7a2Mzcr2HT94HWXXWnZCbyyq5H2VorjICuyyrS94mswqKG8UHMtI-1MsbwMBE9Kk32i40BkGFm9NHUcV_50MWZfTRTngW3ABFmQKlK-UFH4KbKzxS9jd3jFC1ls28QoQHQ2y6-EfYQRNUDGgBkO9C7ZdJXiXcMvFI18686cDZMm_bzFM/s1209/20230716_200437.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPS181tSrQVDJ7a2Mzcr2HT94HWXXWnZCbyyq5H2VorjICuyyrS94mswqKG8UHMtI-1MsbwMBE9Kk32i40BkGFm9NHUcV_50MWZfTRTngW3ABFmQKlK-UFH4KbKzxS9jd3jFC1ls28QoQHQ2y6-EfYQRNUDGgBkO9C7ZdJXiXcMvFI18686cDZMm_bzFM/s320/20230716_200437.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqKAabs4SwaWHa_p3jupIeUONZwSi1pS4bRoeMaTD17ZXsxIb4UEvvKUf8oEbKe-ZlJLX_nFy_jR4NUChdTlszho8ggP3lo-HlPvseuIHL7U1_ui4glJXKTAvePpqyXvKGrQ7hE3nHmEDqueb3pS6hBBqIO6EAXe8XgUNNpo3ILQLTXYGsn5w-ar-zcc/s1209/20230716_202138.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqKAabs4SwaWHa_p3jupIeUONZwSi1pS4bRoeMaTD17ZXsxIb4UEvvKUf8oEbKe-ZlJLX_nFy_jR4NUChdTlszho8ggP3lo-HlPvseuIHL7U1_ui4glJXKTAvePpqyXvKGrQ7hE3nHmEDqueb3pS6hBBqIO6EAXe8XgUNNpo3ILQLTXYGsn5w-ar-zcc/s320/20230716_202138.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4osf5w_txQQHp1aXr4G4p5ibhfNBw2UrY0bDrO-hg3Vrvs5belmGFiA8_yZgPc8WXvAcS5SKIRLVJxSXjRNTeRskSoqdc60jj0m-S7M8pe0v6bNtYuag3GtVazOX2hVm04hmZcOFxI60bLNKLC-OHso84sEgte3k_phP-6OQWKaq8XQ4KU_FMw5rbt74/s1209/20230716_202218.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4osf5w_txQQHp1aXr4G4p5ibhfNBw2UrY0bDrO-hg3Vrvs5belmGFiA8_yZgPc8WXvAcS5SKIRLVJxSXjRNTeRskSoqdc60jj0m-S7M8pe0v6bNtYuag3GtVazOX2hVm04hmZcOFxI60bLNKLC-OHso84sEgte3k_phP-6OQWKaq8XQ4KU_FMw5rbt74/s320/20230716_202218.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">17/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">anello San Cristobal de las Casas - Oventic - San Juan Chamula - Zinacantan - San Cris</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Non ho ancora elaborato la quantità di informazioni, sensazioni, emozioni, e altre parole importanti in -zioni vissute oggi. Scrivere spero mi aiuti a far ordine nel caos di particelle impazzite, frammenti di cose viste, parole ascoltate, profumi e brandelli di luce, gocce di cera, volute d'incenso che arde, sangue anche, e parecchio, mischiato al posh che ubriaca e alla CocaCola. Cerco di far ordine e raccontare tutto dall'inizio.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Questa mattina, dopo una buona colazione in ostello, siamo usciti presto con un obiettivo preciso in mente (chiaro da mesi, per me): visitare un pueblo zapatista, Oventic. Non è una meta turistica, e non ci sono tour, terminal di autobus o itinerari in chiaro per raggiungere questo villaggio. Quindi bisogna un po' arrangiarsi e affidarsi alla gente. Sappiamo che intorno al mercato vecchio partono dei combis, o taxi collettivi, che salgono fin lassù tra le montagne. Bisogna cercare. D'altronde uno dei motti degli zapatisti è proprio "camminare domandando". E noi così facciamo. Attraversiamo la parte nord di San Cristobal e superiamo il mercato, che è già un delirio di viavai di anime e merci. Poi troviamo alcuni autisti di colectivos e chiediamo. Qualcuno fa finta di non capire, qualcuno ci gira le spalle, ma altri ci indirizzano e, alla fine, troviamo il passaggio. Ci viene chiesto più volte dall'autista se vogliamo andare davvero a Oventic. Sì. Ok, la corsa (di un'ora, costa 3 euro.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm2k6GAz7CPloqC0-jvcRFl-WoKD21qz5j7yOsnYcL4KwXS5_ObDWJIw9hdrcvGU2TyMhW-5zK31rhbH_Pzs95AS6GuKBQ2IEDVvtt87lBVPX6E4RugMjAPAQdZHEJkQKpNedO-_pY-tMSgMzGKJEBOvC2-sDyPINQ0nlVGjS9EtlsXe16J4J1cKiS1DM/s1209/20230717_083107.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm2k6GAz7CPloqC0-jvcRFl-WoKD21qz5j7yOsnYcL4KwXS5_ObDWJIw9hdrcvGU2TyMhW-5zK31rhbH_Pzs95AS6GuKBQ2IEDVvtt87lBVPX6E4RugMjAPAQdZHEJkQKpNedO-_pY-tMSgMzGKJEBOvC2-sDyPINQ0nlVGjS9EtlsXe16J4J1cKiS1DM/s320/20230717_083107.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB440ilPu186nLiAtrS-a9jFZer41LfZvvSBUKAPTFnk9V7h4meMn4EXDS6rFggZRQumANi-hP1R7AvL3P7Gf45xYARRG9vTqC-huxxkIPzMUmSMPvDQsArx30MmBb95RhyDQK6rcbC28vdYQs_hZ834koK4IjDtq6zLF2t7fCCC_MPqP27NjtIyNkU_o/s1209/20230717_083120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB440ilPu186nLiAtrS-a9jFZer41LfZvvSBUKAPTFnk9V7h4meMn4EXDS6rFggZRQumANi-hP1R7AvL3P7Gf45xYARRG9vTqC-huxxkIPzMUmSMPvDQsArx30MmBb95RhyDQK6rcbC28vdYQs_hZ834koK4IjDtq6zLF2t7fCCC_MPqP27NjtIyNkU_o/s320/20230717_083120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQSqu-O8iDk5RuwvKBWelLZutSj89CsvmwnrZAGDJbNrf4dWPSlBfnY_9OiMOLU1Mf2jHW61tbj2YUySeViA6GvJZweQp1Ow83bGwnte_FV55M6MsacGdCN6uMhx07h9TFHxPUCOltg_bPyJJ5FPdYy20tI163ou99C2pRWbNapyOVXl6wu6Dz6ty09bI/s1209/20230717_083135.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQSqu-O8iDk5RuwvKBWelLZutSj89CsvmwnrZAGDJbNrf4dWPSlBfnY_9OiMOLU1Mf2jHW61tbj2YUySeViA6GvJZweQp1Ow83bGwnte_FV55M6MsacGdCN6uMhx07h9TFHxPUCOltg_bPyJJ5FPdYy20tI163ou99C2pRWbNapyOVXl6wu6Dz6ty09bI/s320/20230717_083135.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dsu3osYGzhQ7tBryvv13hgT0eBVoaCYKXj-DVJkBD0kz2kjzHklhOfWQVKwA34pNzz_pa_IHVrEb_FUN3-bHBqu_10ts4fRemm89qsCArr_Bi9P1cqPV_AYpo8Y8eIAgDeaGtCrmR8qdBxuVW1CeoqhUtfj-7G9zdAFnMp0ziOKyRRbMFxgfbfDEfKQ/s1209/20230717_083151.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dsu3osYGzhQ7tBryvv13hgT0eBVoaCYKXj-DVJkBD0kz2kjzHklhOfWQVKwA34pNzz_pa_IHVrEb_FUN3-bHBqu_10ts4fRemm89qsCArr_Bi9P1cqPV_AYpo8Y8eIAgDeaGtCrmR8qdBxuVW1CeoqhUtfj-7G9zdAFnMp0ziOKyRRbMFxgfbfDEfKQ/s320/20230717_083151.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQ7N8J6IZe_FXXzdfAOgWB0kCYiHcxQ6p9ETFy2__pJn9O7817Jo_FhDGkfIR-6_sa-jLW0peMN9CDSfda4oc1kztOhnX3bhOakgW_t9biY5p6wsC_d_C0RvhE9MevZlzst4S0teUo7UMaOonMdswqbJzje-Z_nI01UoV2HqBO8OI-Vu5dDpM-jKZj7w/s1209/20230717_084307.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQ7N8J6IZe_FXXzdfAOgWB0kCYiHcxQ6p9ETFy2__pJn9O7817Jo_FhDGkfIR-6_sa-jLW0peMN9CDSfda4oc1kztOhnX3bhOakgW_t9biY5p6wsC_d_C0RvhE9MevZlzst4S0teUo7UMaOonMdswqbJzje-Z_nI01UoV2HqBO8OI-Vu5dDpM-jKZj7w/s320/20230717_084307.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">L'auto è piena. Davanti a noi ci sono una signora e un ragazzo che parlano spagnolo. Sono due insegnanti e discutono di esami e corsi, perchè qui la scuola non è mica finita, ancora! L'autista e la persona seduta accanto, invece, chiacchierano in lingua tzotzil, che suona veramente, ma veramente particolare. Ce ne accorgeremo durante tutta la giornata, perchè nei villaggi la gente non parla spagnolo, se non come seconda lingua, e se si è andati a scuola. Ci arrampichiamo su strade sempre meno trafficate, e in breve la città cede il passo a boschi scoscesi e campi di mais a strapiombo, tra picchi e valloni ammantati di verde scuro. I pueblos interrompono questa distesa di foglie e radici. Iniziano a vedersi quasi solo persone vestite in abiti tradizionali: gli uomini con tuniche bianche o rosa, le donne con camicie ricamate a fiori, scialli viola e lunghe gonne nere di stoffa o di lana di pecora grezza. Anche i bambini sono abbigliati così. La città è vicina, e lontana. Compaiono anche le prime stelle rosse: stiamo entrando in territorio zapatista.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiahBmiGh3SGq0J2UhDO6EMs71krBEC5DWTHqBse1Xtb_j5QZmPncPOZLgk_YP4H8DrEunkcWl1fRcp28AydJCKJsurkcdUMtqyrpmR-I_gI7L6jYwF_cX1y7N_7OjMsAUEMm1GisQvxAYy6AbyLSfUJSufeRF3OGf_et2UUhyjqFwivtn5wdEmgY2L9Iw/s1209/20230717_093011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiahBmiGh3SGq0J2UhDO6EMs71krBEC5DWTHqBse1Xtb_j5QZmPncPOZLgk_YP4H8DrEunkcWl1fRcp28AydJCKJsurkcdUMtqyrpmR-I_gI7L6jYwF_cX1y7N_7OjMsAUEMm1GisQvxAYy6AbyLSfUJSufeRF3OGf_et2UUhyjqFwivtn5wdEmgY2L9Iw/s320/20230717_093011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_uI4PKdFlfjoCpQo_PKUKSqkasUN7pSn8Isk2800kPVISiXRdTBBsyG7W2RXRrfzHXupaDiwFoe6hzqt-goaTYICh_TYi08GPTDuQ8ok5o8avCCo-CAQbix1xe4QAwSjflSJpph6YbwG1835We7XM98BtThSAjEjQw5F_AenpeSCb24grupHysSlXEIE/s1209/20230717_095324.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_uI4PKdFlfjoCpQo_PKUKSqkasUN7pSn8Isk2800kPVISiXRdTBBsyG7W2RXRrfzHXupaDiwFoe6hzqt-goaTYICh_TYi08GPTDuQ8ok5o8avCCo-CAQbix1xe4QAwSjflSJpph6YbwG1835We7XM98BtThSAjEjQw5F_AenpeSCb24grupHysSlXEIE/s320/20230717_095324.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv48ArAx8vjCa8xx8un-ZZlSwAfn5SmlkBItryFvl9MaiWD31J2_LSj39PZrQcmjt0Xj4LgUH57rD2iKsxG6dJZMHscxV3r9DzVx0KYItM_9LZBjTGYTF60lOSNqQ47QoXCFi-AG2taFoWif1bqCcKR7HLQ6HZ0ULzANuX5EWt1MwngatpCbsrtDKXS8/s1209/20230717_100056.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvv48ArAx8vjCa8xx8un-ZZlSwAfn5SmlkBItryFvl9MaiWD31J2_LSj39PZrQcmjt0Xj4LgUH57rD2iKsxG6dJZMHscxV3r9DzVx0KYItM_9LZBjTGYTF60lOSNqQ47QoXCFi-AG2taFoWif1bqCcKR7HLQ6HZ0ULzANuX5EWt1MwngatpCbsrtDKXS8/s320/20230717_100056.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_hipcsSmPYoXQxhTsYErONxUklox-z8vXSP_LVmmy5Kfxoh_RpNXnu47ExIVDh5LY9D2kZfmkUGwvy6G00Z9I7B5c6btRtv7x7CGLTjqoOljuagnsyIfHjJc5GMMMRY1MX__AqE2TJrRQJFIMUjy72br3NqKJuPyUvmzes7b_-7NSKafCOFNsQj9UVM/s1209/20230717_100101.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_hipcsSmPYoXQxhTsYErONxUklox-z8vXSP_LVmmy5Kfxoh_RpNXnu47ExIVDh5LY9D2kZfmkUGwvy6G00Z9I7B5c6btRtv7x7CGLTjqoOljuagnsyIfHjJc5GMMMRY1MX__AqE2TJrRQJFIMUjy72br3NqKJuPyUvmzes7b_-7NSKafCOFNsQj9UVM/s320/20230717_100101.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmov7aUISw-bfa3r8POuJ2MIjAZfSA8OAr3ILzScczebaSAQ_wPaZr323czN96w74cyZj9lHjKMxGjk3wocNs218lXF6YUNtv_zXU-luOtuxgxcv1S3YKIEGasYnSvzsyIUBTM8lX44oY68uDMXov0NXHnQe2YxQkQtQ3_UAyWsD3GJbS0NJyw97qrPQE/s1209/20230717_100716.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmov7aUISw-bfa3r8POuJ2MIjAZfSA8OAr3ILzScczebaSAQ_wPaZr323czN96w74cyZj9lHjKMxGjk3wocNs218lXF6YUNtv_zXU-luOtuxgxcv1S3YKIEGasYnSvzsyIUBTM8lX44oY68uDMXov0NXHnQe2YxQkQtQ3_UAyWsD3GJbS0NJyw97qrPQE/s320/20230717_100716.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswC60neVnW5tY3dRVl4kAqJSEQO6FlLQ0ccBGDWy8az1oiLbWQCUcauqJpTfJc-0UpxpqqZKgHvv643tZNEASmI1AwskbofBjJitJq-nPCkfa2P8fe3sB3zypHK6R67DcZoi-K_Jc6sG94TmmXphngocVrto2jsYA-1RqEeqQSLS5rcYrPuiszXepO88/s1209/20230717_100719.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswC60neVnW5tY3dRVl4kAqJSEQO6FlLQ0ccBGDWy8az1oiLbWQCUcauqJpTfJc-0UpxpqqZKgHvv643tZNEASmI1AwskbofBjJitJq-nPCkfa2P8fe3sB3zypHK6R67DcZoi-K_Jc6sG94TmmXphngocVrto2jsYA-1RqEeqQSLS5rcYrPuiszXepO88/s320/20230717_100719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo una lunga corsa, eccoci finalmente a Oventic. Ora non è questa la sede per ricapitolare tutta la storia del cosiddetto neozapatismo e dell'EZLN (Esercito zapatista di liberazione nazionale). Do solo due linee generali: correva l'anno 1994, era il primo di gennaio. Mentre entrava in vigore il NAFTA, il movimento armato anticapitalista, anarchico e indigenista guidato dal subcomandante Marcos (docente universitario al secolo Rafael Guillen) uscì dalle foreste e occupò San Cristobal e altre cittadine nel Chiapas. "Ci scusiamo per il disagio, ma questa è una rivoluzione". L'obiettivo? rovesciare l'oligarchia locale, da secoli detentrice del potere, delle terre e del controllo delle risorse naturali, e migliorare le misere condizioni di vita delle popolazioni native del Messico. L'esercito respinse in pochi giorni gli zapatisti, che si rifugiarono nella selva e sulle montagne, portando avanti informazione e lotta, armata e non. I contadini occupavano fattorie e terre in Chiapas, le idee correvano, dall'estero iniziò a giungere sostegno. Il governo negoziò ma gli accordi non furono mai ratificati, motivo per cui, per tutti gli anni '90 tensioni e violenze in Chiapas aumentarono, a causa soprattutto dei gruppi paramilitari finanziati dal governo che tra uccisioni e intimidazioni si resero colpevoli dei peggiori crimini. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo aver, senza successo, tentato di proporre una propria candidata alle elezioni del 2018, gli zapatisti continuano a lottare per i diritti delle minoranze, in primis i nativi, e tra loro soprattutto le donne (cosa che li ha resi poco graditi alle comunità indigene più tradizionaliste, dove fede e patriarcato vanno a braccetto), sono no global e contro il neoliberismo. Alcuni pueblos, come Oventic, sono caracol, cioè lumache, una delle Juntas de buen gobierno istituite nel 2003 per organizzare i villaggi dell'EZLN. Tecnicamente sono del tutto autonomi, producono e forniscono al loro interno tutto il necessario per chi ci vive. A Oventic, ad esempio, ci sono la scuola, la farmacia, dei collettivi dove vengono venduti i prodotti artigianali, soprattutto tessuti, delle donne locali. Ma non si pensi ad un isolamento autarchico che vede solo il proprio ombelico, per quanto di un ventre affamato: gli zapatisti già negli anni '90 usavano internet per comunicare col mondo dalla giungla, figuriamoci ora! Infatti ci sono messaggi rivolti alla protesta contro la guerra in Ucraina e dedicati al movimento Black lives matter, oltre ai numerosi murales con slogan che invitano all'azione, al cambiamento, alla consapevolezza storica, al rispetto della natura, alla rivoluzione e ai diritti delle donne. Tutti i (pochi) edifici in legno che si possono vedere sono coperti di murales e i cartelli fanno parlare la terra e il vento. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWeBvVXFpSWvim8pdtHkATUF8V3_UfHXju6M8jIKbNr3bgY-bEWzewqz8Y2r00blOPJcWNvsONB8DeTT0ELswL4PuPOOrgyxsAPrbVOano6WC_uZLdZ0wQG0XqjsSWkI4N11CCg9dHmyZN5Vq9sJvmgozRAq57oueojAT14a4td000Mt1PODpnh-GbtsU/s1209/20230717_101840.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWeBvVXFpSWvim8pdtHkATUF8V3_UfHXju6M8jIKbNr3bgY-bEWzewqz8Y2r00blOPJcWNvsONB8DeTT0ELswL4PuPOOrgyxsAPrbVOano6WC_uZLdZ0wQG0XqjsSWkI4N11CCg9dHmyZN5Vq9sJvmgozRAq57oueojAT14a4td000Mt1PODpnh-GbtsU/s320/20230717_101840.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFY5aJGaD-Tm4iioiOJt2y1P5z8qdkLOLcSNbTbk8_lJX3Y9FeN0U2ixX695tmX7cxRTdiaQ4nHbxj5HMssoa0Xz1oDse2qkHXeoz734es7bA9c6lF80dS4-lir40mrGM7E4h7TMFYK0YWDx7FeCcqt41E6O4v_YhryOeb-Eh7TnAFvx-NO4qUdms215A/s1209/20230717_101901.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFY5aJGaD-Tm4iioiOJt2y1P5z8qdkLOLcSNbTbk8_lJX3Y9FeN0U2ixX695tmX7cxRTdiaQ4nHbxj5HMssoa0Xz1oDse2qkHXeoz734es7bA9c6lF80dS4-lir40mrGM7E4h7TMFYK0YWDx7FeCcqt41E6O4v_YhryOeb-Eh7TnAFvx-NO4qUdms215A/s320/20230717_101901.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">qui comanda il popolo e il governo obbedisce</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGwX4n3p5zFrfX0viABv2Z_501rGNmp9mBW0Scn0Txei8wZRpTnO4V7vewaXrB1QbEBRSvJK5WFKMuQ3K_oVZNBFJNpTDk1IRS4iUQ5hOPPWnCVRBPItpOvpIByOVRle6cPzfXOgsj_a0YZEp-1oYaJ68oGwfMko6IAWGFHlDDOAi1aE6xRQ_EdlHo2PQ/s1209/20230717_102205.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGwX4n3p5zFrfX0viABv2Z_501rGNmp9mBW0Scn0Txei8wZRpTnO4V7vewaXrB1QbEBRSvJK5WFKMuQ3K_oVZNBFJNpTDk1IRS4iUQ5hOPPWnCVRBPItpOvpIByOVRle6cPzfXOgsj_a0YZEp-1oYaJ68oGwfMko6IAWGFHlDDOAi1aE6xRQ_EdlHo2PQ/s320/20230717_102205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NsevsbNgQyZ4vrOvD2QZhpNpWHRLphOjoQU-iX256TQ_ue8WKJ6VAZc6AsICrgqvYaGNI7Y9DHoLjG62mtHGmFAhUkTWoriI9RB2YUIq8yTNMj7s_cGkLuKxs-NqyzXi0UWXTzMPEuy0ocKANMBoKoMy0Ly3MnQ8YqosJ9J_NuHffc-6LIBJXQnoMEQ/s1209/20230717_102334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NsevsbNgQyZ4vrOvD2QZhpNpWHRLphOjoQU-iX256TQ_ue8WKJ6VAZc6AsICrgqvYaGNI7Y9DHoLjG62mtHGmFAhUkTWoriI9RB2YUIq8yTNMj7s_cGkLuKxs-NqyzXi0UWXTzMPEuy0ocKANMBoKoMy0Ly3MnQ8YqosJ9J_NuHffc-6LIBJXQnoMEQ/s320/20230717_102334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTpdY7McvFqI7A44l1HCZC3eGuzFB3vk2NsiR8jLmMdOji7MEbdfFcFsHKO8_wIDdq1mUP2ODm2Qc8Ji2Lxa1a2V714sJ-dRvT23CDZR3VSrhjQ5T7MzlX2iMrmG9cSM1WqAYdlVXjGpBdq2tTQfb2ndhKS1PhbyqhvtcPmq-6PCQEQnDDlHy5z3gy_X0/s1209/20230717_102415.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTpdY7McvFqI7A44l1HCZC3eGuzFB3vk2NsiR8jLmMdOji7MEbdfFcFsHKO8_wIDdq1mUP2ODm2Qc8Ji2Lxa1a2V714sJ-dRvT23CDZR3VSrhjQ5T7MzlX2iMrmG9cSM1WqAYdlVXjGpBdq2tTQfb2ndhKS1PhbyqhvtcPmq-6PCQEQnDDlHy5z3gy_X0/s320/20230717_102415.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZDDN1aTXv-_CYKz5rx4t6g8XOeJ_w-SyRrgQAkRnWBzdodtk0SYGLvyjckbieGXBocOs1V_ecPsADKc_BzvnZd4E4TJ6JoQl800m8-IjOG65aKipEvG34Ap3jx1QbBQe5lLZexTJ0oB3Fku43fwL423esF4hMgweiFoew-o-NwZlvg-OjFgToZrZkVg/s1209/20230717_102438.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZDDN1aTXv-_CYKz5rx4t6g8XOeJ_w-SyRrgQAkRnWBzdodtk0SYGLvyjckbieGXBocOs1V_ecPsADKc_BzvnZd4E4TJ6JoQl800m8-IjOG65aKipEvG34Ap3jx1QbBQe5lLZexTJ0oB3Fku43fwL423esF4hMgweiFoew-o-NwZlvg-OjFgToZrZkVg/s320/20230717_102438.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFH634SUQbZWyz8XVi0dAAsh8JqNWxyRcdVkx3HEC6pENcYxpPuuoSXK4VffSqdqwwpCQWpmpuU4sorB-38zmZRJAhIYoxW_iiN4fhgkNX2xAhhJGSr4rDNsFasP9G-Af-ticIYWhEZzUL5sGPv2wOlOTvhIVVVdcYE-eU_1sSNMVBdMGt37VhPjJHuU/s1209/20230717_102539.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFH634SUQbZWyz8XVi0dAAsh8JqNWxyRcdVkx3HEC6pENcYxpPuuoSXK4VffSqdqwwpCQWpmpuU4sorB-38zmZRJAhIYoxW_iiN4fhgkNX2xAhhJGSr4rDNsFasP9G-Af-ticIYWhEZzUL5sGPv2wOlOTvhIVVVdcYE-eU_1sSNMVBdMGt37VhPjJHuU/s320/20230717_102539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVBq3pvCVLrXhWuDcehjeNHm28bhPcN6KLJ4HQGJRBdMKRL1U1qIWhNDCVcDeqKrP5IO1VgQ7zEtZAH1Py58IDuG0FDHEej720lhaaV2GXZBx5iFtLps0sFUfU-VMMkRk0-4E8aTxnaDJPlrccFNMDXCGI0_y6KTuunsrZZ78szX_wg0C5ZklIxFpw1ck/s1209/20230717_102553.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVBq3pvCVLrXhWuDcehjeNHm28bhPcN6KLJ4HQGJRBdMKRL1U1qIWhNDCVcDeqKrP5IO1VgQ7zEtZAH1Py58IDuG0FDHEej720lhaaV2GXZBx5iFtLps0sFUfU-VMMkRk0-4E8aTxnaDJPlrccFNMDXCGI0_y6KTuunsrZZ78szX_wg0C5ZklIxFpw1ck/s320/20230717_102553.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Putin y Zelenski son tiranos</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVyuDObhSWs2TXzvhvhLRLwXIdedvEjyxuH5KbDLHGGZ329S24iJG21FMGWRaDa5u2EM12qMxtXLGZwuU3qHyDZkl_Vb1yNp-wN1OcsYZMzIaXHVb0zoCRUga90DUSexrlRZ-WQ4vLXzmqOq5HtYdnWDn-zCx3KrHMUhpaa5dwYr9gOWjZJbzVhcqNTUI/s1209/20230717_102555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVyuDObhSWs2TXzvhvhLRLwXIdedvEjyxuH5KbDLHGGZ329S24iJG21FMGWRaDa5u2EM12qMxtXLGZwuU3qHyDZkl_Vb1yNp-wN1OcsYZMzIaXHVb0zoCRUga90DUSexrlRZ-WQ4vLXzmqOq5HtYdnWDn-zCx3KrHMUhpaa5dwYr9gOWjZJbzVhcqNTUI/s320/20230717_102555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LFGcHBDqBDEO0kaM6jXNwUeQeZ6elqzJ_5gPatyq7V3uRI9U6iVH1oNzfaRlojER9vzXXVmSwmn92il4u68-uZ03-sra80jSKI6sFgIPsDa0x3oFPmd4qa7GKGFM6jJKpT3ful2gB92qU6lDPRHOG1r5SWBmyXXOsKOzADaJUVCNgE6wp7SuP3QeQe0/s1209/20230717_102558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LFGcHBDqBDEO0kaM6jXNwUeQeZ6elqzJ_5gPatyq7V3uRI9U6iVH1oNzfaRlojER9vzXXVmSwmn92il4u68-uZ03-sra80jSKI6sFgIPsDa0x3oFPmd4qa7GKGFM6jJKpT3ful2gB92qU6lDPRHOG1r5SWBmyXXOsKOzADaJUVCNgE6wp7SuP3QeQe0/s320/20230717_102558.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Purtroppo non ci è permesso fare una visita completa del villaggio, che oggi è "chiuso", ovvero non ha guide disponibili per accompagnarci. Possiamo solo vedere i principali edifici, parlare con alcune ragazze che gestiscono una tienda de artesania e apprezzare come i passamontagna e le bandane a coprire il volto di queste ribelli siano stati sostituiti da ampie mascherine ricamate. Zeitgeist dell'era post-covid. Temevo di trovarmi in mezzo a facce torve e intimidanti, invece vedo solo grandi occhi scuri e sorridenti. La guardia all'ingresso non ci chiede nemmeno i passaporti, cosa che di solito è prassi. E' vietato scattare foto alle persone, ovviamente: sono pur sempre ribelli, per quanto in una fase di "guerra light" con , fortunatamente, pochi scontri violenti (pochi, non nessuno). Purtroppo la nostra visita dura poco, e quindi viene presto il momento di saltare sul primo combis che passa per raggiungere la prossima destinazione: San Juan Chamula. La strada corre di nuovo tra i pueblos nativi della Sierra. La gente parla solo tzotzil.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0QkTs-_TjzhE9BMFMmF6bcSHc_uSws-2FGaZFPOrOsd2Yw8Kd6QOjuv2TOgfLrE4uHGeawElYjJBhajZ3i7Lhvoz1jDhPAvJr7v1TLgbdDFjgG9ynPhQcI80L3Yjay3OyP5NAh-Y26slpLFnED95rVAC11kSslP5CZ2YOjKvSYvERFDjiQIMag8FK1Q/s1209/20230717_110221.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL0QkTs-_TjzhE9BMFMmF6bcSHc_uSws-2FGaZFPOrOsd2Yw8Kd6QOjuv2TOgfLrE4uHGeawElYjJBhajZ3i7Lhvoz1jDhPAvJr7v1TLgbdDFjgG9ynPhQcI80L3Yjay3OyP5NAh-Y26slpLFnED95rVAC11kSslP5CZ2YOjKvSYvERFDjiQIMag8FK1Q/s320/20230717_110221.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnUHKInSVxVEXGKfXrLMfaxsqzRRi8Z3Z2Rlqm5DXq6WIck8FRPWgF0NC-zeqJq6kuQvIAKtPt0y1KWW5gRURTBCdRogF7Q_iuXigaNXnJn6Uzi7o_92IxxQvr_FU3oNear2wYp7OuJ_zTb_30htYqIdr0fEDmBDbygPVVsnOybEvz1qoCf0e0UWa0C44/s1209/20230717_110226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnUHKInSVxVEXGKfXrLMfaxsqzRRi8Z3Z2Rlqm5DXq6WIck8FRPWgF0NC-zeqJq6kuQvIAKtPt0y1KWW5gRURTBCdRogF7Q_iuXigaNXnJn6Uzi7o_92IxxQvr_FU3oNear2wYp7OuJ_zTb_30htYqIdr0fEDmBDbygPVVsnOybEvz1qoCf0e0UWa0C44/s320/20230717_110226.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIv_Q6Ix-SFd71iUmUqK2iW5sZ-g4G3TKYPNEtTd6jygdGhZ32RfoyH1gqh7posDo3jmFC67s2IUB5AtULU5FNCdN1YsYVf8-Zkh5kqb5VamqMoQO21Hpv2vI-XU72zqj4uLyf5KA6PR3X4FnrelTNOCTKlTJlQIF_08My0HILRvzoLxtMfFEL_b7lNUM/s1209/20230717_110727.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIv_Q6Ix-SFd71iUmUqK2iW5sZ-g4G3TKYPNEtTd6jygdGhZ32RfoyH1gqh7posDo3jmFC67s2IUB5AtULU5FNCdN1YsYVf8-Zkh5kqb5VamqMoQO21Hpv2vI-XU72zqj4uLyf5KA6PR3X4FnrelTNOCTKlTJlQIF_08My0HILRvzoLxtMfFEL_b7lNUM/s320/20230717_110727.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A San Juan Chamula vive un gruppo di etnia tzotzil particolarmente fiero e indipendente, i chamula, appunto. Gli uomini indossano tuniche di lana bianca o nera tessute a mano; chi ha un cargo, cioè una carica religiosa o cerimoniale, ha anche una fascia bianca intorno al capo. Le donne vestono con camice bianche o azzurre e gonne di lana. La domenica si tiene il mercato e da tutte le colline si radunano qui i chamula delle colline circostanti. Anche negli altri giorni, comunque, non mancano bancarelle e venditori di ogni sorta. Attraversiamo il villaggio diretti verso la chiesa, che è il nostro focus di interesse, e ora vi spiego perchè. Anticipo che il villaggio pullula di bambini e ragazzini che non vanno a scuola e sono impegnati nei più disparati lavori. Molto portano borse di merci da vendere tenendole come zaini ma senza spallacci, bensì con un manico di corda che si appoggia alla fronte. Hanno anche campanelle o trombette clacson per segnalarsi. In giro si vedono tanti uomini ubriachi, perchè qui si usa e abusa di pox (posh), bevanda alcolica fatta con mais, canna da zuccheo e grano. Era usato dai maya nei rituali, e oggi, non diversamente, si beve nelle cerimonie. Le donne lavorano.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDka3k2tWCFqz3BH7oiSE2zaVfC9PnKbIdMMv_ta273TCFOF6uzTRUKko8eFT3-Oy07ZORQ1xGbi4Agzihm9IFuiUTDSI_ze832IuM7bxaLcyl6rozTFiYaYwliWHFvN2C6kktXqhYA0BPKwjEoxgN3u1cyE5nvS-o6QnrE9Ve1vgb-mcxD32HT5AShwc/s1209/20230717_111428.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDka3k2tWCFqz3BH7oiSE2zaVfC9PnKbIdMMv_ta273TCFOF6uzTRUKko8eFT3-Oy07ZORQ1xGbi4Agzihm9IFuiUTDSI_ze832IuM7bxaLcyl6rozTFiYaYwliWHFvN2C6kktXqhYA0BPKwjEoxgN3u1cyE5nvS-o6QnrE9Ve1vgb-mcxD32HT5AShwc/s320/20230717_111428.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPl_14GkSntBvo3Ey01WHylnpd1MDlaWI9kWE_rpTsoNrQYPKYv4fR_9-hY2clEJm6ov5L5YAC2YMFZ7bV3WcZuHsD-6fWH-ngonDP1uK4zliJX8pvM4Actm_Po4q_7DBYPN78S1me2XDnF6grMhRspT5bTxRjcojooUnkS4d3siG9PiCVyb6URl3a8w/s1209/20230717_112002.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_qW8u1Ax-2Ug3MKPy65WfQx0YkZBZkqBx9nVahvc2aJsn3ezF-HFYVYH51RkQg_-AmJCYNbRcRM_xLscjDVQ5ikG6CJBA46Jl5taJm7XrH8O-VahUWB4ks6ZS8mJLL4vSTuxHnNLdA9gPd7_wPG_Q4oYeaBPFFvYAcPUS--Xka7Vag4AUV7mBsuzw7T0/s1209/20230717_112910.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_qW8u1Ax-2Ug3MKPy65WfQx0YkZBZkqBx9nVahvc2aJsn3ezF-HFYVYH51RkQg_-AmJCYNbRcRM_xLscjDVQ5ikG6CJBA46Jl5taJm7XrH8O-VahUWB4ks6ZS8mJLL4vSTuxHnNLdA9gPd7_wPG_Q4oYeaBPFFvYAcPUS--Xka7Vag4AUV7mBsuzw7T0/s320/20230717_112910.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxUspjY-PJXUvBsB7OqJ4V3gcs5awWSVuh5m6YM0go-K9fET2zOW0tILsy8bSc__0-UzyIHvOrjuhdlfHIpgJSekB7GGe_nVwKfMtqjg-ogCslR9_qf-NAwrkg1wwrlBwW92sAqG9ZCNMpr0nGN9Xt-9Rl8PQg7PGa5Uy4H9xrytvaRQfT-FutJyvNFc/s1209/20230717_112937.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo aver superato l'ampia piazza centrale, che è un mercato disseminato di ambulanti, croci, statue ed edifici pubblici, raggiungiamo la chiesa di San Giovanni. E' vietatissimo fare foto di qualsiasi tipo, anche di sfuggita. Quando entriamo una coppia di americani sta discutendo animatamente con una gruppo nutrito e bellicoso di custodi, che ha tutta l'aria di voler distruggere gli Iphone dei gringos, che, a loro avviso, sostengono di aver messo una bella mancia nella cassetta delle offerte. Vabe'. Noi non abbiamo voluto correre rischi, quindi vi dovete accontentare della descrizione verbis. Questa è la facciata della chiesa. Fin qui niente di strano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXM6e4TSdEt2rqlfpAtiKzngGY7KYyt-AtIdH3XonSXtUQ0Au07Fr7bAt1iEDwvWUqL3likyL1Bqk453hms5PZ8A_Xgd1L13tCqrfqZsoH1VX3qqhs0MCtjZg4L-JmLQNm-jJjvyt310xPHvvRXP6jtnWy7-XFgEwCYE9MzD0Av2QrF5z6EpO8iTs0ptQ/s1209/20230717_113330.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXM6e4TSdEt2rqlfpAtiKzngGY7KYyt-AtIdH3XonSXtUQ0Au07Fr7bAt1iEDwvWUqL3likyL1Bqk453hms5PZ8A_Xgd1L13tCqrfqZsoH1VX3qqhs0MCtjZg4L-JmLQNm-jJjvyt310xPHvvRXP6jtnWy7-XFgEwCYE9MzD0Av2QrF5z6EpO8iTs0ptQ/s320/20230717_113330.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quando si entra, ci si trova catapultatati in uno spazio buio e spoglio. Non ci sono sedie, panche, altari, cappelle, inginocchiatoi, pulpiti o confessionali. Il pavimento è completamente coperto da uno spesso tappeto di aghi di pino verdi, lunghi e sottili, che profumano di resina. A terra e su lunghi tavoli ai lati dell'unica navata ardono migliaia di candele di tutte le forme e dimensioni, molte delle quali contenute in bicchieri. Quelle a terra, una volta sciolte, vengono raccolte da addetti alla pulizia. Il profumo dell'incenso di copale e il fumo addensato rendono l'aria greve. Fa anche molto caldo, rispetto al fresco che c'è fuori. A terra, sugli aghi di pino, stanno inginocchiati o seduti molti fedeli, da bimbi piccoli ad anziani che sembrano avere 400 anni. Sull'altare maggiore, l'unico, campeggia una statua di San Giovanni, venerato dai chamula più di Cristo, che infatti sta alla sua destra. Lungo le pareti ci sono teche d'argento e specchi con statue di santi vestite. Se già tutto questo è strano, aspettate, siamo solo all'inizio. Molti fedeli stanno con lo sguardo fisso a terra o salmodiano dondolando. Ma altri sono nel pieno di riti che ben spiegano la parola "sincretismo". Davanti all'altare c'è una famiglia, padre, madre, tre figli, tra i 3 e 10 anni. Hanno davanti a loro una gallina morta, una pozza di sangue, e una gallina che sta morendo, appena sgozzata. La tiene il padre per le zampe, a testa in giù. La madre, intanto fa girare bicchieroni pieni di pox (ne bevono anche i bambini) alternati a bicchieroni di Coca Cola. Si ritiene infatti che i rutti facciano uscire dal corpo gli spiriti maligni, mentre i sacrifici animali permettano la guarigione dalle malattie. Questo avviene a un lato dell'altare. All'altro, un curandero strofina un uovo su una signora anziana che beve un mix di Coca Cola e Sprite. Altri, con sacchetti di uova, sono in attesa del loro turno; intanto accendono file e file di candele a terra. </div>Non so quanto a lungo restiamo dentro alla chiesa ad osservare quanto accade tra le mura di questa chiesa. Non so quanto io abbia elaborato in piena coscienza quel che ho visto. So che non sarà facile trovare di nuovo, altrove, un simile esempio di sincretismo, complessità e stratificazione storica.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9swBj7dzqL37Z1behJOAhfnMjnsJzdgYQPkMuBxGkQQGH45LXRGaO5IoCciLckUIrKZAI6O82Eadn3uKl5ETFgK9N4zIUpObNvrKyzS4J7AX7PITITLuiGD2ZkYQ2SXsiqSh-btI5ArDSzvQZVTOOkKdamOVJ4zQEmDD75SFIFPif_xiFX7_rOsjzRI/s1209/20230717_113337.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9swBj7dzqL37Z1behJOAhfnMjnsJzdgYQPkMuBxGkQQGH45LXRGaO5IoCciLckUIrKZAI6O82Eadn3uKl5ETFgK9N4zIUpObNvrKyzS4J7AX7PITITLuiGD2ZkYQ2SXsiqSh-btI5ArDSzvQZVTOOkKdamOVJ4zQEmDD75SFIFPif_xiFX7_rOsjzRI/s320/20230717_113337.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quando usciamo veniamo circondati da Cristina e i suoi amici, venditori, per lo più ambulanti, che conoscono qualche parola in tutte le principali lingue turistiche. A questo giro non solo compriamo un po' di manufatti artigianali (questi non sono made in China, la produzione avviene in loco davanti ai nostri occhi), ma Gigi, avendo fatto l'errore di estrarre un portamonete pieno di bronzini, viene preso d'assalto. La scena è buffa e tragica a un tempo. Chi gli si accalca intorno pensa di aver trovato il pollo da spennare, noi vediamo l'abisso della miseria in quelle mani tese, che prima son solo di bimbi, poi anche di adulti. Chiedono la monetina, un pesito. Gigi dà fondo a tutti i pesitos che ha, ma ognuno di quelli pesa tra sterno e stomaco come un macigno. Mi torna in mente l'abuelita di El Aguacatal. "Conosci il potere del denaro?". Eccolo qui. E' quello che fa perdere la dignità agli esseri umani, a prescindere dal lato della bilancia su cui si trovano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXMhEetkBqmWEO8lgg3680RXOjyZgZUzetTiSAbYBz1ALD__jIIFVrwcqFBf_3bg3AKsYQV1dRa6-IpM6fyOt1QVtSrf0XyEawdlCbJ4mY754B_99N_xP4BrPBOH9C6lJzcK-0UXHJCuk3v_m8ZX3ecWpo8iXLuWAT7QbZHH9Xent0xDN4a2d6TCiCak/s1209/20230717_115922.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXMhEetkBqmWEO8lgg3680RXOjyZgZUzetTiSAbYBz1ALD__jIIFVrwcqFBf_3bg3AKsYQV1dRa6-IpM6fyOt1QVtSrf0XyEawdlCbJ4mY754B_99N_xP4BrPBOH9C6lJzcK-0UXHJCuk3v_m8ZX3ecWpo8iXLuWAT7QbZHH9Xent0xDN4a2d6TCiCak/s320/20230717_115922.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqbIFb4F_7aRIEDBWFUFvMjgDXA9iAB3xKAYHQ75SNXh4vLPaYSOeerhzJMXaxQvPhWf_MsIS7oUhRi7OBCO6Oh24KyrrI3XEkFqQH3b22YkX6du401fdJLrP-mGKn-j-w4cs_MzyuvhZAkxxZQavv-3SDmpAEVwkQnvwt8cVGWDkZTv2uoLiotYmYeE/s1209/20230717_115929.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqbIFb4F_7aRIEDBWFUFvMjgDXA9iAB3xKAYHQ75SNXh4vLPaYSOeerhzJMXaxQvPhWf_MsIS7oUhRi7OBCO6Oh24KyrrI3XEkFqQH3b22YkX6du401fdJLrP-mGKn-j-w4cs_MzyuvhZAkxxZQavv-3SDmpAEVwkQnvwt8cVGWDkZTv2uoLiotYmYeE/s320/20230717_115929.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2OGiUJP11bdtHAQqC-ufc_SpjUz4IIALBokuBfrBH-H1KC1h6_aOR04VOnDgU6txsjrhH1moOioTf0OPF-wpq2fJwk1ox0n3d3ksIbg5DE0VzmrcxK5GzK9G-bfoX7V7ge8uS8_HmqCOyXRDcxyOrcpNsaE9wNSYhX__waBd8Aw591jVZRO01gaU30tg/s1209/20230717_115939.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2OGiUJP11bdtHAQqC-ufc_SpjUz4IIALBokuBfrBH-H1KC1h6_aOR04VOnDgU6txsjrhH1moOioTf0OPF-wpq2fJwk1ox0n3d3ksIbg5DE0VzmrcxK5GzK9G-bfoX7V7ge8uS8_HmqCOyXRDcxyOrcpNsaE9wNSYhX__waBd8Aw591jVZRO01gaU30tg/s320/20230717_115939.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_w8zRgw73WZvhIVqiGcfg2GSHl99aRQps0WWqlMLL2LfdVcYdUfjBSASziVBMa78r-3JuE9rZcw74fQE8eVvshnXvvNp874-Bb9VfdV1xAf7c0tAuf7Y5hiHS12joXP4GRUuK018ioZka_APgHGOVe86cToU7minaH09pgNajjNEjWIGllwekJxGkWI/s1209/20230717_115947.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_w8zRgw73WZvhIVqiGcfg2GSHl99aRQps0WWqlMLL2LfdVcYdUfjBSASziVBMa78r-3JuE9rZcw74fQE8eVvshnXvvNp874-Bb9VfdV1xAf7c0tAuf7Y5hiHS12joXP4GRUuK018ioZka_APgHGOVe86cToU7minaH09pgNajjNEjWIGllwekJxGkWI/s320/20230717_115947.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhglNQ5aEY4Oi0PFjAO39oyWYp7cq61XYDkWjfc72zVv4WB87qjnNd87KccBnIy1DN2OlrATU7lG7eUJNt14ByBjwAjKt6OBjc2hNMQbWwpcc-dIMB5tu_x3PfJBUngW8GveDM2pnbxCeazLvaBQ9V7nrgZOAu4n7MI0VvwPGlR1YpMqT1SRjtmd0EZ168/s1209/20230717_120004.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhglNQ5aEY4Oi0PFjAO39oyWYp7cq61XYDkWjfc72zVv4WB87qjnNd87KccBnIy1DN2OlrATU7lG7eUJNt14ByBjwAjKt6OBjc2hNMQbWwpcc-dIMB5tu_x3PfJBUngW8GveDM2pnbxCeazLvaBQ9V7nrgZOAu4n7MI0VvwPGlR1YpMqT1SRjtmd0EZ168/s320/20230717_120004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSUisTJ2oTXRuw-5HsJdgDpkLdEABd6X9vJhMJZ8XckOfxCzjmauaaOnp9wSqk1rM9N9LS4x5ygRY4VIRRsuscWEMDcPH3fbREFgwEyfhc6sf0SF23crOKkdxcFjjM8NEaAFisVvXp528Mm31a3-x8bNfjdURS9rV-N3i-ZyE9bYH20dnxf5N5JmHyMCg/s1209/20230717_120209.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSUisTJ2oTXRuw-5HsJdgDpkLdEABd6X9vJhMJZ8XckOfxCzjmauaaOnp9wSqk1rM9N9LS4x5ygRY4VIRRsuscWEMDcPH3fbREFgwEyfhc6sf0SF23crOKkdxcFjjM8NEaAFisVvXp528Mm31a3-x8bNfjdURS9rV-N3i-ZyE9bYH20dnxf5N5JmHyMCg/s320/20230717_120209.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbTzaOFqg_6-sqqsYYo-0yDfYw7gTHecUIlsaKCz2Vu7Lr_E5wISoMUYsnuNs5_2iEmGno7cLkxmvIfk2fUfWnFUUo4lzVK-bhlz3FvWxZsfuxijtCDGQ0TSxpJIKFmbOQRZGiVXyym5MVPRESWLQ2a_0IUIGgELD5AdP1OfcQ_MHXuZ28uD7BQkLBGwY/s1209/20230717_120332.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbTzaOFqg_6-sqqsYYo-0yDfYw7gTHecUIlsaKCz2Vu7Lr_E5wISoMUYsnuNs5_2iEmGno7cLkxmvIfk2fUfWnFUUo4lzVK-bhlz3FvWxZsfuxijtCDGQ0TSxpJIKFmbOQRZGiVXyym5MVPRESWLQ2a_0IUIGgELD5AdP1OfcQ_MHXuZ28uD7BQkLBGwY/s320/20230717_120332.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">donne che macinano il mais e producono tortillas in un forno comune sulla strada</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTVkYcksh6bmUqwv1t0Oy5bh-p6BYZMGcXqz2ai3BFI80jYzdwD3dRai-qL1Ti4rJMm_DYavo7eRT7v2BcSFJ5kzA4Cp-R9r0rXfXDWp_tBVOYrZtkUDKVGTYZdWbmC68oA2m423gfj1aYIeEHepIQ0s7fEDzAWlWw5AI25tg_TrTK32kB797Da2ab50/s1209/20230717_122236.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTVkYcksh6bmUqwv1t0Oy5bh-p6BYZMGcXqz2ai3BFI80jYzdwD3dRai-qL1Ti4rJMm_DYavo7eRT7v2BcSFJ5kzA4Cp-R9r0rXfXDWp_tBVOYrZtkUDKVGTYZdWbmC68oA2m423gfj1aYIeEHepIQ0s7fEDzAWlWw5AI25tg_TrTK32kB797Da2ab50/s320/20230717_122236.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCQRBzEbNb3R63EMLX3KiBeLR--keP1Vu4kyJG9fDUl7rimQoPTIxbPPV13S4Me37NSdhTzaJ4vw3CMlHtN7DK3OP_nLy8GcvM3ryYL56D40qZty1TpIH5SCv_PCpNyURgkBQiw-qmr1iNYYpX_ymbUJ57BAo-oKcXTiUSMCRQ40ijKG1uloVJBUeWvSs/s1209/20230717_122954.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCQRBzEbNb3R63EMLX3KiBeLR--keP1Vu4kyJG9fDUl7rimQoPTIxbPPV13S4Me37NSdhTzaJ4vw3CMlHtN7DK3OP_nLy8GcvM3ryYL56D40qZty1TpIH5SCv_PCpNyURgkBQiw-qmr1iNYYpX_ymbUJ57BAo-oKcXTiUSMCRQ40ijKG1uloVJBUeWvSs/s320/20230717_122954.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo aver camminato un po' tra le vie di San Juan Chamula per smaltire lo choc culturale, troviamo un passaggio per l'ultima tappa di oggi, San Lorenzo Zinacantan, un tranquillo villaggio tzotzil, ma non chamula. Gli abiti, qui sono diversi: le donne hanno camicie rosa o viola con elaborati ricami floreali, gli uomini tuniche rosa del pari ricamate, e anche cappelli di palma a tesa larga. Qui gira meno pox e c'è meno diffidenza nei confronti dei turisti. L'attività tradizionale, oltre alla tessitura, è la coltivazione dei fiori, soprattutto gerani, che vengono offerti in chiesa in rituali propiziatori. Ad accoglierci, all'ingresso del villaggio, c'è infatti il mercato dei fiori (quando arriviamo noi è in via di chiusura). Per visitare il paese si paga una "tassa turistica" di 15 pesos (circa 0,7 euro).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEFUhdNEhpPK1thNfMVK8dGZyBXny5vkP2kkWuDSk17iazJGUVD2qSuPzMOpIgPhlVKBsWsCSoH8jV2e5IXbvrp2z0dcbQIPD1dJmvgCDlLD9URH8Nf927CJ26oZ-rf5REwJ9AcB8c9ugUtvUt8x0cxRcnfXLuqPcBuVO-OT6DZZyi7A3o2_XaTYnvjkU/s1209/20230717_123321.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEFUhdNEhpPK1thNfMVK8dGZyBXny5vkP2kkWuDSk17iazJGUVD2qSuPzMOpIgPhlVKBsWsCSoH8jV2e5IXbvrp2z0dcbQIPD1dJmvgCDlLD9URH8Nf927CJ26oZ-rf5REwJ9AcB8c9ugUtvUt8x0cxRcnfXLuqPcBuVO-OT6DZZyi7A3o2_XaTYnvjkU/s320/20230717_123321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuZgc7hOS_N5xdr43zk9C_G_fM1fxXjA-U_E3BKDAbLfZhhPymtVoL8pv9g7Zm1MbKH7Et7u_sz0eyjE-yhV6E0fAuV4JbE9vL09-5KVmid2GT06UNZjMt-QYHCOpqXQscPcaTmjrqQ-KRJbRiI5Dh_5Qtg9GtPNs8CUIgIaSvd4Zt9P0GlQjjh_oM_I/s1209/20230717_124544.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuZgc7hOS_N5xdr43zk9C_G_fM1fxXjA-U_E3BKDAbLfZhhPymtVoL8pv9g7Zm1MbKH7Et7u_sz0eyjE-yhV6E0fAuV4JbE9vL09-5KVmid2GT06UNZjMt-QYHCOpqXQscPcaTmjrqQ-KRJbRiI5Dh_5Qtg9GtPNs8CUIgIaSvd4Zt9P0GlQjjh_oM_I/s320/20230717_124544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLcJtHKDq7ysQGpuRVdsBV8yC1LUEk2F1QPf1nBl801rFU7UnPTKki5vckAR4_34PGnGC8h5nCKbywj3tRTgn_8r6WuCnu48Kkxwc6mFpcY1GUydTocGt1HgMGWEoWku08wlsWGxxyLp0Ki9Unx5Zda6wrkVLe_mmg-7Ky8NOTTqLn5VA9kUxqbO1rxS4/s1209/20230717_125414.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLcJtHKDq7ysQGpuRVdsBV8yC1LUEk2F1QPf1nBl801rFU7UnPTKki5vckAR4_34PGnGC8h5nCKbywj3tRTgn_8r6WuCnu48Kkxwc6mFpcY1GUydTocGt1HgMGWEoWku08wlsWGxxyLp0Ki9Unx5Zda6wrkVLe_mmg-7Ky8NOTTqLn5VA9kUxqbO1rxS4/s320/20230717_125414.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUnFvZDqXST_NeQnE_KAytyLZ_tOQZUhU5D8-7Q4d3zrd2cx9BiDU2muI5YQwxC9McXVhI39zDMNx8A5nF82XEKumg4xrzbtWBGFeSVGO5m2QNRlutzGkRs7mTYkPanVoTfg2jGl58K20ubKa7m-wNXXoKqGujj0l-hCzFWlxX2k3E4MvOSFx7a6uEHjU/s1209/20230717_125439.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUnFvZDqXST_NeQnE_KAytyLZ_tOQZUhU5D8-7Q4d3zrd2cx9BiDU2muI5YQwxC9McXVhI39zDMNx8A5nF82XEKumg4xrzbtWBGFeSVGO5m2QNRlutzGkRs7mTYkPanVoTfg2jGl58K20ubKa7m-wNXXoKqGujj0l-hCzFWlxX2k3E4MvOSFx7a6uEHjU/s320/20230717_125439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5AwsGoO8vVb9W29Z1jmAkB-O6x1_WnxOo0YNY782oHv6my714ODjme35zbt2dqCBNuvBQ1E3XhWdiCHrskK6vVwbG8vh0QTG-rYR3kJ3imYT1_Vbcc2kposUpqxqB8Vhq7ezS5OpLgFz-hpFOgWeIyBhBwQNQgJbSFqraytJOpGkHuA6YlLHQxTrWKY/s1209/20230717_125526.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5AwsGoO8vVb9W29Z1jmAkB-O6x1_WnxOo0YNY782oHv6my714ODjme35zbt2dqCBNuvBQ1E3XhWdiCHrskK6vVwbG8vh0QTG-rYR3kJ3imYT1_Vbcc2kposUpqxqB8Vhq7ezS5OpLgFz-hpFOgWeIyBhBwQNQgJbSFqraytJOpGkHuA6YlLHQxTrWKY/s320/20230717_125526.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B-TO9LP1SZ2zm6O7ViNecfU-vLPiAbx_4mjag8w0zKy1qbKVj2BAKKXWYN9Sl78smOsjtfdvNaNJkCQ4n4Fc96fxkOQxC_84X7NxvTvh6Pwd5MyTUTJvD4PWzdwkLwrfw9CRzJLlgobBO6rbFjWVrxLRtMwtRkZcKvVNJlb6dQD8o8pyLaXtUhxDpbE/s1209/20230717_125731.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B-TO9LP1SZ2zm6O7ViNecfU-vLPiAbx_4mjag8w0zKy1qbKVj2BAKKXWYN9Sl78smOsjtfdvNaNJkCQ4n4Fc96fxkOQxC_84X7NxvTvh6Pwd5MyTUTJvD4PWzdwkLwrfw9CRzJLlgobBO6rbFjWVrxLRtMwtRkZcKvVNJlb6dQD8o8pyLaXtUhxDpbE/s320/20230717_125731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ0hPq1mO1aI8nShrJU8P9axy8klxRw3UPTrBFimaVJtGycdywOSc1gQAhtuPmjXCDWSKd_JvRCDmoGY26rnq0drvJ4WBLkk0Hg5Hr0D0Nu7gZXVnSCNYtupbBTsstA3DZMj7tOewjTWIJnPSkwfqY2n8K_bgbJwElLakb1D1aL3EVb0Rtfk-Rm_Sa2JY/s1209/20230717_130010.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ0hPq1mO1aI8nShrJU8P9axy8klxRw3UPTrBFimaVJtGycdywOSc1gQAhtuPmjXCDWSKd_JvRCDmoGY26rnq0drvJ4WBLkk0Hg5Hr0D0Nu7gZXVnSCNYtupbBTsstA3DZMj7tOewjTWIJnPSkwfqY2n8K_bgbJwElLakb1D1aL3EVb0Rtfk-Rm_Sa2JY/s320/20230717_130010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">La centralissima chiesa di San Lorenzo, che domani la città, è stata ricostruita dopo un incendio, nel 1975. Al suo interno ci sono fiori ad ornare l'altare e tanti toritos (li chiamo così alla stregua di quelli peruani) e animalitos vari che fungono da incensieri. Sono identici a quelli visti nei musei tra i reperti maya. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkXT_xYz5Y3bJh9XZ5qs70SdhMhULSrl1FqvtE62pH7T7SkpAxMdZHErfTCUdgS9MfWSXK4Cksj3ktTBn4evb0SGG48JwGYg7PS7esO08o38cTViahiKIaAo3Sp3B5Wesc0GPsGRTuT3Zevv_l_pivESeC38GbHcwHAiQjSC1ofxSyqDKP9KD3z4rzC-I/s1209/20230717_130051.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkXT_xYz5Y3bJh9XZ5qs70SdhMhULSrl1FqvtE62pH7T7SkpAxMdZHErfTCUdgS9MfWSXK4Cksj3ktTBn4evb0SGG48JwGYg7PS7esO08o38cTViahiKIaAo3Sp3B5Wesc0GPsGRTuT3Zevv_l_pivESeC38GbHcwHAiQjSC1ofxSyqDKP9KD3z4rzC-I/s320/20230717_130051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCDZ2EY1Dy9YGRGuOYzEgcPWFIBE0qdZEYwrCYk29ghklBcRPI_X1QbEhFBDra7HRsI_N59KV8FWe1VaN0pe0GEFFXk5elP4Ml3cNkWNqwvRUTI0mCP7_cn5WCS3p-KQD56L4D-Z2iYMMAavHjjTx4KtxV99qs_POrDxBX18m5rDUM92uqNf_ISeUmGUs/s1209/20230717_130200.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCDZ2EY1Dy9YGRGuOYzEgcPWFIBE0qdZEYwrCYk29ghklBcRPI_X1QbEhFBDra7HRsI_N59KV8FWe1VaN0pe0GEFFXk5elP4Ml3cNkWNqwvRUTI0mCP7_cn5WCS3p-KQD56L4D-Z2iYMMAavHjjTx4KtxV99qs_POrDxBX18m5rDUM92uqNf_ISeUmGUs/s320/20230717_130200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzKYLp7Kj3bDWjz7XiD_lSg1UdK4VY9fsCo3AT2AYOHNdeNBwm_ph84WCjPGXOPJN2KnMC9XKXK8yfRq8Fct1JOIJzTlalsh0pqRCZlcjmB5niFCfV4-aTbhWUgPZ7IyhocoyqcFuzjudt2nk9Ic2fePM4AfeVVITNd3i9jvVzcYWvE9bUs1qlJ4qlG8/s1209/20230717_130243.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzKYLp7Kj3bDWjz7XiD_lSg1UdK4VY9fsCo3AT2AYOHNdeNBwm_ph84WCjPGXOPJN2KnMC9XKXK8yfRq8Fct1JOIJzTlalsh0pqRCZlcjmB5niFCfV4-aTbhWUgPZ7IyhocoyqcFuzjudt2nk9Ic2fePM4AfeVVITNd3i9jvVzcYWvE9bUs1qlJ4qlG8/s320/20230717_130243.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBecwe0iGItX0EYyIinJjiF5csdg5O9N2wBenZrLaNaDj2apSVzoMspbGfOTZm5VBpP4ajfFRJSyyATso2V5_M2Iljcj1JWWnftTr8sdFviT4P0uA4JcFllFZ7xBQ8yCYwOG27P_WYRHWG1_2Dc8BIF7o2KOtRcNMJTovD64HEyUQ7xcbbGS0y6-Eq9Oc/s320/20230717_130941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD78HR1IpjpampgRLx5--ANZjPMwqk66Y-RESyST9lnJ17-8ZDQw_w9ZWHgMlePcW79FCiFUYe2CorIlLVf6c5-UNdofyiwXjevIFQ8fzm3pgTf8XjQDR5_wtsw9qG6iwIVvprWb80lA4eDS4JNJd4EB0e8USAmmDyjDfH5xwfVMEGrfvRyHnXuUGHk8k/s1209/20230717_131057.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD78HR1IpjpampgRLx5--ANZjPMwqk66Y-RESyST9lnJ17-8ZDQw_w9ZWHgMlePcW79FCiFUYe2CorIlLVf6c5-UNdofyiwXjevIFQ8fzm3pgTf8XjQDR5_wtsw9qG6iwIVvprWb80lA4eDS4JNJd4EB0e8USAmmDyjDfH5xwfVMEGrfvRyHnXuUGHk8k/s320/20230717_131057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQTOy46xBhT-Jz4cO6QP2netvnsTmXYrkCO6CU5lTchjAeWYIb2to4bctCijJiZ6FQp9gCn_-dGEm2YWKNBGdB2mrDRAOuUeIHSEUiORW3SMgKjzb8XX63fuRtjhg_w45n7UbgU_J9Mo4gTXGsfZbZrA1ZWWZC1y2hv3hDvrvx_uUegt56A9B_EXxFhPo/s1209/20230717_131152.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQTOy46xBhT-Jz4cO6QP2netvnsTmXYrkCO6CU5lTchjAeWYIb2to4bctCijJiZ6FQp9gCn_-dGEm2YWKNBGdB2mrDRAOuUeIHSEUiORW3SMgKjzb8XX63fuRtjhg_w45n7UbgU_J9Mo4gTXGsfZbZrA1ZWWZC1y2hv3hDvrvx_uUegt56A9B_EXxFhPo/s320/20230717_131152.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZB_f7uFMrEb1s61MrOEPoUHwNUywHljv_eYo-D8jfS9JGmvU6W3Kqmr3hBmdZJvj3QMfh-3vf-v4p7TsOeT32mLB9wsWjOn7qkJX8foS_sMzJcrrrAbrJHUiLYmHGgeMbDKeYPKZ_KOtZiyIkzqEY6eYLczxU781C1ExmVxkJTC9fbsy3wLCyr9Ewg0E/s1209/20230717_131202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZB_f7uFMrEb1s61MrOEPoUHwNUywHljv_eYo-D8jfS9JGmvU6W3Kqmr3hBmdZJvj3QMfh-3vf-v4p7TsOeT32mLB9wsWjOn7qkJX8foS_sMzJcrrrAbrJHUiLYmHGgeMbDKeYPKZ_KOtZiyIkzqEY6eYLczxU781C1ExmVxkJTC9fbsy3wLCyr9Ewg0E/s320/20230717_131202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Usciti dalla chiesa, facciamo un giro nell'ampia e desolata piazza centrale, e nei campetti da basket sponsorizzati Coca Cola.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixYJbZZRwrLDfeX8dl0mcP2K_q7mqomrdBydThfpCHij-k0vZW7J9Y3vwv45zPCrB3DSbGRNNNFrr5g_NoFR_Xzt_tQMhwIOL2jlhq_Zur_mm4QTvuQaJHS_fUFqdcx-qPM_SMG4J_EFPWaDnsFx5jYzQO8j6vhL-anNLZR3nnmsCvCUKA-d1_RovJnjU/s1209/20230717_131434.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixYJbZZRwrLDfeX8dl0mcP2K_q7mqomrdBydThfpCHij-k0vZW7J9Y3vwv45zPCrB3DSbGRNNNFrr5g_NoFR_Xzt_tQMhwIOL2jlhq_Zur_mm4QTvuQaJHS_fUFqdcx-qPM_SMG4J_EFPWaDnsFx5jYzQO8j6vhL-anNLZR3nnmsCvCUKA-d1_RovJnjU/s320/20230717_131434.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkraOcoQyZFM0pCKet80N7t-zZMBnkZ-7Rtc8n-_g1HD2TzPTNKQvcfIPultP6-qwwMIOEqwi1LS7LNlBe6QW_zA7Hb66MwLrGa52fTjko0kUymHuR74lvWZZbJ175cGcZ6DMxtOvl5LTcUi75j0OgN4Vd_JakpOQlsxpiy50Ivp1osaLI-N0v7OVSC34/s1209/20230717_131612.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkraOcoQyZFM0pCKet80N7t-zZMBnkZ-7Rtc8n-_g1HD2TzPTNKQvcfIPultP6-qwwMIOEqwi1LS7LNlBe6QW_zA7Hb66MwLrGa52fTjko0kUymHuR74lvWZZbJ175cGcZ6DMxtOvl5LTcUi75j0OgN4Vd_JakpOQlsxpiy50Ivp1osaLI-N0v7OVSC34/s320/20230717_131612.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA_VtTnzTLB1i-CkQaAnePjk_kBNfHwz0KlXanDcA2IJB6eUh_cuaDKJnv1UYeGC5UuM90cQLIngm38L9GfsKtIQCas4fjXlQpG0OK2Ja4sY9yRYaa3_9xaOK9HsHg2zricVD1O62trj_2kTGxn81iGwdnxjtFh_4MOXyUE_uARbDhvHVie1Kr7lImeGU/s1209/20230717_131631.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA_VtTnzTLB1i-CkQaAnePjk_kBNfHwz0KlXanDcA2IJB6eUh_cuaDKJnv1UYeGC5UuM90cQLIngm38L9GfsKtIQCas4fjXlQpG0OK2Ja4sY9yRYaa3_9xaOK9HsHg2zricVD1O62trj_2kTGxn81iGwdnxjtFh_4MOXyUE_uARbDhvHVie1Kr7lImeGU/s320/20230717_131631.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qZ8Z_RoVOAhLbFwC2SBmbehSxF8iF66PrLnwbOb2maqM6mf63S-K3FSoDudMmQqkLGBQPDmfAqrWR2rN23mzXT-Adk8a5JyNnq8_O4CmGoBrSdoHZExo1xgWLun4HtC810v9nF2xGFMPJU4JIihI7BiKPhpRRfYqbBpsF_tkK1WaNYHeabn9tz3H87c/s1209/20230717_131712.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qZ8Z_RoVOAhLbFwC2SBmbehSxF8iF66PrLnwbOb2maqM6mf63S-K3FSoDudMmQqkLGBQPDmfAqrWR2rN23mzXT-Adk8a5JyNnq8_O4CmGoBrSdoHZExo1xgWLun4HtC810v9nF2xGFMPJU4JIihI7BiKPhpRRfYqbBpsF_tkK1WaNYHeabn9tz3H87c/s320/20230717_131712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJv5UuRt9YgKfoQ9F4iVfEmJgcqglISyD14jmlT6Qm5LNCaL7XqBHerEC8VH1qo2ZjrzuvlvqBsIhHXnbbDrKncfJOtWxBvt7brsK-Mlb-ncCOcdoCylV2-EH8l4MoHJ2BFrC4fKx_7XyDDGPR7uE-qfIa16zPzKE8MotO8puq96P3Eup142loqlmIcsE/s1209/20230717_135451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJv5UuRt9YgKfoQ9F4iVfEmJgcqglISyD14jmlT6Qm5LNCaL7XqBHerEC8VH1qo2ZjrzuvlvqBsIhHXnbbDrKncfJOtWxBvt7brsK-Mlb-ncCOcdoCylV2-EH8l4MoHJ2BFrC4fKx_7XyDDGPR7uE-qfIa16zPzKE8MotO8puq96P3Eup142loqlmIcsE/s320/20230717_135451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A questo punto abbiamo davvero visto tutto quello che si possa esperire in una giornata nei dintorni di San Cristobal. Dopo un'attesa piuttosto lunga riusciamo a prendere un colectivo per tornare a SanCris, dove sbarchiamo di nuovo nella zona del Mercado Viejo che non dorme mai.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6trObyUjRwePCHYN9MdbWZda3guTj0FgbH2Tucb3eOgxUqXtf2Xj3LAwBfUvfH9o_htw0pc1y_0gc69zzrv06HCB07NOCB0Cm3ZuFh_7AY1hxIqtyebz2QHmPqP-9lyn72hsRnhxnfwXTPU59VTkV7-Kvst_lCD_qRBOqoEYj38ngQEIg5cxCzEeA9Dw/s1209/20230717_145859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6trObyUjRwePCHYN9MdbWZda3guTj0FgbH2Tucb3eOgxUqXtf2Xj3LAwBfUvfH9o_htw0pc1y_0gc69zzrv06HCB07NOCB0Cm3ZuFh_7AY1hxIqtyebz2QHmPqP-9lyn72hsRnhxnfwXTPU59VTkV7-Kvst_lCD_qRBOqoEYj38ngQEIg5cxCzEeA9Dw/s320/20230717_145859.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5xmssLBhuCQRQ0_fzIkGMsLmNFxOZQLKPkFodv2qDGsXK7SLFx64ZIuulOzvBXDROfCLHU0CQct_MH8lyiEeitu8RGZtyBZybbjE2ZV7CtKYampdTyq0BffuRwRCmlxnPKHU3aP0ObV17iS4xFTlN8rXzZ5AoDb77ZV6islPc4wdMfn5W8m5LjQZQ6Ho/s1209/20230717_145927(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5xmssLBhuCQRQ0_fzIkGMsLmNFxOZQLKPkFodv2qDGsXK7SLFx64ZIuulOzvBXDROfCLHU0CQct_MH8lyiEeitu8RGZtyBZybbjE2ZV7CtKYampdTyq0BffuRwRCmlxnPKHU3aP0ObV17iS4xFTlN8rXzZ5AoDb77ZV6islPc4wdMfn5W8m5LjQZQ6Ho/s320/20230717_145927(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiieqUQDI7mvEPMILK25naGG2IUBK0377EGeC9G0UjwqsjJHDywFM4SpvJ8-voyiODlMjw2u-j_JVIoyF888gLt1gm3-4936mMMKC92DBxTqiNjf6X2bY13fu35au62SDMp0tKRrhRgyGNY_PL1V5hTobbFewERcApVwomUyA-qwi3tletIfoLQWMo-s3Y/s1209/20230717_145929.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiieqUQDI7mvEPMILK25naGG2IUBK0377EGeC9G0UjwqsjJHDywFM4SpvJ8-voyiODlMjw2u-j_JVIoyF888gLt1gm3-4936mMMKC92DBxTqiNjf6X2bY13fu35au62SDMp0tKRrhRgyGNY_PL1V5hTobbFewERcApVwomUyA-qwi3tletIfoLQWMo-s3Y/s320/20230717_145929.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5f-By3laX1AuSTr54mLPFSb02lG8wXJamDUYWDEkcMTjZxZmPrYs-rtI7CsTU2Y5TOczLlDZikLicG4h2UoImb5Jeh3_mbUUYIgAAznycfVoaCQTYoWev97diu0lEsr9O4CjGHsMS4HLhzeiU8HtFPLKO6eQkEY2xi_vlRZgaYaHNFqzagvpP_0QuuR4/s1209/20230717_150040.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5f-By3laX1AuSTr54mLPFSb02lG8wXJamDUYWDEkcMTjZxZmPrYs-rtI7CsTU2Y5TOczLlDZikLicG4h2UoImb5Jeh3_mbUUYIgAAznycfVoaCQTYoWev97diu0lEsr9O4CjGHsMS4HLhzeiU8HtFPLKO6eQkEY2xi_vlRZgaYaHNFqzagvpP_0QuuR4/s320/20230717_150040.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9tD8ivIyCmtGmyzyWC8vz3bYx_m0xKDRtX6lk6A8mR8i6KwETXFy33AwBM5gF6tv0559SsnocLTGlTg-BYZsnIUleME2X5katGoNsvG1dkWLaudhs_u_wlWCsDAJBTrb4ZoMyAnc-ZNPBzIrP7CcRHgzD38Nei5_muGhgJuoJffrqljpONDQ0AjoQYBo/s1209/20230717_150046.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9tD8ivIyCmtGmyzyWC8vz3bYx_m0xKDRtX6lk6A8mR8i6KwETXFy33AwBM5gF6tv0559SsnocLTGlTg-BYZsnIUleME2X5katGoNsvG1dkWLaudhs_u_wlWCsDAJBTrb4ZoMyAnc-ZNPBzIrP7CcRHgzD38Nei5_muGhgJuoJffrqljpONDQ0AjoQYBo/s320/20230717_150046.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39iFWSbiT8zLTy_SANjoDf0y4EYepXOWel9jNCPr1w0Hq1QHCnSE2k6KD0IfpVo4o8S29GHJ_hBpWzFoV1aasEFN36G_H3uQdem1cQMA0WnvcMrf6nFnmtv3lDn9UrGJpmusxkoBkplTzLb-xc-QvR-H5Dpky85Jqm7xm4yw63T7ZEmPWAf5QSsKFxdY/s1209/20230717_150049.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39iFWSbiT8zLTy_SANjoDf0y4EYepXOWel9jNCPr1w0Hq1QHCnSE2k6KD0IfpVo4o8S29GHJ_hBpWzFoV1aasEFN36G_H3uQdem1cQMA0WnvcMrf6nFnmtv3lDn9UrGJpmusxkoBkplTzLb-xc-QvR-H5Dpky85Jqm7xm4yw63T7ZEmPWAf5QSsKFxdY/s320/20230717_150049.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">quest'uso di fare piramidi di frutta e verdura non sarà la moderna forma mentis maya, che un tempo portava a erigere templi?</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3aUI4LBwlaOdrPYcezmOLmeFgzarBCW71ZRq8kdW3snbpyrx22jmJBhz1gdrc0twMyWuUJY50cXud_fQyF226j1JLJh8dXCRSvTzDCu4ohMLCV_g5IQoq5A7PMybDgHH0iFepJtqQpCvFqnlug8Ar-WYb6Gpl-gdWa9MgKbobkU5hlLto4dCjQw0IJ9g/s1209/20230717_150954.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3aUI4LBwlaOdrPYcezmOLmeFgzarBCW71ZRq8kdW3snbpyrx22jmJBhz1gdrc0twMyWuUJY50cXud_fQyF226j1JLJh8dXCRSvTzDCu4ohMLCV_g5IQoq5A7PMybDgHH0iFepJtqQpCvFqnlug8Ar-WYb6Gpl-gdWa9MgKbobkU5hlLto4dCjQw0IJ9g/s320/20230717_150954.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">souvenir: zucche laccate, polli di gomma, zampetti di vari animali e scoiattoli imbalsamati. Mentre dico a Gigi: "Ma chi è che si compra uno scoiattolo imbalsamato male, così, sulla strada?" si ferma un passante e ne compra uno.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfk_tv3gyW5Bfx_-pmbsYknQUuYpcQ_z_ETwhuWIPBfY2xwVzDraYITUqot6SxtVeWJq9cgt6x0qiyPSCUFAdkr4351OHLeScKLgqejCsNyy3dEtXKaZJ1laAmH6_m3TTi-ToX2DAexfFQ-hGv3PvNRtu_GqRdM5on04B0gjti1wEdVqGRwlnl_PH4BfI/s1209/20230717_152119.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfk_tv3gyW5Bfx_-pmbsYknQUuYpcQ_z_ETwhuWIPBfY2xwVzDraYITUqot6SxtVeWJq9cgt6x0qiyPSCUFAdkr4351OHLeScKLgqejCsNyy3dEtXKaZJ1laAmH6_m3TTi-ToX2DAexfFQ-hGv3PvNRtu_GqRdM5on04B0gjti1wEdVqGRwlnl_PH4BfI/s320/20230717_152119.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">questi invece sono i nostri acquisti dai chamula</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo una passeggiata in centro torniamo in albergo ben cotti. Ritiriamo i nostri straccetti lavati e prepariamo la tappa di domani: andremo a Chiapa de Corzo, sperando di arrivare abbastanza presto da saltare su una lancia per esplorare il Canyon del Sumidero (non voglio andar via dal Messico senza aver visto bene e da vicino dei coccodrilli! E qui ce ne sono di belli pasciuti). Il giorno successivo transiteremo da Tuxtla Gutierrez, capitale del Chiapas, senza fermaci: è sicuramente una bella città ma non suscita in me tutto questo interesse. Ora puntiamo all'Oaxaca, altro grande e meraviglioso, variegato stato dei questo paese. Destinazione della settimana? Puerto Escondido!</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Per cena, decidiamo di onorare la giornata con un passaggio al ristorante TierrAdentro, che sostiene l'EZLN e propone piatti con prodotti dei pueblos zapatisti, e li finanzia. E' anche tutto buonissimo ed economico, rispetto alle varie trappole per turisti che si trovano sui vialoni pedonali. E l'atmosfera è quella giusta!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0lYn0OqwjuHHULVKerC_ePi9NbLbHmEhvGk0hO49okR6XGiGSN9q4oENF1AY24E7MjlqSl8mpuW8NXJpU3Ik9-xDbtTDreLnWkyf0t1v6n-BH4dCuOcf2mAFXW_EAHiSFiUcp7KUhw_tzf_NQBiAWjFD7ZN_tbG8AU4euIO8XHInUXfLKcerr1w_vsA/s1209/20230717_192921.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0lYn0OqwjuHHULVKerC_ePi9NbLbHmEhvGk0hO49okR6XGiGSN9q4oENF1AY24E7MjlqSl8mpuW8NXJpU3Ik9-xDbtTDreLnWkyf0t1v6n-BH4dCuOcf2mAFXW_EAHiSFiUcp7KUhw_tzf_NQBiAWjFD7ZN_tbG8AU4euIO8XHInUXfLKcerr1w_vsA/s320/20230717_192921.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDe4mz7MImIWNtrkhe4qkW4Mn3Rys3BPMgMuYnNPfKW6eBJHTraQ55iglce_4YJjUI9oqEpEaeZ4-yH4spn4DwXpUzoNjiM2g3vLYKOySZZz2mTjesQIUWOgsMc0Y6PH0X-YkPS6N4mNzz8LD3CYK_Ogf-ulzVzY1ibIt5WRJy7LzdAkC78cgEmAf5PYk/s1209/20230717_194204.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDe4mz7MImIWNtrkhe4qkW4Mn3Rys3BPMgMuYnNPfKW6eBJHTraQ55iglce_4YJjUI9oqEpEaeZ4-yH4spn4DwXpUzoNjiM2g3vLYKOySZZz2mTjesQIUWOgsMc0Y6PH0X-YkPS6N4mNzz8LD3CYK_Ogf-ulzVzY1ibIt5WRJy7LzdAkC78cgEmAf5PYk/s320/20230717_194204.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTKRBg1ip4v_W6g3Z505ipcUD-kShRFUDq0kbDwuuBUYExxEbt05GkZlWeW733P9uPVEzfzafxctlEwwTHnXojYBuxlWm23sCyjciMVZ5fDwvGDNVn8PprHAlihGUOSPjQP4sUE2lG-_PHttOYN06Vk2SDY5LHoX8iKTph4olCdXBGdXiA6H_yG68xPs/s1209/20230717_194625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTKRBg1ip4v_W6g3Z505ipcUD-kShRFUDq0kbDwuuBUYExxEbt05GkZlWeW733P9uPVEzfzafxctlEwwTHnXojYBuxlWm23sCyjciMVZ5fDwvGDNVn8PprHAlihGUOSPjQP4sUE2lG-_PHttOYN06Vk2SDY5LHoX8iKTph4olCdXBGdXiA6H_yG68xPs/s320/20230717_194625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fSlgagyXV4T28XjRqu1GNxns0eFMCbMxlBLpU-kIdWueP6N9_3qlhda92GZUKjGIA-vr5B0VJ9P3Ax6Wn6f5ACLuOuuUIawMk2XdKx8eZxHpmNfeMPSVFmTLWlxk3bRb6ONhBifuAmO_IdkWQJs-Jsr3qFrSyWiK0fZHrRy4GMA94GxcIqlYaWs1EPE/s1209/20230717_194655.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3fSlgagyXV4T28XjRqu1GNxns0eFMCbMxlBLpU-kIdWueP6N9_3qlhda92GZUKjGIA-vr5B0VJ9P3Ax6Wn6f5ACLuOuuUIawMk2XdKx8eZxHpmNfeMPSVFmTLWlxk3bRb6ONhBifuAmO_IdkWQJs-Jsr3qFrSyWiK0fZHrRy4GMA94GxcIqlYaWs1EPE/s320/20230717_194655.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4G_Wc152F3SlYOzJOMjau4nFq0hsg2-HeCm5n1OzasDHG5ufKH-VExrmEqJpNhs8GBpE_eYbsDSC-5MxekDs95OhIq3MG0HEf_UwdOl4e-TeAk4qHvC7wal2SrelOD3-RmDIY-uLhv6zJn6lIKE6Z59_QMAS4Fsy4XaCSzEzlbvbt8aCzKvG41AoI2Vw/s1209/20230717_194703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4G_Wc152F3SlYOzJOMjau4nFq0hsg2-HeCm5n1OzasDHG5ufKH-VExrmEqJpNhs8GBpE_eYbsDSC-5MxekDs95OhIq3MG0HEf_UwdOl4e-TeAk4qHvC7wal2SrelOD3-RmDIY-uLhv6zJn6lIKE6Z59_QMAS4Fsy4XaCSzEzlbvbt8aCzKvG41AoI2Vw/s320/20230717_194703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqZ5hi3zQUB3muhThZsFnlo05C8tsb4kJf_F71sMD_k3cuuP8CANbogSHVhGcYVpnePcMvl8vwxjYJwT46pX1aReP-qfEZUNmmJatW8kpiXIWbiOkxYV7wqI1ahoYnNnawbHSDDPqqcAURfCpWcQfa_misYSu2K5v58GhbjIef425JQJ1LySPZ29qc5Xc/s1210/20230717_195642.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqZ5hi3zQUB3muhThZsFnlo05C8tsb4kJf_F71sMD_k3cuuP8CANbogSHVhGcYVpnePcMvl8vwxjYJwT46pX1aReP-qfEZUNmmJatW8kpiXIWbiOkxYV7wqI1ahoYnNnawbHSDDPqqcAURfCpWcQfa_misYSu2K5v58GhbjIef425JQJ1LySPZ29qc5Xc/s320/20230717_195642.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">succo d'anans</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrUxsdStlrphagxLNGdqBhVwOSMKLaCxz6HS9bK11eA6dhi4mamOxTpPhQpy81DR8vkry372pTyU0TgKy2WAX2FSc30MuocyKLN3UKs5cb4GUHL5NrHCxMm72g8iWY6Y8QzhFrDZ-MZsXAtILN6hVMf6J1EhVP3b3ZEInfaqAdOHTtzruZmGKRh2Qerl0/s1209/20230717_200412.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrUxsdStlrphagxLNGdqBhVwOSMKLaCxz6HS9bK11eA6dhi4mamOxTpPhQpy81DR8vkry372pTyU0TgKy2WAX2FSc30MuocyKLN3UKs5cb4GUHL5NrHCxMm72g8iWY6Y8QzhFrDZ-MZsXAtILN6hVMf6J1EhVP3b3ZEInfaqAdOHTtzruZmGKRh2Qerl0/s320/20230717_200412.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">polletto fritto, riso e insalata per Gigi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgJLzuf8rftUvUJpn5L1w3sW4V8EhKmDpp1CY9evgp5OmKlUOnQxQik8lBo1yVI2XIzZu_C8onirCw0jpbQGctvGqMbo1p7tFb7Wa50eshVDMle9eXaynAF5BzJ4CwX7m0JA2NLyjKiZS6oUjDbswUiK9ilkGgl05JLXQmRVYewhU4PHcn0ALFM6hKASk/s1209/20230717_200650.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgJLzuf8rftUvUJpn5L1w3sW4V8EhKmDpp1CY9evgp5OmKlUOnQxQik8lBo1yVI2XIzZu_C8onirCw0jpbQGctvGqMbo1p7tFb7Wa50eshVDMle9eXaynAF5BzJ4CwX7m0JA2NLyjKiZS6oUjDbswUiK9ilkGgl05JLXQmRVYewhU4PHcn0ALFM6hKASk/s320/20230717_200650.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">verdure al curry e riso per me</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi stamattina ha tirato l'ennesima craniata contro cose (qui è tutto basso, per lui, e continua a farsi male e picchiar la zucca). Solo che a sto giro, oltre all'evidente scottatura (come me in viso: fa freddo ma il sole ustiona!), si è tagliato sulla melonera e l'escoriazione, pur superficiale, è infetta e purulenta. Mi dice solo adesso che il colpo l'ha preso su una barra di metallo sospesa sopra al bagno pubblico della chiesa dei chamula, che non solo è lurido, ma è anche incrostato di maledizioni contro i bianchi che escono insieme ai rutti indotti dalla Coca. Quindi dobbiamo andare in farmacia. La dottoressa, inizialmente, non capisce. Allora tolgo il berretto a Gigi e lei rimane sconvolta, e ci consiglia una consulta medica, che oggi son gratuite. Quante scene! Già Gigi si impressiona facilmente, così poi, signora mia, lei non collabora e mi rende difficile la logistica! Riusciamo a farci dare un disinfettante spray e via, questione risolta. </div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Domattina sveglia all'alba: abbiamo 20km di salita, prima dei 50 di discesa che ci porteranno a Chiapa de Corzo, e dobbiamo arrivare preso se vogliamo esplorare il Canyon!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">18/7</div><div style="text-align: justify;">San Cristobal de Las Casas - Chiapa de Corzo</div><div style="text-align: justify;">72km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il Chiapas continua a lasciarmi senza parole e senza fiato per la grandiosa, incredibile, meravigliosa varietà e densità di esperienze e orizzonti che offre. Ogni giorno è una vita intera, un passaggio tra mondi, una approdo a universi lontani lambiti dal medesimo fiume, che è tempo ed è strada, è movimento di ruote, giro dei pedali e del sangue.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La tappa di oggi è stata benedetta da tutte le divinità preispaniche e cristiane, dal sangiovanni dei chamula e da chac serpente celeste che governa i venti.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Partiamo presto, con una sveglia che mi strappa al sonno dopo poche ore. Facciamo tutto in silenzio, per non disturbare gli altri ospiti. Usciamo nella città ancora addormentata, che era il nostro obiettivo, per evitare il traffico devastante che viene a crearsi poi durante il giorno. L'aria è fresca, anzi, fredda! Ci saranno 7 o 8 gradi, e ci copriamo con abiti pesanti che sembravano inutili fino a pochi giorni fa. Ciao SanCris, sei stata un dono prezioso!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-c1EqNrRRKMIP1-X5A9tqn3r1LjuYpUULQ_GLqhCk5vzRrWFDBazpGyxCoVXxbibuFVWMhckVGAidhUjTIvXMHbCPBc4uBNkGqobGKl-aSK0AX509CsXmHfOn9JVNJBo-76AvmNe1oMokEEqMdRttWXVkGspVWKpJhfc5Heu3IWANRXOxQpFQIJWYHo0/s1209/20230718_072755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-c1EqNrRRKMIP1-X5A9tqn3r1LjuYpUULQ_GLqhCk5vzRrWFDBazpGyxCoVXxbibuFVWMhckVGAidhUjTIvXMHbCPBc4uBNkGqobGKl-aSK0AX509CsXmHfOn9JVNJBo-76AvmNe1oMokEEqMdRttWXVkGspVWKpJhfc5Heu3IWANRXOxQpFQIJWYHo0/s320/20230718_072755.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Appena fuori dal centro la strada inizia ad arrampicarsi sulle colline intorno, che in realtà sono montagne di tutto rispetto, ma partendo già da 2200m sembrano meno imponenti. Arriveremo oggi a sfiorare i 2600m di quota, prima di ridiscendere quasi in piano. La salita non è mai ripida e le pendenze restano sempre più che tranquille. La strada è stretta ma passano pochissime auto e il fondo è buono. Saliamo, nel silenzio interrotto solo dal canto degli uccelli, mentre le abitazioni si fanno via via più rare e spartane.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3efb3mNXuEFlHEWC3SjWwAcpqZeTUss5gVIEHkDibGXt7kI2sHDvv_mTIKRU-VVEpetwdf1SQrkMNRaop8e2Z_iVG5U_-D7utiS9oLcncWM9VVzxuAmh4CkS93bc7cq219HUQj18P2bU6UyeqJ0VTDDeNOY3aPJnyJiVooSw34afg3ROqnVLh385G-I/s1209/20230718_074828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3efb3mNXuEFlHEWC3SjWwAcpqZeTUss5gVIEHkDibGXt7kI2sHDvv_mTIKRU-VVEpetwdf1SQrkMNRaop8e2Z_iVG5U_-D7utiS9oLcncWM9VVzxuAmh4CkS93bc7cq219HUQj18P2bU6UyeqJ0VTDDeNOY3aPJnyJiVooSw34afg3ROqnVLh385G-I/s320/20230718_074828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEOyhQ67A6jBeMLUOb7CwdyaiiIJZOADA1VwdiNt4lTApNoPxfhDttgOh9741QNW4eQw9Nb4Ht-mAwuJqtqPSfUkOBYq7sOWF6-9icT3gGbAK7kYUQTujP3x-a9i-STj61dPDFBfPyE2zaACJ1fGI_5pS6pfOGLQam15l9sk3aeuSdqPLW0KZq-0KMpY/s1209/20230718_074926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEOyhQ67A6jBeMLUOb7CwdyaiiIJZOADA1VwdiNt4lTApNoPxfhDttgOh9741QNW4eQw9Nb4Ht-mAwuJqtqPSfUkOBYq7sOWF6-9icT3gGbAK7kYUQTujP3x-a9i-STj61dPDFBfPyE2zaACJ1fGI_5pS6pfOGLQam15l9sk3aeuSdqPLW0KZq-0KMpY/s320/20230718_074926.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJHrdvqbWDzamSbm5OcKFpKy8YmuJiRdo88693XcTgVpw6AYGugiewLOn81d-cGbskEsu_M6KCt4jFFFEURgv91aGxkHHeqXNOG5mbjTpZ0e99TYwPrzF9yEUUWlIjQDJ_ODvQY_PfIdhqkx-woJemjTeyStwOoCAXnkqJL95Ejp7_m-D11C5_4G_PTY/s1209/20230718_075419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJHrdvqbWDzamSbm5OcKFpKy8YmuJiRdo88693XcTgVpw6AYGugiewLOn81d-cGbskEsu_M6KCt4jFFFEURgv91aGxkHHeqXNOG5mbjTpZ0e99TYwPrzF9yEUUWlIjQDJ_ODvQY_PfIdhqkx-woJemjTeyStwOoCAXnkqJL95Ejp7_m-D11C5_4G_PTY/s320/20230718_075419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0PNcsxE3Hq-vwFpPyoUEH6hwIQuUNTHQCAV9HMfCgo0S3lRgedn01Vo4_rw7xg7xGy3QVOYpQdAXhb1Sc2tJaK79RKqU0t126qpyFY0dOKKuFP_OfsM8i0IZ04KysQrznsrFOWlG4fGRxc3m9kXpe6mkT5ZNCsJExdrWCL3JIUISRUkNx9EhaCbPdLk/s1209/20230718_075458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0PNcsxE3Hq-vwFpPyoUEH6hwIQuUNTHQCAV9HMfCgo0S3lRgedn01Vo4_rw7xg7xGy3QVOYpQdAXhb1Sc2tJaK79RKqU0t126qpyFY0dOKKuFP_OfsM8i0IZ04KysQrznsrFOWlG4fGRxc3m9kXpe6mkT5ZNCsJExdrWCL3JIUISRUkNx9EhaCbPdLk/s320/20230718_075458.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEincOTzu14Rh9UzqVGk8iuWhXBxFVQLuyfrSSOkDZtD5xzbzrlirWtx-Bka2w0ccKNfqsUKI8O-Hdfum_dbGzCRZm5zftvJKiopcuDB2VwstlTEbjIVTQoag-jjKquPzSXUR3BswsFb2t_FCysv-i7mggcp87BvWGv7rtOz3PUM47yz7aCHI75IWpK3U5E/s1209/20230718_075922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEincOTzu14Rh9UzqVGk8iuWhXBxFVQLuyfrSSOkDZtD5xzbzrlirWtx-Bka2w0ccKNfqsUKI8O-Hdfum_dbGzCRZm5zftvJKiopcuDB2VwstlTEbjIVTQoag-jjKquPzSXUR3BswsFb2t_FCysv-i7mggcp87BvWGv7rtOz3PUM47yz7aCHI75IWpK3U5E/s320/20230718_075922.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"ho tante noci di cocco grandi, grosse, anche più grandi di te!"</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGvrCjRKk_tOTuVvQ27palHQUkOsMEKxN6puOkKVvYjYXyqtEegPqJ6l1_mNcKgpvSN65wQXmpZ3CUdoP58iHon5BEEckIOjYdEFQZ-nXrlUbSaWB1lnut61eAOQYb7XjmbHRPrnnr8ry1N-6IFAfCF4Q_nN1YrExgffZHHBsJPfLCVpbls9DLSxnpqTs/s1209/20230718_080047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGvrCjRKk_tOTuVvQ27palHQUkOsMEKxN6puOkKVvYjYXyqtEegPqJ6l1_mNcKgpvSN65wQXmpZ3CUdoP58iHon5BEEckIOjYdEFQZ-nXrlUbSaWB1lnut61eAOQYb7XjmbHRPrnnr8ry1N-6IFAfCF4Q_nN1YrExgffZHHBsJPfLCVpbls9DLSxnpqTs/s320/20230718_080047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVmaXyD0F6zF2OPAI7jvcCwytwl3QZzBJbPZI864RHtv68HTzOS5BKF2H0Ovp0dr8ddfbHSsszpPwz57S9J1ZXXTisro47Rc4gmMM6_IwfqBqJasir1BaKH1Ie2LyyB6lguna8FMSgiK8TXlYSauocdO7auGQEOIdsRmsn_KEU8koWuGk5xaoecvqmnQ/s1209/20230718_080336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlVmaXyD0F6zF2OPAI7jvcCwytwl3QZzBJbPZI864RHtv68HTzOS5BKF2H0Ovp0dr8ddfbHSsszpPwz57S9J1ZXXTisro47Rc4gmMM6_IwfqBqJasir1BaKH1Ie2LyyB6lguna8FMSgiK8TXlYSauocdO7auGQEOIdsRmsn_KEU8koWuGk5xaoecvqmnQ/s320/20230718_080336.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY-VXAYAWzaD4YBLP-qqnhWAjOCzpULf-TeVu_AFsUybvT-g0K98_d4X4DQqVVmzUXLcckmhceO7qBwYWHljGZXL8PWIb9qBspzWvFETslr20jgyb18ZykbVEhwUVWXaTmM5Fepihds0-YNJSgjAfvy-bVZmCzd1xtzcyzLllhSedbd8alpMKKXwcuW-Y/s1209/20230718_080648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY-VXAYAWzaD4YBLP-qqnhWAjOCzpULf-TeVu_AFsUybvT-g0K98_d4X4DQqVVmzUXLcckmhceO7qBwYWHljGZXL8PWIb9qBspzWvFETslr20jgyb18ZykbVEhwUVWXaTmM5Fepihds0-YNJSgjAfvy-bVZmCzd1xtzcyzLllhSedbd8alpMKKXwcuW-Y/s320/20230718_080648.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_tQxIOFDa7BgH7hveKyc_tvhToZBbHDJVr7bu-EskGMqY32F_Of3syzax6dfarl1zNhT0esJIw0wRpcn5I4yzTdOK7jevZ5U06I6UbWq5-5WDt-Y5LiaZbHS3fb8spkmIWj8DpbkOxvUaUPhCwnr_OKeNfyEYLof449Oo2jYwiXLT5IBrC2SnKZI3JQI/s1209/20230718_080651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_tQxIOFDa7BgH7hveKyc_tvhToZBbHDJVr7bu-EskGMqY32F_Of3syzax6dfarl1zNhT0esJIw0wRpcn5I4yzTdOK7jevZ5U06I6UbWq5-5WDt-Y5LiaZbHS3fb8spkmIWj8DpbkOxvUaUPhCwnr_OKeNfyEYLof449Oo2jYwiXLT5IBrC2SnKZI3JQI/s320/20230718_080651.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">A un certo punto le case spariscono quasi del tutto, e lasciano il posto a cupe pinete che fremono al vento e spartani chioschetti, ancora chiusi. Le poche zone abitate sono segnalate da minuscoli campi di mais quasi verticali, scoscesi sulle pareti della montagna. Ogni metro è sfruttato, là dove necessario.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQTmJwSBReOMAmKubOlTtkBizvsBPj29oBRt8psX4KCTcc7alcl4f76rAUrsDaVHFHbmWa6oFJc_G0479XYNR1DoGT6LDFQ9pmMHZXt-ZaszcRnbR4uyW6cmDnxrAREQylcewWFx6Mp2uhuMStDqMmrcH7zuT2CCxrQxEXp2eiEa2TXPfn3exDcz4iXQ/s1209/20230718_080654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQTmJwSBReOMAmKubOlTtkBizvsBPj29oBRt8psX4KCTcc7alcl4f76rAUrsDaVHFHbmWa6oFJc_G0479XYNR1DoGT6LDFQ9pmMHZXt-ZaszcRnbR4uyW6cmDnxrAREQylcewWFx6Mp2uhuMStDqMmrcH7zuT2CCxrQxEXp2eiEa2TXPfn3exDcz4iXQ/s320/20230718_080654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnxeOI4DjpRzDGQ2kMGjrnx_a9Q8ItoZ5XzN9bX6Rzi4_i25MAesSshuR1D-quv5p6QGe5opyi71V-FM7bfn458ZFKBRcpNRZl-QL97p9plahTpRRz0KV6tnIwD7umL-nSnZtwSIPfSApurerpmlyucF9Zu9ZbxrxPcvUuygPLtnTZLmLVSVNo_IbOkIY/s1209/20230718_081814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnxeOI4DjpRzDGQ2kMGjrnx_a9Q8ItoZ5XzN9bX6Rzi4_i25MAesSshuR1D-quv5p6QGe5opyi71V-FM7bfn458ZFKBRcpNRZl-QL97p9plahTpRRz0KV6tnIwD7umL-nSnZtwSIPfSApurerpmlyucF9Zu9ZbxrxPcvUuygPLtnTZLmLVSVNo_IbOkIY/s320/20230718_081814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQN9NuUYXK8TQHzihnCb3pKXMILK230I3pTTbj13eyqgWm-NHLJjEVBGfQqooR3rHRjzN7NERsXKEe4KjSZF-aPo0_T6irKAi-rYswjm01ZdrHMr0Oj-mnJ00c6GrLa99PBW0zoiXQk1vCpgoZUn2mEZ66vJ7MSVNvQYmtgFQHHRISbEKMitYfpr79FA/s1209/20230718_081818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQN9NuUYXK8TQHzihnCb3pKXMILK230I3pTTbj13eyqgWm-NHLJjEVBGfQqooR3rHRjzN7NERsXKEe4KjSZF-aPo0_T6irKAi-rYswjm01ZdrHMr0Oj-mnJ00c6GrLa99PBW0zoiXQk1vCpgoZUn2mEZ66vJ7MSVNvQYmtgFQHHRISbEKMitYfpr79FA/s320/20230718_081818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisexRF7Og-fkba-UNMQOFYRy-Nd2HXU9nDnS-dEb0lcfY66aI0r84aVzFgL441xiD8B6Sp1aUcATKWfTEjpqzfA4FW_sNHqo82DCSAgrFYtICjW0QjgQhXmimrCpfjgyXQASmJMjKBO4NDaGlUofhiMBQVruqrVoNJgD30Jft3UKBvlQxBc-9LgTyRpZs/s1209/20230718_082752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisexRF7Og-fkba-UNMQOFYRy-Nd2HXU9nDnS-dEb0lcfY66aI0r84aVzFgL441xiD8B6Sp1aUcATKWfTEjpqzfA4FW_sNHqo82DCSAgrFYtICjW0QjgQhXmimrCpfjgyXQASmJMjKBO4NDaGlUofhiMBQVruqrVoNJgD30Jft3UKBvlQxBc-9LgTyRpZs/s320/20230718_082752.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo un primo tratto di salita si scollina e si scende nel vallone dove sorge Nachig, una cittadina vivace incastonata tra i monti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQDPzao5L5-aswIEcnbWT8yg5uqiOC7W942uPP5aW7NwapG7bxJ4TTwJTIewDHBeUzv93tzQ1fPPfbmgFYiy5x37NORsSycYi1XxVOUfy8NJawMKgN8eViXlOiKRGsTzBf0zlfRI6ClqJ3YGHLxm-B617L26cBGz7mU6umT-1IPIGyGGmBeKk-aBBbUdc/s1209/20230718_083205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQDPzao5L5-aswIEcnbWT8yg5uqiOC7W942uPP5aW7NwapG7bxJ4TTwJTIewDHBeUzv93tzQ1fPPfbmgFYiy5x37NORsSycYi1XxVOUfy8NJawMKgN8eViXlOiKRGsTzBf0zlfRI6ClqJ3YGHLxm-B617L26cBGz7mU6umT-1IPIGyGGmBeKk-aBBbUdc/s320/20230718_083205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcCuZL-M3pAZhOpT1a3wiHhuUwj2t3QhH1mMgU4zYKXuXVWtOr52rld9DhiUyv9zbJm-8OulUa7ODHEsSg4QFxtkdeLBhlBe2bbyZOIlTDHG1TfULFRJ-8P2Y24QSKFLkfo17gTLwQWCffMGfbPimx5tDPVN88NkTCHx8ahBVbD1QuVRrOYVFE0VNQU40/s1209/20230718_083632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcCuZL-M3pAZhOpT1a3wiHhuUwj2t3QhH1mMgU4zYKXuXVWtOr52rld9DhiUyv9zbJm-8OulUa7ODHEsSg4QFxtkdeLBhlBe2bbyZOIlTDHG1TfULFRJ-8P2Y24QSKFLkfo17gTLwQWCffMGfbPimx5tDPVN88NkTCHx8ahBVbD1QuVRrOYVFE0VNQU40/s320/20230718_083632.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjeok67zdD9FmF9Af4ksjhBo-5XUGHE2v8PeDT-Cz9zdmrGDhp_wimec8n3xCIOxI0G52TXfY_u_onLwtTImfSvxYeiEVKK8BHtLsC7VzoYoXFB_dZLP_foxiyRJ-onRMLqYwiMTBE2N9EREhTxRcYkKr2ObpvuzzVYpCiWIyaVKZ8SYFc_IZohRE-4I/s1209/20230718_083809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjeok67zdD9FmF9Af4ksjhBo-5XUGHE2v8PeDT-Cz9zdmrGDhp_wimec8n3xCIOxI0G52TXfY_u_onLwtTImfSvxYeiEVKK8BHtLsC7VzoYoXFB_dZLP_foxiyRJ-onRMLqYwiMTBE2N9EREhTxRcYkKr2ObpvuzzVYpCiWIyaVKZ8SYFc_IZohRE-4I/s320/20230718_083809.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Inevitabilmente, dopo questa prima inebriante discesina e il passaggio nel centro abitato, si torna a salire, ma senza strappi. Ancora le pendenze restano dolci e si pedala tra assonnati cani stesi al sole e bimbi curiosi che ci salutano, mentre le madri, impegnate a ricamare o di ritorno dalla spesa, sempre in abiti tradizionali tzotzil, li tengono d'occhio. Appena si scollina di nuovo tutta la vallata si abbraccia in un colpo d'occhio nella luce argentea del mattino, che si riflette sulle foglie, come fossero acqua, e sulle numerose serre di coltivazione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbDwWjHgUlOqw2q2RuxQctfaQGYxxUbzHpvnC7J1gcILjXvQ5514z0cjRMqDVyI4lLabO9ykmrdkUI2iaMB7P__9Oz1sakH63m68Z4WqRCduIJPXAElvNhETqViAjDVx4fxQtPXL6_99SSqAO9Nsc3nR7kVlxpldSLIG-7WVW9fZeOrDKHo4YXkh8wpQ4/s1209/20230718_085019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbDwWjHgUlOqw2q2RuxQctfaQGYxxUbzHpvnC7J1gcILjXvQ5514z0cjRMqDVyI4lLabO9ykmrdkUI2iaMB7P__9Oz1sakH63m68Z4WqRCduIJPXAElvNhETqViAjDVx4fxQtPXL6_99SSqAO9Nsc3nR7kVlxpldSLIG-7WVW9fZeOrDKHo4YXkh8wpQ4/s320/20230718_085019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3B3wkmQplUGlZ9S3QIjpDUToy4acb-DiIcKIuQ1B9bJ_fMqXgOWdAvdXvMHMqzBJgZDiG-IknNgNvz8eKrOIq7gkgqehdE4Vn_y1YUIkyN4t79sdR_qMYxYPinCuUsmtoqC8xCe2DYhZhy0K4oAk5JrUF_l-e_DIx_8jY4-kENoiYI4JH5VDBM2qykK0/s1209/20230718_085025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3B3wkmQplUGlZ9S3QIjpDUToy4acb-DiIcKIuQ1B9bJ_fMqXgOWdAvdXvMHMqzBJgZDiG-IknNgNvz8eKrOIq7gkgqehdE4Vn_y1YUIkyN4t79sdR_qMYxYPinCuUsmtoqC8xCe2DYhZhy0K4oAk5JrUF_l-e_DIx_8jY4-kENoiYI4JH5VDBM2qykK0/s320/20230718_085025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KeNErJFb2xobOP2cB9XxU2XXw5lZxto-1JeKc11zIuOS5q8P6Uv0cWeVHOOqSHftf2T73LD5j3nGIqM8nNQQ5iViLtcM7ZRBkR-8lsy3Sx893OTVpIM4ReqfXj7jfb2HYsT-wJhC-YHoGN1gkvZA8RPPyjcqkg9eJHEx7Rs1LXjnNSJ_RzLw8SBHcME/s1209/20230718_085617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KeNErJFb2xobOP2cB9XxU2XXw5lZxto-1JeKc11zIuOS5q8P6Uv0cWeVHOOqSHftf2T73LD5j3nGIqM8nNQQ5iViLtcM7ZRBkR-8lsy3Sx893OTVpIM4ReqfXj7jfb2HYsT-wJhC-YHoGN1gkvZA8RPPyjcqkg9eJHEx7Rs1LXjnNSJ_RzLw8SBHcME/s320/20230718_085617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih032h9OGI6z0AxA883mQl6XLVyDU7mhJrmpx-k1UybNBKGz4CefQqLzbtviaf3uhJt_4Fu4QG8zgkeDJYJmJGTgL76x4hvUs4m7hznE0DngiIK7MWjKbsGnST8qomNzC1FnfM1b7ZGLMmRnXLW2ekdU9UEKj6FsziRwSZsyGsEHc6Lp-f_bl_NdkIwWQ/s1209/20230718_085716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih032h9OGI6z0AxA883mQl6XLVyDU7mhJrmpx-k1UybNBKGz4CefQqLzbtviaf3uhJt_4Fu4QG8zgkeDJYJmJGTgL76x4hvUs4m7hznE0DngiIK7MWjKbsGnST8qomNzC1FnfM1b7ZGLMmRnXLW2ekdU9UEKj6FsziRwSZsyGsEHc6Lp-f_bl_NdkIwWQ/s320/20230718_085716.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Se fin qui è stato bello, ora inizia il fantastico. Dopo 20km di salita ce ne aspettano 50 di discesa, quasi ininterrotti. Anche in questo caso le pendenze restano docili, cosa che permette di scendere senza la tensione del freno tirato o dell'eccessiva velocità. Da dire non c'è molto, le immagini parlano da sole. Le montagne, selvagge, coperte di vello di linfa e resina, diventano pian piano colline. I campi di mais anticipano i pueblos, che sono fatti di assi di legno inchiodate e cemento, fumo di pannocchie bollite e pollo alla brace. La tavolozza, che nella corsa della discesa si impasta e amalgama, comprende tutte le tonalità del verde e dell'azzurro, sbuffi di nuvole e specchi d'acqua, rosso di roccia e di terra antica.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65BfWfT9b9jiiBfRZ-xap2xsydMwz_elQ6sCdVuZPPP89tSdsv3eqZEqTPZ679mahlaYHvAVT8WnjnPAUkuMe-P4aMYjUCwijO9I49L1Ph4zyPru_4jQWhB8s2v_w0qZXv1UJYDdsr8dsINKQ16UP0-xtjldOoOS3sWSj6Ew9mJMMaTtDpTxziQOtPqg/s1209/20230718_085923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65BfWfT9b9jiiBfRZ-xap2xsydMwz_elQ6sCdVuZPPP89tSdsv3eqZEqTPZ679mahlaYHvAVT8WnjnPAUkuMe-P4aMYjUCwijO9I49L1Ph4zyPru_4jQWhB8s2v_w0qZXv1UJYDdsr8dsINKQ16UP0-xtjldOoOS3sWSj6Ew9mJMMaTtDpTxziQOtPqg/s320/20230718_085923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">In questa ubriachezza di vento e velocità, ombre di valloni a perdita d'occhio e sagome di vette della Sierra Madre, che, in quanto tale, osserva sorniona e tace, lasciandoci giocare alla "conquista dell'inutile", passiamo talora qualche pueblo in cui è giorno di mercato. Qui tutto si fa colorato, sgargiante, rumoroso di musica, chiacchiere e megafoni degli ambulanti che sponsorizzano i loro tamales o le loro micheladas (che sono cocktail di birra, succo di lime, spezie, salse, peperoncino, succo di pomodoro e tanto ammore). Qui c'è da stare attenti alla guida spericolata dei mototaxi e ai trabiccoli, a pedali o a motore, stracarichi di gente, merce, animali o tutte e tre le cose insieme.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtk2Zv-c_KEAKWVM4SAmCsdEK8PCfqRH-JznOo-KASpflGn7Qqbxu-N1tYdO9Z7dU45l3A0kqgkjYrOgsQUE7Zv9JVry39kydrJQVZFuDn1m7l2MGVXckP78kgD30bYkyPPHO4lcfKZnbA07BrYPL4ink6vsfKKQT8tRDCo9xV10AF4KuMR2mciMpo8iM/s1209/20230718_095421(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtk2Zv-c_KEAKWVM4SAmCsdEK8PCfqRH-JznOo-KASpflGn7Qqbxu-N1tYdO9Z7dU45l3A0kqgkjYrOgsQUE7Zv9JVry39kydrJQVZFuDn1m7l2MGVXckP78kgD30bYkyPPHO4lcfKZnbA07BrYPL4ink6vsfKKQT8tRDCo9xV10AF4KuMR2mciMpo8iM/s320/20230718_095421(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjlPdnD1D0V3kkqVxAMlyN21-pkq8V-wzTPfAzEmUbsW_Wa5zU7kwWGYmnmS1QMOMULb_e2oVBS0v5sUBfPKa5agkxB5w-0J3IwsCOgT7zg2Q2t8okDgFWsuG5jlRJgnYgWy1lFB2lbNKYaQOpnaXwDHH4pLrzKBeMPsMx4_Q85NjOkDZuUKc_DQlSUs/s1209/20230718_095439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjlPdnD1D0V3kkqVxAMlyN21-pkq8V-wzTPfAzEmUbsW_Wa5zU7kwWGYmnmS1QMOMULb_e2oVBS0v5sUBfPKa5agkxB5w-0J3IwsCOgT7zg2Q2t8okDgFWsuG5jlRJgnYgWy1lFB2lbNKYaQOpnaXwDHH4pLrzKBeMPsMx4_Q85NjOkDZuUKc_DQlSUs/s320/20230718_095439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixhOGCHFp51T3yaHS5bZu70yqEeD94bqvE7bS9ukfqaNJiLZevgt2ZM0fIT1LyH316tRqB1r3xSLSroiyEnSiJJrtrwN60c_EoZjipFy9XZuPTB_rvyx4r2AdkuZ2d_yIOtiP8Kdf6sq43Kf2ulugahMhz1-QOEtMFcvuGlZzVXKKt_j_SZJoaZaJ1lA0/s1209/20230718_095446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixhOGCHFp51T3yaHS5bZu70yqEeD94bqvE7bS9ukfqaNJiLZevgt2ZM0fIT1LyH316tRqB1r3xSLSroiyEnSiJJrtrwN60c_EoZjipFy9XZuPTB_rvyx4r2AdkuZ2d_yIOtiP8Kdf6sq43Kf2ulugahMhz1-QOEtMFcvuGlZzVXKKt_j_SZJoaZaJ1lA0/s320/20230718_095446.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver perso quota ci troviamo in un paesaggio collinare selvaggio di incredibile bellezza, dove i rari campi coltivati si intrecciano a pietraie chiarissime e pratoni, punteggiati di alberi e interrotti da chiazze di terra rossa. Sulla strada si proiettano le ombre dei condor, o avvoltoi, neri, tozzi e con la testa pelata e rossa, che volano a larghi cerchi sopra di noi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZM0zpcXGs9pf3ciFeeJY5GPMEPq66H-7CZMBmlb13VSxEN-h508mNSs8SkaPT9udXqKtFEHDTdSDUp5bbzBdiaesciEkzLX1dvOtvyZrE4Vc7d1C_mOIJcrDz8-piQ5-KUkqPLLhQSFetoV5E6vib05CJgNRs-CEJVuIF52feD-kw5HSbjY_5-aSGp4/s1209/20230718_100536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZM0zpcXGs9pf3ciFeeJY5GPMEPq66H-7CZMBmlb13VSxEN-h508mNSs8SkaPT9udXqKtFEHDTdSDUp5bbzBdiaesciEkzLX1dvOtvyZrE4Vc7d1C_mOIJcrDz8-piQ5-KUkqPLLhQSFetoV5E6vib05CJgNRs-CEJVuIF52feD-kw5HSbjY_5-aSGp4/s320/20230718_100536.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOT7pLDFrrq9MOVrURTM_qzs6PoZmxB01jE75RVKjQhcDQNRljsI7WLe8Hl4KtFo64jMGFjvubcv00XEtH9jYiIPzP5saLwSaA2WmYfBOL8NnLEsycdZZj_9oZ4BKgOtjTwxykAP9JNR8OskJ4frvJAKEN1ht6iAZXZOs4MBpbarWczWm8suhVVTpVquk/s1209/20230718_100614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOT7pLDFrrq9MOVrURTM_qzs6PoZmxB01jE75RVKjQhcDQNRljsI7WLe8Hl4KtFo64jMGFjvubcv00XEtH9jYiIPzP5saLwSaA2WmYfBOL8NnLEsycdZZj_9oZ4BKgOtjTwxykAP9JNR8OskJ4frvJAKEN1ht6iAZXZOs4MBpbarWczWm8suhVVTpVquk/s320/20230718_100614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4m_x2AfVlsNPmiShiNjcyF_vF9ACkB7d_S7uMdk1_COO0oS2GenOITQMW5lz9DWGMGjgpCKEbIU1VNYUhkG-2MdtcFBQ6g_Fu0VFu16eOoXRcwyVkww2D-yOGO-RaSkiV_RuI3BmrbT2cCuNFsZ4pcXgKXHFSSq6OxMx1PVts7ApnjEsTQcn4hAA7dsE/s1209/20230718_100633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4m_x2AfVlsNPmiShiNjcyF_vF9ACkB7d_S7uMdk1_COO0oS2GenOITQMW5lz9DWGMGjgpCKEbIU1VNYUhkG-2MdtcFBQ6g_Fu0VFu16eOoXRcwyVkww2D-yOGO-RaSkiV_RuI3BmrbT2cCuNFsZ4pcXgKXHFSSq6OxMx1PVts7ApnjEsTQcn4hAA7dsE/s320/20230718_100633.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX8QpBQuotsblN0Wv3Oy4PQkCKcYvTygAOAf9OgjW688YZSh-KDsw-gG5r_aSloNTHA3H2zEaIhDb0RupJn3AT0tZq304zNkBDMQUFsDLfI-KBvyMwXCQmmJCqcD7f5P5HKHVELacJ-kSz5eBe-RvIk1Vv6kuq_be1KDPR6YIYH0yGh6bC8f9kFb4zDSE/s979/20230718_100646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX8QpBQuotsblN0Wv3Oy4PQkCKcYvTygAOAf9OgjW688YZSh-KDsw-gG5r_aSloNTHA3H2zEaIhDb0RupJn3AT0tZq304zNkBDMQUFsDLfI-KBvyMwXCQmmJCqcD7f5P5HKHVELacJ-kSz5eBe-RvIk1Vv6kuq_be1KDPR6YIYH0yGh6bC8f9kFb4zDSE/s320/20230718_100646.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IVEVumBhAJZevkcGNJJXBPG5_M0T6OCzOGr803QtQEUQvpzyH_0aTRMItUabefp3dilwv55leXocVWvF7U23aveFeIcgR56Yu-AwDTZvyVxUPWKNmTo74odNyY2sMqCvdglZBtCfk-PuLqH3kgaiDtLDpkGoWpHHSyAon_r6kCaM-wwXP58f4uBGvyY/s1209/20230718_100938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IVEVumBhAJZevkcGNJJXBPG5_M0T6OCzOGr803QtQEUQvpzyH_0aTRMItUabefp3dilwv55leXocVWvF7U23aveFeIcgR56Yu-AwDTZvyVxUPWKNmTo74odNyY2sMqCvdglZBtCfk-PuLqH3kgaiDtLDpkGoWpHHSyAon_r6kCaM-wwXP58f4uBGvyY/s320/20230718_100938.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJZz4PKQdfpMfi1a_x2NHmuQ8PMaF0pYQuXsUEENirkvdQJKEpPNUsf95mTlnMVPowFYRrSw0ELdBmfAHgx2tO6pg6Jp9tIcdjj1mPp4Ed2A4TeFboHUEngD_CRXgQSDlnNgz6mhqwu2JGBjDrFzjoxAgaLGyqW5xFAoKIHOkvxBVo2FXBSnTW5I3G16Q/s1209/20230718_101324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJZz4PKQdfpMfi1a_x2NHmuQ8PMaF0pYQuXsUEENirkvdQJKEpPNUsf95mTlnMVPowFYRrSw0ELdBmfAHgx2tO6pg6Jp9tIcdjj1mPp4Ed2A4TeFboHUEngD_CRXgQSDlnNgz6mhqwu2JGBjDrFzjoxAgaLGyqW5xFAoKIHOkvxBVo2FXBSnTW5I3G16Q/s320/20230718_101324.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ormai siamo quasi tornati in piano, e la prima cosa che ce lo comunica è la temperatura. Il sole è tornato a scottare e nemmeno la discesa riesce a lenire il calore bruciante. Ci spogliamo in fretta e furia, rimettendo via antivento, berretto e scaldacollo. Serviranno tra una settimana, quando affronteremo i monti dell'Oaxaca (che si pronuncia Uahaca). Ma ora che dalla selva ci dirigiamo alle spiagge candide del Pacifico, proprio no!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT3HxhPjQ0QN7rjV9YfUXdFjrjxaC42ly5dLGdRj17kZxMatpwyVxBI6ksnFwAp0YiWe1m24KMOwJRIeQTSoSfOl__tMwCF-VuhlU5_yFrdO2rzVSEamsnDG-O1l3yv5c8Ln9nWPFrwzzmdgZo1Xr35gcPLcFIwInt8E4ZOemSA62c211zfGLjIFIDTvY/s1209/20230718_110111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT3HxhPjQ0QN7rjV9YfUXdFjrjxaC42ly5dLGdRj17kZxMatpwyVxBI6ksnFwAp0YiWe1m24KMOwJRIeQTSoSfOl__tMwCF-VuhlU5_yFrdO2rzVSEamsnDG-O1l3yv5c8Ln9nWPFrwzzmdgZo1Xr35gcPLcFIwInt8E4ZOemSA62c211zfGLjIFIDTvY/s320/20230718_110111.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3mkZj4WUqfYH2mXdtIahifPnFzFWuQ1BcBkMXkWsiKLwzBKd3FG-JHtQylpOKPMcskjFdI0i2cpuaomIu1zCqqu13wLD8_-SO8q9vf7o_uQ14YYKyOVA5UeYVA1APbwJ1a0fnau38MV3DR9o5hefhgL-lbsc1ie3js-HKC4k6GZ4Gm-RSfXrH3Oi7NDM/s1209/20230718_110846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3mkZj4WUqfYH2mXdtIahifPnFzFWuQ1BcBkMXkWsiKLwzBKd3FG-JHtQylpOKPMcskjFdI0i2cpuaomIu1zCqqu13wLD8_-SO8q9vf7o_uQ14YYKyOVA5UeYVA1APbwJ1a0fnau38MV3DR9o5hefhgL-lbsc1ie3js-HKC4k6GZ4Gm-RSfXrH3Oi7NDM/s320/20230718_110846.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo aver perso più di 2200m di quota, ancora in discesa, raggiungiamo lo svincolo per Chiapa de Corzo, la nostra destinazione di oggi. E' ancora presto, e questo mi fa grande piacere: abbiamo tutto il tempo per lasciare le bici in hotel ed esplorare il Canyon del Sumidero in barca. Chiapa de Corzo, che ha ottenuto il riconoscimento di pueblo magico, si segnala sulla strada con una piramide antica, costruita dalla tribù dei chiapa appunto, buttata in mezzo ad una rotonda, tra la pompa di benzina e lo svincolo di accesso alla città.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZC--4FexLqmACdcn0DEV2t88J3zUSS0VcO2WOpLjiUCbybKSS_lPAXtHGy_f3b2gz4kc7p9vPgvH-5i6i8NlcSrKeXWmjko7HWmAWYuFMkkFPgibHDoxvTD2bUTHPMVHVgj_HmcXy-bC9P5qlCtgvhiZ5_ibJriTvUeG_5hqxhieBYvIJi0vTNjt_HZ8/s1209/20230718_112220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZC--4FexLqmACdcn0DEV2t88J3zUSS0VcO2WOpLjiUCbybKSS_lPAXtHGy_f3b2gz4kc7p9vPgvH-5i6i8NlcSrKeXWmjko7HWmAWYuFMkkFPgibHDoxvTD2bUTHPMVHVgj_HmcXy-bC9P5qlCtgvhiZ5_ibJriTvUeG_5hqxhieBYvIJi0vTNjt_HZ8/s320/20230718_112220.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Superiamo una pletora di ambulantes e baracchini, che significano presenza di turisti, e lasciamo le nostre cose in hotel, dove sono così gentili da darci la camera nonostante sia ancora mattina. Ci cambiamo e, nel giro di un attimo, siamo sul malecon, il lungofiume, in compagnia di un venditore accalappiaclienti. Qui a Chiapa ci sono due imbarcaderi e quatto compagnie di lanchas, che son cooperative e hanno fissato prezzi e offerta identici. Quindi c'è poco da chiedere, mi limito a seguire il nostro omino baffuto fino alla biglietteria. Qui paghiamo la corsa, e il biglietto d'accesso al parco nazionale, e restiamo in attesa di altri clienti perchè la barca parte solo quando è piena. La "sala d'attesa" è un portico tranquillo dove bibite e cibo sono venduti in ogni forma, insieme a collanine, amache e souvenir. Anche qui tantissimi bambini lavorano, percorrendo il lungofiume carichi di cianfrusaglie. Il tempo di una telefonata a casa e si parte, con gli immancabili giubbini salvagente, metti mai che caschi in acqua e proprio in quel momento passa il drillococco.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZ7yTbCD1p64roH5rsDSPHLszuM-b533oAqJPLodvOFFcDy7PJ3wIPeI7b_u_RzJyaQeCYAvLVYuFCYjDIxzpzfX1Z5CN7gfn0YUOn9q-HhZmYWJcziHUHrdOsOJ4z70xtGES9NLKD8HzB6xHjaTft3o8UEnY24Y0WIFCxguBtEju7iZzqs--3ZxqVOM/s1209/20230718_120323.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZ7yTbCD1p64roH5rsDSPHLszuM-b533oAqJPLodvOFFcDy7PJ3wIPeI7b_u_RzJyaQeCYAvLVYuFCYjDIxzpzfX1Z5CN7gfn0YUOn9q-HhZmYWJcziHUHrdOsOJ4z70xtGES9NLKD8HzB6xHjaTft3o8UEnY24Y0WIFCxguBtEju7iZzqs--3ZxqVOM/s320/20230718_120323.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ZEzBBK9C3RDsBNH-GJUnK_Y7JpwhFFMQtWSZ6adIp4RXIc3GWC1huebfSCyI4bzXyWc8VG5PQ7YOsr_O_KwUWLRAEpX7qFV_ai30m8HaJus8365Y62MG_ZJcN273BZfzLyBXC7LlwxfFmoqsmo2cWcCfL3RZXkkEi6I8V7Int8-uETARacXhSgUXTJ0/s1209/20230718_120342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ZEzBBK9C3RDsBNH-GJUnK_Y7JpwhFFMQtWSZ6adIp4RXIc3GWC1huebfSCyI4bzXyWc8VG5PQ7YOsr_O_KwUWLRAEpX7qFV_ai30m8HaJus8365Y62MG_ZJcN273BZfzLyBXC7LlwxfFmoqsmo2cWcCfL3RZXkkEi6I8V7Int8-uETARacXhSgUXTJ0/s320/20230718_120342.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKa02csLc2r8rZ-G7tj_SsB-u3z1wtDxPTZyiSupLiW9k7UqT5zs0NVseKkE1_dvUOcmdNrbDzTiftwzIHm18QcOOubRqCdbiNFXA9iMzTkYqxHNRLdBu54Q2vHFi-YNMHciCIj2aeLO3ja8FDiLKGJK5FqK-pKZN8aRzpVkenGOe8lgJtwae8Ms4u6-A/s1210/20230718_125733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKa02csLc2r8rZ-G7tj_SsB-u3z1wtDxPTZyiSupLiW9k7UqT5zs0NVseKkE1_dvUOcmdNrbDzTiftwzIHm18QcOOubRqCdbiNFXA9iMzTkYqxHNRLdBu54Q2vHFi-YNMHciCIj2aeLO3ja8FDiLKGJK5FqK-pKZN8aRzpVkenGOe8lgJtwae8Ms4u6-A/s320/20230718_125733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5Ahxs7WFLH9-UJ5pjCwtf-UsMbqMtpXWHCPDtx4ibbhHr_fWaowfDBwlWPcYQWSW4XeURKWE78L3UhvCO1UiMvICnofNOKE5iAdgETU-6-rRcV6FQSTUE_oSawqeH8ANrLjtgUdc6s0zxIeToyMQ73y9pTZ229Da5Lrj5D2hbukKJ-ZsGi0yrC9qAQc/s1209/20230718_125819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5Ahxs7WFLH9-UJ5pjCwtf-UsMbqMtpXWHCPDtx4ibbhHr_fWaowfDBwlWPcYQWSW4XeURKWE78L3UhvCO1UiMvICnofNOKE5iAdgETU-6-rRcV6FQSTUE_oSawqeH8ANrLjtgUdc6s0zxIeToyMQ73y9pTZ229Da5Lrj5D2hbukKJ-ZsGi0yrC9qAQc/s320/20230718_125819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavXkdTgFPz0tHGx88Ui1clBuO0YifG2qVOQlD4FD71ZRfrRVK7SwV6Xb-vGb6SD4jW_mtSdTVyDXii80CaEk9TzONZqyAQrx_5GKSWZ7tmcpapfc_x9bjQiKGoSBlD7VsIfIz3l03Brs78AsZlOY4PkVNOziV6BOoBpek8Ipht0f5268sWvp7sv0zV5c/s1209/20230718_130245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiavXkdTgFPz0tHGx88Ui1clBuO0YifG2qVOQlD4FD71ZRfrRVK7SwV6Xb-vGb6SD4jW_mtSdTVyDXii80CaEk9TzONZqyAQrx_5GKSWZ7tmcpapfc_x9bjQiKGoSBlD7VsIfIz3l03Brs78AsZlOY4PkVNOziV6BOoBpek8Ipht0f5268sWvp7sv0zV5c/s320/20230718_130245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WguFGDTLJosCj8aqCGUJazzs_vtkKkjmUpgAJgzRZXhKSvhBWB-rKWWVOTFAHl2XHcfu0wzNH8H2Tf_nkwua0nR_t-LqvzP23z8_TcJb3OrvRho2_tbmcN0U-hYDifa2LUpZ7tEsPcl9yz_RP080PRq22BdRgiqJ1HxJouDQSjwPTDrXyHQtBI2CLQ0/s1209/20230718_131017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WguFGDTLJosCj8aqCGUJazzs_vtkKkjmUpgAJgzRZXhKSvhBWB-rKWWVOTFAHl2XHcfu0wzNH8H2Tf_nkwua0nR_t-LqvzP23z8_TcJb3OrvRho2_tbmcN0U-hYDifa2LUpZ7tEsPcl9yz_RP080PRq22BdRgiqJ1HxJouDQSjwPTDrXyHQtBI2CLQ0/s320/20230718_131017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ma perchè tanta enfasi su questo canyon? Perchè si tratta di una spettacolare fenditura nella roccia viva scavata dal Rio Grijalva, che si può navigare fino alla diga che fornisce energia idroelettrica dal 1981, per oltre 35km. In questo tratto di fiume la roccia si tuffa a picco nell'acqua e, nei punti più alti, crea un balzo di 800 metri di altezza e 200 di profondità. Oltre alla natura spettacolare del luogo, già per sè interessante, la mia curiosità si è accesa quando ho visto la quantità e varietà di specie animali e vegetali che popolano la riserva. Abbiamo visto, finalmente da vicino e benone, i coccodrilli! E scimmie ragno, pellicani d'acqua dolce, cormorani, aironi, garzette e altri uccelli acquatici che non sono stata in grado di riconoscere. Alcuni così sottili e leggeri da riuscire a galleggiare su singole foglie di piante acquatiche grandi come un palmo di mano. Deliziosi! Il tour dura circa due ore mezza e la guida, che è anche il capitàn (e a metà escursione non manca di chiedere una mancia facendo girare un berretto), spiega tutto ciò che c'è da sapere su idrogeologia, fauna e flora. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7yTHfP8L79lWNuqkUWwBNGuIzRBxapyuUDALQTpLIKYD_wWwHX_kPOVf7HeVPf9uPWAugtMBOSpHfBrWbOaFw0D8mXT3AKfj3BO6-IbNU3bkoomDstsD3qLcYv8L2bU-SgLmBUjIR7cu_g-Nb0SrDSxgSR9rhlyHuaqncmt4WTQdFmxZkzxluMX5sb0k/s1209/20230718_132004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7yTHfP8L79lWNuqkUWwBNGuIzRBxapyuUDALQTpLIKYD_wWwHX_kPOVf7HeVPf9uPWAugtMBOSpHfBrWbOaFw0D8mXT3AKfj3BO6-IbNU3bkoomDstsD3qLcYv8L2bU-SgLmBUjIR7cu_g-Nb0SrDSxgSR9rhlyHuaqncmt4WTQdFmxZkzxluMX5sb0k/s320/20230718_132004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj89j63A5WaikcttfI__8ASuNKo6ghvBQq2Sv9F1HZuwHN0w6BO6WOJpBOQNb1nSP9tb-e2xAzqn8nZsyDfjLSPHQUnBTWVrFR4LUJ06-DztuGI6r8YHnYCWle85BnSra5lzS4snFc6TdRE7pBkTZK0NF64M6ovI_b7YLiigIvfENwk891pO4q1sdCjt0A/s1209/20230718_132633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj89j63A5WaikcttfI__8ASuNKo6ghvBQq2Sv9F1HZuwHN0w6BO6WOJpBOQNb1nSP9tb-e2xAzqn8nZsyDfjLSPHQUnBTWVrFR4LUJ06-DztuGI6r8YHnYCWle85BnSra5lzS4snFc6TdRE7pBkTZK0NF64M6ovI_b7YLiigIvfENwk891pO4q1sdCjt0A/s320/20230718_132633.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Questo preciso scorcio appare nello stemma del Chiapas. Pare che da questi dirupi i guerrieri chiapa fieri e bellicosi, si siano suicidati, pur di non finire prigionieri nelle mani dei conquistadores guidati da Diego de Mazariego, nel 1528. Qui i chiapa avevano la loro capitale, Nandalumì, zona abitata fin dal 1200 a.C.. Mazariego, dopo aver fondato una città, la abbondonò per spostarsi nella più tranquilla e fresca San Cristobal (e i chiapa dormono nel letto del fiume).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEImwLWnxUs_SY0_blZdJJYgTRGGysPtHWpQJ00ZlrcFCHf0PLFeXmbKg6T5AW52YE3MtYMzc9vFwYJiqd1LVaEGx9AOjjQ3SJAudVR_dD7hb9Emv01iWVeafyjbwWs9dAt6X2O3sCsLIP-Rk5pnsEBOQjXSGz5kSHKrdOY3GM5_QnzoEnLBxjJKYnvXU/s1209/20230718_132924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEImwLWnxUs_SY0_blZdJJYgTRGGysPtHWpQJ00ZlrcFCHf0PLFeXmbKg6T5AW52YE3MtYMzc9vFwYJiqd1LVaEGx9AOjjQ3SJAudVR_dD7hb9Emv01iWVeafyjbwWs9dAt6X2O3sCsLIP-Rk5pnsEBOQjXSGz5kSHKrdOY3GM5_QnzoEnLBxjJKYnvXU/s320/20230718_132924.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEtipXr7MocNL3iA5fgHpKwBbtx9S6tUKep8yJUsCQJ3Eoz1-60-wPfs12YcC3432vrQdmJye9oudthO1NHwlZAEjzIPkdtqB0yB5U86tlg2Tk768sMyftYaolhOhIQ3oq9DD0fIxZ32oknHrP5XypaFdWcauWSiK1t3d1usBFVuhSbSvtgmrpb0Julk/s1209/20230718_133101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEtipXr7MocNL3iA5fgHpKwBbtx9S6tUKep8yJUsCQJ3Eoz1-60-wPfs12YcC3432vrQdmJye9oudthO1NHwlZAEjzIPkdtqB0yB5U86tlg2Tk768sMyftYaolhOhIQ3oq9DD0fIxZ32oknHrP5XypaFdWcauWSiK1t3d1usBFVuhSbSvtgmrpb0Julk/s320/20230718_133101.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scimmie ragno</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMtd-MBoX_huP5Gm_coDDK3B-VxBekVCLDGHXil7RRwoee28u56XxHGcI42DBRdk4LMbcPV25WxHm7DzpOuiABb6hnjlDSEIIt6FtHY8arf5uWlgc2TWUjNHlNJ3X2pKT0X7WhouH_fFYnYAAdAHKQt_dYhnNAlbS1CU86vCO1lwMj34c2TfXp1NisMQ/s1209/20230718_133112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMtd-MBoX_huP5Gm_coDDK3B-VxBekVCLDGHXil7RRwoee28u56XxHGcI42DBRdk4LMbcPV25WxHm7DzpOuiABb6hnjlDSEIIt6FtHY8arf5uWlgc2TWUjNHlNJ3X2pKT0X7WhouH_fFYnYAAdAHKQt_dYhnNAlbS1CU86vCO1lwMj34c2TfXp1NisMQ/s320/20230718_133112.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">altre scimmie ragno</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8eEERXIG9oO9qkz7rR5BeangwcvHXJGevgEQKW4rBBi34FkaF_WGph_vR6hLb2LylKmBnmuD1LCEFvNdbBaUaKRG1t3sDgLCNMX7SuSrd3PU_IX-ms0KOveoxcDQRPjacK5wDxu4Xhi0mlYgPnvb1swiNYXprY7Z0NBc1lt2956VNwZGl3H3X4kkHtr8/s1209/20230718_133244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8eEERXIG9oO9qkz7rR5BeangwcvHXJGevgEQKW4rBBi34FkaF_WGph_vR6hLb2LylKmBnmuD1LCEFvNdbBaUaKRG1t3sDgLCNMX7SuSrd3PU_IX-ms0KOveoxcDQRPjacK5wDxu4Xhi0mlYgPnvb1swiNYXprY7Z0NBc1lt2956VNwZGl3H3X4kkHtr8/s320/20230718_133244.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">avvoltoio posato</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhs1dp3bYRAIeiH7k8aut8hjG4CY-7RAYbvRro--0s24D5nKWQ9O3hgDST4wp5VKy2Wz96GVeazR7u_JHCYq7CcG6Mq-5_KRWMtYrnh6L4t2owSj75zXmbY16fcpMKiChrH2K7nET9j3kq5CHuSczvw8YyRfimvibfb4pS2KvibpA80ZOaB-0-Tbyl8k/s1209/20230718_133403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGhs1dp3bYRAIeiH7k8aut8hjG4CY-7RAYbvRro--0s24D5nKWQ9O3hgDST4wp5VKy2Wz96GVeazR7u_JHCYq7CcG6Mq-5_KRWMtYrnh6L4t2owSj75zXmbY16fcpMKiChrH2K7nET9j3kq5CHuSczvw8YyRfimvibfb4pS2KvibpA80ZOaB-0-Tbyl8k/s320/20230718_133403.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">baby drillo con mamma di 4m in acqua</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7M4Z523qcvtGD9fHzO9AdSgjRFK17TzhPU3P1aXtos82KSHwDxXlqGOLEhWmLW0lSws2kOMq6VRAE3v0pbRRog6w0zt5p3qP_UT0SbLGJYSXWL6av4SmuAPCl7SyJWhm5ZGczdr37dvDggYdLBlSgyptuCYMjY7OpwN4FMwwsjKQBwzQJ-5NWOdkBu7M/s1209/20230718_134846(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7M4Z523qcvtGD9fHzO9AdSgjRFK17TzhPU3P1aXtos82KSHwDxXlqGOLEhWmLW0lSws2kOMq6VRAE3v0pbRRog6w0zt5p3qP_UT0SbLGJYSXWL6av4SmuAPCl7SyJWhm5ZGczdr37dvDggYdLBlSgyptuCYMjY7OpwN4FMwwsjKQBwzQJ-5NWOdkBu7M/s320/20230718_134846(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">grotta con madonnina guadalupana</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXFqWFMDE5neCLaaSF2Sb2WSJeTokCt6W848O-7RBiqQ7blG6ESQwwsCLbRsAk9hPS-2O_9O-sbivltI6JBfUT0VupUZjq-B7Adc6TxAMq5rYDOzHJsUQNoiyItjXoLn39MSHpnoIFnyKNjXRoPSxuBtlOwjMjWYfej41QjRdGDvwa3_f1Qhu9zFqLAI/s1209/20230718_145912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXXFqWFMDE5neCLaaSF2Sb2WSJeTokCt6W848O-7RBiqQ7blG6ESQwwsCLbRsAk9hPS-2O_9O-sbivltI6JBfUT0VupUZjq-B7Adc6TxAMq5rYDOzHJsUQNoiyItjXoLn39MSHpnoIFnyKNjXRoPSxuBtlOwjMjWYfej41QjRdGDvwa3_f1Qhu9zFqLAI/s320/20230718_145912.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbi9cMpQn2ecPCC4yLQG4QUVEcJmHQ4KBfTSA0iPAN4Wex2GqDOhIWFFhLZihJEs6Vdk1R-y4oEyNvOwqiVDDHk5lXYxmNmFsZDBq0zCDYwhm7-AU5LI_YZbsLfdWoNdhVSU3NMNfb_Oe5Lm_B0h0eWh9vWyhIbnmrmHxEVGrt5pujykvGIckTUByc4Rk/s1209/20230718_145351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbi9cMpQn2ecPCC4yLQG4QUVEcJmHQ4KBfTSA0iPAN4Wex2GqDOhIWFFhLZihJEs6Vdk1R-y4oEyNvOwqiVDDHk5lXYxmNmFsZDBq0zCDYwhm7-AU5LI_YZbsLfdWoNdhVSU3NMNfb_Oe5Lm_B0h0eWh9vWyhIbnmrmHxEVGrt5pujykvGIckTUByc4Rk/s320/20230718_145351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaksty_r4T43uDgMx86t2IcrU-sj1-L1OgPB6v0DqLArxt-KuXg3pgLxELuNhqiNSh53gohMdUCVPXf4l6zNHR31zbZFWCVOfsJKl8JcJrhgQ-V2jl3f8z0XMQtq6wF4M0vgyvLh3C8A1vnjWaXiWKNBVF_CZA6yzs1er1fZBAUVZ4HWagVC2j5vuxF0/s1209/20230718_143216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIaksty_r4T43uDgMx86t2IcrU-sj1-L1OgPB6v0DqLArxt-KuXg3pgLxELuNhqiNSh53gohMdUCVPXf4l6zNHR31zbZFWCVOfsJKl8JcJrhgQ-V2jl3f8z0XMQtq6wF4M0vgyvLh3C8A1vnjWaXiWKNBVF_CZA6yzs1er1fZBAUVZ4HWagVC2j5vuxF0/s320/20230718_143216.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">abbordaggio da parte di barchetta-bar che vende cibo e bevande</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinp13AjP2FK3Jhj2jI0S3Q1nCUKeM4EEIe347YLjXaVGVlw0pXo5Xgg6ZJTxPU0AuFrUx2ansxFYNxrDo6HbGqQ3HwPWVv2hsF0_ifnSrGAHK4LZbv_9yIJF7nK28aFH-Ew6zEGwKb3YSOToIl-0TlQlUiHRaw28HXn-JVt-ez_WR0qHpbp05Tqj8SJUg/s1209/20230718_141829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinp13AjP2FK3Jhj2jI0S3Q1nCUKeM4EEIe347YLjXaVGVlw0pXo5Xgg6ZJTxPU0AuFrUx2ansxFYNxrDo6HbGqQ3HwPWVv2hsF0_ifnSrGAHK4LZbv_9yIJF7nK28aFH-Ew6zEGwKb3YSOToIl-0TlQlUiHRaw28HXn-JVt-ez_WR0qHpbp05Tqj8SJUg/s320/20230718_141829.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la diga</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHJuparjIQCCxvEQA9A6ktLKn1ZWOBQ3Cb15V0fCkx78n5-Ax7aOU8FZCtlrfbbIWDsHUVYAoXu2uvRpH46n5_GJG5pfDkSn929l69ESiceulZ6Z9pfDwpmHo4hSjzdWJZkqm6ZK-n5vq2QjVErhwtxqInSzDqbJhhK0huOVwuOFa6Ts-pK8kwazc3Mo/s1209/20230718_141238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJHJuparjIQCCxvEQA9A6ktLKn1ZWOBQ3Cb15V0fCkx78n5-Ax7aOU8FZCtlrfbbIWDsHUVYAoXu2uvRpH46n5_GJG5pfDkSn929l69ESiceulZ6Z9pfDwpmHo4hSjzdWJZkqm6ZK-n5vq2QjVErhwtxqInSzDqbJhhK0huOVwuOFa6Ts-pK8kwazc3Mo/s320/20230718_141238.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhACPp3fUuK1LVXnCyRl7QPlBXxLcf-iWHPFBvqpQfJ_5XikzZNxX3HvnzDpGwwKQ9IPb1xpogiu0uJDWUvaLWMituOT06HmOqqmUZqYndDyJO7EcRvbkny2yWXb1jGZ0zTdrsCzMsWCd3Q9Cp8asx2tPiSS-hNmSSSe28giVjqGG5KHeMQk8Kv4ak3SlM/s979/20230718_140644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhACPp3fUuK1LVXnCyRl7QPlBXxLcf-iWHPFBvqpQfJ_5XikzZNxX3HvnzDpGwwKQ9IPb1xpogiu0uJDWUvaLWMituOT06HmOqqmUZqYndDyJO7EcRvbkny2yWXb1jGZ0zTdrsCzMsWCd3Q9Cp8asx2tPiSS-hNmSSSe28giVjqGG5KHeMQk8Kv4ak3SlM/s320/20230718_140644.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una cascata dalla stranissima forma ad albero di Natale (a me pare più un fungo)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT14ZxjKDOJ8KvIFoZZ9VZpvE-dueLAfrOkhz5CFrhlHjJluIgLZZ1dbM-Uca4GNybWbQl0WC185bfkB8kRoyPfObHhUm5jtTOpxBhTSuEGWqvGmPO2CxgYrhtSCU69F8OBg6dMaM1kzFKLTQtyDKbFkiCrR8lfmDKYeCkUU2yVMwaUyUSS0m214fxhYI/s979/20230718_140624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT14ZxjKDOJ8KvIFoZZ9VZpvE-dueLAfrOkhz5CFrhlHjJluIgLZZ1dbM-Uca4GNybWbQl0WC185bfkB8kRoyPfObHhUm5jtTOpxBhTSuEGWqvGmPO2CxgYrhtSCU69F8OBg6dMaM1kzFKLTQtyDKbFkiCrR8lfmDKYeCkUU2yVMwaUyUSS0m214fxhYI/s320/20230718_140624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrPF-YfWasZ5JhEilJOxxIcQ73XF0SuM1KXwfqLn3UQRmudpZnM9LqO7eW2IR2G8es5ZjrGMN3jVuxo1lQH9whffupkB8ioN-3g00B8K7wXUzTJzpbEZLoc_n8xs6V6jAdNOgc6t8nDvbD81hbLZ91zC-6J57CiBuanWKqL4xbJv6qJ4ZLqnVGDZfinLI/s1209/20230718_140251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrPF-YfWasZ5JhEilJOxxIcQ73XF0SuM1KXwfqLn3UQRmudpZnM9LqO7eW2IR2G8es5ZjrGMN3jVuxo1lQH9whffupkB8ioN-3g00B8K7wXUzTJzpbEZLoc_n8xs6V6jAdNOgc6t8nDvbD81hbLZ91zC-6J57CiBuanWKqL4xbJv6qJ4ZLqnVGDZfinLI/s320/20230718_140251.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpYFbLhmAsgv1NJNxNlxRJUKaLpgD4m4YpqdyuP_USC_FyefbhyIFytNm-eU-aauAOyNL6rIEZC9CWAvJVNrQ38bhYXROtBqVxf8pjdBm0UrX-oRoFx4Ip7lyMk-2G_gsOroSmNzbLgYo6C2-c9r0egmMxAW32GPfYPOXH8bMTo_DkdHUInlXH1ZLmd0/s1209/20230718_135756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpYFbLhmAsgv1NJNxNlxRJUKaLpgD4m4YpqdyuP_USC_FyefbhyIFytNm-eU-aauAOyNL6rIEZC9CWAvJVNrQ38bhYXROtBqVxf8pjdBm0UrX-oRoFx4Ip7lyMk-2G_gsOroSmNzbLgYo6C2-c9r0egmMxAW32GPfYPOXH8bMTo_DkdHUInlXH1ZLmd0/s320/20230718_135756.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">pellicani</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMS8LF6WHbxx1n6uPqUP48SSdMN9tKI2QOAuWQFc8C03PodA6bNxfn_HPwgoS6YOixaVFSQCMltznXiV3lbKDMZj4bsB0CDcM-XZahUj50urFxIkGNAq6KpVkG8RoemdoREd9AkeJj6km8MazN8lINxNMId_WiBJ9wv4ab84LD4NHMXeOasba7xEZdXcU/s1209/20230718_135010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMS8LF6WHbxx1n6uPqUP48SSdMN9tKI2QOAuWQFc8C03PodA6bNxfn_HPwgoS6YOixaVFSQCMltznXiV3lbKDMZj4bsB0CDcM-XZahUj50urFxIkGNAq6KpVkG8RoemdoREd9AkeJj6km8MazN8lINxNMId_WiBJ9wv4ab84LD4NHMXeOasba7xEZdXcU/s320/20230718_135010.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>L'esperienza vale tutti e 15 gli euro che costa! E' un giro veramente incredibile, e poi vogliamo palare dei coccodrilli? Ma chi li ha mai visti così liberi, nel loro ambiente naturale, da vicino, mentre fanno le loro cosine da rettiloni? Scendo dalla barca tutta storta per il dondolio prolungato e gli otoliti lasciati ai pellicani e ai pelligatti, ma soddisfattissima. I coccodrilli!</div><div><br /></div><div>Approfittiamo dell'ora ancora presta per fare un giro sul malecon</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhItdahpntEBUaA1S-XdoZLDfKQGn1bdWylOcYZGALBFYaD9ojVjUM8S5-fVxvYicOpP-dWjpLHYtkwEB6BSqYm00iittRNrrBUsTDijeypJmunmvU-_Uc9N5ESQdTxyZ5wTUlXaERTMBGcfO-u_X4kr7Hj9GtF0stuLvQR4_4aY6FMrvMmBfoku1-aa0/s1209/20230718_152631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhItdahpntEBUaA1S-XdoZLDfKQGn1bdWylOcYZGALBFYaD9ojVjUM8S5-fVxvYicOpP-dWjpLHYtkwEB6BSqYm00iittRNrrBUsTDijeypJmunmvU-_Uc9N5ESQdTxyZ5wTUlXaERTMBGcfO-u_X4kr7Hj9GtF0stuLvQR4_4aY6FMrvMmBfoku1-aa0/s320/20230718_152631.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL8o_W9Ql4Hk18kUjnLzwbz11DEoWaXAdK1YwIxbVWY4An01nCb6GlGb3MymCg7eCiXvfOPKw7UgudnZ2VPywDEakJYKCRFxgoOuWs2f9vz7LoieicG7_TU0MiLTkzRckj6wSF4alT5GewGu-ePSd2OBmIdFt02KhpKgYZelNWjmxXFF4ygyYbFD3FQxw/s1209/20230718_152644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL8o_W9Ql4Hk18kUjnLzwbz11DEoWaXAdK1YwIxbVWY4An01nCb6GlGb3MymCg7eCiXvfOPKw7UgudnZ2VPywDEakJYKCRFxgoOuWs2f9vz7LoieicG7_TU0MiLTkzRckj6wSF4alT5GewGu-ePSd2OBmIdFt02KhpKgYZelNWjmxXFF4ygyYbFD3FQxw/s320/20230718_152644.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>e alla chiese seicentesca costuita dai domenicani. Ci lasciamo casualmente sfuggire il museo della lacca, che espone una pregiatissima collezione di zucche laccate anche antiche, che sono la specialità artigianale della zona. Non ci lasciamo scappare invece la ricca collezione di statue custodita in chiesa, dove compaiono, in ordine,</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEskwFeXlDEkiFqAZQAM4H_RdYNI4d_yAm_PXNF924UvxMb1VFkDLf39F7pprhIIlRpDp88avdVH_xzdR10qSJbZDGmNUp2QYyie4burD6wd-ruAU7rhR3O3zNaNjiw2HOBaqam5-HSujVGYl4QAwJwOOilkQnIQERMZ7QptNYXg4cIXUqW3lnCJUXizA/s1209/20230718_153102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEskwFeXlDEkiFqAZQAM4H_RdYNI4d_yAm_PXNF924UvxMb1VFkDLf39F7pprhIIlRpDp88avdVH_xzdR10qSJbZDGmNUp2QYyie4burD6wd-ruAU7rhR3O3zNaNjiw2HOBaqam5-HSujVGYl4QAwJwOOilkQnIQERMZ7QptNYXg4cIXUqW3lnCJUXizA/s320/20230718_153102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6im_-MMoPw2WiZOoFCGLLz-Icg-Z9DSZjfkQqaLesq13mjky7MMOVSUmEvrNFNAGT-V7MX-Hqkqgs3Ot9pUvdR9XbULzxZMzXkH1gOHQhvIuxITlyodFLsEQNXUQ0jjl_q0MPzhjpixr45xIBPFWjUzm-VUqHQsZQRsEzCfYtC3MR1M6CQ8C2F1Z-XY/s1209/20230718_153222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6im_-MMoPw2WiZOoFCGLLz-Icg-Z9DSZjfkQqaLesq13mjky7MMOVSUmEvrNFNAGT-V7MX-Hqkqgs3Ot9pUvdR9XbULzxZMzXkH1gOHQhvIuxITlyodFLsEQNXUQ0jjl_q0MPzhjpixr45xIBPFWjUzm-VUqHQsZQRsEzCfYtC3MR1M6CQ8C2F1Z-XY/s320/20230718_153222.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS53J207DNQeI3vSyFQmw0MR5k99mJKZXC95PBnjJqjvSN_fVhbh7AnVQnjNeSpC2qx77l6a8OiYdLo26DZ8u_7SdeITH-r2b2MYXzg6-LOTNI0y2CDMGeTaHKOT_g7-uuIfP9KnDhvkzdrgXvJwlKXrz1TJq-gOMHtzhbzQoh8xn0WCU1TLbcu0t4Xtg/s1209/20230718_153233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS53J207DNQeI3vSyFQmw0MR5k99mJKZXC95PBnjJqjvSN_fVhbh7AnVQnjNeSpC2qx77l6a8OiYdLo26DZ8u_7SdeITH-r2b2MYXzg6-LOTNI0y2CDMGeTaHKOT_g7-uuIfP9KnDhvkzdrgXvJwlKXrz1TJq-gOMHtzhbzQoh8xn0WCU1TLbcu0t4Xtg/s320/20230718_153233.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cristo palestrato</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDVjLARp15wKB9zQIjyUjYGlRKhclXKjj0YDDnRqe07jW2WaXuKGzJwlRw3KxrGJkLIYjFi7WML4GRGccu_Su3-oDX-nH47tkjgyaZueiUkgDYex1uVC5RDA3FaF_-VmafNO8WULPeCdMC7TVP1-DyU72jgB5uREcY_ECFc9wmvVeZmXx7nlT7C3AyLM/s1209/20230718_153302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDVjLARp15wKB9zQIjyUjYGlRKhclXKjj0YDDnRqe07jW2WaXuKGzJwlRw3KxrGJkLIYjFi7WML4GRGccu_Su3-oDX-nH47tkjgyaZueiUkgDYex1uVC5RDA3FaF_-VmafNO8WULPeCdMC7TVP1-DyU72jgB5uREcY_ECFc9wmvVeZmXx7nlT7C3AyLM/s320/20230718_153302.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gesù fronte alta su ciuco testa grossa</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWNn7PAeygD_-cWeVYRN3ixYmXP70JAS3dJk9k7v7RYgM1lqBq0XazX2NkFhfWEE_d36RYXsUAdealdpusjgghRNSL4Dy5N0hotNN-AWzH06iKhug3Td6xPN7bqeGp9Gg_Zj3KrwVGSS4XcUfo1vOPgvk9M6dvbonzYDaMHpMNP_duPMmc47r_JiPGcs/s1209/20230718_153320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWNn7PAeygD_-cWeVYRN3ixYmXP70JAS3dJk9k7v7RYgM1lqBq0XazX2NkFhfWEE_d36RYXsUAdealdpusjgghRNSL4Dy5N0hotNN-AWzH06iKhug3Td6xPN7bqeGp9Gg_Zj3KrwVGSS4XcUfo1vOPgvk9M6dvbonzYDaMHpMNP_duPMmc47r_JiPGcs/s320/20230718_153320.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melchiorre drag queen</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Y-DW90D748D64Ort8QFRYEHBrQQivWgZAw0m7xzCzSfd_FN5uI-B4sGoHAtNfhu2vslrBh9DwE5vN8olQsToC06LReyTQ5MLOg1lOZTor2hgF-Kc9aee9zhDD8pt6R3DcCa62l7043_LW386BG2u9gJLPfNkDy97At6CgllcvrphPBtheK3mTvY5iGc/s1209/20230718_153326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Y-DW90D748D64Ort8QFRYEHBrQQivWgZAw0m7xzCzSfd_FN5uI-B4sGoHAtNfhu2vslrBh9DwE5vN8olQsToC06LReyTQ5MLOg1lOZTor2hgF-Kc9aee9zhDD8pt6R3DcCa62l7043_LW386BG2u9gJLPfNkDy97At6CgllcvrphPBtheK3mTvY5iGc/s320/20230718_153326.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una Maddalena color prugna </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Cgenv5RKXLBrv6yKu5s6oPf0hgLvBzbaVemXvCWQxSscN3YIU-QjaJoC-9CtQSUbeGRqXV1kYU-JBaXFx3G5RDeM4EcmkBtU9Mk5400bms61Rh69_s9LqO7cogHvtNMxO704O8hWIQ01e6h15vy36n0CijNu8YoD_KtEpz5GYorjuwEDzbEHRzbWn6w/s1209/20230718_153403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Cgenv5RKXLBrv6yKu5s6oPf0hgLvBzbaVemXvCWQxSscN3YIU-QjaJoC-9CtQSUbeGRqXV1kYU-JBaXFx3G5RDeM4EcmkBtU9Mk5400bms61Rh69_s9LqO7cogHvtNMxO704O8hWIQ01e6h15vy36n0CijNu8YoD_KtEpz5GYorjuwEDzbEHRzbWn6w/s320/20230718_153403.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la famiglia belle ciglia</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAvqsGzoy-f1JxiyY9ieBgFPBWj764_aVpLaHcacAI5r40HzeDe3zVBDx6j7IIyCy3vMmIRNAjznCN0IcvNzv_CrJHykfNcxGd3nYxsutz4fvfpOpgAc0J7YDbjq0lJtLbzYxyBzuOtJLN1Uxidu9kXaNOJzEWAjU_cAN6jbdr4kmZLLxFV5CKKAztZc/s1209/20230718_153422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAvqsGzoy-f1JxiyY9ieBgFPBWj764_aVpLaHcacAI5r40HzeDe3zVBDx6j7IIyCy3vMmIRNAjznCN0IcvNzv_CrJHykfNcxGd3nYxsutz4fvfpOpgAc0J7YDbjq0lJtLbzYxyBzuOtJLN1Uxidu9kXaNOJzEWAjU_cAN6jbdr4kmZLLxFV5CKKAztZc/s320/20230718_153422.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'anonimo del trenino</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxTcGWXSWy-abIuQzW2-vavotV_x8kY8RCzVuYY46uke4HB3HhSq6_UO8HCKyvU6Co2m5wzq3EEIDulNdRHBHAAnihmFxisjJz6CmnuwMGe0iuVPVa7nV55SAXPw4lMc3jfdL6UioyRO1cxWAYrXkMTUw69gh5-R4PTkj2XRvAzyK9MOtnKsagBEmPOI/s1209/20230718_153448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxTcGWXSWy-abIuQzW2-vavotV_x8kY8RCzVuYY46uke4HB3HhSq6_UO8HCKyvU6Co2m5wzq3EEIDulNdRHBHAAnihmFxisjJz6CmnuwMGe0iuVPVa7nV55SAXPw4lMc3jfdL6UioyRO1cxWAYrXkMTUw69gh5-R4PTkj2XRvAzyK9MOtnKsagBEmPOI/s320/20230718_153448.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gesù che si è scofanato una teglia di lasagne e dice: ancora due?</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-41YS6JxOQwX9VbQw_iK6jt67LQazEz3RIkuJpGcbz6GXBwhDEODc_zSJRniKgL_qPYdlwjk3TRQwaeOrrIykSA5MOnPKqdPsE52DKOodOLOvmhF1obojd_9Q2LpKMYjY2Qu0iBsHgkhkRtDCTVGOrhIwnTrGtMo9mwnwGLECFq9BWfovPPtPSJ6wAA/s1209/20230718_153635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-41YS6JxOQwX9VbQw_iK6jt67LQazEz3RIkuJpGcbz6GXBwhDEODc_zSJRniKgL_qPYdlwjk3TRQwaeOrrIykSA5MOnPKqdPsE52DKOodOLOvmhF1obojd_9Q2LpKMYjY2Qu0iBsHgkhkRtDCTVGOrhIwnTrGtMo9mwnwGLECFq9BWfovPPtPSJ6wAA/s320/20230718_153635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Blasfemia scema a parte, usciti dal tempio facciamo un giro nella plaza de armas, circondata da freschi portici invasi di prodotti artigianali, dai tessuti al pox, dal miele alle zucche laccate, ai suonatori di marimba. Perchè il Chiapas è la terra della marimba!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTn_RlLipd8rv-bgNKpCSAvgkIPAzcQDp_PJg_zEs4mMTFGmXnPoLkiMkrA_Xmch5Q60BeG3M5CuUnFSMvCAr6T9rU3W0B-ryTK0RJJIxXKByiNtOcMKF7qtpMioggh7rcDt1kbRwR8lCod6sOL5Q2lnVKSme1KiYFSbVUglA1L7DbA_w2-RPMNPjPh8/s1209/20230718_154211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTn_RlLipd8rv-bgNKpCSAvgkIPAzcQDp_PJg_zEs4mMTFGmXnPoLkiMkrA_Xmch5Q60BeG3M5CuUnFSMvCAr6T9rU3W0B-ryTK0RJJIxXKByiNtOcMKF7qtpMioggh7rcDt1kbRwR8lCod6sOL5Q2lnVKSme1KiYFSbVUglA1L7DbA_w2-RPMNPjPh8/s320/20230718_154211.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMHwmASc1Qx90IIJE1c4kEQBwG_rYKdEhFaTiLCgNBRQDs1HyfeER1V6m-f6rIxKx7g6wusYMYoqY7vtB1f9XOOwlJ4V3MbVycT7D-_rVSI9SoBFdTHO3Gxwm-xRSVDGaIUgpAvIicblytvvJjUW-OO6hAgHK6vsDK2lt58dUPSfFJE1YwDEADiflyPD8/s1209/20230718_154242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMHwmASc1Qx90IIJE1c4kEQBwG_rYKdEhFaTiLCgNBRQDs1HyfeER1V6m-f6rIxKx7g6wusYMYoqY7vtB1f9XOOwlJ4V3MbVycT7D-_rVSI9SoBFdTHO3Gxwm-xRSVDGaIUgpAvIicblytvvJjUW-OO6hAgHK6vsDK2lt58dUPSfFJE1YwDEADiflyPD8/s320/20230718_154242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPChrPOJuwRwu8DaiAJtDz0PiCQ9g9Ge3sZc1tkW1pNDgbdzvBWAm1G0Scl_HFbfWiAWzmHxNijrSAig2MI7ETOUnxVmXpUMJC2mp0hRi6ylagvoC7DGiyo2e7Yo0-dh1miCmUXYjk9CDw8mycomb9NEpuuiKXaQ5Y5ggYbAWRa5O0Y3Pb614oHSMiQMk/s1209/20230718_154430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPChrPOJuwRwu8DaiAJtDz0PiCQ9g9Ge3sZc1tkW1pNDgbdzvBWAm1G0Scl_HFbfWiAWzmHxNijrSAig2MI7ETOUnxVmXpUMJC2mp0hRi6ylagvoC7DGiyo2e7Yo0-dh1miCmUXYjk9CDw8mycomb9NEpuuiKXaQ5Y5ggYbAWRa5O0Y3Pb614oHSMiQMk/s320/20230718_154430.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDS8Qc6GQGMwMMnKYZ8W5tZymyx7xs5i8kXCWWNrgVsqIqUg1AdUGfAvOu6HHbKnxxUuRhbrcQIBQqWVxXLnkhbV7cmuAL5YqdPpnOzTYt94Y305MqY5jpd4ggOrUnNPZb-zUEGoG9lEUamM2fgUrL6g-CehKXWH5W63WftXwf80vz0Rdf4O-xHwkDr4/s1209/20230718_154706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDS8Qc6GQGMwMMnKYZ8W5tZymyx7xs5i8kXCWWNrgVsqIqUg1AdUGfAvOu6HHbKnxxUuRhbrcQIBQqWVxXLnkhbV7cmuAL5YqdPpnOzTYt94Y305MqY5jpd4ggOrUnNPZb-zUEGoG9lEUamM2fgUrL6g-CehKXWH5W63WftXwf80vz0Rdf4O-xHwkDr4/s320/20230718_154706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJriHj4iig8YkfXEVhidg3tr3KR708liJV8p-K0V3r7-j9qwMwNaZ52yDaqmRFBooSN2LwoxMTKk1kqk9gkp7WpfQIrhMK3J1bUjJhZFQlqBPeUarxmCr_8FZCDZIf8Z-TuokWDz5hH5aQC9ctyKHhKZZRhY12xjWojS_hjEdOtu1dowYT8bFfJ2X1DrQ/s1209/20230718_154732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJriHj4iig8YkfXEVhidg3tr3KR708liJV8p-K0V3r7-j9qwMwNaZ52yDaqmRFBooSN2LwoxMTKk1kqk9gkp7WpfQIrhMK3J1bUjJhZFQlqBPeUarxmCr_8FZCDZIf8Z-TuokWDz5hH5aQC9ctyKHhKZZRhY12xjWojS_hjEdOtu1dowYT8bFfJ2X1DrQ/s320/20230718_154732.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFD0IBrLKIACh8GoZ2RihAc04iUFCrw1gTn_7GM5_nvvfbEDDK_3S54nFgmnBL3cRTeQGPj_uf1CQtqC8axuIQ-uu0STFhYmq5ZlVi8xCqAwj_QuDPdLHQL6Ddv6Ys233y5E9v_nQfFXIB7h80oDEaOdCQ21l6BGelunVI1rFJPqxEpVJvyIFBFVInOmE/s1209/20230718_154743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFD0IBrLKIACh8GoZ2RihAc04iUFCrw1gTn_7GM5_nvvfbEDDK_3S54nFgmnBL3cRTeQGPj_uf1CQtqC8axuIQ-uu0STFhYmq5ZlVi8xCqAwj_QuDPdLHQL6Ddv6Ys233y5E9v_nQfFXIB7h80oDEaOdCQ21l6BGelunVI1rFJPqxEpVJvyIFBFVInOmE/s320/20230718_154743.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il cuore della piazza è la Pila, o fuente colonial, fontana in mattoni in stile gotico mudejar che si dice ricordi la forma della corona spagnola. Risale al 1563.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfuMoAgp9oCyvPfjj5GduphNdwV3linU87iPrmJinJmSelXkADqlqofb_NWJ0DJaTuwnRkz58Yp2wmVlcwC2NXjebLQvrQeraxGYfhpgrCS_pnFNKWpWoylMAQlWW9e38SINfIN6t1DD3dq8rhjbVgaqrle-LkCriFOtoDzrBMI0shNUvVZEQ9AR04g0/s1209/20230718_154911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfuMoAgp9oCyvPfjj5GduphNdwV3linU87iPrmJinJmSelXkADqlqofb_NWJ0DJaTuwnRkz58Yp2wmVlcwC2NXjebLQvrQeraxGYfhpgrCS_pnFNKWpWoylMAQlWW9e38SINfIN6t1DD3dq8rhjbVgaqrle-LkCriFOtoDzrBMI0shNUvVZEQ9AR04g0/s320/20230718_154911.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomWjn-1AKDL4_FOWnKK3VU_yGIRtexxHiXS7RJqSnSBrGI6Be2bes3SsKb9KhypAAAoIMNNCmVrYjJwAfBG-sPqgdpIwFMb9AKzDKg4gifkTJJPPzDFy85pCO_vZMkyHwroJNKGhX9_IMym0Dlmb465gkt308tnFhmCDiYgt3C89T4-toCEGuPMzbsog/s1209/20230718_154932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomWjn-1AKDL4_FOWnKK3VU_yGIRtexxHiXS7RJqSnSBrGI6Be2bes3SsKb9KhypAAAoIMNNCmVrYjJwAfBG-sPqgdpIwFMb9AKzDKg4gifkTJJPPzDFy85pCO_vZMkyHwroJNKGhX9_IMym0Dlmb465gkt308tnFhmCDiYgt3C89T4-toCEGuPMzbsog/s320/20230718_154932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poco distante si erge la Pochota, grande albero millenario (dicunt) venerato dai nativi come ceiba. Nel 1945 è stato in parte bruciato da un incendio, ma, grazie all'intervento della comunità, si è salvato e le sue radici si sono fatte più profonde e forti.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWBTsMP4rzKt9Jp22ZeDsm3u6iypDefzbwFxcVA1pBJ7W3T8-oEmy4soVYisZacn5YUxk1-GYOPeSPPxNQ8MTRZXbYOXTAvgOMEOYam5dTyMMUUjcXNyxldFsTfMOvg6llNgFhY7IICWQ6iZFdxkwHZeliTe-I0-ABKuxcJwruKVqadQaiq-Is7_BT2_I/s979/20230718_160043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWBTsMP4rzKt9Jp22ZeDsm3u6iypDefzbwFxcVA1pBJ7W3T8-oEmy4soVYisZacn5YUxk1-GYOPeSPPxNQ8MTRZXbYOXTAvgOMEOYam5dTyMMUUjcXNyxldFsTfMOvg6llNgFhY7IICWQ6iZFdxkwHZeliTe-I0-ABKuxcJwruKVqadQaiq-Is7_BT2_I/s320/20230718_160043.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95L5XboG8wxoqfYnI5AmeYQ3j_Ybv2zGVs-Pwg3Bpa29X8AlZrgD1R3jhjRgPaMkNCPn0nHYSBJ941Eyu2j1E6uyYCEE0qITbVJWpvOuEd2XfJYQKuK0LNFvBstxGM8rYCXm3hvGEOFPR5ogiBe1bxE2aM6R7BOlvJ2s1hTDGyySbDpJN2bQuujMYIJk/s979/20230718_160216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95L5XboG8wxoqfYnI5AmeYQ3j_Ybv2zGVs-Pwg3Bpa29X8AlZrgD1R3jhjRgPaMkNCPn0nHYSBJ941Eyu2j1E6uyYCEE0qITbVJWpvOuEd2XfJYQKuK0LNFvBstxGM8rYCXm3hvGEOFPR5ogiBe1bxE2aM6R7BOlvJ2s1hTDGyySbDpJN2bQuujMYIJk/s320/20230718_160216.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Stanchini e puzzolini torniamo in albergo per, finalmente, la doccia e un po' di riposo. Approfitto delle ore libere per organizzare dettagliatamente le tappe dei prossimi giorni. Domani staremo ancora in Chiapas, ma da dopodomani entreremo in Oaxaca. Pedaleremo lungo la costa per qualche giorno, fino a Puerto Escondido. Da lì attaccheremo la Sierra per scavalcarne le vette meridionali e portarci sugli altipiani centrali. Direzione Città del Messico. </div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn0lxFvntlXCctTZNOr0psrB1a3INeERVOnF8RS5q2ooMmUZ8XAZSTDXc9xnWKvaWFBw9shFNx2nA-6L1M57ap_YkG3wmEgbM4e23kcWJzkZ8Pod2JJ4ay4kDXp3PpWUSFvfVn3zpN2vFvv4I0P7_R2t4AKMagu8Fbxm2qHh0JS-MiSCuaIIhCWTtMuAM/s1209/20230718_162916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn0lxFvntlXCctTZNOr0psrB1a3INeERVOnF8RS5q2ooMmUZ8XAZSTDXc9xnWKvaWFBw9shFNx2nA-6L1M57ap_YkG3wmEgbM4e23kcWJzkZ8Pod2JJ4ay4kDXp3PpWUSFvfVn3zpN2vFvv4I0P7_R2t4AKMagu8Fbxm2qHh0JS-MiSCuaIIhCWTtMuAM/s320/20230718_162916.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la porta della camera è, nemmeno a dirlo, decorata con la zucca laccata</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiX-laQ-WwSxSwXd2WHgYPE-RdYZJ5JBlY0KVm6BE5s2GO0QulUVRUdCJhCo23FTstrBwHhnjNtV10PTZCb2R0MZh3EgZjbVWlNCIEuJbqdEW6sL1Puj36R9QEVuCUcGY7ygN5dCdg_u_boRo5BXynYwxWpPAfYMybvMM2N4UMrHn_fjvTMvuLxtd2LA/s1183/20230718_162920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1183" data-original-width="887" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiX-laQ-WwSxSwXd2WHgYPE-RdYZJ5JBlY0KVm6BE5s2GO0QulUVRUdCJhCo23FTstrBwHhnjNtV10PTZCb2R0MZh3EgZjbVWlNCIEuJbqdEW6sL1Puj36R9QEVuCUcGY7ygN5dCdg_u_boRo5BXynYwxWpPAfYMybvMM2N4UMrHn_fjvTMvuLxtd2LA/s320/20230718_162920.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">posada in stile coloniale</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-89274503122628495502023-07-16T06:03:00.006+02:002023-07-16T06:03:58.812+02:0022-24. Tabasco e un primo assaggio di Chiapas. Palenque e la sua gente<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4NEXsE7WsgtFQFDWd0haN017Ytp-bXHHT4pyci2xqoljoMVo6_ZoQNfMXSWl9MhOdCYOiYyePiQ31iVL1bAmruWsRndColUatNjli-ohyrbi59RIuozOj_i0FZdk9ODSCUwyLHSyWCTI_w2OK9j_OKasvSwyNbXfCBXzKmUIWLBDzJVF87_jHF-UvRM/s1209/20230714_153932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4NEXsE7WsgtFQFDWd0haN017Ytp-bXHHT4pyci2xqoljoMVo6_ZoQNfMXSWl9MhOdCYOiYyePiQ31iVL1bAmruWsRndColUatNjli-ohyrbi59RIuozOj_i0FZdk9ODSCUwyLHSyWCTI_w2OK9j_OKasvSwyNbXfCBXzKmUIWLBDzJVF87_jHF-UvRM/w640-h480/20230714_153932.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXfgQmMohT0oCGd0Au9Ul2zx50Uq4UGU_lgUlySvwRjrsQ1nvijYW-DRtfp5mb_fkkH5l95aOQ0LD_cuPlLSrUQO1Fwm4prk0YM8KzDlQK_CjHx_LQ3p_-6qS_e79BteuE37YUrcDA1k7D5bHtrsWxOBfOxP74fFmZt3t3YENN56UAto69xZIZ8-ZM0Bo/s1210/20230715_122404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUbuyZdqEV1L1xY0zvTjDFnuRW5dlzaJeEas9B7Xf7n0d-eULwJJCVU-Iuq0t8_iPAWTjWYHzCogIWimLut7OC3QZG9m6ZIbXFPHfH9IDJy0LArH5Mxet9uLNHibVnELXIQBa8p28-u8Palw_Irlx3hj1nbByeWYJIHYCaMWGPnzL_LfQ_E1dja8iZgw/w640-h296/20230714_143136.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLMSmxaQdUSoOaKwKWFb0vX05DU_Dz16sn2Ul1iUn5jE_9w2D-5MqgDpjQPBzm1q26neSGzCHN662Ss2iERd2exsYn9-vSGnXYvGwQhc3sPFEgMBdNEMXQ08Fg4WYRsdG6nYS9H2jEU7wSlOebuIm-e8jrLVte3mrrm1c53DjRbmQhr0SHqWruGBpWjys/s1209/20230714_104853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLMSmxaQdUSoOaKwKWFb0vX05DU_Dz16sn2Ul1iUn5jE_9w2D-5MqgDpjQPBzm1q26neSGzCHN662Ss2iERd2exsYn9-vSGnXYvGwQhc3sPFEgMBdNEMXQ08Fg4WYRsdG6nYS9H2jEU7wSlOebuIm-e8jrLVte3mrrm1c53DjRbmQhr0SHqWruGBpWjys/w640-h480/20230714_104853.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBanJOfGuXZ1HTXoHngOp7_3ilOQqbqdE6iRoSZcbMpdKzAkYClOxQJOMSWsHWM0GUh2YPc1XT_aRZad7XDRBqc0Dy0bR45nmTnzXD54sMNpFGtEpV7vz-9rRMXasGeP4Ou4S0IkjW2yQOGswPvidLW-9JgL84b3HPv5CEy7J_kMb7-gmCyL8z4Tvndo/s1209/20230715_121657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBanJOfGuXZ1HTXoHngOp7_3ilOQqbqdE6iRoSZcbMpdKzAkYClOxQJOMSWsHWM0GUh2YPc1XT_aRZad7XDRBqc0Dy0bR45nmTnzXD54sMNpFGtEpV7vz-9rRMXasGeP4Ou4S0IkjW2yQOGswPvidLW-9JgL84b3HPv5CEy7J_kMb7-gmCyL8z4Tvndo/w480-h640/20230715_121657.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbul7ImA4JxseOXJDWbR0OyVujjygpZu4sG2_njuhExB1PxcVkVmfACLPIbIKWrwPH7hMq7GnCX8RwsGnIh_wJNsdF4RFffIkKu1d5BOb2U_Db3iMOcJhqAgfO3ANc7lGxhCOeL36MMOB4NNg5WGHPIIvQ17Lq0z9sl6s0GqUe1AyzLYGJN4TZqEuqzs/s1209/20230715_150450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbul7ImA4JxseOXJDWbR0OyVujjygpZu4sG2_njuhExB1PxcVkVmfACLPIbIKWrwPH7hMq7GnCX8RwsGnIh_wJNsdF4RFffIkKu1d5BOb2U_Db3iMOcJhqAgfO3ANc7lGxhCOeL36MMOB4NNg5WGHPIIvQ17Lq0z9sl6s0GqUe1AyzLYGJN4TZqEuqzs/w480-h640/20230715_150450.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">13/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Escarcega-El Aguacatal</div><div style="text-align: left;">106km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il caldo ci rende difficile persino dormire, considerando che il condizionatore spara sul letto e Gigi non può permettersi sbalzi di temperatura. Ci svegliamo presto, già madidi di sudore. Gigi sta meglio, non ha più febbre e se la sente di pedalare (forse perchè si è reso conto che l'alternativa sarebbe arrangiarsi un po' da solo per un paio di giorni, cosa che lo spaventa più del coccolone da caldo). Quindi colazione a tortillas e marmellata, un saluto al yucateco e siamo in strada. Escarcega è brutta anche al mattino, caliginosa e trafficata, con i suoi scheletri di edifici in cemento e cavi d'acciaio che paiono carcasse di dinosauri futuristici. L'ultimo scorcio è al monumento del chiclero, stivali, cappello e machete.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Ni7xpGt8u8ICm-2pJN7pqQ6_8OS5S_GKukfud9Mn5HgNosDOjX6K-Ko1FBjoylhLIjXObHstlCiw2vKHUMxfkFJVgjuAENefHJ7Pw8wqxyTk_Z3u9CUVoxwOFIF3C0A3n1a3LqevvzXH0YqccYz9QeK-AjxwSdXiUpgIlHwZ5o3R2qLpTHhtQRSYRh8/s1209/20230713_084423.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Ni7xpGt8u8ICm-2pJN7pqQ6_8OS5S_GKukfud9Mn5HgNosDOjX6K-Ko1FBjoylhLIjXObHstlCiw2vKHUMxfkFJVgjuAENefHJ7Pw8wqxyTk_Z3u9CUVoxwOFIF3C0A3n1a3LqevvzXH0YqccYz9QeK-AjxwSdXiUpgIlHwZ5o3R2qLpTHhtQRSYRh8/s320/20230713_084423.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Imbocchiamo nuovamente la stradona di ieri, usciamo dalla città e ci godiamo ancora un piacevolissimo vento a favore. Oltretutto oggi la strada è ancora più piana, e non ci sono accenni di salite, nemmeno piccole piccole. Il sole è velato dalle nubi, e per i primi 40km la temperatura rimane sopportabile. I pueblos si susseguono, minuscoli, ma con le loro strutture pubbliche: scuola, campetto, spiazzo coperto con tettoia dove si svolgono lezioni di danza ed educazione fisica... Insomma, che manca? Forse un nome più piacevole! Alcuni villaggi si chiamano con il numero del kilometro della statale su cui sorgono, e hanno tanto di monumento! Questo è il 36, per esempio.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFa8QpW2x5-dHFss8nAIT9s5sjA-byvAnadprNRch6y1kgLdUc7pbdYPyEqeZKQ3DRFR5zXwNszm5d4YW3b8Jt25-rLkAHSaLJR-uop7gz6OCW3-55dE2HSOnc5YhH3JwLcIuQ3qL8_7HavFRFkFgGkRPouqL7O3BgsEwtTcfBaaqotXMEh0OOw4Fn74/s1209/20230713_091634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFa8QpW2x5-dHFss8nAIT9s5sjA-byvAnadprNRch6y1kgLdUc7pbdYPyEqeZKQ3DRFR5zXwNszm5d4YW3b8Jt25-rLkAHSaLJR-uop7gz6OCW3-55dE2HSOnc5YhH3JwLcIuQ3qL8_7HavFRFkFgGkRPouqL7O3BgsEwtTcfBaaqotXMEh0OOw4Fn74/s320/20230713_091634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrG69py2U3ZdvUtU5RfbL9Eps8-p0EzXEOU5NR1HVARlfqTMCoH-hFuN6Aom60A-TrtyiqEnjXLV8MNSdo2kkDrFP3JcP-zIt8A_-gHsp_OZ9KppEtRidujj_fQqMf_ehhYWaxSNALM4eLcHvxkyjXrcNQFi5smaWm0nHxHlXb384mPnZm2dtyUv1Dd_g/s1209/20230713_091641.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrG69py2U3ZdvUtU5RfbL9Eps8-p0EzXEOU5NR1HVARlfqTMCoH-hFuN6Aom60A-TrtyiqEnjXLV8MNSdo2kkDrFP3JcP-zIt8A_-gHsp_OZ9KppEtRidujj_fQqMf_ehhYWaxSNALM4eLcHvxkyjXrcNQFi5smaWm0nHxHlXb384mPnZm2dtyUv1Dd_g/s320/20230713_091641.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-tr4zJQT31UC4AGBYYM7B4RgcEWzRIBzWC__SUXW5lWYJOUkmm8KZW07PUBaOhpOC0ett0y9YiCZEzo9760RAnm-vV-i_vZEOQsKkWWRYCMe66zU7CE2BbWUEs1BH5-nZJqW6WvKmD1uXZuHpP68l2Oeu2fU7rurnpixaWcz0MgG9DjuZ9iyLZoH5WY/s979/20230713_091710.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-tr4zJQT31UC4AGBYYM7B4RgcEWzRIBzWC__SUXW5lWYJOUkmm8KZW07PUBaOhpOC0ett0y9YiCZEzo9760RAnm-vV-i_vZEOQsKkWWRYCMe66zU7CE2BbWUEs1BH5-nZJqW6WvKmD1uXZuHpP68l2Oeu2fU7rurnpixaWcz0MgG9DjuZ9iyLZoH5WY/s320/20230713_091710.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUjoI6tkE-ZeqaXtndFz0lSoLRPwWTR4u4OV6fJCnkxDnimOrenjCat7nWMwSD64JPY1p8dlM1t-CrFBmePFvJgLICqmROjNL3jhzBGA2-rAf4WSR_PN5TrohzNFZl5LYGEqu-5anrlpiddOHuHx6fROGjLS5TmY-w2vEl1wNY67pN6P6baFuMvoWq95Q/s1209/20230713_091756.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUjoI6tkE-ZeqaXtndFz0lSoLRPwWTR4u4OV6fJCnkxDnimOrenjCat7nWMwSD64JPY1p8dlM1t-CrFBmePFvJgLICqmROjNL3jhzBGA2-rAf4WSR_PN5TrohzNFZl5LYGEqu-5anrlpiddOHuHx6fROGjLS5TmY-w2vEl1wNY67pN6P6baFuMvoWq95Q/s320/20230713_091756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tra un pueblo e l'altro ci sono i ranchos,, enormi, dove il termine estensivo assume un significato concreto e visibile. Sono tenute spesso curatissime, con l'erba tagliata e i recinti in legno per gli animali, un piccolo laghetto interno e mandrie di vacche e cavalli che pascolano libere. In effetti ci sono numerosi allevamenti che vendono bestiame, e, nemmeno a dirlo, altrettante macellerie e aziende di produzione di carne e latticini.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3ePyanTco1xcNg3MKY8yYYGvYWVMlu_dK49uJdqsxnhFGitJy5vLjHKR4_staHDx9o8x_LIUdraZ4v1PIZWOVW8dphXy8U2pv_RUC08zYXgvUIv19NHJkj0arrZx1jih3BpR-ygZVckcNtAKXiv-vmvjFFx0zX2p2CKPOj8kX-A5Qaj8AwDdf8raPF8/s1209/20230713_094120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3ePyanTco1xcNg3MKY8yYYGvYWVMlu_dK49uJdqsxnhFGitJy5vLjHKR4_staHDx9o8x_LIUdraZ4v1PIZWOVW8dphXy8U2pv_RUC08zYXgvUIv19NHJkj0arrZx1jih3BpR-ygZVckcNtAKXiv-vmvjFFx0zX2p2CKPOj8kX-A5Qaj8AwDdf8raPF8/s320/20230713_094120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfXO24mzeHEN2Re9gTI6VuGqe-hX9roYfSF6ZD2aEE0buVIcj2gSUcVB2vUITSVlOknmJR54AOOPr5fQ7Mrj4RGYvq6qRzazThzOqGz2n8sswGT_EdLmUJf7zobvXs6Qv7x7l4tLzu8ueGhh3zIGonYxQwDAyUBQOSk4dHnuGfMQObCZGU0MV_1gkd0I/s1209/20230713_094216.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfXO24mzeHEN2Re9gTI6VuGqe-hX9roYfSF6ZD2aEE0buVIcj2gSUcVB2vUITSVlOknmJR54AOOPr5fQ7Mrj4RGYvq6qRzazThzOqGz2n8sswGT_EdLmUJf7zobvXs6Qv7x7l4tLzu8ueGhh3zIGonYxQwDAyUBQOSk4dHnuGfMQObCZGU0MV_1gkd0I/s320/20230713_094216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFqvMrQcGZWCunfaOFUGKM1vmPiaG2Ws0qQkzNhgzbRURfVehqvxbFAFv5ib7hR3NmU56shupfK3XcgVshZvKeBdNNJa1FsEEh9ow6XiAEdowwjvTQMI9AXHZUoeP3v9YNnm2klS6DqsLFwLJVx3wpwgSIvbOwHoeHF-1dVg044e-13-P_oqc_g6EGJrE/s1209/20230713_094240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFqvMrQcGZWCunfaOFUGKM1vmPiaG2Ws0qQkzNhgzbRURfVehqvxbFAFv5ib7hR3NmU56shupfK3XcgVshZvKeBdNNJa1FsEEh9ow6XiAEdowwjvTQMI9AXHZUoeP3v9YNnm2klS6DqsLFwLJVx3wpwgSIvbOwHoeHF-1dVg044e-13-P_oqc_g6EGJrE/s320/20230713_094240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi deve fare qualche sosta in più del solito e approfittiamo della miriade di centri abitati per rinfrescarci e riempire le borracce. Non ci sono supermercati, e nemmeno veri e propri negozi di alimentari. Chi ha bottega, vende un po' di tutto, con una semplice ma efficace divisione in macrogeneri: i meccanici riparano e vendono tutto ciò che ha a che fare con auto, bici, moto, motori, metallo e gomma. Gli alimentari sono nei ristorantini stessi, spesso baracchini con quattro sedie e un fornello sotto ad una tettoia, dove però tutto è fatto al momento, anche il pane e le tortillas, a partire dalla farina. Nella stessa categoria ricadono i farmaci, venduti accanto alle caramelle e in cestini adiacenti (basta non confondersi). Vestiti, prodotti per la casa e cancelleria sono insieme, a parte. Una volta capito il meccanismo, si trova tutto!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3h3-1PEsRsatlhHt-PY9J39ub2Xdf5yPj94wRDXuWPpw0BATXx0aew1ojvD49m1wSClrRP3PUSajngUbOAbMFrEv2h3L-Fh1s0fOdrSVg8E3SEyCD377AQsjDsUUugiHTaC66PJQWbcI4O0IqhYr4uqncERlgSjkwZ0UH9OckW-GlcK-hx1JsSmLZNlM/s1209/20230713_100415.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3h3-1PEsRsatlhHt-PY9J39ub2Xdf5yPj94wRDXuWPpw0BATXx0aew1ojvD49m1wSClrRP3PUSajngUbOAbMFrEv2h3L-Fh1s0fOdrSVg8E3SEyCD377AQsjDsUUugiHTaC66PJQWbcI4O0IqhYr4uqncERlgSjkwZ0UH9OckW-GlcK-hx1JsSmLZNlM/s320/20230713_100415.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-mYapUj0gBaU2q-isk4vNhVZNxBeXfjPL8P9IqbH2hiVljDLI78oKvpQunSYy_QRBn0_5A3iMO9otpBRpUh7NIZgNMQTewWoPg8-FGe429s9cQIsh7TLV9sGTchLQxl-vC4d557uERDalsh2n4qOKKY3tJz32hrK7OGS4D5yZaMXSHNHgALsjFyplyw/s1209/20230713_100425.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-mYapUj0gBaU2q-isk4vNhVZNxBeXfjPL8P9IqbH2hiVljDLI78oKvpQunSYy_QRBn0_5A3iMO9otpBRpUh7NIZgNMQTewWoPg8-FGe429s9cQIsh7TLV9sGTchLQxl-vC4d557uERDalsh2n4qOKKY3tJz32hrK7OGS4D5yZaMXSHNHgALsjFyplyw/s320/20230713_100425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7SuCW6RBBP3wQ3QqoBI9MsYiMbanq5WYgkKGus27DTLaWa7qmPfnsNaCKfzWNAsjPtn_KUwoG5JlFWB3bzAuE3K0NSbTfn6YLmizB-nQUPCF2KjiqIqWPDFGiClBzPY0Vd8HS8Al3K3lIgB05xmFYND8n5Qd3aVh_eDF6FzXLgYXHgZihM5cnS4qgCg/s1209/20230713_100904.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7SuCW6RBBP3wQ3QqoBI9MsYiMbanq5WYgkKGus27DTLaWa7qmPfnsNaCKfzWNAsjPtn_KUwoG5JlFWB3bzAuE3K0NSbTfn6YLmizB-nQUPCF2KjiqIqWPDFGiClBzPY0Vd8HS8Al3K3lIgB05xmFYND8n5Qd3aVh_eDF6FzXLgYXHgZihM5cnS4qgCg/s320/20230713_100904.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YVfnLvbH5w6NjOGr3DQfhcz4_YJ4MOPiIcqeOq9ZTOF24XwKjZ1sSNTVECOpzKf_O3C_meZFRQ9-I55fRU1aVbeu7cDZYrzsh9owe7UWtuvC9SPEefj602MhjOKaUZyh3pFgmgDS4YA0lDINQsKlpT2rX6699Z2inX2Rxmd4t4CYNGdiRdR_wY2AFSs/s1209/20230713_103955.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YVfnLvbH5w6NjOGr3DQfhcz4_YJ4MOPiIcqeOq9ZTOF24XwKjZ1sSNTVECOpzKf_O3C_meZFRQ9-I55fRU1aVbeu7cDZYrzsh9owe7UWtuvC9SPEefj602MhjOKaUZyh3pFgmgDS4YA0lDINQsKlpT2rX6699Z2inX2Rxmd4t4CYNGdiRdR_wY2AFSs/s320/20230713_103955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxdZc6_36BeEXFu3Gi0dRifabRStPi-01mEoI-uqMnoJJf1UA9SQuJOCxzwPDysOP-Jbm6VdE4micDGt5lD8CchvsAfJsbq8xX0hIH4aUWD8Pt2LtnFC1hheRn--W-uv2e3q82_VHdG_4VFTb2BySQJGJl8TrqxnAiGMcBwfqz278FaV72z0IHI_tl79A/s1209/20230713_114304.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxdZc6_36BeEXFu3Gi0dRifabRStPi-01mEoI-uqMnoJJf1UA9SQuJOCxzwPDysOP-Jbm6VdE4micDGt5lD8CchvsAfJsbq8xX0hIH4aUWD8Pt2LtnFC1hheRn--W-uv2e3q82_VHdG_4VFTb2BySQJGJl8TrqxnAiGMcBwfqz278FaV72z0IHI_tl79A/s320/20230713_114304.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">queso la Bretaña! Questo devo mandarla a Raymond, che appena arrivato in Canada e lo attraverserà da parte a parte. Lo scorso anno ha fatto tutto il Messico in 3 mesi, e doveva risalire via USA in Alaska, ma a Tijuana gli hanno rubato tutto ed è dovuto rientrare preventivamente</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguvZIqlT0rqJ1p5tpvLNsesgxEfELRyTGysgY2R29PJmOZHupI4THfAir0jQYPqJSlebRHjPx-9kzPwc3J1MdLimpiHC8V4YsMaqLXrz0wWcBCFV5O9LF1xkD7XLMXB3HdLyWYTHsuh8R-XNVFU3atYLR7ZvEpK0yNC-YwX3ATyFTSuMyGkIqJZT9uFGw/s1209/20230713_122625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguvZIqlT0rqJ1p5tpvLNsesgxEfELRyTGysgY2R29PJmOZHupI4THfAir0jQYPqJSlebRHjPx-9kzPwc3J1MdLimpiHC8V4YsMaqLXrz0wWcBCFV5O9LF1xkD7XLMXB3HdLyWYTHsuh8R-XNVFU3atYLR7ZvEpK0yNC-YwX3ATyFTSuMyGkIqJZT9uFGw/s320/20230713_122625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif53NgHTb7EtFakWDmI15VkV7lOEAMMlHGb7CU6nIML8NHhX_O2SqxBa44pZ88RgMSoZAE7l8HO-yfddAWpW61f2f9aXhGmo9eiT-IDw1omnUdv___SUzg8qCwLB5hQYMRe4IBMHPYKNeK3_qMKci7kyF1mhgswYwLzUppJJdhCLNRY3amCfNe5iKPkjQ/s1209/20230713_122639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif53NgHTb7EtFakWDmI15VkV7lOEAMMlHGb7CU6nIML8NHhX_O2SqxBa44pZ88RgMSoZAE7l8HO-yfddAWpW61f2f9aXhGmo9eiT-IDw1omnUdv___SUzg8qCwLB5hQYMRe4IBMHPYKNeK3_qMKci7kyF1mhgswYwLzUppJJdhCLNRY3amCfNe5iKPkjQ/s320/20230713_122639.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La strada curva un poco e segue, seppur in entroterra di qualche kilometro, la forma della costa del Golfo, che è tutt'altro che lontana. Superiamo Mamantel, ufficialmente chiamata Pancho Villa, e l'omonimo fiumiciattolo. Poco oltre il bivio per Candelaria, rinomata località fluviale molto sponsorizzata a livello di turismo locale, facciamo una lunga sosta perchè ora il sole picchia forte sulle nostre testoline e sul casco potremmo friggerci gli ovetti revuelti. Vendono una rara prelibatezza: i ghiaccioli artigianali. Gigi ne prende uno alla papaya, io uno al cocco e cannella. Sono fatto proprio con la polpa della frutta sminuzzata e congelata. Sono di-vi-ni!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiH3bVH-zRLfD9cqs7pMHeRVuv6FsQult7_4l3gwv4bzNynbVilEwXG7D7u9bckPimJ5i2xMicW-ACfQWakOR3wJQV_OaWIVvuor4txZSyJ48i7e0pWjUEFNx7DsSWuRQjtUkcLT-DeEM8GusmbXzugOI0AzzZuudvjeInX4ZZ3ugkqxHOmm49i2Affjk/s1209/20230713_123914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiH3bVH-zRLfD9cqs7pMHeRVuv6FsQult7_4l3gwv4bzNynbVilEwXG7D7u9bckPimJ5i2xMicW-ACfQWakOR3wJQV_OaWIVvuor4txZSyJ48i7e0pWjUEFNx7DsSWuRQjtUkcLT-DeEM8GusmbXzugOI0AzzZuudvjeInX4ZZ3ugkqxHOmm49i2Affjk/s320/20230713_123914.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvMThNdibwLIfMCTnlHIYNnuZ79Jzbv2gHKYmAiLnKUnP5BRjZzCZjaS2xZlBWodtW3DrZC2WqxuNvk6PM-1LKSHgVa5IazywFvUDqJ-MxDS5piEpCmQiOrq1_FlXskPewsC8cvc1rMaSeKI41V4URqGMEwOZDhATQ4wo_ANrOEetsgxTp-FBTzkYG3eo/s989/20230713_123947.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvMThNdibwLIfMCTnlHIYNnuZ79Jzbv2gHKYmAiLnKUnP5BRjZzCZjaS2xZlBWodtW3DrZC2WqxuNvk6PM-1LKSHgVa5IazywFvUDqJ-MxDS5piEpCmQiOrq1_FlXskPewsC8cvc1rMaSeKI41V4URqGMEwOZDhATQ4wo_ANrOEetsgxTp-FBTzkYG3eo/s320/20230713_123947.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_qTG6SahmxSij3GRg_ft75ZuLcm5MeW9ljtusNTRwXpuN_XQ3nXCFEGmAwE-tYX65BcW96FKGiO5BdR7Qmc5Z7JYpUuKCcABwkA-XyuCpF-WgGwvvXo0wJxn5_VApNwpF-TgjaX4ohQeLV1SjuZXa92uoxug8ahesI4bwx2YuI8WMfD2FQHtMRGFgpt8/s1209/20230713_134739.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_qTG6SahmxSij3GRg_ft75ZuLcm5MeW9ljtusNTRwXpuN_XQ3nXCFEGmAwE-tYX65BcW96FKGiO5BdR7Qmc5Z7JYpUuKCcABwkA-XyuCpF-WgGwvvXo0wJxn5_VApNwpF-TgjaX4ohQeLV1SjuZXa92uoxug8ahesI4bwx2YuI8WMfD2FQHtMRGFgpt8/s320/20230713_134739.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbpftJqg16TCbGxMhp1InRrIcKZIIZhcE1QnkJoN--mGdojAYoGL4azLFGW0YF9mnNzzzfn7IblKY4J_JZDs1Z6lR4dBs-qPDQh1mBmthyZXHPH25qgZJRxToIxSoU-aCvSop-zQmKKx4ChTm-ZgeBeHsOziDMbqI2Vh7kfumwo17_9W6juP7xFSCQFY/s1209/20230713_134805.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbpftJqg16TCbGxMhp1InRrIcKZIIZhcE1QnkJoN--mGdojAYoGL4azLFGW0YF9mnNzzzfn7IblKY4J_JZDs1Z6lR4dBs-qPDQh1mBmthyZXHPH25qgZJRxToIxSoU-aCvSop-zQmKKx4ChTm-ZgeBeHsOziDMbqI2Vh7kfumwo17_9W6juP7xFSCQFY/s320/20230713_134805.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rZe3fonXr-YpWB7WhR6VmpxdMbVpSp4Af6N3fQGBsVy1_nwrD2fhy8fsntq_4cuC8gU3VXY98ugO8EV56WWbp3aosgWeXOgX2TIr2dpuxi5iFgCNh4o2CUUoWXRE2oUO-lggp_cQLPoQvPEslnGR5anWUXM-lDYYQxCjuES72zDuyTdOjx1akb07akM/s1209/20230713_134808.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0rZe3fonXr-YpWB7WhR6VmpxdMbVpSp4Af6N3fQGBsVy1_nwrD2fhy8fsntq_4cuC8gU3VXY98ugO8EV56WWbp3aosgWeXOgX2TIr2dpuxi5iFgCNh4o2CUUoWXRE2oUO-lggp_cQLPoQvPEslnGR5anWUXM-lDYYQxCjuES72zDuyTdOjx1akb07akM/s320/20230713_134808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quando ci siamo un po' rinfrescati, ripartiamo. E' ancora presto e ci mancano una quarantina di kilometri -due ore e mezza circa al nostro passetto. Su Maps ho visto che ogni poco, anzi, ogni pochissimo, c'è un "paese", ma ormai conosco i miei pollos, questi non sono pueblos, sono ranchos privati ma tanto estesi e con tanto personale da poter essere assimilati a centri abitati, come da noi le cascine un tempo. I nomi lo dimostrano: si chiamano come i fondatori o i proprietari (La Elvira mi fa ridere, ma ci sono anche Las Marias, Cuatro Hermanos, Maia Isabel, e, su tutti Mayalan, che pare un verbo al futuro che riguarda i porcelli). Infatti per gli ultimi 40km pedaliamo dritti senza soste, in un continuum di proprietà private dove abitano mucche dalle lunghe corna, l'ampia pappagorgia e la gobbetta, vitelli tutti orecchie e cavalli magretti. E palme, oh quante palme! Ombra, nada. Acqua, nada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hqTtjEETmyLzPYjSFbWdjC-3EDt4hPYNQpzovNCA4ST-b5OwP6rlwp8CgZGdo7kZaqMMF7epPT-WoT_eQBDWKrx3qnantFaCk0uGmTAM_b_-Qgl8TWh7wsKrorxou3KJYhZDUIvdnAiAtYkyoUHORoSpF0ThI4i8aehsNuqaOaUbzQmUIiywi3JX4uE/s1209/20230713_145147.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hqTtjEETmyLzPYjSFbWdjC-3EDt4hPYNQpzovNCA4ST-b5OwP6rlwp8CgZGdo7kZaqMMF7epPT-WoT_eQBDWKrx3qnantFaCk0uGmTAM_b_-Qgl8TWh7wsKrorxou3KJYhZDUIvdnAiAtYkyoUHORoSpF0ThI4i8aehsNuqaOaUbzQmUIiywi3JX4uE/s320/20230713_145147.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rio Candelaria, lungo più di 400km</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuTvc4SOsX8x_2Fg3CJC8izTFTHyMXzk9zNy45cY7r7tcfkvXoUvn62oiZqsiCtGelamxSyKqPD8xKldd_k0HdqwOmCEkVuJn8KRmnG_FIpoe43ie3S6KKy9VnWnouL4vCyr8TQLlpPIuSxdG_7ereV0s7W0iyb7wRAEoLaLigiXxNjZALIPNkDijwHyA/s1209/20230713_150340.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuTvc4SOsX8x_2Fg3CJC8izTFTHyMXzk9zNy45cY7r7tcfkvXoUvn62oiZqsiCtGelamxSyKqPD8xKldd_k0HdqwOmCEkVuJn8KRmnG_FIpoe43ie3S6KKy9VnWnouL4vCyr8TQLlpPIuSxdG_7ereV0s7W0iyb7wRAEoLaLigiXxNjZALIPNkDijwHyA/s320/20230713_150340.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIt7kyBmNYHKCQC9WR-GsM_BZCRvgG6xR0ozmjF5g6Ui6yBlJz3aCmL77l3r-LaVMQTQqfd378_obC411aTMB6qNG6uldbpKO3NpZyDEwqRVoEFbWRWXYV-0IEjVqiqHGU0aOMp6fAwISeEqylASbUe0mMrejlDwflgQTOc5gVgalR0-L2ULpUuIAgQFE/s1209/20230713_150549.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIt7kyBmNYHKCQC9WR-GsM_BZCRvgG6xR0ozmjF5g6Ui6yBlJz3aCmL77l3r-LaVMQTQqfd378_obC411aTMB6qNG6uldbpKO3NpZyDEwqRVoEFbWRWXYV-0IEjVqiqHGU0aOMp6fAwISeEqylASbUe0mMrejlDwflgQTOc5gVgalR0-L2ULpUuIAgQFE/s320/20230713_150549.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gigi viaggia con una bottiglia di acqua non potabile da rovesciarsi in testa un po' alla volta per rinfrescare il cerbello</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4EX6Ywqr9lmDC0-TRauxASTe9m9QCZ-00wBwpoOLr2JXb3W-lUOBF23XQzo302y-t35phTeTq8cE0oxpGJfYZ-6FmW2sgUq66H4CXSwEsUNci_ZExQve-gHrJD4CUpw6kCx9ebjnlj5pbUco0k_nWu_a92SAVgi4bFQ1z-PKjTwPJxXquneyBZEEMpGQ/s1209/20230713_150554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4EX6Ywqr9lmDC0-TRauxASTe9m9QCZ-00wBwpoOLr2JXb3W-lUOBF23XQzo302y-t35phTeTq8cE0oxpGJfYZ-6FmW2sgUq66H4CXSwEsUNci_ZExQve-gHrJD4CUpw6kCx9ebjnlj5pbUco0k_nWu_a92SAVgi4bFQ1z-PKjTwPJxXquneyBZEEMpGQ/s320/20230713_150554.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCzR1hs-YUuzXyTsw4ue5v45QHhIr8InOg_RR7_NYYqp9Wl1QhkxW6lAdT61jYSBWxOjRW3A1HJiXZf7s88_-pQSCZnp8jVcCFq7qrKh9nxJhUzWN057wJ0xl8SnB0OxDI7R3crecubJxo22dQr71kxcwsKus3qZeJM_yijC8QM3wkLGM3dtyP_lhHVc/s1209/20230713_151943.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuCzR1hs-YUuzXyTsw4ue5v45QHhIr8InOg_RR7_NYYqp9Wl1QhkxW6lAdT61jYSBWxOjRW3A1HJiXZf7s88_-pQSCZnp8jVcCFq7qrKh9nxJhUzWN057wJ0xl8SnB0OxDI7R3crecubJxo22dQr71kxcwsKus3qZeJM_yijC8QM3wkLGM3dtyP_lhHVc/s320/20230713_151943.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Riarsi e completamente bolliti dalla calura, raggiungiamo finalmente El Aguacatal, unico pueblo con strutture raggiungibile in una giornata in sella. Sorge sul Rio Chumpan, e sta a un paio di kilometri dal confine con il Tabasco. In questo nuovo stato noi transiteremo domani per breve tratto, prima di entrare in Chiapas. Google sostiene ci siano due hospedajes, ma a primo impatto non si direbbe. Pare il classico villaggio scalcagnato, con i cani randagi, la polvere e lo stradone che lo attraversa. Prima ancora ci addentrarci nelle viuzze sterrate, ci fermiamo a prender dell'acqua: siamo secchi come le brugne Sunsweet, una roba devastante, un'arsura apocalittica. In tutto ciò, attiriamo la curiosità dell'intero pueblo, che mica è grande. Soprattutto quando ci vedono arrancare verso l'interno del paese, tra buche e mucchi di sabbia e calcinacci.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9u1wsSfS_j-XWBt0RGwHRjJn4FQ8dCDs1UWNly8kMV5S5aw_G6JCyH6T-_qfoTi_MTBPzKQyxsy5JgmcvztvwYh5d4i3oLHVJfJBrcDmTgOGGA6Ab9QtsqluElLjbHb1VH425-JASmWEwSac8iPoW0y6ERyqSFr2csPQ6WbjBG2ZHCcajI-uuUjXMYKY/s1209/20230713_161323.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9u1wsSfS_j-XWBt0RGwHRjJn4FQ8dCDs1UWNly8kMV5S5aw_G6JCyH6T-_qfoTi_MTBPzKQyxsy5JgmcvztvwYh5d4i3oLHVJfJBrcDmTgOGGA6Ab9QtsqluElLjbHb1VH425-JASmWEwSac8iPoW0y6ERyqSFr2csPQ6WbjBG2ZHCcajI-uuUjXMYKY/s320/20230713_161323.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC7v9uEC3jW-Gk5w2X93cZq1gB_1LRW34omeMkqqBgir7JDGPVD9MxNfDUmbcVRpdXat2diUpm_NLIa6_0wmZ69Gk0i8l3lYGopLsnOnDDcpdMBXegp0eHexoiMJFAvlQabUxZn-rjl661AHmv-dfcgPclPrY9rOU4jYNd-aypc3x3NqB3Xuj1EkyChl0/s1209/20230713_161334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC7v9uEC3jW-Gk5w2X93cZq1gB_1LRW34omeMkqqBgir7JDGPVD9MxNfDUmbcVRpdXat2diUpm_NLIa6_0wmZ69Gk0i8l3lYGopLsnOnDDcpdMBXegp0eHexoiMJFAvlQabUxZn-rjl661AHmv-dfcgPclPrY9rOU4jYNd-aypc3x3NqB3Xuj1EkyChl0/s320/20230713_161334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gli hotel sono due, uno a 20 metri dall'altro, recensiti uno male, l'altro peggio. Lascio scegliere a Gigi, che punta a quello dalla facciata più decorosa. Dopo un po' di attesa, ci dicono che non hanno camere. Ahia! Il 50% delle possibilità ci si brucia sul colpo. Sarà la sera che inauguriamo la tenda? Andiamo al secondo, che ha un portonaccio di lamiera tenuto su da assi di legno appoggiate, e, quando già stiamo perdendo le speranze, un anziano ci scruta dallo spioncino e si affretta ad aprirci: Pase, pase, adelante! Quindi ci lascia alle cure della moglie, che vuole sapere tutto di noi, del viaggio, delle bici, e ci guarda tra il preoccupato e il meravigliato, come farebbe una nonna, stringendosi nello scialle (ma signora! Ci sono duemila gradi!). Ovviamente tutto senza lasciarci neanche entrare in stanza a respirare. Poi la paghiamo e, cambiando tono di voce, mi guarda di sottecchi e commenta: sai che potere ha il denaro? E se ne va, così, con le sue sciavattine e lo scialle.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKh7LI3JJN1yIBmlkGmjgNw2Bme1xgpihABf8AWaG60Fnakn-vJixuCERhD5LLaCrRcy_yxMJqvYjwkMT33Sf_a6_TRCmgGlWPfDCJ2PHjU4unERb58pCdksxKADd82WkFIVB5fXca4Ugw04ld-aYTiuoaBEmAx5dalqgNBeJ-qs3plCef2WNcU0Qqfc/s1209/20230713_182325.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKh7LI3JJN1yIBmlkGmjgNw2Bme1xgpihABf8AWaG60Fnakn-vJixuCERhD5LLaCrRcy_yxMJqvYjwkMT33Sf_a6_TRCmgGlWPfDCJ2PHjU4unERb58pCdksxKADd82WkFIVB5fXca4Ugw04ld-aYTiuoaBEmAx5dalqgNBeJ-qs3plCef2WNcU0Qqfc/s320/20230713_182325.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlGYAmSAzFXHO7iqI5rpUPbMNx7toXMnlU8NASS3RoTzVQ_FnQKfny_vSB4lsweAmjzfxXNf_LnlFJL2IhsGsID6zrF7BTbm6BqiOd2kDM_-c0armK0UdKCijtbH13niOGAdBtOqpWUez8PFr1iH4xlyrh2CTnyGkoWNWMr8_cNbOvta-wIcu1Po7ioas/s1209/20230713_182328.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlGYAmSAzFXHO7iqI5rpUPbMNx7toXMnlU8NASS3RoTzVQ_FnQKfny_vSB4lsweAmjzfxXNf_LnlFJL2IhsGsID6zrF7BTbm6BqiOd2kDM_-c0armK0UdKCijtbH13niOGAdBtOqpWUez8PFr1iH4xlyrh2CTnyGkoWNWMr8_cNbOvta-wIcu1Po7ioas/s320/20230713_182328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fVsTRnsrVP7ezsomXISx1h0zpVQb3H_j5cLL6YGITjh6QvpNlCW-HilzFyLmNAWUTXcdY0-UiVLdG2RHSwFP0-Cj5PpQ_mZxHKESE4a_2RJ8uwCAgbuLvI1ipGFHYLWwvrbnb8Xc4z8bGynqIuS_PRAoCV6wH8EeOWc_4A6g32oec6zC_mY8tAAAZv0/s1209/20230713_182407.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1fVsTRnsrVP7ezsomXISx1h0zpVQb3H_j5cLL6YGITjh6QvpNlCW-HilzFyLmNAWUTXcdY0-UiVLdG2RHSwFP0-Cj5PpQ_mZxHKESE4a_2RJ8uwCAgbuLvI1ipGFHYLWwvrbnb8Xc4z8bGynqIuS_PRAoCV6wH8EeOWc_4A6g32oec6zC_mY8tAAAZv0/s320/20230713_182407.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gigi ha ancora un po' di febbre; probabilmente, a questo punto, si tratta del raffreddore con tosse che si sta trascinando da qualche giorno. Tuttavia è abbastanza in forze e oggi mi accompagna in paese a caccia della cena. Ci sono dei ristorantini, ma non abbiamo voglia di mangiare affacciati allo stradone, tra gas di scarico dei camion e polvere. Quindi facciamo spesa nelle botteghine e in una fornitissima frutteria e ceniamo in camera. Qualche scatto di El Aguacatal sul far del tramonto:</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSCn54X1UwZm6S1T4IJyba6ZLGtm50xOgqxd0rOTx5CDQifyg0cDc4Wov2lNByUAI3v29581yjdAuDgBwkfrgWxBquwFHPkAy5APOvVNHH87w0j5gG92Nk3rhLuBR3855UEKtvcy-wSrc7wNBySwlsk1bC49IF_A-_yYcn9kS6PUrnTxQK7ZEtq3bFfas/s1209/20230713_182454.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSCn54X1UwZm6S1T4IJyba6ZLGtm50xOgqxd0rOTx5CDQifyg0cDc4Wov2lNByUAI3v29581yjdAuDgBwkfrgWxBquwFHPkAy5APOvVNHH87w0j5gG92Nk3rhLuBR3855UEKtvcy-wSrc7wNBySwlsk1bC49IF_A-_yYcn9kS6PUrnTxQK7ZEtq3bFfas/s320/20230713_182454.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-Jqz6qLzW6MF3VswnZdi-8NxZtbMnQ34L_YTToMtANRmWLizMb-NOBkeLIfNIbNiUyNpInBdYwllUkKCiTXFlVkMkXgFiNQitZ5gVDtgUR3in-MAgAKyqgr2vOtedLkxPwdl10i3s6LrhgRIPoCOEwzvjoA7goRABEs4xCk3-nuZA7lyAUz-k3czH4k/s1209/20230713_182500.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-Jqz6qLzW6MF3VswnZdi-8NxZtbMnQ34L_YTToMtANRmWLizMb-NOBkeLIfNIbNiUyNpInBdYwllUkKCiTXFlVkMkXgFiNQitZ5gVDtgUR3in-MAgAKyqgr2vOtedLkxPwdl10i3s6LrhgRIPoCOEwzvjoA7goRABEs4xCk3-nuZA7lyAUz-k3czH4k/s320/20230713_182500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwSJoHlbD1hvw6hEHszmE7iHibpULcV7b696nM5oveC3VEQZw01jsVYrMfgi3zYqXlGjQz5b1S3boUGRa9bBXmMl5ibhVqInsvRPaHuBp_-jSNa9-BXngvLDzC71ILE3Gz0F2GKuMB27nMaKuOxPZx9UZbCqgY49pLhBzxLUPgB-Y5ke2kNQZOpJt8Gk/s1209/20230713_182531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwSJoHlbD1hvw6hEHszmE7iHibpULcV7b696nM5oveC3VEQZw01jsVYrMfgi3zYqXlGjQz5b1S3boUGRa9bBXmMl5ibhVqInsvRPaHuBp_-jSNa9-BXngvLDzC71ILE3Gz0F2GKuMB27nMaKuOxPZx9UZbCqgY49pLhBzxLUPgB-Y5ke2kNQZOpJt8Gk/s320/20230713_182531.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzzDkTgKGI4lL8d9oDhpeh5MdhN2ffS_cQHDjts39YqK_0q_GVl2C5rNJZWO1wTtEgwbp1vgi2KawrkrpHIIsbyadrmqyLpUkc0mwm_mD1lu3wOVxk9fi9FosWJlcTG39HBJxPo6nEv6Srop2csqAq1DGPNjRqwyr9AvY5fUDCIHat46kVy80G6WbpnA/s1209/20230713_182543.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzzDkTgKGI4lL8d9oDhpeh5MdhN2ffS_cQHDjts39YqK_0q_GVl2C5rNJZWO1wTtEgwbp1vgi2KawrkrpHIIsbyadrmqyLpUkc0mwm_mD1lu3wOVxk9fi9FosWJlcTG39HBJxPo6nEv6Srop2csqAq1DGPNjRqwyr9AvY5fUDCIHat46kVy80G6WbpnA/s320/20230713_182543.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tacchino albino cattivissimo da guardia che, un minuto dopo, ha fatto scappare il cane randagio e me</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEvI2z8W3DzntdHE1gyBmA7E6chEEy2IUMbOTVYGiOIEIcLv7pd74Sco_VaJE3TJxdN79CLWwaoeurTIwVG9o9-SAHPtB7URjgSD9SDwekDY0R47TfIUDVBDB63J879inm2BL0FSGmBdNW-cI8VfvuYeioCGNaGWwZ_Yoo9oXDQYeL7msBoMtj4BGtHLE/s1209/20230713_182657.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEvI2z8W3DzntdHE1gyBmA7E6chEEy2IUMbOTVYGiOIEIcLv7pd74Sco_VaJE3TJxdN79CLWwaoeurTIwVG9o9-SAHPtB7URjgSD9SDwekDY0R47TfIUDVBDB63J879inm2BL0FSGmBdNW-cI8VfvuYeioCGNaGWwZ_Yoo9oXDQYeL7msBoMtj4BGtHLE/s320/20230713_182657.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">acquedotto</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-ZXY7aGiyCr2ZulfhB0S2s4mUVafYVKcGn4jvLaz1Tl4RGf9YwhngJIeWjMdy3E5eElAd-phKdCCKllwMAEgRi0AFJAJyrd4z4W5XGP7ebNsx2eHANuaccgT6625u0mMU8nHvwGVYuJeL0hZGKnzXslouMEX59JLvTOc324sGkT42JzNHs9qGFeRJOI/s1209/20230713_183033.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-ZXY7aGiyCr2ZulfhB0S2s4mUVafYVKcGn4jvLaz1Tl4RGf9YwhngJIeWjMdy3E5eElAd-phKdCCKllwMAEgRi0AFJAJyrd4z4W5XGP7ebNsx2eHANuaccgT6625u0mMU8nHvwGVYuJeL0hZGKnzXslouMEX59JLvTOc324sGkT42JzNHs9qGFeRJOI/s320/20230713_183033.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chiesa</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQhQgV3Pn-xuWbOr9-XEwqtK1YviCPW_MzbhTjc2POXoRv09XXafUWgkoiRCVlq-grbcML0CKXgwJEvgXN3IC7hRoUtc-I0FUnJcBEf6e-l5_jHotPPDHF68F_Jkv39iuKQuroEgurYIF6y_aK3TuRtCV9g0AZp-T275Ixr62f7O8quOQkvPglGhBs2Q/s1209/20230713_183119.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQhQgV3Pn-xuWbOr9-XEwqtK1YviCPW_MzbhTjc2POXoRv09XXafUWgkoiRCVlq-grbcML0CKXgwJEvgXN3IC7hRoUtc-I0FUnJcBEf6e-l5_jHotPPDHF68F_Jkv39iuKQuroEgurYIF6y_aK3TuRtCV9g0AZp-T275Ixr62f7O8quOQkvPglGhBs2Q/s320/20230713_183119.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">negozio di farmacia e telefonia (qui tutti con grate)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihy-_3mmN6MfkLvGc6TpS8gmvMs5Owbp7EuMlJMVFBkcgkAeDgtK1AnaBqAvZ54IPmiQEGf1vdtUR4Ld-sAAhduIE2JPzwaopseRa0OengeVlpQUrV-QiiF8b59UUUFiTzo_ABWD1Q-yjEre_zmoaB_XNlRTEOWdcgUUsbEDhZeBOtxwmWEyO9QSst038/s1209/20230713_183134.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihy-_3mmN6MfkLvGc6TpS8gmvMs5Owbp7EuMlJMVFBkcgkAeDgtK1AnaBqAvZ54IPmiQEGf1vdtUR4Ld-sAAhduIE2JPzwaopseRa0OengeVlpQUrV-QiiF8b59UUUFiTzo_ABWD1Q-yjEre_zmoaB_XNlRTEOWdcgUUsbEDhZeBOtxwmWEyO9QSst038/s320/20230713_183134.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">al cui interno ci sono rimedi alternativi se i farmaci non funzionano o la connessione manca</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1t1S-JMpk0eYV2j4Z-Exy8RpEQqOUoBbQRx23BlbnyI-7l7gZppSvAIZsdd71ph8NXgUMU5BKy7E5FTfuAHB5dhIxl47coskpNc3DMc-7qxxUTFKa02x1Ic5EFRtHO3s9F-3gG_Naq6brIgpY5HZIjgbGmycTj-Cg9zBVFNd5uE-e_AyyDbzpTj_fug/s1209/20230713_184217.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1t1S-JMpk0eYV2j4Z-Exy8RpEQqOUoBbQRx23BlbnyI-7l7gZppSvAIZsdd71ph8NXgUMU5BKy7E5FTfuAHB5dhIxl47coskpNc3DMc-7qxxUTFKa02x1Ic5EFRtHO3s9F-3gG_Naq6brIgpY5HZIjgbGmycTj-Cg9zBVFNd5uE-e_AyyDbzpTj_fug/s320/20230713_184217.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Concludo con una chicca: dopo il grande successo dell'InkaCola peruviana, quest'anno assaggiamo la Chiva Cola, ovvero la competitor messicana del brand a stelle e strisce che qui ha colonizzato assai. Viene venduta come bevanda a base di ingredienti naturali, senza zuccheri, edulcorata con stevia e il mai sentito prima frto del monje, frutto del monaco, a quanto pare una cucurbitacea originaria della Cina che dà sensazione di dolcezza 250 volte più del saccarosio. Insomma, è buona questa Chiva Cola? Sì! Anche se qui c'è solo da scegliere tra le bevande, tra orzate alla cannella, acqua al tamarindo e alla guava, di cocco...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7GY5EwSzUBigzlD-oTLGrWxyCsE8eG7P7t6sNo9spnQbMLgaHTK-JXYTlS7_TI9CB1xzJbpL_qwqYkcaXgCU_KHUyVCv_TQXl6uk44Pm2_gIIU-njxQX9morYr5BeXqYxvPLTRMecE3OMgvMFFDQhV5_xK2HSdUJgnZgZaoUMFSzxnoPoDSunHXiMT0/s1209/20230713_190206.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7GY5EwSzUBigzlD-oTLGrWxyCsE8eG7P7t6sNo9spnQbMLgaHTK-JXYTlS7_TI9CB1xzJbpL_qwqYkcaXgCU_KHUyVCv_TQXl6uk44Pm2_gIIU-njxQX9morYr5BeXqYxvPLTRMecE3OMgvMFFDQhV5_xK2HSdUJgnZgZaoUMFSzxnoPoDSunHXiMT0/s320/20230713_190206.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Finita la cena, il paese cade nell'oscurità per un black out. A quanto pare succede di continuo, tutti i giorni. Ce lo spiega la signora, con la quale ci ritroviamo seduti in cortile a cercare un po' di frescura, perchè in camera, senza ventilatore accesso, si scoppia di caldo. Quindi non è solo il megacantiere del Tren maya... Qui l'elettricità c'è e non c'è, e riguarda interi villaggi. poco male, noi siamo autonomi con i powerbank... Lo stesso non possono dire le persone che qui lavorano e vivono, però.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo un paio d'ore la luce torna, e ci ritiriamo in camera (anche perchè le zanzare, fuori, con l'Autan si profumano le loro sei piccole ascelle).</div><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Domani arriveremo a Palenque, finalmente, con una tappa da cica 110km e un piccolo taglio nelle campagne che mi preoccupa vagamente. Sul Chiapas da giorni mi informo, chiedendo alla gente e cercando online, e son tutte brutte storie, fuori dalla bellezza dei soliti luoghi noti turistici! In ogni caso abbiamo preso una decisione, per me sofferta, ma praticamente inevitabile: tra Palenque e San Cristobal de las Casas penderemo un autobus. Sono solo 240km, ma quelle valli montane pare nascondano davvero troppe insidie. Fossero solo i "pedaggi" da pagare ai bandidos, spesso gruppi di decine di ragazzini dal volto coperto e armati di bastoni, non avrei problemi. Ma qui qualcuno ci ha lasciato le penne... Nel 2018 due cicloturisti sono stati trovati morti, ammazzati e buttati come immondizia nei valloni. Uno pure decapitato. Sicuramente sono casi isolati, la gente è tranquilla e nella stragrande maggioranza dei casi non succede niente di male. Ma. Per intenderci, nemmeno gli autobus fanno questo tratto di strada. Non passano per Ocosingo, ma allungano via Villahermosa, con una corsa che dura dalle 9 alle 13 ore, perchè quei maledetti 240km sono troppo rischiosi anche per i mezzi pubblici di linea. Oltretutto, se fossi sola, saprei con un buon grado di certezza quanto ci impiego a scalare quelle montagne, in modo da evitare assolutamente di essere in strada con il buio. Ma non sono sola, per fortuna. E devo tenere conto che i tempi di Gigi non sono i miei, le paure e le reazioni di Gigi non sono le mie. Lui si fida di me ciecamente, e io non voglio portarlo a vivere momenti di tensione, o di pericolo. Ergo, riassumendo: domani arriviamo a Palenque. Dopodomani, al mattino, visitiamo l'imponente sito archeologico e la sera prendiamo un notturno che ci porta, per la via lunga, impiegandoci tutta la notte, a San Cristobal. Dovremo stare attenti ai furti sul bus, che pare siano prassi comune. Ma almeno non rischiamo di essere decapitati con un colpo secco di machete. Un buon programma, per il futuro a breve termine, no?</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">14/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">El Aguacatal-Palenque</div><div style="text-align: left;">112km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Giornata intensa, bella di luoghi e d'incontri, faticosa, di quelle che appena arrivi a stender la schiena, a tappa finita, prima di cambiarsi, prima di cenare, colli in un sonno immediato e pieno di sogni. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Siamo in Chiapas, finalmente. Il famoso e famigerato Chiapas. E per arrivarci abbiamo lasciato il magico Campeche alle spalle, e attraversato una minuscola fettina di Tabasco, nome così evocativo da risultare piccante sulla lingua e sulle labbra anche solo a pronunciarlo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Stamattina la sveglia è stata ben prima dell'alba, e non richiesta. La signora ha iniziato a trafficare in cortile, a bagnare le piante, a berciare contro il marito che era ancora buio.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi ha dormito con il ventilatore in faccia ed è abbastanza conciato di raffreddore, ma a questo punto penso abbia deciso di conviverci, in cambio della frescura notturna.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Pian piano ci mettiamo in moto, facciamo colazione con gli avanzi della spesa di ieri sera, facciamo la conta dei gechi che stanotte, durante il blackout, hanno invaso la stanza e, dopo la solita spalmata di crema solare, partiamo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Un filo di tensione nell'aria c'è. Del Chiapas abbiamo letto e sentito molte brutte storie, e ora che ci stiamo entrando il velo dell'inquietudine adombra un poco l'entusiasmo. Ma l'aria chiara e ancora fresca ci rasserena il cuore, e iniziamo a pedalare. Dopo le stradine sterrate del pueblo, riprendiamo la statale per Villahermosa, e attraversiamo il ponte sul Chumpan. E' zona di fiumi, laghi, pozze d'acqua e paludi, questa. Ne vedremo tantissimi, quasi un filo unico d'acqua più o meno stagnante, più o meno azzurra.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5f1Tgv5R61zfGndzU92bVGTCq6h6xV28riP3yduoJcZTXpW7tPPkuOOJBXqZKPSJ4lf-Up6lPiwO4_7wqAdp5_tyZnz9gtNGJpemlIGin3yc5wiCQHSoFM9Tuw6mHMDHM2clCdI-TQnQ94_aGg4IOPdcWG2rOLQgie2DWcnkZQY2e7KcP1PGV5Z8nxc/s1209/20230714_082942.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5f1Tgv5R61zfGndzU92bVGTCq6h6xV28riP3yduoJcZTXpW7tPPkuOOJBXqZKPSJ4lf-Up6lPiwO4_7wqAdp5_tyZnz9gtNGJpemlIGin3yc5wiCQHSoFM9Tuw6mHMDHM2clCdI-TQnQ94_aGg4IOPdcWG2rOLQgie2DWcnkZQY2e7KcP1PGV5Z8nxc/s320/20230714_082942.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQqdV27n9MrEm5O-3xzn6RFP8CogE5so2b6gYwGalzXYiSRBR7vHuJ_OP2zJ0ZBZr5Orcvd1wrEh0nTH4Jq8Ag-BJUtSpZqR3-4nevArTWqbbzfQWqh7mtnmYudfwwD47yrOfyhyr1Ggj3zSIDs_mXvmXja637xPqfxPUa1rhrr0iExF3-HiPNkKxDS0/s1209/20230714_083627.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQqdV27n9MrEm5O-3xzn6RFP8CogE5so2b6gYwGalzXYiSRBR7vHuJ_OP2zJ0ZBZr5Orcvd1wrEh0nTH4Jq8Ag-BJUtSpZqR3-4nevArTWqbbzfQWqh7mtnmYudfwwD47yrOfyhyr1Ggj3zSIDs_mXvmXja637xPqfxPUa1rhrr0iExF3-HiPNkKxDS0/s320/20230714_083627.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">albero su cui sono appollaiati tantissimi avvoltoi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Le prime decine di kilometri assomigliano molto alle ultime di ieri: nessun pueblo, un numero spropositato di ranchos, di tutte le dimensioni, alcuni tenuti meglio e più curati, altre decrepiti, altri proprio abbandonati. Ci sono mucche e cavalli, mentre il cielo è ricamato dal volo largo degli avvoltoi e negli stagni si stagliano aironi candidi, immobili come statue di marmo. Sono uguali a quelli che vedo in ogni giro in bici dalle mie parti. Purtroppo schiacciati dalle auto ci sono opossum, coati, armadilli, serpenti, iguane e rospi enormi che paion palloni. E cani e cavalli; in concomitanza di questi ultimi, solitamente, si vedono anche pezzi di auto e vetri rotti e lamiere, perchè l'equino ha la peggio, ma ti lascia un bel segno. L'odore di carogna, dolciastro, nauseabondo, è piuttosto diffuso. Penso, come mi è già capitato, quanto poco si sottolinei, nello studio della storia, il fattore olfattivo. La puzza. Immaginatevi cosa dovesse essere un campo di battaglia, all'indomani dello scontro, con migliaia o decine di migliaia di corpi putrescenti, sì scempiati da cani e uccelli, come dice Omero, ma soprattutto puzzolenti! Inimmaginabile. Tanto per stare su pensieri allegri, mi restano impresse le immagini dei crani di questi animali morti investiti, ancora un po' coperti di pelle e pelliccia, ma che si stanno ritirando e decomponendo, metre l'osso e la dentatura iniziano a spuntare. Un mementomo di quelli potenti.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk615v0TWtslWEZubjL4JUWF9Ek8hC71wJqsSckF3hzYuI4q1ZGPFz1msdtrNhhAS6z823Ea3PWGNCZWImIqw9ZqjXIKlOdESgjzt-jc--Fbtnye7lD-jOvMNCtEXs7OiupeBpACkF2ejJY7hW_Z8etRYCZkE4UVtCutcvohQe194smtS9v240R6Zy93g/s1209/20230714_083635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk615v0TWtslWEZubjL4JUWF9Ek8hC71wJqsSckF3hzYuI4q1ZGPFz1msdtrNhhAS6z823Ea3PWGNCZWImIqw9ZqjXIKlOdESgjzt-jc--Fbtnye7lD-jOvMNCtEXs7OiupeBpACkF2ejJY7hW_Z8etRYCZkE4UVtCutcvohQe194smtS9v240R6Zy93g/s320/20230714_083635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCum0xwjZubqfT_f1AJDzuXydXhfk5nzj8FDk9InIjVRTOXF-xAhkPCxBQzxzGwJwWWzAZjgaLBK4Jn1u3r2_Z_fC5esqBF3p_O192K8do3iubNggJxvTJz5TGwti-x5b17x8ZhDdOVgUyIcrg2kCcRcS7MonXr7O206Y8PJcKFDvoLzlgHJGF7VxqWq0/s1209/20230714_091118.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCum0xwjZubqfT_f1AJDzuXydXhfk5nzj8FDk9InIjVRTOXF-xAhkPCxBQzxzGwJwWWzAZjgaLBK4Jn1u3r2_Z_fC5esqBF3p_O192K8do3iubNggJxvTJz5TGwti-x5b17x8ZhDdOVgUyIcrg2kCcRcS7MonXr7O206Y8PJcKFDvoLzlgHJGF7VxqWq0/s320/20230714_091118.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ccBg0VJjVNr_ANlgnltwEz3A27FHLTqSEcj-B2SmYWGgmBD1V2Gj9hCfpYznViMwgZ2su0QcrPazuj93fQgkd6Cvz7TRLbGStkMB8cwhFYqef2b2Zb2H28BQGS7JdTcfc9apcC1wJmb5mrln3j2O_ZV0raj1BEs_jMGpoO64Lg5-VUknd3YyDLV0Llo/s1209/20230714_091139.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ccBg0VJjVNr_ANlgnltwEz3A27FHLTqSEcj-B2SmYWGgmBD1V2Gj9hCfpYznViMwgZ2su0QcrPazuj93fQgkd6Cvz7TRLbGStkMB8cwhFYqef2b2Zb2H28BQGS7JdTcfc9apcC1wJmb5mrln3j2O_ZV0raj1BEs_jMGpoO64Lg5-VUknd3YyDLV0Llo/s320/20230714_091139.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Uq8BZBJVxA3ScURuCCYPavO6ZSbBi4YyqPfGyjHYnDcLLus-Hq2gXh-sFbXevLhbC4cSAV__JWY_v2Nr9-Cn5f_fPsjFmjFESkqCUU-pb5qDmVU8hSYbs5y1dmXyUlBjOCon-FX3NplfbuMQaJCxEvMezY62uHRDXk2Wbbjv2tcJF-tCv41mvc6luc4/s1209/20230714_095746.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Uq8BZBJVxA3ScURuCCYPavO6ZSbBi4YyqPfGyjHYnDcLLus-Hq2gXh-sFbXevLhbC4cSAV__JWY_v2Nr9-Cn5f_fPsjFmjFESkqCUU-pb5qDmVU8hSYbs5y1dmXyUlBjOCon-FX3NplfbuMQaJCxEvMezY62uHRDXk2Wbbjv2tcJF-tCv41mvc6luc4/s320/20230714_095746.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Procediamo, un po' arrancando a causa del vento avverso, tra zone alberate e altre tenute a pascolo. I primi 40km scivolano via così e, quando inizia a fare caldo, ci fermiamo nell'ultimo pueblo del Campeche, Oxcan, assetati e riarsi alla ricerca di acqua. La troviamo presso una sorta di ristorante, che ha anche l'officina meccanica a lato, e una ventina di mezzi pesanti parcheggiati davanti, alcuni in riparazione, altri in sosta seconda colazione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N8eEENbYScCWzPKdIpaWJcpPOU1Los1869400kThfdEI0ZWcZALMoggdLCL2SjshmnisHHvSpMFlDymxVVPxEGJjHBQmyRo1DfTJ-cgG9CzWOc-K29Iq-mt7fP6Y2pfzofd6hdiHVvbCV-837MDdi8P98dhB4EDOTx2eZN1JeLJLGm61ROZPj8c9Hxs/s1209/20230714_102334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N8eEENbYScCWzPKdIpaWJcpPOU1Los1869400kThfdEI0ZWcZALMoggdLCL2SjshmnisHHvSpMFlDymxVVPxEGJjHBQmyRo1DfTJ-cgG9CzWOc-K29Iq-mt7fP6Y2pfzofd6hdiHVvbCV-837MDdi8P98dhB4EDOTx2eZN1JeLJLGm61ROZPj8c9Hxs/s320/20230714_102334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGv7T1Unz4GFJJFfmHY6PRk3Lm1Je3HbCCn7uUH7sO3XYVm-p8x5FEyGL6Gzdj67GMce2VSO1ZyFLlE8Qv4TskfVnlNYZCw33tbrD5SK8EMxCCLm4O76E2gxW7cdiYRtsTWhE-nz1HafbGs6cweFFxZCYPogsxpM0pgEnZVvi8f7Bsh4a5fpDKYrL0zLw/s1209/20230714_104853.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGv7T1Unz4GFJJFfmHY6PRk3Lm1Je3HbCCn7uUH7sO3XYVm-p8x5FEyGL6Gzdj67GMce2VSO1ZyFLlE8Qv4TskfVnlNYZCw33tbrD5SK8EMxCCLm4O76E2gxW7cdiYRtsTWhE-nz1HafbGs6cweFFxZCYPogsxpM0pgEnZVvi8f7Bsh4a5fpDKYrL0zLw/s320/20230714_104853.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPWrKt_onbmREPFBu39puzI5ib8G38hZnT20V3mH5BOGgUEnzCj-q9yNSBF5mapMRGQcVuGRm4W3W10CYmQGzSxRw7hVzdWMmiQchLEWIaGXBJRLwYfHCexcxURkdmvq-yhpVg5FRAosdRJSnNIpozOnSzrvXsqpvAhexA6VMR2GX8w9CtAeJy4D97Omk/s979/20230714_104911.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPWrKt_onbmREPFBu39puzI5ib8G38hZnT20V3mH5BOGgUEnzCj-q9yNSBF5mapMRGQcVuGRm4W3W10CYmQGzSxRw7hVzdWMmiQchLEWIaGXBJRLwYfHCexcxURkdmvq-yhpVg5FRAosdRJSnNIpozOnSzrvXsqpvAhexA6VMR2GX8w9CtAeJy4D97Omk/s320/20230714_104911.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnv-VEqpvceMoYeb8ZCjS9dq8teoejApIP-_W64OSceCb8FmR16RYjQLUIjGSIXxmEdtv0Z18Dw8rCWBjRsiJjfKbQFka7UNzhQmBCktE1KxzXQyLwF6bDE8bFzgOPWr7Tm5f3pcR0xnHOTl3Flqx7JS9ypz423huF-IpycPmrtKR1az0MEt0rBH6EMc/s1209/20230714_104926.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnv-VEqpvceMoYeb8ZCjS9dq8teoejApIP-_W64OSceCb8FmR16RYjQLUIjGSIXxmEdtv0Z18Dw8rCWBjRsiJjfKbQFka7UNzhQmBCktE1KxzXQyLwF6bDE8bFzgOPWr7Tm5f3pcR0xnHOTl3Flqx7JS9ypz423huF-IpycPmrtKR1az0MEt0rBH6EMc/s320/20230714_104926.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3WQpPsWpdQab9ADPDpMA03SWIEx4uy-IsXcxo18T7sWhTfZxIM1S-kQPXkyL3JcQs5G9MkQT34Wr-Mz4ZsLmaN8dgytbY7BQqhXfFgod7yyfQZukujfJ_dzkO3uJsL5_e_C-q_IUpVOLnbKmTTT4PE3h5yZ8Jpx7H5TpLDi6sEhYxeRyOlc-9LDx6bcI/s1209/20230714_104957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3WQpPsWpdQab9ADPDpMA03SWIEx4uy-IsXcxo18T7sWhTfZxIM1S-kQPXkyL3JcQs5G9MkQT34Wr-Mz4ZsLmaN8dgytbY7BQqhXfFgod7yyfQZukujfJ_dzkO3uJsL5_e_C-q_IUpVOLnbKmTTT4PE3h5yZ8Jpx7H5TpLDi6sEhYxeRyOlc-9LDx6bcI/s320/20230714_104957.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cKLW_7oUAY-R-hKev-t3101M2uPLY5boSeuiyDkheTWpObLiWAvfxNgg3QUfRy0VDvXmlUIWkjc0yxb5hzd3wqBrEAeVWdAeCEKNDPc-safX5oLPD8-tpUJU2Caj1Vx6tKoHpOU_bon1EZjCfL3mvBUHyJnP7EmVHc4gBRfybyTtm5PVk7HMsgUadM4/s1209/20230714_105344.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cKLW_7oUAY-R-hKev-t3101M2uPLY5boSeuiyDkheTWpObLiWAvfxNgg3QUfRy0VDvXmlUIWkjc0yxb5hzd3wqBrEAeVWdAeCEKNDPc-safX5oLPD8-tpUJU2Caj1Vx6tKoHpOU_bon1EZjCfL3mvBUHyJnP7EmVHc4gBRfybyTtm5PVk7HMsgUadM4/s320/20230714_105344.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMf-0R_P02nd5uJSusHM6fz8j3DpdJEWcTnw_FO1W9A9qZ3If6hj9dGPMl3JLmsUrpDK1WknX4FefsTDMW656Y0A6AAKg1eYI1VhGua2ifHgsoXtWM7c3CboOkMujgpw7KKPXuQE3xk0AGUmGD1xbXhAz7iVBpTgZgKxLAlT4shA-Z5eV1a5oMnTFKXEc/s1209/20230714_105403.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMf-0R_P02nd5uJSusHM6fz8j3DpdJEWcTnw_FO1W9A9qZ3If6hj9dGPMl3JLmsUrpDK1WknX4FefsTDMW656Y0A6AAKg1eYI1VhGua2ifHgsoXtWM7c3CboOkMujgpw7KKPXuQE3xk0AGUmGD1xbXhAz7iVBpTgZgKxLAlT4shA-Z5eV1a5oMnTFKXEc/s320/20230714_105403.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpTjK-g6lsJaT25ZvpxYQYDL6NYHbnZWjovEpx6nm-wkxWM0K1rY9NXlkQ17-tUNiGasKr7Xi-JHTIm_EFjOlDEjz0MAPHhw1A-AC6dZsA6yIBt7FOYN52fbzTqsmxqFWVkp5v74jTSZDq9PVEgRNNZQDprm8zUBt53PLKaf4eR_3sHXBn2-65uAmk2tE/s1209/20230714_105514.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpTjK-g6lsJaT25ZvpxYQYDL6NYHbnZWjovEpx6nm-wkxWM0K1rY9NXlkQ17-tUNiGasKr7Xi-JHTIm_EFjOlDEjz0MAPHhw1A-AC6dZsA6yIBt7FOYN52fbzTqsmxqFWVkp5v74jTSZDq9PVEgRNNZQDprm8zUBt53PLKaf4eR_3sHXBn2-65uAmk2tE/s320/20230714_105514.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una manciata di metri, un posto di blocco con controlli per veicoli e animali, dove noi passiamo sotto lo sguardo di una guardia annoiata e... Arrivederci Campeche! Siamo in Tabasco.</div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqQLVRg8tf6Y9FTEEGYigNWS8_DKQsXSxKnbZp4X_P97Q-qiBbRupa-m9FTK6Ls1KE4jVlgoO7cLVTPdEa-6JwnKYGTNRW0RLAgWvNxqll-3U0Nkfvo-8lZ4FN96v3LYhXbJmusD8yPVha31y5EHW3i-PCJE4_MRUQ1DTEVc92_AX4xAWiBe7xuDJh2w/s1209/20230714_110115.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqQLVRg8tf6Y9FTEEGYigNWS8_DKQsXSxKnbZp4X_P97Q-qiBbRupa-m9FTK6Ls1KE4jVlgoO7cLVTPdEa-6JwnKYGTNRW0RLAgWvNxqll-3U0Nkfvo-8lZ4FN96v3LYhXbJmusD8yPVha31y5EHW3i-PCJE4_MRUQ1DTEVc92_AX4xAWiBe7xuDJh2w/s320/20230714_110115.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">In questo stato, che mi fa pensare all'unica salsa piccante che sia abbastanza diffusa da noi, rimaniamo invero ben poco. Giusto una decina di kilometri, fino a Chablé, sul rio Usumacinta, che segna il confine con il Chiapas. Quando siamo quasi a questa seconda frontiera, veniamo abbordati da un pickup grigio, polveroso e tutto arrugginito. Lo vedo avvicinarsi dallo specchietto retrovisore, e puntare nella nostra direzione a velocità abbastanza sostenuta. Ci incalza da dietro per qualche attimo. Gigi ed io pensiamo, pur senza nemmeno vederci in viso, la stessa cosa: eccoci qua, sta succedendo. Non siamo ancora entrati in Chiapas e ci stanno già rapinando. Ora ci fa accostare, chi sa se sono armati di pistola o machete, o semplici bastoni. Hanno il volto coperto? Per fortuna abbiamo diviso il contante e anche a svuotare il portafogli son pochi soldi. Mai fare resistenza. Calma, calma... Un colpo di clacson. Istanti interminabili. Poi il veicolo ci si accosta e mi compare davanti un ragazzotto sorridente che mi porge dal finestrino una confezione di croccanti. E quando la afferro al volo, il suo compare alla guida accelera e sgasa via, mentre gli urlo ringraziamenti in varie lingue. Gentili e anche timidoni! Che pezzi di cuore! Vedi a pensa male e patir prevenuto... Il nostro ingresso in Chiapas, anche per un gesto così piccolo, assume tutto un altro sapore. Molto più dolce, miele e arachidi. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00l4VOxrmvuUYPnhU2DVNEP5CH6NeflsaAkTDZoM63UO6U36F8jfxHywFpSyWS5DqVNHuq3JA-84BKopLKf51iy9h8SoXz4ln9GEJ8-usDemff_8M2WQTu5b7M8p6cqJSnbrUGTwAjrI-RZIlX7UHj02-oUl_kJ2--3QDGfU2k0fXCeZ5OKoMwvpiIZU/s1209/20230714_114517.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00l4VOxrmvuUYPnhU2DVNEP5CH6NeflsaAkTDZoM63UO6U36F8jfxHywFpSyWS5DqVNHuq3JA-84BKopLKf51iy9h8SoXz4ln9GEJ8-usDemff_8M2WQTu5b7M8p6cqJSnbrUGTwAjrI-RZIlX7UHj02-oUl_kJ2--3QDGfU2k0fXCeZ5OKoMwvpiIZU/s320/20230714_114517.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Sosta di metà tappa e passiamo il confine. Il fiume segna la linea che divide lo stato più povero del Messico dal resto del paese. Lo stato dove c'è una presenza preponderante di fieri indigeni che hanno mantenuto le loro tradizioni. Lo stato degli zapatisti. Lo stato dove lo Stato fatica a giungere, e l'autorità ha rinunciato in parte ad essere tale. Lo stato dove, per ragioni concrete di sicurezza nè noi in bici nè gli autobus percorrono alcune strade, ancorchè principali, tra grossi centro abitati. I controlli qui sono un po' più attenti e, soprattutto, si paga un pedaggio per transitare sul ponte. La strada non è cuota, ma libre. Però se non vuoi fartela a nuoto devi lasciare l'obolo. Noi siamo esentati, e nemmeno ci vengono chiesti i documenti. Meglio così.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbIi0cuW3cfbkvrpO7C-PEN3Ak-HK_dgBUEweGWaK4RsaHqmChZkymARKA-kPs1G4hHkE0_1u_9sxlJmWSAJhtJgySZ-WlvrpW18ofRE7iY_Wm-sfKir9VbD8-Lx9bg-hWvBQcA6TsNLVabihsmFkOcAFr-WTcJ21jwneR5khKjUxgQOmyczMz0Iwj7hw/s1209/20230714_121932.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbIi0cuW3cfbkvrpO7C-PEN3Ak-HK_dgBUEweGWaK4RsaHqmChZkymARKA-kPs1G4hHkE0_1u_9sxlJmWSAJhtJgySZ-WlvrpW18ofRE7iY_Wm-sfKir9VbD8-Lx9bg-hWvBQcA6TsNLVabihsmFkOcAFr-WTcJ21jwneR5khKjUxgQOmyczMz0Iwj7hw/s320/20230714_121932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I ranchos, in breve, lasciano di nuovo spazio alla selva incolta, alla giungla. Compaiono numerosi cartelli che invitano a prestare attenzione alla fauna selvatica, soprattutto alle scimmie urlatrici. Ci sono anche dei meravigliosi ponti rialzati costruiti apposta per loro, in modo che imparino ad attraversare la strada in modo sicuro. La somiglianza con i ponti pedonali in metallo che ogni paese ha è evidente.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeDHpTtkSh3cF5gFvxe-x6PpTMs-7wblBxsjImXlISb41gJS4rD6DKdqHJ7CKUIQDNYC1gcOdKSiEjrGDO3qKuvQhWjLQnKVMvJzZKUkciNHZ-QyFz-G_VUsaFcSN6T_5A6UqHkQaaxYlRvaM07bD7piHAuvSjaCo1_YYZVj5k7eacH0pxpiSQsRGPqOw/s1209/20230714_123547.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeDHpTtkSh3cF5gFvxe-x6PpTMs-7wblBxsjImXlISb41gJS4rD6DKdqHJ7CKUIQDNYC1gcOdKSiEjrGDO3qKuvQhWjLQnKVMvJzZKUkciNHZ-QyFz-G_VUsaFcSN6T_5A6UqHkQaaxYlRvaM07bD7piHAuvSjaCo1_YYZVj5k7eacH0pxpiSQsRGPqOw/s320/20230714_123547.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0wCC2E7-8AGv_JSsTTjuvl2kM6b_H2iUqfepL6OiGeaVqLclzIvOFQWJltAPhHifNbLoUarD-oUFnheDLZ64jc3UsgFqztp0hzJBWU0GvNPx11ipUhtLxz0FdHkThl3rTC-ctwW-ZA5rV1ptv-aCbepCd8w3oOMu9So7hlImJMo3bO8m9XjBMrjI6Ea4/s1109/20230714_123854.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1109" data-original-width="832" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0wCC2E7-8AGv_JSsTTjuvl2kM6b_H2iUqfepL6OiGeaVqLclzIvOFQWJltAPhHifNbLoUarD-oUFnheDLZ64jc3UsgFqztp0hzJBWU0GvNPx11ipUhtLxz0FdHkThl3rTC-ctwW-ZA5rV1ptv-aCbepCd8w3oOMu9So7hlImJMo3bO8m9XjBMrjI6Ea4/s320/20230714_123854.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQqVNDHQfm9sT5-Fgk-CKdmuUL76jMryGycq85qCrNn2Om3OYN5XoQx04Z5ft8GK8XTDcW9OmEn14Pf--plWX9SYoj_DNzsIIRNJ2ENUNcKozyyPlsTGIa7uJ4zl2RvO2IIiWUbL-t1iD316oUpv-KOiL5n5tZXMgrp-tAuUosj0ZgkZS3_wMC1pkMWM/s1209/20230714_124409.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQqVNDHQfm9sT5-Fgk-CKdmuUL76jMryGycq85qCrNn2Om3OYN5XoQx04Z5ft8GK8XTDcW9OmEn14Pf--plWX9SYoj_DNzsIIRNJ2ENUNcKozyyPlsTGIa7uJ4zl2RvO2IIiWUbL-t1iD316oUpv-KOiL5n5tZXMgrp-tAuUosj0ZgkZS3_wMC1pkMWM/s320/20230714_124409.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJ4Rn3zNOt77pnOON0ILXX86OUHXFc4CGbgMZlB8Mn7_qU4kYNHYjjF1cWeJJ-ym49tyoM4HnKcRJLQLwnIWPXif4JtAS11yOITenaPbplY6NK5qfZOnHSprzHH9SzhDb9RV0CbIX3VY0PAhgyCR0R_JAr48vFLEruTFmq3l_bvSjzjxzMgGFKikn-38/s1209/20230714_124429.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJ4Rn3zNOt77pnOON0ILXX86OUHXFc4CGbgMZlB8Mn7_qU4kYNHYjjF1cWeJJ-ym49tyoM4HnKcRJLQLwnIWPXif4JtAS11yOITenaPbplY6NK5qfZOnHSprzHH9SzhDb9RV0CbIX3VY0PAhgyCR0R_JAr48vFLEruTFmq3l_bvSjzjxzMgGFKikn-38/s320/20230714_124429.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i ponti per le scimmie</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrbLC5Mkgj32d0CitM80s_3j54oLnOE-0uwoV1NG2DjzLxv-eN5m1QmuETsSE6p_yvNC9rzLZlkc9HjtEDtYWgsXnNfTR8Cxr5CXCkyPpei5ywrg_7gsDWutVOR6Eg05USXhndV14Rmldlui1DqDFoHz20BFI41-QRZRbeuz7SyL-exoYEeeplp3FbKk/s1209/20230714_124433.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwrbLC5Mkgj32d0CitM80s_3j54oLnOE-0uwoV1NG2DjzLxv-eN5m1QmuETsSE6p_yvNC9rzLZlkc9HjtEDtYWgsXnNfTR8Cxr5CXCkyPpei5ywrg_7gsDWutVOR6Eg05USXhndV14Rmldlui1DqDFoHz20BFI41-QRZRbeuz7SyL-exoYEeeplp3FbKk/s320/20230714_124433.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jGb4630pvKKZAFQtWkGoROL1VOQM79epULEXS0JRQsqEZ1grPvCi1cFykB402ML3chQrMMrX1dErf5pD6P6YHlZLQ1rwEMRNDr2patIVr0rC7SI1whcFvk0sbWDUVIvi-n8pvekYbD5j8vtICTuzNT2MeEwFuNIueBFECqextKNCapAMBeZ_FfGZy8E/s1209/20230714_124856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jGb4630pvKKZAFQtWkGoROL1VOQM79epULEXS0JRQsqEZ1grPvCi1cFykB402ML3chQrMMrX1dErf5pD6P6YHlZLQ1rwEMRNDr2patIVr0rC7SI1whcFvk0sbWDUVIvi-n8pvekYbD5j8vtICTuzNT2MeEwFuNIueBFECqextKNCapAMBeZ_FfGZy8E/s320/20230714_124856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJzmHKnCt1dCeqOlYdrxIhpj8V9XuwhnLvVSSC94GhmZ6WX-srISpVEhCQWP3nnTh-pMOk9Czm1VnG9eK1qCQdVE0zkGMGAjU-i0bfSuc941Pa2UpjKCiwssdOvoXKfxonoHNenY1I_zORY34qVfzqA104S8akGpaB2rH_g0XlfdMWHiQRqkDiz6iDBc/s1209/20230714_133001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJzmHKnCt1dCeqOlYdrxIhpj8V9XuwhnLvVSSC94GhmZ6WX-srISpVEhCQWP3nnTh-pMOk9Czm1VnG9eK1qCQdVE0zkGMGAjU-i0bfSuc941Pa2UpjKCiwssdOvoXKfxonoHNenY1I_zORY34qVfzqA104S8akGpaB2rH_g0XlfdMWHiQRqkDiz6iDBc/s320/20230714_133001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i ponti per le persone</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Passiamo qualche scalcinato pueblo e la differenza con gli altri villaggi, anche quelli dispersi nella riserva di Calakmul, è evidente. Qui i giardini, lo spiazzo coperto e i giochini non ci sono, o, se ci sono, sono malridotti e pericolanti. Le case son più capanne, e ci sono orde di bimbi anche piccoli che razzolano nel fango o vendicchiano qualcosa lungo la strada. Si intravede qualcuno che si sposta a cavallo anche sulla statale. Insomma, è tutto più fatiscente e scrostato (e già i giorni scorsi non si navigava nel lusso).</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMgKSJrw2VeRcZuRcwLmRf2bTQAO0iM-2ckcwFBbaCDlwKuqU7TKYhD5dFevMio9wMSV-v-wuqQE9orriLSKnmHTemP-ahzyU50xY-FcNL1lxhv4yUIEi_namCPdAPaNyF6Ah5X_p81Fbh8UYNjqO4TOe21CYwaLvIQwqz1Y1uXpnQ6DYMOGkfdIP_890/s1057/20230714_135155(0).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="793" data-original-width="1057" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMgKSJrw2VeRcZuRcwLmRf2bTQAO0iM-2ckcwFBbaCDlwKuqU7TKYhD5dFevMio9wMSV-v-wuqQE9orriLSKnmHTemP-ahzyU50xY-FcNL1lxhv4yUIEi_namCPdAPaNyF6Ah5X_p81Fbh8UYNjqO4TOe21CYwaLvIQwqz1Y1uXpnQ6DYMOGkfdIP_890/s320/20230714_135155(0).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhELVA3KuSHVRu3flyK5xKYfwAHFPRMZeMP5VRbpiydutqgdrzcV_B9V7tz4KH7BoWFz9O9-t5xvVV7SIYbb7s9mWyOFCSDBl6UBecvv-3Kq3BHKGjDYaEG5ao_0V5R4Nz6e_W-63n1wuTDJVU4u69ROWjoaioqXFm8Lnppc0G1peDqDAYBA8t636NayRQ/s1209/20230714_135208.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhELVA3KuSHVRu3flyK5xKYfwAHFPRMZeMP5VRbpiydutqgdrzcV_B9V7tz4KH7BoWFz9O9-t5xvVV7SIYbb7s9mWyOFCSDBl6UBecvv-3Kq3BHKGjDYaEG5ao_0V5R4Nz6e_W-63n1wuTDJVU4u69ROWjoaioqXFm8Lnppc0G1peDqDAYBA8t636NayRQ/s320/20230714_135208.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFc6jVcF7nilKJOOhuK-W-17w1n62w1xH-bDfpQSRZQaQqhqTM9192tD-etva76yxE2Vw038v0bLI8hF3qFHFRcXZQ38ITUzQbdER8lQaIn3fibRZvEdqbsCtWXaCdVWve5GrC7RIO5YdbiQwd4Jey-hRTwl8aAZZomA2IP7su7p58UYEVdRQuY4AzXYk/s1209/20230714_135229.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFc6jVcF7nilKJOOhuK-W-17w1n62w1xH-bDfpQSRZQaQqhqTM9192tD-etva76yxE2Vw038v0bLI8hF3qFHFRcXZQ38ITUzQbdER8lQaIn3fibRZvEdqbsCtWXaCdVWve5GrC7RIO5YdbiQwd4Jey-hRTwl8aAZZomA2IP7su7p58UYEVdRQuY4AzXYk/s320/20230714_135229.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Decidiamo di non prendere la scorciatoia sterrata che taglia per i campi, ma di proseguire sullo stradone. Sono solo 5km in più, ma tutti asfaltati e più battuti. Nell'ultima sosta prima della deviazione per Palenque veniamo approcciati da Carmine, che ha l'aria di un rapper californiano travestito da messicano. Ci dice che lavora come meccanico ciclista a Palenque, ma vive in un pueblo minuscolo nella selva, sul confine con il Guatemala. Ora sta tornando a casa perchè nel weekend il taller resta chiuso, non c'è tanto lavoro, visto che si occupano solo di MTB. Poi mi fa vedere il suo tatuaggione di una biciclettona sul braccione, e dice che è come il mio. Carmine, di voglio bene, ma parliamone. Ci chiede del viaggio, ci parla del suo lavoro, del noleggio bici per turisti che però funziona sì e no... E ci chiede una foto. Tutto con un entusiasmo da "preso bene" che ci dà la carica. Allorra questo Chiapas non è abitato solo da bandidos!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5mpyLDWQIq-MIyNuNxL6Vd-9_kGKhcaDlehBNmOgPNMKQrmscBmCZd7bByxXVsuagmHrDjKyUYuRRhnw1JUsJipwXK3wFRhzioUA_-DHXSc3vvKonnbVzbFVDElo5weO5lVbJAyFKJ6L_dGpmxCfvQa6cFOxzQKfYCi2n033SwUZ94BAOX1M0OO-mdlg/s989/20230714_143136.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5mpyLDWQIq-MIyNuNxL6Vd-9_kGKhcaDlehBNmOgPNMKQrmscBmCZd7bByxXVsuagmHrDjKyUYuRRhnw1JUsJipwXK3wFRhzioUA_-DHXSc3vvKonnbVzbFVDElo5weO5lVbJAyFKJ6L_dGpmxCfvQa6cFOxzQKfYCi2n033SwUZ94BAOX1M0OO-mdlg/s320/20230714_143136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo esserci salutati con pugnetti e strette di mano, ripartiamo per gli ultimi 30km. Lasciamo lo stradone passando attraverso un punto di controllo della polizia che è un enorme labirinto. Sembra una frontiera di stato! E invece è il modo che le forze dell'ordine hanno per far finta di avere la situazione in pugno. A parte un gran girare a vuoto quasi su noi stessi, tra auto e camion costretti al nostro stesso gioco dell'oca, di veri controlli non ce ne sono. Usciamo da quel piccolo inferno di sbarre, dossi e conetti catarifrangenti e ci troviamo catapultati su una strada bellissima. Primo, perchè corre nella giungla e tra palmeti fitti fitti. Secondo, perchè sullo sfondo ci compaiono davanti, azzurre, maestose, la prime vere montagne di questo viaggio. Ciao, Sierra Madre. E' un piacere conoscerti! Nemmeno qui mancano i cartelli rivolti alla tutela della fauna e i ponti per le scimmie. Che spettacolo!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8fdPByPWSCQIwk9hXQIYZ7HWWn-GLD6G6yrAOpBWz_CfC4xAKHG1VcY4JAzBPzDQVXa9kLgAFnsLHPZVYzti-kFHmhrsyPZMIcxvXXt73hgQuwsF6lQwvOI-luxrOn_arniNYQy6CAbTC93FkChoGyKSYJkZmfAeABxaA8pTC2r5bzPC_U_7escelSg/s1209/20230714_150321.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8fdPByPWSCQIwk9hXQIYZ7HWWn-GLD6G6yrAOpBWz_CfC4xAKHG1VcY4JAzBPzDQVXa9kLgAFnsLHPZVYzti-kFHmhrsyPZMIcxvXXt73hgQuwsF6lQwvOI-luxrOn_arniNYQy6CAbTC93FkChoGyKSYJkZmfAeABxaA8pTC2r5bzPC_U_7escelSg/s320/20230714_150321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbrlPA0MiV_RmIMf7MEWH69-Ts1_ilvYcldoK0DxxHgVvXe_DclIIl7qB39jHh8_6SagDKkpiG-sPYuGHFiPC4N0XZa-wwtGREb2ew3t07gUfitN_fNh3vd2I-W6EaL0lHCdcsHABH6ip9PqcEGzjlt6KT6OiZk8yLMjHdAQRRn6ep4fwns3UdWtxx1mU/s1209/20230714_150846.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbrlPA0MiV_RmIMf7MEWH69-Ts1_ilvYcldoK0DxxHgVvXe_DclIIl7qB39jHh8_6SagDKkpiG-sPYuGHFiPC4N0XZa-wwtGREb2ew3t07gUfitN_fNh3vd2I-W6EaL0lHCdcsHABH6ip9PqcEGzjlt6KT6OiZk8yLMjHdAQRRn6ep4fwns3UdWtxx1mU/s320/20230714_150846.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghAmwW-YpF0KzAa5JKe3128Ck4rlARKJ9m5GemAksue4uwzEO4bqB7LNVqKX-SiBcw3vrDRrp5MwKn6_V5FxANE3Wxd_HuoY6GzNhKWcJugRg6kpKqHRswVI4Cf8alUJ1J38fjOvREXq3bpbhRx8YyRPoql_xbFfS9IhHohMJ7zObBbYTuVPW70t9VFeE/s1209/20230714_150847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghAmwW-YpF0KzAa5JKe3128Ck4rlARKJ9m5GemAksue4uwzEO4bqB7LNVqKX-SiBcw3vrDRrp5MwKn6_V5FxANE3Wxd_HuoY6GzNhKWcJugRg6kpKqHRswVI4Cf8alUJ1J38fjOvREXq3bpbhRx8YyRPoql_xbFfS9IhHohMJ7zObBbYTuVPW70t9VFeE/s320/20230714_150847.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgbcuBX7Kg79Z9ddjSp2XTHhzQJ6cxo3q4dXqFLPRJ1vrBlqJMwHiiKHekH8_EFThfRnAXZ5_IEEFv1ktePpAW3DUk2PhWX7Zn9-oE8AmRVVs8JBNWACUq1iqjimJyUDTHfWLphPlL_H50Cvx5EFihiiTLFLVAFXVzpBza6h3iTaOqHyiIL2okQKrwsE/s1209/20230714_152542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgbcuBX7Kg79Z9ddjSp2XTHhzQJ6cxo3q4dXqFLPRJ1vrBlqJMwHiiKHekH8_EFThfRnAXZ5_IEEFv1ktePpAW3DUk2PhWX7Zn9-oE8AmRVVs8JBNWACUq1iqjimJyUDTHfWLphPlL_H50Cvx5EFihiiTLFLVAFXVzpBza6h3iTaOqHyiIL2okQKrwsE/s320/20230714_152542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJwUic-HCYrgvii1Yz9SUlZXp3lHZDygq8KadTlNW9nUw798TDxevhzyA1kM9NtQdSEwa0fr_ArAw6f6mRcPExd-3f0HZrXnFNUJviF7D2xugttMKrD55zvCV1msqjwa1y-d8_z3S4nyGQqltqTDXgjl98HDBsEpgCuY0sb-ZZTu_IHpeyc8oZMaVE0ZI/s1209/20230714_153932.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJwUic-HCYrgvii1Yz9SUlZXp3lHZDygq8KadTlNW9nUw798TDxevhzyA1kM9NtQdSEwa0fr_ArAw6f6mRcPExd-3f0HZrXnFNUJviF7D2xugttMKrD55zvCV1msqjwa1y-d8_z3S4nyGQqltqTDXgjl98HDBsEpgCuY0sb-ZZTu_IHpeyc8oZMaVE0ZI/s320/20230714_153932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Un po' meno entusiasmante, invece, è attraversare Pakalna, cittadina supercaotica e trafficatissima, dove la strada si restringe e passano mezzi troppo ingombranti per non far danno, su un fondo già devastato da buche e dossi e sabbia e asfalto rotto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHtMe9WYXbyH_6s_8XauULpqzXgbf1yjTcIK6M3HYEgHRdB_Tuy5zGQUZG0UFPmwWy7CXXM1WoKf091k4fwPQC4C_b44BzgejqGFGfgY8VYRgTkNF8XqnlqU5imQiiTTLsifep8Ef4E5YH1Y8KlQ0hlb0kWNJNY161T89TvYJMeew5yVa1AP2xjEQqKgQ/s1209/20230714_160217.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHtMe9WYXbyH_6s_8XauULpqzXgbf1yjTcIK6M3HYEgHRdB_Tuy5zGQUZG0UFPmwWy7CXXM1WoKf091k4fwPQC4C_b44BzgejqGFGfgY8VYRgTkNF8XqnlqU5imQiiTTLsifep8Ef4E5YH1Y8KlQ0hlb0kWNJNY161T89TvYJMeew5yVa1AP2xjEQqKgQ/s320/20230714_160217.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ormai, però, siamo arrivati. Anche Palenque città (che sorge a circa 10km dal sito archeologico) non è una meraviglia da attraversare in bici: sorge su collinette ripide, ha strade anguste e malmesse e un traffico piuttosto intenso di moto, mototaxi, motorini, auto e altri mezzi curiosi che hanno nome solo nella fantasia di chi li ha accrocchiati.</div><div>Abbiamo prenotato una stanza in centro, dove siamo ceti di poter lasciare, per tutta la giornata di domani, bici e bagagli al sicuro. Appena arrivata, crollo in un sonno di piombo per qualche attimo. Oltre ai kilometri, al vento contrario, alla tensione iniziale e al caldo, il caos delle città mi ha dato il colpo di grazia. Durante la doccia scopro con sconcerto che ho la schiena abbronzata e il marchio delle bretelle dei pantaloncini impresso sulla schiena. Allibisco. Non pensavo fosse fisicamente possibile abbronzarsi attraverso una maglietta che non è poi così sottile!</div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo un breve riposo, usciamo di nuovo per compiere la missione necessaria al prroseguimento in sicurezza del viaggio: trovare un mezzo che ci porti a San Cristobal de las casas, domani, dopo la visita alle rovine. Dopo un po' di code e colloqui e scarpinate, ottengo le informazioni necessarie: solo una compagnia va da qui a San Cristobal, la Ado, una delle più diffuse e già sperimentate quando eravamo in attesa delle bici. Questa fa il giro largo: non passa da Ocosingo ma da Villahermosa. Ha una corsa alle 23 che arriva a destinazione alle 7.30 del mattino dopo. Si possono caricare le bici, a patto di smontale un po' e dare una propina adeguata agli addetti ai bagagli. Insomma, tutto bene. Compriamo i biglietti e siamo leggeri e liberi di andare a cena.</div><div><br /></div><div>Di Palenque, moderna e antica, parleremo meglio domani. Il primo impatto, comunque, è quello di una cittadina che si è distribuita equamente i suoi spazi con la giungla. Case, locali, ufficici, rami, liane e radici convivono qui a stretto contatto, ed è un incontro incredibile per noi europei che siamo abituati a vedere, negli spazi urbani, una natura sottomessa, controllata e adattata alle esigenze umane, mai il contrario. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9iTeDdpIT6swFxNUXqt-w4uyglgToFxA4rBKOiKnlUBWlq_oYt1MMDdUiwt-p-A8LoOLvnECYkYINJD0EuOk1BEASp0-O_fJW_B7meDkr7o-BRw3LdmvE8GgbWpJAGQofTPQNGTrs2oo9cXRDD4PrnbNxdU8ckVqWcZl2gVqh5CTB6G0tWu8MJ5jv6NQ/s1209/20230714_181607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9iTeDdpIT6swFxNUXqt-w4uyglgToFxA4rBKOiKnlUBWlq_oYt1MMDdUiwt-p-A8LoOLvnECYkYINJD0EuOk1BEASp0-O_fJW_B7meDkr7o-BRw3LdmvE8GgbWpJAGQofTPQNGTrs2oo9cXRDD4PrnbNxdU8ckVqWcZl2gVqh5CTB6G0tWu8MJ5jv6NQ/s320/20230714_181607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3pGqiXPKH6-WjlaCP1mcLpma0HXklmOL6NY4n7aBH6wh_8CJYDbraA8kVJAZLWh1tQXmnLWuRZUlpl3q_sgv2vNzkFjDQgjrImq8dJ_-oYMxzmRncunH5sreDZ83idGhjEEk3qn_Yug27SG_iwEHGuNwDvcp_ILvQCzp9Kg8L5_N5Rigaq3NFEUmE5Yw/s320/20230714_182106.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjks_P54FRueKDDGHl84hnszq5HMNEE4v0t1BppkXSM75Fv39cwDwx0SHsUl7XHz9kDcOuz8nuVB_lHxcPrGZAfh2Sxyl_34c4McP5QYT5aB_8PkMyrkdPlGDs8xDS8TfSePDDwCrltPCsNp1IV8u2OO_Q1PtObcUsayL4S9fZMAgLBOMUDs8cHRloDWS4/s1209/20230714_182311.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjks_P54FRueKDDGHl84hnszq5HMNEE4v0t1BppkXSM75Fv39cwDwx0SHsUl7XHz9kDcOuz8nuVB_lHxcPrGZAfh2Sxyl_34c4McP5QYT5aB_8PkMyrkdPlGDs8xDS8TfSePDDwCrltPCsNp1IV8u2OO_Q1PtObcUsayL4S9fZMAgLBOMUDs8cHRloDWS4/s320/20230714_182311.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAGvbzZjcE8KfnwY8CvwY357NFcUENJ0T-zgMMZutoi5zq5t2twuCYkfTmyINl-17FyBpqwS5bmPszTuVmBaHJgqJaIXcDVMjZ3hCwG6ioLBUE7Wqn96Nb6qLzZ1ctd5RMY-e9r-jViGqoqIMBCKG4I_kA7xUNUez2VU73byzvR2Iy-urOpV0gZBENOA/s1209/20230714_182831.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAGvbzZjcE8KfnwY8CvwY357NFcUENJ0T-zgMMZutoi5zq5t2twuCYkfTmyINl-17FyBpqwS5bmPszTuVmBaHJgqJaIXcDVMjZ3hCwG6ioLBUE7Wqn96Nb6qLzZ1ctd5RMY-e9r-jViGqoqIMBCKG4I_kA7xUNUez2VU73byzvR2Iy-urOpV0gZBENOA/s320/20230714_182831.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtej9eqfGSTwxjkJBdOF3LEZJ4QyxxiRxhB5TKfcZZHt073kZFr04mniplDk14rBtUFaeAfSq-VbRMHgcS7dXS5uS8cx_gUBFXO4G0xT_AnqYEnR1YqbHdunD3WcfOaKygYyNABj1Y-wI7VcFHvaaVU3wAsNLJETq9CPFwb5fYSvW25fSEo_JgdRtWPXs/s1209/20230714_184524.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtej9eqfGSTwxjkJBdOF3LEZJ4QyxxiRxhB5TKfcZZHt073kZFr04mniplDk14rBtUFaeAfSq-VbRMHgcS7dXS5uS8cx_gUBFXO4G0xT_AnqYEnR1YqbHdunD3WcfOaKygYyNABj1Y-wI7VcFHvaaVU3wAsNLJETq9CPFwb5fYSvW25fSEo_JgdRtWPXs/s320/20230714_184524.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una stazione degli autobus in stile maya</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizi-gxlZGxiKqut81J2qU_3lBXUto0Lp5AoRgWxHqbsN-n1_CdDa0m_KBEjdFmgXrB4gbCVAMBogNGY3YpZXTCAzjIs8yLOoGf3ZtqrJX_tRk4abEwz6F-wGtnLaATLRdemygxQA_h7XiywPtilr7Bz6UtvG6ex7OfMwjsj6a98JEG-CvHd1CArsvq_gc/s1209/20230714_185444.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizi-gxlZGxiKqut81J2qU_3lBXUto0Lp5AoRgWxHqbsN-n1_CdDa0m_KBEjdFmgXrB4gbCVAMBogNGY3YpZXTCAzjIs8yLOoGf3ZtqrJX_tRk4abEwz6F-wGtnLaATLRdemygxQA_h7XiywPtilr7Bz6UtvG6ex7OfMwjsj6a98JEG-CvHd1CArsvq_gc/s320/20230714_185444.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">un evento che mi attrae e raccapriccia a un tempo</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Tornando verso il centro, passiamo per le vie dei negozi e del mercato. C'è il solito allegro casino messicano, ma qui con più mendicanti, per lo più giovani mamme e bambini. Alcuni vendono cosine ai passanti, altri si limitano a chiedere una monetina per la tortilla.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtUh8KWUpbc5EhHHlfJwfEy0g-KhIwSsh5URXaMMsIzTD1Yl-CtMYx9ePeQ6rv8G-iHDDXwlQ3xLPhwLCybd2u2eX1yNn8xBdxYF3BZ2bmkZV08n02s3vOLLQl0gJ1VMNTg6aW2VnZACopCjNmVDFwuAR7Y-1ICvsMbe_X_szeTzLZDNVwl5kQR2qbq7Q/s1209/20230714_191050.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtUh8KWUpbc5EhHHlfJwfEy0g-KhIwSsh5URXaMMsIzTD1Yl-CtMYx9ePeQ6rv8G-iHDDXwlQ3xLPhwLCybd2u2eX1yNn8xBdxYF3BZ2bmkZV08n02s3vOLLQl0gJ1VMNTg6aW2VnZACopCjNmVDFwuAR7Y-1ICvsMbe_X_szeTzLZDNVwl5kQR2qbq7Q/s320/20230714_191050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVRyXfrJvJM4j-70rwAs7kSX-frLHhmKVv1RqYTAuTAC-kYdac4iem3xMEZODQ2dLX6BZtspuCLLTSwlYEylrJHVL0aUcE8FF-3jFKHuMabgoyAf4P6INv4PzFwS1BOajsd0OvElDQebXlQVKBwJBNQ4N8Pf2JwJ9YxwgzMsVSmg04MWEVNnQGyXSwIak/s1209/20230714_191429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVRyXfrJvJM4j-70rwAs7kSX-frLHhmKVv1RqYTAuTAC-kYdac4iem3xMEZODQ2dLX6BZtspuCLLTSwlYEylrJHVL0aUcE8FF-3jFKHuMabgoyAf4P6INv4PzFwS1BOajsd0OvElDQebXlQVKBwJBNQ4N8Pf2JwJ9YxwgzMsVSmg04MWEVNnQGyXSwIak/s320/20230714_191429.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBptjMki7xRdLpQNJ-3MTbSvy0qIOybFK18h3W7TZlX5obXgubE8G0XBYSOXGZ45-wRsf3UnmFOu7wrJh3CdIj851G0Dsbvh2UwaEb7L4_6t8o1bKXWpbquc8yTR_K9H7RchbFrMqIBceJhAYXlR7q-slpYKgMgt-hT1KnF0CI3ega9dcjag4gRH0XT58/s1209/20230714_191513.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBptjMki7xRdLpQNJ-3MTbSvy0qIOybFK18h3W7TZlX5obXgubE8G0XBYSOXGZ45-wRsf3UnmFOu7wrJh3CdIj851G0Dsbvh2UwaEb7L4_6t8o1bKXWpbquc8yTR_K9H7RchbFrMqIBceJhAYXlR7q-slpYKgMgt-hT1KnF0CI3ega9dcjag4gRH0XT58/s320/20230714_191513.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mentre ancora ci abituiamo a questo nuovo clima umano, un locale attrae la nostra attenzione. Non è turistico, ci sono solo messicani, è roncio il giusto, ma non da epatite A. Ha pochi piatti fatti al momento. Nella scelta limitatissima, prendiamo due quesadillas al pollo piccante, come aperitivo, e un huarache huasteco al pollo, pomodoro e avocado da dividerci. Perchè, come ci fa notale il cameriere, non è un huarache, è un huarachon! Huarache è un tipo di sandalo, e il piatto prende il nome dalla forma della pasta di mais (masa de maiz), che pare una sciavatta, fritta, sottile, croccante, buonissima. Sopra ci si mette un po' quel che si vuole, come una pizza. La nostra ha crema di fagioli, verdure, pollo, avocado. E' enorme. Sazia entrambi. Ed è deliziosa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU_M6NJxF_B3N9yX6rs3vpbIAEU9c4ih0__psu6zxToTfSauonZ6GE8HLp-v8t2XcQmwNG6lxqe8ohdShGdH0wWopDfQDKqeISBVsf7HMzuSuVTVgdNcVQxxu14Dhf5L0Atj0ECmKoVH-8cqUTZP9v5EgaSx9FRl1JLOArrkVRnl3cBppJeLHpvsxt60g/s1209/20230714_193144.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU_M6NJxF_B3N9yX6rs3vpbIAEU9c4ih0__psu6zxToTfSauonZ6GE8HLp-v8t2XcQmwNG6lxqe8ohdShGdH0wWopDfQDKqeISBVsf7HMzuSuVTVgdNcVQxxu14Dhf5L0Atj0ECmKoVH-8cqUTZP9v5EgaSx9FRl1JLOArrkVRnl3cBppJeLHpvsxt60g/s320/20230714_193144.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJxF6wXT69LCZvje36GvYG3snhjSsGuhNsdNc-pOn_azIkJE8GGt90VIa7RlnH62JEX4tbw6fts3L1RTm_KTC7po21Xc71q3soesHLKTqEN-mTZBVuqD9oMUAT4McaopIAq6hz9Jl-NH0Sx77dreSe8x736H6kl0EZUF8D_lQLZ2gF50J0gjYeeQ4GOM/s1209/20230714_193701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJxF6wXT69LCZvje36GvYG3snhjSsGuhNsdNc-pOn_azIkJE8GGt90VIa7RlnH62JEX4tbw6fts3L1RTm_KTC7po21Xc71q3soesHLKTqEN-mTZBVuqD9oMUAT4McaopIAq6hz9Jl-NH0Sx77dreSe8x736H6kl0EZUF8D_lQLZ2gF50J0gjYeeQ4GOM/s320/20230714_193701.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0tIUnJAbCBsN4R8MeXCgpMHT9H-m-UmG4L09Cf0dneOJbWeJ8RD7x2BlpLi8bsRp2FCyJu5ZW_3YMm9auOsc9JOPUXoFz1VffgTYdGTDWGHNwAhyrikAVLFi0ty0DoBLGaQZrfNxAXKVtgVfK14p5zY5fOTPiqbHdVspTY82CJWaQe6u1mcbeK73Ske4/s1209/20230714_201328.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0tIUnJAbCBsN4R8MeXCgpMHT9H-m-UmG4L09Cf0dneOJbWeJ8RD7x2BlpLi8bsRp2FCyJu5ZW_3YMm9auOsc9JOPUXoFz1VffgTYdGTDWGHNwAhyrikAVLFi0ty0DoBLGaQZrfNxAXKVtgVfK14p5zY5fOTPiqbHdVspTY82CJWaQe6u1mcbeK73Ske4/s320/20230714_201328.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">15/7</div></div><div style="text-align: left;">Palenque pueblo e sito archeologico</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La giornata di oggi, che non prevede tratte in sella, è un incastro perfetto e meravigliosamente congeniato per permetterci di fare molte cose in poco tempo, pur nella consapevolezza della necessaria elasticità di fronte ai ritmi messicani (e, ormai, un po' anche nostri), e senza sbattimenti. Mi alzo in un bagno di sudore, un po' freddo, un po' caldo, un po' brododivolpe. Gigi mi ha attaccato il broncobrutto, e adesso tocca a me avere il naso che sgocciola e si tappa, la faccia rovente e il rincoglionimento più grave del solito. Ma pace, con un caffettino gentilmente offerto dall'hotel e due biscotti mi rimetto in pista. Lasciamo le bici e le borse in albergo, scelto accuratamente per il deposito bagagli largo e gratuito. Riprenderemo tutto stasera, sul tardi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quindi ci tuffiamo nelle già incasinate strade di Palenque pueblo, diretti alla stazione degli autobus, da dove partono anche i colectivos che portano alle rovine archeologiche. A segnalare il punto di partenza sono il testone di maya in una rotonda, e la statuona di maya di fronte. Dettaglio: nella mano destra c'è un nido di similcolombi, e la mamacita è in cova, mentre osserva l'umano fluire dall'alto, sbirciando tra le dita.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9wXRYjJubss3y1bH2gXlJI6zq3xt58Czlcc5N4416Mmzfj3xvz_7UYKtAbHfusqdYM615ajBqjy5qFZXptdg4nhjz5gCtcWm59KQI6kRxRiJRzTho9PRCycjaXOaN2gpqfpv-CYuldA6HDnUCJTooJUO3PgbjY_R8jF-hs_EFu5HmHZMlABC04kuqyI/s1209/20230715_101121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB9wXRYjJubss3y1bH2gXlJI6zq3xt58Czlcc5N4416Mmzfj3xvz_7UYKtAbHfusqdYM615ajBqjy5qFZXptdg4nhjz5gCtcWm59KQI6kRxRiJRzTho9PRCycjaXOaN2gpqfpv-CYuldA6HDnUCJTooJUO3PgbjY_R8jF-hs_EFu5HmHZMlABC04kuqyI/s320/20230715_101121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDOEOW7TxfD1awidt56kL1hKTaEob3JFL9RzN50Ml_n-mBhdOaVbHnd7nt9hdMWA5AFzOnI5FD3C1LJ8ndFZhEgRQrJllu8ITPynCylwXDOHA3LqqcIur1I1LXlaHhUHNhJqDwqavCLmjRwt_qkSeTGxhOca1nF7vXUCriJnIzSJWsE9GxclH57Fe6Pz0/s1209/20230715_101151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDOEOW7TxfD1awidt56kL1hKTaEob3JFL9RzN50Ml_n-mBhdOaVbHnd7nt9hdMWA5AFzOnI5FD3C1LJ8ndFZhEgRQrJllu8ITPynCylwXDOHA3LqqcIur1I1LXlaHhUHNhJqDwqavCLmjRwt_qkSeTGxhOca1nF7vXUCriJnIzSJWsE9GxclH57Fe6Pz0/s320/20230715_101151.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Nel giro di un minuto passa un combis diretto alle rovine: ci issiamo senza che quasi si fermi e, pagati i 25 pesos di corsa (1.2 euro) ci godiamo l'aria fresca del finestrino, mentre il pullmino, su cui siamo i soli turisti, fa salire e scendere gente. Dopo meno di una decina di kilometri, che ci portano a issarci sulle prime colline che separano la pianura del Golfo dalla Sierra Madre, e sono coperte da un fitto manto di giungla, è ora di scendere. Abbiamo superato uno zoo che viene spacciato per centro di recupero fauna selvatica (qui capita spesso, ahimè), diversi hotel e un parco acquatico. Ora siamo all'ingresso della riserva di Palenque, dove si pagano due biglietti: uno per la conservazione ecologica, l'altro per las ruinas. Notiamo un gran numero di cartelli e cartelloni, molti dei quali scritti a mano, che lamentano, da parte dei lavoratori, una serie di ingiustizie che sono costretti a subire da parte dell'INAH, l'ente statale che gestisce tutto il patrimonio storico messicano. Qui, su queste cose, è meglio non scherzare!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMu2QQrN1wf0n4mqV_z3BMHXste4LHzLRXL_cyx_Ai2deUZvRkY-DNff2TXko6A-9lQwA7bHzy5TEtw_vvj47Bze0RJ9fO_v4d5qsmWOnyrJgHa81cusEZa7GdrwNNchNJodRK_F2Sizn83BA2fcqIRHFvI9SuPGq7Kb9a_R_UuJhInwfPBPmuMb7tvc/s1209/20230715_103653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMMu2QQrN1wf0n4mqV_z3BMHXste4LHzLRXL_cyx_Ai2deUZvRkY-DNff2TXko6A-9lQwA7bHzy5TEtw_vvj47Bze0RJ9fO_v4d5qsmWOnyrJgHa81cusEZa7GdrwNNchNJodRK_F2Sizn83BA2fcqIRHFvI9SuPGq7Kb9a_R_UuJhInwfPBPmuMb7tvc/s320/20230715_103653.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Appena comprati i biglietti, mentre ci prepariamo a camminare per un kilometro e mezzo, in salita, al sole, per raggiungere l'ingresso principale, incappiamo in un immenso formicaio di formiche tagliafoglie. Un fiume di insetti trasporta, senza soluzione di continuità, pezzetti di foglia, appunto. Ma mica se le mangiano! Le usano per coltivare un fungo, che cresce solo nei loro formicai, che è il loro nutrimento principale. Una simbiosi perfetta!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFepjeGOZRoDIWmAzYb8hDtNmdGNPKd_9tBkICH08_6g-T02oIj-mtI1m_hPYnE6mTZWnpmDXIJ2znyowdW8RTz5VzDWXftjt0YLp0LWoAEw8DpSH0uYzcM68hj2VYANDsxyXtKuZNp5w_FXw__fzB2UkAiRVX92oYUgZ_cg1vBqtM7EZ1x649jTofb3E/s1209/20230715_103711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFepjeGOZRoDIWmAzYb8hDtNmdGNPKd_9tBkICH08_6g-T02oIj-mtI1m_hPYnE6mTZWnpmDXIJ2znyowdW8RTz5VzDWXftjt0YLp0LWoAEw8DpSH0uYzcM68hj2VYANDsxyXtKuZNp5w_FXw__fzB2UkAiRVX92oYUgZ_cg1vBqtM7EZ1x649jTofb3E/s320/20230715_103711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipsgcxpArsA9BVRJ6V3N1ESE9xOOgnGDv_j3KzLgNkyOiQryPwRsNwnqBXVpI-sNkib5aYRyseXuItZ97FuaM3cwqLk0xqx7_o7fJ5GPTW3AIRhznWA6SbYY6070q2FrHnrmHUBOZuOQ20NFOwCkjFCbkSzsft1XQ52-6E9dg2hG7k988AF6Sa4w8Ny1A/s1209/20230715_103749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipsgcxpArsA9BVRJ6V3N1ESE9xOOgnGDv_j3KzLgNkyOiQryPwRsNwnqBXVpI-sNkib5aYRyseXuItZ97FuaM3cwqLk0xqx7_o7fJ5GPTW3AIRhznWA6SbYY6070q2FrHnrmHUBOZuOQ20NFOwCkjFCbkSzsft1XQ52-6E9dg2hG7k988AF6Sa4w8Ny1A/s320/20230715_103749.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKg9gqQ0Tl8MLONsch7fi0sM17CMgD2Rl5KF60ueYJJcOFF0j7UiTx3uY7FRysfG3aUQZeeWpdmoVJcl_PjpVcuNGDUZQq_is00Whyufq2NERxGPwhTVSS5qHe_IFLYEb3-ECGyYdKVHZq4t8RLSv7DFBiEI56xnNn3mvXWt5TKVxvRL0uyDOTFOcJxJ0/s1209/20230715_103756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKg9gqQ0Tl8MLONsch7fi0sM17CMgD2Rl5KF60ueYJJcOFF0j7UiTx3uY7FRysfG3aUQZeeWpdmoVJcl_PjpVcuNGDUZQq_is00Whyufq2NERxGPwhTVSS5qHe_IFLYEb3-ECGyYdKVHZq4t8RLSv7DFBiEI56xnNn3mvXWt5TKVxvRL0uyDOTFOcJxJ0/s320/20230715_103756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif8LBXvArI6gx9g2faf851ELjQtq79cgo8Zo1lNptvwiT4EEgchmQyj3gzoYPF6gnu0QYR4TjSka_oIQ06vk7BqNJuKAIMCrpAMv7Jvy49iR_q1KK0NZXigdASbJ7BH2K_0BaeRepyudayaJnUir46UQKxVeX98E13iMlDdgTZfsxEN5DfgLgYhWWLabU/s1209/20230715_103803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif8LBXvArI6gx9g2faf851ELjQtq79cgo8Zo1lNptvwiT4EEgchmQyj3gzoYPF6gnu0QYR4TjSka_oIQ06vk7BqNJuKAIMCrpAMv7Jvy49iR_q1KK0NZXigdASbJ7BH2K_0BaeRepyudayaJnUir46UQKxVeX98E13iMlDdgTZfsxEN5DfgLgYhWWLabU/s320/20230715_103803.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG8k_oy-QwoK86aqrpyG2BsuKtsqpblQ7XziPnCu2t3ylobjsZTr3a0KAxY82zg-Gr0klButz6Q2lqj0NQmMokP8soy67_NB6JMf9W1rVqSZcswVENCAIOtqIUaVM2bkfy2TZHHlwE1PcJ79OgRdHtqGS5MjjRtLwdztAASIuKC_5SoiCXs0ZGK5yH9WE/s1209/20230715_104035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG8k_oy-QwoK86aqrpyG2BsuKtsqpblQ7XziPnCu2t3ylobjsZTr3a0KAxY82zg-Gr0klButz6Q2lqj0NQmMokP8soy67_NB6JMf9W1rVqSZcswVENCAIOtqIUaVM2bkfy2TZHHlwE1PcJ79OgRdHtqGS5MjjRtLwdztAASIuKC_5SoiCXs0ZGK5yH9WE/s320/20230715_104035.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le famose tope!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Quel kilometro e mezzo, sarà il raffreddore, sarà il sole rovente, sarà la salita, sembra infinito. Ma prima di immergerci nella storia dell'antica città di Palenque, facciamo un salto in uno dei sentieri che si diramano sulle colline, e conducono a cascate e templi maya rimasti esclusi dagli scavi. Si segnala la presenza, anche qui, di scimmie urlatrici, di ocelot e tucani. La natura è lussureggiante e chiederebbe la N maiuscola, perchè davvero dà l'idea di una grandezza e di una ricchezza, e anche di una forza, creatrice e distruttrice, che fa sentire minuscoli. Ma in quanta bellezza!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAMq81Mzqmf5Xc9OMIH_2p0ODkfiqesP5ib23iczT5lvPtMxwDWn7iIfjUuAMDgmoJZVyekuh7HfZjdMD1_SDl6gwJbo-ucxPh3V3oF8s5jINZDIBtMVHs2mVN9yIO_rpADuLiuLiWqyWOn7eKAIcwYCaJz-mQAd7h0-DbsJldSpsW8-4tSjFmX0YoIU/s1209/20230715_105232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAMq81Mzqmf5Xc9OMIH_2p0ODkfiqesP5ib23iczT5lvPtMxwDWn7iIfjUuAMDgmoJZVyekuh7HfZjdMD1_SDl6gwJbo-ucxPh3V3oF8s5jINZDIBtMVHs2mVN9yIO_rpADuLiuLiWqyWOn7eKAIcwYCaJz-mQAd7h0-DbsJldSpsW8-4tSjFmX0YoIU/s320/20230715_105232.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCuFzOUVFnLdzaPQzLbIq3QaDBWnuWV1sZp28fpX_ryDqdzXuBgGIxxDnW26CRDjQP8sdHoWqtfQbaOawyungDLOEp0fNApdLzmVFSVNIRWhEPlP4jGOZlMbhT1eiAvBwLJb6hqMbb9jX5T2V_b83sBAN3s_mWT6C41MlEzs5gyttH7HnJzYP3PtZRYw/s1209/20230715_105239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCuFzOUVFnLdzaPQzLbIq3QaDBWnuWV1sZp28fpX_ryDqdzXuBgGIxxDnW26CRDjQP8sdHoWqtfQbaOawyungDLOEp0fNApdLzmVFSVNIRWhEPlP4jGOZlMbhT1eiAvBwLJb6hqMbb9jX5T2V_b83sBAN3s_mWT6C41MlEzs5gyttH7HnJzYP3PtZRYw/s320/20230715_105239.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbJNHexSOaN5_Rv8EqT94kX9WMpsFyYLjWua6YilyzMZEVzvq1r3Ac8uHqvbloxHxA-3cxjU-I5wbCXqw4p89Y-bND9S15k90M2RriURcBGD8rq-S07dVSfgPQVjGJonwCLkKHL9Yzw6Sw1njyBLU7diYze7uWkbyBQPz5ELoWTN9VndDv819sgt1yMs/s1209/20230715_105500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbJNHexSOaN5_Rv8EqT94kX9WMpsFyYLjWua6YilyzMZEVzvq1r3Ac8uHqvbloxHxA-3cxjU-I5wbCXqw4p89Y-bND9S15k90M2RriURcBGD8rq-S07dVSfgPQVjGJonwCLkKHL9Yzw6Sw1njyBLU7diYze7uWkbyBQPz5ELoWTN9VndDv819sgt1yMs/s320/20230715_105500.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i custodi sono di manifeste idee politiche</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6EVvKlfrHRcFSry7xyOcUP8hOAAfERfsbyG9rs7DDRVrBxlz5eFZmZk1h7dkYAovsYQ0jbFifhr8x5VhLlX8BoTtBn0LhHu1-g2HpN9H0bIoIpp-rhcK6GSFo3j536tNYQjw8sJKx0enbqzXCM_iICzvRQZViVdGnuRtSv80Y8fii3hcq7hHcOfBIIgc/s1209/20230715_105715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6EVvKlfrHRcFSry7xyOcUP8hOAAfERfsbyG9rs7DDRVrBxlz5eFZmZk1h7dkYAovsYQ0jbFifhr8x5VhLlX8BoTtBn0LhHu1-g2HpN9H0bIoIpp-rhcK6GSFo3j536tNYQjw8sJKx0enbqzXCM_iICzvRQZViVdGnuRtSv80Y8fii3hcq7hHcOfBIIgc/s320/20230715_105715.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb335iUWjAZKmwHFoNazDwQQqc5_OaHMtbPIcLDZ7AYxcSsZVkRAQMpgFJY3Gp6fB7ki0c76w0ZskQcWJH1ZJbHLsTz6je0rTq2vju3CpZvySTiKylON_lIv9VYTDtPa9JNkLBO6H0uQzpgysDDlT-bESBjiQVTKrGhlQMkIUYMRQYmjmLnuXGv_122_8/s979/20230715_105914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb335iUWjAZKmwHFoNazDwQQqc5_OaHMtbPIcLDZ7AYxcSsZVkRAQMpgFJY3Gp6fB7ki0c76w0ZskQcWJH1ZJbHLsTz6je0rTq2vju3CpZvySTiKylON_lIv9VYTDtPa9JNkLBO6H0uQzpgysDDlT-bESBjiQVTKrGhlQMkIUYMRQYmjmLnuXGv_122_8/s320/20230715_105914.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Viene quindi il momento tanto atteso: la visita del sito. Come sempre, ma più del solito, all'ingresso c'è una pletora di umanità varia che vende qualcosa, e cerca di guadagnarsi la tortilla. Si va dagli ambulanti con souvenir made in China alle donne indigene che propongono i loro ricami e i loro bracciali. Ci sono bimbi che vendono bibite e pacchettini di caramelle già aperti, e baracchini che offrono cibo conservato in borse termiche che sfidano i quaranta gradi del primo mattino (forse). Non mancano i cocchi freschi affettati al momento con il machete e altre amenità varie da mercato. Questo accade anche all'interno del sito, in un via vai di ragazzini e venditori. Sono tante anche le guide, di cui poche autorizzate, e tra queste pure bimbi che hanno imparato un po' di nozioni di storia e le rivendono a quattro spicci. Insomma, s'è detto: il Chiapas è lo stato messicano più povero e non ci vuole molto a capirlo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Una volta entrati, la vegetazione si dirada e subito si spalanca davanti agli occhi la meraviglia. palenque significa palizzata ed è spagnolo. Il nome maya era Lakamha, grande acqua. Sorse intorno al 100 a.C., ma il suo periodo più florido si colloca tra il 630 e il 740 d.C. La città iniziò ad acquistare importanza sotto Pakal, che regnò dal 615 al 683 d.C. e il cui glifo era lo scudo solare. Durante il suo regno sorsero piazze e palazzi, tra cui il magnifico Templo da las inscriptiones (mausoleo dello stesso sovrano). Tali strutture erano caratterizzate da tetti spioventi e da raffinati bassorilievi in stucco. Degli oltre 15kmq di città antica ne sono stati riportati alla luce solo 2,5, ma ricchi di tesori. Bisogna poi immaginarsi questi edifici dipinti di rosso vivo, con sculture e stucchi gialli e blu.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Appena entrati si incontrano il templo de la calavera e le due tombe: quella della Regina rossa, probabilmente moglie di Pakal, e così chiamata perchè il suo scheletro era tinto di rosso (oltrechè ornato di gioielli) e il tempio delle iscrizioni, tomba di Pakal stesso, uno accanto all'altro. Il sarcofago della regina è in loco e visitabile, mentre quello di Pakal è riprodotto nel museo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRw6s4vKElfx4If6aZauYQhn5_-6KfD6y4PRy_pgYcgfY4iWz7ci8HknDMMVQO924X5GGR8bRXNWASxrB0Ak6ol9t0ADTLNPCUTD_yYTXlMpAvJjF91WcAWXL_pHiu1fUnGbZxF4w89CfVaQSY5vYT5OlNo7Vg6F_xFQPYR1IuiBk-t1NgruOY6Ay-cO4/s1209/20230715_112543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRw6s4vKElfx4If6aZauYQhn5_-6KfD6y4PRy_pgYcgfY4iWz7ci8HknDMMVQO924X5GGR8bRXNWASxrB0Ak6ol9t0ADTLNPCUTD_yYTXlMpAvJjF91WcAWXL_pHiu1fUnGbZxF4w89CfVaQSY5vYT5OlNo7Vg6F_xFQPYR1IuiBk-t1NgruOY6Ay-cO4/s320/20230715_112543.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXGCdpUKynfWrzXBW-iaBno-8oSowr6q_DS4nXhFzT1WVJiMXgrg0lRWyXoxeKzxTgJhc5rbnIG5A4E0kLYJzhf2tsHZL1Hgrp9SYYO53iaY9S97cxBZ-1gl3WQy5olj-PaJKofdKqoLzpUNm8fgOfOCAZoB6B4NRJd_uXmFUx-X-S1KrOC-MfxcJQRhM/s1209/20230715_112639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXGCdpUKynfWrzXBW-iaBno-8oSowr6q_DS4nXhFzT1WVJiMXgrg0lRWyXoxeKzxTgJhc5rbnIG5A4E0kLYJzhf2tsHZL1Hgrp9SYYO53iaY9S97cxBZ-1gl3WQy5olj-PaJKofdKqoLzpUNm8fgOfOCAZoB6B4NRJd_uXmFUx-X-S1KrOC-MfxcJQRhM/s320/20230715_112639.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3cATs07BPfRuEbpb5okurPwdqKCOCcGOS9cNAIR35rbn1EtkNJedcZuYoWKdKnoZfN-KS_5YqhTQOHSyjkcFW5ry9xbEnzo3Q2OhUvj6CJsDjpoWFYPUe9xvdG92ZMCSAsTY8jka0OL2vRZuILd8zYyJdXhU3qmGMVKdMIZlLOJihB2rJt4SQqhwYVLU/s1209/20230715_112742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3cATs07BPfRuEbpb5okurPwdqKCOCcGOS9cNAIR35rbn1EtkNJedcZuYoWKdKnoZfN-KS_5YqhTQOHSyjkcFW5ry9xbEnzo3Q2OhUvj6CJsDjpoWFYPUe9xvdG92ZMCSAsTY8jka0OL2vRZuILd8zYyJdXhU3qmGMVKdMIZlLOJihB2rJt4SQqhwYVLU/s320/20230715_112742.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvjJJjYZOIpz91ZXj5X2BoN_I2VEBxE-wIn6Dk34y99LChCtw1OxEwhAII0OUDiQEPFV83vKTab-JMS9rwgMaNfmyjDBgmKScVBK761ZyhPtTJRjei5Q_V6g6MLRE6w7-SOVhuxYq4gzHY3oirxG1yHD3Q9rpRKWtk_Ku5jEPiVVHnm451hvKah0WVtQ/s1209/20230715_113011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvjJJjYZOIpz91ZXj5X2BoN_I2VEBxE-wIn6Dk34y99LChCtw1OxEwhAII0OUDiQEPFV83vKTab-JMS9rwgMaNfmyjDBgmKScVBK761ZyhPtTJRjei5Q_V6g6MLRE6w7-SOVhuxYq4gzHY3oirxG1yHD3Q9rpRKWtk_Ku5jEPiVVHnm451hvKah0WVtQ/s320/20230715_113011.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFLGOd2MYTe968mQpf_VTQz-MpxHe67FyUd0I_poJfe5LZTQAqWsBMsMB3SCt3sQIh4Vcavq7at0jEsgVPT1Iac83waKdI6QJb1yk1AHH0EMPWn6ap42S8foeOTfdN87mS1qP5xNdLk1O71d-meNmdCD1dXVcwcuad2Hl878IazRU8HCr_FxCDN_YuFZk/s1209/20230715_113020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFLGOd2MYTe968mQpf_VTQz-MpxHe67FyUd0I_poJfe5LZTQAqWsBMsMB3SCt3sQIh4Vcavq7at0jEsgVPT1Iac83waKdI6QJb1yk1AHH0EMPWn6ap42S8foeOTfdN87mS1qP5xNdLk1O71d-meNmdCD1dXVcwcuad2Hl878IazRU8HCr_FxCDN_YuFZk/s320/20230715_113020.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Di fronte ai due mausolei si trova la tomba di Alberto Ruz Lhuillier, che scoprì i resti dei sovrani nel 1952 e giustamente ha avuto la sua sepoltura nel luogo più consono. E' come se io venissi sepolta nel giardino della scuola media di Sedriano, accanto all'orto didattico. E' comunque un'idea!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0o5HqDm0qHeBC76E3rx_vEKtgCO2E9AQ7LH9-rKHJ7OiA2cRP9Py2KvQDery6SipX5aFwM_ricPIbRXxpX9H1p3VcD5Zkw73VmLBOaXXviTjmNQCISLfZYanNecMIyzo_J6q611737nZYZdHpRPWa1GZNTf75ms7nmI17Twk9A3F7FTjY2PvPUUN6rY/s1209/20230715_113126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0o5HqDm0qHeBC76E3rx_vEKtgCO2E9AQ7LH9-rKHJ7OiA2cRP9Py2KvQDery6SipX5aFwM_ricPIbRXxpX9H1p3VcD5Zkw73VmLBOaXXviTjmNQCISLfZYanNecMIyzo_J6q611737nZYZdHpRPWa1GZNTf75ms7nmI17Twk9A3F7FTjY2PvPUUN6rY/s320/20230715_113126.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqutKKMDIzNvKp9kk-sJ1KIrcywkqan8uAALhTpjo7H5P82dtbA4zJ6Ne92Qi8DnUmrczuam4lLYh6oQc_VdCifnHwkqZ86fiahen_1CfzuZ3JDoDzI0frtBjsAquxGV4T5VTU0TEZhtMAoE7v0HlkuHXBaocl72eHEzIIkkt9b1AsBWOeEDTyrwLwQbg/s1209/20230715_114832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqutKKMDIzNvKp9kk-sJ1KIrcywkqan8uAALhTpjo7H5P82dtbA4zJ6Ne92Qi8DnUmrczuam4lLYh6oQc_VdCifnHwkqZ86fiahen_1CfzuZ3JDoDzI0frtBjsAquxGV4T5VTU0TEZhtMAoE7v0HlkuHXBaocl72eHEzIIkkt9b1AsBWOeEDTyrwLwQbg/s320/20230715_114832.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Il templo de las inscriptiones si chiama così per la lunga serie di glifi che narrano la storia di Palenque e di Pakal (la cui maschera, corredo funebre, fu pure rubata in modo rocambolesco e poi ritrovata, negli anni '80). Subito accanto si staglia il Palazzo, enorme struttura labirintica più volte rimaneggiata nel corso di 400 anni, residenza dei sovrani. La particolarità sta nella torre, che permetteva ai nobili e ai sacerdoti di osservare il sole. Gli edifici, nemmeno a dirlo, sono tutti orientati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qZrU2M9Vf4cXuozmBBoWVn-kM5CgoWU4aCMpyJhRqepn7CHkXmvoTEGkCacab8klsYzhU5uc8MdxIQVU3X9yGqBbxs029gsLxsi5JCEMwOCqHLuNvsVgQkiPMmgoo3z-KjAbKJ7w9exduQWlfEbL6xKjvSnUH1Uu5sWnrjJODE-D7QlQQfmVGxk0-Vs/s1209/20230715_115353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qZrU2M9Vf4cXuozmBBoWVn-kM5CgoWU4aCMpyJhRqepn7CHkXmvoTEGkCacab8klsYzhU5uc8MdxIQVU3X9yGqBbxs029gsLxsi5JCEMwOCqHLuNvsVgQkiPMmgoo3z-KjAbKJ7w9exduQWlfEbL6xKjvSnUH1Uu5sWnrjJODE-D7QlQQfmVGxk0-Vs/s320/20230715_115353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo questo primo gruppo di edifici, ci spostiamo al secondo, detto de Las cruces e fatto costruire dal figlio di Pakal, Kan B'alam II, il re giaguaro-serpente, che regnò dal 684 al 702 e affrontò la rivale città di Toninà. Vinse ed estese il suo potere, oltre a portare avanti la costruzione di edifici sacri, tra cui i tre templi detti de las cruces. Che poi mica son croci, son la ceiba, l'albero sacro che ha le radici nel regno dei morti, il tronco in quello dei vivi e i rami nel cielo degli dei maggiori.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFOp2mmgwUecXzZDQyz8tYopMETcXoc5AEas6EIbcpb9vRMFKpukDusOxbLlGn2so8cYrLLdvyO-nTc0bRLEBZ0Vv3BcRfMH2CbuKoUisxA7_vDjJdYCdjcukPb4vGSM-4C2Nyu_1R0e1MR5lF6hhqDGWWr49nQNhPK3A7fMfCtbxnFSOQlAShr28w3Sk/s1209/20230715_115710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFOp2mmgwUecXzZDQyz8tYopMETcXoc5AEas6EIbcpb9vRMFKpukDusOxbLlGn2so8cYrLLdvyO-nTc0bRLEBZ0Vv3BcRfMH2CbuKoUisxA7_vDjJdYCdjcukPb4vGSM-4C2Nyu_1R0e1MR5lF6hhqDGWWr49nQNhPK3A7fMfCtbxnFSOQlAShr28w3Sk/s320/20230715_115710.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLDW6gvMsNbPiB4TyhiOEjUXIZAfKvFUs98hfw21aYXrvRpr2W_iQU7Z1tAeSB714go243evhYirUniMcB_8gECSoIhhxj5UtLeju0edLA0kSCJCPRgc2sYNRKevUG6SUKHOAlxChqrAOlth50CEbdG6sgu8KmY6q3FXJHlRIP2jgqVb92jk9guSiY9KU/s1209/20230715_120258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLDW6gvMsNbPiB4TyhiOEjUXIZAfKvFUs98hfw21aYXrvRpr2W_iQU7Z1tAeSB714go243evhYirUniMcB_8gECSoIhhxj5UtLeju0edLA0kSCJCPRgc2sYNRKevUG6SUKHOAlxChqrAOlth50CEbdG6sgu8KmY6q3FXJHlRIP2jgqVb92jk9guSiY9KU/s320/20230715_120258.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zn20wSjhAEy38KBAlH6cM2l5zVrOeWYkWBp53qRp-ucc0elEqj71NKM5rdNNWMaDUBZz6S4-DJw4d57h-EvbQ4WYE7b0knfJybPHLT7y3xOM1SvUwthmLZvpEaenLTsKfpMwMEx8LOFOgd23Z8kLZsW03xdotvAHsi7ZtkTW0sPPq8i1qRaJUImhBSA/s1209/20230715_120302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zn20wSjhAEy38KBAlH6cM2l5zVrOeWYkWBp53qRp-ucc0elEqj71NKM5rdNNWMaDUBZz6S4-DJw4d57h-EvbQ4WYE7b0knfJybPHLT7y3xOM1SvUwthmLZvpEaenLTsKfpMwMEx8LOFOgd23Z8kLZsW03xdotvAHsi7ZtkTW0sPPq8i1qRaJUImhBSA/s320/20230715_120302.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPa1WZuFybs50zGDAVXf0gavDtcXt67sC9h1TbjVD7DGR0loK8lgRxnvA-avC5bO4GMr_HySQs-QvIch5yvFbp501d2Hn7BqeAEp5fHZ4vonWML97Yu-DizaY2CYsz-QEvvDhYab8QpNRJFpGQO1W_rYqwtHseG2leg54bGh63UgRBLyebPAj2OTQ2MIo/s979/20230715_120539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPa1WZuFybs50zGDAVXf0gavDtcXt67sC9h1TbjVD7DGR0loK8lgRxnvA-avC5bO4GMr_HySQs-QvIch5yvFbp501d2Hn7BqeAEp5fHZ4vonWML97Yu-DizaY2CYsz-QEvvDhYab8QpNRJFpGQO1W_rYqwtHseG2leg54bGh63UgRBLyebPAj2OTQ2MIo/s320/20230715_120539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxdwEYI-vJsWa0hVutZEVYe0bn5y9Q6MKCwgBPy6nearWIQA3uruXMLcDOYWy91jkOlmA5-nwtcIfO9rXWMv8voRm9EoUgT8cFTLOciSrvJBwC9sQVWieAKSuH693FchpNbsqSzXd5vQSIvMVpjvft57KgrIXeXzGYqUgLYqBSHDcuV7Tt3Q2YGp8Socw/s1209/20230715_120831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxdwEYI-vJsWa0hVutZEVYe0bn5y9Q6MKCwgBPy6nearWIQA3uruXMLcDOYWy91jkOlmA5-nwtcIfO9rXWMv8voRm9EoUgT8cFTLOciSrvJBwC9sQVWieAKSuH693FchpNbsqSzXd5vQSIvMVpjvft57KgrIXeXzGYqUgLYqBSHDcuV7Tt3Q2YGp8Socw/s320/20230715_120831.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3RBQrC8yYr8E2kzvyLHBU8ZKCtqt1LDxRmFnY4Px1_4YnpdKQ4JLcCtYeZvPgSrRbV-PUokcgQZe1CC9pXoPEmm9v_gTfBeWPgiEtKxgTheXvFJSpRsyRJqUPBs_eQjA5_nLRvOHWHvJuoGh5DbfaL37UlUXHQ9S1PXt25K1-dfqDoKNguLRpT3Cpgs/s1209/20230715_121314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU3RBQrC8yYr8E2kzvyLHBU8ZKCtqt1LDxRmFnY4Px1_4YnpdKQ4JLcCtYeZvPgSrRbV-PUokcgQZe1CC9pXoPEmm9v_gTfBeWPgiEtKxgTheXvFJSpRsyRJqUPBs_eQjA5_nLRvOHWHvJuoGh5DbfaL37UlUXHQ9S1PXt25K1-dfqDoKNguLRpT3Cpgs/s320/20230715_121314.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Su questi templi vale la pena salire, nonostante l'ormai nota faticaccia, perchè in cima le camere hanno bassorilievi di grande interesse, che rappresentano le divinità e le incoronazioni dei sovrani, secondo una complessa simbologia che prevede sempre la presenza del sole, del mais, di giaguari o serpenti e di altre piante come cacao e avocado. Insomma, tutto il mondo dei maya riassunto in breve. Qualcuno sostiene che gli artisti facessero uso di funghi allucinogeni, che qui crescono come specie endemica (e vengono anche venduti, a bordo strada). Inoltre, dall'altro, si gode di una spettacolare vista sul sito archeologico.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKG61pGvqhn02ISKK_uaTWVtnVR6WmAP5ww_yUUppNre8mKqSQx2QMZBKSC3ES0jQdrPXWV8ndAICw0LGzgwFVaV5u-GUperc2vo6vutT7NhDToRMYYTrJGzDW2psgYBQQiZzfjJiyzKV9hFgsDAml2HSoy4MrpQlH4PKW7JOCY9usMQISuTiHsNi_SpM/s1209/20230715_121657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKG61pGvqhn02ISKK_uaTWVtnVR6WmAP5ww_yUUppNre8mKqSQx2QMZBKSC3ES0jQdrPXWV8ndAICw0LGzgwFVaV5u-GUperc2vo6vutT7NhDToRMYYTrJGzDW2psgYBQQiZzfjJiyzKV9hFgsDAml2HSoy4MrpQlH4PKW7JOCY9usMQISuTiHsNi_SpM/s320/20230715_121657.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOxu20niKtqz0LIlVoefJ_KguZooKvKV7-d98UaUM1kKuOgCt-cvDyqni5bwudKWERQ-9D4cadSE8ehJUZrHNeWn36GY6BVNtkmScbxJXFLPMTXtYdA635CSy8GrSFDjL911IFx9pmEXn01fT1UXONvb7QAohlwo7MXToT6a61aHOtgvZL4XkmC8qvRY/s1209/20230715_121712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOxu20niKtqz0LIlVoefJ_KguZooKvKV7-d98UaUM1kKuOgCt-cvDyqni5bwudKWERQ-9D4cadSE8ehJUZrHNeWn36GY6BVNtkmScbxJXFLPMTXtYdA635CSy8GrSFDjL911IFx9pmEXn01fT1UXONvb7QAohlwo7MXToT6a61aHOtgvZL4XkmC8qvRY/s320/20230715_121712.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5jaUgBM8JZu9uaMJI8Xcnt5caMQvgftZ6yGr1DEDqu0jw9RsfgnOfiML3Jnh5_MEyW5do-UcMyBZ3nPd2dEHpP1zCGBM984SZo9gBoBcQHi7dznB7urLmQl6NS82EiSuY5PpnXZ3FrE-3I1E6txYP1aQzXjGhTcjVd_avTzsohXUwmm5ryMLnAGG5i10/s1209/20230715_121839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5jaUgBM8JZu9uaMJI8Xcnt5caMQvgftZ6yGr1DEDqu0jw9RsfgnOfiML3Jnh5_MEyW5do-UcMyBZ3nPd2dEHpP1zCGBM984SZo9gBoBcQHi7dznB7urLmQl6NS82EiSuY5PpnXZ3FrE-3I1E6txYP1aQzXjGhTcjVd_avTzsohXUwmm5ryMLnAGG5i10/s320/20230715_121839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0tH6zRDE3_3RX0L18F2G-uZUAj028yrlCG9OGilxomRRvCASm0g_P-C-dE7y9d5BYd9_1-bKftd7wOdOuFr_p9L9uBg1qMbzGQVrYEEny4Yemc1t_xf_joSNx5CyzGr0d9HXUkFbECXkemnw-vV6uyMl4FWFxAmqWjarz8gtUaD1QvKcBW59Q3DP09U/s979/20230715_121924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0tH6zRDE3_3RX0L18F2G-uZUAj028yrlCG9OGilxomRRvCASm0g_P-C-dE7y9d5BYd9_1-bKftd7wOdOuFr_p9L9uBg1qMbzGQVrYEEny4Yemc1t_xf_joSNx5CyzGr0d9HXUkFbECXkemnw-vV6uyMl4FWFxAmqWjarz8gtUaD1QvKcBW59Q3DP09U/s320/20230715_121924.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdejlRCBiH5POsbvy_QZtn_hF48a-vKIG3Xx2EKyCaf-nqKL7hKMKeTfRVdLAkbLu3zaT7RwwxJLeGo0HglI0J8k5pwEz98gyctlWA78NRUh2sRGm-jkGFyZbLmvrOIZMvTKI2ruva2yNDJsSka8sU3M9pbrcPy9CGrEVJVY9c-pZ_2m45W-F6f6ZBJo/s1209/20230715_121945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdejlRCBiH5POsbvy_QZtn_hF48a-vKIG3Xx2EKyCaf-nqKL7hKMKeTfRVdLAkbLu3zaT7RwwxJLeGo0HglI0J8k5pwEz98gyctlWA78NRUh2sRGm-jkGFyZbLmvrOIZMvTKI2ruva2yNDJsSka8sU3M9pbrcPy9CGrEVJVY9c-pZ_2m45W-F6f6ZBJo/s320/20230715_121945.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIPjtUqE-XlPCebcZlw511Iqfx9GEuDuwiOtzm2L3tr7Ylf8ZKFge87R1QAMgLwBLVLNRGzl5DdTlLd6wPmS27GwRSyA52C1RCNngI199-aIdqeIWnLaybPPM_j_2H7zd5cPdLPhxqhcsPnVEr72UHTW5JLKkcOFCc3_8sJcr3Fh0lID9kBShaRzNsGIA/s1209/20230715_122136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIPjtUqE-XlPCebcZlw511Iqfx9GEuDuwiOtzm2L3tr7Ylf8ZKFge87R1QAMgLwBLVLNRGzl5DdTlLd6wPmS27GwRSyA52C1RCNngI199-aIdqeIWnLaybPPM_j_2H7zd5cPdLPhxqhcsPnVEr72UHTW5JLKkcOFCc3_8sJcr3Fh0lID9kBShaRzNsGIA/s320/20230715_122136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Dr3qPh7t52xdxafxN3JRSKMwhYT0QAgAnHWK8GYkGq9Mvr08XRy-4CQhQIWlaWWGizPTC9x4cj_lqYNvUJgjulmzf5FtqNrCmjhh-1hiIQSjbQugYdLim-o6YINzOYf-MZyvBzg9UqL963WBpbxi-gPpUp4GUNJUUwafeYtC0cAzkjYmd_sGe9witPE/s979/20230715_122142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Dr3qPh7t52xdxafxN3JRSKMwhYT0QAgAnHWK8GYkGq9Mvr08XRy-4CQhQIWlaWWGizPTC9x4cj_lqYNvUJgjulmzf5FtqNrCmjhh-1hiIQSjbQugYdLim-o6YINzOYf-MZyvBzg9UqL963WBpbxi-gPpUp4GUNJUUwafeYtC0cAzkjYmd_sGe9witPE/s320/20230715_122142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67uqBkewVgBwoud4gWx31ZW37Bp55NTf4WMgWedQ5PQAffnNGoBhr7-_dxQP2OmSqxQcuL-YBoUy_LryjwXBWCdFb8qrIkkiN956F3jpFb-ujjKXtDwxfMd0qyFt418NDC5UYA2HXtGGMqXnaUFUy7qqsLQAtQZZR0qIb1Ey7as5n93jIy6-C7iC8TsQ/s1210/20230715_122448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi67uqBkewVgBwoud4gWx31ZW37Bp55NTf4WMgWedQ5PQAffnNGoBhr7-_dxQP2OmSqxQcuL-YBoUy_LryjwXBWCdFb8qrIkkiN956F3jpFb-ujjKXtDwxfMd0qyFt418NDC5UYA2HXtGGMqXnaUFUy7qqsLQAtQZZR0qIb1Ey7as5n93jIy6-C7iC8TsQ/s320/20230715_122448.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFq8GJ-WmNcHWwFj8hXP6tR7yOEwSz4Nhn1GYJuG5dd30i6e0ACdNLOXxEeqhShSeFRPWqXVIOcWnWBmvAAJGplE7xKeZdV6m-BK4n7fZwj06y5sN6VsMWhPT-a2PuHCwiJNAhhQyn7QUGYQpfJH4WmxTPdlBHd-3EJ5KBmrfQATiTyxlc1aJ4LYTbMjE/s1209/20230715_122940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFq8GJ-WmNcHWwFj8hXP6tR7yOEwSz4Nhn1GYJuG5dd30i6e0ACdNLOXxEeqhShSeFRPWqXVIOcWnWBmvAAJGplE7xKeZdV6m-BK4n7fZwj06y5sN6VsMWhPT-a2PuHCwiJNAhhQyn7QUGYQpfJH4WmxTPdlBHd-3EJ5KBmrfQATiTyxlc1aJ4LYTbMjE/s320/20230715_122940.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Proseguendo, si incontrano altri gruppi di edifici, costruiti dai sovrani successivi. Il fratello e successore del re giaguaro-serpente fu catturato e giustiziato a Toninà, ma, nel 722, il re Lago della Tartaruga ara portò Palenque a un nuovo periodo di splendore, costruendo altri templi. La città fu abbandonata a partire dal 900 d.C.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkHnvfk4x7TaceKljlYeH-7_kgL9CFrfQ41bdYIv3t6LSXqXDL3uACmYLVOss9zGqI233aT3KssivJdv0zIz6ullPqlq2R7623van3EnZ_cNX7ViYQPasdkI0QDBRdAhxztmCzNLRcx3xcOg1-6XEb-iZZ6MxMuKywrGpO1WLIOAv0ZSVuxJfN96vpnk/s1209/20230715_124157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpkHnvfk4x7TaceKljlYeH-7_kgL9CFrfQ41bdYIv3t6LSXqXDL3uACmYLVOss9zGqI233aT3KssivJdv0zIz6ullPqlq2R7623van3EnZ_cNX7ViYQPasdkI0QDBRdAhxztmCzNLRcx3xcOg1-6XEb-iZZ6MxMuKywrGpO1WLIOAv0ZSVuxJfN96vpnk/s320/20230715_124157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiAhtuLvC4j_RRPSn2BBg978fuokO2bhpkATDBhlxfFEpQfXi4MESW_26Dh7EVUB33lSgRvSEebNZ5Tg4g4W4uQnmtkG3cER54nM1yexDb9sy6ea8X43zoYL9zqprVujV23uFt_D5s4oCiOhajc5gG6YlysNJGByQUb8H4vWs_YnWVPwhZm6JixUNjBg/s1209/20230715_124657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiAhtuLvC4j_RRPSn2BBg978fuokO2bhpkATDBhlxfFEpQfXi4MESW_26Dh7EVUB33lSgRvSEebNZ5Tg4g4W4uQnmtkG3cER54nM1yexDb9sy6ea8X43zoYL9zqprVujV23uFt_D5s4oCiOhajc5gG6YlysNJGByQUb8H4vWs_YnWVPwhZm6JixUNjBg/s320/20230715_124657.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">juego de la pelota</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Trattandosi di una delle aree più piovose del Messico, la giungla si rimangiò tutto, fino al 1746, quando alcuni cacciatori indigeni rivelarono al sacerdote spagnolo Antonio de Solis la presenza di palazzi nella selva. Gli esploratori giunti sull'onda del romanticismo vaneggiarono e vagheggiarono di una perduta Atlantide, al punto che un eccentrico conte de Waldeck, sessantenne, per due anni (1831-33) si trasferì a vivere sulla sommità di una piramide. Solo in seguito il sito fu studiato in modo scientifico, e ancora oggi gli scavi sono in corso.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPmKqIlXQZDbAkwHBfitYzVEfTI89YOdxJieh0yYnJ9QWRdc0leAkm_Ion9vCjekbcmzEIMIEeLU-ZSRvtkCZUavrVrHRSOPYOwKZc5jyUpIivOmh7UBR0v5aUENo-vXOf4yhB3o6UpoJBc3AZJ0reIO_MnxX-dyyY_MkPeWjZwf760a68EKKVRJdTS4/s1209/20230715_131325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPmKqIlXQZDbAkwHBfitYzVEfTI89YOdxJieh0yYnJ9QWRdc0leAkm_Ion9vCjekbcmzEIMIEeLU-ZSRvtkCZUavrVrHRSOPYOwKZc5jyUpIivOmh7UBR0v5aUENo-vXOf4yhB3o6UpoJBc3AZJ0reIO_MnxX-dyyY_MkPeWjZwf760a68EKKVRJdTS4/s320/20230715_131325.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLiDEiBCYKwkvDbgo8jnOT-grVdOfeTdiO2cgq-OFHD6N7c3Lwqm0Zr7GT5jnzdAJxOGI3U0gSVZChhjTau2yoWk20hjVpDSQT-ruylMg2aeE-nzhS_PIPga2K53p6gxoQnLV7y4H_xikiAbuI1OBWeokV3XwcM8m4WG_Z5W9pQ8L3CJ0fkxGZUp2-IE/s1209/20230715_131457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLiDEiBCYKwkvDbgo8jnOT-grVdOfeTdiO2cgq-OFHD6N7c3Lwqm0Zr7GT5jnzdAJxOGI3U0gSVZChhjTau2yoWk20hjVpDSQT-ruylMg2aeE-nzhS_PIPga2K53p6gxoQnLV7y4H_xikiAbuI1OBWeokV3XwcM8m4WG_Z5W9pQ8L3CJ0fkxGZUp2-IE/s320/20230715_131457.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QzHhn558TaEApvAA0-ZDn7vJdDKaXxc1TooUlYlPh5GZ61PO7GIXOVnpE5RDl5zNqzzGwArMs3tQGz9-7z9hz4ADPmhqPz6-gBet7YyaQsyvI2Z7HSlEyb-viE7dmX6M6Ut6Oud74Ui-4Hep_dfzGYVcThD6Fa14CkhRtAXWNbbQUo4SE3MObrOZ7ek/s1209/20230715_131529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QzHhn558TaEApvAA0-ZDn7vJdDKaXxc1TooUlYlPh5GZ61PO7GIXOVnpE5RDl5zNqzzGwArMs3tQGz9-7z9hz4ADPmhqPz6-gBet7YyaQsyvI2Z7HSlEyb-viE7dmX6M6Ut6Oud74Ui-4Hep_dfzGYVcThD6Fa14CkhRtAXWNbbQUo4SE3MObrOZ7ek/s320/20230715_131529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijX6dHdh1KugotfdsSc07GesrpcyFflZ6lvD1EXW4hnsT0kS1nCSHU6VQVaTOdhcJGFpXIQ7KXkElxhuQkC2j2g-Lv31RkT3sTh64GApTtSkNVcxY62C0SyhbkPauBzfEm0Mw6wUeaR9cf5VUAw3Mrrj17WHYaBs9VmcmnGjF0ou9JVezNva4qKLep3Pc/s1209/20230715_131631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijX6dHdh1KugotfdsSc07GesrpcyFflZ6lvD1EXW4hnsT0kS1nCSHU6VQVaTOdhcJGFpXIQ7KXkElxhuQkC2j2g-Lv31RkT3sTh64GApTtSkNVcxY62C0SyhbkPauBzfEm0Mw6wUeaR9cf5VUAw3Mrrj17WHYaBs9VmcmnGjF0ou9JVezNva4qKLep3Pc/s320/20230715_131631.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo diverse ore di esplorazione, affascinati tanto dalle pietre antiche quanto dalla natura, decidiamo di uscire per goderci anche il museo del sito, il cui biglietto è incluso in quello già pagato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtVMi53lkpeyixtDfshXkddsi76d2mGmqhXNSnSorAQpsF6xWH9pgoC7fXsTLrWiBfw6KlbrveXVBsWH_KJXUF8pa2imoEWRe5hulFCn_L1C-wkDgHKgVDRpVARk5SVsJk092LZqqcb5sJ-4tU89pvfUGOLuPD1S5GWHChVksNlTIj3IYGgbwp1AwjZ0/s1209/20230715_132638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtVMi53lkpeyixtDfshXkddsi76d2mGmqhXNSnSorAQpsF6xWH9pgoC7fXsTLrWiBfw6KlbrveXVBsWH_KJXUF8pa2imoEWRe5hulFCn_L1C-wkDgHKgVDRpVARk5SVsJk092LZqqcb5sJ-4tU89pvfUGOLuPD1S5GWHChVksNlTIj3IYGgbwp1AwjZ0/s320/20230715_132638.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjRJWbJY8G7_y3XzkJJ1KV3p8ftF0yDABagDfyWcFwcxiSJHTghtFWnij7zm4PgakqUmPruSIqFxZgTj5vv9_KFg0K7_HgiMxVQgTZMZ3cQmbHax4bTfHhwjQ4SWLmDaPz07HrNs2MaVCpRlvPKsZueUOb3DQK_V32c99s_MjQ6bFwcOIHhS43pQo3TiM/s1209/20230715_132658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjRJWbJY8G7_y3XzkJJ1KV3p8ftF0yDABagDfyWcFwcxiSJHTghtFWnij7zm4PgakqUmPruSIqFxZgTj5vv9_KFg0K7_HgiMxVQgTZMZ3cQmbHax4bTfHhwjQ4SWLmDaPz07HrNs2MaVCpRlvPKsZueUOb3DQK_V32c99s_MjQ6bFwcOIHhS43pQo3TiM/s320/20230715_132658.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMJlGfI5NJvfDNsYA2H1AalKbjuIBCHgEuvE6vF49U6aorPgMTlabO1CV_g6xXHHXonwJ-bboeEBtlsqyA5OmUAMErNv60H1W20virbz-r8NgDFia6fo6RpDub4Lr-lfoe4SNtHW8r-09lNWi2VamFkA_v6S_UQaoy_jxazsXDaVcItACn77JfrJvUyL8/s1209/20230715_132719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMJlGfI5NJvfDNsYA2H1AalKbjuIBCHgEuvE6vF49U6aorPgMTlabO1CV_g6xXHHXonwJ-bboeEBtlsqyA5OmUAMErNv60H1W20virbz-r8NgDFia6fo6RpDub4Lr-lfoe4SNtHW8r-09lNWi2VamFkA_v6S_UQaoy_jxazsXDaVcItACn77JfrJvUyL8/s320/20230715_132719.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8xw7-siyiEfsgwIQUw1TI0auTMM5mVJeZl72Q6NPwEufEvdFbelJwFyK3ZMYPAZ996f9slRbvKgEWfNZJVks47w1fB82XOiBYNHOh_LKCA_4GJBfWRmkE_V0QpyxGkbqx2yPp84_-l80vcpupldNrVpMp4kxZYGFD1ykSOjYcOpqsZ9Z19fPm4IdAuM/s1209/20230715_132822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8xw7-siyiEfsgwIQUw1TI0auTMM5mVJeZl72Q6NPwEufEvdFbelJwFyK3ZMYPAZ996f9slRbvKgEWfNZJVks47w1fB82XOiBYNHOh_LKCA_4GJBfWRmkE_V0QpyxGkbqx2yPp84_-l80vcpupldNrVpMp4kxZYGFD1ykSOjYcOpqsZ9Z19fPm4IdAuM/s320/20230715_132822.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passate le orde di venditori e ridiscesa la stradella fino alla biglietteria, troviamo un po' di frescura nelle ampie sale che espongono i reperti trovati a Palenque, o, in alcuni casi, la loro riproduzione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_R7oDKgXyJdTFMI0qybmoMz9iw8ophDl5-siNSuBTvSRV5vENF4gCPVRkX2b0v7rKp_-895q7GExllwsJlkMJ3y36MF4BpZd1kchQ1rO0WpIHEPDxoGKjS8PTMg3qGP-6fWA61mNPicsp9Le2aVHBNQyaAULnjfb3V0p71n4hhd5aalzqUgUO2uUEtU/s1209/20230715_133543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_R7oDKgXyJdTFMI0qybmoMz9iw8ophDl5-siNSuBTvSRV5vENF4gCPVRkX2b0v7rKp_-895q7GExllwsJlkMJ3y36MF4BpZd1kchQ1rO0WpIHEPDxoGKjS8PTMg3qGP-6fWA61mNPicsp9Le2aVHBNQyaAULnjfb3V0p71n4hhd5aalzqUgUO2uUEtU/s320/20230715_133543.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSOA87kbIdR94Ci2dwyVrE3etVWudtuC7XSA2ZG_ViR3fGyxYDGmbFxYS6jYJuK0rw0p6wxVPRc61wgVL0IgI57rk9tBbvmG0NflHtE4A4lKRVA6KxF_lF663w-_eS8Kv8xx4aBWgLf5TqlDo7O9CF3O_HuVx3xhwWB9KFO7COmnQoK0wTOLeGQb4CfmQ/s1209/20230715_135440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSOA87kbIdR94Ci2dwyVrE3etVWudtuC7XSA2ZG_ViR3fGyxYDGmbFxYS6jYJuK0rw0p6wxVPRc61wgVL0IgI57rk9tBbvmG0NflHtE4A4lKRVA6KxF_lF663w-_eS8Kv8xx4aBWgLf5TqlDo7O9CF3O_HuVx3xhwWB9KFO7COmnQoK0wTOLeGQb4CfmQ/s320/20230715_135440.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAhTyIkb4MQ0DUfWp4bGx_bhkxJLorX3OkqY9UrDMrIriooOA2_C07E4G36Zrvw5mqGbngTyTPXoRtEiUK5wO9gbYR2I7wwimwdhwZjG1mbzu32GBIGkEUbpd1ocze2oUJ_Dc-fq1CgviozC4hkYMg29WIu5CUZCmm20uCfhlkJgj45PMBHyD4Mnn0uc/s1209/20230715_135519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMAhTyIkb4MQ0DUfWp4bGx_bhkxJLorX3OkqY9UrDMrIriooOA2_C07E4G36Zrvw5mqGbngTyTPXoRtEiUK5wO9gbYR2I7wwimwdhwZjG1mbzu32GBIGkEUbpd1ocze2oUJ_Dc-fq1CgviozC4hkYMg29WIu5CUZCmm20uCfhlkJgj45PMBHyD4Mnn0uc/s320/20230715_135519.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbLNCRADgCQge_0osMJB56lyzAwN4BPi1MXB77nP3LUyMPNCcMC-p7wYX-MG1_Huf9SK8pZsE7xqAqAbo9ZICIOe8JReGCoMTOzEyeoavSEmBy6wZoQqLar6nUp8qfAR_wFTwEKcJ-8tDTOqj2-vncbsC_kBi0QKRgFoWMPpMAObtrJ0qyi3bR4-xYXg/s1209/20230715_135644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbLNCRADgCQge_0osMJB56lyzAwN4BPi1MXB77nP3LUyMPNCcMC-p7wYX-MG1_Huf9SK8pZsE7xqAqAbo9ZICIOe8JReGCoMTOzEyeoavSEmBy6wZoQqLar6nUp8qfAR_wFTwEKcJ-8tDTOqj2-vncbsC_kBi0QKRgFoWMPpMAObtrJ0qyi3bR4-xYXg/s320/20230715_135644.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">glifi che compongono le iscrizioni</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wxeF09mRWwIgFyBDNY-5HXUeIS0RAQYOmHE4edlROSAtg29Dj765ncEckMa3rL9MxnqoMOGonhuvG5IBwd-vvyKdJ0Z6FldKa7jwcoqc_y4jOToHU6pYRHVobVPv3RyAIUAJg9PFVVrFlezbRIXm8ocNDnz8r9cuu3O4ysSrewp2kGYL5ERRTLfORSw/s1209/20230715_135708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wxeF09mRWwIgFyBDNY-5HXUeIS0RAQYOmHE4edlROSAtg29Dj765ncEckMa3rL9MxnqoMOGonhuvG5IBwd-vvyKdJ0Z6FldKa7jwcoqc_y4jOToHU6pYRHVobVPv3RyAIUAJg9PFVVrFlezbRIXm8ocNDnz8r9cuu3O4ysSrewp2kGYL5ERRTLfORSw/s320/20230715_135708.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMhOxY6xf83cPa3dXuB-TH-HSB1xpMKXBX0o9AW_egHCgscQtq7BbMkMVPebYLSu9QoemIbrgZawidQrFjp9pcyvZCEf8GoFO29QDa_RYhfB_9zTa_N-Dok0lRcKoPXhUoL_vJWkraLhFrxMhW3P6CbYfpONejisGQ5jTufa_NsqmArCI6YxD8sEW9J8/s1209/20230715_135738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMhOxY6xf83cPa3dXuB-TH-HSB1xpMKXBX0o9AW_egHCgscQtq7BbMkMVPebYLSu9QoemIbrgZawidQrFjp9pcyvZCEf8GoFO29QDa_RYhfB_9zTa_N-Dok0lRcKoPXhUoL_vJWkraLhFrxMhW3P6CbYfpONejisGQ5jTufa_NsqmArCI6YxD8sEW9J8/s320/20230715_135738.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitd2a-b-yqvuBphhUP6iZ_00oqm08GPAgMIs3HJ4JotKcxE83j8WIr-ryRTZY25X1_znfJZfhuvJ2AeZnqKDAtiL4rqnuU7qQOpxwWdl0evrDEWH67VM9ArrbOfQxwAHf_W2_4zea26RgQGkOnBaJrGfnnJpeJFEcxrluAQMLYQ1OSKrAy9j0Y7J59Duo/s1209/20230715_135827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitd2a-b-yqvuBphhUP6iZ_00oqm08GPAgMIs3HJ4JotKcxE83j8WIr-ryRTZY25X1_znfJZfhuvJ2AeZnqKDAtiL4rqnuU7qQOpxwWdl0evrDEWH67VM9ArrbOfQxwAHf_W2_4zea26RgQGkOnBaJrGfnnJpeJFEcxrluAQMLYQ1OSKrAy9j0Y7J59Duo/s320/20230715_135827.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">stucchi che ornavano i palazzi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0TtmpugNz-zhUekjWTm-Vtbx0hdMJRHZAtm5wSMYa5Fh9aBiSnslQ-UGawtCdrpBvcgo15aB5zlQcEA56MY3z-3kftMWOxCDAQhT-uZParQDbJxoQJorOseQ5NC5pWdx2f2groWRdNQMuTXRoUBGl0_iuCRi_SN3Z-WKjainGVQujIGi7re5tGCAw0jU/s1209/20230715_135937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0TtmpugNz-zhUekjWTm-Vtbx0hdMJRHZAtm5wSMYa5Fh9aBiSnslQ-UGawtCdrpBvcgo15aB5zlQcEA56MY3z-3kftMWOxCDAQhT-uZParQDbJxoQJorOseQ5NC5pWdx2f2groWRdNQMuTXRoUBGl0_iuCRi_SN3Z-WKjainGVQujIGi7re5tGCAw0jU/s320/20230715_135937.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTz5ZyzF7_xLWNyUdm60dJGmaHI5tZ4-9VchLf_CYoBvfHpQyH_FYSS7vcoNl_z8CBVCpbpQ3-NHO1rkvdFsSK-BqYTcr04weNtirs1IGaQGEG5bGqWlU8z9xFBisSHR05G81iWqBTgz4Xi2vrTN_4PmENZQa3pm9-M2gjKAtUSIwhZbn4hO74c9WnP0/s1209/20230715_140003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTz5ZyzF7_xLWNyUdm60dJGmaHI5tZ4-9VchLf_CYoBvfHpQyH_FYSS7vcoNl_z8CBVCpbpQ3-NHO1rkvdFsSK-BqYTcr04weNtirs1IGaQGEG5bGqWlU8z9xFBisSHR05G81iWqBTgz4Xi2vrTN_4PmENZQa3pm9-M2gjKAtUSIwhZbn4hO74c9WnP0/s320/20230715_140003.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">incensieri (tantissimi, e che spettacolo!)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkPPTMZyp-B7kH5Eiq7V-1G15unA0AtqtbpBCFRP7EXdeI-gmUmySICdgx-pWM3jTnsvyE99D_lz3PJjkGA2GoCMKI7XJyFOw064Suk7Da4EpH-UMYSQjym3LMmzx1nPLYpkhc7uu6oVjHdL9belfxOgymArXST9NPlSbmkCMO56S-EIifG9pf8M7nLfU/s1209/20230715_140052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkPPTMZyp-B7kH5Eiq7V-1G15unA0AtqtbpBCFRP7EXdeI-gmUmySICdgx-pWM3jTnsvyE99D_lz3PJjkGA2GoCMKI7XJyFOw064Suk7Da4EpH-UMYSQjym3LMmzx1nPLYpkhc7uu6oVjHdL9belfxOgymArXST9NPlSbmkCMO56S-EIifG9pf8M7nLfU/s320/20230715_140052.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipTHVbFKSx6wsReJFi43ux1vc3CEGwA1uTY_0gmLqKiHcPX9z28gi6NYCDqeN3Rzavvi1XgNj_XC6wAbs8LkwTP9LXbhaUcrvW93Oq13viRotRzVkcTRaBMn2fimPuAlSTOkpmb_SAM7zu4qQV-yV0zValTXAWwWRQ0m22hiPpGAJ275_g9UyQ6zWEjRw/s1209/20230715_140144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipTHVbFKSx6wsReJFi43ux1vc3CEGwA1uTY_0gmLqKiHcPX9z28gi6NYCDqeN3Rzavvi1XgNj_XC6wAbs8LkwTP9LXbhaUcrvW93Oq13viRotRzVkcTRaBMn2fimPuAlSTOkpmb_SAM7zu4qQV-yV0zValTXAWwWRQ0m22hiPpGAJ275_g9UyQ6zWEjRw/s320/20230715_140144.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHl3DXH8mUt-LLN8yDmoC92clqNuBPtXC_zCKDRh0nmbsD7PkpE0jA5E9h9XgZ8IXdiur2FV-f5CXrRbAiziElxyq_Zz6P2HoM1Ym-l6vWK4Mo5j003xxcWDPvuA7PWLhlSW4S996HinT1jRxP85U98z3Lp4gidbb0EckJrOc9eFlT_6xlS1EkYbfJWuQ/s1209/20230715_140203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHl3DXH8mUt-LLN8yDmoC92clqNuBPtXC_zCKDRh0nmbsD7PkpE0jA5E9h9XgZ8IXdiur2FV-f5CXrRbAiziElxyq_Zz6P2HoM1Ym-l6vWK4Mo5j003xxcWDPvuA7PWLhlSW4S996HinT1jRxP85U98z3Lp4gidbb0EckJrOc9eFlT_6xlS1EkYbfJWuQ/s320/20230715_140203.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgAg20mPIz6n2XQNEJPwJk8nSYGIGJPBHB4zoRBd7vkzOGPyNlpUKMA4WJM0FkZ7v7MKAapQ1pH-qDA3XsjAs0zUisdB_ntClILT6Govw7CjwDfDlXssIbxc5j630mtlNCYvWg9136BUq9y6wsKiFR0bYPSSjBRh5o43m7VZf4h_rSTViZUer0RdPZ7wU/s1209/20230715_140252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgAg20mPIz6n2XQNEJPwJk8nSYGIGJPBHB4zoRBd7vkzOGPyNlpUKMA4WJM0FkZ7v7MKAapQ1pH-qDA3XsjAs0zUisdB_ntClILT6Govw7CjwDfDlXssIbxc5j630mtlNCYvWg9136BUq9y6wsKiFR0bYPSSjBRh5o43m7VZf4h_rSTViZUer0RdPZ7wU/s320/20230715_140252.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxoPc8-T7EJc0E8jeH5JbqKUh87AV_j3dBupZSE4b2Q-VmydvFvmrVJ_0xNjdzJaHkOBbL25Tr4ZTC9AfKVaCaJlfZxVHMmoVEYF2_WA6BoFp_faUJcDQA5u6qNmFrQkU3F2FGzQroySmM9T0tUlePqvmHHMFgsk5NS_WsTC96_Dqemt6W_aVCfcDqass/s1209/20230715_140610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxoPc8-T7EJc0E8jeH5JbqKUh87AV_j3dBupZSE4b2Q-VmydvFvmrVJ_0xNjdzJaHkOBbL25Tr4ZTC9AfKVaCaJlfZxVHMmoVEYF2_WA6BoFp_faUJcDQA5u6qNmFrQkU3F2FGzQroySmM9T0tUlePqvmHHMFgsk5NS_WsTC96_Dqemt6W_aVCfcDqass/s320/20230715_140610.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'enorme sarcofago di Pakal, con iscritta e raffigurata la sua storia e quella della città</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFUEgcQjuF4nVxPnJvXyGkQmlY4f5-2roFk7VLUBzBlIhjtno45xLoOXfRDvswHLqgN2e9sxqUTd9D09TdxsnNFzrXmEgkKHlLqrqdt4eZLWOTMZsoZ9vKl76ahWBF2efrnrlrXvnuAKE07keiK32Z6UTMMykvice7UBaWY6XztnhmJYhd6jS6W1NK2XM/s1209/20230715_140616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFUEgcQjuF4nVxPnJvXyGkQmlY4f5-2roFk7VLUBzBlIhjtno45xLoOXfRDvswHLqgN2e9sxqUTd9D09TdxsnNFzrXmEgkKHlLqrqdt4eZLWOTMZsoZ9vKl76ahWBF2efrnrlrXvnuAKE07keiK32Z6UTMMykvice7UBaWY6XztnhmJYhd6jS6W1NK2XM/s320/20230715_140616.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi102aPJ4lTAdYBM-LrcGkgQgZ5wjIpDzneJ9N8ZuBZ4yWa0S-yb_g4WellRxRRmxAhIg8FkM8yxtUhfp6tIHnng1ABmvDGGsdA-wdXYQ_KgfWU7PK6X5zg5LntZ4rAEE-tijYqD1KGNgFppK9A9Uj5TfwjQk0_TsVjbKjBAJ1WR3dGdjytoWRjLVY_zPE/s1209/20230715_140818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi102aPJ4lTAdYBM-LrcGkgQgZ5wjIpDzneJ9N8ZuBZ4yWa0S-yb_g4WellRxRRmxAhIg8FkM8yxtUhfp6tIHnng1ABmvDGGsdA-wdXYQ_KgfWU7PK6X5zg5LntZ4rAEE-tijYqD1KGNgFppK9A9Uj5TfwjQk0_TsVjbKjBAJ1WR3dGdjytoWRjLVY_zPE/s320/20230715_140818.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOvAX-UgsUNkeVFNUOGMGlbwpHQ8cDLhOS4YYEV8zc61yINFts6zxTLOYVa2ehVYI426ANUQeksluqQMcOSSJdr3StVcAhDwyG-73wzrDWHX6EyXN0Osfi7fhSrP7JT5Bo7G0mnVCA7N7dtG1paPfQfdE2Pe58OvAoVVYPUHf683DtomXBd58ALxdT--w/s1209/20230715_140827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOvAX-UgsUNkeVFNUOGMGlbwpHQ8cDLhOS4YYEV8zc61yINFts6zxTLOYVa2ehVYI426ANUQeksluqQMcOSSJdr3StVcAhDwyG-73wzrDWHX6EyXN0Osfi7fhSrP7JT5Bo7G0mnVCA7N7dtG1paPfQfdE2Pe58OvAoVVYPUHf683DtomXBd58ALxdT--w/s320/20230715_140827.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1lE4lM-5EGgB0dRxsT0KuxvfwQQXkkSeefaZ5ro--i9ZW3Kx0bJgvcEl4VOHzvwSg4z-KhsIw-1Jx6Q10H_2-SLiI1t-x1w47c1glBrn98E_Qea_gnw-eA9P16K7BtcBIAdWgm4brKiwebv_LiK01PTxE87Y8DZD68FNhzcN3xfRIS5kAWSdGAhqtIio/s1209/20230715_141007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1lE4lM-5EGgB0dRxsT0KuxvfwQQXkkSeefaZ5ro--i9ZW3Kx0bJgvcEl4VOHzvwSg4z-KhsIw-1Jx6Q10H_2-SLiI1t-x1w47c1glBrn98E_Qea_gnw-eA9P16K7BtcBIAdWgm4brKiwebv_LiK01PTxE87Y8DZD68FNhzcN3xfRIS5kAWSdGAhqtIio/s320/20230715_141007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBswvQwz0Qc2aNZpXNQUmmttBXjxcClUm8MbLNxU8IODHcGf4ez7recVL3tRNcPNkqB7QExSP8LODwISnScieumYmqtMheu3Jwj2NednbgMq1HjbPgtwJfS1KM8-kX6AuaVdYTBuf7xbw6aSygJQ_la0tEZX7VbyG_92MqMwMDOHIO8BZelAyPJKWrMo/s1209/20230715_141307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIBswvQwz0Qc2aNZpXNQUmmttBXjxcClUm8MbLNxU8IODHcGf4ez7recVL3tRNcPNkqB7QExSP8LODwISnScieumYmqtMheu3Jwj2NednbgMq1HjbPgtwJfS1KM8-kX6AuaVdYTBuf7xbw6aSygJQ_la0tEZX7VbyG_92MqMwMDOHIO8BZelAyPJKWrMo/s320/20230715_141307.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finita la visita, siamo abbastanza provati. Alla fermata, che inneggia agli zapatisti, saltiamo sul primo colectivo e torniamo in città. Sul combis due campesini discutono: uno ha trovato una piccola volpe della selva (come quelle che abbiamo visto nella riserva di Calakmul) ferita, e l'ha portata a casa, messa in una scatola e coperta con panni morbidi. Ora sta chiedendo all'amico cosa possa darle da mangiare. "Come pollo!". "Pollo?". "Sì sì, pollo seria perfecto".</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivsu0ffxc6GnL0BNQqwu6OHa6VDMxnuXBuBGNqZTGNqTWxDOZOA0QgS3yZBWJRXp8C-w6MOjC-AXSeMbAeqf3LHFBvJl5Gyam8YOewOGa1gY3w9IuQHzi26FrDccXSsMbVjZ7HDJ3Hh44SNQLCB9gXjLGTSRFzTdtefSg159xdRNoupbt_sFRK93qc_xI/s1209/20230715_142956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivsu0ffxc6GnL0BNQqwu6OHa6VDMxnuXBuBGNqZTGNqTWxDOZOA0QgS3yZBWJRXp8C-w6MOjC-AXSeMbAeqf3LHFBvJl5Gyam8YOewOGa1gY3w9IuQHzi26FrDccXSsMbVjZ7HDJ3Hh44SNQLCB9gXjLGTSRFzTdtefSg159xdRNoupbt_sFRK93qc_xI/s320/20230715_142956.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Appena rientrati nel pueblo, ci lanciamo in un locale per riposare un po'. Ne approfitto per togliermi uno sfizio che da giorni mi rode: che sapore la tipica bevanda chiapaneca, il tazcalate? E' un intruglio fresco con cacao, mais tostato, pinoli, achiote (annatto), vaniglia e latte. E' super dissetante e dà una bella botta di energia. Quel che mi serve per affrontare il resto della giornata nonostante il broncoscolo. Gigi si "limita" a tè freddo e una sorta di creme caramel.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFQ8lFwO-nidWoQen7J099AOAqEckBXmEAgVJbhmoug5csf_Jpkun9JvocS0aEGl3LjdXn-4wEC6opPX6jmoQMa9FI9VeAKDWnukaYHznmkj5cfrBm0YT6kN5kDSFAj5Tw1fa487dxh-MJjVV7Ysvc9yqw_5KA86dqn6aEVViIQiUmqOQesfOVu9Jjow/s1209/20230715_145940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFQ8lFwO-nidWoQen7J099AOAqEckBXmEAgVJbhmoug5csf_Jpkun9JvocS0aEGl3LjdXn-4wEC6opPX6jmoQMa9FI9VeAKDWnukaYHznmkj5cfrBm0YT6kN5kDSFAj5Tw1fa487dxh-MJjVV7Ysvc9yqw_5KA86dqn6aEVViIQiUmqOQesfOVu9Jjow/s320/20230715_145940.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMv6KZtZVr1xbBBQZ8ZID1EoXztVXCIQDkxdgsPM5ZJU3EyCKvzWxkdM3SbtfjBWvfWCfbjwQPcKBF5bX-QVFX5jMN-g3849n5Z3VZEk3J8RMKhrRULlsVRaj049-Lia-zExeQDVU2sSRUq9olrAUyc1AYQQoSPnvQ3UdxcG3Mq4AM67zFMmeA-4p_COA/s1209/20230715_150450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMv6KZtZVr1xbBBQZ8ZID1EoXztVXCIQDkxdgsPM5ZJU3EyCKvzWxkdM3SbtfjBWvfWCfbjwQPcKBF5bX-QVFX5jMN-g3849n5Z3VZEk3J8RMKhrRULlsVRaj049-Lia-zExeQDVU2sSRUq9olrAUyc1AYQQoSPnvQ3UdxcG3Mq4AM67zFMmeA-4p_COA/s320/20230715_150450.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM72HUOWdqi6Gur38ImIHQFPJ4CZ2hr-fkKltet6_k3FOY3IoSqQKlW9gSOzWnA3KRHJInRMw15GlUdP2kuNLpGCy2jjVVSYA-h3NM2bi6odI6YwE39J8W3WOUjh3GBlvDTz-5cPlj4oX8jnYW3bZtS65_JnQY8hUzD8oC3nT1MSYpqYPn3pzUI4tco_E/s1210/20230715_150705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM72HUOWdqi6Gur38ImIHQFPJ4CZ2hr-fkKltet6_k3FOY3IoSqQKlW9gSOzWnA3KRHJInRMw15GlUdP2kuNLpGCy2jjVVSYA-h3NM2bi6odI6YwE39J8W3WOUjh3GBlvDTz-5cPlj4oX8jnYW3bZtS65_JnQY8hUzD8oC3nT1MSYpqYPn3pzUI4tco_E/s320/20230715_150705.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhIPB97k5DIK6GAGZxp8CkwS0p8RDP2uCblP9BOfirHwFBB1bYk2aP3CwzqUzCgjNut63I9uaBukenyfaXaBo7tnbhwefWGReTKM7Mq4mYZDK0prl5ul4tDmdHDItyD-_dZCBWHGttEerxsmiVjbFEegj-uKkCchcQMwEkFcQZEMXiUIv2JjuOLJf8Gs/s1209/20230715_150754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhIPB97k5DIK6GAGZxp8CkwS0p8RDP2uCblP9BOfirHwFBB1bYk2aP3CwzqUzCgjNut63I9uaBukenyfaXaBo7tnbhwefWGReTKM7Mq4mYZDK0prl5ul4tDmdHDItyD-_dZCBWHGttEerxsmiVjbFEegj-uKkCchcQMwEkFcQZEMXiUIv2JjuOLJf8Gs/s320/20230715_150754.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Salutiamo il mayone e il testone di mayone e ripercorriamo tutta la strada principale, affollata, incasinata, colorata, piena di anime e musica e sofferenza e vita. Palenque pueblo è stata fondata nel 1567 da Pedro Lorenzo, che riunì alcune famiglie chol della zona, che vivevano secondo i loro usi tradizionali. Ancora oggi molti appartenenti alle diverse etnie native si radunano qui per lavorare o vendere i loro prodotti o far l'elemosina. E' la città (non villaggio) dove la povertà è più diffusa. Infatti si assiste a scene finora mai riscontrate qui. Ci sono bimbi, anche piccoli (4-5 anni) che puliscono le strade e raccolgono la plastica, o chiedono una monetina fuori dai negozi. Ci sono donne, e madri, che con numerosa prole fanno lo stesso, o chiedono un'offerta in cambio di una manciata di noccioline o di un braccialetto intrecciato a mano con fili colorati. Qualcosa delle richieste degli zapatisti comincia a farsi chiara, se non lo fosse stata già prima.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisz85GzNC3PawLBQNN5S4gk-EpbMmVDvMaDg1uiKlqKIo74XhtmOrYnMio1vKDHW4dY0x-pz94KkupcBX2ZoTmoCpOW9Tnldsg1ypp5mkOEGFSQ4XmtJBP4jYjDrSGhw42Uq0XTsPjM4pvfjJHG0k1rYPittPixQH_M276mY0O7S9I61OA1CKeM7GU-yA/s1209/20230715_162004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisz85GzNC3PawLBQNN5S4gk-EpbMmVDvMaDg1uiKlqKIo74XhtmOrYnMio1vKDHW4dY0x-pz94KkupcBX2ZoTmoCpOW9Tnldsg1ypp5mkOEGFSQ4XmtJBP4jYjDrSGhw42Uq0XTsPjM4pvfjJHG0k1rYPittPixQH_M276mY0O7S9I61OA1CKeM7GU-yA/s320/20230715_162004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3oIx6IIOqVg3iB9vSS0bH-7R5naV6TJTyQG6geGRrjas-SqrSwxogdyHA3bEXoI2QcFXVOfY6tn_Bd7jTgiFzvqBnAuwyqBo1vP1xchBo1x0yH6fCM-bs_LqPVxrytJb7qKLwRi9FOW5efBKef_BrdEGHTFWyPtq-SZ3V_SAZp0SY6nDwVObIF5zEcA/s1209/20230715_162018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV3oIx6IIOqVg3iB9vSS0bH-7R5naV6TJTyQG6geGRrjas-SqrSwxogdyHA3bEXoI2QcFXVOfY6tn_Bd7jTgiFzvqBnAuwyqBo1vP1xchBo1x0yH6fCM-bs_LqPVxrytJb7qKLwRi9FOW5efBKef_BrdEGHTFWyPtq-SZ3V_SAZp0SY6nDwVObIF5zEcA/s320/20230715_162018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx630D_aBe87ZmbM9OVSpRQnaFXJAJeDogUo9nqcXW5uLOr_j8nzpDrCzteklotkqS3FxHxTuOnBpHSTkv-e_D54H3ELl2_5e5H0Hlzp-H-My4Pw3AfFP7N0JtZ9101FQj_clqBNBl237kwN4LM58Qiwy-Lh6xkwU43KJg001lf5Yg4-uKXuKIImfpPSM/s1209/20230715_163026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx630D_aBe87ZmbM9OVSpRQnaFXJAJeDogUo9nqcXW5uLOr_j8nzpDrCzteklotkqS3FxHxTuOnBpHSTkv-e_D54H3ELl2_5e5H0Hlzp-H-My4Pw3AfFP7N0JtZ9101FQj_clqBNBl237kwN4LM58Qiwy-Lh6xkwU43KJg001lf5Yg4-uKXuKIImfpPSM/s320/20230715_163026.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH8qfZ2wvFPlr7-ETrF7jWiU4Az6jbyBT3KCjRMwXHlq6UIw9dzLGY7zNcZstmamgc6HNWH_QhDdV3tb_ac7dvCQECUDTfG0HaWTe99FUqYYSFUowpey_iiIQVMQzl-6h6EtBgoxSWm5QezZZ6-6m3_pyKQHiKd-9zsBIb3bVn9eApVzzJ3tAygr4hUhE/s1209/20230715_163221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH8qfZ2wvFPlr7-ETrF7jWiU4Az6jbyBT3KCjRMwXHlq6UIw9dzLGY7zNcZstmamgc6HNWH_QhDdV3tb_ac7dvCQECUDTfG0HaWTe99FUqYYSFUowpey_iiIQVMQzl-6h6EtBgoxSWm5QezZZ6-6m3_pyKQHiKd-9zsBIb3bVn9eApVzzJ3tAygr4hUhE/s320/20230715_163221.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExbWoeydRMrhA_PmvaHK_8egyD8YkbNSEV-Npn0ORka65cXmV0xwFDfXG5CMNXLOtn1Q7Ht9cmWwGqK6afO79fRiQdLIW0h3dVrDxruh9eTdt2W6SoPGXY-Af3IgfUijzjT5jULi5fFrA8elvDQb4hSR3o5nKOanD9KGtSzpLf6hHz9ZOIcXjMne9WIc/s1209/20230715_164625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExbWoeydRMrhA_PmvaHK_8egyD8YkbNSEV-Npn0ORka65cXmV0xwFDfXG5CMNXLOtn1Q7Ht9cmWwGqK6afO79fRiQdLIW0h3dVrDxruh9eTdt2W6SoPGXY-Af3IgfUijzjT5jULi5fFrA8elvDQb4hSR3o5nKOanD9KGtSzpLf6hHz9ZOIcXjMne9WIc/s320/20230715_164625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48ynt4pBvZ5azOaK7W2HSEB_aaI7WP-s0YxyB4K9yUHo_8vFumVsoNeqZjC-eahaDwDalsNqsI1yKmPzj1b3wg0RGTaxBbY1bkf_R68od9VmaiI9FyzSDma4Kj8_u6wWgqR3vtBBbd4XLjky9R9gJ9VOFHe9iLXHKjDNVhpTdSmQwEmMpKNGZk-_yZAk/s1209/20230715_164652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48ynt4pBvZ5azOaK7W2HSEB_aaI7WP-s0YxyB4K9yUHo_8vFumVsoNeqZjC-eahaDwDalsNqsI1yKmPzj1b3wg0RGTaxBbY1bkf_R68od9VmaiI9FyzSDma4Kj8_u6wWgqR3vtBBbd4XLjky9R9gJ9VOFHe9iLXHKjDNVhpTdSmQwEmMpKNGZk-_yZAk/s320/20230715_164652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLYFiAyu88q1vMiJW8WeKw9zlHrP2fKROYPcFUu7dFQDcP1AnXHR6WGH_wVUgrAl5Wt3VT-c15O2bR0uYr7Vdq5bY3YdhGcI0rqWuyOBjdQoF3vuCzalL8IRsoYbKmbtwjh4Q2QKyepELIaj8ERADwd_NwBcFMIUmd6OPJCj9NlG1DM74funi8UpaeTpM/s1209/20230715_164724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLYFiAyu88q1vMiJW8WeKw9zlHrP2fKROYPcFUu7dFQDcP1AnXHR6WGH_wVUgrAl5Wt3VT-c15O2bR0uYr7Vdq5bY3YdhGcI0rqWuyOBjdQoF3vuCzalL8IRsoYbKmbtwjh4Q2QKyepELIaj8ERADwd_NwBcFMIUmd6OPJCj9NlG1DM74funi8UpaeTpM/s320/20230715_164724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">A un certo punto si addensa un temporale devastante e il cielo diventa nero, livido, spaventoso. Ci rifugiamo sotto ai portici della piazza centrale, come molti degli ambulanti. Ci troviamo mescolati a questa umanità varia, e siamo comunque quelli meno presentabili, più puzzolenti e più trasandati. Intanto i bimbi giocano sugli scivoli, incuranti della pioggia, mentre le madri li richiamano e loro fingono di non sentire. La scena più antica e universale della storia dell'umanità.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidMr4-zclgxurz73Y0FR1sbusbdbXvHCiqw5B8JI9v7lSTOJM29yEsVtD0o_NPHZSWbAEM2yXiX362TWsIGmhWbLp8YJZb_zPoSO2IqVYKJY7KB8Kl6k3sUaC5VayhMfbT8MDSnh8-Qdfx3Ss-_nrwTTSfujTGtDCznMVQG73XiPtFyxSMxvE4bTgWgyA/s1209/20230715_165016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidMr4-zclgxurz73Y0FR1sbusbdbXvHCiqw5B8JI9v7lSTOJM29yEsVtD0o_NPHZSWbAEM2yXiX362TWsIGmhWbLp8YJZb_zPoSO2IqVYKJY7KB8Kl6k3sUaC5VayhMfbT8MDSnh8-Qdfx3Ss-_nrwTTSfujTGtDCznMVQG73XiPtFyxSMxvE4bTgWgyA/s320/20230715_165016.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiURy4H2O1nPy0G2Jj7ZbP7eMYRtOY2ogOxYlBSoS_IKH2uEgiHdqT0dKxvncqnI7QCs775vpmOnfsxMGJd7wft3B2XkDpXKSCJMYGU5bDKkcW80JjaNS_iiMzxz-kOSnRDdJRU1P0awlXW976jtYWKKXYHwujNOAf6pwiz5wCUcT7i0_Es1LjS4InwfCo/s1209/20230715_165455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiURy4H2O1nPy0G2Jj7ZbP7eMYRtOY2ogOxYlBSoS_IKH2uEgiHdqT0dKxvncqnI7QCs775vpmOnfsxMGJd7wft3B2XkDpXKSCJMYGU5bDKkcW80JjaNS_iiMzxz-kOSnRDdJRU1P0awlXW976jtYWKKXYHwujNOAf6pwiz5wCUcT7i0_Es1LjS4InwfCo/s320/20230715_165455.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passata la buriana, visitiamo la chiesa che conserva una delle tre campane originali con cui gli spagnoli hanno comunicato agli indigeni, che vivevano sparsi nella foresta, la fondazione della città. E' in corso la preparazione di un matrimonio, per cui non ce la sentiamo di entrare a disturbare.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjziVO9cvXb6mETvMXIn-LCJ1qEnUwws5f2z-mz2YQ0NlVkKfjXkx9xAS3MaXN5xfh4VPFyCY2Rh8U9tNPmvQiW56AqyW9vdGiO9qKSUM-wH97u6Cskb8mbV8y47kDVsivnH6s5eBqTauvRmUtzwX11saK3VMZckmPqpi5UT_j3lJfBlJI4BpSkTQnooAg/s1209/20230715_165725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjziVO9cvXb6mETvMXIn-LCJ1qEnUwws5f2z-mz2YQ0NlVkKfjXkx9xAS3MaXN5xfh4VPFyCY2Rh8U9tNPmvQiW56AqyW9vdGiO9qKSUM-wH97u6Cskb8mbV8y47kDVsivnH6s5eBqTauvRmUtzwX11saK3VMZckmPqpi5UT_j3lJfBlJI4BpSkTQnooAg/s320/20230715_165725.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlGTr4ZaG7uHr-26Wl_13G_KuPM0MOY_mFUaeQOhcXgi5lMLuSz2r0CL2MxcGtSPrYS7SbeN_NQB_w3JSJOkbPCaQ1qr8ltK7oMFZTQJX0NK4GYoHzRunjw39cwiiCswPdCqRQubF9Jt7l8nup-NawGYd7JpblUn_mOgDsHWIvi8NgTdGcaQ3r0jo6VIw/s1209/20230715_165900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlGTr4ZaG7uHr-26Wl_13G_KuPM0MOY_mFUaeQOhcXgi5lMLuSz2r0CL2MxcGtSPrYS7SbeN_NQB_w3JSJOkbPCaQ1qr8ltK7oMFZTQJX0NK4GYoHzRunjw39cwiiCswPdCqRQubF9Jt7l8nup-NawGYd7JpblUn_mOgDsHWIvi8NgTdGcaQ3r0jo6VIw/s320/20230715_165900.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzW2dcjetZWEpOkVgt8W3m9cqZFa2unCVdGKHGUpUiK8z4Xp6sln95kKP4NlK5UiUxPPcYnmsGdUpOo-HEF7Why9Pl0Ohd4dHlegavSBnB-EGGX4-KgdudeKWFXtVQ2PTw9QM-gmRfzQ8aGE27qemLfEJqqU8EGUcgVg_cpPfaavel4p33laWMPAQ7Ik/s1209/20230715_170249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzW2dcjetZWEpOkVgt8W3m9cqZFa2unCVdGKHGUpUiK8z4Xp6sln95kKP4NlK5UiUxPPcYnmsGdUpOo-HEF7Why9Pl0Ohd4dHlegavSBnB-EGGX4-KgdudeKWFXtVQ2PTw9QM-gmRfzQ8aGE27qemLfEJqqU8EGUcgVg_cpPfaavel4p33laWMPAQ7Ik/s320/20230715_170249.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver sbrigato un po' di commissioni (ricarica Giga della sim messicana, acquisto batteria per il mio ciclocomputer) torniamo in hotel a recuperare bici e bagagli. Salutiamo, ringraziamo, e siamo pronti per raggiungere la stazione degli autobus ADO, gli unici che raggiungono San Cristobal (ovviamente non via Ocosingo. Ma i bandidos, a forza di rapinette e atti violenti, che ci han guadagnato, così? Ora nessuno passa più di lì... Capisco l'autarchia, ma così non è controproducente?). In stazione, che pare un aeroporto ed è ben migliore delle nostre italiane (penso a Molino Dorino o Lampugnano e mi vengono i brividi), ceniamo. Il ristorante si chiama La mona. Che significa la scimmia, malpensanti!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO4TOrCEgwxyW2abXDYuUFmiQF84LcmKDO8dHvQ-05dkeSdbJpXJrAEq5sI_YY59Hm7-ZPn0qgWPWh_oPZ2aRL2A29UH3_7HHv-41rw6rveSgPOXkHsMWbk62uxjaXgyjd9s87jUfeoSvMpG0sqI8EzziO_ti9lw-RmfpihIFh-n8uuub-PcnbdZGMQ4I/s1209/20230715_185243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO4TOrCEgwxyW2abXDYuUFmiQF84LcmKDO8dHvQ-05dkeSdbJpXJrAEq5sI_YY59Hm7-ZPn0qgWPWh_oPZ2aRL2A29UH3_7HHv-41rw6rveSgPOXkHsMWbk62uxjaXgyjd9s87jUfeoSvMpG0sqI8EzziO_ti9lw-RmfpihIFh-n8uuub-PcnbdZGMQ4I/s320/20230715_185243.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiabXC1KZ8x1wNdzxqkCMiLdY0nHqTULYrMTYtcV6At92rDj6JfkMhu14AWD-i2lor4tPqnioW8ifxkdJ4gCFF0nMZPULWD2t4355gCkI4mcFxUmI0gWaqPun8YCViw0EsNkiEV-iEcIxosgZ91W1uPXJ75EbQDgTv3UkAGBpEe4vIpFKCgaZc4aZKJRPA/s1209/20230715_191841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiabXC1KZ8x1wNdzxqkCMiLdY0nHqTULYrMTYtcV6At92rDj6JfkMhu14AWD-i2lor4tPqnioW8ifxkdJ4gCFF0nMZPULWD2t4355gCkI4mcFxUmI0gWaqPun8YCViw0EsNkiEV-iEcIxosgZ91W1uPXJ75EbQDgTv3UkAGBpEe4vIpFKCgaZc4aZKJRPA/s320/20230715_191841.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcH3GZjbFxIxVOEYlWAyIUKnujRmrzkXu9j5uNrJb0Qp0d0iRvESwtAZrB4lFwWs1BqvRphBGT9Fa59iMK2b_wD_i5KUN2GYTQVp_eTfeLU_M_se8uRBYQ-sj8rtEIiroW51xVxe00mQXEEmWkep09IvPXQMqUWDNgMobu5h0iqpH_-zSZEAFvybwZxOM/s1209/20230715_191849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcH3GZjbFxIxVOEYlWAyIUKnujRmrzkXu9j5uNrJb0Qp0d0iRvESwtAZrB4lFwWs1BqvRphBGT9Fa59iMK2b_wD_i5KUN2GYTQVp_eTfeLU_M_se8uRBYQ-sj8rtEIiroW51xVxe00mQXEEmWkep09IvPXQMqUWDNgMobu5h0iqpH_-zSZEAFvybwZxOM/s320/20230715_191849.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMp4H7_b1gZB-SCeObKN32OyR8f9MWpZlk2W7yZlD-Dfn8QL90YA2-q-QNco5jEJeuhVvsJloxnbvn0lzFiDX1AcfzNKsTCXo4ZpG1j4APfkNp6_laCwsNuEb0KbuqHT7o_D34ecchjAT4WuWz-4aQAL0TrBgnXX6nDCKRSbTfNYiNGRWBavYd_tYr-k/s1209/20230715_193155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuMp4H7_b1gZB-SCeObKN32OyR8f9MWpZlk2W7yZlD-Dfn8QL90YA2-q-QNco5jEJeuhVvsJloxnbvn0lzFiDX1AcfzNKsTCXo4ZpG1j4APfkNp6_laCwsNuEb0KbuqHT7o_D34ecchjAT4WuWz-4aQAL0TrBgnXX6nDCKRSbTfNYiNGRWBavYd_tYr-k/s320/20230715_193155.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTW9McwkN7KyQtmkOK6xDSCT2L8FCJ1JiH7Se5y1C4EG-8W-GdGJstkMAUJZaUFu_hmvzAGx7oMjerFbetShCROnn6HyDZOfc0D8N7HtFsbrx7QNLJyYTIvdn2gI31GPQwLqgn_5iqmDKpODSIrvTYOOJ1kBP2Gabhw5ggBD_lL-z76Z1lYwD5mxIPJg/s1209/20230715_193206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTW9McwkN7KyQtmkOK6xDSCT2L8FCJ1JiH7Se5y1C4EG-8W-GdGJstkMAUJZaUFu_hmvzAGx7oMjerFbetShCROnn6HyDZOfc0D8N7HtFsbrx7QNLJyYTIvdn2gI31GPQwLqgn_5iqmDKpODSIrvTYOOJ1kBP2Gabhw5ggBD_lL-z76Z1lYwD5mxIPJg/s320/20230715_193206.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi inizia l'attesa. Ora sto scrivendo proprio dalla stazione, sono quasi le 22 ora locale e il nostro bus partirà tra un'ora. Arriveremo a destinazione domattina alle 7.40. A San Cristobal ho prenotato un ostello che fa check-in fin dalle 8 di mattina. Perfetto! L'assurdo è che negli zainetti abbiamo felpe e vestiti caldi. San Cristobal è a 2200m di quota e di notte scende sotto ai 10 gradi. Per noi sarà uno sbalzo termico come fosse l'Antartide! A breve iniziamo a smontare un po' le bici, operazione che atterrisce Gigi da ieri, quando ha scoperto le regole di trasporto. Ma così è, e così si farà. Staremo attenti ad evitare furti, e se tutto va bene, domani saremo nel cuore de la montaña.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR77IuMUSI_yG_QNu1W6WFLQCGIUshuaiepnFUtCHzLjIqyfUJRRGbN_Q-8Y081fdA6ENHaAeSgJXNj9ENZmna-4UXOZ2SjYMDX_qHEbNH-OGY05JfO2jv3Yv4A6lOyjW1Y1VlRI8DJsZn6e85IY2rY5zRXHzxFADRv-q375H_828CpXYQLBen1FQ3YKk/s1209/20230715_200032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR77IuMUSI_yG_QNu1W6WFLQCGIUshuaiepnFUtCHzLjIqyfUJRRGbN_Q-8Y081fdA6ENHaAeSgJXNj9ENZmna-4UXOZ2SjYMDX_qHEbNH-OGY05JfO2jv3Yv4A6lOyjW1Y1VlRI8DJsZn6e85IY2rY5zRXHzxFADRv-q375H_828CpXYQLBen1FQ3YKk/s320/20230715_200032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-4556643238038142012023-07-13T07:30:00.000+02:002023-07-13T07:30:02.220+02:0019-21. Il cuore della giungla, nel Regno del serpente (Calakmul). Pedalare sciolti a 47 gradi e nei diluvi tropicali<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOyjsQswdW7gGSNEk0HpPu63jr9QgXmVi6I8cfyJ0e5kQ_jGdkvZ_ZnQIJEgZDOd0C-gLQ4Yo72kSHLKn3wrS0il-dX-Q6FgNlQm6znwpUCNPi1moeQV1spk8PhwZXfAiBXD9ZMmtdPyzwvPyr96bdgFgDMosNbTeo9CUAemX7TKKmb-1oeWn4O21bu_0/s1094/20230711_113202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1094" data-original-width="505" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOyjsQswdW7gGSNEk0HpPu63jr9QgXmVi6I8cfyJ0e5kQ_jGdkvZ_ZnQIJEgZDOd0C-gLQ4Yo72kSHLKn3wrS0il-dX-Q6FgNlQm6znwpUCNPi1moeQV1spk8PhwZXfAiBXD9ZMmtdPyzwvPyr96bdgFgDMosNbTeo9CUAemX7TKKmb-1oeWn4O21bu_0/w296-h640/20230711_113202.jpg" width="296" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Em52pyEy3WaucKK-wrCKOXzc63YwCJAPxf-XGWQbAVYq11aEOVwlzu3AzhN77fMj__MywaykJfbt1-vBzE-jMBqzsJ3G-BZzoTQIZdrjjTnRIOPr0I2oTyW_1OSXXqTEmS9bHUSv2r1zS8NF_FkesHeSRZdb6Dl0t7CCjCLoyc20Jlb2TgbGXpy7Wxw/s979/20230710_094006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Em52pyEy3WaucKK-wrCKOXzc63YwCJAPxf-XGWQbAVYq11aEOVwlzu3AzhN77fMj__MywaykJfbt1-vBzE-jMBqzsJ3G-BZzoTQIZdrjjTnRIOPr0I2oTyW_1OSXXqTEmS9bHUSv2r1zS8NF_FkesHeSRZdb6Dl0t7CCjCLoyc20Jlb2TgbGXpy7Wxw/w640-h480/20230710_094006.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcLcxdPxvvoHO8o-U7or5KVv-r11Mlf9FYCKO30x3exQJnWU-cQRnFa9MSfsT0cmT0dRa8tM5V0R3_Yx0X1BfrhCxk96TDfq_1upMa3EosVtgJg4NAbPikykhNwlBYwGJd0Ugi7rZHguswA2k1zsKp8T3_ddx4aRiUPUSxyWi4fHhXlUS7rWLieFMDLA/s1209/20230711_105346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGcLcxdPxvvoHO8o-U7or5KVv-r11Mlf9FYCKO30x3exQJnWU-cQRnFa9MSfsT0cmT0dRa8tM5V0R3_Yx0X1BfrhCxk96TDfq_1upMa3EosVtgJg4NAbPikykhNwlBYwGJd0Ugi7rZHguswA2k1zsKp8T3_ddx4aRiUPUSxyWi4fHhXlUS7rWLieFMDLA/w640-h480/20230711_105346.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgku2yk58iqqhuzsVQO5uX6IICjOYDNvzdhEfKiFly979GBOdB_ZndOxHiH8TlJ1Y7BiDo3ZytPMGk2wlggXLTzrb2LkecibFMSr3YTlhqPvXIDlaE2E1wSvGfTWYejSIloCriUtSLatRHtn5q1Pd3CFNIMi6NIOZTtdzw4dyK7tadC8z6bO5O3AhuACdc/s1209/20230711_143434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgku2yk58iqqhuzsVQO5uX6IICjOYDNvzdhEfKiFly979GBOdB_ZndOxHiH8TlJ1Y7BiDo3ZytPMGk2wlggXLTzrb2LkecibFMSr3YTlhqPvXIDlaE2E1wSvGfTWYejSIloCriUtSLatRHtn5q1Pd3CFNIMi6NIOZTtdzw4dyK7tadC8z6bO5O3AhuACdc/w480-h640/20230711_143434.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLO5Bvr4nc36yY-yXCbPNTkc5oe2CAq7ibs1TWFD06O4C9hJYHV_wW6pNI_CmYQPUI_q6u5ccHwL0lpNL-etWfLayd6geu3LsL6vC-_i3cJKPo2ldiBRJwx-aaYMlqbytlalE8ZIKYW0Hyag65kX8QkQ4hgh-vHWiynDbWQKSHmgwfBCg-bcQzXk2ScJk/s1209/20230710_125158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLO5Bvr4nc36yY-yXCbPNTkc5oe2CAq7ibs1TWFD06O4C9hJYHV_wW6pNI_CmYQPUI_q6u5ccHwL0lpNL-etWfLayd6geu3LsL6vC-_i3cJKPo2ldiBRJwx-aaYMlqbytlalE8ZIKYW0Hyag65kX8QkQ4hgh-vHWiynDbWQKSHmgwfBCg-bcQzXk2ScJk/w640-h480/20230710_125158.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfN9TH-BFgajr8cLaZZ9YhFtxXA0sp7fMHp6bYUkpYjEctj4apghSuZxVs_b5OGr-mBOyfCkjcB_mN_BhLBF8wQ3PM7_QWb1VL4MVp0eNWSVGjQPJFQnqxJoMTJh_KmwPgNuvAQXtEKenXFOJihuSCRnOEy5jjADRYBH4pjI7_XhE1mv5D_w5fDrf10mU/s1209/20230710_163540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfN9TH-BFgajr8cLaZZ9YhFtxXA0sp7fMHp6bYUkpYjEctj4apghSuZxVs_b5OGr-mBOyfCkjcB_mN_BhLBF8wQ3PM7_QWb1VL4MVp0eNWSVGjQPJFQnqxJoMTJh_KmwPgNuvAQXtEKenXFOJihuSCRnOEy5jjADRYBH4pjI7_XhE1mv5D_w5fDrf10mU/w640-h480/20230710_163540.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7E24TsNox8m7DYhYXfIQ2_X3Ka41m6CHFQGjuNywSTpQXQeliUNPV1nnUNNx11XniljX8cXwqaTeqNFCDn4bUw94IsZuQdgsU6vmRtDObTpJl0de58OdqNVecDDocnxbqcGA7OCE4m_t8KRuXXfhHbwfeg4ZO2qgH_LUQ2YyEYHOt25L_ZfRNWHMF5A/s1209/20230710_164446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7E24TsNox8m7DYhYXfIQ2_X3Ka41m6CHFQGjuNywSTpQXQeliUNPV1nnUNNx11XniljX8cXwqaTeqNFCDn4bUw94IsZuQdgsU6vmRtDObTpJl0de58OdqNVecDDocnxbqcGA7OCE4m_t8KRuXXfhHbwfeg4ZO2qgH_LUQ2YyEYHOt25L_ZfRNWHMF5A/w640-h480/20230710_164446.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">10/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Zoh Laguna-La selva (Conhuas, puerta de Calakmul)</div><div style="text-align: left;">73km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Iniziamo la giornata senza sapere che forma assumerà: potremmo pedalare solo 10km fino a Xpujil e prendere al volo un tour per il sito archeologico di Calakmul, facendoci poi lasciare sulla strada, senza tornare indietro. Oppure potremmo dover pedalare i 70km che ci separano dal bivio per le rovine, e concertare da qui la visita per domani. Nel primo caso si risparmia un giorno. Nel secondo si vedono più siti archeologici.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La stanchezza per il tappone di ieri si fa sentire e dormiamo sodo fino alle 8, quando ormai il sole è già alto e la graticola è accesa. Ci mettiamo in moto con calma, tra un dolorino e un acciacco, e facciamo colazione con ciambelline ciccionissime comprate ieri sera. Prima delle 9 siamo in strada. Oggi il vento, per fortuna, tace, e la strada è in buone condizioni. Raggiungiamo Xpujil in un batter d'occhio, anche perchè, pedalando, l'indolenzimento si riassorbe. Che gran macchina è il nostro corpo! Stiamo guadagnando in allenamento, finalmente, opera al bianco di quell'alchimia che muta la fatica in possibilità di spingersi oltre.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Poco prima di Xpujil inizia il cantiere aperto come una voragine del Treno maya. Proseguirà per tutti e 70 i kilometri di oggi, con un dispiego di mezzi e manodopera che lascia a bocca aperta. Il presidente, a quanto pare, ci tiene molto, e ha tutto l'interesse a portare avanti lo scempio. Qui, poi, ha un impatto tremendo, poichè passa proprio nella riserva della biosfera, che, finora, si è conservata intatta abbastanza da preservare tutta la sua varietà di fauna e flora. Per ora. E la beffa al danno è che i campesinos, nel nome della tutela ambientale, da oltre 30 anni sono stati messi alle strette perchè non possono più cacciare, coltivare e sfruttare le risorse come facevano un tempo; che era un modo sì poco ecologico, ma anche talmente ridotto nella portata, visto l'esiguo numero di pueblos, che l'impatto era comunque minimo. Far cacciare tre storni ai contadini, no. Disboscare ettari ed ettari per il treno, sì.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Nel polverone di uno di questi cantieri ci imbattiamo nell'università di Calakmul, che sorge abbastanza in mezzo al nulla e serve la popolazione di un'area molto vasta e quasi del tutto disabitata. Interessante che la struttura abbia le fattezze di un tempio maya... Ha senso!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbkQHnynXfTvt95m6CrfHV6Z0CiHypH_VRatd116-ljRsKJ06KOtek6uxrHB6qFsvmj5DQTRzmqYAtp7TuhQ6frUDEV6AWeEcMYE8-HjVQORtGhRlzWZYulId3uA_fh3OiZa__cOwhOSNNXoarK6FwdGeZS8_sp2SETNCimRDRgPOuAHne5b9fbgWrr0/s1209/20230710_092318.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbkQHnynXfTvt95m6CrfHV6Z0CiHypH_VRatd116-ljRsKJ06KOtek6uxrHB6qFsvmj5DQTRzmqYAtp7TuhQ6frUDEV6AWeEcMYE8-HjVQORtGhRlzWZYulId3uA_fh3OiZa__cOwhOSNNXoarK6FwdGeZS8_sp2SETNCimRDRgPOuAHne5b9fbgWrr0/s320/20230710_092318.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrzjO-NJVkEtLAno5rdbIC6K3nOgKqkGYzSR0qykO3lQf_1SnjzGY0wKDOdtUvhw83dgbGnZLmX0z_rG1S3qYatmO_qa_bMfdFRh7hsJDCdAZ5G91pCM8W56Nehg66S0GXoSEwdSpkwi29GbOnqvyrg8Y86_vBieIm3swqpFODWrUrARYxWngnOdn608/s1209/20230710_092329.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrzjO-NJVkEtLAno5rdbIC6K3nOgKqkGYzSR0qykO3lQf_1SnjzGY0wKDOdtUvhw83dgbGnZLmX0z_rG1S3qYatmO_qa_bMfdFRh7hsJDCdAZ5G91pCM8W56Nehg66S0GXoSEwdSpkwi29GbOnqvyrg8Y86_vBieIm3swqpFODWrUrARYxWngnOdn608/s320/20230710_092329.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8F3t3GCxVZYWemXjUKzx5qvxOfzKmZOIfxgWG8CIXLvMmvy5z5YMWFUIqTMwqh_4x5GQ3dwX_L383GCXpCPQKiuHpmkRoqgXqB3A_zq4T3sNyS8MrhfHDDM3YJAKtwP_eFd6PlhU_pilOXe7CUK_sHn76gCj_5B3dntBz-WfMGLTT2YMsHbEhDS_U4s/s989/20230710_092631.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8F3t3GCxVZYWemXjUKzx5qvxOfzKmZOIfxgWG8CIXLvMmvy5z5YMWFUIqTMwqh_4x5GQ3dwX_L383GCXpCPQKiuHpmkRoqgXqB3A_zq4T3sNyS8MrhfHDDM3YJAKtwP_eFd6PlhU_pilOXe7CUK_sHn76gCj_5B3dntBz-WfMGLTT2YMsHbEhDS_U4s/s320/20230710_092631.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In poco siamo in città, dove mi aspetto un gran numero di tour operator d'assalto che si contendono i turisti per trasporti a Calakmul... E invece il nulla, zero totale. Ci troviamo in una cittadina minuscola e sonnolenta, che pare quasi non sapere di trovarsi a un passo da un sito pazzesco. Le folle di autisti e guide, di cui ho letto online, non esistono proprio nemmen dipinte. Poco male: si pedala, e si approfitta della mezza giornata libera per visitare i vicini siti di Becan e Chicanna.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Decidiamo di non soffermarci, invece, al sito archeologico di Xipujil stessa, perchè, dovendo scegliere, mi sembra il meno interessante. Una nota: in maya il toponimo significa coda di gatto (nome di una pianta locale). Qui intorno esistono centinaia di siti, alcuni esplorati, altri non ancora. E' una delle zone che per prima e più a lungo è stata abitata. Dopo decine e decine di kilometri pedalate ostinatamente verso sud, ora giriamo il manubrio di nuovo ad ovest, seguendo l'angolo retto della strada. Questa sarà la nostra direzione per qualche giorno, nel tortuoso percorso a zig zag che stiamo compiendo nella penisola dello Yucatan, allo scopo non di fare il tragitto più breve, ma il più ricco.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEBl9BG994yp-qQcFS41cj0Bm_-v3OVQ3aPVTW0wNk8_TDovhb8unR0cwL0DucrTZUVdfNs3H9O842tJ930iVo8A8ijiwFn1ZpMOBLEDnfMT5BKUM6-3ixvwfkHL5AubnwuN42etkl8boR6WR9PZw8zWB12t8Uy2sgoc3-DjjCq6DrDgR_qAZNGpSnYw/s1209/20230710_093220.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEBl9BG994yp-qQcFS41cj0Bm_-v3OVQ3aPVTW0wNk8_TDovhb8unR0cwL0DucrTZUVdfNs3H9O842tJ930iVo8A8ijiwFn1ZpMOBLEDnfMT5BKUM6-3ixvwfkHL5AubnwuN42etkl8boR6WR9PZw8zWB12t8Uy2sgoc3-DjjCq6DrDgR_qAZNGpSnYw/s320/20230710_093220.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cWYGBUHWwBQNEvtHm21KSTrFp6tX1skbVwObGfnvilAfizaNpj-o9Q6JkkjLBMZaYlGbmVSQ02VR7H3LFhOOWdqKqg1PgHJz3E11PyU6Vnkw342qqXPstzU8Nk_fOsVvndBt-HgmgBrrVjg_zTXj3jB9p21ByD_GO5Y5I3esbK0TMWeF-x-rrcLq9bw/s979/20230710_094006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cWYGBUHWwBQNEvtHm21KSTrFp6tX1skbVwObGfnvilAfizaNpj-o9Q6JkkjLBMZaYlGbmVSQ02VR7H3LFhOOWdqKqg1PgHJz3E11PyU6Vnkw342qqXPstzU8Nk_fOsVvndBt-HgmgBrrVjg_zTXj3jB9p21ByD_GO5Y5I3esbK0TMWeF-x-rrcLq9bw/s320/20230710_094006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci stupiamo della presenza di una pista ciclabile, bene raro fuori dalle città più grandi. Corre tra la strada e il cantiere della ferrovia, e dopo una manciata di km termina. Vabe', basta il pensiero... Che sia un'opera di compensazione dell'impatto ambientale del Tren Maya? Un po' come da noi la ciclabile che corre accanto alla Tav, nata proprio a seguito della costruzione dell'Alta Velocità.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglgaZDYAVBx6CaeThQkuJYSnl7GWEpfHgXAaPa_jawANZBs_lM35ltaDyrGNk3RwFMy4KLm1afTDR5yiUfIzT7dW0fi4V1XA7LNlLNf8UR8XX8u9N4WLq09oAItyYWHfhZ5rdKFZUXFRmqyqc2FAm7vbwt44sSFKkHY7W6vfeCuN5h9hI9qUse8JF0m0A/s1209/20230710_095038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglgaZDYAVBx6CaeThQkuJYSnl7GWEpfHgXAaPa_jawANZBs_lM35ltaDyrGNk3RwFMy4KLm1afTDR5yiUfIzT7dW0fi4V1XA7LNlLNf8UR8XX8u9N4WLq09oAItyYWHfhZ5rdKFZUXFRmqyqc2FAm7vbwt44sSFKkHY7W6vfeCuN5h9hI9qUse8JF0m0A/s320/20230710_095038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In soli 8km da Xpujil siamo a Becan, primo dei due siti di oggi. Becan significa fossato, e infatti la città è cinta da un corso d'acqua artificiale, solcato da 7 ponti che permettono di accedere all'abitato, che si estendeva per oltre 12 ettari. Lo stile predominante è qui il cosiddetto rio bec, che si compone di elementi Petén, provenienti da sud, e Chenes, provenienti da nord. La città svolse, tra 600 e 1000 d.C. la funzione di capitale di una regione che si estendeva su ampi territori intorno; il suo ruolo militare e strategico è testimoniato dagli elaborati sistemi di difesa</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5WFI8h4vcVGB19TG-2BCJCgvp4AmKU9p5jBST8aAjEeX5fUBxRgybGKPs6kHvKKLkzAKtF1gTsN9vs8W2j27-Tay90hlaYSRQO_KAcayNZseN_m3g1L4Z7z5BcdDdNLHYH9u0y4ayJMy0VTktxxp6i8JiydF-U2DmLECrQNDFoNg95xp-QAzB2IdogI/s1209/20230710_101120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5WFI8h4vcVGB19TG-2BCJCgvp4AmKU9p5jBST8aAjEeX5fUBxRgybGKPs6kHvKKLkzAKtF1gTsN9vs8W2j27-Tay90hlaYSRQO_KAcayNZseN_m3g1L4Z7z5BcdDdNLHYH9u0y4ayJMy0VTktxxp6i8JiydF-U2DmLECrQNDFoNg95xp-QAzB2IdogI/s320/20230710_101120.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQHEu1Uqr2npbD3V4a7D5K6nhyfHj3_YJG_CcMtn-kkYmDN_ZlshenNpKFjAn-aeM_uOX4QaqHOU8jkcjfQ6oBoPyiuxVE59xi5w2WEMO_t0Tl9cQUwf_YzUY8hh7YGCHTAtmEZTwfyTrdZItufvsiCOIA79Ofky054OkrygwRaL5ZFQ_HUWQcvTDtAI/s979/20230710_101659.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQHEu1Uqr2npbD3V4a7D5K6nhyfHj3_YJG_CcMtn-kkYmDN_ZlshenNpKFjAn-aeM_uOX4QaqHOU8jkcjfQ6oBoPyiuxVE59xi5w2WEMO_t0Tl9cQUwf_YzUY8hh7YGCHTAtmEZTwfyTrdZItufvsiCOIA79Ofky054OkrygwRaL5ZFQ_HUWQcvTDtAI/s320/20230710_101659.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il fossato</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL--jR64ExTb3AWsjG93WKjJ_8Q7gldwq9KSbnWYK27P2S1wpC3bfZf6Y3AnM8_E5zOTbxIhH6TS5UV6QZxCvy0xynpO58FoTTiCbfQEDYXCyvnUB-iYF8cR86xmSj8HjP6cMKYAMxgSz6SB8B62ositXdj1DY47xovjRgQQRNgWPl3Qo7bSSwkI_xKjM/s1209/20230710_101723.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL--jR64ExTb3AWsjG93WKjJ_8Q7gldwq9KSbnWYK27P2S1wpC3bfZf6Y3AnM8_E5zOTbxIhH6TS5UV6QZxCvy0xynpO58FoTTiCbfQEDYXCyvnUB-iYF8cR86xmSj8HjP6cMKYAMxgSz6SB8B62ositXdj1DY47xovjRgQQRNgWPl3Qo7bSSwkI_xKjM/s320/20230710_101723.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">un ponte</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbYqet13lwvuPtxHfONSk2FC-9BZIs712FkVEMnBUzIx4U3pbnDEoYqnuRoNmezLQVPMATw4wVmm2myUJiU_pDwAdd7tJQwVwqtmDeue633IgvJ_W6NARtEf3-LCC7DNIp8pN0Tk9hw73DvkyTcfrdO8Btq72I2-KHXFCLotuHce4wAN8IHzz0UdlQ8gg/s1209/20230710_101933.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbYqet13lwvuPtxHfONSk2FC-9BZIs712FkVEMnBUzIx4U3pbnDEoYqnuRoNmezLQVPMATw4wVmm2myUJiU_pDwAdd7tJQwVwqtmDeue633IgvJ_W6NARtEf3-LCC7DNIp8pN0Tk9hw73DvkyTcfrdO8Btq72I2-KHXFCLotuHce4wAN8IHzz0UdlQ8gg/s320/20230710_101933.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHIv1HrRExPHqsy0a9CsV1v3UYIYDu-7s3D2t2IlhHwJwpnGsSGy0A591HtEAGQN2-r0sM2KnCGY5E_ma6Ot-b3kCwl8qJjddp_AE4Tpkhb0iFwMpvwf76Eh6bAD6w0Tkkcp7A4zFGlkB64RLYyyx7l-5SidsP6QQH6QXL2u1J_1tSFSUzb9wi-p9z-qo/s1209/20230710_101949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHIv1HrRExPHqsy0a9CsV1v3UYIYDu-7s3D2t2IlhHwJwpnGsSGy0A591HtEAGQN2-r0sM2KnCGY5E_ma6Ot-b3kCwl8qJjddp_AE4Tpkhb0iFwMpvwf76Eh6bAD6w0Tkkcp7A4zFGlkB64RLYyyx7l-5SidsP6QQH6QXL2u1J_1tSFSUzb9wi-p9z-qo/s320/20230710_101949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMvl-tn0gSbmjS9SYLJcmwh-YQDQXHbK9TiyZ2QKjv8tRXmkL5gLa40NnE_JAkzXDAMX9_ZchQkk0mclr3XzRTU4K0yalf4FGe31yKggWW627cn59kxLA_q6O0y6uwDrkyNtEt0tCjIXt0wtypALdX4p4llLG_Ee6s5NVye9ZJ0Wg-IbUIbY80l9wTSV8/s1209/20230710_102000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMvl-tn0gSbmjS9SYLJcmwh-YQDQXHbK9TiyZ2QKjv8tRXmkL5gLa40NnE_JAkzXDAMX9_ZchQkk0mclr3XzRTU4K0yalf4FGe31yKggWW627cn59kxLA_q6O0y6uwDrkyNtEt0tCjIXt0wtypALdX4p4llLG_Ee6s5NVye9ZJ0Wg-IbUIbY80l9wTSV8/s320/20230710_102000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Oltre alle strutture monumentali, grandiose ed austere, qui colpisce la presenza di un tunnel di oltre 66m che permetteva di accedere al centro cittadino. Era costellato di nicchie dove lasciare offerte.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQVsYvE1H8ffcbH4lPuOHLlWVTInWSHVhc72PyaBw7DBDQ8s2dgbrg96NkmCHrZRMq_qz4wfpG0FyunqDJhRtCZQB_VOpdwBy3xgQcZAV2PxVrP72Fr5OJIk8MYANb_M7g8ugS4WMCCcOQbslA2RVN5kke7wH6YL2qGOn-AMk8JPjhP5te9wC_-Y0FGw/s1209/20230710_102118.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQVsYvE1H8ffcbH4lPuOHLlWVTInWSHVhc72PyaBw7DBDQ8s2dgbrg96NkmCHrZRMq_qz4wfpG0FyunqDJhRtCZQB_VOpdwBy3xgQcZAV2PxVrP72Fr5OJIk8MYANb_M7g8ugS4WMCCcOQbslA2RVN5kke7wH6YL2qGOn-AMk8JPjhP5te9wC_-Y0FGw/s320/20230710_102118.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHrXs2A55jTcqV5o0XsWlXqDy0aOJ4U9kuCGcUHO-u0ODuEd2814HX4wNACEDu9d8y8ZxCsA25ypReBlkcK8stB5vaJECkvBLMg2PmAIZUsNM02xrxaLajJf2HHv4Cj9cTww-uvSHjjgglDrmdXJtdm3l3b6n_yOKC33R19uFufh8Asl4cpyiLDI2Kxk/s1209/20230710_102203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHrXs2A55jTcqV5o0XsWlXqDy0aOJ4U9kuCGcUHO-u0ODuEd2814HX4wNACEDu9d8y8ZxCsA25ypReBlkcK8stB5vaJECkvBLMg2PmAIZUsNM02xrxaLajJf2HHv4Cj9cTww-uvSHjjgglDrmdXJtdm3l3b6n_yOKC33R19uFufh8Asl4cpyiLDI2Kxk/s320/20230710_102203.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE302sc1FkKL1fJlfquGgpqZ1nBCEOj8xhVVJAEknwfmNjLv4pPzMeqWCUU6ehiQz4Uj4M7Qhc9OdD0v88yNZ9n1ItOxT5uwRwnFexbmjMrI6maOH6BmbAQ-lfJScocUOQyW5Kgjf8zesxI886IAEj06O6qwtOlA6-t3yNOXkoZa8MSHclTnk75hrq1LY/s979/20230710_102539.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE302sc1FkKL1fJlfquGgpqZ1nBCEOj8xhVVJAEknwfmNjLv4pPzMeqWCUU6ehiQz4Uj4M7Qhc9OdD0v88yNZ9n1ItOxT5uwRwnFexbmjMrI6maOH6BmbAQ-lfJScocUOQyW5Kgjf8zesxI886IAEj06O6qwtOlA6-t3yNOXkoZa8MSHclTnk75hrq1LY/s320/20230710_102539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUW1EK5dJ7-PnxAeXADII4YUtXSo7Nj1vhtGZBaOjalVpn1-wAWSaeBzzofF446UBw63Uf_4lEGMATO0QJeEH5QHX-6QEGZlqoE3NMmz3zOaHiztasBYH14J0fOoaBraDOVWV4FZs5GeIDMxe3H7z54ALNcfOLzXifLtfGS6TJipPQq7pImNaqQXBSJkc/s1209/20230710_102723.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUW1EK5dJ7-PnxAeXADII4YUtXSo7Nj1vhtGZBaOjalVpn1-wAWSaeBzzofF446UBw63Uf_4lEGMATO0QJeEH5QHX-6QEGZlqoE3NMmz3zOaHiztasBYH14J0fOoaBraDOVWV4FZs5GeIDMxe3H7z54ALNcfOLzXifLtfGS6TJipPQq7pImNaqQXBSJkc/s320/20230710_102723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sulle piramidi, in teoria, non si può salire. In pratica ci sono ancora le corde per issarsi e scendere senza arroccolarsi in sacrificio a Chac, ma tagliate alla base. Quindi tutto è ancora più simpaticamente pericoloso. Qualcuno si issa sui gradoni, ma la pioggerella e le scarpe da bici mi tengono lontana dall'impresa. Mi limito ad osservare le decorazioni dal basso.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKouCNdOdZJM3iwosAmNGIRlVp79uiMknJmQaa1pBghIu3BJ3ij82Tjlhegs0SATa_SSF-9f1GP_-U11JcapKBXDgEnVTu1Luelus8v9Dq17sDLhilsRCVYo5tA1nvD2nk5c4wPSThvsYkRvii2kNBkcNaM7y_9p4XE5q-DZ6L11WrX0UXU6HXBIdS_4/s1209/20230710_102958.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKouCNdOdZJM3iwosAmNGIRlVp79uiMknJmQaa1pBghIu3BJ3ij82Tjlhegs0SATa_SSF-9f1GP_-U11JcapKBXDgEnVTu1Luelus8v9Dq17sDLhilsRCVYo5tA1nvD2nk5c4wPSThvsYkRvii2kNBkcNaM7y_9p4XE5q-DZ6L11WrX0UXU6HXBIdS_4/s320/20230710_102958.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTWcF3AOR7hqsxCW3wPhiwColy1ETDDAtERRFePfRdF4fTTgQ695Rby-DV4ci9lgsRK4-J3UO0E2p0ZLF32YQrZj2Uqp2oX6jRmSS1vnjBdw80k5x4bOQp3i2CYS8cUynt68pF9AJhS6d1pbCBgkSW4z2Nk97LaOuq4vysX-__yqMQRchIOz0BhShxWY/s1209/20230710_103037.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMTWcF3AOR7hqsxCW3wPhiwColy1ETDDAtERRFePfRdF4fTTgQ695Rby-DV4ci9lgsRK4-J3UO0E2p0ZLF32YQrZj2Uqp2oX6jRmSS1vnjBdw80k5x4bOQp3i2CYS8cUynt68pF9AJhS6d1pbCBgkSW4z2Nk97LaOuq4vysX-__yqMQRchIOz0BhShxWY/s320/20230710_103037.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2BEMFOu6Moy9Ly-U2pKR1z47qElYTISAnLXj30weHXTrLtwi_uvWw9w4hdLs8iwUKOKnT4dGf5x-izo4mWsrEpbCZlcaf27GNdgMkefx7xMaJMi2T9b6ASjn59QFS89zjdoKN3HcLHY98Ladsuhv-FvgNSvBxh1mntJ0xbAo-McD346zXNN6FdqFLA0/s1209/20230710_103136.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2BEMFOu6Moy9Ly-U2pKR1z47qElYTISAnLXj30weHXTrLtwi_uvWw9w4hdLs8iwUKOKnT4dGf5x-izo4mWsrEpbCZlcaf27GNdgMkefx7xMaJMi2T9b6ASjn59QFS89zjdoKN3HcLHY98Ladsuhv-FvgNSvBxh1mntJ0xbAo-McD346zXNN6FdqFLA0/s320/20230710_103136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La pioggerella, in un attimo, si trasforma in acquazzone devastante. Troviamo riparo in alcune stanze del tempio, ma dobbiamo subito uscirne: vespe enormi iniziano a ronzarci intorno e a farci capire che non siamo ospiti graditi. Allora un po' sotto ai rami, un po' in altre nicchie, cerchiamo di non inzupparci subito da capo a piedi. L'attesa si prolunga, ma, come stiamo ben imparando qui, bisogna aver pazienza e abbandonare la fretta. Lo spettacolo delle gocciolone di pioggia, a tratti illuminate dal sole, in cui si riflettono i templi rimane comunque impagabile. A un certo punto Gigi decide che ha smesso di piovere e lascia il riparo per incamminarsi verso l'uscita. Io resto al coperto, in attesa che spiova e possa godermi la visita. Ritrovo Gigi mezzora più tardi, fradicio, che si limita a dire a denti stretti: mi sono perso.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5UxpcZre3ZuMN6OdMtgWewG_2spRrRzz4ZyhMwrvTblJZ2eFZ1w2ZkRSPcqBnTWdIJqwoKE-L4FbPi3l8gi_OCaiFq5nrM4EJatDfaVxsY8sbaMm8GgZvn38TfX55XcSySaTVBS6sM3ZeWOZfT6oqD7ryggCd5BIwquwYimrd_dpXQNV6Uo0I6DLyVeg/s1209/20230710_110711.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5UxpcZre3ZuMN6OdMtgWewG_2spRrRzz4ZyhMwrvTblJZ2eFZ1w2ZkRSPcqBnTWdIJqwoKE-L4FbPi3l8gi_OCaiFq5nrM4EJatDfaVxsY8sbaMm8GgZvn38TfX55XcSySaTVBS6sM3ZeWOZfT6oqD7ryggCd5BIwquwYimrd_dpXQNV6Uo0I6DLyVeg/s320/20230710_110711.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRxWZc3qkrCz5731XoQtxBqhMZ1ih0T3Bl9Iaa0Ov9ypmu9929bgtBUlQ3wnYh6h7PpYCxouHbWzJf33SCdVQ5IauMUu3F0sXhllvS1ub704YVaFWGn1ARId0R1ZRP3kKtYr9r5IIesDslvQqUDX1wQkGMB9cDeZ7dVW_b3vnazuOhvWrBnoa2pObbj-k/s1209/20230710_111207.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRxWZc3qkrCz5731XoQtxBqhMZ1ih0T3Bl9Iaa0Ov9ypmu9929bgtBUlQ3wnYh6h7PpYCxouHbWzJf33SCdVQ5IauMUu3F0sXhllvS1ub704YVaFWGn1ARId0R1ZRP3kKtYr9r5IIesDslvQqUDX1wQkGMB9cDeZ7dVW_b3vnazuOhvWrBnoa2pObbj-k/s320/20230710_111207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqy_DWCy6mpVtaXD8snEBnZm6LIeuiN02dp6fQcshGywBNIspOu3FSfTO0a_qy0iBh29rZN_N6pHrvzPdGJ8zzhDwgHx-PrSFCRtuuICzQtNR6d3pu853hNvfOlCd_G9GVIkI2ZbqF6iINeq2TgIxmzYgYwnMx0Ml0IaKGscdaikQXKaDeqHu5w3x7Mgc/s1209/20230710_111242.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqy_DWCy6mpVtaXD8snEBnZm6LIeuiN02dp6fQcshGywBNIspOu3FSfTO0a_qy0iBh29rZN_N6pHrvzPdGJ8zzhDwgHx-PrSFCRtuuICzQtNR6d3pu853hNvfOlCd_G9GVIkI2ZbqF6iINeq2TgIxmzYgYwnMx0Ml0IaKGscdaikQXKaDeqHu5w3x7Mgc/s320/20230710_111242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6HoRJJIQOG-wX2LH7nLAOkuf01jpjnJzpSlW4PH4I26atapcu2izYmfbJC90VO93Hbh2DoSxI9lt4r_eZBQyeu8fpCNhOvuTGdTrVA-2pkNAXFsjqNxa_5kiSQJQaiDBiaaKMexA1tFQUsYG5LCBDdkkdm9AsRrBicLulugFpu3--RbobLDpEnq4PQY/s979/20230710_111249.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl6HoRJJIQOG-wX2LH7nLAOkuf01jpjnJzpSlW4PH4I26atapcu2izYmfbJC90VO93Hbh2DoSxI9lt4r_eZBQyeu8fpCNhOvuTGdTrVA-2pkNAXFsjqNxa_5kiSQJQaiDBiaaKMexA1tFQUsYG5LCBDdkkdm9AsRrBicLulugFpu3--RbobLDpEnq4PQY/s320/20230710_111249.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAoNVj-zH66gpQPOhw731kko4CLYXLxhMofnW2PcAqydfEisEUwBaE8EzIZV_G1ZoGdF0p6vayZO6lAUdlwYV2XKfA1WA1YEZ4wlTjpkJxmBb3wX1G2_jPKkoNW0Bls42QfmSmeyHhisW-NySijf9f-Xcnl7U99S9xo9V88FNZ81kE8nKLWZ5uP4uQQT0/s979/20230710_111408.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAoNVj-zH66gpQPOhw731kko4CLYXLxhMofnW2PcAqydfEisEUwBaE8EzIZV_G1ZoGdF0p6vayZO6lAUdlwYV2XKfA1WA1YEZ4wlTjpkJxmBb3wX1G2_jPKkoNW0Bls42QfmSmeyHhisW-NySijf9f-Xcnl7U99S9xo9V88FNZ81kE8nKLWZ5uP4uQQT0/s320/20230710_111408.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">campo da gioco della pelota</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiERv_-HTeKFTCfoS_x73QpeIwF5PhGTbrc7qEzSvrrIjbOWnfNIIl7R6Ntgs4PGC75XAPywT_7OFwxjwxxbkyV5yPObXualM1L4DHLZe8SEnRsswRtRUZk2QGP7cYOQmZ9YAcwQHYUy7VI8PRHSm7uXiF40rjxByEZjdUyI2nRzQV2pGeWmaI_WhMR8/s1209/20230710_111555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiERv_-HTeKFTCfoS_x73QpeIwF5PhGTbrc7qEzSvrrIjbOWnfNIIl7R6Ntgs4PGC75XAPywT_7OFwxjwxxbkyV5yPObXualM1L4DHLZe8SEnRsswRtRUZk2QGP7cYOQmZ9YAcwQHYUy7VI8PRHSm7uXiF40rjxByEZjdUyI2nRzQV2pGeWmaI_WhMR8/s320/20230710_111555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UjP_HYSD0lZgNuzAu53_5M6ArbMAxPDPCHf8MymM622T7P4YsGvY5K7UIyaVhGspDMikI1JokfZuapChpRQ6pOxLVepCpDuk-FTz0VEAmegxuuiqIll3dwZBQ7jG_mAuF944f4i_VuO7KV7VJs2YnFy0lrSVJt-JVFPoxuX6ZW_TqDqd7QaIHny2nv4/s1209/20230710_112250.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UjP_HYSD0lZgNuzAu53_5M6ArbMAxPDPCHf8MymM622T7P4YsGvY5K7UIyaVhGspDMikI1JokfZuapChpRQ6pOxLVepCpDuk-FTz0VEAmegxuuiqIll3dwZBQ7jG_mAuF944f4i_VuO7KV7VJs2YnFy0lrSVJt-JVFPoxuX6ZW_TqDqd7QaIHny2nv4/s320/20230710_112250.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8eXrVHxYXG5Tf1EeL2BQAmB2oOiPGfdgYyC3xCd-tFCa4gDG_ljn3T6hn_oph9OykTZ9IErZ6yE71kZshnd1yWO16jo3tuLrvZrchKm8yJIGiF3055rrfVdYWBEHpPQ_gk4AMoayGcKDY6ybcdqSEoEEijRuD873RVDcCp4MYsu2sPILCXknXq8337ag/s979/20230710_112443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8eXrVHxYXG5Tf1EeL2BQAmB2oOiPGfdgYyC3xCd-tFCa4gDG_ljn3T6hn_oph9OykTZ9IErZ6yE71kZshnd1yWO16jo3tuLrvZrchKm8yJIGiF3055rrfVdYWBEHpPQ_gk4AMoayGcKDY6ybcdqSEoEEijRuD873RVDcCp4MYsu2sPILCXknXq8337ag/s320/20230710_112443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAyuuHVzIjCCPOdpnHmZmfqXRAja81cr277kU0SjYVxLZs-CACzczuf7ws3WlxAPEC5nct_sdDVTVvzV0wO2wadQJFs9G1-9cF3RfsrTOufinXKdN6ZftSRoZTNEaTRQtF0V83__o2vvhTQf1x70mdbCZYZpCBd-g84XcNUax9hKsLEa_mBnaGIvnIow/s1209/20230710_112642.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAyuuHVzIjCCPOdpnHmZmfqXRAja81cr277kU0SjYVxLZs-CACzczuf7ws3WlxAPEC5nct_sdDVTVvzV0wO2wadQJFs9G1-9cF3RfsrTOufinXKdN6ZftSRoZTNEaTRQtF0V83__o2vvhTQf1x70mdbCZYZpCBd-g84XcNUax9hKsLEa_mBnaGIvnIow/s320/20230710_112642.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK9KPm_toVIkRYQfphUPFrm_di9tv8HlzizlgQU1EuNzLnMC885IIUdzBMhfbEvk2G2DK0CqIdER1bCFgmu7Kgdi4PiIvNvEwYCCzxoPGxZZJ6atDd4ZreiQdXdWg5uHO6hFt0ljyeGtU_RW_1hWBm5Xf5gVvihY00dgijoLcyzpe9Kw_cn4yBRnPmUcw/s1209/20230710_112720.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK9KPm_toVIkRYQfphUPFrm_di9tv8HlzizlgQU1EuNzLnMC885IIUdzBMhfbEvk2G2DK0CqIdER1bCFgmu7Kgdi4PiIvNvEwYCCzxoPGxZZJ6atDd4ZreiQdXdWg5uHO6hFt0ljyeGtU_RW_1hWBm5Xf5gVvihY00dgijoLcyzpe9Kw_cn4yBRnPmUcw/s320/20230710_112720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il sole torna a splendere e possiamo finire con calma il nostro giro tra le rovine. La luce è limpida e caldissima, e fa evaporare tutta l'umidità dal terreno e dalle foglie in una bruma chiara e lattiginosa che sembra irreale.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di lasciare il sito, prenoto la nostra casa di stasera e domani, proprio a ridosso della deviazione per Calakmul. In questa zona gli alloggi sono molto cari per quel che offrono, ma giustamente approfittano del passaggio di turisti. Noi optiamo per una cabana, una roba a metà tra la cabina e la capanna... Un bungalow, insomma.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Sistemata anche questa faccenda, ci dirigiamo verso Chicanna, altro sito maya che si trova a soli 2km da Becan. Nei 5 minuti di trasferimento, torna a diluviare, con tuoni da far tremare la terra e lampi lunghissimi che squarciano il cielo. Siamo zuppi prima ancora di arrivare alla biglietteria del sito, dove ci rifugiamo con tanto di bici e bagagli. Tanto siamo gli unici presenti, oltre all'addetto all'ingresso e a una signora che fa le pulizie. Stiamo nella casetta della biglietteria per più di un'ora. Appena le secchiare d'acqua dal cielo si fanno meno violente, decido di buttarmi, arrotolata come un burrito in ben 2 k-way tra le rovine, perchè l'attesa mi annoia. Gigi preferisce stare al riparo, quindi sono sola, del tutto, in mezzo alla giungla e alle pietre antiche. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguWygkTauk_0sRfHWC7JpoVxkS5QL2e9WrQ4tzQtivP9nOYvqM0Y6hxK29xdFX4DAWYctQcglQrMnbDNgqrXVNUfrBBRbq7sZi5Q8hCZgMNbC11tRMl2gAidfc-FXAodj50Doj7fowlf4zG_Q35sapMfInebCXKw4fWDTJSjzBe7kBtb787pLlZjRqbSo/s1209/20230710_123614.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguWygkTauk_0sRfHWC7JpoVxkS5QL2e9WrQ4tzQtivP9nOYvqM0Y6hxK29xdFX4DAWYctQcglQrMnbDNgqrXVNUfrBBRbq7sZi5Q8hCZgMNbC11tRMl2gAidfc-FXAodj50Doj7fowlf4zG_Q35sapMfInebCXKw4fWDTJSjzBe7kBtb787pLlZjRqbSo/s320/20230710_123614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxc7KEM7OWiZud_GkELg0i9TZwNs6mStYk1z6gfLMtLLPJ9Qw_H3CVLHINF0XZ-b1C1Yl87tzZYNH5PcBA0MkG9a4X1Ne88sDjC3q4EJjvkQY07c6EuJVGbiZvo4QDXtgLst4FWnSFwVoFac7g8kD-CwWWIoXfdiVeQzoJmSKuteFDOKndNRP9wzGm9E4/s1209/20230710_123717.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxc7KEM7OWiZud_GkELg0i9TZwNs6mStYk1z6gfLMtLLPJ9Qw_H3CVLHINF0XZ-b1C1Yl87tzZYNH5PcBA0MkG9a4X1Ne88sDjC3q4EJjvkQY07c6EuJVGbiZvo4QDXtgLst4FWnSFwVoFac7g8kD-CwWWIoXfdiVeQzoJmSKuteFDOKndNRP9wzGm9E4/s320/20230710_123717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8bTYTvBIdUUbUtIzP3AM7ZKQU5Gh57WXXF_rtTO3k71hNAdCzttkrD-kh6wIvRtdkT_NT9w91f85EvXstggDvSp2V415Fj9vzMoEhvHAuDajckCk5AcD6lHkYaddTE2-hkwOz4eVRy38lwFqSpM1djRmcM9NZR4rkSjkbCrE7FKWjRdT8ppiJUDYfct4/s1209/20230710_123749.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8bTYTvBIdUUbUtIzP3AM7ZKQU5Gh57WXXF_rtTO3k71hNAdCzttkrD-kh6wIvRtdkT_NT9w91f85EvXstggDvSp2V415Fj9vzMoEhvHAuDajckCk5AcD6lHkYaddTE2-hkwOz4eVRy38lwFqSpM1djRmcM9NZR4rkSjkbCrE7FKWjRdT8ppiJUDYfct4/s320/20230710_123749.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGxTb2btfw0tM7I-8uDKZBE4Hh5IDbTaiiTMXqnHmeBebnnYR9T_ninEZ4JWjNyKYr4uEsXhVjtrz2L9ssV6HL9RDWPsMd_IWmXV94bKfJiZEfkCKnLPcpqLTi0UF8y3J18UGdYpnhmUr9aANOrcCaf4QpIfIf7paeXF-O-Guh3vs_rUWZSly5UmB3FE/s1209/20230710_123820.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGxTb2btfw0tM7I-8uDKZBE4Hh5IDbTaiiTMXqnHmeBebnnYR9T_ninEZ4JWjNyKYr4uEsXhVjtrz2L9ssV6HL9RDWPsMd_IWmXV94bKfJiZEfkCKnLPcpqLTi0UF8y3J18UGdYpnhmUr9aANOrcCaf4QpIfIf7paeXF-O-Guh3vs_rUWZSly5UmB3FE/s320/20230710_123820.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Chicannà significa "casa delle fauci del serpente", nome appropriato in quanto gli edifici principali hanno i portali istoriati in forma di mostruose bocche dentate e spalancate. Il periodo di massimo splendore di questa città fu tra il 550 e il 700 d.C. e si trattò probabilmente di un sobborgo residenziale delle elite nobiliari di Becan. Lo stile è misto: chenes e rio bec. La prima struttura in cui ci si imbatte ha due portali-fauci, uno sopra all'altro, e ai lati presenta maschere di Chac, dio della pioggia, dal nasone ricurvo.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7krMKfodj3ZKRizg8hvXk-DHw6Gnwi77TdhZqCdChFEAZHCcJEWufBG0K-lR8osqezpq6LZoEOkLzJiFAjMkvcCsz4tkON1fqo__uR6jYoMWovvTnzBVO38lq-yQ5yzABU-P62bWz978pF-slJnhVLZeddlkPhF3y_uqPQxToj3o7baC4kcJDAymgDOw/s1209/20230710_123911.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7krMKfodj3ZKRizg8hvXk-DHw6Gnwi77TdhZqCdChFEAZHCcJEWufBG0K-lR8osqezpq6LZoEOkLzJiFAjMkvcCsz4tkON1fqo__uR6jYoMWovvTnzBVO38lq-yQ5yzABU-P62bWz978pF-slJnhVLZeddlkPhF3y_uqPQxToj3o7baC4kcJDAymgDOw/s320/20230710_123911.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkCkkjgPqnIYQ6Whq0gj0BKqg1ksmb-u8XtKIMvIOpmc_JO0-xpdJ0erdfYUoUiiPLphFwrIBjGlPYIEf6CS6csIowwIwaVrH1R-QMIQ2hJuIbtWliNyddYebwUzW-ouSRXaRJ76HenIhqOvURJtVgY-nAMu5-Z2MhXw50O9aQZUmmIxoaBFfrMY5Poc/s1209/20230710_124643.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkCkkjgPqnIYQ6Whq0gj0BKqg1ksmb-u8XtKIMvIOpmc_JO0-xpdJ0erdfYUoUiiPLphFwrIBjGlPYIEf6CS6csIowwIwaVrH1R-QMIQ2hJuIbtWliNyddYebwUzW-ouSRXaRJ76HenIhqOvURJtVgY-nAMu5-Z2MhXw50O9aQZUmmIxoaBFfrMY5Poc/s320/20230710_124643.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQuprrPSG5dk2Y2tmQ3zugnmLLC0ElJ19sjFNcBKUoLFEuP9Gr9grzwKIaA5RKdVAD95mvKifJa0Bqg_Fg94WrqmpEU_VhvFJnnLgYEiB2B3IAMZAhZ9NfZ-p6GA6ns9QHfx2vZIyr4XE4AUgh1BFKHe5PnTKKNR0iCaKr4bdvAr2SZpXjm0j4-8sjrw/s1209/20230710_124703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQuprrPSG5dk2Y2tmQ3zugnmLLC0ElJ19sjFNcBKUoLFEuP9Gr9grzwKIaA5RKdVAD95mvKifJa0Bqg_Fg94WrqmpEU_VhvFJnnLgYEiB2B3IAMZAhZ9NfZ-p6GA6ns9QHfx2vZIyr4XE4AUgh1BFKHe5PnTKKNR0iCaKr4bdvAr2SZpXjm0j4-8sjrw/s320/20230710_124703.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84P5SUNzAjHDfmNpQcdg_iYUvLu3qD00hesAxvs3Em8uxUxaSOPEQKeoYorz5HyFnUbIXqApEhcgG2fc2Zhx0xWUz13k4Muuhqc62Z4is4nM9SZuQDtjJP41bxDMbj9KLpp_PDh3Aw3WkzLeAUE2dnTDFW5oOaI1jGiTOJUdXUVkhDqWGVyYOLawGMYQ/s1209/20230710_124953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84P5SUNzAjHDfmNpQcdg_iYUvLu3qD00hesAxvs3Em8uxUxaSOPEQKeoYorz5HyFnUbIXqApEhcgG2fc2Zhx0xWUz13k4Muuhqc62Z4is4nM9SZuQDtjJP41bxDMbj9KLpp_PDh3Aw3WkzLeAUE2dnTDFW5oOaI1jGiTOJUdXUVkhDqWGVyYOLawGMYQ/s320/20230710_124953.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RWvKon9LOvBHYbiqv7UWaRmyanzkifGL9xC_HZF-HiLQU3pKbhpbeFOVSJSDCWqPR306pHz6ZPqUhAqpG7IUHvKtlb2NKiiHUDYYAZxShnQhiEvkHyo_ByjL6Lm0OxyCOA2cwhmUhoEL8oPiEdKFM0M31EnpW0ZG_SlDshGNsfTSgraJVTTbjbPS1Xg/s979/20230710_125147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RWvKon9LOvBHYbiqv7UWaRmyanzkifGL9xC_HZF-HiLQU3pKbhpbeFOVSJSDCWqPR306pHz6ZPqUhAqpG7IUHvKtlb2NKiiHUDYYAZxShnQhiEvkHyo_ByjL6Lm0OxyCOA2cwhmUhoEL8oPiEdKFM0M31EnpW0ZG_SlDshGNsfTSgraJVTTbjbPS1Xg/s320/20230710_125147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo aver superato alcune rovine di epoca precedente, si giunge alla piazza principale, dove campeggia un immenso portale a bocca di mostro in stile chenes; si pensa siano le fauci del dio Itzamnà, signore dei cieli e creatore di tutte le cose. La precisione nel rappresentare qualcosa di così inquietante mette i brividi. Sarà che sono sola, non ci sono altri visitatori, non c'è nessuno, e la giungla è tutta un brusio di schiamazzi e urli. Sarà che ricomincia a piovere, e forte, e la luce è cupa e quasi assente, tra tuoni fortissimi e lampi. Ma pare quasi che quelle mascelle spalancate si muovano e vogliano divorare chiunque osi avvicinarsi. Resto incantata per qualche attimo in questo incubo lucido, poi mi riprendo e muovo lesta verso l'uscita. Ho ancora i brividi. E non ho fatto uso di peyote!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjv12yP47ixjsobgTJXH1jo5GhlS3a2eqWRELbLqZHQBLj513LIXIDv6JYEVsByyarxwUKMN72LdcdOVYUleNqXT4_6oiEA6yOAxqZQGiV8lAr4dOqygNMDgbfDzX2KHSMYN7v47q_7wir_mV-yAI4YFohx60PhYL_eJUDQZw4IpYiaEPF5hHx0Hae6w/s1209/20230710_125158.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjv12yP47ixjsobgTJXH1jo5GhlS3a2eqWRELbLqZHQBLj513LIXIDv6JYEVsByyarxwUKMN72LdcdOVYUleNqXT4_6oiEA6yOAxqZQGiV8lAr4dOqygNMDgbfDzX2KHSMYN7v47q_7wir_mV-yAI4YFohx60PhYL_eJUDQZw4IpYiaEPF5hHx0Hae6w/s320/20230710_125158.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqo_9C4a9NoCxEUuU7EyZcUDnqcXsgEunZMK81KINsNYKBHwy2jTR-6pjhFS9fD761xzNR_kquJHbaesNAcL3FZB76FRTdb3rjXVywLFLMsb7CTPiMJLPKBx9fZ8whb1CCxj0o_vmjIiUMVVc0w3fwLyT4E4lbTJeNVtZM1qK0gBtzI_45t0rNaKBVBTs/s1209/20230710_125320.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqo_9C4a9NoCxEUuU7EyZcUDnqcXsgEunZMK81KINsNYKBHwy2jTR-6pjhFS9fD761xzNR_kquJHbaesNAcL3FZB76FRTdb3rjXVywLFLMsb7CTPiMJLPKBx9fZ8whb1CCxj0o_vmjIiUMVVc0w3fwLyT4E4lbTJeNVtZM1qK0gBtzI_45t0rNaKBVBTs/s320/20230710_125320.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Nella casetta d'ingresso trovo Gigi e il bigliettaio uno in un angolo, l'altro in quello opposto. Uno guarda la tv, l'altro il telefono (anche se non c'è connessione di alcun tipo). Mi aggiungo alla strana coppia perchè sta piovendo troppo forte per potersi muovere, e non si vede a un metro dal naso. Rimaniamo così in attesa per un tempo che pare infinito, ma poi, finalmente, il diluvio di interrompe (e prosegue solo sotto agli alberi, che continuano a sgocciolare forte molto a lungo, traendo in inganno. Gli alberi riparano quando piove, ma poi restituiscono tutto quando smette).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Sono passate le 14 quando torniamo in sella, e ci aspettano 50km abbondanti prima di raggiungere la nostra bella cabana alle porrte di Calakmul, dove pernotteremo stanotte e domani.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Alle nostre spalle si addensano ancora temporali apocalittici, che minacciano con il loro colore livido e i tuoni che paiono bombe (la revolucion!); nello specchietto retrovisore intuisco Gigi, un puntino chiaro, perso in una massa nera immensa. Acceleriamo il passo, e per fortuna il vento oggi ci aiuta. La strada è liscia e grande, e le salitelle non così continue e a strappo. Tutto il percorso è un enorme cantiere aperto con centinaia di operai; alcuni lavorano, tanti altri guardano, riposano o sbandierano (la segnalazione dei lavori in corso non è fatta solo con luci e coni arancioni, ma da una catena umana, formata soprattutto da donne, di addetti allo sbandieramento di stoffa catarifrangente). Vuoi far credere alla gente che il treno maya porterà ricchezza e lavoro? Impiegali per qualche mese a caso, e vedrai che molti ti crederanno. Poi licenziali in tronco, tanto chi se ne frega, era manodopera inutile, una bolla di occupazione assolutamente artificiale e creata ad hoc. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5MmllggoedMa1Z0F01_bx3yRKVmQKj-qnFmlevweXisZTfOj7OHAHpEtLLPH5GZ3MEY1x8G5gWsy8d4dxoGhaW7pUJiv50GYlNkMLieIOXMwk8mgVKkON6zRc9e2bS4f5vDaEhachb0kf0CutSX3Cqe6yh3ILmOypi-bOpz0QESRV982ePSX2rpluA2g/s989/20230710_142736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5MmllggoedMa1Z0F01_bx3yRKVmQKj-qnFmlevweXisZTfOj7OHAHpEtLLPH5GZ3MEY1x8G5gWsy8d4dxoGhaW7pUJiv50GYlNkMLieIOXMwk8mgVKkON6zRc9e2bS4f5vDaEhachb0kf0CutSX3Cqe6yh3ILmOypi-bOpz0QESRV982ePSX2rpluA2g/s320/20230710_142736.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5OwSIoR1kT_aRk5YCIvKlOQGgZv22eX1mefMALlcsoowiWbbJxzwvrdEyT4YlcXNDsuQ8pa587sdwvyAmvyn5YbT6rq6Ci1NgJS9K3BD-C35FPG5cYGk3itc5_Rg9H6wJ6fbAhT3pWriFtIojfrZ-szqgJ2pQgVASS5n1WDCHMwbcyfu16zK4wW2QMso/s989/20230710_142752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5OwSIoR1kT_aRk5YCIvKlOQGgZv22eX1mefMALlcsoowiWbbJxzwvrdEyT4YlcXNDsuQ8pa587sdwvyAmvyn5YbT6rq6Ci1NgJS9K3BD-C35FPG5cYGk3itc5_Rg9H6wJ6fbAhT3pWriFtIojfrZ-szqgJ2pQgVASS5n1WDCHMwbcyfu16zK4wW2QMso/s320/20230710_142752.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi870PQW_qEUAWN5jGSWAyBdy5tMam98ffEHmrXZ4qiouK4H_e8L4kXqMmKp45CHgDvfpP5Axmt1NpW1Mpj6HNt3UwhusPXKhbCGasCc72mEBuwCbd8Yu_wMscQyPIHp42l4XvIeHYDYHLq0pWpbi0ugUJ6QxxesWZTZyYnwV92kCv5e03gp5RLO8pdpZE/s1209/20230710_142802.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi870PQW_qEUAWN5jGSWAyBdy5tMam98ffEHmrXZ4qiouK4H_e8L4kXqMmKp45CHgDvfpP5Axmt1NpW1Mpj6HNt3UwhusPXKhbCGasCc72mEBuwCbd8Yu_wMscQyPIHp42l4XvIeHYDYHLq0pWpbi0ugUJ6QxxesWZTZyYnwV92kCv5e03gp5RLO8pdpZE/s320/20230710_142802.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Di paesi veri e propri non ne incrociamo. Ci sono alcuni minuscoli pueblos (con solo una o due abitazioni), segnalati dalle banchine della fermata del bus. Nell'unico di questi che abbia una sorta di bodeguita ci fermiamo, convinti che stia iniziando a piovere. Ma non è così, sono tutte promesse non mantenute (per fortuna). Ripartiamo ed è tutto un susseguirsi di cantieri e cartelli che ricordano il divieto di caccia, anche se gli animali ritratti immagino la invoglino, se uno ha quel pallino.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikaIowYvS07eOawDrx60G5BUQP6osagjRyORz_Ob1lIatn4YWUDZC4BDQEXDXwCVFJmpNG2zByZYVc4cS6ZShKUFIGVCiCpXfvnVrIjJKEv4dEavKS4W-ZIAfX1Mvu7dem9HMJo3bimo2F0kHAUyHmObQccead6L83bfh1YTHLUwwh6lzAJKSRUSlyLg/s1209/20230710_162451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikaIowYvS07eOawDrx60G5BUQP6osagjRyORz_Ob1lIatn4YWUDZC4BDQEXDXwCVFJmpNG2zByZYVc4cS6ZShKUFIGVCiCpXfvnVrIjJKEv4dEavKS4W-ZIAfX1Mvu7dem9HMJo3bimo2F0kHAUyHmObQccead6L83bfh1YTHLUwwh6lzAJKSRUSlyLg/s320/20230710_162451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBgvU4Vv7alMz1xGa1QBgXjBjr3xi4m7oJgWKxjoRM9xkKM9KtcslGQfwAzZfwrLPaMjxgj-MCTrH2MbL1hPlV_-t5rwOBxVCuX_bPf_WGNHlMH4DqQj4YIfvYOvusj7DN8DxzreVDmxe46knsR_cSKfZAeCUTQJjNMxS8Q1XxabAgFYNDibmaCfjmm_A/s1209/20230710_162619.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBgvU4Vv7alMz1xGa1QBgXjBjr3xi4m7oJgWKxjoRM9xkKM9KtcslGQfwAzZfwrLPaMjxgj-MCTrH2MbL1hPlV_-t5rwOBxVCuX_bPf_WGNHlMH4DqQj4YIfvYOvusj7DN8DxzreVDmxe46knsR_cSKfZAeCUTQJjNMxS8Q1XxabAgFYNDibmaCfjmm_A/s320/20230710_162619.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn-52zbcayhs5Uq4_SxPiytn7wkj0BVPuYXb35Hf56MY0Zuim0rkwryQfLlIsFGd-3GVQmvdzr0NiJ0h1E6Fxl8JX1f98RLIaAJn7_1I8VP7sup6vXF0c9Lo_yzHekHQ7nEHHS2Th6Kz8CKth_IhRRr3TMags3pZAg5R1-2X8MY5tofOG0sZ4a0qX1JrQ/s1209/20230710_162654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn-52zbcayhs5Uq4_SxPiytn7wkj0BVPuYXb35Hf56MY0Zuim0rkwryQfLlIsFGd-3GVQmvdzr0NiJ0h1E6Fxl8JX1f98RLIaAJn7_1I8VP7sup6vXF0c9Lo_yzHekHQ7nEHHS2Th6Kz8CKth_IhRRr3TMags3pZAg5R1-2X8MY5tofOG0sZ4a0qX1JrQ/s320/20230710_162654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFtnjooTO4LbfFONK5LL1ItkKtAxcq0M9rZUl_s4IgOAjCIMxRJMOtD81VutUC1-5lxOsmIZNDhoi808rDDvoA9xHXmsoRDzlDR6LVaVU0URgy0IfEuo97OS1qEuoZ6CbOzg9Yfr6BwZsI1H3W0PAcQVaH0v_Myqi6iD6Ra0Fo9WoAEEAzXFndGoqB9c/s1209/20230710_163540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFtnjooTO4LbfFONK5LL1ItkKtAxcq0M9rZUl_s4IgOAjCIMxRJMOtD81VutUC1-5lxOsmIZNDhoi808rDDvoA9xHXmsoRDzlDR6LVaVU0URgy0IfEuo97OS1qEuoZ6CbOzg9Yfr6BwZsI1H3W0PAcQVaH0v_Myqi6iD6Ra0Fo9WoAEEAzXFndGoqB9c/s320/20230710_163540.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Arriviamo così alla nostra meta, La Selva (Conhuas) dopo aver superato di una manciata di metri il bivio di accesso a Calakmul. Domani, domani!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Troviamo il nostro villaggetto di cabanas e il proprietario, Julio, uomo di una cortesia e di una gentilezza incredibili, ci accompagna alla nostra casetta. Ci spiega che è tutta alimentata con energia solare, che c'è l'amaca, che ci sono le zanzariere. Aggiunge anche che tutto il paese è privo di corrente da ore, e ciò accade da giorni, tutti i giorni, tutto il giorno tranne la sera. "E' il cantiere del treno" commenta, laconico. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">La casetta, onestamente, è fantastica. Per la media dei prezzi messicani non è proprio economica, ma quando si spende per persone del posto che cercano di promuovere un turismo sostenibile, si paga volentieri. Non c'è frode qui, tutto è come si vede. Le cabanas sono nel cortile di Julio, che vive qui con la famiglia e lascia che cani, gatti, galline con pulcini e tacchini vaghino liberi, insieme ai pappagalli e al resto della fauna tropicale di questo lembo di foresta.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAqzNUfY6k6_d7D6lL274FshGCxyOEK2V3Dn9ugXcBFJ3SJEnlGyswFNfk7ttGpNCohfO4v_BEOxRIzDeLkfoBlo_VZILi7AZBvg3DpPuzf2lJ3QxAQhfARi6fJfC5aavmwFkOLGA_e5Yd05nimcVsLJFaHRi7HBduxYAHA0ET3A8nT69OyJujV9G9Eo/s1209/20230710_164446.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbAqzNUfY6k6_d7D6lL274FshGCxyOEK2V3Dn9ugXcBFJ3SJEnlGyswFNfk7ttGpNCohfO4v_BEOxRIzDeLkfoBlo_VZILi7AZBvg3DpPuzf2lJ3QxAQhfARi6fJfC5aavmwFkOLGA_e5Yd05nimcVsLJFaHRi7HBduxYAHA0ET3A8nT69OyJujV9G9Eo/s320/20230710_164446.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOF0FpwE3HAJi_gYbDHzWcSYkF2WZUMlDvmWr6ol97Cok9Sz7I_hHhhHiXcaqPXDS8YDiMs-c8rWyDrpbzrOmL0_QDLJxrl_i3rP5Puf-_EmEAAkAeqpfen7g2kPsh56OVFReo8B5Pgw190uhX4osXXw4aj2HOZ5YF_5j7WLplkQobNbS_stPGslViMuM/s979/20230710_164542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOF0FpwE3HAJi_gYbDHzWcSYkF2WZUMlDvmWr6ol97Cok9Sz7I_hHhhHiXcaqPXDS8YDiMs-c8rWyDrpbzrOmL0_QDLJxrl_i3rP5Puf-_EmEAAkAeqpfen7g2kPsh56OVFReo8B5Pgw190uhX4osXXw4aj2HOZ5YF_5j7WLplkQobNbS_stPGslViMuM/s320/20230710_164542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9cs64qohD0B849e0_DcHsCB8sp7c5NngKzTuQr7ZhtSGaTrpbyWx29Zo4qHKc4tZFd1aG75OU-3rNex_misbzeZlyyBoXm_LnceB0EYzX97fr68UrW0Gd6TdDCZQxcSJ6Frucm744eg15ZxZyP2jH3tH6ezpfrHo-rRGiMsXt-kI_Prp3oQhcvZ6V2FA/s1209/20230710_171821.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9cs64qohD0B849e0_DcHsCB8sp7c5NngKzTuQr7ZhtSGaTrpbyWx29Zo4qHKc4tZFd1aG75OU-3rNex_misbzeZlyyBoXm_LnceB0EYzX97fr68UrW0Gd6TdDCZQxcSJ6Frucm744eg15ZxZyP2jH3tH6ezpfrHo-rRGiMsXt-kI_Prp3oQhcvZ6V2FA/s320/20230710_171821.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo la doccia (siamo veramente luridi oggi: con le pioggissime ci siamo infangati di una terra argillosa, chiara, collosa che pare vinavil e non va via dalle gambe nemmeno a grattarla) usciamo in paese e ci troviamo difonte ad un tramonto tropical-pirotecnico.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YO1Uvukj_HePnq8jLqWroHOAXDVwEO-15A2MhxjpEDx46SeW4kHfFo_DU6lJhmrtPaisVdTsjIPWedYoefG_nwc8l2bT6tbO7iiIDHkYfLpBVRX4_3stXLjkPGVPff_qwEBl9uOMRdkO5VR2-suuobDmbOBdF6gahjug9PGZ2SDEwj6ciXehRRRZpC8/s1209/20230710_184615.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YO1Uvukj_HePnq8jLqWroHOAXDVwEO-15A2MhxjpEDx46SeW4kHfFo_DU6lJhmrtPaisVdTsjIPWedYoefG_nwc8l2bT6tbO7iiIDHkYfLpBVRX4_3stXLjkPGVPff_qwEBl9uOMRdkO5VR2-suuobDmbOBdF6gahjug9PGZ2SDEwj6ciXehRRRZpC8/s320/20230710_184615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBx_MOqll8Gl9_WKjYGcBd9pSDbqI7dV-SrH1nzDjs3dcTbuQ8CpYUE4RLe26NuoGAX1UZUIHGNsE4fqK6gj_y8h6ELOFflbxRXufvRJEuUL6vQ8Y6l2bpLcA0gCVy9Wzy1dqR3J5zpmb4eNM2XhM9FW-XQAyqstzuQX7fF-hJuFn7w9Fxfvfod9L6uUQ/s1209/20230710_184630.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBx_MOqll8Gl9_WKjYGcBd9pSDbqI7dV-SrH1nzDjs3dcTbuQ8CpYUE4RLe26NuoGAX1UZUIHGNsE4fqK6gj_y8h6ELOFflbxRXufvRJEuUL6vQ8Y6l2bpLcA0gCVy9Wzy1dqR3J5zpmb4eNM2XhM9FW-XQAyqstzuQX7fF-hJuFn7w9Fxfvfod9L6uUQ/s320/20230710_184630.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY5KcnKytjBpCw7J0Z-yAsTv3BWFoLKxGhR8ycjQq7xlzwx1oixjx3aVvAT4ePKFLSZ_J9hncDIM3Ysic0GtSdYs48lB4Y1cDFCJnskhr_bwx_lYgV1PRNvyOqlvUIgJwQ1Do3y3BnixonHNCxr23WEUrT3lY7akY_1ElHRQatUSXbH-volQE4fPvB_zQ/s1209/20230710_185412.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY5KcnKytjBpCw7J0Z-yAsTv3BWFoLKxGhR8ycjQq7xlzwx1oixjx3aVvAT4ePKFLSZ_J9hncDIM3Ysic0GtSdYs48lB4Y1cDFCJnskhr_bwx_lYgV1PRNvyOqlvUIgJwQ1Do3y3BnixonHNCxr23WEUrT3lY7akY_1ElHRQatUSXbH-volQE4fPvB_zQ/s320/20230710_185412.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Poi cala l'oscurità, quella vera da black out al margine della giungla. Si intravedono candele accese nelle case e nei pochi, minuscoli negozi. Qualcuno ha un generatore e lo usa per file di lucette stile natalizio, che fanno poco in termini di visibilità ma decorano assai. La gente va in giro con torce o con i telefoni accesi, e quando ci si passa accanto ci si saluta per far capire che non si è malintenzionati. Molti guardano Gigi con timore: alto com'è, sembra l'uomo nero! Ed è tutto buenas tardes buenas tardes preventivo, prima che li ghermisca. Fatte le nostre compere al buio (ahimè anche tutti i frigoriferi e freezer sono spenti da tutto il giorno, e ciò accade da settimane... Bisogna stare attenti!) ed evitato di un soffio di calpestare un grosso serpente che stava attraversando la strada, torniamo da Julio, che si è offerto di prepararci una cenetta. Cucina lui con ingredienti a km0 (orto e pollame in primis) e si mangia quel che c'è.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Stasera quesadillas e fajitas di pollo con riso rosso e frijoles refritos (salsa di fagioli), accompagnati da tortillas caldissime e salsa piccantina ma non troppo. Inutile dire che è tutto strabuono, anche perchè cucinato lì per lì (con relativi tempi lunghi).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiklAQCAgTiaSvApJskmTlLq3lfBrObntodaU44zSpV-fjghTxFCE8WwhzOR5qYQSIQOuXwYl-qQcOKe_jPZQ_Z5r794_o_JTaD32DLvcfvxkNUK34ob9PUuqfMYOEPRMOxIOR2PN6zZzwVKFDVkyBaAAlJtmTbhbBVCot7-VlotetJWW40OfUBeyae_ks/s1209/20230710_201650.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiklAQCAgTiaSvApJskmTlLq3lfBrObntodaU44zSpV-fjghTxFCE8WwhzOR5qYQSIQOuXwYl-qQcOKe_jPZQ_Z5r794_o_JTaD32DLvcfvxkNUK34ob9PUuqfMYOEPRMOxIOR2PN6zZzwVKFDVkyBaAAlJtmTbhbBVCot7-VlotetJWW40OfUBeyae_ks/s320/20230710_201650.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6o5pt7i17Vxfx_iFgBkqche5KNhNH6aiqvNBNOjlnGpXCZ7dZcXi7Nr1m7YyTfBwfHF_xhUQfnx5InZydPWg3Z-WCAUP4XWoHQ6C0OmW2FZQBCfmWwJAscazY17DpqN-nm5UsxfC0rZIETPB_E3YTtU1OAJAcJzyelZSkPFc9GXYKrmo2xNL51lx5dx8/s1209/20230710_202036.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6o5pt7i17Vxfx_iFgBkqche5KNhNH6aiqvNBNOjlnGpXCZ7dZcXi7Nr1m7YyTfBwfHF_xhUQfnx5InZydPWg3Z-WCAUP4XWoHQ6C0OmW2FZQBCfmWwJAscazY17DpqN-nm5UsxfC0rZIETPB_E3YTtU1OAJAcJzyelZSkPFc9GXYKrmo2xNL51lx5dx8/s320/20230710_202036.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Chiediamo a Julio di prenotarci una corsa per domattina alle 8 per il sito di Calakmul, e lui ci dice che praticamente lo ha già fatto. Ci dà quindi appuntamento a colazione, alle 7.30, e buonanotte.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh640jT_sTnLQMnPokSY5nNSytqXjD3-fX2DIjme0pIct4CLGlU2PRmG4pFquPRWWRoMw1ooi-_qlbDzU37kuPe465jrkuYyIVdkoenSMEr0uxiZlm2UgYWoNh5vkA5k5CJs7C0Us3YL6_QfSd8Iyhxls6Uu2sOuK9sZmX4m5lzbJphzo9xdBjOIJeyaHA/s1209/20230710_205347.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh640jT_sTnLQMnPokSY5nNSytqXjD3-fX2DIjme0pIct4CLGlU2PRmG4pFquPRWWRoMw1ooi-_qlbDzU37kuPe465jrkuYyIVdkoenSMEr0uxiZlm2UgYWoNh5vkA5k5CJs7C0Us3YL6_QfSd8Iyhxls6Uu2sOuK9sZmX4m5lzbJphzo9xdBjOIJeyaHA/s320/20230710_205347.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">11/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Anello La Selva (Conhuas) - Calakmul sito archeologico</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La notte passa in un'inattesa frescura, pur chiusa sotto alla campana della zanzariera; ma alle prime luci inizia un concerto di canti d'uccelli di ogni genere, dai pappagallini verdi, che qui vivono a stormi sugli alberi, ai galli che razzolano liberi ovunque. Quando usciamo dalla nostra cabaña il sole è già alto e il caldo umido crea una cappa spessa e quasi tangibile, fatta di luce color latte e polvere chiara. Un minuto sull'amaca per acclimatarsi e siamo pronti per la colazione, gentilmente offerta dal paron Julio, che oltre a occuparsi di tutta la struttura, fa pure da cuoco e cameriere. Possiamo scegliere tra uova strapazzate semplici, uova strapazzate alla messicana, uova strapazzate con salsiccia, uova strapazzate con prosciutto e formaggio. Insomma, uova strapazzate. D'altronde questo villaggio conta più galline che cristiani, ha senso. I tempi di attesa sono sempre biblici, perché tutto è fatto fresco e al momento. Noi non siamo più abituati a questi ritmi, ma tornarci, anche solo per un po', fa solo bene.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlnRj_nTes8h6i8lMywuQk0kPEM7qhiNoBbVrTTCNcjgQQKcjmmxLalNIp29lvw1-GI7qEGLgFvyOyZLwWDrdui3wSiIJnlQtkiO-DhLGTQBGCTacFOu_zPywhZxFyYzCCRPFN49T-UnQlnuMuzsmoVM8D1vMUBxHOSiGov8rAVjf0k4uBKfPasc9MFZE/s1209/20230711_072028.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlnRj_nTes8h6i8lMywuQk0kPEM7qhiNoBbVrTTCNcjgQQKcjmmxLalNIp29lvw1-GI7qEGLgFvyOyZLwWDrdui3wSiIJnlQtkiO-DhLGTQBGCTacFOu_zPywhZxFyYzCCRPFN49T-UnQlnuMuzsmoVM8D1vMUBxHOSiGov8rAVjf0k4uBKfPasc9MFZE/s320/20230711_072028.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg9KUuJVMvZ-XSr8MpYX6kQTcpUipBCrL_VRyKkQS-iphSBzRnzB45brebFep1h0NxyO1Edc7c0PO_M7iZt7E65QeCsCkoBmKfanYBAFZySTk5OzkeYlEnq0G7lWxhwEX0Pg7YEOQIQiyc_aP_kpw0Yt30_b9YK0w7t9OP5AJOrtQEnJIFCCTVQaFejnk/s989/20230711_072155.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg9KUuJVMvZ-XSr8MpYX6kQTcpUipBCrL_VRyKkQS-iphSBzRnzB45brebFep1h0NxyO1Edc7c0PO_M7iZt7E65QeCsCkoBmKfanYBAFZySTk5OzkeYlEnq0G7lWxhwEX0Pg7YEOQIQiyc_aP_kpw0Yt30_b9YK0w7t9OP5AJOrtQEnJIFCCTVQaFejnk/s320/20230711_072155.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Intanto arriva Ciano, amico dell'amico del cuggino di Julio, che ci porterà al sito archeologico con la sua auto scassatissima, lungo una strada scassatissima che corre 60km nella giungla, nel cuore della riserva, a un passo dal Guatemala. Ci imbarchiamo. Inizia la corsa. Ciano vuol farci vedere quanto sia bravo a guidare a duecento all'ora su una strada strettissima, tutta curve e buche, rami caduti e pietroni. Spinge sull'acceleratore e non esista a superare i poveretti non local che hanno noleggiato un'auto e guidano non piano, semplicemente in modo adatto al contesto. Noi ogni volta abbiamo un piccolo infarto e dal finestrino facciamo gesti di scuse ai malcapitati superati. Il tutto con la musica a palla: mexdance, Pitbull e un gran parlare di gnocca e droga. Man mano ci addentriamo nella selva e la vegetazione si fa più fitta e pare chiudersi sulla strada. I controlli (e relativi biglietti da pagare) sono tre: uno per la comunità indigena, uno per la riserva e uno per il sito archeologico. Tutti conoscono Ciano e lui si comporta come un boss di quartiere anche con le guardie... Che lo sia? Si susseguono cartelli che invitano a rispettare la fauna selvatica (con il disegno di scimmie, tapiri e tucani), e altri che indicano il pericolo giaguari. Scrutiamo la vegetazione davanti a noi, nella speranza di vedere qualche animale e di non vomitare. Ed ecco il primo incontro: una nutrita famiglia di magnifici tacchini ocellati con stuolo di pulcini. Ciano, incredibilmente, non li investe, anzi, si ferma e li ammira quasi commosso. Lo stesso accade poco più avanti e ancora diverse volte nel corso del tragitto. Vediamo anche un temazate rojo, una sorta di piccolo daino con cornini minuscoli, e un'altra bestia abbastanza grandicella, che Ciano è convinto sia il giaguaro, cosa di cui si vanta al telefono con sadiochi. Secondo me era un procionide o qualcosa del genere.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEDM5QQEPp_vSKCUGeuia4Evzd6psqKsIubJbVy1m8Wt1VYb3gAk7AJIAk1lOYSkp4wKdq91zwEDWJkDfd1mf1rUSsLW4n6VCX0ELnOyV6D07zGpxpeDH3F3T_QDd8sJISN-P4wQATakc3wZiuDi-jcFqimfGHXmRzPt56KseGIqn0E9bDWQfgz_QFfQ/s1209/20230711_083837.jpg" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEDM5QQEPp_vSKCUGeuia4Evzd6psqKsIubJbVy1m8Wt1VYb3gAk7AJIAk1lOYSkp4wKdq91zwEDWJkDfd1mf1rUSsLW4n6VCX0ELnOyV6D07zGpxpeDH3F3T_QDd8sJISN-P4wQATakc3wZiuDi-jcFqimfGHXmRzPt56KseGIqn0E9bDWQfgz_QFfQ/s320/20230711_083837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lXdZcN_vlSEaECr3OmscVXSJkaaokiG49uyOJA1EplBcpQO_IcAfPd-ZQGlixA0iFq0V4A8xkjTva8NI9hI0DLPehr8fkWDWdmcJni5iA2pE73YFnIRo248HphN7YHkiS2WJsNsUUaQAUcjuben8j-fa7tPcCvdmh65pRnqX1XyfoG5uXk4FF-DO9TM/s1209/20230711_083839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lXdZcN_vlSEaECr3OmscVXSJkaaokiG49uyOJA1EplBcpQO_IcAfPd-ZQGlixA0iFq0V4A8xkjTva8NI9hI0DLPehr8fkWDWdmcJni5iA2pE73YFnIRo248HphN7YHkiS2WJsNsUUaQAUcjuben8j-fa7tPcCvdmh65pRnqX1XyfoG5uXk4FF-DO9TM/s320/20230711_083839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHf9Oi508TFXWmWot85Es2s4RYHqHbaIoiDi0Ph4tmjMNKUT1SOkDnJsIB8koikki8p1QusQscXCnS3YqGReb67-6MWROYZ22vlfSg_v7wXlrGet27OGWmu_DVzTeS3nxmxCx9LEnmtzudqqHDIXcUU5J9T3xCZOIZCgbqPgPAPbz6KkvL_voZJue1R8/s1209/20230711_083841.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHf9Oi508TFXWmWot85Es2s4RYHqHbaIoiDi0Ph4tmjMNKUT1SOkDnJsIB8koikki8p1QusQscXCnS3YqGReb67-6MWROYZ22vlfSg_v7wXlrGet27OGWmu_DVzTeS3nxmxCx9LEnmtzudqqHDIXcUU5J9T3xCZOIZCgbqPgPAPbz6KkvL_voZJue1R8/s320/20230711_083841.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Nu0BVGMhiNOTR6Kv4FYZq0uUJHX5nxtEX0H2WmzKXckV0t9OeHVPuxbrtXcFK5KfodDs4_6NMqbsEDDKA5w8pIFRpKaJ8p4MIlqTY09dKUoIaoVHwTcpedAQFoXU53u4nK9W9askhMRsOe8yWRQYUED_kwBmHIP9KXVHk8u_nKx6dNLpvFZsHZi1d3I/s1209/20230711_083853.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Nu0BVGMhiNOTR6Kv4FYZq0uUJHX5nxtEX0H2WmzKXckV0t9OeHVPuxbrtXcFK5KfodDs4_6NMqbsEDDKA5w8pIFRpKaJ8p4MIlqTY09dKUoIaoVHwTcpedAQFoXU53u4nK9W9askhMRsOe8yWRQYUED_kwBmHIP9KXVHk8u_nKx6dNLpvFZsHZi1d3I/s320/20230711_083853.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6yrQ-X4NPL2buszoKZL2mv42T_o8dToVCi7mEZCCy5PjdzP-t0KdwY-nLaMcj3WjIQvdSJ0FaX1ji3Kz1gaRal96gG6mFlGGFC4AFg_7tdmnP8E-4Ohe4XGosL7ae8RIBHRa99PExVdpR_kbaYvWmh6NiUHIxDwIwEN_zt7NnpdcvFBo860PLZxEOLqE/s1209/20230711_083857.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6yrQ-X4NPL2buszoKZL2mv42T_o8dToVCi7mEZCCy5PjdzP-t0KdwY-nLaMcj3WjIQvdSJ0FaX1ji3Kz1gaRal96gG6mFlGGFC4AFg_7tdmnP8E-4Ohe4XGosL7ae8RIBHRa99PExVdpR_kbaYvWmh6NiUHIxDwIwEN_zt7NnpdcvFBo860PLZxEOLqE/s320/20230711_083857.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj443XgtOm0myEh-4mrhnSguHFpKGaNmUHRTkeMt4yVazgCeGYiDbqyPEwFIOmPv2WrCclfczexYQpPAHzxWx3x04mHvLmsOiC37HX0UlL4lMXd8LTzqSMCoJbrCUPKAC_6Rx11Wmn65FmdeciYK0HwTIQkc1EyYxGjPL1MHoBk4ZmidHIdCEFv2ZlSLiM/s1209/20230711_083904.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj443XgtOm0myEh-4mrhnSguHFpKGaNmUHRTkeMt4yVazgCeGYiDbqyPEwFIOmPv2WrCclfczexYQpPAHzxWx3x04mHvLmsOiC37HX0UlL4lMXd8LTzqSMCoJbrCUPKAC_6Rx11Wmn65FmdeciYK0HwTIQkc1EyYxGjPL1MHoBk4ZmidHIdCEFv2ZlSLiM/s320/20230711_083904.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Al trentasettesimo infarto da manovra azzardata, arriviamo, finalmente, alle porte del sito archeologico. Io fremo, non vedo l'ora, ne accarezzo l'immagine da giorni. Non ho mai visto delle rovine così immerse nella giungla, così sperdute e remote, dove la bellezza è ovunque: nelle pietre antiche e nella natura che le circonda. Ciano ci dà appuntamento a tre ore dopo, e finalmente accediamo alla meraviglia. Il sito costringe a camminare, e molto, su sentieri che si snodano nella vegetazione fittissima che quasi non lascia trapelare la luce. Le diverse tipologie di piante, con i loro fiori e i loro profumi, già sono uno spettacolo che si potrebbe ammirare per ore.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5nb-Eib4in3Fgbj3RmejO4qj4tDwurFvzHAmpXfaFvxDra7dAOFPpvdTUTpHlTV3RpUOXqV9rsgs7vn6B5tp9EboFc3M3xRX-ANwwxFTBypwRmQifuX3TSmBLW5EshCveSsqAZZlopWIPf07TZtTuhOnyY0jyw-xuHv1qtc1bMcsUYhpr3T6ADbMbfj8/s1209/20230711_093056.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5nb-Eib4in3Fgbj3RmejO4qj4tDwurFvzHAmpXfaFvxDra7dAOFPpvdTUTpHlTV3RpUOXqV9rsgs7vn6B5tp9EboFc3M3xRX-ANwwxFTBypwRmQifuX3TSmBLW5EshCveSsqAZZlopWIPf07TZtTuhOnyY0jyw-xuHv1qtc1bMcsUYhpr3T6ADbMbfj8/s320/20230711_093056.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fnqzA5E-6vStIEy95yo5RHdggQ91cpURolcvGbLlkAxDBNnoymiSb4kBp6-hpxLxDiF3yE4dBj3b6L5Gi2zBpl4Pk24ka64GENHH9CC_xVo-Qq5t32oPFsIUbLw8Rap2AmoR_penptFp3i5853g1zp3ONn4OYfHmAmAdpn_cbrjrsLBq6qdUR7XWctE/s1209/20230711_093746.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6fnqzA5E-6vStIEy95yo5RHdggQ91cpURolcvGbLlkAxDBNnoymiSb4kBp6-hpxLxDiF3yE4dBj3b6L5Gi2zBpl4Pk24ka64GENHH9CC_xVo-Qq5t32oPFsIUbLw8Rap2AmoR_penptFp3i5853g1zp3ONn4OYfHmAmAdpn_cbrjrsLBq6qdUR7XWctE/s320/20230711_093746.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlNKZvATHSXImocE15KhvjjIZQtuqdLo9Yo96FhqnC95_8dfQ5YJgpLv-_d8HJFe_tSZ9Pwv9es_jh5XumlOOKODQbTTshde10l9ezn5ITEgCa1C8tqnvZYenQbln_w0wur7W4hyeoGoumgoLk-h7Jy9ynKlJwCbO8_cEo8grUqNJ7NQ9ZumRrwba6Iq4/s1209/20230711_094057.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlNKZvATHSXImocE15KhvjjIZQtuqdLo9Yo96FhqnC95_8dfQ5YJgpLv-_d8HJFe_tSZ9Pwv9es_jh5XumlOOKODQbTTshde10l9ezn5ITEgCa1C8tqnvZYenQbln_w0wur7W4hyeoGoumgoLk-h7Jy9ynKlJwCbO8_cEo8grUqNJ7NQ9ZumRrwba6Iq4/s320/20230711_094057.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">riproduzione di una maschera di giada trovata qui</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4mONNRkGllUzaNX8hbfO9KxfNooj92XAXcXgN2ap-Y2Bm9QpMogoXH1CwnsmfWFhO3AQZ_hhLX2BR2daaXHqjokwV4TNkle72OKwFL3oE8-t83VTTam-4YrYN5J0SNp4H7vze4LbuZnKlojZdojvoCFiOOMA-sWgm2ZMiw39fFrQsuuKV_Q4J-6DLGQ/s979/20230711_094429.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4mONNRkGllUzaNX8hbfO9KxfNooj92XAXcXgN2ap-Y2Bm9QpMogoXH1CwnsmfWFhO3AQZ_hhLX2BR2daaXHqjokwV4TNkle72OKwFL3oE8-t83VTTam-4YrYN5J0SNp4H7vze4LbuZnKlojZdojvoCFiOOMA-sWgm2ZMiw39fFrQsuuKV_Q4J-6DLGQ/s320/20230711_094429.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">riproduzione degli affreschi ritrovati a ornare le pareti: rappresentano, caso unico, scene di vita quotidiana e non cerimonie politiche o religiose</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldsjOwieMtD9NqblUydqID4yEw2_rl2XUHX_p8dM-rf-LXI6iUyER7Itn3MflW-NQQJUELvBGU0vaMa46oypjEChitOo-EmKUVf1N9_l8A6z8GOOSWQAxrmQBdK2F02x9sQwwS8xYZEsq6t1wEwQ2_oE4UaITq0thhYll2hEH6wYopeW39dSujpUZ9Ew/s1209/20230711_094445.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldsjOwieMtD9NqblUydqID4yEw2_rl2XUHX_p8dM-rf-LXI6iUyER7Itn3MflW-NQQJUELvBGU0vaMa46oypjEChitOo-EmKUVf1N9_l8A6z8GOOSWQAxrmQBdK2F02x9sQwwS8xYZEsq6t1wEwQ2_oE4UaITq0thhYll2hEH6wYopeW39dSujpUZ9Ew/s320/20230711_094445.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDS-J5MjRbEF7Iga7tE3EWZEPPkquDvBRDl6QZAo7ygY6y_v8YR3zNbzlSk_u4Tcd7Z3S46gd2iv6aXo5GAKEm60c-gFmDQo3eHZV0aDzRiJpjr8BkANRBaeRJ-QCYM5QHP2yd04n006dPKNjn9vuckbCWYV0ExOBXcwtgQ4u790VIk_vA4kNOCyUjfCg/s1209/20230711_094503.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDS-J5MjRbEF7Iga7tE3EWZEPPkquDvBRDl6QZAo7ygY6y_v8YR3zNbzlSk_u4Tcd7Z3S46gd2iv6aXo5GAKEm60c-gFmDQo3eHZV0aDzRiJpjr8BkANRBaeRJ-QCYM5QHP2yd04n006dPKNjn9vuckbCWYV0ExOBXcwtgQ4u790VIk_vA4kNOCyUjfCg/s320/20230711_094503.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXocz4-sI2NFXOgquoJaxhPGL1VElViVywIUYzDiiBdonq8yoZt3_4WUZ6g-ep3D0nkhswWpu28kstCaAPjZDGF6ow1CX3ZG0A-0cyz9hj8LMBHCd2P01o2SUji5FGscEEXnOVFUcPu6EFiiPER4_L-mmjvy7lAZpEtNQt-ma0gZfHPvdqVFuKr4wvS9Q/s1209/20230711_094542.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXocz4-sI2NFXOgquoJaxhPGL1VElViVywIUYzDiiBdonq8yoZt3_4WUZ6g-ep3D0nkhswWpu28kstCaAPjZDGF6ow1CX3ZG0A-0cyz9hj8LMBHCd2P01o2SUji5FGscEEXnOVFUcPu6EFiiPER4_L-mmjvy7lAZpEtNQt-ma0gZfHPvdqVFuKr4wvS9Q/s320/20230711_094542.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">riproduzione di un fregio in stucco ritrovato qui</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiQbREsC8U8l31H4o62ioQeR33KEw-wPdEWwsO-TMTw-UsIq5ddm6C-c_BJQUhXBTUP_Zu_XWJU6CnCC7fu734E1tVVzhHTe-XmgYzYFO-6jXXI3i-SphfYd0zRHwHgk0wxeiiypPbaWAhtoB8L7Qq9hOXzUNLLrtW1NXcfAheONUpr1LLPrT4I_ya8w/s1209/20230711_094611.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiQbREsC8U8l31H4o62ioQeR33KEw-wPdEWwsO-TMTw-UsIq5ddm6C-c_BJQUhXBTUP_Zu_XWJU6CnCC7fu734E1tVVzhHTe-XmgYzYFO-6jXXI3i-SphfYd0zRHwHgk0wxeiiypPbaWAhtoB8L7Qq9hOXzUNLLrtW1NXcfAheONUpr1LLPrT4I_ya8w/s320/20230711_094611.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpvNE_d1WBsfFWGp83Zpdot-kPab5d4HEG3cfA5Z6Hfvq8x1fQkZiHUYxUnDB_6WafTjY_HLOqz-oxgYGSvl5SPZaZnuf0TpUXdB8Yy3Yepu4NtnAmSu6P4KKa6pAtwkm_VO8y1mecYdmHOjhFEk6iVln5QKZ3GlZOqr_pYZBAxCu9meO58gnKjIhY3L8/s1209/20230711_094631.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpvNE_d1WBsfFWGp83Zpdot-kPab5d4HEG3cfA5Z6Hfvq8x1fQkZiHUYxUnDB_6WafTjY_HLOqz-oxgYGSvl5SPZaZnuf0TpUXdB8Yy3Yepu4NtnAmSu6P4KKa6pAtwkm_VO8y1mecYdmHOjhFEk6iVln5QKZ3GlZOqr_pYZBAxCu9meO58gnKjIhY3L8/s320/20230711_094631.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Poi iniziano le prime rovine, in un crescendo di magnificenza, dai complessi abitativi, di cui sono rimaste solo le piattaforme in pietra, agli edifici amministrativi, sempre più maestosi e imponenti, fino ai templi, le grandi piramidi che svettano al di sopra delle chiome degli alberi bucando il mar di verde oceanico che vibra linfa a perdita d'occhio. Iniziamo poi a vedere la scimmie, che si segnalano per il casino che fanno muovendosi tra le frasche e facendo i loro bisogni a pioggia su chi sta sotto. Ne vediamo di specie diverse: le piccole scimmie ragno e le più massicce scimmie urlatrici (che però non urlano, si vede che non si sentono minacciate). Le foto che ho scattato sono proporzionate al mezzo che ho (il telefono), e servono solo come ricordo personale. Però vi assicuro che, da sotto agli alberi, si vedono benissimo! Con le loro manaccette e le faccine curiose, con gli occhi scuri scuri che ci osservano con lo stesso stupore con cui noi osserviamo loro. Sono il nostro specchio.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkEpoNIE1jHGpLho46WchZlTzFQayxnV2m0yUUnhq3vGsnVfCrcCHW50aGzZh1_m6IdB-oZW_A9ebDu_dkEjr19U1BKEmO9sgfwMhhxn37HHYMUuWgF2lqn8r1lNbCGxYJ_9AKCs0ybXVBJf03yjDcQ-M_G19iB2xlwv_EBrOm0Ie95yT6negxQNawAYw/s1209/20230711_100613.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkEpoNIE1jHGpLho46WchZlTzFQayxnV2m0yUUnhq3vGsnVfCrcCHW50aGzZh1_m6IdB-oZW_A9ebDu_dkEjr19U1BKEmO9sgfwMhhxn37HHYMUuWgF2lqn8r1lNbCGxYJ_9AKCs0ybXVBJf03yjDcQ-M_G19iB2xlwv_EBrOm0Ie95yT6negxQNawAYw/s320/20230711_100613.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnX0o205PH6w0f4DvBtQaWUFqBO2sSQ3624SMkxzPDSpWfXesuKeFVamvabLUzlPi4c4zLXDRqWM1dthH39mQS3e9Mx3VhMfZZw3fh3sXlcIEqDwaPNWrWFiaCYuV9dq_lEKYElrDxcdWigxC2-xQvMQKi1a0zD7J4GrGN0yn03yWC-H2bzoGCTzveLiI/s979/20230711_100719.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnX0o205PH6w0f4DvBtQaWUFqBO2sSQ3624SMkxzPDSpWfXesuKeFVamvabLUzlPi4c4zLXDRqWM1dthH39mQS3e9Mx3VhMfZZw3fh3sXlcIEqDwaPNWrWFiaCYuV9dq_lEKYElrDxcdWigxC2-xQvMQKi1a0zD7J4GrGN0yn03yWC-H2bzoGCTzveLiI/s320/20230711_100719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUSgVCBuDVRLfJOk_NiZwqftn0n1KkhDN1XgTLJVa26xGbJutfjIa_BH0iK-N_OdRWtzX1Wj1MXYg6mEX_XawR_Q4-PAUFDVlpmUeYm9m8wjU5JeBM8S45sDCmYMrrdMgGQpRbX66I16so6ScDYBq1vktc_f7tgkT_UCLexg-_5146ul2qcu14OcBqts/s979/20230711_102022.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUSgVCBuDVRLfJOk_NiZwqftn0n1KkhDN1XgTLJVa26xGbJutfjIa_BH0iK-N_OdRWtzX1Wj1MXYg6mEX_XawR_Q4-PAUFDVlpmUeYm9m8wjU5JeBM8S45sDCmYMrrdMgGQpRbX66I16so6ScDYBq1vktc_f7tgkT_UCLexg-_5146ul2qcu14OcBqts/s320/20230711_102022.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC308Gtc24VRiWThrZbpm3-mjYC0KObcvvTmWG3pdSZSjBW9kibON6H4rs8483Soc4t_i1yI2RjybFroWiuEAcVklNWTV_b15V5tf1tUPwGEL7nac_9F32GSiA166aDCtRjBnR4qesY7lJuYHwTu72TWaB1m-zqFqe2FDYurbMCJ_XlHBpzXaZuYXHfgs/s1209/20230711_102450.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC308Gtc24VRiWThrZbpm3-mjYC0KObcvvTmWG3pdSZSjBW9kibON6H4rs8483Soc4t_i1yI2RjybFroWiuEAcVklNWTV_b15V5tf1tUPwGEL7nac_9F32GSiA166aDCtRjBnR4qesY7lJuYHwTu72TWaB1m-zqFqe2FDYurbMCJ_XlHBpzXaZuYXHfgs/s320/20230711_102450.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHgpio6l4vKw1aHUTqhIPchLXriBkyIhzT0RoSsLtjHDVhNcUH1RJ3estVpcTAAuNC8RUrsbpily4442FBsbt93_f1iok_MpzZBi7WaQVrwsXl9mPD8TxvX4pC21B79gzazdm7Lx2JwZ_tnZSMrHh7AIGPYyr02z5YT2hPH-JLDCn65x2S_VQEdiT-AnQ/s979/20230711_102456.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHgpio6l4vKw1aHUTqhIPchLXriBkyIhzT0RoSsLtjHDVhNcUH1RJ3estVpcTAAuNC8RUrsbpily4442FBsbt93_f1iok_MpzZBi7WaQVrwsXl9mPD8TxvX4pC21B79gzazdm7Lx2JwZ_tnZSMrHh7AIGPYyr02z5YT2hPH-JLDCn65x2S_VQEdiT-AnQ/s320/20230711_102456.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSCxrY80lEDhvSTcBaRKmbVj15uOvx5FG4o2C6KouB8lcaRUnJkL6-QTBjM0vplCAsrpj9HpQttIgKQP-cW80aRMOUZKXYz98hJMwSE3r6tjphV_Qt1N5UKPoRG7vLmqixgBYq-AlmySxZJZOZNmO4HUIwsfL-UI2DJA2J8Fjg6eCHfLjFmFWiCKWhbpk/s1209/20230711_102557.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSCxrY80lEDhvSTcBaRKmbVj15uOvx5FG4o2C6KouB8lcaRUnJkL6-QTBjM0vplCAsrpj9HpQttIgKQP-cW80aRMOUZKXYz98hJMwSE3r6tjphV_Qt1N5UKPoRG7vLmqixgBYq-AlmySxZJZOZNmO4HUIwsfL-UI2DJA2J8Fjg6eCHfLjFmFWiCKWhbpk/s320/20230711_102557.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'umarell</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivS9pDIW-YGL58RUFzBI-XCXdCk4rioozmx6yjsNOsGkmdhjZwg92T5ZEtNgHeEyXHnKEaTtbDXqZNqMXhjCiFFThATs6CuYcOAzQjVW3R_SSwuBMu4EkmXTq5V-yMAB8Q8UdZjN0TmkFI2L1wQfHzNpIpZFtenzIWpzLQs3rA04CWC0lhi43-24JPej8/s1209/20230711_103046.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivS9pDIW-YGL58RUFzBI-XCXdCk4rioozmx6yjsNOsGkmdhjZwg92T5ZEtNgHeEyXHnKEaTtbDXqZNqMXhjCiFFThATs6CuYcOAzQjVW3R_SSwuBMu4EkmXTq5V-yMAB8Q8UdZjN0TmkFI2L1wQfHzNpIpZFtenzIWpzLQs3rA04CWC0lhi43-24JPej8/s320/20230711_103046.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scimmia ragno</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoMEebnCyJ6YoeehHcybK4D9CGns00eICtUApsnIWgnN3IQq79Hph3T3XDFs4CKtj-DwVoZfmlKR1RxWNbRf5WfQyCCY4Ej6AnXYwRjObyfvMLJ76_F_1_Aw6TpVf89rlr9YPaGYo_aXKueXx32no9fD93yGU7fYf-cwTH8oSka3b35a_d7fti9mKDmns/s1209/20230711_103420.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoMEebnCyJ6YoeehHcybK4D9CGns00eICtUApsnIWgnN3IQq79Hph3T3XDFs4CKtj-DwVoZfmlKR1RxWNbRf5WfQyCCY4Ej6AnXYwRjObyfvMLJ76_F_1_Aw6TpVf89rlr9YPaGYo_aXKueXx32no9fD93yGU7fYf-cwTH8oSka3b35a_d7fti9mKDmns/s320/20230711_103420.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">due scimmie ragno!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLKrQRN_YjUiJds3HtiCEz4uUzTFYP4xDsSP3-zFqg3DkOyhRi9XdSzI84X2zNzQicypSLIZmpaJVCSYc1eTVJ6MgQ_upD-2EkAjSQfs-1GFVfkr4lXIbMABFYXiq4rMXEDlnCJqwp2B8NvOKytXVKw3gZSEp61oJOanuk86h8L2PkbaqyTV3HKKC3gU/s1209/20230711_103837.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLKrQRN_YjUiJds3HtiCEz4uUzTFYP4xDsSP3-zFqg3DkOyhRi9XdSzI84X2zNzQicypSLIZmpaJVCSYc1eTVJ6MgQ_upD-2EkAjSQfs-1GFVfkr4lXIbMABFYXiq4rMXEDlnCJqwp2B8NvOKytXVKw3gZSEp61oJOanuk86h8L2PkbaqyTV3HKKC3gU/s320/20230711_103837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnf3XYKqWi4GcEpu4CLw9WtknLTtl1phFptgpUK-NXfM7jQYPhgzpgkWWKFQZjpAcdlGNrPqpguqF9VloFjv7jbqgYrc_O1p4pfodg7Z5l4NWBh4qu88kpqqEjsgC0m5N8E3oUBJUkfMq_sOj9RHERU9Z-Hx-Un59m2KXKfuBXE2IiBxhr2WMtiBj5pus/s979/20230711_104114.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnf3XYKqWi4GcEpu4CLw9WtknLTtl1phFptgpUK-NXfM7jQYPhgzpgkWWKFQZjpAcdlGNrPqpguqF9VloFjv7jbqgYrc_O1p4pfodg7Z5l4NWBh4qu88kpqqEjsgC0m5N8E3oUBJUkfMq_sOj9RHERU9Z-Hx-Un59m2KXKfuBXE2IiBxhr2WMtiBj5pus/s320/20230711_104114.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgsnOerxTSz_4NWtPw24-Qk7SwPuWPWxw8o7DEzvEtdCN4jq-D48cFFvS0ApuZv3Cnd5skm-lteU5ZeUMmvOU0tQ1u83qebO72KjWAUom1Oi_6cdnz5hqSCTXblulG8PrV27IIX-uPFH6nLBOM_1aO2R5zF1nzN77ofkhDOboMa7-no2uDsBSYV-O1lA/s1209/20230711_104406.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRgsnOerxTSz_4NWtPw24-Qk7SwPuWPWxw8o7DEzvEtdCN4jq-D48cFFvS0ApuZv3Cnd5skm-lteU5ZeUMmvOU0tQ1u83qebO72KjWAUom1Oi_6cdnz5hqSCTXblulG8PrV27IIX-uPFH6nLBOM_1aO2R5zF1nzN77ofkhDOboMa7-no2uDsBSYV-O1lA/s320/20230711_104406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQ0qzzcdhe5Aq02Wlbo07JAvaxpaw2IPnNGg-yRL2Ev6BXlqGynXXzmAgW6a0AD0dj0eQRTdIwQadfDxo90KTtFJ9g7x8lMh_CDI5HkePOKy5aNOJ6-F5XyXtHg8qa1q6YEI6Ph7WSYylqatc0KrAZJ1Cl1Hhg7lWEsK34lpa5iMWbPPZ5WJop-00byA/s1209/20230711_105128.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQ0qzzcdhe5Aq02Wlbo07JAvaxpaw2IPnNGg-yRL2Ev6BXlqGynXXzmAgW6a0AD0dj0eQRTdIwQadfDxo90KTtFJ9g7x8lMh_CDI5HkePOKy5aNOJ6-F5XyXtHg8qa1q6YEI6Ph7WSYylqatc0KrAZJ1Cl1Hhg7lWEsK34lpa5iMWbPPZ5WJop-00byA/s320/20230711_105128.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;">Come dicevo, a Calkmul si deve camminare. Ma anche scalare! Infatti si può salire (ascendere, direi) su tutti gli edifici principali, per osservare dall'altro il tetto di foglie della giungla e i cocuzzoli di pietra dei templi che fan capolino, interrompendo il verde verdissimo che si spinge fino all'orizzonte, fino in Guatemala. Arrampicarsi È MOLTO FATICOSO, perché fa un caldo insoffribile ed è tutto al sole, perché i gradini sono alti e stretti e irregolari, e ripidissimi. Ci si piega, ci si inchina, si sale a quattro zampe, si è costretti all'umidità. Ma che cosa si vede dall'alto! È un'emozione indescrivibile, che prende allo stomaco e fa commuovere. Mi è capitato a Machu Picchu, anche, e difronte ai deserti. Un misto di senso di piccolezza, di amechania, ma anche di grandezza, tanto è riuscito l'essere umano a costruire verso il cielo, per un dio, per vincere la morte, per sconfiggere il tempo e l'oblio. Per l'arte, che serve a questo. A permanere nell'impermanenza, a r-esistere nella finitudine.</div><div class="yj6qo"></div><div class="adL" dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGr4ztqW7E_gHxrq-_zxGQf47FfBYx9zmYR87t8RM4EAPf0tpnV04fAFVQLw-JVeZFleo0DVOa8gPeUSvysAMUIGTPy1ViQR6S9zAKAcLauSilSBoljY82mHY0569yY4x2-tCHUgaKNVOf6ikGXCP87WXpmcdsrwDlW_ZzTrF4v6zdBPwbhBX0eI-5VuU/s1209/20230711_105321.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGr4ztqW7E_gHxrq-_zxGQf47FfBYx9zmYR87t8RM4EAPf0tpnV04fAFVQLw-JVeZFleo0DVOa8gPeUSvysAMUIGTPy1ViQR6S9zAKAcLauSilSBoljY82mHY0569yY4x2-tCHUgaKNVOf6ikGXCP87WXpmcdsrwDlW_ZzTrF4v6zdBPwbhBX0eI-5VuU/s320/20230711_105321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGiiJSVjAptiynjLkSduTpFJVpCvkeHRtQyoIxOzf0jFUn2u-Yf5TuVVSKZ5KJ5RcgnReL-jZpL_Rp6d6OJLAGHDMhYiADvLuLeVIP9NARTltot4rXu9bwpKlvdRu7DBL0EWbL7XFrKWPo_Bnuu0CORdk-aAK1FFEXBQHLHwOUAtxekPTgCwrF-xpNCU/s1209/20230711_105346.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGiiJSVjAptiynjLkSduTpFJVpCvkeHRtQyoIxOzf0jFUn2u-Yf5TuVVSKZ5KJ5RcgnReL-jZpL_Rp6d6OJLAGHDMhYiADvLuLeVIP9NARTltot4rXu9bwpKlvdRu7DBL0EWbL7XFrKWPo_Bnuu0CORdk-aAK1FFEXBQHLHwOUAtxekPTgCwrF-xpNCU/s320/20230711_105346.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRt28DfpuQBc39boVF74QN7YowyDKP9FMFaVv_NQUjJI3-Q3ty9ez7O8DyzWROwvZvhHg_kgs4swlIktNEfvaSxmDd6qyguhYfmnfEktIrj2fz-ADnlWa7qwo9W8ZXaaR6BwC5dh4WD6rcvSf3kS3nJoz32XuFcJTGcD8fTVoAKKpF_eThG9HALcMY74/s979/20230711_105504.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRt28DfpuQBc39boVF74QN7YowyDKP9FMFaVv_NQUjJI3-Q3ty9ez7O8DyzWROwvZvhHg_kgs4swlIktNEfvaSxmDd6qyguhYfmnfEktIrj2fz-ADnlWa7qwo9W8ZXaaR6BwC5dh4WD6rcvSf3kS3nJoz32XuFcJTGcD8fTVoAKKpF_eThG9HALcMY74/s320/20230711_105504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4iMDvzD8e_LNta4rIfnKjmPwgryfxG16rlP5GEbmIPsEdl0woYQqFkXPIuqRvZ_fCErZSQltPRLCG5OcjKFxOy3fAjJOn1pIKcQO76OvF94gENJTyyYPyQQbxv-QwHp7OLoi5JEO-hLueWHc-kb6FZ-289w8HZ9z_4v-9SoscStz05EmZl8jz53-PQg/s1209/20230711_105707.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4iMDvzD8e_LNta4rIfnKjmPwgryfxG16rlP5GEbmIPsEdl0woYQqFkXPIuqRvZ_fCErZSQltPRLCG5OcjKFxOy3fAjJOn1pIKcQO76OvF94gENJTyyYPyQQbxv-QwHp7OLoi5JEO-hLueWHc-kb6FZ-289w8HZ9z_4v-9SoscStz05EmZl8jz53-PQg/s320/20230711_105707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2WToDyir8g6yTqpyl4cRBZZvJD7yjqLccJQSdbS9YZt8Ew4BWBu-UCmxy0JZt2ecDvpAoM7A0LXu234Iwk1iHhIgpX49j_3JAvc1Lo2E0BqXCDqoptWaCdK5B9SyyLs-MkpdlW9V9pDPLtRAZ595fKDI4ARp3duFykIGjqUfpDQ6fUzhcwVjn3M4gbs/s480/IMG-20230711-WA0004.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="360" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2WToDyir8g6yTqpyl4cRBZZvJD7yjqLccJQSdbS9YZt8Ew4BWBu-UCmxy0JZt2ecDvpAoM7A0LXu234Iwk1iHhIgpX49j_3JAvc1Lo2E0BqXCDqoptWaCdK5B9SyyLs-MkpdlW9V9pDPLtRAZ595fKDI4ARp3duFykIGjqUfpDQ6fUzhcwVjn3M4gbs/s320/IMG-20230711-WA0004.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">volpe molto piccola su piramide molto grande</td></tr></tbody></table><div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5AFlzD-xuTVW4YPHWZa9Iz4kGVECwGBZWb88MtlueMxEChUQeW2ZO-mHJkzPJIuxRnkJgh5yS2K7IBNKBbEvFwSMEvUzq6aDtMPmMVHpwcDVrv2UImk20Ju9QNzfRdmhiqHdJJyr-c_9Pk77L9q9ZvWzEDaPreBVUoi5REFTTHoKTeLnvPakboyjkShc/s1209/20230711_105811.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5AFlzD-xuTVW4YPHWZa9Iz4kGVECwGBZWb88MtlueMxEChUQeW2ZO-mHJkzPJIuxRnkJgh5yS2K7IBNKBbEvFwSMEvUzq6aDtMPmMVHpwcDVrv2UImk20Ju9QNzfRdmhiqHdJJyr-c_9Pk77L9q9ZvWzEDaPreBVUoi5REFTTHoKTeLnvPakboyjkShc/s320/20230711_105811.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La domanda lecita, a questo punto, è: ma che città era Calakmul? Era una metropoli, forse la più grande città maya durante l'epoca classica. Ospitava una popolazione di oltre 50.000 persone, con 6000 strutture su 72kmq, e strade, pozzi, case di cui non si è conservato nulla. Solo una minima parte, finora, è stata scavata, da quando il sito è stato riscoperto per caso nel 1931 da un botanico inglese. Si conosceva il glifo con il sovrano a testa di serpente, poichè era stato ritrovato in tanti altri siti, vicini e lontani, ma non si sapeva cosa indicasse. Poi si è capito: era il segno di sottomissione o alleanza a Calakmul, città egemone di una regione vastissima, in continua lotta contro Tikal, la sua rivale oggi in Guatemala. Le alterne vicende belliche tra le due "capitali" di fragili imperi, spesso sottomessi al capriccio dei sovrani delle città stato, che si alleavano ora con una, ora con l'altra, sono il cuore della storia di un popolo di un'area sconfinata per quel che era il frammentario mondo maya. Di Calakmul si conoscono i nomi dei sovrani più importanti, e le città alleate, quelle che pagavano tributo e quelle sconfitte in guerra. Tutto è riportato sulle numerosissime stele ritrovate.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT2slV1GQJ-oKK2ajROKw_i5HscDASzB1U2BQySeRBp1s_QRWTj44gKwqXFf6KTDsJDS7SZb_Bk4IagTqHWqFACaxt80ZMIWilXQZZD-XPKtbhV9KOebEHKz0puynfOXtJN-jfBgAvQw5VZ0nrJRKeZax7-7-Jb6v0ryRek2FL6WovEHdR2ol0EoCEdek/s1209/20230711_110210.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT2slV1GQJ-oKK2ajROKw_i5HscDASzB1U2BQySeRBp1s_QRWTj44gKwqXFf6KTDsJDS7SZb_Bk4IagTqHWqFACaxt80ZMIWilXQZZD-XPKtbhV9KOebEHKz0puynfOXtJN-jfBgAvQw5VZ0nrJRKeZax7-7-Jb6v0ryRek2FL6WovEHdR2ol0EoCEdek/s320/20230711_110210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh324c4qdhlmlSDchKgQbkhE6_tyE6tgoH15Vab3xYfFNcX8ABgVHTqzHCkXLcqVTo37r14OikcBIWiX60444RTP6h9NhJrY32tZLAS2EEIB3y3D5dsrI5yF28uBNPJmhYdjLnorYdwuhoWcuuLc-MEpOLCQjBrqgsOmQpl3LLsaBKr1YOmhjN-uy7-7OM/s979/20230711_110240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh324c4qdhlmlSDchKgQbkhE6_tyE6tgoH15Vab3xYfFNcX8ABgVHTqzHCkXLcqVTo37r14OikcBIWiX60444RTP6h9NhJrY32tZLAS2EEIB3y3D5dsrI5yF28uBNPJmhYdjLnorYdwuhoWcuuLc-MEpOLCQjBrqgsOmQpl3LLsaBKr1YOmhjN-uy7-7OM/s320/20230711_110240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In questo sito le cose da vedere sono tante e talmente concentrate che, a un certo punto, non si sa più dove rivolgere la propria attenzione. Le scimmie scimmieggiano, e per me rappresentano uno spettacolo magnetico che resterei ad ammirare per ore. Anche perchè ci sono tanti cuccioli ed è impagabile vedere come le madri se li portano appresso e insegnano loro tutto il necessario per essere una scimmietta di successo. Poi ci sono le rovine immerse nella giungla, una più affascinante dell'altra, in un climax che porta in crescendo a riscoprire le rovine come se si fosse i primi a metterci piede, con la stessa incredula meraviglia degli archeologi che si sono recati qui un secolo fa. Ora vi beccate una carrellata di foto di monos y ruinas y selva dall'alto, perchè è tutto bellissimo.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQbiUlylBNVWyb3D8MfKWcPO3OVNTpEJDSo5CFiEAgVK2fqel4PuXCBd4qFMLnY2ERicgO_W8kw5YJsO5IyuxpnqxU3Z8rqlTeSK8INyi_UzxG4jGrrKNZyQBJt2oxK6xsTwXrd6uU2X7tSen0wHaEJGL1KvUHNrF4j9_jEktmQ1_SSCM92caGlasveKM/s1209/20230711_110429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQbiUlylBNVWyb3D8MfKWcPO3OVNTpEJDSo5CFiEAgVK2fqel4PuXCBd4qFMLnY2ERicgO_W8kw5YJsO5IyuxpnqxU3Z8rqlTeSK8INyi_UzxG4jGrrKNZyQBJt2oxK6xsTwXrd6uU2X7tSen0wHaEJGL1KvUHNrF4j9_jEktmQ1_SSCM92caGlasveKM/s320/20230711_110429.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTrwKFxLKejnNzuSQaPGAPmWaj41yeKenynQU249YnJ2KBDlpqzYuJLC22dI7aEKnIe4u_3xAKuVD5pModQv0xAiI_iv4Qlzi5i_yvg_LWZnJ1uN3fGvFHCOoAQVHmLIMKeNzdbT9gy_W5NWbnqCQy4heJfISgybfKmU9Ds3sgEQO8f9X3wqS7LcX0RS0/s320/20230711_111203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdprgig5o_XQnHnf2uF8GOsqeKfiNaPY6vRi0QLBSOoiep84ZmtzIw-02mKMcrD4XJQrDC8EkKkZN6wTD-Dz2O8z0nY1FmfCBe1hAON0DiSvSI1DOsPdp8m7-azrtB723yhj-d7cQdTPsTS5gK-TuXfB5UCs-f3ERZt-wylx3_ZUOQF8RT4gs33SFR0s/s1209/20230711_111438.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdprgig5o_XQnHnf2uF8GOsqeKfiNaPY6vRi0QLBSOoiep84ZmtzIw-02mKMcrD4XJQrDC8EkKkZN6wTD-Dz2O8z0nY1FmfCBe1hAON0DiSvSI1DOsPdp8m7-azrtB723yhj-d7cQdTPsTS5gK-TuXfB5UCs-f3ERZt-wylx3_ZUOQF8RT4gs33SFR0s/s320/20230711_111438.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaQvznmwGi8ZQ7OVICL667Yhob2kFjH1qYwub53OnmdNcjkX6uHLvyRGafTgxmymjL-4I9jCd91_nVQs-UpOov3LOqLWgseMV0LL-5hXnLVnbVk0YgFwkmyXN2nKyPy-LtMqh8fo9uYEp_r21httTbG_DrAoR9UkTBMhGtka0o2AS3kISMI3Hio-S_YKQ/s320/20230711_111851.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQgTNcl1mnfbRUEDpQHdZjofQZWK4UgF7kqbEP47KUVV470h1TX-9XAe4KD9pR43piOTsd_bvh7nd8346o-nq--U4Jym9KpILjmcDJA5t0Gw8iAxqZ1Jo9D4u0ICrODzyAIdYEsTCBiVNg-2m1s_yvy0O3KFD1R5Uw--5bwUf0y-5Z0xbADs2rxzY73o/s1209/20230711_112527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQgTNcl1mnfbRUEDpQHdZjofQZWK4UgF7kqbEP47KUVV470h1TX-9XAe4KD9pR43piOTsd_bvh7nd8346o-nq--U4Jym9KpILjmcDJA5t0Gw8iAxqZ1Jo9D4u0ICrODzyAIdYEsTCBiVNg-2m1s_yvy0O3KFD1R5Uw--5bwUf0y-5Z0xbADs2rxzY73o/s320/20230711_112527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnAsJWFR5eEUIC_KJyX1VXsGL79qJFkpd-dfraINAF6A-EGwnrtLT5MR4i0Hc5BVlNP1BUyq6NPuwkdC3W-r7H1sXBXYHNnpl6do0oZu9vNB2ynLJAxx-7HaBUvxPfD-dMlSFSIgkgd3ClHUFqxmLoMpyX8kjGFcSEfBPbYusQhMP7_-Q1h4mDNhl7E24/s1094/20230711_113202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1094" data-original-width="505" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnAsJWFR5eEUIC_KJyX1VXsGL79qJFkpd-dfraINAF6A-EGwnrtLT5MR4i0Hc5BVlNP1BUyq6NPuwkdC3W-r7H1sXBXYHNnpl6do0oZu9vNB2ynLJAxx-7HaBUvxPfD-dMlSFSIgkgd3ClHUFqxmLoMpyX8kjGFcSEfBPbYusQhMP7_-Q1h4mDNhl7E24/s320/20230711_113202.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQHHKfwvIFWwVMhxFudLMpCNjnOfxJcF04xVDeUYgQ9Y1jK16aAgHvzKuu5kN07LlONQzmNyXtGk5IJRVmredVAouaU4wRHkGAAfmrf9S35HUsWpQ8Arw1LuSZBglENM6PT6Q-cCZJ6K8hWt-2UACoYSiTdMHMOh7UOVkJPWg2wgThM8rRDmFEdZOajKY/s1209/20230711_114305.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQHHKfwvIFWwVMhxFudLMpCNjnOfxJcF04xVDeUYgQ9Y1jK16aAgHvzKuu5kN07LlONQzmNyXtGk5IJRVmredVAouaU4wRHkGAAfmrf9S35HUsWpQ8Arw1LuSZBglENM6PT6Q-cCZJ6K8hWt-2UACoYSiTdMHMOh7UOVkJPWg2wgThM8rRDmFEdZOajKY/s320/20230711_114305.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">coppia di scimmie urlatrici con cucciolo. Per i maya queste scimmie erano associate alla divinità protettrice delle arti (musica) e dei mestieri, soprattutto scriba e scultore</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQJf9u_28aTXbsawft-oQxaPc1U_q1d1HTDL1UDAmaPSCHKBKTTNJRtYCUizzLZT9AbfL2lIIA-rzeV1zngs0BkNj99kgRc5oVpBSNMKofzYkN_OMQTTW2GoNegmU2R4mMWzKJPPRZjl7FxCgUn8DhducCr-YBtUOtb4IROuG3Oo2lq5Ga5TEEIe4mExs/s1209/20230711_114329.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQJf9u_28aTXbsawft-oQxaPc1U_q1d1HTDL1UDAmaPSCHKBKTTNJRtYCUizzLZT9AbfL2lIIA-rzeV1zngs0BkNj99kgRc5oVpBSNMKofzYkN_OMQTTW2GoNegmU2R4mMWzKJPPRZjl7FxCgUn8DhducCr-YBtUOtb4IROuG3Oo2lq5Ga5TEEIe4mExs/s320/20230711_114329.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdbRGwusDi-yHrlhbwkVV7liXJTF8eEkvRfjl1bV6Wq4vIYKV26kksm_qonTMjXc9m0P1qaziANjPjJmwYGgtNhkpDyj0dUSmz7z6TthkXOh6dKOT7zzFWsIA_oK_To4jlN4WiBAnIywfviYlLHumC3zvW7SwDGtFswpyPG1osxL4rkWxS_DFM6SCGx7U/s1209/20230711_120828.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdbRGwusDi-yHrlhbwkVV7liXJTF8eEkvRfjl1bV6Wq4vIYKV26kksm_qonTMjXc9m0P1qaziANjPjJmwYGgtNhkpDyj0dUSmz7z6TthkXOh6dKOT7zzFWsIA_oK_To4jlN4WiBAnIywfviYlLHumC3zvW7SwDGtFswpyPG1osxL4rkWxS_DFM6SCGx7U/s320/20230711_120828.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgcd_XAn87f_BSznwNWS3Wbyvv3vmD6cqST_OfKickJ0Akq0Pu6QYkDGZyu28cvWgjJo5FNvpVbJwD9Cku3oAGr5Cg1dLxqYwbd3Tmy17f5GnBuRenRaL0B3GgTL7ew52IJMed4BGQzvbljLVs3zCHaLGswpan6tqyZ3P3bvu4VYSiHhm5cl4y--kxxQI/s1209/20230711_120920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgcd_XAn87f_BSznwNWS3Wbyvv3vmD6cqST_OfKickJ0Akq0Pu6QYkDGZyu28cvWgjJo5FNvpVbJwD9Cku3oAGr5Cg1dLxqYwbd3Tmy17f5GnBuRenRaL0B3GgTL7ew52IJMed4BGQzvbljLVs3zCHaLGswpan6tqyZ3P3bvu4VYSiHhm5cl4y--kxxQI/s320/20230711_120920.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Non so se si è capito, ma questo sito mi è piaciuto da impazzire. Da non uscirne più! Ci sono due cose su tre tra quelle che più mi affascinano in viaggio: storia/cultura e natura. La terza è il lato antropologico/sociale, ma quello lo vediamo tutti i giorni, viaggiando in bici a stretto contatto con la gente del posto. E però si deve tornare, Ciano di aspetta. Facciamo una corsa per arrivare in tempo all'appuntamento, e questo sforzo, unito alle scalate delle piramidi e al gran camminare della mattinata, mi dà il colpo di grazia. Nel viaggio di ritorno, nonostante la guida pazza e la musica a palla, fatico a tenere gli occhi aperti.</div>Quando rientriamo, prima di tornare nella casetta, compriamo da bere e qualche schifezzina per pranzo, mentre i cantieri del treno maya brulicano di operai. Io opto per uno stecchino al tamarindo con peperoncino, che è il chupachups local che si compra da vasi aperti, pescando nel mucchio. Uno costa 5 pesos, 0.25 euro. Ben spesi! Poi viene il momento del meritato relax, anche perchè manca ancora la corrente elettrica in tutto il paese, e di conseguenza manca la connessione ad internet, e non posso che tornare al cartaceo per organizzare le prossime tappe. Ovviamente sull'amaca, che mi rende molliccia e incapace di reazione alcuna, come quando si prendono i gatti per la collizza.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3Fl6mdxyLCQQ2D98L6nIVyKuAZK_m7tVAaNIeef6tMHBgsB2lyUo7U-kisvnF2jvlhOUuNbG1kiO_KEYaYLxrlwL4I5qQTMDnoW2vj-5ZTU4rR77HrNjCBI0NJJwIOHbu7TwopZgMrleLBy6HV2AlEfnK6zFcip-TVILu99e-npfagNLUJg7CaJASA0/s1209/20230711_135139.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3Fl6mdxyLCQQ2D98L6nIVyKuAZK_m7tVAaNIeef6tMHBgsB2lyUo7U-kisvnF2jvlhOUuNbG1kiO_KEYaYLxrlwL4I5qQTMDnoW2vj-5ZTU4rR77HrNjCBI0NJJwIOHbu7TwopZgMrleLBy6HV2AlEfnK6zFcip-TVILu99e-npfagNLUJg7CaJASA0/s320/20230711_135139.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzPvTYfcJUBR9OJW4Tq6jUOe4l8WswmOkraPHykAcyiXWUgjj-NGpFV9oG9UEflPOoaAtQaG3mlp_SowbZw9dwoRZqORUDx3SgdfrhkbwU80j9JlEOJNR4q8XaiwYyL-xwYJUluCVC74aRnLO6PToyfU4nej_uU1nm3qvfO9ZZEQOjrA7LZr5QppkB1A/s1209/20230711_135226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzPvTYfcJUBR9OJW4Tq6jUOe4l8WswmOkraPHykAcyiXWUgjj-NGpFV9oG9UEflPOoaAtQaG3mlp_SowbZw9dwoRZqORUDx3SgdfrhkbwU80j9JlEOJNR4q8XaiwYyL-xwYJUluCVC74aRnLO6PToyfU4nej_uU1nm3qvfO9ZZEQOjrA7LZr5QppkB1A/s320/20230711_135226.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYWsokBng3eWjfL4Z8_Kt_l0ryoyR-d-vLh9dSExPgcq1bdULYBeVpwhvdUSCkSfpNBAmJEeZ2Zf8iMxcwZ3R6aeCimBHXil9gBsBIso_VG0_HAspKokhMWshOoFL97Cu63nAtwv7ZmPT_HILUJeoJykO6rU8qiFepY3xs1XOEFZ1uw2J0REVYUZwTisg/s1209/20230711_143434.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYWsokBng3eWjfL4Z8_Kt_l0ryoyR-d-vLh9dSExPgcq1bdULYBeVpwhvdUSCkSfpNBAmJEeZ2Zf8iMxcwZ3R6aeCimBHXil9gBsBIso_VG0_HAspKokhMWshOoFL97Cu63nAtwv7ZmPT_HILUJeoJykO6rU8qiFepY3xs1XOEFZ1uw2J0REVYUZwTisg/s320/20230711_143434.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passato l'abbiocco, quando l'aria rinfresca un pochino, facciamo un po' di manutenzione alle bici, ritiriamo i panni lavati e siamo pronti per una passeggiata in paese e poi la cena. Stasera Julio propone bistec a la mexicana, che è carne sminuzzata e cucinata con salsa di pomodoro e peperoni, con riso, e salbutes, che sono tortillas fritte con sfilaccetti di pollo piccante e verdure. Inutile dire che è tutto buonissimo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2DczaJezpCK7wq1h6D3TZYs_HEvYEr56O6jSo2Ngo29F_JLjgUDwQe6wb2sEyZ0j4IODRIhOO77G0nTmuRC-YYEhRNNGJ1hSbM9D8EMPiTKKAUj3NCLTAmYmP2i2Bj5s6Bph4tQFjAnPgHWQLlR-mnfA9_v5uQMvKvuKTB_B1z3ZjiMhZlt9SKPQmOz0/s1209/20230711_170752.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2DczaJezpCK7wq1h6D3TZYs_HEvYEr56O6jSo2Ngo29F_JLjgUDwQe6wb2sEyZ0j4IODRIhOO77G0nTmuRC-YYEhRNNGJ1hSbM9D8EMPiTKKAUj3NCLTAmYmP2i2Bj5s6Bph4tQFjAnPgHWQLlR-mnfA9_v5uQMvKvuKTB_B1z3ZjiMhZlt9SKPQmOz0/s320/20230711_170752.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiApLBpeFhRpS_meohEwFhw3asUDWrFSByskV4rIJwkWF5fb4enX8UEtQ9sg-8Ai8fatllOQJuY9gAUQmgXHgjzOcrMnlzQ3Z1HAin6DJNxcpSvux2SVtbGmvTNImyO2bFrL_xY2o-cXQii0BdMG_oLuGtePuPXn267i9NOvHkBkrqIkxMRqI-3q9ZtRHQ/s1209/20230711_195754.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiApLBpeFhRpS_meohEwFhw3asUDWrFSByskV4rIJwkWF5fb4enX8UEtQ9sg-8Ai8fatllOQJuY9gAUQmgXHgjzOcrMnlzQ3Z1HAin6DJNxcpSvux2SVtbGmvTNImyO2bFrL_xY2o-cXQii0BdMG_oLuGtePuPXn267i9NOvHkBkrqIkxMRqI-3q9ZtRHQ/s320/20230711_195754.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhheseGc3ZRZqzcQxJie9_PqZKBZY8xLPtqxkCQwGKRFfXagSyhdaSafIzU8mJWu0j4Re5mg19mu2Nldgxn9cl4Brw7pf77ZGwCJNuuTYTHgTYPDLDojpvu_abhIrzLwKX5CyY-TwqEz2VWewbYJjGHhzt1Ku5WpEzXQHFUO48J0Rnd6lO2bNQ1bbYgUGc/s1209/20230711_195952.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhheseGc3ZRZqzcQxJie9_PqZKBZY8xLPtqxkCQwGKRFfXagSyhdaSafIzU8mJWu0j4Re5mg19mu2Nldgxn9cl4Brw7pf77ZGwCJNuuTYTHgTYPDLDojpvu_abhIrzLwKX5CyY-TwqEz2VWewbYJjGHhzt1Ku5WpEzXQHFUO48J0Rnd6lO2bNQ1bbYgUGc/s320/20230711_195952.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Domani si riparte in bici, e faremo tappa a Escarcega, a 100km da qui; è una città di medie dimensioni con tante strutture, nulla di che da vedere ma comoda perchè di strada e una distanza perfetta per una giornata in sella. Poi, da lì, in 3 giorni saremo a Palenque, in Chiapas, dopo aver attraversato anche un pezzettino di Tabasco. La penisola dello Yucatan è ormai quasi alle spalle, ora si entra nel cuore del paese, nel vivo del viaggio.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>12/7</div><div>La Selva - Escarcega</div><div>97km</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oggi tappone di trasferimento, che poteva rivelarsi drammaticamente pesante, e invece scivola via veloce grazie al favore, finalmente, delle divinità del vento. Grazie Chac, che ci hai anche risparmiato il quotidiano diluvio, e grazie Huracan. Vi offriremo in dono qualche bestemmia in meno. Ops!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci alziamo con calma e con calma facciamo colazione, che con calma viene preparata dalla moglie di Julio, che fa tutto ancora più con calma rispetto a lui. La cerimonia delle huevos al gusto finisce per durare una bella oretta, e intanto chiacchieriamo con due ragazzi francesi in camper che stanno per andare a Calakmul ed hanno fatto più o meno il nostro stesso itinerario (ma non affronteranno il Chiapas, temendone i noti pericoli).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo aver chiuso la cabana, riempito le borracce e riconsegnato le chiavi, partiamo. Oggi la strada è facile: si deve rimanere sempre sulla statale che collega Chetumal a Escarcega, che è una linea drittissima, tirata con il righello proprio, sull'asse est-ovest. Ci accorgiamo subito di avere il vento a favore perchè la velocità media è alta quanto mai s'è visto in questi giorni, e sulle salite pare ci sia una mano pietosa che spinge un poco sulla schiena. Questo nonostante i miei quadricipiti siano contratti allo spasmo causa scalini delle piramidi di ieri. Un dolore lancinante! Il fondo, poi, è ottimo e si rotola benone, senza attriti con l'asfalto e con l'anima. Tutto fila liscio per i primi kilometri, poi Gigi lamenta di sbandare e infatti ha forato la ruota anteriore. Purtroppo siamo in un punto non ottimale per cambiare camera d'aria: in salita, in curva, in un punto dove passano camioni enormi. La prima che montiamo è difettosa e la valvola si stappa, quindi dobbiamo cambiare di nuovo, ma ormai siamo come i meccanici di Formula 1: in pochi secondi il lavoro è fatto. Si riparte, sotto allo sguardo curioso e divertito degli operai dell'infinito cantiere del treno maya, che oggi ci accompagna pe tutti e 100 i kilometri. Ieri con Julio ne parlavamo... Gli abbiamo chiesto cosa ne pensasse. Ci ha detto che per ora son contenti perchè i lavori han portato impiego per tanti (e vedrai! Gli sbandieratori fungono da conetti catarifrangenti umani e son centinaia!). Poi si spera arrivi anche il turismo... Anche perchè con il Covid è stato un disastro, han persino chiuso il museo storico e naturalistico che c'era a Calkmul, licenziando in tronco tutti gli addetti...</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Chissà. fatto è che i lavori fervono. E insieme a operai, camion, ruspe, ci sono interi convogli militari, stracarichi di soldati. Ho letto che il governo ha ben pensato di dispiegare anche le forze armate, spesso milizie mercenarie, per evitare interferenze, proteste, vaghi tentativi di rallentare i lavori. Ne vediamo, eccome se ne vediamo. E passano su camion o jeep con mitragliatori montati sul retro dal calibro sufficiente per far saltare un treno. Anzi, chi il treno non lo vuole.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuQ2KlxmipP6sQFA_6XoE-QMXxoBmyZnS0assxUO4HzsCuj5bhBGS6XQhqD-QAMXflI-NmBG6zhgc26nB7-jHGXWvuTZrZVf47ekttYBE1OB9_Ka4Gtet9PNQtJN6C6ZpJ3bUNBBI2djLc18RMom6cYZGSXgQewccJv71qRtuhUPCHNWVLh8i5UsVolM/s1209/20230712_100712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjuQ2KlxmipP6sQFA_6XoE-QMXxoBmyZnS0assxUO4HzsCuj5bhBGS6XQhqD-QAMXflI-NmBG6zhgc26nB7-jHGXWvuTZrZVf47ekttYBE1OB9_Ka4Gtet9PNQtJN6C6ZpJ3bUNBBI2djLc18RMom6cYZGSXgQewccJv71qRtuhUPCHNWVLh8i5UsVolM/s320/20230712_100712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3IEXteqYQOWhzqBKTdKo72H28WW8YpnwmK9F55eCdGQCVrLn2YnGE-i6WJZdDeIMobZ1GmioPfpPHnNtRFqG6bqUKR5dLuJMDLdA5sWT8ypLweI7eMN9jQYU7Y86t03UXfPkUJ1GGXbwfpxKc7yybg0F9nYh6rB1PJXJHRFpsL6YoWZPlC1PLKLTs5UU/s1209/20230712_111542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3IEXteqYQOWhzqBKTdKo72H28WW8YpnwmK9F55eCdGQCVrLn2YnGE-i6WJZdDeIMobZ1GmioPfpPHnNtRFqG6bqUKR5dLuJMDLdA5sWT8ypLweI7eMN9jQYU7Y86t03UXfPkUJ1GGXbwfpxKc7yybg0F9nYh6rB1PJXJHRFpsL6YoWZPlC1PLKLTs5UU/s320/20230712_111542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvJih_fzb1w_nQkrw2c2hbFLCOSsgeJIn9FZ5yJmIz7shOrntUBeCW-dx4WO2IS1rx62CCjpCovPwfJgv5VmRuaxO1OCqBhuBKNjCSNVh_Dk5J4oFqPyglFR1F50mYg7wRcY1RJS_qnLNVH6FTwRBEebMeGGe9qm0Rsvy88Woa6xPdlq3nW3QW0BKeC8/s1209/20230712_112401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKvJih_fzb1w_nQkrw2c2hbFLCOSsgeJIn9FZ5yJmIz7shOrntUBeCW-dx4WO2IS1rx62CCjpCovPwfJgv5VmRuaxO1OCqBhuBKNjCSNVh_Dk5J4oFqPyglFR1F50mYg7wRcY1RJS_qnLNVH6FTwRBEebMeGGe9qm0Rsvy88Woa6xPdlq3nW3QW0BKeC8/s320/20230712_112401.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La strada corre dritta e noi con lei. Passiamo da alcuni pueblos palesemente basati sul turismo di passaggio: hanno quattro case, tre ristorantini chiamati tutti el viajero e simili, due baracchini di refrescos e patatine e, se va bene, una telesecundaria, le scuole via tv e ormai internet che, dal 1968, servono a facilitare l'accesso all'istruzione superiore e ridurre l'analfabetismo nelle aree più remote del paese.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">All'altezza della Lagna noh, uno specchio d'acqua dolce che interrompe il mar di verde, facciamo una sosta al benzinaio per gonfiar bene la gomma di Gigi. Quando ripartiamo ci rendiamo conto di quanto caldo faccia, ed è solo mezzogiorno! Il termometro arriva a segnare 47 gradi, e si sentono tutti, anche perchè il tasso di umidità è altissimo. Sulle brevi salitelle, quando il vento si placa e l'aria stagna, c'è veramente da morire. Per fortuna alcuni tratti di strada restano all'ombra, cosa di solito ben rara.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2FdhqZI249oy3e5QFsfYqoLzoPzWkn8xa_WpThP0IppJm2ck6ANJUo0ONvHB_TUhmfQg4wOITxlsqBxLw2_DLdDLmQhHZQPI5rDnHT3yI6Ll79rdQOR7G_9EzuSzkEWqvXDVUYevUXyyZTJoWk08gnC60SYZrgPoH9Eebb3dxN5IJOf6w8pm4i_9mSTo/s1209/20230712_122507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2FdhqZI249oy3e5QFsfYqoLzoPzWkn8xa_WpThP0IppJm2ck6ANJUo0ONvHB_TUhmfQg4wOITxlsqBxLw2_DLdDLmQhHZQPI5rDnHT3yI6Ll79rdQOR7G_9EzuSzkEWqvXDVUYevUXyyZTJoWk08gnC60SYZrgPoH9Eebb3dxN5IJOf6w8pm4i_9mSTo/s320/20230712_122507.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihb07qoyJUO1jeVDB7TI4bOG1Klx2cuciwR2_yGfZkeRSnYH_hUGF4jdwjTqgFJhDu0mIGGQ1LayIBVcfrBF-hxkwLwysRsgwj3O1oPuTALgJRzKH_oZbuATJBKSugYOnvdmyWx-mJOku7-JCCUNPPr-pz21qP8YZVXZg_3IiASDVU9HPPImnPVM_hGik/s1209/20230712_125737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihb07qoyJUO1jeVDB7TI4bOG1Klx2cuciwR2_yGfZkeRSnYH_hUGF4jdwjTqgFJhDu0mIGGQ1LayIBVcfrBF-hxkwLwysRsgwj3O1oPuTALgJRzKH_oZbuATJBKSugYOnvdmyWx-mJOku7-JCCUNPPr-pz21qP8YZVXZg_3IiASDVU9HPPImnPVM_hGik/s320/20230712_125737.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq9LulavY0cmyhjQ8L3WXYWW0Yui4YXkjghdt_UTCOcuN4zaKTN1wNErLhFyRpNAelJYuem_LUSknbwJhne9q-mL_XLzCPpp-Qi8_Za63zMmaF9YrDlpmYRJgwRbnQe15hME_VlcbHo0e8X_fu88F2gesxMrYwDFFl4Ds7M4-gpEhRNf0MJedojoTUuxQ/s1209/20230712_130023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq9LulavY0cmyhjQ8L3WXYWW0Yui4YXkjghdt_UTCOcuN4zaKTN1wNErLhFyRpNAelJYuem_LUSknbwJhne9q-mL_XLzCPpp-Qi8_Za63zMmaF9YrDlpmYRJgwRbnQe15hME_VlcbHo0e8X_fu88F2gesxMrYwDFFl4Ds7M4-gpEhRNf0MJedojoTUuxQ/s320/20230712_130023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I paesini, che qui intorno vendono anche pescado de agua dulce (che viene dalla Laguna Noh, bella putridina e paludosa), sono minuscoli e visibili più che altro per le fermate die bus e i dossi, altissimi e pericolosissimi, che costringono le auto a quasi fermarsi. I nomi son tutti un programma: si va da Centenario a La libertad, da Pablo Gacia e El lechugal, fino a Matamoros, dove la specialità sono le costine grigliate ed è pieno di baracchini fumanti che le preparano a bordo strada, circondati da cani randagi affamati tutti costole e bava. Noi facciamo una sosta acqua e calura presso una taqueria dove la signora anziana che gestisce ci tiene sott'occhio, e non si fida, e ci fissa dal bancone e ci fa brutto finchè non capisce che siamo troppo cotti per muoverci, figuriamoci per rubare. Comunque anche questi pueblos sono funestati dai blackout procurati dai cantieri del treno maya. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvUrSU1fjq8TG3JMEo4Bgbx8scJOdCZk9E5X5HvDPEBC3K10DGgxTPPjVoqTDofItfxT4j8em9k35TjbFdaah4BRLRvk7wsTOCd6dAlQm-DAroijQO-OT2ltITWS-KhuTP3ZM8mUNv6QXujH2T8scGqboubxNsEYY50-1bAZPb5Z9O0Fxz8C5uTSe89W8/s1209/20230712_130034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvUrSU1fjq8TG3JMEo4Bgbx8scJOdCZk9E5X5HvDPEBC3K10DGgxTPPjVoqTDofItfxT4j8em9k35TjbFdaah4BRLRvk7wsTOCd6dAlQm-DAroijQO-OT2ltITWS-KhuTP3ZM8mUNv6QXujH2T8scGqboubxNsEYY50-1bAZPb5Z9O0Fxz8C5uTSe89W8/s320/20230712_130034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitctxz8Lo1081-0RDUSOqilj7iXOYEMQE-TshXY-HKHKXMOfTmA2fDJ_voqjJJrdqlFqnly2oy_SY6yRfcnaN-iKym9FojCaKtcJG-1gNUSY66xL9LW4RyHk3wGsKu7u_0p0MW1qeczohXgdlbjBA6o5UvY2A20VemJXpwERxDL2QKWItOkK67qnGdtD4/s1209/20230712_140010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitctxz8Lo1081-0RDUSOqilj7iXOYEMQE-TshXY-HKHKXMOfTmA2fDJ_voqjJJrdqlFqnly2oy_SY6yRfcnaN-iKym9FojCaKtcJG-1gNUSY66xL9LW4RyHk3wGsKu7u_0p0MW1qeczohXgdlbjBA6o5UvY2A20VemJXpwERxDL2QKWItOkK67qnGdtD4/s320/20230712_140010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWQf5pgSVgof_3uCp2lYxMm4Lx_Ib7wAimUtQq8AJc3A-Nmdw7rtpcw9-2RQt_ctBUKkrNeYyXZ5SHUCW_3GlszUY7GFCNTCAy97ozvwXFkmvRrqxuEyjrXf73mvnQEO8sdZa7bOaKWHP7y_tUReNj0o8T-NZRhLJgVGAMIhOLPzhlPtVTrWMWQGokyU/s1209/20230712_140018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbWQf5pgSVgof_3uCp2lYxMm4Lx_Ib7wAimUtQq8AJc3A-Nmdw7rtpcw9-2RQt_ctBUKkrNeYyXZ5SHUCW_3GlszUY7GFCNTCAy97ozvwXFkmvRrqxuEyjrXf73mvnQEO8sdZa7bOaKWHP7y_tUReNj0o8T-NZRhLJgVGAMIhOLPzhlPtVTrWMWQGokyU/s320/20230712_140018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMz3a18qRocBfZavUBDHIBPeCJDEaETRx05sXIv4ZhbVIno_VdkGOhWcB9GeIJEHzSQebM2OW-KBcPLTAO4yDchDbcL04cb326FjAXfeGlX5zJkmQymZT_KwFEv-mRMieQS2LSbRvIDAjkIbup-p2Q0ESzl3ZlAMfGDE9G21yj32FWohME-hN-KCB3cAY/s1209/20230712_140028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMz3a18qRocBfZavUBDHIBPeCJDEaETRx05sXIv4ZhbVIno_VdkGOhWcB9GeIJEHzSQebM2OW-KBcPLTAO4yDchDbcL04cb326FjAXfeGlX5zJkmQymZT_KwFEv-mRMieQS2LSbRvIDAjkIbup-p2Q0ESzl3ZlAMfGDE9G21yj32FWohME-hN-KCB3cAY/s320/20230712_140028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPz03A84yJHVYhkhWhioIutZ4oh76YGV_1VHCnZ6s3Bgz7tGEdoY55LAAFBaTy53l085sQNtE9aYZjVZKlmwTXlc5RuFKCpTxG9xaLxuJdZtXzRwk15LS0SDczurFBbPrNM8-SrRPYJUSkS5P-tZtl_i53GbF47GIieMkGR_R1UPXMLxzs9mOjEU76UJU/s1209/20230712_141936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPz03A84yJHVYhkhWhioIutZ4oh76YGV_1VHCnZ6s3Bgz7tGEdoY55LAAFBaTy53l085sQNtE9aYZjVZKlmwTXlc5RuFKCpTxG9xaLxuJdZtXzRwk15LS0SDczurFBbPrNM8-SrRPYJUSkS5P-tZtl_i53GbF47GIieMkGR_R1UPXMLxzs9mOjEU76UJU/s320/20230712_141936.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWNFGQ0i7uoOf0J6mQ4uhBrol0QwAhlbk0lTTbheJ6rLn6D_ruaKswJ36PB3Y_En-ANny4fBVPKHktXr9O7BurVzb5gcmd_WK-eM84dlnTD_oPKIhiItSvpwN48K288zW5x_5mssUIKLNieqecsFf0DWc5ZgTe069gLW_FcKmZr2Mjk3UuGtaxzNrlVM/s1209/20230712_141946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWNFGQ0i7uoOf0J6mQ4uhBrol0QwAhlbk0lTTbheJ6rLn6D_ruaKswJ36PB3Y_En-ANny4fBVPKHktXr9O7BurVzb5gcmd_WK-eM84dlnTD_oPKIhiItSvpwN48K288zW5x_5mssUIKLNieqecsFf0DWc5ZgTe069gLW_FcKmZr2Mjk3UuGtaxzNrlVM/s320/20230712_141946.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Bolliti da caldo, attraversiamo zone sempre meno di giungla e sempre più di ranch, stalle e pascoli. Ci sono mucche e cavalli ovunque, tutti ossuti, tutti stremati dalla calura. Passano anche tantissimi rimorchi carichi di bestie. Mi accorgo che in queste ore la gente davvero pisola e fa la siesta. E quando la siesta arriva, non si discute: ci si corica dove si è, nel punto esatto in cui ci si trova: in terra, nel proprio negozio o ristorante, a bordo strada, sui marciapiedi, sui mucchi di sabbia del cantiere.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Alla fine è ancora presto quando raggiungiamo Escarcega. Non ho prenotato alberghi perchè su Booking ci sono solo quelli di gran lusso e fuori budget, mentre in paese ce ne sono decine, molto più economici. Andremo direttamente a chiedere di porta in porta. In realtà ci va bene al primo colpo. Hotel yucateco, gestito da un messicano che ha vissuto per tanti anni a Houston, Texas, e ne ha assunto la stazza e l'accento. La struttura è stata aperta negli anni '50 da suo papà, e, quando il vecchio è mancato, lui è tornato a gestire l'attività insieme al fratello. Quindi qualcuno fa anche il viaggio inverso! E' interessante questa storia, se non altro insolita. Chiacchieriamo un po' in inglese e mi rendo conto di far fatica, mi esce un mix spanglish terrificante, perchè da quando siamo partiti cerco con tutte le forze di evitare l'inglese, anche se lo conosco meglio dello spagnolo. Mi sento Salvatore de Il nome della rosa. <i>"Penitenziagite! Watch out for the draco who cometh in futurum to gnaw on your anima! La morte est supra nobis! You contemplata me apocalypsum, eh? La bas! Nous avons il diabolo! Ugly come Salvatore, eh? My little brother! Penitenziagite!".</i></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In verità ho scelto da Google questo hotel per tre motivi. Li elenco in ordine inverso: la vicinanza al centro, il prezzo economico, il gusto opinabile con il quale è decorato. In nulla vengo delusa, compreso il pappagallino che sta libero, appollaiato su un trespolo alla reception e fischia e bercia senza sosta.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQPPuF3S4F_pTZLb1L6-nan962k_0qE89wd8l7NRPnlRBywCKxkQGCb14EZR9fqwMryEFHiU5Mo2uQU0P752lhszorZ0aXQrG6TG_VPSTJXAWIwt2qq0Ac_pF7H8CbM71DmF6Y6yBep6ADckZ-J7VBHeWlpyp6OMCo3VVqNi3pRiTz95NKM_ryT4eL2Y/s1209/20230712_180903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQPPuF3S4F_pTZLb1L6-nan962k_0qE89wd8l7NRPnlRBywCKxkQGCb14EZR9fqwMryEFHiU5Mo2uQU0P752lhszorZ0aXQrG6TG_VPSTJXAWIwt2qq0Ac_pF7H8CbM71DmF6Y6yBep6ADckZ-J7VBHeWlpyp6OMCo3VVqNi3pRiTz95NKM_ryT4eL2Y/s320/20230712_180903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7HUY1M-oxIBizVTJjlIDXU2T7wCc-EzmUlxaWuoSnuL-_BuXnZLDVwPWKaIx17PfX7KYKdrDKQLCwD62lyDN_lV7J69ejOFXmAky5VBl0HWBex5tc4KNITrJcpJ-_gY7EGRExTP_I8KUmeeylDf_MPvBQ1onFtb-jDMC6AoI_nWzVsDMzb3wqC8WlK8/s1209/20230712_180920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7HUY1M-oxIBizVTJjlIDXU2T7wCc-EzmUlxaWuoSnuL-_BuXnZLDVwPWKaIx17PfX7KYKdrDKQLCwD62lyDN_lV7J69ejOFXmAky5VBl0HWBex5tc4KNITrJcpJ-_gY7EGRExTP_I8KUmeeylDf_MPvBQ1onFtb-jDMC6AoI_nWzVsDMzb3wqC8WlK8/s320/20230712_180920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ovviamente non manco di visitare il terrazzo, dove siamo stati invitati a salire per goderci il tramonto sulle sdraio, magari in compagnia di una birra. Qualsiasi cosa stiate immaginando, avete sbagliato. Ecco come si presenta il terrazzo, e la vista dal medesimo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSu5PvKXJOM321M3rRNIKvaZMabhvBPXCpjsOD3IkayAa2vDV7sBgH9V9guS3P6ugara78HP5Ap31o6qTUNn3jRuHoCaYi4cGhOR-1QPxvQgv9OlQKoDFTjiUCM-kb5R32er4GXEFAehikOlNNDn24UL4KFgSM61LMCIkK-PYu3MnFz7XQ3gLGVM9sPIs/s1209/20230712_181029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSu5PvKXJOM321M3rRNIKvaZMabhvBPXCpjsOD3IkayAa2vDV7sBgH9V9guS3P6ugara78HP5Ap31o6qTUNn3jRuHoCaYi4cGhOR-1QPxvQgv9OlQKoDFTjiUCM-kb5R32er4GXEFAehikOlNNDn24UL4KFgSM61LMCIkK-PYu3MnFz7XQ3gLGVM9sPIs/s320/20230712_181029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPlYV8nlNIYRDXNyhGGhgHru6bEH4OosMSvdP-xzmEMSwi_ivS4tgzAlXFSqoNbhNL_6cCSq0dNMu18P9A7vvrzDdK-bhh7PRjP1aAmuAkQqo5bwhlWfxIgQvZh9veBhudY_wh3tk3N0Vq3U6W7Bk_ESUZ3dcD16kguyV-BY0I8c212aU3ut0hWWc7qD4/s1209/20230712_181109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZTm5Dh3nGlVdUvtIYu1WzMp8i0qWqXJ5h9Ee6JT4jYTkL0ce5V275k7oiDGL5l8R1O67D9KdYE-H6FwnZv_SUNjqWynmB9Ui5xIkO1DDA23zmILvsLOLJEnDATgXPyZbVfbV0ulc2Tgm7RiNHKSaOXbB9rvHcGLUX6RJXhRuOnoFlgijn8PyF-US5IE/s320/20230712_181210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6NMxBsCQxq3r1ToEUd0QMXTR6qyksmlFdDjoUajjeAgsCeIm2rCD5NQiXzuuBWvNgaAiUHfW-WPLVqm_uc-922WKkeb_oq57HK7NukhTBu6mLv6OsKeV0TQuK8zFg0rTeZ9DGG0384xMSDhGphHuMJQLKr1YJC7PhoKda8D42RvMJEVTvjJ3LEV3CSo/s1209/20230712_181215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6NMxBsCQxq3r1ToEUd0QMXTR6qyksmlFdDjoUajjeAgsCeIm2rCD5NQiXzuuBWvNgaAiUHfW-WPLVqm_uc-922WKkeb_oq57HK7NukhTBu6mLv6OsKeV0TQuK8zFg0rTeZ9DGG0384xMSDhGphHuMJQLKr1YJC7PhoKda8D42RvMJEVTvjJ3LEV3CSo/s320/20230712_181215.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5e2n4ayi5L7jk11mDNmra6AtPzcZGsjkue0qAqfNH2loGW06UNB5Bu7Gu8b0LU_BKrOH5PZWwluyNTp0zEMgQIojoUSR4B8QtAUNW_Lfd12G38P0pxVQ-sptUw4_cDTZSq509t1AUk8JcaJ8PW1zyduWuOf74chKYGunDMqFj7r6LZXWYEwTJqTy7M4k/s1209/20230712_181231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5e2n4ayi5L7jk11mDNmra6AtPzcZGsjkue0qAqfNH2loGW06UNB5Bu7Gu8b0LU_BKrOH5PZWwluyNTp0zEMgQIojoUSR4B8QtAUNW_Lfd12G38P0pxVQ-sptUw4_cDTZSq509t1AUk8JcaJ8PW1zyduWuOf74chKYGunDMqFj7r6LZXWYEwTJqTy7M4k/s320/20230712_181231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDyiX7pY6jw1Mp8b7GPTFk61YgKK7sw97CtFPscO0t9_lTTfqeFWOQZ2A7tJLjOvDpjzqVJEU2XkP3T6VjungrdAaKKD-rE465dNAW-GndZxuiNNngYoMBgGNr0CKqrlKCVlWWIl2uLDVMDHtqoOk-r88AUrADNbqse0OqZMn2CoHc5fZTK9WH9fE4fjE/s1209/20230712_181241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDyiX7pY6jw1Mp8b7GPTFk61YgKK7sw97CtFPscO0t9_lTTfqeFWOQZ2A7tJLjOvDpjzqVJEU2XkP3T6VjungrdAaKKD-rE465dNAW-GndZxuiNNngYoMBgGNr0CKqrlKCVlWWIl2uLDVMDHtqoOk-r88AUrADNbqse0OqZMn2CoHc5fZTK9WH9fE4fjE/s320/20230712_181241.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65T6yaiBR84itMS1JhwxIFXtLKRBi07Goa0WfP4lBMjkmCsi_FNuaV32id_aQMgABUOZ-bvr6p5tD2VZZTC18-SmVyBQUoq7gUVcjy7x-mNi-JBJGZHKPWFc5XRNWEt8D9GnaKBCaFrmby9KpLHEZL9wq1n7ByY4B-KNj_O2PSDdq2F08i48NQW_y5ns/s1209/20230712_181301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65T6yaiBR84itMS1JhwxIFXtLKRBi07Goa0WfP4lBMjkmCsi_FNuaV32id_aQMgABUOZ-bvr6p5tD2VZZTC18-SmVyBQUoq7gUVcjy7x-mNi-JBJGZHKPWFc5XRNWEt8D9GnaKBCaFrmby9KpLHEZL9wq1n7ByY4B-KNj_O2PSDdq2F08i48NQW_y5ns/s320/20230712_181301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiO3zhNe6Fb5XWtlpCVUGo2_K_3eArCRhX_dK3C3CLAHbQTyLqDIiXWwoai0rm60O1CCtIfgF5lH5ROmsmBY-U1OL6GsZLpLRUeaRbiVSko83r3GTjxZRuiuH0E0KhtRmBLEYONtiPs3Zq9E-t5doVaT67L0KRQCt7_LPbSRwttaa3vOA30h3UvUXOA-8/s1209/20230712_181305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiO3zhNe6Fb5XWtlpCVUGo2_K_3eArCRhX_dK3C3CLAHbQTyLqDIiXWwoai0rm60O1CCtIfgF5lH5ROmsmBY-U1OL6GsZLpLRUeaRbiVSko83r3GTjxZRuiuH0E0KhtRmBLEYONtiPs3Zq9E-t5doVaT67L0KRQCt7_LPbSRwttaa3vOA30h3UvUXOA-8/s320/20230712_181305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Questo è un po' il mood di Escarcega. La bruttezza. Anzi, l'estetica del brutto. Me ne faccio convinta passeggiando per le due vie principali lungo cui si sviluppa la città. Passeggio sola, perchè Gigi ha di nuovo la febbre e non si capisce se sia un colpo di calore o un peggioramento del raffreddore con tosse che si è preso facendo il brillante con la pioggia e l'aria condizionata. Mentre cammino per le vie, nonostante ci sia una luce spettacolare, vedo case, negozi, piazzette... Tutti accomunati dalla mancanza di bellezza. E non si tratta della miseria dei pueblos, sia chiaro. Qui le abitazioni sono in muratura, con gli infissi e la corrente elettrica e l'acqua. Ma tutto è polveroso, cadente, sporco. Il traffico, la spazzatura, le lamiere, i cani randagi, i roghi di immondizia... Tutto contribuisce, anzi, infierisce.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyflA1jWK8LaW-tm1BMQ_t3E_emm5d5Sx4ckLfsrsoKAFgj8tEWkrsYu9OWKZaRc2McF8MQsuoc9hwO90Zb28Mp984A2VjBkN8e1s2jNFeDmKfvPuwh5tbZH-ezCfTAGfyVewVMamf37eXXmkm-95ntY_t0SCn2acDXZf9pbGdVdCQHMgYJZrVDSm5i5I/s1209/20230712_181505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyflA1jWK8LaW-tm1BMQ_t3E_emm5d5Sx4ckLfsrsoKAFgj8tEWkrsYu9OWKZaRc2McF8MQsuoc9hwO90Zb28Mp984A2VjBkN8e1s2jNFeDmKfvPuwh5tbZH-ezCfTAGfyVewVMamf37eXXmkm-95ntY_t0SCn2acDXZf9pbGdVdCQHMgYJZrVDSm5i5I/s320/20230712_181505.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdUJMKPRr_OlEl_R3-xtwPE4utDEj7c62pcURSixeONgqmaXg09e78e42WqNrAp_BsZFZH_B7BRY1WzMXxjXJ5Luh5CeS-PFFssJT23t7HjaETvLMaVGaNl-_uesBH25uDIotBnHcrHgqtBym4-6PDno9exl4JvoxzMv4qJTMZDCi7on1irYqCV6KPKZs/s1209/20230712_181517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdUJMKPRr_OlEl_R3-xtwPE4utDEj7c62pcURSixeONgqmaXg09e78e42WqNrAp_BsZFZH_B7BRY1WzMXxjXJ5Luh5CeS-PFFssJT23t7HjaETvLMaVGaNl-_uesBH25uDIotBnHcrHgqtBym4-6PDno9exl4JvoxzMv4qJTMZDCi7on1irYqCV6KPKZs/s320/20230712_181517.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">accanto all'hotel vendono pulcini così</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFV812ZzOS3md2FshgcKMH6NQg7LIQYsI00L54fp7E7dLfQ2Qo8QQJ91AQycnsnN7uKC11mMvJYo-JvufUTfIgOrLHDsLBYul51Jhag-D6QVzKATWhsGSg66PKlWiVSJ850xGtg6_7UQf0aups_Up7ONd_zHTRaddiM16tpU19F2L4p4bvE63q68T6m3s/s1209/20230712_182036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFV812ZzOS3md2FshgcKMH6NQg7LIQYsI00L54fp7E7dLfQ2Qo8QQJ91AQycnsnN7uKC11mMvJYo-JvufUTfIgOrLHDsLBYul51Jhag-D6QVzKATWhsGSg66PKlWiVSJ850xGtg6_7UQf0aups_Up7ONd_zHTRaddiM16tpU19F2L4p4bvE63q68T6m3s/s320/20230712_182036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim75VT0rfdbL0Wz8VO0kwi93U68ZJOzesFFz9k4kf0nwxCFsvKW8DSFWXMh9pfbaWOqetJgJItd2QXe9BIolKTF2nCtEuKLmzYxqSEHIDuisfcE1EcnfP89rookqO7yv-h6FKFDhudI5PnHerVn8QWPfJEfBGAjb3hrWPrxjjcvI2RMyUAo97jLkaVMZE/s1209/20230712_182143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim75VT0rfdbL0Wz8VO0kwi93U68ZJOzesFFz9k4kf0nwxCFsvKW8DSFWXMh9pfbaWOqetJgJItd2QXe9BIolKTF2nCtEuKLmzYxqSEHIDuisfcE1EcnfP89rookqO7yv-h6FKFDhudI5PnHerVn8QWPfJEfBGAjb3hrWPrxjjcvI2RMyUAo97jLkaVMZE/s320/20230712_182143.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrecfsXCDiJgdlINL6HlPP6dgkC2rlalYdSmUYVB7eC4X7WHouDKyUQ25jJKcXzvzBpwyMmbOepKo2Wf8jOgdpzVqSzT7OLlcPD2RdwLlAAV_r5ZN0xeKiXYPEVXuoPbyK-tE7gwcuVhORr1rLGbO2mpPCBp3t8ebTj4iKx4HyQUNqoj7DruLMytxUZg/s1209/20230712_182346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrecfsXCDiJgdlINL6HlPP6dgkC2rlalYdSmUYVB7eC4X7WHouDKyUQ25jJKcXzvzBpwyMmbOepKo2Wf8jOgdpzVqSzT7OLlcPD2RdwLlAAV_r5ZN0xeKiXYPEVXuoPbyK-tE7gwcuVhORr1rLGbO2mpPCBp3t8ebTj4iKx4HyQUNqoj7DruLMytxUZg/s320/20230712_182346.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfUjHe0uxUFBERO-kmy_RdZkePtSNmkmaXKvuAc17fC22PxYMDdFcJb-FOR62bbJe5lV1D2JK9b6hyzIn7gA4tgbHTiJGzJcR2LM8pElbvy6gcvmWmlErGEWs0xU5V4fcPa5YUBTU9-KVEJFoRElZfFj7Bz0e_g6DSz0PnvHe1wKgADSRLEnkAdLgon8/s1209/20230712_182534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfUjHe0uxUFBERO-kmy_RdZkePtSNmkmaXKvuAc17fC22PxYMDdFcJb-FOR62bbJe5lV1D2JK9b6hyzIn7gA4tgbHTiJGzJcR2LM8pElbvy6gcvmWmlErGEWs0xU5V4fcPa5YUBTU9-KVEJFoRElZfFj7Bz0e_g6DSz0PnvHe1wKgADSRLEnkAdLgon8/s320/20230712_182534.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpJ44_4oHMOjbfT8Irg-ALsDNp_I0SD5NMe27MeD8KeKnSkT7ABL0Y7frMPMgwtW2Xoz4AYIZcjEryygcOL1fnLryJISLpM7iTSvo4E9-1_HdgMj1m867DzjqYtGAPzfpe2sndTXPcVqBzB3F3TpW_jR_-mNfsY_t5qfNVPRgDzVZQI6RT4BevEjmHC0/s1209/20230712_182842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpJ44_4oHMOjbfT8Irg-ALsDNp_I0SD5NMe27MeD8KeKnSkT7ABL0Y7frMPMgwtW2Xoz4AYIZcjEryygcOL1fnLryJISLpM7iTSvo4E9-1_HdgMj1m867DzjqYtGAPzfpe2sndTXPcVqBzB3F3TpW_jR_-mNfsY_t5qfNVPRgDzVZQI6RT4BevEjmHC0/s320/20230712_182842.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnpP43e8HjlULbbRfvhHV0aj_h8q1WSlg3XwO2xb4txa5KrDJRapUiKiCiQZmuLMVGw3SsNkx8Mx7cahQxKjs4VME4Bdxmlm-0P-ZhNtRWC8Gb-bWnap1DZZcqt9nBmKUKThWj0dqKbeS61jzIBXNArSS0zuIjmZETKAyiXERuiDCxxNDFwhiUX3GwwOA/s1209/20230712_184500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnpP43e8HjlULbbRfvhHV0aj_h8q1WSlg3XwO2xb4txa5KrDJRapUiKiCiQZmuLMVGw3SsNkx8Mx7cahQxKjs4VME4Bdxmlm-0P-ZhNtRWC8Gb-bWnap1DZZcqt9nBmKUKThWj0dqKbeS61jzIBXNArSS0zuIjmZETKAyiXERuiDCxxNDFwhiUX3GwwOA/s320/20230712_184500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImoOv4MJD8x7hqvYF5Kr31OF2Pt67q6YOBOJkWy1gf5GWZIAeCqvSbS5qWGOQlVtxSe8M1G6LHjYVcwpCGm8k3OJyWWQqPyT1P1InyVOdtdGkKmOaFRjuzrccwNOkzUVX7OtcBtzzRrHZQukC3W7N2CLhCpspxtTH7U7Rjyua-lqpTsdTcKWmsf3zloQ/s1209/20230712_184838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImoOv4MJD8x7hqvYF5Kr31OF2Pt67q6YOBOJkWy1gf5GWZIAeCqvSbS5qWGOQlVtxSe8M1G6LHjYVcwpCGm8k3OJyWWQqPyT1P1InyVOdtdGkKmOaFRjuzrccwNOkzUVX7OtcBtzzRrHZQukC3W7N2CLhCpspxtTH7U7Rjyua-lqpTsdTcKWmsf3zloQ/s320/20230712_184838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_iHZXQiLDwZKTfS0D_yJIRvqz2sdTzhaE9GxZ3Uz7fTndPIy3WB6uQMBnbQEjO0RZANMONcGHtIqxpdbS0aJV4tZlmIEoZg49mRKVkOYZM1P38UNSymemqqzZY3Rm12_foLAjDR5EfJXWJJlufv0dyulI7I3btpeh6VnrK9l0Nae2DPL6zsrNtBRQYfU/s979/20230712_184922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_iHZXQiLDwZKTfS0D_yJIRvqz2sdTzhaE9GxZ3Uz7fTndPIy3WB6uQMBnbQEjO0RZANMONcGHtIqxpdbS0aJV4tZlmIEoZg49mRKVkOYZM1P38UNSymemqqzZY3Rm12_foLAjDR5EfJXWJJlufv0dyulI7I3btpeh6VnrK9l0Nae2DPL6zsrNtBRQYfU/s320/20230712_184922.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tutte queste foto sono scattate nella via centrale, quella bella. Figuratevi quelle intorno, che nemmeno sono asfaltate! E dire che questa città avrebbe tutte le carte in regola per fiorire. E' storicamente sede di haciendas per lo sfruttamento delle risorse della giungla, soprattutto il chicle e il legname. Di conseguenza è anche diventata snodo di strade e ferrovia, in uno dei punti di passaggio obbligato per la penisola dello Yucatan. E' detta "la porta del mondo maya", ma è un'assaccia di legno storta e piena di schegge, più che una porta. Ed è gran peccato. E' la prima città brutta che incrociamo, qui in Messico.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiw8pz4F5Ahq0HO4dqb5kJ8EYUELWYDosiSIRzqh6VWtR8aNcU_MQkTDgZy0huVY7jTx79DFL1aGe0-zBNVtsM89thUb4z31SsxZI_6kCR7-I1MMN--ohaqu2p9USxHCcPin-IdNSW-HaaRkCUB6RoF5fxc-SmWFS2PzAfomns4qogdKYL_VI2Lgq26Tg/s1209/20230712_185058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiw8pz4F5Ahq0HO4dqb5kJ8EYUELWYDosiSIRzqh6VWtR8aNcU_MQkTDgZy0huVY7jTx79DFL1aGe0-zBNVtsM89thUb4z31SsxZI_6kCR7-I1MMN--ohaqu2p9USxHCcPin-IdNSW-HaaRkCUB6RoF5fxc-SmWFS2PzAfomns4qogdKYL_VI2Lgq26Tg/s320/20230712_185058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl6RZrIbpdcb_l6Pnb1lIqj-FkKCM6HhdUXr0vkJdtsySzohHon9M9G5rfKDydDhUeH8V04rjeqCaQ-9uKRxfGLe7LADLnaJwURaahsUfItCZC_Y8mWyzD8n0NXy49tnYi0_n9kqEMWImZeTYmhCHUzLCxQ2KsPl-QgCnRlJZHM3AX_aBQs6oXj1W3OLE/s1209/20230712_185148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl6RZrIbpdcb_l6Pnb1lIqj-FkKCM6HhdUXr0vkJdtsySzohHon9M9G5rfKDydDhUeH8V04rjeqCaQ-9uKRxfGLe7LADLnaJwURaahsUfItCZC_Y8mWyzD8n0NXy49tnYi0_n9kqEMWImZeTYmhCHUzLCxQ2KsPl-QgCnRlJZHM3AX_aBQs6oXj1W3OLE/s320/20230712_185148.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hanno rubato anche la madonnina, spaccando il vetro :(</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Mentre osservo deliziata questo spettacolo di estetica del brutto, vagolo tra un negozio e l'altro alla ricerca di: camere d'aria (ne ho riparata una, oggi, ma meglio non farsi cogliere impreparati), lubrificante per catena (Gigi ne ha portate letteralmente tre gocce e lo abbiamo già finito), cena. Trovo tutto e senza fatiche, anzi, tra negozi, negozietti, mercato e supermercatoni c'è da perdersi. Alla fine, per stasera, si va di cena in camera con riso fritto con pollo e verdure e frutta fresca del mercado. Come sempre, tutto è buonissimo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi sta anche meglio: la febbre è scesa. Forse è stato solo un colpo di calore... In ogni caso ho già previsto un suo eventuale trasferimento in bus fino a Palenque, da qui. Ho ricalcolato le tappe e riusciamo a raggiungere, pedalando, la città adiacente al sito, in Chiapas, in solo due tappe, anzichè tre. A farmi rivalutare il percorso è stato il texmex proprietario dell'hotel, che mi ha consigliato di evitare strade secondarie anche per arrivare a Palenque, da qui, perchè ormai non sono più sicure nemmeno quelle. Io avevo messo in conto solo strade secondarie, per non star sempre sugli stradoni. Ma meglio così, risparmiamo anche un giorno. Solo che se Gigi non pedala non può raggiungermi nella sosta di domani, che è un paesucolo microscopico al confine con il Tabasco.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ergo: se Gigi si riprende andiamo in bici insieme, domani a El Aguacatal, sul fiume Chumpan, e dopodomani a Palenque. Se Gigi, invece, continua a non stare bene, andrà direttamente a Palenque, domani e dopodomani, mentre io pedalerò da sola per questi due giorni. Tra poche ore sapremo come organizzarci. In ogni caso siamo a 48 di viaggio dall'ultimo grande sito maya che visiteremo quaggiù, nel sud del paese. E in due giorni, oltretutto, lasceremo il Campeche, attraverseremo un lembo di Tabasco ed entreremo in Chiapas.</div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-26293388383164558242023-07-10T07:39:00.002+02:002023-07-10T07:39:39.225+02:0016-18. Da Campeche a Calakmul, dall'oceano alla giungla. Meraviglia e fatica.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfqNHr9YgvuHvB7DvVtz-TcLSR3BFMD0HT2aP54Ppu1nQHEntzlkvrWfl6SDiZR6WrUgv49K7LCCWv2HHuHaZTN7DEjT85EgYt3AvR41sutxp5-ycCPvf7itlhh7NS4C2WC2XofShh6B-eCNserux4wOeeVxNM4Sc8BUEeyi61NtGlSB_jhPFBzSEbLxw/s1209/20230709_104232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfqNHr9YgvuHvB7DvVtz-TcLSR3BFMD0HT2aP54Ppu1nQHEntzlkvrWfl6SDiZR6WrUgv49K7LCCWv2HHuHaZTN7DEjT85EgYt3AvR41sutxp5-ycCPvf7itlhh7NS4C2WC2XofShh6B-eCNserux4wOeeVxNM4Sc8BUEeyi61NtGlSB_jhPFBzSEbLxw/w640-h480/20230709_104232.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqe69QYdUfKefr2s7lU_sqK0pT2VAT_rXtxg1mOvGUIEaWK34L-HfQHBtkdgwNz16zzsA8VT7YzqwLvush3QOgruyhJ_CR99F1x4jzOeq7LaD9e1CnzDqM-AKzp_RC62Hwc6wPy9HcGXq-X7O7w7HTwnWfw6txdd7Me8ODYLkFgMpyxkeTS3Zj7CecYtU/s1123/20230708_155028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="842" data-original-width="1123" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqe69QYdUfKefr2s7lU_sqK0pT2VAT_rXtxg1mOvGUIEaWK34L-HfQHBtkdgwNz16zzsA8VT7YzqwLvush3QOgruyhJ_CR99F1x4jzOeq7LaD9e1CnzDqM-AKzp_RC62Hwc6wPy9HcGXq-X7O7w7HTwnWfw6txdd7Me8ODYLkFgMpyxkeTS3Zj7CecYtU/w640-h480/20230708_155028.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4iYSPH-T7flZNlrmUIzuJ-KC8jKBRQ6Ogg6j6lvH9AOs6T-vBSp-9brPVsSLjHLGUNQ6mPbWSjy5PzhMEYJ-0NJVepp5WLMOAnIKEMeGESHATc6byTkw1PGjnTZ4z3MC3eyuJ6BPOFXaEruN4T5c1xaSO2HfsL_OBI96zfjvbOeHvUqiRferh9bMqQiM/s1210/20230708_090212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4iYSPH-T7flZNlrmUIzuJ-KC8jKBRQ6Ogg6j6lvH9AOs6T-vBSp-9brPVsSLjHLGUNQ6mPbWSjy5PzhMEYJ-0NJVepp5WLMOAnIKEMeGESHATc6byTkw1PGjnTZ4z3MC3eyuJ6BPOFXaEruN4T5c1xaSO2HfsL_OBI96zfjvbOeHvUqiRferh9bMqQiM/w640-h296/20230708_090212.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuIAMqPZGZv_Xf2TkifA4HlU4Rd2CIY-f6bB4HD_M5ifiTL1nNlk5WLdBueRTlBtd8WxuL8tkb1vR6yN1NrVxvGCqkMs3HzYQvGcop1Ffr57rzw0b77bHVFEFv_aITqN_d1iO_cGcaRvaoVKoxV0X4DwjxwYcgGpK3W_eLP3q71xbY3Ohe3c8IybiphYs/s1209/20230707_181146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuIAMqPZGZv_Xf2TkifA4HlU4Rd2CIY-f6bB4HD_M5ifiTL1nNlk5WLdBueRTlBtd8WxuL8tkb1vR6yN1NrVxvGCqkMs3HzYQvGcop1Ffr57rzw0b77bHVFEFv_aITqN_d1iO_cGcaRvaoVKoxV0X4DwjxwYcgGpK3W_eLP3q71xbY3Ohe3c8IybiphYs/w640-h480/20230707_181146.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_fO7isp8XkZVQNtV5m0n8Rb1MhHcEC7BWbkEjIexe0HVNtCtnpE64PR4cthUv8RObidcHScBduBjvcuEYIwE-BHCU6K6jZUiozy_97hmdUMsylIs3fik8TOwZCbJiVPBr5a1kZMMHqh72pGOliC3dsKPL7G_1iuBMF7oYEEOixtU84eN_JRG-U30AjQ/s1209/20230707_191122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_fO7isp8XkZVQNtV5m0n8Rb1MhHcEC7BWbkEjIexe0HVNtCtnpE64PR4cthUv8RObidcHScBduBjvcuEYIwE-BHCU6K6jZUiozy_97hmdUMsylIs3fik8TOwZCbJiVPBr5a1kZMMHqh72pGOliC3dsKPL7G_1iuBMF7oYEEOixtU84eN_JRG-U30AjQ/w640-h480/20230707_191122.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhReIJUYYEoKGlBdxreOetLF8sGWthbxKY0mY1zoLzH82hD8YNRjnvWmkmPKz3Yb8bTTGlPKsTrPbX-Tutq87VsyulN2y-KEGuoJkJXkXCMqiUvaCfUNxQ-BFK-1NPQbPcEFVD4ygsfOmugivsQnzjd35vZnIKgcFIdYUu66oTnATWgtXUSy42fGzw4Dao/s1209/20230707_191705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhReIJUYYEoKGlBdxreOetLF8sGWthbxKY0mY1zoLzH82hD8YNRjnvWmkmPKz3Yb8bTTGlPKsTrPbX-Tutq87VsyulN2y-KEGuoJkJXkXCMqiUvaCfUNxQ-BFK-1NPQbPcEFVD4ygsfOmugivsQnzjd35vZnIKgcFIdYUu66oTnATWgtXUSy42fGzw4Dao/w640-h480/20230707_191705.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAj8d4q9I4aY7CoLyytID6dMt5oPDIsr3BGiABC5Fei7xEUGuPMEkhalL9GlKj1cob-zJXfIYmE7Ph-3t6sFfPxV_Pd3sbE9W0WOzOtSyZyPSNocNO7q9IP7w5Pom0IVQJupwcN52jexKigPLXfSkgR7eYNzy065fXxlEDidsBSreVCZ_-OqM_mF5sz_E/s1209/20230709_155407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAj8d4q9I4aY7CoLyytID6dMt5oPDIsr3BGiABC5Fei7xEUGuPMEkhalL9GlKj1cob-zJXfIYmE7Ph-3t6sFfPxV_Pd3sbE9W0WOzOtSyZyPSNocNO7q9IP7w5Pom0IVQJupwcN52jexKigPLXfSkgR7eYNzy065fXxlEDidsBSreVCZ_-OqM_mF5sz_E/w640-h480/20230709_155407.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">7/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">San Francisco de Campeche</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oggi ho vissuto la città di Campeche come se ci abitassi, e dovessi semplicemente sbrigare delle commissioni, prima, e trascorrere del tempo bello e rilassante, poi. Ci si adatta in fretta ai ritmi e ai modi messicani e trovo che le città siano esattamente della misura che mi si confà. Non anguste come i pueblos, dove onestamente è difficile pensare di poter vivere, anche solo per un po', ma nemmeno folli e disumane come le metropoli nostre o, peggio, statunitensi (l'unico mental breakdown grave che io abbia mai avuto in bici è capitato a New york, a viaggio finito, dopo l'ennesimo problema di mezzi di trasporto per tornare a Newark da Central Park con i due scatoloni delle bici. Mettetemi in mezzo a un deserto, in Amazzonia, a 5000 metri di quota o in uno sperduto villaggio e non avrò difficoltà. Mettetemi in un formicaio umano che supera un certo grado di complessità e spersonalizzazione e ciaone). </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma non divaghiamo e torniamo nella bella stanza che affaccia al mercato di Campeche.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La giornata inizia con calma, senza sveglia puntata alla tempia e senza fretta. Ci gustiamo la nostra bella colazione, assaggiando la marmellata di un frutto finora a me ignoto, il chabacano. Sembra pesca, in tutto, ma non è. In ogni caso, placet e assai, soprattutto spalmata sulle tortillas di mais e accompagnata dal caffè.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqcvXYmocQ2aDHRA4Rbbww0Bbz3Qik06ZgMAgxUHIJd6xQ5tt923jMTKdG7RXNkjKVAraIoMFC_w0xEDXMXzmkCAIBvSj6ZYALzur6iKRprWWduc1UpAUL6oIhQgkOmEBbIArA9Lbr_gaM4s_mc40psLbmjcY6hwztQGff5JhNBwoWLtljtBPr5suwLi8/s1209/20230707_095300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqcvXYmocQ2aDHRA4Rbbww0Bbz3Qik06ZgMAgxUHIJd6xQ5tt923jMTKdG7RXNkjKVAraIoMFC_w0xEDXMXzmkCAIBvSj6ZYALzur6iKRprWWduc1UpAUL6oIhQgkOmEBbIArA9Lbr_gaM4s_mc40psLbmjcY6hwztQGff5JhNBwoWLtljtBPr5suwLi8/s320/20230707_095300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A mattina già inoltrata ci buttiamo in strada, e fa un caldo che rincoglionisce. Mentre ci dirigiamo alla stazione degli autobus di seconda classe per chiedere lumi riguardo alle corse per Edznà, le cui rovine maya sarebbero il punto di partenza della nostra tappa di domani, ci rendiamo conto di aver l'alloggio nella via dei meccanici e dei ciclisti. Vuoi non comprare una camera d'aria, per scaramanzia? </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCoG0mEFjDBuLhAngvXQgXkPzF-VWaF6wCgxhJcxenM1wIbzVoVlhIaR1IBP1bUBolXT3W2OGGuTeN7o2_6bAU3vOBeaSv6VZ1oeZ3Axq2XS8aAecrIX5ZLzgQaeUUWFi8lEVvaIK-OlWmbt71ugZvKza0X8Fihx5Xdkf6Y9jwlrxTaWXLM_i-4Vshlw/s1209/20230707_113336.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCoG0mEFjDBuLhAngvXQgXkPzF-VWaF6wCgxhJcxenM1wIbzVoVlhIaR1IBP1bUBolXT3W2OGGuTeN7o2_6bAU3vOBeaSv6VZ1oeZ3Axq2XS8aAecrIX5ZLzgQaeUUWFi8lEVvaIK-OlWmbt71ugZvKza0X8Fihx5Xdkf6Y9jwlrxTaWXLM_i-4Vshlw/s320/20230707_113336.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Raggiungiamo la stazione dei bus, belli convinti di andarcene già con il nostro biglietto e le solite, sempre gradite rassicurazioni sul trasporto bici, ma... Sorpresona! Non ci sono bus che vadano ad Edznà. Solo colectivos. Ma sui colectivos le bici non salgono. A meno di non comprare due o tre file intere, e comunque senza avere alcuna certezza. Inizia qui un agitato pellegrinaggio da una stazione dei bus all'altra, da un infopoint al successivo. Il nostro problema, cui nessuno, apparentemente, riesce a trovar soluzione, è questo: da qui alla prossima città con strutture, Dzibalchén, ci sono 130km, tappa lunga ma fattibile, se ininterrotta. Ma al km 45 una interruzione c'è, e notevole: il sito archeologico di Edznà. Uscire dalla città, visitare le rovine e pedalare una distanza così impegnativa, per il clima che c'è, significa stroncarsi. Femarsi a dormire a Edznà e tagliare la tappa in due si potrebbe fare, ma oltre al sito archeologico non c'è nulla, se non forse, un prato in cui si possono piantare le tende. Ma così sprecheremmo un prezioso giorno di viaggio... Mi sto rendendo conto che, nonostante i due mesi e mezzo dedicati, il Messico ha troppe meraviglie da vedere per perder tempo. Quindi il punto è: arrivare a Edznà con un mezzo, visitare il sito di prima mattina e poi pedalare la novantina di kilometri restanti per raggiungere Dzibalchén. Ma questa semplice idea si scontra con la mancanza di corse dei bus con bagagliaio in quella direzione. Parlamentiamo un po' con gli autisti dei colectivos, che ci dicono di presentarci lì alla loro stazione domattina, che in qualche modo si fa, forse, se c'è spazio. E' una speranza ma troppo flebile per lasciarci tranquilli. Allora iniziamo a chiedere, a informarci, a domandare. Il caldo terrificante e il casino di gente e rumori del mercato, intorno a cui si svolgono tutte queste labirintiche operazioni, rendono difficile anche solo connettere i neuroni. Ma alla fine, dai e dai, ne veniamo a capo. Troviamo una buon'anima che, tra le altre cose, organizza tour, che ci dice che loro hanno dei pickup che fan corse tra Campeche ed Edznà, e pagando una cifra di poco superiore al colectivo possiamo prenotarne una. Detto, fatto, problema risolto! Che leggerezza, quasi quasi sembra che faccia anche meno caldo... Anzi no, si boccheggia, ci si dissecca l'anima. Risolta questa questione, la prima e più importante, possiamo passeggiare per la città alla ricerca delle altre cosine che ci servono: il gas per il fornello, una maglia leggera a maniche lunghe per proteggersi dalle zanzare foriere delle peggio malattie, ora che andremo nella giungla seria, e così via.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRcKTnuGZ3Bk10vZ_KMjrGqzlQAcz8hpzZT8-BLZAZz4ZbjF824iYdM8uPai5raHE-mb-t0myorI-aLsrBiSewZwh0NrVoqgo92H-gyrE1S6zyOvGGJujVya5x50pDKbSy_we6H0YfPh8xGhUKLdEB5q6NIzuSHk3HLmeJBIOkES3fKcrH53pIQolYPg/s1209/20230707_121400.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRcKTnuGZ3Bk10vZ_KMjrGqzlQAcz8hpzZT8-BLZAZz4ZbjF824iYdM8uPai5raHE-mb-t0myorI-aLsrBiSewZwh0NrVoqgo92H-gyrE1S6zyOvGGJujVya5x50pDKbSy_we6H0YfPh8xGhUKLdEB5q6NIzuSHk3HLmeJBIOkES3fKcrH53pIQolYPg/s320/20230707_121400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbRbD2SENBe90vt543pHaK4IOBL2bGPrphl_SNkpEuVmXV6TSnoPK-Q8ZLh4pZnWhbsk-7Xn_qXALuQsisPvAPUbleVueJlHYvHXXjO2tPqhg2OmpyeozRzPVbHC1klbgNtio4plL5hniicaMG60OxWG2IvCPs6Q4zxypwemLv75eDu6jI5TaPN64ebU/s1209/20230707_123151.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPbRbD2SENBe90vt543pHaK4IOBL2bGPrphl_SNkpEuVmXV6TSnoPK-Q8ZLh4pZnWhbsk-7Xn_qXALuQsisPvAPUbleVueJlHYvHXXjO2tPqhg2OmpyeozRzPVbHC1klbgNtio4plL5hniicaMG60OxWG2IvCPs6Q4zxypwemLv75eDu6jI5TaPN64ebU/s320/20230707_123151.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WltfLzJNjW4pyqbuGwyul9c502n16UvTBEfhsnXGRFxaZL6n0YXyg9J7WYTGGx4GPBDJC9YagTbiLnMkbKcI7Se8i0dEszXNYIJr2iuz5J0j7IXhDtmZcH_OaWt_J2jKwsq9ReevELaZ79pPqQDzrjpo2nqT0Ut3PQ397_h5rsMKDC4t7ArAMlicKIc/s1209/20230707_124314.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WltfLzJNjW4pyqbuGwyul9c502n16UvTBEfhsnXGRFxaZL6n0YXyg9J7WYTGGx4GPBDJC9YagTbiLnMkbKcI7Se8i0dEszXNYIJr2iuz5J0j7IXhDtmZcH_OaWt_J2jKwsq9ReevELaZ79pPqQDzrjpo2nqT0Ut3PQ397_h5rsMKDC4t7ArAMlicKIc/s320/20230707_124314.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLUKWbj-NgXcgMcTEfj1HpCfFOl6X-J2_MGGbp1bU9P5yq0BDYoIGTN25UqPE-uJd9E87hzKVqX4Yispc3WVwLcJDgarFeKJZ0KfMTDzP9BnYZeZvTiKw5-f1XTuS0cYNyzcQr4oPZH75oNdbs-VMDm8lNApHKVS0tnUKC5ObHwXNRC2_gtjg8yBW_ek/s1209/20230707_124337.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLUKWbj-NgXcgMcTEfj1HpCfFOl6X-J2_MGGbp1bU9P5yq0BDYoIGTN25UqPE-uJd9E87hzKVqX4Yispc3WVwLcJDgarFeKJZ0KfMTDzP9BnYZeZvTiKw5-f1XTuS0cYNyzcQr4oPZH75oNdbs-VMDm8lNApHKVS0tnUKC5ObHwXNRC2_gtjg8yBW_ek/s320/20230707_124337.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFi3sHdObJf8yjl-hZEP8k4NrkGg2ouEHb1hbB-LX6SuThbnyUZ0HmMKtLHTjKb6vfan4ggmVIsilMlXZmgZ94-Wyaa_vtj6tW2NPUxdiTaja5OI5ZtyIgs03ME8MbEJcUL-rQe1Efg3aF1Br1guvWsYdKwExkqcfAGEuhkq012R26rR2uw1v-iYKqNP8/s1209/20230707_125237.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFi3sHdObJf8yjl-hZEP8k4NrkGg2ouEHb1hbB-LX6SuThbnyUZ0HmMKtLHTjKb6vfan4ggmVIsilMlXZmgZ94-Wyaa_vtj6tW2NPUxdiTaja5OI5ZtyIgs03ME8MbEJcUL-rQe1Efg3aF1Br1guvWsYdKwExkqcfAGEuhkq012R26rR2uw1v-iYKqNP8/s320/20230707_125237.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIN7peFYXVv52ucTvHaCQ0rpU2E8oVbAEMMBEwFSmNYuLaqbXpwhhM_mrHjSe2zcRfdhlkSP0RgEXDBGRhBafJWhzaBB1uLBrNaL9gzMIJBBWwmQNdmlFH2yEz7XJcBqKMh6tZwS4vI1GzJwGzd9hvLw4DYxRWlvmnpbGIbW76iHyh0ZwJaQoFK2dbhkY/s1209/20230707_125240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIN7peFYXVv52ucTvHaCQ0rpU2E8oVbAEMMBEwFSmNYuLaqbXpwhhM_mrHjSe2zcRfdhlkSP0RgEXDBGRhBafJWhzaBB1uLBrNaL9gzMIJBBWwmQNdmlFH2yEz7XJcBqKMh6tZwS4vI1GzJwGzd9hvLw4DYxRWlvmnpbGIbW76iHyh0ZwJaQoFK2dbhkY/s320/20230707_125240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ne approfitto anche per ripercorrere al volo la storia di Campeche, che significa luogo dei serpenti e delle zecche in lingua maya. Si tratta di una delle poche città murate dell'America e il suo centro storico è patrimonio UNESCO, come dicevamo. Qui si trovava un villaggio dedito a pesca e commerci quando, nel 1517, gli spagnoli fecero una prima, breve capatina. La strenua resistenza dei maya rese però ardua la conquista, che avvenne solo nel 1540, quando Chichén Itza era caduta e la regione quasi completamente sottomessa. Per la sua felice posizione sul Golfo del Messico, la città, con gli spagnoli, fiorì e divenne il porto principale della penisola dello Yucatan. Ma tutta la ricchezza che transitava dal porto la rese un ghiotto obiettivo per i pirati. Dopo un'incursione particolarmente violenta, nel 1663, che lasciò Campeche ridotta a un cumulo di rovine, con navi affondate, edifici bruciati e cittadini derubati e trucidati, la corona spagnola decise di far costruire una cinta muraria esagonale e otto bastioni difensivi capaci di tener lontani i pirati. Le navi, per attraccare, dovevano navigare all'interno della fortezza, che oggi è ben conservata. Pare che di qui siano passati alcuni tra i corsari più leggendari: John Hawkins, Francis Drake, Henry Morgan e persino "Gambadilegno".</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8UToP5rsAdsT3UtLPx3uzT06PvQ2lrZljzYA5IR0yuQqpiJBktfwTMGX9WZMcKa7b1PrLDwTe_LELu-puCnT95ptbPYfHhF6FT3WdUw20IBtJMQeWeNPSqccpGQMUAOXDOJzVHvDPceXBxRHBdLCQZvdqj4DlPz7AVLFE1J2_EATFoqe7Kr4nw_oT0sg/s979/20230707_125246.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8UToP5rsAdsT3UtLPx3uzT06PvQ2lrZljzYA5IR0yuQqpiJBktfwTMGX9WZMcKa7b1PrLDwTe_LELu-puCnT95ptbPYfHhF6FT3WdUw20IBtJMQeWeNPSqccpGQMUAOXDOJzVHvDPceXBxRHBdLCQZvdqj4DlPz7AVLFE1J2_EATFoqe7Kr4nw_oT0sg/s320/20230707_125246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZARwwQzBb76Wguwo4hUKQQzhShDMQmUoFN01NmmTlL8zOgYtmzqC-4h428pBRiB1shJWbZ7OiuzBFfFzzjEpdJ9N_qDJcbIdg7Ob_e77U67HUsMdqhjfwbyQ3BimG-ooBjtJ3Z-ytWfi3j76yUzxZrg2Wv_4Sr6Qt8IN4aNYchNT2LfGzBNm6UidkcA/s979/20230707_125249.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZARwwQzBb76Wguwo4hUKQQzhShDMQmUoFN01NmmTlL8zOgYtmzqC-4h428pBRiB1shJWbZ7OiuzBFfFzzjEpdJ9N_qDJcbIdg7Ob_e77U67HUsMdqhjfwbyQ3BimG-ooBjtJ3Z-ytWfi3j76yUzxZrg2Wv_4Sr6Qt8IN4aNYchNT2LfGzBNm6UidkcA/s320/20230707_125249.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGW3m1wea62xV_nvWvzt1ivqDEIt-h-xR1X0N422PswFT7m48N__lChhf7fQ6LLUceQjah0R7sPNRoOZzw2LN4DygiwCOczuoHxMBpFRwv3XikdgrvE7G4Hvj3ctSKOsNjPuoAyMzs7bM4sQeRI-BCfVp-PxHo2BM1rb46EenElZIF2043KoiZLhkQxnY/s979/20230707_125304.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGW3m1wea62xV_nvWvzt1ivqDEIt-h-xR1X0N422PswFT7m48N__lChhf7fQ6LLUceQjah0R7sPNRoOZzw2LN4DygiwCOczuoHxMBpFRwv3XikdgrvE7G4Hvj3ctSKOsNjPuoAyMzs7bM4sQeRI-BCfVp-PxHo2BM1rb46EenElZIF2043KoiZLhkQxnY/s320/20230707_125304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKFDJRhWp-76luWsZMWcKnNPckK9cEfNytxp_G1h7XwSaNuCtNgD1lAUiXQ0aOis51-2CU8GYpXmqb0VfzbnpmYH94kD10q7RwGQiAFHVB4w6qzCECl7-wCOgk805yl3Qndk8Skgm0xNnpUyNp4f8qFo0XzmgQcTgB9SjQd45oYrp4Qgel5FEJUiAGYg8/s1209/20230707_131839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKFDJRhWp-76luWsZMWcKnNPckK9cEfNytxp_G1h7XwSaNuCtNgD1lAUiXQ0aOis51-2CU8GYpXmqb0VfzbnpmYH94kD10q7RwGQiAFHVB4w6qzCECl7-wCOgk805yl3Qndk8Skgm0xNnpUyNp4f8qFo0XzmgQcTgB9SjQd45oYrp4Qgel5FEJUiAGYg8/s320/20230707_131839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>L'ombelico di Campeche è la sua Plaza principal, con il chiosco in stile belle epoque sotto a cui ogni sera si svolgono feste ed eventi. Qui c'è un mercatino di artigianato e la gente viene a passeggiare, a mangiarsi un gelato o una marquesita e a riposare al fresco, all'ombra dei carrubi. Tutto intorno ci sono ville coloniali e palazzi nobiliari in condizioni perfette, con i loro portici e le balaustrate. Campeggia su tutto la sobria cattedrale di fine Seicento, con i suoi due campanili, in pietra calcarea chiara.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6q2fjhxfxR96zOKXQKYCCRUA0JXomIxyQTUHQFefwACTfoSBDfgDE4k_UuhpKUHJLosoiHpD-OitqtRVNoBm7MO6766rJ6cvt_aBiwwGueqNAGrQ4KGjpuGvGrmjKZfB_wneceSI7Qw6_k15yc-M3Vn5doB1TQfTDy0eBaT8HKDc-1AxWLYI8oRN9A1E/s1209/20230707_131925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6q2fjhxfxR96zOKXQKYCCRUA0JXomIxyQTUHQFefwACTfoSBDfgDE4k_UuhpKUHJLosoiHpD-OitqtRVNoBm7MO6766rJ6cvt_aBiwwGueqNAGrQ4KGjpuGvGrmjKZfB_wneceSI7Qw6_k15yc-M3Vn5doB1TQfTDy0eBaT8HKDc-1AxWLYI8oRN9A1E/s320/20230707_131925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPcLH0gubl0kKUS_0V_Eddx2kdbgMeFbcrUnLpztI011uH8BMcCHJ4k3B87RK-EZ_ankVFdDLznZjVEgu8YiGCN-AE8z0AXLPZG4nd0QK__0ytsHu6h9OL2TU8LoNCmSe-9piis_1iEuW1mIKPWn4BbDxR6gGmlz2kzkufDedylKFHnlkMbyIXvEX7S4/s1209/20230707_134244.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPcLH0gubl0kKUS_0V_Eddx2kdbgMeFbcrUnLpztI011uH8BMcCHJ4k3B87RK-EZ_ankVFdDLznZjVEgu8YiGCN-AE8z0AXLPZG4nd0QK__0ytsHu6h9OL2TU8LoNCmSe-9piis_1iEuW1mIKPWn4BbDxR6gGmlz2kzkufDedylKFHnlkMbyIXvEX7S4/s320/20230707_134244.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcxoyGVbMDuqRwcsA1RtQ99CLXer_lNf28rhBFcGR9gE4fnnYjYCGrfs_bvEqHygVFocXfV6JE0Mb0MhzD9CrgNnIIb5jGjPAusmryeNAa-m0SbQrvv-DWEI4etQQUgCxuPaJGLLKCajiw6ayw8mTEAaNWZ8YYzDhdF6TeL4WEQ4DTjn03Lgbdh1R0I0/s1209/20230707_134535.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcxoyGVbMDuqRwcsA1RtQ99CLXer_lNf28rhBFcGR9gE4fnnYjYCGrfs_bvEqHygVFocXfV6JE0Mb0MhzD9CrgNnIIb5jGjPAusmryeNAa-m0SbQrvv-DWEI4etQQUgCxuPaJGLLKCajiw6ayw8mTEAaNWZ8YYzDhdF6TeL4WEQ4DTjn03Lgbdh1R0I0/s320/20230707_134535.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_pdumBni0SLDWHN_5RPMEkr9Xk7ipKST3jL1CvYu91pkKPzAgu6yid0XcjHIrr7lEFJHcoge5e73aPmfpBU0W4yFl_t_y9ImXKx0QCtCn9ngBZ9IgKG_GYj5dzWCVOnrOpe5DL6B61RpN6-UZzoYF4_6IZoCzk2DcA35Oo6msTtnOIqfoamWgD8u5c0/s1209/20230707_134558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_pdumBni0SLDWHN_5RPMEkr9Xk7ipKST3jL1CvYu91pkKPzAgu6yid0XcjHIrr7lEFJHcoge5e73aPmfpBU0W4yFl_t_y9ImXKx0QCtCn9ngBZ9IgKG_GYj5dzWCVOnrOpe5DL6B61RpN6-UZzoYF4_6IZoCzk2DcA35Oo6msTtnOIqfoamWgD8u5c0/s320/20230707_134558.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci aggiriamo per negozi alla ricerca di ciò che ci serve, e la bellezza della città, anche in periferia, non è offuscata dal caldo, che pure annebbia la mente. Purtroppo le ricerche ci portano a girovagare lontano dai musei, e non riusciamo poi a visitarne nemmeno uno. Ma recupereremo recandoci direttamente nei siti archeologici da cui i reperti provengono.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTXx0foUvWjsY-iZvPc5jYEbkEV3b_q9LePPInUQEOgn8z43Q3NK7lIwEsfqb3Pc_pzjoUxtzD3DKFay1ZENcS0x8Tv5WaFV9vm1RdEKj2ngtt6CbSyTkOriEjTNIYLUf8Ml3W_7y-nBzFkmWYqTi2Bt6V9Z0QqDWyGkSb06G1XI-X9T7evv3vBq7bTsA/s1209/20230707_134951.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTXx0foUvWjsY-iZvPc5jYEbkEV3b_q9LePPInUQEOgn8z43Q3NK7lIwEsfqb3Pc_pzjoUxtzD3DKFay1ZENcS0x8Tv5WaFV9vm1RdEKj2ngtt6CbSyTkOriEjTNIYLUf8Ml3W_7y-nBzFkmWYqTi2Bt6V9Z0QqDWyGkSb06G1XI-X9T7evv3vBq7bTsA/s320/20230707_134951.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A metà giornata siamo bolliti e decidiamo di tornare un attimo in camera. Ci sorprende il solito diluvio pomeridiano, ma, cercando rifugio in un bugigattolo del mercato, mi imbatto nella maglia definitiva, quella che stavo cercando, molto più bella di come la immaginassi. Trattasi di tamarrissima maglia da motocross della Fox, brandizzata con calendario maya e bandiera fierissima del Messico. E' lei, è la mia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKNOHY05qyRH78jUEua1tBTrDKEe2FgpM44rPiesfUAzivql70PVB9ElB338nnr2M7-6i9g82PKa1Gy2Ym23v-lmk3wtQwXfVLYmK0SVbu0apInf5pIKntdSBJnHCvSAziYeQoBcS8MtlWlD8ucJkmxhkulGWMl2bZjOwA3Ko64PQisPMbGrrfJjshIg4/s1209/20230707_150745.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKNOHY05qyRH78jUEua1tBTrDKEe2FgpM44rPiesfUAzivql70PVB9ElB338nnr2M7-6i9g82PKa1Gy2Ym23v-lmk3wtQwXfVLYmK0SVbu0apInf5pIKntdSBJnHCvSAziYeQoBcS8MtlWlD8ucJkmxhkulGWMl2bZjOwA3Ko64PQisPMbGrrfJjshIg4/s320/20230707_150745.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg-1LBNA0ZMHSVdysdhVOS2YAfZk5vmjlajEXR5RmCiav3zYpreu0F1n2WEvRYGx3b0gQrA8MXYX3adSkUVNlBj1ofisgGnssKCcjQVuvJ9cFVxendazYUU8wwMP1Arzu3Av0wLPIm0VZKTN2ffNZ96_qQkI112wtxeocCG15QasMyc6TN_S8vXPZtI-U/s1209/20230707_151703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg-1LBNA0ZMHSVdysdhVOS2YAfZk5vmjlajEXR5RmCiav3zYpreu0F1n2WEvRYGx3b0gQrA8MXYX3adSkUVNlBj1ofisgGnssKCcjQVuvJ9cFVxendazYUU8wwMP1Arzu3Av0wLPIm0VZKTN2ffNZ96_qQkI112wtxeocCG15QasMyc6TN_S8vXPZtI-U/s320/20230707_151703.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFwf4IgxyLyx3rC3G-JfERboHeYrOC6EEI2xgVEMLTF3mliOKlB1dKz6C2Olf3IaFaKOo3jw9wbEC-juCwaSqcleTyB7yDqYXuwDS0QqFuF89SPDHZ9wD102YI6PzWJjfUol9Of5C7mWRPjZfz6ynbloePzMCvEx06lBYSHCnH94GfXU7QFyErLKog97o/s1210/20230707_152123.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFwf4IgxyLyx3rC3G-JfERboHeYrOC6EEI2xgVEMLTF3mliOKlB1dKz6C2Olf3IaFaKOo3jw9wbEC-juCwaSqcleTyB7yDqYXuwDS0QqFuF89SPDHZ9wD102YI6PzWJjfUol9Of5C7mWRPjZfz6ynbloePzMCvEx06lBYSHCnH94GfXU7QFyErLKog97o/s320/20230707_152123.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo un passaggio in camera, Gigi decide che preferisce restare a riposare al fresco. Io invece smanio per uscire di nuovo e, appena spiove, torno nel labirinto di vicoli un po' colorati, un po' maleodoranti, del mercato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJ-q-QXQe8xCFsGr5PaVvhYQUy-dAcP5_xLgJNBv1Wbq76hYMnnls7XUgLkmVX-HOWbDsMOgQ_-Yc8wLEOf0yM45hogV3jk-xOoa97gLtGubB2u7Wwe1nczQWPAeiTasscEU4feD7HzTb1xJsAQcPZj_n8DvHkisjHNgEVbC6ZikTsT6MdSV-N4cxhsQ/s1209/20230707_161142.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJ-q-QXQe8xCFsGr5PaVvhYQUy-dAcP5_xLgJNBv1Wbq76hYMnnls7XUgLkmVX-HOWbDsMOgQ_-Yc8wLEOf0yM45hogV3jk-xOoa97gLtGubB2u7Wwe1nczQWPAeiTasscEU4feD7HzTb1xJsAQcPZj_n8DvHkisjHNgEVbC6ZikTsT6MdSV-N4cxhsQ/s320/20230707_161142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOPXgWEfygHFQIkB9x7iqP8x_Wxr7kZ3maN2XClaSF6uPMHFMFQWnC6lUY2GnBjmpovJujThcVtaACqJbyp6Zr5HjNJA19PMvWlCQwjZXnJcpwcicdXBcz85gMtnMw3q_UryfHX92NI4C5c-Ru0ua31Mfji8McRPjdvNiRRI8Y61AXlyZm07ApUiU0q8Q/s1209/20230707_161630.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOPXgWEfygHFQIkB9x7iqP8x_Wxr7kZ3maN2XClaSF6uPMHFMFQWnC6lUY2GnBjmpovJujThcVtaACqJbyp6Zr5HjNJA19PMvWlCQwjZXnJcpwcicdXBcz85gMtnMw3q_UryfHX92NI4C5c-Ru0ua31Mfji8McRPjdvNiRRI8Y61AXlyZm07ApUiU0q8Q/s320/20230707_161630.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSxwEz-bxe886AJdmbsSv4BeztKuHctqXVxP_EbxijMmyCPTdfiFfHp_HF8OJzDqoaJJ4o4yfn40QoViQs7u8ahRdQ35HLsDwavtuG3Ql1VAPFGRjVYEcPG58eKOsaafsUQlgjpTey11DO1xpp3_PFZ950zFZsUVDz_PTrFAFCXi1c-2Rj0-XXZ63qtPM/s1209/20230707_161638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSxwEz-bxe886AJdmbsSv4BeztKuHctqXVxP_EbxijMmyCPTdfiFfHp_HF8OJzDqoaJJ4o4yfn40QoViQs7u8ahRdQ35HLsDwavtuG3Ql1VAPFGRjVYEcPG58eKOsaafsUQlgjpTey11DO1xpp3_PFZ950zFZsUVDz_PTrFAFCXi1c-2Rj0-XXZ63qtPM/s320/20230707_161638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg570OfxJnAnx-ygZP8rKQgLc_ZBnIYOVbNIdn31UFSmkPO5xLLUNyRO8eeVp2oXJWdg-dxCF8rE9MtsLaL-RdqqsrFtjFST6lbx2WcQtkFxuQ3n9q-2G1iagMhnevll6rWI8RcczA0onGtp0yGztcvLrM-8whpnSKd23jEwI20OX0yz7lvV6Khq69Qf1s/s1209/20230707_161654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg570OfxJnAnx-ygZP8rKQgLc_ZBnIYOVbNIdn31UFSmkPO5xLLUNyRO8eeVp2oXJWdg-dxCF8rE9MtsLaL-RdqqsrFtjFST6lbx2WcQtkFxuQ3n9q-2G1iagMhnevll6rWI8RcczA0onGtp0yGztcvLrM-8whpnSKd23jEwI20OX0yz7lvV6Khq69Qf1s/s320/20230707_161654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Faccio il giro delle mura e dei bastioni, che un tempo si snodavano per 2,5km, 8m di altezza e 3,5 di spessore, costruiti in mezzo secolo da manodopera nativa. Sono effettivamente impressionanti. Poi mi lascio portare dalla brezza verso il mare, indugiando in stradine lastricate con le famose case color pastello. Nonostante il cielo grigio, queste facciate risplendono di bellezza semplice e danno allegria (che, come leggo spesso in slogan qui, è un diritto di tutti).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUj-MQQdV8HUwwlqkYSTmhehdAmaWr9XVoGCpZkyRMpZ0xEdN0IcyiHEWSxJjk4rDii_hGP1Sn0k1scyncb_pNPILBW8RLbUF-g3fSuG37RgcuFNRgtaJuAW0mhfyBZdHTqh9qX-fCpg9IbSp0JjJBJplDwtUz6Pk6HYQe8JD9ujQr9Fn52Dq3PMHcy6c/s1209/20230707_163040.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUj-MQQdV8HUwwlqkYSTmhehdAmaWr9XVoGCpZkyRMpZ0xEdN0IcyiHEWSxJjk4rDii_hGP1Sn0k1scyncb_pNPILBW8RLbUF-g3fSuG37RgcuFNRgtaJuAW0mhfyBZdHTqh9qX-fCpg9IbSp0JjJBJplDwtUz6Pk6HYQe8JD9ujQr9Fn52Dq3PMHcy6c/s320/20230707_163040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_lZYBN3Sn-MUFvLGggUa03kOEzjqPD8Ryp8Swv66Stpfo-ot-N1JCwyeZSnjrlk2Jjed_SwfiofvbNQXIAVBQG0gD00M7E1IGMn25TTkTsJFVoME29C8xtxJ3YKyF1wNwF8Wx2XShXesH0Ld0y_DnUM_j9oFclCXiJGebiw6MgTNTAzDoYXf2-GLZQSQ/s979/20230707_163045.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_lZYBN3Sn-MUFvLGggUa03kOEzjqPD8Ryp8Swv66Stpfo-ot-N1JCwyeZSnjrlk2Jjed_SwfiofvbNQXIAVBQG0gD00M7E1IGMn25TTkTsJFVoME29C8xtxJ3YKyF1wNwF8Wx2XShXesH0Ld0y_DnUM_j9oFclCXiJGebiw6MgTNTAzDoYXf2-GLZQSQ/s320/20230707_163045.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuAutZaMRsYmQqifSM6XKkGFuIDqFNMSqo2pq4dEfqihg3QX_WRjpSUU8xnIbgGjHMcwJoXhWhJcCZDXjqsxEo_7Cb2Tk4uqiZ8fARClAtwt-W_UGOfYhnDGpwzKjVGzjFgNIIo3G8yOFVN9fBxi0zQm_l8zsys_IejyJ5IQYm9UysIsRvYirPjUn7KQ/s1209/20230707_163111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRuAutZaMRsYmQqifSM6XKkGFuIDqFNMSqo2pq4dEfqihg3QX_WRjpSUU8xnIbgGjHMcwJoXhWhJcCZDXjqsxEo_7Cb2Tk4uqiZ8fARClAtwt-W_UGOfYhnDGpwzKjVGzjFgNIIo3G8yOFVN9fBxi0zQm_l8zsys_IejyJ5IQYm9UysIsRvYirPjUn7KQ/s320/20230707_163111.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJjodBF5oeOaPYwEST9cJtIxFn9BY8fbXjabH4RkBmNsXx6gBP0I23RG-kaEvaDJB91Y_sLh0ryMxA4IxQk_iWsoY7LYD_4tcaSZ24LGbRIzQbfJr6DHeM-63ga5iAkxkcCn6yFtSkLaSXM9Eh38HQ753amsowvxaNcZtjGys6CFxTM1DNLlKn58OHSc/s1209/20230707_163955.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiJjodBF5oeOaPYwEST9cJtIxFn9BY8fbXjabH4RkBmNsXx6gBP0I23RG-kaEvaDJB91Y_sLh0ryMxA4IxQk_iWsoY7LYD_4tcaSZ24LGbRIzQbfJr6DHeM-63ga5iAkxkcCn6yFtSkLaSXM9Eh38HQ753amsowvxaNcZtjGys6CFxTM1DNLlKn58OHSc/s320/20230707_163955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaN24XXNTn44MwBXaABHt4pUN42ETIIXZ4YgcCh6u67XrYEiEPDs3P_d4vNy34ni1ZbckfqmWL5w0I1ktCO7FG8JWdUNKck6MnEiEA8b3_dnijRrW_vGDwykRFMSjFv2nHv4Swt6TuE3_UASr6VhAtAJ-T1DxC-atvAhLjKdPgsowdilqCiT43aWBopsI/s1209/20230707_165820.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaN24XXNTn44MwBXaABHt4pUN42ETIIXZ4YgcCh6u67XrYEiEPDs3P_d4vNy34ni1ZbckfqmWL5w0I1ktCO7FG8JWdUNKck6MnEiEA8b3_dnijRrW_vGDwykRFMSjFv2nHv4Swt6TuE3_UASr6VhAtAJ-T1DxC-atvAhLjKdPgsowdilqCiT43aWBopsI/s320/20230707_165820.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Txj0iqohRlviMBJApZeUGyqJoxJoVQUBnqS4IkOg9_MelHbVFYTHoAlNDj6GWc6RgWuvZ1PXTPUkb58ZfzK-SyaGnubxAttjXO1LV3eKXudRKJ8hoJx1Rh-e7QrjTQ1e73smbNqIeNEj3t8P_T2z7zBHbUY5rPKjzPAuHi6ZtjJSCBfjkajfGSRkZbI/s1209/20230707_170120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Txj0iqohRlviMBJApZeUGyqJoxJoVQUBnqS4IkOg9_MelHbVFYTHoAlNDj6GWc6RgWuvZ1PXTPUkb58ZfzK-SyaGnubxAttjXO1LV3eKXudRKJ8hoJx1Rh-e7QrjTQ1e73smbNqIeNEj3t8P_T2z7zBHbUY5rPKjzPAuHi6ZtjJSCBfjkajfGSRkZbI/s320/20230707_170120.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_Q_wEGkrmz-nVwTZdfhhmEYtxORPQClsbx_qqIZ-cBhHS4wEks8IYO3-obQUFYhMRvroxpXe4tvp4MHxoW0-zR2wGmfbz4Ziq86T-ZP_OtNtwM-8tSq-wiS_JNxzNF9h6nlB1yYU9jxI4mH3JvbKRxOio1cTripzR9_bmUiC_Fo1Ab4MbUlEFsUzGOg/s1209/20230707_170615.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB_Q_wEGkrmz-nVwTZdfhhmEYtxORPQClsbx_qqIZ-cBhHS4wEks8IYO3-obQUFYhMRvroxpXe4tvp4MHxoW0-zR2wGmfbz4Ziq86T-ZP_OtNtwM-8tSq-wiS_JNxzNF9h6nlB1yYU9jxI4mH3JvbKRxOio1cTripzR9_bmUiC_Fo1Ab4MbUlEFsUzGOg/s320/20230707_170615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaRNdVHYIqlQlyTusW5dWSmeEH4gAr9HmLa0_Lg23fQWYyP7dAewKSwRyN3ri4hZCCl0OLOorTNd9AMfcK_OhTnHnWp2k3J4BZp90ZbUFcF9S0UHAjCyRuP22DjrN3b03iTlx9I8hbkII9LhxMltJGLF5Mb8iInH5xJHbHw7r3Q2WL6b0NDuwUH_R2DUc/s1209/20230707_170626.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaRNdVHYIqlQlyTusW5dWSmeEH4gAr9HmLa0_Lg23fQWYyP7dAewKSwRyN3ri4hZCCl0OLOorTNd9AMfcK_OhTnHnWp2k3J4BZp90ZbUFcF9S0UHAjCyRuP22DjrN3b03iTlx9I8hbkII9LhxMltJGLF5Mb8iInH5xJHbHw7r3Q2WL6b0NDuwUH_R2DUc/s320/20230707_170626.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgepv3wUJRsfVBeZbBsZOUSxj6P69C9OKgj7fDjkgyLur-QFSmhxVmjs1JjB5n8IO91oFfUtoFuWu9K6Nt_tW12ZJphLnlVtgMVJoEVKdUEleCzY_Rg07FpD_NXWpCcBBgZ4KS8orWIy8B0q9rRdtU7MhPbAEufWa97IY20_kxqTguniU6xs2EwiTRUy6o/s1209/20230707_170801.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgepv3wUJRsfVBeZbBsZOUSxj6P69C9OKgj7fDjkgyLur-QFSmhxVmjs1JjB5n8IO91oFfUtoFuWu9K6Nt_tW12ZJphLnlVtgMVJoEVKdUEleCzY_Rg07FpD_NXWpCcBBgZ4KS8orWIy8B0q9rRdtU7MhPbAEufWa97IY20_kxqTguniU6xs2EwiTRUy6o/s320/20230707_170801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Torno sul malecon a respirare l'aria salmastra e a riempirmi il cuore di luce caramello del tramonto. Passeggio sul lungomare, osservo i ciclisti, i runner, le famiglie a passeggio. Si sta proprio bene, qui.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZJPwkrPFUDn60FBuMpHiUB3qMyRNG0XVNW46fiDGzBRjNhVifM0RGo6YtcYA-qwzl9eIfHiDhS86Ywue-KO75J4NFhkn5ga1wim-BB4jOrfBTnzw5Uq_3QZNyvAEo33JUmPEh05HoV6q3VvJypBh8XIuAc2cN2rXyE51gY7ZhkTbibw7z6vpviKQSU8/s1209/20230707_171152.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZJPwkrPFUDn60FBuMpHiUB3qMyRNG0XVNW46fiDGzBRjNhVifM0RGo6YtcYA-qwzl9eIfHiDhS86Ywue-KO75J4NFhkn5ga1wim-BB4jOrfBTnzw5Uq_3QZNyvAEo33JUmPEh05HoV6q3VvJypBh8XIuAc2cN2rXyE51gY7ZhkTbibw7z6vpviKQSU8/s320/20230707_171152.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-iNj_gA988a8EnRp7Gf0SB-K4H0FSdD3mas3z0zA8_agsgxhLzrZzdUGEIoenvQI3bM2J_T-_6U5Gh2yeo5GPPi0YjdTNE7EDrkiknYbWnvhwC71cFtVrJ2ikx_BbwSQWah32tUn2YCnYeOiVE25-DZ-BuCSc59UiLjqaNP3yyaGRhuOD7YFPN-hOYQ/s1209/20230707_171304.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-iNj_gA988a8EnRp7Gf0SB-K4H0FSdD3mas3z0zA8_agsgxhLzrZzdUGEIoenvQI3bM2J_T-_6U5Gh2yeo5GPPi0YjdTNE7EDrkiknYbWnvhwC71cFtVrJ2ikx_BbwSQWah32tUn2YCnYeOiVE25-DZ-BuCSc59UiLjqaNP3yyaGRhuOD7YFPN-hOYQ/s320/20230707_171304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9BOQqXKmliy22UvL7LaclEEuEqfosey79v6_u0FF7gmBQfKdRwZ9WwzD8hb_YWUwoE7lPddvW8nuUOCA6iY3BruGJmIxXvJ-R-GSQ5GhseWIRLPJm6Sc1kBo2O2MIlFRuXrOw_xFhZ7RGnkVCNM6wG_8yOLNhQITP9rfU8Y9O6DGsPgBDS5kPOllWkE/s1209/20230707_171356.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9BOQqXKmliy22UvL7LaclEEuEqfosey79v6_u0FF7gmBQfKdRwZ9WwzD8hb_YWUwoE7lPddvW8nuUOCA6iY3BruGJmIxXvJ-R-GSQ5GhseWIRLPJm6Sc1kBo2O2MIlFRuXrOw_xFhZ7RGnkVCNM6wG_8yOLNhQITP9rfU8Y9O6DGsPgBDS5kPOllWkE/s320/20230707_171356.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wLBwt2UTQHroXv5TfGrYIKaqZi0WOvGVxRFqraGGZ8FDTdSOHoAEGIArmU3TDeL02m8SAXXV2Qs99fh0MtNN2LTFCxO-iVeVq_BQgOTG6oOmbvhjsPOWyXTwKbYdJGowNYhfrjZgBuxzcNe-otOpAhYVbjobLZ87YQjbioxMNQ2RRgDZFEjtqiCLOG0/s1209/20230707_171531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2wLBwt2UTQHroXv5TfGrYIKaqZi0WOvGVxRFqraGGZ8FDTdSOHoAEGIArmU3TDeL02m8SAXXV2Qs99fh0MtNN2LTFCxO-iVeVq_BQgOTG6oOmbvhjsPOWyXTwKbYdJGowNYhfrjZgBuxzcNe-otOpAhYVbjobLZ87YQjbioxMNQ2RRgDZFEjtqiCLOG0/s320/20230707_171531.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCkydcHmhfApUJXLbMhtrQuUABufheOY5FqcmMS0LBmnHM5BTUhVK7a3JaBESg7-LavKAJOg1eBKUwAnpr7gw5OfqoF582i9pLeJMJv-k8Cf12IyabYS-coy7E4QMQmK58GILgZ7dCSyjwClboNfFAkl18lxLVjYVTlQ6dhZkYmmXeOQewYMG1U_-NmI/s1209/20230707_172607.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCkydcHmhfApUJXLbMhtrQuUABufheOY5FqcmMS0LBmnHM5BTUhVK7a3JaBESg7-LavKAJOg1eBKUwAnpr7gw5OfqoF582i9pLeJMJv-k8Cf12IyabYS-coy7E4QMQmK58GILgZ7dCSyjwClboNfFAkl18lxLVjYVTlQ6dhZkYmmXeOQewYMG1U_-NmI/s320/20230707_172607.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3rPhawDh5K4yFHKz3cjTOXAzT9CtUsHRc96YxH7SEbHJOj9TkF_jhKbmUON3EsOYRCNXE1Tl7jeNwJbUvrJ9r6XH_385VEqiajMwzr5k7rITWONlbpRzF9OgA4LztkkUI4DeLnrEtMomp_N5CLv6zWqQK40vvEn8v22SCQCre5DTbCFtrcCEF04GUlA/s979/20230707_173132.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3rPhawDh5K4yFHKz3cjTOXAzT9CtUsHRc96YxH7SEbHJOj9TkF_jhKbmUON3EsOYRCNXE1Tl7jeNwJbUvrJ9r6XH_385VEqiajMwzr5k7rITWONlbpRzF9OgA4LztkkUI4DeLnrEtMomp_N5CLv6zWqQK40vvEn8v22SCQCre5DTbCFtrcCEF04GUlA/s320/20230707_173132.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-nqoO_SEjrY2vxJp-0TxAP1Arv_Q2r3S-Hndxja6V-aU8RI7WpbgbzLOWiQWxDb4gePUaTGpxqZIVpJhLVqxLc80bykwAQt4MfCIAVF_WQI6MbUBiJKD6OqrJf959k29IYZREmj00deDl5lui8F3nsn8g3UMSmEQQaE8g4pZkHUt4ShB63qA1EzpC8E8/s1209/20230707_173757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-nqoO_SEjrY2vxJp-0TxAP1Arv_Q2r3S-Hndxja6V-aU8RI7WpbgbzLOWiQWxDb4gePUaTGpxqZIVpJhLVqxLc80bykwAQt4MfCIAVF_WQI6MbUBiJKD6OqrJf959k29IYZREmj00deDl5lui8F3nsn8g3UMSmEQQaE8g4pZkHUt4ShB63qA1EzpC8E8/s320/20230707_173757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passo poi davanti al centro congressi, immenso edificio modernissimo, e vedo folle di gente super elegante entrare e uscire. Sembrano tutti pronti per una cerimonia di gran lusso. Mi incuriosisco. Entro nel parcheggio, dove tre umarells con gilet catarifrangente dirigono il traffico in modo assolutamente spannometrico e casuale, e, prima ancora di avvicinarmi a chiedere, mi trovo catapultata per loro iniziativa in una conversazione paradossale. </div><div>Di dove sei? </div><div>Italiana. </div><div>Ah! Viva la Juve, viva Berlusconi!</div><div>Ma no, è anche morto!</div><div>Ah già, poi non è stato molto bravo come politico per l'Italia, vero? </div><div>Eh, no. Ma que pasa qui? </div><div>C'è un bellissimo congresso dei testimoni di Geova! Dura tre giorni, ieri oggi e domani. Dalle 8 alle 20 conferenze, incontri, sermoni, dibattiti. Sei invitata! Domattina vieni, ne vale la pena! Come si dice buongiorno ma di sera?</div><div>Buonasera.</div><div>E notte? Buonanotte?</div><div>Esatto, bravissimo!</div><div>Si gasano per questo minicorso di italiano e andiamo avanti così un po'.</div><div>Poi mi cacciano in mano un volantino tutto stropicciato. Il titolo: "Tengan paciencia". E poi l'elenco dei meeting, delle proiezioni, dei concerti, dei discorsi. Maronn. </div><div>Quando sono ormai a qualche decina di metri mi gridano: Arrivederci!</div><div>Ci stavano pensando su da minuti tutti e tre.</div><div>Che storia. Comunque questo siparietto mi ha permesso di vedere come si vestono eleganti i campecheni e cosa intendono per dresscode. Gli uomini o in smoking o, più spesso, in casmicia, jeans, mocassini di pelle e cappello da cowboy. Le donne con abitoni coloratissimi, tacco e trucco e parrucco esagerati.</div><div><br /></div><div>Proseguo il mio vagabondare ed entro all'Home Depot per cercare il gas. Non lo trovo, ma riescono a farmi comprare una scatola di alcol in gel con la quale, probabilmente, darò fuoco a qualcosa, scatenando un incendio di proporzioni catastrofiche. Ma che ne sa la commessa dell'errore che sta commettendo a vendermi roba incendiaria. Incrocio anche qui, ed è tutto il giorno che succede, coppie di mennoniti in libera uscita, con i loro abiti da contadini dell'altro secolo e la loro lingua mix di tedesco e olandese, il Plautdietsch. La loro corporatura e carnagione, anche, che dimostrano una bella chiusura della comunità rispetto ai local.</div><div>Sarà che devono vivere in modo sobrio e umile, ma quelli che sto vedendo oggi indulgono ad ogni tipo di acquisto, in primis tutta la gamma del cibo spazzatura, dalle patatine piccanti al cioccolato nelle varie forme, alle caramelle più laide. Mah.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElLjeZ-Z6LAQ8igw-xBmb0AT5cx22EicGS18YTDc17C1h-SAjHgkU3F6B59oa3BoVkM6jnc-uarKOHZJvbs7N0-p_i6oTmHO8o0zHgrQzM2-4XRECDRLG4WAiXV8Jkzf2PJqCfxFbKEcoCBge-QaFMKLhGW1SS5RC6WXG-gKZkl9EGwZKMuPThXPZUB8/s1209/20230707_175951.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElLjeZ-Z6LAQ8igw-xBmb0AT5cx22EicGS18YTDc17C1h-SAjHgkU3F6B59oa3BoVkM6jnc-uarKOHZJvbs7N0-p_i6oTmHO8o0zHgrQzM2-4XRECDRLG4WAiXV8Jkzf2PJqCfxFbKEcoCBge-QaFMKLhGW1SS5RC6WXG-gKZkl9EGwZKMuPThXPZUB8/s320/20230707_175951.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A questo punto, dopo esser stata fermata all'ingresso di un centro commerciale così esclusivo che richiede una tessera per entrare, come in un club, me ne torno sui miei passi, verso il centro.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf59yeULu2bJ5HWAr9aw-FaPcZrrXK04_QjX6LIGRieBxQ-Pl6wKxwn5hWUdNy7DSlA9gD_xW4PYWg4syOlBoCpVsqjAW8Y61-C8E5qPouYiKdqc4leyzkwyV1JUfogja59clkfRD0ePsAX2S7IWXjoBxDknrMbKaFOU3UyOiC0MC91od0gZg7qhmr4mI/s1209/20230707_182720.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf59yeULu2bJ5HWAr9aw-FaPcZrrXK04_QjX6LIGRieBxQ-Pl6wKxwn5hWUdNy7DSlA9gD_xW4PYWg4syOlBoCpVsqjAW8Y61-C8E5qPouYiKdqc4leyzkwyV1JUfogja59clkfRD0ePsAX2S7IWXjoBxDknrMbKaFOU3UyOiC0MC91od0gZg7qhmr4mI/s320/20230707_182720.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nella piazza principale scopro che ci sono non uno, ma ben due eventi stasera. Il primo è un concerto di un gruppo di chitarre e voci, che propongono pezzi tradizionali della regione. Il secondo è uno spettacolo di danze tipiche, ma questa volta non ci sono solo le sciure del centro anziani, ma anche bimbi e ragazzi acchittati di tutto punto con gli abiti della festa. Ovviamente mi fermo a godermi lo spettacolo fino a che non fa completamente buio. Mi sorprende assistere a una tale esuberanza di proposte culturali ce riguardano la tradizione locale, seppur di piazza. Non mi è chiaro se si tratti di orgoglioso campanilismo da orizzonti un po' ristretti o genuina fierezza nel mantenere viva una propria identità, in questo modo sempre più globalizzato e che qui guarda di continuo all'ingombrante vicino a stelle e strisce. Se globalizzazione significasse maggiore complessità, non ci sarebbe problema. Ma purtroppo significa appiattimento e semplificazione. Quindi assisto a queste danze, e mi chiedo con quale spirito siano affrontate e proposte, ricordate dagli anziani e trasmesse ai bimbi. Mi stupisce anche come le ragazzine e i ragazzini siano messi in condizioni di imparare da piccolissimi certe "cose da grandi" come il corteggiamento e le sue arti. Ceto è che qui, tra concerto e danze, non ci si annoia, anzi, tutto accade insieme con un certo grado di confusione, perchè una musica copre l'altra. Ma il Messico mi sa che è anche questo. Il pubblico è composto da turisti solo in minima parte: i più sono genitori e parenti orgogliosi che filmano i propri pargoli alla ribalta. Nella folla che applaude si fanno largo le venditrici ambulanti, che, essendo ormai sera, trascinano i piedi dopo una giornata a camminare cariche di amache, camicette e tessuti ricamati. Spesso si portano dietro anche i figli, che imparano il mestiere. E così si vedono gli esseri umani di serie A, famiglie che danzano e passano del buon tempo, e gli esseri umani di serie B, famiglie che tirano a campare spaccandosi la schiena per due spicci. Li divide la linea del palco, i primi sotto alla luce, i secondi in ombra.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY5MmOUBB2TKRUhiuvlP7xQEVGxGOFZXPkYCMPBlAJhYKdk46ljCez7nHfV5zsoyj9sRp_XPXSLMmL_WxJwTz1kkTlT3IFjjtz1WukCWc8GTlG9eAM19YwFRnsRpxvA3LXIHt3cv4DcEmIVLegv2TSKgQb17mQeot6BeIIy9vz3Vg_43EqaT6p43gcUXc/s1209/20230707_182911.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY5MmOUBB2TKRUhiuvlP7xQEVGxGOFZXPkYCMPBlAJhYKdk46ljCez7nHfV5zsoyj9sRp_XPXSLMmL_WxJwTz1kkTlT3IFjjtz1WukCWc8GTlG9eAM19YwFRnsRpxvA3LXIHt3cv4DcEmIVLegv2TSKgQb17mQeot6BeIIy9vz3Vg_43EqaT6p43gcUXc/s320/20230707_182911.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FlYX6o4CCNLuLghmzEIAzcHKBk2mJm-XHQ30-4fRP9WfNzPjZ1CTfQUkVlMFQGznNvmlohy2_5ZqJWJUXK8Bc2uQ1Vt6MkzrPpQ_BCRYjiniW3JyOtSaQK50eEtcUkXY_Pz_sBh3eT6QAduMZOWDw4yx6R7eFVlZp5eloJTnEE-aQ6IqKafPPol7S28/s1209/20230707_183120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FlYX6o4CCNLuLghmzEIAzcHKBk2mJm-XHQ30-4fRP9WfNzPjZ1CTfQUkVlMFQGznNvmlohy2_5ZqJWJUXK8Bc2uQ1Vt6MkzrPpQ_BCRYjiniW3JyOtSaQK50eEtcUkXY_Pz_sBh3eT6QAduMZOWDw4yx6R7eFVlZp5eloJTnEE-aQ6IqKafPPol7S28/s320/20230707_183120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQvKg-h4lODLtAVROlZzmxvUgOZEqYgG-INsnZ19WStCU-9MuEcz4rRm_Thv79Z2boa50OcSwal8uKbAgPVpd3WV-OM3f0JMc881Y2SO_bQ106TMiGMaz-9Y3tsY8LLushpsskpCnbXAC0xuW2z7EmM9QYkpsGpUTfLAjhjFP0e76aRiH22XdhyZQ0q8/s1209/20230707_183305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQvKg-h4lODLtAVROlZzmxvUgOZEqYgG-INsnZ19WStCU-9MuEcz4rRm_Thv79Z2boa50OcSwal8uKbAgPVpd3WV-OM3f0JMc881Y2SO_bQ106TMiGMaz-9Y3tsY8LLushpsskpCnbXAC0xuW2z7EmM9QYkpsGpUTfLAjhjFP0e76aRiH22XdhyZQ0q8/s320/20230707_183305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3QTLAeJAhT8Wmlrc2pnMv3A3PvWEPQWzKFXMCHEanldST5n1PbJf27pKsc0hvs1cZOCFf-uzauBzQ9cqIwi5dhEYuDleraPmNZGBK2GiwvrDDfW1Aq0fkt7wNzNL05gaZaT4lOYjUbzMrGuDWlqAvaLYSXrfkJDe7CjdONp7n7AfmWhkjJ8W3_yqAHs/s1209/20230707_191844.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3QTLAeJAhT8Wmlrc2pnMv3A3PvWEPQWzKFXMCHEanldST5n1PbJf27pKsc0hvs1cZOCFf-uzauBzQ9cqIwi5dhEYuDleraPmNZGBK2GiwvrDDfW1Aq0fkt7wNzNL05gaZaT4lOYjUbzMrGuDWlqAvaLYSXrfkJDe7CjdONp7n7AfmWhkjJ8W3_yqAHs/s320/20230707_191844.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quando è ormai sera lascio, a malincuore, la piazza, quel cuore pulsante di vita e colori e musica, per tornare alla camera. Intanto faccio spesa al mercato, in modo da aver la cena già assicurata. Stasera si va di pasta con tonno e verdure, e, soprattutto, mezza anguria gigante e succosa. L'anguria è una delle forme che la felicità assume.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Nel tragitto trovo la città quasi deserta, perchè nel centro ci son solo negozi o uffici, ma non case. Anche il mercato tace, per lo più, ed è un labirinto cupo di roba accatastata al buio, tra sgocciolii e scalpiccio di ratti, in un odore dolciastro e nauseabondo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Però non ho la sensazione di pericolo e mi sento sufficientemente al sicuro. Anche il nostro host ha detto che Campeche è una città assolutamente tranquilla... E non mi pare un cuor di leone, lui. In onestà finora, qui in Messico, la sensazione è sempre stata questa. Non ci sono stati momenti di disagio tale da temere per la nostra sicurezza. Anzi. Vero è che, finora, siamo passati in zone abbastanza turistiche, dove più dove meno. Ne riparleremo più avanti, in Chiapas, Oaxaca e Città del Messico. L'attenzione resta sempre alta, in ogni caso.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUcKR0Oxlk_uI97sXZHHY_ANMWPOcJ6T95jM2U5PlC7MZU0AGBejzcwqhyFEGkOcOVdV20zryjqgvyytdwrsuTPzB_qA9sk7CwouDCKbMyMTCfV3f5VOO9MDl4VirljNF0O9izrmiOK0NVBaRTnVPKKWKETx68o5OzXeufL1LiNtpv8_gC16mQlk0olA/s1209/20230707_192343.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUcKR0Oxlk_uI97sXZHHY_ANMWPOcJ6T95jM2U5PlC7MZU0AGBejzcwqhyFEGkOcOVdV20zryjqgvyytdwrsuTPzB_qA9sk7CwouDCKbMyMTCfV3f5VOO9MDl4VirljNF0O9izrmiOK0NVBaRTnVPKKWKETx68o5OzXeufL1LiNtpv8_gC16mQlk0olA/s320/20230707_192343.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLuFED8qCO6fJJeZHTWxiIwta4gQz9aZi8MXCD3epZc8wKFA6gb8drcDQj9jY1rv7gFF0gZbfVHBQc2gkpdgEeb8QSppivzdRQmukk2LqQI1Iyr3KCuZIFdWr-9DX7VbFLp5Mj1xjCTmxOHDr3dj9VBAQT-wf6zsj-SksrabiQ-HR5kyjnV-SR7dN3Yyk/s1209/20230707_192848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLuFED8qCO6fJJeZHTWxiIwta4gQz9aZi8MXCD3epZc8wKFA6gb8drcDQj9jY1rv7gFF0gZbfVHBQc2gkpdgEeb8QSppivzdRQmukk2LqQI1Iyr3KCuZIFdWr-9DX7VbFLp5Mj1xjCTmxOHDr3dj9VBAQT-wf6zsj-SksrabiQ-HR5kyjnV-SR7dN3Yyk/s320/20230707_192848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">8/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Campeche-Edznà con mezzo + Edznà-Dzibalchén in bici</div><div style="text-align: left;">50km+76km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">La notte trascorre inquieta e fatico a dormire. Appena prendo sonno, suona la sveglia. Oggi sarà dura pedalare senza aver riposato. Mi consolo con i biscotti Conquistador, che fanno il paio con il Mexquick (Nesquick messicano) marca Carlo V. Ovviamente questi biscotti sono bianchi, fuori e dentro. Sarà una forma silente di vendetta, una rivincita? Mo me te pappo in un solo boccone, conquistador! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqaUhKNeQarWgcLvkCfy2nf-a9MQ_y2E1eCxdIP5y6HenM4rmTiSbk-wTJRBvdPLFmuVCX8Iuj3AJkQl5PqrbTCaZpffZgYZJMj8oxYyXQlIILU5J__l9_GOKwnKtQe35Q_vrrp758vYqIo4V5xAh6w8CDGKqSezXfKuSwZkD1snP0uxYnNqjNJg2UEl4/s1209/20230708_073531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqaUhKNeQarWgcLvkCfy2nf-a9MQ_y2E1eCxdIP5y6HenM4rmTiSbk-wTJRBvdPLFmuVCX8Iuj3AJkQl5PqrbTCaZpffZgYZJMj8oxYyXQlIILU5J__l9_GOKwnKtQe35Q_vrrp758vYqIo4V5xAh6w8CDGKqSezXfKuSwZkD1snP0uxYnNqjNJg2UEl4/s320/20230708_073531.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Alle 8 in punto siamo caricati sul pick up, mentre l'host, Jorge, ci saluta con la manona. Starà pensando che è facile viaggiare in bici così, senza pedalare. Ma giuro, Jorge, è un'eccezione e costa più fatica organizzare questo genere di trasferimento che non pedalare e basta!</div><div><br /></div><div>Facciamo un po' di chiacchiere con l'autista, che ci chiede del viaggio e risponde alle nostre domande sul meteo e sulla qualità delle strade.</div><div>Nel giro di un'oretta siamo a Edznà, e veniamo scaricati insieme alle bici nel parcheggio antistante il sito archeologico. Ci sono pochissimi altri visitatori. tedeschi e francesi attempati, e il clima è fresco ancora. Ci tuffiamo nel mezzo delle rovine, che si trovano immerse nella vegetazione lussureggiante, tra voli di merli blu e corse buffe di iguane enormi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJJLmnY5U8ongrH4qChSKPMF52mUJEcCgjOG1MGBfwGCeihSVa2hfUIC8LPh4o_Yywz50KNTaFBV4h03hM4PBJYzzKO9_Pgy-r4gVxuTCulM5lALy-IM3_7-eLCREpHzr65EiTkCYCERIdbSkgT1o9j5CiQ1w4Fj-QVyF5UxDFb3LRBL7Z-CW31kSAQ8/s1209/20230708_085545.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJJLmnY5U8ongrH4qChSKPMF52mUJEcCgjOG1MGBfwGCeihSVa2hfUIC8LPh4o_Yywz50KNTaFBV4h03hM4PBJYzzKO9_Pgy-r4gVxuTCulM5lALy-IM3_7-eLCREpHzr65EiTkCYCERIdbSkgT1o9j5CiQ1w4Fj-QVyF5UxDFb3LRBL7Z-CW31kSAQ8/s320/20230708_085545.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjiGgyDNFKqgEv05Zofn41G2DknDHHf1_mONfLKa_W_SyM1PG2nXnMIqUeQULd_0LNP32bV320XDpqu2T3iAxGTltLhMTLMXIPPADtER9QmVWTdgyu21pa_aGayyvp7aAOOoivmMXn3QmjIwP0KIfmA7m7-ZeXa7_02Hm_OgY8TN0pIOd-6Vyw9wBTt8o/s1209/20230708_085556.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjiGgyDNFKqgEv05Zofn41G2DknDHHf1_mONfLKa_W_SyM1PG2nXnMIqUeQULd_0LNP32bV320XDpqu2T3iAxGTltLhMTLMXIPPADtER9QmVWTdgyu21pa_aGayyvp7aAOOoivmMXn3QmjIwP0KIfmA7m7-ZeXa7_02Hm_OgY8TN0pIOd-6Vyw9wBTt8o/s320/20230708_085556.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuK3PbO4Oa-IIrRfws47dIRpM4a27QrBVNDU45KNtpxImYxj5yO6BS8sPL8T5WKLziu-YkGGlRJ6nb6f64rFVvMdJRM3g0--Iqo5YAct0XNwdB2pCFRaqC-RdR2MnMzhdHN2AlhqhuzPAPPl7QqKA8CWta2ikSVN-aoX2SDtzZmOy4xQli8LQiVLS4zfE/s1209/20230708_085751.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuK3PbO4Oa-IIrRfws47dIRpM4a27QrBVNDU45KNtpxImYxj5yO6BS8sPL8T5WKLziu-YkGGlRJ6nb6f64rFVvMdJRM3g0--Iqo5YAct0XNwdB2pCFRaqC-RdR2MnMzhdHN2AlhqhuzPAPPl7QqKA8CWta2ikSVN-aoX2SDtzZmOy4xQli8LQiVLS4zfE/s320/20230708_085751.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Questa città, che un tempo si estendeva su una superficie di oltre 17kmq, fu costruita da una società altamente stratificata, che fiorì qui dal 600 a.C. al XV secolo d.C. (perchè la città fu poi abbandonata resta un mistero). In questo lungo arco di tempo, la popolazione edificò ben 20 complessi in diversi stili architettonici, con tanto di ingegnosa rete per la raccolta delle acque, che qui sono stagnanti nella stagione delle piogge, e l'irrigazione. La maggior parte delle rovine visibili risalgono a un periodo compreso tra 550 e 810 d.C. Il sito, dimenticato e inghiottito dalla foresta, è stato riscoperto per caso nel 196 da alcuni contadini.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Edznà significa "casa degli Itzàe" (gli stessi di Chichén Itza), in riferimento al clan di origine chontal maya che la dominò. I governanti registrarono tutti gli eventi significativi su stele di pietra, 30 delle quali ritrovate.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15t-OjbtCx-WCyVE8Oi-jIh33HmdD3Gi9F_mN683NFKh9xe_fXu_nFYlAgncn-Ds8VLq_zYYy9FgALIUsOGgOpmh_EOdlBynJblY23w3peOVAxg4U556fYKun7h1ncHnwRjbCywt9A57-SQsCszg7Yczs9w4g2D55BjBBr60aAPl55CDVpRHhVinEvO4/s1209/20230708_085814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15t-OjbtCx-WCyVE8Oi-jIh33HmdD3Gi9F_mN683NFKh9xe_fXu_nFYlAgncn-Ds8VLq_zYYy9FgALIUsOGgOpmh_EOdlBynJblY23w3peOVAxg4U556fYKun7h1ncHnwRjbCywt9A57-SQsCszg7Yczs9w4g2D55BjBBr60aAPl55CDVpRHhVinEvO4/s320/20230708_085814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JujtjM3tPqV33WkA8JDCizkPPzTkwMuX9ZNLrrgMzM8txRGDdBdQOw9AQ1OLaGcetZdNKxrmbk_4or1XHjAnlIF9E2RDtZYpTQsAubHpToPhVsb3pJGlcOz374lQ89jOGLtUDsKAMs0p2gCDy7o_8G6vUAyJR7HBRruFJhIITGxi9eaY9-YGh-yDG2I/s1209/20230708_090027.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JujtjM3tPqV33WkA8JDCizkPPzTkwMuX9ZNLrrgMzM8txRGDdBdQOw9AQ1OLaGcetZdNKxrmbk_4or1XHjAnlIF9E2RDtZYpTQsAubHpToPhVsb3pJGlcOz374lQ89jOGLtUDsKAMs0p2gCDy7o_8G6vUAyJR7HBRruFJhIITGxi9eaY9-YGh-yDG2I/s320/20230708_090027.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTyF6FCvrk3bGOvCngL2zowPRsrW_BeLJJXXrbvhsgtrYwXNzU1pYEQOPrR16fqHZMqCoFhFZicMP9hNoaoVhA_-t46BOA1UAZ1H-OLsIg_uqS-KxAswQBpKbC8LXmirHf4grv1xghWbo08wdQMTM_XqCb1ZstUbgvWYXZ7Cc_bBPSRRmzjgwEiQEZtA/s1210/20230708_090212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbTyF6FCvrk3bGOvCngL2zowPRsrW_BeLJJXXrbvhsgtrYwXNzU1pYEQOPrR16fqHZMqCoFhFZicMP9hNoaoVhA_-t46BOA1UAZ1H-OLsIg_uqS-KxAswQBpKbC8LXmirHf4grv1xghWbo08wdQMTM_XqCb1ZstUbgvWYXZ7Cc_bBPSRRmzjgwEiQEZtA/s320/20230708_090212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dalla biglietteria parte un sentiero di mezzo kilometro che porta alla piattaforma dei coltelli, un sacbé e la plaza principal. Si tratta di un imponente spazio pubblico di 160x100m circondato da templi. Quello più maestoso è la Gran Acropolis, piattaforma rialzata con, sopra, diversi edifici, tra cui il tempio più importante, in stile puuc. Si tratta della quarta ricostruzione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqWn6QGACH-DL_T1yYS0tGzp0xrIv4QYEl7pzUyywHyobnt8AwW8j8FSGmhqsmad-kNUqS70h4ibJUGu1vLX1FpwVP9SPKrTkwxkbVcIN_H0dG5YXTNW5Bulw7KPdjczYb4Fd_IhtImLQ-kh4YhcRwg-Mkk7fdW1gtWJIH57-REEuPxUDpcilEZUyIkgM/s1209/20230708_090317.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqWn6QGACH-DL_T1yYS0tGzp0xrIv4QYEl7pzUyywHyobnt8AwW8j8FSGmhqsmad-kNUqS70h4ibJUGu1vLX1FpwVP9SPKrTkwxkbVcIN_H0dG5YXTNW5Bulw7KPdjczYb4Fd_IhtImLQ-kh4YhcRwg-Mkk7fdW1gtWJIH57-REEuPxUDpcilEZUyIkgM/s320/20230708_090317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpKeQ1lZoH1C5KupL-UDhJN5nHECcO_h8RK95oQ_rxJF6KiAP6tR1BMY1NIRAe3QQQv6JiAKQFg91cN-gT_CAqwfytcgN8xcp8dgw8updoiIprMi_Zcz29JB-fzCkOJJZLfMaeb7sca24VIDBSiNGAS7NQxNFmpYGuuIT_mMWtlHt5V25JkIN5tBa55o/s1209/20230708_090337.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpKeQ1lZoH1C5KupL-UDhJN5nHECcO_h8RK95oQ_rxJF6KiAP6tR1BMY1NIRAe3QQQv6JiAKQFg91cN-gT_CAqwfytcgN8xcp8dgw8updoiIprMi_Zcz29JB-fzCkOJJZLfMaeb7sca24VIDBSiNGAS7NQxNFmpYGuuIT_mMWtlHt5V25JkIN5tBa55o/s320/20230708_090337.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6d9PuiU3_KL7CppgG67EvqvySL_ph3Rx2Y--KmLhVBAIz1M5xab5q7lXCtM-z3DwBBlI3VH_buqy999Fxvy2Q0LlJW6q3_lxvqIBlwFLRkzGDrqja7QtTfBeg6P-Soe2ihHLdiUv0nl5RjI3Bo-70sRHh9u4UT67otiycQoPt1Lbo6Cs2hh7n2WJjTI/s1209/20230708_090413.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6d9PuiU3_KL7CppgG67EvqvySL_ph3Rx2Y--KmLhVBAIz1M5xab5q7lXCtM-z3DwBBlI3VH_buqy999Fxvy2Q0LlJW6q3_lxvqIBlwFLRkzGDrqja7QtTfBeg6P-Soe2ihHLdiUv0nl5RjI3Bo-70sRHh9u4UT67otiycQoPt1Lbo6Cs2hh7n2WJjTI/s320/20230708_090413.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQe7SgmSDpDviywLEonYUs3L38ZvBCmWX7uVFHpkzoqQVMlc9FwJA6_9FIu_EM9WB0G0Cpk2qZKCZvw388-4Mg_WSbC493sLXcXj6NlyoWrDyQbWTnmzO_WAtNl2oX58ZZan4svh_QFDIT6qslzgpJPczTOkH46Rtnrdqzd51zewDfiqCY49oEQcFWUmM/s1209/20230708_090439.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQe7SgmSDpDviywLEonYUs3L38ZvBCmWX7uVFHpkzoqQVMlc9FwJA6_9FIu_EM9WB0G0Cpk2qZKCZvw388-4Mg_WSbC493sLXcXj6NlyoWrDyQbWTnmzO_WAtNl2oX58ZZan4svh_QFDIT6qslzgpJPczTOkH46Rtnrdqzd51zewDfiqCY49oEQcFWUmM/s320/20230708_090439.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr--9SGQob7ZS1m54Rk4jGuvBLYSbh-jSQBPPXayTw18XXt3CCAkbknaxCv6nHUSlKYvn3jTgZRzTpqMfD4iZh9sQyJN3slf1uSNaitT-DDmUdgfgS8W5uDL5la0JRHfZncZMiMMiaciaXzurWUhPo9hmOphMR_6P4tg2hcZoHe2J7TSOh84DrBIYNURI/s1209/20230708_090542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr--9SGQob7ZS1m54Rk4jGuvBLYSbh-jSQBPPXayTw18XXt3CCAkbknaxCv6nHUSlKYvn3jTgZRzTpqMfD4iZh9sQyJN3slf1uSNaitT-DDmUdgfgS8W5uDL5la0JRHfZncZMiMMiaciaXzurWUhPo9hmOphMR_6P4tg2hcZoHe2J7TSOh84DrBIYNURI/s320/20230708_090542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4pDa5XazAsciMmmpVRIzuUKJaaKczuwdKMWD8RajxRu9o880tsfo_z8bURYelUwbINmn1kZJAR-xgZHjYjTTNQJ6ItZ1gsgxFXnHsUWBPyoNeERzBeNk1pSiN7Ehm61qoJgq6JigLDq1V4dFjbj0w323USu2woCs83Q2cKHUgONo_eJI_G3G84k19byw/s1209/20230708_090548.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4pDa5XazAsciMmmpVRIzuUKJaaKczuwdKMWD8RajxRu9o880tsfo_z8bURYelUwbINmn1kZJAR-xgZHjYjTTNQJ6ItZ1gsgxFXnHsUWBPyoNeERzBeNk1pSiN7Ehm61qoJgq6JigLDq1V4dFjbj0w323USu2woCs83Q2cKHUgONo_eJI_G3G84k19byw/s320/20230708_090548.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4siESiQKkhB_DoTeuFvSmbKqDAcA3HmQYsxr6QBeOgJpnrwrU7jbssI99F963LaUVSksIKn3LxjK6JfRYily1z3RYQDGvvjscVcZoxKIKl8KQWaiy4Jdzw4_R4yo9tyCNF39Hd-eLedDsxg_qvwqujuJsJkavZo6HfKv2t750jRUe3qLFKvNxY3Osxfc/s1209/20230708_090627.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4siESiQKkhB_DoTeuFvSmbKqDAcA3HmQYsxr6QBeOgJpnrwrU7jbssI99F963LaUVSksIKn3LxjK6JfRYily1z3RYQDGvvjscVcZoxKIKl8KQWaiy4Jdzw4_R4yo9tyCNF39Hd-eLedDsxg_qvwqujuJsJkavZo6HfKv2t750jRUe3qLFKvNxY3Osxfc/s320/20230708_090627.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37zcNb6aYrh_2x34KN0L0CV9L86P2Ns-h8_dXkVBJoTL3gwAg7Ogb5EsSSwS_7gBIZDIK78KD8vXdFcsiwZvqgjyklH3f7_I0PX3CKd4fOmpaiDpna2RpT1_5M8YPT2OXR52Jm8rlRBf82ESkNWyReDZo6pt0Zo_PrNeYwbYtA9QXFsZhY3vhYooMKwo/s1209/20230708_090737.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37zcNb6aYrh_2x34KN0L0CV9L86P2Ns-h8_dXkVBJoTL3gwAg7Ogb5EsSSwS_7gBIZDIK78KD8vXdFcsiwZvqgjyklH3f7_I0PX3CKd4fOmpaiDpna2RpT1_5M8YPT2OXR52Jm8rlRBf82ESkNWyReDZo6pt0Zo_PrNeYwbYtA9QXFsZhY3vhYooMKwo/s320/20230708_090737.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKZcvvltrj2IBZ_Izsxigb2Cm6GjdJWfElUaPJgatEutnw7VBlp24I6xLR4nR2wGYhQEWaLb0_hEu86n4y6pioL32SJB8kRlZFJl-luQe5xpq6nZtRwFCWlMKASEQsRSbEt5zCdeYli89phq_R4CjHOfo8qSLVDBrFSFdMA23wRuB8QLWFWNypAePjaew/s1209/20230708_091306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKZcvvltrj2IBZ_Izsxigb2Cm6GjdJWfElUaPJgatEutnw7VBlp24I6xLR4nR2wGYhQEWaLb0_hEu86n4y6pioL32SJB8kRlZFJl-luQe5xpq6nZtRwFCWlMKASEQsRSbEt5zCdeYli89phq_R4CjHOfo8qSLVDBrFSFdMA23wRuB8QLWFWNypAePjaew/s320/20230708_091306.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">A breve distanza si trova il pezzo forte del sito: il templo de los mascarones. Questa struttura conserva due maschere in stucco colorato con le fattezze della divinità del sole che sorge, sul lato orientale, e che tramonta, su quello occidentale. I volti hanno mutilazioni dentali, accentuato strabismo e grandi orecchini, tutte caratteristiche associate all'aristocrazia e, in generale, simboli di bellezza per i maya (non starò a commentare i canoni estetici e la loro mutevolezza, nello spazio e nel tempo. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTIVYD-RlpHffaJ7A5yeHbk0PXStxRTPkJ7m8oymay63UD1mv__HsDGgdQQ8lF3BsPbGTWG-6j5YheogmGBrdbR6r_NBqXJGc5_Fk_WQT3_RM6wJfCQqjiWv-BBbPtPlqqbiqhHSg7q1CjWgEptbCIaRayjwXv0LmE_57bxfoidlkSeurwpkxfJIlwF8/s1209/20230708_091601.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTIVYD-RlpHffaJ7A5yeHbk0PXStxRTPkJ7m8oymay63UD1mv__HsDGgdQQ8lF3BsPbGTWG-6j5YheogmGBrdbR6r_NBqXJGc5_Fk_WQT3_RM6wJfCQqjiWv-BBbPtPlqqbiqhHSg7q1CjWgEptbCIaRayjwXv0LmE_57bxfoidlkSeurwpkxfJIlwF8/s320/20230708_091601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDvP3OZVwzsUmpOGamcsf8kfd1TirAFiMU8SS_8aHy3jI5iL2kdhYFWoCMftUqGRHrojMBc1JlyJHiBfUyq0gHKy6LrcvZwbzVdFHFC7pa0MiV5A4rI1o3bevKKAJCIEzAJlqwf1jw5sc-xnlMJhleUKMBRdEJYaQxoKQ9ApMh1x-cnxJi4NWGP-C8c8/s1209/20230708_091635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDvP3OZVwzsUmpOGamcsf8kfd1TirAFiMU8SS_8aHy3jI5iL2kdhYFWoCMftUqGRHrojMBc1JlyJHiBfUyq0gHKy6LrcvZwbzVdFHFC7pa0MiV5A4rI1o3bevKKAJCIEzAJlqwf1jw5sc-xnlMJhleUKMBRdEJYaQxoKQ9ApMh1x-cnxJi4NWGP-C8c8/s320/20230708_091635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9rgkC3h3Nq95hYY-DUzG0nscIoQWsSuhnJvNHJ-2Fmf7axyRNPEoxbZsqII2HgUnXsX9OWdLJ86lokGDZ8Auxelhb7gJ-LTaqUVmUk3LPrXwXxsZcbJV7BWC3psaz4_cmFiwvY5QVGpYxpeJ8CD4IBAxahiFhURT1gRJjdV2PQgEGMbJZK7MqWelOKc/s1209/20230708_091957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9rgkC3h3Nq95hYY-DUzG0nscIoQWsSuhnJvNHJ-2Fmf7axyRNPEoxbZsqII2HgUnXsX9OWdLJ86lokGDZ8Auxelhb7gJ-LTaqUVmUk3LPrXwXxsZcbJV7BWC3psaz4_cmFiwvY5QVGpYxpeJ8CD4IBAxahiFhURT1gRJjdV2PQgEGMbJZK7MqWelOKc/s320/20230708_091957.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHnlxDZIFmBAehBtYoDNNhCmgMUggSjFP1MVTOPW2OaDFQ7gPtiGBd-mCIXO3PxBcSy8lf0HcJVesT9LifmfARQsulEf1_lRgjtoI3xhQ4wjMGGXrcindQpKeH507UKm3DY-Zz_n1QP3xkdamwqbFLH4p1Iw_vniwoXrOkSMIg5Kd7GdEsPJrLvrLxE0/s1209/20230708_092127.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHnlxDZIFmBAehBtYoDNNhCmgMUggSjFP1MVTOPW2OaDFQ7gPtiGBd-mCIXO3PxBcSy8lf0HcJVesT9LifmfARQsulEf1_lRgjtoI3xhQ4wjMGGXrcindQpKeH507UKm3DY-Zz_n1QP3xkdamwqbFLH4p1Iw_vniwoXrOkSMIg5Kd7GdEsPJrLvrLxE0/s320/20230708_092127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQJehQbcVhlBr2qe3XK6RQKJ3cutSZW073eSgAbzdyRDA8aNtiLnDJRiS3u9bq0oII9FGjpuZZegc_ghcVGZlvyUMw3zSzpey-ByWQhusJeFdvlkC3an-015rpsltaWESoxR0vMt1Cr6HADcOEtpuwJf5lLkhWsTPQw-up7LYMXheicH_az4VGeU4cnY/s1209/20230708_092339.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQJehQbcVhlBr2qe3XK6RQKJ3cutSZW073eSgAbzdyRDA8aNtiLnDJRiS3u9bq0oII9FGjpuZZegc_ghcVGZlvyUMw3zSzpey-ByWQhusJeFdvlkC3an-015rpsltaWESoxR0vMt1Cr6HADcOEtpuwJf5lLkhWsTPQw-up7LYMXheicH_az4VGeU4cnY/s320/20230708_092339.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCc7O4048CqI_H6qv3dsVuB0GjjaCjegeAJxur9dNJH1SQyzmt8O2VtANaRVqyjsmBK7ORI0tlywUD9ASBMEFjPwNpYxbrB0ap279-gKJNhVhpY8hXZS3gZo791jDGx_Td3hVBvKwqnO1_BqZcMERK3hHJIhRQPJoG8TBcs4d2A3UXqjWjJzQjrVAbo8/s1209/20230708_092628.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCc7O4048CqI_H6qv3dsVuB0GjjaCjegeAJxur9dNJH1SQyzmt8O2VtANaRVqyjsmBK7ORI0tlywUD9ASBMEFjPwNpYxbrB0ap279-gKJNhVhpY8hXZS3gZo791jDGx_Td3hVBvKwqnO1_BqZcMERK3hHJIhRQPJoG8TBcs4d2A3UXqjWjJzQjrVAbo8/s320/20230708_092628.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOlonFWyWoOiXmV0-1-GvhHsT67sCjKPXCQK4BbeguAhZI-xRnE5Pmg-YdHUqsUdt0VzN5PUxG0zAQQDAuqkJc8GMNrPRMvMx8k16o-Fi19EgBwTkRA5_P_dmjv2bnh0KQaKTvmjW6VLhEWwp2MbEMSuuDBVOss7A9nuJmW-Si7C32IQEuytDK5iHmWlQ/s1209/20230708_092905.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOlonFWyWoOiXmV0-1-GvhHsT67sCjKPXCQK4BbeguAhZI-xRnE5Pmg-YdHUqsUdt0VzN5PUxG0zAQQDAuqkJc8GMNrPRMvMx8k16o-Fi19EgBwTkRA5_P_dmjv2bnh0KQaKTvmjW6VLhEWwp2MbEMSuuDBVOss7A9nuJmW-Si7C32IQEuytDK5iHmWlQ/s320/20230708_092905.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqKiP-yCCy0Q0pNrrXCu_ZSsCtUSXR4OALz4qTE-KKeW0n0iOsLCFbCWS1ZuGr3zpT8XSOFnKaG2zvGt0ybsESX9NOCOnowfrbgm7Z-DSe4VNMBuoNpFT3_qS6J4lBRsfiOXnGEJOUsuMsP7KyKudaGBE1hc3mbjbUMafjYwvR5ZL6rcFA2cGzVHYjfM/s1209/20230708_092949.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqKiP-yCCy0Q0pNrrXCu_ZSsCtUSXR4OALz4qTE-KKeW0n0iOsLCFbCWS1ZuGr3zpT8XSOFnKaG2zvGt0ybsESX9NOCOnowfrbgm7Z-DSe4VNMBuoNpFT3_qS6J4lBRsfiOXnGEJOUsuMsP7KyKudaGBE1hc3mbjbUMafjYwvR5ZL6rcFA2cGzVHYjfM/s320/20230708_092949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODJdccAUAwS6e8MKgcogyaw4NEf3CQzegLsjrL7s24zmvAQYYQS9moF_eZvNhBKRSc9WZNhNox3mmO1xOGwYpXhSYScOUMsRC4M0sfHD7hu5FtgjtkLYSvrLCv82mlI6A8ffOoizSAsJ8oNeUkRC-m0y-hQwnwUj5VM3LO4wMOTNJDcyUr1IrHlceh00/s1209/20230708_093016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODJdccAUAwS6e8MKgcogyaw4NEf3CQzegLsjrL7s24zmvAQYYQS9moF_eZvNhBKRSc9WZNhNox3mmO1xOGwYpXhSYScOUMsRC4M0sfHD7hu5FtgjtkLYSvrLCv82mlI6A8ffOoizSAsJ8oNeUkRC-m0y-hQwnwUj5VM3LO4wMOTNJDcyUr1IrHlceh00/s320/20230708_093016.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Altro edificio notevole è la Nohochnà, la grande casa, dove si raccoglievano i tributi e si amministrava la giustizia. Mi colpisce che su molti cartelli esplicativi sia specificato che qui lavorano rifugiati guatemaltechi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTiCk1vMyQ4jVka0vKXZQidFws1eO-_txS6ws_N64gaV7X3JAbAy_ygNYxfMAyD-uLM-SiVCQJSOYwq8BMOrz-4bShXhm7xpd6pYzkba750Pc6ldPWLSGLAMkeuzqdNjqjjGM8Bpej20E1AONyoL5ic6_FKBIPwLRXOa6TH_O46CIaUC2zFlhJuH_03E4/s1209/20230708_093106.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTiCk1vMyQ4jVka0vKXZQidFws1eO-_txS6ws_N64gaV7X3JAbAy_ygNYxfMAyD-uLM-SiVCQJSOYwq8BMOrz-4bShXhm7xpd6pYzkba750Pc6ldPWLSGLAMkeuzqdNjqjjGM8Bpej20E1AONyoL5ic6_FKBIPwLRXOa6TH_O46CIaUC2zFlhJuH_03E4/s320/20230708_093106.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQP53xz3YjZjJOS_5mwVNhGuISqo-cNd1eR3ANa6bMncSr1xmhZw9IvHV9mMTIsJzJce-eqkQVMgeDTt7YBiIxBSAOhSI8p1nyrSL3uRCchUo6HP6XSqkycXsXlcbRcg6z_g9AgKKKlvB6uiRsorEPcLNMj2V4P5qH7ZwzoAiEDpDxQPDIdt2CusikkU/s1209/20230708_093248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQP53xz3YjZjJOS_5mwVNhGuISqo-cNd1eR3ANa6bMncSr1xmhZw9IvHV9mMTIsJzJce-eqkQVMgeDTt7YBiIxBSAOhSI8p1nyrSL3uRCchUo6HP6XSqkycXsXlcbRcg6z_g9AgKKKlvB6uiRsorEPcLNMj2V4P5qH7ZwzoAiEDpDxQPDIdt2CusikkU/s320/20230708_093248.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGXUfH_M9-hpTEmI98VpjRSiCoZl50igruX86XOX0U-F_G5BDUTwVKCCGe1HCLPypHxGItLfFBmfiStuc3KzPEp1kqDm_yqDXOCIJebl7pQ0fPhbLDI96CwEknvRnCkwHPsMgS8uds-latC7X5aGWNtMuPxwDJpwBt4d5LI8ls4nkFvjF9qJFhVKGsKE/s1209/20230708_093849.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGXUfH_M9-hpTEmI98VpjRSiCoZl50igruX86XOX0U-F_G5BDUTwVKCCGe1HCLPypHxGItLfFBmfiStuc3KzPEp1kqDm_yqDXOCIJebl7pQ0fPhbLDI96CwEknvRnCkwHPsMgS8uds-latC7X5aGWNtMuPxwDJpwBt4d5LI8ls4nkFvjF9qJFhVKGsKE/s320/20230708_093849.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wlQHg_ZJ5vBYPHBWz4CB9zcZXPPOndUIQxEGXbvfxcdgL7YvxPCFBSXEeO2JMi1jVRTT6yoRNdhTIvcNouUXdhisYlqiyeM98Cgnvqb4hWEws8om9Bjog5Ks1hc9yDP_PJUqULqGNzTHB9OwcvsUX3bgjy3GFw5vOxrQj5yMZhp2pmXV4H_g3UbOCTs/s1209/20230708_094126.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wlQHg_ZJ5vBYPHBWz4CB9zcZXPPOndUIQxEGXbvfxcdgL7YvxPCFBSXEeO2JMi1jVRTT6yoRNdhTIvcNouUXdhisYlqiyeM98Cgnvqb4hWEws8om9Bjog5Ks1hc9yDP_PJUqULqGNzTHB9OwcvsUX3bgjy3GFw5vOxrQj5yMZhp2pmXV4H_g3UbOCTs/s320/20230708_094126.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finita la visita torniamo fuori dove abbiamo lasciato le bici. Il tempo di riempire le borracce e siamo pronti a pedalare. Ci attendono solo 76km su strade secondarie, ma il vento è teso e si preannuncia una tappa comunque tosta. Per fortuna l'autista, prima, sconvolto dalle nostre imprese cicloavventurose, ci ha regalato dei sacchettini di riccioli di mais fritti ed enchilladi, tipici della regione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVwI_4UPk7gMLzWPraL9RlBOudG5TfiCgT0X_7Xe2QIY6mK08VUzbYty7U9mUX_ZG7hN5hC6gqi4dHc44qH57ClaNNVZq9dgErGA1g550sGnkO8lY4zQyvNHrj-yWCjPazleuR2mxoOOvdSkR-krzqhz1N-ibonZOH-A4hEbf8JRu2UJrVBFtO9IH9RYU/s1210/20230708_100521.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVwI_4UPk7gMLzWPraL9RlBOudG5TfiCgT0X_7Xe2QIY6mK08VUzbYty7U9mUX_ZG7hN5hC6gqi4dHc44qH57ClaNNVZq9dgErGA1g550sGnkO8lY4zQyvNHrj-yWCjPazleuR2mxoOOvdSkR-krzqhz1N-ibonZOH-A4hEbf8JRu2UJrVBFtO9IH9RYU/s320/20230708_100521.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIC2NWRe6QGwO764OHMFT0YLm16IJRha5SR828K5T796mKYnwiaU4ZFF7IsEKcFgLJRcsGv0TQYRHzJ5ED-OcGcfLMnOT8wj-xIOAPXIY3MrL_QwDPJqMebmm_jOPh2hbLQg4bwDm3RIUgseHPGMqb80fAfyausnie9nHC6L7g6lkQeaK0v61JRyWTaXM/s1209/20230708_100843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIC2NWRe6QGwO764OHMFT0YLm16IJRha5SR828K5T796mKYnwiaU4ZFF7IsEKcFgLJRcsGv0TQYRHzJ5ED-OcGcfLMnOT8wj-xIOAPXIY3MrL_QwDPJqMebmm_jOPh2hbLQg4bwDm3RIUgseHPGMqb80fAfyausnie9nHC6L7g6lkQeaK0v61JRyWTaXM/s320/20230708_100843.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Iniziamo a spingere sui pedali ma il vento ci rallenta. Non superiamo i 15km/h, ma nemmeno nei momenti più felici. In più la strada inizia a essere abbastanza scassata, con buche profonde e mucchi di sabbia. Qui non è certo zona per turisti. Passiamo per una serie sempre più rada di pueblos a vocazione agricola e pastorale, ma senza le aziende ben organizzate dei giorni scorsi. Qui parliamo di orticelli secchi e quattro capre che pascolano nei giardinetti pubblici. Passiamo da Alfredo V. Bonfil, Pich, San Luciano e numerosi ranch.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbdvkdvLzdgTcCYCdo61Ib10-v3mu4gdomiGVoadKHWDe9hwWWOo547TDuSeLcfF_2g7wv7CDkJ2jc_HMlW7yyfS-0mLw54gcZIYk1GpDQCBvy-rj1-ijnLRoV4zqpqDMPloNPSJK41lSPBO35zH3q5gBScC2Bo1Tn6b2ZcaT-iqtK4SBAtAWifeHk2Go/s1209/20230708_105459.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbdvkdvLzdgTcCYCdo61Ib10-v3mu4gdomiGVoadKHWDe9hwWWOo547TDuSeLcfF_2g7wv7CDkJ2jc_HMlW7yyfS-0mLw54gcZIYk1GpDQCBvy-rj1-ijnLRoV4zqpqDMPloNPSJK41lSPBO35zH3q5gBScC2Bo1Tn6b2ZcaT-iqtK4SBAtAWifeHk2Go/s320/20230708_105459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp7g9Xk3BvZDl1meCifRFIdDJMVNU1TwAE31mBFfANIUuyipwiI2pA58p2TvKyK5Hm2prFIvdPG534S1NqzG3bwatAK_Qy8LPUuROsItKHIqvvqKpyFMXaHu4JUv-TJxmQRMSUzuJZwXvgb1dWeLuAFPtl2cIW7CVQap1r9DQ-sy-T0Yk5UGzL1VuNCw/s1209/20230708_105501.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp7g9Xk3BvZDl1meCifRFIdDJMVNU1TwAE31mBFfANIUuyipwiI2pA58p2TvKyK5Hm2prFIvdPG534S1NqzG3bwatAK_Qy8LPUuROsItKHIqvvqKpyFMXaHu4JUv-TJxmQRMSUzuJZwXvgb1dWeLuAFPtl2cIW7CVQap1r9DQ-sy-T0Yk5UGzL1VuNCw/s320/20230708_105501.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiueA2Jke5eGv-fn2SNd_1-M5A1hnK_ePBYorI-yic8s1R4N0AuqRCxBB5zAOs06Y0eMLNeBYqRIoH4WJymnLBnfUytUESE-qolZ3xr_6z7uSvM-ZOaCJG9EVTxPY4jQC9_yn12xKQxMplxvbcG3L3vnujAlcShr5XCBzcR_ybbKAJEQcz47OLvJXq-7J8/s1209/20230708_120124.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiueA2Jke5eGv-fn2SNd_1-M5A1hnK_ePBYorI-yic8s1R4N0AuqRCxBB5zAOs06Y0eMLNeBYqRIoH4WJymnLBnfUytUESE-qolZ3xr_6z7uSvM-ZOaCJG9EVTxPY4jQC9_yn12xKQxMplxvbcG3L3vnujAlcShr5XCBzcR_ybbKAJEQcz47OLvJXq-7J8/s320/20230708_120124.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioao9ZhUf91Qy6IyQXpgoj3VKpf5tSU2-2BOFpJ0fRXmoamtJRgHYL9D1mO9DUZSRDMj2f9Nfrfg5W4BzdhaqAquIkBBUp7Fov9mEpq6YOKg4gUbd0lj2wXlqmG4f-nh_VpebCxz0dUeB-lXLga49b08wUFWd7YnmT8SfPRa9Zm7y6ryF9iB3PGjInVkc/s1209/20230708_124008.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioao9ZhUf91Qy6IyQXpgoj3VKpf5tSU2-2BOFpJ0fRXmoamtJRgHYL9D1mO9DUZSRDMj2f9Nfrfg5W4BzdhaqAquIkBBUp7Fov9mEpq6YOKg4gUbd0lj2wXlqmG4f-nh_VpebCxz0dUeB-lXLga49b08wUFWd7YnmT8SfPRa9Zm7y6ryF9iB3PGjInVkc/s320/20230708_124008.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAgQGLS6wUE5kVI9p9jI4gBOpRr3JFq5zB3fMf-Sf3A8WKAUMCds4fT1iZGmG-8bmS2Ue_xqnvdsh5elm1U49U0WAGrFLvmXfMPAZ6JmY1TQcLRpkKFx0vcqpCBththNOFXfBB8X_qYFywK5BmBUXOt9eo_HXhWsqCuBsPq4tf47JAdwDbUl2qLlIzFlI/s1209/20230708_124011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAgQGLS6wUE5kVI9p9jI4gBOpRr3JFq5zB3fMf-Sf3A8WKAUMCds4fT1iZGmG-8bmS2Ue_xqnvdsh5elm1U49U0WAGrFLvmXfMPAZ6JmY1TQcLRpkKFx0vcqpCBththNOFXfBB8X_qYFywK5BmBUXOt9eo_HXhWsqCuBsPq4tf47JAdwDbUl2qLlIzFlI/s320/20230708_124011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Improvvisamente il cielo, già velato, si imbroncia e diventa cupo. Si sentono i primi tuoni e, in lontananza, ma nemmeno troppo, di distinguono colonne di pioggia come cortine spesse. Sta arrivando anche oggi il diluvio. Ci affrettiamo a raggiungere il paesino di Los Laureles, e quando arriviamo siamo già abbastanza zuppi. Nel pueblo, inaspettatamente, troviamo l'iradiddio di gente, casino, tendoni e venditori. Tutti al riparo dalla pioggia, ognuno dove ha trovato. Ma è palese che ci sia in corso qualcosa </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYSFMtfurPgYSc9l2Zlq0zxqOFPSZq4Kk5U2JaYAD8DAkD60OiEGJJHkij0v6J-QpP_busjKdMOjmPk4L1Dj8GjR5OkdSYh4o6uB3EALPW2hSkIUo4VNnbebmWJ0KfvW0CedmqfEh8wgjjIoIGrYaJPEFZvwk4tiSF_C0yVYjpPdRo_2Zq5mg-Aeczc0/s1209/20230708_124432.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYSFMtfurPgYSc9l2Zlq0zxqOFPSZq4Kk5U2JaYAD8DAkD60OiEGJJHkij0v6J-QpP_busjKdMOjmPk4L1Dj8GjR5OkdSYh4o6uB3EALPW2hSkIUo4VNnbebmWJ0KfvW0CedmqfEh8wgjjIoIGrYaJPEFZvwk4tiSF_C0yVYjpPdRo_2Zq5mg-Aeczc0/s320/20230708_124432.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkHjX6oz5RpaXTZs17A_iFUboQjJSQ6S8TZOA3o9CYCz_0_fhSjbtXe_dj8mu6e5b4cSubwujKCRiituf5hvMbH8fQxs80BjRCtU6kQgrlFAkx4Sj0qVO9nWfD7CRdhl5sE3zZDkiKEwdROp43kO_6om805i1tv3SeBCS80vvvFrcxU_qBukHLlWhPMDQ/s979/20230708_124501.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkHjX6oz5RpaXTZs17A_iFUboQjJSQ6S8TZOA3o9CYCz_0_fhSjbtXe_dj8mu6e5b4cSubwujKCRiituf5hvMbH8fQxs80BjRCtU6kQgrlFAkx4Sj0qVO9nWfD7CRdhl5sE3zZDkiKEwdROp43kO_6om805i1tv3SeBCS80vvvFrcxU_qBukHLlWhPMDQ/s320/20230708_124501.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-YKAWLP1PDKXrbrSQ97YmZHuzmoh7paPs90-B1K7eC7VKfivM7PkoPQvciicpnAv9uBS5Hvrh9iO56PG1mevnm7_T04jv0HsCVKTDkoEUxQIkyUTqb2G2o-eE791u3jY1fz7uim70aRMWSoDgN_rCEHAPKVtrMABxGinpnYjaVvQqGDU9-2b8z0yOKTM/s979/20230708_124509.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-YKAWLP1PDKXrbrSQ97YmZHuzmoh7paPs90-B1K7eC7VKfivM7PkoPQvciicpnAv9uBS5Hvrh9iO56PG1mevnm7_T04jv0HsCVKTDkoEUxQIkyUTqb2G2o-eE791u3jY1fz7uim70aRMWSoDgN_rCEHAPKVtrMABxGinpnYjaVvQqGDU9-2b8z0yOKTM/s320/20230708_124509.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhGA0GSyeI5-5fKlSpKYKsrZCpkVg5648CHoXYsfH4rJVMAreXUd3uL8FIjEyIXDMajjSWwI0u-dijnK5DZ7eU9EloqQyyHJdKLqRIxseDQyamIxXNWUqeJ0QIveRkMdKn9D8QrbSLVgZGRqtJ9_FDq6oYZuieMvoE1-M0ae6piWdlb6HWisHt9E6q9w/s1209/20230708_124520.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUhGA0GSyeI5-5fKlSpKYKsrZCpkVg5648CHoXYsfH4rJVMAreXUd3uL8FIjEyIXDMajjSWwI0u-dijnK5DZ7eU9EloqQyyHJdKLqRIxseDQyamIxXNWUqeJ0QIveRkMdKn9D8QrbSLVgZGRqtJ9_FDq6oYZuieMvoE1-M0ae6piWdlb6HWisHt9E6q9w/s320/20230708_124520.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Chiedo a delle venditrici ambulanti di pannocchie bollite e tamales, con le quali mi sono rifugiata sotto a un gazebo (loro hanno i tricicloni, io la bici carica, mi sembrava il posto adatto). Mi spiegano che i rappresentanti del governo sono qui oggi a proporre programmi di vario tipo, dalla scuola al lavoro alla sanità, e ad ascoltare la popolazione, per capire quali siano le necessità della gente. E in effetti c'è un dispiegamento di polizia che finora non avevo mai visto, e un'intera strada occupata da camion e caravan brandizzati "Gobierno de todos" (ieri ho sentito una coppia che commentava questo slogan dicendo che il problema è proprio questo, è un governo di tutti tutti, anche chi sarebbe meglio di no). Ci sono gruppi di persone vestiti con maglie uguali, e tendoni sotto cui si tengono discorsi o si fanno vaccinazioni (già che ci siamo). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDzSuwIwtcWc07YM6ZK9HyuJuyOImxlQ5R15oEXWpsQH9iyyV17sgac8GiDeTRjTOgoXgNhUqWoTelKAHUzs5tqRWQ2MOdwY2b4g8tKdBeIjZZzc1zL8HQAwkD18qu5j_2Wd7rZsmgCrhWC-ZDpJmOJqtBADX8a82jkWQWlbq1hXF-KNbfxmg0DHgt8o/s1209/20230708_125835.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDzSuwIwtcWc07YM6ZK9HyuJuyOImxlQ5R15oEXWpsQH9iyyV17sgac8GiDeTRjTOgoXgNhUqWoTelKAHUzs5tqRWQ2MOdwY2b4g8tKdBeIjZZzc1zL8HQAwkD18qu5j_2Wd7rZsmgCrhWC-ZDpJmOJqtBADX8a82jkWQWlbq1hXF-KNbfxmg0DHgt8o/s320/20230708_125835.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGnIZcffIv65Sg2WbV397CeXMRWsRQL2HbXX6ZJTrUVVUUMeS3j8IdOWhO-C4Xm0QpkNF1axh6PzSEg4jXbS3jRpHAQdG44tcLTbKusgSNXrwr7C9rDSIyH8XEg-rrn06OvGHHQhJTyuHMdYsAtC586xeopwdWFxLW-5Y1eRRsooG7jVbZnJ0RgaAwEM/s1209/20230708_125843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGnIZcffIv65Sg2WbV397CeXMRWsRQL2HbXX6ZJTrUVVUUMeS3j8IdOWhO-C4Xm0QpkNF1axh6PzSEg4jXbS3jRpHAQdG44tcLTbKusgSNXrwr7C9rDSIyH8XEg-rrn06OvGHHQhJTyuHMdYsAtC586xeopwdWFxLW-5Y1eRRsooG7jVbZnJ0RgaAwEM/s320/20230708_125843.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKV_ZkI_-qbpRQBU3dWTCnTWhvLXn4ryuzst-vsywJpAlbc6yEo6baLI4YpG6TmnePWMWEn_ffIvQNJpnOTvTIxfsAFe-hxYwnflpWXfB8LXh1U_GwkeSMw53XGDKoIW4Us4mm08wx1SDmyzNkClAhhWFses9NH9m-G25pE_F72Z7fLvzfZJC5zrKNphE/s1209/20230708_125850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKV_ZkI_-qbpRQBU3dWTCnTWhvLXn4ryuzst-vsywJpAlbc6yEo6baLI4YpG6TmnePWMWEn_ffIvQNJpnOTvTIxfsAFe-hxYwnflpWXfB8LXh1U_GwkeSMw53XGDKoIW4Us4mm08wx1SDmyzNkClAhhWFses9NH9m-G25pE_F72Z7fLvzfZJC5zrKNphE/s320/20230708_125850.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkffGnYNY_KhowOTUZ0vD8DmMri9pzIZnr9TQR_SnxQwsWcJmNYPXLWWyyYvHjzw8Bh0jL6_j9C8WltsOUEnxbwROe1fIaK9W-KAYk1KhPq6hTaIY8pzyfqnpRcM13ngQm4IHEF8V2MqqabBmbLmCwHbonX9loEaQizc2UUVbMKNxuoEBHiZ_z2JuG0EU/s1209/20230708_130242.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkffGnYNY_KhowOTUZ0vD8DmMri9pzIZnr9TQR_SnxQwsWcJmNYPXLWWyyYvHjzw8Bh0jL6_j9C8WltsOUEnxbwROe1fIaK9W-KAYk1KhPq6hTaIY8pzyfqnpRcM13ngQm4IHEF8V2MqqabBmbLmCwHbonX9loEaQizc2UUVbMKNxuoEBHiZ_z2JuG0EU/s320/20230708_130242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlj-8JF2ct9ov0ifkL7fjyGb4g7kaZPkFg85MkgS-mjG8mvVwml5qY5S_yC0hsSNj3t3ZTb_CRpRnsnf7lcpoShx9yTQOC0GOYCICvZ222eMRp2gL61udmSlmPnCNIO_4ssWCP7ONGD3YMIZ9LgwTYCIuyO66cUah44R27Y6twVRDsQXPIWTIR_nuM9Y/s1209/20230708_130358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlj-8JF2ct9ov0ifkL7fjyGb4g7kaZPkFg85MkgS-mjG8mvVwml5qY5S_yC0hsSNj3t3ZTb_CRpRnsnf7lcpoShx9yTQOC0GOYCICvZ222eMRp2gL61udmSlmPnCNIO_4ssWCP7ONGD3YMIZ9LgwTYCIuyO66cUah44R27Y6twVRDsQXPIWTIR_nuM9Y/s320/20230708_130358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJVyneqoRmoqXo6qIVNZm8Maa00TIvp7NZCAnb8WwKi62k64UAJ-s6D-hUai6VtgZwohE3I7I7AFw4kG6uxS0EukXKKB39cHWAiSEXbKS0LyADE-F2ch2rIffucrDn28wYlfJARG9czXrJfNXQ4x5f7JFb4AN54FnxvPeZa0AsUiDo0Ej0FkTEBdPu5k/s1209/20230708_130401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlJVyneqoRmoqXo6qIVNZm8Maa00TIvp7NZCAnb8WwKi62k64UAJ-s6D-hUai6VtgZwohE3I7I7AFw4kG6uxS0EukXKKB39cHWAiSEXbKS0LyADE-F2ch2rIffucrDn28wYlfJARG9czXrJfNXQ4x5f7JFb4AN54FnxvPeZa0AsUiDo0Ej0FkTEBdPu5k/s320/20230708_130401.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In breve si sparge la voce che sono arrivati dos turistas e veniamo attorniati da un capannello di gente che vuole foto e selfie. Una signora di racconta che sua figlia vive in Francia e lei ha visitato l'Europa e anche l'Italia. Un tizio ci fa foto a raffica, e probabilmente finiremo sul giornale locale. Un altro signore, che chiama Gigi jefe (capo) ci chiede di dire qualcosa mentre ci fa un video; ci suggerisce di dire che Laureles è un posto molto bello e che attira persino il turismo. E chi siamo noi per negare? Insomma, per qualche manciata di minuti siamo l'attrazione principale della festa. Poi riusciamo a districarci e a raggiungere un angolino tranquillo per riposare un po' e asciugarci. Io da qualche ora non sto benissimo e ho una forte nausea. Temo il peggio, che per fortuna non si avvera, ma ho bisogno di sedermi un attimo a riprendermi. Nel giro di poco il sole, che era tornato a far capolino dopo il temporale, sparisce di nuovo. La luce si fa grigia, livida. Tuoni, fulmini, un vento pazzesco e via, altra ondata di tempesta, stavolta così violenta da far paura davvero. Restiamo al riparo sotto alla tettoia del negozietto dove abbiamo comprato qualcosa da bere e da mangiare, e in breve tanti fanno lo stesso. Ci troviamo accalcati tra polizia, studenti appena usciti da scuola (che approfittano del caos per rubacchiare qualche caramella nel negozio -li sgamo in pieno, ma non sono una sicofante), contadini armati di machete lunghi un metro e gente di ogni tipo, età e condizione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKkSPEKnJHRm3K8rWs_hZoOF4OOF1JiATfVgA405qYimSwJ5dzMpxCiHlRmBYIMb_vkAiZ8soQj8VxvZKiVuYY9qrMHRRjL1BRVN4NreJbZRcaHfFFtumXsaYfWV17Ae3Im1aM68K_RFfjTzjioywy4pbrSlBJCIe51j22Jq7i3zxzm1u4KxSfwQ88Sk/s1209/20230708_130900.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKkSPEKnJHRm3K8rWs_hZoOF4OOF1JiATfVgA405qYimSwJ5dzMpxCiHlRmBYIMb_vkAiZ8soQj8VxvZKiVuYY9qrMHRRjL1BRVN4NreJbZRcaHfFFtumXsaYfWV17Ae3Im1aM68K_RFfjTzjioywy4pbrSlBJCIe51j22Jq7i3zxzm1u4KxSfwQ88Sk/s320/20230708_130900.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBMRP2RoHElr7RkCK4xXHaDWfayDaX_zyTNmypVbuHsuELBDUbt0iMJrVTg15jd0hMWm5e2vrqkV0QK7VG6mqlO7IkMXQlSJhe1w_mTX0-ARZBPJq_2mNxb_ELuksy-HPrqh4_J_p0Vqlf4fB4BpEMBPoqIc-vDPQhQxqWeWIiGhV0qHbs3CUcLogSXE/s1209/20230708_134134.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBMRP2RoHElr7RkCK4xXHaDWfayDaX_zyTNmypVbuHsuELBDUbt0iMJrVTg15jd0hMWm5e2vrqkV0QK7VG6mqlO7IkMXQlSJhe1w_mTX0-ARZBPJq_2mNxb_ELuksy-HPrqh4_J_p0Vqlf4fB4BpEMBPoqIc-vDPQhQxqWeWIiGhV0qHbs3CUcLogSXE/s320/20230708_134134.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finalmente, dopo un tempo eterno, la furia del maltempo concede tregua. Torniamo in sella che ancora piovicchia, ma presto smette. La strada, sempre più piccola e meno battuta, ci porta a pedalare in mezzo a campi coltivati (soprattutto a zucche... Ma quante! Kilometri e kilometri di zucche) e zone di selva. Vediamo tantissime varietà di rettili (simil lucertole, ma grandi e colorate) e persino un armadillo e una tartarughina. Entrambi spiaccicati, ma tant'è. A volte la campagna cede il passo alla selva incolta, che brulica di frulli d'ali e richiami d'uccelli che non so.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YoVBALC9adQnFa3-yS0-VPrwnbnqRLddQntlamMz6GQL7NZLwVHzNylAE3bpYQeK5xkdKjDwBFeNqApZ8oaqxa2aFV3Av6V4-JDFQsVt0hASU55IwRSvCbPuPzk7ptPzzdhjledVhlVHCvxpStGIQAAFj4Zxuyexgz4ieEt5tmf7jLWBqs5Vl5XbQc0/s1209/20230708_142751.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YoVBALC9adQnFa3-yS0-VPrwnbnqRLddQntlamMz6GQL7NZLwVHzNylAE3bpYQeK5xkdKjDwBFeNqApZ8oaqxa2aFV3Av6V4-JDFQsVt0hASU55IwRSvCbPuPzk7ptPzzdhjledVhlVHCvxpStGIQAAFj4Zxuyexgz4ieEt5tmf7jLWBqs5Vl5XbQc0/s320/20230708_142751.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzFa-VezEqysePyc1Ae2AMPPVtLOKnxnIGU1hyygWKASFu4tCvMvtErVL6GHRF_W77gVU1TubUdKh85mfFvpMpWR2PYS2hMO3_8kGJ5U08NzXWJyrKL9-wpiLNM8Lk5A5wVvSYF5lfnvf_YMc7viJ2FHCZRRoAAC7sxWtWhwOn_tICmfxwwNXNE8x9DlU/s1209/20230708_143702.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzFa-VezEqysePyc1Ae2AMPPVtLOKnxnIGU1hyygWKASFu4tCvMvtErVL6GHRF_W77gVU1TubUdKh85mfFvpMpWR2PYS2hMO3_8kGJ5U08NzXWJyrKL9-wpiLNM8Lk5A5wVvSYF5lfnvf_YMc7viJ2FHCZRRoAAC7sxWtWhwOn_tICmfxwwNXNE8x9DlU/s320/20230708_143702.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_I174U75VoEMKNm6PXDhnmYEicgQB2IckicnegbXgT6sjSInmT49GGmiVxMhmg1rKLQ6YlWxrHKBj_gcvVFS6M7pnm2YOolAjcsrIc1r7SX4gotI5opMM5R17cndfPStDNdaNVIaMZ4O5wbJAdi-TDl8D_-bIHv-nyTGPmiRBK9NgdNmOgNbiUwTxR9k/s1209/20230708_143825.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_I174U75VoEMKNm6PXDhnmYEicgQB2IckicnegbXgT6sjSInmT49GGmiVxMhmg1rKLQ6YlWxrHKBj_gcvVFS6M7pnm2YOolAjcsrIc1r7SX4gotI5opMM5R17cndfPStDNdaNVIaMZ4O5wbJAdi-TDl8D_-bIHv-nyTGPmiRBK9NgdNmOgNbiUwTxR9k/s320/20230708_143825.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9NQ6ucXuCboMlYy7lhwXVsBC0zkPXNHe6kGg49lXpEQ1BIXfDlPaHofqcdD81gz46ArboCP6tGzOF9zibfqET-7Xu6miPWeOYqpAnH5qlg5UEN1nLEEXhk8pwzgkvHjbHLn6pjiUk8BlL5TmqrOzmPlapjI5ysO7rkTIYKXAd_vlnBAYvjzfpzDJuO8/s1209/20230708_153744.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9NQ6ucXuCboMlYy7lhwXVsBC0zkPXNHe6kGg49lXpEQ1BIXfDlPaHofqcdD81gz46ArboCP6tGzOF9zibfqET-7Xu6miPWeOYqpAnH5qlg5UEN1nLEEXhk8pwzgkvHjbHLn6pjiUk8BlL5TmqrOzmPlapjI5ysO7rkTIYKXAd_vlnBAYvjzfpzDJuO8/s320/20230708_153744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il tempo resta fresco anche quando torna il sole, che è pieno ma più basso e dolce. Qui alle 18.30 tramonta, e siccome oggi siamo un po' in ritardo rispetto al solito, vediamo le ombre farsi lunghe nella luce obliqua. Si aprono squarci di terra dissodata, rossa rossa come ne abbiamo vista anche negli States. Sembra ricordare quanta violenza si è abbattuta, nei secoli, su questi luoghi, che sono imbevuti del sangue di generazioni intere. Certo, il contrasto tra rosso e azzurro del cielo crea un'opera d'arte tale che pare di pedalare in un quadro.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzMxjRn0VGYrZW3mM1t3Ym4NaxfNjzCkkmRCxv1nNnmWSSqgj4CCUiKru2GWljnXNymbE_a-wgtr9szqOnq7Q0Q9DQXxyFDufTeNVfNh-urwUXwtbMWiRZt9jvP_IOsWJqtpr15EEjFILLO4RIzLRGLGK0GkbAPeZLiZF8tDSXyRVxOhbAUqEA3bvpwU/s1123/20230708_155028.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="842" data-original-width="1123" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzMxjRn0VGYrZW3mM1t3Ym4NaxfNjzCkkmRCxv1nNnmWSSqgj4CCUiKru2GWljnXNymbE_a-wgtr9szqOnq7Q0Q9DQXxyFDufTeNVfNh-urwUXwtbMWiRZt9jvP_IOsWJqtpr15EEjFILLO4RIzLRGLGK0GkbAPeZLiZF8tDSXyRVxOhbAUqEA3bvpwU/s320/20230708_155028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7h9YZT6OsYpffvdPQdrtOPq0o5oaWEWB5y5rzjl-0t3ASo9-4Yh2QNrppYYy1IL0IRynL887m61UxSrJXerLJJiUDw8b9xjTtX5S_Xm6UUPDxsTeWd5EXNk-6Ldu1SIV18cJ_2kPgjXaRRiZyHPhNhR5ZmpxSe6mBrsopcpwoqaSksqefSSyS7ktMkM/s1209/20230708_155058.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG7h9YZT6OsYpffvdPQdrtOPq0o5oaWEWB5y5rzjl-0t3ASo9-4Yh2QNrppYYy1IL0IRynL887m61UxSrJXerLJJiUDw8b9xjTtX5S_Xm6UUPDxsTeWd5EXNk-6Ldu1SIV18cJ_2kPgjXaRRiZyHPhNhR5ZmpxSe6mBrsopcpwoqaSksqefSSyS7ktMkM/s320/20230708_155058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeV7juQUZO943Ujt3eSEkgfWU1T9JNUVrOrtHJSwhmaegIHC9PsF0ykvlMbj0XDJyjTYw2quZ0grQnSyIrHDl7Fv20xB3qN9ZaR6QWoM7gokJBEszEl0zhHS42CTZJxBFO_9Vwh_AIth1iHjeVyWdCXadSWDLG5VMGC8VxxwJR_Qlny8RDNGBgsVyGKE/s1209/20230708_160523.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeV7juQUZO943Ujt3eSEkgfWU1T9JNUVrOrtHJSwhmaegIHC9PsF0ykvlMbj0XDJyjTYw2quZ0grQnSyIrHDl7Fv20xB3qN9ZaR6QWoM7gokJBEszEl0zhHS42CTZJxBFO_9Vwh_AIth1iHjeVyWdCXadSWDLG5VMGC8VxxwJR_Qlny8RDNGBgsVyGKE/s320/20230708_160523.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQATlutZMsiM55yY_FXUvZEwmUyhIcL3V6GqiKohN22Gql8ZSJRO4h7zz0qvI879nPETObNKynOn-_zE4zbObqz0uMKl2ybu-l_W1o_fKsFTH5WGZ36LKzBLcISEwG8rJkCHimRwLxPJP6vJ9k6hSQeuagQtMSF6Y75UUPHJZDJdKR2p7gbPIFQBN9Dbc/s1209/20230708_160609.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQATlutZMsiM55yY_FXUvZEwmUyhIcL3V6GqiKohN22Gql8ZSJRO4h7zz0qvI879nPETObNKynOn-_zE4zbObqz0uMKl2ybu-l_W1o_fKsFTH5WGZ36LKzBLcISEwG8rJkCHimRwLxPJP6vJ9k6hSQeuagQtMSF6Y75UUPHJZDJdKR2p7gbPIFQBN9Dbc/s320/20230708_160609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jsGDrqU97zOf96KGjMfBS6bCQ5Cc8vjnT8smEs_3Xnv7eOLhOf5kzmlFkEiUyk15fhzFdx0t6rtrGbWlAnFURwvyrRVAnFLesCdH5whShDzGgJU-ScV7-IdxZMVdZ5rYiu2u0klYjHDq0Agp0lBfbNjP_i7CsvwGV7CJSqirfe849Kzdfd_hckrE6l8/s1209/20230708_161655.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jsGDrqU97zOf96KGjMfBS6bCQ5Cc8vjnT8smEs_3Xnv7eOLhOf5kzmlFkEiUyk15fhzFdx0t6rtrGbWlAnFURwvyrRVAnFLesCdH5whShDzGgJU-ScV7-IdxZMVdZ5rYiu2u0klYjHDq0Agp0lBfbNjP_i7CsvwGV7CJSqirfe849Kzdfd_hckrE6l8/s320/20230708_161655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo drittoni infiniti che bucano l'orizzonte e tagliano in due la foresta, dopo innumerevoli salitine e altrettanto innumerevoli discesine, arriviamo a destinazione a Dzibalchén. Si tratta di un paesino ino ino, con un solo albergo, che fa pure da ristorante e bar (gli unici, ovviamente). Di fondazione maya (intorno ci sono diversi siti archeologici minori), è stato teatro di violenti scontri durante la guerra delle caste, per cui la popolazione si rifugiava nelle grotte della zona; nel XIX secolo qui c'era un'azienda che lavorava la gomma, e da questo nucleo è poi nato il paese. Noi prendiamo una bella cameretta e ci riposiamo un po', prima di cena. La struttura è decorata in stile mezzo Fantabosco ma tropicale, e mezzo safari tra tucani di plastica e pappagalli in terracotta dipinta.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWkEUlPLLIPOm3MW8WLoNVlCpVJrm3OPCFLYZWgNcQUtZbrRqaNzGOY89IoHemEO0VCEcDyWRVGcqpQ_ww9S-a6RGOATQZLpjqj1bmwU0QG2r1i-jBpmFeE5dJpIlxHRjAQJQzv2vuCAe45DEnhZs6aUYhuv2cYpDwgRBm8LQHobtiKQ2Ab4Zqsv8YoRM/s1209/20230708_171038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWkEUlPLLIPOm3MW8WLoNVlCpVJrm3OPCFLYZWgNcQUtZbrRqaNzGOY89IoHemEO0VCEcDyWRVGcqpQ_ww9S-a6RGOATQZLpjqj1bmwU0QG2r1i-jBpmFeE5dJpIlxHRjAQJQzv2vuCAe45DEnhZs6aUYhuv2cYpDwgRBm8LQHobtiKQ2Ab4Zqsv8YoRM/s320/20230708_171038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLm-3BUOo3VhnQxPm3toT_sQq3ZFLB1SpdpB3QP4ts6d-3ViE6T6mhPIGJz2oG3yAcE8UfaxihOHvbYnbRynynPjK-cpSYyp3TEq0W-cls0MEB4mHv0TVrzPVBzTCcSmfXO6Fak6pGMWLuffWHd_Mq9uaolr9oFa3boseS3ugaWR8huKmz-MaSTfedSk/s979/20230708_171251.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpLm-3BUOo3VhnQxPm3toT_sQq3ZFLB1SpdpB3QP4ts6d-3ViE6T6mhPIGJz2oG3yAcE8UfaxihOHvbYnbRynynPjK-cpSYyp3TEq0W-cls0MEB4mHv0TVrzPVBzTCcSmfXO6Fak6pGMWLuffWHd_Mq9uaolr9oFa3boseS3ugaWR8huKmz-MaSTfedSk/s320/20230708_171251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Xzb0FO9xYH-klDf084qHH_SGxE7NSQe2p_7Qo8kJHe2d0_e7XFy5m-nd2xSZqLiyz5zmOkvwAb5gVueHtep37qgwhfji7Xoq1pcKomQ_1ENDi87HtHetLwYwzUfr_CmNo0HV9_9nXU9n6Vien0NnT16X1JrsbPQKGyQ2KDNbQZlpKuEZSNXgNfIqaP4/s1209/20230708_171909.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Xzb0FO9xYH-klDf084qHH_SGxE7NSQe2p_7Qo8kJHe2d0_e7XFy5m-nd2xSZqLiyz5zmOkvwAb5gVueHtep37qgwhfji7Xoq1pcKomQ_1ENDi87HtHetLwYwzUfr_CmNo0HV9_9nXU9n6Vien0NnT16X1JrsbPQKGyQ2KDNbQZlpKuEZSNXgNfIqaP4/s320/20230708_171909.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per cena ci limitiamo a scendere al pian terreno. Il ristorante è pieno di mennoniti, famiglie con tanti figli o ragazzi in compagnia di amici. I primi mangiano, i secondi bevono e basta. A quanto pare, l'educazione mennonita prevede largo uso di schiaffoni e violenza in generale, perchè questi poveri bimbi le prendono di santa ragione per ogni nonnulla. Io sospendo il giudizio, anche se per me è tutto abbastanza limpido. Ci dedichiamo al cibo, che è meglio. Gigi ordina una milaneza de pollo, che sarebbe la cotoletta impanata, mentre io resto su fajitas, sempre di pollo. Rinunciamo ai vari succhi di frutta, sicuramente buonissimi, perchè artigianiali e fatti con eau de rubinette.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZun2kUl2qxIODgKE5kDGRnI2jiJ7xVLTs_2FKEEkyOtcqjVMjn6adA-Z0qojKoninHkmFkevBq0EM9e2N7QACqc4ltoz-xUvZ0nNcKqnFWSDVPLvuOAEMf0ijNX3QKSvASrjuYYhVBmdmfbImBGJbYf8DIMmcsv1tGltkvuGrkVeXpf2VV8OVheLOYjg/s1209/20230708_192537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZun2kUl2qxIODgKE5kDGRnI2jiJ7xVLTs_2FKEEkyOtcqjVMjn6adA-Z0qojKoninHkmFkevBq0EM9e2N7QACqc4ltoz-xUvZ0nNcKqnFWSDVPLvuOAEMf0ijNX3QKSvASrjuYYhVBmdmfbImBGJbYf8DIMmcsv1tGltkvuGrkVeXpf2VV8OVheLOYjg/s320/20230708_192537.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqMZMhvxjaFKWhT1KWE34r7cGB1CjH3WOI5vgMDaf8qz161aWgOtNX8EYh6AhfGYPUe3e0MwLc3cu6trd7L-F2KdaF5oBJIiwA9YZ4jOKhqXdsUG2SnYrZtcXJsA1TUFL92mUPnBWwM0U-v2hpQIHxS9oMRw7cRAm-yvspuq8tyyZxN6CJpu9LQRWQwY/s1209/20230708_194813.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqMZMhvxjaFKWhT1KWE34r7cGB1CjH3WOI5vgMDaf8qz161aWgOtNX8EYh6AhfGYPUe3e0MwLc3cu6trd7L-F2KdaF5oBJIiwA9YZ4jOKhqXdsUG2SnYrZtcXJsA1TUFL92mUPnBWwM0U-v2hpQIHxS9oMRw7cRAm-yvspuq8tyyZxN6CJpu9LQRWQwY/s320/20230708_194813.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZDgUihBzghNLlIByHdBeCph82LE3lYzSLnk1NibqHJZ9fisiC5VX0YSctyfqLteZMyn2ouv8R9cQdfIpWpz6uAB4YDtpS7pxgtszSdqBxd1LyLVp09V95TFMLFy0PrfKFZMFUD3hR-zKITD10W3vsnUTu5aE1GpHgBzR-InR6HBrY4IoL2eSE-2QfIW8/s1209/20230708_195126.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZDgUihBzghNLlIByHdBeCph82LE3lYzSLnk1NibqHJZ9fisiC5VX0YSctyfqLteZMyn2ouv8R9cQdfIpWpz6uAB4YDtpS7pxgtszSdqBxd1LyLVp09V95TFMLFy0PrfKFZMFUD3hR-zKITD10W3vsnUTu5aE1GpHgBzR-InR6HBrY4IoL2eSE-2QfIW8/s320/20230708_195126.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-4ivJrTLEdyYrL2WgYle7ZcSe5VSR4znJfRRdsAWc_hpHTL8hs3sefb7RoO5cUOb1mWPktozIsVS5KY_V8R4f4r8B28pFac7Giy1kjeR9h9oG1tni5f7M0197j2Z2N3hzBBiD0EaQPwFPgm1_BLdYole2X4Kp85Inq93-zVj5RWPc4UWJqx9KCAfGxM4/s1209/20230708_202108.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-4ivJrTLEdyYrL2WgYle7ZcSe5VSR4znJfRRdsAWc_hpHTL8hs3sefb7RoO5cUOb1mWPktozIsVS5KY_V8R4f4r8B28pFac7Giy1kjeR9h9oG1tni5f7M0197j2Z2N3hzBBiD0EaQPwFPgm1_BLdYole2X4Kp85Inq93-zVj5RWPc4UWJqx9KCAfGxM4/s320/20230708_202108.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Nel frattempo ho ricevuto un messaggio da Visit Calakmul, l'agenzia che coordina le comunità locali, e purtroppo domani non potremo essere ospiti presso la comunità di Union 20 de Junio (non si sa perchè, il messaggio è laconico qb). Quindi dobbiamo pupparci il tappone, il talpone, il pappone. 134km di collinette malefiche. In mezzo, poco e nulla. Sarà meglio riposare e puntare presto la sveglia.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">9/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Dzibalchén-Zoh laguna</div><div style="text-align: left;">134km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Quella di oggi è stata una tappa lunga e faticosa, ma incredibile per la natura con cui siamo entrati in contatto.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Faccio l'elenco dei fattori negativi, che d'ora in poi chiameremo genericamente "cose di merda": vento contrario, teso, tutto il giorno; alternanza di caldissimo e uragani devastanti; salitelle infinite, tagliagambe, capaci di far perdere fiato, ritmo e testa anche a Sisifo; strada spesso malconcia, tutta buche e asfalto esploso, muy peligroso; un totale di 4 paesi sull'intero percorso, di cui due soltanto con la possibilità di prendere acqua; in quei pochi paesi, cani incazzosi spesso lanciati all'inseguimento dei nostri polpaccetti indifesi.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Quindi, perchè? Che senso ha pedalare questo tratto di strada? Semplice: perchè si attraversa la riserva della biosfera di Calakmul, uno dei luoghi con la maggior varietà di fauna e flora di tutto il paese. Qui vivono 5 dei 6 grandi felini del Messico (su tutti: puma, giaguaro, ocelot), centinaia di specie di uccelli, di rettili (anche coccodritti), di insetti e mammiferi di ogni tipo, tra cui le scimmie urlatrici), tapiri e una colonia con 5 milioni di pipistrelli. Oggi abbiamo visto attraversarci la strada dei tayra (che è? Guarda <a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eira_barbara" target="_blank">qui</a>), grigioni maggiori (e daje, che roba è? <a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galictis_vittata">Qui</a> lo scopri) e urocioni comuni, che altro non sono che piccole volpi carinissime. E poi avvoltoi, stormi di pappagallini verdi vocianti, farfalle di ogni colore, forma e dimensione... Insomma, una meraviglia incredibile.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Certo è costata fatica. Ma è un prezzo più che onesto da pagare per immergersi in tanta bellezza.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Torniamo a stamattina.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Ci alziamo presto, mangiamo due tortillas con miele in camera e siamo subito in sella. Prima di lasciare il paese facciamo una scorta d'acqua nell'unico posto aperto di domenica mattina, un supermercatino cadente in piazza. Il commesso si incuriosisce vedendoci, e mi fa mille domande sul viaggio, sulle bici, sull'Italia. Gigi, che aspetta fuori, pensa che mi abbiano rapita. Con uno sguardo salutiamo la piazza, ancora addormentata, baciata piano dalla luce del primo sole.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6LSivT7rt6ufeF_LAj3mqdQBcKGNNfL0pR_wlaNCJcd4XtDCRyiV-EZRqBcckdfjHjAYRhP1jfw2UdU6NwNIhpQplR3uAiDQ6Ssl-RemEVXkus36Vo9ghBjYNcYbomgXcqcTDnI9xzivqjlLpAEi69nZ3h_XSEvJTFyQh5dRrg9FqWpxidMeBgwYpuIk/s1209/20230709_075454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6LSivT7rt6ufeF_LAj3mqdQBcKGNNfL0pR_wlaNCJcd4XtDCRyiV-EZRqBcckdfjHjAYRhP1jfw2UdU6NwNIhpQplR3uAiDQ6Ssl-RemEVXkus36Vo9ghBjYNcYbomgXcqcTDnI9xzivqjlLpAEi69nZ3h_XSEvJTFyQh5dRrg9FqWpxidMeBgwYpuIk/s320/20230709_075454.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmrJ9R4JbDqulf80jqwyxpIu26-RDkDUYF8Sh_MJZ3k4xH8aUYH8fOCSbnuuRm2q1_CMAzEE6zaqyBpTDtaFDpPlHCgLcNNAmnknprlZyRh0MRRs-7-u4_YeoApoGJeSlKgMujyCgSTFyb1Lnhugk5pGLF-kSACZPxKBNxLgUTI41R94umD9FshqUuDI/s1209/20230709_080149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmrJ9R4JbDqulf80jqwyxpIu26-RDkDUYF8Sh_MJZ3k4xH8aUYH8fOCSbnuuRm2q1_CMAzEE6zaqyBpTDtaFDpPlHCgLcNNAmnknprlZyRh0MRRs-7-u4_YeoApoGJeSlKgMujyCgSTFyb1Lnhugk5pGLF-kSACZPxKBNxLgUTI41R94umD9FshqUuDI/s320/20230709_080149.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejNbIeV-ZB8egzlf4eBZmQAgjrQs4zYpufj47-ZqpT49hfTxvwb7pH4DX5jF7-m0CwabvK8-_odlksxamFMK6f_4n24gIMLhDwK41ixhjPa5JYqi1BokpNZMm1V432Qoa_bdZAXhgLZDztW_BT075af9FfyhFHu1bBDTWDkpGzkZVKTfB8pPwVFVdsQU/s1209/20230709_080203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejNbIeV-ZB8egzlf4eBZmQAgjrQs4zYpufj47-ZqpT49hfTxvwb7pH4DX5jF7-m0CwabvK8-_odlksxamFMK6f_4n24gIMLhDwK41ixhjPa5JYqi1BokpNZMm1V432Qoa_bdZAXhgLZDztW_BT075af9FfyhFHu1bBDTWDkpGzkZVKTfB8pPwVFVdsQU/s320/20230709_080203.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3dt8EiiGSQuGsarpXlDme_RKsuDr5YwqodDr_JVLEA_VERYqsS7OVgpFDHazIHb2XMou4oHMcVOTZ5wJYc8Zp31kMctO_YFkw_a-vM6e82GlJ9LH91piz_vbCSQCdcrpD6SyTIADo-W3UJE7tjb_7wjoOXWJykMK6KS9B1w-w-1w3sYToYnUT5nQDF8g/s1209/20230709_080352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3dt8EiiGSQuGsarpXlDme_RKsuDr5YwqodDr_JVLEA_VERYqsS7OVgpFDHazIHb2XMou4oHMcVOTZ5wJYc8Zp31kMctO_YFkw_a-vM6e82GlJ9LH91piz_vbCSQCdcrpD6SyTIADo-W3UJE7tjb_7wjoOXWJykMK6KS9B1w-w-1w3sYToYnUT5nQDF8g/s320/20230709_080352.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Poi via, siamo sulla strada. Già dai primi kilometri capiamo che la giornata sarà impegnativa: il vento ci frena e ci costringe a una fatica sfibrante, continua. La salitelle non tardano a comparire. Dopo una ventina di km internet e la rete telefonica spariscono (qui sono coperti solo i paesi più grandi) -torneranno solo a fine giornata. I campi e le terre rosse dissodate lasciano presto il posto alla selva che, via via, si fa più fitta e lussureggiante, debordante, fino a invadere la strada e quasi riprendersela. La strada corre perfettamente dritta, senza curve, per oltre 100km. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib14s0yGO7TWvpdM_dmIyVeAGLESv90-k1k7m6WKMgPt6Tg7S4xxf7Mcb20KtNju0eJ1pU5xJ8lmUVpHNe5-Z2-h8lg4fURWTL15g0Kmtsb5Zs19760nI2x6hAI60pYsjwxNjUjcFdXvfWtWvtcE2oQUeWAgfwxXUwloe3w3_OcDattIyMXvRNaWH0m30/s1209/20230709_082955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib14s0yGO7TWvpdM_dmIyVeAGLESv90-k1k7m6WKMgPt6Tg7S4xxf7Mcb20KtNju0eJ1pU5xJ8lmUVpHNe5-Z2-h8lg4fURWTL15g0Kmtsb5Zs19760nI2x6hAI60pYsjwxNjUjcFdXvfWtWvtcE2oQUeWAgfwxXUwloe3w3_OcDattIyMXvRNaWH0m30/s320/20230709_082955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7KIMSZInbFadTDZKS7m3CkQq4fZ6IP76bKymweptpNdsHJ2_s8OPrSGcOFQ5FAhJQP7O4yFVqvfCcjKovtR1CbRrCcOAfdOBaMq-Ecxnqb-26fuXIon_pt_MyBDaDv1Q5u6hNi9IAFblAs2tA3DNfPby4BPk7_hrAP1Bx0uUscygF0q3F13Xw4t28AKk/s1209/20230709_093926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7KIMSZInbFadTDZKS7m3CkQq4fZ6IP76bKymweptpNdsHJ2_s8OPrSGcOFQ5FAhJQP7O4yFVqvfCcjKovtR1CbRrCcOAfdOBaMq-Ecxnqb-26fuXIon_pt_MyBDaDv1Q5u6hNi9IAFblAs2tA3DNfPby4BPk7_hrAP1Bx0uUscygF0q3F13Xw4t28AKk/s320/20230709_093926.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYiw7A9zYf4hgiMiDEgAIi2lEArMBBJ2xyPoirCMGR4n3Nt6tRn1lIwsbynTcLGG2lR9Urp7mQgi6Z1lwLypyG0sOZw8FamlWLCp5kfGliga-tQ5hhKXW4JNNgnGX25_fGKxV9mZJNKpXHlfCn-WGZ3joRrfHOnUt-mYatG6Vf5vLndEjHr3lebHvVzrk/s1209/20230709_102545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYiw7A9zYf4hgiMiDEgAIi2lEArMBBJ2xyPoirCMGR4n3Nt6tRn1lIwsbynTcLGG2lR9Urp7mQgi6Z1lwLypyG0sOZw8FamlWLCp5kfGliga-tQ5hhKXW4JNNgnGX25_fGKxV9mZJNKpXHlfCn-WGZ3joRrfHOnUt-mYatG6Vf5vLndEjHr3lebHvVzrk/s320/20230709_102545.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL0WYr7miqidwKnmub0K4gQ4HQN1kgRZnWOx1pYqsNTspeQPATCXcoGVVRER2xU9Aa4b59cVNKxhliss12TZRkoBSiZ7pC0_Stp2PkY8XB5Z7tpNYnu3BYcr7gyEDV8Yau2EEYtPK-v5QHGdw547lX5ZXIcoSgMWjMrDWYUZy-F0Mw_IYKLLCLyxOoYXo/s1209/20230709_102555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL0WYr7miqidwKnmub0K4gQ4HQN1kgRZnWOx1pYqsNTspeQPATCXcoGVVRER2xU9Aa4b59cVNKxhliss12TZRkoBSiZ7pC0_Stp2PkY8XB5Z7tpNYnu3BYcr7gyEDV8Yau2EEYtPK-v5QHGdw547lX5ZXIcoSgMWjMrDWYUZy-F0Mw_IYKLLCLyxOoYXo/s320/20230709_102555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcUnKTLrf8YtrwcbyNI5rU5dqV5jON18aS0LyFmNoiW2q83GbShRS89YuiIoUci629FVJzsnMJ5AU9mskOLo6yPlRStWPLaT-LB7xC3K2BXX673f8bjjMFcAYSnETmTVTN7xhSSxUKKuOOU0pb7CHv_N35Zw_tRHj5YpxTudgiKj5OHKeF91n7aGshhHs/s1209/20230709_102615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcUnKTLrf8YtrwcbyNI5rU5dqV5jON18aS0LyFmNoiW2q83GbShRS89YuiIoUci629FVJzsnMJ5AU9mskOLo6yPlRStWPLaT-LB7xC3K2BXX673f8bjjMFcAYSnETmTVTN7xhSSxUKKuOOU0pb7CHv_N35Zw_tRHj5YpxTudgiKj5OHKeF91n7aGshhHs/s320/20230709_102615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbPsHMhrIQuGJzzQ2Vi3-t1QHAgH7JTH5UBF7xus_cDID6jvjb_9EUYrkUXgvtk4ZqQOGgOpV5lc8Qo6SLZ6jt76omjZHJ1FDiPtyWiQZzHBVGq_cZ6R6jEJcndi3bCwZnRjMksJE-mk7PGflyOTEGslf_QYW847j1h5IO7qO1tznKYrolT_n1t3TNfVk/s1209/20230709_104227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbPsHMhrIQuGJzzQ2Vi3-t1QHAgH7JTH5UBF7xus_cDID6jvjb_9EUYrkUXgvtk4ZqQOGgOpV5lc8Qo6SLZ6jt76omjZHJ1FDiPtyWiQZzHBVGq_cZ6R6jEJcndi3bCwZnRjMksJE-mk7PGflyOTEGslf_QYW847j1h5IO7qO1tznKYrolT_n1t3TNfVk/s320/20230709_104227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW4qCGLjzTrruEM8LVApTd9BQ1oz7XHlX9vkHcPlLXqxlh14WUnuqLtfGRJcgf2AsAfGsDanWrcXZ-vEFKvSQ-iTBfhlGZyC1PGonWX_3cEsiQYDoo5crs8PGPsm0qsyYWwBfQakI-2vqhboDowKauSYk9-0c6V4fuvp_ETGzHIb1I_vn32hM2kxVqmrY/s1209/20230709_105746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW4qCGLjzTrruEM8LVApTd9BQ1oz7XHlX9vkHcPlLXqxlh14WUnuqLtfGRJcgf2AsAfGsDanWrcXZ-vEFKvSQ-iTBfhlGZyC1PGonWX_3cEsiQYDoo5crs8PGPsm0qsyYWwBfQakI-2vqhboDowKauSYk9-0c6V4fuvp_ETGzHIb1I_vn32hM2kxVqmrY/s320/20230709_105746.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dopo una prima tirata di 50km, che ci ha già prosciugati, ci fermiamo nell'unico baracchino dell'unico pueblo, Ucum e Xmaben. Si tratta di un'isola felice: microbaretto, ristorantino, negozio di vestiti e officina meccanica, tutto con bagno (che è quello della casa dove vive la proprietaria) e posti a sedere all'ombra di palme da cocco. Le svaligiamo il frigo delle bevande. Mi fa ridere che tenga i soldi della cassa in un padellino che resta poi in bella vista in cima al frigorifero. Lei se ne accorge e ride con me: vanno tenuti nascosti, dice ghignando.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEr_VqsJoapwTrIhG-rI6FbLHgU-iyIsa-bFcjohOIgrCjKE8jZS_IZxoFlmH09Ty0lOi5PcSS86oto2g2Nqn6XVjL_808hBDAeDK5tgjUWOVBzhYGsZ43ms7GELYgbC3kJtz-KGrML6ng0DFMh09wVPc2NK05N6yCbUbtWiuRDlVFCLahHU9gsolWpXs/s1209/20230709_113017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEr_VqsJoapwTrIhG-rI6FbLHgU-iyIsa-bFcjohOIgrCjKE8jZS_IZxoFlmH09Ty0lOi5PcSS86oto2g2Nqn6XVjL_808hBDAeDK5tgjUWOVBzhYGsZ43ms7GELYgbC3kJtz-KGrML6ng0DFMh09wVPc2NK05N6yCbUbtWiuRDlVFCLahHU9gsolWpXs/s320/20230709_113017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3b_xksn1YC5MdKmtaMHXIpf8gRZ4selK51KdHilX6rxyFLIuLkZTSe3saXDoWmgT6hCb_WFwf_cL6WNj6V_LzoZeEvpWRiSFmULLmim5IGD35LZty0KyksXoyWdw-XbjvYVAmj7KmRQ3RP4M3GNXnuKtyJA0s6zEjt1WHbMoolUuwAfyi3FRK7uP4EeE/s1209/20230709_113027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3b_xksn1YC5MdKmtaMHXIpf8gRZ4selK51KdHilX6rxyFLIuLkZTSe3saXDoWmgT6hCb_WFwf_cL6WNj6V_LzoZeEvpWRiSFmULLmim5IGD35LZty0KyksXoyWdw-XbjvYVAmj7KmRQ3RP4M3GNXnuKtyJA0s6zEjt1WHbMoolUuwAfyi3FRK7uP4EeE/s320/20230709_113027.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExQ7DcJvX4XGT4kcd0YgpNPAwmk7iZG-925ufMzeok_vvH6rbAukiT-iANtXr2ToEBYXMpOWMOGnR6UslNwN7kXQwTxDk7oKcQa4ef5KKW3agJJYerIVFqxYvYtD7fGM_uruNAdUsKZO5je34luGn3AnaeXtFgcShjHmFW00CR8fp_GZVZb4MSDaF1B0/s1209/20230709_113222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExQ7DcJvX4XGT4kcd0YgpNPAwmk7iZG-925ufMzeok_vvH6rbAukiT-iANtXr2ToEBYXMpOWMOGnR6UslNwN7kXQwTxDk7oKcQa4ef5KKW3agJJYerIVFqxYvYtD7fGM_uruNAdUsKZO5je34luGn3AnaeXtFgcShjHmFW00CR8fp_GZVZb4MSDaF1B0/s320/20230709_113222.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPivdX69nIPbDJri206D7CdTqneoqqk2QI86N5Q3NfmHLGp9pHNdMR1vrCZ1S6MKAjxOjyizFO2oYwF2UD3l0yi260E9eG3RslbT6pNKBX4LvwRh4Fpr80aBds98oPvS7Zr1jinQ6z3AOg4e3ut1FrnXeFCkPjuo_cFyq34fuM77ymdJBbnhmoNlO_Tos/s1209/20230709_113234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPivdX69nIPbDJri206D7CdTqneoqqk2QI86N5Q3NfmHLGp9pHNdMR1vrCZ1S6MKAjxOjyizFO2oYwF2UD3l0yi260E9eG3RslbT6pNKBX4LvwRh4Fpr80aBds98oPvS7Zr1jinQ6z3AOg4e3ut1FrnXeFCkPjuo_cFyq34fuM77ymdJBbnhmoNlO_Tos/s320/20230709_113234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ1UG68BScRawmHrCi8BeWINNA4vau_co2j-mmAQ9q2DPlfpi4nVY8gg0oz8ngnP4ai6jvMaVp8t4jpb2MnRS19_U-NXi3VS2YFbaBPUIFsdRT1YSGi76nlDIPSfDz4o5zcr2W9l6NdEsyCZ_rz3r9mnunok0IQCMx1Wu5RdbN727yzihhco-r77oOcVU/s1209/20230709_113357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ1UG68BScRawmHrCi8BeWINNA4vau_co2j-mmAQ9q2DPlfpi4nVY8gg0oz8ngnP4ai6jvMaVp8t4jpb2MnRS19_U-NXi3VS2YFbaBPUIFsdRT1YSGi76nlDIPSfDz4o5zcr2W9l6NdEsyCZ_rz3r9mnunok0IQCMx1Wu5RdbN727yzihhco-r77oOcVU/s320/20230709_113357.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo verso sud per altri 40km. Incrociamo l'abitato di X-Canah, che conta una decina di anime, altrettanti polli e tacchini, un paio di maiali, un cavallo e un'arena da rodeo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETwE_nj5a2NSZnHqbRtfjnqh5dvfzBuj_I1UQpfkzxFZWczfMxeIo3jfz9pUanjFQjxG-cFID_mHoNc9_CpJcYzd51ljZW4YN8jfqxasQ_WmyQv-1pg9QTCbyo3P39et5DtRTynec0mQWH4b2e6XtzvSPhu83wMAaqIf09jV1H9P8xmELMyFqd6TOKY8/s1209/20230709_131944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETwE_nj5a2NSZnHqbRtfjnqh5dvfzBuj_I1UQpfkzxFZWczfMxeIo3jfz9pUanjFQjxG-cFID_mHoNc9_CpJcYzd51ljZW4YN8jfqxasQ_WmyQv-1pg9QTCbyo3P39et5DtRTynec0mQWH4b2e6XtzvSPhu83wMAaqIf09jV1H9P8xmELMyFqd6TOKY8/s320/20230709_131944.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV_l-VdWv1oQvm2w5Dylciyy34a1h3tBvvx7ahwyc2nVRebdtew12i0UFJiACOKBWgTREZdUZcrXO3-3INJAwLEDZNO4-JREBoY83QHq1jBo6G14PMhbUXFi6dyi7y1NHsgHPsE5PnEGNo1d0BA1ugBntD4rwKbjZD1YAC_LB2gWJAojudIJBl56m_lQ/s1209/20230709_131950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV_l-VdWv1oQvm2w5Dylciyy34a1h3tBvvx7ahwyc2nVRebdtew12i0UFJiACOKBWgTREZdUZcrXO3-3INJAwLEDZNO4-JREBoY83QHq1jBo6G14PMhbUXFi6dyi7y1NHsgHPsE5PnEGNo1d0BA1ugBntD4rwKbjZD1YAC_LB2gWJAojudIJBl56m_lQ/s320/20230709_131950.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Via dentro la selva, che sembra richiudersi intorni e sopra di noi. Purtroppo ogni pueblo ha la sua discarica a cielo aperto lungo la strada, e qui, se pure i villaggi son pochi, ben si notano i basureri... Perchè sono pieni di carcasse piò o meno decomposte di mucche e cavalli, interi.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWBQ2th1AvQe6KvLgzNHhlGzQ_MjLLeJRInPpdwjNZx7FDxBAChWHv0Zn9FL3zf6794o2N_NPlQtX1wp8CByYL5xJl4MvB3ILRHq62Z0BzUMVKOFEevt5lrk-02fuO8S0193qWRWTwoiwpPWC-Slp9IX6ZPnaSkJcD8cmwEGJ12O4m7pQ1Ae9psnrM5OI/s1209/20230709_132013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWBQ2th1AvQe6KvLgzNHhlGzQ_MjLLeJRInPpdwjNZx7FDxBAChWHv0Zn9FL3zf6794o2N_NPlQtX1wp8CByYL5xJl4MvB3ILRHq62Z0BzUMVKOFEevt5lrk-02fuO8S0193qWRWTwoiwpPWC-Slp9IX6ZPnaSkJcD8cmwEGJ12O4m7pQ1Ae9psnrM5OI/s320/20230709_132013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5yrlx9xJ4FsxMsSXH0666hdtI661KkbjKhEaNBsXcMZyd4OlfnaBX14W6iDutb5Wrt_70H5w23BtfCbdBWUJecmQWfqwo9FNFA4dNOY_EfH23zaHAlf6GUaUd1rI5yOVhVXXtor2S1cZEj39SMh4nZqgKVHoAI90HCbDCyxbkW_cjPY5bakwE-iIvLY/s1209/20230709_133949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI5yrlx9xJ4FsxMsSXH0666hdtI661KkbjKhEaNBsXcMZyd4OlfnaBX14W6iDutb5Wrt_70H5w23BtfCbdBWUJecmQWfqwo9FNFA4dNOY_EfH23zaHAlf6GUaUd1rI5yOVhVXXtor2S1cZEj39SMh4nZqgKVHoAI90HCbDCyxbkW_cjPY5bakwE-iIvLY/s320/20230709_133949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhSe-bBAZQS8B-4spKXNIMPNIBNgvd1L6sldViqmJNg-pi4MvyQVV6zHsgBWZxGXDfJCQvjpY9jfCouJ2EZQB3K--YIbiVVHC-ibTW5uu4lMdGCbdjWXrhbCv8ZJ0e3X2D10zmobY7whepqy2tszOrHNZtFEScOGB-CHyOrm4i3m3C_TiRPjBZqpWsse4/s1209/20230709_133950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhSe-bBAZQS8B-4spKXNIMPNIBNgvd1L6sldViqmJNg-pi4MvyQVV6zHsgBWZxGXDfJCQvjpY9jfCouJ2EZQB3K--YIbiVVHC-ibTW5uu4lMdGCbdjWXrhbCv8ZJ0e3X2D10zmobY7whepqy2tszOrHNZtFEScOGB-CHyOrm4i3m3C_TiRPjBZqpWsse4/s320/20230709_133950.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYDzYTudKTwdovw3vJVU0KrhQqoyloDp6GFmu2hRU9ArEgG2XqsiXm-quQl43d4AC_kFWlIAvY21r8XaM2K4Zy032gRPMeUIbLSnR9M5K8ZJ1nf6pUerS9KveaeuEOr7YCme0KAqh6ugSrJ99F4J_zUL_pspEVHJzzI3vDffHA_F0-OqOTQuy2tY_z2o/s979/20230709_133956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYDzYTudKTwdovw3vJVU0KrhQqoyloDp6GFmu2hRU9ArEgG2XqsiXm-quQl43d4AC_kFWlIAvY21r8XaM2K4Zy032gRPMeUIbLSnR9M5K8ZJ1nf6pUerS9KveaeuEOr7YCme0KAqh6ugSrJ99F4J_zUL_pspEVHJzzI3vDffHA_F0-OqOTQuy2tY_z2o/s320/20230709_133956.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Nonostante tutto è proprio qui che cominciamo a vedere gli animali tipici della riserva, che ci attraversano la strada senza fretta, spesso si fermano a guardarci e poi, come fossero vapore di linfa, spariscono nella vegetazione. Tutt'intorno è un continuo frusciare di rami e foglie, un continuo frullare d'ali e i canti e i gridi degli uccelli si sovrappongono con gran baccano. Gli avvoltoi scendono in picchiata sulla strada a papparsi serpenti e rospi giganti stiacciato dalle auto. Ma quali auto? Le pochissime che passano, stracariche di gente anche nei cassoni, oltre a una manciata di moto tutte scassate, che potano tre, quatto persone, e nessuna con il casco.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Al km90 raggiungiamo la seconda sosta pevista, Bel-ha. E' un pueblo micro, con più bestie da cortile che umani. Diventiamo presto l'attrazione principale del paese, ma sono tutti cortesi e facciamo due chiacchiere volentieri proprio davanti all'unico negozietto (che vende anche la benzina stoccata in bottiglie da litro di Gatorade).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhIvb039CwFqPNs-IclSdZ-YTLUvfvN_GYr2eZMK1Rfa2kMCOH1N23YC6vov2ITp3qaGdRPndV775m8eSev5c-WsZmxxU27Xr659avizKTCQ7dyzOHuaAib4PMcDGzk-BOifM4EmNRUpLP66na10-YWb_bGCUA7o9UG-p0TUEQfpbp5vM4TX57aL5E24/s1209/20230709_144051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhIvb039CwFqPNs-IclSdZ-YTLUvfvN_GYr2eZMK1Rfa2kMCOH1N23YC6vov2ITp3qaGdRPndV775m8eSev5c-WsZmxxU27Xr659avizKTCQ7dyzOHuaAib4PMcDGzk-BOifM4EmNRUpLP66na10-YWb_bGCUA7o9UG-p0TUEQfpbp5vM4TX57aL5E24/s320/20230709_144051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfudD6zoZ1gVIvSGhXs0SdzhSTeEqZ7dsrnYvx-S_NrKGNxhr0mUJx9BKuRJUj2RO6oY0CrIfJiBYzUD0dRFnHEoCW610xVLFi2fvER7T_lEtUpf7mKZPxz-JU_tLbhHpyRZpkc1vrtlz8vNhuiKDmFxhrJzZ13zrGcOf1i7vyl_docoqptFhsEF3RO8c/s1209/20230709_144056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfudD6zoZ1gVIvSGhXs0SdzhSTeEqZ7dsrnYvx-S_NrKGNxhr0mUJx9BKuRJUj2RO6oY0CrIfJiBYzUD0dRFnHEoCW610xVLFi2fvER7T_lEtUpf7mKZPxz-JU_tLbhHpyRZpkc1vrtlz8vNhuiKDmFxhrJzZ13zrGcOf1i7vyl_docoqptFhsEF3RO8c/s320/20230709_144056.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5__evTY3hruakoPnHZ0SX0QZZbwI0oAPyGkoT1ZcycHWGZBuWfBoqcwHeMuiKpWMxfEHQg8_omyUMQCfTv0vkfU0IWRkJzlwhZjD9THQWG2js7Lin-x1MviSg6pX39DHAMjhEOsN9W3djf5wsBnjelO3J_RtSu5GhO7wQiGCPjTAVuZp63ulUSU7uk0/s1209/20230709_144229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW5__evTY3hruakoPnHZ0SX0QZZbwI0oAPyGkoT1ZcycHWGZBuWfBoqcwHeMuiKpWMxfEHQg8_omyUMQCfTv0vkfU0IWRkJzlwhZjD9THQWG2js7Lin-x1MviSg6pX39DHAMjhEOsN9W3djf5wsBnjelO3J_RtSu5GhO7wQiGCPjTAVuZp63ulUSU7uk0/s320/20230709_144229.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBxG_On1fZ9K-T7XRup8bbc59bkuPFZLqu8mWboaixd38GvaV-B_k1YZW77hIY8FMJwFpnoAOWmHxVefES22o_rxBaA6lizQ3t77p2q-QxKRef-X2m3oV8jvhlJuynM3H1PPrut4pE6IOdQZY2CNzZdEGNFKv5ckoFzn2ol8j4oYyc0i4ZaiI9h6BRnk/s1209/20230709_144351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBxG_On1fZ9K-T7XRup8bbc59bkuPFZLqu8mWboaixd38GvaV-B_k1YZW77hIY8FMJwFpnoAOWmHxVefES22o_rxBaA6lizQ3t77p2q-QxKRef-X2m3oV8jvhlJuynM3H1PPrut4pE6IOdQZY2CNzZdEGNFKv5ckoFzn2ol8j4oYyc0i4ZaiI9h6BRnk/s320/20230709_144351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-OQkgi6kHW2VzDYYIEuzwt-CGU64v9CKTIa-gu5jyW1IHaF6lorPR0VZT1oKw6MsXD7WicLAs-t8D-Ot6wSzKc4amQgbmqg4s_19-Ar9XlOrar6xvWfNw2dJLUHYJC1FcAcNdGX4Qi75J_4LDzyUtsvLOcdHFEHjIzH2o5Ikkh8bu61pijZDPB2XP-w/s1209/20230709_144355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-OQkgi6kHW2VzDYYIEuzwt-CGU64v9CKTIa-gu5jyW1IHaF6lorPR0VZT1oKw6MsXD7WicLAs-t8D-Ot6wSzKc4amQgbmqg4s_19-Ar9XlOrar6xvWfNw2dJLUHYJC1FcAcNdGX4Qi75J_4LDzyUtsvLOcdHFEHjIzH2o5Ikkh8bu61pijZDPB2XP-w/s320/20230709_144355.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJu2nEiP7DNwUsHD5NF9N5jiMVwrv-kNMsHh9UGQA9AT2mp5AU7vJmh2oklWkDaRkTpv0mfyd1q1Y9bbvMYQ8zsH9YGzp1EVEe4strLIR2wp7ZUEaiYJDmN7jGMBPVK-4ejSsqHLIz78NgEdVaqsd-kyqDfqZpOpxJx6J7lVY1L0RHBMtaTQXlVLZ5YZE/s1209/20230709_145001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJu2nEiP7DNwUsHD5NF9N5jiMVwrv-kNMsHh9UGQA9AT2mp5AU7vJmh2oklWkDaRkTpv0mfyd1q1Y9bbvMYQ8zsH9YGzp1EVEe4strLIR2wp7ZUEaiYJDmN7jGMBPVK-4ejSsqHLIz78NgEdVaqsd-kyqDfqZpOpxJx6J7lVY1L0RHBMtaTQXlVLZ5YZE/s320/20230709_145001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUJ7Rwotejh-jM61BNdLWSGjHRoXbEOKAgUqUabTkjcZ_iJ17oyqv5OGdacs_bGkMtEJrQMYb_1ZmRwYGtfwaA01zfQqY9d0FnLv85_7GlAAvlWDJNMIqzv2IC_2GjUxR9Yv1oVnGRXjJzF3TnyQ9JjDq0zxXppHGvdWE54mLQAYT0EXn7Wbg-mkS2zY/s1209/20230709_150104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUJ7Rwotejh-jM61BNdLWSGjHRoXbEOKAgUqUabTkjcZ_iJ17oyqv5OGdacs_bGkMtEJrQMYb_1ZmRwYGtfwaA01zfQqY9d0FnLv85_7GlAAvlWDJNMIqzv2IC_2GjUxR9Yv1oVnGRXjJzF3TnyQ9JjDq0zxXppHGvdWE54mLQAYT0EXn7Wbg-mkS2zY/s320/20230709_150104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Mentre chiacchieriamo, il cielo si incupisce come sempre. Chac è puntuale anche oggi. Tuoni, fulmini, 3, 2, 1 e giù il diluvio. Ce lo prendiamo tutto, a secchiate larghe, boccheggiando sulle salite perchè piove così forte che l'acqua entra nel naso e in bocca insieme all'aria.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_wH4zxdl5pHYqZpmqTFKaGBkolAa3x69pQ9DZOAqc1gWTm8RZvXYDrKoOGuu0v7CfH4bDd-00MrxI9xUak6dUvvUUwckAJRElkF1mgRU97zaP5SBc2bl844JBdSoJkFgDpH1z3yXE9s-us_dmF6bLMM4LeQEJwazH6nWRXZL05rUCTZa6sLgGSckLhM/s1209/20230709_151734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_wH4zxdl5pHYqZpmqTFKaGBkolAa3x69pQ9DZOAqc1gWTm8RZvXYDrKoOGuu0v7CfH4bDd-00MrxI9xUak6dUvvUUwckAJRElkF1mgRU97zaP5SBc2bl844JBdSoJkFgDpH1z3yXE9s-us_dmF6bLMM4LeQEJwazH6nWRXZL05rUCTZa6sLgGSckLhM/s320/20230709_151734.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV4T0nz3ek5UqaOMIRxIAR6ilPMD_tuVCYoyF2o9ZtOLV8KtnG8zs8F0oUQpdYj8u-SQknIs32J7Bkk3wR7hnSWFzYZyi2R-Jlykl4Vtn417ipFM9556M1CKXzZOuqpJWDwU871Y-TZgKrx5fEdEZea576nwZP69PV5bYLpNH_aDhCKzRjirqLXCYMIk4/s1209/20230709_151741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV4T0nz3ek5UqaOMIRxIAR6ilPMD_tuVCYoyF2o9ZtOLV8KtnG8zs8F0oUQpdYj8u-SQknIs32J7Bkk3wR7hnSWFzYZyi2R-Jlykl4Vtn417ipFM9556M1CKXzZOuqpJWDwU871Y-TZgKrx5fEdEZea576nwZP69PV5bYLpNH_aDhCKzRjirqLXCYMIk4/s320/20230709_151741.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja5eFEryMLhHJp6bi6NWDrqRF3bMFRbf50snV8Dp4heUefDKPmav7zZLzWKFXhkDQwRWb2OdoUBME8xGM_e6ky0vK4f5z8kl2r6TCpdV4VeJLtVzco5QHSS5ut1i-POK2h7B0W0S9dzwcLB9V2OT34fDQWudMfu_X1qYKbmKuQndutgmYxUGpFDN7M8kc/s1209/20230709_155407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja5eFEryMLhHJp6bi6NWDrqRF3bMFRbf50snV8Dp4heUefDKPmav7zZLzWKFXhkDQwRWb2OdoUBME8xGM_e6ky0vK4f5z8kl2r6TCpdV4VeJLtVzco5QHSS5ut1i-POK2h7B0W0S9dzwcLB9V2OT34fDQWudMfu_X1qYKbmKuQndutgmYxUGpFDN7M8kc/s320/20230709_155407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Procediamo così, nuotando, risalendo a fatica la corrente come salmoni. Animali e piante della riserva sono in festa e gioiscono di questa benedizione che cala dal cielo e fa grassa la terra. Noi un po'meno... Più che altro perchè siamo stanchi e ogni piccolo inconveniente si aggiunge alla fatica di gambe già sfibrate e testa bollita. Gli ultimi 30km non passano mai. Guardo il ciclocomputer di continuo, e sembra fermo. Il paesaggio intorno pure, corridoio nel verde. I muscoli sono sfilacciati. Ci fermiamo un momento sotto alla tettoia della fermata del bus (che qui da anni non passa, comunque) di Nueva vida halatun.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IdXF8AuhpDYSI7VrDO0NrLGvsC9ULEw7FQS6EKQ2NZs8DuxupBYrKtpBdNTCAwDQs1nDEgtU0sqojj0G56lXlpdalisaBuM_F2TzzfIahJuGoDfLEo-SG_-JEQ2M-4SkS2aQWMnV_5oeRX0zcvTDpBRKfSDeIlz1bjSdDzU486D99ggYAqxYLHEgVwY/s979/20230709_161533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IdXF8AuhpDYSI7VrDO0NrLGvsC9ULEw7FQS6EKQ2NZs8DuxupBYrKtpBdNTCAwDQs1nDEgtU0sqojj0G56lXlpdalisaBuM_F2TzzfIahJuGoDfLEo-SG_-JEQ2M-4SkS2aQWMnV_5oeRX0zcvTDpBRKfSDeIlz1bjSdDzU486D99ggYAqxYLHEgVwY/s320/20230709_161533.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Ripartiamo per l'ultima tirata. Contiamo i km uno ad uno come grani di rosario. Io ormai proseguo più per rabbia e cattiveria che per volontà di proseguire. Davvero non ce la facciamo più, tra salite, vento e ingiurie meteorologiche. Poi il telefono inizia a impazzire di notifiche: è tornato internet. Il paese è vicino.</div><div style="text-align: left;">E infatti eccoci a Zoh Laguna, dove facciamo il giro dei tre cantoni prima di trovare una struttura che ci ospiti. In una, addirittura, non ci rispondono perchè è in corso la Messa e tutti i dipendenti stanno partecipando.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzA0zLd8J5RUuCm-_5y6v3vusfe-vziPy6Bo71L55btcXkVW46xikc4Sv0wGROnrv_okEOhEclpXEt65iq_MSynOLIDoQY8f9y_gb9HTdt4aYIzB__dKX9bSkDAvak1G_F3k2XucomzBFcg1DB9B0Pv3tXPEyjIAQLluN5mFa-qX1kPgZ8nOGrEKMfcfs/s1209/20230709_180214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzA0zLd8J5RUuCm-_5y6v3vusfe-vziPy6Bo71L55btcXkVW46xikc4Sv0wGROnrv_okEOhEclpXEt65iq_MSynOLIDoQY8f9y_gb9HTdt4aYIzB__dKX9bSkDAvak1G_F3k2XucomzBFcg1DB9B0Pv3tXPEyjIAQLluN5mFa-qX1kPgZ8nOGrEKMfcfs/s320/20230709_180214.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1I7OuCX71UNhOlszTi04wbxFpleUJsBUhUXsrF34iTgohmlkGNavzxaWDYjlOpxKnfpGW3kw4SLaq5yZn3v3x-sOY2PGMZ0HWrkMJ4KCR7tnmQgM6MGZTED0t8hRZufU9-HgG33K1B_yySSY9DLrr43ne6WQqHovLPWO42XcD2DPF7mqhBUkFNb0C2U/s1209/20230709_180233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1I7OuCX71UNhOlszTi04wbxFpleUJsBUhUXsrF34iTgohmlkGNavzxaWDYjlOpxKnfpGW3kw4SLaq5yZn3v3x-sOY2PGMZ0HWrkMJ4KCR7tnmQgM6MGZTED0t8hRZufU9-HgG33K1B_yySSY9DLrr43ne6WQqHovLPWO42XcD2DPF7mqhBUkFNb0C2U/s320/20230709_180233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQNI1UG1N9zHDnokRowrj4CPewVFIkAMBeGg9E9gGrsRFWsIvvq4k1nKvq7-ZLIMABNsUUFVR1K2T_vOtsBdhwLqB1cpMhDbBWV5bWmldawpkrjtLciiFMYj1oEKJs8wwDTv5guFybrPPGX5gUC1lVPq3xsmBJAPoZAFW5aHT7Ohpo4oCWvkpp4pj1bc/s1209/20230709_180251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIQNI1UG1N9zHDnokRowrj4CPewVFIkAMBeGg9E9gGrsRFWsIvvq4k1nKvq7-ZLIMABNsUUFVR1K2T_vOtsBdhwLqB1cpMhDbBWV5bWmldawpkrjtLciiFMYj1oEKJs8wwDTv5guFybrPPGX5gUC1lVPq3xsmBJAPoZAFW5aHT7Ohpo4oCWvkpp4pj1bc/s320/20230709_180251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv3h0Urg8nnuUnxVLAw1VnqvYpDyjtXQJnZoLpSvCvNHvk6VOpB25p1hFSqmb9rKXKkuFwdmsjtMt-33lnp2ZfT8bHOHG__13nsvEYyxSIST8gKHMqcQgEMnBYVkMuTco2A79g74jxRXGTuR60aWrJ4qCyhSDDggXFLwzlpOeQGCyysDZUvRpMA0OFkB4/s1209/20230709_180258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv3h0Urg8nnuUnxVLAw1VnqvYpDyjtXQJnZoLpSvCvNHvk6VOpB25p1hFSqmb9rKXKkuFwdmsjtMt-33lnp2ZfT8bHOHG__13nsvEYyxSIST8gKHMqcQgEMnBYVkMuTco2A79g74jxRXGTuR60aWrJ4qCyhSDDggXFLwzlpOeQGCyysDZUvRpMA0OFkB4/s320/20230709_180258.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la chiesa</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Alla fine troviamo una camera a El viajero. Costa poco, è piena di insetti enormi e ci piace assai.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNIikWPiYfV5Fxx7S7FWf4_zWr47ijBpz-LTu5QXyoQWn5r_gH9Jvf_RX3RFBTa3_tintIJMpmspgrwxhaMkdDvxJje9SAlTT-XMkpJbqnffqK6_hCq_Zjp7lq28Jfq2XbB2znmxl5iwZ_txxIuxNhORXLtziUYqA6AvhwTxVax0tORSOz3EmkLDCmnV0/s1209/20230709_181802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNIikWPiYfV5Fxx7S7FWf4_zWr47ijBpz-LTu5QXyoQWn5r_gH9Jvf_RX3RFBTa3_tintIJMpmspgrwxhaMkdDvxJje9SAlTT-XMkpJbqnffqK6_hCq_Zjp7lq28Jfq2XbB2znmxl5iwZ_txxIuxNhORXLtziUYqA6AvhwTxVax0tORSOz3EmkLDCmnV0/s320/20230709_181802.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQIIFKu1ljkSsqb1GCrRvtYZnWoyNLunJRIc8gWImnU2Q9HestEBhDHg-LHXb0ZDfxI9ZdxKPjgddH9T870Llqylq-YR_rgcm-Z1kM_fCUnaMwC0PYGYx-Zt7xoH96KIBXytb4NRpOk9dckp3erLA3_y6YA0M1fdxsGY5iz06rl9Skw7XNBzIAgVPuYQ/s1209/20230709_181812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQIIFKu1ljkSsqb1GCrRvtYZnWoyNLunJRIc8gWImnU2Q9HestEBhDHg-LHXb0ZDfxI9ZdxKPjgddH9T870Llqylq-YR_rgcm-Z1kM_fCUnaMwC0PYGYx-Zt7xoH96KIBXytb4NRpOk9dckp3erLA3_y6YA0M1fdxsGY5iz06rl9Skw7XNBzIAgVPuYQ/s320/20230709_181812.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrB4Cgjog6aoKjEbmCy3j1HDlb1hJ-dr7Nm1sTvX8z7X9FfKjoAgBQUy3c8CyKDZrySCeIcHvMfv9rXxrIjj8J3mdClT0zCN-pxciawLYXugBwt0ZM3_Ay-xKDqWdACET9WaB890JHQYzxHDGMJ1J7wRki9a9FSVAdiknZx9ghtCwNVmgsJI5FpAUWPU/s1209/20230709_181815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrB4Cgjog6aoKjEbmCy3j1HDlb1hJ-dr7Nm1sTvX8z7X9FfKjoAgBQUy3c8CyKDZrySCeIcHvMfv9rXxrIjj8J3mdClT0zCN-pxciawLYXugBwt0ZM3_Ay-xKDqWdACET9WaB890JHQYzxHDGMJ1J7wRki9a9FSVAdiknZx9ghtCwNVmgsJI5FpAUWPU/s320/20230709_181815.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Per cena dobbiamo riattraversare il micropaese, tra polli appolliati sugli alberi e pappagallini che cantano, tra cani randagi e ragazzi al parco che giocano a calcio e fumano erba. L'unico ristorante aperto è questa palapa agghindata a festa, con pochi avventori e un servizio ben lento. Fanno per lo più cucina italiana (e Gigi osa una pizza, errando: la pasta è una grande grande tortilla alta un millimetro). Io sto su pollo e patate con salsine deliziose, al mango, al peperoncino, ai funghi. Buonissimo! Durante la cena tutto il pueblo cade più volte nel buio più nero a causa di reiterati black out. Va via anche la connessione internet, ma si vede una stellata pazzesca.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji4RlWwhqiFxMTs9PFtYGWMmSmhLIlv2YIUMVWUewLzsU8VKaXvDawNt5WiXE44hfd1_F5GbyX6o4Z-qVdn-IrWKd1WZuRX_6vDfNDXYqaBeo9lVdPW02WOI_oKMwwqpz1IFFrdFbPPiqLkJM2cdp3ILWHhHVYGbdJdJGbHESvuS_URYtT3HpjoNYo5Cc/s1209/20230709_193223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji4RlWwhqiFxMTs9PFtYGWMmSmhLIlv2YIUMVWUewLzsU8VKaXvDawNt5WiXE44hfd1_F5GbyX6o4Z-qVdn-IrWKd1WZuRX_6vDfNDXYqaBeo9lVdPW02WOI_oKMwwqpz1IFFrdFbPPiqLkJM2cdp3ILWHhHVYGbdJdJGbHESvuS_URYtT3HpjoNYo5Cc/s320/20230709_193223.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimktzqscC0hEanzEe67SVeLfwlMfZrQOiXmbh8gAZ8eN57lhVYrfjayFj8_F90bjpOGEtPaDWXI8yJWPYgA5IBQ9HIfxeYro7AXXQT2DPHRrZzlARDNlcuImOnaH9zbwGBnwKKhUPIz8MCdBeZlYxs316byL4WHp4d2A-Y3-_NwuTCWHtGc8Z3SBP2aus/s1209/20230709_195034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimktzqscC0hEanzEe67SVeLfwlMfZrQOiXmbh8gAZ8eN57lhVYrfjayFj8_F90bjpOGEtPaDWXI8yJWPYgA5IBQ9HIfxeYro7AXXQT2DPHRrZzlARDNlcuImOnaH9zbwGBnwKKhUPIz8MCdBeZlYxs316byL4WHp4d2A-Y3-_NwuTCWHtGc8Z3SBP2aus/s320/20230709_195034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBT4u07QVoxrhEXEu4C806gX9QavgN1COFI83sVQ2fi6k8T4Mozd9zBOd05c10gO3PSbhTvozMQmXCSRLSaYuQqOaKXojX87e6bX5ULZ6CEQ8q_sPUFX8bGfezaMUIUt-M1x_5M8atedS9sJZXhc1rkKcD2BU9qbH-8tLdBqeI1MQtrvRdCHyXg9wBgY/s1209/20230709_195047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBT4u07QVoxrhEXEu4C806gX9QavgN1COFI83sVQ2fi6k8T4Mozd9zBOd05c10gO3PSbhTvozMQmXCSRLSaYuQqOaKXojX87e6bX5ULZ6CEQ8q_sPUFX8bGfezaMUIUt-M1x_5M8atedS9sJZXhc1rkKcD2BU9qbH-8tLdBqeI1MQtrvRdCHyXg9wBgY/s320/20230709_195047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Torniamo quindi in camera, in un'aria quasi fresca, e, dopo aver sfrattato ragni, cavallette e altri coinquilini ingombranti, ci concediamo una vera mexporcheria, i biscotti con marshmellows comprati per via. Sono eccellenti!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA75ZIz8xA3omFIwxuduIApOJhRVy7ZAV4xMNJMgJe0d3Xd4iFIY-x1TofMG-NsxnS2Xsi0_9jpcpFWhubZMdwHnQAdzbN4ecQVnmBROrafNahP-FB7bqZfp-0MHaeQal-H5KfVP5VfoChZgMC1w8DPNWfjnXyu2rvwGV0-uBHOlecgMjlfTRqRyKVkF4/s1209/20230709_212656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA75ZIz8xA3omFIwxuduIApOJhRVy7ZAV4xMNJMgJe0d3Xd4iFIY-x1TofMG-NsxnS2Xsi0_9jpcpFWhubZMdwHnQAdzbN4ecQVnmBROrafNahP-FB7bqZfp-0MHaeQal-H5KfVP5VfoChZgMC1w8DPNWfjnXyu2rvwGV0-uBHOlecgMjlfTRqRyKVkF4/s320/20230709_212656.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Domani scenderemo a Xpujil e ci avvicineremo al sito archeologico di Calakmul, e quelli intorno. Se troviamo le giuste coincidenze, potremmo visitarlo già domani in giornata. Altrimenti rimanderemo al giorno successivo. E' lui il grande protagonista di questa sezione del viaggio. E' per lui che ci siamo spinti fin qui, nel cuore della selva, fin quasi al confine con il Guatemala.</div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-78808027058946209682023-07-07T08:51:00.004+02:002023-07-07T08:51:50.399+02:0013-15. Uxmal e Campeche. Giaguari, monsoni, danze e meraviglie dal passato. Un primo vero incontro con il Messico<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ky29Q7ioWdsLp-ptDBccpfhC29HffuHCKio7ILEicGWeDrMgsAXxJyH-wvmMy_WXacWoSM91YW4gb-HC3lGAw86xAVlp75RVWPTXyuo_s1zi-Ai_Sy4R6CbNid_9zIWa_15mIdLq9-2vuRi3NN6Lszqc-EHTNzthieoOvuotYG_PIGWbKsOjPu0g1J8/s4032/20230705_083920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ky29Q7ioWdsLp-ptDBccpfhC29HffuHCKio7ILEicGWeDrMgsAXxJyH-wvmMy_WXacWoSM91YW4gb-HC3lGAw86xAVlp75RVWPTXyuo_s1zi-Ai_Sy4R6CbNid_9zIWa_15mIdLq9-2vuRi3NN6Lszqc-EHTNzthieoOvuotYG_PIGWbKsOjPu0g1J8/w640-h480/20230705_083920.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHYf8zx6zCxlHcFGYqTkhYz0IWlxsjWhI0i8fS0n89hzCFtYNfYrGt_ruTSKuGU-PQmZVnwa7bUVocBewVX2Psv9uyi6AZctRGs3hd-F9KFTDc2chAX6OrkkYH_kLlzwrUg9ofYgRWZXJ-Eg4oge1V2XCUrWI7ogytUqjBj1qRklqMw1vkcrq9A-ProY/s1209/20230706_101301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHYf8zx6zCxlHcFGYqTkhYz0IWlxsjWhI0i8fS0n89hzCFtYNfYrGt_ruTSKuGU-PQmZVnwa7bUVocBewVX2Psv9uyi6AZctRGs3hd-F9KFTDc2chAX6OrkkYH_kLlzwrUg9ofYgRWZXJ-Eg4oge1V2XCUrWI7ogytUqjBj1qRklqMw1vkcrq9A-ProY/w640-h480/20230706_101301.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCs0qGrdufrEnHfZiFd4gKysptTOpcaP788r1OhJ7-opmK0pPO9JGXH0dhej5QGGFGvIeAWL8qWxjgduPO0TW7jb7mctJNdFQP4NFWHEmmK6bxNJAX-B-TUg8pW8TI_RJqJbFwR55c50gOfZQ854CJwmqVfGdPLWvxkmvXnM6NIRAJmpwAjTblqWiyST0/s1209/20230706_191234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCs0qGrdufrEnHfZiFd4gKysptTOpcaP788r1OhJ7-opmK0pPO9JGXH0dhej5QGGFGvIeAWL8qWxjgduPO0TW7jb7mctJNdFQP4NFWHEmmK6bxNJAX-B-TUg8pW8TI_RJqJbFwR55c50gOfZQ854CJwmqVfGdPLWvxkmvXnM6NIRAJmpwAjTblqWiyST0/w640-h480/20230706_191234.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZb-F8gXVsXkmoNdlku-GXVJsunAbj7bxiTCUfW917wmQpJ4vyY3oVS_5vQZezMp0hnqF75cPdPnpnoGqX5-65CfThJgy0VLYC1zwKTDwVUGDatsovIvMavwNVzvtNzRkrkhE0BW5VETsyNi4jVtfilfaDAtZ-Ilgv7e0jbSDb2LQlGfpA-EaUbadMyY/s4032/20230705_092934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1860" data-original-width="4032" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZb-F8gXVsXkmoNdlku-GXVJsunAbj7bxiTCUfW917wmQpJ4vyY3oVS_5vQZezMp0hnqF75cPdPnpnoGqX5-65CfThJgy0VLYC1zwKTDwVUGDatsovIvMavwNVzvtNzRkrkhE0BW5VETsyNi4jVtfilfaDAtZ-Ilgv7e0jbSDb2LQlGfpA-EaUbadMyY/w640-h296/20230705_092934.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJGgPNHVC0Hppk2LQuuCtYYNuh4TPZ5yD6mqKx8TFJkFuQLdBMZwcf5mn-fbMBIkLBlGzscuUlLdDHEZpeNJ5y502Wn0dGf-jyxRNssDqRyXz_5gZJZ4bZdpgfnkEsKnR0smQ5dKXIWOnjUlYBt7g4mjm-DQ_rnSEyzHWhYSbaxFsYRzaQk09zHJ4GgQ/s979/20230706_183420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJGgPNHVC0Hppk2LQuuCtYYNuh4TPZ5yD6mqKx8TFJkFuQLdBMZwcf5mn-fbMBIkLBlGzscuUlLdDHEZpeNJ5y502Wn0dGf-jyxRNssDqRyXz_5gZJZ4bZdpgfnkEsKnR0smQ5dKXIWOnjUlYBt7g4mjm-DQ_rnSEyzHWhYSbaxFsYRzaQk09zHJ4GgQ/w640-h480/20230706_183420.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tVJi32XSTbBic4c-HUfUNGfbTp8Q__4Rwku3t7XWKTfr0qXY_90QNq9OeXEX1dxtWQ6DdQtKDsuUmOcKyhXB1xlNyXuNR_ufW8cqMT_PHgcK7l4c-IR9t86mFl4fDaZklgkxTc0QtzTCnlkL7PBmPFdEjKKkTcbw6Rnan1Ua4Plcu4ofBCRelgem3Mk/s4032/20230705_113305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5tVJi32XSTbBic4c-HUfUNGfbTp8Q__4Rwku3t7XWKTfr0qXY_90QNq9OeXEX1dxtWQ6DdQtKDsuUmOcKyhXB1xlNyXuNR_ufW8cqMT_PHgcK7l4c-IR9t86mFl4fDaZklgkxTc0QtzTCnlkL7PBmPFdEjKKkTcbw6Rnan1Ua4Plcu4ofBCRelgem3Mk/w640-h480/20230705_113305.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheP4FmofCaG8Eh129xxBDk_5fZ98n3T2pRhyzDQGdXgCxEYb3VWMIruRWohzWpZMxCnvStyc3nLCMDiVPi21J7RPTvWofW_kRsVZuaMprQhdTmKwpyfX_Iz8wniudyhoSkUDXHXNu3912G4DHRalNAli10vEPEvXVbf9QcmY8nxkAvHc1dy8F5Siu-V10/s4032/20230705_141230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheP4FmofCaG8Eh129xxBDk_5fZ98n3T2pRhyzDQGdXgCxEYb3VWMIruRWohzWpZMxCnvStyc3nLCMDiVPi21J7RPTvWofW_kRsVZuaMprQhdTmKwpyfX_Iz8wniudyhoSkUDXHXNu3912G4DHRalNAli10vEPEvXVbf9QcmY8nxkAvHc1dy8F5Siu-V10/w640-h480/20230705_141230.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">4/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Mérida-Uxmal</div><div style="text-align: left;">82km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La giornata inizia sotto ai migliori auspici: ha smesso di piovere già da ieri sera, le strade sono quasi asciutte e il sole c'è, ma velato, quindi non morde. Gigi sta meglio e vuol provare a pedalare, nonostante avessi già predisposto tutto per un suo trasferimento in bus. Insomma, sembra che la sfiga oggi voglia lasciarci in pace. Facciamo colazione in camera con tortillas spalmate di marmellata di fragola o miele, e, chiuse le borse, siamo pronti per buttarci in strada. Scendendo notiamo due cose: la prima è che mamma gatta, a bordo piscina, ha catturato un ratto gigantesco, e sta mostrando ai suoi cuccioli il da farsi. Speedy Gonzales, stavolta, è stato troppo lento.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJRBCqoalgJssJWNE85ONz8d7-ZwdwZEI2WDtDG00cs_k_tCCdQ4UDN8Y8ojU367veo4BEKqpaf3h5JnqRt1SO3mswGWw3o2dw2-ZIoAQDazoJEgGsFYGv2JJkmD5pffFiq3RajGOaCZqpx_VW7Y0B3Ie5ouRBIGAG52cem2lm65MD66aTw45vBCr9aU/s1209/20230704_083645.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPJRBCqoalgJssJWNE85ONz8d7-ZwdwZEI2WDtDG00cs_k_tCCdQ4UDN8Y8ojU367veo4BEKqpaf3h5JnqRt1SO3mswGWw3o2dw2-ZIoAQDazoJEgGsFYGv2JJkmD5pffFiq3RajGOaCZqpx_VW7Y0B3Ie5ouRBIGAG52cem2lm65MD66aTw45vBCr9aU/s320/20230704_083645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRgXHTGK3FJHORpNf6uSP6u6DnbyAdghvhBkvyG0pZGjU5rAMwS7hYH02yt1yzRzY2DrhN7ZS_dm5Vcsae4h30woTRlRZiqcl0ARrWbIsnfss8PlgMX3D4jJFN_XydMWHjbM6HdxOk835pILOHFnX5VGVFMJ21IXqCXZ38xA2Fr9qapCJ1ufG6mjdo9k/s1209/20230704_083915.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuRgXHTGK3FJHORpNf6uSP6u6DnbyAdghvhBkvyG0pZGjU5rAMwS7hYH02yt1yzRzY2DrhN7ZS_dm5Vcsae4h30woTRlRZiqcl0ARrWbIsnfss8PlgMX3D4jJFN_XydMWHjbM6HdxOk835pILOHFnX5VGVFMJ21IXqCXZ38xA2Fr9qapCJ1ufG6mjdo9k/s320/20230704_083915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: right;"></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La seconda è che sul muro della doccia della piscina, accanto al gabinetto, in bella mostra, ci sono 4 piccole lapidi scritte a mano, che ricordano qualcuno morto giovane (1 e 4 anni) e qualcuno meno giovane, negli anni '80. Gigi è convinto che sian pietre a ricordo dei gatti di casa defunti. Io non credo proprio. Son bambini e amici. Mi sembra abbastanza normale, qui, prendere la morte non poi troppo sul serio, e trattarla come si dovrebbe, ovvero come qualcosa di naturale e parte integrante della vita. Comunque è la prima volta che vedo una doccia da piscina con stele funeraria annessa.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJphqJl2ySm2OqrCbrIq4lp8canqgLSFla-Lwk1BZfI2kcaqCTYCiQUpKVQUN4KILkV21u_P2Rr6OPsmsnbmOCZmmLwMB0i-9NJDvw2vpIPvQ62slJ4usV_zi0XHLNadQa6gEYZ6s81hxlY4JJcOtmkSTrv2EZaclBtUJRuCcLn-rtRpRFD5WS8IKf1v0/s1209/20230704_083853.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJphqJl2ySm2OqrCbrIq4lp8canqgLSFla-Lwk1BZfI2kcaqCTYCiQUpKVQUN4KILkV21u_P2Rr6OPsmsnbmOCZmmLwMB0i-9NJDvw2vpIPvQ62slJ4usV_zi0XHLNadQa6gEYZ6s81hxlY4JJcOtmkSTrv2EZaclBtUJRuCcLn-rtRpRFD5WS8IKf1v0/s320/20230704_083853.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0w3E7YCwDLYD2S3hxpuVw0_ccIsv6sxjKsvRGLUNfjZkAZ7ubmF4DjNimt38EhtzZ0pT6JSbkXmmcfqQ0JMBGFrjzDlJnmnIiXgcJlSSXNr8gG5C7hNVkdTQ6Jji16m5G5Qoq_G8Ltt2uFoz1nVbCmfaNWu-aUweH9Sc9J6TYpnT0Sa3Pnwzz5JBmdVs/s1209/20230704_083859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0w3E7YCwDLYD2S3hxpuVw0_ccIsv6sxjKsvRGLUNfjZkAZ7ubmF4DjNimt38EhtzZ0pT6JSbkXmmcfqQ0JMBGFrjzDlJnmnIiXgcJlSSXNr8gG5C7hNVkdTQ6Jji16m5G5Qoq_G8Ltt2uFoz1nVbCmfaNWu-aUweH9Sc9J6TYpnT0Sa3Pnwzz5JBmdVs/s320/20230704_083859.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Oggi l'assetto è anche per me quello della Ruta Maya, nel senso della rottamaia, con calzini stesi e scarpe a prender aria ed asciugare. Non oso immaginare le facce che faranno i receptionist dell'hotel dove arriveremo stasera, che è un posto un po' fighetto, un po' di lusso. Ho dovuto optare a malincuore per un alloggio del genere perchè a Uxmal non c'è un paese vero e proprio, ma solo il sito archeologico e qualche resort intorno. Il nostro sponsorizza una Spa con sauna di birra e altre boiate, cosa che mi han fatta tornare spesso a ricontrollare l'esistenza di altre strutture un po' meno trappola per turisti. Ho trovato un campeggio, proprio all'ingresso del sito. Ma non ha i servizi igienici (e Gigi non è nelle condizioni di privarsene) e, soprattutto, è riservato solo a camperisti e simili. E' vietato alle tende per la presenza di giaguari! Quindi siamo ricaduti sull'hotel fighetto, che costa come da noi un due stelle marcio, ma è il concetto che mi disturba. Va be', è il primo e spero e anche l'ultimo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjjGDmJIFogKbQS4TyVp4lTiuS8J1cB2QP6ru60fiPAsiTq_rci_IAJ8QUL109VOiWBYI0JsdJYVOqsPui2GZ-N9fMcSTy_tJzebKmL5CZ2jlMi1PYxOyZRnUMPoSaDI9Sz0Ghprd6KJy58Nz0Pwl1AKdAbUmuVU6YR5xLJKZdhXAAi0giwdyBsMgxLI/s1209/20230704_084635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjjGDmJIFogKbQS4TyVp4lTiuS8J1cB2QP6ru60fiPAsiTq_rci_IAJ8QUL109VOiWBYI0JsdJYVOqsPui2GZ-N9fMcSTy_tJzebKmL5CZ2jlMi1PYxOyZRnUMPoSaDI9Sz0Ghprd6KJy58Nz0Pwl1AKdAbUmuVU6YR5xLJKZdhXAAi0giwdyBsMgxLI/s320/20230704_084635.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Iniziamo a pedalare e dobbiamo affrontare il traffico del centro di Mérida. Non è pericoloso, perchè la guida è tranquilla e rispettosa, ma rallenta tantissimo. Ci sono diecimila semafori e code intasate di motorini, mototaxi e tricicli cargo. In più Gigi, che è indebolito dalla malattia e dal fatto che i giorni scorsi non ha praticamente mangiato, deve spesso fermarsi a buttar giù un po' di miele. Poi, però, tutto a un tratto, le strade si fanno più larghe e il traffico si scioglie. Ci troviamo, inizialmente, sui soliti stradoni che circondano le città. Larghi, dritti, piatti, noiosetti. Qui, però, a volte si incrociano capre al pascolo nelle aiuole tra corsie.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlSDpkHkfJrc-8GN7PslVnq_D3wEHHMvPM3pKazA9MsUViJbhBM4cRFsFV5Q9EsfWFzDPvVa5wXHRRDFrvvzIDglCofv3pJNdCbFgFEyyeD1kcgtn77Wi-_4bPMnVUkfHt2Y6yVTPVO4DgxDRb8CxDRPcdm3ldkXPmtaST64J3m5Y68h4K5taCGkhM2vc/s1209/20230704_094542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlSDpkHkfJrc-8GN7PslVnq_D3wEHHMvPM3pKazA9MsUViJbhBM4cRFsFV5Q9EsfWFzDPvVa5wXHRRDFrvvzIDglCofv3pJNdCbFgFEyyeD1kcgtn77Wi-_4bPMnVUkfHt2Y6yVTPVO4DgxDRb8CxDRPcdm3ldkXPmtaST64J3m5Y68h4K5taCGkhM2vc/s320/20230704_094542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBvav8uLS15nmFMHfXWGSDjstF2BARQGLX8Jd0AuCKjc1S4L0Jm2T7JIdmh9TWuZdgF5t7VHpp5NAE_SlrFNje8qa5AkkiT3Hw_LutDzjVk4V6GZGpw0zVG2G1yVYwvKNVoX_tRtebWv7l_Ql8C2jrwCNSdecT-6gRR4f8Gvf2AnQ6mw7MQqhZaCLUrQ/s1209/20230704_094544.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBvav8uLS15nmFMHfXWGSDjstF2BARQGLX8Jd0AuCKjc1S4L0Jm2T7JIdmh9TWuZdgF5t7VHpp5NAE_SlrFNje8qa5AkkiT3Hw_LutDzjVk4V6GZGpw0zVG2G1yVYwvKNVoX_tRtebWv7l_Ql8C2jrwCNSdecT-6gRR4f8Gvf2AnQ6mw7MQqhZaCLUrQ/s320/20230704_094544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYuOaHB-Ker8lBtMj9Y80oHM6VJucVfhdIXvu3VNIP760HnBqpKb1MDQVC-1hYieY1JA7YOQ6CU25CmsYOPSqXIkhSi397rHAJQ1Shj0Ver9OxnjCnX7FRWZmThuEOK6p6sRQOvX1JAgzGht-SjqrJeDZv66Hldgpsv9OoTFkH__fJiG4k5vgJtfhqNjc/s1209/20230704_094547.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYuOaHB-Ker8lBtMj9Y80oHM6VJucVfhdIXvu3VNIP760HnBqpKb1MDQVC-1hYieY1JA7YOQ6CU25CmsYOPSqXIkhSi397rHAJQ1Shj0Ver9OxnjCnX7FRWZmThuEOK6p6sRQOvX1JAgzGht-SjqrJeDZv66Hldgpsv9OoTFkH__fJiG4k5vgJtfhqNjc/s320/20230704_094547.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si pedala controvento e in un clima molto più fresco del solito, perchè il sole è velato da nuvole sempre più dense. Siamo nella stagione delle pioggie, e qui, in tarda mattina o, al più, nel primo pomeriggio, si aprono le cateratte del cielo. Puntuali, infallibili. E' il dio maya Chac, il serpente celeste, che governa la pioggia e non manca mai al suo appuntamento. Intorno la selva freme di uccelli di ogni genere e iguane, ma pure di tartarughe e altri animali che vediamo solo spiaccicati sull'asfalto (son cani? Son scimmie? Son coati? Non si capisce).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4WRkPrmNzPfsoAarRCIemmBZ-TLZnSwl9E2LlnO9soAQqNDojd7Bxk3ro3M8JX1o-cBQyxQ4AiJf3M7v-PFCMp2ddPImQ2Pdc6iFblWkYCL_tcpMDnR-_Qmz918fm3fVo1pjn12T0uPXmHb4SV7OpBY0OxEAqdcsGn9RAbIbJwhC0o0j9rQMZS0J-h6w/s1209/20230704_111142.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4WRkPrmNzPfsoAarRCIemmBZ-TLZnSwl9E2LlnO9soAQqNDojd7Bxk3ro3M8JX1o-cBQyxQ4AiJf3M7v-PFCMp2ddPImQ2Pdc6iFblWkYCL_tcpMDnR-_Qmz918fm3fVo1pjn12T0uPXmHb4SV7OpBY0OxEAqdcsGn9RAbIbJwhC0o0j9rQMZS0J-h6w/s320/20230704_111142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Passiamo il pueblo di Xtepén, dove tutto tace e pare quasi abbandonato, non fosse che nei cortili ci sono roghi di immondizia assolutamente salutari e non inquinanti, considerando che brucia di tutto, dai copertoni alle bottiglie di plastica. Poi ci addentriamo in Yaxcopoil alla ricerca di qualcosa di fresco da bere, ma l'unico che offre un tale servizio è un anziano che ha messo il suo vetusto e ammuffito frigorifero di casa sul marciapiede, ha scritto su un foglio "jugos" e ci si è seduto accanto, su uno sgabello. Non ce la sentiamo di chiedere a lui.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3aY6raFBVNzuw9BcCfZrrBH-bdKmHC70rIcqOn_pnb7sPLrtLU23HnsbrIVC0XEhQNRa8YIUIzG6RN-1moJDkGfL8y2lFl-d5mu8NK5kEX4v_2ykw3lR8tSFEsBxF4HFTVDnSMzymbB3WksTC804Z9znsbha3rKKEKXvTnuVfOMK-j8x9dg02g5Ttuw/s1209/20230704_111422.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3aY6raFBVNzuw9BcCfZrrBH-bdKmHC70rIcqOn_pnb7sPLrtLU23HnsbrIVC0XEhQNRa8YIUIzG6RN-1moJDkGfL8y2lFl-d5mu8NK5kEX4v_2ykw3lR8tSFEsBxF4HFTVDnSMzymbB3WksTC804Z9znsbha3rKKEKXvTnuVfOMK-j8x9dg02g5Ttuw/s320/20230704_111422.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGr7zIjX8fllX-_np3H9fL81dUYKayh96I2bhrRVouVyBFbfPxe0jj9uXyP-nqTWZK72IdWD-gp0JaAex3eRfYNAJooC8YjuDyoBq2e_ebp0ii44gSRr_GwOOTbXGlLO2XcSoB4jlsXIxJeEyaMG0MnmgELmx15U-v7Le7gZi9odKj-EsGOiBMnVGw8M/s1209/20230704_111721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKGr7zIjX8fllX-_np3H9fL81dUYKayh96I2bhrRVouVyBFbfPxe0jj9uXyP-nqTWZK72IdWD-gp0JaAex3eRfYNAJooC8YjuDyoBq2e_ebp0ii44gSRr_GwOOTbXGlLO2XcSoB4jlsXIxJeEyaMG0MnmgELmx15U-v7Le7gZi9odKj-EsGOiBMnVGw8M/s320/20230704_111721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9jroqR0uZ87hshv3809cjVIy75kiyNr3MFPdKfUtiQyQKhlfdPdrOv6YbhVhGLpAhSWhMhMq1YfgblhiwzAY0a97sqeHAEt4lURWIhB9OGCKY-viawIy_mCNLp1KYStWbitmpz_laVR_42lK0K_IlvXK8aB9MDgBQPpYzjqrQOGqDXd0d1RdJjfP45Kk/s1209/20230704_111728.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9jroqR0uZ87hshv3809cjVIy75kiyNr3MFPdKfUtiQyQKhlfdPdrOv6YbhVhGLpAhSWhMhMq1YfgblhiwzAY0a97sqeHAEt4lURWIhB9OGCKY-viawIy_mCNLp1KYStWbitmpz_laVR_42lK0K_IlvXK8aB9MDgBQPpYzjqrQOGqDXd0d1RdJjfP45Kk/s320/20230704_111728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Da qui in poi non incrociamo più paesi; ce ne sono, ma lontani dalla strada, nel folto della selva. Sono segnalati da cartelli che indicano strade sterrate che si perdono nella vegetazione, e dalle immancabili pensiline dei bus in cemento, dove c'è sempre qualcuno che aspetta. Non si sa da dove venga, quanto abbia camminato per arrivare lì, quanto aspetterà, se passerà un pullman. Non si sa nulla, se non che bisogna aver pazienza. D'un tratto il vento si fa più forte, le nubi si addensano, scure, e inizia a piovere. Lo scroscio è violentissimo, ma dura poco. Ci infradicia completamente, perchè piove a secchiate enormi, ma l'acqua è tiepida e rinfresca. Dà la sensazione di essersi fatti una doccia fresca. Peccato che poi, appena esce il sole di nuovo, ciò che asciuga, si secca in un nanosecondo. Ciò che non asciuga, come le scarpe, i calzini e il fondello dei pantaloni, diventa un brodo in cui cuocersi a bagno maria.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlG0diFWthfbOFtU9vB2ANXkzD5tnwOjrVdNHG1uOAejIBs1SVdk2s6UKPwfpXRNrUr73aF7lfjlpLzBi7Mt6tOFawY9PR-8iCXYepg7NG3WLOJ4y2aBCoAWaYe3P8wL3rxgj6BjmEdYK7SOqNsZOMYgg50dvQN0LZwPoc8pwA_7AI45ieHc7BzCLxT8Y/s1209/20230704_120101.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlG0diFWthfbOFtU9vB2ANXkzD5tnwOjrVdNHG1uOAejIBs1SVdk2s6UKPwfpXRNrUr73aF7lfjlpLzBi7Mt6tOFawY9PR-8iCXYepg7NG3WLOJ4y2aBCoAWaYe3P8wL3rxgj6BjmEdYK7SOqNsZOMYgg50dvQN0LZwPoc8pwA_7AI45ieHc7BzCLxT8Y/s320/20230704_120101.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eEGhDVK3xYKaJf290YHOrm-AiYScc7WiWOCrgDQQLzvRKFMgzmAM3NsFGwAolTB2dHqjgsJzMAvRygt-AV_Ax-J_EThXbaXCQHTrbh94g4PS6UkinPQ8c0LDdveSlOOe5vhQB46yhlY8NzjhFCBq7_316LvasxPjOkrf-XL10PxN1SUrx0t2J7xEtyA/s1210/20230704_120229.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eEGhDVK3xYKaJf290YHOrm-AiYScc7WiWOCrgDQQLzvRKFMgzmAM3NsFGwAolTB2dHqjgsJzMAvRygt-AV_Ax-J_EThXbaXCQHTrbh94g4PS6UkinPQ8c0LDdveSlOOe5vhQB46yhlY8NzjhFCBq7_316LvasxPjOkrf-XL10PxN1SUrx0t2J7xEtyA/s320/20230704_120229.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo 65km di pedalata, per me abbastanza agile, per Gigi un po' meno, arriviamo a Muna (acqua dolce), l'unica cittadina vera e propria che incontriamo oggi. Di fondazione maya, poi spagnola, è sede, come tutti i dintorni, di allevamenti e aziende agricole. Infatti oggi è tutto un via vai di auto con carrellini con dentro maiali, vitelli magri e campesinos in transito, tutto mescolato, tutti insieme.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVUFOAiE6gwX_6XX46OU3H3xMZmnlh0lq49vL9mvLui7aafn5m14gDDUbO_kotgoYvTNRi99oRXWE8JO6fd0nsUN2hmUGZzKrUCcB-s6YVqNwFMmdpNEoGQJpMeysz4OyS2Z_40_DY5F8WkrI0_Q3_ZEK6da8vjF3fnuzJ4okBRPxMrJV7EySH0WU6iQ0/s1209/20230704_130024.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVUFOAiE6gwX_6XX46OU3H3xMZmnlh0lq49vL9mvLui7aafn5m14gDDUbO_kotgoYvTNRi99oRXWE8JO6fd0nsUN2hmUGZzKrUCcB-s6YVqNwFMmdpNEoGQJpMeysz4OyS2Z_40_DY5F8WkrI0_Q3_ZEK6da8vjF3fnuzJ4okBRPxMrJV7EySH0WU6iQ0/s320/20230704_130024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YwH_Bxa5mn8tD59UhQwv1FrQD52kOjED0ETsIGm1plRI6D8uAwGRWsaosdOItdIMM_S0sKe0nIfsZnZbrTyIzgL9-bfW25Ag8fXU0A1J3RZPRlJbe1QMZWCUdRM-tj9MPFFYZQ0dTkunYRvVrkj7QifJkoJBBAqVoBMBcGc0AUzw3E_yU6_YxN6Q4V4/s1209/20230704_130039.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YwH_Bxa5mn8tD59UhQwv1FrQD52kOjED0ETsIGm1plRI6D8uAwGRWsaosdOItdIMM_S0sKe0nIfsZnZbrTyIzgL9-bfW25Ag8fXU0A1J3RZPRlJbe1QMZWCUdRM-tj9MPFFYZQ0dTkunYRvVrkj7QifJkoJBBAqVoBMBcGc0AUzw3E_yU6_YxN6Q4V4/s320/20230704_130039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5W5Y3UjtEXwPF5cXyenCaL2ySA0wl9DBVzbTbr0YJpmFSnqDYM9VaWpxBFnMiCBkwLsDjDZYig7L8_SJdAHCsnf5uwMFDWKDYn0wm25CZAgBjU-siktavvelRr8y1eGA1QusrUsRprAw2ApoSv7G_j3Ueq7WntroTYCEhJgvA9b4ZVf6vNmYEq5FoJU/s1209/20230704_130355.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5W5Y3UjtEXwPF5cXyenCaL2ySA0wl9DBVzbTbr0YJpmFSnqDYM9VaWpxBFnMiCBkwLsDjDZYig7L8_SJdAHCsnf5uwMFDWKDYn0wm25CZAgBjU-siktavvelRr8y1eGA1QusrUsRprAw2ApoSv7G_j3Ueq7WntroTYCEhJgvA9b4ZVf6vNmYEq5FoJU/s320/20230704_130355.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvuiUPB4HJxHmPaYxSgR4pJQdKIhEfljkbrNTquzF14f2rP3GX-nudCJjak9JxYq8164QbtTvzcLWI9ndrGvVN9nLg9uNCIkmBpRUIOic-Y51cuHUM2KVfiR7ursk49jvEE8IE6UOVro25Kj1UGmTvxn1rT27YDQyt147xqwZy6MnVkacwXRl1G7T7hBM/s1209/20230704_130425.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvuiUPB4HJxHmPaYxSgR4pJQdKIhEfljkbrNTquzF14f2rP3GX-nudCJjak9JxYq8164QbtTvzcLWI9ndrGvVN9nLg9uNCIkmBpRUIOic-Y51cuHUM2KVfiR7ursk49jvEE8IE6UOVro25Kj1UGmTvxn1rT27YDQyt147xqwZy6MnVkacwXRl1G7T7hBM/s320/20230704_130425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A Muna facciamo sosta per bere qualcosa di fresco, e chiacchieriamo con gli avventori del baretto che ci chiedono del viaggio e commentano stupiti. Tra una chiacchiera e l'altra, ci accorgiamo che il vento si sta alzando di nuovo con cattiveria e davanti a noi il cielo è livido, nero, nerissimo, da Apocalisse. Un signore con cui stiamo chiacchierando ci chiede se abbiamo visto cosa sta per succedere e se abbiamo intenzione di pedalare lo stesso. "Per me la giornata di lavoro finisce qui!" aggiunge. Quando gli diciamo che non abbiamo intenzione di fermarci, rimane abbastanza sconvolto. Ma ieri a Mérida ho notato che la gente, quando vengono giù questi acquazzoni, non si fa gran problema: ombrelli e k-way servono molto relativamente, e quindi si bagnano e basta. Tanto fa caldo e non c'è rischio di prender colpi di freddo. Noi abbiamo deciso di fare la stessa cosa. Anche perchè, se le cose vanno come abbiamo visto i giorni scorsi, il diluvio si protrae per tutto il pomeriggio. Quindi aspettare che spiova non serve. E poi, come dicono i tedeschi, non siam mica fatti di zucchero!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFUaAZVGDeEwvUqqLkCKFMAODZqqQDcgkIYcbFlXqP1tiFb5vlyVgwRSV1dqwwt3lRAhoeb4DIxYmVdGEUfVMVsVsvAqlGjrrUI-GF7aCUzqrsLkgt7IwoFfi5gzDm_ndhXJMXtunG6X_eOKreAbhwRZEXNjPejTRBmRgMy7xhNS_FUrkJjkpbkqj5Qh4/s1209/20230704_130941.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFUaAZVGDeEwvUqqLkCKFMAODZqqQDcgkIYcbFlXqP1tiFb5vlyVgwRSV1dqwwt3lRAhoeb4DIxYmVdGEUfVMVsVsvAqlGjrrUI-GF7aCUzqrsLkgt7IwoFfi5gzDm_ndhXJMXtunG6X_eOKreAbhwRZEXNjPejTRBmRgMy7xhNS_FUrkJjkpbkqj5Qh4/s320/20230704_130941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYh4m11B73yEB4Lby4KvjpHEg5vU5gkR0ZMwJQIQ19EMBeqsMZuX-7GgGID8YPFph2tsM9zq_pg-_lRhvirOp80Nvq_to72dPeBwqdDh4vYzSN_3brUPeo9gocHt96RRaa6Yjeo4jp3RFWovf4EydJUrBSd1zrqnL2BwBA9IUxCmUzsWlyfXt6prtrasU/s1209/20230704_141941.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYh4m11B73yEB4Lby4KvjpHEg5vU5gkR0ZMwJQIQ19EMBeqsMZuX-7GgGID8YPFph2tsM9zq_pg-_lRhvirOp80Nvq_to72dPeBwqdDh4vYzSN_3brUPeo9gocHt96RRaa6Yjeo4jp3RFWovf4EydJUrBSd1zrqnL2BwBA9IUxCmUzsWlyfXt6prtrasU/s320/20230704_141941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo che ha già ricominciato a piovere. Nel giro di qualche minuto si scatena l'inferno e colonne d'acqua, cascate, letteralmente, ci colpiscono con violenza, portate dal vento teso. Si vede ben poco e le strade si allagano, per cui procediamo pianissimo. Come se non bastasse, iniziano qui le prime collinette dopo settimane di pianura totale. Giustamente. Siamo al limitare della regione Puuc, che significa collina, e dà nome a una popolazione che ha dominato queste zone nel periodo classico maya, e ha sviluppato uno stile artistico e architettonico originale. Puuc, colline. Quindi salitelle. Controvento. Sotto al monsone.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ408kIf5XKeGmCnCUHIAOOq4SicmB28l0Lm_6CkHbZJvYAs3vJWHD82N41vmbInjIZgyrH3KJEIfzRqF3HnZvPWHJ51n3jioWnjm3f_6EUIhk2o5tRY7PTd0mRU18JJBR2npRLSJtXGS-RAhM4MJBrhZA7KvyOY5NB2kP3rhZ5ZhpfM-OpVFlayq7u3E/s989/20230704_141957.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ408kIf5XKeGmCnCUHIAOOq4SicmB28l0Lm_6CkHbZJvYAs3vJWHD82N41vmbInjIZgyrH3KJEIfzRqF3HnZvPWHJ51n3jioWnjm3f_6EUIhk2o5tRY7PTd0mRU18JJBR2npRLSJtXGS-RAhM4MJBrhZA7KvyOY5NB2kP3rhZ5ZhpfM-OpVFlayq7u3E/s320/20230704_141957.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc0u8wDGUobxo3ZGrFPHhq9ZVJQEONNNl8rXY8VPhWy20mqoVqnVLe-782KKXeKnRfdjlwWMrXhswhbnF-y_SU_eMA1eYj387NZi3swd8fZCL9oQ_dGvamnphyCHC54naH7mjK1WMpRMj8TpO05PRm9T-172fvYXG5lJe99jls4iErvLK9TIPzXJC_ZHo/s1209/20230704_143417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc0u8wDGUobxo3ZGrFPHhq9ZVJQEONNNl8rXY8VPhWy20mqoVqnVLe-782KKXeKnRfdjlwWMrXhswhbnF-y_SU_eMA1eYj387NZi3swd8fZCL9oQ_dGvamnphyCHC54naH7mjK1WMpRMj8TpO05PRm9T-172fvYXG5lJe99jls4iErvLK9TIPzXJC_ZHo/s320/20230704_143417.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi inizia a essere, comprensibilmente, stanco. Per fortuna siamo arrivati. Il resort si erge, mastodontico, eccessivo, a lato strada, bianco contro il verde cupo e nebbioso della selva. E' una struttura che ha un centinaio di camere grandi come appartamenti, piscina, ristorante, sala da biliardo, bar... Una città più gande di tanti pueblos visti di questi tempi. La cosa pazzesca è che è deserto. Ci siamo noi, due coppie messicane e un gruppo di quatto francesi. C'è molto più personale di quanti non siano gli ospiti. Di che campa un posto così? Portiamo tutto in camera, anche le bici (qui non fanno mai problemi) e ci godiamo il rumore della pioggia sulle foglie e nell'acqua. Proprio dritte davanti alla finestra si vedono le rovine di Uxmal che fanno capolino sopra alle chiome degli alberi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1yuNFThj26Yiox6MJ4rBEwpFdHIAOAtGXNAkjvtnvLtGZfgz0R4Ht6nPp4kUA4ElsoH7OO8EEEN9jC6p4HoQK7Ub2qoA_jZi-LX3jp4P3juAtWY6rKgN3lmX0IVcEPeOolzUG-ESV2NeXdNpS6QL1LfrbKBJr0LhP-f-sYWgqkyq9iTqawTETfPITX4/s1209/20230704_152038.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1yuNFThj26Yiox6MJ4rBEwpFdHIAOAtGXNAkjvtnvLtGZfgz0R4Ht6nPp4kUA4ElsoH7OO8EEEN9jC6p4HoQK7Ub2qoA_jZi-LX3jp4P3juAtWY6rKgN3lmX0IVcEPeOolzUG-ESV2NeXdNpS6QL1LfrbKBJr0LhP-f-sYWgqkyq9iTqawTETfPITX4/s320/20230704_152038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOj0kMgVJH3zYknoOxFphk97cv-sggdY6xEsiVdbYMvMnBmqLu0xyRbEKXTd7nLIVP_lUTTR3_ijPkzxpGWfbMn8tBZrLKXVVoIbu9sH7X-ewF-g9EGTJduIyIjNxMAKCrVu1XBkyvxIqfd7lFd_iiv2-5A2q_ASJjrxnvrGdTrka29dSl1_nI-OpENUY/s1209/20230704_152043.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOj0kMgVJH3zYknoOxFphk97cv-sggdY6xEsiVdbYMvMnBmqLu0xyRbEKXTd7nLIVP_lUTTR3_ijPkzxpGWfbMn8tBZrLKXVVoIbu9sH7X-ewF-g9EGTJduIyIjNxMAKCrVu1XBkyvxIqfd7lFd_iiv2-5A2q_ASJjrxnvrGdTrka29dSl1_nI-OpENUY/s320/20230704_152043.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKmM66iu9CIPw7q7RG2W3kAzKx-XkcM9U_YiCoe14mp9bKX3ZhTNIo6CisM44WzWhF7P_-WqC1ZrBgIJhhqVsbaokTO_t_Fq151D2tR3bSQcNU267NaJSOfvqmtWNCIyBwb98wPxmguQZEyVGtRGML_K60LyJgzoQKT8cIcZpkpDqtx8XMst5EuFGxMk/s1209/20230704_152047.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKmM66iu9CIPw7q7RG2W3kAzKx-XkcM9U_YiCoe14mp9bKX3ZhTNIo6CisM44WzWhF7P_-WqC1ZrBgIJhhqVsbaokTO_t_Fq151D2tR3bSQcNU267NaJSOfvqmtWNCIyBwb98wPxmguQZEyVGtRGML_K60LyJgzoQKT8cIcZpkpDqtx8XMst5EuFGxMk/s320/20230704_152047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_sFnlMAOZmC4ol0u2WWY_ZFkaspbZKg7J9tziE9hxTLLqDE3zasP9JyvPv-T2S1-cJx2HlsjMJvY1K1EFa2HqpdJayHg17egWQdbxHxZPdM5qJVoMMsoznkXbUBDi3iZMF1ZZySWnPiP41WdgqwJb4N2N0c6LJSC0I1j4rxgUnai0cZS87WLO70-rn9w/s1209/20230704_152529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_sFnlMAOZmC4ol0u2WWY_ZFkaspbZKg7J9tziE9hxTLLqDE3zasP9JyvPv-T2S1-cJx2HlsjMJvY1K1EFa2HqpdJayHg17egWQdbxHxZPdM5qJVoMMsoznkXbUBDi3iZMF1ZZySWnPiP41WdgqwJb4N2N0c6LJSC0I1j4rxgUnai0cZS87WLO70-rn9w/s320/20230704_152529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Viste le condizioni meteo non felicissime, e la stanchezza di Gigi, decidiamo di rimandare a domattina presto la visita del sito archeologico, che dista poco più di un kilometro. Approfitto del mezzo pomeriggio libero per preparare bene le tappe dei prossimi giorni. Domani ci attende una giornatona: visiteremo subito, appena apre, Uxmal. Poi, dopo 24km, quello di Kabah. E da lì pedaleremo dritti per altri 70km fino a Hopelchén. Qui c'è una struttura che affitta camere ed è di proprietà di un chiropratico, che mette a disposizione degli alloggi per i suoi clienti che lo raggiungono da lontano o devono fare trattamenti prolungati. Ma pure a chi deve essere rimesso in bolla (cosa che, comunque, male non farebbe). Lasciamo perdere il museo Choco-Story perchè sa proprio di trappola per turisti. In primis, qui in Yucatan di cioccolato ce ne è ben poco. Poi il nome in inglese la dice lunga. Ancora, nel museo ci sono animali in cattività, come scimmie e giaguari. pare si tratti di un progetto di salvaguardia delle specie, con esemplari che, per vari motivi, non possono vivere nel loro habitat. Ma chissà, la storia puzza. Come puzzano le cerimonie sciamaniche del cacao, che si concludono con degustazione e passaggio allo shop. Anche no, per noi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ceniamo nel ristorante dell'hotel, unico posto disponibile, e, una volta sazi, ci ritiriamo in camera. Dalla selva salgono i rumori che ci si immagina, tra gracidare di rane, canti e grida di uccelli che non conosco, e versi un po' inquietanti e per nulla riconoscibili. Insomma, si sente quel suono di bordone che si trova online in quei video tipo "10 hours relaxing jungle sounds". Solo che qui ci siamo in mezzo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi53qvXfSZidKyAfLkfV0_B1W_Q2KX3c78RaNlGMIJrmcfYn3B-nfSMbtFIniB0jf92pzMIeyF4pSMxPXhiMmoJDpUq6f2BBk6lZjKholOwfIG2Q8c4tXLrLDtaco_faWKwNsMzxaOPz7GsALQk1BN35Sb4CXe5lD2udetxrlTLIxkocB_wgphWUDutVDE/s1209/20230704_191922.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi53qvXfSZidKyAfLkfV0_B1W_Q2KX3c78RaNlGMIJrmcfYn3B-nfSMbtFIniB0jf92pzMIeyF4pSMxPXhiMmoJDpUq6f2BBk6lZjKholOwfIG2Q8c4tXLrLDtaco_faWKwNsMzxaOPz7GsALQk1BN35Sb4CXe5lD2udetxrlTLIxkocB_wgphWUDutVDE/s320/20230704_191922.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div>5/7<div>Uxmal-Kabah-Hopelchén</div><div>93km</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Che tappa! Che meraviglia! Che fatica! Che spettacolo entrare così a contatto con una terra, e farsi portare dalla strada e dal vento, e combattere anche, contro quel vento e contro quella strada,e guadagnare un palmo alla volta e scoprire il tutto nuovo, quel che era lontano e straniero ed ora è qui e fa parte di noi. E' successo tutto: ha fatto caldissimo, con quel sole sacro che brucia i cieli e dissecca la terra; ha piovuto fortissimo, perchè il dio Chac ascolta le preghiere di chi chiede acqua per le radici e la gola riarsa. Ci sono state pianura e colline. Giungla, fitta, scura, grassa di linfa, ma anche campi aggiogati, coltivati a mais e piantagioni di mango. Tanti volti, tante anime. Per lo più sorridenti e curiose, ma anche intimorite o spavalde nell'approcciarsi a noi che siamo quanto di meno consueto possa transitare su certe strade. Cani buoni ed emaciati, cani emaciati e aggressivi. Gatti coccoloni e gatti schivi. Rovine archeologiche meravigliose ma pure discariche a cielo aperto a bordo strada, intorno ai paesi. Oggi penso di poter dire che tanto di questo paese ci si è fatto incontro, e c'è stato un contatto, una compenetrazione. Un reciproco riconoscimento.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Torniamo a stamattina. Sveglia all'alba, caffè e via, per essere alle 8, puntuali, ai cancelli del sito archeologico di Uxmal, che apre a quell'ora. Come i pensionati alle Poste o al supermercato, in pole position e frementi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Già l'avvicinamento, breve, si carica di aspettative. Inoltre i cartelli ricordano che ci troviamo in una riserva della biosfera, con una fauna ben degna, tra cui i giaguari (onde il divieto di accamparsi con le tende). Che bellezza!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhL3mq1yTpBWbxc6gQKUK-WZF8pi4QFzkMHO9fvwC82LTQ2Rmmw3jBLn-yd3-uAohVE54vdCB6-msSjp68NVNf5VSnEkWlMTMhWWkm6SfqB2LuFDPfxlB6hJrE0RQeGeD2S-DnNI-i2ppEUHjpKHZQtEPQ2btDb53uR_uYMhywBgbLayFy7f93EhJoDkw/s1209/20230705_080834.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhL3mq1yTpBWbxc6gQKUK-WZF8pi4QFzkMHO9fvwC82LTQ2Rmmw3jBLn-yd3-uAohVE54vdCB6-msSjp68NVNf5VSnEkWlMTMhWWkm6SfqB2LuFDPfxlB6hJrE0RQeGeD2S-DnNI-i2ppEUHjpKHZQtEPQ2btDb53uR_uYMhywBgbLayFy7f93EhJoDkw/s320/20230705_080834.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQEtW4WE4Iu0jWvmgZ8RWAEx6gBvULUiBW3YRZ2r1isMo5UsVs9ASd4J5FWx-1HLqcKi_zzr97TEmsvfUJVBjIN3XZRPwHJG1fo6aGczqPi0Tq3mGg3lDyUb0Mik3qNTlhzlAHpDot77Dil-Z9W5De2PW0Ro6IoXs1KD89GD_EgXUunXGM44wdlAC4kQ/s1209/20230705_080840.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQEtW4WE4Iu0jWvmgZ8RWAEx6gBvULUiBW3YRZ2r1isMo5UsVs9ASd4J5FWx-1HLqcKi_zzr97TEmsvfUJVBjIN3XZRPwHJG1fo6aGczqPi0Tq3mGg3lDyUb0Mik3qNTlhzlAHpDot77Dil-Z9W5De2PW0Ro6IoXs1KD89GD_EgXUunXGM44wdlAC4kQ/s320/20230705_080840.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Arriviamo all'ingresso delle rovine e siamo gli unici. Le folle oceaniche prospettate da guida e siti proprio non ci sono, al pari di tutti gli altri luoghi finora visitati. Paghiamo i nostri due soliti biglietti (per il sito e le tasse governative) facciamo i due controlli, con tornelli e addetti posti a 5m uno dall'altro, e, dopo 3 gradini, bam! Andiamo a sbattere contro la bellezza che sorge dalla bruma della giungla in tutta la sua maestosa imponenza.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAc7hMvC-MKtTFZn3GBwAeHU0Uo0ilK-6XPPBthB0PsVyvwe_odreAB5IBTlFqI1ljGem8EkIbsNkNX0M6PSDeo5jlzxLgkhig7rS_7KcNoLl1Y5XI92oP46W5TPDI2zeHFiWyJ1pw8NtCCX0QPFcU0Dt_rY-eAQgL_4Dk8P0skQ-O_0bA6hKNJm6o8_o/s1209/20230705_082654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAc7hMvC-MKtTFZn3GBwAeHU0Uo0ilK-6XPPBthB0PsVyvwe_odreAB5IBTlFqI1ljGem8EkIbsNkNX0M6PSDeo5jlzxLgkhig7rS_7KcNoLl1Y5XI92oP46W5TPDI2zeHFiWyJ1pw8NtCCX0QPFcU0Dt_rY-eAQgL_4Dk8P0skQ-O_0bA6hKNJm6o8_o/s320/20230705_082654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Si tratta della "Casa dell'indovino". Uxmal ("tre volte ricostruita"), fondata nel VI secolo d.C., raggiunse il suo massimo splendore nel periodo classico maya, diventando il centro cerimoniale più importante della cultura Puuc. Esercitava la sua egemonia sulle città circostanti, cui era collegata daun sistema di strade ancora oggi visibili. Intorno al X secolo la città fu abbandonata, forse per una crisi di approvvigionamento idrico dopo prolungata siccità. La giungla se la rimangiò e fu riscoperta solo a metà Ottocento grazie ad archeologi francesi e statunitensi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il sito è vasto e ben conservato. La prima cosa che salta all'occhio è, appunto, la Casa del adivino, con i suoi 35m di altezza e l'insolita pianta ovale. Si tratta della quinta ricostruzione del tempio, iniziato nel VI secolo e concluso nel X, con decorazioni chenes. Il portale forma la bocca di una gigantesca maschera del dio della pioggia Chac. Leggenda vuole che l'intero complesso sia sorto dalla terra in una sola notte grazie all'opera di un nano.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhcoVVdD-JCoEB6TPI9JotRPDlP8sdWpaGOiI8ds9PQD4-Y4mSLxZ1qb6gPUQGqeYf_WzFBjWL973ZUp5K7EnjkzZj903-PaTIMRu_B1vpBJS4o-t9ID8M61wAVpZUqfjtI0Fb11W9zidQn-MnBJbnKLNW3b6SX-VBIhX69i0mAbMCqQ-at5N7rNuXxys/s1209/20230705_083029.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhcoVVdD-JCoEB6TPI9JotRPDlP8sdWpaGOiI8ds9PQD4-Y4mSLxZ1qb6gPUQGqeYf_WzFBjWL973ZUp5K7EnjkzZj903-PaTIMRu_B1vpBJS4o-t9ID8M61wAVpZUqfjtI0Fb11W9zidQn-MnBJbnKLNW3b6SX-VBIhX69i0mAbMCqQ-at5N7rNuXxys/s320/20230705_083029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Questo tempio è così particolare e monumentale da rubare lo sguardo. Si fatica a proseguire oltre, c'è qualcosa di magnetico.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79Vf5j6ehh_6z_CvFmxyhmloi2G6wOB3xPf0wWeLKbv6uCJgT0H2tZH1QM6ckLx_F3z6LSbCb0fUVj4bS_0fB4f0uDPM9yjWduADIMdYFic8S9UUSUzRy-KxSQ5ggxogrEfmv6SVZGOjj4CKG6peO_lYL-7Lf1t_Oac7GFGFRpyT4_9FdhH6IamIqfzI/s1209/20230705_083305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg79Vf5j6ehh_6z_CvFmxyhmloi2G6wOB3xPf0wWeLKbv6uCJgT0H2tZH1QM6ckLx_F3z6LSbCb0fUVj4bS_0fB4f0uDPM9yjWduADIMdYFic8S9UUSUzRy-KxSQ5ggxogrEfmv6SVZGOjj4CKG6peO_lYL-7Lf1t_Oac7GFGFRpyT4_9FdhH6IamIqfzI/s320/20230705_083305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7OvMh9ufu2C7MiyX8j_m7sidXrcEUQNS8vQPB29nDZsvyw7vnlUTdO67prTlTUO5yam2o1SIq5QJiq_J4BqOcXkRON5R1zyLx8QNbmOgtCWzJQN6apBl22sZ-f7wvwWwbNSRjEC-g4n8rsYToM5gythztVHBXJ7Zkqh0X8fyJIVOQtx48AjAPzqVMgU/s979/20230705_083630.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB7OvMh9ufu2C7MiyX8j_m7sidXrcEUQNS8vQPB29nDZsvyw7vnlUTdO67prTlTUO5yam2o1SIq5QJiq_J4BqOcXkRON5R1zyLx8QNbmOgtCWzJQN6apBl22sZ-f7wvwWwbNSRjEC-g4n8rsYToM5gythztVHBXJ7Zkqh0X8fyJIVOQtx48AjAPzqVMgU/s320/20230705_083630.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci fa visita anche un quetzal, l'uccello sacro per maya e aztechi. Le sue piume rosse e verdi e la lunga coda gli conferiscono, in effetti, una bellezza e un'eleganza tali da farci capire perchè fosse venerato. E' simbolo del Guatemala, che dista in effetti una manciata di km da qui. Ed è simbolo anche di libertà, perchè, a quanto pare, preferisce morire di fame che vivere in gabbia. Vedere un quetzal (in italiano detto trogone splendido, ma si può? Quanta poca poesia) è un dono che la selva ci offre. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNT8el4sZ_beouNAVL8rpuBeRmXTJ18EYwvGrzb-fw_byLPHwGF21BR1P2Hg37kztaJl_IZtUq1Z8oBCMyPNQNWncJphjxmE7e-6uzVRH6-oCd2jR1lDfHtgQ50a25l6g5H78HOuODPiUfGYfnLVD9W2AZULGzjAypRFsfX5UDndjcPODMPUdkmwvjY6U/s1209/20230705_083740.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNT8el4sZ_beouNAVL8rpuBeRmXTJ18EYwvGrzb-fw_byLPHwGF21BR1P2Hg37kztaJl_IZtUq1Z8oBCMyPNQNWncJphjxmE7e-6uzVRH6-oCd2jR1lDfHtgQ50a25l6g5H78HOuODPiUfGYfnLVD9W2AZULGzjAypRFsfX5UDndjcPODMPUdkmwvjY6U/s320/20230705_083740.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwy7B0mmKjDT6WJcOYDfuGJzVBdsYfWh6IFn9Mr1_PiI7DmtFhmqKU45QQUk0t_OT6kaSZ4-kRdfAdSZDFYyu92GHJUPZDy6wvFGROa8UvMBVBfPFQrKjrSRTaIPY_qce5WYVuLGTyGY-Ax_9xdU2t4OG8KWPP-9E2E_nNgQ40IhrY8DVPzQOti6LDhjk/s1209/20230705_083920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwy7B0mmKjDT6WJcOYDfuGJzVBdsYfWh6IFn9Mr1_PiI7DmtFhmqKU45QQUk0t_OT6kaSZ4-kRdfAdSZDFYyu92GHJUPZDy6wvFGROa8UvMBVBfPFQrKjrSRTaIPY_qce5WYVuLGTyGY-Ax_9xdU2t4OG8KWPP-9E2E_nNgQ40IhrY8DVPzQOti6LDhjk/s320/20230705_083920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Dopo aver fatto un mezzo giro intorno alla casa dell'indovino, ci dirigiamo verso un'altra struttura pazzesca, il cosiddetto "quadrangulo de las monjas", il quadrilatero delle monache. Ha 74 sale e tuttora gli archeologi non concordano sulla funzione di questo maestoso complesso: accademia militare? Scuola reale? Insieme di palazzi? Non si sa con certezza.</span></div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbWt-O9zcyYNaudmziHpIOWN0Xu57deXbdepBk9VItOrlUfoU_3z3vSZsvhDRVbwlQ0t5ZOj5FnT8dglFRd5xD_drL40rz5guscUDkpFPgHMeiOufBiNoOp43CsoTy2hceEew3VuaVndE8VentDb228gqYy3am-3E_yVpP79wy_qTWBdgqejXZS0y-wRc/s1209/20230705_084155.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbWt-O9zcyYNaudmziHpIOWN0Xu57deXbdepBk9VItOrlUfoU_3z3vSZsvhDRVbwlQ0t5ZOj5FnT8dglFRd5xD_drL40rz5guscUDkpFPgHMeiOufBiNoOp43CsoTy2hceEew3VuaVndE8VentDb228gqYy3am-3E_yVpP79wy_qTWBdgqejXZS0y-wRc/s320/20230705_084155.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIj1MKOE7VazbxR5rDgEO5N1eTLvCfFvNXLx79O1sYPVxYKuH1QTldVcoQYtlCrsfLbYIHTy2EokbKeL63jJpigbjlXV7RbEE2lizNj9zcYfdIqgB3VXIfqdlQUQeIFNjnBVr36QOOQySQ7OEPIzEZ1se1RuM_OL0gnJGWggs4K1yM89BPpp-_aVscmU/s1209/20230705_084332.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIj1MKOE7VazbxR5rDgEO5N1eTLvCfFvNXLx79O1sYPVxYKuH1QTldVcoQYtlCrsfLbYIHTy2EokbKeL63jJpigbjlXV7RbEE2lizNj9zcYfdIqgB3VXIfqdlQUQeIFNjnBVr36QOOQySQ7OEPIzEZ1se1RuM_OL0gnJGWggs4K1yM89BPpp-_aVscmU/s320/20230705_084332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhextOu4SxUIYvIJVYsxpUBiw3unfwxa89jRGgvCVGfVnH8SKuQKpv2sOI_EefpkruCIQ37DXNO2YkT8X2-HuHyZ8JeTALeud2MUolsBaX9J4M-c_v0NJiSsxXgaUlfcUuR0qMEXoMmi4TokAIyXmwcHMhDrgdw-FtqVWgALIN7-NZg0Bhc2-SBuc-BenQ/s1209/20230705_084401.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhextOu4SxUIYvIJVYsxpUBiw3unfwxa89jRGgvCVGfVnH8SKuQKpv2sOI_EefpkruCIQ37DXNO2YkT8X2-HuHyZ8JeTALeud2MUolsBaX9J4M-c_v0NJiSsxXgaUlfcUuR0qMEXoMmi4TokAIyXmwcHMhDrgdw-FtqVWgALIN7-NZg0Bhc2-SBuc-BenQ/s320/20230705_084401.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Certo è, invece, che i quattro templi che formano il complesso sono riccamente decorati, quasi esuberanti, con influenze della cultura totonaca. Si vedono volti del dio chac, di serpenti piumati e di na (la capanna tradizionale con tetto in foglie di palma). Sulle facciate di questi edifici si legge, scritta nella pietra, la visione del cosmo che i maya avevano, e questa consapevolezza mi mette la pelle d'oca. Mi immagino questo luogo, popolato, con i fuochi accessi e le danze, la musica, le sacre premonizioni e i sacrifici. Mi immagino la grandezza, e il rapido declino. Il silenzio che cala improvviso, la giungla che fagocita tutto.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6sHR0UHLF2BEKAjSgYVGKCxSgl9dXZrZjhcOjv8MX7Ib6n_oS7ofsOAAXl0MllCL3wGSB176pwtCykVIrReXlvQeXMXXioY-CYuFLJ7Pygc0qoCtk1I_zC8xirU_Yj5bzF8Fyojuw8wTx2TyRS0dPlWvI3RVjb5q01Fx08GwngSZCCCHarkojXkIgQYo/s1209/20230705_084426.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6sHR0UHLF2BEKAjSgYVGKCxSgl9dXZrZjhcOjv8MX7Ib6n_oS7ofsOAAXl0MllCL3wGSB176pwtCykVIrReXlvQeXMXXioY-CYuFLJ7Pygc0qoCtk1I_zC8xirU_Yj5bzF8Fyojuw8wTx2TyRS0dPlWvI3RVjb5q01Fx08GwngSZCCCHarkojXkIgQYo/s320/20230705_084426.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIdabU2D13bVrYIuB0F7WQHzGbLdma_8K94FWpzBr7N453EbA9e4ixYoyL9oFIIoAJ-FBNoCS-OqCaEhGGCAWE6U_Bz-n9o3R1c9iQhhDWojIA50VpZz3F25kgs0YrJMWCKK2aCw_UxOqRkiyqtWJiqsqmYJbdFdejDdpuExlMQoD9_KzOcB-ftRur9Y/s1209/20230705_084720.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIdabU2D13bVrYIuB0F7WQHzGbLdma_8K94FWpzBr7N453EbA9e4ixYoyL9oFIIoAJ-FBNoCS-OqCaEhGGCAWE6U_Bz-n9o3R1c9iQhhDWojIA50VpZz3F25kgs0YrJMWCKK2aCw_UxOqRkiyqtWJiqsqmYJbdFdejDdpuExlMQoD9_KzOcB-ftRur9Y/s320/20230705_084720.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHDwwBjAo_ea1LbMeBikUEDRtTYbHQziVvj-w0CO8rOkXGpzbAN66t8ifaAGP8CxxGw_yxsY-ItS_JL9eYvl3iLvki6jUpP6PGmXlGl4qzPuPkVq7rx9go2ufbu5jLCtxZPubIv9yCiGPo4ksBJcMgERqTEUGYDGW8jGlo7K5QlqYjNS3-ffUz2jkdts/s1209/20230705_084724.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxHDwwBjAo_ea1LbMeBikUEDRtTYbHQziVvj-w0CO8rOkXGpzbAN66t8ifaAGP8CxxGw_yxsY-ItS_JL9eYvl3iLvki6jUpP6PGmXlGl4qzPuPkVq7rx9go2ufbu5jLCtxZPubIv9yCiGPo4ksBJcMgERqTEUGYDGW8jGlo7K5QlqYjNS3-ffUz2jkdts/s320/20230705_084724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqkTPbAG4RCLbtVjFKBMTXeMHr3thjo-Q-B34Y9PtW60vl2rWrihWwux_hGRdPzEzOhur5ye20QFODatmTGMQfqd231tjN0lbTwlUn_MsVP9bmXTKjqGQYWJEeTBYIH-ud5IlOHKLfUY0tRYYEMc7luna6Kdu5BYn3UsukBfmKiGRU6mX7vpa4YG3z3z0/s320/20230705_084744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizmjNPhiPavnOfZyHFKmL7iQqoxnbQF0B_dskUcrYe7E5WNmt27W6ILOU_kUXFYbvT-qPq1x_czPRhG_8S7iXqvJgvxWKKdr3q5WgYJktVVW--Pq2_60U9vYlAUJecMpL7A-mPwjrMkOBww8qb7mSDGgvlu9_aUqs9O_mRywJARrOrZjJuNWjXmCaGF8I/s1209/20230705_084815.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizmjNPhiPavnOfZyHFKmL7iQqoxnbQF0B_dskUcrYe7E5WNmt27W6ILOU_kUXFYbvT-qPq1x_czPRhG_8S7iXqvJgvxWKKdr3q5WgYJktVVW--Pq2_60U9vYlAUJecMpL7A-mPwjrMkOBww8qb7mSDGgvlu9_aUqs9O_mRywJARrOrZjJuNWjXmCaGF8I/s320/20230705_084815.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJyaSrFGq4gMUI1fXmpU_4xvjKt95jNkHEPBIRA79a_LoT8VygxrpI-3yQg-aCNKlAzH_P1u2o3T_85pNa7I0FHIvUtm9-Bu49TzOvks0a-TIAfvJ8FU3dbmSuDZyv9eP4Ucy7NMIx4f4cvmWQRybe46pVCxCxf-BJf4geD6hOQg0nBBOCcYtzAzheV8/s1209/20230705_084827.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJyaSrFGq4gMUI1fXmpU_4xvjKt95jNkHEPBIRA79a_LoT8VygxrpI-3yQg-aCNKlAzH_P1u2o3T_85pNa7I0FHIvUtm9-Bu49TzOvks0a-TIAfvJ8FU3dbmSuDZyv9eP4Ucy7NMIx4f4cvmWQRybe46pVCxCxf-BJf4geD6hOQg0nBBOCcYtzAzheV8/s320/20230705_084827.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlvzFYyK9S4SPFSCNFO3ksfGIQ-QzuGhbbJk-tiVYKi-IhaVQYxxlxti0kU5kn_AVQfR7yHpIwb2tKZTUJKvyXvkHYDn-F2N9UXfiseMEDY3D_lIzCUTAT4Qhy66vMY2hwFsQ5p8qLG-qVYe_T3JKWm4j1QRHdOBp4zFDwCYgD848wxdQGezIci1Ixs4/s979/20230705_085003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlvzFYyK9S4SPFSCNFO3ksfGIQ-QzuGhbbJk-tiVYKi-IhaVQYxxlxti0kU5kn_AVQfR7yHpIwb2tKZTUJKvyXvkHYDn-F2N9UXfiseMEDY3D_lIzCUTAT4Qhy66vMY2hwFsQ5p8qLG-qVYe_T3JKWm4j1QRHdOBp4zFDwCYgD848wxdQGezIci1Ixs4/s320/20230705_085003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DHMO-vkJFzYw8xeN3XtFl5axKxp4PCGvDa0I1eLLXseq_mWzcFSgMPHZH4WtDQCDEbuxEsXyMim8K7Ei_g1cmxWI-HIGi5MiMVxaUiFSsvmzqwuMp7n41jkwfpU4sYIc4Kcp_Lfi3N-wmvN96DiynlsOotgpeiAxEMZQLNcJi4wUXVW-ZQ1R9TDCvLg/s1209/20230705_085008.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-DHMO-vkJFzYw8xeN3XtFl5axKxp4PCGvDa0I1eLLXseq_mWzcFSgMPHZH4WtDQCDEbuxEsXyMim8K7Ei_g1cmxWI-HIGi5MiMVxaUiFSsvmzqwuMp7n41jkwfpU4sYIc4Kcp_Lfi3N-wmvN96DiynlsOotgpeiAxEMZQLNcJi4wUXVW-ZQ1R9TDCvLg/s320/20230705_085008.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passando per un angusto arco ci si affaccia quindi al campo da gioco della pelota, che conserva le due pareti laterali con le tribune e gli anelli in cui far passare la palla.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTzeJBg0AcZf3tR4XEl69pkW55KjdcstPv5z7Wj5hsDdeqqqd7By6YTZCXqWkIzQ-0W3gvRXlBdRfc9t7maZ_u2sLs1CxVgqbYXMGrWZ8XSxpwkOsyze-_GCEvfmoWSNe1lolmvE1sYAtFdNkVEpPPeIpBAsC8NbN-UNWLIczYRgZ_sgHV6EASp4tpHQ/s1209/20230705_085021.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTzeJBg0AcZf3tR4XEl69pkW55KjdcstPv5z7Wj5hsDdeqqqd7By6YTZCXqWkIzQ-0W3gvRXlBdRfc9t7maZ_u2sLs1CxVgqbYXMGrWZ8XSxpwkOsyze-_GCEvfmoWSNe1lolmvE1sYAtFdNkVEpPPeIpBAsC8NbN-UNWLIczYRgZ_sgHV6EASp4tpHQ/s320/20230705_085021.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEssqzosbNeAnamPAw2FTExWQ4OD6bZ5f5DXftXnXb4gKPATcc0EiJctqzxNCjcToCqhrIwPyW0WEkObC3ZGLJib4Wzv8Jlah1LatHR4b5LbsWBQfgKV4PBrz_cocdnwNrV7iRuv7C3kefWxp1H3mcZr2Bmjaq6UMJnBR2PtOJs8Uh5b_4YWKwxU-zms/s1209/20230705_085205.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEssqzosbNeAnamPAw2FTExWQ4OD6bZ5f5DXftXnXb4gKPATcc0EiJctqzxNCjcToCqhrIwPyW0WEkObC3ZGLJib4Wzv8Jlah1LatHR4b5LbsWBQfgKV4PBrz_cocdnwNrV7iRuv7C3kefWxp1H3mcZr2Bmjaq6UMJnBR2PtOJs8Uh5b_4YWKwxU-zms/s320/20230705_085205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAizP2EGPrQBjbRsg9U5k1SHWW28iygzHxNznA_HDHGsDE6ITIz9Z1fscQtxCEIJwlyzc6_2yHHiF0bauUTAAxPDmtrioMTOgAZklrDQh9MxDoyOvtXYbIRO15xKFym17zi7upYp8D3BjWwZTX0HldLuE7RYWuB1rEHk3kmEDduoryi8VaV1AhE_M7n2Q/s979/20230705_085443.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAizP2EGPrQBjbRsg9U5k1SHWW28iygzHxNznA_HDHGsDE6ITIz9Z1fscQtxCEIJwlyzc6_2yHHiF0bauUTAAxPDmtrioMTOgAZklrDQh9MxDoyOvtXYbIRO15xKFym17zi7upYp8D3BjWwZTX0HldLuE7RYWuB1rEHk3kmEDduoryi8VaV1AhE_M7n2Q/s320/20230705_085443.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0CmoKpw78NBapnsRlqgCAiNcjP-n9ZnFxtnkzupfWh3yWfAtIfIw5bDbqSuQLohn_VBfVeydgaE2Z9k2X21Nih2zURpvX9RqbK-EEPVk0NApuzcaqdaZW4CtljSitFNl60x-aEoa_Tvtfl6xghxUf-b1X8dRLGecm0nVh_sm11kwnEl9GWwSsRAvQ4dU/s1209/20230705_085542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0CmoKpw78NBapnsRlqgCAiNcjP-n9ZnFxtnkzupfWh3yWfAtIfIw5bDbqSuQLohn_VBfVeydgaE2Z9k2X21Nih2zURpvX9RqbK-EEPVk0NApuzcaqdaZW4CtljSitFNl60x-aEoa_Tvtfl6xghxUf-b1X8dRLGecm0nVh_sm11kwnEl9GWwSsRAvQ4dU/s320/20230705_085542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk25sFetV9GD_MQlxxmv2qodb1nKN4yb-32SyXAw_8il-ocCQ0AoQAdr_Zy6zvtI_2P2yvCvK5yXl_WD8RYACm9wwasOMWFFx9TtEyXSu0o7twKfwbkaU5GoYgevIDy0excBjEPPSMSNET84yf6MKSu4vCo6-meOQLDQtL9wV2tzlXSuKFo4i9DNKD-FY/s1209/20230705_085638.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk25sFetV9GD_MQlxxmv2qodb1nKN4yb-32SyXAw_8il-ocCQ0AoQAdr_Zy6zvtI_2P2yvCvK5yXl_WD8RYACm9wwasOMWFFx9TtEyXSu0o7twKfwbkaU5GoYgevIDy0excBjEPPSMSNET84yf6MKSu4vCo6-meOQLDQtL9wV2tzlXSuKFo4i9DNKD-FY/s320/20230705_085638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Da lì si passa per il cementerio e si giunge alla gran piramide, 30 metri di gradoni e, in cima, decorazioni con chac, fiori e uccelli. E' stato restaurato un solo lato, il resto è incora inglobato nella collina retrostante.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUx8Jk8I3XYPpJarvLi5CMl9ZswN2azIHoDKnzFItSc6U5CrkEEvrDYw36X6iX8GstKmz1xLi9VGvxjk-2kNxADL78GwD-oXgHX_8BsPpLYWkn-I5HJ42BMRRY8V7PxhIQEgNjYSYSq0U-tuNOP4sqbTBT7K7uuRFHDrPGygAhjm-i1teRwbFSdP3yFMo/s1209/20230705_090259.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUx8Jk8I3XYPpJarvLi5CMl9ZswN2azIHoDKnzFItSc6U5CrkEEvrDYw36X6iX8GstKmz1xLi9VGvxjk-2kNxADL78GwD-oXgHX_8BsPpLYWkn-I5HJ42BMRRY8V7PxhIQEgNjYSYSq0U-tuNOP4sqbTBT7K7uuRFHDrPGygAhjm-i1teRwbFSdP3yFMo/s320/20230705_090259.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lpF67xMXPHs1p5MnEWWTb7Q8IZq0DXZJDKYA8C1-4h5eOO5DxDrky1yi9CkOU6Y3zPFu0km0wh4brJ7EhWAQIhLFoRPGVvi-96vgvxEkjQN5oHXBB5nKuw2VKjOeA4PAZA9t_XGsH6pk2CpA_aIxaVd0xGZY7v57VAv0uq62rSzi0_4uDJWxHzX28W4/s1209/20230705_090555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lpF67xMXPHs1p5MnEWWTb7Q8IZq0DXZJDKYA8C1-4h5eOO5DxDrky1yi9CkOU6Y3zPFu0km0wh4brJ7EhWAQIhLFoRPGVvi-96vgvxEkjQN5oHXBB5nKuw2VKjOeA4PAZA9t_XGsH6pk2CpA_aIxaVd0xGZY7v57VAv0uq62rSzi0_4uDJWxHzX28W4/s320/20230705_090555.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWnQhQNJc9_ncakyXz4Q2lj2kXVM4Qu7l9_e4NArCKETtOryHMXJV0MrFZtYDQa77SQhyJkIoNhNFzkKPX3TdZef9HrnSC3Ljb-XalBIluh6EHKSdsm_495w8HkDV0TmJ55zuEo6BC10LtVwMI9X4eQr3WuTt6k5DQdr110XV2z27QBENTYPLj98-BFyg/s1209/20230705_090608.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWnQhQNJc9_ncakyXz4Q2lj2kXVM4Qu7l9_e4NArCKETtOryHMXJV0MrFZtYDQa77SQhyJkIoNhNFzkKPX3TdZef9HrnSC3Ljb-XalBIluh6EHKSdsm_495w8HkDV0TmJ55zuEo6BC10LtVwMI9X4eQr3WuTt6k5DQdr110XV2z27QBENTYPLj98-BFyg/s320/20230705_090608.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Salendo per ripidi e sconnessi gradoni, che ci rendono il passo malfermo a causa della tacche per la bici, raggiungiamo una terrazza sopraelevata. Qui si trova la casa delle tartarughe (perchè sono il fregio più evidente e particolare sul cornicione). Secondo i maya anche le tartarughe soffrivano la siccità al pari degli uomini, e quindi pregavano anche loro il dio della pioggia chac, e ad esso erano associate.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-OJg4Mg7FVKLup0zRUmlUztzOdVhyfTxV3nWf9S0kkgjn_CgC_UlcprssoPlSCSWcXRoLXVeLWw0vuZj-_Lfo7KulvZTaoAQ419J6iyoKGynbY5uKlDED0ne7l4HAPUUSfekBNCUBU8Iop4kp57PEba6viv1whkjnyQOadeAlgEbw_aDLzfwQbLTz-4U/s1209/20230705_090810.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-OJg4Mg7FVKLup0zRUmlUztzOdVhyfTxV3nWf9S0kkgjn_CgC_UlcprssoPlSCSWcXRoLXVeLWw0vuZj-_Lfo7KulvZTaoAQ419J6iyoKGynbY5uKlDED0ne7l4HAPUUSfekBNCUBU8Iop4kp57PEba6viv1whkjnyQOadeAlgEbw_aDLzfwQbLTz-4U/s320/20230705_090810.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Subito accanto si trova il palazzo del governatore, con i suoi 100 metri di facciata decorata con volti di chac e motivi geometrici. Un avvoltoio si posa sulle pietre d'angolo del tetto e ci osserva, arruffato dalla brezza. Di recente, in questo edificio, sono state trovate circa 150 specie di piante officinali, cosa che fa pensare venissero qui coltivate per curare i disturbi dell'apparato digerente, i morsi de serpente e le infezioni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCXe_wky5YnBE_jzuAo0U6U4f6tijX2sZnUJJhUYyPDYytOpSgyj30LUfKHFuYPo1bgBtszVoWrr_0S6DsqHDStzUGnnHPbdU5HKIBzOjW5-EJeDJ7EB3NgmIGGgcYTUDgA0g4u2lQWGiZZK_1SuNXXMtqqJkxv7YXY2TZfzvyo5rCfYHIT1uJcPAt8w/s1209/20230705_090844.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCXe_wky5YnBE_jzuAo0U6U4f6tijX2sZnUJJhUYyPDYytOpSgyj30LUfKHFuYPo1bgBtszVoWrr_0S6DsqHDStzUGnnHPbdU5HKIBzOjW5-EJeDJ7EB3NgmIGGgcYTUDgA0g4u2lQWGiZZK_1SuNXXMtqqJkxv7YXY2TZfzvyo5rCfYHIT1uJcPAt8w/s320/20230705_090844.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XQrm9_7CXNH3teSqNZVMqmNf6993aVyKznCkxEMz2TQyiPRAKcuHd5BuO1frCHZ27bnHoXrFFQfFcijOO-5Sn5P0T6p3J1w9MiOVd3ywjlXMxpvHS2tD8DvDVpd4RajZRmzGXjK7GkjHwo9pthPGao1isniqPLj-EwIP-y4B-H3DLoUv4iKdfvQZ7HQ/s1209/20230705_091003.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XQrm9_7CXNH3teSqNZVMqmNf6993aVyKznCkxEMz2TQyiPRAKcuHd5BuO1frCHZ27bnHoXrFFQfFcijOO-5Sn5P0T6p3J1w9MiOVd3ywjlXMxpvHS2tD8DvDVpd4RajZRmzGXjK7GkjHwo9pthPGao1isniqPLj-EwIP-y4B-H3DLoUv4iKdfvQZ7HQ/s320/20230705_091003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJw79Mf-EHbN0TVOH-WcquDZpvmmk697qgqd5qsM9zA_CXjErMNtYcKw0Yqds7ZHFUfo9m61irFSddtw0iPoAvcj21O2yj8hcaja9hBUyG3ew0islSvuij8sWNW4U-7C_-mjaohGBsSJBaW05wLIAmQhp80ExX9KKhjwFi0JWQ41HTgGOxr9xpX5NXYIM/s1209/20230705_091114.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJw79Mf-EHbN0TVOH-WcquDZpvmmk697qgqd5qsM9zA_CXjErMNtYcKw0Yqds7ZHFUfo9m61irFSddtw0iPoAvcj21O2yj8hcaja9hBUyG3ew0islSvuij8sWNW4U-7C_-mjaohGBsSJBaW05wLIAmQhp80ExX9KKhjwFi0JWQ41HTgGOxr9xpX5NXYIM/s320/20230705_091114.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajf6EL0z2Y8NEm-IBlgwh7o93EgWZ9FQ4w3TO_8lcwN4qwsilrqhCimhFCDio9Dp0IR49MI8iLOKL86I2WsekQgw6mSYrHdNm44eve303WQ-vuX5bnuhu_ZHqTyqsaVODyfe89nQ2Q9pwbBiA7lfhFNdn0wPdJbFpckHSGXybnnt6946iUNiPTMWZUag/s1209/20230705_091303.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajf6EL0z2Y8NEm-IBlgwh7o93EgWZ9FQ4w3TO_8lcwN4qwsilrqhCimhFCDio9Dp0IR49MI8iLOKL86I2WsekQgw6mSYrHdNm44eve303WQ-vuX5bnuhu_ZHqTyqsaVODyfe89nQ2Q9pwbBiA7lfhFNdn0wPdJbFpckHSGXybnnt6946iUNiPTMWZUag/s320/20230705_091303.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiACmuzi4tj4jMjqepPhB3Ynq5xTfWAl4WH5H9SQQYRyk7JnSmH6GwTCZRj8hlK0Bu94N2D_EZF9GCYYCE7-Mvz09Q2kSjchaxXtft-c3uae_kkoMMHHpXYUSvaGz-xDn8tJb9dbQufZXi8WUHV1tZWn7c3d4dKS2om3Z0gUhNpPr92Jdprs5Gt9uuRTMM/s1209/20230705_091603.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiACmuzi4tj4jMjqepPhB3Ynq5xTfWAl4WH5H9SQQYRyk7JnSmH6GwTCZRj8hlK0Bu94N2D_EZF9GCYYCE7-Mvz09Q2kSjchaxXtft-c3uae_kkoMMHHpXYUSvaGz-xDn8tJb9dbQufZXi8WUHV1tZWn7c3d4dKS2om3Z0gUhNpPr92Jdprs5Gt9uuRTMM/s320/20230705_091603.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Scendendo si incontra la cosiddetta Casa della vecchia, con una palapa e grandi simboli fallici. Hai capito la vecchia!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYjSqifatS7IKTs1muDdCWTaZUgARrZ0KHf5EB7o_DyluRUpHoFdWrVl8tqDw8civa9lst4hzq3DxKGbZMxE30PWRv7tGqHf947cVNexmvKpkjln1PhcCj4H6grkg0_-tSwfbdNYfVNO3GCiDh9peO612ZFLdg1MCg6uUFvNrhsJLcbZ0KFhTrr6KGRjE/s1209/20230705_091659.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYjSqifatS7IKTs1muDdCWTaZUgARrZ0KHf5EB7o_DyluRUpHoFdWrVl8tqDw8civa9lst4hzq3DxKGbZMxE30PWRv7tGqHf947cVNexmvKpkjln1PhcCj4H6grkg0_-tSwfbdNYfVNO3GCiDh9peO612ZFLdg1MCg6uUFvNrhsJLcbZ0KFhTrr6KGRjE/s320/20230705_091659.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKz_uGyzV92K88hB4KCeL15qUfgqq7zqpvLscQvhj6sQhuMoVYkjaLtLOKEodqIF6W0mJkG0aoh_CXFrktk8UcAKa1HSbCI7H9LFSLciiAGJYqkkwNmrGw-zoy5_eKwQNel9HIIjB07xHa0ubAAOfDS1lr-kCjvSZbTi1mi7svTYQYhm53r5SKL2cDgXM/s1209/20230705_091830.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKz_uGyzV92K88hB4KCeL15qUfgqq7zqpvLscQvhj6sQhuMoVYkjaLtLOKEodqIF6W0mJkG0aoh_CXFrktk8UcAKa1HSbCI7H9LFSLciiAGJYqkkwNmrGw-zoy5_eKwQNel9HIIjB07xHa0ubAAOfDS1lr-kCjvSZbTi1mi7svTYQYhm53r5SKL2cDgXM/s320/20230705_091830.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBwPUmb7XIgUoTg5Doq_kU2pnC2hLMEbOoV72ntI9Jj64oR1mJ7Y94Gxh28Njqa8JvKlQ3WsZC9VqdzEGpABkveceiLwyhRRJm3hqsYJVXmkMJLQ91aWy8YSwLH0skcWBV0viWMy0KR4vaOgbf8X4mX0tJv2XZ0vkjELsnUvWn3-CuL7VpHNhs7pqKBM/s1209/20230705_091844.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQBwPUmb7XIgUoTg5Doq_kU2pnC2hLMEbOoV72ntI9Jj64oR1mJ7Y94Gxh28Njqa8JvKlQ3WsZC9VqdzEGpABkveceiLwyhRRJm3hqsYJVXmkMJLQ91aWy8YSwLH0skcWBV0viWMy0KR4vaOgbf8X4mX0tJv2XZ0vkjELsnUvWn3-CuL7VpHNhs7pqKBM/s320/20230705_091844.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMRauK2KXt-RQVN5j_lLxJrOUxf49DqDlU51ejzvM3g9g-bLvx2BzkDTG3UCGBvydui6jxi7cCZM7xyxQB_5lvPlnnTG_mSJYf6ANlaAulAA09zej9vLx1QW1pxfznmCMbubrBYtMgiNy7smwSZq-6yRXmt9rrPUs9QT55xxbkKZlRk-FRjuMU0ixW2Bs/s1209/20230705_091914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMRauK2KXt-RQVN5j_lLxJrOUxf49DqDlU51ejzvM3g9g-bLvx2BzkDTG3UCGBvydui6jxi7cCZM7xyxQB_5lvPlnnTG_mSJYf6ANlaAulAA09zej9vLx1QW1pxfznmCMbubrBYtMgiNy7smwSZq-6yRXmt9rrPUs9QT55xxbkKZlRk-FRjuMU0ixW2Bs/s320/20230705_091914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCkLcbb4m8si0XWaKfnSh6gazfEvg8mLwD2BcTusZ7o8KrfpAXvWt9YTI8Ox0qd-af8pmeENvFMbK7B2whZqAF5BVb7_do_6sX3dE4UEeDahvy7bywjWfDbDjRy7pguVrWLvVI-gtNHogxqA4XYARnuQPK4x5PI95kHymGfEQrTQ2P7ygsmOv39a2lHY/s1209/20230705_091925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCkLcbb4m8si0XWaKfnSh6gazfEvg8mLwD2BcTusZ7o8KrfpAXvWt9YTI8Ox0qd-af8pmeENvFMbK7B2whZqAF5BVb7_do_6sX3dE4UEeDahvy7bywjWfDbDjRy7pguVrWLvVI-gtNHogxqA4XYARnuQPK4x5PI95kHymGfEQrTQ2P7ygsmOv39a2lHY/s320/20230705_091925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi361iu6hQOn-OyKXr5FiVT0gg9lIYOJv6dYGsYeUqJRyTZLq120-rElQVftYlrEi5P-u7D71h0WkOSKeYblolPvpSePGC-SZyXqhy3YSYjs2QiEmpI38HVp5iKi2WUIv013_k7Xl-CFheL-YUHKOoSDvYTED_YsCW51eBdPS7rx92wSRAFTBU-AT7FOTk/s1209/20230705_092405.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi361iu6hQOn-OyKXr5FiVT0gg9lIYOJv6dYGsYeUqJRyTZLq120-rElQVftYlrEi5P-u7D71h0WkOSKeYblolPvpSePGC-SZyXqhy3YSYjs2QiEmpI38HVp5iKi2WUIv013_k7Xl-CFheL-YUHKOoSDvYTED_YsCW51eBdPS7rx92wSRAFTBU-AT7FOTk/s320/20230705_092405.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">le iguane non mancano mai! Anzi, qui ce ne sono a bizzeffe, alcune enormi!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Salutiamo il simbolo indimenticabile di questo sito e siamo pronti a ripartire. Ci aspetta una tappa lunga e un altro sito da visitare a poco più di 20km da qui.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5iGk3xWFQSv89SQCzoosvPhs4-_hOKjMcy05cpBssaJOnsldjYPk_RtFerzXheEe9kQ0jF2leePkErY_4dZ4WxeT7iiqQokdBPrgSlJjboPawt3iEiPlDRHPIYuy3ldUqY-YGwRgasaO7SAURZa-_tLWueGG51m29PjMymkuEzRHIb_ctSTojYKiwfDY/s1210/20230705_092934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5iGk3xWFQSv89SQCzoosvPhs4-_hOKjMcy05cpBssaJOnsldjYPk_RtFerzXheEe9kQ0jF2leePkErY_4dZ4WxeT7iiqQokdBPrgSlJjboPawt3iEiPlDRHPIYuy3ldUqY-YGwRgasaO7SAURZa-_tLWueGG51m29PjMymkuEzRHIb_ctSTojYKiwfDY/s320/20230705_092934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Questi 20km si rivelano piuttosto impegnativi per la natura del territorio, che è collinare di colline basse basse (mai oltre i 100m) ma anche piccole piccole, motivo per cui sono tantissime e si susseguono una dopo l'altra come gobbette, come grinze infinite. Brevi salitelle ripide, brevi discese, non sufficienti a far prendere velocità. E' come sgranare un rosario, ma sotto ad un sole già feroce di prima mattina. Intorno la selva fitta che brulica di fruscii e schiamazzi di animali, ronzare d'insetti e scalpiccio di uccelli e iguane. L'umidità è alle stelle, e l'aria si beve, non si respira. Su e giù. Su è giù. Su piano con il cambio morbido, giù a cannone per qualche istante. Di nuovo su, di nuovo giù. Ogni pochi metri.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxon8xIGFJ8Yu72mM65InN1ny-bw1_4P0ukcxowhyT5BQ52eQgUIGA-mwz1f2-iaK9-lsdS3F53U289AoUT94GesETZipIK2DM1rMlad86W1MuFB1zADShEkwtcjkDMbC1eMJWroo5HcBzqtWUI1IqMJXNXGflWLC2x9N6nxTBjXrX1GBP5hFKgWyG2o/s1209/20230705_102504.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxon8xIGFJ8Yu72mM65InN1ny-bw1_4P0ukcxowhyT5BQ52eQgUIGA-mwz1f2-iaK9-lsdS3F53U289AoUT94GesETZipIK2DM1rMlad86W1MuFB1zADShEkwtcjkDMbC1eMJWroo5HcBzqtWUI1IqMJXNXGflWLC2x9N6nxTBjXrX1GBP5hFKgWyG2o/s320/20230705_102504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FnZeu_gedDprBr2f2R665GFF9pyCd9fWOFA93naMF23BGmSGO90LfjCRaX9n0_pJlGcP18ie2DiEYUqDDkF7KiXMkyhMt9yWmqK3fvxeSLAYGspAxxPq6jHXE6-EhUFBALnr_5lMYYDZt0r1DdFqIqDE7ByrVbefRBhqs_S2vdYOmWab29Kft2VcQUA/s1209/20230705_102510.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-FnZeu_gedDprBr2f2R665GFF9pyCd9fWOFA93naMF23BGmSGO90LfjCRaX9n0_pJlGcP18ie2DiEYUqDDkF7KiXMkyhMt9yWmqK3fvxeSLAYGspAxxPq6jHXE6-EhUFBALnr_5lMYYDZt0r1DdFqIqDE7ByrVbefRBhqs_S2vdYOmWab29Kft2VcQUA/s320/20230705_102510.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgcVxuFyZgeMRdUv0gaPsWbXvANheHuy3iX7EqL5YfCb8ITg3vfCQbIoka8sAkerzKA0xLfAOaBlyvOpP-OK0XCTYu02mOptGS_Rix4ZdbgLI96qN2qSRwK5op9_sA41XZnmVtjCaRUJ0rrDNohsWUMRJrqFNwAPJ7mIwZyeJ6de0SonNbqE5IJPsl1A/s1209/20230705_102527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgcVxuFyZgeMRdUv0gaPsWbXvANheHuy3iX7EqL5YfCb8ITg3vfCQbIoka8sAkerzKA0xLfAOaBlyvOpP-OK0XCTYu02mOptGS_Rix4ZdbgLI96qN2qSRwK5op9_sA41XZnmVtjCaRUJ0rrDNohsWUMRJrqFNwAPJ7mIwZyeJ6de0SonNbqE5IJPsl1A/s320/20230705_102527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Passiamo dal pueblo di Santa Elena senza entrarci. Ci sarebbe un piccolo museo con delle mummie di bambini del XVIII secolo, ma abbiamo già tante cose da vedere, per oggi, e una scelta si impone. E' interessante leggere che questa cittadina, prima maya poi spagnola, fu rasa al suolo e data alle fiamme durante la guerra delle caste. Si chiama Nohcacab. Ele-na in lingua maya significa "case bruciate". Quindi i ribelli si riferivano a questo luogo come la località dell'incendio vendicatore. Poi un governatore messicano ebbe la brillante trovata pubblicitaria di denominare il pueblo Santa Elena, per raffreddare gli animi e mettere una pietra (tombale) sopra a quanto successo negli anni delle ribellioni degli indigeni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf_hk6f66Z9cmVAURO_bUFJztqqleUU0INN0XoiHRzh2sAqDyavGskUtN-WJHefqwgVv7xwp-NWXn_AsItC1TnUDzMW5dcEIBHFIe4ajZQw7-J-w-b_KRi3IKsMfqoXWDSfexg_P_QofC76TZVlA8o3uyjTjlYD26gWAG8LQokrrF-BASTKWfURsozZro/s1209/20230705_104432.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf_hk6f66Z9cmVAURO_bUFJztqqleUU0INN0XoiHRzh2sAqDyavGskUtN-WJHefqwgVv7xwp-NWXn_AsItC1TnUDzMW5dcEIBHFIe4ajZQw7-J-w-b_KRi3IKsMfqoXWDSfexg_P_QofC76TZVlA8o3uyjTjlYD26gWAG8LQokrrF-BASTKWfURsozZro/s320/20230705_104432.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XQnpLbvcZn878lor2kZto1_CGl9i9glF08A3kgN9Kr7YmHizj7vE1H0hZEr66Tt6V09eg02i3o3isF7SM5lnHl_Ieqg7D81b2N6sqOHGq9Bsy1OUhMDoBXHAIeVTOVNUyyKtroBxgDggiGHHI5OSzksA_GuHdgl72gVfGN5KN00iygosic1Z4jp0oEk/s1209/20230705_104738.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XQnpLbvcZn878lor2kZto1_CGl9i9glF08A3kgN9Kr7YmHizj7vE1H0hZEr66Tt6V09eg02i3o3isF7SM5lnHl_Ieqg7D81b2N6sqOHGq9Bsy1OUhMDoBXHAIeVTOVNUyyKtroBxgDggiGHHI5OSzksA_GuHdgl72gVfGN5KN00iygosic1Z4jp0oEk/s320/20230705_104738.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOb6pIGluViQhPqU6kSNHyOl7Krq6M3CLTbaK2sbcQ4noRW5iHQE-BnqE18bY5dsNuxwwgyLGoVP0QQteqcZxVB46hliBeV4G1GHPqHLs5E1HzrsNC8m2GCcU0PLEe5LhuuCB2By1t21zfFHbCwCNLMBuxs9vPvngImQ5qSNnBsBVU2PZLQUgqkgq3FVQ/s1209/20230705_104756.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOb6pIGluViQhPqU6kSNHyOl7Krq6M3CLTbaK2sbcQ4noRW5iHQE-BnqE18bY5dsNuxwwgyLGoVP0QQteqcZxVB46hliBeV4G1GHPqHLs5E1HzrsNC8m2GCcU0PLEe5LhuuCB2By1t21zfFHbCwCNLMBuxs9vPvngImQ5qSNnBsBVU2PZLQUgqkgq3FVQ/s320/20230705_104756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hOtr5kw-fo-lFHJRh0gDbOrzF_QaTbh-8W2r5khi0MbK13-jXTDnMKouI2VtXwYfCzTIfzAZ-oZAjHmi3q7clyjz_XknyIiERGC0PaC0PRC5q92YJ5EDoZiAcHop-mYR3S-bxCdAWQqhnvHIYiP6nUPeYNkCfzlGMcs-0M6R7re7id7Na-0KHcHDf3M/s1209/20230705_104759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hOtr5kw-fo-lFHJRh0gDbOrzF_QaTbh-8W2r5khi0MbK13-jXTDnMKouI2VtXwYfCzTIfzAZ-oZAjHmi3q7clyjz_XknyIiERGC0PaC0PRC5q92YJ5EDoZiAcHop-mYR3S-bxCdAWQqhnvHIYiP6nUPeYNkCfzlGMcs-0M6R7re7id7Na-0KHcHDf3M/s320/20230705_104759.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCyINI054R6_cETib_D2Yl6_z9k_LD471PN_uQiASsMXopzIneyMEZK66hgG_wTGwnr-0C0Es-fd5_S2YTBg_Z-UH05rLwwH8twzHEXplyt9bEQX5RToAGOn1edDVdvOUvi0xZDp8vpcJ9-ZWalJTX9-ebezE5frxVrBXenJgBam3kTP-TfZaNli1wcT0/s1209/20230705_104825.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCyINI054R6_cETib_D2Yl6_z9k_LD471PN_uQiASsMXopzIneyMEZK66hgG_wTGwnr-0C0Es-fd5_S2YTBg_Z-UH05rLwwH8twzHEXplyt9bEQX5RToAGOn1edDVdvOUvi0xZDp8vpcJ9-ZWalJTX9-ebezE5frxVrBXenJgBam3kTP-TfZaNli1wcT0/s320/20230705_104825.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriviamo, pagando in sudore e fatica, finalmente, dopo tante gobbette della strada, a Kabah ("signore dalla mano poderosa". Si tratta del secondo sito più importante, dopo Uxmal, della regione Puuc e relativa cultura indigena. Nemmeno qui ci sono altri visitatori. Solo due custodi, il bigliettaio e la ragazza del negozio dei souvenir. E molti operai al lavoro, perchè il sito è solo parzialmente scavato e dalla giungla e dalle colline intorno stanno emergendo nuovi edifici. Ci sono anche diversi cani pulciosetti e un gatto maya dal miagolio roco.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC32MA3a9lPf10wSaL8DifiUkWnlhpJyWjPJx7esBHYkwFeH67jv9-uEszrKv0inAy-k8tyR-hGXBVx77DWUhoDv11ru1JBCxvUmkno8Epf1dB-PAokOOtwjJw-7f8FQgQBY5oCa9QPHRAumylREVMrS9KPHg_kqG1y1MAmJfM251KlPqIXUlw-7LW5ao/s1209/20230705_112512.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC32MA3a9lPf10wSaL8DifiUkWnlhpJyWjPJx7esBHYkwFeH67jv9-uEszrKv0inAy-k8tyR-hGXBVx77DWUhoDv11ru1JBCxvUmkno8Epf1dB-PAokOOtwjJw-7f8FQgQBY5oCa9QPHRAumylREVMrS9KPHg_kqG1y1MAmJfM251KlPqIXUlw-7LW5ao/s320/20230705_112512.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrK7ju6IPARZ-rUsHprWA4JF9IDbQElZGIID-0HB9REflrlDKYAP_PwPP4_vVwskHVlsP6aTDj5l2Yv7CkM7rQ0F9h_IKSOC3GES6wtdM3tAhKOj4qSKO27QPc5Vyax9XWGRbsdkSe2SRidiVc7trbMuskKt4rwlZ6G16Tm9rJWJTSdZ3J5JVEhFLbCaU/s1209/20230705_112614.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrK7ju6IPARZ-rUsHprWA4JF9IDbQElZGIID-0HB9REflrlDKYAP_PwPP4_vVwskHVlsP6aTDj5l2Yv7CkM7rQ0F9h_IKSOC3GES6wtdM3tAhKOj4qSKO27QPc5Vyax9XWGRbsdkSe2SRidiVc7trbMuskKt4rwlZ6G16Tm9rJWJTSdZ3J5JVEhFLbCaU/s320/20230705_112614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Quest'area, abitata già dal III secolo a.C., fiorì poi tra VII e XI secolo d.C.; i conquistadores la trovarono già abbandonata da tempo, forse anche qui per problemi di approvvigionamento idrico (non ci sono sorgenti d'acqua nè fiumi intorno; si usavano cisterne per raccogliere l'acqua piovana). In maya si chiama anche Dzalkabilkik, cioè luogo dalle mani di sangue, perchè sugli edifici ci sono pitture di mani rosse.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDczDqVXRxLhXA3fiCbRhGMu4JWYqodTVM6byW_ry0PXz-c9_bmVBlIL06jDE1XKY15AMhNVjuVsSj17yLz7FFGXiSmCwSrU3LL538VLfNCXEewg3A5a5j0zq_rQact8vgWnO8hY4cs9AAnvW-R0EvN7UgTGFhu_Bz-rpLUl1dvrAY87vXggShCqzjJY/s1209/20230705_112750.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDczDqVXRxLhXA3fiCbRhGMu4JWYqodTVM6byW_ry0PXz-c9_bmVBlIL06jDE1XKY15AMhNVjuVsSj17yLz7FFGXiSmCwSrU3LL538VLfNCXEewg3A5a5j0zq_rQact8vgWnO8hY4cs9AAnvW-R0EvN7UgTGFhu_Bz-rpLUl1dvrAY87vXggShCqzjJY/s320/20230705_112750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>L'edificio più significativo è il cosiddetto Codz poop (stuoia arrotolata), anche detto tempio de los mascarones perchè la sua ampia facciata è completamente ricoperta di volti (quasi 300) del dio chac, con tanto di nasi sporgenti e proboscidali. In terra, tutto attorno, sono ammonticchiate alla rinfusa pietre incise con glifi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKyPvoVqsDqpz31I_AI2X5MB7NjsRcd3i7JtcIRpw5YU5A7Pdyp_1LqavQYHBRN4j9cs_fCVASCR_gIqiQY4e0yamSw9mUXbTQXWiNZhhHIdYDAi8sD1ZmODaeMNDePiTdLfC2z-Fv_gfdKdJcudyv5bZfhUGjtPqgSQeb1XDLgskcMJ0txeye5rlYHY/s1209/20230705_112951.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKyPvoVqsDqpz31I_AI2X5MB7NjsRcd3i7JtcIRpw5YU5A7Pdyp_1LqavQYHBRN4j9cs_fCVASCR_gIqiQY4e0yamSw9mUXbTQXWiNZhhHIdYDAi8sD1ZmODaeMNDePiTdLfC2z-Fv_gfdKdJcudyv5bZfhUGjtPqgSQeb1XDLgskcMJ0txeye5rlYHY/s320/20230705_112951.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJDJqI72hi5QcuxmeDdIjVxbD7RT_GEB0sl2yu2O0icqs6UrddEdJJpYR0zT4JFnzqMfbGrqlMqGKa1-8dV4U7mG4VuIHZ1LO2YmphWMPy1vDMaFBwTLDgXYqYuWElDKVY-VOlKX7InA-CgTnCpCqsRK7T_2S0NO1CYBCeON4Kxfq0gcJwSfCar9K6Kc/s1209/20230705_113043.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJDJqI72hi5QcuxmeDdIjVxbD7RT_GEB0sl2yu2O0icqs6UrddEdJJpYR0zT4JFnzqMfbGrqlMqGKa1-8dV4U7mG4VuIHZ1LO2YmphWMPy1vDMaFBwTLDgXYqYuWElDKVY-VOlKX7InA-CgTnCpCqsRK7T_2S0NO1CYBCeON4Kxfq0gcJwSfCar9K6Kc/s320/20230705_113043.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQTJYjg8X9JMwBmmoToP_Q7Zu0XJcJ4o53TDzBkNxFGo572QaJyhcVsFfhn5zHn8elOLFhA0iRbPPRzE-wTSG_PA_Y1vI6FoyfyavzFUSBmjg8L9fTlPumWaw4blOeKirATmlGbnNY_NEFMYgR8lPNkVkgrVuebj1U9zUTTxoNd2fnVMavet4s7mAMkU/s1209/20230705_113125.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQTJYjg8X9JMwBmmoToP_Q7Zu0XJcJ4o53TDzBkNxFGo572QaJyhcVsFfhn5zHn8elOLFhA0iRbPPRzE-wTSG_PA_Y1vI6FoyfyavzFUSBmjg8L9fTlPumWaw4blOeKirATmlGbnNY_NEFMYgR8lPNkVkgrVuebj1U9zUTTxoNd2fnVMavet4s7mAMkU/s320/20230705_113125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefVtRz1wGmkzwSG1uMKOqvwGFpipueU3dv11uO-ctgrm0b7NJSF76q7PB0LfMm7lh2XzQ9Soe_YhlQT4zAn8CVP43aMMIj48sR3IyPoRbZ4_EnY4quu5wlaHyskHOrB-fDso_hEEUszNawg9MwIAVF4i1hIMcBHH-uRyplVuoRhlMzm3g98aiAMnCRpY/s1209/20230705_113156.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjefVtRz1wGmkzwSG1uMKOqvwGFpipueU3dv11uO-ctgrm0b7NJSF76q7PB0LfMm7lh2XzQ9Soe_YhlQT4zAn8CVP43aMMIj48sR3IyPoRbZ4_EnY4quu5wlaHyskHOrB-fDso_hEEUszNawg9MwIAVF4i1hIMcBHH-uRyplVuoRhlMzm3g98aiAMnCRpY/s320/20230705_113156.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPiNnIbbFBevzoUFscvxha4k_JhVfkBC4_q38m_Xp3JQIjD91M5mGrD6PrzigFTPSwH27lMxDyxaKSl2NbebBSLxKEa9vmXw-D2zikuldKUM8Pas9SxBxaXmFJ4SrnouH8Y8E84npzCcpV9eTcZonKh6VlSmvf-26CmfASyVWkK3VKhsRqLEqdZ1gWeGw/s1209/20230705_113210.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPiNnIbbFBevzoUFscvxha4k_JhVfkBC4_q38m_Xp3JQIjD91M5mGrD6PrzigFTPSwH27lMxDyxaKSl2NbebBSLxKEa9vmXw-D2zikuldKUM8Pas9SxBxaXmFJ4SrnouH8Y8E84npzCcpV9eTcZonKh6VlSmvf-26CmfASyVWkK3VKhsRqLEqdZ1gWeGw/s320/20230705_113210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYb5E19ov5cpKrJoGBAmwHe40L1meO7QSKisihV04BPg1CyeWAm6TU6w7Tzc5Dlgxy2kFf_q7LeX8TxN7WRWjAE_tyu2k-On9mOEkNSSXN3HoQgJoQKrONyBZO5pUD1eJpKmTDU0481AiW2mIzCBst5kfgHaOF-qDK_GTG0qRuCFj-xqvy06GxlMD9ppo/s1209/20230705_113305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYb5E19ov5cpKrJoGBAmwHe40L1meO7QSKisihV04BPg1CyeWAm6TU6w7Tzc5Dlgxy2kFf_q7LeX8TxN7WRWjAE_tyu2k-On9mOEkNSSXN3HoQgJoQKrONyBZO5pUD1eJpKmTDU0481AiW2mIzCBst5kfgHaOF-qDK_GTG0qRuCFj-xqvy06GxlMD9ppo/s320/20230705_113305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sulla facciata opposta ci sono due "atlanti", due figure strutture architettoniche a forma di figura maschile, una acefala e l'altra con maschera di giaguaro (un sovrano?). Solo pochi siti maya hanno conservato figure umane tridimensionali.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLpBl2OC0KiQ8rVlhKHGlSj_EbrO4VGP2MmiJ3mAilKidSd6BykZxfLLTJpVV6fKKKtrtVv7DznSQBph3Jg7XhWpYpC9eMehV7FtmQchh6fjastNdBF1LssDiTDVLNEKOhzvL1U1bkkd1RMJynrMLyHEvdB7d4ONkirnG6yoeDYm3-ElCJhCKrG0OJn8/s1209/20230705_113625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLpBl2OC0KiQ8rVlhKHGlSj_EbrO4VGP2MmiJ3mAilKidSd6BykZxfLLTJpVV6fKKKtrtVv7DznSQBph3Jg7XhWpYpC9eMehV7FtmQchh6fjastNdBF1LssDiTDVLNEKOhzvL1U1bkkd1RMJynrMLyHEvdB7d4ONkirnG6yoeDYm3-ElCJhCKrG0OJn8/s320/20230705_113625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RjmAIx6YAYvnua4bxfTtchq1MB2HOsZ4mjg07nJqotJDPQp7rhMorjcohWBgvPW4vczgtFBOzoE_4StI1JLnwbf3St8qQs1hLk4lkm9SKZusOWuAij1PsYRlJynNlXnDu47MqoCiNk-zg93qJPsHdrKzQ-IGGuhX7nitSvs14slaE9sPt8NoyDNXRq4/s1209/20230705_113645.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2RjmAIx6YAYvnua4bxfTtchq1MB2HOsZ4mjg07nJqotJDPQp7rhMorjcohWBgvPW4vczgtFBOzoE_4StI1JLnwbf3St8qQs1hLk4lkm9SKZusOWuAij1PsYRlJynNlXnDu47MqoCiNk-zg93qJPsHdrKzQ-IGGuhX7nitSvs14slaE9sPt8NoyDNXRq4/s320/20230705_113645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhYJx1PQvYHHmSSOtN5N5g0axDoScEK45-aJqiFXt0fVshVKd6fv0qG1pSIvUCaFZvUQ6s5tskU0-OKnNXRBwNcwiPOhdPnl8D_UFAAIAul-85Gq2lKNXrFtXX4imXuGYQQu9qXHuFcSDg6AXIdwGfvqQHy-TI2b3gcKjwuvbUcVIxttKedZG1PohAMo/s1209/20230705_113656.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhYJx1PQvYHHmSSOtN5N5g0axDoScEK45-aJqiFXt0fVshVKd6fv0qG1pSIvUCaFZvUQ6s5tskU0-OKnNXRBwNcwiPOhdPnl8D_UFAAIAul-85Gq2lKNXrFtXX4imXuGYQQu9qXHuFcSDg6AXIdwGfvqQHy-TI2b3gcKjwuvbUcVIxttKedZG1PohAMo/s320/20230705_113656.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4SvXe3RMisyLbOO1B76Kv5yF1JmKsPvqAZgvDrux0k58kaFGDur_wjrbFpOKey5miZTFXYm_iW-SRWWW-4YLiTXlhLgmzhMO2kopFPbkkGGQW1bdpWCAtIE1bnX9BmFM0aTOENAroWZZHKubQjf4jGjh1asrGaG8at1nsAh5WcjxcrF57-M7Je5Psdg/s1209/20230705_113701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4SvXe3RMisyLbOO1B76Kv5yF1JmKsPvqAZgvDrux0k58kaFGDur_wjrbFpOKey5miZTFXYm_iW-SRWWW-4YLiTXlhLgmzhMO2kopFPbkkGGQW1bdpWCAtIE1bnX9BmFM0aTOENAroWZZHKubQjf4jGjh1asrGaG8at1nsAh5WcjxcrF57-M7Je5Psdg/s320/20230705_113701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dL_a4h--kPZBvTpL37beeRKfbA4V6ah3ZShSrcPTi7buJCfqOWg-DhofpbHzMm1vhIv1l6sIi9mNadKg25v7tRLGqNLBFi-N_Rm5TZN86o5SVmVHVXCG1i-l5HT7VMh6E2m99MAeMlcavCpKV9tgMFEeCf1K3lDhuyNvY7VmRtdX15ADoVIjHibZd5k/s1209/20230705_113854.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dL_a4h--kPZBvTpL37beeRKfbA4V6ah3ZShSrcPTi7buJCfqOWg-DhofpbHzMm1vhIv1l6sIi9mNadKg25v7tRLGqNLBFi-N_Rm5TZN86o5SVmVHVXCG1i-l5HT7VMh6E2m99MAeMlcavCpKV9tgMFEeCf1K3lDhuyNvY7VmRtdX15ADoVIjHibZd5k/s320/20230705_113854.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver superato una piramide e altri edifici ridotti a rudere, si incrocia El palacio, detto anche Teocalli, con diversi portali e colonne, esempio di architettura Puuc.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgOgOIwsztfUETms_s_nkQO_jSJzDH2Nx1UkOjh16mdaLwqwjEx6lU8BkFOWPX2ruifZt5OVsjrLXmLb0gJ6guE44TuAu3RKSbctAcmsqhNko3l9-6lv3MVn4JCggsIZh3wK59yR4xvXy_SDFy2vJHZ-ywd_wt1Vh-NYqLfQ3kXrGnlAtskOxAi6L9sE/s1209/20230705_114114.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgOgOIwsztfUETms_s_nkQO_jSJzDH2Nx1UkOjh16mdaLwqwjEx6lU8BkFOWPX2ruifZt5OVsjrLXmLb0gJ6guE44TuAu3RKSbctAcmsqhNko3l9-6lv3MVn4JCggsIZh3wK59yR4xvXy_SDFy2vJHZ-ywd_wt1Vh-NYqLfQ3kXrGnlAtskOxAi6L9sE/s320/20230705_114114.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtACyMCxiiJFYptFR_3AqhXaQKLUJoVomwdEFXDJJx4maM2bd5XB5YNn2bVd1o7dtb6_tTx8AAytO4yC2VPDBIBXb3NUjMVp3vcZgt5PM06vBzVDwGNx4KoW2fsQwGk9W38LgPM2CuWgPhYZt95e7wTjslJtRWvs1BWGjS-w7JvGzk0K4YIvmm5u4SoQ/s1209/20230705_114347.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtACyMCxiiJFYptFR_3AqhXaQKLUJoVomwdEFXDJJx4maM2bd5XB5YNn2bVd1o7dtb6_tTx8AAytO4yC2VPDBIBXb3NUjMVp3vcZgt5PM06vBzVDwGNx4KoW2fsQwGk9W38LgPM2CuWgPhYZt95e7wTjslJtRWvs1BWGjS-w7JvGzk0K4YIvmm5u4SoQ/s320/20230705_114347.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeiXSN7LhnFVKNH9PnWZqc_pybVfQBXne0eW-MKwT6R2766-Ebarm9wDZ9VwmlD3hTbLDhvxQT1fOiScgUuzFBCwQr7hj1rMWg5gmWqR1RUq6c7K4G7cXuIEEFj_eyjTDRsmxOOBKy0QLh_YOeEb4_l33PxXhtBSA48goOrujrE9cUzS9QmmaVKxVPLc/s1209/20230705_114352.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeiXSN7LhnFVKNH9PnWZqc_pybVfQBXne0eW-MKwT6R2766-Ebarm9wDZ9VwmlD3hTbLDhvxQT1fOiScgUuzFBCwQr7hj1rMWg5gmWqR1RUq6c7K4G7cXuIEEFj_eyjTDRsmxOOBKy0QLh_YOeEb4_l33PxXhtBSA48goOrujrE9cUzS9QmmaVKxVPLc/s320/20230705_114352.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSkfQ0t4pd6vSoqsn4yDkJH4PnUGTR-Gj2YOd72_EaLH3jji1IdsGMPAbDM4vavJYEZB5pnwf1IjP5sB2XU1gjM-_5Sjo0-Ve5Q0fgyCiK0JCFsVIX0mQZnWnQOxvi_BM0LNXSHthwGcZApoqk0pp34cr4YctSSEyisMoOQhDTDpEslhbShZbH4PNicA/s1209/20230705_114654.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSkfQ0t4pd6vSoqsn4yDkJH4PnUGTR-Gj2YOd72_EaLH3jji1IdsGMPAbDM4vavJYEZB5pnwf1IjP5sB2XU1gjM-_5Sjo0-Ve5Q0fgyCiK0JCFsVIX0mQZnWnQOxvi_BM0LNXSHthwGcZApoqk0pp34cr4YctSSEyisMoOQhDTDpEslhbShZbH4PNicA/s320/20230705_114654.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finita la visita, torno a recuperare Gigi che è rimasto all'ingresso a riposare in compagnia del custode e dei suoi canetti. Ora ci aspettano 30km di sola selva, quindi facciamo scorta d'acqua, un bel sospiro e partiamo ad affrontare le colline (Puuc, appunto).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaZOBgY4hz5nFDmiYpPZ_wcipdmQMHQDbHpcaFlk9Noi1ollV3OShVFjE_nO6vVngVjAdLdSGs1suF_Wp44MaMKbcsVNe7OyEwVJiEfPnqZQN-vuy3bsxmVpX8_SpIg77DPH1s41a1IejlCzLjzaYtb-f7fzUkT6dUiAAK6b-S9AAJhFqpQXg0ZKyG_3I/s1209/20230705_115338.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaZOBgY4hz5nFDmiYpPZ_wcipdmQMHQDbHpcaFlk9Noi1ollV3OShVFjE_nO6vVngVjAdLdSGs1suF_Wp44MaMKbcsVNe7OyEwVJiEfPnqZQN-vuy3bsxmVpX8_SpIg77DPH1s41a1IejlCzLjzaYtb-f7fzUkT6dUiAAK6b-S9AAJhFqpQXg0ZKyG_3I/s320/20230705_115338.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In breve raggiungiamo il confine tra gli stato di Yucatan, ormai alle spalle, e Campeche, che ci attende per i prossimi giorni con le sue perle nascoste tra oceano e giungla. Dobbiamo rallentare per un posto di blocco di militari armati fino ai denti, ma ci lasciano andare senza troppe storie. L'arco segna il passaggio in una nuova regione.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqZI4F_wSnbeIMC_ueXEU0XGU7yLWbkI5ZIHTHCSN33yocYP_uDkcfdXOxf18XFoJKHWfy2S7qhyvNu9QGZSuFBlH-8Mhe1Qn1bEbLqG95MbVS7-u4dp81m-yagP2nqOZ0Lo-lJ6Q9fDTP11H1nKw_lf9x1_J1Q5NcGnYoMINLfFhGotIkEj3g6WO_mM/s1209/20230705_123947.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqZI4F_wSnbeIMC_ueXEU0XGU7yLWbkI5ZIHTHCSN33yocYP_uDkcfdXOxf18XFoJKHWfy2S7qhyvNu9QGZSuFBlH-8Mhe1Qn1bEbLqG95MbVS7-u4dp81m-yagP2nqOZ0Lo-lJ6Q9fDTP11H1nKw_lf9x1_J1Q5NcGnYoMINLfFhGotIkEj3g6WO_mM/s320/20230705_123947.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ma il paesaggio, ovviamente, resta immutato: selva e collinette. Collinette e selva. Un caldo devastante, gran fatica. Poi si alza il vento, il cielo si incupisce e l'aria rinfresca. Tutto in pochi attimi. Lampi, tuoni da incrinare la volta del cielo e inizia a diluviare. Chac è puntuale anche oggi e non manca di infradiciarci completamente, cosa che, tuttavia, non è così spiacevole: abbassa la temperatura da cottura a fuoco lento in cui pedalavamo. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixzLuF0p6p8odko47YpLZW1z_qJOFfmN5De6cM-TTpyfLgxtJyEaijKJTzJmom9FMxSPmZgH1ij-_LeiFttBPtKZnyA-K4oj2A2RIYZw5CHWB9GxnX1MkUiAQwkxCvK7H22qOdy6q3O-lOOQKoKziQyYqfhcoxvb1VGxXrep4k2JdNld1aWSvgLNHLG-U/s1209/20230705_124937.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixzLuF0p6p8odko47YpLZW1z_qJOFfmN5De6cM-TTpyfLgxtJyEaijKJTzJmom9FMxSPmZgH1ij-_LeiFttBPtKZnyA-K4oj2A2RIYZw5CHWB9GxnX1MkUiAQwkxCvK7H22qOdy6q3O-lOOQKoKziQyYqfhcoxvb1VGxXrep4k2JdNld1aWSvgLNHLG-U/s320/20230705_124937.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNE_GQFEqNe8Jg_k018-9ldNTI15B-HpAlWAk1lN-vvhVDwIvCp9jMTFyni90TG7aWKXuktdk2lYlPh6gTqzLRoeSISJPDpuScxsShFA5scNo2YCejvElQ7wcNJyS4K8-tIpUz6y7HUwTkN6KFEcwtGA0bnhNDHhGLUb0BEV7vZXUk78r70Row3q3RWbM/s1209/20230705_130617.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNE_GQFEqNe8Jg_k018-9ldNTI15B-HpAlWAk1lN-vvhVDwIvCp9jMTFyni90TG7aWKXuktdk2lYlPh6gTqzLRoeSISJPDpuScxsShFA5scNo2YCejvElQ7wcNJyS4K8-tIpUz6y7HUwTkN6KFEcwtGA0bnhNDHhGLUb0BEV7vZXUk78r70Row3q3RWbM/s320/20230705_130617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIM7LyptNNUsmfPyzx3dcXiVS3TS8q7qt9Si7fBgQP9Ec67EIaGBwfL8PCUExa2XzjlcV8dEYk9ombrBVYPRuven7aTfepyyFL8kdZOx_F8kVsUNDgWNtYIhaCbt9JAzpcnrUQpymqbmG8cxltoheo7Zj-nITF0Rp8MpGadzniAOdyHnEg9Nylwwt0so4/s1209/20230705_130758.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIM7LyptNNUsmfPyzx3dcXiVS3TS8q7qt9Si7fBgQP9Ec67EIaGBwfL8PCUExa2XzjlcV8dEYk9ombrBVYPRuven7aTfepyyFL8kdZOx_F8kVsUNDgWNtYIhaCbt9JAzpcnrUQpymqbmG8cxltoheo7Zj-nITF0Rp8MpGadzniAOdyHnEg9Nylwwt0so4/s320/20230705_130758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQ9t7q2VoTFMypAsfQqEFqldH5XHGSxXOUhbkDhJA_jgcjtdlKpWam9iEP4wXShpgoqIvHmlzmgJzZf5JogMR4_NUMOmjo3p6I0YuhcigWCGaR85qinA6i6gbpyytwxvPecWmt11HU8oSsefXr88O55X--2DsCBd-9wTs0WtYeofnXZ5Na6lNowwu1Pw/s1209/20230705_130808.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQ9t7q2VoTFMypAsfQqEFqldH5XHGSxXOUhbkDhJA_jgcjtdlKpWam9iEP4wXShpgoqIvHmlzmgJzZf5JogMR4_NUMOmjo3p6I0YuhcigWCGaR85qinA6i6gbpyytwxvPecWmt11HU8oSsefXr88O55X--2DsCBd-9wTs0WtYeofnXZ5Na6lNowwu1Pw/s320/20230705_130808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo la nostra tappa di metà giornata, Bolonchen de Rejon. La prima parte del nome significa "nove pozzi" in maya, la seconda ricorda l'avvocato e padre costituente Manuel Crescencio Rejon, nato qui nel 1799). Il paese sorge vicino alle rovine maya dell'insediamento originario, anche se molte sono state abbattute per riutilizzarne le pietre come materiale edile, tra XVI e XIX secolo. Ci sono anche dei cenotes e alcune grotte sacre, nei dintorni. Oggi si tratta di un paese sonnolento e un po' lercio, con la sua bella discarica a cielo aperto a bordo strada, i perri marci ovunque (per lo più intimoriti dall'uso a prender legnate, e troppo deboli per poter correre... Ma uno no, uno insegue Gigi e quasi lo azzanna al polpaccio) e un'umanità più o meno dolente, più o meno indaffarata. Passano anche tanti uomini in motorino amati di fucile. Per la caccia. Ai gringos. Noi ci fermiamo in un negozietto a prendere da bere e veniamo attorniati da cani e canetti malaticci, che fanno grande tristezza, e tenerezza, e un po' schifo perchè basta guardarli per prendere due diversi tipi di micosi aggressiva. Certo che la gente potrebbe aver un pochino più cura... Ma come, poi? Il veterinario costa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEj7K0E5XGnVxVy8DDun5XsIDgk_Qe0gRfCSraTsl6SQWqHUYzgK-bRDqS-eQEsYYT5FZ0yspv_wijWp7pTumD1doNmJfrpzvP6b10Jk1FvW4ke_I3r9RCkxF5pN4bnN8W8RmJ_vKtRbkKs5L-j68iMOEZw2a4QqFpz6jCQRTqcFHLDWQz07Ha8ugCmiA/s1209/20230705_140649.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEj7K0E5XGnVxVy8DDun5XsIDgk_Qe0gRfCSraTsl6SQWqHUYzgK-bRDqS-eQEsYYT5FZ0yspv_wijWp7pTumD1doNmJfrpzvP6b10Jk1FvW4ke_I3r9RCkxF5pN4bnN8W8RmJ_vKtRbkKs5L-j68iMOEZw2a4QqFpz6jCQRTqcFHLDWQz07Ha8ugCmiA/s320/20230705_140649.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeLXNlt2Hwh4nKTyb55d_81LQWoI2pydSfzjKn0y0k7j8S6y9X8Tksf7W1CPCyaWuvrdM6Uv0I-yX0bWtu31JBUIUPMDCOsWsNyJ5ihtb2vTs00YZK5PyE7w_Vvd-aBvtKA0mibEOA2sSOxJIxKqWjm122iERZBiCR95IKIVV3QqvNU7pFh_Akrl1pldo/s1209/20230705_140831.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeLXNlt2Hwh4nKTyb55d_81LQWoI2pydSfzjKn0y0k7j8S6y9X8Tksf7W1CPCyaWuvrdM6Uv0I-yX0bWtu31JBUIUPMDCOsWsNyJ5ihtb2vTs00YZK5PyE7w_Vvd-aBvtKA0mibEOA2sSOxJIxKqWjm122iERZBiCR95IKIVV3QqvNU7pFh_Akrl1pldo/s320/20230705_140831.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4qGrwHNqDUn3sK0dmDhnNyqK1KRnq_mVw-cZDECBIMPvMhYdnJy3iIMRUPO1ohLhYtvsX3bVD26PgVcYoXxxFo0wreIUJtATx-xkv2IVxwVJlqIfNIL6ysT5ZYAiLS4bogzCnvlC44BoTPpdqESNB6jl7JxC6-Bh5RqQJu03KT90whltrTUHWBpynL0/s1209/20230705_140847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4qGrwHNqDUn3sK0dmDhnNyqK1KRnq_mVw-cZDECBIMPvMhYdnJy3iIMRUPO1ohLhYtvsX3bVD26PgVcYoXxxFo0wreIUJtATx-xkv2IVxwVJlqIfNIL6ysT5ZYAiLS4bogzCnvlC44BoTPpdqESNB6jl7JxC6-Bh5RqQJu03KT90whltrTUHWBpynL0/s320/20230705_140847.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_8293UiorfHPw3WkOyLpHplWAfvrqYObjqnMYqvjqIWwikfAV02PKS1HjQdOn5-9YagOhGO9phzC4MwF5_me-sRCjy-_mRl4sPrVBqEjN11wd3r9-33DzYHCMDSwI7iz-ck31R97xzXw8_5J09Gm2YbSFiFOq4hnWNfV4QX7FwE-7YIXbvgRi7-rNl0/s1209/20230705_141230.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_8293UiorfHPw3WkOyLpHplWAfvrqYObjqnMYqvjqIWwikfAV02PKS1HjQdOn5-9YagOhGO9phzC4MwF5_me-sRCjy-_mRl4sPrVBqEjN11wd3r9-33DzYHCMDSwI7iz-ck31R97xzXw8_5J09Gm2YbSFiFOq4hnWNfV4QX7FwE-7YIXbvgRi7-rNl0/s320/20230705_141230.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cAMAvRQHOvg8O0HpLzd4z3bF_h18yKxx5c3OOhJAsglK9knjRd_UeOFa7RDBEeUcC2iPyIsJBgRYER4yg52oMpevfeMpmbMeFurc0pArMV1AupLlNrjbHjEcxQJad0b6Iy0vqNx7o2VW4yuGDszxGiKTtt_PaErYRP5UJVXYVAmFIGFusH90TdlOVrM/s1209/20230705_141237.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cAMAvRQHOvg8O0HpLzd4z3bF_h18yKxx5c3OOhJAsglK9knjRd_UeOFa7RDBEeUcC2iPyIsJBgRYER4yg52oMpevfeMpmbMeFurc0pArMV1AupLlNrjbHjEcxQJad0b6Iy0vqNx7o2VW4yuGDszxGiKTtt_PaErYRP5UJVXYVAmFIGFusH90TdlOVrM/s320/20230705_141237.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtubo08X1KpEzNXzznWAoSIEwdApOOlLLA5urDEHn32ZpUy4VPaqYeDucSqj1Uf91mjJF_eWZMTPLWhVFOlA9WUVz_LVZWLZv-kSdLpsQTn6aSDnok8kwojlMck_l3VuOeZhfKeLOJemofePhbF4jnFiwZo1Y6BoHVJdMLbz9OTKDTzH0oiMsDlA6kLBs/s1209/20230705_144513.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtubo08X1KpEzNXzznWAoSIEwdApOOlLLA5urDEHn32ZpUy4VPaqYeDucSqj1Uf91mjJF_eWZMTPLWhVFOlA9WUVz_LVZWLZv-kSdLpsQTn6aSDnok8kwojlMck_l3VuOeZhfKeLOJemofePhbF4jnFiwZo1Y6BoHVJdMLbz9OTKDTzH0oiMsDlA6kLBs/s320/20230705_144513.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVCf7RQ6jsKCd8v51T6gk_3wlTHoM8ySRIEl3_wVv6o9I4NaJJISDHskpT5IaVoSvRnj5iR6hm634gSvXZ19cshkfDXyBUkEM08v2AvI4Svb-oVDWfsn53XVLHyFJtMVaflUePi_Qa0_rcvS1hx5IjRi9iryEg8Y7JczAmUZ-HeNmaITbqrD1Yjsgu6pk/s1209/20230705_144541.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVCf7RQ6jsKCd8v51T6gk_3wlTHoM8ySRIEl3_wVv6o9I4NaJJISDHskpT5IaVoSvRnj5iR6hm634gSvXZ19cshkfDXyBUkEM08v2AvI4Svb-oVDWfsn53XVLHyFJtMVaflUePi_Qa0_rcvS1hx5IjRi9iryEg8Y7JczAmUZ-HeNmaITbqrD1Yjsgu6pk/s320/20230705_144541.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo, e mancano ancora 35km. Che non sono tanti, ma sembrano lunghissimi, perchè siamo stanchi e accaldati e la giornata è stata così lunga e piena da sembrare in corso da 47 ore. Ci lasciamo le collinette gobbette alle spalle, pe avventurarci in una zona di alture più significative separate da valloni degni di tale nome. Qui è tutto un fiorire di aziende agricole, campi coltivati a mais e frutta e silos di stoccaggio cereali. Si vedono contadini curvi a lavorare, perchè la terra è bassa dappertutto, ma qui forse un po' di più. Si vedono trattori e macchinari, e cartelli che pubblicizzano le sementi. C'è anche un campo mennonita. Qui in Messico ci sono nutrite comunità fedeli a questa confessione. Dalla Russia giunsero in Canada a fine '800, e dal Canada a qui, nei primi decenni del '900, a coltivare questa terra rossa rossa come il sangue.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di arrivare Gigi deve fermarsi per urgenze fisiologiche. Sceglie con cura una zona in mezzo agli alberi, a ridosso di un tunnel di scolo che passa sotto alla strada e offre grande privacy. Io lo aspetto a bordo carreggiata, qualche metro avanti. Dopo un istante lo sento gridare: "Pipistrelli! Un sacco! Escono!" e fare un balzo indietro, ignudo e disarmato. Il tunnel di cui sopra è la tana di una nutrita colonia di murcielagos, disturbata da Gigi. Anche oggi una cosa l'abbiamo imparata: mai, e dico MAI, fare la cacca nei tunnel nella giungla. Qualcuno ci vive!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh88e75kqwjJrDW5vUC5N_b3ZVF4KO6O3SJkSnAB27jNWQPAD7ziRYJOI982__2pkLUtqr25pfDO2kNqm9Zi9cF8ud5m3h6Ev92_5jVfRvaWv3t3fU-61c4uw9O3YOtfsdoEvTqV2hSd1mofQYpVJcyPSmzg27r6jMHZDCXakx6mOPBnIRQhzxU_KQBdvA/s1209/20230705_162034.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh88e75kqwjJrDW5vUC5N_b3ZVF4KO6O3SJkSnAB27jNWQPAD7ziRYJOI982__2pkLUtqr25pfDO2kNqm9Zi9cF8ud5m3h6Ev92_5jVfRvaWv3t3fU-61c4uw9O3YOtfsdoEvTqV2hSd1mofQYpVJcyPSmzg27r6jMHZDCXakx6mOPBnIRQhzxU_KQBdvA/s320/20230705_162034.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando stanno per esplodermi gli occhi come popcorn dal caldo, e i piedi sono salamelle bollite, arriva un provvidenziale scroscio di pioggia e rinfrescarci. E così arriviamo a Hopelchén, la meta di oggi. Possiamo scegliere tra diverse strutture, e alla fine optiamo per quella più in centro, che affaccia proprio sulla piazza della chiesa. C'è un clima rilassato ma vivace: si vedono negozi aperti, gente a passeggio e nei tavolini delle taquerie, la musica scivola fuori dalle finestre e inonda la strada. Bello, mi piace, è il posto giusto per noi, stasera.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Yh5U5ZhbeQeT3apMeWr9fbbAFOQ4ZxBiOMTsdfiKGbcg5eBL7eBZx53Qoyo4PnyByk1cw1UpTDMJUzxJPY7B1xVCnVKopuYXvNTapMtLFrYWSpBslGdc-Ddh9Rnht5L6hBi3vuXv3tCQ1Jh0gO6dychZdnVQUNwuaenPQzVeRCpigUZusugukgCTix4/s1209/20230705_165918.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Yh5U5ZhbeQeT3apMeWr9fbbAFOQ4ZxBiOMTsdfiKGbcg5eBL7eBZx53Qoyo4PnyByk1cw1UpTDMJUzxJPY7B1xVCnVKopuYXvNTapMtLFrYWSpBslGdc-Ddh9Rnht5L6hBi3vuXv3tCQ1Jh0gO6dychZdnVQUNwuaenPQzVeRCpigUZusugukgCTix4/s320/20230705_165918.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAD7fVyCI7k0oo-G1nzsyLM4aVzoncWrtJ_zeXCbZEE4ap6E36JI5sm9l6aWDnF1CfQQeRS2FGU-nYpqJeSbzCmoU_neQGJjn3d6uEaV00n1J6qEcsUmqP99PHResj9tdTcLYiamiwHBoEDGJbUblM2RiyEg-Tre9PpdSycY8paeiPuaw53HA3BDHYVzU/s1209/20230705_165923.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAD7fVyCI7k0oo-G1nzsyLM4aVzoncWrtJ_zeXCbZEE4ap6E36JI5sm9l6aWDnF1CfQQeRS2FGU-nYpqJeSbzCmoU_neQGJjn3d6uEaV00n1J6qEcsUmqP99PHResj9tdTcLYiamiwHBoEDGJbUblM2RiyEg-Tre9PpdSycY8paeiPuaw53HA3BDHYVzU/s320/20230705_165923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prendiamo una stanza a Los Arcos, hotel che sembra decente da fuori, terribile alla reception (che sta in un portico condiviso con un ristorantino sporchino) e più che passabile nelle camere. Certo le pareti sono decorate con disegni e macchie di ogni colore e forma...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4iBY89a9LhhrE-WpAOICAQjYSOIlxPUiIeaLsTNjkECXLQlYizYR2DLoDOS7iidjGEyvgkyTrGR7pBiNyUYhUKfZ7TlEJ0ptT_986J6LLnBusl6hBU-UksizyHZ7Z7NiPGwKdNLdLQXZ31BsEnN9dG8GJxdWIfZWm-cD7bpx4E_Upk0lPDrX4zAHuDIg/s1209/20230705_171756.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4iBY89a9LhhrE-WpAOICAQjYSOIlxPUiIeaLsTNjkECXLQlYizYR2DLoDOS7iidjGEyvgkyTrGR7pBiNyUYhUKfZ7TlEJ0ptT_986J6LLnBusl6hBU-UksizyHZ7Z7NiPGwKdNLdLQXZ31BsEnN9dG8GJxdWIfZWm-cD7bpx4E_Upk0lPDrX4zAHuDIg/s320/20230705_171756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ma la stanza è spaziosa, fresca, con poche, grosse e ragionevoli cucarachas e al pian terreno. Entriamo in bici, quasi pedalando fino al letto. Ci godiamo il ventilatore e la penombra, dopo la doccia, per poi percorrere i ben 20 metri che ci separano da due supermercati, dove compriamo la cena. Stiamo evitando di mangiar fuori quando i locali non sono proprio lindi e scintillanti, perchè Gigi non si è ripreso del tutto. Intanto, nel pomeriggio e nella sera, organizzo tappe. Trovo esperienze che non vedo l'ora di vivere. Mi lascio trascinare dal viaggio, nel viaggio. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8WrminMkEv9tJn4JGKKxtBt8vB4OiiEsw0XKVHmJTB5noUB5rd_tB_f5gy43cxRDcBg8Y8HX4p0HceI2mkFv20onW7SreiB7xTPQfdPahKTnJDGygK454BpVkq-vzhns_aWubMnvtuLzin5s5Ui8iVb5zEfBqypE6PZ1PHbNdUNQAWqCmRHoLCojbHM/s979/20230705_171834.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8WrminMkEv9tJn4JGKKxtBt8vB4OiiEsw0XKVHmJTB5noUB5rd_tB_f5gy43cxRDcBg8Y8HX4p0HceI2mkFv20onW7SreiB7xTPQfdPahKTnJDGygK454BpVkq-vzhns_aWubMnvtuLzin5s5Ui8iVb5zEfBqypE6PZ1PHbNdUNQAWqCmRHoLCojbHM/s320/20230705_171834.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdtRwCHMzqsVAq-KuhYkweXffwu8yQ9BxXPhdzqB-1KpSVwQwri6doXk070A0b030hsXC31ZBqw63Xwn2R-Ss1xHxFX6g5KGAttZTAl2IhWux6KgmrMmyZvpRL753tqnUVdODjZ1tdL3DuUN66cJzVpqb4Dfp1v6iE6ITIDZ5sRGoqtkvKMuf2IGzBtY/s1209/20230705_180531.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdtRwCHMzqsVAq-KuhYkweXffwu8yQ9BxXPhdzqB-1KpSVwQwri6doXk070A0b030hsXC31ZBqw63Xwn2R-Ss1xHxFX6g5KGAttZTAl2IhWux6KgmrMmyZvpRL753tqnUVdODjZ1tdL3DuUN66cJzVpqb4Dfp1v6iE6ITIDZ5sRGoqtkvKMuf2IGzBtY/s320/20230705_180531.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBgTUEmlq00r5bzYtovfWqzm7NeNRtFk2C5eOt9RpXJG00BeLALfxwSAVKDkch12MkEHEonNRItUCp7S98oHxUqhjo08FAK-7FY11sv2vRZkK0AohXa5diQq01UNqXH1ubY73jc_8xzJywDmvbY1BIsshczugnQRdPGAJm4CPeYQVkcGq91ae6kvVmd6E/s979/20230705_180602.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBgTUEmlq00r5bzYtovfWqzm7NeNRtFk2C5eOt9RpXJG00BeLALfxwSAVKDkch12MkEHEonNRItUCp7S98oHxUqhjo08FAK-7FY11sv2vRZkK0AohXa5diQq01UNqXH1ubY73jc_8xzJywDmvbY1BIsshczugnQRdPGAJm4CPeYQVkcGq91ae6kvVmd6E/s320/20230705_180602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1i6ddqDDFHKVO_VodxqFuukzyLN8ocO6Y82iElK81dNDI4hEkSIcvBun8Cfy-O4LWGL_X1CXRSLURWY5cgsP45iaPQJ1sTjHH0IeXlObVkleAHX3Xf8ZK53S3nM-6KbzwR2-nEYcTfhafJotn5LsgLBfIBz4bGc9BXCMaekBboVVhar8sVULvhftTrI/s979/20230705_180638.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj1i6ddqDDFHKVO_VodxqFuukzyLN8ocO6Y82iElK81dNDI4hEkSIcvBun8Cfy-O4LWGL_X1CXRSLURWY5cgsP45iaPQJ1sTjHH0IeXlObVkleAHX3Xf8ZK53S3nM-6KbzwR2-nEYcTfhafJotn5LsgLBfIBz4bGc9BXCMaekBboVVhar8sVULvhftTrI/s320/20230705_180638.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i corridoi dell'hotel in stile Shining</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>6/7</div><div>Hopelchén-San Francisco de Campeche</div><div>87km</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Buongiorno! La tappona di ieri ci ha lasciati un po' rotti, un po' sfibrati, e quindi cerchiamo di ripigliarci con una bella colazione. Ma non con il burrito El cazo, deh. Mi sono svegliata presto e, frugando online, ho scoperto una nutrita comunità di indigeni di diversi pueblos, in Campeche, che offrono servizi di ecoturismo vero. Sicuramente faremo tappa presso una di queste, nella giungla della riserva di Calakmul, tra qualche giorno, e vedremo come vivono questi custodi della tradizione e della foresta. Ho iniziato anche a prendere qualche contatto per poter visitare un villaggio zapatista, in Chiapas. Non voglio negarmi la possibilità di conoscere meglio questa realtà, per quanto abbastanza fuori dalle rotte del turismo di massa e non facilmente raggiungibile.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifb0fcsaGFRjFQXPNsh92RNiyedDI4nd0bxecBPTGaxfUiHxOnrr5Sh9Yke4UHhve5oFYoBaAaX71ExrhWLYJequdVVUJUD7vdrW9ITK51Davdrx8YHUP8vFOdiZTDsecQ5TRWdOH2L4XygH8HYHvkH5o4pIVp_6Vy-9awTroPuiFhOnMOZPF2K3TiYr4/s1209/20230705_195117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifb0fcsaGFRjFQXPNsh92RNiyedDI4nd0bxecBPTGaxfUiHxOnrr5Sh9Yke4UHhve5oFYoBaAaX71ExrhWLYJequdVVUJUD7vdrW9ITK51Davdrx8YHUP8vFOdiZTDsecQ5TRWdOH2L4XygH8HYHvkH5o4pIVp_6Vy-9awTroPuiFhOnMOZPF2K3TiYr4/s320/20230705_195117.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQlRF1R8e2sU_vFZuTZftn_o-t4bKR5tvLDRRJy73KdZmR9mij9I-web9vUOyB3agB-KNGRdeG7HAeHvg3xYvNknRFvJ85j3dq1mzE77cf20fVf40ePBg5-PA4Bl_MbsyM6vgy-3XnafH837M6g3Nng2Q3XwpKB_ToXtCM6IRsM7NuF4b0KOxjNelHSI/s1209/20230706_083422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQlRF1R8e2sU_vFZuTZftn_o-t4bKR5tvLDRRJy73KdZmR9mij9I-web9vUOyB3agB-KNGRdeG7HAeHvg3xYvNknRFvJ85j3dq1mzE77cf20fVf40ePBg5-PA4Bl_MbsyM6vgy-3XnafH837M6g3Nng2Q3XwpKB_ToXtCM6IRsM7NuF4b0KOxjNelHSI/s320/20230706_083422.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prendiamo il largo pedalando già dal corridoio, e in breve siamo fuori dalla città. Ci imbattiamo in alcune rovine inattese: si tratta del piccolo sito di Tohcok, deserto e ancora chiuso, ma popolato da iguane giganti che si bevono il sole goccia a goccia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBisKah6QrbmBlAhINIrhyICiDUSa2bPdvu8J46lVqDaEiWdHApmbdbCtZ1tw4Lpoi_BMldPwa06LbwyMD6Fgf0z6iAfm0BhLG2yBRjb1JGhilna8CmX365Db2UcWv-DnplPeK2iXkhBuoZ9voRB77klVOfhPck6nMd6w9qcZHrYgvpOzGsUZdkGlHRTI/s1209/20230706_085949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBisKah6QrbmBlAhINIrhyICiDUSa2bPdvu8J46lVqDaEiWdHApmbdbCtZ1tw4Lpoi_BMldPwa06LbwyMD6Fgf0z6iAfm0BhLG2yBRjb1JGhilna8CmX365Db2UcWv-DnplPeK2iXkhBuoZ9voRB77klVOfhPck6nMd6w9qcZHrYgvpOzGsUZdkGlHRTI/s320/20230706_085949.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4LB2rDKLElexhbQz2079SawIbOft_z6jiLht6R99Lem3OgisqEkdj79g5nte2v5hrHnfZ_L7bhIER-XQH3GfHfKiZV-JByUoxBolPILAzt-DIu-HjfpAtuSMUJXxhn6o0guNZbn-fpz5o1aW5yjiGgnhbNlCDMviDNWPTqhTl7-wUNfNV9R6XI13UqIA/s1209/20230706_085959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4LB2rDKLElexhbQz2079SawIbOft_z6jiLht6R99Lem3OgisqEkdj79g5nte2v5hrHnfZ_L7bhIER-XQH3GfHfKiZV-JByUoxBolPILAzt-DIu-HjfpAtuSMUJXxhn6o0guNZbn-fpz5o1aW5yjiGgnhbNlCDMviDNWPTqhTl7-wUNfNV9R6XI13UqIA/s320/20230706_085959.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Imbocchiamo poi la lunghissima e drittissima strada che, senza mai uscirne, ci porterà nella capitale dello stato. Qui si susseguono pueblos abbastanza vivaci a breve distanza uno dall'altro, e la terra, sempre rossa rossa, è coltivata a mais e mango, peperoncino e agave.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQLWjBuKtO9Lvyzaj1g-nyA8jsx4I8I_0Awg3jAoBtjzb5yJ-g9LGjTQzHrslgTMF0Fqh2TTq6y2K6yAihm8CE6sk7eg4ZEDZlwYIg1N094rNBVT2JgxdX5RofsAnuMxMqTpH_-NeZynty8-baRmSWayvo5yCrAMoRxnJJRoSSAse5_aimfpi8NLRr28/s1155/20230706_092611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="866" data-original-width="1155" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQLWjBuKtO9Lvyzaj1g-nyA8jsx4I8I_0Awg3jAoBtjzb5yJ-g9LGjTQzHrslgTMF0Fqh2TTq6y2K6yAihm8CE6sk7eg4ZEDZlwYIg1N094rNBVT2JgxdX5RofsAnuMxMqTpH_-NeZynty8-baRmSWayvo5yCrAMoRxnJJRoSSAse5_aimfpi8NLRr28/s320/20230706_092611.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyuYrT5YijPR85qjpXMhBrtkzg4ilYlx0Cf0XMAFeAPw5AruCiwCvR_w1zEPblihjJSuQ5x55qmnRoDUKeEiHxAmulUTDsaVyNGj4VtUDbwHxzrkobFZIT4OEC8kjIHvp6KsQOCCMDfkUWnFVAtpmRMtwKkjvzEV_8BzYbepdLfkfyyG2dE00VIS8bn_M/s1103/20230706_092707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="1103" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyuYrT5YijPR85qjpXMhBrtkzg4ilYlx0Cf0XMAFeAPw5AruCiwCvR_w1zEPblihjJSuQ5x55qmnRoDUKeEiHxAmulUTDsaVyNGj4VtUDbwHxzrkobFZIT4OEC8kjIHvp6KsQOCCMDfkUWnFVAtpmRMtwKkjvzEV_8BzYbepdLfkfyyG2dE00VIS8bn_M/s320/20230706_092707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">A Santa Fe Dos assistiamo a una lezione di educazione fisica all'aperto, che consiste in esercizi a corpo libero, in divisa, di adolescenti schiamazzanti, sotto al grande campo coperto di lamiera che si trova in centro al paese. Sotto ai portici del palazzo comunale, di fronte, è in corso una riunione molto partecipata. Ad ascoltare uno che parla, su sedie di plastica bianca, ci sono solo uomini. Le donne sono tutte inchiodate alle bancarelle e dietro ai banconi dei negozi, con i bambini.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyrJNNthd32bB3nKriNjLG_rVBwS8kFAEo5Vk-nsZzHyqPbjprmsZMS1Fd4nJAREsXzfsCraR5LueXgZN7WMhw9cmTTJaFnBLuHAKrRMc7mFszJRXHx3QrinwvIlE0OlwllP1pO88JHejy3i73XV5aCY5n-ffG21JAJ4SAGFyhI30plObiFSuprwIEB0c/s1209/20230706_095459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyrJNNthd32bB3nKriNjLG_rVBwS8kFAEo5Vk-nsZzHyqPbjprmsZMS1Fd4nJAREsXzfsCraR5LueXgZN7WMhw9cmTTJaFnBLuHAKrRMc7mFszJRXHx3QrinwvIlE0OlwllP1pO88JHejy3i73XV5aCY5n-ffG21JAJ4SAGFyhI30plObiFSuprwIEB0c/s320/20230706_095459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzN1UFy150_13-BF7QczV-oYFcNJH-ZSOTcCY79-M-Wa0NudrrfZR_5spq98kSHjHMgeDAsgvSObOU6hXkgJVldfqClbei5PGmP2LjLzAY848W3Q48tdmSLw1DEEBMG0BVj1yuOfz_4wdFqqOHumgc8MtSJlg4onOqkYEc6Yh9CkHT_eiajsXst1dWHmQ/s1209/20230706_095623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzN1UFy150_13-BF7QczV-oYFcNJH-ZSOTcCY79-M-Wa0NudrrfZR_5spq98kSHjHMgeDAsgvSObOU6hXkgJVldfqClbei5PGmP2LjLzAY848W3Q48tdmSLw1DEEBMG0BVj1yuOfz_4wdFqqOHumgc8MtSJlg4onOqkYEc6Yh9CkHT_eiajsXst1dWHmQ/s320/20230706_095623.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9MfOIhLpdIDRbeuXN622ojFj44Lwq5K2YdQtxZr0j63VdmbRIUKsodfZeTWylUmTFGqaue-Yw3xas8PavdbPK_UrZJYmst1JNoxw11dytJ-ZvbqzaZq_NK_wMHfEeTSx77RM4dtzhqfWAN4IKvgLhiJIwG7ikP3aBdMAbRyuwxXfDFhmtpJ0F7-NewDA/s1209/20230706_101130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9MfOIhLpdIDRbeuXN622ojFj44Lwq5K2YdQtxZr0j63VdmbRIUKsodfZeTWylUmTFGqaue-Yw3xas8PavdbPK_UrZJYmst1JNoxw11dytJ-ZvbqzaZq_NK_wMHfEeTSx77RM4dtzhqfWAN4IKvgLhiJIwG7ikP3aBdMAbRyuwxXfDFhmtpJ0F7-NewDA/s320/20230706_101130.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Attraversiamo villaggi dai nomi decisamente non spagnoli: Ich Ek, Suc-Tuc, Oxà, San Antonio Xkix, Tikinmul. Sono un curioso mix di degrado e sporcizia, in alcune zone, e strutture ben tenute, funzionali e abbastanza nuove, in altre. Le case sono spesso malridotte, capanne con tetto di foglie o lamiera, cumuli di mattoni accomodati in qualche modo tra fango e spazzatura. Però poi, magari, c'è una casetta dell'acqua appena costruita, un parco con tanto di giochi per bambini...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMeyVTgoKAuC5_WeA5-GtpsUfFlJ0QLPGqLVtkv-fnoxYSxq6Eetd6hNvOhLVfuMbQ8nci2-KRKcCDWVz3OJWD4isbtbmYfdKWL4LF1XY9-kiphzJpQP7Q9ButWZ45GoKlqawNo1X4W9Aq5KJsIr4seUw9g8RugOpB_W2sQJ1ckqyY3-ByXvE1s_DWYpQ/s1209/20230706_101155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMeyVTgoKAuC5_WeA5-GtpsUfFlJ0QLPGqLVtkv-fnoxYSxq6Eetd6hNvOhLVfuMbQ8nci2-KRKcCDWVz3OJWD4isbtbmYfdKWL4LF1XY9-kiphzJpQP7Q9ButWZ45GoKlqawNo1X4W9Aq5KJsIr4seUw9g8RugOpB_W2sQJ1ckqyY3-ByXvE1s_DWYpQ/s320/20230706_101155.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsVWchR43vVOSDfWlJ_Fgw269BLtvgAvTFMNhVfruVFKSV9JFeNthJpd5Y0fhvQ6c6vXaXTGcEOo8ioXDLFxRaxMKJC9r2j3ouZRKkiCWHgDWMnDHhH86qLHLTHyzBQUNbW3Mmjaefwz3VUeGVLoGAH1BG2YuvfBp5M9iHXhcd9Y5be3WCa428CDBFKQ/s1209/20230706_101301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsVWchR43vVOSDfWlJ_Fgw269BLtvgAvTFMNhVfruVFKSV9JFeNthJpd5Y0fhvQ6c6vXaXTGcEOo8ioXDLFxRaxMKJC9r2j3ouZRKkiCWHgDWMnDHhH86qLHLTHyzBQUNbW3Mmjaefwz3VUeGVLoGAH1BG2YuvfBp5M9iHXhcd9Y5be3WCa428CDBFKQ/s320/20230706_101301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIw6KSPxVQMnQaCNFsRlyiq0y8-UZaadu6m5Y1FiZZCKDrHnvxIlccHmajwyjs4duBFoHAi77weVlTMG-L49Fr7Z8ApkFuqsTD4-Ycc0nWJtjHX5-NkrczaKSdJ0M5vxWsncsmtjX7130Zx9xVb5cRgxpRw-6Lkq63uz9gasKqeIEBFG3r0uZkzraKCqY/s1209/20230706_102926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIw6KSPxVQMnQaCNFsRlyiq0y8-UZaadu6m5Y1FiZZCKDrHnvxIlccHmajwyjs4duBFoHAi77weVlTMG-L49Fr7Z8ApkFuqsTD4-Ycc0nWJtjHX5-NkrczaKSdJ0M5vxWsncsmtjX7130Zx9xVb5cRgxpRw-6Lkq63uz9gasKqeIEBFG3r0uZkzraKCqY/s320/20230706_102926.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigj7aDydidbe_zXXZ7XUSO3sOA-h1LhhDMU4G2GQz2E__M19XAMOEBaxK2mpeBdvoKbejEseHDfPdTCJQzeKTZ7xBK6kEcwa_QgXuYnOVy24CuvYBXAt4umgl8nv5TASx3JCtaVh0LZqhhl27DL_5Wa5QYhRaQK5OMox4V7f8d6dbDYVJ1m3bjJjgZsdg/s1209/20230706_102930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigj7aDydidbe_zXXZ7XUSO3sOA-h1LhhDMU4G2GQz2E__M19XAMOEBaxK2mpeBdvoKbejEseHDfPdTCJQzeKTZ7xBK6kEcwa_QgXuYnOVy24CuvYBXAt4umgl8nv5TASx3JCtaVh0LZqhhl27DL_5Wa5QYhRaQK5OMox4V7f8d6dbDYVJ1m3bjJjgZsdg/s320/20230706_102930.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I primi 40km scivolano veloci sotto alle ruote, ma poi arriva il caldo, ed oggi è davvero devastante. I movimenti rallentano, ogni sforzo si fa sovrumano. Continuiamo a svuotare le borracce e a fermarci per riempirle con qualcosa di fresco. Ci bagnano la testa e l'acqua evapora in un istante... Insomma, proseguire diventa difficile. Per fortuna il vento è dalla nostra parte e la strada corre prevalentemente in piano, salvo qualche collinetta sparsa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNYnq1QhPIlB42tlOQ5FqPUWRG9wBsHNFzm6RUjTCTyOb8Tp0mYKRnU6gPQ-MOzryvsODRky-mxf92VGvzTlUJuQCr3ZrCUbUrk4YVuzVnrZdcCNJ9DnSfg6LimwIbGXJIOFyKrx4Fpmh5f6hyA8O6uUiEdA5TFSPUca68aIPnkv8TKP_twQ1Yk_xQkE/s1209/20230706_102945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNYnq1QhPIlB42tlOQ5FqPUWRG9wBsHNFzm6RUjTCTyOb8Tp0mYKRnU6gPQ-MOzryvsODRky-mxf92VGvzTlUJuQCr3ZrCUbUrk4YVuzVnrZdcCNJ9DnSfg6LimwIbGXJIOFyKrx4Fpmh5f6hyA8O6uUiEdA5TFSPUca68aIPnkv8TKP_twQ1Yk_xQkE/s320/20230706_102945.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMH5rNeFfKB7qgVCDrkAU7trlXt2aIIxYmOLSN-oucx08garjakXDlJ-E-EbSOHscupEGN9DFfCXI2pIUKMqgq98dKY1Zc7xmQnegP6mlbWk0Og8Z2EsqcMw3at5nj5A6Aexvpbj33POjUrVTZeUzPEEVITYGr05hmxg9GUzhilDlHWFok_8ziTxLNoNA/s1209/20230706_103000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMH5rNeFfKB7qgVCDrkAU7trlXt2aIIxYmOLSN-oucx08garjakXDlJ-E-EbSOHscupEGN9DFfCXI2pIUKMqgq98dKY1Zc7xmQnegP6mlbWk0Og8Z2EsqcMw3at5nj5A6Aexvpbj33POjUrVTZeUzPEEVITYGr05hmxg9GUzhilDlHWFok_8ziTxLNoNA/s320/20230706_103000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Da oggi, oltretutto, stiamo sperimentando queste polverine magiche per rendere meno vomitevole l'acqua calda come brodo che ci troviamo a bere. Non sono male, per quanto abbiano tutta l'aria di fare abbastanza male.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LbYsp4KVAKP8jWWZnVJ9csh76BaJ1HdqDMpXa-FnKpJcNBgcmwFuQ8jZVew4lbl4uleiEnfe8eJG_T3mVIIPO7YHYO_uMWcWCyVD22vkW8efUUNZjsmgCykQGpe9-3OyTGQOylHawIYv_eaVyX-bdjwioW1ulxbeZkX0dNAEu1KCPs0paaXb7UiFM3M/s1209/20230706_111028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LbYsp4KVAKP8jWWZnVJ9csh76BaJ1HdqDMpXa-FnKpJcNBgcmwFuQ8jZVew4lbl4uleiEnfe8eJG_T3mVIIPO7YHYO_uMWcWCyVD22vkW8efUUNZjsmgCykQGpe9-3OyTGQOylHawIYv_eaVyX-bdjwioW1ulxbeZkX0dNAEu1KCPs0paaXb7UiFM3M/s320/20230706_111028.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFz6T8GUPv6Y5v_gwC_IwhMcZUsEpwyNnvMiiFl-i-vCSzhPBoei0nQLEU5M3P0PumkdD86OwY6gCRdXPNcuSnBGy3vupF11US7y6D1JPUvVrwNqN1fMbPtpTaPk0dEV3tQ5NbvrA-i7n4IikeEAjPYa2s8kQXJBrpaiIfZwsKtYqHSRBtzCI7ZHEgc4/s1209/20230706_111650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFz6T8GUPv6Y5v_gwC_IwhMcZUsEpwyNnvMiiFl-i-vCSzhPBoei0nQLEU5M3P0PumkdD86OwY6gCRdXPNcuSnBGy3vupF11US7y6D1JPUvVrwNqN1fMbPtpTaPk0dEV3tQ5NbvrA-i7n4IikeEAjPYa2s8kQXJBrpaiIfZwsKtYqHSRBtzCI7ZHEgc4/s320/20230706_111650.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chihuahua!</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Passiamo altri pueblos, sempre più piano, sempre più sciolti dal caldo. Uno si chiama "La divina providencia" e, per quanto paia ironico, non lo è affatto.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi167xjMpbhBPETaZzN_6fF4FNlVXNFMozAjctcGi7d497Wfg2OIHeE7kvpLntf5TwW6yQnoHl4iThpvpDqJjqa_YdF_HAYeejho7NKvOyKweyijxAxCPfGymZvk3XpyFubKCrhRCUYbekkcNQQktsreMy3epMIeuzzoHuv92pPONESAjNkl_q66ANsHmQ/s1209/20230706_115206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi167xjMpbhBPETaZzN_6fF4FNlVXNFMozAjctcGi7d497Wfg2OIHeE7kvpLntf5TwW6yQnoHl4iThpvpDqJjqa_YdF_HAYeejho7NKvOyKweyijxAxCPfGymZvk3XpyFubKCrhRCUYbekkcNQQktsreMy3epMIeuzzoHuv92pPONESAjNkl_q66ANsHmQ/s320/20230706_115206.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1ghHE0ZWdUf6KcUpUHWZd4Wxeh9xFcJQUFaVXLqyE28tKNU2S6T4Nfv9SDwlsGitOiMz9Br6zS95rFHWP5ZixEQ1UbWn8EVSMxxvQJhHP3wz3QJ7mFTTpsQRbF3neevYpK-gYbk6Z6HrW8qFnHQwCzeKrJYcNxF-2JyX4RG2nEoT06JJZPC7t_wHFoQ/s1209/20230706_115211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1ghHE0ZWdUf6KcUpUHWZd4Wxeh9xFcJQUFaVXLqyE28tKNU2S6T4Nfv9SDwlsGitOiMz9Br6zS95rFHWP5ZixEQ1UbWn8EVSMxxvQJhHP3wz3QJ7mFTTpsQRbF3neevYpK-gYbk6Z6HrW8qFnHQwCzeKrJYcNxF-2JyX4RG2nEoT06JJZPC7t_wHFoQ/s320/20230706_115211.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzffVgwAe1NTzyi2BgykvVxmogHRADKCz4SH8U8lsOf2BA6-yIeVHr0t45EetmJx633aL5S_mvfAiWVXdKBXvnRlRaXYkrxrj8pnfr5R3GFcpNRQAQNdIXc22vTFjxam9eCjuTPUgzQl1fSQkro-nzYpG7IE7cnij0kajNDeXC1W7FRN8_GC33lAc9ge4/s1209/20230706_125638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzffVgwAe1NTzyi2BgykvVxmogHRADKCz4SH8U8lsOf2BA6-yIeVHr0t45EetmJx633aL5S_mvfAiWVXdKBXvnRlRaXYkrxrj8pnfr5R3GFcpNRQAQNdIXc22vTFjxam9eCjuTPUgzQl1fSQkro-nzYpG7IE7cnij0kajNDeXC1W7FRN8_GC33lAc9ge4/s320/20230706_125638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB7JmeHLBDDqPPlvFADeFGxWHYbVq3B6dstwDNP2c978a_Y-6BlTmtVuTpHYpY3uxgh_ZNem-j8-Gklcnpvg-wgt0gg9ic9wXnm309yDzD1oogE8Ls8052pVfMi2FBmImY6TafLrp3MvJG2JcnwQBdYvGm8tlRkJmoFMDeSemXE5-uE-iVzpRdgvZ0okE/s1209/20230706_125745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB7JmeHLBDDqPPlvFADeFGxWHYbVq3B6dstwDNP2c978a_Y-6BlTmtVuTpHYpY3uxgh_ZNem-j8-Gklcnpvg-wgt0gg9ic9wXnm309yDzD1oogE8Ls8052pVfMi2FBmImY6TafLrp3MvJG2JcnwQBdYvGm8tlRkJmoFMDeSemXE5-uE-iVzpRdgvZ0okE/s320/20230706_125745.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mucche magre alla cui ombra trovano frescura le garzette</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5BI1wRP5zLCA0Fddi2HEwdfnSGcmkOgUg7G4WcRh-FnjLQRocEuooi71aC93BjVFiwKdYVeht85DPY4jpwT2IvGgsiAcB9V_0NR2ggU_4WQudYbYw-qEcgsWWE-NOxpNRv6fUOJTr5JjddHpFgps0AkE6g_E1iTh_fihUBQC1-D8FnTUnW1B765L--Q/s1209/20230706_131541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-5BI1wRP5zLCA0Fddi2HEwdfnSGcmkOgUg7G4WcRh-FnjLQRocEuooi71aC93BjVFiwKdYVeht85DPY4jpwT2IvGgsiAcB9V_0NR2ggU_4WQudYbYw-qEcgsWWE-NOxpNRv6fUOJTr5JjddHpFgps0AkE6g_E1iTh_fihUBQC1-D8FnTUnW1B765L--Q/s320/20230706_131541.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>L'altra cittadina, l'ultima prima di Campeche, è Castamay (lascyvasempre), nata dalle terre e dai lavoratori di una grande hacienda che sorgeva qui. Tutti ci fissano e ci salutano con "Hey mister! Ok ok, mister!" e immagino che se abbiamo la faccia da gringos non c'è cartello che tenga. Mannaggia. Tuttavia non percepisco vibrazioni negative, anzi. Solo grande curiosità e, al massimo, qualche sincera risata mista a stupore, e tanti sorrisoni (spesso sdentati), tutti ricambiati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn0xSITrZ6-vT_LUlEaVlsTKO6EgNfdD5rHvr4urt6MSKU6ijOFr8NPKLXjnhuNLSAm2RmBgp6s0WY7xv9xIiDPH4RZyGu4epVGhxD75lkJLCadMgQwHF0YOnmmxOGCMy2SE-OdFUev3kAfIceRtXHl56QMhf17hl5iFedxLLxlEmLSO2I3dzGIvgVCv8/s979/20230706_133055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn0xSITrZ6-vT_LUlEaVlsTKO6EgNfdD5rHvr4urt6MSKU6ijOFr8NPKLXjnhuNLSAm2RmBgp6s0WY7xv9xIiDPH4RZyGu4epVGhxD75lkJLCadMgQwHF0YOnmmxOGCMy2SE-OdFUev3kAfIceRtXHl56QMhf17hl5iFedxLLxlEmLSO2I3dzGIvgVCv8/s320/20230706_133055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8TfSk3iDPizvU6BmSwbCxLulqfAe4L1dlf8_SbGQieQ-PFR8OP_yv4IWWwSbTIMY5AJP6A873mehbk6cW3gW8XtseWezN1pPX1fadK3RKN0Q-NyyUR-Lj6LLn_mIGnj4rB3TiDB-je0JJTAJXlsVKo_t_bXVNP4Q3e-G1G_4yqH9hcGoSXP-YKHZDuY/s1209/20230706_133104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8TfSk3iDPizvU6BmSwbCxLulqfAe4L1dlf8_SbGQieQ-PFR8OP_yv4IWWwSbTIMY5AJP6A873mehbk6cW3gW8XtseWezN1pPX1fadK3RKN0Q-NyyUR-Lj6LLn_mIGnj4rB3TiDB-je0JJTAJXlsVKo_t_bXVNP4Q3e-G1G_4yqH9hcGoSXP-YKHZDuY/s320/20230706_133104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Cotti e derelitti entriamo finalmente in Campeche, dove dobbiamo affrontare il traffico cittadino e i primi tratti di strada completamente esplosi, pieni di buche, di tombini aperti, di dossi, di asfalto scrostato a pezzettoni. Ma ormai ci siamo. Il nostro ospite, con cui ho chattato ieri sera, ci sta aspettando. Siamo a casa sua, in una stanza privata, con un cucinino in comune, in centro, sopra al mercato, appena al di fuori delle mura.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNCvYUJo_J3q0JPC8mkWuxhnBhaVuoyw1gEPEdEJgXuDgQQ2OyK-dry4_zV2HonqRAEn-1fx43AMkA3YeYUa8DplGlUbt1dQz7wE2rSl5o09uWt_r5sLf88BYaaa4TUefWE6rdGsYd_FfTSeMpd8S9Yjn9aUzlMoREat8ddfxBgGzsC3WzTxNIMqSsYWk/s979/20230706_145010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNCvYUJo_J3q0JPC8mkWuxhnBhaVuoyw1gEPEdEJgXuDgQQ2OyK-dry4_zV2HonqRAEn-1fx43AMkA3YeYUa8DplGlUbt1dQz7wE2rSl5o09uWt_r5sLf88BYaaa4TUefWE6rdGsYd_FfTSeMpd8S9Yjn9aUzlMoREat8ddfxBgGzsC3WzTxNIMqSsYWk/s320/20230706_145010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjITKt5_AKoOqXtodA6KtTdFfX0Qowd_TEL5adzLct3xVc6gMFjdznx4TFtzscL0QIczhIWs-sLiXQ6qiwuq77bAHXmc1JJMavTqGEGA4ZFfW6GaXrqXOEqxP2DgI4bSU-KRydYZMiMk_rcEFPUwjvfLQmWkIXhciZ2wX4W6-KHIa1FDiG_dtg3aeBYZTU/s1209/20230706_145335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjITKt5_AKoOqXtodA6KtTdFfX0Qowd_TEL5adzLct3xVc6gMFjdznx4TFtzscL0QIczhIWs-sLiXQ6qiwuq77bAHXmc1JJMavTqGEGA4ZFfW6GaXrqXOEqxP2DgI4bSU-KRydYZMiMk_rcEFPUwjvfLQmWkIXhciZ2wX4W6-KHIa1FDiG_dtg3aeBYZTU/s320/20230706_145335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5VEhhlGD5ZplDQS-edaYxQ5dXmRhO4QFYYz4gXwi8bRuI-m-dnuygogZv4N9axgP5Y1lontCs8kQC0i3fk3llnNXQCBUoiyOl-8Ym8sFzlHP6VON9hoKt1avKYTwiS3K7EWdnpWw60aPSEVNNNLpa5tzVXErrGXojcBMSzQOunDCeKXkkoVjnVsV1dzY/s1209/20230706_172124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5VEhhlGD5ZplDQS-edaYxQ5dXmRhO4QFYYz4gXwi8bRuI-m-dnuygogZv4N9axgP5Y1lontCs8kQC0i3fk3llnNXQCBUoiyOl-8Ym8sFzlHP6VON9hoKt1avKYTwiS3K7EWdnpWw60aPSEVNNNLpa5tzVXErrGXojcBMSzQOunDCeKXkkoVjnVsV1dzY/s320/20230706_172124.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci riposiamo e lasciamo spiovere, mentre Gigi impazzisce causa Inps, banca e altri infernali labirinti. Poi, finalmente, riusciamo a uscire per una prima passeggiata in questa città coloniale fortificata. Domani visiteremo per bene il centro storico (patrimonio UNESCO) con le sue ville e i suoi palazzi color pastello. Per ora ci diamo una misura dell'ampiezza del mercato, che, essendo tardo pomeriggio sta chiudendo, e delle mura difensive con i loro baluardi, costruiti per difendere questo ricco porto commerciale dalle incursioni di pirati e soprattutto corsari (che non solo derubavano, ma massacravano e incendiavano).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67NN5-M9d1VKyV-7DGuj6mcZ_tRNJNpHgHga4Pzzc1hB1QmyeOkjTwu9nDuKSLorKNiy239UqTzUdZYJbWlYCVrqA6gqgma1NgqATDKU6_iqTkF4gJy6WVNk_6gby6CFDnhSS4UUGIQkA5ZLTpF2H5Nc3UPh5xFlIr2i-hnhKm60qaOpY592N4sQy-2M/s1209/20230706_180459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67NN5-M9d1VKyV-7DGuj6mcZ_tRNJNpHgHga4Pzzc1hB1QmyeOkjTwu9nDuKSLorKNiy239UqTzUdZYJbWlYCVrqA6gqgma1NgqATDKU6_iqTkF4gJy6WVNk_6gby6CFDnhSS4UUGIQkA5ZLTpF2H5Nc3UPh5xFlIr2i-hnhKm60qaOpY592N4sQy-2M/s320/20230706_180459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOZ6mpmfwxli_b1b-a6TckeRsUK8Z-WjCE9wafZaLlTy7mUmj9Us9AFFVLWUy2kcIDHauDquEwIYGIayEfwNWt2uVXTvlPrnNOZtxYpm2YVyv8BJ9Yup5roQej2vGwsYlouUxOD9Ca4HYNdldSNj2BHF6yTc5x0hqXMHKyhFnTNJpchKedSxHFCaFdQIU/s1209/20230706_180928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOZ6mpmfwxli_b1b-a6TckeRsUK8Z-WjCE9wafZaLlTy7mUmj9Us9AFFVLWUy2kcIDHauDquEwIYGIayEfwNWt2uVXTvlPrnNOZtxYpm2YVyv8BJ9Yup5roQej2vGwsYlouUxOD9Ca4HYNdldSNj2BHF6yTc5x0hqXMHKyhFnTNJpchKedSxHFCaFdQIU/s320/20230706_180928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5sDxmNMrR_9dAV9NL6gpt1oZmvqGa_6Yr-WKHIOsIlnwTTu4NrkPRTvxZyCILINOiGgeOnUPKR6DmOSYHCeR_YReacDU_jMNN4k5m6lLGEEhKQicXF_QhItXzhNjmmEX32OZFoQ7DWpfU4eq4CN7bByzWaOuMMCaIMmNcCu9az_2TOQEW0d9U_gZpi8Q/s1209/20230706_180934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5sDxmNMrR_9dAV9NL6gpt1oZmvqGa_6Yr-WKHIOsIlnwTTu4NrkPRTvxZyCILINOiGgeOnUPKR6DmOSYHCeR_YReacDU_jMNN4k5m6lLGEEhKQicXF_QhItXzhNjmmEX32OZFoQ7DWpfU4eq4CN7bByzWaOuMMCaIMmNcCu9az_2TOQEW0d9U_gZpi8Q/s320/20230706_180934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGy586cHugnrp9cYOSJxNIjF3CV2U-FsX6j_51IrDSKBzl_3w_juSVox7q6TfAUE8xGKN9seQ295tgLZeotVZCi6kqz0CGlM89T0pqRKISvG9d5yfSNPq45Z0moPtfhKBgozs830CGoZEN-SeKl7swJg6f46MMP643KWJT--JSTK5JSiv00x93wH7V-9g/s979/20230706_181019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGy586cHugnrp9cYOSJxNIjF3CV2U-FsX6j_51IrDSKBzl_3w_juSVox7q6TfAUE8xGKN9seQ295tgLZeotVZCi6kqz0CGlM89T0pqRKISvG9d5yfSNPq45Z0moPtfhKBgozs830CGoZEN-SeKl7swJg6f46MMP643KWJT--JSTK5JSiv00x93wH7V-9g/s320/20230706_181019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Percorriamo i viali e notiamo subito un'atmosfera piacevolissima, vacanziera. Sarà che siamo tornati sul mare, sarà che ci sono tanti negozi ma non turistici, e la gente del luogo passeggia tranquilla tra musica e strade addobbate con festoni, baracchini dei gelati e delle marqusitas... Sarà la luce del tramonto che rende tutto più dolce e morbido, fatto è che ci sentiamo subito immersi in un piacevole torpore dei sensi. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEttTVsOQexInVUGIsvi9G-NwQDpL89jVonNZ7IE0IDDK-0icDHyrx8tkjhJ6kFJvdDPrZqICYAaj1_SvRKI-wRX5ta4UJywkKzxcv_iTEMFhf1RS4QfaLHWwm4pNM7C13WunaSyyL-qo4gqhNvYC0XDDUk45tSMnFpZ-YQYEWyKFtmS_x6XRHukuKNpY/s1209/20230706_182038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEttTVsOQexInVUGIsvi9G-NwQDpL89jVonNZ7IE0IDDK-0icDHyrx8tkjhJ6kFJvdDPrZqICYAaj1_SvRKI-wRX5ta4UJywkKzxcv_iTEMFhf1RS4QfaLHWwm4pNM7C13WunaSyyL-qo4gqhNvYC0XDDUk45tSMnFpZ-YQYEWyKFtmS_x6XRHukuKNpY/s320/20230706_182038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8jTbbBS9nQ4vLf7gkbciomRO2PUrI_6GrCIJiBBYKpEKUYgRBbhebpARTpLxVhKCRiUnuKNmCZxGi_SwdK-DPZrYLeTaDF7mJQrXZsUKEtff1DRrgu7XJEQT6WwNxMDcsgYgBS5YEQ7qVcol-fEMrdzNEiVGpMvBRQNdUp02t-eapnJjQIaKkT-nPoJE/s1209/20230706_182047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8jTbbBS9nQ4vLf7gkbciomRO2PUrI_6GrCIJiBBYKpEKUYgRBbhebpARTpLxVhKCRiUnuKNmCZxGi_SwdK-DPZrYLeTaDF7mJQrXZsUKEtff1DRrgu7XJEQT6WwNxMDcsgYgBS5YEQ7qVcol-fEMrdzNEiVGpMvBRQNdUp02t-eapnJjQIaKkT-nPoJE/s320/20230706_182047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidV12GLoguk3RY_pNi4FKiXIaKK852Sx-OXfqSBPgu1zAZuIqI8xXoM0-Q3FY0458PVZmDjERVbqMHNd3UnTNCPB7ND0vxsH883jzVjB0l5tyLpUNRTzvs0rQcIITC4IE5WWa1U5IF9drFrSfvI5W6I5fCTfq7s0-sEQvro6-eaw4PDMWYvfsZpV4gVJg/s1209/20230706_182125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidV12GLoguk3RY_pNi4FKiXIaKK852Sx-OXfqSBPgu1zAZuIqI8xXoM0-Q3FY0458PVZmDjERVbqMHNd3UnTNCPB7ND0vxsH883jzVjB0l5tyLpUNRTzvs0rQcIITC4IE5WWa1U5IF9drFrSfvI5W6I5fCTfq7s0-sEQvro6-eaw4PDMWYvfsZpV4gVJg/s320/20230706_182125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2gmH6d6HwWg65yzZzHaD7C0Evwzcw3nAPQ_-Qtpjuz-Gsog3t_LEHsQjTqXJDigC1d73ToCjKQg9y1evyrnFbuIn1f5DIq5UoPSkXNJlFTU_80_RFN8zHQk9scIMBiKiO9kFAjG-hTp1pb1r44fsKP6Gd5CvXfppHDPou87drqnQKQMtmxoTgZrAKSM/s1209/20230706_182205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2gmH6d6HwWg65yzZzHaD7C0Evwzcw3nAPQ_-Qtpjuz-Gsog3t_LEHsQjTqXJDigC1d73ToCjKQg9y1evyrnFbuIn1f5DIq5UoPSkXNJlFTU_80_RFN8zHQk9scIMBiKiO9kFAjG-hTp1pb1r44fsKP6Gd5CvXfppHDPou87drqnQKQMtmxoTgZrAKSM/s320/20230706_182205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4D_SXQIRyjzI3FcQ2qDYgFCFbVbpTF4ASctZqbo8jVCgNJoL5eqmupWL6eK0aJFN5LsOo_NsQI6JTZ_D7qk3qG3Akew5j_SfQhwtqoGdJw5-gaarjj850m-_P29r50d2WYNq_YXqFkZq5JHTGQVgo9ZZOpHpi0oZMbotqGZEIXKWdkCpBsQgwbumM2s/s1209/20230706_182242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg4D_SXQIRyjzI3FcQ2qDYgFCFbVbpTF4ASctZqbo8jVCgNJoL5eqmupWL6eK0aJFN5LsOo_NsQI6JTZ_D7qk3qG3Akew5j_SfQhwtqoGdJw5-gaarjj850m-_P29r50d2WYNq_YXqFkZq5JHTGQVgo9ZZOpHpi0oZMbotqGZEIXKWdkCpBsQgwbumM2s/s320/20230706_182242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfDce0-EbdT3DRrPavPYHR5SlSqnHM1IBTMYFaSF43swjp73QNWuC1bKqLMdHqmmVMF6rzPJvDJ3VB1QTQM_ZIHXtX548LLwCdqOJNkR0J2zEoL786grqrtLIgZ3BtmBnHGyEMPMpOBiEt573837iT-TUHjF56ZG0MbcZnZTV9xNMUQ7eu74ruARLCQg/s1209/20230706_182948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqfDce0-EbdT3DRrPavPYHR5SlSqnHM1IBTMYFaSF43swjp73QNWuC1bKqLMdHqmmVMF6rzPJvDJ3VB1QTQM_ZIHXtX548LLwCdqOJNkR0J2zEoL786grqrtLIgZ3BtmBnHGyEMPMpOBiEt573837iT-TUHjF56ZG0MbcZnZTV9xNMUQ7eu74ruARLCQg/s320/20230706_182948.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo il malecon, il lungomare, al momento perfetto, nella golden hour più grandiosa degli ultimi tempi. Il temporale è appena passato, e ora sta rovesciando colonne d'acqua al largo, in mare. Dentro alle colonne corrono fulmini lunghissimi. Ma il sole non è coperto, ed è libero di sciogliere tutta la sua luce di miele e caramello in cielo e sulla superficie calmissima dell'oceano. Svetta su tutto la colonna in cima alla quale si trova il cosiddetto "angelo maya" (la scultura si chiama "Incontro tra due mondi"). Molti sono qui a godersi lo spettacolo, e pochissimi son stranieri. C'è una gran pace, ed una brezza fresca invita a restare. Non decliniamo.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6N-z5cZ_JFf48Jb0WXIZf_3hkH7W9v7oOFi4d4prEB6w7v7yr21TDGqXm664YP-UeUM9TXS7De_luZhn4PifphLAa1NhaUTI7RuQWkg2gG3RLSi8hkEDUpgUMkixVixNT0l14gxYFraz9zkJ531QrGZFovM3LCTnP23u37jPB-EdLIqIVL_IxIX1ubCk/s1209/20230706_183206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6N-z5cZ_JFf48Jb0WXIZf_3hkH7W9v7oOFi4d4prEB6w7v7yr21TDGqXm664YP-UeUM9TXS7De_luZhn4PifphLAa1NhaUTI7RuQWkg2gG3RLSi8hkEDUpgUMkixVixNT0l14gxYFraz9zkJ531QrGZFovM3LCTnP23u37jPB-EdLIqIVL_IxIX1ubCk/s320/20230706_183206.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsgBgVH0nLxut4YOTEEdDAVK9z6paZz5B_lVrNWM5ZsOACZC2X6loRTvwIL3jZhg9jQiK-Ql1uewzvzeEMdpAw37VP8qkgJ5HgWdB3Lnci6-fqatTVsMpQUnusc-Mv7XcKH1n7bW6UZU9_58qFnFbWhEcEqr_Prk54ajKx1ohoRNVelcYsGF-eaX4D8E/s1209/20230706_183301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsgBgVH0nLxut4YOTEEdDAVK9z6paZz5B_lVrNWM5ZsOACZC2X6loRTvwIL3jZhg9jQiK-Ql1uewzvzeEMdpAw37VP8qkgJ5HgWdB3Lnci6-fqatTVsMpQUnusc-Mv7XcKH1n7bW6UZU9_58qFnFbWhEcEqr_Prk54ajKx1ohoRNVelcYsGF-eaX4D8E/s320/20230706_183301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8pDXrUQSpvS5CLIPeuNCxMDwotfjQ-aEfKsuFdH1qTNn2LjZvUn3TXMXtCflkK8rjES-nk-JFP8NyVwIziEeJ0tjeMLgS79KaCxCp9JhuBTbPDBKV6nTZKKpewC9onN9hQXlfCbNmn0N_z8_8-3ry2la-VR9ylYawriqYUI_BuoOkJwpVDkwq205q3k/s979/20230706_183420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiuk5mwi6cwFOcJyCbWbhnjBIHa3mPFVRU-Zmia-h188vqVsdbDZNvR7tUzGlQf9fuKOeoTGCSfWfycgKf5U8w3GY5xDOxLfY1uUmR9F9bq8JpChbfPctC-sQoTwuXixsKwuvsqIki-ihVLaC6eNOzJfJi50cYLydLC7N0PS2lo4y1NvnX9UZX4iYYXs/s1209/20230706_184425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiuk5mwi6cwFOcJyCbWbhnjBIHa3mPFVRU-Zmia-h188vqVsdbDZNvR7tUzGlQf9fuKOeoTGCSfWfycgKf5U8w3GY5xDOxLfY1uUmR9F9bq8JpChbfPctC-sQoTwuXixsKwuvsqIki-ihVLaC6eNOzJfJi50cYLydLC7N0PS2lo4y1NvnX9UZX4iYYXs/s320/20230706_184425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFhnOwu54WneF6RmJcJv0RSTYbkiE8RbTFoy5yXTW4Y7XG2TQ4ZAlJfz7CP_vxfpfi0sk1fWqLz7sO6jerNrY3E27SzPaQtRwkC0KU36HXnhCsivplHLF5_TYU01UmzowGeki3JnswUgDd05RxulgqHvs0hl4cIkRaQTJt7Bio5_zEGK2SEAzj3wjdFR8/s1209/20230706_184853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFhnOwu54WneF6RmJcJv0RSTYbkiE8RbTFoy5yXTW4Y7XG2TQ4ZAlJfz7CP_vxfpfi0sk1fWqLz7sO6jerNrY3E27SzPaQtRwkC0KU36HXnhCsivplHLF5_TYU01UmzowGeki3JnswUgDd05RxulgqHvs0hl4cIkRaQTJt7Bio5_zEGK2SEAzj3wjdFR8/s320/20230706_184853.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Aspettiamo che il sole scompaia completamente di là dall'orizzonte, e solo a quel punto lasciamo, un po' a malincuore, il lungomare, per tornare verso il centro storico. Ci imbattiamo in aree pubbliche e strutture nuove e belle, cosa che segna in modo netto la differenza tra città e villaggi. Avevo già notato questa cosa in Perù. Nascere, vivere in una città come questa significa nascere e vivere in un altro mondo rispetto ai pueblos, dove a malapena ci sono luce e acqua corrente (e non sempre). </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJsc6JhMZDwi7EeyW0ggaUrR4pi_LygCW1Nvcth0APuzQwOHzJei0ppyVVe6k8oHDhlxq9yGfd2Yf08y6JCGsc0wW0tPGUALJIvgPgHemFLx8KWBUnJiZcTZsAg-5ITct_8df4EVjVq2LO1b-wSGhpqrcGw-z_3A2GyR-9Bz3Sfn_kg5uMG9AJD-_txI/s1209/20230706_185321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJsc6JhMZDwi7EeyW0ggaUrR4pi_LygCW1Nvcth0APuzQwOHzJei0ppyVVe6k8oHDhlxq9yGfd2Yf08y6JCGsc0wW0tPGUALJIvgPgHemFLx8KWBUnJiZcTZsAg-5ITct_8df4EVjVq2LO1b-wSGhpqrcGw-z_3A2GyR-9Bz3Sfn_kg5uMG9AJD-_txI/s320/20230706_185321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd0LpBLTdijjM_W772BBF54c6La32o85gCxzqZ6IECXP5_WC1Shu6R1SC-HqwxS2V4M_X7z0toACH0VmfdiIyq7nbjk7H4TGWniLPQYUsoFlGbFMmBgZmMLIsSM4Z1vV13H6lGhXf67ntvdd3-SdDwEIhuMI3aUcYW9Fo14NJY0890eejrH9ehU69pIQ/s1209/20230706_185750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd0LpBLTdijjM_W772BBF54c6La32o85gCxzqZ6IECXP5_WC1Shu6R1SC-HqwxS2V4M_X7z0toACH0VmfdiIyq7nbjk7H4TGWniLPQYUsoFlGbFMmBgZmMLIsSM4Z1vV13H6lGhXf67ntvdd3-SdDwEIhuMI3aUcYW9Fo14NJY0890eejrH9ehU69pIQ/s320/20230706_185750.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMIzckwUof-4Myk--BqjKypk7d0MXuYex9o8zprszKz03rBt6t_09GPlw0bS66Kp6JtD8A5FRgeNhjGdztmxn3CafwY8cx1DhmKrK17OrzkMOviWmSkOjFynmnV6kXbfZIv1SvjcPdl9uKjh5SWsynEJ4gBXshHucBm2qe0J8Bo5LGjLSFqjCobwy3qY/s1209/20230706_190009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMIzckwUof-4Myk--BqjKypk7d0MXuYex9o8zprszKz03rBt6t_09GPlw0bS66Kp6JtD8A5FRgeNhjGdztmxn3CafwY8cx1DhmKrK17OrzkMOviWmSkOjFynmnV6kXbfZIv1SvjcPdl9uKjh5SWsynEJ4gBXshHucBm2qe0J8Bo5LGjLSFqjCobwy3qY/s320/20230706_190009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il palazzo del governo dello stato di Campeche</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8h4fCFV18PiQ-wpRTmu9LOKY056NE3JtG21WOzy_Mf33puWjnxIEvro6oEHsuIo_-4pINq87Fig7jS7MDdCaEb3Ner_W0LNzzFCUsbp0Zq6nOmowxPM1SCYyXwYwbZRmx2FMvE09e6viKJ33nzaOkF5zyOKPfLlQQWEyIRWIBGcKgo7NyBh91aPzZGY/s1209/20230706_190200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8h4fCFV18PiQ-wpRTmu9LOKY056NE3JtG21WOzy_Mf33puWjnxIEvro6oEHsuIo_-4pINq87Fig7jS7MDdCaEb3Ner_W0LNzzFCUsbp0Zq6nOmowxPM1SCYyXwYwbZRmx2FMvE09e6viKJ33nzaOkF5zyOKPfLlQQWEyIRWIBGcKgo7NyBh91aPzZGY/s320/20230706_190200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglTJGxnnYicEgKcVhWUcVpslzltETnkuSiztQFonvOrIWxE1SZIHxtnTFFneh8FwIz2AbsqTiRY7Bx1HJeusqlJEnsSuykHnThJNBGqp0F8gCiUZzxOsMWTBQChNNPgJrm_9Q086GIrCvVytBOrfINUUW1BfE3wNKDIamuQQHpbAoZd9c4nMO0zZVOLEk/s1209/20230706_190304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglTJGxnnYicEgKcVhWUcVpslzltETnkuSiztQFonvOrIWxE1SZIHxtnTFFneh8FwIz2AbsqTiRY7Bx1HJeusqlJEnsSuykHnThJNBGqp0F8gCiUZzxOsMWTBQChNNPgJrm_9Q086GIrCvVytBOrfINUUW1BfE3wNKDIamuQQHpbAoZd9c4nMO0zZVOLEk/s320/20230706_190304.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsfilCmwSMP9coWnYwOiZazXukN75mKH_bCiSgVqfz_J7CwQjaWMq4C0gG_7GsyllapGZjbh3IheIqHL2_MGZp81QIFaEwSMIZnIefEqTZNHbJ0FC-Bk1pf2XiMyukSLmesh1NXE_IneNKkA9WCAPZ1pnt8hvefTs6KJ3Wtx5rTkgHt-6ALIRGBKOydT4/s1209/20230706_190224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsfilCmwSMP9coWnYwOiZazXukN75mKH_bCiSgVqfz_J7CwQjaWMq4C0gG_7GsyllapGZjbh3IheIqHL2_MGZp81QIFaEwSMIZnIefEqTZNHbJ0FC-Bk1pf2XiMyukSLmesh1NXE_IneNKkA9WCAPZ1pnt8hvefTs6KJ3Wtx5rTkgHt-6ALIRGBKOydT4/s320/20230706_190224.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsr_Nfnfzjfx_yvxzKgKc-P8a7i7lnG7tS4g64mIy3k9p8WLoc_iDwJfhW2FGXpZh_fnWRRYemFjDvJ0lfQX-pdEQ4zr-SZUiuhstWSdbDjxlwuKZrfaNOHxoYbtUtWQRUYAfyr4RpNksXE8ChZyMn6fXKsQgWEN7XzeREsJQNEfDfmj4w9HZMe17mOr8/s1209/20230706_190246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsr_Nfnfzjfx_yvxzKgKc-P8a7i7lnG7tS4g64mIy3k9p8WLoc_iDwJfhW2FGXpZh_fnWRRYemFjDvJ0lfQX-pdEQ4zr-SZUiuhstWSdbDjxlwuKZrfaNOHxoYbtUtWQRUYAfyr4RpNksXE8ChZyMn6fXKsQgWEN7XzeREsJQNEfDfmj4w9HZMe17mOr8/s320/20230706_190246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Riattraversiamo le mura e i bastioni e ci dirigiamo verso la piazza centrale, dove ci sono bancarelle di ogni genere, una vista incredibile sulle ville circostanti e sulla cattedrale e, soprattutto, una esibizione del centro diurno anziani, che stasera danza in abiti tradizionali. E vogliamo perdercelo? Non sia mai!</div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcwIz5KoyOqI2h_TYOXTQY1OY14ZjL8I1bRuMpE3op5QglL6StUdlMwnyqXEU6LbYxbmD2fbcC5ambtUTq9DeqOGrB2_svU8WuERHOVIQZQ8dNcGbxV9yqrApGAI5bjYhrtYN-rHUdVxE5JUOL6Rf0k-JYDFpMD9dH9LmBhdpIb8q7VibNsUnFXmDaAE/s1209/20230706_190343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcwIz5KoyOqI2h_TYOXTQY1OY14ZjL8I1bRuMpE3op5QglL6StUdlMwnyqXEU6LbYxbmD2fbcC5ambtUTq9DeqOGrB2_svU8WuERHOVIQZQ8dNcGbxV9yqrApGAI5bjYhrtYN-rHUdVxE5JUOL6Rf0k-JYDFpMD9dH9LmBhdpIb8q7VibNsUnFXmDaAE/s320/20230706_190343.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pYtnL5ku0lpo2CVViE_oNVN5Ni3F219TNRWSdCWtfnEv1s995POdG8ij1Mf59PiJTAiWSc4DmATZPEFHJOJDuAvY1bVUEaIqkDJzMQoGf5ytljbAwS1TYAsSi8hQpFPr3Un2s2iWjbeDr8LNd7VeBk3WbL_d31oZVLPuzo70yvCUYdw87aumAajHu0M/s1209/20230706_190357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pYtnL5ku0lpo2CVViE_oNVN5Ni3F219TNRWSdCWtfnEv1s995POdG8ij1Mf59PiJTAiWSc4DmATZPEFHJOJDuAvY1bVUEaIqkDJzMQoGf5ytljbAwS1TYAsSi8hQpFPr3Un2s2iWjbeDr8LNd7VeBk3WbL_d31oZVLPuzo70yvCUYdw87aumAajHu0M/s320/20230706_190357.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FMXJ-kzFAO99dDyP6v5iAj3x2LU_YJHIkyIIMxLF6nChSRAIsVOSFRlAzWs7BSmwHVT2BT0cSfIogqhWue48txGBVyalwJXczyzmwEQ79_RmnszySPb9FdeuppWyg1hENOd2lPUAByurSBwlhhK6IOYdOYu6wKx3gyvYdhgGSrpT6STso7cAvdjznXU/s1209/20230706_190539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FMXJ-kzFAO99dDyP6v5iAj3x2LU_YJHIkyIIMxLF6nChSRAIsVOSFRlAzWs7BSmwHVT2BT0cSfIogqhWue48txGBVyalwJXczyzmwEQ79_RmnszySPb9FdeuppWyg1hENOd2lPUAByurSBwlhhK6IOYdOYu6wKx3gyvYdhgGSrpT6STso7cAvdjznXU/s320/20230706_190539.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg--8sns17uizb-AyOCiQPjB8qrt-ga5QUq_jRpz16oELrj685bvhKUSAIN_HNeE0jGsrhpXTz7f3t5rje83jIgJk0xJINyb52xSVSjmPLpoT_XGITBy8i6f7bbugz10EXZE4LED56_2zI9mwTjr2D-CBi-d077F918bKTSWH8u4KdSiJfAHCjzdgdi-wU/s1209/20230706_190622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg--8sns17uizb-AyOCiQPjB8qrt-ga5QUq_jRpz16oELrj685bvhKUSAIN_HNeE0jGsrhpXTz7f3t5rje83jIgJk0xJINyb52xSVSjmPLpoT_XGITBy8i6f7bbugz10EXZE4LED56_2zI9mwTjr2D-CBi-d077F918bKTSWH8u4KdSiJfAHCjzdgdi-wU/s320/20230706_190622.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_c3MdVg-hR-osrBivXhM29f4HVPRhPI2aD12H3t80yGXQp_xQjnZE7Gk74IULpQnbTViz25VRI3d7vDlk6VmODDUoxi8hej-QJ_e3Bnt-7EPf6nJXLkFMk2o2aNnptWnvPfOtpE0iW5XsuSa0uXVqX4PUom-pgv0CkseWvAXzKdefvenSOZhN2ZW8R8U/s1209/20230706_190707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_c3MdVg-hR-osrBivXhM29f4HVPRhPI2aD12H3t80yGXQp_xQjnZE7Gk74IULpQnbTViz25VRI3d7vDlk6VmODDUoxi8hej-QJ_e3Bnt-7EPf6nJXLkFMk2o2aNnptWnvPfOtpE0iW5XsuSa0uXVqX4PUom-pgv0CkseWvAXzKdefvenSOZhN2ZW8R8U/s320/20230706_190707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11jKgo8DjJW7Hkc8_-AIoLkuVaQWAiLWiVEf0ofPCX92vuRYJV187DygkQmBGvT0wjvvh58oqVAngFQorxEvrAgx6pb2P5o5mKygt4aRQklWmvDY9vihM4HnCIn65mo-ZN3mwuCFH4njMZr-2AzDa1E3TxNTnSMmieFHLVRGhWanJ5Ucpi71Cz-uF2nk/s1209/20230706_190757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11jKgo8DjJW7Hkc8_-AIoLkuVaQWAiLWiVEf0ofPCX92vuRYJV187DygkQmBGvT0wjvvh58oqVAngFQorxEvrAgx6pb2P5o5mKygt4aRQklWmvDY9vihM4HnCIn65mo-ZN3mwuCFH4njMZr-2AzDa1E3TxNTnSMmieFHLVRGhWanJ5Ucpi71Cz-uF2nk/s320/20230706_190757.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD_Aao81VQyotXsCi_Q7UJN1lNM-gfXD0CeyG7lRMj4dp55JMfJ3j6jYSBkY-tBo1C7QfBuwGwDD0QrFLJ5QfbWihc3Tr1upHHC-4R6vmkpwgCcvBkxXBeIN6qoxU7XGluCYzfdVOIW-x6UNgQ1wWDwf91b5fqIZnSGZs9IAhBcDZ54OFFuE_VpgJ3opw/s1209/20230706_190852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD_Aao81VQyotXsCi_Q7UJN1lNM-gfXD0CeyG7lRMj4dp55JMfJ3j6jYSBkY-tBo1C7QfBuwGwDD0QrFLJ5QfbWihc3Tr1upHHC-4R6vmkpwgCcvBkxXBeIN6qoxU7XGluCYzfdVOIW-x6UNgQ1wWDwf91b5fqIZnSGZs9IAhBcDZ54OFFuE_VpgJ3opw/s320/20230706_190852.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIRQOUa5LaNFzCSlIzSgwkuML6hrkt-kuIyNsoagd0iLzqit1y_DvZ-HL47Xhjc0qRQtc68snjbL35kWgRQzNx1Z2dn9ZMPRH2o2dYf1X1UALZbPmi7n1fPlE0fYixyJQMEEqCiTLBhSiR4etOCkpaYR4hg1ENMgOfBr0soCzejY74BSCprWhrl7-WYo/s1209/20230706_191019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIRQOUa5LaNFzCSlIzSgwkuML6hrkt-kuIyNsoagd0iLzqit1y_DvZ-HL47Xhjc0qRQtc68snjbL35kWgRQzNx1Z2dn9ZMPRH2o2dYf1X1UALZbPmi7n1fPlE0fYixyJQMEEqCiTLBhSiR4etOCkpaYR4hg1ENMgOfBr0soCzejY74BSCprWhrl7-WYo/s320/20230706_191019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXjzY3uVxicdykiqTyF4Hsfh9BvC5o7ativYE74PecSpd4_PbG2ZS4scwAoDyDK2Lu01v2Ql_E-FPQwJ2MiyEyzm6A63WPjXl62NONEYToFct-RbHht-_BBEZzjVUqZ2nHhdHx2koj-cxB-WdzaT7sKydMqsfVAPSAeYdpr6BpFTpUdyuuSnzX2orDktM/s1209/20230706_191027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXjzY3uVxicdykiqTyF4Hsfh9BvC5o7ativYE74PecSpd4_PbG2ZS4scwAoDyDK2Lu01v2Ql_E-FPQwJ2MiyEyzm6A63WPjXl62NONEYToFct-RbHht-_BBEZzjVUqZ2nHhdHx2koj-cxB-WdzaT7sKydMqsfVAPSAeYdpr6BpFTpUdyuuSnzX2orDktM/s320/20230706_191027.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrc94UqOOeTlVEgC1dZgvPVjIi6qLiTcFMkXWkIifNF4HDxFiDtg3mgXmUJ6jGZPpUCFMyLe6GNdfk-Jlyp5QMhchtKWt7OjuwJT1WP6klbh0uOM2EWBFAXhie6GKD8QoWGhpuP3Goa0AQ6nd3CK_j09PwUKWsn4-6M3QgvPi7Yj-yhYt6AB71v4ORe1c/s1209/20230706_191234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrc94UqOOeTlVEgC1dZgvPVjIi6qLiTcFMkXWkIifNF4HDxFiDtg3mgXmUJ6jGZPpUCFMyLe6GNdfk-Jlyp5QMhchtKWt7OjuwJT1WP6klbh0uOM2EWBFAXhie6GKD8QoWGhpuP3Goa0AQ6nd3CK_j09PwUKWsn4-6M3QgvPi7Yj-yhYt6AB71v4ORe1c/s320/20230706_191234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finito lo spettacolo, facciamo una capatina nella cattedrale, che è aperta perchè c'è una funzione in corso. Ne parleremo domani, come di tutta la storia di questo luogo incredibile. Ci avviamo verso la casa di questi due giorni, e intanto facciamo spesa grande per la cena: stasera abbiamo una cucina degna di tale nome e possiamo sbizzarrirci! La zona del mercato, ormai chiusa, ha un che di mesto e a tratti spettrale, con i lavoratori distrutti, buttati sui banconi e sulle pile di cassette a riposare, e con alcuni ambigui personaggi che, con il buio, compaiono ai crocicchi. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51t1jPvmPJW6h2nhWVDIPUGNJLAvLD8ZCXnMaFqzQYXzahV8p-jyNBBdmhVVKGnp_PxruQP7IOWoca1ZZSDM359rM-bIG7J-onXQBGPQ4CEHelUvkJeSANQM-ESsJAVMWpet2F2SPfc8AxxyEHGWmUBPBZmug3GytAuN-6U8BdhEbMgGY1S86sdHRFgE/s1209/20230706_191358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51t1jPvmPJW6h2nhWVDIPUGNJLAvLD8ZCXnMaFqzQYXzahV8p-jyNBBdmhVVKGnp_PxruQP7IOWoca1ZZSDM359rM-bIG7J-onXQBGPQ4CEHelUvkJeSANQM-ESsJAVMWpet2F2SPfc8AxxyEHGWmUBPBZmug3GytAuN-6U8BdhEbMgGY1S86sdHRFgE/s320/20230706_191358.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibVFxhpnflBuLDCkO0hvkgwjjOBndvqQ8EAE6PVN3ES_sYxZVoOlUGLGGMJ1imwD9B2sKos_Ncihm5RR3l3rBpC4uYv98brcThNxnDH9Hhl3t5igfj07wL8oEeTV_F7dTsXxGCcZ6-1ph4K1wC52dr6XSY9n9EMtFmDeusoLXTKMXyNG40mCCkXgCssr0/s1209/20230706_191451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibVFxhpnflBuLDCkO0hvkgwjjOBndvqQ8EAE6PVN3ES_sYxZVoOlUGLGGMJ1imwD9B2sKos_Ncihm5RR3l3rBpC4uYv98brcThNxnDH9Hhl3t5igfj07wL8oEeTV_F7dTsXxGCcZ6-1ph4K1wC52dr6XSY9n9EMtFmDeusoLXTKMXyNG40mCCkXgCssr0/s320/20230706_191451.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGwgjHQsMbOfSBs-9uEPj8w4LkhovfW8NWStYkw68Gm-wXdkMNFUmyt6gb2WmVKroLQGRfX1ZcdZEY9WmapZ69L3Tj35oCAcI9vhhdiPCpDB6vIEzIyeoVVELZY1thTLYJAuYXhJmnGIUGRPQswo3tyf-R-XeE-yRfK7XT3lXJCTf7Y7nafWYgfYhH5fA/s1209/20230706_200658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGwgjHQsMbOfSBs-9uEPj8w4LkhovfW8NWStYkw68Gm-wXdkMNFUmyt6gb2WmVKroLQGRfX1ZcdZEY9WmapZ69L3Tj35oCAcI9vhhdiPCpDB6vIEzIyeoVVELZY1thTLYJAuYXhJmnGIUGRPQswo3tyf-R-XeE-yRfK7XT3lXJCTf7Y7nafWYgfYhH5fA/s320/20230706_200658.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHXtglKwzU0pMKNbUI5gmH7geGwmA2sYSMlDjwuRV4f6C6sqDo1QMFppJ2IHJawwYTBOOT1LkpD0NDaTqWaU1hGC6YGnopzHVaToFTHBQX3vc3RBLbnvFGdASpxvsXmf6XORZVOw688jiYONvCtU09iJ5NdW5HCE_9y4_J-hh5zk39P13q8udM1D5iLE/s1209/20230706_200817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHXtglKwzU0pMKNbUI5gmH7geGwmA2sYSMlDjwuRV4f6C6sqDo1QMFppJ2IHJawwYTBOOT1LkpD0NDaTqWaU1hGC6YGnopzHVaToFTHBQX3vc3RBLbnvFGdASpxvsXmf6XORZVOw688jiYONvCtU09iJ5NdW5HCE_9y4_J-hh5zk39P13q8udM1D5iLE/s320/20230706_200817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mentre cucino la basta a Gigi, e lui smadonna fortissimo contro Inps e sistema, conosco due ragazzi inglesi che sono in viaggio da un anno. Sono partiti dalla Patagonia, dopo aver comprato due bici scassone che poi, a una certa, han venduto per proseguire e piedi e con i mezzi. Ora hanno deciso di provare ad iniziare a correre, cosa che non hanno mai fatto, per partecipare alla maratona di Città del Messico che si svolgerà a fine agosto. Poi torneranno a casa. Sono due ragazzi simpatici, entusiasti ma non ingenui, biondi e abbronzati. Ci chiacchiero volentieri. Quando rientro in camera e riferisco a Gigi, che è ancora incazzato per le sue beghe, commenta secco: ma la gente non lavora mai? Si placa poi con l'ottima pasta al formaggio che gli ho preparato, e così finisce la giornata. Domani staremo qui a San Francisco de Campeche, a visitare e sistemare la logistica dei prossimi giorni. Poi torneremo a tuffarci nella giungla, in direzione Calakmul!</div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-38896587530888423412023-07-04T08:39:00.005+02:002023-07-04T08:39:49.551+02:0010-12. Chichen Itza e Mérida<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNr5mZtw8rvieEwDrw7MS_UsZ44MGVEjlpfFMYXAaFzb2eOoScnDJbi_HENZwWlFPGyBARc0P5ukSK-vL798E-zXS47Kf5XXvK00daiokI2yILnrM2sJVsEg992sCFZTFyULozorUNTF16IbwX5ypLAdleHhWd9YHIAMmmzS9LP8ysgQq_lsW9ajRoQow/s1210/20230701_141612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNr5mZtw8rvieEwDrw7MS_UsZ44MGVEjlpfFMYXAaFzb2eOoScnDJbi_HENZwWlFPGyBARc0P5ukSK-vL798E-zXS47Kf5XXvK00daiokI2yILnrM2sJVsEg992sCFZTFyULozorUNTF16IbwX5ypLAdleHhWd9YHIAMmmzS9LP8ysgQq_lsW9ajRoQow/w640-h296/20230701_141612.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAsyUhGaPpg7Gvd3vOcW3j9DBaNFpkQqEBWMzeaQWR5H48E7_ZKgR79DT0OaZgRcMmaEJzeHeoQF10K9aGMUH4AARRYFTX2BbFys6nZVkfcsDU98tIM85o9u9l34EBHltZsE4OfvAnvFwaqpUw2-nMPfZzKi1YXf8Eputp8yO1pnb3n8p6kvWLvvaxuz0/s1210/20230701_154220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAsyUhGaPpg7Gvd3vOcW3j9DBaNFpkQqEBWMzeaQWR5H48E7_ZKgR79DT0OaZgRcMmaEJzeHeoQF10K9aGMUH4AARRYFTX2BbFys6nZVkfcsDU98tIM85o9u9l34EBHltZsE4OfvAnvFwaqpUw2-nMPfZzKi1YXf8Eputp8yO1pnb3n8p6kvWLvvaxuz0/w640-h296/20230701_154220.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSlhVrNQRiGUtWuCaBtiDzZuHx7_P8cl_hDAbkkyhyyK2PiGtr6WW3UPo2OHUnrG9mkIxpkwox6L1F5vsmC7w6W3Dkmmgy12fJ5OPvB6aqDZ01rbCoVzMnpodXs3fOYOCRF-1MYaEnPgCOzf58jvqR7dr46IJS2dDwIFNFZfmiCJVZxZ8CxN31Fbg8dKE/s1209/20230701_160752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSlhVrNQRiGUtWuCaBtiDzZuHx7_P8cl_hDAbkkyhyyK2PiGtr6WW3UPo2OHUnrG9mkIxpkwox6L1F5vsmC7w6W3Dkmmgy12fJ5OPvB6aqDZ01rbCoVzMnpodXs3fOYOCRF-1MYaEnPgCOzf58jvqR7dr46IJS2dDwIFNFZfmiCJVZxZ8CxN31Fbg8dKE/w640-h480/20230701_160752.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTOyQHLQx5RGA_O2A6UGw-yleAWtnVDgwe0WbLQ_ndMj1T4lDAtXbHCrQM3OxABrOLZU_nGXogeQ07F2F6YGeaYZqIU0hjRRpcYk7nTWNAS-xb6zvd4rYCz3bOzWMUnhSOJJz11WOiJR7ce7AZI3wwBcyc_qibQ0ElLG3ymCw7n6Q7Fknty9w7z60VRZY/s1209/20230701_110948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTOyQHLQx5RGA_O2A6UGw-yleAWtnVDgwe0WbLQ_ndMj1T4lDAtXbHCrQM3OxABrOLZU_nGXogeQ07F2F6YGeaYZqIU0hjRRpcYk7nTWNAS-xb6zvd4rYCz3bOzWMUnhSOJJz11WOiJR7ce7AZI3wwBcyc_qibQ0ElLG3ymCw7n6Q7Fknty9w7z60VRZY/w300-h400/20230701_110948.jpg" width="300" /></a></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdp5-tG227oJcMUN8PVsl2DTBNS4c8DQXEky0FSZGemVihrp5GdEOAj2Wf-MIojytpUjpj_UfckjlliJvjvnU_wFgwXjcgPir41jdPoemFGiDUDXq8quots5XZqL0pSaw9A05frgCULypEgkGO54bE2eUmoapp5z7yo0Aehg0jySNB6RgY-BpL281BMvM/s1209/20230701_122045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdp5-tG227oJcMUN8PVsl2DTBNS4c8DQXEky0FSZGemVihrp5GdEOAj2Wf-MIojytpUjpj_UfckjlliJvjvnU_wFgwXjcgPir41jdPoemFGiDUDXq8quots5XZqL0pSaw9A05frgCULypEgkGO54bE2eUmoapp5z7yo0Aehg0jySNB6RgY-BpL281BMvM/w300-h400/20230701_122045.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">1/7</span></div><div style="text-align: left;">Valladolid-Pisté (Chichen Itza)</div><div style="text-align: left;">51km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cosa può andare storto, durante un viaggio in bici? Molte cose, direte voi. Esatto. E oggi sono successe quasi tutte: Gigi è caduto preda del cagotto, ha la febbre e sta male, e si è dovuto ciucciare una mezza giornata in sella sotto al sole cocente in condizioni penose. Io ho bucato, cosa assai meno grave, ma comunque fastidiosa, vista la situazione. Avevo l'ansia di non vedere Chichen Itza, che chiude alle 17, sa papà dios perchè, Siamo in un posto che non è esattamente il Grand Hotel, funestati dal solito annoso problema del cesso che non scarica a dovere e si intappa. La città di Mérida, dove comunque ci saremmo fermati almeno un giorno, dista circa 120km, che non sono una passeggiata se si sta male. Insomma, così. E siamo solo al quarto giorno di viaggio! Che Montezuma o qualche sovrano maya ci abbiano presi di mira?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Riavvolgo il nastro. Stamattina tutto sembrava tranquillo. Siamo usciti presto e faceva già un caldo devastante, ma ormai ci stiamo abituando. Siamo andati a comprare la colazione passando per il centro di Valladolid, che è davvero piacevole e tranquillo, con le sue case color pastello e i cartelli scritti in spagnolo e in lingua yucateca. La maggioranza della popolazione, anche qui, è indigena, per quanto urbanizzata, e lo si nota anche dagli abiti tradizionali delle donne.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2aA8MhNPlIuI8fPgZ0IWZoNIcW7tCa8gSE3qECNpdJZZsmtsHFIyMTXw2eYO93ECfCGivRh_NfvI5VYvlvPyRu1fAWunhTQFsSa71EHJZYK5tHoEK9T4W__vq-yOiRg8U9xRauFdLuFlSFHgDK8J-2ysAJTRVz_ppzKvmwAUW16JYBcuCPS-zbyxNhY/s1209/20230701_073850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2aA8MhNPlIuI8fPgZ0IWZoNIcW7tCa8gSE3qECNpdJZZsmtsHFIyMTXw2eYO93ECfCGivRh_NfvI5VYvlvPyRu1fAWunhTQFsSa71EHJZYK5tHoEK9T4W__vq-yOiRg8U9xRauFdLuFlSFHgDK8J-2ysAJTRVz_ppzKvmwAUW16JYBcuCPS-zbyxNhY/s320/20230701_073850.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSt2ctmdaEAHtDaSNEhFrpKTgQr9ewzU8YrK5dNJY01h95ho8l7LSiIfsj5eNzjBfGIKu7VvzU_LwX6neLLqYiyv6htEg5hNj9VMcjFXOJ5z8IBQvaimpAtRHLpUU03jgM_7cEby1jgjhH5_QBFr7mHhruYk8TAD-ZKUdIB--F5Bnrs2euitabp7QU9D8/s1209/20230701_074049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSt2ctmdaEAHtDaSNEhFrpKTgQr9ewzU8YrK5dNJY01h95ho8l7LSiIfsj5eNzjBfGIKu7VvzU_LwX6neLLqYiyv6htEg5hNj9VMcjFXOJ5z8IBQvaimpAtRHLpUU03jgM_7cEby1jgjhH5_QBFr7mHhruYk8TAD-ZKUdIB--F5Bnrs2euitabp7QU9D8/s320/20230701_074049.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi dà già i primi segnali di malessere: si sente stanco e non ha appetito. Fin qui, però, sembra tutto sotto controllo. Prenoto un alloggio a Pisté, la cittadina adiacente a Chichen Itza, e ci mettiamo in moto. Uscendo dalla città rivediamo la Cattedrale di San Gervasio e il monastero di San Bernardino. Vale la pena dir due parole su Valladolid, perchè ha una storia tumultuosa quanto, almeno, le budella del povero Gigi. La città è stata fondata dagli spagnoli nel 1543 vicino alla laguna Chouac-Ha, a 50km dalla costa, ma questa zona era troppo calda e infestata dalle zanzare. Allora i conquistadores la spostarono più in alto, dove sorgeva il centro cerimoniale maya di Zacì. Ovviamente, per conquistare il luogo, ci fu una battaglia sanguinosa, altrettanto ovviamente vinta dagli spagnoli. Questi rasero al suolo la città maya e costruirono da nuovo tutto (la cattedrale di San Gervasio, ad esempio, è fatta con le pietre della precedente piramide cerimoniale). Per buona parte del periodo coloniale, Valladolid rimase in posizione isolata e autonoma dal potere regio, ma gli indigeni subirono un brutale sfruttamento, che proseguì anche dopo l'indipendenza messicana, con tanto di apartheid e quartieri vietati ai maya. Quindi, allo scoppio della guerra delle caste, nel 1847, i nativi presero d'assedio la città e, dopo due mesi, la conquistarono. Chi non riuscì a fuggire fu massacrato. Et voilà.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiExtpHU8QS3oxdapumyLj-V5dkSpusvrfAQlwjG2-nhvtnLjFiA16slKI_nGi9km0Ypnq4YryUvWqgiAXId6EvGaAJyAXxTvzGniMSE9ync91HEp5m1gQRLZIJWUDdICTa9RaXZ2mPUMYqnOfVw0wuv9GRH1GhfAX5CJFhdl72Lpmhgr4WRinT05qYCfs/s1209/20230701_092417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiExtpHU8QS3oxdapumyLj-V5dkSpusvrfAQlwjG2-nhvtnLjFiA16slKI_nGi9km0Ypnq4YryUvWqgiAXId6EvGaAJyAXxTvzGniMSE9ync91HEp5m1gQRLZIJWUDdICTa9RaXZ2mPUMYqnOfVw0wuv9GRH1GhfAX5CJFhdl72Lpmhgr4WRinT05qYCfs/s320/20230701_092417.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo questo breve excursus nella storia fradicia di sangue, torniamo sulla nostra 180 libre, diretti a Chichen Itza. I paesini che si affacciano sulla strada sono tutti votati al turismo di massa che transita a pullmanate da Cancun o Tulum a Merida, via Chichen. E' una gran fiera di oggetti di qualità più o meno scadente, souvenir, berretti, cappelli, statuine, teli made in China e cocchi freschi appena raccolti.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrdOVnfhXGmPx_JDg5pEj6XLWSefn2nGdju42Z4im5zS6vMzr6m0N1MUABfHfulX7dxg5e_SU_O07r_4JCyzr3Cat6ffpul6EM9dejN8MNKu3GE2_JDQ7rj0yFXZGQIrNyb0tAElyH2oR-5olJ3MEy5kyoj7mg91FFyNbOW5ZDMPJMIU7Yh7QIEPI2V4/s1209/20230701_095505.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrdOVnfhXGmPx_JDg5pEj6XLWSefn2nGdju42Z4im5zS6vMzr6m0N1MUABfHfulX7dxg5e_SU_O07r_4JCyzr3Cat6ffpul6EM9dejN8MNKu3GE2_JDQ7rj0yFXZGQIrNyb0tAElyH2oR-5olJ3MEy5kyoj7mg91FFyNbOW5ZDMPJMIU7Yh7QIEPI2V4/s320/20230701_095505.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBts83kjNB0jlRD7foblHACQ1g-vci2duhntW2NkT7HhmUcGNxjJcEwlp-fOWFBHErF5RTTYbeP_fZqIneKViMiKG2A9bDDGqzG1QcVetEVIxPEgfWdCI0_9-bnAwtQjE8WltVSDGcyedwNuJrH1HCSttfy7N_caAH4PmkvhY8XbUYxyEgGOZVe7lLsIA/s1209/20230701_095525.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBts83kjNB0jlRD7foblHACQ1g-vci2duhntW2NkT7HhmUcGNxjJcEwlp-fOWFBHErF5RTTYbeP_fZqIneKViMiKG2A9bDDGqzG1QcVetEVIxPEgfWdCI0_9-bnAwtQjE8WltVSDGcyedwNuJrH1HCSttfy7N_caAH4PmkvhY8XbUYxyEgGOZVe7lLsIA/s320/20230701_095525.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKgs9uEpIIfMShXgGJxPZyOF1hodQjSazNwiT7qW7odgdOTJNQW-lqO6Y4HxZlkFlHOdtg4TWAa8DIauXTFTOYH1VUVVwah0hdDSmp-i-gO2AHxC_fZnalTFfhknz8JLo8gO696cel8dsmFwRvrK2Jai917RG-hvpDkPMsjcIkWixlRJMHnw23Y07tFw/s1209/20230701_095600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKgs9uEpIIfMShXgGJxPZyOF1hodQjSazNwiT7qW7odgdOTJNQW-lqO6Y4HxZlkFlHOdtg4TWAa8DIauXTFTOYH1VUVVwah0hdDSmp-i-gO2AHxC_fZnalTFfhknz8JLo8gO696cel8dsmFwRvrK2Jai917RG-hvpDkPMsjcIkWixlRJMHnw23Y07tFw/s320/20230701_095600.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtYyTcNZCZvxJyBN4enxjaofIuxu4KM0H04LjGvCRV79Rn5nOZV5dhx47DdbqEwLX8eCl21jZcpoZW4rFTWh6wfZP6siisEwnie9y2Opl54JnDh7fMQRtlCMDZatHYidddp04afGf3j_5AsS2xJPba5UKAMOBV0VXNaL5mNSEjcydw-sU8Np76JeRoXg/s1209/20230701_101124.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtYyTcNZCZvxJyBN4enxjaofIuxu4KM0H04LjGvCRV79Rn5nOZV5dhx47DdbqEwLX8eCl21jZcpoZW4rFTWh6wfZP6siisEwnie9y2Opl54JnDh7fMQRtlCMDZatHYidddp04afGf3j_5AsS2xJPba5UKAMOBV0VXNaL5mNSEjcydw-sU8Np76JeRoXg/s320/20230701_101124.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il percorso per noi dovrebbe essere breve, svelto e facile. Sono 50km tutti d'asfalto ottimo, piani e dritti. Ma quella che dovrebbe essere una tappa tranquilla si trasforma in una via crucis. Gigi inizia a stare male, si sente debole, soffre il caldo e fatica a spingere sui pedali. Dobbiamo fermarci ogni manciata di kilometri, ogni volta che si trova un filo d'ombra. E il passo supera di poco i 10km/h. Una sofferenza. Ma le alternative non ci sono: qui i bus non fermano... E Gigi non ha voglia di pietire un passaggio, preferisce provare a proseguire con le sue gambe. Passiamo i pueblos di Ektun, Cuncunul, Kaua e X-Calakoop, tutti fatti da una striscia di edifici per parte, affacciati alla strada, e poco più; sono ristoranti, negozietti, bancarelle. Il passo si fa sempre più lento e le stazioni della passione di Gigi si susseguono.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJRVAPNvwnFObkrQDbhEnuaqoONtHciShb9197FhRRH2xg7CTwBCVwhluu7nWTgFYGbdWT2adZXOG1cAAshEQjb8hsrxo1ERqk9-xCfQKUPlNmAfYudln3O1dHGVsHFXsv7drWhDSROWsoA2f8iKh4aWJzXTDLHr7jVaKv__XHd7fuoqm5buAatnd9to/s1209/20230701_102710.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJRVAPNvwnFObkrQDbhEnuaqoONtHciShb9197FhRRH2xg7CTwBCVwhluu7nWTgFYGbdWT2adZXOG1cAAshEQjb8hsrxo1ERqk9-xCfQKUPlNmAfYudln3O1dHGVsHFXsv7drWhDSROWsoA2f8iKh4aWJzXTDLHr7jVaKv__XHd7fuoqm5buAatnd9to/s320/20230701_102710.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yY4WRasAnUGWlK6A-KUH9a0MjM13-Dp-WD2WnZNa5-bUeGqEdBPfWLV_ndfwFDbVTyU4QhDhZihkq4q1lcRx-Vby3iaX_wK0KvOAeMMxH1Fr9EsPY_r3Wu3jizrJF3ktA2nfzhraqs-DEJjqYNvxIzB1ketuDgGjrfwCCgcVKlWGctuG-YtKiRJh9iw/s1209/20230701_103221.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yY4WRasAnUGWlK6A-KUH9a0MjM13-Dp-WD2WnZNa5-bUeGqEdBPfWLV_ndfwFDbVTyU4QhDhZihkq4q1lcRx-Vby3iaX_wK0KvOAeMMxH1Fr9EsPY_r3Wu3jizrJF3ktA2nfzhraqs-DEJjqYNvxIzB1ketuDgGjrfwCCgcVKlWGctuG-YtKiRJh9iw/s320/20230701_103221.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUCgXRR6Yah1iP0UQ2WVk1iW5JYp0DOdD6HTQUUq0nliUfgTki0zSXqtOcMWPdfVD3dGgtgslxKWkNRw1FL_4z-MeKXJGRDhNDzzaYJV2cX4ZXoiZD8-Tykot6V721ldXRHX-FbBQqJNwfDb-I2yz1NNXH4eTJh_AXKtaG_ZBTVhRw5qw7QSJkp4GHeo/s1209/20230701_110948.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKUCgXRR6Yah1iP0UQ2WVk1iW5JYp0DOdD6HTQUUq0nliUfgTki0zSXqtOcMWPdfVD3dGgtgslxKWkNRw1FL_4z-MeKXJGRDhNDzzaYJV2cX4ZXoiZD8-Tykot6V721ldXRHX-FbBQqJNwfDb-I2yz1NNXH4eTJh_AXKtaG_ZBTVhRw5qw7QSJkp4GHeo/s320/20230701_110948.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-KwyC4N7_zUXVEF-_NkvH4Ewnb_ivWwrDqqX3C9FNa_9pWqoDorv7Z2-4xQ7sOw2tea3971Z-ywsSzTm_aHfknwGQ8u0SY8kXwuB7J1FsUX--6b5sdN1gqNjDO4pF-k4bzHx6szeCn3oEJF1wPRHZCzHEVwEPE9SUHGzHOS7-oacmZCsNt97oKE1DrMI/s979/20230701_111049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-KwyC4N7_zUXVEF-_NkvH4Ewnb_ivWwrDqqX3C9FNa_9pWqoDorv7Z2-4xQ7sOw2tea3971Z-ywsSzTm_aHfknwGQ8u0SY8kXwuB7J1FsUX--6b5sdN1gqNjDO4pF-k4bzHx6szeCn3oEJF1wPRHZCzHEVwEPE9SUHGzHOS7-oacmZCsNt97oKE1DrMI/s320/20230701_111049.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGkLNrhy6bAjXfUxqpAOh7BICI_jIyMD9EQLVlzDomebxwahZFlnqgSdseTz4kLbFq7YGKLNac-sQE0l8JyTD3gogW37XPV57oP3ndNtCH_PlzlCHAgOWY0b16LElhQ2wbkWIk4WZW4cutZxVEoRHU20E7Jcm6l5KUX9Dfg1S2DTr5W29773DbYPO_Epc/s1209/20230701_122045.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGkLNrhy6bAjXfUxqpAOh7BICI_jIyMD9EQLVlzDomebxwahZFlnqgSdseTz4kLbFq7YGKLNac-sQE0l8JyTD3gogW37XPV57oP3ndNtCH_PlzlCHAgOWY0b16LElhQ2wbkWIk4WZW4cutZxVEoRHU20E7Jcm6l5KUX9Dfg1S2DTr5W29773DbYPO_Epc/s320/20230701_122045.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJ8HD6pjBQSI8vGHJLHKGr3Gcp_marTvmgzk9mVyVMV6oAGjFjVOUXNxeRJdeFDYRmdDFztSoZNRMoS9sockQzi4Xx_6DOHhI5nGa4pwIyUMMjkvuqPKFZinSZzWFz2wY3BIhR-_2KhvMlywxFBfYLgxqIaJlzoMlHwKh6ZIi7im9Z8hVs6aeh-vBJxI/s1209/20230701_124802.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJ8HD6pjBQSI8vGHJLHKGr3Gcp_marTvmgzk9mVyVMV6oAGjFjVOUXNxeRJdeFDYRmdDFztSoZNRMoS9sockQzi4Xx_6DOHhI5nGa4pwIyUMMjkvuqPKFZinSZzWFz2wY3BIhR-_2KhvMlywxFBfYLgxqIaJlzoMlHwKh6ZIi7im9Z8hVs6aeh-vBJxI/s320/20230701_124802.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIuJ1mct85QUiPg3FAQQRb6VUqywXStLnJxU060R1zbXnU1P4mvU4npmodLkMOCE-fwVmNR06VWGNMmITIEbnuOzQ-PfSldNt3DSuZ5GR_C3g8YJsVN-nsZS9O4q2YV1nGn2thOqGkv54IF2hco-dY00u40oTaUbWf82613gg-kYXRC-P784QKIz28PxM/s1209/20230701_124814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIuJ1mct85QUiPg3FAQQRb6VUqywXStLnJxU060R1zbXnU1P4mvU4npmodLkMOCE-fwVmNR06VWGNMmITIEbnuOzQ-PfSldNt3DSuZ5GR_C3g8YJsVN-nsZS9O4q2YV1nGn2thOqGkv54IF2hco-dY00u40oTaUbWf82613gg-kYXRC-P784QKIz28PxM/s320/20230701_124814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EpdTl1ed8sMHdlFnTmbuN_tMg-uSIXpGXQkX47hbGYLtxDs9H5kEOf0Ow2vapvmrF_6dMaH3goomHx-vAUmQHwn_Y3RXXfrEqKr61OeUduQYVmurSaUeOWBUpZkCZl8KvpFWHpFlAhtE6vQ37dnxSHZv2tPxuss44onbOZQpeElEw-B_31o0oHLj6mI/s1209/20230701_130443.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EpdTl1ed8sMHdlFnTmbuN_tMg-uSIXpGXQkX47hbGYLtxDs9H5kEOf0Ow2vapvmrF_6dMaH3goomHx-vAUmQHwn_Y3RXXfrEqKr61OeUduQYVmurSaUeOWBUpZkCZl8KvpFWHpFlAhtE6vQ37dnxSHZv2tPxuss44onbOZQpeElEw-B_31o0oHLj6mI/s320/20230701_130443.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">questa no, dai</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">A un certo punto Gigi si ferma a bere una Coca, sperando sturi, e ha un conato di vomito quasi addosso a un ragazzo che gli si è seduto accanto a chiacchierare. Io, intanto, sono stata trascinata nel vortice di palabras di un ambulante con la sua bancarella. Mi aveva incuriosito, invero, un'action figure di Goku in mezzo alle statuine di giaguari, piramidi, verginelle di Guadalupe e guerrieri maya. Ma lui mi attacca una pippa infinita e mi spiega ogni pietra, ogni pezzo di vetro o plastica che ha lì in mostra. Mi racconta di tutti i rituali che si possono fare con le varie pietre (le più, sappiatelo, purificano e bisogna metterle con il bicarbonato e l'acqua non so dove (nel chiulo, immagino) ogni martedì e giovedì. Insomma, 'ste collanine sono un lavoro! Ma per lui: vuole rifilarmele a prezzi indecenti, come una camera doppia d'hotel scrauso. Alle mie risate del tipo <i>hey, amigo, magari pensi che tutti i gringos siano giocondi ma lo siento, hai sbagliato volpe, </i>iniziano le contrattazioni. Per fortuna Gigi coglie i miei sguardi disperati e si alza per andare, nonostante i conati a spuzzo. Io lascio giù tutto il ciarpame che il venditore mi ha cacciato in mano e fatto indossare e via, di nuovo per strada al nostro passo da armadillo deceduto.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">In tutto questo io ho bucato già da mo, ma con un fil di ferro così sottile che basta rigonfiare la gomma ogni tanto per poter proseguire. Ora le urgenze sono altre: portare Gigi a riposare, arrivare a Chichen Itza prima che sia raggiunto il numero massimo di visitatori giornalieri, o prima che chiuda. Che ansia!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Finalmente arriviamo, o crediamo di essere arrivati: c'è del personale in divisa, c'è una sbarra, c'è un cartello che indica le rovine archeologiche... Truffone, mannaggia a loro. Si tratta di un ingresso secondario, che ti porta a circa 3km da quello ufficiale. Ma casualmente lì ha sede un ristorante che fa anche da servizio di trasporto, e vende il pacchetto almuerzo + bus. Che furbacchioni! E che coglioni noi! Ma poco male, in bici son distanze ragionevoli. Quindi ringraziamo, salutiamo e torniamo sui nostri passi, io con la gomma molla e storta, Gigi moribondo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5EwW_m4qYz_Nh4GFCyjsPbG9v2Kzmx6AWOllIYqNTJ5SjnJ5cH64oSle6C5E9S6CBdTWtzsEfKEFwfmjIe2_ngti-AjJJG0u-pRSH4n346dJtTiw_CcuoAO0AcQu7gI4ekpgrqSSFiUkf8Jng5MYCkFs7HeIRtvE5kPTtqZ4dhVolidSTUN6goYMQRM/s1209/20230701_132747.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5EwW_m4qYz_Nh4GFCyjsPbG9v2Kzmx6AWOllIYqNTJ5SjnJ5cH64oSle6C5E9S6CBdTWtzsEfKEFwfmjIe2_ngti-AjJJG0u-pRSH4n346dJtTiw_CcuoAO0AcQu7gI4ekpgrqSSFiUkf8Jng5MYCkFs7HeIRtvE5kPTtqZ4dhVolidSTUN6goYMQRM/s320/20230701_132747.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_7-2LRwe4wetmcuEnYTdP2L_o-MiJ6q3tLA-OUpvoHGz-NpzFLfT3bpJDihMGifkxMM1y1zZ1eaTG-e_B3HbOX8LTx_c9mQLIHPhTxVHP5M5sNYRgaP7SVUNsrB-O6fSRIB4Sp70xJUegt10NLenE2PLMjkti28_f5BnTIE50vZFW46lOANpYm_3yTY/s1209/20230701_135434.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_7-2LRwe4wetmcuEnYTdP2L_o-MiJ6q3tLA-OUpvoHGz-NpzFLfT3bpJDihMGifkxMM1y1zZ1eaTG-e_B3HbOX8LTx_c9mQLIHPhTxVHP5M5sNYRgaP7SVUNsrB-O6fSRIB4Sp70xJUegt10NLenE2PLMjkti28_f5BnTIE50vZFW46lOANpYm_3yTY/s320/20230701_135434.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Finalmente eccoci ai cancelli del sito archeologico. Gigi, plot twist, decide di non entrare, ma nemmeno di andare da solo in hotel (che dista nemmeno 2km). Preferisce sedersi fuori ai baretti e morire lì un paio d'ore. Non insisto, ha già fatto tanto. Anche se io, al posto suo, entrerei e, piuttosto, morirei lì, con onore, nel cenote sagrado dove buttavan dentro le vittime sacrificali. Quindi ci dividiamo. Lui rimane con le bici proprio alla porta del sito, io entro. Le famigerate impossibile code per le biglietterie sono a zero, non esistono. E' falsa anche la notizia che si debbano fare due code per i due biglietti (quello dell'ingresso e quello delle tasse). Si fa tutto insieme, con lo sproposito maledetto che costa.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRMFh9LAsfrjh3apq8ApgRS80Y0Yg3sxKb_2JHPCj5hY8mjir_EBDD5n9koMLghipQElxP4hmEb70mlXP2Ug09mCKsWQtrxhUDRK7MRGTkB6pw-8dpNsVl9VP6QAGFeb-Tk6rPMLl7Jd1cu8Pg-61Y8EaI1Gn7Oo4vIz3PjLd8tSUIgaQiiMkG6fe0hg/s1209/20230701_135745.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRMFh9LAsfrjh3apq8ApgRS80Y0Yg3sxKb_2JHPCj5hY8mjir_EBDD5n9koMLghipQElxP4hmEb70mlXP2Ug09mCKsWQtrxhUDRK7MRGTkB6pw-8dpNsVl9VP6QAGFeb-Tk6rPMLl7Jd1cu8Pg-61Y8EaI1Gn7Oo4vIz3PjLd8tSUIgaQiiMkG6fe0hg/s320/20230701_135745.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il primo impatto con la zona archeologica è quella di un marché de putaneé. Su ogni viottolo tra le rovine ci sono decine di bancarelle, cui si aggiungono ambulanti più disperati che nemmeno hanno il tavolino (chissà che pizzi ci sono da pagare in questo mondo atroce). Ma poi la meraviglia arriva, eccome se arriva! E tutta insieme, senza preavviso.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYOdD0Tbrtqmf2LFx1Wzw4l04eHyR_ZGrkuux9aKkS4KEurNnKxFRsrbK2DYBcHKqpoNJyH6l2bJ61nmGPHE0kwb9gRWrAuAIoc5qC-47s3Q7Vdgl-KeL5vTRW9UD-G8GAm8Dq3B9qas7g5UsTmkQR4y1BHul_wILYZ3xzX2AhKMsldXkFFMGqooymVnI/s1209/20230701_141055.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYOdD0Tbrtqmf2LFx1Wzw4l04eHyR_ZGrkuux9aKkS4KEurNnKxFRsrbK2DYBcHKqpoNJyH6l2bJ61nmGPHE0kwb9gRWrAuAIoc5qC-47s3Q7Vdgl-KeL5vTRW9UD-G8GAm8Dq3B9qas7g5UsTmkQR4y1BHul_wILYZ3xzX2AhKMsldXkFFMGqooymVnI/s320/20230701_141055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3EbQKvy5hGIrUhWWEZD5WvO7tezYS5Wp3Vdc7GVjyusIf-EqeDCqGivSEEvPeSMzavmuuNzYEhWD8xFbeA4Qnw8CEFEp6XV4YgQXUkkkV-DtCzFXxE9bQgJo6_X9qhAfqFPxz1PPEW3MKTWVnXqJ9ppBeUhhbcqCm6cJXbQOJV54jGbHSF8aFedsSpa0/s1209/20230701_141212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3EbQKvy5hGIrUhWWEZD5WvO7tezYS5Wp3Vdc7GVjyusIf-EqeDCqGivSEEvPeSMzavmuuNzYEhWD8xFbeA4Qnw8CEFEp6XV4YgQXUkkkV-DtCzFXxE9bQgJo6_X9qhAfqFPxz1PPEW3MKTWVnXqJ9ppBeUhhbcqCm6cJXbQOJV54jGbHSF8aFedsSpa0/s320/20230701_141212.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjOV-s1PRLOIAXGHfZrniTwrhO6dvRVOUwjDHOsM1amME8yKra1r2p1cmg-iyXJ7rdBZ4btsSqMLdod6eC8gLxfrzIFxO7zGkABBhkfkDCGe_BVP8MTHRIbh_Mx6ml9QZ8n7K1IpnkWrVAw2SbIgtT6m-6ynaYr9e2SjtPdWZVTGJy1b9IA9xgwsydGg/s1210/20230701_142308.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjOV-s1PRLOIAXGHfZrniTwrhO6dvRVOUwjDHOsM1amME8yKra1r2p1cmg-iyXJ7rdBZ4btsSqMLdod6eC8gLxfrzIFxO7zGkABBhkfkDCGe_BVP8MTHRIbh_Mx6ml9QZ8n7K1IpnkWrVAw2SbIgtT6m-6ynaYr9e2SjtPdWZVTGJy1b9IA9xgwsydGg/s320/20230701_142308.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div style="text-align: justify;">Riassumendo Wikipedia, Chichén Itzá è un importante complesso archeologico maya. Le rovine, che si estendono su un'area di 3 km², appartenevano ad una grande città che fu uno dei più importanti centri della regione intorno al periodo epiclassico della civiltà maya, fra il VI e l'XI secolo. Il sito comprende numerosi edifici, rappresentativi di diversi stili; fra i più celebri si possono indicare la piramide di Kukulkan (nota come El Castillo), l'osservatoio astronomico (il Caracol) e il Tempio dei guerrieri.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il sito di Chichén Itzá è stato dichiarato patrimonio dell'umanità UNESCO nel 1988 ed è stato inserito nel 2007 fra le sette meraviglie del mondo moderno.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9XuXdRHn4FSgNdW-JFV_w4n3ytyquJhz8U50kSiQ1kvsB6RsRcBlvR3gu767sFJcH1HsYZ6Ihl6lZq1_RxLASZRlDan9pxIoMmGAzRqcNmXc7mBjp5y-Ge16tFIAb-Z9T93uv2bqdK3bFyodcJ07LYH-qfMp3BNX0CenUuTkfY_inUCrKjh0JrgrM8k/s1209/20230701_142412.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9XuXdRHn4FSgNdW-JFV_w4n3ytyquJhz8U50kSiQ1kvsB6RsRcBlvR3gu767sFJcH1HsYZ6Ihl6lZq1_RxLASZRlDan9pxIoMmGAzRqcNmXc7mBjp5y-Ge16tFIAb-Z9T93uv2bqdK3bFyodcJ07LYH-qfMp3BNX0CenUuTkfY_inUCrKjh0JrgrM8k/s1209/20230701_142412.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9XuXdRHn4FSgNdW-JFV_w4n3ytyquJhz8U50kSiQ1kvsB6RsRcBlvR3gu767sFJcH1HsYZ6Ihl6lZq1_RxLASZRlDan9pxIoMmGAzRqcNmXc7mBjp5y-Ge16tFIAb-Z9T93uv2bqdK3bFyodcJ07LYH-qfMp3BNX0CenUuTkfY_inUCrKjh0JrgrM8k/s320/20230701_142412.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjloNh7KgmFTfaw792-GqlRWsyAU0C4jUqRCsPlBUiSIF848QVYlTYplkV2lU1zVpd5hnZGwUwT9RpIU7On1mkOfBM9J6DtHv6fRGl7s5jljVJ3b-39jjFfgbDzKxCUR0pk5phfvCroLnuHVG2UQN-UnD10HdUMBjFw9YLWwYkGI5GlMGiztD8SuNF_Fs/s1209/20230701_142948.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjloNh7KgmFTfaw792-GqlRWsyAU0C4jUqRCsPlBUiSIF848QVYlTYplkV2lU1zVpd5hnZGwUwT9RpIU7On1mkOfBM9J6DtHv6fRGl7s5jljVJ3b-39jjFfgbDzKxCUR0pk5phfvCroLnuHVG2UQN-UnD10HdUMBjFw9YLWwYkGI5GlMGiztD8SuNF_Fs/s320/20230701_142948.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span face="sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #202122; font-size: 14px;"><div><span face="sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #202122; font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></div></span><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il nome Chichén Itzá deriva dalle parole chi ("bocca") e ch'en ("pozzo"), e significa letteralmente "Alla bocca del pozzo degli Itza". Gli Itza erano un gruppo etnico che aveva una posizione politica ed economica predominante nella parte settentrionale dello Yucatán. A sua volta, il nome "Itza" viene in genere ricondotto a itz ("magia") e (h)á ("acqua"), e tradotto in "maghi" (o "streghe") "dell'acqua", dice Wikipedia. Infatti qui ci sono due cenote. E non è un caso che venissero usati anche per sacrificare esseri umani alla divinità della pioggia.</div><span face="sans-serif" style="color: #202122;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs-qKbGeszxVwb7asT_H11K_KP3eJ5AXec2uSSDS8UrzKrmthEbxKOTgyOIdppt6c9XfKY0iEOn8AxjtTQHH2utHZR5akUSgIvv0Mlnhde7H5CYe7_qUUhyTntakKmS3M7_Ok5MNxmKeSGvETkaBIZlWbxa8A1BfF4REI7Mp1mnQVutCmPACE5Qu72eGQ/s1209/20230701_143005.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs-qKbGeszxVwb7asT_H11K_KP3eJ5AXec2uSSDS8UrzKrmthEbxKOTgyOIdppt6c9XfKY0iEOn8AxjtTQHH2utHZR5akUSgIvv0Mlnhde7H5CYe7_qUUhyTntakKmS3M7_Ok5MNxmKeSGvETkaBIZlWbxa8A1BfF4REI7Mp1mnQVutCmPACE5Qu72eGQ/s320/20230701_143005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioy95rV7O2fCaOzz9wKVNtGBI-v3IP2psIcTC5H-1bQcm9VYDzlg_oMS48emp0TwL6IH5mz896vIXRvxKmb8cApWMKc_igg4FSedfbpOkdM9s8kWtqhUp00GAOVF8ftB-_6BwzCPLxe0ofQkOXsej2vtgpQ1Ql3Ym6twBzNHGg-ZKlV9h4XxfUWNI15Eo/s1209/20230701_143023.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioy95rV7O2fCaOzz9wKVNtGBI-v3IP2psIcTC5H-1bQcm9VYDzlg_oMS48emp0TwL6IH5mz896vIXRvxKmb8cApWMKc_igg4FSedfbpOkdM9s8kWtqhUp00GAOVF8ftB-_6BwzCPLxe0ofQkOXsej2vtgpQ1Ql3Ym6twBzNHGg-ZKlV9h4XxfUWNI15Eo/s320/20230701_143023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Chichén Itzá ascese al predominio regionale verso la fine del 600d.C.. Fu comunque verso la fine del X secolo che il sito divenne una grande capitale regionale, centralizzando e dominando politicamente, culturalmente ed economicamente la vita nelle pianure settentrionali dei Maya.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">L'ascesa di Chichén Itzá viene messa in relazione con il declino dei principali centri Maya delle pianure meridionali, come ad esempio Tikal.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Alcune fonti indicano che intorno al 987 d.C. un re Tolteco di nome Quetzalcoatl arrivò in armi dal Messico centrale e, con l'aiuto di alleati locali, fece di Chichén Itzá la sua capitale, una seconda Tula. L'arte e l'architettura di questo periodo mostrano un interessante mescolanza di stili Maya e Toltechi. Tuttavia la recente nuova datazione del declino di Chichén Itzá indica che essa è in gran parte un sito del periodo classico finale, mentre Tula rimane un sito del primo periodo postclassico, rovesciando la direzione di possibile influenza (sempre parafrasando Wikipedia).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJl0va5KJoEbTM4oxpl9TVF1eVDAuVs-kKD4P9sEFoBRqevAMkwh1NTO-BW1lO6nXQQjRgjYqYfwHxUU0g_YoUizxeB5aKceX0wesTdlsBdXOAzTGZCE2dsHqkVmxCwi35aMrtABT9naGMu0u_PQhsjUG0Vi6WCsCDnadqYnBRp83w7_JlFr0_177xfBI/s1209/20230701_143123.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJl0va5KJoEbTM4oxpl9TVF1eVDAuVs-kKD4P9sEFoBRqevAMkwh1NTO-BW1lO6nXQQjRgjYqYfwHxUU0g_YoUizxeB5aKceX0wesTdlsBdXOAzTGZCE2dsHqkVmxCwi35aMrtABT9naGMu0u_PQhsjUG0Vi6WCsCDnadqYnBRp83w7_JlFr0_177xfBI/s320/20230701_143123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxZFqLWUX0enXvVqR60DZMdWAiNK1LGe34VdV5BFtXzUPPJxqr4W64rigcy04wv6zToCEKCb-FNIMrD5psblGsjeCF_mzA6OoluGCv8CGsmF4ad-fNGekGIpWc8ufAEnKCfNRGkojHMmFwjrXCzQI0GelqM1H5tZAP-HaetNJL0oNLY8C1ULlBF4v0XY/s1209/20230701_143252.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAxZFqLWUX0enXvVqR60DZMdWAiNK1LGe34VdV5BFtXzUPPJxqr4W64rigcy04wv6zToCEKCb-FNIMrD5psblGsjeCF_mzA6OoluGCv8CGsmF4ad-fNGekGIpWc8ufAEnKCfNRGkojHMmFwjrXCzQI0GelqM1H5tZAP-HaetNJL0oNLY8C1ULlBF4v0XY/s320/20230701_143252.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cartelli in spagnolo, inglese e lingua maya</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Vl5JinphjDnmaqSAi5h3eEy0b7QHUysvtaDHYpKbKA8d2FrNHNHJOiO9c3m60evuEpng9EUGtulzhrE8riHvaDJ2Dd8iZpUxs2ILUfxkv0bfz5Xx8P8xAtTtfPqb_OJCP_gACM7KbRieatGHCn6flASEflVgiB4wftMO4nErI3vsoWEueZmW8LzKvv4/s979/20230701_143331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Vl5JinphjDnmaqSAi5h3eEy0b7QHUysvtaDHYpKbKA8d2FrNHNHJOiO9c3m60evuEpng9EUGtulzhrE8riHvaDJ2Dd8iZpUxs2ILUfxkv0bfz5Xx8P8xAtTtfPqb_OJCP_gACM7KbRieatGHCn6flASEflVgiB4wftMO4nErI3vsoWEueZmW8LzKvv4/s320/20230701_143331.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div style="text-align: justify;">"Al contrario di altre città Maya del primo periodo classico, Chichén Itzá non era governata da un singolo individuo o da una singola dinastia. L'organizzazione politica della città era invece strutturata attraverso un sistema cosiddetto multepal, caratterizzato dal governo di un consiglio composto dai membri delle famiglie più importanti.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Chichén Itzá al suo apogeo era la maggiore potenza economica delle terre Maya settentrionali. Sfruttando le rotte marittime che circondavano la penisola dello Yucatán per mezzo del sito portuale di Isla Cerritos, la città riusciva a ottenere materie prime non disponibili localmente, come l'ossidiana dalle regioni del Messico centrale e l'oro dalle regioni del Centroamerica più a sud." (Wikipedia)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3rEB57Fs-MxrjMRvjn-rW7lXC4HYSxkWMgTLQDtULhS1q8xn2saPX5XOtfS4OINEFKrMvNxmVcTR8eZi9MRPriWIMpmnCZMA_JzfthbHCW07r3gXCDfDX23vSIj9q2BNtmJfTYHonrQJ0BIzIb-Ze2wMjrRmcsi-zqo-0Y_HzHrS5uLYtwUc1pJmwFaI/s1209/20230701_143625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3rEB57Fs-MxrjMRvjn-rW7lXC4HYSxkWMgTLQDtULhS1q8xn2saPX5XOtfS4OINEFKrMvNxmVcTR8eZi9MRPriWIMpmnCZMA_JzfthbHCW07r3gXCDfDX23vSIj9q2BNtmJfTYHonrQJ0BIzIb-Ze2wMjrRmcsi-zqo-0Y_HzHrS5uLYtwUc1pJmwFaI/s1209/20230701_143625.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3rEB57Fs-MxrjMRvjn-rW7lXC4HYSxkWMgTLQDtULhS1q8xn2saPX5XOtfS4OINEFKrMvNxmVcTR8eZi9MRPriWIMpmnCZMA_JzfthbHCW07r3gXCDfDX23vSIj9q2BNtmJfTYHonrQJ0BIzIb-Ze2wMjrRmcsi-zqo-0Y_HzHrS5uLYtwUc1pJmwFaI/s320/20230701_143625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqdcMXT8uF8kN9r_HmIFdwODuQtNxWhW81dP-iSoReuffg3wTEl7AOwkFECysTRVTEvyKNsQx9uh-Xi6L8E00A-1E8PRyc900lKa4upeJuQsZ8EiZUc8DPHENOlwEfhtetv6Y6IvFuj0gAzuAOOok4OypDyVgyi6dQRsmm_KDsKATvTdbcQaCVIi7nglE/s1209/20230701_145231.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqdcMXT8uF8kN9r_HmIFdwODuQtNxWhW81dP-iSoReuffg3wTEl7AOwkFECysTRVTEvyKNsQx9uh-Xi6L8E00A-1E8PRyc900lKa4upeJuQsZ8EiZUc8DPHENOlwEfhtetv6Y6IvFuj0gAzuAOOok4OypDyVgyi6dQRsmm_KDsKATvTdbcQaCVIi7nglE/s320/20230701_145231.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La grande città dove si veneravano divinità maya e tolteche (come Quetzalcoatl stesso) vide fondersi le due culture sia nelle conoscenze sia nelle abilità artigianali. I toltechi, popolo guerriero, portarono all'ossessione ed esaltarono il sacrificio umano, come dimostrano le cruente rappresentazioni presenti nel sito. Il declino iniziò quando un capo maya decide di spostare la capitale politica a Mayapan, mantenendo qui solo quella religiosa, tanto che rimase meta di pellegrinaggio per molto tempo anche dopo il suo abbandono (XIV secolo). Il sito è stato riscoperto dalla metà dell'800 da archeologi statunitensi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswFsSsnFommoo163agA2fGBasc6yHPNHzDDqDzeaujNeM-aLlY43wEkiuwE-x97bao31gadDnfCGRxgY7qV12vRnOeTN6CmaHEt1a3s_iWye6MZi-szMmRNAl0RpdfJGp-WLDguB6lb5Cq1iiawSHnAaqhfec_xHpDpRpW_snxBTcbBFv8HYFA0w714w/s1209/20230701_145300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswFsSsnFommoo163agA2fGBasc6yHPNHzDDqDzeaujNeM-aLlY43wEkiuwE-x97bao31gadDnfCGRxgY7qV12vRnOeTN6CmaHEt1a3s_iWye6MZi-szMmRNAl0RpdfJGp-WLDguB6lb5Cq1iiawSHnAaqhfec_xHpDpRpW_snxBTcbBFv8HYFA0w714w/s320/20230701_145300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuViLXFUGenaUqAJM0LWa6859XanhgGl-FFT113TeCrDQ1g_tXSQrUaJqrmqIWcxS3BGhJHXCGidkQto5ZTe3MoNtgYWODE3qcgsEtXY7htGSkUm39y0n28zpiXXNlFzhNj-t7sNfSwi6SjQoIbaU9q1TYF0MfIpsHE2B0iQjYRf_NKrzrNL-lkJbz0H4/s1209/20230701_150146.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuViLXFUGenaUqAJM0LWa6859XanhgGl-FFT113TeCrDQ1g_tXSQrUaJqrmqIWcxS3BGhJHXCGidkQto5ZTe3MoNtgYWODE3qcgsEtXY7htGSkUm39y0n28zpiXXNlFzhNj-t7sNfSwi6SjQoIbaU9q1TYF0MfIpsHE2B0iQjYRf_NKrzrNL-lkJbz0H4/s320/20230701_150146.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN4q-k1Jf-0YHMuonrD9iskDBh6PstKPSn26DgPDx7ouyFh_GtY187pvVoKPamWb-Ve9mtyin5Krh-La5hObUHHMY5RXhq6LY89GqL-0hzglDU81llUZC-iKUT2Ye9o0Oaq6ucXzkzANHraPis-5EQRboXa0HhtMHivlAwjERWxGru9BS80oUFoN6tsZY/s979/20230701_150704.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN4q-k1Jf-0YHMuonrD9iskDBh6PstKPSn26DgPDx7ouyFh_GtY187pvVoKPamWb-Ve9mtyin5Krh-La5hObUHHMY5RXhq6LY89GqL-0hzglDU81llUZC-iKUT2Ye9o0Oaq6ucXzkzANHraPis-5EQRboXa0HhtMHivlAwjERWxGru9BS80oUFoN6tsZY/s320/20230701_150704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOtmM0hIiIL0lxatwV0gYxjhkxN9KtkNTXOYvdNWOtm7Puj2pPhkX2jUF0zsdQNdI0kv2J50VgFyoXoUlQEUFHzBecJunIADYH5xevQWnCW1Ea5vfdHPYEUr0NO_XuOlNdAurolXDjnyXd83ybwFM9Cd6JjBLl1WY3glZd77x4lkDc5A59WXGjHppiZc/s1209/20230701_150747.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOtmM0hIiIL0lxatwV0gYxjhkxN9KtkNTXOYvdNWOtm7Puj2pPhkX2jUF0zsdQNdI0kv2J50VgFyoXoUlQEUFHzBecJunIADYH5xevQWnCW1Ea5vfdHPYEUr0NO_XuOlNdAurolXDjnyXd83ybwFM9Cd6JjBLl1WY3glZd77x4lkDc5A59WXGjHppiZc/s320/20230701_150747.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il cenote</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBttX9_L4C5UttLCQLzpsfiQE-KwnzEZKC2P5DijDnxVqw6w5AYrbC3skHbiDVU8jODACkE9zHFkNdVHB9BDXUa5xLDsxZnzu_7hPyvt-1yrDPWn_10SZ4lPGoFeEKH_pkGbsjJwBjNNu2Zf0lSA5Fmeo21mCR8x_cZO9ZpvT1gGMShEbVeG7QdAQ-iA/s1209/20230701_151538.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBttX9_L4C5UttLCQLzpsfiQE-KwnzEZKC2P5DijDnxVqw6w5AYrbC3skHbiDVU8jODACkE9zHFkNdVHB9BDXUa5xLDsxZnzu_7hPyvt-1yrDPWn_10SZ4lPGoFeEKH_pkGbsjJwBjNNu2Zf0lSA5Fmeo21mCR8x_cZO9ZpvT1gGMShEbVeG7QdAQ-iA/s320/20230701_151538.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'ossario</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I monumenti più interessanti, e qui c'è anche del giudizio personale (ma confermato da tante guide lette) sono, in primis, e grazie al Quetzalcoatl, la piramide di Kukulkan, detta, sempre con grande fantasia, El castillo. La struttura che si può vedere, con serpenti piumati e guerrieri sulle scalinate, è di epoca tolteca, ma ingloba una piramide più antica, che risale all'800 d.C. Non ci si può più salire perchè nel 2006 una donna è caduta, trasformandosi nell'ennesimo sacrificio alle divinità del luogo. La struttura altro non è che un calendario maya in pietra: 9 livelli divisi in due, 18 terrazze, come 18 erano i mesi (di 20 giorni); 4 scale di 91 gradini, per un totale di 365, come i giorni dell'anno. Ogni facciata ha 52 pannelli, come 52 erano gli anni della ruota del tempo. Negli equinozi si crea un gioco di ombre per cui pare che un serpente si snodi lungo la scalinata settentrionale. La piramide più antica contiene il cosiddetto trono del giaguaro rosso, con occhi e gocce di giada. Pare che questa matrioska di piramidi poggi su un cenote profondo 20m, cosa che potrebbe far collassare tutto da un momento all'altro.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM3ktmSxOUjp73sXJXUfedX-GrsA1w9a7160eyut2q1Yc8WtN2savFD0AWmxloaeNzC8GVTbQVj1al1elOHRsVRBqJvH1pspD5tZEaifpfDtSHXXkCj6CuHyEDxv9SnADkaNn130skf5sPTI_p9ReqXUWHiepmM2W_7ebe3B7hwAorE-4FDENwji6642M/s1209/20230701_152049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM3ktmSxOUjp73sXJXUfedX-GrsA1w9a7160eyut2q1Yc8WtN2savFD0AWmxloaeNzC8GVTbQVj1al1elOHRsVRBqJvH1pspD5tZEaifpfDtSHXXkCj6CuHyEDxv9SnADkaNn130skf5sPTI_p9ReqXUWHiepmM2W_7ebe3B7hwAorE-4FDENwji6642M/s320/20230701_152049.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQPxOzkoFIgVy_chniFFchkV1WbrtTUtg1PW2fY4PkG0S3nQQF1dkugHiSQo4VX1n7ObhQ_xktylp7EYPzSt4TElM6QaeepRZ2luj12RUPmMft9zKF6Tc2QSt456eqEpVmlD6K_6LqMDtaj1vbWc3jNBLwzB7-lGHdG1vsDxacfiYvX_jqXnMQc1VIXuM/s1209/20230701_152220.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQPxOzkoFIgVy_chniFFchkV1WbrtTUtg1PW2fY4PkG0S3nQQF1dkugHiSQo4VX1n7ObhQ_xktylp7EYPzSt4TElM6QaeepRZ2luj12RUPmMft9zKF6Tc2QSt456eqEpVmlD6K_6LqMDtaj1vbWc3jNBLwzB7-lGHdG1vsDxacfiYvX_jqXnMQc1VIXuM/s320/20230701_152220.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ancora, mi ha colpito il caracol, la chiocciola, dalla forma della scala interna all'osservatorio astronomico. Anche qui la simbologia si spreca: 4 porte rivolte ai 4 punti cardinali, decorate con maschere del dio della pioggia Chac; le finestre della cupola sono allineate con particolari costellazioni, visibili solo in alcuni periodi dell'anno. Da qui i sacerdoti stabilivano i giorni fausti e infausti per celebrazioni, rituali, semina e raccolta del mais.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Poco distante c'è un palazzo nobiliare finemente decorato, detto Edificio de las monjas perchè, con le sue molte sale, ricordava ai conquistadores un monastero. Convinti loro... Davanti c'è una pietra sacrificale tolteca.</div></div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ph1gmZMFb2RYn6_k4iGR_5RKJOp4qHrTMPYxOFoes_lsHojV2ppDL7Yxxev9YA74U8LHZF66YaXoimKpfbkIKOt6BzD1O5UZIS0ghG90DSryQVxFECxHWOE7qcQkFtckUe6qNGSNnpqQzu0sFbMyojeUV-fyRQVItfCtVsKNlTfk3eDY5Dk9wA8RqKw/s1209/20230701_152418.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ph1gmZMFb2RYn6_k4iGR_5RKJOp4qHrTMPYxOFoes_lsHojV2ppDL7Yxxev9YA74U8LHZF66YaXoimKpfbkIKOt6BzD1O5UZIS0ghG90DSryQVxFECxHWOE7qcQkFtckUe6qNGSNnpqQzu0sFbMyojeUV-fyRQVItfCtVsKNlTfk3eDY5Dk9wA8RqKw/s320/20230701_152418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC3BWA0GwGNEWnmnydY0clNUwn0GuBgXonqMVjfntQUkfNOmOZjFW1ounCFvwV0PhfqoExSFGVsRcLv1WAhiwwMZBIsLiisxod-LcWyOeN0b03EUE3nZaoJzBS3Cl3Gc5cEEH1jLZ5xggIwVvgHiSE7Uta5bR9GuZykbVi_X500iOp3VWn5eZ9EgsPxn0/s1209/20230701_152451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC3BWA0GwGNEWnmnydY0clNUwn0GuBgXonqMVjfntQUkfNOmOZjFW1ounCFvwV0PhfqoExSFGVsRcLv1WAhiwwMZBIsLiisxod-LcWyOeN0b03EUE3nZaoJzBS3Cl3Gc5cEEH1jLZ5xggIwVvgHiSE7Uta5bR9GuZykbVi_X500iOp3VWn5eZ9EgsPxn0/s320/20230701_152451.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsy0DKC1EU7_D9436haP4pYpKK4Zgx8W_tgykWoVvbGIBJSLuCO2erfGNKsAKvDvwljuszr1_jztSnwHbTUmf6X5gwV23zDbMcI08k4gYwyJolYDLn6fnpyqH0kbQiS96r6UFnL_-ccoBNvK27yD1yFeLFTh21ZjtolAWiOl7HGJlIY-lHovsVqCdSI8/s1209/20230701_152501.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsy0DKC1EU7_D9436haP4pYpKK4Zgx8W_tgykWoVvbGIBJSLuCO2erfGNKsAKvDvwljuszr1_jztSnwHbTUmf6X5gwV23zDbMcI08k4gYwyJolYDLn6fnpyqH0kbQiS96r6UFnL_-ccoBNvK27yD1yFeLFTh21ZjtolAWiOl7HGJlIY-lHovsVqCdSI8/s320/20230701_152501.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5-CNOVtfcQah8ZTCqJWxwtddDRUmq7ocsrou2-o2DLBShJV6jp_lam4jouUqoqaPJ-ieHfp-4Aw8jHovcuRyCqIuLakm4BkZ7hjvR4N5jJDckUEV_toAHIxo2gUJquhli7cbWAsm05isoUE8kR2xLccA0LxIQA-jONb8FI6MyCdmrMFQL2oeYIfaiLg/s1209/20230701_152554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg5-CNOVtfcQah8ZTCqJWxwtddDRUmq7ocsrou2-o2DLBShJV6jp_lam4jouUqoqaPJ-ieHfp-4Aw8jHovcuRyCqIuLakm4BkZ7hjvR4N5jJDckUEV_toAHIxo2gUJquhli7cbWAsm05isoUE8kR2xLccA0LxIQA-jONb8FI6MyCdmrMFQL2oeYIfaiLg/s320/20230701_152554.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1NCGUhUghEQgskwFeYEafexK8XT1UoFvONg2rjZti0qWR9-q8agBJLw7fdEGo7K1f5Lxu2XlKRkC26SIZc50lkrdcwgdA1FMplf43KejUk0dmK0OTQLHA6k5wd-y8VsLK08c6gZRYpAOWwxtXDmK026CbaGTSBzkRTONsCgsoqO5-s_LCXvKXNIzk7U/s1209/20230701_152641.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1NCGUhUghEQgskwFeYEafexK8XT1UoFvONg2rjZti0qWR9-q8agBJLw7fdEGo7K1f5Lxu2XlKRkC26SIZc50lkrdcwgdA1FMplf43KejUk0dmK0OTQLHA6k5wd-y8VsLK08c6gZRYpAOWwxtXDmK026CbaGTSBzkRTONsCgsoqO5-s_LCXvKXNIzk7U/s320/20230701_152641.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Akab dzib, "scrittura oscura", è il più antico edificio del complesso (II secolo d.C). Sulla porta c'è la raffigurazione di un sacerdote con un vaso ornato da geroglifici tuttora non decifrati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8iJo-vnIOgomD2YA8uyOJuGJRi0qbQ0_PBCWhd43MlQ0_z8rv4RNf4WDTnkJtOFkQj61dfV5DF9Itsr9iGmwP_ARzdr9rBhEIdqBWUIa4A9_GLVRSqEjN9b4iZCArgxRJmPCoFujp5j_aH9twtC9qioLPTh08yBbdCjv2bG2kKKXLkot7RHZCUK81b4/s1209/20230701_152732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8iJo-vnIOgomD2YA8uyOJuGJRi0qbQ0_PBCWhd43MlQ0_z8rv4RNf4WDTnkJtOFkQj61dfV5DF9Itsr9iGmwP_ARzdr9rBhEIdqBWUIa4A9_GLVRSqEjN9b4iZCArgxRJmPCoFujp5j_aH9twtC9qioLPTh08yBbdCjv2bG2kKKXLkot7RHZCUK81b4/s320/20230701_152732.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeQGvGujGC1nDG_wZUCjkHaRpuLkCm7Z4xypKpqjyYzWc35P3AtLnUXgCs3iSDEXn_VGLivygty2HfpHlR2iFj_JeqLlJ9QompvZkY9TDp9EBiwjHI55iAG7WzsWx9h2YR5NyMYNfVPrlHRORf3tvsIXBqBhI2XTEnW2Hs8wVj574eogTdCXJICteC6M/s1209/20230701_152828.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeQGvGujGC1nDG_wZUCjkHaRpuLkCm7Z4xypKpqjyYzWc35P3AtLnUXgCs3iSDEXn_VGLivygty2HfpHlR2iFj_JeqLlJ9QompvZkY9TDp9EBiwjHI55iAG7WzsWx9h2YR5NyMYNfVPrlHRORf3tvsIXBqBhI2XTEnW2Hs8wVj574eogTdCXJICteC6M/s320/20230701_152828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwL_uAM2TLXZlbTC31kNS5cKXzPr7mKSxDn3mnMEI3iVR34efd8klPJuV7qiJ6OxH3ade_Xqsf7vzEciXWI1usWoDsFyl4ltj5590TQVOUwTH2wmP5aXN9iDXFy09axVQWg-WuRRaWpr9mht-sfRdCn3ZetTP87_lDnjaV5pxlRmOgAyn_H4cPscOYSjE/s1209/20230701_153017.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwL_uAM2TLXZlbTC31kNS5cKXzPr7mKSxDn3mnMEI3iVR34efd8klPJuV7qiJ6OxH3ade_Xqsf7vzEciXWI1usWoDsFyl4ltj5590TQVOUwTH2wmP5aXN9iDXFy09axVQWg-WuRRaWpr9mht-sfRdCn3ZetTP87_lDnjaV5pxlRmOgAyn_H4cPscOYSjE/s320/20230701_153017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbD3_kVCJc-Cuxnvd_6QK1FaBIF68gcQY9RrefoyhsSj2OyMfv8nQMFR09JRm0SFrXHNI67Loag3Ik6-jXBdHE7oZ63zwbN-_8jATc8dCVoKJxGm9bg02YaOQJbpd3fZlT6m9-jAmXGD5MAG_HxyJ4xJE8MhiOKO0o6azWpuXuXLJ8eOSCBcCEZNkn0g/s1210/20230701_154220.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbD3_kVCJc-Cuxnvd_6QK1FaBIF68gcQY9RrefoyhsSj2OyMfv8nQMFR09JRm0SFrXHNI67Loag3Ik6-jXBdHE7oZ63zwbN-_8jATc8dCVoKJxGm9bg02YaOQJbpd3fZlT6m9-jAmXGD5MAG_HxyJ4xJE8MhiOKO0o6azWpuXuXLJ8eOSCBcCEZNkn0g/s320/20230701_154220.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ci sono poi ben 8 campi da gioco di pelota, di cui uno immenso, il più grande del Messico. Il campo è delimitato da mura e circondato da templi. Si vedono gli anelli di pietra fissati in alto, dove bisognava far passare la palla (solo con i piedi, in certe epoche, con l'ausilio di mazze, in altre) e le decorazioni che raffigurano la decapitazione dei giocatori. In periodo tolteco, infatti, chi perdeva veniva sacrificato agli dei. Questo edificio, come anche le piramidi, ha un'acustica incredibile. Non ho citato, per brevità, la piattaforma dei crani (tzompantli), il tempio dei guerrieri e il gruppo delle mille colonne, e altre strutture meno visibili ma non meno interessanti, tutte decorate ora con crani, ora con aquile, ora con giaguari e serpenti.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW65D1pOtJYePE9QDoViwlbNt1MLOaln68j9bDGt59JhhfGo6hh6s5AlYZ6ZaTHO2BxpdVN8mGStDEPp0wzswGAasGCS7cMk3UojOsOvyOIgdaCTk2x8ebWSSdaDUScIxtf9mTLBip95iMto--k3QhxVgibzz_JJzfzptIA16NJ9bnicwprfOhGD1zRns/s1209/20230701_154449.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW65D1pOtJYePE9QDoViwlbNt1MLOaln68j9bDGt59JhhfGo6hh6s5AlYZ6ZaTHO2BxpdVN8mGStDEPp0wzswGAasGCS7cMk3UojOsOvyOIgdaCTk2x8ebWSSdaDUScIxtf9mTLBip95iMto--k3QhxVgibzz_JJzfzptIA16NJ9bnicwprfOhGD1zRns/s320/20230701_154449.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Insomma, Chichen Itza è bella! L'avreste mai detto? Una meraviglia del mondo moderno che effettivamente è tale. Dopo Machu Picchu l'anno scorso, ora aggiungiamo anche questa alla lista. Esco dal sito un po' trafelata: ho camminato diversi kilometri e a passo svelto, per non lasciare Gigi da solo troppo a lungo. In più il cielo si è fatto nero di nuvoloni, con tanto di tuoni e fulmini, mentre il vento si è alzato minaccioso. Tutti gli ambulanti e i venditori di souvenir si affrettano a raccogliere le loro cosine, a imballarle in qualche modo ed è tutto un fuggi fuggi di gente carica di statuette, maschere, parafernalia vari.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Gigi si è un po' riposato ma non sta bene. Montiamo in sella e, dopo le ennesime domande dei turisti riguardo alle bici, al viaggio, al cicloturismo in senso lato, ripartiamo. Mancano solo 2km all'albergo e riusciamo a scampare il temporale, che poi risulta in quattro gocce, e ad arrivare prima che la mia gomma vada a terra e Gigi también.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheU6kX0akXtWfsLUnGgitxGrVdN8P3Mvi2k-H67ql3d8gg8RCB4NocqfgAHaTOXY5jwS3IOokSM9LihQp7Rb1uEo4sLyv_5yB-qNl7tEt_Mr2UQ4IeHtjyrPT7lSIMm1VlLkZdRgVUn2u3E3YDgYs109WPsGnGpl2wNk4n1-1Rauzb9bcv2GFdUt_gDUQ/s1209/20230701_160755.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheU6kX0akXtWfsLUnGgitxGrVdN8P3Mvi2k-H67ql3d8gg8RCB4NocqfgAHaTOXY5jwS3IOokSM9LihQp7Rb1uEo4sLyv_5yB-qNl7tEt_Mr2UQ4IeHtjyrPT7lSIMm1VlLkZdRgVUn2u3E3YDgYs109WPsGnGpl2wNk4n1-1Rauzb9bcv2GFdUt_gDUQ/s320/20230701_160755.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Sulle prime fatichiamo a trovare l'albergo, per quanto Pisté sia minuscola; infatti non è un hotel, ma è una casa, privata, anche abbastanza vecchietta e tradizionale, dove vive una famiglia che affitta alcune stanze, e persino alcuni posti letto e posti amaca. Infatti ci accolgono un bimbo che sta giocando in cortile e la abuela, con la pelle scura scura, che contrasta con i capelli e il vestito bianchi. La sciura è sguigia. Ha capito che la posizione della sua casetta può essere ben sfruttata, e affitta a un prezzo pari a quello di un hotel a 3 stelle in altro luogo, ma conveniente per la location. In ogni caso è una signora molto gentile e premurosa, e siamo contenti di dare qualcosa a lei e non a qualche catena alberghiera.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJFiPFYDcGuS0pNwAhzTNbTSk_FiNO_iLEhxrZ9O6huTN-BrkczCjIuOe7qAgowafAClI11PPp0XjE9RgEY6HK91VJEVWKeGk5K0TjyEaqAoe428-b9Wlt7lHJay63r8ukkeelw9pQ9cTqO8OGt3d9ekAoYnxlSwA8l2fRxgdCT_D_VnACPyI_lETqOc/s979/20230701_162143.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJFiPFYDcGuS0pNwAhzTNbTSk_FiNO_iLEhxrZ9O6huTN-BrkczCjIuOe7qAgowafAClI11PPp0XjE9RgEY6HK91VJEVWKeGk5K0TjyEaqAoe428-b9Wlt7lHJay63r8ukkeelw9pQ9cTqO8OGt3d9ekAoYnxlSwA8l2fRxgdCT_D_VnACPyI_lETqOc/s320/20230701_162143.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4GDHBuIzyuzr2nAFICYnKQ2bfzudr13rURP0DyIIr070ivhq9czEQQRA-sqCS5B1b9LAj16RI27PYbkwU3v6f-9j6AUAnNHOz2y1nMJVdI8lrbGMfmF1rUquj36f2xKF6S5TdeJAK-CdN0bIQtJC9sjENxDOUDpObDscemjFhPjK7Bjb1syRfu844GQ/s979/20230701_162246.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4GDHBuIzyuzr2nAFICYnKQ2bfzudr13rURP0DyIIr070ivhq9czEQQRA-sqCS5B1b9LAj16RI27PYbkwU3v6f-9j6AUAnNHOz2y1nMJVdI8lrbGMfmF1rUquj36f2xKF6S5TdeJAK-CdN0bIQtJC9sjENxDOUDpObDscemjFhPjK7Bjb1syRfu844GQ/s320/20230701_162246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2lL-LO4uO0gzDZJsLFsihPiGQJqLgtHfgH8mMh-MwWGZK0l_dofUSQ945_mgBpB1MkcJmd120-JNf1PQMfHv1klPVpNEfInNIGowgqg_gfYIPyeQrMgJBwyXPLf755AeV6NdA0roDQ0fTsUA6ov1FXYk34vGh8uztDgiYA2JSa-zX9wuquB2RqwW40s4/s1209/20230701_165145.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2lL-LO4uO0gzDZJsLFsihPiGQJqLgtHfgH8mMh-MwWGZK0l_dofUSQ945_mgBpB1MkcJmd120-JNf1PQMfHv1klPVpNEfInNIGowgqg_gfYIPyeQrMgJBwyXPLf755AeV6NdA0roDQ0fTsUA6ov1FXYk34vGh8uztDgiYA2JSa-zX9wuquB2RqwW40s4/s320/20230701_165145.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyZ0JR7WqU6T22n1Lie-ul8Fd8lX7PFMl6AW9tuY_VSXlg5kpXCgt0-LVk-7LCHCpLVuzWp302g9C6eon1mlwUygAYUSa-Gr7DAHfJMz3vSb1Qds_bd5bO9207ZxtqKIPmZnw9linO6ED8bzeTE8eQgeA4xmThLMYfDHvFVsdOgfTBEUVZw54rB3uW9c/s1209/20230701_181341.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyZ0JR7WqU6T22n1Lie-ul8Fd8lX7PFMl6AW9tuY_VSXlg5kpXCgt0-LVk-7LCHCpLVuzWp302g9C6eon1mlwUygAYUSa-Gr7DAHfJMz3vSb1Qds_bd5bO9207ZxtqKIPmZnw9linO6ED8bzeTE8eQgeA4xmThLMYfDHvFVsdOgfTBEUVZw54rB3uW9c/s320/20230701_181341.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcJCm8LnJiDVvlmHaaEiM2qcKcWJzVKeHmQath4Vs34Za2ZTG9iSAzeBZoSHHLVe-OonLhTuJz2FeqJV5Bv2Mz1F7e-2W4wSc73j221cANLRMSbYaSKtYmzXPCb8YR_WBvyiRZkZPSKVQCoRliuXZQtNiLzB1tkk8zGqhnO7AAlpDrh0O9fHiyw0s6VoE/s1209/20230701_181352.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcJCm8LnJiDVvlmHaaEiM2qcKcWJzVKeHmQath4Vs34Za2ZTG9iSAzeBZoSHHLVe-OonLhTuJz2FeqJV5Bv2Mz1F7e-2W4wSc73j221cANLRMSbYaSKtYmzXPCb8YR_WBvyiRZkZPSKVQCoRliuXZQtNiLzB1tkk8zGqhnO7AAlpDrh0O9fHiyw0s6VoE/s320/20230701_181352.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi, senza nemmeno far la doccia, si butta a letto e cade in un sonno profondo da malattia. Io mi sistemo, mi riposo un po' (fare la tappa così lentamente e con tale fatica mi ha devastata) e mi metto a trafficare con la gomma bucata. Poi si aggiunge Gigi, che nel frattempo è vagamente resuscitato, ma solo perchè è cominciata la danza del mal di panza con la quale l'infezione intestinale si manifesta in tutta la sua bruttura. Stasera optiamo per una cena fai da te con spesa al supermercato, onde evitare ulteriori salsine e verdurelle maledette da Montezuma. Poi ci piazziamo fuori dalla nostra cameretta, che è un forno del demonio, e ci godiamo il fresco della sera temporalesca. In tutto questo si aggiunge una corsa in farmacia a comprare un termometro perchè Gigi ha la febbre da monitorare e il nostro è quello comprato in Perù, la cui batteria decide di morire proprio stasera. Ma, dopo tutto, anche questa giornata si chiude e rimarrà indimenticabile.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip86c9A5vCvLjxm1NmSGFwF7AWOFt_3UL8uAAAI1ufJ1xY81eGyg12xccmp53xFG2EDaAYx8-z6xWXfPK4a_Ee-OXt4T83XcE9PnoFlxtWg7HYu51XNAblnkj98Kqt74l5mM3rxC8uMVfoKMFNm2mXg9DchO1lebsuSszdh5bZqhxX3EsAXXAmMq6PTXs/s1209/20230701_195405.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip86c9A5vCvLjxm1NmSGFwF7AWOFt_3UL8uAAAI1ufJ1xY81eGyg12xccmp53xFG2EDaAYx8-z6xWXfPK4a_Ee-OXt4T83XcE9PnoFlxtWg7HYu51XNAblnkj98Kqt74l5mM3rxC8uMVfoKMFNm2mXg9DchO1lebsuSszdh5bZqhxX3EsAXXAmMq6PTXs/s320/20230701_195405.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">2/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Pisté - Mérida</div><div style="text-align: left;">119km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mentre Gigi dormiva, esausto, io ho cercato dei modi per evitargli i 120km di tappa (impensabili), ma permettergli comunque di raggiungere Mérida, dove ho prenotato una sistemazione molto più confortevole. Inoltre Mérida è la capitale dello stato dello Yucatan e offre tutti i servizi, mentre qui dove siamo c'è a malapena una farmacia grande come un ripostiglio. Mi informo sui trasporti privati, ma poi mi torna in mente un blog letto pima di partire: un cicloviaggiatore spiegava che, per quanto formalmente non consentito, sui bus non ci sono problemi a caricare le bici. Soprattutto quelli di seconda classe, dove la regola è: basta che ci stia.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci svegliamo poco prima dell'alba, e, in un primo momento, Gigi pare miracolosamente guarito e si dice in grado di pedalare. Ma basta un'oretta di veglia per farlo ricredere e ripotarlo più volte con i piedi per terra. Seduto sulla tazza del wc, altro che trono del giaguaro di giada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La abuelita ci offre la colazione: ovetti in padella, frijoels refritos (salsa di fagioli) avocado, pomodoro e insalata, da mangiare sorseggiando un caffè lungo e nero nero. Do a Gigi le uova, prendo i fagioli (non aggiungiamo meteorismo alla situazione già stellare) e faccio anche la scarpetta. Gigi mi abbandona a metà, e sapete già dove sia corso. Faccio due parole con la signora, le lascio anche uno yogurt ancora chiuso sigillato che è rimasto da ieri (leggi: che Gigi ha comprato e io gli ho impedito di bere).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz7qzC-7yzsjveqvEeHEhQgBuK7h2LI5eQE7RI2MtaD2ZhUHVR9LZU7x2guGMy6oafjm4195h7o7194kxwFy5oAzqZJKtsRl98OTCJdodptrAb_Zr46k9U1YZuNgA8eCvNf8Km85C_rjhzx8FleU-6jys1390kXonCILe1bLRyBce1HKhOD1DLJYVwGmc/s1209/20230702_074207.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz7qzC-7yzsjveqvEeHEhQgBuK7h2LI5eQE7RI2MtaD2ZhUHVR9LZU7x2guGMy6oafjm4195h7o7194kxwFy5oAzqZJKtsRl98OTCJdodptrAb_Zr46k9U1YZuNgA8eCvNf8Km85C_rjhzx8FleU-6jys1390kXonCILe1bLRyBce1HKhOD1DLJYVwGmc/s320/20230702_074207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gigi si convince del fatto che non sia il caso di pedalare, e si rassegna alla soluzione bus. E' spaventato dal fatto che, una volta sceso al terminal, dovrà raggiungere l'hotel (comunque vicinissimo) senza che sia io a guidare. Lo sa fare benissimo, ma ha comunque dei timori. Gli spiego tutto, gli imposto già Maps. Poi pedaliamo insieme i 500m che ci separano dalla fermata. Qui gli compro un biglietto per la prima corsa della compagnia Oriente, che è di seconda classe. I taquilleros mi spiegano che non ci sono problemi a caricare la bici, alla peggio l'autista può far pagare un extra (tipo mancia, tipo estorsione). Così attendiamo il bus, che è assai in ritardo, per un'ora e mezza. Ale 10, finalmente, passa. Aiuto Gigi a ficcare armi e bagagli nella stiva e lo saluto: ci vediamo a Mérida!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZGoXRg-1nSsvpODF7ThxgaYzQA-ag8LHbM3vyx2oYWfJUZUVtcCFio8Ya5168TstRRX-6TOPodhJaqOwOldpmr6Tn9z5HyqgxIIORgUK9i6zKaK2U4mvLkvN4Ua013ksGypEXx4-nsBYMgsZXdOZ1CzWR2qJE7C0JmG8BYbF6RDaGgEZvQ7YX84Ufes/s1209/20230702_083521.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZGoXRg-1nSsvpODF7ThxgaYzQA-ag8LHbM3vyx2oYWfJUZUVtcCFio8Ya5168TstRRX-6TOPodhJaqOwOldpmr6Tn9z5HyqgxIIORgUK9i6zKaK2U4mvLkvN4Ua013ksGypEXx4-nsBYMgsZXdOZ1CzWR2qJE7C0JmG8BYbF6RDaGgEZvQ7YX84Ufes/s320/20230702_083521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiZx_Vw6qnUHuDM4deRUwflt_u7Chl-utgDF4v1myoYhimzvQS4vgrTu_DYikIoj8qknOLl0lDSXpiI-x7bH_jRrVaGQcWHMdIRXj-1agPmVhphmx4Pymvhd6v4aX5w9D3wDzfC8Tp2l7GX_J9FvuwQZFza8iCTBUqRLyyprAgNe7U2Fzefqs3bjIs8I/s1209/20230702_091245.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiZx_Vw6qnUHuDM4deRUwflt_u7Chl-utgDF4v1myoYhimzvQS4vgrTu_DYikIoj8qknOLl0lDSXpiI-x7bH_jRrVaGQcWHMdIRXj-1agPmVhphmx4Pymvhd6v4aX5w9D3wDzfC8Tp2l7GX_J9FvuwQZFza8iCTBUqRLyyprAgNe7U2Fzefqs3bjIs8I/s320/20230702_091245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ora son sola, e la strada è lunga. Faccio una sosta immediata al benzinaio, per gonfiare bene la gomma, e via! Ad affrontare le strade dello Yucatan. I primi 40km scorrono veloci. La strada è a gobbette, con dei minuscoli saliscendi che, vedendoli uno in fila all'altro, sembrano disegnati o frutto di abuso di peyote. Ai lati, selva bassa. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Passo i pueblos maya di Yokdzonot, con il suo cenote azzurrissimo e balneabile, Libre Union, nato dai lavoratori di un rancho, e ora ancora assopito nella pigra mattinata di una rovente domenica di luglio. Holcà, il luogo del miele e Kantunil, "pietraia rossa". Sono tutti paesini ben messi, decorosi, con le loro case e i loro edifici pubblici, i parchi e i campetti, la chiesa, i ristorantini. Non fosse che ogni locale ha delle fettazze di carne di vario taglio appese fuori come panni stesi, in direzione della strada, ad affumicarsi con i gas di scarico dei mototaxi...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Faccio una sosta al km 40 e sarà l'unica prima di arrivare a Mérida (km 105). Grande errore di valutazione! Non tengo in conto il fatto che molti paesini che sulla mappa sembrano affacciare alla strada, sono invece immersi nella foresta e raggiungerli costa una deviazione su sterrato di parecchi kilometri. In ogni caso, dicevo, faccio una prima sosta e mi rifornisco di acqua. Resto un attimo a sbollire all'ombre, insieme a un perrito, a delle cipolle che abbruscano sulla griglia e un pollo in sacchetto di plastica, anch'esso sulla griglia, pronto a condirsi di tossine, microplastiche e cancro.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGN7Q_Trs2DQo31aWtC6sFSNah1W66AkZAJYQhW4ETBWx2jnloBv9tQly20leXnczcCZqgz12PVXYjIBRFlrIrT4bvlAmvalrqNH_dWbg-Y2ihCFL0JrHIT6FTNz2LUy6POdQm0tSTbBUO2_Xq7eqpRSdv7WDnSdR4T61QoPGgvjeez2vaBhEgsoGG3ho/s1209/20230702_113911.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGN7Q_Trs2DQo31aWtC6sFSNah1W66AkZAJYQhW4ETBWx2jnloBv9tQly20leXnczcCZqgz12PVXYjIBRFlrIrT4bvlAmvalrqNH_dWbg-Y2ihCFL0JrHIT6FTNz2LUy6POdQm0tSTbBUO2_Xq7eqpRSdv7WDnSdR4T61QoPGgvjeez2vaBhEgsoGG3ho/s320/20230702_113911.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaHQTDEn2f52Hh83FysH-tbVMmci9nvTGhOiamXO3qjN0JBhb6kaTqWF_puL-whEXjywqoRPh6Uw4hcat00JoWijTLYim49k-e3kcfQfcGhQDHlDTroJaOF-St_X00R62Ber3JnuUoft4EB4PQc3LZI1lQHwhxQo_VgrwOwZOG0QX85PGSO-baO4OrtA/s1209/20230702_113914.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaHQTDEn2f52Hh83FysH-tbVMmci9nvTGhOiamXO3qjN0JBhb6kaTqWF_puL-whEXjywqoRPh6Uw4hcat00JoWijTLYim49k-e3kcfQfcGhQDHlDTroJaOF-St_X00R62Ber3JnuUoft4EB4PQc3LZI1lQHwhxQo_VgrwOwZOG0QX85PGSO-baO4OrtA/s320/20230702_113914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhg3fbDcMHUsOEb0tQkULa3nVPuKbcDnzkgZpGuU84bgE5HYNY9NUPzXM2BJQmpCGrrIXto7sJoOljIyVMTvxMh65VEiQLykDB-i1W_8lYBNTUc6fEnfzt5PLF_06fuLX88AZLJnCoEGLnJ6jGkPXcVURU5PZUTpehNRZ9PQ-8I2Id-cbkxnvRXUMJ5Hs/s1209/20230702_113930.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhg3fbDcMHUsOEb0tQkULa3nVPuKbcDnzkgZpGuU84bgE5HYNY9NUPzXM2BJQmpCGrrIXto7sJoOljIyVMTvxMh65VEiQLykDB-i1W_8lYBNTUc6fEnfzt5PLF_06fuLX88AZLJnCoEGLnJ6jGkPXcVURU5PZUTpehNRZ9PQ-8I2Id-cbkxnvRXUMJ5Hs/s320/20230702_113930.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOS3NVqrGtBexJkuRueBib7aVrSjM6wjqZt95XSLmvJrh0hP5vZMowjT9pl03bav2-iIInYoOTRHZV81Jtvjr_NaK1uhm_IeASOG_9zgBurpmfHWRorx7mxiZBl66TYTbITgsNoKFUK8ZaTHFibjOMe-1V3k6UB5Ze0U0ihBUtakNGWuz_UeXqQHPFTlQ/s1209/20230702_113938.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOS3NVqrGtBexJkuRueBib7aVrSjM6wjqZt95XSLmvJrh0hP5vZMowjT9pl03bav2-iIInYoOTRHZV81Jtvjr_NaK1uhm_IeASOG_9zgBurpmfHWRorx7mxiZBl66TYTbITgsNoKFUK8ZaTHFibjOMe-1V3k6UB5Ze0U0ihBUtakNGWuz_UeXqQHPFTlQ/s320/20230702_113938.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTya1Qeya6dxM73q1vmBG2DC6lTRQaho5OOc_wgb6aQVjcbBFccXCoc8J40M6SWMi3EmBFFiAkZHjtoOl175nalOKsfY6niNIZSlA3iUNF9kPAWsil34ViD0r0Fd5Tg4OEinJLkJmLbBSWNeStmK-b2Tk9gpemCz2fFc8yhTFAlQGbkvdhMd3jqWnHswQ/s989/20230702_114345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTya1Qeya6dxM73q1vmBG2DC6lTRQaho5OOc_wgb6aQVjcbBFccXCoc8J40M6SWMi3EmBFFiAkZHjtoOl175nalOKsfY6niNIZSlA3iUNF9kPAWsil34ViD0r0Fd5Tg4OEinJLkJmLbBSWNeStmK-b2Tk9gpemCz2fFc8yhTFAlQGbkvdhMd3jqWnHswQ/s320/20230702_114345.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKlHCst_ovH1byo2CWcUPhM_2-dg6ozSNiT7ZmoRl3mjK8AFJAjr-2w2QEF0RHlutb3SV_VUMIMGW4zZ5vQLqy8enalL5n5W58Nb_nN8GRQeZdet416FNDGRYgIed-ZxfCIRfIFzkidsjiz8k-fuyf3FylDA6A2SugPq4mDt97LdasjLgPXDnayOxAoM/s1209/20230702_114651.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKlHCst_ovH1byo2CWcUPhM_2-dg6ozSNiT7ZmoRl3mjK8AFJAjr-2w2QEF0RHlutb3SV_VUMIMGW4zZ5vQLqy8enalL5n5W58Nb_nN8GRQeZdet416FNDGRYgIed-ZxfCIRfIFzkidsjiz8k-fuyf3FylDA6A2SugPq4mDt97LdasjLgPXDnayOxAoM/s320/20230702_114651.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPadhvg_2LhybDoTVWouTHtqETh0P1bi7RNA_guRDl6drLPvaJvo_gM5wmaRgGMzSipgbCDP99f25mFXEumcBg4ksQ0CuEAbL2y3-EZ4Zf029BN7Szu1qVhlZvq3mr_aJgmZFVv9Yom9T5I2G2_jrR2bWo20L8HSfvrbGNURx50xqxR96cTX5-NQWRmvc/s1209/20230702_114703.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPadhvg_2LhybDoTVWouTHtqETh0P1bi7RNA_guRDl6drLPvaJvo_gM5wmaRgGMzSipgbCDP99f25mFXEumcBg4ksQ0CuEAbL2y3-EZ4Zf029BN7Szu1qVhlZvq3mr_aJgmZFVv9Yom9T5I2G2_jrR2bWo20L8HSfvrbGNURx50xqxR96cTX5-NQWRmvc/s320/20230702_114703.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Torno in sella dopo aver sentito Gigi, che è ancora sul bus, e pedalo ininterrottamente per i successivi 65km, vale a dire 3 ore abbondanti. Direte voi: mica è niente di che. Certo. Vero. a casa, in clima temperato, è una sciocchezza. Ma oggi qui, in quelle ore centrali nelle quali ho pedalato, ha sfiorato i 40 gradi, con l'umidità, l'aia ferma e stagnante e il sole tropicale che mi ha bruciata nonostante il multistrato di crema solare 50+.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Le gambe vanno, ma dopo un po' mi accorgo che la vista è annebbiata e il cervello lenticchio come il legume. E delle stesse dimensioni, e secco del pari. Inoltre l'acqua nelle borracce è brodo, piscio, tè senza tè. Nè me. Tocco il casco: scotta. Idem la maglia, sulla schiena, e le parti della bici esposte al sole. E' tutto rovente! Spero di non bucare: i copertoni diventano morbidi, con queste temperature. Più tardi, in hotel, quando aprirò le borse, troverò tutti i vestiti come appena usciti dall'asciugatrice. Caldissimi, nonostante l'infogno nel profondo delle borse. Ad aumentare la sensazione di danno cerebrale imminente c'è la strada, che, dopo i paesi, si riunifica con l'autostrada cuota e diventa un unico stradone a 3 corsie, lungo, piatto, dritto, sempre identico, senza un filo d'ombra mai, senza una baracchetta a bordo strada. Luce, asfalto, selva. Fine.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dYhFIXCSRjaZtmvhbBjqblKflbgmc7SQIefKjTTE8zluJ8cC38i5KAUCY1ca_QMCxmdcA4xn7GyoFRmmLMQu2TQqZ0DZ6TOb7bHkpPPN7aaAAU1XPbIj6PCmB0LYhfD4ShWTJBwexqFwlYBzz-Ix1eVcL3fjZWr2ZItLYSPig4pAR1KP16INK9baHiw/s1209/20230702_115821.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dYhFIXCSRjaZtmvhbBjqblKflbgmc7SQIefKjTTE8zluJ8cC38i5KAUCY1ca_QMCxmdcA4xn7GyoFRmmLMQu2TQqZ0DZ6TOb7bHkpPPN7aaAAU1XPbIj6PCmB0LYhfD4ShWTJBwexqFwlYBzz-Ix1eVcL3fjZWr2ZItLYSPig4pAR1KP16INK9baHiw/s320/20230702_115821.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1gTOmTZ6JqDBJlNi47Eoreo5hFDFrpvjOYZjkGU1Fj0AEnZNkrzQTqHMX_ywyBU_mjSigOAdmJgnS8s9oQFrxui5QlByEhCB-jjflUixVZTiX1fR-pCJZ1FHvKNCDzC7CFsqovl69qxXx7l6ORPn5AuIPc4BwQq3jXgGYcQFssjk0TBAEk3Gjvl1-Fc/s1209/20230702_115830.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1gTOmTZ6JqDBJlNi47Eoreo5hFDFrpvjOYZjkGU1Fj0AEnZNkrzQTqHMX_ywyBU_mjSigOAdmJgnS8s9oQFrxui5QlByEhCB-jjflUixVZTiX1fR-pCJZ1FHvKNCDzC7CFsqovl69qxXx7l6ORPn5AuIPc4BwQq3jXgGYcQFssjk0TBAEk3Gjvl1-Fc/s320/20230702_115830.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDMXPwF4rrDNp5uVTHzIzSfLILLGQu7b70kxXDvgRRxy4MF99e8rbTcEoMLevhV9phOpprRcQ7LuLsdU1h8ffxLx5X-sxsd8BOFYllA3DseTjPueHACVQln80U3CR8JdxU7yGJqrphi-9Ojt7dr1RbU5MOnFXd_tFqLPC5Q-Ll2nQzB3LT0uwHDOPGic/s1209/20230702_115920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDMXPwF4rrDNp5uVTHzIzSfLILLGQu7b70kxXDvgRRxy4MF99e8rbTcEoMLevhV9phOpprRcQ7LuLsdU1h8ffxLx5X-sxsd8BOFYllA3DseTjPueHACVQln80U3CR8JdxU7yGJqrphi-9Ojt7dr1RbU5MOnFXd_tFqLPC5Q-Ll2nQzB3LT0uwHDOPGic/s320/20230702_115920.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLs_np4hA7L42dlZVrjHsaluqDLIyZfDeiK2N3mjl1AGUe53Pj3OjQk4-sbFS6_OMHywY5AkUrgxGS-osJLLkWdqkVmpNYN2sbZ6Ch9DP--9cdKoSCx6neJW20I32exD1KcwFncZkMG6U2zum8cOrOSosTkuH3g1tpYCGfMILI-1HX0lnow44CArxK0N8/s1209/20230702_135422.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLs_np4hA7L42dlZVrjHsaluqDLIyZfDeiK2N3mjl1AGUe53Pj3OjQk4-sbFS6_OMHywY5AkUrgxGS-osJLLkWdqkVmpNYN2sbZ6Ch9DP--9cdKoSCx6neJW20I32exD1KcwFncZkMG6U2zum8cOrOSosTkuH3g1tpYCGfMILI-1HX0lnow44CArxK0N8/s320/20230702_135422.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6mFoHjN2Wlm1PPitAGa9MMHxP9v9Gy441f_sMEu8Tc4eyU9Uhb8cxF5pRU6FawILFqJqyTxjf1vCbIqBxVcBjTL5SMjU4cCsx3V2mbq865EeX57n_1fW_D7Au6DFzt-wSYIIxSxsg_B0PLpNP1MQlI6RMYiAFN-UQImCKESO_FdbJK3hwfDi7kb27lRg/s1209/20230702_135553.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6mFoHjN2Wlm1PPitAGa9MMHxP9v9Gy441f_sMEu8Tc4eyU9Uhb8cxF5pRU6FawILFqJqyTxjf1vCbIqBxVcBjTL5SMjU4cCsx3V2mbq865EeX57n_1fW_D7Au6DFzt-wSYIIxSxsg_B0PLpNP1MQlI6RMYiAFN-UQImCKESO_FdbJK3hwfDi7kb27lRg/s320/20230702_135553.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOkkHotr2u4gfH-eP3QFIMfxvSn-HAVQdLSThO0_8q1fKVVqpzchIjXTXYQ0Aqsfkw5fr4u2ktjgHGMHICZpU6ONRILl00r9qROXEDk2ze6nsLCmustxz_8i7iCiYMGxKolxq26-xgO8xIisvwUQuq-I88EFbC43CAoPfcSve2QUTjCJXniF7714FCrs/s1209/20230702_140536.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOkkHotr2u4gfH-eP3QFIMfxvSn-HAVQdLSThO0_8q1fKVVqpzchIjXTXYQ0Aqsfkw5fr4u2ktjgHGMHICZpU6ONRILl00r9qROXEDk2ze6nsLCmustxz_8i7iCiYMGxKolxq26-xgO8xIisvwUQuq-I88EFbC43CAoPfcSve2QUTjCJXniF7714FCrs/s320/20230702_140536.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci sono cartelli che indicano fattorie o allevamenti, ma l'idea di allungare ulteriormente la strada mi disgusta. Allora tiro dritto, e dritto. e dritto, finchè arrivo a Mérida. Ricevo diversi segnali di incitamento dalle auto e dai camion. Sclacsonate simpatiche, gente che mi grida: "Bravo! Bravo!" e persino un camionista fermo in uno spiazzo che si affaccia e mi fa segno, con due birre in mano, di fermarmi a bere con lui. Ringrazio di cuore, ma una birra adesso potrebbe essermi fatale, ancorchè fresca. Merida mi accoglie con i suoi cantieri aperti, che rendono le strade scassate e strette, e un tappetto di cani morti schiacciati dalle auto. Alcuni freschi, alcuni gonfi come zampogne, altri ridotti in poltiglia, altri in poltiglia ormai essiccata, che diventa una macchia scura sull'asfalto, con ossa e denti qua e là. La puzza di carogna è atroce. E' atroce pure come trattano qui gli animali. Sto vedendo scene che preferisco non raccontare, perchè non voglio mi si fissino nella memoria. Ma sono da spaccare il cuore. Perchè son gratuite. Non c'è uno scopo. Usare violenza o voler bene sono due moti d'animo gratuiti, non serve esser ricchi, o aver studiato. Danno la misura di quella che definirei inciviltà. Pensare che disporre della forza sul più debole autorizzi ad utilizzarla, per il solo fatto di poterlo fare. E' la storia del Grigio, l'asino della novella Rosso Malpelo. Tutto dà la misura dell'orizzonte di senso, affettivo ed emotivo, di chi le prende sempre, spesso gratis, e appena può ne dà.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il punto più alto del mio ingresso a Mérida resta comunque, senza dubbio, Mateo. Ha 8 anni e lo incontro mentre aspetta sua mamma, nel supermercatino di un benzinaio, in custodia all'amica della madre che lavora lì. E' seduto all'unico tavolino, su una delle due sedie. Io sto per stramazzare al suolo dal coccolone di caldo e gli chiedo se posso sedermi a bere con lui. Lui alza lo sguardo dal tablet dove sta guardando i cartoni e, come un principino, mi dice: certo, non è occupato quel posto, accomodati pure. Lui si sta annoiando e ha voglia di chiacchierare. Io, pu avendo il cervello annebbiato, gli vado dietro. Prima mi parla della scuola, del fatto che sta studiando che c'erano dinosauri piccolissimi e altri che mangiavano solo banane. Poi mi fa vedere tutti i suoi giochi, soprattutto degli aggeggi per riempire d'acqua una ventina di palloncini simultaneamente. Lui vuol fare lo splendido e cerca di gonfiali soffiando, ma non riesce allora mi spiega che ha un po' di tosse e ora non ce la fa. Mi regala un palloncino rosa precedentemente gonfiato. "E' da femmina". Poi mi fa vedere una cavalletta e disserta a lungo sugli insetti che saltano. Poi mi chiede delle cose da bambino gentile, tipo: nome, anni, cibo preferito, colore preferito, quanti anni avessi nel 2007. "Non ti capisco tanto bene", chiosa. Mi scuso. Mi sento una cacca e penso che, oltre al mio spagnolo zoppo, l'ictus è realtà. Poi si prende una minipizza, se la fa scaldare nel grill dall'amica di mamma, e ne mangia prima le fettine di salame, staccandole con i ditini. Mi dice che è uno youtuber, ha 200 iscritti al suo canale. Io devo andare, mi sono ripresa e mancano solo 10km. Lo ringrazio, lo saluto, gli chiedo una foto. Mi alzo. "Non dimenticare il tuo palloncino!". Certo che no. Ciao Mateo!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCqugHmSEdCbiOBan-SvfiAJpYGWOW5sqmiBWSQ4jwNHT4BMlWzp4C3oIRttoz2CDHfM_npvuc1RP-bg-ojg3T0C6nJeNtotq2gqtzRM3FMfv4wOVIW-kWmQ5Pfh845hcPEhIolI__PEdACdZfLOPvMdC76qejZ9F-Ydg34Q8SYpSCz9Hv1VXX18f08w/s989/20230702_151941.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCqugHmSEdCbiOBan-SvfiAJpYGWOW5sqmiBWSQ4jwNHT4BMlWzp4C3oIRttoz2CDHfM_npvuc1RP-bg-ojg3T0C6nJeNtotq2gqtzRM3FMfv4wOVIW-kWmQ5Pfh845hcPEhIolI__PEdACdZfLOPvMdC76qejZ9F-Ydg34Q8SYpSCz9Hv1VXX18f08w/s320/20230702_151941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Raggiungo il centro della città, dove si trova l'hotel, e mi rendo conto che le periferie son belle veraci anche qui, ma più ci si avvicina ai quartieri bene, più l'aspetto delle strade e degli edifici cambia, e drasticamente. Arrivo sotto una leggera pioggerella e un vento feroce. Il tempo di entrare e si scatena un quasi uragano, che prosegue per ore allagando completamente le strade e facendo saltare la corrente in diversi quartieri, compreso il nostro.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWCx4_r26cILvB6ZwLzspJJS5ykuwuicqdSMJl6J3hrfVakk-oCKn_CHLtf6R_GaP4W4-9Ea_H-4Vl4zoXziRvFD9REQ_JRuULdkBRV4CPK-TASaEcI2TBgX0Y7ryPUIxgZU_YUCzpUo8l8BOK2MMOj2S8SXp3PofJ_mekAaABTDEC3OoXyMJtppHLMc/s1209/20230702_170257.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWCx4_r26cILvB6ZwLzspJJS5ykuwuicqdSMJl6J3hrfVakk-oCKn_CHLtf6R_GaP4W4-9Ea_H-4Vl4zoXziRvFD9REQ_JRuULdkBRV4CPK-TASaEcI2TBgX0Y7ryPUIxgZU_YUCzpUo8l8BOK2MMOj2S8SXp3PofJ_mekAaABTDEC3OoXyMJtppHLMc/s320/20230702_170257.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-O7G5KdDzxznacAGJUJchtIfV7-9-y5fY2u3uw77e83HKevzlXeYe2rdim5j5jFT6AQXemZjqjGBw6zrU0gXy1GDoTQYgYwh8wbkqHL4Fh1tBOmhvkj7LBL18SaIGHM-qXmX3uHdSdPS-HHQ_8cIvH11wFWzpACJmRqdOik6r6iSTev7dQbNlSrNRcFU/s1209/20230702_170258.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-O7G5KdDzxznacAGJUJchtIfV7-9-y5fY2u3uw77e83HKevzlXeYe2rdim5j5jFT6AQXemZjqjGBw6zrU0gXy1GDoTQYgYwh8wbkqHL4Fh1tBOmhvkj7LBL18SaIGHM-qXmX3uHdSdPS-HHQ_8cIvH11wFWzpACJmRqdOik6r6iSTev7dQbNlSrNRcFU/s320/20230702_170258.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9eay9bQLYxo79A9QuLShWCdl3GE8Iwqw6chVApxN-FE6JDk2sOvDb5GpC5KnSjbm2VJbjOVlCS3usmsfXqHgwTknzdipfiAnm538Ns59m1v_AMWqElU1zTnAgP2p2gCFB_76zgI-cWZnFDMU9Jnt3k2hvaPDhROYgtlxzMyduvTO3ymWe9nbl_Y8J3M/s1209/20230702_170451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9eay9bQLYxo79A9QuLShWCdl3GE8Iwqw6chVApxN-FE6JDk2sOvDb5GpC5KnSjbm2VJbjOVlCS3usmsfXqHgwTknzdipfiAnm538Ns59m1v_AMWqElU1zTnAgP2p2gCFB_76zgI-cWZnFDMU9Jnt3k2hvaPDhROYgtlxzMyduvTO3ymWe9nbl_Y8J3M/s320/20230702_170451.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tra la piscina, un gatto magro (questo hotel ne è pieno) e uno scivolone sulle piastrelle bagnate, ritrovo Gigi, che sta un po' meglio ma deve iniziare a prender qualcosa perchè febbre e cagotto persistono. Doccia, riposino, uragano, blackout. Intorno alle 20 prendo la situazione in mano e decido di uscire comunque a comprar qualcosa da mangiare per entrambi. Mi aggiro per le vie completamente buie, con l'acqua alle caviglie, ed è un'acqua caldiccia e puzzolente, frutto anche del rigurgito dei tombini, in cui galleggia di tutto. Molti negozi han chiuso prima dell'orario previsto. Non c'è un'anima in giro, le strade sono spettrali. Devo camminare a lungo prima di trovare qualcosa di aperto, una luce accesa. Per fortuna fa caldo e, nonostante sia fradicia, quasi non me ne accorgo: di solito si è così conciati, ma di sudore.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tornando incrocio diverse squadre di operai, in cerata e con lucine segnaletiche addosso, a lavorare per ripristinare la corrente e rimuovere dalla strada rami e alberi caduti; ogni poco si sente un tonfo, uno scoppio. E' uno scenario post apocalittico! Per fortuna in breve riprendo la via dell'hotel e torno in camera sana e salva e con tanto di cacciagione: tonno, tortillas, frutta, marmellata... Insomma, il necessario per una cenetta da sciuri! La sera passa a lume non di candela ma di lucine della bici. Gigi cade presto in un sonno agitato... Speriamo che domani stia meglio! La giornata di sosta a Mérida casca a fagiolo più che mai.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWY1PzPrvdVqKo9rIedV9DZ0locYt-L2TRXVqX_AW1Hoa37Khk-UbwKKSmMuBtYZOkwI80fJKFUhQbEAPrZkiVeEnKSWgBsw7aoohZxx4o2lzArsAAs1zx3YbbsfdI3uMgk7JdnVfebk0N9a7Is-NTFrNCEhnrQ0twwL_h3ZnanrZRi2tQrxLV2MHwWY/s1209/20230702_205127.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWY1PzPrvdVqKo9rIedV9DZ0locYt-L2TRXVqX_AW1Hoa37Khk-UbwKKSmMuBtYZOkwI80fJKFUhQbEAPrZkiVeEnKSWgBsw7aoohZxx4o2lzArsAAs1zx3YbbsfdI3uMgk7JdnVfebk0N9a7Is-NTFrNCEhnrQ0twwL_h3ZnanrZRi2tQrxLV2MHwWY/s320/20230702_205127.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">feminicidios - Somos el grito de las que ya no estan. In Messico ogni giorno vengono uccise 11 donne, e poco si fa, persino, per cercarne i resti. Da ciò è nato un movimento femminista di protesta sempre più esteso e forte. Un inno: la Cancion sin miedo. Ascoltala <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq98DO-ics8&t=9s" target="_blank">qui</a>.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">3/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Mérida</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Oggi non pedaliamo: Gigi deve riposare e la capitale dello stato dello Yucatan ha tanto da offrire a chi la visita. Purtroppo molti musei sono chiusi perchè è lunedì, ma poco male. Quello che più mi interessa, il Gran museo del mundo maya, è aperto e ci aspetta. Le prime ore della mattina trascorrono in operazioni di noia mortale, in contatto con casa: la dichiarazione dei redditi da inviare, lo Spid da sbloccare, e altre menate che, per fortuna, gestisco solo in minima parte, con gran supporto della famiglia. Fosse per me, mi darei alla macchia, finirei in carcere o mi aggregherei agli zapatisti, cosa che non è detto non succeda davvero.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Poi, finalmente, concluse queste pratiche di morte, usciamo. Portiamo con noi il carico di vestiti luridi di quasi due settimane, perchè qui a Mérida ci sono le lavanderie a gettoni, o laundromat, cosa assai rara nei paesini.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Attraversiamo alcune vie centrali della città, che si riconferma un bel mischione tra edifici di gran lusso, anche esteticamente curati, ed altri fatiscenti, scrostati, decrepiti. Angoli tirati a lucido e ordinatissimi e quartieri caotici e lercetti. Ma senza che ciò corrisponda alla distinzione tra centro e periferia. Ogni zona ha entrambe le anime, che si compenetrano. In ogni caso si respira un'aria tranquilla e piacevole. Il caldo è già feroce, ma grazie ai portici e ai balconi si riesce a camminare spesso all'ombra.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8VOfE5tQo1hrVynLizFTki50JwCA8NZxYJegK38-dWROa5HSMQF1wt5Hk5srZGhz-RbQof9Evnc6VxOklgi-a7_jLu5_78dCGl4LTaVKeaYK35E8O6_1Vm0cNpx7EMwNBzCw-nxcXDJatvrN6QygoNCQFvJsPKqYFlC1ufSuC4LJyWcyc35jCjpd9bb8/s1209/20230703_100326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8VOfE5tQo1hrVynLizFTki50JwCA8NZxYJegK38-dWROa5HSMQF1wt5Hk5srZGhz-RbQof9Evnc6VxOklgi-a7_jLu5_78dCGl4LTaVKeaYK35E8O6_1Vm0cNpx7EMwNBzCw-nxcXDJatvrN6QygoNCQFvJsPKqYFlC1ufSuC4LJyWcyc35jCjpd9bb8/s320/20230703_100326.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'università</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QK2q0goiMRKN42GmgMaWf6BrX4dKggoQo3kI0QfC6EXqQTf2Nqbm_BRdVTROCxiCFI77gsQt9jJD3R5a-0f68XgLlwVzVORoCjnHwiTI1gs1DNKBjFDeniwS3K-IjFc4ubOAWjI8UTjPiF8Mz4wX7YwoBNHZfOI7CdEhleJ7Z_dDLuu7UWQzoDZ6XOg/s979/20230703_100351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0QK2q0goiMRKN42GmgMaWf6BrX4dKggoQo3kI0QfC6EXqQTf2Nqbm_BRdVTROCxiCFI77gsQt9jJD3R5a-0f68XgLlwVzVORoCjnHwiTI1gs1DNKBjFDeniwS3K-IjFc4ubOAWjI8UTjPiF8Mz4wX7YwoBNHZfOI7CdEhleJ7Z_dDLuu7UWQzoDZ6XOg/s320/20230703_100351.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La città pota evidenti tracce della sua fondazione spagnola. Nel 1540 Francisco de Montejo il giovane fondò la colonia di Campeche, e, approfittando delle inimicizie tra città maya, nel 1542 riuscì a conquistare questo luogo, dove sorgeva una città già semi abbandonata, T'ho. Le strutture di pietra e calce ricordano ai conquistadores la città romana di Mérida, in Spagna, onde il nome. Templi ed edifici furono abbattuti e le pietre usate per costruire la cattedrale e i palazzi. Durante il periodo coloniale lo Yucatan riceveva ordini direttamente dalla Spagna, e non da Città del Messico, cosa che ha dato un'identità culturale autonoma alla regione e alla sua capitale. Durante la guerra delle caste solo Mérida e Campeche riuscirono a opporre resistenza alle forze ribelli, grazie all'aiuto di rinforzi inviati dal Messico centrale, in cambio della disponibilità a passare sotto al controllo di Città del Messico</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrOfR8YCQCwV-n-6eyiepBznEaXuCRrGhyyWzxD5d0s6B24_pv58CMgq6cdA71V41YJ1CApnMdDLdt1RFxORGuxlQGng3JW6TIcUHrhW2iboAozUxovWEBqzgJCU3XXSfl9lZa0I7s7V-Qfc0_l6HiGisjJRRF7gFVez0I5y5Sf2__WsUbh0WS0ZRHOk/s1209/20230703_100629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrOfR8YCQCwV-n-6eyiepBznEaXuCRrGhyyWzxD5d0s6B24_pv58CMgq6cdA71V41YJ1CApnMdDLdt1RFxORGuxlQGng3JW6TIcUHrhW2iboAozUxovWEBqzgJCU3XXSfl9lZa0I7s7V-Qfc0_l6HiGisjJRRF7gFVez0I5y5Sf2__WsUbh0WS0ZRHOk/s320/20230703_100629.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">spesso le facciate scrostate dei palazzi nascono cotili interni meravigliosi</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_ImOXjxuP9UXljreTaXRE2gEEDgKQk2k04-MW5mLBiI7YEQI4Q0brbXXTl7LdwwKEH3UM4vhyVsvqHKBfe2lDU7wp3khAgg8nba12o8hCMbFz3luzY78L-lqoRPpqV9UCACmNwBG0-LeKRHMuLFBo8wHhjQly4_5SnbaD1hdcFs8nQJ6BtfHEsiYKRc/s1209/20230703_101418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_ImOXjxuP9UXljreTaXRE2gEEDgKQk2k04-MW5mLBiI7YEQI4Q0brbXXTl7LdwwKEH3UM4vhyVsvqHKBfe2lDU7wp3khAgg8nba12o8hCMbFz3luzY78L-lqoRPpqV9UCACmNwBG0-LeKRHMuLFBo8wHhjQly4_5SnbaD1hdcFs8nQJ6BtfHEsiYKRc/s320/20230703_101418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMiEWaGeU-7fxY7h5RMn6heLh0BAVce9WoSrg6lvuWeRi0kO5nfXlwrjgX8VQt7Stsd79oeKamg5WK3p1x2iTWoUKP7MegP1dBYiKqRGkltqhBD05QBUpn1Xxae-9aeUabSre00_6YCo7CryiEgrfkwr_lsnI6zznMn-nPCNKnWB0SYSpX4sEt1QtUEA/s1209/20230703_101453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMiEWaGeU-7fxY7h5RMn6heLh0BAVce9WoSrg6lvuWeRi0kO5nfXlwrjgX8VQt7Stsd79oeKamg5WK3p1x2iTWoUKP7MegP1dBYiKqRGkltqhBD05QBUpn1Xxae-9aeUabSre00_6YCo7CryiEgrfkwr_lsnI6zznMn-nPCNKnWB0SYSpX4sEt1QtUEA/s320/20230703_101453.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oggi Mérida è il centro commerciale più importante della penisola, anche grazie ai maquiladoras, industrie di proprietà straniera aperte negli anni '80 e '90, e al turismo. Per questo ci sono ampie comunità di immigrati. E' anche il centro culturale più vivace dello stato, sia per la presenza di scuole, università e musei, sia perchè ogni sera o quasi i quartieri sono animati da musica, feste, danze ed esibizioni tradizionali. Numerosi sono anche i festival, tra cui quello de las aves Toh, che culmina con una gara di conta degli uccelli. Non chiedetemi altro. Questi maya sanno come divertirsi!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La prima tappa è al Parque de Santiago, con omonima chiesa, semplicemente perchè qui si trova la lavanderia prescelta. Mentre aspettiamo che i nostri quatto stracci tornino presentabili, facciamo un giro nel parco, dove i piccioni diarrotici glassano Gigi dalla testa ai piedi di una sostanza semiliquida e verde pistacchio (merda chiama merda, a quanto pare).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ZS8p-DTr1jUS4UR5isx5PX1NBwIRQmXwzlxSz9VRRIxdMZw2rPnMMBYmTub_Nde-n0kKFmcrDBIrr_RoIZGrKgYJxdiJsR07EA7RCNk4miQfjhkcIRUH9IbqSEZPC2ZXorMAXcxjP6hyxWG7PlvibmuS_RUlxDN4vJOgmQExXwqPw4dr11VvA9vt8XQ/s1209/20230703_102022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ZS8p-DTr1jUS4UR5isx5PX1NBwIRQmXwzlxSz9VRRIxdMZw2rPnMMBYmTub_Nde-n0kKFmcrDBIrr_RoIZGrKgYJxdiJsR07EA7RCNk4miQfjhkcIRUH9IbqSEZPC2ZXorMAXcxjP6hyxWG7PlvibmuS_RUlxDN4vJOgmQExXwqPw4dr11VvA9vt8XQ/s320/20230703_102022.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1nbT8VLPC7mN7-e9I-IpKbCgP3KXZmwgHO5zmFdS6_xXxsuCiy6JXanxV3ILyTxaMLdL2mqWkKqpgHmb1DkEd1XqJLwqKcbqyLYgXjVFuC_LexrDBGYfS5rvXZ08WX48CnSsNRNfYZjQJTZHFweuVv9N2g1BJgAsSnk0azcG78GEPPzPPQ78KBdOlmk/s1209/20230703_103107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1nbT8VLPC7mN7-e9I-IpKbCgP3KXZmwgHO5zmFdS6_xXxsuCiy6JXanxV3ILyTxaMLdL2mqWkKqpgHmb1DkEd1XqJLwqKcbqyLYgXjVFuC_LexrDBGYfS5rvXZ08WX48CnSsNRNfYZjQJTZHFweuVv9N2g1BJgAsSnk0azcG78GEPPzPPQ78KBdOlmk/s320/20230703_103107.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTAURRUZiWjVPHc_e227a-HkEJAdTftIfBZVNj2jKpfnPL6uKWf4y3VCxIoAnn_K5w-sm_f4V_nxAX196-oQutOqGoQ_XTZpfu_KarD9gc48-sTWgqjwKX6QHvBtf4AdgAb8bKOF01if6OtBVvKkighWa337fFKboTNHzs12kV4FE9nHAQi5tvx3Calw/s1209/20230703_104236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTAURRUZiWjVPHc_e227a-HkEJAdTftIfBZVNj2jKpfnPL6uKWf4y3VCxIoAnn_K5w-sm_f4V_nxAX196-oQutOqGoQ_XTZpfu_KarD9gc48-sTWgqjwKX6QHvBtf4AdgAb8bKOF01if6OtBVvKkighWa337fFKboTNHzs12kV4FE9nHAQi5tvx3Calw/s320/20230703_104236.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">musicisti di strada che escono dal mercato coperto, dove si sono esibiti, e contano gli spicci</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEGPsdr9ixuBVTZO4kBjWi9oPaEPrPj0fsHnTL5piE14-wjBYUJlDxrCHKYFZ1NTzocs84xVCB4WoUQMGEDQlcLE4Srk_T0ySVkTjsuqrQIjRpRkwF_4ZeTmq5eraTQl9doVQQTf8JhsS12vZ_BmPQxVA-YU_1STak_6lq3RPcWMy41FJwOwagmr-Sn4/s1209/20230703_104907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEGPsdr9ixuBVTZO4kBjWi9oPaEPrPj0fsHnTL5piE14-wjBYUJlDxrCHKYFZ1NTzocs84xVCB4WoUQMGEDQlcLE4Srk_T0ySVkTjsuqrQIjRpRkwF_4ZeTmq5eraTQl9doVQQTf8JhsS12vZ_BmPQxVA-YU_1STak_6lq3RPcWMy41FJwOwagmr-Sn4/s320/20230703_104907.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Al suo interno, la chiesa custodisce la più ampia collezione di statue brutte che io abbia mai visto. L'apice si raggiunge con il Cristo unicorno, sotto in foto.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE7bi0NaxAZQMWtT5WMqs_MVa9I6NOP3uH4QCp-3lkIH2XL8ftPc3jLT7qyTH8F_DWokduKD4UMpbQ7qwym4BwdzwHKfsBl0dZTKQmT8UUxm7mz4ieAnOuJwmho7hsqY1pDDrv1ry5E2ZTQVYbJ-82HFfeoPL_9s9cDGT4O9eFJeKGashYSAQKeJ3DwI/s1209/20230703_105023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE7bi0NaxAZQMWtT5WMqs_MVa9I6NOP3uH4QCp-3lkIH2XL8ftPc3jLT7qyTH8F_DWokduKD4UMpbQ7qwym4BwdzwHKfsBl0dZTKQmT8UUxm7mz4ieAnOuJwmho7hsqY1pDDrv1ry5E2ZTQVYbJ-82HFfeoPL_9s9cDGT4O9eFJeKGashYSAQKeJ3DwI/s320/20230703_105023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAQjn_PYAVhaz0IWAULsfk9Gku2Ebs-a8DU-3twiwIIObESJYH5zdiayPlecCtHIUPRBMct3P9RM0sljx1TTPCfRxaQCqqqZpuBKb5XdW6IqmQKD9BF-kop3PcjDjnUoy7SMqeIUMAby3eSQtYvnKeHnXPUiqH9FLG-EYpTM5RthY1OMrmkX11xIe_9s/s1209/20230703_105102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAQjn_PYAVhaz0IWAULsfk9Gku2Ebs-a8DU-3twiwIIObESJYH5zdiayPlecCtHIUPRBMct3P9RM0sljx1TTPCfRxaQCqqqZpuBKb5XdW6IqmQKD9BF-kop3PcjDjnUoy7SMqeIUMAby3eSQtYvnKeHnXPUiqH9FLG-EYpTM5RthY1OMrmkX11xIe_9s/s320/20230703_105102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_12rVX5eatnl1S903-XhMlo5i9CIxVIyOz0JymwTjJeBGGmnh9TdSCgsoCoa0EEmTeXGf2yqE7rQE_5BxoFck257a1PvENnwiQC0fRuc3QUxV_b0Cb1mc3YeqjzjI1jtTTvoj10EjHXH59MH2KBdnRRDFfTXWiGe4ecYCngAK1wDc3O2DMwQ8a_4VRhI/s1209/20230703_105222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_12rVX5eatnl1S903-XhMlo5i9CIxVIyOz0JymwTjJeBGGmnh9TdSCgsoCoa0EEmTeXGf2yqE7rQE_5BxoFck257a1PvENnwiQC0fRuc3QUxV_b0Cb1mc3YeqjzjI1jtTTvoj10EjHXH59MH2KBdnRRDFfTXWiGe4ecYCngAK1wDc3O2DMwQ8a_4VRhI/s320/20230703_105222.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la prima a destra... L'unicorno!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQNN1bW2y8zyDkOz2lYDkdu0wB4KgTCHrZEO5eEuOnakvovIyVK4bjCyuCSBUTn2CKRX_PzZneQP8vbxEZlFWQKnE9LMlO6W1yZcCpCEC6JaAHgnDkoQhsQKt6dFLStwPaRjmUp-LX7OgpCLK6_2BYJzyUHPtTVL98tAhomKrWrgguksWjDedkLZ7GIo/s1209/20230703_105301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQNN1bW2y8zyDkOz2lYDkdu0wB4KgTCHrZEO5eEuOnakvovIyVK4bjCyuCSBUTn2CKRX_PzZneQP8vbxEZlFWQKnE9LMlO6W1yZcCpCEC6JaAHgnDkoQhsQKt6dFLStwPaRjmUp-LX7OgpCLK6_2BYJzyUHPtTVL98tAhomKrWrgguksWjDedkLZ7GIo/s320/20230703_105301.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQAMbXjpMo0PNaXbjNtLFjRVQmXg_cS6hpFQkYzhx2JK4VDrnFj3TG88GKCsx5hOwpUwdMic94op7_A_Y3E1CH4ORP7GjEzkZHE9tA2nkqkjRM1V6XqX_KndqujDu02XhmwTS0b9Oh0qmnnN5AqE11GaPdQ0Qi-IW99rYkzJQu5XaDBgwY4QwJaJhyFU/s1209/20230703_105326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQAMbXjpMo0PNaXbjNtLFjRVQmXg_cS6hpFQkYzhx2JK4VDrnFj3TG88GKCsx5hOwpUwdMic94op7_A_Y3E1CH4ORP7GjEzkZHE9tA2nkqkjRM1V6XqX_KndqujDu02XhmwTS0b9Oh0qmnnN5AqE11GaPdQ0Qi-IW99rYkzJQu5XaDBgwY4QwJaJhyFU/s320/20230703_105326.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo quattro risate blasfeme, passiamo per il piccolo mercato coperto adiacente. Ci sono principalmente ristorantini affollatissimi dove si griglia, frigge e arrostisce di tutto, in un odore misto di carne, peperoncino, pesce e pane appena sfornato. I banchi sono invece piuttosto ordinati e puliti. Nulla a che vedere con certe scene peruane, insomma.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnl-z4-e9bshI8IhstSZNwwSr0DBURPeHcg4_zOEdCFTPOveoUNxKvAsbAX4OqB-jwjqvPpYCRK3ACic_QbuvPSrnvv7SkrqAGkFPWlA48PnJsj-mkdxDdTvuD8BKzF0sDFjta8gAfp7mcu0q32JMIy3ugoEsbJLNr1asMeB7AO5xBVcss6bxoEzIKOo/s1209/20230703_105628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcnl-z4-e9bshI8IhstSZNwwSr0DBURPeHcg4_zOEdCFTPOveoUNxKvAsbAX4OqB-jwjqvPpYCRK3ACic_QbuvPSrnvv7SkrqAGkFPWlA48PnJsj-mkdxDdTvuD8BKzF0sDFjta8gAfp7mcu0q32JMIy3ugoEsbJLNr1asMeB7AO5xBVcss6bxoEzIKOo/s320/20230703_105628.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyuSYruGjD_gEW0khRfYuD1_braJFNegXDzbdWeWPVdL75lsaKIWxt6ijH2TLKDAI0ABbehupmo4RAhN7Ms53XX-lP1ophWaMJ539HZq8GOCf8-WTROQHzHAIpSGDAWKsV0ssZoNgW4ZjTXYwK4jQdffYvXWRQvzvOOanH2_zFv4z2jiHqq1NZmF3tas/s1209/20230703_105635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVyuSYruGjD_gEW0khRfYuD1_braJFNegXDzbdWeWPVdL75lsaKIWxt6ijH2TLKDAI0ABbehupmo4RAhN7Ms53XX-lP1ophWaMJ539HZq8GOCf8-WTROQHzHAIpSGDAWKsV0ssZoNgW4ZjTXYwK4jQdffYvXWRQvzvOOanH2_zFv4z2jiHqq1NZmF3tas/s320/20230703_105635.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimdV3TfK4xSstdhlkMYWbh7o1LpNvzRmqbhDaQqqXtv4C-d3ZYP1mi3gtUNgVG5vtO_DyfqH_hRM9nRJnh9VjMFumzo5iP9_8SvV6uRZ9HauKuJHvvtNx7HmWW1k4_XVJsoonnTNYzpIk_nYhHdn3j3CP2lz-KdMdr9T-Ok8-YMzX1v6kKxVOUsh9rDFU/s1209/20230703_105722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimdV3TfK4xSstdhlkMYWbh7o1LpNvzRmqbhDaQqqXtv4C-d3ZYP1mi3gtUNgVG5vtO_DyfqH_hRM9nRJnh9VjMFumzo5iP9_8SvV6uRZ9HauKuJHvvtNx7HmWW1k4_XVJsoonnTNYzpIk_nYhHdn3j3CP2lz-KdMdr9T-Ok8-YMzX1v6kKxVOUsh9rDFU/s320/20230703_105722.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Nc3KbxT6tYu_yFGF64aUC9_BdrlI80bhAowUlVnuUIVF6Umh5QyBwSJG4zeQARAci2X5LV3rK8jL-Ie__ShKR3l_N6-4IfGyYalfogWnkjoQuNRXKeWr93QhWrzfIsGgF8Rf7VxVUkC7U27A5rKbwJuGPkqlMJdi8UzasZlbAL2KZqxPLXPdJtccBB0/s1209/20230703_105812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Nc3KbxT6tYu_yFGF64aUC9_BdrlI80bhAowUlVnuUIVF6Umh5QyBwSJG4zeQARAci2X5LV3rK8jL-Ie__ShKR3l_N6-4IfGyYalfogWnkjoQuNRXKeWr93QhWrzfIsGgF8Rf7VxVUkC7U27A5rKbwJuGPkqlMJdi8UzasZlbAL2KZqxPLXPdJtccBB0/s320/20230703_105812.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">versione maya della Nike</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5XnxqPnLbcjMXw13lGnpyqzRlPvFPc1_QzN8Bu2cBK9HUb51waZ9IBVbdUtqiE_Lg0lw7koalpEaZcScaYPXst7JJAI1EgtcTlKtGQGiZk4mE4XD6U0ML1RJvh2r1ECwunCgcT99h-wesJHR3rwvAc2mkcRz8ffWr5c8hNVD4WPDHSsose_c3EEAqs4/s1209/20230703_105834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5XnxqPnLbcjMXw13lGnpyqzRlPvFPc1_QzN8Bu2cBK9HUb51waZ9IBVbdUtqiE_Lg0lw7koalpEaZcScaYPXst7JJAI1EgtcTlKtGQGiZk4mE4XD6U0ML1RJvh2r1ECwunCgcT99h-wesJHR3rwvAc2mkcRz8ffWr5c8hNVD4WPDHSsose_c3EEAqs4/s320/20230703_105834.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpyuKFPE8BopqmNrrFdK9FOb2x9waBu3Bo5lCEi6dk9aU4AsIGAorw66VO8DGpxTAmZzOryvT5nurJ6AvG83SCR6cLFG7PjMrKrt9djdsxZ14OvQxfJZ3Cjb5rttRjBC6in1mEnWYYUYbAC6ataTbq9RKGAPwBRZTRBBZJg7X6SijORvlghUnVjnQ-jtk/s1209/20230703_105928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpyuKFPE8BopqmNrrFdK9FOb2x9waBu3Bo5lCEi6dk9aU4AsIGAorw66VO8DGpxTAmZzOryvT5nurJ6AvG83SCR6cLFG7PjMrKrt9djdsxZ14OvQxfJZ3Cjb5rttRjBC6in1mEnWYYUYbAC6ataTbq9RKGAPwBRZTRBBZJg7X6SijORvlghUnVjnQ-jtk/s320/20230703_105928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkJCXn_ZT8wCcBpkxEewMUeLDcHMolZjdjZIYh0G8LP-dA-awxCp5og8HTwMjRyDoplOP-3ACYF8-FTZ995ZCn3-H0PP_d8NNGy-2DyGsRlOt6TPpZ5VqEULnzZGRE8_KOMpoMvJvTvAaXs_lsmWDmNVEyKBj_F_PyGpdon2QK9ltUJB6FlQ5zR_O10M/s1209/20230703_110435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkJCXn_ZT8wCcBpkxEewMUeLDcHMolZjdjZIYh0G8LP-dA-awxCp5og8HTwMjRyDoplOP-3ACYF8-FTZ995ZCn3-H0PP_d8NNGy-2DyGsRlOt6TPpZ5VqEULnzZGRE8_KOMpoMvJvTvAaXs_lsmWDmNVEyKBj_F_PyGpdon2QK9ltUJB6FlQ5zR_O10M/s320/20230703_110435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSc8SSSATMKROuWX7B46gqFVZLdM8ys-6nmgP44K58m6H4BgQSb4cH5XG2RbEUKVMUsXgsStpHevlPJL7zLDifsWYjKqCoM4K87QHNz2_R2dcyyfPbIZ3YtcHMWhRyv5TCxX-2AIYe5vJzXeJ2Qnq-bmAdsK3mhMLyZ5k7Ew0sMC12bzBI-iCmTxRsSU/s1209/20230703_115826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSc8SSSATMKROuWX7B46gqFVZLdM8ys-6nmgP44K58m6H4BgQSb4cH5XG2RbEUKVMUsXgsStpHevlPJL7zLDifsWYjKqCoM4K87QHNz2_R2dcyyfPbIZ3YtcHMWhRyv5TCxX-2AIYe5vJzXeJ2Qnq-bmAdsK3mhMLyZ5k7Ew0sMC12bzBI-iCmTxRsSU/s320/20230703_115826.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Concluse le operazioni di lavaggio e asciugatura vestiario, ci portiamo verso il centro, con l'idea di fare una beve visita dei punti salienti in modo che Gigi possa tornare in camera a riposare.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOU0gW6GqujXvS2DcvADcmdozNQF3GZHj28NtttT2XIQh9srB4Qt14F0T9HErM-Wapb-K1ltyG3BApiNhGDD2g_RHYWUW_NaaWehEndmiU5-tB7Fw8pywjPDGe0wX_sLikyO8WvD5i_0wYhYFCPe9NFhYQisTQc9G6cxYQ0hVdgs0XMaj6eg3YiC8QBMY/s1209/20230703_120108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOU0gW6GqujXvS2DcvADcmdozNQF3GZHj28NtttT2XIQh9srB4Qt14F0T9HErM-Wapb-K1ltyG3BApiNhGDD2g_RHYWUW_NaaWehEndmiU5-tB7Fw8pywjPDGe0wX_sLikyO8WvD5i_0wYhYFCPe9NFhYQisTQc9G6cxYQ0hVdgs0XMaj6eg3YiC8QBMY/s320/20230703_120108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVfUrU3rOxwR_m47IKgefpC9rduCAvXlYrwda-a-lPdkyr_5HSBUOLLAkSf1J0huv4PirjEtrsl44ec3Mu1-kUdGXHPIGqVtRCfvdlhylrBqvMlnCXKcquvl7k8gp0vinWeuQUlwz3eaO1FwLky2IYF7nO0hONDPm-pAZBbwO50kvm1H0kH_dWJmyvViE/s1209/20230703_120138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVfUrU3rOxwR_m47IKgefpC9rduCAvXlYrwda-a-lPdkyr_5HSBUOLLAkSf1J0huv4PirjEtrsl44ec3Mu1-kUdGXHPIGqVtRCfvdlhylrBqvMlnCXKcquvl7k8gp0vinWeuQUlwz3eaO1FwLky2IYF7nO0hONDPm-pAZBbwO50kvm1H0kH_dWJmyvViE/s320/20230703_120138.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ma questi che vendono corsi religiosi che sembrano locandine di film? Sabato terapia de amor, casos imposibles</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXIdnDly3V8k79K68bHV-ch-Fgigh_K7gb2n_JXwvVKn-6WT5_hnr62wtfIJ_7obvOkaE1jOLN4qKb0CooQ5QCnZqftr7Opy8umZSOlEKtYmjVHqLOwFxy0bkG104t4-EoiTqm6T93vkfVeHwKLQI4T8tk0tbUwf4FG6BrJ0NiV8sGnjRGYyd1bJPrh8/s1209/20230703_120402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXIdnDly3V8k79K68bHV-ch-Fgigh_K7gb2n_JXwvVKn-6WT5_hnr62wtfIJ_7obvOkaE1jOLN4qKb0CooQ5QCnZqftr7Opy8umZSOlEKtYmjVHqLOwFxy0bkG104t4-EoiTqm6T93vkfVeHwKLQI4T8tk0tbUwf4FG6BrJ0NiV8sGnjRGYyd1bJPrh8/s320/20230703_120402.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBGN0uuGjiEDnMb_RXs9LA8nuBf8jt5ALYwQkVH6P0ftzxPZfo3okI516zcn99mWodkNds20Ls5L26qbXbo58qTuFLKrg2KVDwsXdkceiCZgaSa-98iOpwqmwfQwwAsPlJpBKrhNSU3ySPuyACVG1aaOtr9JGpF2Kk-BCE1DLkT7QGQsq8Z-iLimSVtI/s1209/20230703_120455.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilBGN0uuGjiEDnMb_RXs9LA8nuBf8jt5ALYwQkVH6P0ftzxPZfo3okI516zcn99mWodkNds20Ls5L26qbXbo58qTuFLKrg2KVDwsXdkceiCZgaSa-98iOpwqmwfQwwAsPlJpBKrhNSU3ySPuyACVG1aaOtr9JGpF2Kk-BCE1DLkT7QGQsq8Z-iLimSVtI/s320/20230703_120455.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGAxqd8_FtvIDSlTyYOrCYD4U6QSVT89wAU-bxdZP_JshBKVK74TnlgZOKH2j91mm3qrCM3MK8gDneDvRI7dWR_goim0qfyeMMZ3KcMO3owEzlZAR6CzMcdB5HF1-2Y2_2sXJKZVXc67OECqPNIh4M086ShR_XP9KR9LVmnZwuzLwCk1YuHswR7OQDwqk/s1209/20230703_120505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGAxqd8_FtvIDSlTyYOrCYD4U6QSVT89wAU-bxdZP_JshBKVK74TnlgZOKH2j91mm3qrCM3MK8gDneDvRI7dWR_goim0qfyeMMZ3KcMO3owEzlZAR6CzMcdB5HF1-2Y2_2sXJKZVXc67OECqPNIh4M086ShR_XP9KR9LVmnZwuzLwCk1YuHswR7OQDwqk/s320/20230703_120505.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVcUoAwoWpcePFcNCdINe319IPlPDyQbILLUPSPCMATvTWB0peHlfcPtVDeZnwA9qKGTSKrM5weo1000PRkkJjelQKaYDg0SytEskTwyES3er6LJ7B6BTh8Q_ybARINhJu-rPnY2kiAUhPpB6XAq8YYMpn-49TeQnT_6vAVLwWooBfxTLNBnTRs85OvBc/s1209/20230703_121108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVcUoAwoWpcePFcNCdINe319IPlPDyQbILLUPSPCMATvTWB0peHlfcPtVDeZnwA9qKGTSKrM5weo1000PRkkJjelQKaYDg0SytEskTwyES3er6LJ7B6BTh8Q_ybARINhJu-rPnY2kiAUhPpB6XAq8YYMpn-49TeQnT_6vAVLwWooBfxTLNBnTRs85OvBc/s320/20230703_121108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKV-KPNt8LGEu8sFZsLltn4PalDEJq8iZsj4ci1xQdiL2qPdD-h40-9UPq93OyL3rytxx7auNHSzkbUHd5cqCNTj0i129h15R-hR-563RVYqNxb7grGq7FdMsA68cvnrOR5-qE8S6jhK3L1zetN_w0VkXJU7pVeJL78ZMaA9kUai986-ZVxY8moLJcpw/s1209/20230703_121136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKV-KPNt8LGEu8sFZsLltn4PalDEJq8iZsj4ci1xQdiL2qPdD-h40-9UPq93OyL3rytxx7auNHSzkbUHd5cqCNTj0i129h15R-hR-563RVYqNxb7grGq7FdMsA68cvnrOR5-qE8S6jhK3L1zetN_w0VkXJU7pVeJL78ZMaA9kUai986-ZVxY8moLJcpw/s320/20230703_121136.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Raggiungiamo in primis la Iglesia de Jesus, costruita dai gesuiti nel 1618 con le pietre ricavate dalla demolizione del tempio maya che sorgeva proprio in questo luogo, tanto che sulle facciate è possibile rintracciare alcune incisioni maya.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR-XIHaw83j3honjalsbbq1Ti69YpjENNwWztR6UKCdqYv6bwKqRIRLsYFrhebJ7VUSZUO_HDIldF6G2OPMkaAUDCAt2vnBcdkBQsomzRexz44nkMkOtKmcYJzN7kRTYdeUPBtDZL-fQAXi7cWZ67OnQZ5O5BtTAyFQg9TByhfb7h3RgSM2H_Hbp-apeU/s1209/20230703_121252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR-XIHaw83j3honjalsbbq1Ti69YpjENNwWztR6UKCdqYv6bwKqRIRLsYFrhebJ7VUSZUO_HDIldF6G2OPMkaAUDCAt2vnBcdkBQsomzRexz44nkMkOtKmcYJzN7kRTYdeUPBtDZL-fQAXi7cWZ67OnQZ5O5BtTAyFQg9TByhfb7h3RgSM2H_Hbp-apeU/s320/20230703_121252.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAX7-mpNKxmREQGbIXMgXDINlRJVkx_KmjG81PBklMDrF8heTmXoI3e2009zB0nT7AIi1I-qCNIx9-FDX6c3R976y5HiZxNBQd5q4q0G2jxzpRMXKqn1_lPU-KGckauPxS-GbC1QPJAgWZCSw_HR1ZFOO8Q0A8ykgfjdUfgVH0oQrBPvX2lKNHa4AHj4/s1209/20230703_121327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAX7-mpNKxmREQGbIXMgXDINlRJVkx_KmjG81PBklMDrF8heTmXoI3e2009zB0nT7AIi1I-qCNIx9-FDX6c3R976y5HiZxNBQd5q4q0G2jxzpRMXKqn1_lPU-KGckauPxS-GbC1QPJAgWZCSw_HR1ZFOO8Q0A8ykgfjdUfgVH0oQrBPvX2lKNHa4AHj4/s320/20230703_121327.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgonJGnaTrRspXoguyOXfFZOfmmkuPpdEGeDiSEmzGhl8RFpIM2CNK5UoUJkypFZFYS1otcAZrvcOzeKGEdRvTP9ugL7CQMndxDQJuaAmKNd9gJENKNF1-MjJdbv4so_8giCWwF8LMkuUvldnKdmUTGjUnWNLoNmtOpTbhXr2AUY_FZjOV-KzsLa-BTOZ0/s1209/20230703_121419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgonJGnaTrRspXoguyOXfFZOfmmkuPpdEGeDiSEmzGhl8RFpIM2CNK5UoUJkypFZFYS1otcAZrvcOzeKGEdRvTP9ugL7CQMndxDQJuaAmKNd9gJENKNF1-MjJdbv4so_8giCWwF8LMkuUvldnKdmUTGjUnWNLoNmtOpTbhXr2AUY_FZjOV-KzsLa-BTOZ0/s320/20230703_121419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci spostiamo poi nel vicino parco di Santa Lucia, delimitato da portici e sede di localini graziosi. Un tempo i viaggiatori arrivavano e partivano da qui, in diligenza. Sul palchetto in pietra, ogni giovedì, vanno in scena le serenatas yucatecas.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFU-E34evvJrqkIQy6V0xAV_gAr3dkWm531YnGVwywt8N7XmW2HEtyBDLUwL0crOpJF6jb6rlsIZYCkmm0yVoVv4yS63gyMuGHutQjMFwGXwhrErVFebbGQL6kYE39kmcxuw7gvWEUmO-RVghLaAKykLNfsvaFbv2w_rsDCYU0SjglnTjnmGyEalCnzQ/s1209/20230703_122255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFU-E34evvJrqkIQy6V0xAV_gAr3dkWm531YnGVwywt8N7XmW2HEtyBDLUwL0crOpJF6jb6rlsIZYCkmm0yVoVv4yS63gyMuGHutQjMFwGXwhrErVFebbGQL6kYE39kmcxuw7gvWEUmO-RVghLaAKykLNfsvaFbv2w_rsDCYU0SjglnTjnmGyEalCnzQ/s320/20230703_122255.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7XOHdkbUEdcnWEgH8zc70SBclOmbwoPQpHtPgi8veef6yEkN6w3HMySCzDQfpPHsW2ptQcxPI3VNy1R1X9Z9L-YQVwXDNeeNDDmfPtYNt-VjlKa2o8jc6U9x0hZd2HgJxiVNURMmoVtK6A9UWITkrq4Q9mRDrSSkONU3_tcd7aw9XMO5eAPkwfdYbI8U/s1209/20230703_122317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7XOHdkbUEdcnWEgH8zc70SBclOmbwoPQpHtPgi8veef6yEkN6w3HMySCzDQfpPHsW2ptQcxPI3VNy1R1X9Z9L-YQVwXDNeeNDDmfPtYNt-VjlKa2o8jc6U9x0hZd2HgJxiVNURMmoVtK6A9UWITkrq4Q9mRDrSSkONU3_tcd7aw9XMO5eAPkwfdYbI8U/s320/20230703_122317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuLFlpk3VDcAtFTFeQ-EnqwC1fIHk5xb-UpDtqDli4FEpI7vAFCeKNeTOFnOe2v1Ep_WdVuszt77CHoQIvk0_73TnK8Lxsrq7Ze2oNfA5lxevvXD5ELjhGE5o8Fz5wdQiSHAEPtjWib6XIbFraxdSAt5kqK2xaDLotHeo2zRQlV8gWDSh2WvpqmirJbw/s1209/20230703_122342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuLFlpk3VDcAtFTFeQ-EnqwC1fIHk5xb-UpDtqDli4FEpI7vAFCeKNeTOFnOe2v1Ep_WdVuszt77CHoQIvk0_73TnK8Lxsrq7Ze2oNfA5lxevvXD5ELjhGE5o8Fz5wdQiSHAEPtjWib6XIbFraxdSAt5kqK2xaDLotHeo2zRQlV8gWDSh2WvpqmirJbw/s320/20230703_122342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Potandoci verso la piazza centrale, passiamo per il futuristico palacio de la musica, che si colloca tra palazzi storici e case d'epoca.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkoKTIpc3g8PyjHWU0NYX-kKBXlIQFHGOa6Fhzm_ErLuBiklO9lINUNpDjSzuBS5mWbQ5hyiHQZ3MdzCTeW1UGoNXm8H9IvOg8CVsBOoIV4eBPSr1ygnrwGoTckWAaVE46PHtxmm5Qzj-0scQugcnVo7JmZXJO2wDAbMinuri9oUlPrelx1o52GvXchQ8/s979/20230703_123301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkoKTIpc3g8PyjHWU0NYX-kKBXlIQFHGOa6Fhzm_ErLuBiklO9lINUNpDjSzuBS5mWbQ5hyiHQZ3MdzCTeW1UGoNXm8H9IvOg8CVsBOoIV4eBPSr1ygnrwGoTckWAaVE46PHtxmm5Qzj-0scQugcnVo7JmZXJO2wDAbMinuri9oUlPrelx1o52GvXchQ8/s320/20230703_123301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_wttIIdhZmt7fMgS4ODCuEx3lhLprDrG82-f2QqadYlxS_8MaNnpZUda8NRNtPyP8COXxXFo-sp_Crdq2jOglrFSSLKTrjGcUR3r7k38aJuoIcgQ85PkjTtJYJ-YNk9zqdtA2rWM1GRlItNJYGq4z6GKFCKalzp9SLi9DBgHcm6uth_w7FfhbE7Bzw4/s1209/20230703_123314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_wttIIdhZmt7fMgS4ODCuEx3lhLprDrG82-f2QqadYlxS_8MaNnpZUda8NRNtPyP8COXxXFo-sp_Crdq2jOglrFSSLKTrjGcUR3r7k38aJuoIcgQ85PkjTtJYJ-YNk9zqdtA2rWM1GRlItNJYGq4z6GKFCKalzp9SLi9DBgHcm6uth_w7FfhbE7Bzw4/s320/20230703_123314.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzak_v6d5XEjLA8Ntmb2KoBEOSofsd7M8sdSiobtmw7PRYFctUEbuEeAud4MgTkTlIp-Qqau9L04G__LBgqmiBu2wBkBWmiGJGu3p6L_cTtfWHScWgyKEUcmvHPanYawuBR9xcu95G6NoJJNYnNAkUm1ZaNLDmOqOEGOh6n5EDDJ9fsN9HLfFb7YYOzQ/s1209/20230703_123342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzak_v6d5XEjLA8Ntmb2KoBEOSofsd7M8sdSiobtmw7PRYFctUEbuEeAud4MgTkTlIp-Qqau9L04G__LBgqmiBu2wBkBWmiGJGu3p6L_cTtfWHScWgyKEUcmvHPanYawuBR9xcu95G6NoJJNYnNAkUm1ZaNLDmOqOEGOh6n5EDDJ9fsN9HLfFb7YYOzQ/s320/20230703_123342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSOwoQeXtMQxvKzoKCqkGJcUH0IHhSfmTc5fEf60QXpgH-cGu40iD-EzKhuu75GKKWlRn8lmqkybYjRk5Iqslhn8H1YvhxCslNQyQNETpgB1jjInEhrTweyFs4qH3rdV1yu-Wce1A1OiTsb1lKY1NOFqa7ETYRGFAJqkdxBU_90j787V13KsBZ0mO_v-M/s979/20230703_123418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSOwoQeXtMQxvKzoKCqkGJcUH0IHhSfmTc5fEf60QXpgH-cGu40iD-EzKhuu75GKKWlRn8lmqkybYjRk5Iqslhn8H1YvhxCslNQyQNETpgB1jjInEhrTweyFs4qH3rdV1yu-Wce1A1OiTsb1lKY1NOFqa7ETYRGFAJqkdxBU_90j787V13KsBZ0mO_v-M/s320/20230703_123418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Attraversiamo il parco de los hidalgos (!)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4hB8UEnra3Oks-bvQwp3Dg31c6erS9JunOpOlSkIBPbnG8rr4VQI0YXyvuNPhSTrEf7khw3t2HhTqMEhZhffOYDfqMPZT-gTXLOrEAZlb1y_YI3496wG6Sk9k0Hlx9HMXhNlmw0WbexVdfXi0Ny7VygT3JVTHLQDf-8ROHERG3lw6Wr3MdlkFMr_40M/s979/20230703_123617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf4hB8UEnra3Oks-bvQwp3Dg31c6erS9JunOpOlSkIBPbnG8rr4VQI0YXyvuNPhSTrEf7khw3t2HhTqMEhZhffOYDfqMPZT-gTXLOrEAZlb1y_YI3496wG6Sk9k0Hlx9HMXhNlmw0WbexVdfXi0Ny7VygT3JVTHLQDf-8ROHERG3lw6Wr3MdlkFMr_40M/s320/20230703_123617.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">ed eccoci finalmente ai piedi della cattedrale di San Idelfonso, iniziata nel 1561 e portata a termine nel 1598 dove prima sorgeva un tempio maya, di cui sono state utilizzate le pietre. L'interno è disadorno perchè le sontuose decorazioni furono distrutte dai contadini ribelli, durante la rivoluzione, al culmine dei disordini anticlericali. Accanto, nel fu palazzo arcivescovile, si trova il museo di arte contemporanea.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f2que5H68BgNHcjZwfGYT9qz9T3nw2_gyIB5r5_-qtlckl3PfJXFp78WBdW4LB3NrQiSmFSpkxdpidpI-EYjm0TAeAmjagMU05Vt31pwRWvUBxRCdkTO1v8NujXmD9FkUL-IphzkLOd9f553D6nohg3mmQbEP52umy85hFteSzBu78lbnn78ICEemkA/s979/20230703_124033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3f2que5H68BgNHcjZwfGYT9qz9T3nw2_gyIB5r5_-qtlckl3PfJXFp78WBdW4LB3NrQiSmFSpkxdpidpI-EYjm0TAeAmjagMU05Vt31pwRWvUBxRCdkTO1v8NujXmD9FkUL-IphzkLOd9f553D6nohg3mmQbEP52umy85hFteSzBu78lbnn78ICEemkA/s320/20230703_124033.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJGFmTq-GTfdrCIbm4t1GMeTUN2SZfESYILDwTngartlVSPZ8gUhTE4dbHGEaF4QaNnCaQuseCXyIINZZsu2CY-cs-0QSHTAXmfCNTs39kxl0cyjPCOnhhzKynPzRLvAjQO3gDRSSU_LXgztTYNJoVYSQD-1cXrYc_PjwHeAWiSwjZ6PVyOj5PGKAzK38/s1209/20230703_124039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJGFmTq-GTfdrCIbm4t1GMeTUN2SZfESYILDwTngartlVSPZ8gUhTE4dbHGEaF4QaNnCaQuseCXyIINZZsu2CY-cs-0QSHTAXmfCNTs39kxl0cyjPCOnhhzKynPzRLvAjQO3gDRSSU_LXgztTYNJoVYSQD-1cXrYc_PjwHeAWiSwjZ6PVyOj5PGKAzK38/s320/20230703_124039.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZBo6ZrvN9q0xsUjixG_qnx7YiTSyMU4mbfjtWHc9f5AUT0NUIArICfTQgeN1qDFEEDs4_BARi4kaLxdsdaSBskbmEne5vZlBMO2MjQhJIT57Qv8tSjPi6WxwFUqpoFNL7-i2EHHubkhVRoDco4QYpseOSVewAbieGgU3O8rTyX6MmX4WoiXewocYdMWU/s1209/20230703_124129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZBo6ZrvN9q0xsUjixG_qnx7YiTSyMU4mbfjtWHc9f5AUT0NUIArICfTQgeN1qDFEEDs4_BARi4kaLxdsdaSBskbmEne5vZlBMO2MjQhJIT57Qv8tSjPi6WxwFUqpoFNL7-i2EHHubkhVRoDco4QYpseOSVewAbieGgU3O8rTyX6MmX4WoiXewocYdMWU/s320/20230703_124129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWu9Z7h_x03dP6YqZWvtjLhGmiMdv_BmUbC3AybFVMdQjsCioa9gA_SwMKd_cr0eUlT4tciDBKbkMFQZgUwf6IWr7UwQbK_ozp848296SlrB2gOtpaE4m0IQTG1byZFdMrpdYOWPVE_JddUwMnb5jecO7zC0hGSoqQD5tFSGoy3iGqxeiAB0qJ8QLB_Yc/s1209/20230703_124236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWu9Z7h_x03dP6YqZWvtjLhGmiMdv_BmUbC3AybFVMdQjsCioa9gA_SwMKd_cr0eUlT4tciDBKbkMFQZgUwf6IWr7UwQbK_ozp848296SlrB2gOtpaE4m0IQTG1byZFdMrpdYOWPVE_JddUwMnb5jecO7zC0hGSoqQD5tFSGoy3iGqxeiAB0qJ8QLB_Yc/s320/20230703_124236.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi68TNq4V_w_PzEffKV-pDQBCjv9Xb75vTPfq6Klt1xEhk-Vqu3oOW7971Au_f_g78BowUMbwG9OsZHKUvMD5Ajy-Lmk8wCxHxOxuQ1KyqaQWOkJqT6XHOZpQCkuHrRYoPdibqwuGqF5rE3OOs9Ron4tyREeTqyhMklvPmnnX6lU6pdeStaMpHHHJoeTs0/s1209/20230703_124400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi68TNq4V_w_PzEffKV-pDQBCjv9Xb75vTPfq6Klt1xEhk-Vqu3oOW7971Au_f_g78BowUMbwG9OsZHKUvMD5Ajy-Lmk8wCxHxOxuQ1KyqaQWOkJqT6XHOZpQCkuHrRYoPdibqwuGqF5rE3OOs9Ron4tyREeTqyhMklvPmnnX6lU6pdeStaMpHHHJoeTs0/s320/20230703_124400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Di fronte alla cattedrale si trova il palazzo del governo municipale.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFWlccHt_3qJQTTjyDW-AqxzBJaUjoqemFjvmBkdvSIwEq_9C-boyCfvm9ETj7iQCxq2LDchHlKE36Nt1ZFA2lUKuJWvlJoOk0ATlKLupoKefm4icO_kYZ4QH_EZ5riFonG3bKYosonrM1wCA6Jsv1KWDCJkEbr9vEszDVtIVia7ibL_9NZ2O3qj8wAyk/s979/20230703_124419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFWlccHt_3qJQTTjyDW-AqxzBJaUjoqemFjvmBkdvSIwEq_9C-boyCfvm9ETj7iQCxq2LDchHlKE36Nt1ZFA2lUKuJWvlJoOk0ATlKLupoKefm4icO_kYZ4QH_EZ5riFonG3bKYosonrM1wCA6Jsv1KWDCJkEbr9vEszDVtIVia7ibL_9NZ2O3qj8wAyk/s320/20230703_124419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-ZtCsnyvEd9TwQFaXalLnxOSMr1LcZF8oQxHrwUxryiDRZZ-WHc627H8tuwtJDs3FGJe46m0oDKBgkQGYIeOGkGgyVE6k22nrnCOMl5P56_AX4zTr0RVwFqVHPpPCBr7MEFUTdUGZZ3c2wTxZTGc-jsaQOrrIz46IORvGN1mmtpnapCSSI7VYhAY7d0/s1209/20230703_124426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-ZtCsnyvEd9TwQFaXalLnxOSMr1LcZF8oQxHrwUxryiDRZZ-WHc627H8tuwtJDs3FGJe46m0oDKBgkQGYIeOGkGgyVE6k22nrnCOMl5P56_AX4zTr0RVwFqVHPpPCBr7MEFUTdUGZZ3c2wTxZTGc-jsaQOrrIz46IORvGN1mmtpnapCSSI7VYhAY7d0/s320/20230703_124426.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm3FQqs5leuhkkRn_BYuq5BPBQ40AT_H7jHCGP236l3qlI-MFl121p7VJRaV6kv6T3Jg7GkZOa9BEvnsSZDA927YQlVUNqt00e9K64buSyzM0przq7jQCXsut-7Y25CnCtQZ_Vas9i4Tp1eb_JVj5y240Iaf1T9KZMi0K6JnEoYabHGcpdO2a5AfVn3g0/s1209/20230703_124517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm3FQqs5leuhkkRn_BYuq5BPBQ40AT_H7jHCGP236l3qlI-MFl121p7VJRaV6kv6T3Jg7GkZOa9BEvnsSZDA927YQlVUNqt00e9K64buSyzM0przq7jQCXsut-7Y25CnCtQZ_Vas9i4Tp1eb_JVj5y240Iaf1T9KZMi0K6JnEoYabHGcpdO2a5AfVn3g0/s320/20230703_124517.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPSx6MIGqnA4P7iOAx6Ldbnk3-cbkFupNeZG8f8JmbqbsxWLO8p3AI7Fy5ewKnkOzD2QekMV0c6abmt7cFpjzF1MWkctcXJTfHnprr1AmxAPEzmfOKl4iIapvnIdr0kiREbqXY-t20bt11dVK6REBdG1_yyMpZ0lErMqpp4vlIXmh63g_rFc1E478G_Lg/s1209/20230703_124657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPSx6MIGqnA4P7iOAx6Ldbnk3-cbkFupNeZG8f8JmbqbsxWLO8p3AI7Fy5ewKnkOzD2QekMV0c6abmt7cFpjzF1MWkctcXJTfHnprr1AmxAPEzmfOKl4iIapvnIdr0kiREbqXY-t20bt11dVK6REBdG1_yyMpZ0lErMqpp4vlIXmh63g_rFc1E478G_Lg/s320/20230703_124657.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Yy3lktb9hR4O8eYDDCtJeuOSCHAgJI7_ZrvIaSWUcbuT_di78o0RvLK3_MbznmYvyDSp7dsBuVh440YXEU5Ay9f1AC_6QBzjZxvT4Fcm7YqkI8SGlxXq3LYactPOScWdRD7SYwHePFbpzUIoQ1rH0rH_tr7OCbjshANMIZg2X7I-SBTUKQ7v_M2FnIc/s1209/20230703_124731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Yy3lktb9hR4O8eYDDCtJeuOSCHAgJI7_ZrvIaSWUcbuT_di78o0RvLK3_MbznmYvyDSp7dsBuVh440YXEU5Ay9f1AC_6QBzjZxvT4Fcm7YqkI8SGlxXq3LYactPOScWdRD7SYwHePFbpzUIoQ1rH0rH_tr7OCbjshANMIZg2X7I-SBTUKQ7v_M2FnIc/s320/20230703_124731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRERMLKVqCUKaItgVDpZ5H1cwFOFAC6_wUn6f9GlFKd1-XTTlWqQ-E0nvVldjUd93KUhhhYmd_zfZgCm8kV7eWizbp0UPjuGAgFwwnDL5fSWzGZi8IHCUydXdPvdL_IE7FICknwnwFSvlMwWlNAGzJgeNn_MoErg_SIx-YBSe94Hq3KQC89gKAqFmU5o/s1209/20230703_124816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRERMLKVqCUKaItgVDpZ5H1cwFOFAC6_wUn6f9GlFKd1-XTTlWqQ-E0nvVldjUd93KUhhhYmd_zfZgCm8kV7eWizbp0UPjuGAgFwwnDL5fSWzGZi8IHCUydXdPvdL_IE7FICknwnwFSvlMwWlNAGzJgeNn_MoErg_SIx-YBSe94Hq3KQC89gKAqFmU5o/s320/20230703_124816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sulla piazza si affaccia anche casa museo Montejo, costruita nel 1549 e inizialmente adibita a caserma, poi villa nobiliare, oggi banca e museo. Interessante è la facciata, che raffigura conquistadores trionfanti con alabarde e piedi sulla testa di barbari non meglio identificati (e chi saranno mai?). I vinti sono, in proporzione, piccolissimi rispetto ai vincitori, canone tipico dell'arte coloniale che si ritrova anche nelle chiese.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0PQnEIwCRGMgXGetE2VGYn0DU4AVkncD6fIgpHumRTVwTfqvecn6wyD17_2HndJfNkYCnlzwm8W9c3GWG5T5libcZAyyQ__FKxUesDGtc-JhRuRU5QoYe3s9o3kJ0-P0rK8iDcXvywz7_Erw9KV7tzlUD3baiDukMY-0smQtkJtV23_dZcIwB0xRAd0s/s1209/20230703_124928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0PQnEIwCRGMgXGetE2VGYn0DU4AVkncD6fIgpHumRTVwTfqvecn6wyD17_2HndJfNkYCnlzwm8W9c3GWG5T5libcZAyyQ__FKxUesDGtc-JhRuRU5QoYe3s9o3kJ0-P0rK8iDcXvywz7_Erw9KV7tzlUD3baiDukMY-0smQtkJtV23_dZcIwB0xRAd0s/s320/20230703_124928.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8v3goIJkLg3YAY2NuCiRjM0sErUkgL4icDqQyjE65K_D-tYGqGNWYUFtm6szyA_cW74d-w-j_Yqv8X2LfNMJM6PY_qAD0d3_2ECN3TeMHawAF69QVWaBplxqVYEWk7-ZSGVLLX5VKoxALpnaxizaIUszMXV2hxif1_0jUtJVKZhY9YfhNEX6p0I8Tj9A/s1209/20230703_124937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8v3goIJkLg3YAY2NuCiRjM0sErUkgL4icDqQyjE65K_D-tYGqGNWYUFtm6szyA_cW74d-w-j_Yqv8X2LfNMJM6PY_qAD0d3_2ECN3TeMHawAF69QVWaBplxqVYEWk7-ZSGVLLX5VKoxALpnaxizaIUszMXV2hxif1_0jUtJVKZhY9YfhNEX6p0I8Tj9A/s320/20230703_124937.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gigi ha esaurito le forze, per cui torniamo in hotel passando per i due archi secenteschi, del ponte e dei dragoni, che delimitavano la città,</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9U8A2Uijqt8cbFXKau3NGOXnR5DX4WVq_AQYx8PGH4k-C09PvAZMyyZOhhzb_NNsf8XNCF4AwSNaUczXGBQ6jJKYr4VjKQRz6uHFJjQSJSSKm7Kv0FT0dAWT3viMOm5492q5X1u6n45mV19PKDRsxhf4eFZj1leSbvuWrCIz3o86IIZBzvxCSNR_dwk/s1209/20230703_130336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9U8A2Uijqt8cbFXKau3NGOXnR5DX4WVq_AQYx8PGH4k-C09PvAZMyyZOhhzb_NNsf8XNCF4AwSNaUczXGBQ6jJKYr4VjKQRz6uHFJjQSJSSKm7Kv0FT0dAWT3viMOm5492q5X1u6n45mV19PKDRsxhf4eFZj1leSbvuWrCIz3o86IIZBzvxCSNR_dwk/s320/20230703_130336.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhky-FIyrJncAWK2lBxO4iakNmpSI3rma7UHM1i4AdwijJLB2_fhfq1uMO5jUWdPNLrykLqWn14EuelfxebvYgF8pgIk1-RlUVeaL9kvJAqCF7Lt-5TTUwq9T3PpttwYUtC7RChjdXDiHoMSKg0Sm2GjxHCudepebVFlq6cfZiYBZqpbOJjVG9ZMyRrQKE/s1209/20230703_130530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhky-FIyrJncAWK2lBxO4iakNmpSI3rma7UHM1i4AdwijJLB2_fhfq1uMO5jUWdPNLrykLqWn14EuelfxebvYgF8pgIk1-RlUVeaL9kvJAqCF7Lt-5TTUwq9T3PpttwYUtC7RChjdXDiHoMSKg0Sm2GjxHCudepebVFlq6cfZiYBZqpbOJjVG9ZMyRrQKE/s320/20230703_130530.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgme4wObvOzEHTBxNIhWQkX8Nx3biNLnVEdFDSMooRM0layoTSUxN9hQX3ySIcQDb8l2upTnXG0W8qT3Xbj77TGBLr_kBa75FC3BWvbhpBHGGDVFzoYvm-tj2YCqEuuDh767jqEidyZg3qEg_wZ1NPM_eAvDC62NwAZnha7u3YmdOSFH53QNxmczz-5Jtk/s1209/20230703_130736.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgme4wObvOzEHTBxNIhWQkX8Nx3biNLnVEdFDSMooRM0layoTSUxN9hQX3ySIcQDb8l2upTnXG0W8qT3Xbj77TGBLr_kBa75FC3BWvbhpBHGGDVFzoYvm-tj2YCqEuuDh767jqEidyZg3qEg_wZ1NPM_eAvDC62NwAZnha7u3YmdOSFH53QNxmczz-5Jtk/s320/20230703_130736.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D5I8OPMD0-hnTtUpqpkZXV84Yc_idAhk2hAT0L3bZf61H9A_bzwZzgIyu1E29o_8Pk_TgKGGHNAx9051euDHfsJUoj9ul7TeZbodXbVEVoVnl74EqqR6HmoBr1VyhuZYqNfpb7TpwGXPLaRvK1qOYb_fXGJoMLFhj2dRWdopmGWWldq78u_nRApJ3BM/s1209/20230703_130757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8D5I8OPMD0-hnTtUpqpkZXV84Yc_idAhk2hAT0L3bZf61H9A_bzwZzgIyu1E29o_8Pk_TgKGGHNAx9051euDHfsJUoj9ul7TeZbodXbVEVoVnl74EqqR6HmoBr1VyhuZYqNfpb7TpwGXPLaRvK1qOYb_fXGJoMLFhj2dRWdopmGWWldq78u_nRApJ3BM/s320/20230703_130757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>fino a raggiungere l'hotel via chiesa de La Mejorada e museo della canzone yucateca.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdCo7Xvvwt-XRfAemphInQvEAcJgjR32o_E_UjX_DQFmsjRc1Iy8BVPQnqaXKGORC2vajafTx5eUUb67UWjbIAfx2dSi9IMQvYOIae8dp9q6iqAylS30BwgcMSFLsIWrdkrIBmENVrJTIFdGg5cH9rbXS_98xBQDmVaj5LhJSJ9WyQjaJyt7tf61QRbKc/s1209/20230703_131123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdCo7Xvvwt-XRfAemphInQvEAcJgjR32o_E_UjX_DQFmsjRc1Iy8BVPQnqaXKGORC2vajafTx5eUUb67UWjbIAfx2dSi9IMQvYOIae8dp9q6iqAylS30BwgcMSFLsIWrdkrIBmENVrJTIFdGg5cH9rbXS_98xBQDmVaj5LhJSJ9WyQjaJyt7tf61QRbKc/s320/20230703_131123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPxPJpiVyWejijFKikHZdLg3sL3CZNVr3imB2gVZSkz-GkLDorRMiCz_DtEgssynws9g_tPQdUzKTkSM6azOAO13GEQqy4gn7TtHWpN-ErYWbeNG6VvpM1wsww2b-dRwqkY9mp0KIt8h8OqO2UGEeytCrpUgPaCYJRuPO0nOmlp2k6m7KO9aXDZTukdU/s979/20230703_131143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPxPJpiVyWejijFKikHZdLg3sL3CZNVr3imB2gVZSkz-GkLDorRMiCz_DtEgssynws9g_tPQdUzKTkSM6azOAO13GEQqy4gn7TtHWpN-ErYWbeNG6VvpM1wsww2b-dRwqkY9mp0KIt8h8OqO2UGEeytCrpUgPaCYJRuPO0nOmlp2k6m7KO9aXDZTukdU/s320/20230703_131143.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mi fermo anch'io un po' in camera a preparare le tappe dei giorni prossimi. Poi decido di uscire per recarmi al Museo maya, che dista una decina di km dal centro e richiede di prendere un mezzo. Proprio mentre metto fuori il naso si scatena il diluvio universale, come ieri. Stessa scena: vento, acqua a secchiate, strade allegate in un attimo, delirio e disagio di traffico. Ma non mi interessa, voglio vedere il museo. Quindi indosso la mia cerata da passeggio, praticamente una busta dell'immondizia di plastica spessa, e via. Cammino quel tento che basta da ritrovarmi scarpe e calze, ma pure i pantaloncini e le mutande, completamente zuppi. Fortuna fa caldo, caldissimo, soffocante. Poi prendo al volo un colectivo stracolmo di visi indigeni e chiedo all'autista di farmi scendere davanti al museo, anche perchè i finestrini sono completamente appannati e riesco solo a seguire il tragitto con il gps.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4293RjWxPZTpidkXBDbvzD1tj8LQYAuI9rhiKHz6FRLpjzqtuuqZBbLUD2whAcm6RmK1uvPrUv4Nok1YEYemgY-od1-HXijccZmM7v2kH-avMWEEG8nwrmGqWzTsKIbhpmgB-6osr4zwVXhfwucx9Bb8d237eLMCsoe6N840dugY9N4UwkuQQtCyOnQ0/s1209/20230703_154044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4293RjWxPZTpidkXBDbvzD1tj8LQYAuI9rhiKHz6FRLpjzqtuuqZBbLUD2whAcm6RmK1uvPrUv4Nok1YEYemgY-od1-HXijccZmM7v2kH-avMWEEG8nwrmGqWzTsKIbhpmgB-6osr4zwVXhfwucx9Bb8d237eLMCsoe6N840dugY9N4UwkuQQtCyOnQ0/s320/20230703_154044.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Arrivo e mi scaravento nel museo, perchè il tempo è poco e la collezione vasta. La cosa più fighissima (e uso appositamente questo termine perchè mi entusiasma!) è che il museo non presenta la cultura maya come qualcosa di storicamente concluso, anzi, segnala come, attraverso varie forme di evoluzione e necessario adattamento, sia viva e vegeta fino ai nostri giorni, con un orgoglio e una coscienza della propria identità che l'han salvata, nonostante siano i vinti di questa storia. Probabilmente c'è un desiderio di affermazione, di riscatto, di rivincita, ma è giusto così. Mi piace davvero l'idea che si parli di passato non come di una vetrina polverosa e con le ante chiuse, come un passaggio del cammino che porta a noi, e vive in noi, ogni giorno, in ciò che facciamo e nel modo in cui pensiamo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dunque la visita parte da sale che spiegano chi siano i maya oggi, dove e come vivano, quali lingue parlino, come si vestano (spoiler: con gli huipile, quegli abiti bianchi e con decorazioni floreali che ho visto spesso in questi giorni) e come gli attuali usi siano frutto di sincretismo tra religione e tradizioni preispaniche e cattolicesimo, con il suo calendario e i suoi riti. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFMWzX9IY4Fj-VtxGSeD58qfSLGcoMAUSou35lhCze4yGun2ZJlzQbqZK3YL418hqp6IVF09v8_s0agEbWz8Xbi8HJuBvtDY7mOmjR5ZDRR7vhjVtlhArBAVE_dKYe0aI34wl9VxVcMuvCjmlDh995m2CJppzMswVrX98-k5GR3PSwKRtVW6l485u9HY/s1209/20230703_160852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheFMWzX9IY4Fj-VtxGSeD58qfSLGcoMAUSou35lhCze4yGun2ZJlzQbqZK3YL418hqp6IVF09v8_s0agEbWz8Xbi8HJuBvtDY7mOmjR5ZDRR7vhjVtlhArBAVE_dKYe0aI34wl9VxVcMuvCjmlDh995m2CJppzMswVrX98-k5GR3PSwKRtVW6l485u9HY/s320/20230703_160852.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoh_KKThh4fJ2QmfdwypusACKOzHPcEh9cotKXfcyfi_s3XlozRE7_4begZd7GH7z2d8OaybRn-YUovZdh24z1g8sXyNEttSlC5wFX6Hh0tX-drOKymbGqWdrjZzNgJXRiJ2k_UBkzV_eQAyG-S7eASoQi2B0Yz1grDmp2Qu9Z6eZ5rU0sSAw9-imZuY/s1209/20230703_160903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoh_KKThh4fJ2QmfdwypusACKOzHPcEh9cotKXfcyfi_s3XlozRE7_4begZd7GH7z2d8OaybRn-YUovZdh24z1g8sXyNEttSlC5wFX6Hh0tX-drOKymbGqWdrjZzNgJXRiJ2k_UBkzV_eQAyG-S7eASoQi2B0Yz1grDmp2Qu9Z6eZ5rU0sSAw9-imZuY/s320/20230703_160903.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiexWUlppncQHDsCRZFWr-fuFeey8qyf8v2AgLxBt3jEjQzYpm6iUD3b7rs5W8SRz0AUfRTOxQWcBODOW11NOhUfuOZiPEG-AVMFa4SkWNO1Oh2lFh2MlCrR90-PoAjglVYYBex6CI6bJ-zfTr2MimFDUdXMMDm3PcYHaH15Gvoem27X_lXn2H9_cNaiCs/s1209/20230703_161403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiexWUlppncQHDsCRZFWr-fuFeey8qyf8v2AgLxBt3jEjQzYpm6iUD3b7rs5W8SRz0AUfRTOxQWcBODOW11NOhUfuOZiPEG-AVMFa4SkWNO1Oh2lFh2MlCrR90-PoAjglVYYBex6CI6bJ-zfTr2MimFDUdXMMDm3PcYHaH15Gvoem27X_lXn2H9_cNaiCs/s320/20230703_161403.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbRIKAf9fic73I3DkobP6KPaeoOrJ7o1q4Omqm0y_Sob7V1foWkFB4eU1CKu2sDCaCU4BujD1u4jS5y8siOGRG8eSjI_Zp_JKGr__wQMNHjJZcHtvA6K2gLmgF9VWR4mKzCuOjYbiU7sXl_-_WLSa4-EUdTarWj_ix-UxzaxaxoFjart42Dp6UR87UfUs/s1209/20230703_161413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbRIKAf9fic73I3DkobP6KPaeoOrJ7o1q4Omqm0y_Sob7V1foWkFB4eU1CKu2sDCaCU4BujD1u4jS5y8siOGRG8eSjI_Zp_JKGr__wQMNHjJZcHtvA6K2gLmgF9VWR4mKzCuOjYbiU7sXl_-_WLSa4-EUdTarWj_ix-UxzaxaxoFjart42Dp6UR87UfUs/s320/20230703_161413.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5HFDzJ9-IJAoCdnRNU-BYzNuw0U4-oGyGcD70zHyWGRK406ydqvPAw3yaWQ4Ut6CqVDXYGxa6IhtEsM6tohuYST-o3I8oa9TnmsreTeX3Oc7NrVSSyaMap-kd9VWyEzC3lYsVGsiBKqH9vnjrIq5mQ25L7fDDP__gNSMZt9FtUdFloq2d0aETzTmtYI/s1209/20230703_161423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5HFDzJ9-IJAoCdnRNU-BYzNuw0U4-oGyGcD70zHyWGRK406ydqvPAw3yaWQ4Ut6CqVDXYGxa6IhtEsM6tohuYST-o3I8oa9TnmsreTeX3Oc7NrVSSyaMap-kd9VWyEzC3lYsVGsiBKqH9vnjrIq5mQ25L7fDDP__gNSMZt9FtUdFloq2d0aETzTmtYI/s320/20230703_161423.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">virgen con huipile</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Ci sono poi tutte le testimonianze della conquista<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0_5zHH2aWKLDYBIquPduKhouJaNJRMSGEzj0xl5-c1PT9kpyi1JhIaj_kDawKUVmx-NeB2szYh1nJKCGFQ4qLlq6koonUShrY9X6g4gAonymvRF3LJpeNSVH9R58bTFqC5NIBA-owt_fMa3b71aoIiNHVF_ym5Cs2-AE0t4uAL2323aLo3eYY5CTiP8/s1209/20230703_161640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0_5zHH2aWKLDYBIquPduKhouJaNJRMSGEzj0xl5-c1PT9kpyi1JhIaj_kDawKUVmx-NeB2szYh1nJKCGFQ4qLlq6koonUShrY9X6g4gAonymvRF3LJpeNSVH9R58bTFqC5NIBA-owt_fMa3b71aoIiNHVF_ym5Cs2-AE0t4uAL2323aLo3eYY5CTiP8/s320/20230703_161640.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlRM_06t4iiXW8FJy3h2uKnXJd_CH19Ke3__VYE4fF_5Z3dSuiuqfMY9aTv_lNwVq7OAzLzuGf_3jT8wDjsJ_ChsULuoeHEYpivHh6-zSmnHlLGVv7us8gsofWyExpaNjYGniLTygTKo-EB9baila5zNF0TESl5wZOZ4bo2MaGKusyCR4zUSAyqLRm70/s1209/20230703_161756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlRM_06t4iiXW8FJy3h2uKnXJd_CH19Ke3__VYE4fF_5Z3dSuiuqfMY9aTv_lNwVq7OAzLzuGf_3jT8wDjsJ_ChsULuoeHEYpivHh6-zSmnHlLGVv7us8gsofWyExpaNjYGniLTygTKo-EB9baila5zNF0TESl5wZOZ4bo2MaGKusyCR4zUSAyqLRm70/s320/20230703_161756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKguuV-in28pLHkh1xn-3TkL_dAngYOAroCUOjSQOG7djc-DSFh7_8I8EWuRjdUhhpO19uuVDgfOXTYWIgkg_tf49WIVXgIzzQtjM62ePOgW1hdTnopJUTgkul7zD-_T40x6rJzC25Wlel_gW3kcFbU2MrZGg4Ki86_bSvFT-sjtLSo_Pcokf-bGBGGDU/s1209/20230703_161822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKguuV-in28pLHkh1xn-3TkL_dAngYOAroCUOjSQOG7djc-DSFh7_8I8EWuRjdUhhpO19uuVDgfOXTYWIgkg_tf49WIVXgIzzQtjM62ePOgW1hdTnopJUTgkul7zD-_T40x6rJzC25Wlel_gW3kcFbU2MrZGg4Ki86_bSvFT-sjtLSo_Pcokf-bGBGGDU/s320/20230703_161822.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santiago matamoros della reconquista qui diventa Santiago mataindios</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWWcMmwbE3S3xCQRlBhw6vvR3BBldTH-eYq5fl8j2a7IaGagHD0BErz-WhlxoEHaSgq0dSSEMIMiK6PMg-lTnsVgUERyyw8EqA6PlQIt1Y9t1jZEWzwDSoBvvDfqcrIpGSGTpJuMsqJY-JdVk3nLPBpjzE4QtkrTDSW7K6TJBkQ3gJtbpCI4nQzEcFE0/s1209/20230703_162009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWWcMmwbE3S3xCQRlBhw6vvR3BBldTH-eYq5fl8j2a7IaGagHD0BErz-WhlxoEHaSgq0dSSEMIMiK6PMg-lTnsVgUERyyw8EqA6PlQIt1Y9t1jZEWzwDSoBvvDfqcrIpGSGTpJuMsqJY-JdVk3nLPBpjzE4QtkrTDSW7K6TJBkQ3gJtbpCI4nQzEcFE0/s320/20230703_162009.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">maschere di Abramo e Isacco usato per danze di conversione al cattolicesimo</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Si affrontano poi i temi della schiavitù, dello sfruttamento, del regime dell'apartheid e della conseguente guerra delle caste<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLinnxgmX2s3LJqHalS7lKyQyUMC5cfwx8wIRRtKIivbFTDX0a64dtPm5VB1DWJdk5jXx_a6zOHJ_cgJ8b08vFGgS1B2ioxh8V5_oOFpQ-kkFXnx_JK-f9Zpd1LDuPaFndDDt1qWwh_Rh_kgodJUV4o_u99lBgLhY2yoJgmxsEbM-ivgciyEXrePArig/s1209/20230703_162032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLinnxgmX2s3LJqHalS7lKyQyUMC5cfwx8wIRRtKIivbFTDX0a64dtPm5VB1DWJdk5jXx_a6zOHJ_cgJ8b08vFGgS1B2ioxh8V5_oOFpQ-kkFXnx_JK-f9Zpd1LDuPaFndDDt1qWwh_Rh_kgodJUV4o_u99lBgLhY2yoJgmxsEbM-ivgciyEXrePArig/s320/20230703_162032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Questi documenti dimostrano che i maya che aveva studiato nei conventi usarono il latino per trascrivere le conoscenze tradizionali del loro popolo, fino ad allora trasmesse solo oralmente, per salvarle dall'oblio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lGM9MidcQxv-BIhZLwleBOF8a5OFRWLtXsHJ9KXnZr45rJiNFvJf9k2xFhLdh-kzFCOsBvWvQ8LC9ifzI0It310RUKkBrIsng8MYxPBmj_twDBBen3_j3gcE5xE2t5uv_sV8EPIrlKwPiR80pOL5BTUwD1GXTrwDk05sfDJFkp5MBfmzHd9Wv2QVnfc/s1209/20230703_162301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2lGM9MidcQxv-BIhZLwleBOF8a5OFRWLtXsHJ9KXnZr45rJiNFvJf9k2xFhLdh-kzFCOsBvWvQ8LC9ifzI0It310RUKkBrIsng8MYxPBmj_twDBBen3_j3gcE5xE2t5uv_sV8EPIrlKwPiR80pOL5BTUwD1GXTrwDk05sfDJFkp5MBfmzHd9Wv2QVnfc/s320/20230703_162301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0hM6GL8LoLj5M7iVh7g4vpcBasQ8h0JFCGJHYb1Y8yVB11ZBL251qZPCKju2wW6G1XjovDQBygGNcrupDE_5WWxsyvp7SuFEwVDQQtGSbr0w_jn0nK_rIWwjZAcqwk74M2Mf3M3npmda7DD5ToCT00BIUiMA_j5JKMKbmGwExjzfiEZMEXmNtV1urt2k/s1209/20230703_162309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0hM6GL8LoLj5M7iVh7g4vpcBasQ8h0JFCGJHYb1Y8yVB11ZBL251qZPCKju2wW6G1XjovDQBygGNcrupDE_5WWxsyvp7SuFEwVDQQtGSbr0w_jn0nK_rIWwjZAcqwk74M2Mf3M3npmda7DD5ToCT00BIUiMA_j5JKMKbmGwExjzfiEZMEXmNtV1urt2k/s320/20230703_162309.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Solo dopo sono esposti i reperti provenienti dai siti archeologici, alcuni dei quali già visitati, altri ancora da scoprire, per me.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1iZBhcUkS2G642NIDXS7m5QX2OsciGw-WhOEASA9q842XaYC754xMIpdTsIpEghFAiNfUm8tLjNp-w4kL3Y9Cujmz8NRmOPBFm6wmQKg1ww_5fiMwisI_-v1FfaE8boXRyA5NtgihR-4QtIEhKGE50aIBtCEF1P_0IZWcuBnoMAQeVV7UZvXJv69ZxDE/s1209/20230703_163037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH-sGpXcZGQsvFpKq7NBN3TqTjkBkxDU546RQx-5uu5_87fsHb9ABNrEtt7168z1Y5PQYMj5T25aX1ZJraT_UtuLCB2_HHG9hz9Qj-NLAxsX6SYid85f4FYOH4fK6H5_5QhuGWPL4CPdUNARCfrovIRrfzB4SaV6t7mj00ZfF-EPP95bJNeFIMqpNrJPI/s320/20230703_163512.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtEnpQwBEvo2duGSyM0WC_QM2qTuznwd0SrNfN9UYtWgRXgPljeChnXSlASfyWka3TO0ZAoJYTbVvKnucUEc1bDh0Ix0rPC_00pigV7dDsnDxFPRMNw5Cy9JqtNdKpNWR2JGxnyFQF5e7U15cWv2JwvNpannKOysfUHMJgWEH0OCGmC5ciGRxDJ09mN_w/s1209/20230703_163620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtEnpQwBEvo2duGSyM0WC_QM2qTuznwd0SrNfN9UYtWgRXgPljeChnXSlASfyWka3TO0ZAoJYTbVvKnucUEc1bDh0Ix0rPC_00pigV7dDsnDxFPRMNw5Cy9JqtNdKpNWR2JGxnyFQF5e7U15cWv2JwvNpannKOysfUHMJgWEH0OCGmC5ciGRxDJ09mN_w/s320/20230703_163620.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il famoso calendario</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhGtIQxxdTgqMAjKofmuNicvoKDwggqOVAWKMQ0LMtgiVx72ay-KHb_E3nvAXWxOPINTZTbrpRBEhj4KpFrkg358Zcj5zBYjRkajlJslhQneqxnElQx4D6fB8IBFQo6IZVLBiaQ0C6aSlA2mQ1we79fsbEtz6LX2GlWL_wZL7hcLrlf_L5V7cvASrsGQ/s320/20230703_164332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi761wfUHML24To52PLmVOMCz9yVqNMqBMkZG7fl-7E038trEIEX2nRCeqlMKhz1l3vLX7GR6KEvSR_tB76u29BHiq8TVqWhMjy1vzWMIFXcZnJc-l2DNJacFgYLzZYm9h_T3W8Tzymg7X0Ts8qUq_4aDI0oSLauiSANWWTasf77doNA9q_-k40KbyvH1w/s1209/20230703_164404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi761wfUHML24To52PLmVOMCz9yVqNMqBMkZG7fl-7E038trEIEX2nRCeqlMKhz1l3vLX7GR6KEvSR_tB76u29BHiq8TVqWhMjy1vzWMIFXcZnJc-l2DNJacFgYLzZYm9h_T3W8Tzymg7X0Ts8qUq_4aDI0oSLauiSANWWTasf77doNA9q_-k40KbyvH1w/s320/20230703_164404.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeMS5lN4ijWbUb4to-4Qk-dHWos7M1f0il_tSS2ndzi1HkdLOtcxUkZw7E0cBU2e5xtkA3XUfrEOZCAQBhXmOFLsGGSmyJRl4i2aF19UILdTrj_gMwxhhi5oU1VAuLdBi6wREnpvqxdrPgFZZFMrDj-QN5p90ldph45avKkOhWko7DhnkI-OUny6UTeIU/s1209/20230703_164416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeMS5lN4ijWbUb4to-4Qk-dHWos7M1f0il_tSS2ndzi1HkdLOtcxUkZw7E0cBU2e5xtkA3XUfrEOZCAQBhXmOFLsGGSmyJRl4i2aF19UILdTrj_gMwxhhi5oU1VAuLdBi6wREnpvqxdrPgFZZFMrDj-QN5p90ldph45avKkOhWko7DhnkI-OUny6UTeIU/s320/20230703_164416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjhJWZ_kBJXxy1vTe8mkI7RO1oPZnRqK9MqXekovi98cp41RESLMIssM0tjTsuqtVUJgbSidu1SI3wL3g6WD0scJqmudYRWGgiORLiRZ7N0wtFyOJQxIqaZRnHoDbxAarudwgT1evXKakhKBE9Y1fpv7_t52MpeehP6gtsFqczyYJGkKcm68pNXY9PIY/s1209/20230703_164457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjhJWZ_kBJXxy1vTe8mkI7RO1oPZnRqK9MqXekovi98cp41RESLMIssM0tjTsuqtVUJgbSidu1SI3wL3g6WD0scJqmudYRWGgiORLiRZ7N0wtFyOJQxIqaZRnHoDbxAarudwgT1evXKakhKBE9Y1fpv7_t52MpeehP6gtsFqczyYJGkKcm68pNXY9PIY/s320/20230703_164457.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJqdE2NsreqU5vJ8C4zJgryslyejV03-dmI993VyNTF-XprIAvpzg_X9O5_iK69THcdieu6b6jRqjdERjcZxcRelbGgRMFEqQm4sf2vIw6WveMT4HJqyZAMm0rj4EYW14buQFtPWiy7CN_meT4nC_g_IJeyQna-cf2hNqawmsSi0KS-nrdSdxYGFp0CE/s979/20230703_164544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJqdE2NsreqU5vJ8C4zJgryslyejV03-dmI993VyNTF-XprIAvpzg_X9O5_iK69THcdieu6b6jRqjdERjcZxcRelbGgRMFEqQm4sf2vIw6WveMT4HJqyZAMm0rj4EYW14buQFtPWiy7CN_meT4nC_g_IJeyQna-cf2hNqawmsSi0KS-nrdSdxYGFp0CE/s320/20230703_164544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La visita si conclude con interessanti video immersivi che riguardano le principali credenze religiose, su tutte quella del sacrificio quotidiano del sole, che al tramonto scendeva nell'inframondo degli inferi e dei morti, e, dopo cruenta battaglia, ogni mattina risorgeva al cielo a portare vita.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Esco dal museo ben contenta e soddisfatta: ora ho strumenti in più per decifrare ciò che stiamo vedendo ogni giorno. Diluvia ancora, fuori. Mi imbatto nel pulcino di qualcosa (sembra uno struzzo in miniatura) che per un po' mi segue. Poi, per fortuna, ritrova il suo albero. Dall'esterno apprezzo la forma del museo, che richiama la ceiba, l'albero sacro dei maya che collegava i mondi: radici nell'oltretomba, tronco nel mondo degli uomini, chioma in cielo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmTLxQYJztluhrVKwTZP7m2B5SKPGII-0vn4vm2wGv59SB48CbvWq1dFf6UL2EE8CkCkQnjRZMe_Y3SrqiuF4UoBRlPQj6JsO4HV6hLXuYipRDrXavVRYFgPDlBOsfVKC23z_NtFMha6cfQGpZfsb_HwhxRd93WpBTYUNDa7K8GXcVJZXQiuJAYzkemRU/s1209/20230703_170131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmTLxQYJztluhrVKwTZP7m2B5SKPGII-0vn4vm2wGv59SB48CbvWq1dFf6UL2EE8CkCkQnjRZMe_Y3SrqiuF4UoBRlPQj6JsO4HV6hLXuYipRDrXavVRYFgPDlBOsfVKC23z_NtFMha6cfQGpZfsb_HwhxRd93WpBTYUNDa7K8GXcVJZXQiuJAYzkemRU/s320/20230703_170131.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJsbBUXBZ7YV3GDO3Lsh3Dbx-zSHoLHQOdOQ0gb1d44EjmFi5crPM2o0xWtSi_F8Y9svmaMixXzF1uI-FdMWN2JWBZHCwr1ikfSiGszM37voK5EkNoMVOgbZTDlS9a3idBN_Qx7ts3ZwjYjCLqhUi0FgB3WHFe570hv4US9_3wRADyLnvQ3QQE1i6Y6E/s1209/20230703_170418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJsbBUXBZ7YV3GDO3Lsh3Dbx-zSHoLHQOdOQ0gb1d44EjmFi5crPM2o0xWtSi_F8Y9svmaMixXzF1uI-FdMWN2JWBZHCwr1ikfSiGszM37voK5EkNoMVOgbZTDlS9a3idBN_Qx7ts3ZwjYjCLqhUi0FgB3WHFe570hv4US9_3wRADyLnvQ3QQE1i6Y6E/s320/20230703_170418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-Ka4pv1RMwrgPXCub0RBlb0RdrVQ9ZfE9H4E_7d8biaO12ASpr0VJKs10cfkOG93zc1kVgi7JlQScnQSNNUQIwSN7PvLMqHEU7w-C11QNaVbHtygoZj433RocveYn4J5KuEgxWm2uLewWw_Y946deNXWN_mPuSt_spTO8OABCMqQ19j_FJ32j05-xec/s1210/20230703_170550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-Ka4pv1RMwrgPXCub0RBlb0RdrVQ9ZfE9H4E_7d8biaO12ASpr0VJKs10cfkOG93zc1kVgi7JlQScnQSNNUQIwSN7PvLMqHEU7w-C11QNaVbHtygoZj433RocveYn4J5KuEgxWm2uLewWw_Y946deNXWN_mPuSt_spTO8OABCMqQ19j_FJ32j05-xec/s320/20230703_170550.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAeNU0uBK72xO4TKs48vJwax3iBgRoPACPa_Fyh1j6lQe0llqAMP2ReG2Y134dix4qz_JD1kXQeKYDegeRJeVk95B7FjikfMQW8ygoWhsQ_fhhqRKUW5_Ss8NgTxnb4pvoMt3RyE-71-ujqS-1pO1-T5IgsN00vxNCaVODtJ6AAuFMrnk2e60ZLmjnFY/s1209/20230703_170759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAeNU0uBK72xO4TKs48vJwax3iBgRoPACPa_Fyh1j6lQe0llqAMP2ReG2Y134dix4qz_JD1kXQeKYDegeRJeVk95B7FjikfMQW8ygoWhsQ_fhhqRKUW5_Ss8NgTxnb4pvoMt3RyE-71-ujqS-1pO1-T5IgsN00vxNCaVODtJ6AAuFMrnk2e60ZLmjnFY/s320/20230703_170759.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Inizia qui l'odissea del ritorno: i bus non passano, poi passano ma son pieni e non fermano. Quando salgo il traffico è tale che, per una decina di kilometri, impieghiamo oltre un'ora. E' ormai quasi ora di cena, quindi mi dedico alla spesa, da portare direttamente in hotel rientrando. Vedo finalmente come funziona un supermercato messicano e quanta idea di opulenza e abbuffo bulimico possa dare. Il pane si compra a vassoiate, tutto è immenso: le torte, i polli arrosto, le confezioni di biscotti. E' una bolgia e mi ci perdo. Fortunatamente trovo tutto il necessario, recupero lo zaino (è vietatissimo entrare nei negozi con lo zaino) e torno in albergo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Qui trovo Gigi che sembra in forma. Al punto che si è appena preso, alla reception, quello che lui chiama gelato, ma è una gelatina bianca (latte gelificato?) con pezzi di gelatina sminuzzati rossi e verdi. La porcheria più sbagliata per uno che ha le maledizioni intestinali! Non posso lasciarlo da solo un attimo, mannaggina.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi615C-VbZPue5m5gBo-1ARzu8Bp8t3OgQ7cev1YsnuY9euYTyhcXA1jLqjLhSouL8Hrpw9q-lF4IpXlBjZQQR4HQqklZNsxooeHtmqjbAJ349BdgIlp-Wt6s6EIrR4z1TjTZ__SMDaY_XTAEH-S4feqqG22IGJK3s3_vGFUzBc-GoP4lANjQ4GorsnfdM/s1209/20230703_203749.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi615C-VbZPue5m5gBo-1ARzu8Bp8t3OgQ7cev1YsnuY9euYTyhcXA1jLqjLhSouL8Hrpw9q-lF4IpXlBjZQQR4HQqklZNsxooeHtmqjbAJ349BdgIlp-Wt6s6EIrR4z1TjTZ__SMDaY_XTAEH-S4feqqG22IGJK3s3_vGFUzBc-GoP4lANjQ4GorsnfdM/s320/20230703_203749.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo la necessaria doccia, durante la cena, discutiamo del percorso e delle modalità per i prossimi giorni. Sono fortemente indecisa perchè le cose da vedere sono troppe, ma una esclude l'altra per questioni di kilometraggio e tempi. Quindi, dopo un paio d'ore di studio, ne vengo a capo così: domani lasciamo Mérida e facciamo tappa a Uxmal, che non è una città ma ha delle strutture intorno alle rovine archeologiche (anch'esse patrimonio Unesco). Poi scenderemo lungo la ruta Puuc, costellata di resti maya, e in tre giorni circa, dovremmo raggiungere San Francisco de Campeche, capitale dell'omonimo stato. Da lì torneremo verso l'entroterra, per visitare la riserva di Calakmul. Domani si vedrà se Gigi sia in grado di pedalare o meno. Altrimenti faremo come già sperimentato: lui in bus, io in sella. </div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-42628485385127030852023-07-01T07:25:00.004+02:002023-07-01T07:25:46.119+02:007-9. Pedalare nei pueblos maya. "No soy gringa!", archeologia, natura e una storia piena di nodi, che oggi vengono al pettine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtvP6RaelDfS43sf68JW_yc0GCz__dkm81tKFC0qxBJx_ChHtmuSwmdlL6GROUEERl6ZuKQjmX2Mn7J0niM8Hef9iyVkeh-Tyvl-ccHQdylRtapUkayzWJI-1ePAdWHmhAvGTG7s7sW4E_1q-WCdoRNoFimvy-Y3urmZjpY8S7xX4Q6QJrFmA4OZNPa8/s1209/20230630_103924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtvP6RaelDfS43sf68JW_yc0GCz__dkm81tKFC0qxBJx_ChHtmuSwmdlL6GROUEERl6ZuKQjmX2Mn7J0niM8Hef9iyVkeh-Tyvl-ccHQdylRtapUkayzWJI-1ePAdWHmhAvGTG7s7sW4E_1q-WCdoRNoFimvy-Y3urmZjpY8S7xX4Q6QJrFmA4OZNPa8/w640-h480/20230630_103924.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPDYwKhdbfpn6n5WGDQ8j1pMly1Kr6fQ_B4mGiXOyJrOXNrUeLOEc3nAFiPy3I24BzxBYrZzpuypWxQ4TQielmL04obRLPvZGy2HqZWmxeZv20yHbAUySQjSGD2nO6NMDJja-rFMEk7vTvhi0zUrgdThbd5Gx7t6hRFyrdpD9rlJiNCxzZqnyzvh1JzRk/s1209/20230630_104509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPDYwKhdbfpn6n5WGDQ8j1pMly1Kr6fQ_B4mGiXOyJrOXNrUeLOEc3nAFiPy3I24BzxBYrZzpuypWxQ4TQielmL04obRLPvZGy2HqZWmxeZv20yHbAUySQjSGD2nO6NMDJja-rFMEk7vTvhi0zUrgdThbd5Gx7t6hRFyrdpD9rlJiNCxzZqnyzvh1JzRk/w640-h480/20230630_104509.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3-QjhAA22_ysP3jkhh1sEJod3-DKnGUkAWC-uMKS-6ZWFG2PPgMgRwbZAvqaR1ovPUsCupZHykJrbOyBI3pxPFzQ3XiybPo1syeLehgaEHNpElhUh71iLFP-etZlOjdU2Wa43oEyqecsO86WeanBUS16FENzgHxOMqr8A-_LwE1eeVj6WIbi9833DE44/s1209/20230630_123234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3-QjhAA22_ysP3jkhh1sEJod3-DKnGUkAWC-uMKS-6ZWFG2PPgMgRwbZAvqaR1ovPUsCupZHykJrbOyBI3pxPFzQ3XiybPo1syeLehgaEHNpElhUh71iLFP-etZlOjdU2Wa43oEyqecsO86WeanBUS16FENzgHxOMqr8A-_LwE1eeVj6WIbi9833DE44/w640-h480/20230630_123234.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKStGuHSGanksk-xcwAJ7wD4TseML5oDQswtNia8Uau9KTX312iqC8d-w9F5FtuBqsOOgXqAAZB3upJRvg0AotRYl8EfvKepOvmK-ucsmouBXgx3sd4j762fRxaRBvyrDk6aewgCUVKCZtp7GEXSqVsi4Yc7giQEbnitro0rA6mZROHhxP1KoyKzqvY8/s1209/20230630_141121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKStGuHSGanksk-xcwAJ7wD4TseML5oDQswtNia8Uau9KTX312iqC8d-w9F5FtuBqsOOgXqAAZB3upJRvg0AotRYl8EfvKepOvmK-ucsmouBXgx3sd4j762fRxaRBvyrDk6aewgCUVKCZtp7GEXSqVsi4Yc7giQEbnitro0rA6mZROHhxP1KoyKzqvY8/w640-h480/20230630_141121.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">28/6</div><div style="text-align: left;">Cancun-Leona Vicario</div><div style="text-align: left;">65km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Passiamo diverse ore della notte a rimontare le bici e a riordinare tutto il nostro bagaglio nelle borse. È un'arte, come sa chi viaggia senza motore. Per fortuna è tutto integro e nulla si è perso. O meglio, si era perso proprio tutto! L'omino dei bagagli è stato gentile e ha fatto il possibile per far fronte all'incompetenza, al menefreghismo da corsa al risparmio e al facciaculismo della compagnia per cui lavora. Ieri sera stava per farci correre, a mezzanotte, all'aeroporto, perché è pure stato fermato alla dogana e sembrava volessero fargli pagare una tassa sull'importazione di quella che pareva essere "troppa roba". Ha avuto una crisi di nervi, una di piantino isterico con tanto di vocale a dimostrarlo, ma poi è riuscito a risolvere. Non vi dico le espressioni dello staff dell'hotel, che ormai ci conosce e pensava avessimo perso uno zainetto e un trolley, quando siamo passati nella hall con tutti i nostri pacchi giganti! In ogni caso ci siamo dati da fare e, intorno alle 3, era quasi tutto pronto.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Stamattina ci siamo alzati inevitabilmente più tardi del solito, e siamo usciti piuttosto in fretta, con le bici, per gonfiare bene le gomme con l'aria compressa del benzinaio (benedetti adattatori per le valvole!) e comprare qualcosa per colazione. Sbrighiamo queste faccende e torniamo in camera a capire, tra un sorso di caffè freddo e l'altro, quale sia la miglior strada da percorrere, ora che tutta la mia traccia è saltata e va ripensata per questi primi giorni. Facciamo una breve ricerca per iniziare a distinguere le autostrade (a pedaggio, con "cuota", vietate alle bici) e le strade "libre". Questo ci aiuta a improvvisare il nuovo percorso, insieme all'utilissima funzione di Street view che ci permette di capire la qualità delle strade, il fondo, il bordo pedalabile o meno...</span></div><div class="yj6qo"></div><div class="adL" dir="auto"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaPkiTQjRTfPHYRhdGA7CXQlvHEAFcfvi8PkuVw2vJgz8bGzsYpM1X7WNU7vbavJByM2RRr7KmD9hnVB3LYqERwO_UuiZwOrlACHw6HiSykVr7zsGDr90013TvyI82MkxfFYwFub20QA-ZTr7rkfoYBhDosTDpuyyLySh4Jxh3cYw6ikwbUhoGBLi9wA/s1209/20230628_100140.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvaPkiTQjRTfPHYRhdGA7CXQlvHEAFcfvi8PkuVw2vJgz8bGzsYpM1X7WNU7vbavJByM2RRr7KmD9hnVB3LYqERwO_UuiZwOrlACHw6HiSykVr7zsGDr90013TvyI82MkxfFYwFub20QA-ZTr7rkfoYBhDosTDpuyyLySh4Jxh3cYw6ikwbUhoGBLi9wA/s320/20230628_100140.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5Hrf93mj6akW5lW9EZQxwjs9wCPeUoBcCesUwxlTvwzqgwHl73QLM40YnwDnQeKY97Z-KIPjXhVSE7mYW1l7sjZ3Sh0lXqOHKe4jw_RgrTS6032klMEUtZMfuQ1ARWDcb-UhGupDPXnG3hHQyXyBTWEF-J3oiTFg7YkmffTk6E2ukTTWSFnpGA_Wq_4/s979/20230628_103023.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5Hrf93mj6akW5lW9EZQxwjs9wCPeUoBcCesUwxlTvwzqgwHl73QLM40YnwDnQeKY97Z-KIPjXhVSE7mYW1l7sjZ3Sh0lXqOHKe4jw_RgrTS6032klMEUtZMfuQ1ARWDcb-UhGupDPXnG3hHQyXyBTWEF-J3oiTFg7YkmffTk6E2ukTTWSFnpGA_Wq_4/s320/20230628_103023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In questo modo, nel giro di poco, riusciamo ad abbozzare una traccia che non è bella come quella che avevo preparato, ma ci porta dove dobbiamo in breve e, speriamo, in sicurezza. Bene, è ora di uscire. La calle chiama. Chiudiamo le borse, indossiamo i vestiti da bici (che non salgono, la pelle sempre bagnaticcia e l'umidità fanno attrito) e siamo pronti ad affrontare i nostri primi colpi di pedale messicani. Appena usciamo in strada il caldo ci prende a mazzate, e continuerà a farlo per tutto il giorno. Il primo obiettivo è uscire da Cancun, che non è grande ma ha un discreto traffico di auto, bus, combis, motorini e mototaxi strombazzanti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDh_MkafKBkd-15-ySIKhC1-5huaZWVi0DA40vAet5QPdnPEk4LX-U52Z3nKS2RRJ4qVYPK3AIvmDZEHJbn9soRiE1gWKvyEwlip24KrY1jp7X_AegwknDnxneQT25UiDxl5vkmm6D_-GGl2lerybkUK5HEDYVa1JsxRMImMboeHZXUmSYJBs6W64zE4E/s1210/20230628_114521.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDh_MkafKBkd-15-ySIKhC1-5huaZWVi0DA40vAet5QPdnPEk4LX-U52Z3nKS2RRJ4qVYPK3AIvmDZEHJbn9soRiE1gWKvyEwlip24KrY1jp7X_AegwknDnxneQT25UiDxl5vkmm6D_-GGl2lerybkUK5HEDYVa1JsxRMImMboeHZXUmSYJBs6W64zE4E/s320/20230628_114521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoK6MU3ngJuXBQF36kQ9yKokULR-z5AlC8RyUClHIyUrIBwhdtGdNmB9aG1O6ndwWhLxY1wYX4moLiOFxLJ9RrPa0GKJgsibAxB1VKYWBw7DzijhIPTWldfV9B4dSmfhMpWff1FZEMiVbobWeMhQdHUYv-5f90vzQ-AXP4kblsaakuG7WVLmo4a16HIKY/s1209/20230628_114529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoK6MU3ngJuXBQF36kQ9yKokULR-z5AlC8RyUClHIyUrIBwhdtGdNmB9aG1O6ndwWhLxY1wYX4moLiOFxLJ9RrPa0GKJgsibAxB1VKYWBw7DzijhIPTWldfV9B4dSmfhMpWff1FZEMiVbobWeMhQdHUYv-5f90vzQ-AXP4kblsaakuG7WVLmo4a16HIKY/s320/20230628_114529.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il costume ancora umido rigorosamente steso sulle borse</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci lasciamo la città alle spalle senza troppe difficoltà. C'è traffico ma le strade sono abbastanza ampie e, soprattutto, i guidatori non hanno quella fretta e quella cattiveria che trovo ogni volta, in una città a caso: Milano, l'atomo opaco del Male (per citare Pascoli). L'impressione è che tutti vogliano evitare incidenti, perchè romperebbero le balle in primis a loro, e quindi stanno quel minimo attenti a non tirarti sotto, a darti le precedenze dovute e, in generale, a considerarti un utente della strada al pari loro. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Una volta fuori dal centro, imbocchiamo dei vialoni dritti e larghi, quasi vuoti, ai cui lati sorgono strutture turistiche sempre più fatiscenti, con le insegne storte e i cartelli sbiaditi, poi cantieri, e infine, la selva. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtTbolFXGPUAyk0p6vxCZ1yXuX2J_HKAb5xhUMGgKvwj_LlYE53uEZSyUYeVHOysk9STI_nuGNpHMcs4qQu8tSZOW8JAJaHvaUm2glAdcrlcxpP8VAo0pxHTS6Yx59BVvmipHL-Yh9IcZ8GtiYIY9YoOZFjurJBrSfnuh0PGLekSYp6O9jmin9MMtBZMw/s979/20230628_123755.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtTbolFXGPUAyk0p6vxCZ1yXuX2J_HKAb5xhUMGgKvwj_LlYE53uEZSyUYeVHOysk9STI_nuGNpHMcs4qQu8tSZOW8JAJaHvaUm2glAdcrlcxpP8VAo0pxHTS6Yx59BVvmipHL-Yh9IcZ8GtiYIY9YoOZFjurJBrSfnuh0PGLekSYp6O9jmin9MMtBZMw/s320/20230628_123755.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiQf8o9GQkDaUkSsNgc8ZFrFhjjZP4u6PvdcjTSJD3DRj8DN3I4l56iDuMjwrLdaun9pNvAKvnBS3fNeBbxoOhctUSVY_wpI44aTwUvdy3K5Kf73qCL0balWQIy4OXudo45GBkIu1fvB_Fl4aVmm9mVuKCagOlq65erb8HGYucFqGB5lGDmcmYf_akuo/s1209/20230628_125818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiQf8o9GQkDaUkSsNgc8ZFrFhjjZP4u6PvdcjTSJD3DRj8DN3I4l56iDuMjwrLdaun9pNvAKvnBS3fNeBbxoOhctUSVY_wpI44aTwUvdy3K5Kf73qCL0balWQIy4OXudo45GBkIu1fvB_Fl4aVmm9mVuKCagOlq65erb8HGYucFqGB5lGDmcmYf_akuo/s320/20230628_125818.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCz07PjD8Te2-Ef_13hw5VGQptdmz_YhkejInyNLZNXqXH_jY6tICsZwqdk0yqFGgWqvlmffP0x2B_lgVBqOfaCYjIlr51l13VsiZYi6XBk8xHV0qHn2pI_apugZW3tMs6zr7glNoV7zHnkoVJiKukDZrek9cKWSNY-ACGwUIguh4Z9Cl7HYUCXsuerwI/s1209/20230628_125821.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCz07PjD8Te2-Ef_13hw5VGQptdmz_YhkejInyNLZNXqXH_jY6tICsZwqdk0yqFGgWqvlmffP0x2B_lgVBqOfaCYjIlr51l13VsiZYi6XBk8xHV0qHn2pI_apugZW3tMs6zr7glNoV7zHnkoVJiKukDZrek9cKWSNY-ACGwUIguh4Z9Cl7HYUCXsuerwI/s320/20230628_125821.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Qua e là compare un paesino, che di solita consta di tre case di cui due capanne, qualche bodeguita, qualche zozzone a pedali che fa le tortas (panini) o i tacos -street food autentico e autenticamente peligroso per la mia delicata flora intestinale- e un baretto. Poi raggiungiamo la strada 180, che corre parallela all'autostrada, e non ne usciamo più fino all'arrivo. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzb6s6zkm9fIL3b4YDGs0plkNyA8wD1nom9nBHwzZolA9opiAAnjgzlmt9JqNYQnz6fKe5qFq5CS-k5KKSHwoCCCiH0zcuck1CQYie0ejlHjZFgNDAddUaqan8j7HB8DDN19hfaHb6Xmf9KWJs-ZMjRuBD0p0ZCfXAJuWrN2ZtEqJJIvDFL9E1bxmbPc/s1209/20230628_133751.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhzb6s6zkm9fIL3b4YDGs0plkNyA8wD1nom9nBHwzZolA9opiAAnjgzlmt9JqNYQnz6fKe5qFq5CS-k5KKSHwoCCCiH0zcuck1CQYie0ejlHjZFgNDAddUaqan8j7HB8DDN19hfaHb6Xmf9KWJs-ZMjRuBD0p0ZCfXAJuWrN2ZtEqJJIvDFL9E1bxmbPc/s320/20230628_133751.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il caldo ci impone soste frequenti: sudiamo tantissimo, beviamo tantissimo. Siamo spugne. Stiamo cominciando ad assaggiare tutti i succhi di frutta e le bibite che il Messico offre. La Coca-Cola è onnipresente e mi pare di aver letto che proprio qui ci sono tra i più alti consumi al mondo, perchè l'imperialismo ha molti volti; non è un caso che in questo paese ci sia anche un problema di obesità.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibmag7FyOqRin6HSPX_aivkvzBRGwV7CeVQVLyijuCENBrS1-w5AABe2bSSvaC4BEy4AcOJNpYRkXj3YCxA-Ollv1sLjwCWX9KeWrvf30rJQrHAz7hNFTE45TMArTDm03XTr70vfzMiY4j-cWiKtXtqxcODmw9VHJ5ZGwMm2hXZsoD8QaRn2Sq9-ZidAs/s1209/20230628_134527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibmag7FyOqRin6HSPX_aivkvzBRGwV7CeVQVLyijuCENBrS1-w5AABe2bSSvaC4BEy4AcOJNpYRkXj3YCxA-Ollv1sLjwCWX9KeWrvf30rJQrHAz7hNFTE45TMArTDm03XTr70vfzMiY4j-cWiKtXtqxcODmw9VHJ5ZGwMm2hXZsoD8QaRn2Sq9-ZidAs/s320/20230628_134527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Purtroppo, dopo nemmeno 40km, dobbiamo fermarci per la prima foratura. Una grossa scheggia di metallo mi si pianta nel copertone e, prima ancora di rendermene conto, ho la ruota a terra. Ci fermiamo all'ombra e Gigi mi aiuta nell'operazione che, temiamo, si ripeterà spesso: il caldo ammorbidisce i copertoni e le strade sono piene di porcherie acuminate e affilate. Quando ci si ferma la cappa di umidità rovente stringe alle tempie e non tira un filo d'aria. Da restarci secchi!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03LmF6jh6Ic0T1YaCLFj4YsVH5ag0wGtsOU06fR5aFa-CzMUgPZI82hBoCmJIWy7guG8BNzciQTqbeZWmntaKnMVwVq__p89LDZJnLvZYzziAuYZq0X5ADTO0tYLLApcU77Ns8Jkx9QoQoAzYm33mlMSuqJ_wxey8BfAF64N6RAJtaD22ckyPn-S9fyo/s1209/20230628_144107.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03LmF6jh6Ic0T1YaCLFj4YsVH5ag0wGtsOU06fR5aFa-CzMUgPZI82hBoCmJIWy7guG8BNzciQTqbeZWmntaKnMVwVq__p89LDZJnLvZYzziAuYZq0X5ADTO0tYLLApcU77Ns8Jkx9QoQoAzYm33mlMSuqJ_wxey8BfAF64N6RAJtaD22ckyPn-S9fyo/s320/20230628_144107.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAGQGRfczFqZkuCkW5zpvP7UDomlybwq_Pafe0sERSoUguAbnKXNLOSWnjWAj05AO8H6o2PPmvg-Ke6Nyw7AMg3dnVr8cbfHBYTINbKRjn-N4YiEXHc4wPkEh5bEZD5e7XWX3Iy5U2EfKa7Hi_acUaU7-SngK-nEIEXSkbAKO-k2L29LLWK9W55ONoKw/s1209/20230628_144113.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAGQGRfczFqZkuCkW5zpvP7UDomlybwq_Pafe0sERSoUguAbnKXNLOSWnjWAj05AO8H6o2PPmvg-Ke6Nyw7AMg3dnVr8cbfHBYTINbKRjn-N4YiEXHc4wPkEh5bEZD5e7XWX3Iy5U2EfKa7Hi_acUaU7-SngK-nEIEXSkbAKO-k2L29LLWK9W55ONoKw/s320/20230628_144113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo e ci troviamo su una striscia d'asfalto che buca la selva. E' un susseguirsi di pueblos di cui si vede solo il cartello con il nome, il sentiero sterrato d'accesso e, talvolta, qualche capanna o casupola con i copertoni appesi ai rami come altalene. Tra un pueblo e l'altro ci sono diversi ranchos, alcuni privati, altri adibiti a strutture ricettive con camere, ristorante e piscina... Che spesso è un cenote! Non mancano anche quelli che, passandoci accanto, mi paiono parchi acquatici, un po' sgualciti, un po' sbiaditi, forse pensati per il turismo interno. Si respira comunque un'aria tranquilla, rilassata, di vacanza. Il traffico è ridotto e, per quanto non ci sia un bordo strada in cui pedalare fuori dalle corsie, i guidatori rallentano e passano larghi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgCO82gbJs-CvXWTjuqht23UyxCSTBlf4Ih1BrhO5fMgBns2xpVGbqDUuANdzTamiXoLxhT5M79KOrSinCUWgxkSsb7A4C7agU-7ZSVb1ru_lpwbejWQn9FzfANzk_lin_rUZA1K-_jWyTpQlaPFnLhsY2BeVNoCYdtx4qycd0iLaZCFmnD5HNZoDrcVc/s1209/20230628_152735.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgCO82gbJs-CvXWTjuqht23UyxCSTBlf4Ih1BrhO5fMgBns2xpVGbqDUuANdzTamiXoLxhT5M79KOrSinCUWgxkSsb7A4C7agU-7ZSVb1ru_lpwbejWQn9FzfANzk_lin_rUZA1K-_jWyTpQlaPFnLhsY2BeVNoCYdtx4qycd0iLaZCFmnD5HNZoDrcVc/s320/20230628_152735.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Quando il caldo comincia a farci lessare i piedi come cotechini raggiungiamo il paese che, stamattina, ci siamo prefissati come meta per la prima tappa (brevis): Leona Vicario. E' ancora presto, ma preferiamo fermarci per poter studiare meglio la strada per i prossimi giorni, tanto più che siamo stanchini e, per qualche decina di kilometri da qui, non ci sono più cittadine ma solo minuscoli villaggi.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Il paese sorge affacciato alla strada, che è la sua spina dorsale. Su questa affacciano i negozi, i ristoranti, la piazza, in un via vai di mototaxi, bici e altri mezzi a pedali e cani randagi, il tutto amalgamato nell'aria polverosa e rovente.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">La cosa che ci colpisce per prima, comunque, resta il muro del camposanto, tutto decorato con i muertitos che fanno cose.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpgNrGU6Yh7IsD4y9gS1iGevSyLyKh5iiK6aA616OPMG8txPzltzjCnXQbZQK9lGCh0YDvdTF9d8WJt_9OOYC6qjAI_bcdl0p52h5-dw93gxGDmXWLBR4GNHvrGMPbuNaVLYTtc_5XlzGvvDiln9IRkDq15xqq2jQ1it7TGWbGxIpl25DroIM22ysEr94/s1209/20230628_162822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpgNrGU6Yh7IsD4y9gS1iGevSyLyKh5iiK6aA616OPMG8txPzltzjCnXQbZQK9lGCh0YDvdTF9d8WJt_9OOYC6qjAI_bcdl0p52h5-dw93gxGDmXWLBR4GNHvrGMPbuNaVLYTtc_5XlzGvvDiln9IRkDq15xqq2jQ1it7TGWbGxIpl25DroIM22ysEr94/s320/20230628_162822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUa-Xsh2rm1AEk6yIeNOS-zy8yhpx9rYOr7pAYHceG7gJirlC6WLxcB03q45Bno3rijnYIUR1RXOnH55bovYQu4AVVYnbsS-nxj0Wpdh6Tjj7dWVA-RMSeYuNk__Iy4mRbAIWidr3wVGPri0Khya6eQiMhiBwI_-qLIJ6T94Dnh8C-BCvE1H3Q19E8kGs/s1209/20230628_162927.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUa-Xsh2rm1AEk6yIeNOS-zy8yhpx9rYOr7pAYHceG7gJirlC6WLxcB03q45Bno3rijnYIUR1RXOnH55bovYQu4AVVYnbsS-nxj0Wpdh6Tjj7dWVA-RMSeYuNk__Iy4mRbAIWidr3wVGPri0Khya6eQiMhiBwI_-qLIJ6T94Dnh8C-BCvE1H3Q19E8kGs/s320/20230628_162927.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWZJgTedqIWHBlRyqu2c_jTabZ2IMSKrHBMJ27GiYCgDzFMvu61wcYyka-69O1P8GoRz3jxqJKH5hHTZPvo0xNNRJP5KKMI34gJ3ODf5A97Z0Fn5HG3D6u1KmDtWEevhJT_mPmQ4Eii1ndYUcLuqU4RdPwHganPMuaEKXsEGgBptjKrYyrETOrRN24EA/s1209/20230628_162930.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWZJgTedqIWHBlRyqu2c_jTabZ2IMSKrHBMJ27GiYCgDzFMvu61wcYyka-69O1P8GoRz3jxqJKH5hHTZPvo0xNNRJP5KKMI34gJ3ODf5A97Z0Fn5HG3D6u1KmDtWEevhJT_mPmQ4Eii1ndYUcLuqU4RdPwHganPMuaEKXsEGgBptjKrYyrETOrRN24EA/s320/20230628_162930.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Torniamo un attimo nella piazza centrale per rinfrescarci le idee e capire in quale albergo fermarci, visto che qui ho notato la presenza di glamping, boutique hotel (ma de che?) e altri luoghi atti a spennare i rari turisti improvvidi. In piazza troviamo il busto di colei che dà nome alla città: Leona Vicario, la rivoluzionaria.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJh_THeXkvnvP57QkMeINDnGVeae7NQrTbhyA8wKkW_5vApGZYBTJBQLTjmnKTCgjKPcfiW2NwdV9X88Kyf6dgrkmolNVSp4ACxuEqJ0FX1eNP7zfMmF9Ode4kq48Lfg_Z3C7nGpsNsq4F4eX1FsIoBZHul_ywPxBVoEY4lJxca9c0KLUkgVNjyI7d4PQ/s1209/20230628_163216.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJh_THeXkvnvP57QkMeINDnGVeae7NQrTbhyA8wKkW_5vApGZYBTJBQLTjmnKTCgjKPcfiW2NwdV9X88Kyf6dgrkmolNVSp4ACxuEqJ0FX1eNP7zfMmF9Ode4kq48Lfg_Z3C7nGpsNsq4F4eX1FsIoBZHul_ywPxBVoEY4lJxca9c0KLUkgVNjyI7d4PQ/s320/20230628_163216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cito da Wikipedia: "Nata da una famiglia creola altolocata, rimase orfana di entrambi i genitori all'età di diciotto anni, ragione per la quale venne affidata allo zio. In quel periodo conobbe Andrés Quintana Roo, un impiegato nell'azienda dello zio. Tutti e due si innamorarono subito, e Andrés chiese presto la mano di Leona, ottenendo una risposta negativa da parte di suo zio, poiché era povero. Questo motivo spinse Leona a fuggire di casa per unirsi a Quintana Roo e a partecipare con lui alla rivoluzione. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Leona si trasferì nella cittadina di Tacuba, dove organizzò un gruppo di donne che appoggiavano la causa dell'indipendenza. Finanziò con la propria fortuna la rivoluzione. Servì come messaggera dei rivoluzionari e anche come spia a Città del Messico, assieme ad altre persone che formavano un'organizzazione segreta.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Venne arrestata il 13 gennaio 1813, essendo stata scoperta la sua partecipazione alla rivoluzione, venne condannata a essere reclusa nel convento di Belen de las Mochas. Ma grazie all'aiuto di tre rivoluzionari travestiti da ufficiali dell'esercito spagnolo riuscì a scappare verso Tlalpujahua dove riuscì finalmente a sposarsi con Andrés.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Leona Vicario, suo marito Quintana Roo e sua figlia Genoveffa furono infine catturati dalle truppe spagnole nel 1818 e successivamente liberati grazie all'indulto concesso dalla Spagna.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Nel 1925 i suoi resti furono spostati alla Colonna dell'Indipendenza.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il paese che porta il suo nome, nello stato omonimo del marito, ha un bel parco centrale, dove i ragazzi giocano nei campetti e la gente passeggia o si gode il fresco. Noi facciamo lo stesso e, dopo una breve ricerca, decidiamo di prendere una stanza in un hotel che abbiamo visto sulla strada.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RGR3E_jEy8oH-j_ZvdiSRxTsJyO-70zGMdtugm6L4HTZynIKee1MtwMs7tc9JNlFf7i5EpGwF2LooZUkn46gHgF4CKJmJUkTsb6ifScxIq36iv1EvFVbPzPpLVuLZAni_bVynuq7YCTnzxpCXGHQVbSTwX6p6kvbAGkF2vQOkN_UQFqfiS2TvYW6T5E/s1209/20230628_163331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RGR3E_jEy8oH-j_ZvdiSRxTsJyO-70zGMdtugm6L4HTZynIKee1MtwMs7tc9JNlFf7i5EpGwF2LooZUkn46gHgF4CKJmJUkTsb6ifScxIq36iv1EvFVbPzPpLVuLZAni_bVynuq7YCTnzxpCXGHQVbSTwX6p6kvbAGkF2vQOkN_UQFqfiS2TvYW6T5E/s320/20230628_163331.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NpGSvJIowVTiyJZuBT30X1dSKMqDPJ6YIrapVGg5670P-0SiqyIvMJvK8Gsjx59tv-RSWBmQ9hosMAVlh0MKKb4QgwAwlFag37UwLZhjb7QEuWZpKGWKAxNNwogASQaQAbb2kv5E9IWuAqDx1KjDHpMuOPMMd71h8r3dWeHvlhSzCLRGCBAMbwetCWE/s1209/20230628_163419.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NpGSvJIowVTiyJZuBT30X1dSKMqDPJ6YIrapVGg5670P-0SiqyIvMJvK8Gsjx59tv-RSWBmQ9hosMAVlh0MKKb4QgwAwlFag37UwLZhjb7QEuWZpKGWKAxNNwogASQaQAbb2kv5E9IWuAqDx1KjDHpMuOPMMd71h8r3dWeHvlhSzCLRGCBAMbwetCWE/s320/20230628_163419.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqa413F38_PGKetdWwTDmLM_lqZPNP8kO_4winXQrLOIzCzlen9g_xY7yd8LNtSNShi-tnZ_Wo8zLZyVaS_jiyk5DCkGR_4RK5YY_t-0HXOSpIX_H1Nz7cPbesIIGucSBUMKIl9zFb-3NpYdcuJ4M9RC-dm_QXnpvVAcWkcy_JLsfAUSvlAeQA9Y3q0ws/s979/20230628_163653.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqa413F38_PGKetdWwTDmLM_lqZPNP8kO_4winXQrLOIzCzlen9g_xY7yd8LNtSNShi-tnZ_Wo8zLZyVaS_jiyk5DCkGR_4RK5YY_t-0HXOSpIX_H1Nz7cPbesIIGucSBUMKIl9zFb-3NpYdcuJ4M9RC-dm_QXnpvVAcWkcy_JLsfAUSvlAeQA9Y3q0ws/s320/20230628_163653.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqud8pW2Zt8Ow1uxMg9q0khcrBOZ72hVTUQ6wSghIJdOwEX-8B0NzRoBsuuEst8iuSEA7uM0nc5hJgW7-DqwuR0c-ySZOHBt5fyYzjoDacVSzupOhxOOhrZFtVytUHWxReX4h-CBmU0EO-1tTq91i0rOEDRRUmgriS0uXaLQGu5gY65gvILdQThhdzwxY/s1210/20230628_165019.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqud8pW2Zt8Ow1uxMg9q0khcrBOZ72hVTUQ6wSghIJdOwEX-8B0NzRoBsuuEst8iuSEA7uM0nc5hJgW7-DqwuR0c-ySZOHBt5fyYzjoDacVSzupOhxOOhrZFtVytUHWxReX4h-CBmU0EO-1tTq91i0rOEDRRUmgriS0uXaLQGu5gY65gvILdQThhdzwxY/s320/20230628_165019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sul prezzo della camera dobbiamo contrattare un po', ma alla fine ne usciamo tutti soddisfatti, noi e il proprietario. Siccome è presto, ci concediamo una bella doccia e un po' di riposo al fresco, sotto al ventilatore (che è il perfetto compromesso tra me e Gigi per non litigare sull'aria condizionata). Mentre attraversiamo il cortile, pur essendoci un sole caldissimo, che illumina tutto, inizia a piovere. Lo spettacolo delle gocce di miele e ambra che accarezzano le foglie rimane impagabile.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj2gxAVxkkFEjZ365b96YNu5ghWti7cZnpSzjiiWgDy5wINUIcose3AKdEKyZV_FizImvBVQCZe27W6ZQ_woqtSxb-Cq4x2YJGvH87Bzprqyym652_UkbJSvVsyt9WOy8Hx2rKqANgXqbfLBXENJekRriXn_ieS47EF0SBjTT7A8whYzD08w1r2yB1h_0/s1209/20230628_170822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj2gxAVxkkFEjZ365b96YNu5ghWti7cZnpSzjiiWgDy5wINUIcose3AKdEKyZV_FizImvBVQCZe27W6ZQ_woqtSxb-Cq4x2YJGvH87Bzprqyym652_UkbJSvVsyt9WOy8Hx2rKqANgXqbfLBXENJekRriXn_ieS47EF0SBjTT7A8whYzD08w1r2yB1h_0/s320/20230628_170822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmtNyW8fZu1oQeyWbhtNuwipL0JssJCwngF0ymbsJ20ZBeXHHb_gsXAc3JM1nYDcV3WvRlmqW7CtxcLyql_Z9iHwR38bFre4xdyNNJuwZvXpNMaMiR9k7V_vWrYJqB5ggbfIWJ8laByNBzvbREojomdUW-DmWk1ZeEdJGRvgZO_fW13fzdiK5WahVFfc4/s1209/20230628_175020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmtNyW8fZu1oQeyWbhtNuwipL0JssJCwngF0ymbsJ20ZBeXHHb_gsXAc3JM1nYDcV3WvRlmqW7CtxcLyql_Z9iHwR38bFre4xdyNNJuwZvXpNMaMiR9k7V_vWrYJqB5ggbfIWJ8laByNBzvbREojomdUW-DmWk1ZeEdJGRvgZO_fW13fzdiK5WahVFfc4/s320/20230628_175020.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Q5GLYxAT35JZgS5TneEwHAhKBZICGmv1aN3VRGmGPAvb5kn_iM69_D781xVmOqO65ITlBCwMc0-C3KgN3FUWybYvhzkgtnT0MCxUa33kEbDkBVbc5NA2xj1fdYM8TxyMZrE8A84G0euntGrg30Bi7UvbeyB3vP0GgWRWVmlyomznJhEaoItN_8av890/s1209/20230628_175028.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Q5GLYxAT35JZgS5TneEwHAhKBZICGmv1aN3VRGmGPAvb5kn_iM69_D781xVmOqO65ITlBCwMc0-C3KgN3FUWybYvhzkgtnT0MCxUa33kEbDkBVbc5NA2xj1fdYM8TxyMZrE8A84G0euntGrg30Bi7UvbeyB3vP0GgWRWVmlyomznJhEaoItN_8av890/s320/20230628_175028.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Si fa ora di cena e decidiamo di uscire adesso che la pioggia ha smesso e l'albergo è calato nell'oscurità per un black out generale. Che qui non siamo in Cancun, ma nemmeno a Tulum o nelle altre grandi città del turismo internazionale si capisce subito. Sulla strada affacciano casette basse e tutte scassate, e una varietà di negozietti che vendono vestiti, alimentari e soprattutto frutta di ogni colore e forma. Non mancano le taquerie, alcune ambulanti, altre no, ma lercine allo stesso modo: sono edifici senza pareti, solo con il tetto che poggia su colonne e il pavimento, spesso tutto in cemento, compresi i mobili delle cucine. La specialità? Taco con cervello di mucca. L'inglese è un vago ricordo e non ci proviamo nemmeno, anche perchè risulteremmo antipatici da subito. Anche con lo spagnolo ci siamo solo a metà, perchè una grande quantità di parole, soprattutto in merito al cibo, sono in lingua locale, maya. Quindi capiamo poco e niente. La pima sciura dove tentiamo di cenare, al secondo tentativo di intenderci, ci volta le spalle e ci fa capire che siamo troppo gringos per lei. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8QjBVhojr0ol5RuLnJyzhzNMMq430jcFhd6EgjrBgF0gr_RScTwL59whOZlmhLGl-hLCCYUemJce5bsE8KnC-z4A2pyjzzhWPSsDApLnGO5HcbpPI9rPnT121hEM4nb1qQqjQd5IQDxUofO7SymmhU7lsvoenUj9tJ-8FEZjl5kQnOEz6NzTtSjFcNBs/s1209/20230628_194106.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8QjBVhojr0ol5RuLnJyzhzNMMq430jcFhd6EgjrBgF0gr_RScTwL59whOZlmhLGl-hLCCYUemJce5bsE8KnC-z4A2pyjzzhWPSsDApLnGO5HcbpPI9rPnT121hEM4nb1qQqjQd5IQDxUofO7SymmhU7lsvoenUj9tJ-8FEZjl5kQnOEz6NzTtSjFcNBs/s320/20230628_194106.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTB2Qw8xgq1admZATzfGy8PeilF_4U785aD5WwxqpI1ml3ZCOyOKi_Nsbllibchl3fNmSwLkvH-ioXTdsYl2bNbSfF4FmaqYSKOs8gzAv2PWc9GHKeUnjgFBAj5y7AxFwXpDtWkLRGHvkJuI8c62xnfw349Jxx-W9EA2qr1LSqWd6r6lpu3tH3DYmmLPQ/s1209/20230628_194342.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTB2Qw8xgq1admZATzfGy8PeilF_4U785aD5WwxqpI1ml3ZCOyOKi_Nsbllibchl3fNmSwLkvH-ioXTdsYl2bNbSfF4FmaqYSKOs8gzAv2PWc9GHKeUnjgFBAj5y7AxFwXpDtWkLRGHvkJuI8c62xnfw349Jxx-W9EA2qr1LSqWd6r6lpu3tH3DYmmLPQ/s320/20230628_194342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1_Gr-8buOkzvuw85wZ1egFbFZ5aEZ5IIn8fMlSSBC3JqfTsYZPOeGmBw6iyWRYzcp7S7b2c4MWLxUcfJa6Hc2byYr61xlpRZ9hlQOuaOvhee8CiVKa_NjGG5GbxZY3bfG-_Nktxg5ND3ftULueA2nrjGTPV3qVLWsneAoFSuJ4j6HBaWFw_N8wyaU58/s1209/20230628_194631.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1_Gr-8buOkzvuw85wZ1egFbFZ5aEZ5IIn8fMlSSBC3JqfTsYZPOeGmBw6iyWRYzcp7S7b2c4MWLxUcfJa6Hc2byYr61xlpRZ9hlQOuaOvhee8CiVKa_NjGG5GbxZY3bfG-_Nktxg5ND3ftULueA2nrjGTPV3qVLWsneAoFSuJ4j6HBaWFw_N8wyaU58/s320/20230628_194631.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><span style="text-align: justify;"><div><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Allora torniamo sui nostri passi e ci fermiamo a quel che noi chiameremmo kebabbaro, anche perchè è orgogliosamente turco, ma si è adattato ai costumi locali e quindi la sua carne non finisce nella pide ma nei tacos di mais. Però con lui riusciamo a intenderci al volo. Intanto destiamo numerosi attenzioni: siamo gli unici turisti. Ci porta i tacos (sostanzialmente ha un solo piatto: tacos con carne kebab) in un piatto untissimo, mai lavato dalla conquista di Costantinopoli, e due scodelle immense di salse: una bianca e una rossa e piccante anche solo allo sguardo. Ovviamente vengo entrambe da enomi contenitori che albergano fuori frigo, anch'essi dalla metà del XV secolo. Quando Cortéz è passato di qui, li ha visti con i suoi occhi. Posate, bicchieri? No! Acqua in bottiglia? Nemmeno! Tovagliolini apparentemente puliti ma pieni di stuzzicadenti usati? A bizzeffe! Cani e canetti che aspettano un po' di avanzi? Certo, porelli, e qualcosa allunghiamo anche noi sotto al tavolo. Il paròn ci chiede anche se ci sia piaciuto tutto, e non possiamo negare, anche se le salsamonelle non le abbiamo sfiorate: too much anche per me.</div></span></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCoR78s86a2KJPgBVvjXTHIHU_I-rnE-PRHUDMCrjpMrEDlzKrd2r1sI60FkuE-MaVHhulhn1p1sb7qBDc0o9CtmjL4VNQy2byd4-C9kldQq-XMDoQX13dAAdtHwCsO22A99G_lS_Z5_U54JFIU6PdZcGzSZyKOVxMWrommavDPz4Olkyil14pssUZZGo/s1209/20230628_195732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCoR78s86a2KJPgBVvjXTHIHU_I-rnE-PRHUDMCrjpMrEDlzKrd2r1sI60FkuE-MaVHhulhn1p1sb7qBDc0o9CtmjL4VNQy2byd4-C9kldQq-XMDoQX13dAAdtHwCsO22A99G_lS_Z5_U54JFIU6PdZcGzSZyKOVxMWrommavDPz4Olkyil14pssUZZGo/s320/20230628_195732.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Siccome abbiamo ancora fame, facciamo un giro in centro a caccia di qualcosa di sfizioso. Intorno alla piazza si affollano i baracchini degli ambulanti, che grigliano e friggono e affettano. L'aria è densa di profumo di carne e fumi di cottura. Persone e randagi si accalcano. Preferiamo proseguire alla ricerca di un fruttivendolo: ce ne sono tanti e sono tutti invitanti. Ne scegliamo uno e facciamo incetta, anche perchè i prezzi sono davvero convenienti. Mi faccio anche spiegare come si mangia il dragon fruit, questo delizioso e coloratissimo frutto di cactus che qui vendono ovunque. Ne compro uno da assaggiare, non mi è mai capitato a casa, per quanto ne abbia visti, nei supermercati. Un po' mi sento provincialotta ignorante, ma onestamente nel Parco Agricolo Sud Milano queste varietà non crescono e un po' mi sento giustificata. Questo è invece il luogo e il momento di assaggiare!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUfoiups-2F_GsMa3T4QNuKZB3WYOsbVRNuaizY3mWtKBrVPAWLLv49vrodzRzA3c72jM90DkWUd3Cy93mpvQ4GyX3ACtQ83lk2AJPhg9ELfwpmQ1qT6j8VvOXAxd8dpoRANsruWG753OS6g4KNK_-UTf81T_OnqnSBgW5R6joL1jWUl6FgjcsP4UzAfQ/s1209/20230628_203004.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUfoiups-2F_GsMa3T4QNuKZB3WYOsbVRNuaizY3mWtKBrVPAWLLv49vrodzRzA3c72jM90DkWUd3Cy93mpvQ4GyX3ACtQ83lk2AJPhg9ELfwpmQ1qT6j8VvOXAxd8dpoRANsruWG753OS6g4KNK_-UTf81T_OnqnSBgW5R6joL1jWUl6FgjcsP4UzAfQ/s320/20230628_203004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggYhJ5E4-9x5_6HmoudGHwOMK1Vit2hDQXrdL6I2yfQDkuhS7h1UkG9vZsC-N4Kr3eFxSZpUX6Z4xUC2991KcRS-oJ4pjMmvYY4eNO3H2acCy6VqpuoSw5IrzCJzo9LbrEYNoT6ReiKp4MGY3ybNrB-D2ONuGa_MLVHAJI9hbYmBwTw4OWMagqsCC5oeU/s1209/20230628_203410.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggYhJ5E4-9x5_6HmoudGHwOMK1Vit2hDQXrdL6I2yfQDkuhS7h1UkG9vZsC-N4Kr3eFxSZpUX6Z4xUC2991KcRS-oJ4pjMmvYY4eNO3H2acCy6VqpuoSw5IrzCJzo9LbrEYNoT6ReiKp4MGY3ybNrB-D2ONuGa_MLVHAJI9hbYmBwTw4OWMagqsCC5oeU/s320/20230628_203410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Rientrando, passiamo per la piazza, dove sentivamo casino da ore fin in albergo. Non capivamo se fosse un concerto o un sermone, ma scopriamo che è un mix in salsa latina. Un predicatore arringa la folla elencando tutti i problemi del mondo (povertà, droga, malavita, prostituzione, solitudine, malessere interiore, malattie...) e per ognuno urla che la soluzione è dio. Ogni tot deve riprendere fiato, e allora attacca la banda alle sue spalle, con tastiera, ottoni e cantante. Ai lati della piazza vendono panini e secchi di spaghetti con wurstel.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGD-Z-urE1w6xqAhwP1jQJrblZ21-FIBjxboG_6yKhcVgragErdYftYCen1o-bcZs5XiAyxCH_hD4uAVdb9R8HPyjFqDYT19xSPtYvR69NgzOwC3rgMujhSM6w-xanC-wLGH4nX1fBpZbXOlUMwYcrvBbzU0urA9lR3UmP1oI5h-hf8i-ygsFDFc4Qsc/s1209/20230628_203627.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGD-Z-urE1w6xqAhwP1jQJrblZ21-FIBjxboG_6yKhcVgragErdYftYCen1o-bcZs5XiAyxCH_hD4uAVdb9R8HPyjFqDYT19xSPtYvR69NgzOwC3rgMujhSM6w-xanC-wLGH4nX1fBpZbXOlUMwYcrvBbzU0urA9lR3UmP1oI5h-hf8i-ygsFDFc4Qsc/s320/20230628_203627.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Assistiamo a qualche minuto di show, poi ci ritiriamo in camera. Scopro che il dragon fruit mi piace tantissimo, e questo è il primo di una lunga serie. Vado anche a leggere due informazioni sul paese in cui ci troviamo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23u36kL1rLcno9ITJWjCq8o1yeMmGe_Snl7T_ciBWMzqzYyzSwoPwQvKRZ3gHRipN0nsI4hxkXPu71pyB0NMyM8yKmIsCtG5ii2oypRRcWeYxNSYp3HMOF8uh80PNXno5YlPomuZaotpPjnkbDxiVcuify5bMZdU8WIgE0lm8gJ-S7e8PRLd4KY74mHo/s1209/20230628_204423.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23u36kL1rLcno9ITJWjCq8o1yeMmGe_Snl7T_ciBWMzqzYyzSwoPwQvKRZ3gHRipN0nsI4hxkXPu71pyB0NMyM8yKmIsCtG5ii2oypRRcWeYxNSYp3HMOF8uh80PNXno5YlPomuZaotpPjnkbDxiVcuify5bMZdU8WIgE0lm8gJ-S7e8PRLd4KY74mHo/s320/20230628_204423.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Questo paese è nato sui resti di una hacienda che trattava chicle (una gomma vegetale usata per le gomme da masticare) e palo de tinte (leguminosa). Lo sfruttamento delle terre era stato concesso dallo Stato messicano alla banca di Londra, sottraendo spazio alle popolazioni native di discendenza maya. Questi, dopo la guerra delle caste, tornarono attaccando i lavoratori della hacienda e facendo massacri, ma poi, vedendo che, nonostante tutto, le terre a loro espropriate non tornavano nelle loro mani, deposero le armi e si misero al soldo dell0hacienda stessa. Nel 1936, per la politica di laicizzazione messa in atto dal governatore di allora, la Hacienda Santa Maria prese il nome di una patriota, appunto Leona Vicario. Dopo la seconda guerra mondiale la richiesta di chicle calò drasticamente e l'hacienda fu chiusa, ma i lavoratori, quasi tutti uomini senza famiglia, rimasero lì, in primis a dedicarsi a scommesse e violenza, poi ad agricoltura e artigianato, dando vita alla cittadina di oggi (visitata più volte da Don Pedro Infante, famoso cantante e attore).</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Insomma, anche qui di prevaricazioni e rivolte, alcune finite bene, altre decisamente meno, ce ne sono state... Sembra un po' la cifra della storia di questo paese, almeno, per quanto visto finora.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo un po' di letture, tracciamo la strada dei prossimi giorni: domani seguiremo la 180 per lasciare lo stato di Quintana Roo ed entrare in Yucatan. Attraverseremo territori maya. Faremo sosta probabilmente a Chemax, cittadina a poco meno di 90km da qui. Dopodomani, invece, saliremo ad Ekbalam e riscenderemo poi a Valladolid. La prima è un pueblo maya con imponenti rovine archeologiche, la seconda una bella città coloniale con chiese ed edifici storici. Il giorno seguente pedaleremo fino a Chichen-Itzà, mentre quello dopo ancora verso Mérida. Qui faremo sosta un giorno, perchè le cose da vedere sono tante!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">29/6</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Leona Vicario - Chemax</div><div style="text-align: justify;">87km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci svegliamo che il sole è già alto, e intuiamo il caldo esterno dalla foschia umida che esala dalle piante dal terreno. Tutti i dolorini della prima pedalata a pieno carico si fanno sentire, accentuati dalla notte con inevitabile aria da ventilatore addosso. Usciamo per racimolare un po' di colazione e ce ne torniamo in camera con una serie di new entry, tipo questo succo di soia e mela che a me piace un sacco, a Gigi decisamente meno.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtv_USGLD1WqxZ2eIlt73TtGkNwB2z-jS_cMqz2kL8PvSYtoTt7FBCcNStDaMOg_WL9P-rH8Xa-hcGBMVq8j6KzZylh980aPSXbcIjAASkYj_fyB7tBH2B9f6DIzDKFQUZuR0YyEq6c1jwBVjO0YrSUcOb7ViaKAwpGWya4BG5DrpjHssSa03EEpyTyUw/s1209/20230629_092804.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtv_USGLD1WqxZ2eIlt73TtGkNwB2z-jS_cMqz2kL8PvSYtoTt7FBCcNStDaMOg_WL9P-rH8Xa-hcGBMVq8j6KzZylh980aPSXbcIjAASkYj_fyB7tBH2B9f6DIzDKFQUZuR0YyEq6c1jwBVjO0YrSUcOb7ViaKAwpGWya4BG5DrpjHssSa03EEpyTyUw/s320/20230629_092804.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi richiudiamo le borse, ci infiliamo a fatica i vestiti da bici, saponosi e restii a calzare, e ci buttiamo per strada. Gigi vuole, prima di partire, una foto con la palma. Sceglie all'uopo la più piccola e striminzita, così che sembri pronto per uno spettacolo di pole dance. Andiamo, che è meglio!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigD2ZHUAWL8g-ZlECYVtXwN1y46Uuzsx_YtBhz-AUrxjIqhPv5Z_nEB_4JsR4PgBVP5JJfzmpa5N2tSqzHij5J2Uc8vLMSxaNY7AK-kHsm2NsW6gJOd3OYyu5bDQeAWCxB4rrCDyozL7XT_n7nrhu2-XNM6HR05XS2newM3qmXj6jbsXKE1b8vCY19_zo/s1209/20230629_102234.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigD2ZHUAWL8g-ZlECYVtXwN1y46Uuzsx_YtBhz-AUrxjIqhPv5Z_nEB_4JsR4PgBVP5JJfzmpa5N2tSqzHij5J2Uc8vLMSxaNY7AK-kHsm2NsW6gJOd3OYyu5bDQeAWCxB4rrCDyozL7XT_n7nrhu2-XNM6HR05XS2newM3qmXj6jbsXKE1b8vCY19_zo/s320/20230629_102234.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Appena usciti di imbattiamo nell'ennesimo, ma primo di altre decine oggi, cenote. Sono grotte con acqua dolce il cui nome deriva dalla lingua maya: dzonot, acqua sacra. Questo, come molti altri, è adibito a piscina ed attrezzato con tanto di sdraio ed ombrelloni. Io vorrei forte farci un tuffo, ma siamo partiti da poco e bisogna andare.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZkNtWExACfrcCDfKldUF6K8rtSbJfYvrQFSUtr7H2XLa2oT89cC-y9AYNEvCJGw3d4d8F4tyq0feCCmuK4Hpw3HJ4IyVi4AGZ6bnzUBXXc0Uf4C7ecCHjeQkURNH2bC8hoxyX1gNyeX0r8KNo6xRsHCpbuXCfiQCpYHBXiybwzZxdY9AaT1CySffAhgI/s1209/20230629_104941.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZkNtWExACfrcCDfKldUF6K8rtSbJfYvrQFSUtr7H2XLa2oT89cC-y9AYNEvCJGw3d4d8F4tyq0feCCmuK4Hpw3HJ4IyVi4AGZ6bnzUBXXc0Uf4C7ecCHjeQkURNH2bC8hoxyX1gNyeX0r8KNo6xRsHCpbuXCfiQCpYHBXiybwzZxdY9AaT1CySffAhgI/s320/20230629_104941.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglZs-LJXXzU41SBM5EcOTVZrqtGWEmIazm3WG2PH6ppIz9xScarTEEZh9QZHEkoqorDC1POyQrc-gReZYzSExeR9lJ4ent1E1yLIVsZovknx0pKJZVZk2OPZ58K_EW7Y2PCSAM9OJq5fGUZBmP1I_Z08FTntKYEpYrKLMZYEsnOwi8JNtShhZJSQsmorg/s1209/20230629_104944.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglZs-LJXXzU41SBM5EcOTVZrqtGWEmIazm3WG2PH6ppIz9xScarTEEZh9QZHEkoqorDC1POyQrc-gReZYzSExeR9lJ4ent1E1yLIVsZovknx0pKJZVZk2OPZ58K_EW7Y2PCSAM9OJq5fGUZBmP1I_Z08FTntKYEpYrKLMZYEsnOwi8JNtShhZJSQsmorg/s320/20230629_104944.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Seguiamo la 180 libre, direzione Merida, oggi senza deviazioni. Sulla strada si affacciano numerosi paesini, alcuni più grandi e strutturati, altri più piccoli, caotici e spesso ridotti a quattro casupole e due capanne. Passiamo da Valladolid nuevo, con la sua scuola media e tutti i ragazzini che corono in cortile a salutarci, a Cristobal Colon, Santo Domingo, Aluxes, El Tintal. In tutti questi centri abitati c'è un gran via vai di tricicli, a motore o a pedali, adibiti al trasporto passeggeri, ma pur motorini e auto abbastanza scassate e arrugginite. Ci sono tanti cani randagi, quasi tutti troppo affamati e deboli per curarsi di noi, bambini in divisa da scuola e negozietti di ogni genere.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWum3bzLoTKQ0y-OEsofd0TAdF-AXnwPhH3OZaQZBPObJMS-rgfG8M13VmTJtyesyOiXruTqvmGqS4jlkDW_KW5OCojovlpJ7aLJhBsHWkjia05BXT7UXH_aCcc-p-HqWWX-mEZ13etAwCv81Y9AV9ecyNa3mFtOftylIeSv6EfWIYUjFg_9d5Z9KwiaQ/s1209/20230629_110736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWum3bzLoTKQ0y-OEsofd0TAdF-AXnwPhH3OZaQZBPObJMS-rgfG8M13VmTJtyesyOiXruTqvmGqS4jlkDW_KW5OCojovlpJ7aLJhBsHWkjia05BXT7UXH_aCcc-p-HqWWX-mEZ13etAwCv81Y9AV9ecyNa3mFtOftylIeSv6EfWIYUjFg_9d5Z9KwiaQ/s320/20230629_110736.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiieD4BJ7I-RrXY3nV3iwtvER_zeqG5LlhQe0UaVpQ6FW2WW0AFMz5h2RPJ4sh6VYg38ZrC2cVUGe5z9lOx4qeNnQRVaaup5BB4BVM1Bl0zAbtrSmRauhRYszk3BTKXg6FEhb-NsDt_V2JX5dxgzmCAah7WmyVmtPzY6BWTjO0R8lt8712GkjzsAxVqYHA/s1209/20230629_110740.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiieD4BJ7I-RrXY3nV3iwtvER_zeqG5LlhQe0UaVpQ6FW2WW0AFMz5h2RPJ4sh6VYg38ZrC2cVUGe5z9lOx4qeNnQRVaaup5BB4BVM1Bl0zAbtrSmRauhRYszk3BTKXg6FEhb-NsDt_V2JX5dxgzmCAah7WmyVmtPzY6BWTjO0R8lt8712GkjzsAxVqYHA/s320/20230629_110740.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYZgRBIsJclLTkdDcZqAd9mVRoI7BXdIN_A0wpnhbngfcxpdh2zg8mr8glFl7s_ikF64yqxdn_IbcXEbcuqjaWDhI06gfAtGERCiM6TCLodREevT-Yq3NKb_lVLxxkPSURuixvDEZBsQsnjgtZcM2Fb2m7Bg-F6upCPD2MpAe9wC5ChQZybNbK8imtbE/s1209/20230629_114522.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYZgRBIsJclLTkdDcZqAd9mVRoI7BXdIN_A0wpnhbngfcxpdh2zg8mr8glFl7s_ikF64yqxdn_IbcXEbcuqjaWDhI06gfAtGERCiM6TCLodREevT-Yq3NKb_lVLxxkPSURuixvDEZBsQsnjgtZcM2Fb2m7Bg-F6upCPD2MpAe9wC5ChQZybNbK8imtbE/s320/20230629_114522.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la scuola media</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Poco prima di un incrocio autostradale saliamo su un cavalcaferrovia e, pur essendo solo di qualche metro più alti, scorgiamo l'intera distesa piatta della selva, a perdita d'occhio, tagliata solo dai binari. Si tratta del controverso Treno maya. Si tratta di un'opera mastodontica, ipertrofica, voluta con forza dall'attuale presidente Obrador: 1500km di ferrovia, dal Chiapas al Quintana Roo, per collegare i principali siti di interesse storico e culturale e portare vagonate, letteralmente, di turisti ogni giorno. Il presidente l'ha definita un'opportunità di crescita per le economie locali, ma è evidente che la gente del posto ne trarrà ben poco beneficio; e chi fa notare che la stragrande maggioranza delle comunità locali ha votato a favore, deve sapere che i fogli portati nei villaggi da firmare erano quasi sempre in spagnolo, là dove pochi sanno leggere e ancor meno questa lingua, che non è la loro. Chiedevano, gli indigeni, scuole, ospedali, acquedotti. Non un treno per turisti. Ad opporsi a questo scempio, che distruggerà gli ecosistemi (sul cui equilibrio si basano le economie locali, tanto che è stato definito ecocidio ed etnocidio) ci sono gli ambientalisti, gli zapatisti e le comunità indigene. Ma il presidente, insieme agli operai che posano i binari, manda l'esercito e camionate di agenti paramilitari armati di tutto punto a proteggere l'opera. Commenta il Manifesto: "Il Tren Maya è il grimaldello attorno a cui si muove l’enorme operazione di maquillage, guidata in prima persona dal presidente, che nasconde in sé un progetto, di stampo neoliberale, di strutturale trasformazione del sud del Messico".</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Eccolo qui.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCn7lY1mPG2nKlE9GCVs8xdaN01LBLWbGWyATCmY424SxM2QXdCr2ET493TQBBkx-r999R_KgiTCNxyXoHg85H0dg3HlJk2ce8n2qSV8-fdY8O3c6ZotXmeDeZz_R5bm4cCwVvO-jH_NijwwYzdAuDAJo7BoBypvZVL_ueE-lEkdt6Ll-5OGo7ilVjowU/s1209/20230629_115136.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCn7lY1mPG2nKlE9GCVs8xdaN01LBLWbGWyATCmY424SxM2QXdCr2ET493TQBBkx-r999R_KgiTCNxyXoHg85H0dg3HlJk2ce8n2qSV8-fdY8O3c6ZotXmeDeZz_R5bm4cCwVvO-jH_NijwwYzdAuDAJo7BoBypvZVL_ueE-lEkdt6Ll-5OGo7ilVjowU/s320/20230629_115136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEC05KMrcMY5MFoYKZGWmlItpTywkkJXpaGuD2Yda7YSNT9NSs6KmruJUut_ILTouNmhjVvTunZVlwishuCswMJXAjglWrCjeoCFTQNfQR6pccZAJSlE6WUoTBJy278eNMcKYTwBM7n8sHlhhMYyGbq8kZk75vFX_u5fsFawakb0F-0xgqPUDNfiA540M/s1209/20230629_115141.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEC05KMrcMY5MFoYKZGWmlItpTywkkJXpaGuD2Yda7YSNT9NSs6KmruJUut_ILTouNmhjVvTunZVlwishuCswMJXAjglWrCjeoCFTQNfQR6pccZAJSlE6WUoTBJy278eNMcKYTwBM7n8sHlhhMYyGbq8kZk75vFX_u5fsFawakb0F-0xgqPUDNfiA540M/s320/20230629_115141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidPiKAxpuxL1uiurHgvynnEQ028IJrSLMVIZd77BwPLrCN4b3IR2YeC8TJc_V0Agaqdd_3CAPEWRc3N9E12OHFY75CaG4Hkf-HViB3EbxVcoC03G66vZiuHYF2LTUkin_DBJb-ABjokH5HihHax3Lcn9bVBZHyTO1XiXBHHELxyUbH5B1O4aJKZa8nsg4/s1209/20230629_115403.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidPiKAxpuxL1uiurHgvynnEQ028IJrSLMVIZd77BwPLrCN4b3IR2YeC8TJc_V0Agaqdd_3CAPEWRc3N9E12OHFY75CaG4Hkf-HViB3EbxVcoC03G66vZiuHYF2LTUkin_DBJb-ABjokH5HihHax3Lcn9bVBZHyTO1XiXBHHELxyUbH5B1O4aJKZa8nsg4/s320/20230629_115403.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A Ignacio Zaragoza ci fermiamo a bere qualcosa di fresco. Il caldo è già devastante. I bimbi ci guardano incuriositi, il negoziante ci chiede lumi: chi siamo? Da dove veniamo? Dove andiamo? Evidentemente di qui non passano molti cicloviajeros, e siamo un discreto spettacolo di arte varia (soprattutto Gigi, che è tutto quello che loro non sono: alto, snello, occhi azzurri, pelle chiara, calvo, barba bianca. Il diverso, l'altro-da-sè in ogni modo).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj607Ay8kU1c6kuSxQ0MxoFr0VnBoPzbtwst9JLyIEJPWFajEy3cq8cYb0HrdC6YzHwbiQwtUMX0u9D_bPnGoglX2RjPW7YUmuNY4MQNWV_o6WdvlaBoUpVF0Uhnf1nG-xLatIcAqNLyaH6__A5KBg7vv2IVhCZcP_1tF9C09qlce5Jv8-SzJ8kSRnekoE/s1209/20230629_120506.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj607Ay8kU1c6kuSxQ0MxoFr0VnBoPzbtwst9JLyIEJPWFajEy3cq8cYb0HrdC6YzHwbiQwtUMX0u9D_bPnGoglX2RjPW7YUmuNY4MQNWV_o6WdvlaBoUpVF0Uhnf1nG-xLatIcAqNLyaH6__A5KBg7vv2IVhCZcP_1tF9C09qlce5Jv8-SzJ8kSRnekoE/s320/20230629_120506.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu26xH1vzZKyqwklaU8WhRDSV-n5u8r3wcjMOKlpTDf-ajiIjTd2oh_-4Av4TepW1KZ-YyhdORsP-yFcU86YBO1bH6quRvykHxjweWrI8ByQofXVU5VZ7UBZXjW8Il4I58bpUG8xVvD4OyHnYCKzoM5MLWaXav3PllG91D6ToNJnEOk03sQP1cCUqhER4/s1209/20230629_120514.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu26xH1vzZKyqwklaU8WhRDSV-n5u8r3wcjMOKlpTDf-ajiIjTd2oh_-4Av4TepW1KZ-YyhdORsP-yFcU86YBO1bH6quRvykHxjweWrI8ByQofXVU5VZ7UBZXjW8Il4I58bpUG8xVvD4OyHnYCKzoM5MLWaXav3PllG91D6ToNJnEOk03sQP1cCUqhER4/s320/20230629_120514.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUEyBuE4YFrXgaJ-VnDxVxc08w9WTAZ_vsXrcQKdkgcvjVNjUG-MEoboWoNmZaXWp-4VGhvtmMjRsArRQZSwlX3HiTyI4IlLG7_UagH8WDgDov_I-CzmAKtlNL1QfTTv5j7F7slEmPHCBdldkt-rP2zU7J7aXv-8u7ODzpanNXb_wYFUWOel0FhN-Xoc/s1209/20230629_121147.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUEyBuE4YFrXgaJ-VnDxVxc08w9WTAZ_vsXrcQKdkgcvjVNjUG-MEoboWoNmZaXWp-4VGhvtmMjRsArRQZSwlX3HiTyI4IlLG7_UagH8WDgDov_I-CzmAKtlNL1QfTTv5j7F7slEmPHCBdldkt-rP2zU7J7aXv-8u7ODzpanNXb_wYFUWOel0FhN-Xoc/s320/20230629_121147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ripartiamo. Dal caldo non si respira. Ci dicono che di solito non è così. Caldo, sì, ma non in questo modo. Pare che il cambiamento climatico stia colpendo anche qui, e ogni giorno ci arrivano notizie di decine di morti per il caldo. Passiamo Villa Infantil Maya e Nuevo Xcan e... Siamo in Yucatan. Il Quintana Roo, stato in cui siamo rimasti finora, è ormai alle spalle. Cambia il fuso orario: ora dall'Italia non ci sono 7 ma 8 ore in meno. La strada diventa più ampia e meglio mantenuta. Vediamo persino una scimmia, purtroppo morta, nel fogliame a bordo carreggiata, e una quantità incredibile di farfalle che creano nuvole gialle, arancioni e rosse. Insomma, Yucatan.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2EbAwgTH5nvLqyFvkYVPVgeHaVLsIHxCgBmjnDv4RnzjfSR4vu6BBxzq162zC4tQwEWslHJGtEjpFpRf-X6669Lm96epPEzaYxDHFy1EsjeG4yIQjTsE-0bDRP6MdlWtinWYb4qGR6Gx5pR7WFxoVoKeLDHtRec0rO9sYsqLP1nBA7-jHtzOGBurpro/s1209/20230629_122207.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2EbAwgTH5nvLqyFvkYVPVgeHaVLsIHxCgBmjnDv4RnzjfSR4vu6BBxzq162zC4tQwEWslHJGtEjpFpRf-X6669Lm96epPEzaYxDHFy1EsjeG4yIQjTsE-0bDRP6MdlWtinWYb4qGR6Gx5pR7WFxoVoKeLDHtRec0rO9sYsqLP1nBA7-jHtzOGBurpro/s320/20230629_122207.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAm2hDHPtZvZCIpU-JZo9W0wYxbyz7zSfqxm76U0OdWhVi7o2cm0wCWlinESYYkDjGt07eizrc6pMPQ2DOkw78CU0tOqdEpBE5vVVkZKzJNi-rgDSZQtrEcksB5zM9tIWxnGugKU5nM27FsmEdXsdHbrbwJ1tlsAp79LZQyPkKv5EkEdn7NJH924OdP0s/s1209/20230629_122505.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAm2hDHPtZvZCIpU-JZo9W0wYxbyz7zSfqxm76U0OdWhVi7o2cm0wCWlinESYYkDjGt07eizrc6pMPQ2DOkw78CU0tOqdEpBE5vVVkZKzJNi-rgDSZQtrEcksB5zM9tIWxnGugKU5nM27FsmEdXsdHbrbwJ1tlsAp79LZQyPkKv5EkEdn7NJH924OdP0s/s320/20230629_122505.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Inizia qui l'infilata di cittadine e villaggi a maggioranza maya, dove lo spagnolo è ancora oggi seconda lingua, l'analfabetismo dilaga e troppi vivono sotto la soglia di povertà. Il clima cambia. Iniziamo a ricevere qualche sguardo storto in più.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bJwcu_iaPgnftXGNDybwe5nD2_SsmZWdftDH7--zuSObjMIA2DSfp6djmMceC-KoNnFtXOfwH0Jq3b_R_XzqAiCfDQJm8ZsxOpz2QLzPgTXqwHqALQSXOpTYmeW4z_NvdsnbJSe6B-WEkCPER4Otb2p5WwGrplaHztgvIgwekbQEEz7km-5twzswz1M/s1209/20230629_125159.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bJwcu_iaPgnftXGNDybwe5nD2_SsmZWdftDH7--zuSObjMIA2DSfp6djmMceC-KoNnFtXOfwH0Jq3b_R_XzqAiCfDQJm8ZsxOpz2QLzPgTXqwHqALQSXOpTYmeW4z_NvdsnbJSe6B-WEkCPER4Otb2p5WwGrplaHztgvIgwekbQEEz7km-5twzswz1M/s320/20230629_125159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_LG-FLq9v8nkF6dinKbScYHlh2rypZll5DGgYPQIhotoilx12cAmjvbHO2zgu8Jvi7U27bWJEuRhhSkQ0YzF8OFblD5f6iflHYKFc7DD07BTv1Ml0d1oRsX-fnK8PxxC-fcI5JCQ6Re3v9DaZxCAQFUlsdlQWhpIpcFGLNGu5Q46mREgD7Mmdsp3P4A/s1209/20230629_125207.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_LG-FLq9v8nkF6dinKbScYHlh2rypZll5DGgYPQIhotoilx12cAmjvbHO2zgu8Jvi7U27bWJEuRhhSkQ0YzF8OFblD5f6iflHYKFc7DD07BTv1Ml0d1oRsX-fnK8PxxC-fcI5JCQ6Re3v9DaZxCAQFUlsdlQWhpIpcFGLNGu5Q46mREgD7Mmdsp3P4A/s320/20230629_125207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tra un paese e l'altro c'è la selva, attraversata da sentierini segnalati con bottiglie di plastica, copertoni e altra immondizia colorata accumulata ad hoc. Sbirciando in questi scorci di foresta, mi assalgono curiosità e brividi a un tempo. Chissà com'è vivere lì dentro, nel folto della selva. Chissà cosa si muove all'ombra degli alberi, quali animali, quali uomini. Chissà quanto poco resisterebbe una volpe gringa che sta imparando a conoscere questi luoghi visti finora solo nei documentari e sui libri.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK40skbA-yDyezkp6ZuPRjztkvkmsZO-6k9kNWvkNVJINo6tysR1GkBHFL4XmuggaVk8InXrT4_bcErPDMryojof85MZXqgaJADNy7t3WWlUwOuXFYl1v7cr36DzF2LRd1VOlyQiGLHC3MWKhduvs9cagCXP-WmYZWfQ1kLgoifzlD5iFN2HDrI5k7bAs/s1209/20230629_125544.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK40skbA-yDyezkp6ZuPRjztkvkmsZO-6k9kNWvkNVJINo6tysR1GkBHFL4XmuggaVk8InXrT4_bcErPDMryojof85MZXqgaJADNy7t3WWlUwOuXFYl1v7cr36DzF2LRd1VOlyQiGLHC3MWKhduvs9cagCXP-WmYZWfQ1kLgoifzlD5iFN2HDrI5k7bAs/s320/20230629_125544.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygbSEpNym_eczC_hbvKaKRNs7hq1QjBCKISigZAQxdmfSXQBh7KQQEVfCK0UqUSBK36ZfnokGi4QX_9gEQv77B_40ScKv9qdec1aqVl08kEfLNmaRtsg1TowEvdqJA5EcF2EMANftrouMsCnZhmzM_Ie0UA17Ruy38d_QubU42YDxELiGnR1cKNAHPnI/s1209/20230629_130442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygbSEpNym_eczC_hbvKaKRNs7hq1QjBCKISigZAQxdmfSXQBh7KQQEVfCK0UqUSBK36ZfnokGi4QX_9gEQv77B_40ScKv9qdec1aqVl08kEfLNmaRtsg1TowEvdqJA5EcF2EMANftrouMsCnZhmzM_Ie0UA17Ruy38d_QubU42YDxELiGnR1cKNAHPnI/s320/20230629_130442.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbal39ZdHyO7_aSJf8h-kvJCAWsk5BFikwPeoDmfs3CM5v_HADHcwADbwsDT68Dy4mnVj4S6FqaOWAd362bSVAQ_IjxawxJs6S9xNI_9IPqux4KK82RkUrkHNbjFFZyoiFgCFMuxot6bLblUn_0sewbuOXXX51FHw_Nd3Dug9fTeO49BGN2cr28UhKO48/s1209/20230629_131542.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbal39ZdHyO7_aSJf8h-kvJCAWsk5BFikwPeoDmfs3CM5v_HADHcwADbwsDT68Dy4mnVj4S6FqaOWAd362bSVAQ_IjxawxJs6S9xNI_9IPqux4KK82RkUrkHNbjFFZyoiFgCFMuxot6bLblUn_0sewbuOXXX51FHw_Nd3Dug9fTeO49BGN2cr28UhKO48/s320/20230629_131542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZaMI6jbL2uuiJyqeQ13Vlm2PMhLTYxkZILxluILqvZiOEitaBQcYBM7OYaJEXCeAI31m7yAfuh-oBJCd7p8mZ5M-i0Ues08qqhH8A1QhncumU68hM2MAdwWLh4YLqpSYuvNoJH7F2mZxe-dBlPe4rAnMEDKxZiE0m5YAwu5bYliHFGe_S6xqCxN8fCQ/s1209/20230629_131558.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZaMI6jbL2uuiJyqeQ13Vlm2PMhLTYxkZILxluILqvZiOEitaBQcYBM7OYaJEXCeAI31m7yAfuh-oBJCd7p8mZ5M-i0Ues08qqhH8A1QhncumU68hM2MAdwWLh4YLqpSYuvNoJH7F2mZxe-dBlPe4rAnMEDKxZiE0m5YAwu5bYliHFGe_S6xqCxN8fCQ/s320/20230629_131558.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Vorremmo fare una sosta, perchè il caldo si è fatto insopportabile, i pensieri annebbiati e l'acqua nelle borracce brodo... Ma non ci sono più centri abitati, se non pueblos che la mappa segnala dentro alla selva. Quindi tiriamo dritti e, a quasi 70km, raggiungiamo Xcatzin (è il nome di una pianta in lingua maya). Qui prendiamo d'assalto uno dei pochi negozietti e ci rifocilliamo di acqua fresca. Veniamo presto raggiunti da due ragazzini che cercano di venderci della frutta. Prima con sorrisoni e buone maniere, poi in modo sempre più insistente. Parliamo un po' con loro: uno, il più tagliato, ha 9 anni. L'altro, che non scende dal triciclo cargo ed è un po' più timido, 11. Entrambi vanno a scuola. Entrambi, dopo averci pelato qualche monetina, chiedono più soldi, e iniziano poi a palarci in maya, dicendo che sono maledizioni, e che se gli diamo dei soldi dio ci aiuterà. Che fatica.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo un bel po' se ne vanno, e ci raggiunge un canetto questuante. Anche a lui qualcosa arriva.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9iTjFDvLSs1ZlruhNdfy7ucKK0JvzQN7fsKCz2evESOQW3vmccpf9Cu2_Q2Nf_M4le0OV9f3bEZMRSncEeoHlewW0JFX_VBtBg0D04uf9YNEAtgcOc8FI4W6y1MQvElHkEARaU_tqCIrq0FZglqF5ttSsOMJkO7RBnkbmlwtykFGU7b3FaJ0nxYkYqV0/s1209/20230629_140534.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9iTjFDvLSs1ZlruhNdfy7ucKK0JvzQN7fsKCz2evESOQW3vmccpf9Cu2_Q2Nf_M4le0OV9f3bEZMRSncEeoHlewW0JFX_VBtBg0D04uf9YNEAtgcOc8FI4W6y1MQvElHkEARaU_tqCIrq0FZglqF5ttSsOMJkO7RBnkbmlwtykFGU7b3FaJ0nxYkYqV0/s320/20230629_140534.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtW_Lecz7cwsMcJqCTDOZ9rbYvneQI5_w-UzG5TE2UUnqYR9wqxc_7YfeXZsRfodyoQtDiuL_hp6Muf7XKl6_phMIYGUdDiw90gCF-Bu58VQ6Mhe010Woas1j6xlmmj09jwFSwT2xhpHkSpNFH4Yca6MgghCu8gpQFL8KF2bgOsm_paPPeyfQfE3rsBnc/s1209/20230629_140551.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtW_Lecz7cwsMcJqCTDOZ9rbYvneQI5_w-UzG5TE2UUnqYR9wqxc_7YfeXZsRfodyoQtDiuL_hp6Muf7XKl6_phMIYGUdDiw90gCF-Bu58VQ6Mhe010Woas1j6xlmmj09jwFSwT2xhpHkSpNFH4Yca6MgghCu8gpQFL8KF2bgOsm_paPPeyfQfE3rsBnc/s320/20230629_140551.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh47msJxgUxU3leAVEcWJ8MFqCfswdryGXkL9bu4xIQdDO68s7WDHQls59vjGtY07qHTGOELVj433tpzCPqkhNjLP27HY0m30n-yx2d_ugojqW5AqBHBSRUPv2M2jRYfifWYSbjAnjulEOcviAK6-Ug8pf17_Uimo0Fr2gC4LFwzaSwNymhlaPtnu_xvVI/s1209/20230629_141110.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh47msJxgUxU3leAVEcWJ8MFqCfswdryGXkL9bu4xIQdDO68s7WDHQls59vjGtY07qHTGOELVj433tpzCPqkhNjLP27HY0m30n-yx2d_ugojqW5AqBHBSRUPv2M2jRYfifWYSbjAnjulEOcviAK6-Ug8pf17_Uimo0Fr2gC4LFwzaSwNymhlaPtnu_xvVI/s320/20230629_141110.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTt-zkFY_eZofXl0wKMxI1kIxFO8Lfo6r1-25lMy0gDDFnapsij9OKH4VlLrVsdNjam5B6CMWJeL6qJUWzgTmExAUgjsQHG1KRFyo6zzD987G7NibOF-1dcULYTrj6M3Ig03plOB56KiPE_QsbeiMh5Z0AAdBWMQpqIS1Jx9b--yxTGPNAn4Z-cG9aRBA/s1209/20230629_141359.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTt-zkFY_eZofXl0wKMxI1kIxFO8Lfo6r1-25lMy0gDDFnapsij9OKH4VlLrVsdNjam5B6CMWJeL6qJUWzgTmExAUgjsQHG1KRFyo6zzD987G7NibOF-1dcULYTrj6M3Ig03plOB56KiPE_QsbeiMh5Z0AAdBWMQpqIS1Jx9b--yxTGPNAn4Z-cG9aRBA/s320/20230629_141359.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Siccome è molto presto e mancano solo 10km alla nostra meta di oggi, decido che si può fare una micro-deviazione in paese pe andare a vedere il cenote che sorge a qualche via di distanza dalla strada principale. Le stradine, sterrate, sono popolate da bambini di ogni età che giocano a pallone, girano a bande in bici e trafficano cose. La nostra presenza non passa inosservata e, nel giro di un attimo, ci troviamo a metà tra l'inseguiti e il circondati da un nugolo di bimbi che ci fissa, e le espressioni non sono del tutto amichevoli. Gigi è gringo. E gringo, ormai lo sappiamo dal Perù, non è un complimento. Quindi stiamo il tempo minimo per vedere il cenote e poi via, perchè l'aria è pesantina. Gigi è abbastanza scosso. Io che mi sono presa pure le pietre lanciate dai ragazzini in Iran mi faccio impressionare meno e so che l'ignoranza qui è frutto della miseria e di una storia impietosa. La rabbia cova da secoli nel cuore di questa gente ed io, per quel che posso, li capisco. Comunque domani facciamo un bel cartello da scrivere sulle bici: no soy gringo/a, soy italiano/a!</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS85wK-_zo19-b9BKGeIpP1GNqpYkBcrmAu92UpbH3akmzhK2LgQLfFdEXXl35n_oJi2J03LgjgSY3h16RBll1jN698q1w9Nk3xDciq1yRPFxHX8Yqcc2qBhbarozO8qHq35kX7ZLCsq_Ld0y5z4_X8E6SjxUNaiYEXv_xO1GcTRixUDzN58bQM6-2F8A/s1209/20230629_145913.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS85wK-_zo19-b9BKGeIpP1GNqpYkBcrmAu92UpbH3akmzhK2LgQLfFdEXXl35n_oJi2J03LgjgSY3h16RBll1jN698q1w9Nk3xDciq1yRPFxHX8Yqcc2qBhbarozO8qHq35kX7ZLCsq_Ld0y5z4_X8E6SjxUNaiYEXv_xO1GcTRixUDzN58bQM6-2F8A/s320/20230629_145913.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">il cenote dello scandalo</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDzfh-GbNPMYVwk4aJUUJSmXS5V2IFjjrN49CQB7rV1196r2PvG4dTGrryd8Cu_L7klFSsVlaAgmiBdEvC-Xe5FgzpRqCyb7Se06Z78dwXWClIJfbHuNCWQVDcP7PTty1qwpt8Xz3e1Xps1QkXOWasYjfoLN26biirBT2HpwyqPftVsd39HwhKUUOyEM/s1209/20230629_145931.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDzfh-GbNPMYVwk4aJUUJSmXS5V2IFjjrN49CQB7rV1196r2PvG4dTGrryd8Cu_L7klFSsVlaAgmiBdEvC-Xe5FgzpRqCyb7Se06Z78dwXWClIJfbHuNCWQVDcP7PTty1qwpt8Xz3e1Xps1QkXOWasYjfoLN26biirBT2HpwyqPftVsd39HwhKUUOyEM/s320/20230629_145931.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Arriviamo infine a Chemax, dove confermiamo la decisione di fermarci. Prima Gigi ha anche chiamato uno degli hotel per prenotare una stanza. Don Roger è una ex casa coloniale riadattata ad albergo, costa molto poco, ha stanze molto grandi con tanto di cucina, è molto sporco e fatiscente ed è popolato da intere famiglie di scarafaggi grandi come la mia faccia. Perfetto, prendiamo la stanza! Gigi istituisce il "sacchetto delle cucarachas", cioè quello con cui raccattarle e buttarle nel wc, per intenderci sulla quantità e qualità.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHI7_MPLi4MyDCitZPKaEydgXxHRbLgNekUHSB7OBPG5ru9Umyn6pElhv73FaFJ1x8tIltDiQt9GXyJps9h_CD_-KnTYMt1sQUYPtGvZ5aAZsHF-Q7e8obKHr5aIRudPq_oSkDeGddziSeXMCRO1HUzDysrM5oLpA1lb44mQhu4dZENOZ6slhyexke0Bs/s1209/20230629_160920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHI7_MPLi4MyDCitZPKaEydgXxHRbLgNekUHSB7OBPG5ru9Umyn6pElhv73FaFJ1x8tIltDiQt9GXyJps9h_CD_-KnTYMt1sQUYPtGvZ5aAZsHF-Q7e8obKHr5aIRudPq_oSkDeGddziSeXMCRO1HUzDysrM5oLpA1lb44mQhu4dZENOZ6slhyexke0Bs/s320/20230629_160920.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkCa_gE7zTmjji-0ujXel0dzIcFfCcxYYXsr9ezXUjP4rN2G0Hl05tCVRa8GPu-ai_GD1dnTg6-j_Ie-vDNmiKg55MQEIa-FExe8wqebtqOwQZXWX5ANJD94VD0cyHF9TOcocbKuNcIh_ku64wGOKlRATJ7XH3GNVAi_67fgKPb09aA-Sa0Cot9R4bHY/s1209/20230629_175331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwkCa_gE7zTmjji-0ujXel0dzIcFfCcxYYXsr9ezXUjP4rN2G0Hl05tCVRa8GPu-ai_GD1dnTg6-j_Ie-vDNmiKg55MQEIa-FExe8wqebtqOwQZXWX5ANJD94VD0cyHF9TOcocbKuNcIh_ku64wGOKlRATJ7XH3GNVAi_67fgKPb09aA-Sa0Cot9R4bHY/s320/20230629_175331.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXNsWhNdSbxRD8Fu5XEKtvUIVpm615dKADR7WKPAx93I0TlXDOQeVxqna6wtMhD8D9fcU9GdHU-F5h2OWCjY2LXxr1TzinuJxZIN0vPAnoDINZnRsaQDrPztsiLlWKPz6u8Qqb18YxbJYEKR-S_i98NyhTV7BV3AW7Jd3LaB-c3OWkUL-HrvHnqvxcSo/s1209/20230629_175358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXNsWhNdSbxRD8Fu5XEKtvUIVpm615dKADR7WKPAx93I0TlXDOQeVxqna6wtMhD8D9fcU9GdHU-F5h2OWCjY2LXxr1TzinuJxZIN0vPAnoDINZnRsaQDrPztsiLlWKPz6u8Qqb18YxbJYEKR-S_i98NyhTV7BV3AW7Jd3LaB-c3OWkUL-HrvHnqvxcSo/s320/20230629_175358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Siccome la struttura si trova in una zona, diciamo, non bellissima della città, per stasera decidiamo di mangiare in camera dopo aver fatto la spesa al supermercato, finchè c'è luce, così da non dover andar in giro con il buio. Gli sguardi che riceviamo non sono molto rassicuranti, da risatine, sputi a terra, fischi e urla: gringos!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Però non tutti sono così. Anzi, i più sono solo stupiti o incuriositi nel vederci far spese nei negozi e intenderci in spagnolo senza troppe difficoltà. In ogni caso vediamo qui tante baracche, perchè case non sono, dove bimbi, anziani, pollame e cani condividono lo stesso cortile fangoso, penzolando sulle amache. L'odore di marijuana è onnipresente e i personaggi loschetti si aggirano in ogni quartiere, senza nemmeno far finta di nulla. Ho scattato poche foto per non attirare ulteriori attenzioni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IbuokIqjf2mLCeI2fVosej1lEivSUbygH49nvJKroJ3FTOi4AXmVpigpQq1nwxT-BpGsB9c8XzDaW_iIvEnc64OQAfaRZ7we7ytEGuf6P9QezCkM063Yw3VW0hxGWykEraB-lF7dGfYm1CRoozgz6J8EM8YGqgEijSlmpq0lxJDoyeq54JnRG26uiXs/s1209/20230629_175839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IbuokIqjf2mLCeI2fVosej1lEivSUbygH49nvJKroJ3FTOi4AXmVpigpQq1nwxT-BpGsB9c8XzDaW_iIvEnc64OQAfaRZ7we7ytEGuf6P9QezCkM063Yw3VW0hxGWykEraB-lF7dGfYm1CRoozgz6J8EM8YGqgEijSlmpq0lxJDoyeq54JnRG26uiXs/s320/20230629_175839.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeyVIIDGkGkyM8VzwLYMmwpXi7DBRSzKxPAY1WnaNriSeD7ffSBBX3PZ13f2WPLJooBMSWZwhw7BIObhSpgiiMZRMp5ywv-kNEMZyCuEC_l76PGYVREICmYWueqwxiF7FYZEHp5lHGPTD-32vfGWsIx6YxA6dKPdNNqRy2ZpB_uxOQKNNE9ZhDcpMfqCw/s1209/20230629_175848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeyVIIDGkGkyM8VzwLYMmwpXi7DBRSzKxPAY1WnaNriSeD7ffSBBX3PZ13f2WPLJooBMSWZwhw7BIObhSpgiiMZRMp5ywv-kNEMZyCuEC_l76PGYVREICmYWueqwxiF7FYZEHp5lHGPTD-32vfGWsIx6YxA6dKPdNNqRy2ZpB_uxOQKNNE9ZhDcpMfqCw/s320/20230629_175848.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Per far la spesa andiamo in centro, dove si erge la maestosa chiesa che risale alla fondazione via encomienda, nel 1549, della città spagnola, su pueblo maya (Chemax significa albero delle scimmie). Dentro è in corso la funzione. In ginocchio vedo quasi solo donne, di tutte le età. Molte hanno in mano un palloncino verde, e tante indossano l'abito tradizionale locale, che è un vestito lungo bianco con decorazioni colorate di fiori alle estremità della gonna, delle maniche (corte) e sulla scollatura (poco profonda). Qui, per altro, si è combattuta una sanguinosa battaglia durante la guerra delle caste: gli indios ribelli hanno attaccato la città a più riprese, e sono riusciti ad entrarci, e hanno fatto strage.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRg-yF-QJXfeuDTDjvbdZ-IXlbLgtZ7bt0noa--34v5ykt6vP3GT4PVYXwdP3pKO40W1MKVsAZ56CIrjVWEZsbnjMMo2WmAdoIFmBTLbCPqXkeMGBtELFFj0SzMcRYhK76WdjCvIWAbmACo29-ymwcN-lXkcTFzc9C4paiK4RDH8_6SFcp2NHSU77sESk/s1209/20230629_180453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRg-yF-QJXfeuDTDjvbdZ-IXlbLgtZ7bt0noa--34v5ykt6vP3GT4PVYXwdP3pKO40W1MKVsAZ56CIrjVWEZsbnjMMo2WmAdoIFmBTLbCPqXkeMGBtELFFj0SzMcRYhK76WdjCvIWAbmACo29-ymwcN-lXkcTFzc9C4paiK4RDH8_6SFcp2NHSU77sESk/s320/20230629_180453.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrz6kuBTW494luq_SApSoaOLBOlbkV_K5J6jQx3Ur0GFyaw06xjkENmIufb3MJtBZxFCrvale467IZzHBWZGEaNySKy0VxFgJg1ABvRMyFQGCrkeZxHIluspB0aV1jcsA69YpI1JVEtKEkjaZYtkSyHin_uW9r1yUf5CUOykMrqIXUG1Qe2Mc-rUn2264/s1209/20230629_180536.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrz6kuBTW494luq_SApSoaOLBOlbkV_K5J6jQx3Ur0GFyaw06xjkENmIufb3MJtBZxFCrvale467IZzHBWZGEaNySKy0VxFgJg1ABvRMyFQGCrkeZxHIluspB0aV1jcsA69YpI1JVEtKEkjaZYtkSyHin_uW9r1yUf5CUOykMrqIXUG1Qe2Mc-rUn2264/s320/20230629_180536.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUlHNWr_JQmz4hkI8q3pYIyZnaXe0x3GAp0pM3GIwgWmxShXpK085aLRf0HFKIlGj9_40tYbd3XpAsyu5TyENfADyMi_Zni3IcGE0gzBnIQgEuDTbCNehlSvQd0EePDa7dFNQgBymJnTammBQuiff92HQnxG_-SKBSPVPmxl-0lO11m6S1R8Q9I5nc1o/s1209/20230629_180630.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUlHNWr_JQmz4hkI8q3pYIyZnaXe0x3GAp0pM3GIwgWmxShXpK085aLRf0HFKIlGj9_40tYbd3XpAsyu5TyENfADyMi_Zni3IcGE0gzBnIQgEuDTbCNehlSvQd0EePDa7dFNQgBymJnTammBQuiff92HQnxG_-SKBSPVPmxl-0lO11m6S1R8Q9I5nc1o/s320/20230629_180630.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7iZuUmW-xU3RjIdC6s4i5F8u4t1BAzJt8GY6RZv0XaUNx4_W3FFc3_frTirWywn81OE6UtniQOmPU_MNWhID2MD5KcOP1bYNhiKe9YNkWmRNh8ZdpY-Av8jqxyOUPRTmBU2yNMGMgCH-83yKhXJXSjMUH5Cw_BIDcjPn52s0Gjb3APF55SrRGYL7-zjI/s1209/20230629_180711.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7iZuUmW-xU3RjIdC6s4i5F8u4t1BAzJt8GY6RZv0XaUNx4_W3FFc3_frTirWywn81OE6UtniQOmPU_MNWhID2MD5KcOP1bYNhiKe9YNkWmRNh8ZdpY-Av8jqxyOUPRTmBU2yNMGMgCH-83yKhXJXSjMUH5Cw_BIDcjPn52s0Gjb3APF55SrRGYL7-zjI/s320/20230629_180711.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMztCDVJGR0xi4vkey1weMgUnc3q7Wwej4oexglMCbcMVOHCO4Fb2iuCXXDciSjrDk8gdM7b2ajlEQ-gqXVth_qXnn5rum18vr9tB08snGxzQkVcbDMhwa3XfK5FBSdjDGZt_XujqHQ1ThvFdX8apb-py5xh5QwkeToEGLb139pSE_ILNofZ0aRdPyZUs/s1209/20230629_180715.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMztCDVJGR0xi4vkey1weMgUnc3q7Wwej4oexglMCbcMVOHCO4Fb2iuCXXDciSjrDk8gdM7b2ajlEQ-gqXVth_qXnn5rum18vr9tB08snGxzQkVcbDMhwa3XfK5FBSdjDGZt_XujqHQ1ThvFdX8apb-py5xh5QwkeToEGLb139pSE_ILNofZ0aRdPyZUs/s320/20230629_180715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKr4wsGEYPRwTzPpVMtNLiMnc2uM2nb46fpvdq9wrfqLCoBmUqJqMZRCm4IQPArSvjUMZ0K3yKrepiz42v3dsvST9SmDRs1WaNyOAh8mHr0L9F2c2N5D0-JfAGfKq-mGKBb9guJyWAmkv9_xyN79dHdirXF075Dp0ANhm4ne-OkmlF9MNJyXK3tcsWYEA/s1209/20230629_180737.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKr4wsGEYPRwTzPpVMtNLiMnc2uM2nb46fpvdq9wrfqLCoBmUqJqMZRCm4IQPArSvjUMZ0K3yKrepiz42v3dsvST9SmDRs1WaNyOAh8mHr0L9F2c2N5D0-JfAGfKq-mGKBb9guJyWAmkv9_xyN79dHdirXF075Dp0ANhm4ne-OkmlF9MNJyXK3tcsWYEA/s320/20230629_180737.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsJ07sesvzqdZBYVB-eguN1g0G4IjS38dz6HQaaGWR5uavyULY0bm6pOTnFzevL3ftFOUX9suNDPuyKKcKq2r7-bIjkYUcsFwy6C6vRxzqUWqWqCgphBHQ7_0s4rRmgz7DjUs7-AziFTwCQYbjLNoTZXGOGr8yR3U-awHEGQDCxj5MUI-RLtZZLNkODQ/s1209/20230629_182633.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsJ07sesvzqdZBYVB-eguN1g0G4IjS38dz6HQaaGWR5uavyULY0bm6pOTnFzevL3ftFOUX9suNDPuyKKcKq2r7-bIjkYUcsFwy6C6vRxzqUWqWqCgphBHQ7_0s4rRmgz7DjUs7-AziFTwCQYbjLNoTZXGOGr8yR3U-awHEGQDCxj5MUI-RLtZZLNkODQ/s320/20230629_182633.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Ce ne torniamo in albergo a cenare, al fresco, e iniziamo a preparare i cartelli "no soy gringo/a...". Domani lasceremo la strada principale per tagliare su Ekbalam, e poi scendere a Valladolid, sempre in terre maya. Vogliamo essere chiari sulla nostra identità! E' razzismo? O è un modo per difendersi da una forma di razzismo che non ha a che fare con la "razza" ma con la storia? Non so rispondere.<br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">30/6</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Chemax - Ekbalam - Valladolid</div><div style="text-align: justify;">81km</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Incredibilmente, la pletora di insetti che condivide con noi la stanza ci lascia dormire tranquilli. Abbiamo già comprato la colazione e quindi siamo pronti già ad uscire poco dopo svegli. Acchittiamo tutto per bene con i nostri cartelli e ci prepariamo ad una giornata intensa: abbiamo molto da vedere e da esplorare, anche perchè, uscendo dalle strade principali, per noi è tutto nuovo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxstsYSaZYFC6B9O9yXxOeT7c6haG5E2VRcREdHXbxU2AAmJWcGNHYDQR010uckNxdLom6rDGDWqo31cHRScmf9oaU8VhJ9rS80BbNkwMUSD9LzB9CFZs-tUBN1r4TrUSa57F9cXZw5IKI_o4oFXooF4uDNPDq0Ztemm-_QMBD4cd8UoLADPbWRjYJ3qQ/s1209/20230630_084120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxstsYSaZYFC6B9O9yXxOeT7c6haG5E2VRcREdHXbxU2AAmJWcGNHYDQR010uckNxdLom6rDGDWqo31cHRScmf9oaU8VhJ9rS80BbNkwMUSD9LzB9CFZs-tUBN1r4TrUSa57F9cXZw5IKI_o4oFXooF4uDNPDq0Ztemm-_QMBD4cd8UoLADPbWRjYJ3qQ/s320/20230630_084120.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhe15jETG1TdKj05EegjUMSGVWTkSOZ-caWw3ZF_pq608f6ItXRB4Rcp8aFq7veZgMmXIBA6vZ--F8mxX1XPh_Zk76NcK0eg9RD1eUtxXk6_aIJQQu0rVtnv5ieVDEvGY5c3_DZ-upnX1t9L8Rr95oKM5MLQi8QrHnJpH171VUR199ke294uHwQxBBSPo/s1209/20230630_084142.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhe15jETG1TdKj05EegjUMSGVWTkSOZ-caWw3ZF_pq608f6ItXRB4Rcp8aFq7veZgMmXIBA6vZ--F8mxX1XPh_Zk76NcK0eg9RD1eUtxXk6_aIJQQu0rVtnv5ieVDEvGY5c3_DZ-upnX1t9L8Rr95oKM5MLQi8QrHnJpH171VUR199ke294uHwQxBBSPo/s320/20230630_084142.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdnqzID_DbeVQhbgMjMQILhHG-7M9ALhjtaXKznHGv-ufD_MZQAThcE8rO-kWcW65hLNBiQUAME5zSOo4MYb_e-8EwmbQ6_m4dBhfoQo-LgLG7qv_a9qOPMTGQW2Zn1EaDbULFWSIQafmSIexSpuV511BTeFpsNRZKof4UZxocfn8wFi5c-R6eOv1FCw/s1209/20230630_084830.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdnqzID_DbeVQhbgMjMQILhHG-7M9ALhjtaXKznHGv-ufD_MZQAThcE8rO-kWcW65hLNBiQUAME5zSOo4MYb_e-8EwmbQ6_m4dBhfoQo-LgLG7qv_a9qOPMTGQW2Zn1EaDbULFWSIQafmSIexSpuV511BTeFpsNRZKof4UZxocfn8wFi5c-R6eOv1FCw/s320/20230630_084830.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il primo busillis è uscire da Chemax senza svegliare i cani che dormono, e son tanti, randagi e non. Ne abbiamo visti parecchi anche ieri attaccare le birocette a pedali che qui sono il mezzo di trasporto privilegiato... Non vorrei far la fine del signore che ieri ho visto scalciare con la sua infradito mentre cercava di accelerare il passo, e si è visto portar via la babbuccia. Riusciamo nell'impresa senza troppe difficoltà e torniamo sulla 180 libre in direzione Valladolid. Si pedala svelti e bene, perchè l'asfalto è liscissimo, la corsia laterale ampia e tutto è piatto. Per superare i 200m di dislivello bisogna fare più di 100km! In più non fa ancora quel caldo crudele che sale poi durante le ore centrali della giornata, e dà l'impressione di esser stati messi in forno a fuoco alto. Dopo qualche strillo dalla parte opposta della strada -"Gringo, gringo!"- di ragazzini che ci vedono da lontano, siamo sulla traccia. Un soffio ed eccoci al bivio, segnalato da tanto di altare con crociazze e madonna. Qui si lascia la strada principale e ci si tuffa per le vie secondarie che collegano alcuni villaggi maya dispersi nella selva. Qui andiamo a vedere cosa significa essere indigeno e fuori dalle rotte principali del turismo. Un pelino di ansia c'è: se succede qualcosa da queste parti, essere rintracciati diventa complicato. Nessuno vede, nessuno sa.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6pzg_UhPnUgxQTb9iOtjFT6unqFVwj9ZBRGk_ZeFeoUcqA15PZhh4m7HXCY-ob473bp7UDq03jfy4MIOXx0ir0bsRxyBSaBZORjiSgFu0X-cxwAE0Ge8M-DTZPRkH2m7vkZaU0qm4SQHfQCHKctLxeDgWEym1yECpLYU9QLoI_bubYLo0fo7W6AqZDQ/s1209/20230630_095701.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6pzg_UhPnUgxQTb9iOtjFT6unqFVwj9ZBRGk_ZeFeoUcqA15PZhh4m7HXCY-ob473bp7UDq03jfy4MIOXx0ir0bsRxyBSaBZORjiSgFu0X-cxwAE0Ge8M-DTZPRkH2m7vkZaU0qm4SQHfQCHKctLxeDgWEym1yECpLYU9QLoI_bubYLo0fo7W6AqZDQ/s320/20230630_095701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAw_qcUrwjHxG3S-6M6lxiKPtwCaCCeN_BQ3WO6DW6i489sNyfCrEiTZuUTGmPhsTKY26pGVOq_U-FjqMZdfL_wcovdzTXXZAJvBCE76WZ4uYqh6PpNy1SNuxDTe1YvbYJ_iyCH_bTTdlGNRjg6k9XHjEg5biPkZyZdD8FfkwyWNnKWSpS7SBGgl772c4/s1209/20230630_100921.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAw_qcUrwjHxG3S-6M6lxiKPtwCaCCeN_BQ3WO6DW6i489sNyfCrEiTZuUTGmPhsTKY26pGVOq_U-FjqMZdfL_wcovdzTXXZAJvBCE76WZ4uYqh6PpNy1SNuxDTe1YvbYJ_iyCH_bTTdlGNRjg6k9XHjEg5biPkZyZdD8FfkwyWNnKWSpS7SBGgl772c4/s320/20230630_100921.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I dubbi si sciolgono in fretta, un po' per il caldo che ora comincia a pestare forte, e fa sciogliere tutto, un po' perchè scopriamo che anche queste strade secondarie sono ben mantenute, e portano un via vai di agricoltori e operai del posto che lavorano nei campi qui intorno, nascosti tra gli alberi. Sembra tutta gente tranquilla e fin troppo presa nelle proprie faccende. Vorrei vedere qualche animale, che ne so, un formichiere, un coati... E ne vediamo, ma tutti stecchiti. Compreso un cagnolino chiuso in un sacchetto di plastica. La scena è raccapricciante e per la mia sensibilità devastante. Quindi interviene un cinismo tremendo che è una forma di autodifesa, e ci ridiamo su, amaramente, annoverando tra la fauna locale i cani in busta.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgqpVaPrdjwVv0mNmKwLOhXcGuKBlJB2yK-sS4wiGza-Cs_j62FtDgIPRpHaMOr8w5Hx-kepwFhL7VfQY8tCP5ZH5VZjHZqb062dr7rsZBsTZmtkkq1UpZk76G_40ZaI9dc__16nnX1H8fqBYEqKIJ7YLb9qEsAOGWh2h2BaYmHbBEOYrMkiXK8_eM_g/s1209/20230630_100944.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgqpVaPrdjwVv0mNmKwLOhXcGuKBlJB2yK-sS4wiGza-Cs_j62FtDgIPRpHaMOr8w5Hx-kepwFhL7VfQY8tCP5ZH5VZjHZqb062dr7rsZBsTZmtkkq1UpZk76G_40ZaI9dc__16nnX1H8fqBYEqKIJ7YLb9qEsAOGWh2h2BaYmHbBEOYrMkiXK8_eM_g/s320/20230630_100944.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo una decina di kilometri troviamo un cavalcavia mai del tutto completato, che porta a superare l'autostrada e il famigerato treno maya. Qui son stati posati solo i binari, e il cantiere pare aperto ma abbandonato. Ha un che di sinistro questa spina dorsale di acciaio imbullonata a una terra che la rigetta come un organo di troppo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpBFTOlx6a7aaGqSk9mG5e0YAmDwQch4xf7w9g_9TgzZNdmJpyme7V2CLypbqPdutdRzJHSn0wg1rIa3u0JaipGN8d6QP_yiJzU3Q3zj2WbRExqLf69ViFHdiMjXosCEQG3iUIEgd66g_7erMPuLajmNb-EGoApDcwhHFsS38NqGlxIlPqz-_HmO-HODw/s1209/20230630_102749.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpBFTOlx6a7aaGqSk9mG5e0YAmDwQch4xf7w9g_9TgzZNdmJpyme7V2CLypbqPdutdRzJHSn0wg1rIa3u0JaipGN8d6QP_yiJzU3Q3zj2WbRExqLf69ViFHdiMjXosCEQG3iUIEgd66g_7erMPuLajmNb-EGoApDcwhHFsS38NqGlxIlPqz-_HmO-HODw/s320/20230630_102749.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLgcN128ojcnmnFSKkC21Z4TxkhKmgrmVaVELsPjcnc2QwqSX1sk62V2zZFzqFBQoryXKffiviAC_vr68TeiPzHYo4Mm1TUBJl0-gPRotMVyxReEgsb93AGphLNigfBv0W7TbQJnz004kVhUcOPaHY7Z7Tlcqqjxk9Fz_Rw3b8i0EukSMG4TpCZ7HgBg/s1209/20230630_103316.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggLgcN128ojcnmnFSKkC21Z4TxkhKmgrmVaVELsPjcnc2QwqSX1sk62V2zZFzqFBQoryXKffiviAC_vr68TeiPzHYo4Mm1TUBJl0-gPRotMVyxReEgsb93AGphLNigfBv0W7TbQJnz004kVhUcOPaHY7Z7Tlcqqjxk9Fz_Rw3b8i0EukSMG4TpCZ7HgBg/s320/20230630_103316.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7h6VXcS7xaVwslqqkWcalEGR9Z-wlt5H9OlA6ojSJsP60fdftAOcP-hM3A959F4mtFbjh-_pKc-Z4hJ4nzAt_qed43J2Vm02HQeJGA1JNtnzjJ_rxUPWg0vHmpCghHHUfFuctyOUVFm6hBY9xgRUEaukRc6w8hZk4cDK9385zfgte37_FTHPLxO5r6dY/s1209/20230630_103924.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7h6VXcS7xaVwslqqkWcalEGR9Z-wlt5H9OlA6ojSJsP60fdftAOcP-hM3A959F4mtFbjh-_pKc-Z4hJ4nzAt_qed43J2Vm02HQeJGA1JNtnzjJ_rxUPWg0vHmpCghHHUfFuctyOUVFm6hBY9xgRUEaukRc6w8hZk4cDK9385zfgte37_FTHPLxO5r6dY/s320/20230630_103924.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo non molto entriamo nel primo pueblo vero e proprio, Yalcobà, che ci stupisce perchè ha tutte le sue casette e le sue botteghine in ordine, colorate, pulite. Ci fermiamo in un negozio a prender da bere e tanti, passando, si fanno del gran risate leggendo i cartelli: "Non siete gringos, meno male. Non ci piacciono i gringos" dice un ragazzo, con un fondo di serietà che lascia qualche domanda cui è meglio non aver risposta. La piazza centrale ha, come sempre, i campetti attrezzati e una sorta di spiazzo coperto, in muratura. Qui ci sono dei bambini che fanno lezione di ballo di gruppo. E' la seconda volta che assistiamo a questa scena; chissà se è l'ora di educazione fisica o è proprio un corso a parte... In goni caso la musica aleggia nella plaza e risuona tra il municipio e la chiesa senza il tetto. Chissà se anche qui si tratta di quel tipo di architettura progettata dai conquistadores per convincere gli indios ad andare a messa, costruendo templi senza tetto, come era logico per i maya che veneravano gli astri... O se, più semplicemente, un tifone o un terremoto hanno danneggiato la copertura, che è crollata.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2qnmoX_TZ4zue6U0XVGy4oMogipS7D5Gy-8Z11UgBmi81sK32RJjP1kBMRGFODBHmANKvAAcIarvMxvLOJS7q6805B86hANdPFfj-kQK9KD3Ddq1ec1EuyrKo7_hLrXTqtkLVPNCRpuLlj8NPHioPDmIt2F49k1gFZymkdSzKP76RRFz8yJnxNTp8ks/s1209/20230630_104458.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2qnmoX_TZ4zue6U0XVGy4oMogipS7D5Gy-8Z11UgBmi81sK32RJjP1kBMRGFODBHmANKvAAcIarvMxvLOJS7q6805B86hANdPFfj-kQK9KD3Ddq1ec1EuyrKo7_hLrXTqtkLVPNCRpuLlj8NPHioPDmIt2F49k1gFZymkdSzKP76RRFz8yJnxNTp8ks/s320/20230630_104458.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2axzzcj9XRX64uo-1ysYAcmmPwSaSOgocG2lnr4_ag8fLT1tn01NQVL47F_VmX-fKmXCbBMFvZ2sR7OHSRGUXJcbh06ogRnAaLUudJXvroM6u_C9dfjtqx3NwEs1F0eeYjY9Mos0bDxOD-g6pq7fHBPJEogdv5peHuhv9LhFJ4OoyURVI_W8q6jaGdR4/s320/20230630_104516.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADN3ZIA4Ank55z0tJ_eskLYz6Q8_ZmOvPRXAOgpHdAp4XypJuJhDzi5nRF34PtsLFvpEtyFPz3uVstGkoPnLbKvaINpLNltLyL0BWzkYN4_FXhw_JjslhcRyqsdujfCjm66i85GUDYZn06XYVqeB1wZ0e_-caozH6ZJXZrBCWVEJwUxEAg10xsYhbVxw/s1209/20230630_110216.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgADN3ZIA4Ank55z0tJ_eskLYz6Q8_ZmOvPRXAOgpHdAp4XypJuJhDzi5nRF34PtsLFvpEtyFPz3uVstGkoPnLbKvaINpLNltLyL0BWzkYN4_FXhw_JjslhcRyqsdujfCjm66i85GUDYZn06XYVqeB1wZ0e_-caozH6ZJXZrBCWVEJwUxEAg10xsYhbVxw/s320/20230630_110216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2QYfVG-W9UJ5XrzwPd8Y6bFYZ2WdeEW-pfJvdd_I_8FY5ibWM7J9EuuAUNFizg1qqkzzHAwTPhEENoP6U3OFX4HkEvEK_rHGTtX2QdWFY5Zw58JpLDhqBkmc7kNUEbNOLnXHCwvCduVavLMBzzBR0IAKbanaAjkA4d47JcwBU6U127n95GPCo3kTL0YE/s320/20230630_110304.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8SdFocYGsuuQLPzPlFX_OWC4H_FPyaL4gxjQKDRB8GjfKLdO8pObLJAyFtioLYyqfo78D3Zpo2DD9C2zU94rvPUlPcrzukzffiIB9pfpH6Ot-zxtATaCxnxlSHF0ZdT51b0lC6iTbNNqXfupN1ybBsPxWZpNojSSHLCIqYPxYoLZOm24Krxd6CTqmhy0/s1209/20230630_110450.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8SdFocYGsuuQLPzPlFX_OWC4H_FPyaL4gxjQKDRB8GjfKLdO8pObLJAyFtioLYyqfo78D3Zpo2DD9C2zU94rvPUlPcrzukzffiIB9pfpH6Ot-zxtATaCxnxlSHF0ZdT51b0lC6iTbNNqXfupN1ybBsPxWZpNojSSHLCIqYPxYoLZOm24Krxd6CTqmhy0/s320/20230630_110450.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFt8CBpG0i_KDUMfHUUdZPsNHZJZcCrDEn8V05Dj8iP5EVK8x1_0mTfExQtRy0J8yOjftaRt8lzULr5xM9xQd5L8Ute48YOvcyYWst-eSUUVypsGeeOHTvjebT4hpr1Ao_2UMPJ20Ciq5-zgrEngE56tvzWd53k7AMHQpzmFl3Q3MyQlJFRCk_jIfb2X4/s979/20230630_110504.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFt8CBpG0i_KDUMfHUUdZPsNHZJZcCrDEn8V05Dj8iP5EVK8x1_0mTfExQtRy0J8yOjftaRt8lzULr5xM9xQd5L8Ute48YOvcyYWst-eSUUVypsGeeOHTvjebT4hpr1Ao_2UMPJ20Ciq5-zgrEngE56tvzWd53k7AMHQpzmFl3Q3MyQlJFRCk_jIfb2X4/s320/20230630_110504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Uscendo dal paese ci imbattiamo in case sempre più misere, spesso costituite da mattoni crudi impilati uno sull'altro a formare dei cubicoli, o in capanne di legno e foglie di palma per tetto. Nei cortili fangosi si intravedono qui una capra, là una gallina, qui un bambino, là una anziana che cucina.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjhRW6hNbOQFTYmxgfVOdqcbQQIPr1U1MQGqiVNvQMeE0XP2gblOWarZPmo74oMYCh9dsUBJrLKb69DTy4nWN5H0tJbKD62CdS35mVcoXT5jEeP1bZMNMNWeRuulHlB8omGl5JOqcdW8ad4B05CQVGfZybSjNV6yYto8Rd40kQYfvxTrXOymdEgAe8kk/s1209/20230630_110922.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidjhRW6hNbOQFTYmxgfVOdqcbQQIPr1U1MQGqiVNvQMeE0XP2gblOWarZPmo74oMYCh9dsUBJrLKb69DTy4nWN5H0tJbKD62CdS35mVcoXT5jEeP1bZMNMNWeRuulHlB8omGl5JOqcdW8ad4B05CQVGfZybSjNV6yYto8Rd40kQYfvxTrXOymdEgAe8kk/s320/20230630_110922.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXp1_KzoH8FIgwEmW7e7BCMQeWX673KWWX9J8Lj3J7YqjVRM7m-U-5IWe3kzx2LYd6Q7S-CjnzrOnyB9iCNv4_N5d4v9eDGniIJmVOeEePvwepgJ5xoLr2P64tNCfBt0zl50TyhyQrh0qCl4xlNKLc2iu8Rn79uv_GN37zScrPB5sK6TMK-MbYuJWidoU/s1209/20230630_110925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXp1_KzoH8FIgwEmW7e7BCMQeWX673KWWX9J8Lj3J7YqjVRM7m-U-5IWe3kzx2LYd6Q7S-CjnzrOnyB9iCNv4_N5d4v9eDGniIJmVOeEePvwepgJ5xoLr2P64tNCfBt0zl50TyhyQrh0qCl4xlNKLc2iu8Rn79uv_GN37zScrPB5sK6TMK-MbYuJWidoU/s320/20230630_110925.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUizXGFjjQFIEFsjPUQfh3AcM9YjK8G2Lk9M8o-ZS5eexTdJ-DXlQATO9VJvEnG3cmP--gXRnQozj0NaRB2zf-YVRuOajV3xULvoRma3-BBY9HXbr6lB_EoEx6SiDjQyegA5oMh8gJkQCwnI3VMmZfOh7GjIo2pt3leGrXPtg0gv_r328LQyJKFQAUZNQ/s1209/20230630_110934.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUizXGFjjQFIEFsjPUQfh3AcM9YjK8G2Lk9M8o-ZS5eexTdJ-DXlQATO9VJvEnG3cmP--gXRnQozj0NaRB2zf-YVRuOajV3xULvoRma3-BBY9HXbr6lB_EoEx6SiDjQyegA5oMh8gJkQCwnI3VMmZfOh7GjIo2pt3leGrXPtg0gv_r328LQyJKFQAUZNQ/s320/20230630_110934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Superiamo alcuni ranchos con delle mucche magrissime, tutte pelle e corna, e qualche cenote attrezzato, per poi raggiungere Dzalbay, altro pueblo maya, questa volta più piccolo e più malconcio. Non ho scattato molte foto perchè non volevo dar l'idea del "<i>Guavdate, cavi, questi sono i povevi. Non sono gli ultimi della tevva ma quasi. Fanno tenevezza, vevo?"</i>. Insomma, non mi piaceva l'idea che le persone che abitano questo luogo, che ci nascono, ci muoiono, ci costruiscono una vita con amore e con fatica, si sentissero esposti al giudizio di gente che non ha idea cosa significhi tutto questo. Probabilmente sono tutte paranoie e mie e i maya qui chillano e sono, anzi, orgogliosi dei loro pueblos. Chiederò, alla prossima occasione, se trovo qualcuno che parla almeno in spagnolo (cosa abbastanza rara, qui).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMsCf6Gff7uzdBhealZfHvrfvcMmKvE9xcxL1zqb0y-p1Xt7MzGZLEnBrGJqrUzIu3tvdGhmXFvO0sCxT-kdcks_6QurasPNocwBAyUDQtsXlFLM0LYCgMSYNxvTHe7Sw-7GR5iLYL7L59C51fzfZQicqFE1NwVkVkwpd3pFVJQhO3M1aHmInrdk8gyDY/s1209/20230630_112521.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMsCf6Gff7uzdBhealZfHvrfvcMmKvE9xcxL1zqb0y-p1Xt7MzGZLEnBrGJqrUzIu3tvdGhmXFvO0sCxT-kdcks_6QurasPNocwBAyUDQtsXlFLM0LYCgMSYNxvTHe7Sw-7GR5iLYL7L59C51fzfZQicqFE1NwVkVkwpd3pFVJQhO3M1aHmInrdk8gyDY/s320/20230630_112521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7RvMV0MqbgWYT58kvRN2Jedon4oYyTb-ckUbNN1O65cuGqTuoM1GK6OWpF0SFds_l9VHEAMJpFBDURzygjTDfHbEEj8fDB4UzCupjZfF93BGP15SpovzvJoaWVI4Ipt_3FLo0tybxiCOTcPCzvss8WXWpoVAYfUSny9P80l-iuCzj_H5uq6FcbQtbmlc/s1209/20230630_112524.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7RvMV0MqbgWYT58kvRN2Jedon4oYyTb-ckUbNN1O65cuGqTuoM1GK6OWpF0SFds_l9VHEAMJpFBDURzygjTDfHbEEj8fDB4UzCupjZfF93BGP15SpovzvJoaWVI4Ipt_3FLo0tybxiCOTcPCzvss8WXWpoVAYfUSny9P80l-iuCzj_H5uq6FcbQtbmlc/s320/20230630_112524.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJkYPht2RYFp3WHzu1vx-YVSq6OWVTK54FrE7nwDsmhRGX_3gtZkSnjsH3C-fTL73fnMJeZDwglKvzzlb94keVqhg01-zyIU530EbruDe5S3DtfBnApcQCx0wyrE3HQ0VBiDIv0kI2wTd02wDKcoMntsngkWiSBpFifkvfpdKnFn79UezyxBdxRhGD1Xs/s1209/20230630_112527.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJkYPht2RYFp3WHzu1vx-YVSq6OWVTK54FrE7nwDsmhRGX_3gtZkSnjsH3C-fTL73fnMJeZDwglKvzzlb94keVqhg01-zyIU530EbruDe5S3DtfBnApcQCx0wyrE3HQ0VBiDIv0kI2wTd02wDKcoMntsngkWiSBpFifkvfpdKnFn79UezyxBdxRhGD1Xs/s320/20230630_112527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1lkvQQQF2B0bKrzbWoOgeQ88ha97Nq9JEPFh--Mv1WU-iYIJmKoFng5O0NPSWRmI15kRCyn3rwJtxfeiw3cV5ZwbAteBxPWyKdBP3Dv0hmVbSZVvB5ITe4l0taESRd5P3Q9MLUMWw64BotoPTgz_qZRy3PcnTWu85RddhlAX3sIwJGfKEmgHvgDj_j24/s1209/20230630_113847.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1lkvQQQF2B0bKrzbWoOgeQ88ha97Nq9JEPFh--Mv1WU-iYIJmKoFng5O0NPSWRmI15kRCyn3rwJtxfeiw3cV5ZwbAteBxPWyKdBP3Dv0hmVbSZVvB5ITe4l0taESRd5P3Q9MLUMWw64BotoPTgz_qZRy3PcnTWu85RddhlAX3sIwJGfKEmgHvgDj_j24/s320/20230630_113847.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">una capanna seminascosta dalla vegetazione</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipODxxXH5Y5jnxm9nxncG0m-ZMhgAB7Y6Vcr-6Q8GgStkaev2TXsVEOpVPKCyXVuRXMg_DtDsUG3TJTSJFiLRckJQPb7mpInVX03z3z0YeG54y5ZAkqDe_Q1QaNGDtyeXnzJ2XFHyeKyGQlAyGmRVMv2AiAVi95JHlZeHuN6IdXYnzndAU782vpxJiA2w/s1209/20230630_113850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipODxxXH5Y5jnxm9nxncG0m-ZMhgAB7Y6Vcr-6Q8GgStkaev2TXsVEOpVPKCyXVuRXMg_DtDsUG3TJTSJFiLRckJQPb7mpInVX03z3z0YeG54y5ZAkqDe_Q1QaNGDtyeXnzJ2XFHyeKyGQlAyGmRVMv2AiAVi95JHlZeHuN6IdXYnzndAU782vpxJiA2w/s320/20230630_113850.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Raggiungiamo infine Hunukù, terzo e ultimo pueblo sulla strada. Il nome significa "un solo dio", e qualcosa mi dice che questa idea del monoteismo toponomastico non è venuta senza qualche suggerimento. Qui ci sono case in muratura, oltre alle capanne, e qualche servizio in più. Molti campesinos, in pausa pranzo, ci salutano. Bene così, anche perchè portano dei machete tanti che mi fanno sgranare gli occhi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzQlrAJRG09JBKKSsUeoXr2lg2mIk2UPBkI6npMqm0HBa7nPPWAwzEcUlcowrn1udDYa5hcpFS5ypF2TOkutShiqocHa5BCtkqdN9VJqDLk6qPHcBwBshqF-TDU1Cbp2XhRuU0_hXzmnV4rhwZpZx3aVVEEAQVFHHyYmzSWPr5eoXIiR41QM98WEZ8lc/s1209/20230630_114246.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzQlrAJRG09JBKKSsUeoXr2lg2mIk2UPBkI6npMqm0HBa7nPPWAwzEcUlcowrn1udDYa5hcpFS5ypF2TOkutShiqocHa5BCtkqdN9VJqDLk6qPHcBwBshqF-TDU1Cbp2XhRuU0_hXzmnV4rhwZpZx3aVVEEAQVFHHyYmzSWPr5eoXIiR41QM98WEZ8lc/s320/20230630_114246.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQDEjne-aCCAWdYOFVgrSOjxLsVs-07GdOKMl_7mSLTWDrxXA19sFwRKAQpI5GKSf-XPB3p2PlgUlKYWKyGQiJETdKbcIBOMw9d30pdO5_5DQM1k-49MhSKQWT37pAltUVXY1vT9ciyzsJV6hIgQ8gJTyqQGd3hX9XoLxBQ2_lY51_yH_9RrxdmaDHnes/s1209/20230630_114252.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQDEjne-aCCAWdYOFVgrSOjxLsVs-07GdOKMl_7mSLTWDrxXA19sFwRKAQpI5GKSf-XPB3p2PlgUlKYWKyGQiJETdKbcIBOMw9d30pdO5_5DQM1k-49MhSKQWT37pAltUVXY1vT9ciyzsJV6hIgQ8gJTyqQGd3hX9XoLxBQ2_lY51_yH_9RrxdmaDHnes/s320/20230630_114252.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTalT56vnuQmeQaP1mWsZxb4pb0HxLXWHJ9Fx5DAfZ8VTO6VtiADRV801FdJPAEMuxDMhlbViFwepgzPtOMgdv8WTPHrQS9m7hHmGhZ7byH7_BUC0rzFODqMVoNLDtDRZ_s407aKDrfMuSEQP3R7mXh3PTrklE2-8HSrhV-DbNxwtSSdQFXHAzYhCpcos/s1209/20230630_114355.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTalT56vnuQmeQaP1mWsZxb4pb0HxLXWHJ9Fx5DAfZ8VTO6VtiADRV801FdJPAEMuxDMhlbViFwepgzPtOMgdv8WTPHrQS9m7hHmGhZ7byH7_BUC0rzFODqMVoNLDtDRZ_s407aKDrfMuSEQP3R7mXh3PTrklE2-8HSrhV-DbNxwtSSdQFXHAzYhCpcos/s320/20230630_114355.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7gdK9Tf0rZ_71WpiIW8Wb6RZyb4H9e2FUvb626yIZYJvlZIaG6DUNnP4FTUkx_512is78UaZjXnvFwqYWhjHzknkAhfO4Ur4WC3nFCYZnh9ZMuFz3EpeixpaPN8mchiTrVOJUCiuEzeyVvAuu9pedoSGDaoBgm9Ch-9_wpUm_T1aCPHD05zNRKNFmCg/s979/20230630_114400.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7gdK9Tf0rZ_71WpiIW8Wb6RZyb4H9e2FUvb626yIZYJvlZIaG6DUNnP4FTUkx_512is78UaZjXnvFwqYWhjHzknkAhfO4Ur4WC3nFCYZnh9ZMuFz3EpeixpaPN8mchiTrVOJUCiuEzeyVvAuu9pedoSGDaoBgm9Ch-9_wpUm_T1aCPHD05zNRKNFmCg/s320/20230630_114400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmf3MS4zvmGKeTNhEckjnHZtq26eD0eF5puFFJFmzdWiN-0d8BN754a8BLRaU06tCIzRNmEu81DHzIFJGb0KRcqLOgMh13dIkLLkvqYn_EnyJie8T8L15FuZw-tidjICZIKS5G2_OAmDlYwG8N8Zx5buVcSydNIJ_RTnBkBebeukSb7cS9f12Hb_LAK78/s1209/20230630_114413.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmf3MS4zvmGKeTNhEckjnHZtq26eD0eF5puFFJFmzdWiN-0d8BN754a8BLRaU06tCIzRNmEu81DHzIFJGb0KRcqLOgMh13dIkLLkvqYn_EnyJie8T8L15FuZw-tidjICZIKS5G2_OAmDlYwG8N8Zx5buVcSydNIJ_RTnBkBebeukSb7cS9f12Hb_LAK78/s320/20230630_114413.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCllEwki9aycg440gHbjGCy5ANVifUcIzwZWfuPqyUvoFTlv6HNc6sDoKh71LBd3hF-yf_lxzyTnKESNPT4_m4yZEqywKdGd8zhD5HC4nENOho9hv7UnNxXzSVP4oNK-rIumbxLIEWBrbdgGxkpGH3EQLV9K5YffX15ewdErySR4aQyqF6wgqqejGHHqk/s1209/20230630_114418.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCllEwki9aycg440gHbjGCy5ANVifUcIzwZWfuPqyUvoFTlv6HNc6sDoKh71LBd3hF-yf_lxzyTnKESNPT4_m4yZEqywKdGd8zhD5HC4nENOho9hv7UnNxXzSVP4oNK-rIumbxLIEWBrbdgGxkpGH3EQLV9K5YffX15ewdErySR4aQyqF6wgqqejGHHqk/s320/20230630_114418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <div style="text-align: justify;">Al cinquantesimo kilometro arriviamo finalmente ad Ekbalam, prima tappa di oggi. Il villaggio in sè non ha niente da invidiare a quelli visti finora, ma qui si nasconde una chicca: un sito archeologico interessantissimo e poco battuto dal turismo di massa. Arriviamo bolliti, nel corpo e nello spirito, perchè è l'una di pomeriggio e fa un caldo devastante. La prima cosa che facciamo è bere acqua fresca e restare un po' all'ombra, all'ingresso del sito, in un viavai di iguane e farfalle enormi e coloratissime. Poi lasciamo le bici in custodia ai negozianti che vendono porcherie tutt'altro che artigianali nelle bancarelle intorno. Le leghiamo e tiriamo via tutto ciò che può ingolosire, ma probabilmente sono precauzioni inutili. Poi compriamo i biglietti, e stupisco del prezzo: 530 dollari messicani a testa! E' come una doppia in hotel di media categoria. Sono circa 26 euro. La guida parlava di una cifra pari a meno della metà di questa... Scopro che la quota che viene pagata per l'ingresso al sito è rimasta invariata e sono 90 pesos. I restanti 420 sono tasse imposte dal governo che non restano a chi lavora e mantiene le rovine. Sono i soldi con cui Obrador vuole finanziare il treno maya. Che è un'idrovora di denaro. Perciò ora si paga più del doppio!</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaZV1m4ax7-RiaQ-jtIvtrg6BgOUqMXutDF6nVjRDiiKmlOSSby4Ds3hNHPlwl0fYiFqmzS0ip5kqo8X81L6K_qDAFdPqJ8OIKdOx9S1oLmU6p5-hPZ36W1WJj6KLmZYXgw-3IGG4Fk7fi9yGUeGSLgKNxTrP1szyxiSXivO76Smr0f60hVkGWiVf7hSo/s1209/20230630_123234.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaZV1m4ax7-RiaQ-jtIvtrg6BgOUqMXutDF6nVjRDiiKmlOSSby4Ds3hNHPlwl0fYiFqmzS0ip5kqo8X81L6K_qDAFdPqJ8OIKdOx9S1oLmU6p5-hPZ36W1WJj6KLmZYXgw-3IGG4Fk7fi9yGUeGSLgKNxTrP1szyxiSXivO76Smr0f60hVkGWiVf7hSo/s320/20230630_123234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUdoc1Oqm7DEcr3hRetbG8MsYubYvuWVlyxsybVDeA0Pxqcej0V-J4v2iJUtTJXMRKe1iCOLMpsJ3xZ_PeDJPuN8SPGGU_azUXN6jHMynnF9n1N1PPtWUj79Ge4YeA9dudFh8AFv9UkK7_0i3P01mxlbXy_7E3y0DQqolDNqv-i0fLxE4ly879Ne0vaNU/s1209/20230630_123845.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUdoc1Oqm7DEcr3hRetbG8MsYubYvuWVlyxsybVDeA0Pxqcej0V-J4v2iJUtTJXMRKe1iCOLMpsJ3xZ_PeDJPuN8SPGGU_azUXN6jHMynnF9n1N1PPtWUj79Ge4YeA9dudFh8AFv9UkK7_0i3P01mxlbXy_7E3y0DQqolDNqv-i0fLxE4ly879Ne0vaNU/s320/20230630_123845.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A prescindere dal costo del biglietto, il sito vale la pena di essere visitato. Ekbalam significa "giaguaro nero" ed è stata una ricca e fiorente città maya che dominava una regione molto popolosa. I primi insediamenti risalgono addirittura al 300a.C., ma il periodo di massimo splendore si ebbe nell'VIII secolo, prima di essere abbandonata e poi ricostruita e abitata fino alla conquista spagnola. Gli archeologi stanno ancora lavorando per far riemergere gli edifici dalla vegetazione. Per ora risultano ben visibili le mura difensive e il relativo arco,</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvFM3AJxMboDZYSD9c-4tLzNnri_0UJDr1J4fKC5cME_4mnCRQC2H74BR8HKPy8nM00NJEgaBdFqkMo7V-cDnQ4eJbt0pPyKAFsIfLiw84sZ_MlBiyW-_kJ0gFfxzWsIeoP1hPgWVMhlNFm6LSlYQp6SOCxjdo0KQZW-U5ZuYTIl7aKfX6esQ7m_rbCM/s1209/20230630_132108.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvFM3AJxMboDZYSD9c-4tLzNnri_0UJDr1J4fKC5cME_4mnCRQC2H74BR8HKPy8nM00NJEgaBdFqkMo7V-cDnQ4eJbt0pPyKAFsIfLiw84sZ_MlBiyW-_kJ0gFfxzWsIeoP1hPgWVMhlNFm6LSlYQp6SOCxjdo0KQZW-U5ZuYTIl7aKfX6esQ7m_rbCM/s320/20230630_132108.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>il palazzo ovale e una piramide a gradoni</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7BEAM9Mk7u8855G1MYj62_HwcDtFwmN6MBPPFOHW0kd5lJzKIwRj0_sJwHaA9RUPyUZfbXYhctlpyGPCv31KdCLBqPRyEJb9qtMBxOdGGTj7g17p9grX-ITm7vVObVUoPdv_fL40ENC-nrIdtMcfTAkYq3OayjiRoq5d7MkPIlTwBWWKX93JSWXv3DA/s1209/20230630_132120.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7BEAM9Mk7u8855G1MYj62_HwcDtFwmN6MBPPFOHW0kd5lJzKIwRj0_sJwHaA9RUPyUZfbXYhctlpyGPCv31KdCLBqPRyEJb9qtMBxOdGGTj7g17p9grX-ITm7vVObVUoPdv_fL40ENC-nrIdtMcfTAkYq3OayjiRoq5d7MkPIlTwBWWKX93JSWXv3DA/s320/20230630_132120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHjxHFJxntf3hpHBY78AfwkTXaF8LupoEN9L_tDqFxUPrukyVP-SfFtHjkmVkyPv6CkvV-1vQJH8zVQ_vi3g3ieKC4jR2UVu3GROOsxci-8FdGABiBAu8uGHMu2mY6lGJC-QGh_-mDeu66fuLLsTtmeqCHYnUbP0L_JB1yYSp-ExicrLBQt1MEeXd0Omw/s979/20230630_132303.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHjxHFJxntf3hpHBY78AfwkTXaF8LupoEN9L_tDqFxUPrukyVP-SfFtHjkmVkyPv6CkvV-1vQJH8zVQ_vi3g3ieKC4jR2UVu3GROOsxci-8FdGABiBAu8uGHMu2mY6lGJC-QGh_-mDeu66fuLLsTtmeqCHYnUbP0L_JB1yYSp-ExicrLBQt1MEeXd0Omw/s320/20230630_132303.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYty-OGI0jrSKKsj50RQ6IikHpsQlk9-vpc7YTmUmo_xcv_QTKD5xAaWaqbVyuk7_irl4R1Ixsmr0Lecwl7t1jP0IwlMgHArmq8bGjlscWYlAaYxnGEDlUSg6ZVHGr-lHj2hiEfZGSqeEdU8hAAfSt2rMj-eoucQ8e8wWZbJV1tnNFcZXvA8bbJTgDsLs/s320/20230630_133025.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ7_k_G183UnMgmU3Cr7VE4hDjJ7T0XoyUK2zMECHSaqdAOJ3P8PsGy8RvDSbTXV_6zFAFg4g7cOVHG6gVSS8l2vLGZkrPrGM-71lXoTnzFfFB4hXERox-1jFZB8FvUBuaVcNcjJL2cGDZ1uVmwQDPnc1Xzlhu5k_auWuou6HraAsn5xzgmQfabu0mDYw/s1209/20230630_133233.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ7_k_G183UnMgmU3Cr7VE4hDjJ7T0XoyUK2zMECHSaqdAOJ3P8PsGy8RvDSbTXV_6zFAFg4g7cOVHG6gVSS8l2vLGZkrPrGM-71lXoTnzFfFB4hXERox-1jFZB8FvUBuaVcNcjJL2cGDZ1uVmwQDPnc1Xzlhu5k_auWuou6HraAsn5xzgmQfabu0mDYw/s320/20230630_133233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilefVSZMKHDKztMubUQ0O1HFVMP0HSH9U18ACw_h3i6MZOAeWT4JDy8xBUwogBNskZAFsCBwwdssjzEACLp1bka4-YJudYNiv5R6c0lH2Zi79b9XG1Y64Sdq2oR1sdJ70fKMreUYOwZfyHCQnbkFj4rOsbTOxUXrjJJ7egnMrdYa__m--9YjWLk9Cyz80/s1209/20230630_133253.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilefVSZMKHDKztMubUQ0O1HFVMP0HSH9U18ACw_h3i6MZOAeWT4JDy8xBUwogBNskZAFsCBwwdssjzEACLp1bka4-YJudYNiv5R6c0lH2Zi79b9XG1Y64Sdq2oR1sdJ70fKMreUYOwZfyHCQnbkFj4rOsbTOxUXrjJJ7egnMrdYa__m--9YjWLk9Cyz80/s320/20230630_133253.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLskvc8JT_8QP5EwfyBr5IKtAa09lnFLyUyUikbOsBwQ3V_IZyEiz2BmKe_ykJF9u7sHvVkVRqtjxa50NaraZjH5YoL5lwQRidZgwH6-8zqO4DBpbA040Ir8gmFC4S4wIK2b1VVRgI6YdehTdP-yW5vmE7qMr-em3kURfaia-pzemKPo350qMTEurkvg/s1209/20230630_133300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLskvc8JT_8QP5EwfyBr5IKtAa09lnFLyUyUikbOsBwQ3V_IZyEiz2BmKe_ykJF9u7sHvVkVRqtjxa50NaraZjH5YoL5lwQRidZgwH6-8zqO4DBpbA040Ir8gmFC4S4wIK2b1VVRgI6YdehTdP-yW5vmE7qMr-em3kURfaia-pzemKPo350qMTEurkvg/s320/20230630_133300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQrEaJHSpqfErnR0vSjqnYREiZbfG4k_11zFKa_zSjOhen82_uV3OyZneY_tnSGNrGqBagdoOB6zbgSRNndmIlvW_N2y7IXQ6rETT22XUZiMlb-ZC1rt6tQKY4pQAPiFehCwl9JjMWB5k-k1NHcBX0GiwbAB6QQz-I4gS-7xCunIoKAPXZQ0zw3iDcQU/s1209/20230630_133515.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQQrEaJHSpqfErnR0vSjqnYREiZbfG4k_11zFKa_zSjOhen82_uV3OyZneY_tnSGNrGqBagdoOB6zbgSRNndmIlvW_N2y7IXQ6rETT22XUZiMlb-ZC1rt6tQKY4pQAPiFehCwl9JjMWB5k-k1NHcBX0GiwbAB6QQz-I4gS-7xCunIoKAPXZQ0zw3iDcQU/s320/20230630_133515.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scarpe da bici con tacchette + gradoni di pietra = rischio sacrifico umano involontario</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUPP9gab1fxs-H8-bOZpsX9XMqfAM7g6OTWhgZ3n6jtUwtD3QGcEX2ht2fx0fHxHxdRrc2f_m4lFuoInZlE4KMFc9rRGimiThtPCmrEXRhxzWWbPkRp4aUCcZmz5oal1Q1GAm3nfoK16zRQ4ykfIi-cLCcbsC7qBCdkpGprAtsYGd9dxD-rj-EhbpFY5s/s979/20230630_133706.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUPP9gab1fxs-H8-bOZpsX9XMqfAM7g6OTWhgZ3n6jtUwtD3QGcEX2ht2fx0fHxHxdRrc2f_m4lFuoInZlE4KMFc9rRGimiThtPCmrEXRhxzWWbPkRp4aUCcZmz5oal1Q1GAm3nfoK16zRQ4ykfIi-cLCcbsC7qBCdkpGprAtsYGd9dxD-rj-EhbpFY5s/s320/20230630_133706.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn7AX5CfcGG6a0NRxVP-6q3Jg4HsZF70qkBjn5m9Uc0X3ebQ9WS1cZfFX4UHD2X6w8S82_Xx_DnPAcixZnV97rbPYxzS0wDMvLOZ1PjiQdkS0EuBFbfEiuNL6y4bAIpap3YwL9YqrzwsGtvKYLFlqq2x6V6arqPsDLssDe7mdducghG5sElWkAynlgbF0/s1209/20230630_133712.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn7AX5CfcGG6a0NRxVP-6q3Jg4HsZF70qkBjn5m9Uc0X3ebQ9WS1cZfFX4UHD2X6w8S82_Xx_DnPAcixZnV97rbPYxzS0wDMvLOZ1PjiQdkS0EuBFbfEiuNL6y4bAIpap3YwL9YqrzwsGtvKYLFlqq2x6V6arqPsDLssDe7mdducghG5sElWkAynlgbF0/s320/20230630_133712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3TVQQvNQIuigoAsV0nTnJcImSd5XV_WHpeTuHAIr_lRyWvLLo5nRbmzidL3ZrjyIv4Z2EATuAywe038Ki_0oIyb-yJ_jnKQVnlsDuhSvUJX9FENjWS__p9BBMod7A_B1Jb3ILyHSGiyXTaYHmYpvO5wleC4sN30hVYXWB8tOFja0MlJfBnHvtjpTbFs/s1209/20230630_133848.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3TVQQvNQIuigoAsV0nTnJcImSd5XV_WHpeTuHAIr_lRyWvLLo5nRbmzidL3ZrjyIv4Z2EATuAywe038Ki_0oIyb-yJ_jnKQVnlsDuhSvUJX9FENjWS__p9BBMod7A_B1Jb3ILyHSGiyXTaYHmYpvO5wleC4sN30hVYXWB8tOFja0MlJfBnHvtjpTbFs/s320/20230630_133848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwJYwmwjC6jj9gN4BJB6YEsG01wFhcECr3Pl4PuFheYMtirbyee1alTJS2z_kYQxz55Ny9400xdFrxafG8Y9aA8cmKo7zwe3d2h4bVJse-PXRUvkTCWUpSbBv4sg3J_Y80rsd38Cefuea0vVG5bHhkT_lEXlrxQlCRHgPcQ5ndMiuZTRB9Wrjocnjv7Q/s1209/20230630_133855.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwJYwmwjC6jj9gN4BJB6YEsG01wFhcECr3Pl4PuFheYMtirbyee1alTJS2z_kYQxz55Ny9400xdFrxafG8Y9aA8cmKo7zwe3d2h4bVJse-PXRUvkTCWUpSbBv4sg3J_Y80rsd38Cefuea0vVG5bHhkT_lEXlrxQlCRHgPcQ5ndMiuZTRB9Wrjocnjv7Q/s320/20230630_133855.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>e soprattutto la cosiddetta Acropolis, con galleria di stanze, su cui sorge la piramide centrale, alta 32m. Qui si trovano raffigurazioni di teste di serpente e giaguaro, teschi di stucco e guerrieri e sciamani.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPK149232eCg_t57v6mxb8pMwe5WcYR2-fhOfIa-8AZ_SpwGHnqJKEqwBpyeS6YUGqDmhVmCzecsHW7giRCewS4q83aTeuZQDAs4WucDnjoEs2cCP3Ooq5SN8PqLjtJG5K8kSGD05RNFv2yBniArNfE7ZlbQlcck-3XFL0jCYpp4JNtbVNDe2jQCvnvY/s1209/20230630_134140.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPK149232eCg_t57v6mxb8pMwe5WcYR2-fhOfIa-8AZ_SpwGHnqJKEqwBpyeS6YUGqDmhVmCzecsHW7giRCewS4q83aTeuZQDAs4WucDnjoEs2cCP3Ooq5SN8PqLjtJG5K8kSGD05RNFv2yBniArNfE7ZlbQlcck-3XFL0jCYpp4JNtbVNDe2jQCvnvY/s320/20230630_134140.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgshCgZ3mDIJXmE5U6TQOAX6ACNAGT-fHsO11wbnZR9JMaEDfx27cXZpLnUXVLVMUmPCjVEn_bPbYN1kPzSfB7AGIB5SrczCrhycBo_IQzSTAdPXBtbVwCo0tYtD1oYqfuNzjXSYosks4szQJg7tsfqC_FM_NndiWaKyh6kPFX-Q5vvql9RIuZ4FSjEbq0/s1209/20230630_134212.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgshCgZ3mDIJXmE5U6TQOAX6ACNAGT-fHsO11wbnZR9JMaEDfx27cXZpLnUXVLVMUmPCjVEn_bPbYN1kPzSfB7AGIB5SrczCrhycBo_IQzSTAdPXBtbVwCo0tYtD1oYqfuNzjXSYosks4szQJg7tsfqC_FM_NndiWaKyh6kPFX-Q5vvql9RIuZ4FSjEbq0/s320/20230630_134212.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La particolarità di questo sito archeologico è che, su alcuni monumenti, si può ancora salire, cosa ormai vietata quasi ovunque. Ovviamente non mi lascio scappare l'opportunità di un colpo di calore nell'affrontare la ripidissima scalinata della piramide. Gigi non ci pensa neanche e mi aspetta alla base, all'ombra. Io rischio il coccolone, questa volta più che mai, perchè il gradini sono stretti e alti e le mie scarpe da bici non offrono presa salda. E ovviamente tutto è sotto al sole implacabile, e son le due del pomeriggio. Però ne vale la pena: dall'alto si vedono gli altri palazzi e templi sbucare dalla vegetazione, che un verde oceanico tutto a torno, a perdita d'occhio. In cima, nello stordimento totale, faccio anche due chiacchiere con un gruppo di storici e archeologi peruviani e la loro troupe: stanno girando un documentario.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRkk73UlaegJaV7xlvhMH4xAOVKyc2RS9z0gDQlcOu2XgGVxz17dJpNf-gvIonr2rx2RvMB6rQcyUMB8uDqyw8g9ST4BoTuzVdnNlZJfgXA2Xtkm-jIgByKnlmOdr_4QdpIuZCnCtt3sK3N05-SBTSCIulxyt_2_JXtMrOXimQdpMpI-6_IpCCq3fLF0/s1209/20230630_134326.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRkk73UlaegJaV7xlvhMH4xAOVKyc2RS9z0gDQlcOu2XgGVxz17dJpNf-gvIonr2rx2RvMB6rQcyUMB8uDqyw8g9ST4BoTuzVdnNlZJfgXA2Xtkm-jIgByKnlmOdr_4QdpIuZCnCtt3sK3N05-SBTSCIulxyt_2_JXtMrOXimQdpMpI-6_IpCCq3fLF0/s320/20230630_134326.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigcgiVo8-ntbIjv4jmobXSqWaOGychmRxyOIkwmd5HitDqUqC_GgVCVQD1aJJdC1vltbD7qlsUnFwKTFpv8qdCPr1n2t7B6jmatj2DJyvMXHHCCJhJQJeJmjMRJ_BZfZ5pb9A8eUHc6I2pC1iotpRS4igzVAjBv3bI2NZy37mYZPj5hk7mkRVgWeribso/s1209/20230630_134423.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigcgiVo8-ntbIjv4jmobXSqWaOGychmRxyOIkwmd5HitDqUqC_GgVCVQD1aJJdC1vltbD7qlsUnFwKTFpv8qdCPr1n2t7B6jmatj2DJyvMXHHCCJhJQJeJmjMRJ_BZfZ5pb9A8eUHc6I2pC1iotpRS4igzVAjBv3bI2NZy37mYZPj5hk7mkRVgWeribso/s320/20230630_134423.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAtDJ9mQMxRVDuXRyo-5XHrnY6Z6q7D7wmosi4KSOLifNPZGW4ln7daht2RICUYIHDee_ZUGXx-bGze0E49L52BVTYhmDFlziaosVR5TWGF-3fS1_oZYQr_QKz2lbjpvqNjkcpqlyjHsRLI3x3sKZ5vXy-ZPNKkEM1XpvnKWaRyxv04tCHL9Gs22z7AlM/s1209/20230630_134437.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAtDJ9mQMxRVDuXRyo-5XHrnY6Z6q7D7wmosi4KSOLifNPZGW4ln7daht2RICUYIHDee_ZUGXx-bGze0E49L52BVTYhmDFlziaosVR5TWGF-3fS1_oZYQr_QKz2lbjpvqNjkcpqlyjHsRLI3x3sKZ5vXy-ZPNKkEM1XpvnKWaRyxv04tCHL9Gs22z7AlM/s320/20230630_134437.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-MFjjC2n7ELyFOl4YBrQaxOXSJd0GWuJRFTTGyHD4jmPHyLoX7OexP95dURzMLHvxhrhrq8ubUYxLo6HUER0wfAI54IEZlQVhhLj2g7bQnGWKWtu-uRHc9PNvC2-4LonEWBw_MOlS2aSKeE4N7Yl6a13xQtmpCaOKc_ctcG00SpYikxfpGywTwJGOjG8/s1209/20230630_134441.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-MFjjC2n7ELyFOl4YBrQaxOXSJd0GWuJRFTTGyHD4jmPHyLoX7OexP95dURzMLHvxhrhrq8ubUYxLo6HUER0wfAI54IEZlQVhhLj2g7bQnGWKWtu-uRHc9PNvC2-4LonEWBw_MOlS2aSKeE4N7Yl6a13xQtmpCaOKc_ctcG00SpYikxfpGywTwJGOjG8/s320/20230630_134441.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWtFJcbkOM--CYiG4YsgWPdRaEs6HPO_1K5z7visN0XaHNO1aIzhf6w5IZB_a-2BrnzyFaLyAiJjMJH_UK3Wb2eKFmMHZPuE7kYbURveUIMHhqzxw_nPAbAiQd3oVEC-ZXFL2EUbb3SQ7e0Z5zbcgHBjjKnnCffJIxYeyWf8ksu6pVirKzQ6fQgu748E/s1209/20230630_134624.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWtFJcbkOM--CYiG4YsgWPdRaEs6HPO_1K5z7visN0XaHNO1aIzhf6w5IZB_a-2BrnzyFaLyAiJjMJH_UK3Wb2eKFmMHZPuE7kYbURveUIMHhqzxw_nPAbAiQd3oVEC-ZXFL2EUbb3SQ7e0Z5zbcgHBjjKnnCffJIxYeyWf8ksu6pVirKzQ6fQgu748E/s320/20230630_134624.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJUw9R8nqE8g1iYq33gc4PD5g13Jdq3cGpvZ56FKapKU6BNTsc86ULL2t_ZXc4-UvmTAFUlA7Ny6VDiPRZ1e7GvMFig57qDiC-kDbuElxRBuAybHJ7Qa8YpAObiqPQbu0fU27KASq4EV735_EuCSJOjCdsW7-4o14GC2guJpT35C1Sc8cd-m1JN-dJM0/s1209/20230630_134644.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIJUw9R8nqE8g1iYq33gc4PD5g13Jdq3cGpvZ56FKapKU6BNTsc86ULL2t_ZXc4-UvmTAFUlA7Ny6VDiPRZ1e7GvMFig57qDiC-kDbuElxRBuAybHJ7Qa8YpAObiqPQbu0fU27KASq4EV735_EuCSJOjCdsW7-4o14GC2guJpT35C1Sc8cd-m1JN-dJM0/s320/20230630_134644.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfGQfj4LSx0BLlPOhSPcWq6XwqKpb3VTQBSTjhdo5F10SeV7NkPfASx6cKsgpz3Uf0tFijuiOtjDeL2JJsJz-SSjo_YJW0uVoCcFhcpdyoO7N0cwUhRwoBwu0Lb2y6L5BvD5G2Hiqu6vCbZE0i9wWHMfkXtjIZViEqCPtLZBls93-EGMCj05b3L-rRnuU/s1210/20230630_134839.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfGQfj4LSx0BLlPOhSPcWq6XwqKpb3VTQBSTjhdo5F10SeV7NkPfASx6cKsgpz3Uf0tFijuiOtjDeL2JJsJz-SSjo_YJW0uVoCcFhcpdyoO7N0cwUhRwoBwu0Lb2y6L5BvD5G2Hiqu6vCbZE0i9wWHMfkXtjIZViEqCPtLZBls93-EGMCj05b3L-rRnuU/s320/20230630_134839.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Una volta scesa ho bisogno di un attimo per riprendermi dal quasi collasso. Poi finiamo di visitare il sito, che vanta anche un campo da gioco della palla. Quello sport rituale per cui, se vincevi, ti facevi malissimo, se perdevi diventavi vittima sacrificale.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNSZrySoFfQvZ9Zw0g3E0kgb-mAonIN5wsv7uzkhyjPMG-N1GpRAvL9fnNXj1SZTuBUALn-LmL2y32vja6hzjT73GEDBzUDnucLKF4jxA8pP3NHenzzklXYPRsBVWQTKA5aTrHO4uknuSyxm5jDo1kTRXetr42xywVu87e4AfXmB90AoqKUqvxYQVp17U/s1209/20230630_140605.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNSZrySoFfQvZ9Zw0g3E0kgb-mAonIN5wsv7uzkhyjPMG-N1GpRAvL9fnNXj1SZTuBUALn-LmL2y32vja6hzjT73GEDBzUDnucLKF4jxA8pP3NHenzzklXYPRsBVWQTKA5aTrHO4uknuSyxm5jDo1kTRXetr42xywVu87e4AfXmB90AoqKUqvxYQVp17U/s320/20230630_140605.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQs9c61DjfIwJbCs8bTh3UZcFCKaf56KiiXv4xQNwdcjW8MSOv7PNL8tv8rOVl4JCbIZJRa08wwJqxwFFGNtHUrmR8yPRGH28X-oy1wABj5Dk3SdLxDs_fIvJoh6PH50kEuOh3w5f3KRnjlDoHlZ-YbmbaSDOqmyIg1Nt01wWC36f_5k5pzPUvtTuTpv8/s1209/20230630_141121.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQs9c61DjfIwJbCs8bTh3UZcFCKaf56KiiXv4xQNwdcjW8MSOv7PNL8tv8rOVl4JCbIZJRa08wwJqxwFFGNtHUrmR8yPRGH28X-oy1wABj5Dk3SdLxDs_fIvJoh6PH50kEuOh3w5f3KRnjlDoHlZ-YbmbaSDOqmyIg1Nt01wWC36f_5k5pzPUvtTuTpv8/s320/20230630_141121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSg8qC5uDiNBgd9iRyeUhT-PVSM7EBPVTWBYFBoLQ8dXTrupwYutlWVXrn6qfwDS__HUkvfMwr6dBZPQ5SsTxpr_R79_umcgBcwj5BEUQ4XfXJ_FYYA5e0cggIfNZQ88FxRVKjDbLne9IqSAW8Uw9GPqufs6u5fSt5ITlD2YcVYFd75AY6Jb-bXw7bvg/s1209/20230630_141556.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSg8qC5uDiNBgd9iRyeUhT-PVSM7EBPVTWBYFBoLQ8dXTrupwYutlWVXrn6qfwDS__HUkvfMwr6dBZPQ5SsTxpr_R79_umcgBcwj5BEUQ4XfXJ_FYYA5e0cggIfNZQ88FxRVKjDbLne9IqSAW8Uw9GPqufs6u5fSt5ITlD2YcVYFd75AY6Jb-bXw7bvg/s320/20230630_141556.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjckbSow78YE838YmINdTQGfUgsHb_Z96akjom1b4rXPux7efEXYZVWDcY1c8p2_GVpRYklX6em77Fcao6irgazRTTSd1BjnwuU-C8_2mmOce9gR9CBarKmOHlaT0g-CXh1MNY3_dpkHya8SUbaAStR6CFBt1B74HqbllI-myFTaKsnsxBQENwOcsNZnGU/s1209/20230630_141623.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjckbSow78YE838YmINdTQGfUgsHb_Z96akjom1b4rXPux7efEXYZVWDcY1c8p2_GVpRYklX6em77Fcao6irgazRTTSd1BjnwuU-C8_2mmOce9gR9CBarKmOHlaT0g-CXh1MNY3_dpkHya8SUbaAStR6CFBt1B74HqbllI-myFTaKsnsxBQENwOcsNZnGU/s320/20230630_141623.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkQvuzhABgbrA8lXcjJFedyxKz5gkcJfDVAjxoT1tRpWQbtG4o7xjSVYBMUSLEaGWL_4r1Ick8Vx_DcM5NEzZtW0kA4dNMXj6BjVxrtHloawwmM_veohG2K2TuN_L8Y-aSrfdvFJOH3AMqCnY2W_zG9VCeCfqVRHhpOT1qgP4Hq65i19sxyktYIWKmOU/s979/20230630_141629.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkQvuzhABgbrA8lXcjJFedyxKz5gkcJfDVAjxoT1tRpWQbtG4o7xjSVYBMUSLEaGWL_4r1Ick8Vx_DcM5NEzZtW0kA4dNMXj6BjVxrtHloawwmM_veohG2K2TuN_L8Y-aSrfdvFJOH3AMqCnY2W_zG9VCeCfqVRHhpOT1qgP4Hq65i19sxyktYIWKmOU/s320/20230630_141629.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiurvTRkZeeqbs5JKELxdUDF0l_UQhGo5LqRg9E5O9IzzvGzSZsXDqcrAZKDrD9WNtBJfJbQIrLbOBDaNTF74lOQc0Frmd5-FeQFQIwTmkEe9Qyq4ApUxRvfcBwNhlMUvc71HXu-5ILdal1OcpPRgf0aHzgG69vTA5jmQhinD9bz59J-HhZbTPQ5aUqkWg/s1209/20230630_141726.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiurvTRkZeeqbs5JKELxdUDF0l_UQhGo5LqRg9E5O9IzzvGzSZsXDqcrAZKDrD9WNtBJfJbQIrLbOBDaNTF74lOQc0Frmd5-FeQFQIwTmkEe9Qyq4ApUxRvfcBwNhlMUvc71HXu-5ILdal1OcpPRgf0aHzgG69vTA5jmQhinD9bz59J-HhZbTPQ5aUqkWg/s320/20230630_141726.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una volta fuori ci pappiamo un ghiacciolo artigianale al cocco è qualcosa di divino: è polpa di cocco freschissina, pressata e messa in freezer. Paradiso puro. Mi accorgo anche che le guide che offrono tour al sito si fanno pagare 600 pesos per la spiega in spagnolo (30 euro), 800 pesos (40 euro) per quella in altre lingue, tra cui inglese, francese e italiano. E' razzismo? E' discriminazione? E' che per parlare altri idiomi devi studiare e qui non è garantito e gratuito? Chissà.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOFcolFcifZaTbUR-NdZkL-uPJz1A64xyV0J-diw68mf_scgu_2xiXqLvtfeyEaEF3E9stZ7uRAVxM59t8GVR9JyW9l2FzFjmV6Xa_T9GVNHLtLU1BQGAXwx7Ma_zwRWnHvHekyifNaH6DTH69QJ_FOqEGl1tpJfEYxxcDnJZr9xRlvGwEkIiCP43-7FQ/s1209/20230630_145248.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOFcolFcifZaTbUR-NdZkL-uPJz1A64xyV0J-diw68mf_scgu_2xiXqLvtfeyEaEF3E9stZ7uRAVxM59t8GVR9JyW9l2FzFjmV6Xa_T9GVNHLtLU1BQGAXwx7Ma_zwRWnHvHekyifNaH6DTH69QJ_FOqEGl1tpJfEYxxcDnJZr9xRlvGwEkIiCP43-7FQ/s320/20230630_145248.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Con un grandissimo, immenso, gigantesco sforzo di volontà torniamo in sella. Fa tanto caldo. Ma ci aspettano altri 30km per arrivare a Valladolid, meta di oggi. Con le gambe molli e il cervello ridotto a orzata, spingiamo senza forza sui pedali, e piano piano, pianissimo, maciniamo i kilometri. Facciamo solo una breve sosta a Temozon, città di falegnami e carpentieri che, con il legno fanno tutto: sedie, tavoli, armadi, mobili di ogni tipo, bici, cavallini a dondolo, monopattini, soprammobili e tutta l'oggettistica che può venirvi in mente. Espongono il frutto della loro arte direttamente in strada e sembra tutto un grande mercatino. Noi ci limitiamo a prender dell'acqua e ad approfittare della ritrovata connessione per prenotare una stanza nella Casa Azul, già individuata ieri, a due minuti dalla piazza centrale di Valladolid.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLe4pBVRTKHnwqT7a2IpHTE3xBJFqjVlKUf1Yb1rMpzwt3LwDyuUWlT_VQ6Y1U_4fkkozUmFeE6ary9p-7ICdOGeINPiPhw9J2n7rOvWqK9uXyzVoZ1HES5FsI8-LVJQPtcsVXvuagFeYc6e87arnuKIGxIhux2KeuiMnccUNqS4J_vz9DLKNp-HJtbA/s1209/20230630_153224.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLe4pBVRTKHnwqT7a2IpHTE3xBJFqjVlKUf1Yb1rMpzwt3LwDyuUWlT_VQ6Y1U_4fkkozUmFeE6ary9p-7ICdOGeINPiPhw9J2n7rOvWqK9uXyzVoZ1HES5FsI8-LVJQPtcsVXvuagFeYc6e87arnuKIGxIhux2KeuiMnccUNqS4J_vz9DLKNp-HJtbA/s320/20230630_153224.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJydOFd3eu_p46JaCyZPvJiTOWXAiw_lwqcBimBHJB3bcWhhqYdkjvbMTuLZnJ47oiaV5fGmBhTKLPIMsePt-7tgUIwsDP8NlolPwnmlhuenhxiuiHKBLVpyFsyS7_rVDuqDVTaUi43l1U1HxOEH_5sH785e6AFvoBJN0i3AngBFxUOBwfjqRQjOoFus/s1209/20230630_161035.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJydOFd3eu_p46JaCyZPvJiTOWXAiw_lwqcBimBHJB3bcWhhqYdkjvbMTuLZnJ47oiaV5fGmBhTKLPIMsePt-7tgUIwsDP8NlolPwnmlhuenhxiuiHKBLVpyFsyS7_rVDuqDVTaUi43l1U1HxOEH_5sH785e6AFvoBJN0i3AngBFxUOBwfjqRQjOoFus/s320/20230630_161035.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT7IpF5AEgOpcbP1-sAoI2NZi4b2pCklH9FkQfWwJ6YYBJY-_kK6ReXJ4_e2MHidocBVMxaYGJJgmkzXrkuHDovRhr837-EgtCt_GKHB_Nxb1R6qx-tSXF183yMZuo-bv4LFG5L12WybEyv4nfEMrZjdTj9m7ipGRDw1uln0RZDDtMXJYMdiRzprNy7VY/s1209/20230630_164657.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT7IpF5AEgOpcbP1-sAoI2NZi4b2pCklH9FkQfWwJ6YYBJY-_kK6ReXJ4_e2MHidocBVMxaYGJJgmkzXrkuHDovRhr837-EgtCt_GKHB_Nxb1R6qx-tSXF183yMZuo-bv4LFG5L12WybEyv4nfEMrZjdTj9m7ipGRDw1uln0RZDDtMXJYMdiRzprNy7VY/s320/20230630_164657.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ancora un po' di fatica e ci siamo. La proprietaria ci accoglie nella sua casa, riadattata ad albergo. Lasciamo le bici in un cortile interno, dove un gruppo di uomini e signore anziane è intento a sminuzzare verdure e tagliar carne (perchè, sempre nel cortile, la sera vendono tacos). Poi prendiamo possesso della stanza, che è un mini appartamento con ancora, sugli armadi, i nomi dei bimbi che vivevano qui. Alle pareti ci sono i ganci per le amache, elemento immancabile nelle case messicane di questa regione.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLqHfxbPMZo_Yx_exO-51yapHoXGlQQJ7yJjfsoYgAqvOY5Ahu8G4LWmzfJSYztS0bUntEXl_C0zIU04RLTZFHibnL1DxpZ0mi10Ppu4JHk_qC1qgHtBMkoZOnDlOBtqYi9wGpW82rfy2Di_Y1sqoXwPVtZsvJ88ehL5tvkqerm9TdAsD10-_XcH3QcSs/s1209/20230630_172245.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLqHfxbPMZo_Yx_exO-51yapHoXGlQQJ7yJjfsoYgAqvOY5Ahu8G4LWmzfJSYztS0bUntEXl_C0zIU04RLTZFHibnL1DxpZ0mi10Ppu4JHk_qC1qgHtBMkoZOnDlOBtqYi9wGpW82rfy2Di_Y1sqoXwPVtZsvJ88ehL5tvkqerm9TdAsD10-_XcH3QcSs/s320/20230630_172245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Q9U7cv25ZQFPfmDHEfZPEEXSJiCuRTEGIZX5C7hmMQk69FhnqhSvUkBpApdKh3kwXmQqn-h392vNl61mlRSQJO4iPanbl4XLktGBYSXu9dBUANTSNmlU7FOTgZNuMa9gRIL-DOJ9NNb1H5U2JhJlWyfVJX-qtyjBWZwQUE5i0751f0tkZ18ILZFZC44/s1209/20230630_172454.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Q9U7cv25ZQFPfmDHEfZPEEXSJiCuRTEGIZX5C7hmMQk69FhnqhSvUkBpApdKh3kwXmQqn-h392vNl61mlRSQJO4iPanbl4XLktGBYSXu9dBUANTSNmlU7FOTgZNuMa9gRIL-DOJ9NNb1H5U2JhJlWyfVJX-qtyjBWZwQUE5i0751f0tkZ18ILZFZC44/s320/20230630_172454.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Dopo la doccia abbiamo bisogno di un'oretta per riprenderci dalla caldazza invereconda che ci portiamo ancora addosso. Usciamo poi per cena, e questa volta decidiamo di optare per un ristorante che faccia cucina locale e assaggiare un po' di piatti tipici. Mai scelta fu più azzeccata. In un locale gestito da due signore, dove il cortile interno è freschissimo e accarezzato da una brezza magica, le lucine pendono dai rami e, mentre aspetti la cena ti portano dei giochi per ingannar l'attesa, assaggiamo Guajillas, ravioli di mais ripieni con formaggio e carne e conditi con una salsa leggermente piccante, nopal ahogado (foglia di cactus alla piastra con formaggio e pomodoro, servita come una bistecca) e la papas rancheras immancabili. Tutto è più che buonissimo!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAJfC-olw8GbvDw73pXfQBFDDCLb_xu3wEfKZ3ZqS8zNdzREK9xJSS5xuzPDjZBaVR0XUhQ5EWjR2RZXF96Rk3Qxo4ASZak014Tx1NaCIjp9z5P2SRujLxwj6Pg4N91SIuVbXltgCefgIhHiSNFavTknce0xD7qH3DhIPxDKtUenr6vk9ZuyafsfDAHD0/s1209/20230630_193852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAJfC-olw8GbvDw73pXfQBFDDCLb_xu3wEfKZ3ZqS8zNdzREK9xJSS5xuzPDjZBaVR0XUhQ5EWjR2RZXF96Rk3Qxo4ASZak014Tx1NaCIjp9z5P2SRujLxwj6Pg4N91SIuVbXltgCefgIhHiSNFavTknce0xD7qH3DhIPxDKtUenr6vk9ZuyafsfDAHD0/s320/20230630_193852.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2Pv5vrD8qCQSyDldpXSt3DCGuOdDjvDVa0nziKViBF6rLDOGRUtbl6QvUa3JAcsXSQjURcM3Cpq4DUC3iCejZCEKaBGxJ59b1nGmaQSGNxQ5XfiH76Jc_LJk2VOiUJhagbaD537-gRM_yWUIdVufKLC-6CbTMQzfZbxhthefJJ_w9CcS_3s_b7uw2_M/s1209/20230630_193916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2Pv5vrD8qCQSyDldpXSt3DCGuOdDjvDVa0nziKViBF6rLDOGRUtbl6QvUa3JAcsXSQjURcM3Cpq4DUC3iCejZCEKaBGxJ59b1nGmaQSGNxQ5XfiH76Jc_LJk2VOiUJhagbaD537-gRM_yWUIdVufKLC-6CbTMQzfZbxhthefJJ_w9CcS_3s_b7uw2_M/s320/20230630_193916.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-OYBQWHwONOc7iHsOYeIMSubVDr0HIU-02fKKdcPoXKIHGLFwdiipO0IJmt7oJGXM_mqJg_KFjIBKklLTP6TA_TUCKGpV9EW0S1iTt5ZxN1m0jxRSRDFu7rzE51lFrMmHs3oywSFUzPMn7n53VK6NFzTO55DjUCUX91zXnm420jIaL0xRk6y3enad-k/s1209/20230630_194201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-OYBQWHwONOc7iHsOYeIMSubVDr0HIU-02fKKdcPoXKIHGLFwdiipO0IJmt7oJGXM_mqJg_KFjIBKklLTP6TA_TUCKGpV9EW0S1iTt5ZxN1m0jxRSRDFu7rzE51lFrMmHs3oywSFUzPMn7n53VK6NFzTO55DjUCUX91zXnm420jIaL0xRk6y3enad-k/s320/20230630_194201.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOjymvLeN3TfCazcL2X2fb0VIy5w0g7J10i4pwgQ4Guk5CX0Yq5qH4CMEtQRmw-4AGRxY0bCCpPuwg9NT7-6Ulf8-QhFRfDBQEnLccEqEjKDLFmZKq8KFbr88O67p858jhs015pK_aUiGIqF6AA9lEtIbl24L3DvjKreRaGp8vVy0YuptBOs9Gr1lUUqI/s1209/20230630_200050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOjymvLeN3TfCazcL2X2fb0VIy5w0g7J10i4pwgQ4Guk5CX0Yq5qH4CMEtQRmw-4AGRxY0bCCpPuwg9NT7-6Ulf8-QhFRfDBQEnLccEqEjKDLFmZKq8KFbr88O67p858jhs015pK_aUiGIqF6AA9lEtIbl24L3DvjKreRaGp8vVy0YuptBOs9Gr1lUUqI/s320/20230630_200050.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5SgbXx5gF62dJXyjMrtrw5xjKTGbNHaoRghsyBtsrwUScgagYtKXdg7Egpk6pRnxOOZ55ptsTBeCA9EmvS7J9jVWgWk90OJYFI8GXZdhQnklrCjmOk9JOspDhoEx7NnU54UkehE29pZD1WFq-FNmAYKrN66QRv7gzSqJykpwMlRZUPbSAYOXGmFSy3c/s1209/20230630_200138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5SgbXx5gF62dJXyjMrtrw5xjKTGbNHaoRghsyBtsrwUScgagYtKXdg7Egpk6pRnxOOZ55ptsTBeCA9EmvS7J9jVWgWk90OJYFI8GXZdhQnklrCjmOk9JOspDhoEx7NnU54UkehE29pZD1WFq-FNmAYKrN66QRv7gzSqJykpwMlRZUPbSAYOXGmFSy3c/s320/20230630_200138.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo cena facciamo due passi nella piazza centrale, dove ferve la movida del venerdì sera. Di Valladolid parleremo domani, quando ne faremo una visita più approfondita. Per ora solo qualche pennellata di acquarello: musica, risate e chiacchiere. L'aria che rinfresca. Ragazzi sulle panchine del parco che mangiano pannocchie con formaggio, gelato o crepes croccanti con frutta fresca. Un via vai continuo di gente, ma sereno, con aria rilassata e di festa. Edifici con portici e un chiaro stampo coloniale. La mole della Cattedrale che domina su tutto, e ogni mezzora si schiarisce la gola con un rintocco limpido di campane. La luna quasi piena. Una serata di pace.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgF2lAjWu8JRrWxiZcLuONSAoCqRjAjd48VrSVsD1RdlPfPlr0enMk8XOh6BJtydV5dCPBJiT4rw-UW9fF9MCllMNPqCR7ZSZQhXg7uF57Tep8QuTacNpM4Ft-02NuCUOpfEQKdj1Xig28GMeFXWnvL8x7_puB78F_h4ANyNrZy7I39vh2NPrBsS8xGrU/s1209/20230630_203759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgF2lAjWu8JRrWxiZcLuONSAoCqRjAjd48VrSVsD1RdlPfPlr0enMk8XOh6BJtydV5dCPBJiT4rw-UW9fF9MCllMNPqCR7ZSZQhXg7uF57Tep8QuTacNpM4Ft-02NuCUOpfEQKdj1Xig28GMeFXWnvL8x7_puB78F_h4ANyNrZy7I39vh2NPrBsS8xGrU/s320/20230630_203759.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRzlBPlc7OACZvPRATuodKevf3YBwvZTG_IhhfMu3dl4gZ_8_ZTi73v47feENda-7_EAN2awVvdbUpsBQDMFuaLacyylB6b23fbaPN_xCmHS-dzNWncJxJ0g5uGtx_QG3BqHKZ1hfD0H5H-uyvdM63hApahF-ChkT07DboQrszRqC2-MEdM1wV6tjJNc/s1209/20230630_203804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRzlBPlc7OACZvPRATuodKevf3YBwvZTG_IhhfMu3dl4gZ_8_ZTi73v47feENda-7_EAN2awVvdbUpsBQDMFuaLacyylB6b23fbaPN_xCmHS-dzNWncJxJ0g5uGtx_QG3BqHKZ1hfD0H5H-uyvdM63hApahF-ChkT07DboQrszRqC2-MEdM1wV6tjJNc/s320/20230630_203804.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaxLBXFAK0z2l4r5o9iPH-Ho1je7SGBKE-tGBNzVRT1JszM7C-kj2GApgX9LPAv7_SGlMxFNmbcdPRU-HE9_ZLJhKwAp8ZOYpusXqjiFhkkbRYDAIBqqBjmRJ0XWnZceqvVN-iyWu7Q20VJe05oqp_6yGoaQXHqR07FuBUd16uVRMRQpv3HPe623TZfw/s1209/20230630_203944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaxLBXFAK0z2l4r5o9iPH-Ho1je7SGBKE-tGBNzVRT1JszM7C-kj2GApgX9LPAv7_SGlMxFNmbcdPRU-HE9_ZLJhKwAp8ZOYpusXqjiFhkkbRYDAIBqqBjmRJ0XWnZceqvVN-iyWu7Q20VJe05oqp_6yGoaQXHqR07FuBUd16uVRMRQpv3HPe623TZfw/s320/20230630_203944.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGGBMlZ39QihYBHdXifIQBDo8bWwOJo-2wDNNmot5xfiPWYAKC56D71yO6Kbh0n81QVEN1mW7jGx76xqOME03AT9m2pACCVLb7zS-42iieu71ccInUASDoPrE8NElvqZm7vjH33zK2iy9p_W1TImsAcI4kzDGf1w2uu-sxca8DKIE_if7GERlx4ahW0I/s1209/20230630_204601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGGBMlZ39QihYBHdXifIQBDo8bWwOJo-2wDNNmot5xfiPWYAKC56D71yO6Kbh0n81QVEN1mW7jGx76xqOME03AT9m2pACCVLb7zS-42iieu71ccInUASDoPrE8NElvqZm7vjH33zK2iy9p_W1TImsAcI4kzDGf1w2uu-sxca8DKIE_if7GERlx4ahW0I/s320/20230630_204601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdns4oIKX2156b1HH6_30_RAKgQXIp0Mss9e0KC2sObTsD3yyTx8oYbYQQbuvqWkfcvEIguE42c0KF59UrUEu6tfXC5axNritzMP0AtlkXYo4zPmoj7NKKYNCRV43_WtJLHlzc5OOozDW_8B8oXkArC0b_Idza65RJO7VtNzlsFhDAhsESK3WUmyQ3EM/s1209/20230630_204605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLdns4oIKX2156b1HH6_30_RAKgQXIp0Mss9e0KC2sObTsD3yyTx8oYbYQQbuvqWkfcvEIguE42c0KF59UrUEu6tfXC5axNritzMP0AtlkXYo4zPmoj7NKKYNCRV43_WtJLHlzc5OOozDW_8B8oXkArC0b_Idza65RJO7VtNzlsFhDAhsESK3WUmyQ3EM/s320/20230630_204605.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7L4H3P_BK2zTxA8hypf4KBitxwM4Ps0QkTflmqBd9AF6AsXx1IS2DOkWeaYDdWGBdSe5gey0eQEtFtLS3VNDHuUiT78uAInWJAR8eNqfbGGHtG4v_iLUfFv5CegO-kuf9XXEOMUnCwqdyOKmUOv0LVfdTDqPp-MnSEI0o_m0t9Y4v8_4q3JDVM1GOk0/s1209/20230630_204744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7L4H3P_BK2zTxA8hypf4KBitxwM4Ps0QkTflmqBd9AF6AsXx1IS2DOkWeaYDdWGBdSe5gey0eQEtFtLS3VNDHuUiT78uAInWJAR8eNqfbGGHtG4v_iLUfFv5CegO-kuf9XXEOMUnCwqdyOKmUOv0LVfdTDqPp-MnSEI0o_m0t9Y4v8_4q3JDVM1GOk0/s320/20230630_204744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LEur2eIg5FHyTzLS3zJCD4dqbOgXGKnRs_L9ne4HIN8dPeLnazY0LOXxV5HNGWnQoClDZ3ToMRUFwsBPyMIPCnqHKObZpCvyEqSFbyk5UqgZdKXG3VwqUteWYqZvnRY_iZwwb06NTtbYNptfesmg9Piex_9YMsSZ2zm1bKEO3xgeYfX0_vofMuIYanE/s1209/20230630_205056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1LEur2eIg5FHyTzLS3zJCD4dqbOgXGKnRs_L9ne4HIN8dPeLnazY0LOXxV5HNGWnQoClDZ3ToMRUFwsBPyMIPCnqHKObZpCvyEqSFbyk5UqgZdKXG3VwqUteWYqZvnRY_iZwwb06NTtbYNptfesmg9Piex_9YMsSZ2zm1bKEO3xgeYfX0_vofMuIYanE/s320/20230630_205056.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Rientriamo che è ancora presto, ma domani ci attende un'altra giornatona: pedaleremo solo 50km, perchè ci attende, per via, una delle nuove meraviglie del mondo. Chichen Itza.</div></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-74968452143632592192023-06-28T06:47:00.002+02:002023-06-29T03:54:43.025+02:005-6. Tulum - Riserva di Sian Ka'an. BICI RITROVATE.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvWyi72Wn_p0nrskQyFnDjKsuI7iZ-lwMFTuDoG0eEelFjIZowANvvbT4VqaWiAmaF1wzmuOPpXm9JTc6oCmW42a10gM1rJZHksIplXwvQt-g46ZgyJ65OyyUWKXPkhfSf6KnzZw-n56Hh_griCr9z29tZ_fV4lCuUdHIpCEqpzaedEJMtNBEdV8aKlc/s1092/20230626_162506.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="819" data-original-width="1092" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvWyi72Wn_p0nrskQyFnDjKsuI7iZ-lwMFTuDoG0eEelFjIZowANvvbT4VqaWiAmaF1wzmuOPpXm9JTc6oCmW42a10gM1rJZHksIplXwvQt-g46ZgyJ65OyyUWKXPkhfSf6KnzZw-n56Hh_griCr9z29tZ_fV4lCuUdHIpCEqpzaedEJMtNBEdV8aKlc/w640-h480/20230626_162506.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9L77kh1m-YH2wY24JlfOBtfG8tW8H3RhCULXpRFGMG7GztD2VNb2uEXQZklU-CiKX47tcNRqDD-_4T8Xd7FQrwk-VppoOC5gD0AbVdk8PdTcUA-Q9onNPscc_r9pr2YKS0sBNc9gdE5KoU7536_jCZ6x2J6TQ266UCvbkmAkbXgEknnb86Bn_ySDNBtA/s1131/20230627_134526.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1131" data-original-width="848" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9L77kh1m-YH2wY24JlfOBtfG8tW8H3RhCULXpRFGMG7GztD2VNb2uEXQZklU-CiKX47tcNRqDD-_4T8Xd7FQrwk-VppoOC5gD0AbVdk8PdTcUA-Q9onNPscc_r9pr2YKS0sBNc9gdE5KoU7536_jCZ6x2J6TQ266UCvbkmAkbXgEknnb86Bn_ySDNBtA/w300-h400/20230627_134526.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCM6YIoj2PBPubuCyVQ7Xchn952BFFjyCRme7O4pd44hs_Squ1btLwgv7fo_y3MS7K2V68kFCoxeHwBUh-Mjt7JEXItH0rXjZvvEtEq20mzU_pXQAMd_rDgdFwNN5K1Qv7szXNvccCrQRH8AO9iycnNOGXCy-z-BjWS2BheiZK9rhah0srpArb9YL1vk/s1209/20230627_141429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCM6YIoj2PBPubuCyVQ7Xchn952BFFjyCRme7O4pd44hs_Squ1btLwgv7fo_y3MS7K2V68kFCoxeHwBUh-Mjt7JEXItH0rXjZvvEtEq20mzU_pXQAMd_rDgdFwNN5K1Qv7szXNvccCrQRH8AO9iycnNOGXCy-z-BjWS2BheiZK9rhah0srpArb9YL1vk/w640-h480/20230627_141429.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC3bM9HyzjNsYEeRDBapIAzXJCxsIYmyIQHzyPXjkHu_hf6Di9gcOFa-w8FHzkcfDFCmgU9P4L1kdVyguGYJ4MUGh0ymwPtZMDXEI_a_7llHYVUKuMRP4gVXG-rtu__mJV5j0uGvytL8FAEctBukp6q5CTgxvMOPNRXITcJ3PYnLn49e_b_MkGRRmJ-Qk/s1209/20230627_152757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC3bM9HyzjNsYEeRDBapIAzXJCxsIYmyIQHzyPXjkHu_hf6Di9gcOFa-w8FHzkcfDFCmgU9P4L1kdVyguGYJ4MUGh0ymwPtZMDXEI_a_7llHYVUKuMRP4gVXG-rtu__mJV5j0uGvytL8FAEctBukp6q5CTgxvMOPNRXITcJ3PYnLn49e_b_MkGRRmJ-Qk/w300-h400/20230627_152757.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">26/7</div><div style="text-align: left;">Cancun-Tulum (via Riviera maya) con autobus (quinto giorno senza bici nè bagagli)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">La notte trascorre pressochè insonne: fino a tardi discutiamo i possibili scenari, e ad ogni vibrazione del telefono ci precipitiamo a leggere sperando ci siano novità. L'attesa a tempo indeterminato è una tortura lenta e terribile, diciamocelo.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma dopo troppe speranze deluse, arrivano i messaggi tanto attesi. Gli amici di Gigi si sono attivati e han smosso mari e monti. La compagnia aerea ha inviato una mail. Il call center della sede di Madrid ha risposto a mia zia. Pare proprio che i nostri bagagli siano stati individuati, ancora a Madrid, e saranno imbarcati sul primo volo disponibile, martedì 27. L'entusiasmo galoppa, ma cerchiamo di non lasciarlo correre troppo perchè un'ulteriore delusione potrebbe attenderci, e a quel punto il rischio di perdere tutte le speranze diventerebbe concreto.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma bando alle ciance, non possiamo farci immobilizzare dal dubbio, dalle incertezze. Oggi non dobbiamo pensare alle bici al conseguente destino del nostro viaggio. Oggi andiamo a esplorare qualche nuovo lembo di questa terra! Animo!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Le decisioni da prendere sono tante e si affastellano nella mia testa a ritmo folle. Come ottimizzare questi tempi di attesa? Come riorganizzare le tappe e il percorso da pedalare?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">L'idea arriva subito: oggi e domani concentriamoci sulla Riviera maya. Così, quando avremo le bici, punteremo direttamente verso Valladolid, Chichen Itza e Merida, recuperando tempo sulla tabella di marcia, ma senza rinunciare a nulla di quanto previsto, anzi pregustato.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quindi oggi facciamo check out dalla camera, ormai ridotta a mefitica tana, in cui ci rifugiamo da giorni, con l'idea di tornarci domani sera ad accogliere le nostre bici come con festa grande ed eventuali mariachi. Impacchettiamo i nostri quattro stracci puzzolenti e, così, ci tuffiamo nell'aria umida e rovente diretti alla stazione degli autobus, che ormai conosciamo come le nostre tasche. Facciamo il biglietto, direzione Tulum. Gigi riesce anche ad acquistare, nell'attesa, un farmaco importante di cui ha finito la scorta che si era portato nel bagaglio a mano. Oggi tutto va bene e le cose hanno una piega che pare un sorriso.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ci carichiamo sull'autobus senza aver ancora prenotato un hotel in cui dormire stanotte. Si farà durante il tragitto. E anche in questo siamo fortunati. Troviamo una camera economicissima in una struttura in centro che, oltre ad essere gestita da local e ad avere una vocazione eco-friendly, ha un'estetica meravigliosa. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXPiuOyUK4jPnMfxsa1wV7SOpVIe_aZhfELwRnoT267cCnNyd_afBgGUXnBjUUcAxnrv86eEwm3nYljaxMaMcHXZrNJd3xh0XOrq_0EVJnUU8eM2MTyhXTfK7boNFriFSPjNBI8FFDurX72Y69i0PclY9xBny6Ve6mzW7LCvZGkIPppmsZQnWsmjbPaM/s979/20230626_120849.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXPiuOyUK4jPnMfxsa1wV7SOpVIe_aZhfELwRnoT267cCnNyd_afBgGUXnBjUUcAxnrv86eEwm3nYljaxMaMcHXZrNJd3xh0XOrq_0EVJnUU8eM2MTyhXTfK7boNFriFSPjNBI8FFDurX72Y69i0PclY9xBny6Ve6mzW7LCvZGkIPppmsZQnWsmjbPaM/s320/20230626_120849.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60Ev74Xl7uLPBa-D7WS8wHUcb1ITiNOkEiHRBVlo1W7HmPxlSZVo0WvM8uRdz3w1l6KMzQ6dfLynDiDj4rsF1Q1EnGlQ6QvQ1ADrpOg_ZH6VbysVHEf76-yZ0ELxeMkRzJNu2IHzwlwBXTcleNCcibct3R00K6_vI0UmDf7KK3nadHf78Au2gC7p4GHI/s1209/20230626_120858.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60Ev74Xl7uLPBa-D7WS8wHUcb1ITiNOkEiHRBVlo1W7HmPxlSZVo0WvM8uRdz3w1l6KMzQ6dfLynDiDj4rsF1Q1EnGlQ6QvQ1ADrpOg_ZH6VbysVHEf76-yZ0ELxeMkRzJNu2IHzwlwBXTcleNCcibct3R00K6_vI0UmDf7KK3nadHf78Au2gC7p4GHI/s320/20230626_120858.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7I8GYO7TkkTJtsQXZZHWO601NRigjP3OpFnBZr1jl8OCjgunALdnQ11t1u6nq3NL0tgWqq34Gqq5DDH--StjgSbMZ9EUXEizvd8d2MYAoDPPBaUWSdVATVs9eJOjSuORORoy63G0EYdJbs7lvXyKeTOBJaM-gU2OSQIwCL4h70KT346v5M8jiPpf4zoo/s1209/20230626_120907.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7I8GYO7TkkTJtsQXZZHWO601NRigjP3OpFnBZr1jl8OCjgunALdnQ11t1u6nq3NL0tgWqq34Gqq5DDH--StjgSbMZ9EUXEizvd8d2MYAoDPPBaUWSdVATVs9eJOjSuORORoy63G0EYdJbs7lvXyKeTOBJaM-gU2OSQIwCL4h70KT346v5M8jiPpf4zoo/s320/20230626_120907.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-BMb62PIcLRo7GONw-Q2AiCx3vyZMWAnnPb5UzZX-6XrT5rv0JgNeiCfRsKDs7NQqSi_-LSJs0G_JzJ0G5YdyEQVQzNRIwt4ycc2GoJW-jIazxkflR9yVPWr6r5QppvDHvin1ea5QiHBhdzXLxLSW1qJjA-UblyGr0TO1OQFxR5pODK6HJq_Nzw2fvYo/s1209/20230626_122515.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-BMb62PIcLRo7GONw-Q2AiCx3vyZMWAnnPb5UzZX-6XrT5rv0JgNeiCfRsKDs7NQqSi_-LSJs0G_JzJ0G5YdyEQVQzNRIwt4ycc2GoJW-jIazxkflR9yVPWr6r5QppvDHvin1ea5QiHBhdzXLxLSW1qJjA-UblyGr0TO1OQFxR5pODK6HJq_Nzw2fvYo/s320/20230626_122515.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il primo impatto con Tulum, oltre alla mazzata in capo della calura, che fa appannare gli occhiali quando si scende dal bus con l'aria condizionata a mille, è quello di una cittadina turistica, sì, ma più sottovoce rispetto a Cancun. In modo più modesto, per quanto non, forse, più autentico. La via centrale è un susseguirsi di negozietti di souvenir e locali. Però non ci sono grandi alberghi, palazzoni e resort che nascondono il mare. Ci sono invece tante case dal tetto di frasche, molte strutture, anche grandi, a mo' di capanna (senza pareti, di legno e con tetto di fogliame) e edifici colorati di murales e mosaici. C'è anche tanta polizia, armata fino ai denti e impegnata a controllare le auto e i camion che transitano dalla città. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLUBPU5ZmxJeTesB0szBNVGelqMK2jqvoebu-C5PHqvlTT_ax7AyVotoG9VfwquY9mD-ke-9x9ChrXfs2lBzQjqlQl8rQ2GzZ5hyXkS3iUNiRbFKfzV3pNnxd0WLf6C9Z4ZmocpfGcCFsCRb9Kp1ycDxFYIYxX3BWUHMGR40J4h7kNxE6PXbvmrkE1wYc/s1209/20230626_125738.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLUBPU5ZmxJeTesB0szBNVGelqMK2jqvoebu-C5PHqvlTT_ax7AyVotoG9VfwquY9mD-ke-9x9ChrXfs2lBzQjqlQl8rQ2GzZ5hyXkS3iUNiRbFKfzV3pNnxd0WLf6C9Z4ZmocpfGcCFsCRb9Kp1ycDxFYIYxX3BWUHMGR40J4h7kNxE6PXbvmrkE1wYc/s320/20230626_125738.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo aver preso possesso della nostra stanza, ci ributtiamo in strada, in un caldo devastante che ci scioglie le scarpe e la volontà, diretti alle rovine archeologiche. Costeggiamo ampi tratti di giungla di mangrovie, che qui è tenuta a bada solo a causa della progressiva, lenta ma inarrestabile cementificazione. E forse la flora si rimangerebbe persino strade e case, se ci si distraesse un attimo. Qua e là, per via, si incontrano ambulanti che vendono panini, burritos, frutta esotica dei colori e delle forme più insoliti o cocco fresco appena raccolto e squartato con dei machete alti come me.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0Zf9nYc94zhKjs7YVhXSpJQAECh4maZNpYGxuhfxxB8Y12p3g2j9KkXl8Vr6A15sZkg80vLAmOLhFlcWi3H7v8pCIVlPyxRvYXdOmzyZp2tVc44CLYgqemuV80Y0hQTGPiH0YFDKY9lYJaxbFZPOVuMa1qmsh_43rTaaQVj8BALvZPHyQd20sD5EiiI/s1209/20230626_130054.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0Zf9nYc94zhKjs7YVhXSpJQAECh4maZNpYGxuhfxxB8Y12p3g2j9KkXl8Vr6A15sZkg80vLAmOLhFlcWi3H7v8pCIVlPyxRvYXdOmzyZp2tVc44CLYgqemuV80Y0hQTGPiH0YFDKY9lYJaxbFZPOVuMa1qmsh_43rTaaQVj8BALvZPHyQd20sD5EiiI/s320/20230626_130054.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacr43TwDz4xeIUEqaI5uSU3dvJXtK36hA7TtOLNpLKuMmLgCr8Tjp-MSRaiqMosgRB7vD_qVnuyPkfYzvHFbhug3WtnlqD-xOFfTan1C0CpnprmM8ZHCccgtDstpaCJyYP_n69CiGqq8339GgSNGpzVFlWTnMCZy3KvFEFG695DEfuKGnO2lyLQT6jBE/s1209/20230626_130912.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacr43TwDz4xeIUEqaI5uSU3dvJXtK36hA7TtOLNpLKuMmLgCr8Tjp-MSRaiqMosgRB7vD_qVnuyPkfYzvHFbhug3WtnlqD-xOFfTan1C0CpnprmM8ZHCccgtDstpaCJyYP_n69CiGqq8339GgSNGpzVFlWTnMCZy3KvFEFG695DEfuKGnO2lyLQT6jBE/s320/20230626_130912.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Raggiungiamo finalmente. dopo 3km di abbrustolimento, il punto di accesso alle rovine e, da lì, camminiamo ancora per 3km, facendo lo slalom tra finti addetti al sito, che cercano di vendere il loro tour privati, e un labirinto di negozietti e baracchini di souvenir e parafernalia con sombrero e baffi. Stiamo diventando più abili nel districarci, ma la camminata su sterrato tra le mangrovie ci annebbia comunque i già rallentati cervellini. Non ci facciamo abbindolare ma sbagliamo strada, anche perchè qui è tutto un cantiere aperto con decine di operai che buttano giù asfalto rovente; camminiamo tantissimo, poi ancora e ancora per tornare indietro e raggiungere le ruinas vere e proprie. Scopriamo subito che ne è valsa la pena.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dkw0ovKwDipb8CujdD0-bDv5mmGqSqy-JlpPv7JAY_ieKoj22sYSDns4GeS1XQg5MVGlTTDJlSKqD1La0t8wM3lXtNDbPIKuotS_xJP_UgzguUlGohuRZQ9OkIfrXzEIgebnsllvZ9a_qLA_YsYZwADBE1JbfVWL2vZDWVKyeOrVjy8Y1UMQCSV-al4/s1209/20230626_141626.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dkw0ovKwDipb8CujdD0-bDv5mmGqSqy-JlpPv7JAY_ieKoj22sYSDns4GeS1XQg5MVGlTTDJlSKqD1La0t8wM3lXtNDbPIKuotS_xJP_UgzguUlGohuRZQ9OkIfrXzEIgebnsllvZ9a_qLA_YsYZwADBE1JbfVWL2vZDWVKyeOrVjy8Y1UMQCSV-al4/s320/20230626_141626.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVIWFZ0z6tIDI4ZYSZWuokyjykoPIeVLod4Bv_P0PHMlgBYX5hviwphKpyyIX8YxiTLRbCBEW1PIL2MCwSjRkqudEmAVtqQ68JZgmgmHMBqS9GNoFOF97HyS_HVuskeTNSSlsTM-MWJgeehSVbIvEqf2AHb1ncJDEjRprZmQ5G4HVuqGbU9N165NRjHiA/s979/20230626_141814.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVIWFZ0z6tIDI4ZYSZWuokyjykoPIeVLod4Bv_P0PHMlgBYX5hviwphKpyyIX8YxiTLRbCBEW1PIL2MCwSjRkqudEmAVtqQ68JZgmgmHMBqS9GNoFOF97HyS_HVuskeTNSSlsTM-MWJgeehSVbIvEqf2AHb1ncJDEjRprZmQ5G4HVuqGbU9N165NRjHiA/s320/20230626_141814.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tulum ha un triste primato: fu la prima città maya ad essere avvistata dagli spagnoli, nel 1517, in quanto posta su una scogliera a picco sul mare, roccia su roccia che affaccia a spiagge di sabbia candida e finissima. La posizione era anche stata la sua fortuna: si trattava infatti di un fiorente centro di scambi commerciali via mare; da qui passavano pesce, miele, sale, ossidiana e piume di quetzal. Il periodo di massimo splendore di questa città pare sia stato quello postclassico (1200-1521), quando i maya veleggiavano lungo tutta la costa fino all'attuale Belize. Quando gli spagnoli arrivarono, rimasero stupiti dalle altere mura, dagli edifici dipinti di rosso, azzurro e giallo e dal fuoco rituale che ardeva in cima alla torre di guardia, specchiandosi in mare.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Le mura, che proteggevano gli edifici amministrativi e cerimoniali su tre lati (il quarto affaccia al mare) sono segno di quanto accanite siano state le lotte tra città-stato maya.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma dopo soli 75 anni dalla conquista spagnola, qui nessuno viveva più; i maya, comunque, continuarono a recarsi qui in pellegrinaggio e sempre qui i nativi in fuga dalla guerra delle caste trovarono rifugio. Tulum significa, infatti, in lingua maya, muro, e dà l'idea del luogo. Ma questo nome è stato attribuito dagli archeologici che hanno riscoperto il sito nel XX secolo; il nome originale era Zama, alba, che, vista da qui, sul mare, deve proprio essere uno spettacolo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftSRE_X52106ikiS3gBC3QiMCe5eHzq4hgN7hk9loNE3UJyXjW4i9va6wJlJILQee9u4Vfr6ybnvodWWTnUdxSxY_I7k0EHoaKn02kYz7fGVKqCIrRFVjFitQP8qSSUVeAj10wu1YI_gpWTm2u6wDIZ3K-XfIVlLSI1WUud3ObxT07g058F-Ir2clL74/s1209/20230626_142049.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftSRE_X52106ikiS3gBC3QiMCe5eHzq4hgN7hk9loNE3UJyXjW4i9va6wJlJILQee9u4Vfr6ybnvodWWTnUdxSxY_I7k0EHoaKn02kYz7fGVKqCIrRFVjFitQP8qSSUVeAj10wu1YI_gpWTm2u6wDIZ3K-XfIVlLSI1WUud3ObxT07g058F-Ir2clL74/s320/20230626_142049.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkbeeNIVLqpf9R3pxprH16WfMm28EI2ux4A6O1HTXmviJS7DhsiJFuzK9jYjkG-YnetR63G3p1l61AvQmb_ZQ3C4QEKb1lTacwPdXlATJ0m976UnlgJDhxkVOddZlUyps1Rf2exj5kCQNfgDSL1dwAmk1CiCzY3fL43aYyjPCqaxijGVdOGgGcEixot0/s1209/20230626_142123.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkbeeNIVLqpf9R3pxprH16WfMm28EI2ux4A6O1HTXmviJS7DhsiJFuzK9jYjkG-YnetR63G3p1l61AvQmb_ZQ3C4QEKb1lTacwPdXlATJ0m976UnlgJDhxkVOddZlUyps1Rf2exj5kCQNfgDSL1dwAmk1CiCzY3fL43aYyjPCqaxijGVdOGgGcEixot0/s320/20230626_142123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCKMN0EvGH_7RCSArypxyeApL98haEnu9Pozr0XAaCt1jxRaS8z-9nO2mNQcb84QG883r9Gp9e-LIqY6fPRXecJkFgBUL7U4lYgdLGB_SAJQDPsLT-EU5Tfitxaehi6B4yMosGsrWUCWOyFAzzhsRjQhfb-DtOpMkbAyJ3rjbrsnpv3592qUW_VRMRD4/s1209/20230626_142127.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCKMN0EvGH_7RCSArypxyeApL98haEnu9Pozr0XAaCt1jxRaS8z-9nO2mNQcb84QG883r9Gp9e-LIqY6fPRXecJkFgBUL7U4lYgdLGB_SAJQDPsLT-EU5Tfitxaehi6B4yMosGsrWUCWOyFAzzhsRjQhfb-DtOpMkbAyJ3rjbrsnpv3592qUW_VRMRD4/s320/20230626_142127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbEVoOsTTUUy7G5y9N2JGwUWw7C5qEJX3heYUpH32gNB-aXphoaMw1JDz6i45VBi1Xz6MhPnFQ2iZQbMD03uN-Q1Bm_wRn4nMBTUE70KJqbuWSa0grZo2QWH_jitpyeuYmx5HpCby6u-6H1kQD0klZuNIMoBOlRoWWUnQjVLYq5g1ptajjWv1ZGkQby4/s1209/20230626_142159.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbEVoOsTTUUy7G5y9N2JGwUWw7C5qEJX3heYUpH32gNB-aXphoaMw1JDz6i45VBi1Xz6MhPnFQ2iZQbMD03uN-Q1Bm_wRn4nMBTUE70KJqbuWSa0grZo2QWH_jitpyeuYmx5HpCby6u-6H1kQD0klZuNIMoBOlRoWWUnQjVLYq5g1ptajjWv1ZGkQby4/s320/20230626_142159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Oc1WsSkS7FR1WH8q1ms8CIemcJga-Z8HYZTOV8-KS3U0p1HITsPZr_5R00fMCsCO1JOzb9essK1iFT537PIBJnzy6HIsAJ32FBdqcNoVNXKHiuhlutiE97NY8kO5C4q6mjGs1EVYGK55E-RTcRPC2sHphv_Fmkd0gxgTbgaOONVdQT6h2tWVZmWdbsw/s1209/20230626_142218.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Oc1WsSkS7FR1WH8q1ms8CIemcJga-Z8HYZTOV8-KS3U0p1HITsPZr_5R00fMCsCO1JOzb9essK1iFT537PIBJnzy6HIsAJ32FBdqcNoVNXKHiuhlutiE97NY8kO5C4q6mjGs1EVYGK55E-RTcRPC2sHphv_Fmkd0gxgTbgaOONVdQT6h2tWVZmWdbsw/s320/20230626_142218.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Gli edifici più interessanti (tutti popolati da iguane), oltre alle mura e alle torri, sono la cosiddetta "Casa del cenote", il tempio del dio del vento, il tempio delle pitture (con murales variopinti e maschere in rilievo) e quello del "dio discendente", una divinità a testa in giù che rappresenta forse il culto delle api e del miele. C'è poi il tempio della stele, che ha fatto impazzire gli studiosi perchè qui han trovato una stele, appunto, con una data di molto precedente (1000 anni!) a quella che tutti concordavano fosse la fondazione della città (la stele si è poi capito che arrivava da un altro luogo vicino ma più antico, Tankah). La struttura più maestosa resta il Castillo, con serpenti piumati in stile tolteco (i Kukulcanes).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKZLBD3dc1sRs-hO-l8V0j0lQNQkK4Oys4d8qKsDPxc6Sed2Xai4qGi397vdMgJcVmsaTmGelJSTyvcflmobBe79lqt-IYRsgQi01Hlzewje4baoP7mxBzWuoMFwDL5HlRhjQCZFKzk1am8Hhs74RO3CLMO5qpbLlfr9-uK8M1qEIr_gZPK-HzBpLyC24/s1209/20230626_142226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKZLBD3dc1sRs-hO-l8V0j0lQNQkK4Oys4d8qKsDPxc6Sed2Xai4qGi397vdMgJcVmsaTmGelJSTyvcflmobBe79lqt-IYRsgQi01Hlzewje4baoP7mxBzWuoMFwDL5HlRhjQCZFKzk1am8Hhs74RO3CLMO5qpbLlfr9-uK8M1qEIr_gZPK-HzBpLyC24/s320/20230626_142226.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Lxm8BYkiD_HyENuHh2Wt1nZhvUb3LecVRMEnr0smKSpFoRUOplUAYM8tIPYzIe8YPHG7uasnebu0SqxWE288lyo-vPf5xpqgWBGzQzapkOEwCFfXCyDBYXiioqYDlA5MrglEZaTaemiD1X7eoYeE6bmzMud3oojLAJUMbeEyoGVGDY5YtrnAyVgF7aA/s1209/20230626_142240.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQkE3AQg_Q2nC-zZAkvSGITtG-4mNKFmDxLdcO18us0XE5ZqoeOQXtMZpEP0FGIvuakqifwcwlSFHcCMZQLF7YaKrql4V3LmpuRAYaz9qAb9ii_cHHUFkUo7P2i91mGBeFM17vVnzEfmn_cGMAo5XwsuigbzZ4ADGCshZVKmaZ6KFvtJUNqaGi8k-cts/s320/20230626_143837.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZU0VBGEjLgUsSBMJDsBmy7JBdUVpeIBgMicGw4OrmlJsVeYVGok9qAfHd0iBhL9BJvRS7zbqj_qb_cyK2qfPw3R8gt6ZKlOUsGlYTrnGmnXOFSKuG1YPTmh_5xgxauXC4kSBa5KPJtMjO7NkKY1Sgx--P4SuqxCWzG4IS1TTLIHpsjAfwlRXujE-StIw/s1209/20230626_145709.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZU0VBGEjLgUsSBMJDsBmy7JBdUVpeIBgMicGw4OrmlJsVeYVGok9qAfHd0iBhL9BJvRS7zbqj_qb_cyK2qfPw3R8gt6ZKlOUsGlYTrnGmnXOFSKuG1YPTmh_5xgxauXC4kSBa5KPJtMjO7NkKY1Sgx--P4SuqxCWzG4IS1TTLIHpsjAfwlRXujE-StIw/s320/20230626_145709.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">scarabeo stercorario con relativa pallina</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdYgTc_c-oBq-UQu5bgkT7whNXnPicPTJlnvTxT6bDT8JiWsRfhmhAV9nb9Kn97rhmJ1A1EPLpV_8gyPS7y1ychupScNnhvT5t7ohDRfuZDNNw5D9C8o0z-xcq8HXs6cTJGs4yGoEYneOuqRZg0yn3Bto8PWEB4LNgu5rnCCtceJoeG3kkL-0-GQRjErg/s1209/20230626_150106.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdYgTc_c-oBq-UQu5bgkT7whNXnPicPTJlnvTxT6bDT8JiWsRfhmhAV9nb9Kn97rhmJ1A1EPLpV_8gyPS7y1ychupScNnhvT5t7ohDRfuZDNNw5D9C8o0z-xcq8HXs6cTJGs4yGoEYneOuqRZg0yn3Bto8PWEB4LNgu5rnCCtceJoeG3kkL-0-GQRjErg/s320/20230626_150106.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbWA6-WHCano9N1FDUUks_yZ8V0gb05DVmIxCiT9cO9xJhbjGhmw1g9HfofiId58N7Bl8VJONT3skLPiaaRnOxMHcf64lTp4Cqn4XCKJUT2dRdt3mLrdC4n-imfqSf88W79YQuUs_lfWJ7sWFRGyzlYK2WhDFkenwce0ubOkL_asKqJrhcVtslfDNgaI/s1209/20230626_150300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbWA6-WHCano9N1FDUUks_yZ8V0gb05DVmIxCiT9cO9xJhbjGhmw1g9HfofiId58N7Bl8VJONT3skLPiaaRnOxMHcf64lTp4Cqn4XCKJUT2dRdt3mLrdC4n-imfqSf88W79YQuUs_lfWJ7sWFRGyzlYK2WhDFkenwce0ubOkL_asKqJrhcVtslfDNgaI/s320/20230626_150300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2VBJXrlVT48aa5saf6c3IgpIy17iKkaOtJ7YTFYR76WMbaKAKXmeCVARvROkALtQwZBVPPMgdKfHBaXgr8O0T3kFQFBlZx2NZg-jzHYNNEB_Q3MMhSgC8DFAHBUlNm0vY_vOJGKfdIVfJVWREJbBfsO2yD9oUvv5t-pPH46znW6Z2_UQFHxIVdk-N96E/s1209/20230626_150729.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2VBJXrlVT48aa5saf6c3IgpIy17iKkaOtJ7YTFYR76WMbaKAKXmeCVARvROkALtQwZBVPPMgdKfHBaXgr8O0T3kFQFBlZx2NZg-jzHYNNEB_Q3MMhSgC8DFAHBUlNm0vY_vOJGKfdIVfJVWREJbBfsO2yD9oUvv5t-pPH46znW6Z2_UQFHxIVdk-N96E/s320/20230626_150729.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMUC1RRbYVGRPF6RXMczzFt0Fc0P1HfDxdUy_kvmeuUEcrFM5XnE9aRFQwgcUSYFUBDIvsw76N-xW1PWzZYOaxoSC4fKP3DgTvfhUVkDDcoUuxVcusZChYSHoPJu2DA9RyWK2ufroti_B11YWSCyiAG_PaMYi_WnlcxpHW8eOtvkXjfSuACnZvV9MM4ds/s1081/20230626_150738.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1081" data-original-width="811" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMUC1RRbYVGRPF6RXMczzFt0Fc0P1HfDxdUy_kvmeuUEcrFM5XnE9aRFQwgcUSYFUBDIvsw76N-xW1PWzZYOaxoSC4fKP3DgTvfhUVkDDcoUuxVcusZChYSHoPJu2DA9RyWK2ufroti_B11YWSCyiAG_PaMYi_WnlcxpHW8eOtvkXjfSuACnZvV9MM4ds/s320/20230626_150738.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In questo sito le rovine e la natura maestosa si completano a vicenda, formando uno spettacolare paesaggio naturale e culturale in perfetto equilibrio. La vegetazione rigogliosa, il mare, i templi, la fauna locale e le rovine sono un unicum dove nulla è di troppo. Si respira una pace antica, e il caldo ha mollato la presa: la brezza salmastra rinfresca l'aria e noi ci godiamo questa meraviglia. Il tempo si ferma per un attimo e tutto resta sospeso tra epoche e mondi.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipJZjgEo6zREg4hFJEpjHl1KwisabHD4OV5VWYePUpcgBfZbzWsfDrOgB9wM8Y9tezkFt4YpSxA9fqJJ9tk8dg4d49uke31hw971xgvpkMeW4azsb0ThNCHJxAXuzDOvcI4npONk9NaM-ujWA-7rLsEGUQrubPjft1VKd_3e-EQf4rKLRu6DygdnwRcn4/s1209/20230626_150802.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipJZjgEo6zREg4hFJEpjHl1KwisabHD4OV5VWYePUpcgBfZbzWsfDrOgB9wM8Y9tezkFt4YpSxA9fqJJ9tk8dg4d49uke31hw971xgvpkMeW4azsb0ThNCHJxAXuzDOvcI4npONk9NaM-ujWA-7rLsEGUQrubPjft1VKd_3e-EQf4rKLRu6DygdnwRcn4/s320/20230626_150802.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqaDRXLfJkl78SryuxSL7_f3nezhbKotuEl-PYBcAeN_TZ5SipAJh7fsmUm3ei5dce5syc3E4L8jiasvR5A0-yDjx6FNXEgDdUiuQhYqu_ZEOX6gKjUhn1CI4Zq2X-EeADpfafMxiYaXfJ_QdBEfICndYXNkgfWXP4exJquBHrBkv5N1oMq8DpkiVOlnY/s1209/20230626_150854.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqaDRXLfJkl78SryuxSL7_f3nezhbKotuEl-PYBcAeN_TZ5SipAJh7fsmUm3ei5dce5syc3E4L8jiasvR5A0-yDjx6FNXEgDdUiuQhYqu_ZEOX6gKjUhn1CI4Zq2X-EeADpfafMxiYaXfJ_QdBEfICndYXNkgfWXP4exJquBHrBkv5N1oMq8DpkiVOlnY/s320/20230626_150854.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-nOFL7DCQ_Ee9-5-KAl7vo_CI72G8c9PJB_4OaRhsk1eEnYezTaPSptE99oN0QsRZgfm3rPH3ommfsE6kPd0FlpwIlEVz51kofqtWcLcJi58uTDcxDjKbpxTtiDtCIFDET_ZncRImScuhjlmSagC73g1k5GdAmqydD5C1qVNO-PNYnNBRbrhkVT1tslw/s1209/20230626_151332.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-nOFL7DCQ_Ee9-5-KAl7vo_CI72G8c9PJB_4OaRhsk1eEnYezTaPSptE99oN0QsRZgfm3rPH3ommfsE6kPd0FlpwIlEVz51kofqtWcLcJi58uTDcxDjKbpxTtiDtCIFDET_ZncRImScuhjlmSagC73g1k5GdAmqydD5C1qVNO-PNYnNBRbrhkVT1tslw/s320/20230626_151332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOfFIAjD77qzQDcAodHeL5bhLvRhc6M_dMu1NM4AkRAry0uNTj7Q6Zjp8QF8oyZfgXiS2nQOx-plUgmeFSBETj9QVzpVpB8VITRwZUTjWkDXbggzrRRhBkZMc-_mOU04xGg_MqXhBdqK4OxQy8COhKWJQVhEAgp8T5F2t7OQAX4UuhpkW8ZflcnqLOwo/s1209/20230626_151358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOfFIAjD77qzQDcAodHeL5bhLvRhc6M_dMu1NM4AkRAry0uNTj7Q6Zjp8QF8oyZfgXiS2nQOx-plUgmeFSBETj9QVzpVpB8VITRwZUTjWkDXbggzrRRhBkZMc-_mOU04xGg_MqXhBdqK4OxQy8COhKWJQVhEAgp8T5F2t7OQAX4UuhpkW8ZflcnqLOwo/s320/20230626_151358.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQoXvglq22UfCrJzfXS8_VMjUZ3JUMfLjqF6RUFIPMgQOaIKTYM_F8reNihMGF-8h5VGfLZCLaCFqaDIuL9C09t2InkRRMcS3Nv5Zabc4n4ki2IN9ZPFtZItyWTH9vhWyTGnb_1V6QeQKzdx-jPCD4MHE5fTEjfeAcuJvkvNFomhRL27FL6pFbhcG3eg/s1209/20230626_152011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJQoXvglq22UfCrJzfXS8_VMjUZ3JUMfLjqF6RUFIPMgQOaIKTYM_F8reNihMGF-8h5VGfLZCLaCFqaDIuL9C09t2InkRRMcS3Nv5Zabc4n4ki2IN9ZPFtZItyWTH9vhWyTGnb_1V6QeQKzdx-jPCD4MHE5fTEjfeAcuJvkvNFomhRL27FL6pFbhcG3eg/s320/20230626_152011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Finita la visita al sito archeologico decidiamo di non tornare subito verso il centro città, ma di prendere la strada più lunga, decisamente più panoramica, che costeggia il mare. Camminiamo per diversi kilometri sulla spiaggia mentre un temporale incombe (ma abbiamo capito che qui durano poco e, per quanto violenti, portano solo altra caldazza). Prima di raggiungere le spiagge più turistiche passiamo per quelle utilizzate dai pescatori, dove ci sono barche in secca ed altre ormeggiate sul bagnasciuga. Il vento alza la sabbia e fa correre i nuvoloni, mentre le fregate restano sospese in volo come aquiloni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0S0ua_gxiheHpvPyYLx3ewSdld1Qd3lNiP9LLgZOFc5Pd6Q_fycR5J3fc4PcHko_MYfiXgdHZziLPKHDH92PUUonr5VEa2X-WdIy9oULNOsPfnwTCleFto9GHt5RJ2LizRzF3amYRYb-299KtROZa2f0j5G2zuTk3z0gp88ezWH5tVe5TdYzseEyrNQ/s1209/20230626_154459.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0S0ua_gxiheHpvPyYLx3ewSdld1Qd3lNiP9LLgZOFc5Pd6Q_fycR5J3fc4PcHko_MYfiXgdHZziLPKHDH92PUUonr5VEa2X-WdIy9oULNOsPfnwTCleFto9GHt5RJ2LizRzF3amYRYb-299KtROZa2f0j5G2zuTk3z0gp88ezWH5tVe5TdYzseEyrNQ/s320/20230626_154459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSM_z_gebrBubfSGPXog9OyrUtr54r2cat5L_V8FmtUTq5dOXpgQI_bIK23QSONFTUZGLohOBidpKtqefTTzPHQAkcLGZG3a1rwN5T1MMBXp7ML6IjxaLX2Jagyd3AwH_CqF4ImHk3l3FIx5CLrdN744ONIk4YX9SGJo2131Q7vkp-iJzWF95oRnAf0qQ/s1209/20230626_154520.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSM_z_gebrBubfSGPXog9OyrUtr54r2cat5L_V8FmtUTq5dOXpgQI_bIK23QSONFTUZGLohOBidpKtqefTTzPHQAkcLGZG3a1rwN5T1MMBXp7ML6IjxaLX2Jagyd3AwH_CqF4ImHk3l3FIx5CLrdN744ONIk4YX9SGJo2131Q7vkp-iJzWF95oRnAf0qQ/s320/20230626_154520.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIdxGkxeYI0d-lpxn1ZWnEqzuvZoR40gkZEgqnf3_QKuWNGgBQ3aS2_LrsvcqsGuTxa3scPHRXT3-f3LSdlsHurcFie55H2spDDi_z6kVdSI-Mm9JnA7Q7rvjKCykoHnzPHxR2jFz81rU48-8iCS0nUY2IhDChZF1sf1gAN5FjuQ-AeY2U8E4az9eQ6ks/s1209/20230626_154526.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIdxGkxeYI0d-lpxn1ZWnEqzuvZoR40gkZEgqnf3_QKuWNGgBQ3aS2_LrsvcqsGuTxa3scPHRXT3-f3LSdlsHurcFie55H2spDDi_z6kVdSI-Mm9JnA7Q7rvjKCykoHnzPHxR2jFz81rU48-8iCS0nUY2IhDChZF1sf1gAN5FjuQ-AeY2U8E4az9eQ6ks/s320/20230626_154526.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-o6l1Irl4lZNtry1gGRMCn70c_HZMsACc3EzWRivkeyEmUGIS18mRdUH6zKA5vf0vmH_XJ1CkSsSK-SVmOhFfMe4XI08X9gI5EyE3qT2kuGiFUzBiEnKmmLfVYPjqSI3xhBFpo47uQ6fPeymGUbh8SSttTVPo-LEQwdzwvC0NquetheyQaP19MrYaoS0/s1209/20230626_154538.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-o6l1Irl4lZNtry1gGRMCn70c_HZMsACc3EzWRivkeyEmUGIS18mRdUH6zKA5vf0vmH_XJ1CkSsSK-SVmOhFfMe4XI08X9gI5EyE3qT2kuGiFUzBiEnKmmLfVYPjqSI3xhBFpo47uQ6fPeymGUbh8SSttTVPo-LEQwdzwvC0NquetheyQaP19MrYaoS0/s320/20230626_154538.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBICveTjmyNagVJF1rHo7TzWcH4pthu-m3Q15t-W4_O9SQ_BRn-xgV4aVjKHX9i3fA1Nz9al6dJsGDfaKxivgEDsYy4Hgbxsq8hKhzlFo1gurW6wJJiEB0xTYx6kIwm474H7mprZyP9CTZAkXJeqpk4QxItA6rmKEoG3dUYnvo2ExqldgNGIlo_8V1C5Y/s1209/20230626_154635.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBICveTjmyNagVJF1rHo7TzWcH4pthu-m3Q15t-W4_O9SQ_BRn-xgV4aVjKHX9i3fA1Nz9al6dJsGDfaKxivgEDsYy4Hgbxsq8hKhzlFo1gurW6wJJiEB0xTYx6kIwm474H7mprZyP9CTZAkXJeqpk4QxItA6rmKEoG3dUYnvo2ExqldgNGIlo_8V1C5Y/s320/20230626_154635.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGisMmVxiQwwQyxqX9Gn0AtNlrY18Ptnh73BaxCtIAIRPLFacvjhOxfaC3C9LOsS95a6_hqFVLZLlaLU8rByu_FluBzNU7asOoHzzJ84KvQqQkFRwTQrRULCXllxG6k5u4PeGrpVIMBVjJht7NNAKaI2aJ3VOgss5ia2S6V3TVvo4AighIWQ5kFsK894/s1173/20230626_154646.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="880" data-original-width="1173" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGisMmVxiQwwQyxqX9Gn0AtNlrY18Ptnh73BaxCtIAIRPLFacvjhOxfaC3C9LOsS95a6_hqFVLZLlaLU8rByu_FluBzNU7asOoHzzJ84KvQqQkFRwTQrRULCXllxG6k5u4PeGrpVIMBVjJht7NNAKaI2aJ3VOgss5ia2S6V3TVvo4AighIWQ5kFsK894/s320/20230626_154646.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Oltre ad assistere al passaggio di stormi di pellicani che volano bassi sul pelo dell'acqua, ci imbattiamo in numerosi nidi di tartaruga marina, tutti protetti e ben segnalati in modo da evitare che i passanti li calpestino. Meraviglia delle meraviglie, vediamo anche una tartarughina muovere le sue prime pinnate nel tentativo di uscire dalla buca nella sabbia dove si è schiuso l'uovo. Non le stiamo addosso, però, così da non disturbare il suo arduo cammino verso il mare.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Os3PGAXfLUp13-5zcXGgqtG29MjOFvJXWT3UO5SyN_WSxSezCsKKRpPUplTVpKa-sfBPQ8G7dTGzf5PvIK2zyL0sVljV3FRjKIgvwA30maaqnt9PKT4sMD20PpAgWSdeMO7J1Y-rVLycs7N3yyZH4TcN-IhglArOfbadmNbTMFXCKbtl4l3P5B0q_Wk/s1209/20230626_155357.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Os3PGAXfLUp13-5zcXGgqtG29MjOFvJXWT3UO5SyN_WSxSezCsKKRpPUplTVpKa-sfBPQ8G7dTGzf5PvIK2zyL0sVljV3FRjKIgvwA30maaqnt9PKT4sMD20PpAgWSdeMO7J1Y-rVLycs7N3yyZH4TcN-IhglArOfbadmNbTMFXCKbtl4l3P5B0q_Wk/s320/20230626_155357.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMemffgigR5Ly4ym5-OSPx1OYZWbDwSx0vs0WxZYdQb9a1ST0V3LLCt89mo54YrAP4kPgGsIx97y5zt_okuV4Jzp_hrilgWtSuBb3Y9wPYZEMdtas2YrslPT9J5FfdcMTNi4ZlBTtMY-7lQzYHn6fXm8W6RpaqvlnxWF96Z2M8_iAMrBdjku8QlNRUj0/s1209/20230626_155707.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMemffgigR5Ly4ym5-OSPx1OYZWbDwSx0vs0WxZYdQb9a1ST0V3LLCt89mo54YrAP4kPgGsIx97y5zt_okuV4Jzp_hrilgWtSuBb3Y9wPYZEMdtas2YrslPT9J5FfdcMTNi4ZlBTtMY-7lQzYHn6fXm8W6RpaqvlnxWF96Z2M8_iAMrBdjku8QlNRUj0/s320/20230626_155707.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9rmj1I-HNtDLuKBWOb97uJ0M5tPFW9VwaCzcyPWC_VTX-E1nOb17hTDRhfnkHkCj2dXHXS9XPKdR35qOVAZC1ZGv8pRzMtAZcU1uRKAIAwS1c34KzH3eiL6uhoN-bPYGuTWOW4-fLXO40CT2bX9xCxvJAYy2hB-Q_yp86B-2LfrNJ363rhfqScsGP5hM/s1209/20230626_160819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9rmj1I-HNtDLuKBWOb97uJ0M5tPFW9VwaCzcyPWC_VTX-E1nOb17hTDRhfnkHkCj2dXHXS9XPKdR35qOVAZC1ZGv8pRzMtAZcU1uRKAIAwS1c34KzH3eiL6uhoN-bPYGuTWOW4-fLXO40CT2bX9xCxvJAYy2hB-Q_yp86B-2LfrNJ363rhfqScsGP5hM/s320/20230626_160819.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqK0d9gTsu05tujScVy6MggVgH-uN6clJwuC-geHTjwXOePFTi2dFYa62793gBGsODLlAhQlKbmBI5Okht_YfqLKp7SvdbCsGnd69Pfuer-iEv2-q6ttFSoqVnH8HcadEJnPbC-kg6Krku-l9KH_BD7V4TUCfC5tivIykjFQAEP1MUKCk8hBhOQsnl1tM/s1209/20230626_162104.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqK0d9gTsu05tujScVy6MggVgH-uN6clJwuC-geHTjwXOePFTi2dFYa62793gBGsODLlAhQlKbmBI5Okht_YfqLKp7SvdbCsGnd69Pfuer-iEv2-q6ttFSoqVnH8HcadEJnPbC-kg6Krku-l9KH_BD7V4TUCfC5tivIykjFQAEP1MUKCk8hBhOQsnl1tM/s320/20230626_162104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJq2oTrYA7C7oGO0ssYaVSzu5OfDp6-tiCJKem96eraf7iLW_yFlo49vNNU14xsnoMEwmPyoMWQbbcWJ2mnN5OtX4k66Y-A403KkXp2RqPIViCOUHlfTTcv9UJn8i5_dKH7rid_2zV7Rbm_b3vzQbxZUMBFH-OQiYYyC13E7P5PyE_UvtAVyPtxbE8-5I/s1209/20230626_162349.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJq2oTrYA7C7oGO0ssYaVSzu5OfDp6-tiCJKem96eraf7iLW_yFlo49vNNU14xsnoMEwmPyoMWQbbcWJ2mnN5OtX4k66Y-A403KkXp2RqPIViCOUHlfTTcv9UJn8i5_dKH7rid_2zV7Rbm_b3vzQbxZUMBFH-OQiYYyC13E7P5PyE_UvtAVyPtxbE8-5I/s320/20230626_162349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9BFlNFnnyfipIqb2MRuJUfIJ3zyMejfwqGTHgCOeVl-iwR7oWabp7oDl9txown24zyJYb4IaKCa1VRho5WJa0EXeHpDHHwxjUMIyMb_P1vQ3P8yUiA8-fK7yBUp0yS5cK4-cw0zLoURtlHmm4XFzjICu1gEuINqX7QdVHAoa9cUNeNM79osSxyhz3_lE/s1092/20230626_162506.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="819" data-original-width="1092" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9BFlNFnnyfipIqb2MRuJUfIJ3zyMejfwqGTHgCOeVl-iwR7oWabp7oDl9txown24zyJYb4IaKCa1VRho5WJa0EXeHpDHHwxjUMIyMb_P1vQ3P8yUiA8-fK7yBUp0yS5cK4-cw0zLoURtlHmm4XFzjICu1gEuINqX7QdVHAoa9cUNeNM79osSxyhz3_lE/s320/20230626_162506.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqt_H2jsLaEux51YfAUaRlAKGzpoi0HKTKAnuL9knqsLbdKrih0wgIHd9xhxWP-jKBWckRdXjzRov4r2kqxhXcS2vassIq8mBAyxy9x9hKZKNjWTuKzeGQgKJf6ZPC8_jT4oEf290uNdvHzAKKEcMbScgfvA8I33RruP93N2A-pM6txpFTE0eNyqs34vg/s1209/20230626_162955.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqt_H2jsLaEux51YfAUaRlAKGzpoi0HKTKAnuL9knqsLbdKrih0wgIHd9xhxWP-jKBWckRdXjzRov4r2kqxhXcS2vassIq8mBAyxy9x9hKZKNjWTuKzeGQgKJf6ZPC8_jT4oEf290uNdvHzAKKEcMbScgfvA8I33RruP93N2A-pM6txpFTE0eNyqs34vg/s320/20230626_162955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo essere passati in calette da cartolina, che sembrano risuonare delle risate grosse di pirati e avventurieri gonfi di avidità e rum, torniamo in centro con un colectivo. Gigi si concede una banana split in gelateria e io scopro due cose molto importanti. La prima: meglio se evito la panna, perchè mi provoca un immediato contorcimento di budella. La seconda: i bagni, qui a Tulum, si intasano nel peggiore dei modi che potete immaginare e con una facilità estrema. Di questo avremo, ahimè, conferma, anche in albergo, qualche ora più tardi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhuGKoYB6HyzO7Rl5rSz8MduVY9i9W2TS8r25nfnR_XbxBHIBhyTzKMeXnIk4jaS5_LEQBX59YGtURlCj4Ki7m6DaG-ULycsEkBeWpuJqqKjdQKhhMjFyGQg2cQFB86OLDdDc0oxHnHCiQq8Ngg9GLUxt-c-60rjN5d15jH-3QlDKA6wgBheTFFc1Dws/s1209/20230626_172650.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhuGKoYB6HyzO7Rl5rSz8MduVY9i9W2TS8r25nfnR_XbxBHIBhyTzKMeXnIk4jaS5_LEQBX59YGtURlCj4Ki7m6DaG-ULycsEkBeWpuJqqKjdQKhhMjFyGQg2cQFB86OLDdDc0oxHnHCiQq8Ngg9GLUxt-c-60rjN5d15jH-3QlDKA6wgBheTFFc1Dws/s320/20230626_172650.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di tornare in stanza, facciamo un giro per la città, che ha conservato una marcata vena hippie ma sembra comunque molto vivibile. Ci sono parchi pubblici curati, campi di calcio e da basket popolati da ragazzini, giardinetti con mamme e bimbi e anche un numero piuttosto ampio di senzatetto e cani randagi che, però, non sembrano passarsela neanche malissimo. Fa caldo tutto l'anno, c'è il mare, i turisti abbondano e si riesce a sopravvivere con poco.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR0e9gJiKvnhx1MCwykbYPLQOqb6u4Ik6Ox5lxOV76533zuBeHYsr4WZ1TQw2QbrkH71ruEvHOBHzNO840ljY_fzbFrveO5WuAotVtXCtfcK_nQ1xyu28jFInauBBt_IaY_w-hwzv_GVy_ty8-gnECkZxMw5u9FIzKEF9MPNmtvYpfz8YEePOhgCXZpPg/s1209/20230626_174733.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR0e9gJiKvnhx1MCwykbYPLQOqb6u4Ik6Ox5lxOV76533zuBeHYsr4WZ1TQw2QbrkH71ruEvHOBHzNO840ljY_fzbFrveO5WuAotVtXCtfcK_nQ1xyu28jFInauBBt_IaY_w-hwzv_GVy_ty8-gnECkZxMw5u9FIzKEF9MPNmtvYpfz8YEePOhgCXZpPg/s320/20230626_174733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsN4r3Jcq0ETeDxcIIlnRnuyzFFZ01pgbfew7Ke7I9QD2pqyx0pjazGwNVzTOb9LxKaJMORxhFzNW3MqBBpTAUVmggrBSLWpR3UbbMWxFWMu74vCshwpGtVzAaU0LBFdie2ClFh7QjCZRFBfyjzcsPPcWncEk1XeHk_omnC31jhqnsEK3Ga5ZOxO9YGE/s1209/20230626_174927.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsN4r3Jcq0ETeDxcIIlnRnuyzFFZ01pgbfew7Ke7I9QD2pqyx0pjazGwNVzTOb9LxKaJMORxhFzNW3MqBBpTAUVmggrBSLWpR3UbbMWxFWMu74vCshwpGtVzAaU0LBFdie2ClFh7QjCZRFBfyjzcsPPcWncEk1XeHk_omnC31jhqnsEK3Ga5ZOxO9YGE/s320/20230626_174927.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzVLCxMPA2fYn4U66MpdegmwLWFUCQcEMUHy72qcU4Q-Fs6FW1BUT6y5mfkuEjgT6AkD3QBaxyjh2hU2hQC74GI3HdXvieQ98fTfc3ECQbghEQDzswXKLqF2a9T3HapFWegHEbEr3ZisuNDmMK3VwcbWJ_THonHHNWvXe4dkTVL3xCY44Wz0_JwnuTpzw/s1209/20230626_174932.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzVLCxMPA2fYn4U66MpdegmwLWFUCQcEMUHy72qcU4Q-Fs6FW1BUT6y5mfkuEjgT6AkD3QBaxyjh2hU2hQC74GI3HdXvieQ98fTfc3ECQbghEQDzswXKLqF2a9T3HapFWegHEbEr3ZisuNDmMK3VwcbWJ_THonHHNWvXe4dkTVL3xCY44Wz0_JwnuTpzw/s320/20230626_174932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4eoQ6LFafTsxRM-_yWF58QpDyWAWsFId_hqO1n1DtJtv1ijEnYBC-hANgmzOPP5cWf4q2HgyKTbWC52zH9delUYBuLEVLvOH6hLFlqJMfBq0zLEsP87-af0knrdJ0i-cnJcCYqv-WpOrqPawgfWPehJppPMWa42RZ_hAuhFqFV04Wu5etGOjr6DSCPjY/s1209/20230626_180143.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4eoQ6LFafTsxRM-_yWF58QpDyWAWsFId_hqO1n1DtJtv1ijEnYBC-hANgmzOPP5cWf4q2HgyKTbWC52zH9delUYBuLEVLvOH6hLFlqJMfBq0zLEsP87-af0knrdJ0i-cnJcCYqv-WpOrqPawgfWPehJppPMWa42RZ_hAuhFqFV04Wu5etGOjr6DSCPjY/s320/20230626_180143.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOwCkU24NzRrhT65I1glMAOKvXEKNkkyqu9Pl8ev1KtloLndC1KNSvCglIf37naYy5PECSQ9QClqrbqLhi9qZFl8TSFc2O1dojKRp0Vlc2BYZfbalHfNdQwN10mnhlD_2mG_o4TaferNuiDoTQ1CZiSmJgHsyy2IbTd697h-hrauq2Y9EtzObSj-JCIWM/s1209/20230626_180736.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOwCkU24NzRrhT65I1glMAOKvXEKNkkyqu9Pl8ev1KtloLndC1KNSvCglIf37naYy5PECSQ9QClqrbqLhi9qZFl8TSFc2O1dojKRp0Vlc2BYZfbalHfNdQwN10mnhlD_2mG_o4TaferNuiDoTQ1CZiSmJgHsyy2IbTd697h-hrauq2Y9EtzObSj-JCIWM/s320/20230626_180736.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIOObpiKYwCN0eZKKYKn-TMRcH5XAXmzGd5Vs1AkJCroQO3abGR1Z2q4MkbdHHiN1yf0oHQZGTXObemlI9dm3QnBDRykClxYqNvjGG6JtX2FEBBkpKtcw-WQ3Cp9YIgvUYjAcHxAGGPl0HMRMxptYt5fjj-ikNzPXPvDipqxFVp8em_vbUAFym46qrAM0/s1209/20230626_181931.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIOObpiKYwCN0eZKKYKn-TMRcH5XAXmzGd5Vs1AkJCroQO3abGR1Z2q4MkbdHHiN1yf0oHQZGTXObemlI9dm3QnBDRykClxYqNvjGG6JtX2FEBBkpKtcw-WQ3Cp9YIgvUYjAcHxAGGPl0HMRMxptYt5fjj-ikNzPXPvDipqxFVp8em_vbUAFym46qrAM0/s320/20230626_181931.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Prima di rientrare per una doccia necessaria, facciamo shopping: Gigi compra una t-shirt sportiva in un negozio dell'usato; poi veniamo fagocitato da uno store di vestiti che si chiama Milano (pheega!) e compriamo mutande, calzini e una maglietta per me, il tutto per un totale di 5 euro. Usciamo poi la sera tardi a cenare in un locale losco il giusto, dove, però, si mangiano fajitas, tacos e nachos di bontà divina, il tutto con musica sparata a palla come usa qui. Piove a scroscioni per tutta la sera e tutta la notte. La gente si ubriaca, schiamazza, balla. Il caldo è devastante. Si sta bene, in questo angolino di universo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_KV6pzDLnExBnOgpzE5PhRwaII-sRGsRZXDhyyBOTKp5UCGftMrfY7vm7h0F1gio6C6NM9jsyfK1X8fDj3bv54i3UddWA_Bg0KkHVBDD33P5DQJFsNwroT88cWqITJ8yOGcLoWm4s30DjURM6Lcls47mGoXYmv9k1vZSpFlYjEcWSqBmE3EZTGUiuwiE/s1600/IMG-20230626-WA0015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_KV6pzDLnExBnOgpzE5PhRwaII-sRGsRZXDhyyBOTKp5UCGftMrfY7vm7h0F1gio6C6NM9jsyfK1X8fDj3bv54i3UddWA_Bg0KkHVBDD33P5DQJFsNwroT88cWqITJ8yOGcLoWm4s30DjURM6Lcls47mGoXYmv9k1vZSpFlYjEcWSqBmE3EZTGUiuwiE/s320/IMG-20230626-WA0015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9A6PZXXJwlYrZrqa9Woi22xAAGnamkEboBul60bZXQ-VAxJP1NvIy7A9yMcy3j-mcLXXO-NUyAe4jw8s1eU56jT7-eTEyYTceFTY-Jc0KJUN7KtbWGVfab_WH5EkkjBs0UTeJ-nQrP_pTZ-dK0XgL3KDiDxsBUDWgyk7EhLY6hTW_fawCcJ644dF7k7k/s1600/IMG-20230626-WA0016.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9A6PZXXJwlYrZrqa9Woi22xAAGnamkEboBul60bZXQ-VAxJP1NvIy7A9yMcy3j-mcLXXO-NUyAe4jw8s1eU56jT7-eTEyYTceFTY-Jc0KJUN7KtbWGVfab_WH5EkkjBs0UTeJ-nQrP_pTZ-dK0XgL3KDiDxsBUDWgyk7EhLY6hTW_fawCcJ644dF7k7k/s320/IMG-20230626-WA0016.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">tra i tanti murales, spiccano per tamarraggine quelli con vernice fosforescente</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">27/6</div><div style="text-align: left;">Tulum - Riserva di Sian Ka'an - Tulum - Cancun</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A quanto pare è vero: oggi, stasera, quasi notte, le nostre bici arriveranno da Madrid. Siamo felicemente trepidanti, ma vogliamo anche far buon uso di questa giornata. Quindi abbiamo deciso di andare a visitare la riserva naturale, nonchè patrimonio Unesco, di Sian Ka'an. Ci sono molti tour guidati che portano lì decine di turisti al giorno, ma noi ci andiamo con i mezzi, in autonomia, chiedendo solo un passaggio in barca per visitare le lagune e i canali maya. Oltretutto così si alimenta l'economia delle comunità maya che vivono da quelle parti. Poi con la mia nuova maglia mexicanmaranza posso affrontare la jungla (letto iungla) in scioltezza.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3wbv55iyToE7rqVsx0q8yRuDdX-D018Pg9a24pbHP1aYYZQiPMa-LNYVaXdOarkXidkUOqdvqYc-Cg4VixtV-x9LefIEuHv23AnZKONvDXYQ91aZD6vlG8G3E8BByYFGLntUpeFgvjTHZ13mDTYSWhYitsDdgeLvUix_OFdlfclIbix4gEfvg3c0UiU/s1210/20230627_081621.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="558" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3wbv55iyToE7rqVsx0q8yRuDdX-D018Pg9a24pbHP1aYYZQiPMa-LNYVaXdOarkXidkUOqdvqYc-Cg4VixtV-x9LefIEuHv23AnZKONvDXYQ91aZD6vlG8G3E8BByYFGLntUpeFgvjTHZ13mDTYSWhYitsDdgeLvUix_OFdlfclIbix4gEfvg3c0UiU/s320/20230627_081621.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUMe27gSECSrthZiRSmiFF_Iu4M3vpS2qX6TtFvT1qI5GtippgzPDXGJ1M8qLRtyMyo0lT-DJfXHk7ahRFZ3U_3DrMR5tvskLl6OoIPNoFqK2kEbPYuPxHOtuHbODkwXGgb9mwLLoz-ORCMG9XpBuoe-VeUh-RCXr4gJlzoXAlB2A6r6SZlGGM6TWav7o/s1209/20230627_083840.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUMe27gSECSrthZiRSmiFF_Iu4M3vpS2qX6TtFvT1qI5GtippgzPDXGJ1M8qLRtyMyo0lT-DJfXHk7ahRFZ3U_3DrMR5tvskLl6OoIPNoFqK2kEbPYuPxHOtuHbODkwXGgb9mwLLoz-ORCMG9XpBuoe-VeUh-RCXr4gJlzoXAlB2A6r6SZlGGM6TWav7o/s320/20230627_083840.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Facciamo colazione in hotel e assistiamo allo spettacolo del piovasco tropicale con sole che illumina le foglie bagnate e le gocce come fossero oro liquido. Poi andiamo alla stazione dei bus e acquistiamo un biglietto per Chunyaxché, che è un pueblo minuscolo a pochi minuti a piedi da Muyil. Qui si trovano delle rovine maya e l'accesso alla riserva. Il biglietto del bus costa 1.5 euro, contro i 150 che fan pagare i tour privati. Certo, il posto a sedere non è garantito e gli orari sono pura opinione, ma noi non abbiamo alcuna fretta. Intanto Gigi cerca di contattare la sua banca perchè sta avendo problemi con le carte e non riesce a pagare nè a ritirare contante. Montezuma colpisce ancora?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Quando arriva il bus ci imbarchiamo e siamo i soli turisti. La cosa mi fa solo piacere. In breve siamo su una strada che buca la vegetazione fitta, giungla di qua e giungla di là. I telefoni perdono la connessione. Un soffio e siamo arrivati. Ci accoglie un centro visitatori gestito dalla locale comunità maya, che si occupa di mantenere i siti archeologici (23) e la riserva della biosfera circostante, che si estende per la bellezza di 5280 kilometri quadrati e va dall'oceano con la sua barriera corallina alla giungla, dalle lagune d'acqua dolce ai canali (naturali e artificiali, costruiti dai maya) che le collegano.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Il primo impatto è subito magico. Le rovine sono immerse nella vegetazione. Ci sono addetti che lavorano al restauro di alcuni edifici, mentre altri, per lo più templi e un castillo, si ergono negli angusti spazi liberi tra tronchi e radici. A terra, un tappeto di petali rossi. Il caldo è devastante, camminare faticosissimo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhCBwsvp4zrQeB7wWWY-iXSJgm6FGkFdze8VtZmMzrHZ2vYGh4LW5J1xGVA8KIVDx9gMxqHC5a7keHu0c8rv05lytCZF_Gx1WaGIZ47JTndvmu0sjyMZUbJKHJcWtuh667-sDyXuvFJ44q0nCTblh__CdagMh1OZNPscaTjIdEGRmMquQyYHa9gbYYdYU/s1209/20230627_113718.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhCBwsvp4zrQeB7wWWY-iXSJgm6FGkFdze8VtZmMzrHZ2vYGh4LW5J1xGVA8KIVDx9gMxqHC5a7keHu0c8rv05lytCZF_Gx1WaGIZ47JTndvmu0sjyMZUbJKHJcWtuh667-sDyXuvFJ44q0nCTblh__CdagMh1OZNPscaTjIdEGRmMquQyYHa9gbYYdYU/s320/20230627_113718.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxSSN7C6UsJFPCzNhZbUL6I-8sNVlmq4lGdx_den1YXZivMl43XLUc-ClmQI7Hnrny7UGRezi4eKnIrI4LDmeq9a8TdK2_IceLqxO6uO1_J8HeizS6qp89AGvnp72DedAkyU2vVMiHUhZejFYmeTdjEqSsYspVik3xQrPgtwnmf6ytIKpf7Ow6YQgQGRk/s1209/20230627_113836.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWae6daXxIH93fZG5H8AS_t6qi2uSZlrPLo89hNy_hHDVAk2SCn_k4CNWtHeaBvO93X7xAxDE7v0oQKe-JShBoxs_fU7shstGt8W0awPEI2ysOIDTfnidJ8LA2y0SwaOASLp323vp5xxDUGR7nkTF85l0WAR4fA3OD8v7WonS4yLGvZrXAd8iHeeP3-Xw/s1209/20230627_120111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWae6daXxIH93fZG5H8AS_t6qi2uSZlrPLo89hNy_hHDVAk2SCn_k4CNWtHeaBvO93X7xAxDE7v0oQKe-JShBoxs_fU7shstGt8W0awPEI2ysOIDTfnidJ8LA2y0SwaOASLp323vp5xxDUGR7nkTF85l0WAR4fA3OD8v7WonS4yLGvZrXAd8iHeeP3-Xw/s320/20230627_120111.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver visitato le rovine, che risalgono a periodi diversi e stratificati, dal 350 a.C. al 1500 d.C., ed erano fulcro di città che commerciavano con altre popolazioni caraibiche, imbocchiamo un sentiero che conduce all'ingresso della riserva naturale. Vediamo un'infinità di farfalle enormi e coloratissime, uccelli di ogni forma e piumaggio, qualche ombra di scimmia ragno e... Il primo coati! Purtroppo si rifugia nel fogliame pima che io possa fotografarlo. Ma se tutto va bene ne vedremo altri, nei prossimi giorni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCMFGPuk8fYmiqky8FWcrYKBMCTiLnqe_YAGkXxFJAy5ZAz7BHBNuYs-vfLGgMCNcmdZLzFG7uxWshp8JI_2QVl34ANcoF3qEYNnHPlZ_6n6fM_D5gDTdqYzuruic9USCHTHLHDxBlD3YeCVyq_G_wcN0k3KPA3sKcvgTXuEA7Bjvy9KcvHj4UGd9ocI4/s979/20230627_120214.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCMFGPuk8fYmiqky8FWcrYKBMCTiLnqe_YAGkXxFJAy5ZAz7BHBNuYs-vfLGgMCNcmdZLzFG7uxWshp8JI_2QVl34ANcoF3qEYNnHPlZ_6n6fM_D5gDTdqYzuruic9USCHTHLHDxBlD3YeCVyq_G_wcN0k3KPA3sKcvgTXuEA7Bjvy9KcvHj4UGd9ocI4/s320/20230627_120214.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8hy9M1OWbITgvFwnrXVF2iVNBnWWxFf-E6oYMoWQkdPOhu9cSkd06Ftv3rLYDktMs_j14hMJ7Z1B0ShPwe0IXFAq6YtP4gak1BDvd9WtrM0EJxYjTJxkb794SnbsQ1eh7oUOzyMpOnGrNV9ZuBCF7erJHHpu_AwEO-mtKqvFE3TUyuCyayPJfTJvVFM/s1209/20230627_120359.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8hy9M1OWbITgvFwnrXVF2iVNBnWWxFf-E6oYMoWQkdPOhu9cSkd06Ftv3rLYDktMs_j14hMJ7Z1B0ShPwe0IXFAq6YtP4gak1BDvd9WtrM0EJxYjTJxkb794SnbsQ1eh7oUOzyMpOnGrNV9ZuBCF7erJHHpu_AwEO-mtKqvFE3TUyuCyayPJfTJvVFM/s320/20230627_120359.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHi25Xn3jQWzBCdNh3SyXXUosXUc2gC8xuNHGjjRt3T7JYRYiXDNjIOrnc7vTfuYv2QiU2em86Xp5MPaRNAJJOr2cCwyhC1pOZFDPfeZqMXHS02vQvp_I-nQLWMbhg0Q3AfQ8w_X_MbIu1s1A0PRnDzm_Dol_FvmXcD1qOCfz5v6PxeurLSTmvqnxLvg/s1209/20230627_120454.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHi25Xn3jQWzBCdNh3SyXXUosXUc2gC8xuNHGjjRt3T7JYRYiXDNjIOrnc7vTfuYv2QiU2em86Xp5MPaRNAJJOr2cCwyhC1pOZFDPfeZqMXHS02vQvp_I-nQLWMbhg0Q3AfQ8w_X_MbIu1s1A0PRnDzm_Dol_FvmXcD1qOCfz5v6PxeurLSTmvqnxLvg/s320/20230627_120454.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Una volta entrati nella riserva, procediamo su una passerella di legno che passa sopra paludi, acquitrini e un intrico incredibile di radici e foglie. Stiamo con le orecchie tese: si vede poco, ma ogni fruscio può essere un incontro incredibile con la ricchissima fauna selvatica.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVmR3Zi4c7uDKtN9S3MWzvd5J2F7pTyR65Xj5afH8zNxuAR_QugHUyk9UlNLtFpxoy0iLDxFjn22dFiDt-xHQOTTSVA8NqK7kb-Z_D_kTzWRpMHf9gqbUGZLzNKPG6xbNaN12S0lIfiCvNtgL2ZCD5tqRgOV2XQNBQ1bb1-qYhaJIZ9NDzHq0u_U-6Kg/s1209/20230627_120601.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjVmR3Zi4c7uDKtN9S3MWzvd5J2F7pTyR65Xj5afH8zNxuAR_QugHUyk9UlNLtFpxoy0iLDxFjn22dFiDt-xHQOTTSVA8NqK7kb-Z_D_kTzWRpMHf9gqbUGZLzNKPG6xbNaN12S0lIfiCvNtgL2ZCD5tqRgOV2XQNBQ1bb1-qYhaJIZ9NDzHq0u_U-6Kg/s320/20230627_120601.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZh8AucPM_DovWfMrwXJ_S98azCUaPG5ja5T9Z8eJoDtefUazC5Yee2PAUbk1M1XVkYeQvmzwXbTwBjt1yT8wvr-ecPeBSU3IzCY8sAYrl_SlZBeY4FaRqhBGRN04GlxbMXxGgD-81Nty8VSfPQT8AEKIXKKUxbqns3aK_gOfTXHU1qwBStsDWSwVOHE/s1209/20230627_120708.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZh8AucPM_DovWfMrwXJ_S98azCUaPG5ja5T9Z8eJoDtefUazC5Yee2PAUbk1M1XVkYeQvmzwXbTwBjt1yT8wvr-ecPeBSU3IzCY8sAYrl_SlZBeY4FaRqhBGRN04GlxbMXxGgD-81Nty8VSfPQT8AEKIXKKUxbqns3aK_gOfTXHU1qwBStsDWSwVOHE/s320/20230627_120708.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj80Fz7Q3VkDmf9YA3Ai91oavFJko97gsNye9AOlpywkn6V2_IZtOfAyiUR1PVBkChy7QVVrdpUh8hOEm2laBOfu7vHpHDg9yyW0XEZMG043vY9Fn-6wjgHCsyvrRsbgJtqW6PgJfslvOEbeTol8YZ8_-5h9l_QRpONyZ-_YwfyhdwXGh2S64O0VIHJa8Y/s979/20230627_120842.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj80Fz7Q3VkDmf9YA3Ai91oavFJko97gsNye9AOlpywkn6V2_IZtOfAyiUR1PVBkChy7QVVrdpUh8hOEm2laBOfu7vHpHDg9yyW0XEZMG043vY9Fn-6wjgHCsyvrRsbgJtqW6PgJfslvOEbeTol8YZ8_-5h9l_QRpONyZ-_YwfyhdwXGh2S64O0VIHJa8Y/s320/20230627_120842.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A circa metà del sentiero si erge una torre panoramica in legno, composta da diversi ordini di rampe di scale verticali, poco meno che a pioli, inframezzate da terrazzini. Gigi sale tranquillo, mentre io devo vincere tutti i freni che la paura dell'altezza mi pone. Piano piano, un piede per volta, una mano per volta, arrivo anch'io alla sommità, e la meraviglia si spalanca davanti a noi. Si vede la giungla, una coperta verde a perdita d'occhio, in ogni direzione. Solo la laguna, un occhio turchese spalancato al cielo, interrompe questa distesa di linfa densa e spessa. Respiriamo a pieni polmoni. Questa è Sian Ka'an, la "Porta del cielo".</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKcVdDdUY1on_9QUuNulxCGw65UfGbqBSSzK0pU4USWP38vbV126zoivN0nky4LUDdf_ljx54gvA4X5YBsNmhZJeiZVNLXqpt3C3BlUeI5M7P9i2DzLO00eS9cj9EdV9ABoZjuhVC_grHlHyWWB7bbCjgPozB3AWoxh9Q5fcX2b8jXAqZX0pn9-zSo71k/s1209/20230627_121417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKcVdDdUY1on_9QUuNulxCGw65UfGbqBSSzK0pU4USWP38vbV126zoivN0nky4LUDdf_ljx54gvA4X5YBsNmhZJeiZVNLXqpt3C3BlUeI5M7P9i2DzLO00eS9cj9EdV9ABoZjuhVC_grHlHyWWB7bbCjgPozB3AWoxh9Q5fcX2b8jXAqZX0pn9-zSo71k/s320/20230627_121417.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8iMKTCI8YlslUO1sHXYou72KLlXyIs3qlHScKxf60mtSm6W8pg1VndBEO34ri7gJeur9sx8CzNvSvHlqtgzHQbRzx2BvDYC5pzCvXLqW29u7u0FWAyWcQLOTp5evBYfRZXdW1Jj0tuVaQJMUFZHixQUWpDB8DtDywbtmwj0HW5_9Z2YJ7U1GXSDtUp6c/s1209/20230627_121828.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8iMKTCI8YlslUO1sHXYou72KLlXyIs3qlHScKxf60mtSm6W8pg1VndBEO34ri7gJeur9sx8CzNvSvHlqtgzHQbRzx2BvDYC5pzCvXLqW29u7u0FWAyWcQLOTp5evBYfRZXdW1Jj0tuVaQJMUFZHixQUWpDB8DtDywbtmwj0HW5_9Z2YJ7U1GXSDtUp6c/s320/20230627_121828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW9QzTkuqdBNQpTRcNaolf-jeAXQnoWA0BBYdGQOROQ3sTG-M3paqhSO3uLf-6h2fZtOlMrjueHXRYOyl2sTSjj0DHudnlKr-8BKKH8-bqW10Wh61FmpFb8vYbNtsMunEOXp250mG3P2ER_t22IpH6cYfWn4duNYvC9fvGkYeDCINRpchMzwx1ErfCxQ/s1209/20230627_121833.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDW9QzTkuqdBNQpTRcNaolf-jeAXQnoWA0BBYdGQOROQ3sTG-M3paqhSO3uLf-6h2fZtOlMrjueHXRYOyl2sTSjj0DHudnlKr-8BKKH8-bqW10Wh61FmpFb8vYbNtsMunEOXp250mG3P2ER_t22IpH6cYfWn4duNYvC9fvGkYeDCINRpchMzwx1ErfCxQ/s320/20230627_121833.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0u5WT-_IGlNm-u5AKUphCybYd0RiNK8yDVcl7ipc87QLjwTiMlJk4cve55TNH9jtypYk33VetIGFy3l_xvDdjPpw4dL_qmZ24ug6Nh-k86lRoMnLNkr1aKTi6KOSHtS-zC-wsyuFRpqgu38NmtFN-4XIW6ZvB6j5DeGB_LCNhv3-fnaG-VLv0EaZXCQ/s1209/20230627_121841.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0u5WT-_IGlNm-u5AKUphCybYd0RiNK8yDVcl7ipc87QLjwTiMlJk4cve55TNH9jtypYk33VetIGFy3l_xvDdjPpw4dL_qmZ24ug6Nh-k86lRoMnLNkr1aKTi6KOSHtS-zC-wsyuFRpqgu38NmtFN-4XIW6ZvB6j5DeGB_LCNhv3-fnaG-VLv0EaZXCQ/s320/20230627_121841.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjA8-yhgtmvbmyPnNcHBxlvV9agiv2EQ7hQy6C1O1JkE3r1EDVYLM-h3IXxlaEV2r3ZwLNrG3-K9JNDucaF6-nhsvwgV-9EQIOfAfIzfgVWMY4K_A4vMT5w6WWK3OXrHhWWpv8pDyZP8gDjIqcXVq4wqBVlorHkIcGcOL-tsKR4PkWowu2EPlxG8CsyeQ/s1209/20230627_121844.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjA8-yhgtmvbmyPnNcHBxlvV9agiv2EQ7hQy6C1O1JkE3r1EDVYLM-h3IXxlaEV2r3ZwLNrG3-K9JNDucaF6-nhsvwgV-9EQIOfAfIzfgVWMY4K_A4vMT5w6WWK3OXrHhWWpv8pDyZP8gDjIqcXVq4wqBVlorHkIcGcOL-tsKR4PkWowu2EPlxG8CsyeQ/s320/20230627_121844.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gARMisyxYYq143q85adPuDk_QhVaLkV_25cV24m2V5Zvs38_83Yg6F7P-7FzWBUKP5GknNJQ1fcw4p-thZCg6E8gO3nrI8vPRJDUmq3URWppZkYozYhpNED4HauXxFM-dptRBqAisBSRVhGgR48dO_CjPj1yJrXlQc9a1I_AoR0t_uqE4gV79WYDDLU/s1209/20230627_121938.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gARMisyxYYq143q85adPuDk_QhVaLkV_25cV24m2V5Zvs38_83Yg6F7P-7FzWBUKP5GknNJQ1fcw4p-thZCg6E8gO3nrI8vPRJDUmq3URWppZkYozYhpNED4HauXxFM-dptRBqAisBSRVhGgR48dO_CjPj1yJrXlQc9a1I_AoR0t_uqE4gV79WYDDLU/s320/20230627_121938.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02CRZDGs8X_5vEZay7bBrtFRUMVsoa1Opj0R1fHSASDumFN-oZ4J9tag2AEw6hxeZIwJI0QDV6GkIh5VLWBXwhn6ySTmT2OM9Od3XjoGsDfKt0WoexZfXF42tQvvtOOTypqQo0xIOPA9p773aFwal8rTwH6yAhu5MhJySwEn6osEAIaW0ebAwLTDj8V8/s1209/20230627_121958.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02CRZDGs8X_5vEZay7bBrtFRUMVsoa1Opj0R1fHSASDumFN-oZ4J9tag2AEw6hxeZIwJI0QDV6GkIh5VLWBXwhn6ySTmT2OM9Od3XjoGsDfKt0WoexZfXF42tQvvtOOTypqQo0xIOPA9p773aFwal8rTwH6yAhu5MhJySwEn6osEAIaW0ebAwLTDj8V8/s320/20230627_121958.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjoTg7IcYXnIqSjGLd3WrOx5jwgR5WinCjnoQCFE_or8_Batl_GatYUs13NoCUHPRbhepQIFrL9VFJJ3TLL1irZ7s4uP83VTt7KkVCogTB7aefVcqspgX_Z8oDqTj4pog041Bd9DHDq81jejkwHD7d3JNdRMuciTwTIDhB1NA0NUkAlmTDyx4zY1AYOA/s1209/20230627_122150.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjoTg7IcYXnIqSjGLd3WrOx5jwgR5WinCjnoQCFE_or8_Batl_GatYUs13NoCUHPRbhepQIFrL9VFJJ3TLL1irZ7s4uP83VTt7KkVCogTB7aefVcqspgX_Z8oDqTj4pog041Bd9DHDq81jejkwHD7d3JNdRMuciTwTIDhB1NA0NUkAlmTDyx4zY1AYOA/s320/20230627_122150.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Scendere non è impresa più semplice che salire. Ma, una volta giù, nel giro di pochi minuti, completiamo il sentiero e giungiamo alla prima laguna, dove si trova l'imbarcadero delle lance con cui si possono visitare questi specchi d'acqua dolce e limpidissima incastonati tra giungla e mare (che ospita la seconda più grande barriera corallina dopo quella australiana, e un'infinità di specie marine, dai cetacei alle tartarughe). Questo è habitat da lamantini, ma anche da coccodrilli e oltre 300 specie di uccelli (mentre nella foresta si trovano giaguari, scimmie, tapiri, granchi terricoli giganti...).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Appare davanti a noi una distesa d'acqua che va dal verde al blu, passando per tutte le sfumature di luce ed ombra. Conosciamo Juan, el capitan, che ci guiderà alla scoperta di questi luoghi, con la sua esperienza e le sue placche metalliche a forma di cuore sugli incisivi superiori. Appena saliti, e siamo solo noi tre, dà gas e iniziamo a sfrecciare in questo paradiso alla velocità del vento. Intanto ci spiega quel che sa in merito alle piante, ai pesci, al clima e alla storia di questo posto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6p-MInF-rs2YmyVU0W-mh8hAOALN37vhCo95-jsJgX0ryOxFRXkPr3kCUnirfk0jDqTzlNCoLpmqmhimNtaDf9oglYflPibmoI2kcLU7VKJFNLJvjqJ-q-NKx5W0W2lSWLDO9iti76xeHBb-dHHNbw8JA4F1L7iGHAnRPVpyt48wH_fByZR-hQ2PvH0/s1170/20230627_123307.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1170" data-original-width="878" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6p-MInF-rs2YmyVU0W-mh8hAOALN37vhCo95-jsJgX0ryOxFRXkPr3kCUnirfk0jDqTzlNCoLpmqmhimNtaDf9oglYflPibmoI2kcLU7VKJFNLJvjqJ-q-NKx5W0W2lSWLDO9iti76xeHBb-dHHNbw8JA4F1L7iGHAnRPVpyt48wH_fByZR-hQ2PvH0/s320/20230627_123307.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtp5iW6gWi13FyFniQq8EWP5H2zBJm97CIDK7lb1PxCc_ZkOiq1CdlJ6qesbxDhZm62lgWIpj8lavV4CW1YS38Ociu5AFpqbRD_iecNBoGH5Pnq3mhbCJjt8tlnuFZ0rdVj9DGALwr3RLLcjRV40i1N5P0CEc5_bCvqIxB_0pIfrAtviVPca-r2IbEpNA/s1145/20230627_123441.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1145" data-original-width="859" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtp5iW6gWi13FyFniQq8EWP5H2zBJm97CIDK7lb1PxCc_ZkOiq1CdlJ6qesbxDhZm62lgWIpj8lavV4CW1YS38Ociu5AFpqbRD_iecNBoGH5Pnq3mhbCJjt8tlnuFZ0rdVj9DGALwr3RLLcjRV40i1N5P0CEc5_bCvqIxB_0pIfrAtviVPca-r2IbEpNA/s320/20230627_123441.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMSON3213exXvjByufDjt2NAPFwYIGDLqKqTyQc0MqCZ0ArxqA2unsRhyXEH0uASmXwCx_ofvB9OapjdKdlntQwFAj7BKb6RxZQKoonaTO1mEPwk5JvpI1X6Wkwv4fXPIzdzFwv-YMzaxOUJ-fJI9Gx8v2C3bLz1dy_VdAKrPoeKrYb6HEOw8coN8qw5c/s1209/20230627_123726.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMSON3213exXvjByufDjt2NAPFwYIGDLqKqTyQc0MqCZ0ArxqA2unsRhyXEH0uASmXwCx_ofvB9OapjdKdlntQwFAj7BKb6RxZQKoonaTO1mEPwk5JvpI1X6Wkwv4fXPIzdzFwv-YMzaxOUJ-fJI9Gx8v2C3bLz1dy_VdAKrPoeKrYb6HEOw8coN8qw5c/s320/20230627_123726.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxHmuEofnQQkXMYB0O6jGx6XAGJB8t8kM8liz0HWiwtCBIbdJYySrUlWrhPQj4dTZuJsm3orcfl7PWSpO4D93-q6_BanM5TQzrO_BFNWDrxie7QDnYgz-BMp7cApBu2FmND4AyxI-eAPy3Vbtb0SHDWN0ArltB2oVjpQFmNsGfGLwbichwc6HNQHHFGMc/s1209/20230627_123743.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxHmuEofnQQkXMYB0O6jGx6XAGJB8t8kM8liz0HWiwtCBIbdJYySrUlWrhPQj4dTZuJsm3orcfl7PWSpO4D93-q6_BanM5TQzrO_BFNWDrxie7QDnYgz-BMp7cApBu2FmND4AyxI-eAPy3Vbtb0SHDWN0ArltB2oVjpQFmNsGfGLwbichwc6HNQHHFGMc/s320/20230627_123743.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo la folle corsa adrenalinica, che è un sorso di azzurro che finisce dritto nei polmoni, rallentiamo per percorrere il canale artificiale, costruito 500 anni fa dai maya, che mette in comunicazione una laguna con l'altra. L'acqua è trasparente e sul fondo sabbioso si vedono granchi e pesciolini, oltre alle radici delle mangrovie. Intorno, per kilometri, un tappeto fittissimo di piante acquatiche.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ODrwS4RqpYvQXR8KGEIg48z0rwd3odHY4eVVBym0w5lEv_KKcJt5Ylpb0g477t3u8BV9EDz7LiZgrq7gnPKFTzbH53iBSTYwujSWluUCMz-FlUQph8DYm0I0Oyl35yC_acADzmzfLRINZIQvo0UpWFaRhPTAUVOw1hSZ0hSqp0C47siE5PCh9QYyLZU/s1209/20230627_123758.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ODrwS4RqpYvQXR8KGEIg48z0rwd3odHY4eVVBym0w5lEv_KKcJt5Ylpb0g477t3u8BV9EDz7LiZgrq7gnPKFTzbH53iBSTYwujSWluUCMz-FlUQph8DYm0I0Oyl35yC_acADzmzfLRINZIQvo0UpWFaRhPTAUVOw1hSZ0hSqp0C47siE5PCh9QYyLZU/s320/20230627_123758.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4jIE4Wd6FU7h-ZdjCHzSEGWVI5wkwzUdACKelQHLJDSiIuGxaLBPW9nupW2QeWY1N-iLwvkSSRtgHVHzRCwCIb9y1Zq-8QGM9RSgwLvDUeOxv4fDYSswRAW31cnptpv9txGv9Gh83E4N-wRLyllvREDGnfLCcdwZowURTquoYfpbx4H3RmTEM-b7rbY/s1209/20230627_123926.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4jIE4Wd6FU7h-ZdjCHzSEGWVI5wkwzUdACKelQHLJDSiIuGxaLBPW9nupW2QeWY1N-iLwvkSSRtgHVHzRCwCIb9y1Zq-8QGM9RSgwLvDUeOxv4fDYSswRAW31cnptpv9txGv9Gh83E4N-wRLyllvREDGnfLCcdwZowURTquoYfpbx4H3RmTEM-b7rbY/s320/20230627_123926.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDDXvLNQY2tDcaqxbjRI4e4YRBEI4kE1EM9szOj7PAG2knA2c8cxr8IYlMypDy5Jm9EZKbIb_Rwm4RRLoMPWncn8-UZVM6gYUGiwcxjexVvQLmI9bTb1o5Gzwu4-YyLqcG8X_jK-cjSKzWNuIJ08BDUR_Ur9cqa4pJQBWYSdPTksu_kgPF-dQ9U97KR4/s1157/20230627_123930.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1157" data-original-width="868" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDDXvLNQY2tDcaqxbjRI4e4YRBEI4kE1EM9szOj7PAG2knA2c8cxr8IYlMypDy5Jm9EZKbIb_Rwm4RRLoMPWncn8-UZVM6gYUGiwcxjexVvQLmI9bTb1o5Gzwu4-YyLqcG8X_jK-cjSKzWNuIJ08BDUR_Ur9cqa4pJQBWYSdPTksu_kgPF-dQ9U97KR4/s320/20230627_123930.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjneeoZUW7mej89857nQHNm7_xD7-OTLcRsLZ8gWXfb458m0_ndLnxLOA8qjOvhJjtEyccc03EC6qBdczx9Jpbg5rqGc1SqqVU3WKmgaYktXGnQv1339yyxW9oxOHN6gW4uN6dpCcks-RNpiJsT6acONYPEiM54IYngEq1toD2d1RMR-rwsbZPhjAYyA/s1164/20230627_123950.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1164" data-original-width="873" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjneeoZUW7mej89857nQHNm7_xD7-OTLcRsLZ8gWXfb458m0_ndLnxLOA8qjOvhJjtEyccc03EC6qBdczx9Jpbg5rqGc1SqqVU3WKmgaYktXGnQv1339yyxW9oxOHN6gW4uN6dpCcks-RNpiJsT6acONYPEiM54IYngEq1toD2d1RMR-rwsbZPhjAYyA/s320/20230627_123950.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidSgmhzMbNII-5QiN6l6QtQj3BxVRmPpMc8Y5QIYrSfeVdfstdouVSOtKmyKzPcK0Ui15zzV_0K31hO98g0DsvhOsqCk5n6hvetdTOX_0-AftrM7x8Z0QpY61e90z84picJBrHWmMbRheKHX9v077RI1KcFxN5z_W5VjHseClJq25UcOS-apBzuFmX4wU/s1209/20230627_124004.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidSgmhzMbNII-5QiN6l6QtQj3BxVRmPpMc8Y5QIYrSfeVdfstdouVSOtKmyKzPcK0Ui15zzV_0K31hO98g0DsvhOsqCk5n6hvetdTOX_0-AftrM7x8Z0QpY61e90z84picJBrHWmMbRheKHX9v077RI1KcFxN5z_W5VjHseClJq25UcOS-apBzuFmX4wU/s320/20230627_124004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzt9HE2tEGrNryCyVAR59RAMYpnyuop5H-EEKhScnKjwdLCtBrEwwzVzWhcZ96uw9RAZY7_9T9i75eUldqZL5D2D462SphbrG8ryKlBMft0GADiIHMIdkBVLIzuz7hHZrsmEjDwvheTfxUL0PC7CPuQEShv15DfGFytywvtImBcdX1sEvF1ig1rL7D2tY/s1209/20230627_124111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzt9HE2tEGrNryCyVAR59RAMYpnyuop5H-EEKhScnKjwdLCtBrEwwzVzWhcZ96uw9RAZY7_9T9i75eUldqZL5D2D462SphbrG8ryKlBMft0GADiIHMIdkBVLIzuz7hHZrsmEjDwvheTfxUL0PC7CPuQEShv15DfGFytywvtImBcdX1sEvF1ig1rL7D2tY/s320/20230627_124111.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaESNSXYC2l3LdG9-BVFCJ6buN7Dj1sMFecCK5V06XSV-3DjL2PJ4yS62S9S-cuBoNW-s17J4Y2X0kAl-xYqgx_3NGEqNqAka8EZZ7X_UVW9TlmvpIgXscH1NLgwoQL13-4FmTgwINK7nFDr3XB9KFyKpmD-bN6cC0Pie0DgsAesOrXkUQfOd-8Eo28bk/s1209/20230627_124116.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaESNSXYC2l3LdG9-BVFCJ6buN7Dj1sMFecCK5V06XSV-3DjL2PJ4yS62S9S-cuBoNW-s17J4Y2X0kAl-xYqgx_3NGEqNqAka8EZZ7X_UVW9TlmvpIgXscH1NLgwoQL13-4FmTgwINK7nFDr3XB9KFyKpmD-bN6cC0Pie0DgsAesOrXkUQfOd-8Eo28bk/s320/20230627_124116.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2fpfDrq6iblpZHrzIj9buRRNrKBmZUXkV-OKB8aBO1qq98qKHv-DenTfBygctMQnstiY9HIoCFPn8VxfFNlIbtaTNaFCZE26HeXO1EGSCV9znJBg7DyMDYHMHlaFslqXfbHJVWY2CLi9Xo5LJbEvyD-t57FOtoFW8J-_7sVQ-O5wXaXEHgu7DU96ItM/s1209/20230627_124139.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2fpfDrq6iblpZHrzIj9buRRNrKBmZUXkV-OKB8aBO1qq98qKHv-DenTfBygctMQnstiY9HIoCFPn8VxfFNlIbtaTNaFCZE26HeXO1EGSCV9znJBg7DyMDYHMHlaFslqXfbHJVWY2CLi9Xo5LJbEvyD-t57FOtoFW8J-_7sVQ-O5wXaXEHgu7DU96ItM/s320/20230627_124139.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Giungiamo nella seconda laguna, e qui i colori sono diversi, ma non meno affascinanti. Con un'altra breve corsa Juan ci porta all'imboccatura di un secondo canale, questa volta naturale, dove è possibile fare il bagno. Gigi ha già rinunciato in partenza, io non vedo l'ora!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHggD3prjlrxNcmwcad3JuXqLFPvJSMPc25vampyo7bOx8B9lYfTE36ROO6xEBw57ul35bm8l_P2wI7uMDyXEYxWKmPpqscN_dXvL_oGHzMjGmh-28iacgV45Djh4Ng0vLbeFzRj9U8laqujkGWFPh2A1L8FhdXpxHSoMbhbmTKUCWeokEXLlHTSJczM/s1209/20230627_124146.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHggD3prjlrxNcmwcad3JuXqLFPvJSMPc25vampyo7bOx8B9lYfTE36ROO6xEBw57ul35bm8l_P2wI7uMDyXEYxWKmPpqscN_dXvL_oGHzMjGmh-28iacgV45Djh4Ng0vLbeFzRj9U8laqujkGWFPh2A1L8FhdXpxHSoMbhbmTKUCWeokEXLlHTSJczM/s320/20230627_124146.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjDpW8S1Fo-EUcdBAEP-XLPsam8CKk5SIPyQw0plY0Ovi0QvBmoURLAJ50ReUA5TOYiPVyjzryX0YvaiCeyOAgosiNLS73fLElrjSiAxdoADQovj_biRP4uzc9Uysmsw6OAJUhedXIA6U1u7Dg7aoFcGz8eRMS2I3uV4WYvuZ0d0ibPoBJRA-o_BLqRY/s1209/20230627_124219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCjDpW8S1Fo-EUcdBAEP-XLPsam8CKk5SIPyQw0plY0Ovi0QvBmoURLAJ50ReUA5TOYiPVyjzryX0YvaiCeyOAgosiNLS73fLElrjSiAxdoADQovj_biRP4uzc9Uysmsw6OAJUhedXIA6U1u7Dg7aoFcGz8eRMS2I3uV4WYvuZ0d0ibPoBJRA-o_BLqRY/s320/20230627_124219.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DA2_mrocATMbz_OGY0pm9vbKJMnAjyoDR8rn4aABsaz9guZBmWEdMZf1Uz98j2QU2UKwIecb14JaIzQWJm1v3VlWiPz-TzpdKWr3Ez7Ksayk3-WBdb0Skn9ky-TgamrTLadMu-qYKDtpQX7Vqp-A1XMhx4VTOToF5chxlhra5xC8kxIYIiiWV_zZds4/s1209/20230627_124224.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-DA2_mrocATMbz_OGY0pm9vbKJMnAjyoDR8rn4aABsaz9guZBmWEdMZf1Uz98j2QU2UKwIecb14JaIzQWJm1v3VlWiPz-TzpdKWr3Ez7Ksayk3-WBdb0Skn9ky-TgamrTLadMu-qYKDtpQX7Vqp-A1XMhx4VTOToF5chxlhra5xC8kxIYIiiWV_zZds4/s320/20230627_124224.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xEskbyBYdrO-gT9K1fk_A4l7lPDKcYAxA5-38ZbziExuZ_R-27a-gbPwIsUmLZcVDrWMCB20RTClwI22ykTjLsNGZc41Zrp0sjTPEBtDiJ9fDC7mXz-4bQqHtdliZxy9xio_nZBD5-e8DUYNF312PKzR52DjVAGoktHNOJwh4Wp-2m42XwkTkaOgESY/s989/20230627_124528.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xEskbyBYdrO-gT9K1fk_A4l7lPDKcYAxA5-38ZbziExuZ_R-27a-gbPwIsUmLZcVDrWMCB20RTClwI22ykTjLsNGZc41Zrp0sjTPEBtDiJ9fDC7mXz-4bQqHtdliZxy9xio_nZBD5-e8DUYNF312PKzR52DjVAGoktHNOJwh4Wp-2m42XwkTkaOgESY/s320/20230627_124528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3JbOvirzNPUq3k677vBZSW98MBXXRFBp6xIUSFJMV45_eAW5YmMiBMtQBFfzrT0XV6x_-LU2kGTuYLXivELWRZqYYJwzGkPtD7dqENiwhIiWdGxYUPcqgqESkcx5jU9KOl4oHYcXRaRjedB9ln3vtnDbrsdEtCvhxU-DgMTiqlXRM1gN50ICGSYZ9cE/s1209/20230627_134400.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3JbOvirzNPUq3k677vBZSW98MBXXRFBp6xIUSFJMV45_eAW5YmMiBMtQBFfzrT0XV6x_-LU2kGTuYLXivELWRZqYYJwzGkPtD7dqENiwhIiWdGxYUPcqgqESkcx5jU9KOl4oHYcXRaRjedB9ln3vtnDbrsdEtCvhxU-DgMTiqlXRM1gN50ICGSYZ9cE/s320/20230627_134400.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82iD8A0_v2r6_c79L-iU3Rqk4pazj3rJyihrTIu50Qn0RlbL1Ka4GZw19zfqebkzfqDUlK6mk3p-YC8Sqk9RukK4u8-2aJDlmqDUOxea1WO10EI6FeK5WnA0rS7FhuyUAvUsk_9ZeJek3qRVodtKAT_2AFtct0JcKH0-BmIcUQfLOLdkjBqqiINVSMMQ/s1209/20230627_134403.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi82iD8A0_v2r6_c79L-iU3Rqk4pazj3rJyihrTIu50Qn0RlbL1Ka4GZw19zfqebkzfqDUlK6mk3p-YC8Sqk9RukK4u8-2aJDlmqDUOxea1WO10EI6FeK5WnA0rS7FhuyUAvUsk_9ZeJek3qRVodtKAT_2AFtct0JcKH0-BmIcUQfLOLdkjBqqiINVSMMQ/s320/20230627_134403.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUYMggMLK_8kI1YJI-B-7Cj4luI6Taft9ixK73Ff-uDK2M2G-0IFtuUOf8fvJignecrLwFIffzNljghuHMUJqGf3HWATuc5AfNiGFrxVaXUamp-AbOlw25-G96oIpZevaWLTvLN3tccAu_C0zgBaP786MDm0Uon5oU-DA1T8BV3018zvdYbCPRr3K79mc/s1131/20230627_134526.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1131" data-original-width="848" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUYMggMLK_8kI1YJI-B-7Cj4luI6Taft9ixK73Ff-uDK2M2G-0IFtuUOf8fvJignecrLwFIffzNljghuHMUJqGf3HWATuc5AfNiGFrxVaXUamp-AbOlw25-G96oIpZevaWLTvLN3tccAu_C0zgBaP786MDm0Uon5oU-DA1T8BV3018zvdYbCPRr3K79mc/s320/20230627_134526.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESvGm1YUyEgg9g78Nvxaw1UlGjm3JRqvTS8MAMym43CMAgCMzEjDGwVhQvyHGa06--1Wd5dqJmVA6KROb3ANqMs1pRu6U6HSAuDR8Yhm8uNqlLMfc4eV4czFgiNep5Y0mcDBBrp0SXVUKbu0O8hi5U2oqlWLs1XL11iUNR2pct-eOJ6Y7zh4pJOJMkBA/s1209/20230627_134608.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESvGm1YUyEgg9g78Nvxaw1UlGjm3JRqvTS8MAMym43CMAgCMzEjDGwVhQvyHGa06--1Wd5dqJmVA6KROb3ANqMs1pRu6U6HSAuDR8Yhm8uNqlLMfc4eV4czFgiNep5Y0mcDBBrp0SXVUKbu0O8hi5U2oqlWLs1XL11iUNR2pct-eOJ6Y7zh4pJOJMkBA/s320/20230627_134608.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Juan mi spiega come funziona. Non serve nuotare, la corrente, pur placida, porta fino alla fine del canale. Mi fa indossare il giubbotto salvagente, che è obbligatorio, a mo' di pannolino, infilando le gambe dove solitamente van le braccia. Così ho una specie di seggiolino galleggiante e non mi resta che godermi l'acqua tiepida e trasparente, nell'ombra delle mangrovie che lasciano filtrare la luce a chiazze. Gigi e il capitan mi aspettano alla fine del canale, che impiego circa 20 minuti a percorrere. 20 minuti di benessere totale, di immersione completa nella natura, di silenzio, di pace purissima. Il fatto che a poca distanza vivano colonie di coccodrilli non mi crea problemi, al massimo mi farò mettere l'uncino anche io.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE6MgxnwLmE6yoimjVI6ueUhuaAutNvKtFTjDFOSSWbrzEBDqYTEoxLWKRF4tOM_bjKm4w2ZK2kIxh8kBeIzOj4QGdr1SzkPNiuc_xQLTogs9IeQChtlELv5AGA86UweQMIEjwkeHDXLp4-PTcB_F8GG2q3WwaTpvQw9Ro6Yb4ZdQ2W7igrn8KzEVnBNk/s1600/IMG-20230627-WA0009.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE6MgxnwLmE6yoimjVI6ueUhuaAutNvKtFTjDFOSSWbrzEBDqYTEoxLWKRF4tOM_bjKm4w2ZK2kIxh8kBeIzOj4QGdr1SzkPNiuc_xQLTogs9IeQChtlELv5AGA86UweQMIEjwkeHDXLp4-PTcB_F8GG2q3WwaTpvQw9Ro6Yb4ZdQ2W7igrn8KzEVnBNk/s320/IMG-20230627-WA0009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSpOCmQR4CUg772xi58FmoccVLDDU-IihtM9msPhB4b82Gwxwsa8ALsBXOI3eZkuFeMkTieSJfHXQEw67I5EU4OpTSF0bRft8bKA2DREuWQaD4-na0uwVMgVITs-FKuDzGviBDDUPqTGwVOwNzfNxrG9ZG0G32R_BklgYZGalFWQMa33mS18r4OBFswmw/s1600/IMG-20230627-WA0011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSpOCmQR4CUg772xi58FmoccVLDDU-IihtM9msPhB4b82Gwxwsa8ALsBXOI3eZkuFeMkTieSJfHXQEw67I5EU4OpTSF0bRft8bKA2DREuWQaD4-na0uwVMgVITs-FKuDzGviBDDUPqTGwVOwNzfNxrG9ZG0G32R_BklgYZGalFWQMa33mS18r4OBFswmw/s320/IMG-20230627-WA0011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Purtroppo viene il momento di rientrare. Chiacchieriamo un po' con Juan. Ci spiega che lui è originario di Veracruz, suo papà è mancato ma sua mamma è ancora là. Ci consiglia, ridendo, di assaggiare i tacos di iguana. Racconta che lui fa il barcaiolo e la guida qui, ma può fare solo due corse al giorno; nel resto del tempo fa il carpentiere, e costruisce infissi, porte... Poi rimane fulminato dal nostro viaggio in bici e, in generale, dalle altre esperienze degli scorsi anni. Ci riempie di domande, è entusiasta. Io divento immediatamente El zorro pedaleante. Mi dice, quando gli spiego il percorso qui in Messico, che sono tutte zone spettacolari. Ma poi mi sfiora la testa e chiede, sorridendo: "Que tiene en esta cabezita?". Insomma, mi ha dato della testina anche lui!</div><div><br /></div><div>Lo salutiamo, ci dà una benedizione un po' blasfema e poi riprendiamo il nostro cammino, ripassando per le rovine di Muyil.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-TCEU3RPif0r_GQp_cr03fCxTPnluW-JwQ2VblIm0TYqki6N9XGVm5w1MBFpJ8VViwSM0ZapZlNnzekt7Lg2ZnGjN2dMGImDpQwUyM5M1bNVpIgoK81g0dKhCkawAclvy4A8soRmditZm3aYdWDnO21__GHgi4cYjBDCJoO9spHmHDSxoChRcDTWVVE/s1209/20230627_134826.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-TCEU3RPif0r_GQp_cr03fCxTPnluW-JwQ2VblIm0TYqki6N9XGVm5w1MBFpJ8VViwSM0ZapZlNnzekt7Lg2ZnGjN2dMGImDpQwUyM5M1bNVpIgoK81g0dKhCkawAclvy4A8soRmditZm3aYdWDnO21__GHgi4cYjBDCJoO9spHmHDSxoChRcDTWVVE/s320/20230627_134826.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_WcB2wINtuR1x5AcO6DGpTCI0c8dOqdfgoXGssUkiiOhfmdaZBJUGo2T6_rx9mQvyzE3hmZ4mCZa__D0hjaWWYJYoSwY-ROOiqtfX9po0Az__fs2eT09GnF8JThnUwvZFFxgKGRSafphlbv0eeT6J9KHydnQUp2kZkuOi8-qWLfcZMWyx9g6FdiMN-4/s1209/20230627_141429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_WcB2wINtuR1x5AcO6DGpTCI0c8dOqdfgoXGssUkiiOhfmdaZBJUGo2T6_rx9mQvyzE3hmZ4mCZa__D0hjaWWYJYoSwY-ROOiqtfX9po0Az__fs2eT09GnF8JThnUwvZFFxgKGRSafphlbv0eeT6J9KHydnQUp2kZkuOi8-qWLfcZMWyx9g6FdiMN-4/s320/20230627_141429.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit46SY8C6rq5AikE5Wb9sOFnq-bqbDvfXkEOI_AQbE6jq86BkCCn6ioGBLmjivhIq4HLV7iPBucrs9X4p8ruUViq7HIgcSUa6lIQb9TSjHcGre3j4G0o-Cu-lpGcECwNQn-MHHozsdqLBvbm0hVtVTPKOIWU3NY7Fd8kAtLsz1hFzh8z34oXDgdP1kYy0/s1209/20230627_141522.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit46SY8C6rq5AikE5Wb9sOFnq-bqbDvfXkEOI_AQbE6jq86BkCCn6ioGBLmjivhIq4HLV7iPBucrs9X4p8ruUViq7HIgcSUa6lIQb9TSjHcGre3j4G0o-Cu-lpGcECwNQn-MHHozsdqLBvbm0hVtVTPKOIWU3NY7Fd8kAtLsz1hFzh8z34oXDgdP1kYy0/s320/20230627_141522.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prendiamo al volo un colectivo vuoto e, nel caldo da coccolone immediato, torniamo a Tulum. Qui facciamo una sosta acqua (si beve tanto, ma tanto tanto) e scopro che il nome dell'imperatore Carlo V, che possedeva, nel Cinquecento, tutto il vecchio e il nuovo mondo, è finito su una bevanda tristissima al cioccolato, di quelle che ti fanno venire il cagotto immediato, anzi, preventivo. Che curiosa forma di vendetta!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyzx9KfLhVXUaN4iRGjT8gThrJXtwDlGDxsZJr8w5GsdsYjT3CQ4mqz1t3dR-rnIjRy1x_dVF2G1KHpFRSdOBC3GaaMkHg7Us7EiT88N8bfvNA0HY6G2g-OXwu2FExbYR3BHeYSXMTTWIEArH9NPsXAL0QWthYBxvNvO2dFozuqgcdXzXWUPhhXo6S8U/s1209/20230627_143331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyzx9KfLhVXUaN4iRGjT8gThrJXtwDlGDxsZJr8w5GsdsYjT3CQ4mqz1t3dR-rnIjRy1x_dVF2G1KHpFRSdOBC3GaaMkHg7Us7EiT88N8bfvNA0HY6G2g-OXwu2FExbYR3BHeYSXMTTWIEArH9NPsXAL0QWthYBxvNvO2dFozuqgcdXzXWUPhhXo6S8U/s320/20230627_143331.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9N53-XJPXfUxh4BuY-b-hD5iEZfe-gkB2FF02AoO-ow09RCxt4PIViRppCrthXOpLMSOhKzRNP1_jjnA2XS4ZjiB66atptUNYgNqfJuBBhpJbjaOD9E6roEAXsbtGMIgt9dAnqefWJUNXPUBYf-Q8mx7pBr881jFLgJxBXGCzzkPCJDcmXC4A8J8aIqo/s1209/20230627_145603.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9N53-XJPXfUxh4BuY-b-hD5iEZfe-gkB2FF02AoO-ow09RCxt4PIViRppCrthXOpLMSOhKzRNP1_jjnA2XS4ZjiB66atptUNYgNqfJuBBhpJbjaOD9E6roEAXsbtGMIgt9dAnqefWJUNXPUBYf-Q8mx7pBr881jFLgJxBXGCzzkPCJDcmXC4A8J8aIqo/s320/20230627_145603.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Con calma recuperiamo i bagagli in hotel, dove ci salutano con molto meno entusiasmo ora che han visto quanto fosse intasato il wc. Facciamo due passi e torniamo alla stazione dei bus, dove ci imbarchiamo per tornare a Cancun. Stasera è la sera delle sere. Arrivano le bici. Forse.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ444gXgwKQCrAqsZzTScaUN1RchjdxxP3WzvdU3HfEJc7Exv5Q4WQdBtjICnrj7BJ_nX3PQaxRms3wUPxDZJqrHZb0uQO4xLlihUGD2LedtJPNd4Dta6Dk3ZgYNsdRmbRWAEXDoCYqh5a2fe_78ujsO61Ueqxic5_1z27Kf6PflaJWdCmp-IaMwQq1o4/s1209/20230627_152757.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ444gXgwKQCrAqsZzTScaUN1RchjdxxP3WzvdU3HfEJc7Exv5Q4WQdBtjICnrj7BJ_nX3PQaxRms3wUPxDZJqrHZb0uQO4xLlihUGD2LedtJPNd4Dta6Dk3ZgYNsdRmbRWAEXDoCYqh5a2fe_78ujsO61Ueqxic5_1z27Kf6PflaJWdCmp-IaMwQq1o4/s320/20230627_152757.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4Cvk2-ujtF7PMlTEiG0pTi8L2krDviLrN2WBNV4k0gaQjeAGAcjskY5srzxmzx3HvGqkG7a67a7fsnktjB8ld2P2ZBnyqAvS9Z9dYHJft2RIkzjClmkoBqu8BNe0knDi-FHWXgUkAFUiMBoROHPzwNJmVxgm6s5EX7j0mWeOiLoRSz4Qd76oXu-I1f8/s1209/20230627_152946.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4Cvk2-ujtF7PMlTEiG0pTi8L2krDviLrN2WBNV4k0gaQjeAGAcjskY5srzxmzx3HvGqkG7a67a7fsnktjB8ld2P2ZBnyqAvS9Z9dYHJft2RIkzjClmkoBqu8BNe0knDi-FHWXgUkAFUiMBoROHPzwNJmVxgm6s5EX7j0mWeOiLoRSz4Qd76oXu-I1f8/s320/20230627_152946.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Burrito al volo e via in hotel, lo stesso dei giorni scorsi, ma in una camera più bella. E' per festeggiare! Aspettiamo in trepidante attesa notizie da parte dell'omino dei bagagli. Il silenzio ci tiene sulle spine.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAWuz5H4r7TnOp1smFX0vaVKBetcYVuXmFsvqXSyIf-kuW_t8_5cnLFSzZRAs2cZ_x5lOu9otIMcXsc9lTnV-8cOBc9pZyAfwvqAx-nJECZiILYWZnWdn5g1DrI5aPVfRUvSBpLXm7TMKRw-7Umr800YKKHYIQbU0ZqBGL4pbS_AhhzIEtDOROy0TTNjA/s1209/20230627_194011.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAWuz5H4r7TnOp1smFX0vaVKBetcYVuXmFsvqXSyIf-kuW_t8_5cnLFSzZRAs2cZ_x5lOu9otIMcXsc9lTnV-8cOBc9pZyAfwvqAx-nJECZiILYWZnWdn5g1DrI5aPVfRUvSBpLXm7TMKRw-7Umr800YKKHYIQbU0ZqBGL4pbS_AhhzIEtDOROy0TTNjA/s320/20230627_194011.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Ma poi... Eccolo! Mi manda su Whatsapp le foto di tutti i nostri scatoloni, perfettamente intatti, tra le sue mani, sul suo carrellino. Gioia! Gaudio! Ho fatto bene oggi a fargli gli auguri per il suo compleanno, è una brava persona e ci sta salvando il culo (oltre agli amici di Gigi che non ringrazieremo mai abbastanza). C'è un attimo di panico perchè mi scrive che lo hanno fermato alla dogana e vogliono fargli pagare una tassa. Ci dice di raggiungerlo immediatamente all'aeroporto, e che lui sta per avere una crisi di nervi e di pianto. Ci vestiamo di corsa per uscire... Ma il problema si risolve quando gli agenti brillantissimi capiscono che nel mio scatolone, che è quello di un tagliaerba, non c'è un tagliaerba, ma vestiti, scarpe e cianfrusaglie varie che servono per il viaggio. Ora siamo in camera e lo stiamo aspettando. Oggi è il giorno dei giorni. Domani si parte pedalando, finalmente!</div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-60023657536644807122023-06-27T07:21:00.000+02:002023-06-27T07:21:20.458+02:001-4. Cancun. BICI PERSE. El hombre pone, Dios dispone, llega el diablo y todo descompone<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMSk51Z-YMHjXwCOPJqgjBq51kq0SSta_aYqQbopiIGegbzCt0_CofBbhcAb3WScSGM74BkwMw-JKVbC0PskrkRUUHIBh0RnyRrzK72srBPvlnK2NpYjq65NzI40oWWDng9JS7H297zpvKQ6F3f_9I2vqeg8M6H4f8SlJezvSM_uFVCwrDxc0C-uozZmA/s1209/20230622_081501.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMSk51Z-YMHjXwCOPJqgjBq51kq0SSta_aYqQbopiIGegbzCt0_CofBbhcAb3WScSGM74BkwMw-JKVbC0PskrkRUUHIBh0RnyRrzK72srBPvlnK2NpYjq65NzI40oWWDng9JS7H297zpvKQ6F3f_9I2vqeg8M6H4f8SlJezvSM_uFVCwrDxc0C-uozZmA/s320/20230622_081501.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">22/6</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: start;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: x-small;">Volo Milano - Madrid - Cancun</span></div><div style="text-align: start;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">I casini iniziano subito. Dopo aver festeggiato gli amici di Upcycle e una notte quasi bianca, arriviamo assonnati e stropicciati a Malpensa. Saluto i miei, incontro Gigi, ci mettiamo in coda al check in con quel mezzo brivido che sempre precede l'imbarco delle bici. Ma questa volta sono certa di aver fatto tutto per bene: due settimane fa ho prenotato il trasporto bici tramite call center, in english, e poi, causa sindrome dell'impostore, ho richiamato il servizio clienti (in italiano) per chiedere conferma che fosse tutto ok. "Tutt'appost!" mi dice il buon uomo, rassicurante, al telefono. Quindi mi beo della mia bravura: sono riuscita ad aggirare i limiti posti alla prenotazione online (perché il biglietto è emesso da Aeromexico ma operato da AirEuropa che si rimbalzano a vicenda). Pecco così di hybris. Quando tocca a noi, al check in, iniziano i visi corrucciati e le mezze parole tra il personale di terra. In breve: la prenotazione delle bici risulta, ma ha un errore di forma che impedisce agli addetti di confermare il servizio e di farcela imbarcare. Ci spiegano che si tratta di un conflitto (assai frequente) tra compagnie, per cui una scarica le responsabilità addosso all'altra e viceversa. Per fortuna la nostra situazione viene presa a cuore da due addetti, che iniziano a fare telefonate in tutte le lingue per sbloccare la situazione. Passano così due ore e mezza. Il check in è già chiuso e noi nemmeno riusciamo a pagare (200€ per ciascuna bici!) se non dopo essere stati rimbalzati e bistrattati. Alla fine il nodo si scioglie, otteniamo i bollini magici che faranno arrivare le bici a destinazione e... Iniziamo a correre! Perché già hanno imbarcato tutti e noi dobbiamo ancora fare i controlli di sicurezza. Sudati, stressati e affannati riusciamo a lanciarci sull'aereo, a prender posto e... Rimanere lì fermi per un'ora. Il volo è stato posticipato. <span style="text-align: start;">Questo ritardo ci costringe poi a correre come cani maledetti anche a Madrid, dove lo scalo, originariamente di due ore, si è ridotto a meno di una. Anche qui, capicollando, riusciamo a non perdere la coincidenza e, soddisfatti per aver tenuto botta alle varie sfighe, ci prepariamo alle 10 ore di volo per Cancún. Il tempo passa tra film, letture e pisolini da collo torto, e, finalmente, atterriamo in Messico. Che figata!</span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXyDk8Rj33JomTAWN27l6LyzoRg2d4bltEKm4Dk4jA1hSFt8X7cnmzhBghlUo7dEXH75Lo--5PQrfJtUGwalVnoBQpEUR1VnBvHXhY85Fv6oVxYvhnx0eejtTaV5t1B0M6U6Pr84-Q78QzD_64mRxCUolyuwFfdFtdB6Y7UoNF75XVm61QVQzv6nNGABc/s1209/20230622_114538.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXyDk8Rj33JomTAWN27l6LyzoRg2d4bltEKm4Dk4jA1hSFt8X7cnmzhBghlUo7dEXH75Lo--5PQrfJtUGwalVnoBQpEUR1VnBvHXhY85Fv6oVxYvhnx0eejtTaV5t1B0M6U6Pr84-Q78QzD_64mRxCUolyuwFfdFtdB6Y7UoNF75XVm61QVQzv6nNGABc/s320/20230622_114538.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFKHHSrFAfW8fxYnM0VoomCoZ95q_elEGHTmaL6YsjtgpagxOFw_rZzxvG_l7yoJRDESLf263aHv573l-z_Mdm62g1X5oAYUzX7Oh29qWzabEjxm8zyHnJl9444kJBR1dcOBe1WrqCBM2JJLlUPwQl1dTeHHMCcE_z1EGSxh9nLUBzBPs2CD6ClNgRhM/s1210/20230622_150721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFKHHSrFAfW8fxYnM0VoomCoZ95q_elEGHTmaL6YsjtgpagxOFw_rZzxvG_l7yoJRDESLf263aHv573l-z_Mdm62g1X5oAYUzX7Oh29qWzabEjxm8zyHnJl9444kJBR1dcOBe1WrqCBM2JJLlUPwQl1dTeHHMCcE_z1EGSxh9nLUBzBPs2CD6ClNgRhM/s320/20230622_150721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Affrontiamo le bolge del controllo passaporti e poi ci appostiamo Gigi al nastro dei bagagli, io alla porta dei bulky armati di carrellini. Aspetta e aspetta. Aspetta e aspetta ancora... Niente. I nostri compagni di volo sono ormai andati via tutti con le loro belle valigie, tranne noi, e una manciata di altri sommersi. Inizia una spola disperata tra addetti ai bagagli. Ciascuno sostiene non sia sua competenza. Dopo altre due ore, compare un ragazzino con dei moduli. Di qualcuno il baglio è smarrito. Panico. "Per te ho una buona notizia, le bici non sono perse, sono solo in un altro continente". Ah. E quando arrivano? "Dopodomani! Ve le portiamo direttamente in hotel!". Mh... La fiducia e l'ottimismo non sono ai massimi storici, eh, ma che si può fare d'altro? Allora compilo tutte le scartoffie e via, proseguiamo, alleggeriti, orbi, scempiati dei nostri bagagli, verso gli ultimi controlli. Se non altro ora ci attende un pullmino privato, prenotato qualche giorno fa e già pagato... Certo, ora fa ridere che per due persone e due borsette si muova un autotreno ma almeno non dobbiamo brigare per raggiungere l'hotel.</div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">E invece...</div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Invece, siccome siamo in ritardo, l'autista se ne è andato, senza manco avvertire, senza un messaggio né un vago tentativo di contatto. Litigo via Whatsapp in spanglish sia con la compagnia di trasporti sia con la reception che ce l'ha consigliata. Intanto Gigi ritira i primi pesos. Morale: ci attacchiamo al ca'! "Prendiamo un taxi" propone Gigi. Ok. Usciamo, evitiamo i primi raccattagente che tutto sono meno che autorizzati, e, quando siamo in zona taxi veri, veniamo abbordati da autisti che provano a farci preventivi da 100 dollari (americani!)... Follia! Il trasporto privato con pullmino ne costava 30. Allora torniamo dentro e ci imbarchiamo nell'impresa di capire come funzioni con il bus. Fortunatamente è tutto molto semplice: in breve facciamo i biglietti e ci portiamo alla fermata. Appena si resta fuori qualche minuto, ci si rende conto di quanto caldo faccia. Sono le 21 ed è già buio pesto. I vestiti si appiccicano sulla pelle, l'umidità è indescrivibile. Si comincia a sudare e a boccheggiare, e i movimenti rallentano. Dovremo farci l'abitudine! </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-S_B4mNvrMkFNFlpx0MrpC0tTpmkz3RMVwNSDGiZzgE-IfhQ75K8OrlXB1kQnb0LetaEyUMrc47iwia9b4t1V_g4njV6Zakp2y1iVKTSugQU9p7Pn4Z3y8mo2akIXsotm_Y9OW5wDH3E6U_RZwTnW6230h9QBY0hSVQ7zUy4ziu2oqQCKMzfZCvnKCj0/s1210/20230622_221331.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="1210" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-S_B4mNvrMkFNFlpx0MrpC0tTpmkz3RMVwNSDGiZzgE-IfhQ75K8OrlXB1kQnb0LetaEyUMrc47iwia9b4t1V_g4njV6Zakp2y1iVKTSugQU9p7Pn4Z3y8mo2akIXsotm_Y9OW5wDH3E6U_RZwTnW6230h9QBY0hSVQ7zUy4ziu2oqQCKMzfZCvnKCj0/s320/20230622_221331.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;">Mentre il bus fa mille soste e manovre incomprensibili, perché qui essere in orario è maleducazione, si squarciano i cieli in un acquazzone devastante. Noi siamo storditi e ci ridiamo su... "Potrebbe andar peggio! Potrebbe piovere!" ci diciamo. Unica consolazione: ci stiamo già tarando con il fuso (qui 7 ore in meno rispetto all'Italia), con queste 24 ore di veglia travagliata. Scendiamo alla stazione centrale dei bus e veniamo investiti da un muro di umidità rovente, densa di odori. Carne alla griglia, immondizia, salsedine, spezie, sudore, profumo dolciastro di fiori di altri mondi. Dalla fermata all'hotel è una passeggiata di venti minuti che ci porta fuori dal centro pettinato e marchiato USA verso la Cancún più autentica, zozza e, dicono malfamata. In realtà, a parte i marciapiedi scassati e i fili della corrente che creano una disordinata matassa a mezz'aria, la sensazione è di tranquillità. Ci sono localacci dove la gente beve e balla nella musica sparata a tutto volume, venditori ambulanti di epatite A e qualche perro addormentato. Insomma, niente di nuovo rispetto a quanto già visto in Perù lo scorso anno. Raggiungiamo l'hotel e, dopo una doccia fresca, rimettendoci i vestiti lerci che ci terranno compagnia per tre giorni, piombiamo nel sonno. </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;">23/6</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;">Cancun</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">La notte trascorre nella caldazza sudata nonostante l'aria condizionata, che sarà materia di contese tra me e Gigi finché non torniamo in Italia (io la odio e ho sempre paura di ammalarmi, e la considero un borghese capriccio bambinesco... Lui soffre il caldo). Alle 5 siamo già attivi, con ancora un cordone ombelicale che lega la nostra ghiandola pineale all'Italia. Compiliamo gli ulteriori mille moduli per assicurarci che i bagagli perdidos arrivino a destinazione e alle 7 siamo in strada. Il caldo è già devastante. Basta camminare, anzi, basta respirare e ci si infradicia di sudore in ogni millimetro del corpo. </span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-ycEN4zlA8sQdJSKBeo3xI5ayc73Ssa0256P_IZhigM42IIu6hNu01vTv6Lru-ujZGEJu6mGBHz3vUrKiO-ZdoK-3R7r3_UO1Ax3ep4DdLCHIdNCyjNokSSaJbuREFhrWkUpp5719qmcxpQjcQUxOk_MrDD5j_rk-rMX7zL8Ej_LnKo4UrmpFzd61Mk/s1209/20230623_073620.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-ycEN4zlA8sQdJSKBeo3xI5ayc73Ssa0256P_IZhigM42IIu6hNu01vTv6Lru-ujZGEJu6mGBHz3vUrKiO-ZdoK-3R7r3_UO1Ax3ep4DdLCHIdNCyjNokSSaJbuREFhrWkUpp5719qmcxpQjcQUxOk_MrDD5j_rk-rMX7zL8Ej_LnKo4UrmpFzd61Mk/s320/20230623_073620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5lla1vh_wmVznyeATJwrPWt7FdkX2T0f9ds75Tg4r43-cR901tqetre0gRwDU_HgtJqKwqIAEDWCtT5evlHl4eIvM4Rb_JLs1wwUkYj8XTO7vffk1tE652uCGXfWGxcb4TL8emBUQ3h0uD89qG67uEl4RQdoOVFoUQ16SdmadHXVVtH8RUM1OUZIEak/s1209/20230623_094843.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5lla1vh_wmVznyeATJwrPWt7FdkX2T0f9ds75Tg4r43-cR901tqetre0gRwDU_HgtJqKwqIAEDWCtT5evlHl4eIvM4Rb_JLs1wwUkYj8XTO7vffk1tE652uCGXfWGxcb4TL8emBUQ3h0uD89qG67uEl4RQdoOVFoUQ16SdmadHXVVtH8RUM1OUZIEak/s320/20230623_094843.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;"><div style="text-align: justify;">Stamattina abbiamo diverse faccende da sbrigare. Innanzitutto, recuperare due SIM messicane. Poi comprare una maglia, un costume e quattro carabattole per ovviare al disguido dei bagagli. Ancora, prenotare l'escursione per domani: nuoto con gli squali balena e sulla barriera corallina! Riusciamo a far tutto muovendoci senza troppe difficoltà tra negozi e botteghine. Qui a Cancún non manca di certo l'offerta! Conosciamo tanti commercianti ciarlieri: una signora cubana e un ragazzo marocchino che vendono vestiti, un omone russo che si occupa di organizzare tour in collaborazione con il WWF... Tutti si incurioscono del nostro viaggio e la bici diventa innesco di conversazione. A mezzogiorno abbiamo concluso le faccende e possiamo finalmente dedicarci a un po' di turismo puro e semplice. Saltiamo su un bus (costo del biglietto: 0.6€) e ci facciamo portare lungo la sottile striscia di sabbia (un'isola, invero, collegata da due ponti) che abbraccia le lagune e affaccia all'oceano, la cosiddetta "zona hotelera".</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6KUaB69NMGGdF37Kwh6Jgjenlplxi8gVDk8epymnNoKhdQRLklma2-jbGRnvTgq8dUM8AKg57R2s32QcPxTpBNnR5SJKzlbRnRJDxngMvb7JFjbWaQjB-OFSa1aWcJVKeY_bdgfIuXQachmvydTSQ90DrsSGn0E8iqy7VMZ81hfdidhs2Y4W1bo6gP74/s1209/20230623_095457.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6KUaB69NMGGdF37Kwh6Jgjenlplxi8gVDk8epymnNoKhdQRLklma2-jbGRnvTgq8dUM8AKg57R2s32QcPxTpBNnR5SJKzlbRnRJDxngMvb7JFjbWaQjB-OFSa1aWcJVKeY_bdgfIuXQachmvydTSQ90DrsSGn0E8iqy7VMZ81hfdidhs2Y4W1bo6gP74/s320/20230623_095457.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64GS1GRpsVnhNF6RxnmtcxVyY-mxTX-88Ipyy3uKIGYMJfstDOGx0nasaey8SFZAC9Mk7SikqEyzt9nwJ3No3a6u0i5rItzNlhhLod677824Yay7CyIjcVtp4x3v1z11Sv9smbQ0eNlzixcI0qxD95F6mZkO574SJ4825Bump9huiAhVEkfi57lsvlg4/s1209/20230623_133847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64GS1GRpsVnhNF6RxnmtcxVyY-mxTX-88Ipyy3uKIGYMJfstDOGx0nasaey8SFZAC9Mk7SikqEyzt9nwJ3No3a6u0i5rItzNlhhLod677824Yay7CyIjcVtp4x3v1z11Sv9smbQ0eNlzixcI0qxD95F6mZkO574SJ4825Bump9huiAhVEkfi57lsvlg4/s320/20230623_133847.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">La prima cosa che mi affascina è l'intrico di mangrovie che costeggia la strada e fa da muro tra terra e acqua. La seconda: i cartelli che segnalano il pericolo dei coccodrilli. Solo al terzo punto giungono i mega alberghi, i complessi residenziali e gli ecomostri che, a partire dagli anni '70 sono stati costruiti, sempre più grandi, sempre più alti, sempre più ipertrofici. Così se non hai abbastanza dinero da salire lassù nemmeno vedi più il mare. Brutta storia! Me ne parliamo tra un attimo. Scendiamo a El Rey, dove si trova una zona archeologica con resti maya che risalgono al 1200-1500. In effetti siamo qui per visitare il Museo maya e l'adiacente sito di san Miguelito. Questi antichi insediamenti erano dediti a pesca e commercio, e ci hanno lasciato reperti, abitazioni, templi e piattaforme cerimoniali che, uniti al panorama circostante spettacolare, meritano una visita. Il caldo umido rende tutto molto impegnativo, ma ci si muove tra rovine immerse nel verde e spiagge bianchissime di sabbia corallina impalpabile, che contrasta con le sfumature blu, verdi e azzurre dell'oceano. Questo è il Mar dei caraibi, che già solo dal nome evoca storie di pirati e avventurieri, missioni sanguinarie, oro a tonnellate caricato su galeoni grandi come palazzi.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kHsYpkshyQ04ovoE_0NC4k9JKgg4mTvEvt1q1CUUb1Qeb3tZh0Arzjg5As_SVtPjzAiXANX8IiSrbOfSUkLcuYwBlCdbzmh-byZRQDGOi9InJ8OoH0-zrnZhBbdJ11mZnr6aowQs0z68ws7bW1cuWVmxlq4FvXU1sEi8oOKEj9LXBY5K5cGgJd3y9eQ/s1209/20230623_134032.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-kHsYpkshyQ04ovoE_0NC4k9JKgg4mTvEvt1q1CUUb1Qeb3tZh0Arzjg5As_SVtPjzAiXANX8IiSrbOfSUkLcuYwBlCdbzmh-byZRQDGOi9InJ8OoH0-zrnZhBbdJ11mZnr6aowQs0z68ws7bW1cuWVmxlq4FvXU1sEi8oOKEj9LXBY5K5cGgJd3y9eQ/s320/20230623_134032.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPvCt5Nl1xCPe46D6LwUvc6oBJ01aTuVlImlc3iCX61nKQHlsEPUSzAcxmF0GRBiiNVCAL5QQbE9AK7foNtcc4GLZBljPDb_Essu1Gk2q1OLo8wfJG5EiNcgmXnD0uxIo6sUt7GG8JqY7B52KLsYJW_HvkGsFGPj2jqbcKkABlOhFIWhKn-wgqh78MS8/s1209/20230623_134528.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPvCt5Nl1xCPe46D6LwUvc6oBJ01aTuVlImlc3iCX61nKQHlsEPUSzAcxmF0GRBiiNVCAL5QQbE9AK7foNtcc4GLZBljPDb_Essu1Gk2q1OLo8wfJG5EiNcgmXnD0uxIo6sUt7GG8JqY7B52KLsYJW_HvkGsFGPj2jqbcKkABlOhFIWhKn-wgqh78MS8/s320/20230623_134528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Altra novità che mi cattura sono le iguane. Non le avevo mai viste e passo decisamente troppo tempo ad ammirarle e fotografarle. Loro lasciano fare, con quel piglio da dinosauro in miniatura, quelle crestine punk e quei gargarozzi imponenti. Sono bellissime! Soprattutto quando si mettono in posa sulle rovine... Chissà se le paga l'ente turismo, in dollari US.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcYrHbE0AlhOLLu09gRQYmdGmjjjh9urlgEm5e7UXmstmR0gGY_kVr9LLyAoavsvdL-GQsTc-86v1GVy6RHubDZ8RngP5WvgPWpew6546-9RF8M8DPh-rDQ6gBdYC0HHI1OAYSwG3u_Tw-m6_8wvT1yIeynaNQFE-wZhkr3ygnQTHIxnGm3LPaMo7bPE/s1209/20230623_135204.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcYrHbE0AlhOLLu09gRQYmdGmjjjh9urlgEm5e7UXmstmR0gGY_kVr9LLyAoavsvdL-GQsTc-86v1GVy6RHubDZ8RngP5WvgPWpew6546-9RF8M8DPh-rDQ6gBdYC0HHI1OAYSwG3u_Tw-m6_8wvT1yIeynaNQFE-wZhkr3ygnQTHIxnGm3LPaMo7bPE/s320/20230623_135204.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoj99mtkc1W14SRrGwvjACD7x_B5a5QN7vKjN3kIvhw0wZsq0aFMT8DbFowxOaL5ZF16BHPILM7l4oc_6XHkJ-8Vpd8XRtUEMwxS0eYw__9Ic7wyxNOD2lwnRGQuh-0zlsKeZ_0rmTGMoVB1_r00Ezcg-OykILLrL9_aUecTmd4Rdtu8IcaT8puA0ewKc/s1209/20230623_140255.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoj99mtkc1W14SRrGwvjACD7x_B5a5QN7vKjN3kIvhw0wZsq0aFMT8DbFowxOaL5ZF16BHPILM7l4oc_6XHkJ-8Vpd8XRtUEMwxS0eYw__9Ic7wyxNOD2lwnRGQuh-0zlsKeZ_0rmTGMoVB1_r00Ezcg-OykILLrL9_aUecTmd4Rdtu8IcaT8puA0ewKc/s320/20230623_140255.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pZYFWMBrBaTmPQk7wNeu0B9EgeTw0bxxTUHfjvDnPbc0HjR6R9RqF2_d6DdF7HQZanLxT92ZHL8kGJDhcD0l164qulFreveBvtsWvyf3TrU2Gj0pyMYqQNVSlK20OD_fE4YUctW40jntVByALCVvsZsGQ8iKieDAKVxz4pbttvyQbgsqyLnYmEPWvcs/s1209/20230623_140924.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pZYFWMBrBaTmPQk7wNeu0B9EgeTw0bxxTUHfjvDnPbc0HjR6R9RqF2_d6DdF7HQZanLxT92ZHL8kGJDhcD0l164qulFreveBvtsWvyf3TrU2Gj0pyMYqQNVSlK20OD_fE4YUctW40jntVByALCVvsZsGQ8iKieDAKVxz4pbttvyQbgsqyLnYmEPWvcs/s320/20230623_140924.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSbkoxDalsYWlAzJC8fs7dNnkqxQjCHD-pxPXy9D3Arw-eCUeO9lsSA9Nn3JnIMz5_fCxiwup51mOfCZxLvKyGw6ENU4urSr2DLo5XA6LzGbyxJ1vbbkT5klGQIhpyVjMxv4MOl6lQSYimE6Qo6WbnNy2ZxGMdyG7o8R3B6C5QLahl7uI4kSPqPV4Q1RE/s1209/20230623_141224.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSbkoxDalsYWlAzJC8fs7dNnkqxQjCHD-pxPXy9D3Arw-eCUeO9lsSA9Nn3JnIMz5_fCxiwup51mOfCZxLvKyGw6ENU4urSr2DLo5XA6LzGbyxJ1vbbkT5klGQIhpyVjMxv4MOl6lQSYimE6Qo6WbnNy2ZxGMdyG7o8R3B6C5QLahl7uI4kSPqPV4Q1RE/s320/20230623_141224.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Qui alcuni scatti dei reperti più interessanti, dagli incensieri alle statuette votive, dalle coppe alle decorazioni architettoniche... Senza contare i vetri antiuragano, dopo che il precedente museo è stato distrutto dai tifoni. Molti tratti di queste opere d'arte mi ricordano quelli visti lo scorso anno in Perù, sia delle culture preincaiche sia Inca. La cosa che mi colpisce, però, è che i maya avevano sviluppato la scrittura, per quanto non lo ruota. E' incredibile pensare che guardassero molto più al cielo che alla terra.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo3KTGYdJMy7ESrGUDSXcSdnyRpsa_Yj25zPtgIM_yE210VMAYPuw-bpbuTXMZfnplnPMLt5Wp0rll5woMkH4GE6z4-4Muldt_4mvlwSLcyO9s8FMVV1U2mB-MgAvGeHGu_RV-4hjglRXf6K3E3Sy4Y8EiO_G7wpNhePwlIGnomhbvTscbc8_VqWIe7_M/s1209/20230623_142451.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo3KTGYdJMy7ESrGUDSXcSdnyRpsa_Yj25zPtgIM_yE210VMAYPuw-bpbuTXMZfnplnPMLt5Wp0rll5woMkH4GE6z4-4Muldt_4mvlwSLcyO9s8FMVV1U2mB-MgAvGeHGu_RV-4hjglRXf6K3E3Sy4Y8EiO_G7wpNhePwlIGnomhbvTscbc8_VqWIe7_M/s320/20230623_142451.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbN4Nls_ppcELbfr_BwnVPTEo91UKB-xPYJX-s-TITigieNK_NP1InllTylSqTfhEMq8uXvrqCOlveprajYpEW4WPedYpyUcgTUWeOVHpdUlIsJg1PCKCuTkOIby6WBdA5weZl2f1NpHma3qC3iZA8U1Z4XbTuulH5V1kOeTecm9RiWXNWVly4eq_s5Qw/s1209/20230623_142611.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_M2YmKN_D2vVOyDvDc4KrOohlmiWXYGTeTmpAlHtiZ5uX5cTfYkw7R4igWCp-2h0hQ7nmYS_fs34ooVM8ixTsayn-3U5B-DYwAUCBWo_FG3q-xRV1yHFg4ikruGFc2mlsWhSVxsXUqrLzxcTjFZwrLNeuwaJBR_WSMpCe7qXXqf_n9xjgnRubGMx_tjU/s320/20230623_154200.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Dopo aver visitato il museo, che contiene pezzi di ineffabile fascino, ci concediamo un gelato Gigi e della frutta secca piccante io. Poi proseguiamo fino alla spiaggia di San Miguelito, dove scendiamo a piedi nulla nella sabbia finissima e facciamo un primo assaggio d'acqua. È meravigliosamente tiepida, con piccole onde e colori smeraldini prima e blu profondi poi. Il vento spettina le nubi e il cielo cambia di continuo sfumature, in una luce di miele liquido, già un po' obliqua, ma comunque affilata come una lama d'ossidiana. Quante ne ha viste di cose, questa terra. Non riesco a togliermi dalla mente il pensiero di quegli uomini che, nel Cinquecento, si imbarcavano verso l'ignoto e affrontavano la paura più grande di tutte, la più umana: quella del non sapere cosa ci aspetta. E immagino pure lo stupore, il terrore e la curiosità reciproca tra indigeni e conquistadores. Come sia andata a finire questa vicenda, ahimè, lo sappiamo tutti. Mentre lascio correre i pensieri, con lo sguardo che setaccia la battigia in cerca di conchiglie, mi rendo conto di come la storia abbia lasciato solchi profondi anche nella quotidianità delle persone. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpfKAnutwS6QfeirHPkPGH9fIHi6DkDSdS2I5AyLnI52aFbSUKmh3QqhoSfU_l0t8-THETMGmpHY3CE2QVkwdS9IF3xfnjQvrrdIgO0fSw3kMKmoJSPRl-v21uRgHIIOAcmbnuMs4s6dqsU-SRwS9MstqUBbskuTBtx1UnPic2YvMpC_9g4V_44Xlwag/s1209/20230623_172535.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpfKAnutwS6QfeirHPkPGH9fIHi6DkDSdS2I5AyLnI52aFbSUKmh3QqhoSfU_l0t8-THETMGmpHY3CE2QVkwdS9IF3xfnjQvrrdIgO0fSw3kMKmoJSPRl-v21uRgHIIOAcmbnuMs4s6dqsU-SRwS9MstqUBbskuTBtx1UnPic2YvMpC_9g4V_44Xlwag/s320/20230623_172535.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Certo, nel XVI secolo ci vollero diversi decenni prima che gli europei riconoscessero come umani gli indios (i quali, invece, avevano capito ben prima, ma sempre troppo tardi, che quei bianchi barbuti giunti a cavallo dal mare non erano dei). Ma ancora oggi c'è una linea molto, molto marcata tra la zona dei privilegiati e quella di chi invece può solo sognare, invidiare o combattere per una società diversa. Qui a Cancún la linea separa quella che definirei una sorta di exclave statunitense dal resto. Qui ci sono resort, campi da golf immensi, cliniche private, strade senza buche, locali raffinati e centri commerciali di lusso. Qui ci sono persino i supermercati degli States, da Walmart al 7/11 al Circle K, i dollari americani sono accettati e le finestre affacciano tutte sulle spiagge più immacolate. Dall'altra parte ci sono negozietti con le inferriate sempre chiuse, dove i commercianti vendono attraverso le sbarre per evitare rapine, strade scassate e caotiche, qualche cane randagio, qualche mendicante, molti ambulanti e persone che si arrangiano vendendo minutaglia agli incroci. Da questa parte il mare non si vede, se non giù al porto, nella caligine mista a polvere, umidità e smog. Da questa parte i bimbi, la sera, schiamazzano correndo in mutande per strada, insieme ai randagi, o vendono braccialetti ai turisti. Dall'altra parte i loro coetanei fanno scuola vela o prendono lezioni di golf nei resort. Da una parte ci sono la ricchezza e i privilegi che derivano dall'essere nati nella parte fortunata del mondo. Dall'altra queste cose non ci sono. Il colonialismo e le discriminazioni qui si toccano con mano, e lo vediamo bene anche solo transitando tra il centro, la zona hotelera e il quartiere dove siamo noi (Puerto Juarez), che non è malfamato ma nemmeno la perla più candida. E vedremo, in periferia, sempre più degrado e abitazioni che son vere e proprie capanne. Pare che il toponimo derivi dalla lingua maya e significhi "covo di serpenti". E ce n'è, ma non sono piumati come Quetzalcoatl. Sono verdi e hanno la faccia di Washington stampata sopra.</div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Questo non stupisce, in generale e soprattutto nel particolare. Fino al 1970 qui non c'era nulla, se non paludi, mangrovie, selva vergine e spiagge inesplorate. Poi, però, tramite l'AI dell'epoca, quest'area è stata scelta per la costruzione di un progetto turistico pianificato in ogni dettaglio. E chi ha portato il denaro? Chi ha plasmato i desideri, le aspirazioni, il modo di vivere che si ha o si invidia? Chi ha il potere, chi deve subirlo?</div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Così è, e basta un giorno da queste parti per rendersene conto. Non sorprende poi che alcuni, qui, abbiano imparato a truffare, a mentire, a rubare ai gringos imbecilli e idioti in senso letterale, cioè capaci di pensare solo al proprio ombelico. Loro sono stati, infatti, i primi a illudere, deprivare, appropriarsi.</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYAGWxZZCywgvfw2Fr4mFdPl0m0WJiXsOK31CpD6_9MtV_pR5Ya44Twpw-0NJeSaMlGAvAtMZ2YRb7lIoCWt1udcI9yVMjA_eNad6jp4i8qAD57XK5QnAI6sED9n_AVabjDM5afcjedevsZyDmrvHH1hV7Z0K3MuznsdeLwUeKlOm0uoXIH4xklo1J4g/s1209/20230623_172543.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYAGWxZZCywgvfw2Fr4mFdPl0m0WJiXsOK31CpD6_9MtV_pR5Ya44Twpw-0NJeSaMlGAvAtMZ2YRb7lIoCWt1udcI9yVMjA_eNad6jp4i8qAD57XK5QnAI6sED9n_AVabjDM5afcjedevsZyDmrvHH1hV7Z0K3MuznsdeLwUeKlOm0uoXIH4xklo1J4g/s320/20230623_172543.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Il sole inizia a calare e noi lasciamo la spiaggia, dove, nel frattempo, si sono radunate diverse persone per non una, ben due proposte di matrimonio con gazebo, candele e rose piantate nella sabbia.</div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Camminiamo ancora un po', trascinando i piedi cotti come cotechini (in totale abbiamo sfiorato i 20km), e incappiamo in una sorta di fiera di biciclette di marca, abbigliamento tecnico e amenità. Chiediamo a un addetto e ci spiega che domenica si correrà una tappa del Tour de France amatoriale (ah, esiste?) e loro sono la carovana. Il brav'uomo ci racconta che è stato un professionista, tanti anni fa, e ha corso anche in Italia, sul Lago di Como e a Bergamo. Siccome siamo entrati in confidenza, buttiamo lì una richiesta che da ieri ci divora: "Ha mica gli adattatori per le valvole?". Il busillis è questo: noi abbiamo 3 copertoni su 4 con le valvole Presta, quelle classiche da bici, ma qui tutti montano pezzi con valvola Schrader, identica a quella delle auto. La comodità? Queste ultime si posso gonfiare con il compressore dal benzinaio. Noi bramiamo un adattatore, perché abbiamo dimenticato a casa i nostri. E... basta chiedere! Il brav'uomo ne recupera un paio per 1€ siamo a posto.</div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0WPZGOfxy4zERIFPJrKcEcI-6gQ_Ns4-65CQ6GQesOy5m-xeupafb0nt4jQda86BRtYfDIRADHQIFkpfvxr0qxznz5zF2WLREcSq0ZvyMKstwVDnMrkbVSRoJm4be3xvwlWOMf0BXWkrscW1JqdW2oCeDnKdjSp9yibc0QVFGsI_0rFsCMxI4b5afKxw/s1209/20230623_181441.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0WPZGOfxy4zERIFPJrKcEcI-6gQ_Ns4-65CQ6GQesOy5m-xeupafb0nt4jQda86BRtYfDIRADHQIFkpfvxr0qxznz5zF2WLREcSq0ZvyMKstwVDnMrkbVSRoJm4be3xvwlWOMf0BXWkrscW1JqdW2oCeDnKdjSp9yibc0QVFGsI_0rFsCMxI4b5afKxw/s320/20230623_181441.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxA12EaN97Pu3xvDNBHOndyCoZXOcBUI_IwbpQ3O1g60YhCqOJoensUTKUSPo-wcGLBN9hd2GOWSCU-tUBuUcJLGbyL3QMTR5qkS_ujRLlPBGZ5la73HaHfV4IvkWpm6VLgx2bQFGTx2fQF9Hf8lUNwxwfOlbi9IBvvfP8xQOiYe8ZyYzWBUQVaAH7Wt0/s1209/20230623_181924.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxA12EaN97Pu3xvDNBHOndyCoZXOcBUI_IwbpQ3O1g60YhCqOJoensUTKUSPo-wcGLBN9hd2GOWSCU-tUBuUcJLGbyL3QMTR5qkS_ujRLlPBGZ5la73HaHfV4IvkWpm6VLgx2bQFGTx2fQF9Hf8lUNwxwfOlbi9IBvvfP8xQOiYe8ZyYzWBUQVaAH7Wt0/s320/20230623_181924.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la cupola dell'ingresso di un centro commerciale</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Soddisfatti e felici, torniamo verso l'hotel e, per via, ci fermiamo a cena per il nostro primo autentico assaggio di cucina messicana. Dobbiamo ancora imparare molte cose ma la bontà dei tacos e delle insalate con frutta tropicale si spiega da sola. Rientrando, noto che ci sono alcune chiese cattoliche e molte evangeliste; queste sembrano banche, o uffici, e hanno la guardia giurata all'ingresso. Amen. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOSEMvQuNl2qeRyrFEdEfF7grDcO-tg-AEyCTWiJ9NMPkMyjStpq51R3iUYYlPDcXqP9fT9HOC1SGnIiZUDRhoJtrShGKfQdzMpNSXLKCDxq8YRvi0mEXNxeFdzWnMZoHyms8UqXB8CCxub3AlqimZYCZx2B-PnIqoQb41OOjMestDW-pwEH1lIwgJm2w/s1209/20230623_201815.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOSEMvQuNl2qeRyrFEdEfF7grDcO-tg-AEyCTWiJ9NMPkMyjStpq51R3iUYYlPDcXqP9fT9HOC1SGnIiZUDRhoJtrShGKfQdzMpNSXLKCDxq8YRvi0mEXNxeFdzWnMZoHyms8UqXB8CCxub3AlqimZYCZx2B-PnIqoQb41OOjMestDW-pwEH1lIwgJm2w/s320/20230623_201815.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>24/6</div><div>Cancun - Isla Mujeres</div><div><br /></div><div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Oggi è il giorno del mare. Degli squali balena. Dei coralli e della sabbia. Abbiamo prenotato un'escursione, ieri, e ci attendono al porto alle 7.30. Andiamo a piedi per esplorare anche questo quartiere "malfamato". In realtà è solo un po' sporco e caotico, ma tutti hanno ben altri pensieri che badare a noi, unici stranieri in zona. C'è chi vende hamburger, pane, ciambelle o caramelle in baracchini più o meno ambulanti, chi aspetta il bus, chi aspetta un miracolo. Passa persino un risciò tutto coperto di cartelloni che dicono che l'apocalisse è vicina e bisogna pentirsi. C'è molta musica, molto forte, per sovrastare il rumore dei motori e quello della tristezza.</div><div dir="auto" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Arriviamo all'imbarcadero, ma tutto è in gran ritardo, come di norma.</div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0FTfu_hI1ma_LJFNXdUk4MgsFc8EbMgn4ItS0SC8S8vjIZMQjwRgPVOIFTgf2rXGxvoMzwe_j18S6NGllx5ELJ9oNXCtN--8RPtCYouZjvxfLaSfrGrqBV8aegidMcKuo9muYuuF0bHNo-ZsfyaD23mU7xp-R2xzeEQWxcE4P4NQBxon3R7RORVb_0Tc/s1209/20230624_073745.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0FTfu_hI1ma_LJFNXdUk4MgsFc8EbMgn4ItS0SC8S8vjIZMQjwRgPVOIFTgf2rXGxvoMzwe_j18S6NGllx5ELJ9oNXCtN--8RPtCYouZjvxfLaSfrGrqBV8aegidMcKuo9muYuuF0bHNo-ZsfyaD23mU7xp-R2xzeEQWxcE4P4NQBxon3R7RORVb_0Tc/s320/20230624_073745.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2rJVaaCTto4Y8QGMdZfPuvh5pdPBSuhKbOk3kTl46MXnnJ2AlWgM3qrtl3HULBfclOmo46Pp-Uaujrm-MPO3mEbVwRjBFENHEr9cBj5A7_qf45MuUqKy8Tv9YyRuxPLQqfmYd2sp0eaIire5T2oA2OclLLpxvoY0eg3_x6Pe7bbGmdqQagcqRfDOfnY/s1209/20230624_080844.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2rJVaaCTto4Y8QGMdZfPuvh5pdPBSuhKbOk3kTl46MXnnJ2AlWgM3qrtl3HULBfclOmo46Pp-Uaujrm-MPO3mEbVwRjBFENHEr9cBj5A7_qf45MuUqKy8Tv9YyRuxPLQqfmYd2sp0eaIire5T2oA2OclLLpxvoY0eg3_x6Pe7bbGmdqQagcqRfDOfnY/s320/20230624_080844.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;">Partiremo effettivamente due ore più tardi, dopo un passaggio in auto, una colazione offerta, una dettagliata spiegazione dell'attività. Con noi ci sono altre 8 persone, per lo più canadesi tra i 30 e i 40 anni. Due coppie e un gruppo di amici. Partiamo. Per raggiungere il luogo di pascolo degli squali balena navighiamo verso il largo per un paio d'ore su un motoscafo agile che salta sulle onde oceaniche. Perdiamo di vista la costa, ora siamo soli tra acqua e cielo. Il capitano ci chiama: tartaruga! Ed eccola lì, placida, che nuota in superficie. Che spettacolo! Non ne avevo mai vista una così grande. Qui tutto è meraviglia. Dalla luce che ride sul pelo dell'acqua alle creature che abitano le buie profondità. Inizio a chiedermi se avrò il coraggio di tuffarmi, da sola (Gigi non ha un grande rapporto con l'acqua), da una barca in corsa, per nuotare con i pesci più grandi del mondo, 10 metri per 15 tonnellate di bestia. E quali altri animali potrebbero esserci? Avvistiamo una manta enorme, ed è già una risposta.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSpQVsJRG4jeYMKIPt-Ct6Uqqu2sOXwlGbIw-2vZpyL1gnLFarfctZiIPXSXC25VlZGkCeiveYM8Vbyl26o2wKg-H3BwJWj-wnqA8H6D2O9ZvYoyixSWzF9GCV5BMfiOfm6Eq_NW3ZWRkS6b8n_l-2wC6BD4Z-zpScrlhz193guv82nJVrb-JBZU2_Us/s989/20230624_090321.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="989" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSpQVsJRG4jeYMKIPt-Ct6Uqqu2sOXwlGbIw-2vZpyL1gnLFarfctZiIPXSXC25VlZGkCeiveYM8Vbyl26o2wKg-H3BwJWj-wnqA8H6D2O9ZvYoyixSWzF9GCV5BMfiOfm6Eq_NW3ZWRkS6b8n_l-2wC6BD4Z-zpScrlhz193guv82nJVrb-JBZU2_Us/s320/20230624_090321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg06TcObu1r4i-7bqdkIfZEN4Wf-ATeteCDT6x4tKwWXX9IDRpKfG5G6EgZlfVw1706QgRflV_rIBYKhXmiPITVhLNMeCbHAAN8FQQ6-6V7v3clypkocjzJtIxRZ9mfaEYCgj84CzypZuBOcIhj9Q7g7jgK6MFzyi7q8rR_kSfIMY8NHfttGs_cHWxHBg0/s1209/20230624_090334.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg06TcObu1r4i-7bqdkIfZEN4Wf-ATeteCDT6x4tKwWXX9IDRpKfG5G6EgZlfVw1706QgRflV_rIBYKhXmiPITVhLNMeCbHAAN8FQQ6-6V7v3clypkocjzJtIxRZ9mfaEYCgj84CzypZuBOcIhj9Q7g7jgK6MFzyi7q8rR_kSfIMY8NHfttGs_cHWxHBg0/s320/20230624_090334.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDjcLLURkP_EaST8on71jR70eDjdoQpiHEkjsP21mzwaroPXhNkCcQPeVfFwPC-ICyQ9TZgNHFkd1wq9eWERjcYZmRRBE7r8IwvzG04wsDPvRIh4re1QjEugDjECYGtWNaAbmZx2U8Q1ta1abZxEIvmNXqxMOmV3OlYQgi0yWi9kDCAyfkoIfZZkkewOU/s989/20230624_092639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="989" data-original-width="456" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDjcLLURkP_EaST8on71jR70eDjdoQpiHEkjsP21mzwaroPXhNkCcQPeVfFwPC-ICyQ9TZgNHFkd1wq9eWERjcYZmRRBE7r8IwvzG04wsDPvRIh4re1QjEugDjECYGtWNaAbmZx2U8Q1ta1abZxEIvmNXqxMOmV3OlYQgi0yWi9kDCAyfkoIfZZkkewOU/s320/20230624_092639.jpg" width="148" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Non faccio in tempo a rispondere e la barca rallenta. Eccoli là. Sono due. Si vedono le pinne dorsali e la punta della coda, unite da un'ombra scura che pare troppo grande per essere vera. Adelante! Adelante! Indosso maschera e pinne e in un attimo sono in acqua (che è tiepida anche qui al largo). La guida mi indica verso dove nuotare e quel che accade dopo è magia. Non pare vero. Sembra di stare un documentario. A nemmeno un metro da me nuota una creatura gigantesca, grande come un pullman grande, che pare di gomma. Non fa corrente, è silenzioso. Vedo la pelle scura con i suoi pallini bianchi (infatti viene anche chiamato "domino" qui). Vedo le branche enormi, e i pesci pulitori attaccati al mastodontico corpo. La bocca è un forno, un tubo, una voragine, ma innocua: mangia solo plancton. Gli occhietti, invece, sono minuscoli e mi fissano a lungo, senza alcuna espressione. Chissà che pensa di noi questo gigante, se gli diamo fastidio, se nemmeno si accorge della nostra presenza. Dopo ben due immersioni, entrambe fantastiche, viene il momento di rientrare.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRWzgJuHdPPK5CeRAFftVpdHsTs2jz_1CtPPCyNF8-lJZsWMhNAxbblyq_TuwKzU3cXiIlJ2LGipxKFaeG6RYyLY3tTNlq5V784jHe_rLFS0VRTYXgiA28P00EEr3fz66Dk_Qrsq_mm_5FU-zkSnk5bVOjeri0_fLLu2uZByFszXcmtnJ6BZAyVi7wpg/s1600/IMG-20230624-WA0013.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRWzgJuHdPPK5CeRAFftVpdHsTs2jz_1CtPPCyNF8-lJZsWMhNAxbblyq_TuwKzU3cXiIlJ2LGipxKFaeG6RYyLY3tTNlq5V784jHe_rLFS0VRTYXgiA28P00EEr3fz66Dk_Qrsq_mm_5FU-zkSnk5bVOjeri0_fLLu2uZByFszXcmtnJ6BZAyVi7wpg/s320/IMG-20230624-WA0013.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgs0pfHtvPOMvo-EpfXDO2FYdJ6BGAV9OThB7eXGTgC8ZMB8HVfsHXNEEPXs1gqFPEoQ8fUIYGDcrJBkE8DO97pVC_NVP8vqyf74hHJSlYvXk9nHPSijlu6o3_XlvPrVI7-iW_qeizFYel0mHxA6LOIUzKeaPt1h_EbqL2t25LbUI_nv3MnXPqyPHbEk/s1600/IMG-20230624-WA0014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgs0pfHtvPOMvo-EpfXDO2FYdJ6BGAV9OThB7eXGTgC8ZMB8HVfsHXNEEPXs1gqFPEoQ8fUIYGDcrJBkE8DO97pVC_NVP8vqyf74hHJSlYvXk9nHPSijlu6o3_XlvPrVI7-iW_qeizFYel0mHxA6LOIUzKeaPt1h_EbqL2t25LbUI_nv3MnXPqyPHbEk/s320/IMG-20230624-WA0014.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYCVhTsA5BxMeXxTLdwoq4Rw1HPH956H4So1INtqSMJVkPNfDHr3ASMBHsucgrI0-9tpdtXLGJFtx7Fn8dX4CgLmxXV34qMRBq3lSzXK0OR5yX1vzh6ez3eoWUgsn7YxhFIu109c4Ta7zRlLxZGW7yyKlsMrq-dtR8-lEdZkCjU5JQ5QVB9IoKfT-zP3E/s1600/IMG-20230624-WA0015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYCVhTsA5BxMeXxTLdwoq4Rw1HPH956H4So1INtqSMJVkPNfDHr3ASMBHsucgrI0-9tpdtXLGJFtx7Fn8dX4CgLmxXV34qMRBq3lSzXK0OR5yX1vzh6ez3eoWUgsn7YxhFIu109c4Ta7zRlLxZGW7yyKlsMrq-dtR8-lEdZkCjU5JQ5QVB9IoKfT-zP3E/s320/IMG-20230624-WA0015.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywPRXWZrTo6GxSb8zuTD7r8WF691PcvNbWBI3cqaE4qjsjQI8pahuRoc8AGO1YwvgnQHP6j55yMOuEbxTxTvMascHZ_fhj36SHQ5WtuwbP5XHvOy39iBLY-105O0nomJLZb0qhdsxoZTAx_RKP-72f_QHQJsAjdADkWhnxhZLiilvNt3FRWERicHwgIk/s1600/IMG-20230624-WA0031.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="851" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywPRXWZrTo6GxSb8zuTD7r8WF691PcvNbWBI3cqaE4qjsjQI8pahuRoc8AGO1YwvgnQHP6j55yMOuEbxTxTvMascHZ_fhj36SHQ5WtuwbP5XHvOy39iBLY-105O0nomJLZb0qhdsxoZTAx_RKP-72f_QHQJsAjdADkWhnxhZLiilvNt3FRWERicHwgIk/s320/IMG-20230624-WA0031.jpg" width="170" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9B_HKa6mGDMeEMynsn2iHHNHuVomuw6eS7n2UW7G3U693qLpXmM3PEADWS9-rJSzcz9BjQliCG_YHZ_BRg8arRGZsDnXMXU4fXbfO4sltqBxhcqpGlc6TuK9cN6yuh3YwRmTGNnjlfO6IdsFxcRrdq0dedxS5QhNBEGtvoJtmPHpEug-cTpRCM0fGgOY/s1600/IMG-20230624-WA0021.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9B_HKa6mGDMeEMynsn2iHHNHuVomuw6eS7n2UW7G3U693qLpXmM3PEADWS9-rJSzcz9BjQliCG_YHZ_BRg8arRGZsDnXMXU4fXbfO4sltqBxhcqpGlc6TuK9cN6yuh3YwRmTGNnjlfO6IdsFxcRrdq0dedxS5QhNBEGtvoJtmPHpEug-cTpRCM0fGgOY/s320/IMG-20230624-WA0021.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Ma prima facciamo tappa a Isla Mujeres, lembo di terra privo di auto che si trova a breve distanza da Cancún. Qui ci sono alcune rovine maya dedicate alla dea della luna e della fertilità Ixchel, distrutte da uragani e tifoni, una tortugranja, cioè un centro di tutela delle tartarughe marine e, soprattutto, spiagge di sabbia corallina acque turchesi e caldissime. Ci fermiamo a Playa norte e non vorremmo più venir via. Luoghi del genere li ho visti solo in foto. Siamo in una cartolina, in un cartellone pubblicitario da agenzia turistica. Potrei stare qui in ammollo fino a sciogliermi. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Sjwxl9jx6UwH3kCxowwzbqtEbGzR2Jv8bdw0nTlSAtXVoFSy4TXUJpyLeAjBdaVxcdVr2b9t8ai0SUDKLdG-ai4okcONlBZItLJgPpvKixvt9-9EEXG3A0SepxAdKUoqLgXinl_YVetdlMj68bTrvV5X6LYNFIM0Y23PBWsrI9eS2Cf20FNzRtpN-tQ/s1209/20230624_130847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Sjwxl9jx6UwH3kCxowwzbqtEbGzR2Jv8bdw0nTlSAtXVoFSy4TXUJpyLeAjBdaVxcdVr2b9t8ai0SUDKLdG-ai4okcONlBZItLJgPpvKixvt9-9EEXG3A0SepxAdKUoqLgXinl_YVetdlMj68bTrvV5X6LYNFIM0Y23PBWsrI9eS2Cf20FNzRtpN-tQ/s320/20230624_130847.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOauwRFExfmU5BM9WfqUy7WdfyezyI9N8QltjtVErOMGBwqRtBF4uvWvwMfyWvftKRz8BxZ6PrrUR0iox2aC630RlLsmcdtngabZv76qwiayQq2oLuVzg15nIHt41cx3X3isyBHeO3TPJmY683UbEiDEc_fO1idMaQ7Wvd5pTuxEV43faYZC_y2Yojq3M/s1209/20230624_131818.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOauwRFExfmU5BM9WfqUy7WdfyezyI9N8QltjtVErOMGBwqRtBF4uvWvwMfyWvftKRz8BxZ6PrrUR0iox2aC630RlLsmcdtngabZv76qwiayQq2oLuVzg15nIHt41cx3X3isyBHeO3TPJmY683UbEiDEc_fO1idMaQ7Wvd5pTuxEV43faYZC_y2Yojq3M/s320/20230624_131818.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Q4zl9r9MKGgpj-qZWF2RXSjWI_pZFLl7z4E6IoXwrCQ0gUHm2OBWTpHZoNqZ4f5tj8VPpenhB03er76q0l2HJWJXUKGBHXx9tvKN8NpdTMJqnUjSihprNm0bhasGSctoAsg5oBgtYPnBWiyhB3YCYPHsUirywM7e7mHWXcTlHXuoUfsZieP51n9mJdE/s1008/20230624_132936.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="746" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Q4zl9r9MKGgpj-qZWF2RXSjWI_pZFLl7z4E6IoXwrCQ0gUHm2OBWTpHZoNqZ4f5tj8VPpenhB03er76q0l2HJWJXUKGBHXx9tvKN8NpdTMJqnUjSihprNm0bhasGSctoAsg5oBgtYPnBWiyhB3YCYPHsUirywM7e7mHWXcTlHXuoUfsZieP51n9mJdE/s320/20230624_132936.jpg" width="237" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small; text-align: start;">Ma il capitano ci richiama: ha preparato un ceviche freschissimo con nachos. Mangiamo questa prelibatezza circondati da lembi di paradiso ma poi tocca tornare, e di corsa! Il cielo si è fatto cupo in pochi attimi e si è alzato il vento. La tempesta incombe, con nuvoloni neri alti da cielo a terra, come colonne ciclopiche. Torniamo al porto, ringraziamo e ci buttiamo sul primo combis (minibus su cui ci stanno, inspiegabilmente, tantissime persone, come i clown nelle Cinquecentesche) che porta al centro, mentre inizia a piovigginare. Scopriamo che Gigi, nei combis, non ci sta fisicamente, è troppo alto! Siccome la pioggia, alla fine, è durata solo qualche minuto, decidiamo di fare un giro al parco Las Palapas, famoso per i suoi churros. Nel frattempo giungono buone notizie dall'aeroporto: bici e bagagli arriveranno stasera intorno alle 23. Possiamo quindi ripartire già domani in tarda mattinata, dopo aver montato tutto, per una mezza tappa sui 50-70km: la Riviera Maya ci attende.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQ7Bb6iIJeqQFvN_sGp2KsmAvotBxDZMShLa99CH9pLGOhtCmXXQpxrXs4duRskRFCn9_WdCMvkyRbW8tfmrtUblfI-arNhsxAFOWJd2bJ2GVXh1HeZCpiUfp6Lw_zT4wtXHQFaOldNe2HOwosLXezed90Vv6pj_H0LtQ7Yky7DzzknJG9oWsTAV4rz4/s1209/20230624_144640.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQ7Bb6iIJeqQFvN_sGp2KsmAvotBxDZMShLa99CH9pLGOhtCmXXQpxrXs4duRskRFCn9_WdCMvkyRbW8tfmrtUblfI-arNhsxAFOWJd2bJ2GVXh1HeZCpiUfp6Lw_zT4wtXHQFaOldNe2HOwosLXezed90Vv6pj_H0LtQ7Yky7DzzknJG9oWsTAV4rz4/s320/20230624_144640.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlaj8t8hSzx6GpmbOUavBb4GedLZpOg7OTCgS6D8JZFo25rU0Mplzmvbf7-3sKfAId4cXCOMIoIUbPU-jMb9qd8vzyo8ZKXPXGRyEg5DoY5cOgn0xjHKQgyGItdZoaklKYdQr5AymdqTcRSGbeekj7Rhsw39Q3f3qP2pdFsABLKWoHyd7igYW0DW9LjKY/s320/20230624_203747.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZP1N-EB9DKakc6Q6FWKvl0Z6o9TCkYZHRgVumg8xppMQAuBMCFgpx2QCRgy0AiTlucldIMMDQSNSGzMusJujcYuE4evDdxAmYKs5DnK4QV8hblcErO_SJep_FLZHxqk0xfkQqdS8sWZYXQf3WCf_tDoANMhayk4IiWt51GJbsDlynRQPxocMOTL8md8/s1209/20230624_203759.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZP1N-EB9DKakc6Q6FWKvl0Z6o9TCkYZHRgVumg8xppMQAuBMCFgpx2QCRgy0AiTlucldIMMDQSNSGzMusJujcYuE4evDdxAmYKs5DnK4QV8hblcErO_SJep_FLZHxqk0xfkQqdS8sWZYXQf3WCf_tDoANMhayk4IiWt51GJbsDlynRQPxocMOTL8md8/s320/20230624_203759.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: small;">Scherzone. Ma di quelli brutti. Dopo aver cenato con tacos e quesadillas eccellenti, vengo contattata dall'omino dei bagagli, che mi immagino come un folletto peloso fatto di adesivi con codici a barre e sigle identificative. Egli dice che lo siente muchissimo, ma le nostre cose non ci sono, anche se da sistema risultano imbarcate sul volo che sarebbe arrivato oggi. Prima litighiamo in spanglish, perché a me vengono tanti dubbi sulla bontà e l'onestà del folletto dei codicilli. Quindi mi manda a quel paese e mi costringe ad andare in ginocchio a Canossa, scusarmi e farmi spiegare cosa si fa ora. Non sa rispondermi e pare dispiaciuto. Dice che si era fatto anche prestare il furgone da sua mamma per portarci le bici, perché la sua auto è troppo piccola. Ci consiglia di andare domano in aeroporto, forse arriverà tutto con il volo delle 18.30. In quel forse ci sta tutto, dagli scenari più rosei all'immagine delle nostre bici dimenticate in un angolo di un aeroporto siberiano dove transitano due voli all'anno. In hotel inizia una febbrile ricerca di soluzioni, ma ogni nostro tentativo razionale si infrange contro l'ottusità di sistemi così complessi e dis-umani da andare in palla quando qualcosa esce dallo schema. I numeri da chiamare sono solo in giorni e orari che paiono, a noi bloccati qui, lontanissimi. In aeroporto non ci sono uffici della nostra compagnia. Non c'è nemmeno un lost&found dove lagnarsi. Il PIR, cioè la denuncia di mancata consegna bagagli, in due giorni di caldo umido, pur rimanendo esso foglio in hotel, si è decomposta, biodegradata, e in più è stata compilata a cazzo e mancano dei codici necessari a rintracciare i bagagli. Insomma, un disastro. Ci facciamo un piantino isterico e poi ci rivolgiamo ai nostri santi: Gigi ad un amico che ci sta aiutando tantissimo ed io alla mamma. Tutto è comunque rimandato a domani. Inizio a capire perché su ogni palo della luce ci siano cartelli che pubblicizzano maghi, fattucchiere, curanderi per il corpo e per l'anima... E ad ogni vicolo una madonnina vestita come una bambola. Serve tanto aiuto, tanto, e tanta pazienza, tantissima. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>25/6<div>Cancun</div><div><br /></div><div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: justify;">Dormiamo poco, siamo preoccupati. Due mesi e mezzo di viaggio in bici, senza bici, sono un bel programma! Già dalle 6 sono attaccata al telefono per contattare AirEuropa. Non giungo a nulla. C'è tensione nell'aria. Andiamo in aeroporto. Qui veniamo rimbalzati da un ufficio all'altro, e finiamo persino a rifare dei controlli passaporti, metti mai che siamo immigrati clandestini! In tal caso avrebbero con noi risolto e perderemmo ogni diritto di reclamo, perché ovviamente un timbro ha il potere di decidere della tua sorte. Ma tutti i documenti sono in ordine, quindi i vari impegati ci ascoltano annoiatissimi e poi ci sciacquano ad altri ignari. Così a catena per tutta la mattina. Dovremo tornare alle 17. Stanchi e appiccicosi torniamo in centro, ci consoliamo con una colazione che è anche pranzo e torniamo in albergo, dove abbiamo prenotato una notte in più. </div><div class="yj6qo"></div><div class="adL" dir="auto"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfwkvr_7PkqClp0CxsAeGk-6aiYdJro_RqRxzMoDOjAT5EV0azR6uR79Ul3I2B6REiCECW5PujHV-hL4CI7IFBsy6lWiOex3aitIBYWrU07KDQEsExAoC9RbT0jJcgyUDiDl4INm3Jtogqci1Q7DesKG5GWKYvKrr2aPkizZ3CDv2h3HFTIpvtcvTp6wE/s1209/20230625_080322.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfwkvr_7PkqClp0CxsAeGk-6aiYdJro_RqRxzMoDOjAT5EV0azR6uR79Ul3I2B6REiCECW5PujHV-hL4CI7IFBsy6lWiOex3aitIBYWrU07KDQEsExAoC9RbT0jJcgyUDiDl4INm3Jtogqci1Q7DesKG5GWKYvKrr2aPkizZ3CDv2h3HFTIpvtcvTp6wE/s320/20230625_080322.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JCPqDCstZaxprhqNbo7fY8Jzo3stgF59zWZh2_VUbGSaVv1eQ6IM8FZuTkzzE0mgod_Wg-PneRxBZEuUiaRNxdYUfwdSA241H9bkWo0cLYXMV_w5xcMm08x2bJq5g2enSXv1BhQ4KMLop4fgkbGMIp6MY1X6Yk9C4dAcl9OWYekbIRAeJdbX9Q4QhKQ/s1209/20230625_110541.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JCPqDCstZaxprhqNbo7fY8Jzo3stgF59zWZh2_VUbGSaVv1eQ6IM8FZuTkzzE0mgod_Wg-PneRxBZEuUiaRNxdYUfwdSA241H9bkWo0cLYXMV_w5xcMm08x2bJq5g2enSXv1BhQ4KMLop4fgkbGMIp6MY1X6Yk9C4dAcl9OWYekbIRAeJdbX9Q4QhKQ/s320/20230625_110541.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JG6nqEG-n0v7SeMtGvcPERHyRknkGsR3oWtTqsTGH9rHmJONa2XdbVdb3nbneWt0EinUATqYEXJmHpfUqJkesS_QK-JPjl9rnjX0SbqbmaECn8BNCmmlQZDAyMh2xB6Vhqhq9p0ONjz5JuTOfupd-FMj1-_xoRdLNlCCiO3Ww_UrUcZMaBSOWWOExtw/s1209/20230625_111721.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8JG6nqEG-n0v7SeMtGvcPERHyRknkGsR3oWtTqsTGH9rHmJONa2XdbVdb3nbneWt0EinUATqYEXJmHpfUqJkesS_QK-JPjl9rnjX0SbqbmaECn8BNCmmlQZDAyMh2xB6Vhqhq9p0ONjz5JuTOfupd-FMj1-_xoRdLNlCCiO3Ww_UrUcZMaBSOWWOExtw/s320/20230625_111721.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ohfpurT0e6AeuafVcq9DBrDmCQqYtKxwSEu15RaZgm5AE_nBMCUhUluDbOyRbckgEPB0QXkmSnM5mkTNMNtm9zMJsRAM4xBu6Fs-KTq9t_Hj0zS-sDElPcnFSWS_du1UJBtT78CyqZUzWqE2OuM_vGjqujZYm5feX2ozjI_yTf8jQnQfcYOdp6J78x8/s1209/20230625_120112.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ohfpurT0e6AeuafVcq9DBrDmCQqYtKxwSEu15RaZgm5AE_nBMCUhUluDbOyRbckgEPB0QXkmSnM5mkTNMNtm9zMJsRAM4xBu6Fs-KTq9t_Hj0zS-sDElPcnFSWS_du1UJBtT78CyqZUzWqE2OuM_vGjqujZYm5feX2ozjI_yTf8jQnQfcYOdp6J78x8/s320/20230625_120112.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBJp0QIhwsOPd2YMgVD3wdxKRQ0vHhVTmovkfl0pm87swc8JH-CJIEAl1f4WnnFeYstqIupnSRrcZrOFGLObJcdZWDPpeY0HhKdsAqyVsTGnVRVB7jvrrgp44YLT4vk9HZeshUQseUlzt8y058wvyUtDmjUhLZ0kXMEdc5zYPp4r4QQuXpWFTe_onxzk/s1209/20230625_120205.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBJp0QIhwsOPd2YMgVD3wdxKRQ0vHhVTmovkfl0pm87swc8JH-CJIEAl1f4WnnFeYstqIupnSRrcZrOFGLObJcdZWDPpeY0HhKdsAqyVsTGnVRVB7jvrrgp44YLT4vk9HZeshUQseUlzt8y058wvyUtDmjUhLZ0kXMEdc5zYPp4r4QQuXpWFTe_onxzk/s320/20230625_120205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Dopo una lunga sosta in hotel (il caldo è davvero insostenibile e noi siamo tutti gremati dal sole di ieri) torniamo in strada, dove una pigra e rallentata movida anima locali e negozi. L'aria è densa di fumo di carne grigliata, umidità e vapori che esalano dai tombini e dalle foglie grasse degli alberi. Compriamo una crema solare ed è ora di riprendere il bus e tornare in aeroporto. Tra poco si va in scena con quei merdoni di AirEuropa. Sono carica a pallettoni.</div><p></p></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Purtroppo questo ennesimo tentativo fallisce ancora, e miseramente, con una dose di bile verde da mandar giù più amara del solito. Tutti fanno muro, nessuno sa niente, gli addetti rimbalzano le responsabilità ai colleghi oltreoceano e non si peritano minimamente di provare ad aiutarci. Fanno così il personale di terra della compagnia, gli addetti del lost&found, l'omino dei bagagli che lamenta che nemmeno a lui rispondono dalla sede di Madrid, lasciandolo solo a smazzarsi i casini. Vero o meno, usciamo dall'aeroporto con la consapevolezza che le bici non arriveranno a breve, e chissà quando ci verranno riconsegnate, sempre che questo accada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Succede anche un'altra cosa davvero spiacevole.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Noi siamo stanchissimi perchè da 14 ore parliamo con gente, compiliamo reclami, stiliamo denunce, litighiamo con i mulini a vento. Quindi chiediamo allo staff aeroportuale, un po' distrattamente, dove sia la fermata del bus per il centro in quel terminal. Diversi addetti, tutti fin troppo gentili, ci danno informazioni, dicendo sempre che comunque si possono prendere i taxi. Dopo un'ora di attesa ci rendiamo conto della gabola. I bus non passano da dove ci hanno indicato. Non hanno gli orari che ci hanno detto. Non hanno i vincoli sul biglietto elettronico che hanno tentato di raccontarci, insistendo alle mie domande dubbiose. Quegli addetti sono in accordo con i taxisti e le compagnie private e cercano in ogni modo di farti perdere tempo e speranze, così da prenderti per sfinimento e convincerti a pagare dieci volte di più il prezzo della corsa. Noi, che oggi ci siamo trasformati in buddha di pietra, ma di quelli che tengono una mano sul culo e una davanti, non desistiamo. Troviamo la biglietteria, la fermata e persino il bus. Siamo professionisti nelle attese, ormai. Siamo animali dal metabolismo lentissimo. Dobbiamo anche imparare a fidarci meno in luoghi così turistici, perchè abbiamo la pelle troppo chiara e siamo troppo gringos per essere considerati persone e non bancomat rincoglioniti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Sj28DxD4z4dcoNApuSYgkKh66gaAUQR4IauvIri-IhQOgLsgETZtvSZVLt_yTJF26Xwk8fkx3pEHp0fLd_VmeMQsamQ0-YSN5bFVpSUqKCYN1gDanL6zOFP1cz9lopPD4juVXZ_hGdusK_ZBtvFCs3L48xfa2YwSYP47CUFmaqm7j7e27yWTqrueNpU/s1209/20230625_200317.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1209" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Sj28DxD4z4dcoNApuSYgkKh66gaAUQR4IauvIri-IhQOgLsgETZtvSZVLt_yTJF26Xwk8fkx3pEHp0fLd_VmeMQsamQ0-YSN5bFVpSUqKCYN1gDanL6zOFP1cz9lopPD4juVXZ_hGdusK_ZBtvFCs3L48xfa2YwSYP47CUFmaqm7j7e27yWTqrueNpU/s320/20230625_200317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Torniamo in centro e, come ormai d'abitudine, cerchiamo consolazione nel cibo. Oggi, oltre ai tacos, proviamo altri piatti meno noti, tra cui alcuni piccanti assai. Gigi regge meglio di me, ma dopo aver fatto la scarpetta di una salsa verde di fuoco, è paonazzo, suda e sgocciola da ogni orifizio, pur negando un certo grado di sofferenza.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKiyek_8bNRg_l6H246ba20_Ov6wogZ4s5_FSLEyL_TZxjok6RC4gNOTDi3JAn8DYzOTUN3Bx4bZ-ZhXaT8zhJprpXRqwxYkk3MUzWFibkPN79hdONApkxi6q2_-d1zeSrXPFm1oh98o2a0ZFM8mCNHCF6zkfQjtG3j9AiaxAf8ncy9m81iz2hli7cTHg/s1209/20230625_220454.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKiyek_8bNRg_l6H246ba20_Ov6wogZ4s5_FSLEyL_TZxjok6RC4gNOTDi3JAn8DYzOTUN3Bx4bZ-ZhXaT8zhJprpXRqwxYkk3MUzWFibkPN79hdONApkxi6q2_-d1zeSrXPFm1oh98o2a0ZFM8mCNHCF6zkfQjtG3j9AiaxAf8ncy9m81iz2hli7cTHg/s320/20230625_220454.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM7Kj3ImgPmT2nv-vgNGTaiS0lXdCBjutN6Kvql7Nj9LIOpQyQqUoYddX4IyIh2lOboxpsWKpx0T7Qk8eI-U_nrC-ElNqzApDxOPWo8WnTuYkLYNzd0igR87vrRy6PZWeXPRHLR2VqvpHvZir0dHVJPXpTUg3dGMBUfGtboNmhT66PqYOq1tVdfoTrTYc/s1209/20230625_220506.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM7Kj3ImgPmT2nv-vgNGTaiS0lXdCBjutN6Kvql7Nj9LIOpQyQqUoYddX4IyIh2lOboxpsWKpx0T7Qk8eI-U_nrC-ElNqzApDxOPWo8WnTuYkLYNzd0igR87vrRy6PZWeXPRHLR2VqvpHvZir0dHVJPXpTUg3dGMBUfGtboNmhT66PqYOq1tVdfoTrTYc/s320/20230625_220506.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AaowmDrF55le3tORn7cG8O58mB45FxQg_jNCElA392R8W9oiyTpyrnGpzw0VfycyqbwDCiWIH0vGYnWUIYNAwW8jjCXGi1iflXxoXJJTVy_H6749f3_2y2Zim1vlH9kEM_FpMrc2miGCi-dXriOPIlrUfsIl9v0XCXcfQqpNWtTWIXC_pCvon-6Nllk/s1209/20230625_225728.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="907" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AaowmDrF55le3tORn7cG8O58mB45FxQg_jNCElA392R8W9oiyTpyrnGpzw0VfycyqbwDCiWIH0vGYnWUIYNAwW8jjCXGi1iflXxoXJJTVy_H6749f3_2y2Zim1vlH9kEM_FpMrc2miGCi-dXriOPIlrUfsIl9v0XCXcfQqpNWtTWIXC_pCvon-6Nllk/s320/20230625_225728.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bH0pSJz3jT6rcW5HQ2_Q62P9brAsO8SglNeZJTjvEukEw_pfp7Kma6VtXr0iD7kgdfMZ6qkhZX2qlwzasxGrShy8Jm-rRGY9dqcFrHSA_uil9qmqfZ4kQC6a_xLWbKDzfrx1xZiAubcEvHIWXk_6ITZBGuP8xF2xXqhn7y4pxI30uB0RGGHYq5KwDIw/s979/20230625_230856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bH0pSJz3jT6rcW5HQ2_Q62P9brAsO8SglNeZJTjvEukEw_pfp7Kma6VtXr0iD7kgdfMZ6qkhZX2qlwzasxGrShy8Jm-rRGY9dqcFrHSA_uil9qmqfZ4kQC6a_xLWbKDzfrx1xZiAubcEvHIWXk_6ITZBGuP8xF2xXqhn7y4pxI30uB0RGGHYq5KwDIw/s320/20230625_230856.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Mentre rientriamo, iniziamo a ragionare sul futuro immediato. E' possibile che, se le bici non dovessero arrivare entro breve, o se non sapessimo una data di consegna, si debba iniziare il viaggio con i mezzi pubblici. Non possiamo rimanere giorni, o settimane, qui a Cancun. C'è tanto da vedere e il tempo passa. Domani speriamo di saperne di più.</div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-9149002271302220862023-06-21T15:01:00.003+02:002023-06-21T15:01:57.935+02:000. Messico e nuvole in bici! Imparare la lentezza e che "amar es combatir"<p style="text-align: left;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfpBZQcKfXPsApQcbiQKYjNqVG-eNYb_EtzmLzsCz748e0QILAP-Q5PshndikO0Fz8zl2rziVp7bb0S9naXqySVYuQklC88JiMiGlPljE6frxLIPJ7ZUtl9XQDkMzNxB8ZIaNSTdg6yXVC8Ait4cHOKIxlTJP6JgRifLmkgqk7cKUDBOIu16kuv_THBeA/s1336/messicomap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="523" data-original-width="1336" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfpBZQcKfXPsApQcbiQKYjNqVG-eNYb_EtzmLzsCz748e0QILAP-Q5PshndikO0Fz8zl2rziVp7bb0S9naXqySVYuQklC88JiMiGlPljE6frxLIPJ7ZUtl9XQDkMzNxB8ZIaNSTdg6yXVC8Ait4cHOKIxlTJP6JgRifLmkgqk7cKUDBOIu16kuv_THBeA/w640-h250/messicomap.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><i style="text-align: justify;"><p style="text-align: left;"><i style="text-align: justify;"><br /></i></p>"Ogni aspetto del Messico sembra voler ricordare a chiunque che la
velocità, in qualsiasi occasione, serve solo a farci arrivare prima alla tomba.
La lentezza è forse la cifra interpretativa che contraddistingue la </i><span style="text-align: justify;">mexicanidad</span><i style="text-align: justify;">, questa filosofia del vivere adagio che fa
fare le cose meglio - e più durature; tanti stranieri faticano a comprenderla e
ad adeguarvisi, finendo spesso per cedere all’ansia, per fare ogni cosa peggio
e in modo meno efficace.”</i><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Con queste parole, che leggo in
un saggio di Pino Cacucci in “The passenger - Messico”, mi sono convinta definitivamente
che il Messico sia la meta perfetta per un viaggio in bici. In realtà mi era
già bastato leggere nella guida Lonely Planet che, quando si è invitati a casa
di un messicano, è buona regola tardare di mezzora almeno, perché arrivare
puntuali è considerato scortese. Io, che nell’efficientissima macchina
tritacarne milanese che gira ad ansiolitici e cocaina sono un ingranaggio poco
oliato, scopro che in Messico sarei la più cortese e beneducata di tutti!</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Questa idea del rallentare il
tempo mi affascina ed è qualcosa che si radica a fondo nella mia consapevolezza
della finitudine. Colpa di Seneca? Colpa di Orazio? Non si tratta solo di
cogliere l’attimo, vivere il presente e abitare ogni singolo grano di sabbia
della clessidra come fosse un intero pianeta. Si tratta anche di rallentarne la
caduta. Di estendere nel tempo quell’inarrestabile scorrere. E come si fa?</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Per me la risposta è semplice:
saltare in sella, iniziare a pedalare. Scoprire universi nuovi. Incontrare
persone che vivono in modo diverso dal mio, e paiono lontane, ma poi si
riconoscono in una umanità dai mille volti che prova a campare in questo mondo
grande e terribile.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Quindi quest’anno si va in
Messico ad imparare la lentezza. Lentezza che significa anche cura, attenzione
ai dettagli. E’ una forma d’amore.<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Abbiamo bisogno di contadini,</i></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><i>di poeti, gente che sa fare il pane,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>che ama gli alberi e riconosce il vento.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Più che l’anno della crescita,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>ci vorrebbe l’anno dell’attenzione.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Attenzione a chi cade, al sole che nasce</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>e che muore, ai ragazzi che crescono,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>attenzione anche a un semplice lampione,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>a un muro scrostato.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Oggi essere rivoluzionari significa togliere</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>più che aggiungere, rallentare più che accelerare,</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>significa dare valore al silenzio, alla luce,</i></div></i><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><i>alla fragilità, alla dolcezza.</i></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><i>(Arminio, Cedi la strada agli alberi)</i></div></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF8DIYy_mynooGUBMkYK5L4DGLB2g4HUQCTmPOZwM23j1uE6eQ3JcNgZHp7xUqHX6qVMrY2QuwdCjVs7pcf21rOczkp29yTSokQnq_9m33MNMnTCyMYTrdGCV4RCn7KL9prTkEF9V3dORNeTVCnxCWZg7xET1ox31eFbTPeNDIsxYbC9wugJ8xzD57IQs/s3805/IMG_20220810_143356_096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2854" data-original-width="3805" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF8DIYy_mynooGUBMkYK5L4DGLB2g4HUQCTmPOZwM23j1uE6eQ3JcNgZHp7xUqHX6qVMrY2QuwdCjVs7pcf21rOczkp29yTSokQnq_9m33MNMnTCyMYTrdGCV4RCn7KL9prTkEF9V3dORNeTVCnxCWZg7xET1ox31eFbTPeNDIsxYbC9wugJ8xzD57IQs/w400-h300/IMG_20220810_143356_096.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></div>Ma in Messico ci sono anche altre
millemila cose che mi affascinano e mi chiamano.</span></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">La storia, ad esempio. Questa
complessa stratificazione millenaria che ha visto le popolazioni autoctone
sviluppare proprie civiltà, poi sottomesse ai grandi imperi (maya e aztechi per
citarne solo due). Poi i conquistadores, quell’incontro fatale tra Cortés e
Montezuma, il vicereame spagnolo, l’indipendenza, la rivoluzione di Zapata…
Ogni millimetro di questa terra è coperto di tracce di ciò che è stato. Si
trovano nella pietra delle “piramidi” (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">teocalli</i>),
nel cibo e nel tequila, nelle molteplici lingue parlate, nella musica, nel
sincretismo tra cattolicesimo e religioni precedenti, per cui la Virgen de
Guadalupe è una ripulita Tonantzin, dea azteca di creazione e distruzione.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">La storia è anche quella di
ingiustizia e tentativi di riscatto, di rivolte nate dal basso, dalle
popolazioni indigene, dalle donne che cantano <i>sin miedo</i>, dai migranti che cercano di raggiungere l’ingombrante,
seducente, altero vicino di casa.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">La storia è quel filo rosso che
collega gli <i>tzompantli</i>, torri di
teschi di prigionieri o sacrifici umani, diffusi nelle civiltà mesoamericane, e
le fosse comuni delle vittime dei narcos; entrambe affiorano dalla terra appena
si scava di qualche metro, entrambe sono frutto di una cultura che stratifica,
sedimenta, erige e sotterra, chiede sangue.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Che altro? Delle bellezze
naturali nemmeno sto a dire. Andiamo dalle spiagge considerate tra le più belle
al mondo alla giungla, dalle mangrovie alla foresta nebulare in altura, dalle
barriere coralline fino al deserto della Baja California, con una biodiversità
di fauna e flora di ricchezza unica.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Quindi… siamo in partenza! Gigi,
che compie oggi settant’anni, è più pronto che mai; ha studiato spagnolo negli
ultimi mesi e si è allenato ogni giorno in sella. Ormai è pure lui, come me,
una bestia da viaggio, da soma, un ulisside insonne, un avventuriero. L’assetto
è il solito: la bici è la Signorina felicita, che per il sesto anno mi porta in
gita per il mondo e ha già affrontato i territori impervi dell’Islanda, le
grandi distanze statunitensi, le alture andine e l’impenetrabile Amazzonia
peruviana. Viaggiamo carichi, con i fedeli borsoni (panniers, come va di moda
dire ora, ma va pronunciato con le labbra strette a culo di gallina) Ortlieb in
cui starà tutto il necessario per i due mesi e mezzo di viaggio unsupported che
ci siamo concessi per attraversare il Messico (che è grande più o meno come
tutta l’Europa! Mercalli mente).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTlUI6UqcwwmjW6jwwOa9TQBeMhI8nON6rPSAUc8UXVF9lwE_4_5xtldoTuyCaAC0rAxoaTrVqvcLxJgmjqgkT46cxZWnm-uX_9H2iSEuxgNXaS0ahWB68OxQqcWfhxLQhr6jyWA6-782wPIFG1ElzAeodiq-QHnT80PQ9cVQmVG-ari4EXKUJk-gbJIQ/s4160/IMG_20210812_142015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTlUI6UqcwwmjW6jwwOa9TQBeMhI8nON6rPSAUc8UXVF9lwE_4_5xtldoTuyCaAC0rAxoaTrVqvcLxJgmjqgkT46cxZWnm-uX_9H2iSEuxgNXaS0ahWB68OxQqcWfhxLQhr6jyWA6-782wPIFG1ElzAeodiq-QHnT80PQ9cVQmVG-ari4EXKUJk-gbJIQ/w400-h300/IMG_20210812_142015.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Partiremo da Cancun, per muoverci
attraverso i luoghi più interessanti, dal punto di vista storico e naturalistico,
di Quintana Roo, Yucatan e Campeche. Poi scenderemo attraverso il Tabasco in
Chiapas, per conoscere le realtà indigene e quelle zapatiste (EZLN).
Attraverseremo monti e valli dell’Oaxaca, di Puebla e fino a Città del Messico,
per poi spingerci di nuovo verso la costa, passando per Guadalajara. Da lì, in
nave, raggiungeremo la penisola della Baja California, che sarà l’ultima grande
meraviglia con cui concludere il viaggio.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Il percorso è molto, molto
indicativo e spannometrico. Serve solo per avere un’idea del kilometraggio
globale. Nel tempo ho imparato l’arte dello studio in loco e della quasi improvvisazione,
che permette di creare la traccia man mano, con le informazioni fresche
raccolte per via e la possibilità di cambiare programma ogni volta che si
vuole. Le gabbie, anche logistiche, restano a casa.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Una delle domande cui vorrei
trovare risposta, in questo viaggio, è se sia possibile un turismo sostenibile,
equo, rispettoso della natura e delle comunità che ci vivono, in un paese noto
per gli hotel ecomostruosi delle località balneari, per le trovate quantomeno
discutibili di una politica spesso cieca, come il dibattuto “Treno maya” e per
l’inquinamento della sua capitale. Ci proveremo. Proveremo a ridurre al minimo
la nostra impronta ecologica.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Verrà con me anche Octavio Paz,
autore messicano, Nobel per la letteratura nel ’90. Lascio tre assaggi, ma ne
riparleremo.<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">La vita, quando fu davvero nostra?<br />
Quando siamo davvero ciò che siamo?<br />
A ben guardare noi da soli siamo<br />
nient’altro che vertigine e voragine,<br />
ghigni dentro lo specchio, orrore e vomito,<br />
mai la vita è nostra, è degli altri,<br />
la vita non è di nessuno, tutti siamo<br /></p><div style="text-align: left;">
la vita —pane di sole per gli altri,<br />
tutti gli altri che siam noi—,<br />
son piú miei se sono anche di tutti<br />perché io possa essere devo esser altro,<br />
uscire da me, cercarmi tra gli altri,<br />
gli altri che non sono s’io non esisto,<br />
gli altri che mi dan piena esistenza,<br /><div style="text-align: left;">
non sono, non v’è io, siam sempre noi,<br />son altro quando sono, i miei atti<br />
la vita è un’altra, sempre là, piú lungi,<br />
fuori di te, di me, sempre orizzonte,<br />
vita che ci svive e ci fa estranei<br />
che ci inventa un volto e lo sciupa,<br />
fame d’essere, oh morte, pane di tutti.</div></div><p></p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><div style="text-align: justify;">L'amore è uno degli esempi più
evidenti di quel duplice istinto che ci induce a scavare e ad affondare in noi
stessi, e, contemporaneamente, a uscire da noi e a realizzarci nell'altro:
morte e ricreazione, solitudine e comunione. Ma non è il solo. Nella vita di
ogni uomo c'è una serie di momenti che sono anch'essi rotture e unioni,
separazioni e riconciliazioni. Ciascuna di queste tappe è un tentativo di
trascendere la nostra solitudine, seguita da immersioni in ambienti estranei.<br />Octavio Paz, Il labirinto della
solitudine, “La dialettica della solitudine”</div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Amare è lotta, quando due si baciano<br />
il mondo cambia, i desideri si incarnano,<br />
anche il pensiero incarna, un paio d’ali<br />
spuntano sulla schiena dello schiavo,<br />
si fa concreto il mondo, il vino è vino,<br />
prende sapore il pane, l’acqua è acqua,<br />
amare è lotta, è spalancare porte,<br />
non essere più fantasma con un numero<br />
a perpetua catena condannato<br />
da un capo senza volto;<br />
Octavio Paz, Pietra del sole (Piedra de sol), 1957, vv. 365-374</p>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-43602290490816343372022-08-29T05:25:00.001+02:002022-08-29T05:25:16.472+02:0049-51. L'ultimo passo, non più lungo della gamba. 4818m di pura, faticosa, essenziale, meraviglia <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_HanfovKzREqh9EVJw4N1RquGGRyk9xtBpf7QEzPWURADRvIBeaQ1Of02R0T0lWMIVT8njAHxUbk-jOaUKHEEzmY8U9qMU7ZaI2W09W8AdXvH0RA3aaQ-Pl6a10LXvKQFmRfcFcH9D2o7N34tm0HD5MwKGu__nwOGuW6X2_zpfOko4P7XJrm2KMN/s1280/20220828_124028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_HanfovKzREqh9EVJw4N1RquGGRyk9xtBpf7QEzPWURADRvIBeaQ1Of02R0T0lWMIVT8njAHxUbk-jOaUKHEEzmY8U9qMU7ZaI2W09W8AdXvH0RA3aaQ-Pl6a10LXvKQFmRfcFcH9D2o7N34tm0HD5MwKGu__nwOGuW6X2_zpfOko4P7XJrm2KMN/w640-h480/20220828_124028.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs7YyNgBRjEuQNwRNdTVcRaSDx6BwOGHUwyYq4XNSiVhtHKZBPymWUYIQysR464rIGn7W42Axep8H8TJmfcnEk-TezM4M35QBeUW-0wOURynZEgxhUoBAfhAgVGXKMuFcjmywdpIlSGR5cn6wyWdan9eul6w9r_rRipxSck0_1Zy-H_3CEEaEVokSG/s1280/20220828_131846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzgPrakOTIFxqgD91gnoZEe4_OuFVkCLmyUNJrm-ZIHHdGFvNRfdzUYckj8rYf3ap0urrfA_1NA-ZN0Pe1EbzbcKlrUkleoVTB543IrOLZrFUNed6kPIC5N9vpqIwr-HwrL_JuP-5BX5LAte13dHtza7rpl4BwRjEV4LGNzm5CPdL4pt5yKpSzIRg/s1280/20220828_112846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzgPrakOTIFxqgD91gnoZEe4_OuFVkCLmyUNJrm-ZIHHdGFvNRfdzUYckj8rYf3ap0urrfA_1NA-ZN0Pe1EbzbcKlrUkleoVTB543IrOLZrFUNed6kPIC5N9vpqIwr-HwrL_JuP-5BX5LAte13dHtza7rpl4BwRjEV4LGNzm5CPdL4pt5yKpSzIRg/w640-h480/20220828_112846.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Venerdì, 26/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">Tarma - La Oroya (3800m)</div><div style="text-align: left;">60km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Ormai l'incipit dei miei racconti si ripete monocorde: anche stanotte sono stata male, non ho dormito, ho vomitato, ho passato il resto del tempo sul cesso a chiedermi cosa io abbia fatto di male, mai, in questa vita e nelle altre prima. Quali peccati. Nel disturbato e doloroso dormiveglia, ho pensato due cose. La prima: sto marcendo, da dentro; sono in putrefazione. La seconda: la pietra tiepida dello scalino di fronte a casa, nelle sere di giugno, quando è tardi e il cielo è ancora lilla, una festa di rondini, e la corte porta memoria del primo sole estivo che l'ha baciata.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Qui invece è tornato il freddo dei monti, e oltretutto, ogni volta che si esce dalle coperte, son brividi.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Tuttavia questa mattina ci si fa animo. Mi sveglio dopo qualche frazione di sogno e trovo Gigi gonfio in viso come se fosse stato picchiato. E' una reazione allergica a tutte le punture d'api dei giorni scorsi. Lo spedisco in farmacia, anche perchè due malesseri raramente si consolano, piuttosto si amplificano. Intanto preparo la colazione, e mi accorgo che i fiammiferi che ho comprato ad Arequipa son di marca Inti. Giustamente, il dio inca del sole. Ormai un dio delle piccole cose.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTL1a1aIr97LIZ9TdBJlj4MBZcWz_99YRnxV5lZJlCdFZlBXnW6skZ4COYV3nMbkKLcvkNOt_-fwY5qTEsHsVzFNQTlmwRoBUaIzqCCH8WpcbTGjV-qfFOEUs0eEkwSaawqld_EEP385i9pm16_nytWGBC4JE-HSCM7sIoxBM4tmYZ_42sEU4CJjn/s1280/20220825_224803.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTL1a1aIr97LIZ9TdBJlj4MBZcWz_99YRnxV5lZJlCdFZlBXnW6skZ4COYV3nMbkKLcvkNOt_-fwY5qTEsHsVzFNQTlmwRoBUaIzqCCH8WpcbTGjV-qfFOEUs0eEkwSaawqld_EEP385i9pm16_nytWGBC4JE-HSCM7sIoxBM4tmYZ_42sEU4CJjn/s320/20220825_224803.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gigi torna con medicamenti vari, ci nutriamo e ci mettiamo in moto. Già portare le borse, in più giri, al pian terreno, ci sfianca. Salire le scale toglie il fiato, a siamo solo a 3000m. Nel giro di poche ore supereremo i 4200... Speriamo bene!</div><div>Mi vedo nello specchio e mi accorgo che ormai il mio corpo ingombra meno degli abiti che indosso, ma so che regge e tiene botta ed obbedisce a quanto la volontà comanda. Oggi si deve scalare, e si scala.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjESrZWH5RGUmJezsro7neZVnopvKAqEDdTkA3p-NqSRu6mP39GdrQZVl7Lr4SfrVUBzvOm96x0oorN-y21u4x1rwu6Aj4dPhoYafjW-ntfIk36AHXIIOYyCJeWJd0pSkzXwaE2N-1gasaLOKKdfLxTaEdqGD3Oe_Ew8hXn8TrXCF8zsY4HVE-_HYLC/s1280/20220826_095214.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjESrZWH5RGUmJezsro7neZVnopvKAqEDdTkA3p-NqSRu6mP39GdrQZVl7Lr4SfrVUBzvOm96x0oorN-y21u4x1rwu6Aj4dPhoYafjW-ntfIk36AHXIIOYyCJeWJd0pSkzXwaE2N-1gasaLOKKdfLxTaEdqGD3Oe_Ew8hXn8TrXCF8zsY4HVE-_HYLC/s320/20220826_095214.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-WD6UmDMW0HYAQMzK57KG_IHTjUsqWIJBBKK1O43PuQAE-NTeB-OhXlhiD8Ry167kPdAXQbt5ti8-RtdE6AHvKm9wgLGElzYEUgyUUYj0MvpxK5unZG8jl-ArtBluCCNurhCApOd4SIomUjdmlbH0vRx0wNpEbWHEU3YZqNE7j8l4n5ItK_oDDbQF/s1280/20220826_095220.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-WD6UmDMW0HYAQMzK57KG_IHTjUsqWIJBBKK1O43PuQAE-NTeB-OhXlhiD8Ry167kPdAXQbt5ti8-RtdE6AHvKm9wgLGElzYEUgyUUYj0MvpxK5unZG8jl-ArtBluCCNurhCApOd4SIomUjdmlbH0vRx0wNpEbWHEU3YZqNE7j8l4n5ItK_oDDbQF/s320/20220826_095220.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tarma finisce presto, con il viavai di mototaxi e combis che corrono a Lima, a Cerro de Pasco, a Huancayo. Noi imbocchiamo la strada che porta a costeggiare la valle e poi a lasciarla con una serie di tornanti larghi che aggiogano le vie delle vette. Non c'è traffico e si respira una quiete quasi assoluta, interrotta solo dalle trombe bitonali che non solo ci riservano i camion, ma pure le auto e a momenti pure i tricicli. Son saluti, incoraggiamenti, richiami a non stare sulla carreggiata, tutto insieme.</div><div>Le propaggini della vallata sono un susseguirsi di campi, orti, frutteti e coltivazioni di fiori ed erbe aromatiche. Su tutta questa campagna affacciano casette modeste ma dignitose, che han visto tante stagioni e popoli spaccarsi la schiena su questi solchi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioKQkiC2LHzAU7pfdgQJZ8u32fwqD0hn2nFAt0Bf01WYc77rUluVBgV_pLc2F-Y3f4ueRtbXxYTMcRNz9YUldGb11jDQdWns7qwiUobmXb8bUE-IOeiGb2YE1bVRG_UP7_WjqiAsYq_4zyKEWGg1KQiWn8sbPUMQ7iZobK_wVUghaUED4sA8NK3py4/s1280/20220826_100544.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioKQkiC2LHzAU7pfdgQJZ8u32fwqD0hn2nFAt0Bf01WYc77rUluVBgV_pLc2F-Y3f4ueRtbXxYTMcRNz9YUldGb11jDQdWns7qwiUobmXb8bUE-IOeiGb2YE1bVRG_UP7_WjqiAsYq_4zyKEWGg1KQiWn8sbPUMQ7iZobK_wVUghaUED4sA8NK3py4/s320/20220826_100544.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9rmFXlQosGBDs9Jxr6pPIAbYRKnXpNfW-b-0CJsl1lfKAzTwdZypUJV5iHnsJ_t4IzumsowM7FfSiFjW8az-H_L6T5qwpmQESWkegjJRaMWUXb6-yKloapmn0rYXL7tOop-PoFW6Mj8J5JTTrM0mCS7PGxpMKGwVAIZqNrKvXbl3CAj_vC73r-Vzr/s1280/20220826_100546.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9rmFXlQosGBDs9Jxr6pPIAbYRKnXpNfW-b-0CJsl1lfKAzTwdZypUJV5iHnsJ_t4IzumsowM7FfSiFjW8az-H_L6T5qwpmQESWkegjJRaMWUXb6-yKloapmn0rYXL7tOop-PoFW6Mj8J5JTTrM0mCS7PGxpMKGwVAIZqNrKvXbl3CAj_vC73r-Vzr/s320/20220826_100546.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJoLbii5SwaETCv2IBj_q9gnSey_mFQ7SCFF8SHWUM32Ghbu2z4BqG2ePXPnsZp83Pt6ljT9CYBEeBk2gn3jPNIsKaxsQKlg7-o6duDL-pGjkQ763yK0bT3VZmGvozm2Cyf-2QVltl4zLLXY_bZQtHfp7VtKSZ6Ke2qMnpWakSvK0tG9XLzUk468SN/s1280/20220826_101545.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJoLbii5SwaETCv2IBj_q9gnSey_mFQ7SCFF8SHWUM32Ghbu2z4BqG2ePXPnsZp83Pt6ljT9CYBEeBk2gn3jPNIsKaxsQKlg7-o6duDL-pGjkQ763yK0bT3VZmGvozm2Cyf-2QVltl4zLLXY_bZQtHfp7VtKSZ6Ke2qMnpWakSvK0tG9XLzUk468SN/s320/20220826_101545.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgwBjMPBG_w5Ng9eB0zm3E1DlX8Zvoihxu3CTOfocoaZppKvNJClJD7oziBA9K5ggvEJq7RddVfIeYOQUW8JPTOF_S0SAI-ONILOVtByTFc7hLgI9WtkHD4J7coCffNVFJ887nZsaBI9wdHZWELY_n43TSBkO5O45S0kL0tUnf8TNPc4BrLYlUCC4/s1280/20220826_101550.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgwBjMPBG_w5Ng9eB0zm3E1DlX8Zvoihxu3CTOfocoaZppKvNJClJD7oziBA9K5ggvEJq7RddVfIeYOQUW8JPTOF_S0SAI-ONILOVtByTFc7hLgI9WtkHD4J7coCffNVFJ887nZsaBI9wdHZWELY_n43TSBkO5O45S0kL0tUnf8TNPc4BrLYlUCC4/s320/20220826_101550.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_ySA2QvR-ryFdvwqfKBP81mNIv644OYGfPdRUgAZ660RGniyTpUZOrDXlHpBFAQ6gT2EO_9oPByBDWUSO88q35BEwPFx3rKuWR9FIWMPIjWjhxj1JodWDyKOARh1ltmuaUbeUSxP3TOplKOK2OgEHE4MBzO4DMwwv8G-no7DnQ__1K1PC1hEeFkS/s1280/20220826_102616.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_ySA2QvR-ryFdvwqfKBP81mNIv644OYGfPdRUgAZ660RGniyTpUZOrDXlHpBFAQ6gT2EO_9oPByBDWUSO88q35BEwPFx3rKuWR9FIWMPIjWjhxj1JodWDyKOARh1ltmuaUbeUSxP3TOplKOK2OgEHE4MBzO4DMwwv8G-no7DnQ__1K1PC1hEeFkS/s320/20220826_102616.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6BDlmRImnf9JfMWdh2S21_fvcVoeunxP5dVpeqjPxSRRxSObJkTpy1-iyJhltuJY3FKLw0tEc2kS0m-nDe1oWEOYknShmRygF1Prng7Vt1JjH2SdUlYySAri2lkpLC94XcgHsTyTl-J-4GBKXHg-avJOWJKJIW8nzFn-m97_jdSTKvSbCKJ3DZLq/s1280/20220826_103059.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6BDlmRImnf9JfMWdh2S21_fvcVoeunxP5dVpeqjPxSRRxSObJkTpy1-iyJhltuJY3FKLw0tEc2kS0m-nDe1oWEOYknShmRygF1Prng7Vt1JjH2SdUlYySAri2lkpLC94XcgHsTyTl-J-4GBKXHg-avJOWJKJIW8nzFn-m97_jdSTKvSbCKJ3DZLq/s320/20220826_103059.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3arf1d2Lp1mb8-YvBNJVdEA_kBpxcCbbMvu7kjidfwL81qXdsZvIFvOaWpdNoFNWh1lhWIMRTBk0ZDYzI3hgnigre8G599llZwd92mEftxtZ3162qljytjMtai60jzmMXYqA_kdThxJMITziMNoi8H_wR7MNhQ_zoXPgA9HA0EYAiyaedEBlw-hXc/s1280/20220826_103931.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3arf1d2Lp1mb8-YvBNJVdEA_kBpxcCbbMvu7kjidfwL81qXdsZvIFvOaWpdNoFNWh1lhWIMRTBk0ZDYzI3hgnigre8G599llZwd92mEftxtZ3162qljytjMtai60jzmMXYqA_kdThxJMITziMNoi8H_wR7MNhQ_zoXPgA9HA0EYAiyaedEBlw-hXc/s320/20220826_103931.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccGPGlUbIhf4cSog1visleC6FY4OxP5X3XVOwzBhwgLb7IAfkt7TKQhY3_SL2hCbuTAxIqVuaRqA1W5f6sOE3E3XpDK5GzV7Rttc8w4NdzAIpuRVqeW-ks2pN2XBWYKMsxO1djFhY1i5x4RPbj__2mZTlNknG8g2nTCdkpln_4fWmYYbD81dFjx54/s1280/20220826_103936.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccGPGlUbIhf4cSog1visleC6FY4OxP5X3XVOwzBhwgLb7IAfkt7TKQhY3_SL2hCbuTAxIqVuaRqA1W5f6sOE3E3XpDK5GzV7Rttc8w4NdzAIpuRVqeW-ks2pN2XBWYKMsxO1djFhY1i5x4RPbj__2mZTlNknG8g2nTCdkpln_4fWmYYbD81dFjx54/s320/20220826_103936.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si sale, si sale senza sosta. A bordo strada e nei campi si vedono di nuovo gli andini, con i loro profili immutati nei secoli, i vestiti tradizionali e i bimbi portati avvolti nelle coperte colorate, sulla schiena. Tutti i lavori sono svolti a mano, senza macchine. Zappare, dissodare, arare, costruire canali per l'acqua.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVIVVMrSlPA9LvunWKCLAUA_X3-fFnlny32ihYncduUu9DBwFGJAfYkJlyJX7EXfhk1wqhGmz1XT_95D5SCmFKByrZlsCXo_KFJIqaOS51CfJrJoyYt90SolRBbevCORkb1c9UATM3LPy9Pejn4s_m11zRf81x0_xJPHWx5aRWgmtS7rWpPVZvi7p-/s1280/20220826_103940.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVIVVMrSlPA9LvunWKCLAUA_X3-fFnlny32ihYncduUu9DBwFGJAfYkJlyJX7EXfhk1wqhGmz1XT_95D5SCmFKByrZlsCXo_KFJIqaOS51CfJrJoyYt90SolRBbevCORkb1c9UATM3LPy9Pejn4s_m11zRf81x0_xJPHWx5aRWgmtS7rWpPVZvi7p-/s320/20220826_103940.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86KjfYmIPJISYvC7bYKu2CnoN4jVR_44_iNOXOYuMfhL8hIsxCYqTSIRE1HOU14Fj5Sv4r6pRE-uoyribLOIm1G1Z2vdRIocHsmyWuc11MkuSyYdF1CCuEVTsXzWrgQMvT7PN4palAwASq2D_L8eWKSD4qKUonTwdMr8H9geBtqKAytWodggl5uMJ/s1280/20220826_104202.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86KjfYmIPJISYvC7bYKu2CnoN4jVR_44_iNOXOYuMfhL8hIsxCYqTSIRE1HOU14Fj5Sv4r6pRE-uoyribLOIm1G1Z2vdRIocHsmyWuc11MkuSyYdF1CCuEVTsXzWrgQMvT7PN4palAwASq2D_L8eWKSD4qKUonTwdMr8H9geBtqKAytWodggl5uMJ/s320/20220826_104202.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxAPqRH8aDgwG3G_7rkjM0Pc-fQQv_SQSLqrWA4N2yUTvFHd5vR5mop46D2pgAMG5e_uW96A5wEf4is2OsmybAfbEQX6cVAdGlI9YhTcxOD8247aJuvld7D6sKYoQegoi0J6ijs7RaUFWzHIR2GvDndWdE2fmUQmY5TkLkS600r7JvLBi_G5iDLYpN/s1280/20220826_104215.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxAPqRH8aDgwG3G_7rkjM0Pc-fQQv_SQSLqrWA4N2yUTvFHd5vR5mop46D2pgAMG5e_uW96A5wEf4is2OsmybAfbEQX6cVAdGlI9YhTcxOD8247aJuvld7D6sKYoQegoi0J6ijs7RaUFWzHIR2GvDndWdE2fmUQmY5TkLkS600r7JvLBi_G5iDLYpN/s320/20220826_104215.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheumSMBlXKONRq7Sruw3zkCPd88jUlBX9RhP5AjL28zBVZ4askbsBPR9x0o4gGJ8HptCcRvlYLaUjjzpOamVjH5NAZU1Fthzkn-U76ns6A219HTxESM_qhKKNYkJ4b-RltJM3zG8OjirQ735N4R_wxfVPgSP5jfJMNtr0ukMfcOmAT-IkKEcrM-ZXK/s1280/20220826_104359.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheumSMBlXKONRq7Sruw3zkCPd88jUlBX9RhP5AjL28zBVZ4askbsBPR9x0o4gGJ8HptCcRvlYLaUjjzpOamVjH5NAZU1Fthzkn-U76ns6A219HTxESM_qhKKNYkJ4b-RltJM3zG8OjirQ735N4R_wxfVPgSP5jfJMNtr0ukMfcOmAT-IkKEcrM-ZXK/s320/20220826_104359.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6UQXcdJDUHU1r74MrUDJCOnFuq3hbteRl7iW4fCDxOZOEoxQBdDtyOVzN-H93GlJJPqfJaBGPVhLpoaeXYR5HfuVUtw5io3frzABmJgqY2W9Wkf3QYGUalxTppmYdA8KfGBHe3byzXIlJRS6kmhPxd5d9EZTIU7jOTqj9-Em_HJwFGM4JYRqO-xy/s1280/20220826_104401.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ6UQXcdJDUHU1r74MrUDJCOnFuq3hbteRl7iW4fCDxOZOEoxQBdDtyOVzN-H93GlJJPqfJaBGPVhLpoaeXYR5HfuVUtw5io3frzABmJgqY2W9Wkf3QYGUalxTppmYdA8KfGBHe3byzXIlJRS6kmhPxd5d9EZTIU7jOTqj9-Em_HJwFGM4JYRqO-xy/s320/20220826_104401.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Compaiono anche le prime cave. Stiamo per addentrarci in una delle zone minerarie più ricche al mondo, e anche più inquinate e deleterie per l'ambiente e la salute di chi ci vive. Ma qui l'inferno non è ancora aperto sotto ai piedi, in fucine e voragini sulfuree. Qui una madre seduta nel campo zappetta metro a metro, mentre il figlio legge un libro illustrato poco distante.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxwaGpw9krcbbA8qpc1bb6bGjnfpDaY5B__FhQ1gEmbuJIN4FoE7zhoFbFR7XvcpZACYOZBtCevO-__2FL5K8DzpXlnu7K0ztE-An3Q2Tqb6-m3oa56Qkrw0LbE_o4c6hib7lh7uIQALlUgDuqpoLcl_7u9bGx5LDTwL6Np6oefzjIHFWgPua6pjup/s1280/20220826_104800.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxwaGpw9krcbbA8qpc1bb6bGjnfpDaY5B__FhQ1gEmbuJIN4FoE7zhoFbFR7XvcpZACYOZBtCevO-__2FL5K8DzpXlnu7K0ztE-An3Q2Tqb6-m3oa56Qkrw0LbE_o4c6hib7lh7uIQALlUgDuqpoLcl_7u9bGx5LDTwL6Np6oefzjIHFWgPua6pjup/s320/20220826_104800.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Poi le abitazioni si diradano e la roccia prende il sopravvento. E la roccia si spacca, si taglia, si scava, si sbriciola, si gratta via dal monte qui per portarla altrove in comodi sacchi porzionati. Gli Apu non sono d'accordo, e ogni tanto mandano una sciagura, che sia d'acqua o terremoto.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8v1GFpxECJoEh_C6M4rPdR5C8Fos5sahcAf3-HTf16Ing4ObwqTcM9j6GSEPvOmPsKIWll30IWkw7d2SOQVWH9WQYYd3NhwV3QJxzqAcLKv5Tx_P-56AxZmgR0GABP9IIwVbX_T8PKLi5UkVE5SvnItTt1NR7InON-RYpgtryfLrLLvvlT3rGn5Ce/s1280/20220826_104808.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8v1GFpxECJoEh_C6M4rPdR5C8Fos5sahcAf3-HTf16Ing4ObwqTcM9j6GSEPvOmPsKIWll30IWkw7d2SOQVWH9WQYYd3NhwV3QJxzqAcLKv5Tx_P-56AxZmgR0GABP9IIwVbX_T8PKLi5UkVE5SvnItTt1NR7InON-RYpgtryfLrLLvvlT3rGn5Ce/s320/20220826_104808.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBqktPaJxBS6ubDl3PumUwvZt5zbfe4r24DHQQfsN0jUiSOVC4qXAZcL7ewKGneGQJkv5e67MnLZizyuU2yd--5Dn04EypeFhIVtO_jE2kxF9i98lcR2iJxxz94yT35XNP8Umk5nhjHxUL46vWTsaklSwXT0noa4mvIodrBS_Zpr0ki78O0Kjv0DL/s1280/20220826_105417.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBqktPaJxBS6ubDl3PumUwvZt5zbfe4r24DHQQfsN0jUiSOVC4qXAZcL7ewKGneGQJkv5e67MnLZizyuU2yd--5Dn04EypeFhIVtO_jE2kxF9i98lcR2iJxxz94yT35XNP8Umk5nhjHxUL46vWTsaklSwXT0noa4mvIodrBS_Zpr0ki78O0Kjv0DL/s320/20220826_105417.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc5gIbqtdMyBPjgmV2T19va9bIkcHF8rxHTFsQVlpmVALcOjXXnXGHod9f1cwIqDKrfpphynth5TYwwLaivz9zleFcEJlYYF0026WGJiom68mu1kCGbiQ7jlVFbNp1LiAy3aZffMsJzMUTRjIBT60GB7PV55QNJJwxYFCgG99MZ5A3FHGY7qxuFnSG/s1280/20220826_105551.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc5gIbqtdMyBPjgmV2T19va9bIkcHF8rxHTFsQVlpmVALcOjXXnXGHod9f1cwIqDKrfpphynth5TYwwLaivz9zleFcEJlYYF0026WGJiom68mu1kCGbiQ7jlVFbNp1LiAy3aZffMsJzMUTRjIBT60GB7PV55QNJJwxYFCgG99MZ5A3FHGY7qxuFnSG/s320/20220826_105551.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPzM8nhftkG5N3lmYnoGwz9zHrX-g13HZCGzCYVMCy-u5lrKZKKZad1Iku1QKEgLYoRuJWHTL7uU_y_38D-Nq8dPAYCY9VpdJAAAwrB4ujLNtgJlyZgqUX2MN2Td_GUfIgy6MkQF12ul79mxBjKnR-_niFkjAjKr3TU25KpROjp3QxE9vsfTFNVxey/s1280/20220826_105553.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPzM8nhftkG5N3lmYnoGwz9zHrX-g13HZCGzCYVMCy-u5lrKZKKZad1Iku1QKEgLYoRuJWHTL7uU_y_38D-Nq8dPAYCY9VpdJAAAwrB4ujLNtgJlyZgqUX2MN2Td_GUfIgy6MkQF12ul79mxBjKnR-_niFkjAjKr3TU25KpROjp3QxE9vsfTFNVxey/s320/20220826_105553.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswl1ptjwJUyBw7jdRJbNgHR8I_ybHpUVDyExQTQywIbnqBiOYo1J9mHJxPk0wOXezHrNVByk914OYtCqYjoWAobXHPD_R4u_M8Gg9hzRogIh7pikT3UqQhgOzHlMhjZ99B-ic4yza_GBeblTbruS1qyjPf1dTjiml7riEuBpCfI7315xQp19Xqc7F/s1280/20220826_105605.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswl1ptjwJUyBw7jdRJbNgHR8I_ybHpUVDyExQTQywIbnqBiOYo1J9mHJxPk0wOXezHrNVByk914OYtCqYjoWAobXHPD_R4u_M8Gg9hzRogIh7pikT3UqQhgOzHlMhjZ99B-ic4yza_GBeblTbruS1qyjPf1dTjiml7riEuBpCfI7315xQp19Xqc7F/s320/20220826_105605.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gli ultimi pueblos sono quasi città fantasma, con due o tre persone rimaste e una chiesa. Il resto son edifici abbandonati, alberghi chiusi da decenni e persino una scuola spettacolo tristissimo, ridotta a mura colorate, banchi arrugginiti e un tetto crollato su ciò che resta,</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj29PaKmpTA3TvQrvAvz40qiIeSf3ROF2WL9qUdhLAoee4E54qYjVTTjWr1QRJOG5omlyQLRmASG-WJnxdGXIAi8RLFCIM1IzJcLKZ6k3SYSMvwPtMPFdwpCyw-f2rXMLgfxKt5mA3P-1a4JmaM0AQ0mvoYLVpjZM21wwj9vOaldKnXQuqk5dce-ago/s1280/20220826_105833(0).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj29PaKmpTA3TvQrvAvz40qiIeSf3ROF2WL9qUdhLAoee4E54qYjVTTjWr1QRJOG5omlyQLRmASG-WJnxdGXIAi8RLFCIM1IzJcLKZ6k3SYSMvwPtMPFdwpCyw-f2rXMLgfxKt5mA3P-1a4JmaM0AQ0mvoYLVpjZM21wwj9vOaldKnXQuqk5dce-ago/s320/20220826_105833(0).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Si chiude così la valle del Tarma e la strada impenna. Ricompaiono gli alpachini, che da tempo non si vedevano. Sono il chiaro spirito del luogo. Siamo di nuovo nella pancia della cordigliera andina.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJfFx6k_nImYxwc2IbZqiAbdjx3MVbGByQ-K5LxeakceWlYaTWnZ3Ktw9eM-J2syZR_Q6WmxlNz9Nrkj2upHVc8VMT1ns2vDse1UMD8eAwrWFC5tmS196u-TgZEX7mjKDZ_4ESVk6Dx3kVvMKaHP5RaC7YJvd0Pnv6wuwwj2YNv764XXoq5K-rlNxE/s1280/20220826_110438.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJfFx6k_nImYxwc2IbZqiAbdjx3MVbGByQ-K5LxeakceWlYaTWnZ3Ktw9eM-J2syZR_Q6WmxlNz9Nrkj2upHVc8VMT1ns2vDse1UMD8eAwrWFC5tmS196u-TgZEX7mjKDZ_4ESVk6Dx3kVvMKaHP5RaC7YJvd0Pnv6wuwwj2YNv764XXoq5K-rlNxE/s320/20220826_110438.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZlAJXGKaby2VJJOtVaJCnAd_OVGw_dWxMMa2gkCGIMxLZoCd4i_ynyQFrFhqxSy7gE-iKhJUacA2tXYKK7MRSgDmsGRuU4cLNxj08rvKX8Xfq7F4fp3vtgODSBHS62XVtK9a8qp0eJEY8hdYn7AnrqIomqIU7EeJ8uNo6mp2ULKErVvg7IvJWLy0R/s1280/20220826_111117.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZlAJXGKaby2VJJOtVaJCnAd_OVGw_dWxMMa2gkCGIMxLZoCd4i_ynyQFrFhqxSy7gE-iKhJUacA2tXYKK7MRSgDmsGRuU4cLNxj08rvKX8Xfq7F4fp3vtgODSBHS62XVtK9a8qp0eJEY8hdYn7AnrqIomqIU7EeJ8uNo6mp2ULKErVvg7IvJWLy0R/s320/20220826_111117.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I primi tornanti ci tolgono il già poco fiato. Il corpo non si è ancora abituato all'altura, ma conviene lo faccia in fretta. Spariscono gli alberi, se non i resistenti eucalipti. Il rigoglioso tripudio di fiori e frutta si trasforma in sasso, ghiaia, roccione.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYV00lAKpQT1MCa_IpYwVZbR9cy4_SmfzxNiuSak3RlE7tu1qDnfSUUJweRofUNrFG4vlrgRoNmFOjFTGIW_6NdSPAKw5Ds4Qmosidg3QUjh5G8BZBC_L3sdiVmSSjPduaDSyC7ZKSZmFZa5ff26mX6KdVwgjNVBIiMiLFGa93KIeLuQwdhFybKAjJ/s1280/20220826_112022.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYV00lAKpQT1MCa_IpYwVZbR9cy4_SmfzxNiuSak3RlE7tu1qDnfSUUJweRofUNrFG4vlrgRoNmFOjFTGIW_6NdSPAKw5Ds4Qmosidg3QUjh5G8BZBC_L3sdiVmSSjPduaDSyC7ZKSZmFZa5ff26mX6KdVwgjNVBIiMiLFGa93KIeLuQwdhFybKAjJ/s320/20220826_112022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlh75aaF7UE3l2heHyhlYLc3xvMGIlSBNz5nQrVwK9TuSwFbQTRe_RI_Oqmzi1IAbXTREHFWytPr-2uFvEvAve_6VN-75jttw2ijuShxikIJeu4iaBqUqvXjHK-pL8_lWKcBb3EFjGpHq3IEIujtFhvIatTi-P1ZPZQGPnihQ40qo0c6i30ardCJL/s1280/20220826_112030.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQlh75aaF7UE3l2heHyhlYLc3xvMGIlSBNz5nQrVwK9TuSwFbQTRe_RI_Oqmzi1IAbXTREHFWytPr-2uFvEvAve_6VN-75jttw2ijuShxikIJeu4iaBqUqvXjHK-pL8_lWKcBb3EFjGpHq3IEIujtFhvIatTi-P1ZPZQGPnihQ40qo0c6i30ardCJL/s320/20220826_112030.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Salendo incrociamo un cammino precolombiano che ancora oggi si può percorrere come trekking, stile Inca trail.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh14TEGbip7EH_GKJ1YfQdQYZO_eYeFfA1P07xSswe4-Vv9sTOzzD5p5FltdmxbE_jOJKu4M1bjIjUwSVbkdV9Zh7n-EIe4aGYJwGoN3iHa7aVfvj25bk7-s2J4cFraa7ugTDQ71Kc20fTdh1B4fkAth-sDz4nNO0qhk0Oo4O7HPLI5daWdTAmEZRVf/s1280/20220826_114026.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh14TEGbip7EH_GKJ1YfQdQYZO_eYeFfA1P07xSswe4-Vv9sTOzzD5p5FltdmxbE_jOJKu4M1bjIjUwSVbkdV9Zh7n-EIe4aGYJwGoN3iHa7aVfvj25bk7-s2J4cFraa7ugTDQ71Kc20fTdh1B4fkAth-sDz4nNO0qhk0Oo4O7HPLI5daWdTAmEZRVf/s320/20220826_114026.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noi siamo già abbastanza indaffarati nel portarci su e su, curva dopo curva, tornante dopo tornante. Il vento, salomonico, ora ci aiuta, ora ci sputa in faccia, a seconda della direzione che la strada prende nel continuo zigzag.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUSCbD5EKxt45NLNBPq_pAcySgnxoPYgYwuzUBmvyIbm85SvkmZjQLASakX98MtwBSB9q8coDbtyzVwprVfWAUIJ4o_zJg8qKHMfDbGh-OkuBt-2WrZ5mB3S2r_vsxhGOip8JCfwrB4aBQB4DqDDi_SeVQp8Pt0ZB4FjgB183AYLLlPb6mEnHeeLOz/s1280/20220826_114033.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUSCbD5EKxt45NLNBPq_pAcySgnxoPYgYwuzUBmvyIbm85SvkmZjQLASakX98MtwBSB9q8coDbtyzVwprVfWAUIJ4o_zJg8qKHMfDbGh-OkuBt-2WrZ5mB3S2r_vsxhGOip8JCfwrB4aBQB4DqDDi_SeVQp8Pt0ZB4FjgB183AYLLlPb6mEnHeeLOz/s320/20220826_114033.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOJvNNo6jStlHzuUcI7RCvQg9g1euWaVxqCTQKZhN3s5My3QO87rE_-GPzbKIRvjFe7C_-du8OGkRnglPkYL_rWSV14DplOlGRcyC-iXAZ0PNSOE8Z2EuAUAn2ORXg2R3h3bd6ITLfTlnm8caXM6URk04ryjWLa8SAb-OZ8nDhTLw8lfAWukKLsSU/s1280/20220826_114957.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZOJvNNo6jStlHzuUcI7RCvQg9g1euWaVxqCTQKZhN3s5My3QO87rE_-GPzbKIRvjFe7C_-du8OGkRnglPkYL_rWSV14DplOlGRcyC-iXAZ0PNSOE8Z2EuAUAn2ORXg2R3h3bd6ITLfTlnm8caXM6URk04ryjWLa8SAb-OZ8nDhTLw8lfAWukKLsSU/s320/20220826_114957.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Gigi procede spedito, io mi sento svenire ad ogni giro di pedale. A quota 4000 inizia a uscirmi sangue dal naso, e la situazione un po' migliora. La pressione si autoregola così, probabilmente. Passo passo mi abituo ai respiri regolari e frequenti che l'ossigeno rarefatto richiede. Bisogna andare piano. Non avere fretta. E' la montagna a decidere il tempo, il come, il quando, il quanto a lungo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGh_wHY-LgOMUG8URoaQAlNjCbhnreUmGILRMQJddJ3kd2NSHOg5SM3B1LS8Vbg7YEMRiKzIA41i0U_zQakZzyvDW6ASAfXu91sWQrOnTN3dEkKOzKFeM6zPjDqcFKO78eoXiUL6OsEiGqCgKRh74lAoSSPHFZQP5YX6ohVP8jhVzld3_DTJKS21o/s1280/20220826_115005.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGh_wHY-LgOMUG8URoaQAlNjCbhnreUmGILRMQJddJ3kd2NSHOg5SM3B1LS8Vbg7YEMRiKzIA41i0U_zQakZzyvDW6ASAfXu91sWQrOnTN3dEkKOzKFeM6zPjDqcFKO78eoXiUL6OsEiGqCgKRh74lAoSSPHFZQP5YX6ohVP8jhVzld3_DTJKS21o/s320/20220826_115005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdtWUxKSW6QrKP5Ecg4s3lLEwPDbJMGqhDKB8xNa529S1xL27x8-oD2YaLF-AU8COkj8Kgndc9o8shqcYZIBFK7J9vMQnqKq1IT1xKYnZRfEeMqVBBGX1OXVNvqAxr0sDDkV4BNY0pVPNvL1cNm_yXmumPqqH5n3BIYI_ty2CPBoCK5vZcDztddzf/s1280/20220826_115011.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdtWUxKSW6QrKP5Ecg4s3lLEwPDbJMGqhDKB8xNa529S1xL27x8-oD2YaLF-AU8COkj8Kgndc9o8shqcYZIBFK7J9vMQnqKq1IT1xKYnZRfEeMqVBBGX1OXVNvqAxr0sDDkV4BNY0pVPNvL1cNm_yXmumPqqH5n3BIYI_ty2CPBoCK5vZcDztddzf/s320/20220826_115011.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCmRyKEhHvfcrBJzO5nJU95bmGavuQ4N4R-p7cxXOlUfc3h1E8EGekjaBJAdvPelDn5rY8xoUtOQv3FU7MJZ5OYGRmMwlTQDTdqkEZQEFeyZOyaPpIlJ4mNZbIUFrdXjVXf651Oe-8EY9FMldt3bySOZJle337FzL60UlS-oaQBpPPwKKeY6ZNtB8g/s1280/20220826_115122.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCmRyKEhHvfcrBJzO5nJU95bmGavuQ4N4R-p7cxXOlUfc3h1E8EGekjaBJAdvPelDn5rY8xoUtOQv3FU7MJZ5OYGRmMwlTQDTdqkEZQEFeyZOyaPpIlJ4mNZbIUFrdXjVXf651Oe-8EY9FMldt3bySOZJle337FzL60UlS-oaQBpPPwKKeY6ZNtB8g/s320/20220826_115122.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS37pIF1fA85UZaafKEsfKqoLdxMdilSKZRNA7csfdTNcDHp1ygTDAGijigqyCykZlWR4lyYOVLt4iGmUgRl4qMMjd0-dh5bhw2V_bNLZzki2SoOEFIUQfvuBuKIZjlnXDD-XzzUyqH-2k8LigCFsVI76RObq4CFzrvz17hQxISHOD4G8gPKZtuJMh/s1280/20220826_115134.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS37pIF1fA85UZaafKEsfKqoLdxMdilSKZRNA7csfdTNcDHp1ygTDAGijigqyCykZlWR4lyYOVLt4iGmUgRl4qMMjd0-dh5bhw2V_bNLZzki2SoOEFIUQfvuBuKIZjlnXDD-XzzUyqH-2k8LigCFsVI76RObq4CFzrvz17hQxISHOD4G8gPKZtuJMh/s320/20220826_115134.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Al kilometro 15 siamo già abbastanza cotti e approfittiamo della presenza di un paesino per una sosta. In realtà il pueblo resta in basso rispetto alla strada, ma una signora andina sopperisce alla mancanza di servizi con il suo bel mototaxi parcheggiato a bordo strada, ricolmo di leccornie caserecce: pane, formaggio, frutta secca. Lei sferruzza, ci vede arrivare, resta impassibile. Forse un po' intimorita, forse no. Quando vede che ci avviciniamo per comprare, si apre in un largo sorriso e poi ci invita a riposarci un po'. Poco prima un'anziana in abiti tradizionali che raccoglieva erbe in un campo mi ha detto: "Senorita! Se va a cansar!" (signorina, ti stancherai!). Ma no? Davvero?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6w7zsnTbXnEA-WDmEpVRusevRnVW_z8rilEMt6FbHqsGpAQ-Tf4Aifsctegrimtr-093AwUmt_-ZHe1l10wEiLj5VybFnqCNUXhoesBZ4klzLmVfLiG38Ohw0GcMlg8233oJB6bxJ0IgYNU-Cmv-jkR4GX-os8INlm8c9PNPiLiNQUUOAGi-BGHO/s1280/20220826_120257.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6w7zsnTbXnEA-WDmEpVRusevRnVW_z8rilEMt6FbHqsGpAQ-Tf4Aifsctegrimtr-093AwUmt_-ZHe1l10wEiLj5VybFnqCNUXhoesBZ4klzLmVfLiG38Ohw0GcMlg8233oJB6bxJ0IgYNU-Cmv-jkR4GX-os8INlm8c9PNPiLiNQUUOAGi-BGHO/s320/20220826_120257.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBmWOdfTcD9tZwXX7NmKivnOdqK3R6MQCztrhzR2vPRoDO_EG1zBXZ8gY39PWBM2SgS1h39I2HiflziynPX67R8Ui1Hb3pIuiA1lUv1KlD4yLUUoOTm-7M3B2jQT-e6vYNWjDG3u7nHaA_IqpNsvZluS3z6Ube46j37ZpnDOSdSEVAEPqcH9xvkyI/s1280/20220826_120300.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBmWOdfTcD9tZwXX7NmKivnOdqK3R6MQCztrhzR2vPRoDO_EG1zBXZ8gY39PWBM2SgS1h39I2HiflziynPX67R8Ui1Hb3pIuiA1lUv1KlD4yLUUoOTm-7M3B2jQT-e6vYNWjDG3u7nHaA_IqpNsvZluS3z6Ube46j37ZpnDOSdSEVAEPqcH9xvkyI/s320/20220826_120300.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9yrKiGpz5BlsO-wkhzcEjzXg5SXFylLOjZTIOqDlMLGje7zvIlIEqCN3FJKDIaqkyT4Qy-0fxLr3_9n6XI4K46i8ZIyFel8-V8Sp29etysDiZnPsTRtPFUQcI_3BCnTkysLtBlXzoMdT66YIBveIf2OGpG7DQ-XuxoPCcf0h9Uy3kWyFPPal4-jV1/s1280/20220826_122002.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9yrKiGpz5BlsO-wkhzcEjzXg5SXFylLOjZTIOqDlMLGje7zvIlIEqCN3FJKDIaqkyT4Qy-0fxLr3_9n6XI4K46i8ZIyFel8-V8Sp29etysDiZnPsTRtPFUQcI_3BCnTkysLtBlXzoMdT66YIBveIf2OGpG7DQ-XuxoPCcf0h9Uy3kWyFPPal4-jV1/s320/20220826_122002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dalla sosta sappiamo che mancano ancora 11km di salita, prima di scollinare e scendere dall'altra parte... Dove ricomincia la salita. Qui fa ridere perchè ti chiedono: da dove vieni? E se non conoscono il nome della città di partenza della tappa, la seconda domanda è: vieni dalla salita? E la risposta è sempre sì, in ogni caso. Si viene dalla salita e si va alla salita. Così son le Ande.</div><div><br /></div><div>Ripartiamo e ci lasciamo alle spalle anche gli ultimi rari baraccamenti di pastori, abitati più che altro da burri raglianti e agnelli minuscoli.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAoCphRdIgVMPzJoHunzOwKnRxxvkl-asp_P4kdzGu5PxFivEHZzgmnh5vuXqWAch4MwQpiidEXumhio6bodbVfSmlAlZJnMID75n3xjJBN59674xR77yQi2xZ7QPZ6KgvI1TFUXLL1jVlBfWHkhXIJK0fpGqkteJTox8LUjhdaIQ7W8AvRwU_XCkN/s1280/20220826_125758.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAoCphRdIgVMPzJoHunzOwKnRxxvkl-asp_P4kdzGu5PxFivEHZzgmnh5vuXqWAch4MwQpiidEXumhio6bodbVfSmlAlZJnMID75n3xjJBN59674xR77yQi2xZ7QPZ6KgvI1TFUXLL1jVlBfWHkhXIJK0fpGqkteJTox8LUjhdaIQ7W8AvRwU_XCkN/s320/20220826_125758.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCvc4TpBquc36qMV1AtVdYfZ7U6o8oXhFrEjzH2SS1TIqH_SCxmoOGF7KFcJgvKStDgsyfcXzyBlISqtc0rxa2HYWOxcXirgvO0mF3XvQzFCk6lAs3RF_V83t8ysWJmrH1le-AZwC3c9vXF-PK4McLBYH4n8_Gw7SykQ_lM9vaiDpEVzos4HMcph_/s1280/20220826_125804.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCvc4TpBquc36qMV1AtVdYfZ7U6o8oXhFrEjzH2SS1TIqH_SCxmoOGF7KFcJgvKStDgsyfcXzyBlISqtc0rxa2HYWOxcXirgvO0mF3XvQzFCk6lAs3RF_V83t8ysWJmrH1le-AZwC3c9vXF-PK4McLBYH4n8_Gw7SykQ_lM9vaiDpEVzos4HMcph_/s320/20220826_125804.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-NujVzuk7oKVgCTMYhjPpsuRcv667xUPH3KMYXWgXwb-E6IUGPpiMHsSwWPjB-mdHzLLM2naa0X_PjWaS6QsDK_lS5MCeiERJTQxOx_t172TA0PrN974ukTQqd4VM_qM6L13iGjVJ_hqnCF2ES6j0RXesWGOiwvrbY3K50SCjl58KgeGuixL8Qd3/s1280/20220826_130119.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-NujVzuk7oKVgCTMYhjPpsuRcv667xUPH3KMYXWgXwb-E6IUGPpiMHsSwWPjB-mdHzLLM2naa0X_PjWaS6QsDK_lS5MCeiERJTQxOx_t172TA0PrN974ukTQqd4VM_qM6L13iGjVJ_hqnCF2ES6j0RXesWGOiwvrbY3K50SCjl58KgeGuixL8Qd3/s320/20220826_130119.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZXc0xtuEKVqtm-FZBJtcJSzo2q66FHxG2ICvADgJRyx4nL1XEztqwKa_1myYIt-KazcjhDrqd2oRsS5DlnlEkaYP4eJnLRQYf4klYN4U-KN91Os9F-a_jxf5zeIwDDOVy-_nMOIIjM8vWy8yoAKRBeO-Ze39FWU54xOBFgSBsUHo_ODnkbRwNaJX/s1280/20220826_130139.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZXc0xtuEKVqtm-FZBJtcJSzo2q66FHxG2ICvADgJRyx4nL1XEztqwKa_1myYIt-KazcjhDrqd2oRsS5DlnlEkaYP4eJnLRQYf4klYN4U-KN91Os9F-a_jxf5zeIwDDOVy-_nMOIIjM8vWy8yoAKRBeO-Ze39FWU54xOBFgSBsUHo_ODnkbRwNaJX/s320/20220826_130139.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per quanto si salga, la strada corre sempre più in alto, e la si intravede, e si intuisce il percorso; inevitabile calcolare a mente quanto tempo ancora ci vorrà, e quanta fatica per trascinarsi fino in cima.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNooGO8vi2SyiiSE5Tb1xRLIKmNcCbwO60GvE6ab9G_JgyI59q77bapf0ysBJXx6ysvRjiUCEAsbOHO96dfopZ1g-paC4d5SD-ixnSwvXNvUnN0qYBedXqOFocCeKwxT82xzMT1rLGJSAp1BkYLGSOW5UHjy7lgIXzLj4R_f_KnIPO2tyI781VHXJo/s1280/20220826_130141.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNooGO8vi2SyiiSE5Tb1xRLIKmNcCbwO60GvE6ab9G_JgyI59q77bapf0ysBJXx6ysvRjiUCEAsbOHO96dfopZ1g-paC4d5SD-ixnSwvXNvUnN0qYBedXqOFocCeKwxT82xzMT1rLGJSAp1BkYLGSOW5UHjy7lgIXzLj4R_f_KnIPO2tyI781VHXJo/s320/20220826_130141.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi però si comincia a intravedere la valle dal suo punto più alto, e i tornanti si contano sulle dita di una mano. Non manca molto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7F9sKKqGg0qXIVdqME4T2nJsWFjnCFwo3xPk0iTUhpvgJ_KKaCWZe2R-FF0tXrQVvtVnHUXNU25PR4J25mFkfZQ-lYScaJ2zLKgeCeV-KvFF8Z82udlLn80xGCutMpMem8kKJ2bwLJZgQnEN-m4Sm__bNdK_s3qcwCRFiHBZnezrfT68_Fm_zbxh/s1280/20220826_134737.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7F9sKKqGg0qXIVdqME4T2nJsWFjnCFwo3xPk0iTUhpvgJ_KKaCWZe2R-FF0tXrQVvtVnHUXNU25PR4J25mFkfZQ-lYScaJ2zLKgeCeV-KvFF8Z82udlLn80xGCutMpMem8kKJ2bwLJZgQnEN-m4Sm__bNdK_s3qcwCRFiHBZnezrfT68_Fm_zbxh/s320/20220826_134737.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjueLqpLWxoy9zd90UW053C-4jK3vJQLbepEiP126zFESO1aU8sTE5PUXXEAAZMMJ1ISBK0PVn9JlJ7afYhsCYLgmCWw8lpfpgkNzuihEE-FqAHPicHy0rFRoawLh3VqSy-2oLXFUUDyccIKbpm-4phB72Wnk9P-P84B-CSTW90PnVByF3jBlSfRkzG/s1280/20220826_135105.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjueLqpLWxoy9zd90UW053C-4jK3vJQLbepEiP126zFESO1aU8sTE5PUXXEAAZMMJ1ISBK0PVn9JlJ7afYhsCYLgmCWw8lpfpgkNzuihEE-FqAHPicHy0rFRoawLh3VqSy-2oLXFUUDyccIKbpm-4phB72Wnk9P-P84B-CSTW90PnVByF3jBlSfRkzG/s320/20220826_135105.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">E infatti eccoci. Alcune casupole di fango e paglia indicano che siamo quasi giunti al passo, che non è neanche un passo, e non ha un nome, nè un cartello. E' solo il punto più alto della nostra giornata, la svolta, il giro di boa. 4220m. Da qui si scende di nuovo a 3800. A risalire ci penderemo domani (e dopo).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JlGcEuEBeADXfh9nLDdtySiHjCbZK4RAM4GzRmhzZNS8R8pc1_4XSEZXw6l26hyX5E3XXNkPH5uztEqEqs4gG_AZRBJAspsoYlSzLNRdd7Dnu76X3y59FRt4TKN--ae_-yeZhBCCQDHEv5FMq37qyDRRce2mMdlmtFECNTtMZ0uXrZx4QJzSFG7D/s1280/20220826_142658.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JlGcEuEBeADXfh9nLDdtySiHjCbZK4RAM4GzRmhzZNS8R8pc1_4XSEZXw6l26hyX5E3XXNkPH5uztEqEqs4gG_AZRBJAspsoYlSzLNRdd7Dnu76X3y59FRt4TKN--ae_-yeZhBCCQDHEv5FMq37qyDRRce2mMdlmtFECNTtMZ0uXrZx4QJzSFG7D/s320/20220826_142658.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3W446WE4YI0ZfqUkk7WwVYz8nQSicIEfq9Z7bvoO2gyAtrWt4byD5nNY6yJ6XP4AP8JGKOz5Gu79b5BRZP25y0ICqeELSlj8IYwHfY_FKP8qSRBxVU1KMbCMdEUGmNX_2_QpFk9KDDXciX1t_f8bg6EdIMPAQJmLed08xpR4jO1pXhXbXI-0lSOy1/s1280/20220826_142748.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3W446WE4YI0ZfqUkk7WwVYz8nQSicIEfq9Z7bvoO2gyAtrWt4byD5nNY6yJ6XP4AP8JGKOz5Gu79b5BRZP25y0ICqeELSlj8IYwHfY_FKP8qSRBxVU1KMbCMdEUGmNX_2_QpFk9KDDXciX1t_f8bg6EdIMPAQJmLed08xpR4jO1pXhXbXI-0lSOy1/s320/20220826_142748.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdb1bHBSOnznLDFUvaQXjwiANPjVpgon0lU4vUSlNj3iMSsAUUFcaokLHRA1MfNHeBhTWpjheYw6NtBMEq6HQmMnHJhpNiM04sfTCyNmP6Vv70LAnA-XAM2kbcLNv6O8P-uxNcGMYYCek5p0f8GIK2RLe8d7uEkP_s52hDdnsxeDbnXBne6VTd-50/s1280/20220826_142803.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdb1bHBSOnznLDFUvaQXjwiANPjVpgon0lU4vUSlNj3iMSsAUUFcaokLHRA1MfNHeBhTWpjheYw6NtBMEq6HQmMnHJhpNiM04sfTCyNmP6Vv70LAnA-XAM2kbcLNv6O8P-uxNcGMYYCek5p0f8GIK2RLe8d7uEkP_s52hDdnsxeDbnXBne6VTd-50/s320/20220826_142803.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBLKqS_HSj1o_g5seSXRh1U7x7M-lXNk3FHWMh0G5Cr1TZ0MgJTW_y1o8xWeXWtZDYUSQpMDduWRUwjyqM6JwPTcelPsaJJE6E3DBRN3iX_IVwRLAOsOVF1zKUkr1ZDfDhtcS8d-A9gXdas7LZC0C5QGkFrEB6Vetwu5Lt75YDX2j1-7S_mrHbOT6/s1280/20220826_142806.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBLKqS_HSj1o_g5seSXRh1U7x7M-lXNk3FHWMh0G5Cr1TZ0MgJTW_y1o8xWeXWtZDYUSQpMDduWRUwjyqM6JwPTcelPsaJJE6E3DBRN3iX_IVwRLAOsOVF1zKUkr1ZDfDhtcS8d-A9gXdas7LZC0C5QGkFrEB6Vetwu5Lt75YDX2j1-7S_mrHbOT6/s320/20220826_142806.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1DXllx2n4Juo0NW6UJrS6RK_Sn7XWHS0wk1bUBAPCI_K4StH0lnEELAcdk36TUZpJxa-4vFdM1U40vZ-PRVbr1ZjV41GqmQrqroXvA9nl1zQrGBhCFAHmMV20GwFDb7tFKgHEQupAHqI6vbrQJp37CRApo0N3QktmQn1RxljvGQxCr4cEz4-1_UJz/s1280/20220826_143107.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1DXllx2n4Juo0NW6UJrS6RK_Sn7XWHS0wk1bUBAPCI_K4StH0lnEELAcdk36TUZpJxa-4vFdM1U40vZ-PRVbr1ZjV41GqmQrqroXvA9nl1zQrGBhCFAHmMV20GwFDb7tFKgHEQupAHqI6vbrQJp37CRApo0N3QktmQn1RxljvGQxCr4cEz4-1_UJz/s320/20220826_143107.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In questo pueblo che sembra uscito da uno scenario post-apocalittico o da un western, facciamo sosta per celebrare l'inizio della discesa. L'unica capannina che vende qualcosa è gestita da quella che pare l'unica signora del paese, che mastica un bolo di coca così grosso da non riuscire a parlare. I prezzi sono indicati con le dita.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMw1J_92Z8AS_hDjSCJoI5gaTPYD3cljNMAVlbmgCqnzHTM-DbXU6-tAGiJRByOgVoT8zMLt4URu9N_96QfpRAX7D9O7hxDevZTV5EA0SDLqUhlbD38uKj90pwlatgQTTh9tEvpfyJDO_gISoqeiSeEhTgUvYNiNZXkjO5pVMOQ8RVCVxledtZ9j7/s1280/20220826_143114.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMw1J_92Z8AS_hDjSCJoI5gaTPYD3cljNMAVlbmgCqnzHTM-DbXU6-tAGiJRByOgVoT8zMLt4URu9N_96QfpRAX7D9O7hxDevZTV5EA0SDLqUhlbD38uKj90pwlatgQTTh9tEvpfyJDO_gISoqeiSeEhTgUvYNiNZXkjO5pVMOQ8RVCVxledtZ9j7/s320/20220826_143114.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhptuEuATfS5JqM0cOK36V28KwCkKbYdqEn0JfJHP8eqrEsGgpu9UWShy-QQbivTFSLY73ren-IemE2gcxvcrlvSzftEYUt3cBuuHHaW2i0_8Cj27DzW32T7o_ueF04MolsmTr2NBa5iN5aSF1ldrXGy0KBI2kO96M19InY5juwKZW4Pt6_rgHfkEEK/s1280/20220826_143126.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhptuEuATfS5JqM0cOK36V28KwCkKbYdqEn0JfJHP8eqrEsGgpu9UWShy-QQbivTFSLY73ren-IemE2gcxvcrlvSzftEYUt3cBuuHHaW2i0_8Cj27DzW32T7o_ueF04MolsmTr2NBa5iN5aSF1ldrXGy0KBI2kO96M19InY5juwKZW4Pt6_rgHfkEEK/s320/20220826_143126.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijs05tZ28nErhx1_yDxQ4II93dr5nUkuIq_NSDugRuHQGn7K2QfPcwUSGBiV2xZskGKS9oEfUE4TmAxOEi8e8zWWBYV0ET1KX0xx3KlkAqvv8bJa6s0yujueTzzRE3VDFDaZMAo9cg3UTqEnYvRPsJQpWJBT9RqhjR1yRdpNz2EMM0wi6KA-uMT2fS/s1280/20220826_143133.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijs05tZ28nErhx1_yDxQ4II93dr5nUkuIq_NSDugRuHQGn7K2QfPcwUSGBiV2xZskGKS9oEfUE4TmAxOEi8e8zWWBYV0ET1KX0xx3KlkAqvv8bJa6s0yujueTzzRE3VDFDaZMAo9cg3UTqEnYvRPsJQpWJBT9RqhjR1yRdpNz2EMM0wi6KA-uMT2fS/s320/20220826_143133.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci sediamo al sole, al riparo dal vento freddo, con i perri cansadi. Dobbiamo coprirci e indossare l'invernale completo, perchè quassù fa ben fresco e a scendere ne farà ancora di più.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujI2yFWqihyr1AM1hlDgFdpZPImUlKqCQWzSs4SP50M_0gEcqkEXzAqC4WQy7aARWnZxamnFaxSwf6LkCc6TasddhHCZCrCph8qCN0J1uQ5vRP0AkMOiXX3ShE3U4vCh_NzDlXIqzBNIBjKKUnnKmTs6JGwOYyASUUb4uYnLEUhkgCFJCzjFmKKau/s1280/20220826_143437.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujI2yFWqihyr1AM1hlDgFdpZPImUlKqCQWzSs4SP50M_0gEcqkEXzAqC4WQy7aARWnZxamnFaxSwf6LkCc6TasddhHCZCrCph8qCN0J1uQ5vRP0AkMOiXX3ShE3U4vCh_NzDlXIqzBNIBjKKUnnKmTs6JGwOYyASUUb4uYnLEUhkgCFJCzjFmKKau/s320/20220826_143437.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Però che goduria. La lunga, non troppo ripida, ampia, liscissima discesa. Intorno prima il paesaggio arido e vasto dell'altiplano, steso al sole che già un po' sta calando.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia74nPaGIV8kUibgXfr3RqVL6_DUko8mpyqzdOlYpDX41RsfAmXW79sF_KanK0GLvvGHXvGOKnc9VOeJlwp3x8PeThyNwYEzJB2kVjUqi03eiBX0YXAeuUM3JBl_Rkt019TJhXNHBYr7hF-TvBjLSgzfNeSQkxsyZZcWyDeJREdgjseWLscQ9GbGfz/s1280/20220826_145448.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia74nPaGIV8kUibgXfr3RqVL6_DUko8mpyqzdOlYpDX41RsfAmXW79sF_KanK0GLvvGHXvGOKnc9VOeJlwp3x8PeThyNwYEzJB2kVjUqi03eiBX0YXAeuUM3JBl_Rkt019TJhXNHBYr7hF-TvBjLSgzfNeSQkxsyZZcWyDeJREdgjseWLscQ9GbGfz/s320/20220826_145448.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdca6uZGoQPhYfKXCkvhUP4kaaWu41CBQgibr-kocz-dVWpNz992usVwRv2tXcSnnvDu06dwHUUu33SLoYm9HDGolz76rSqUS9Xd524FrsWAqfDoG3NnnckzdHLwB2pnc6OjDPcvhoD2mU2c9tL5B7Jlx2nlnJctlL98UoypXWK6r0YF5vG3kbE2h/s1280/20220826_145451.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdca6uZGoQPhYfKXCkvhUP4kaaWu41CBQgibr-kocz-dVWpNz992usVwRv2tXcSnnvDu06dwHUUu33SLoYm9HDGolz76rSqUS9Xd524FrsWAqfDoG3NnnckzdHLwB2pnc6OjDPcvhoD2mU2c9tL5B7Jlx2nlnJctlL98UoypXWK6r0YF5vG3kbE2h/s320/20220826_145451.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfW_I17giiu_toFceKh0wkCUxN8t9K3-3rSfLTHMNxAZn2WoM9JexeWzB5SESurJanQaz2nJqeeuYldwMRbWUlDSmqwO3Ck9X22j6_Kb5D2tzjZxggjk5-dNjF-Xmrq0_D3heVOdQ3-9uZ5g5Zpc9mhkEO6ALYdsKvbnSW0-XpuydpXZk1GWK3lqt/s1280/20220826_145454.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLfW_I17giiu_toFceKh0wkCUxN8t9K3-3rSfLTHMNxAZn2WoM9JexeWzB5SESurJanQaz2nJqeeuYldwMRbWUlDSmqwO3Ck9X22j6_Kb5D2tzjZxggjk5-dNjF-Xmrq0_D3heVOdQ3-9uZ5g5Zpc9mhkEO6ALYdsKvbnSW0-XpuydpXZk1GWK3lqt/s320/20220826_145454.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy-kjdA43naDAAk4t5dBw-tO46dATgsp4BFFPT0dBU3vkiPc1FLyVLv-mLgUDfsc2mE9WXR-J2bdGjNpodwjIw9234AOrn0w1hxXyC4XlDmSJz9-TdJPsjG2aRsi1yudF1SdVfOMm8wLMQAv-R1wlIgg51Wa7msItYA3KJ_vnmetUcaw-a5nVxDR5D/s1280/20220826_150113(0).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy-kjdA43naDAAk4t5dBw-tO46dATgsp4BFFPT0dBU3vkiPc1FLyVLv-mLgUDfsc2mE9WXR-J2bdGjNpodwjIw9234AOrn0w1hxXyC4XlDmSJz9-TdJPsjG2aRsi1yudF1SdVfOMm8wLMQAv-R1wlIgg51Wa7msItYA3KJ_vnmetUcaw-a5nVxDR5D/s320/20220826_150113(0).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Davanti a noi altri monti, a strati, accavallati, quasi sovrapposti nella distanza. Eccoci nel mezzo. Nel centro della spina dorsale di un continente.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGKyYg88WgrpU1u21y6dL73pYhWE2LqFFYoY-qUEVQAfTFs7RU2deSv-Ec_WuQ6naaap3EKf15zESPRXtFYir_0tmSyg_P2OA19AU_z_2anacQnoYAG-wAh9GsKC3Xwe7gjKXjITS0VPUvw5nHMkN7jf507IGOf6MjgmepqWojWlW1vrtU5Wl_31W/s1280/20220826_150134.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGKyYg88WgrpU1u21y6dL73pYhWE2LqFFYoY-qUEVQAfTFs7RU2deSv-Ec_WuQ6naaap3EKf15zESPRXtFYir_0tmSyg_P2OA19AU_z_2anacQnoYAG-wAh9GsKC3Xwe7gjKXjITS0VPUvw5nHMkN7jf507IGOf6MjgmepqWojWlW1vrtU5Wl_31W/s320/20220826_150134.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBxC2xyBbpRZtJGLHK8eXQRwZHqtcPaLqJonCweqyAdSGm3EskqLkEOLPL_64D8uaVe9mhnYG_nyqm10j6CG_WT7IeVauWLnbgTms0gloS0qaUKNFj22Lb_QzmRIq9vwK4xH8NVTzC_Blb18hTr9Wc39OLcKpVuWTc3SHei_v1RxWFvzwzJ3KGAVw8/s1280/20220826_150143.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBxC2xyBbpRZtJGLHK8eXQRwZHqtcPaLqJonCweqyAdSGm3EskqLkEOLPL_64D8uaVe9mhnYG_nyqm10j6CG_WT7IeVauWLnbgTms0gloS0qaUKNFj22Lb_QzmRIq9vwK4xH8NVTzC_Blb18hTr9Wc39OLcKpVuWTc3SHei_v1RxWFvzwzJ3KGAVw8/s320/20220826_150143.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In un soffio siamo a valle, ma dall'altra parte. Incrociamo il fiume Mantaro e la ferrovia, che è la più alta al mondo dopo quella Tibetana. Stiamo per addentrarci in una delle aree più misere, sfruttate e povere, per la gente che ci vive, di tutto il paese. Qui ci troviamo nella regione delle miniere.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Kdv_dC9zedAITnKXad5u5j9oKBBpof0a3oL6GNG8Q5sOT1Lw7NwovVPpNwnQSDaYchlgQhDR2yMVFd8_U8QwvlhdL9pr3nDQzAJk3iHqn4eb4NbqirzD6Tth2tb_CI_an6aWq0eOAOQ_fdsL2LV6Isc9-rJ7WDZANetxWVCXSHDU8VGUu9SK8Rt8/s1280/20220826_150729.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Kdv_dC9zedAITnKXad5u5j9oKBBpof0a3oL6GNG8Q5sOT1Lw7NwovVPpNwnQSDaYchlgQhDR2yMVFd8_U8QwvlhdL9pr3nDQzAJk3iHqn4eb4NbqirzD6Tth2tb_CI_an6aWq0eOAOQ_fdsL2LV6Isc9-rJ7WDZANetxWVCXSHDU8VGUu9SK8Rt8/s320/20220826_150729.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0a5rmoF7OibBuUncOZVSP0715FgBumIGtYce7TpSFMU-c0Jn3g4kqJQWT0WGJGplizhUqfXvvzv_K5XhAiwokoPZb_mP8Lii-BIJKByFBOG3LkzulPnqpxG0eTOevFm65TbvreBtWs01k6JNlWhJ3a8uMfRiCv8P0XBD7Wxrf1gFDXU5QYE7m_Uuo/s1280/20220826_150741.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0a5rmoF7OibBuUncOZVSP0715FgBumIGtYce7TpSFMU-c0Jn3g4kqJQWT0WGJGplizhUqfXvvzv_K5XhAiwokoPZb_mP8Lii-BIJKByFBOG3LkzulPnqpxG0eTOevFm65TbvreBtWs01k6JNlWhJ3a8uMfRiCv8P0XBD7Wxrf1gFDXU5QYE7m_Uuo/s320/20220826_150741.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Eppure il paesaggio, in questa luce dolce che sembra miele e glassa la pietra aguzza in cime tonde, non farebbe presagire nulla di male.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOBhIBYa-kvDwU2VRQ6LCrpde0a7A3nqUeG38bVzDLg00cychaRjkgcGTnqZhyRIYGYZY0_V0RMQphqmCGKeX9Qrc3_gyt72wnm9gWEtFy5ElgzKlNFut_j8nDFBh0Z602R1czcN_KbCxT3hy8RWnd7fSC-1AANjOELOV9TdZuKKo2bQEL7-8kaMw6/s1280/20220826_150753.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOBhIBYa-kvDwU2VRQ6LCrpde0a7A3nqUeG38bVzDLg00cychaRjkgcGTnqZhyRIYGYZY0_V0RMQphqmCGKeX9Qrc3_gyt72wnm9gWEtFy5ElgzKlNFut_j8nDFBh0Z602R1czcN_KbCxT3hy8RWnd7fSC-1AANjOELOV9TdZuKKo2bQEL7-8kaMw6/s320/20220826_150753.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJp75F9ydpLJjr8M_WRlC-FlWt2DKzfIetITDDiocptv0ViCkGuCYRr3QRxyvP5XlTXSnCGJOxy0XfUn4u0SjZYcqke3c9OLkrwxsIL7h0kR03EB-OetLwrhrDetxIA0SXv0D17KAJR95f2_60sT4SuY4N7OdVJd4LQIBrwr1lGl4oXjIyuKt98z8Q/s1280/20220826_151218.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJp75F9ydpLJjr8M_WRlC-FlWt2DKzfIetITDDiocptv0ViCkGuCYRr3QRxyvP5XlTXSnCGJOxy0XfUn4u0SjZYcqke3c9OLkrwxsIL7h0kR03EB-OetLwrhrDetxIA0SXv0D17KAJR95f2_60sT4SuY4N7OdVJd4LQIBrwr1lGl4oXjIyuKt98z8Q/s320/20220826_151218.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW-3hYrQ3cLDtiKsKn9lyWoiLBQT0BAdcD6uuph15qcHrgnDmutJRvAh3pAECiLyVsA_NMF8GTnlbKAqV7eS5D0M0_GxdvSYYQjNZZ4XX67LSHOkjkrnIAKTPmO6ar7JfeB2aP0FZa6VmzhAScQzrqK0l2dAIf5MqzFyS4vaBvnenvkyFshDqAX2fS/s1280/20220826_151222.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW-3hYrQ3cLDtiKsKn9lyWoiLBQT0BAdcD6uuph15qcHrgnDmutJRvAh3pAECiLyVsA_NMF8GTnlbKAqV7eS5D0M0_GxdvSYYQjNZZ4XX67LSHOkjkrnIAKTPmO6ar7JfeB2aP0FZa6VmzhAScQzrqK0l2dAIf5MqzFyS4vaBvnenvkyFshDqAX2fS/s320/20220826_151222.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp6ZMvZns2N5PWs5tpjBSdak3hgUlJYHKynYQxsxiDe2yYyWQ7dp2AXq7VJKxHJ02fjjaLp6djvpj5qCPIo91WjD7S7wwo1oTfZp6pJyhhgnxc-Zih5FeIaoksSe5yvFcjJnsgpdfWdePSVpfoLBEJP9fLOwvOfN12LioKcd4GIgH4WCYxEqPyHgKC/s1280/20220826_151602.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp6ZMvZns2N5PWs5tpjBSdak3hgUlJYHKynYQxsxiDe2yYyWQ7dp2AXq7VJKxHJ02fjjaLp6djvpj5qCPIo91WjD7S7wwo1oTfZp6pJyhhgnxc-Zih5FeIaoksSe5yvFcjJnsgpdfWdePSVpfoLBEJP9fLOwvOfN12LioKcd4GIgH4WCYxEqPyHgKC/s320/20220826_151602.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>L'altiplano torna a chiudersi tra alte pareti di roccia a strapiombo sulla strada, che disegnano ombre lunghe su chi passa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlw2lo20E878pWFwGL-FJHHSe3GrM_42U5Pl48fo03hoS1iJ0-n0l8e4EaEbVVs8CF0qpQwWSnJfXm_ev55MbBO2PiGxQL7hFA8-SlWDCGQLD9vD_ZGsMoZrRTtKV6gBMnSOe4Pqnc7d4PqSA11_FPMM8Wzry2T1gCUyTZvWRv-21G02btIE7AK_mD/s1280/20220826_152118.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlw2lo20E878pWFwGL-FJHHSe3GrM_42U5Pl48fo03hoS1iJ0-n0l8e4EaEbVVs8CF0qpQwWSnJfXm_ev55MbBO2PiGxQL7hFA8-SlWDCGQLD9vD_ZGsMoZrRTtKV6gBMnSOe4Pqnc7d4PqSA11_FPMM8Wzry2T1gCUyTZvWRv-21G02btIE7AK_mD/s320/20220826_152118.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggU53ieoleptBSR31B-adDv3CL91DTlaaxGz9zs5UsjrnueF3UHq09w57FbLE34VhgwEDfAhuPiVpLominlmlei8NhGCPCDKigJo_Gues3hInkk478uy31fQOCEwS2BdPSG6IxckgQcREu71isH8a2WmGmWDGXr3fKRsOOoen1etsHYcZqFF2rGWXH/s1280/20220826_152208.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggU53ieoleptBSR31B-adDv3CL91DTlaaxGz9zs5UsjrnueF3UHq09w57FbLE34VhgwEDfAhuPiVpLominlmlei8NhGCPCDKigJo_Gues3hInkk478uy31fQOCEwS2BdPSG6IxckgQcREu71isH8a2WmGmWDGXr3fKRsOOoen1etsHYcZqFF2rGWXH/s320/20220826_152208.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83Y20cVBy_YL2FsEcR6IT4ef2Te77xnhF3_nDnRxQUGYWFKQkIZIgEk3HtdykM8Ay4NmxKQv8Uzen0Kvrqc4RJCV_7BApCJq9F2MfIOUYS7KDKtTIgNX_df0YZzjTC97rZzD33JbFngxyI4MESOFEwrGdIdlaJpuwEgam71gQdWxZhMNzb8MvVSPI/s1280/20220826_152218.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi83Y20cVBy_YL2FsEcR6IT4ef2Te77xnhF3_nDnRxQUGYWFKQkIZIgEk3HtdykM8Ay4NmxKQv8Uzen0Kvrqc4RJCV_7BApCJq9F2MfIOUYS7KDKtTIgNX_df0YZzjTC97rZzD33JbFngxyI4MESOFEwrGdIdlaJpuwEgam71gQdWxZhMNzb8MvVSPI/s320/20220826_152218.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Si susseguono agglomerati di casine, tutte diroccate, ammalorate, semidistrutte ma non abbandonate. Non solo c'è chi ci vive, ma alcune di esse sono ristoranti o negozietti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTv-TaYw1bA43taDr8Bhb7MZrx0ppZSTfV76DWRZlhEUXVJzFLqKRbzxzls626Nl1mzqEX9gWEsdlsixe8_xFjJ8DjlES9fFk7_9qqctYJ3_mnj-L--UKIVMrQrTQYnu8eZatBwcPuWHJ6uWTmDU_s4-o67PZFAgYFSsoTFQyKhsWIZs7TcOPSUYWm/s1280/20220826_152611.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTv-TaYw1bA43taDr8Bhb7MZrx0ppZSTfV76DWRZlhEUXVJzFLqKRbzxzls626Nl1mzqEX9gWEsdlsixe8_xFjJ8DjlES9fFk7_9qqctYJ3_mnj-L--UKIVMrQrTQYnu8eZatBwcPuWHJ6uWTmDU_s4-o67PZFAgYFSsoTFQyKhsWIZs7TcOPSUYWm/s320/20220826_152611.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUyUiqqTmHEJ2mUv3v9ehM-NuuK4jt89eXMDPA78qK67ALgubKvYJ_uR9Z_xZFcc9xe5dyOJPz-P_p9l1JzNrQWL06IRw61SngfQYIJveGQ6S27g-tP6Zm2tpVWEyHyu2HWfOKBc1nq7flURekFnZ0BPQH6iyNfAGNhQ2eRnyQnuNZhGgr5ljTt4GB/s1280/20220826_152626.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUyUiqqTmHEJ2mUv3v9ehM-NuuK4jt89eXMDPA78qK67ALgubKvYJ_uR9Z_xZFcc9xe5dyOJPz-P_p9l1JzNrQWL06IRw61SngfQYIJveGQ6S27g-tP6Zm2tpVWEyHyu2HWfOKBc1nq7flURekFnZ0BPQH6iyNfAGNhQ2eRnyQnuNZhGgr5ljTt4GB/s320/20220826_152626.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiOWn42JZCkAMZOiknhuMCWfF_ke4i8sty1VRtg_Qqn7sDJxkw0wdzQpMyhkcrdE4zIkxVKwzRrL43fpA8YX0_9DgR7LmyU0NsVryYADSWTpUnzRo5l5guRRtE3VajYL5emEdT0qL9rNyQeECknNEf8KtyqU_BCbFPKDOSrBFBF8rdwHSGTd5CfNw/s1280/20220826_152645.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiOWn42JZCkAMZOiknhuMCWfF_ke4i8sty1VRtg_Qqn7sDJxkw0wdzQpMyhkcrdE4zIkxVKwzRrL43fpA8YX0_9DgR7LmyU0NsVryYADSWTpUnzRo5l5guRRtE3VajYL5emEdT0qL9rNyQeECknNEf8KtyqU_BCbFPKDOSrBFBF8rdwHSGTd5CfNw/s320/20220826_152645.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Paccha è l'unica cittadina vera e propria, e infatti ricompaiono i mali perri che ci inseguono, ma noi in discesa li seminiamo facilmente.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzJnCwO_Ej4u_47wRF66YnGdvI26UThJxPxbjTK5FiU20NmZYOODpnCSN3CCdnPZp2kcQ5cFSrjOiMruQDLe5wTCKPQqE1OrfHbvE24q9qVu4Y2NBzFX4rqJVpJgw69m1yi9sTOLsOxrndTvrVhPiVD-_Qc362FoLsL5tiu37Uj1WqNkHhpdUt04CO/s1280/20220826_153445.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzJnCwO_Ej4u_47wRF66YnGdvI26UThJxPxbjTK5FiU20NmZYOODpnCSN3CCdnPZp2kcQ5cFSrjOiMruQDLe5wTCKPQqE1OrfHbvE24q9qVu4Y2NBzFX4rqJVpJgw69m1yi9sTOLsOxrndTvrVhPiVD-_Qc362FoLsL5tiu37Uj1WqNkHhpdUt04CO/s320/20220826_153445.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtTZCGA1Vp82ituKCxOJyot7de1M8KygJitEQ21f2R5niKc-5mlz6bnFI9Fzneq3GWEeJGvKt1v_JAuc_fh6eRP58K7h9q3T3fiMy6ezZeq3KcVQAKvDLAeTwg22YRJXHprI7k21aNzgTbetj3_crOt5vviSocsTEMGkWEh-iR2NsnZImLR4RYWnT/s1280/20220826_153519.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtTZCGA1Vp82ituKCxOJyot7de1M8KygJitEQ21f2R5niKc-5mlz6bnFI9Fzneq3GWEeJGvKt1v_JAuc_fh6eRP58K7h9q3T3fiMy6ezZeq3KcVQAKvDLAeTwg22YRJXHprI7k21aNzgTbetj3_crOt5vviSocsTEMGkWEh-iR2NsnZImLR4RYWnT/s320/20220826_153519.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La roccia intorno si fa alta come onde di pietra congelate nei millenni. E assume tutti i colori, dal bianco al rosso al verde, in una tavolozza primordiale in cui pedalare è uno spettacolo, un caleidoscopio di brezza.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4TkQW8h0UPTOk9dY-jc9-5jInMnj0KpaMrakK7zceFg4iOMPjNp7ptb8ijWIHASS9v04-fRLZevQs-6eYIwtg54XBKlf8Nginfs3Vno9JI4OYZL767oRmLwTEerE6End04WqTqC1E9bmY0wA4GbmWggDkukE-mdKsFQt8vvv1H95e1ViinNtIqwlS/s1280/20220826_153954.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4TkQW8h0UPTOk9dY-jc9-5jInMnj0KpaMrakK7zceFg4iOMPjNp7ptb8ijWIHASS9v04-fRLZevQs-6eYIwtg54XBKlf8Nginfs3Vno9JI4OYZL767oRmLwTEerE6End04WqTqC1E9bmY0wA4GbmWggDkukE-mdKsFQt8vvv1H95e1ViinNtIqwlS/s320/20220826_153954.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GGOhstYYJr1s_DK3HEHnHL8By8lIx7ukE_3FFKp5sOvlOVvkCdEpqXslKVtd4tl8OT6zQCOVX_ncfO50G0Wf0DVZTwA2Fs3sFwlp7DN4N1yT8P4kLct3tjKbI9mpYgnjcoMjnd5FVT1XAJ2wZaTcL-P-CkkHhjQnp-ZgLTPDufB2OIg6cZF_FE5D/s1280/20220826_154440.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1GGOhstYYJr1s_DK3HEHnHL8By8lIx7ukE_3FFKp5sOvlOVvkCdEpqXslKVtd4tl8OT6zQCOVX_ncfO50G0Wf0DVZTwA2Fs3sFwlp7DN4N1yT8P4kLct3tjKbI9mpYgnjcoMjnd5FVT1XAJ2wZaTcL-P-CkkHhjQnp-ZgLTPDufB2OIg6cZF_FE5D/s320/20220826_154440.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Anche la forma della alture è impressionante, e ricorda il gran calderone che è stata la terra, quando tutto era magma e collassi e rivolgimenti di lava. Questi monti sono usciti da una mastodontica sac à poche, sono meringhe minerali.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6D2GETqGPnU-LQ2GlGO3x7Uv4BqvnDKhCXlEfRZQ0CY91ACipMrDmlkPBC2vyetBoXRsNsIQ77ifI7OTGBeskUqfcG4SpKzHU2OTuE3jhWSLafCpjHnIcZBaVk87qip3TsVepfFvgcouKS-Ym2MvrV8MpiQHfx2abO4P_3UgArj-eaWrZ0voDDCp/s1280/20220826_154936.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6D2GETqGPnU-LQ2GlGO3x7Uv4BqvnDKhCXlEfRZQ0CY91ACipMrDmlkPBC2vyetBoXRsNsIQ77ifI7OTGBeskUqfcG4SpKzHU2OTuE3jhWSLafCpjHnIcZBaVk87qip3TsVepfFvgcouKS-Ym2MvrV8MpiQHfx2abO4P_3UgArj-eaWrZ0voDDCp/s320/20220826_154936.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-OQ6ZijZUGeo5x_RU9a2DYwcJ2aXMvnwzyGqEzepsF7MpTgZqNSf9dK1aa_rQuOBvlgogqcQo8aUspvGBiGvnwIVDYd8sOoA8eYgj18CVMZgd9_GXk-wononp6HJppKeK4fppYOZUMPvlrg95Uhxhmjzpy_sKzNJXqYPBivAkQSa85rzrLS-tGWR/s1280/20220826_155139.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-OQ6ZijZUGeo5x_RU9a2DYwcJ2aXMvnwzyGqEzepsF7MpTgZqNSf9dK1aa_rQuOBvlgogqcQo8aUspvGBiGvnwIVDYd8sOoA8eYgj18CVMZgd9_GXk-wononp6HJppKeK4fppYOZUMPvlrg95Uhxhmjzpy_sKzNJXqYPBivAkQSa85rzrLS-tGWR/s320/20220826_155139.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgip9oHDjW3jLB1IZcyU7O3urueBTHcaq47DESvsJXdy68PlxqyVi8qRxyvvgb1j2v7D9IzbJBJ4ipvg4Djevbz90etDXRKJVm5VtyhHzBBuqZ42DWlKotdOoIr6LG4H5IpLac_wAV_Vq8u7EKixAWhmvfwG0Q5FYF2j4CmwmJxL7Ed4j9liKTfe0C1/s1280/20220826_155213.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgip9oHDjW3jLB1IZcyU7O3urueBTHcaq47DESvsJXdy68PlxqyVi8qRxyvvgb1j2v7D9IzbJBJ4ipvg4Djevbz90etDXRKJVm5VtyhHzBBuqZ42DWlKotdOoIr6LG4H5IpLac_wAV_Vq8u7EKixAWhmvfwG0Q5FYF2j4CmwmJxL7Ed4j9liKTfe0C1/s320/20220826_155213.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgMrIUNF7h-d4m2RmYSBg3j7TwwLcdJAGHQuv1HDdCMUKuK3PBvJU2Thj8_SNhWa3yTuOrTFAzPv9OT5kVz5AvWFKPI0yinBXH6bfT4-Tv84G6cRRwjhVuSoAHsOtkzDHYQ6eVDyiPwwG-avptz4eUP1r-s6MVc--4NB_Rt3tCaXgZQjkAoqfr6fb/s1280/20220826_155300.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgMrIUNF7h-d4m2RmYSBg3j7TwwLcdJAGHQuv1HDdCMUKuK3PBvJU2Thj8_SNhWa3yTuOrTFAzPv9OT5kVz5AvWFKPI0yinBXH6bfT4-Tv84G6cRRwjhVuSoAHsOtkzDHYQ6eVDyiPwwG-avptz4eUP1r-s6MVc--4NB_Rt3tCaXgZQjkAoqfr6fb/s320/20220826_155300.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Che si sia arrivati a La Oroya è chiaro quando il paesaggio si fa improvvisamente più squallido, caliginoso di polvere e cupo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispS3zOc1Sk5ajyCzi4AOa6DSEqe9s01JyW8Sap10jWfjdOiYSSnDZC08BUR0yAhv5sZxq6zmZ2ArvahbL3P9ke7lA-H6omXBxrHntLlh6EERZaeI_vg_eRzD0g6hNTo1Oj7E92Gt_f26hDjmMYHJbjPy1Inpmvq9F-hfw5autORio9kyf1wDyWYkS/s1280/20220826_155452.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEispS3zOc1Sk5ajyCzi4AOa6DSEqe9s01JyW8Sap10jWfjdOiYSSnDZC08BUR0yAhv5sZxq6zmZ2ArvahbL3P9ke7lA-H6omXBxrHntLlh6EERZaeI_vg_eRzD0g6hNTo1Oj7E92Gt_f26hDjmMYHJbjPy1Inpmvq9F-hfw5autORio9kyf1wDyWYkS/s320/20220826_155452.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKCbx_dnv3NDTxKu_v6UleCkAymUqLJkgXaPDBhrw5lSjWPvxTa2W4tPm32wtA1-svdH0N563ECBRocyHC-RPCLHuiYHVePEMHCRuULZMIqUckF17sEfCcUWHBWUEoCuupBFFoLOrgQSlUc3qvZzddLPOEr-2A8J4s-VBrJ2M8R2wdJINEYSbtoqC-/s1280/20220826_160005.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKCbx_dnv3NDTxKu_v6UleCkAymUqLJkgXaPDBhrw5lSjWPvxTa2W4tPm32wtA1-svdH0N563ECBRocyHC-RPCLHuiYHVePEMHCRuULZMIqUckF17sEfCcUWHBWUEoCuupBFFoLOrgQSlUc3qvZzddLPOEr-2A8J4s-VBrJ2M8R2wdJINEYSbtoqC-/s320/20220826_160005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiXgN1eIGrIOzMIQB1DDSveoLS4TqXHSx_YU_pb9OUNWRk64QyjSPnEW0S4QXb989xVvVE18tU-qYI9QttCi5ptIGy1yPlZbiDcy8AD-63x5YptY1mfR-Y5Qei613NtQfe3IqmNZ_OWDVvrcyriJk8Se8KZVF0_9tEQ5Nomu_DVEouXXYVsGevJa8f/s1280/20220826_160331.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiXgN1eIGrIOzMIQB1DDSveoLS4TqXHSx_YU_pb9OUNWRk64QyjSPnEW0S4QXb989xVvVE18tU-qYI9QttCi5ptIGy1yPlZbiDcy8AD-63x5YptY1mfR-Y5Qei613NtQfe3IqmNZ_OWDVvrcyriJk8Se8KZVF0_9tEQ5Nomu_DVEouXXYVsGevJa8f/s320/20220826_160331.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6O14GbHPQWHtmclvvk6ptglg7lvlNBUgPsz0t6IGmuAZaCEZ37o9dBZF5I4MdOlAace3-1dXtNmH-Sd8iR9rMXQCsA39gChNs2PLFIQxL97-ng-dH6Lb_ZROvRDwrJ-jYQoXaPXmbz6rA2bac9k8bdq5Z5y_JalB_IQNQEUwwEBqFCBLcpnFUxMUG/s1280/20220826_160640.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6O14GbHPQWHtmclvvk6ptglg7lvlNBUgPsz0t6IGmuAZaCEZ37o9dBZF5I4MdOlAace3-1dXtNmH-Sd8iR9rMXQCsA39gChNs2PLFIQxL97-ng-dH6Lb_ZROvRDwrJ-jYQoXaPXmbz6rA2bac9k8bdq5Z5y_JalB_IQNQEUwwEBqFCBLcpnFUxMUG/s320/20220826_160640.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Questa città vanta il triste primato di essere la più, o una delle più, inquinate al mondo, a causa delle attività di estrazione mineraria e della fonderia. Si autodefinisce la capitale metallurgica del Perù e del Sud America, e, se si guarda ai volumi estratti, è pure vero. Ma questa ricchezza è anche la più grande miseria.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6FYY7HQCc9Ap2AjzievYvSMBK3CNMPKzYzeST1-rJHA9BMZxs4K4TR25L3YBlhY4EqRogO618n1brZonnkP4e-cGBkMpjzcyvr_v_TXlJhFYlfrkXk7YfBgXdb9OTzv1_sHQku1uXIKtKCSuP0dTC3r1y70wDD7Dug7MIMSHm0KG8FM2neyIqOiwa/s1280/20220826_160823.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6FYY7HQCc9Ap2AjzievYvSMBK3CNMPKzYzeST1-rJHA9BMZxs4K4TR25L3YBlhY4EqRogO618n1brZonnkP4e-cGBkMpjzcyvr_v_TXlJhFYlfrkXk7YfBgXdb9OTzv1_sHQku1uXIKtKCSuP0dTC3r1y70wDD7Dug7MIMSHm0KG8FM2neyIqOiwa/s320/20220826_160823.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimVTj8vN6cfukDmvp0NKnX3YJzff87Xub1J6RF3M_NHFNcK4J3yJ2uydcBbYLt0IN00d29l97CT5DA7ruaWepNx0euJ-C_JZufbnFMxvNQxcceqipi6iC3E0TNngLUlNOaVv2sqBN4tHsNulwxbsJKQsAR3PwC6KV34rtA6ZGtcdREAezlhO21NG5/s1280/20220826_160900.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhimVTj8vN6cfukDmvp0NKnX3YJzff87Xub1J6RF3M_NHFNcK4J3yJ2uydcBbYLt0IN00d29l97CT5DA7ruaWepNx0euJ-C_JZufbnFMxvNQxcceqipi6iC3E0TNngLUlNOaVv2sqBN4tHsNulwxbsJKQsAR3PwC6KV34rtA6ZGtcdREAezlhO21NG5/s320/20220826_160900.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">museo dei minatori</td></tr></tbody></table><br />L'estrazione mineraria è la principale risorsa economica del Perù e buona parte di questa attività si svolge proprio egli altopiani centrali. Zinco, piombo, argento, rame e oro sono materie prime di cui il paese è tra i primi quattro esportatori al mondo e portano grande ricchezza, che però pone il problema della derivante distribuzione del benessere e dei danni ambientali. Infatti i più floridi centri minerari del paese sono anche tra i luoghi più poveri e inquinati del paese, se non dell'intero continente. A Cerro de Pasco si cavano zinco e piombo, qui a La Oroya si fondono e, benchè la Doe Run, società proprietaria della fonderia, abbia momentaneamente interrotto la produzione, questa città risulta una delle più inquinate al mondo. Beffa al danno: la popolazione ha richiesto, pur conoscendone i rischi, che le attività riprendessero, pur di non perdere il lavoro. Non sono mancati gli scioperi (huelgas) organizzati per protestare contro le condizioni di vita e lavoro, ma è evidente che la gente è disposta a sopportare pur di portare a casa il tozzo di pane. A Cerro de Pasco il problema è anche più evidente: il pozzo di estrazione si apre proprio nel centro città ed è chiamato ironicamente la plaza de armas più grande del Perù. ). 9 bimbi su 10 hanno nel sangue una quantità di minerali pericolosa; l'acqua è disponibile nelle abitazioni solo poche ore al giorno, perchè il grosso è convogliato alla miniera. Una percentuale ampia di popolazione vive sotto la soglia di povertà e, oltretutto, le case sono affacciate al bordo del pozzo e il rischio di cedimenti è imminente. Il Governo ha fatto un bel salto carpiato: prima, nel 2008, ha venduto tutto il centro storico alla compagnia estrattiva, poi ha approvato una legge che prevede, in teoria, di trasferire l'intero abitato a 20km di distanza, cosa che costerebbe 500 milioni di dollari -che ovviamente non ci sono, nè ci saranno mai. Però dal posso si scava, quello sì.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid90EObr4bZ0QwTJZoYPn3oVfK7vEleQ17dn2mafLmlTSvKBPyVFrPTQYjgYFYW0g_5pTOJKHw_ql0dybYf1kBJNy8MYwkZpw7zdX5j2OiXrazOeVIbPGCe4MaH2H9N6xENHV2nLbdbAGPPCuvB2f79GxR_cUxiqPxEmH9FQossFnhkMAH92qDFWCj/s1280/20220826_160947.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid90EObr4bZ0QwTJZoYPn3oVfK7vEleQ17dn2mafLmlTSvKBPyVFrPTQYjgYFYW0g_5pTOJKHw_ql0dybYf1kBJNy8MYwkZpw7zdX5j2OiXrazOeVIbPGCe4MaH2H9N6xENHV2nLbdbAGPPCuvB2f79GxR_cUxiqPxEmH9FQossFnhkMAH92qDFWCj/s320/20220826_160947.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwjpphL7w8eKconIcvzfsDnnyNY0LRcwBM6EQPDIRQ6mfG8Kvg8THCG8G5-3lfX4Mjs1pe3JFRwJEbjPH2kbJ1KQ5uBJh5iWVBNxdYh8XlPCtnhXOPEP5hQqus2wmFX-9dfNEAmsKbz6RKDd2fVTvoRSsf1J8vhUWYbOYqu1YsHy8M0Nu1rXWhgMKJ/s1280/20220826_162615.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwjpphL7w8eKconIcvzfsDnnyNY0LRcwBM6EQPDIRQ6mfG8Kvg8THCG8G5-3lfX4Mjs1pe3JFRwJEbjPH2kbJ1KQ5uBJh5iWVBNxdYh8XlPCtnhXOPEP5hQqus2wmFX-9dfNEAmsKbz6RKDd2fVTvoRSsf1J8vhUWYbOYqu1YsHy8M0Nu1rXWhgMKJ/s320/20220826_162615.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE-2-j81GjTKka9bOo5bboy8d-rwmz4zCyMZDktHpl9oME4Yu6KpEbGdXKXvftK_txTIiO2cXMK5VGHgPN5Bf3kQW4Fc0yVhlSouu2ZSo7EI8Nwmi64AokP9w7kEVK-BsHx6tdSfQRk1EIKgwpGt3NWZHQBe4Npgzz8q8fXA9CPVAIjVKKYqtoOYxa/s1280/20220826_162641.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE-2-j81GjTKka9bOo5bboy8d-rwmz4zCyMZDktHpl9oME4Yu6KpEbGdXKXvftK_txTIiO2cXMK5VGHgPN5Bf3kQW4Fc0yVhlSouu2ZSo7EI8Nwmi64AokP9w7kEVK-BsHx6tdSfQRk1EIKgwpGt3NWZHQBe4Npgzz8q8fXA9CPVAIjVKKYqtoOYxa/s320/20220826_162641.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Noi ci lasciamo alle spalle la città vecchia, tutta edifici in cemento e filo spinato della Doe Run, anche perchè molti alberghi sono convenzionati e ospitano solo operai. Superiamo l'incrocio trafficatissimo di mezzi pubblici e privati che portano all'altiplano, alla selva o alla costa, e proseguiamo in valle verso la città nuova, più vivibile. Una coppia ci ferma e ci chiede lumi del nostro viaggio, tra mille complimenti. Anche loro hanno una parte della famiglia in Italia. Stiamo tornando in luoghi dove i gringos non sono cosa così rara, e spaventosa, e odiosa.</div><div>Prendiamo alloggio in un hotel di lusso che, oltre all'acqua calda, dispone di un magico meraviglioso incredibile dispositivo elettrico per scaldare il letto. Inutile dire che ci grigliamo sopra come gamberetti, godendo del tepore. Appena cala il sole la temperatura crolla sotto lo zero, e stare al calduccio è un piacere ineffabile. Domani tappa breve di avvicinamento al passo: non puntiamo nemmeno la sveglia, abbiamo l'intera giornata per scalare 20km nemmeno troppo ripidi. E' quasi un festivo!</div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Sabato, 27/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">La Oroya - Nueva ciudad de Morococha (4300m)</div><div style="text-align: left;">22km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Per fortuna s'è deciso per la tappa breve: ho il grave e doloroso sospetto che l'antibiotico peruviano non stia funzionando. Anche stanotte tutto ciò che ho mangiato nella giornata è finito nel cesso, con vomito, diarrea e somma sofferenza. Sono al limite fisico di tenuta. Manca poco, mi aggrappo a questa consapevolezza e tengo duro. Perfero, patior.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Dopo colazione, che per Gigi è doppia di uova e succhi di frutta, mentre per me si riduce a un panino inzuppato nella camomilla, partiamo con calma, aspettando che il sole scaldi. Intorno alle 10 dentro alla stanza fa molto più freddo che fuori. E' ora di andare.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Più di metà tappa corre in valle, in falsopiano a salire. Se seguono il fiume Yauli e il binario su cui non passa neanche un treno. Si susseguono centri pobladi piccoli e caotici, dove il mestiere principale e più diffuso è quello di sventolare piatti colorati e bandierine, a bordo strada, per attirare clienti in auto nei ristoranti.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDjbVk9afxpqF8Rrl3IvvzsPhi-OV3EcWBNDW7clyeFu8j7WO7bMN43xSoq3k6oiGaDqavP-futSbngg9ybfcw3UsD-QRWqVsn57-YisgTcirnLkP2p47hldYcRt_rd8C0Y8-XtQeFasMKcm0JHebOl4rutGqUxkCEluSW2-bnanplLpltDKjH3lj/s1280/20220827_111216(0).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDjbVk9afxpqF8Rrl3IvvzsPhi-OV3EcWBNDW7clyeFu8j7WO7bMN43xSoq3k6oiGaDqavP-futSbngg9ybfcw3UsD-QRWqVsn57-YisgTcirnLkP2p47hldYcRt_rd8C0Y8-XtQeFasMKcm0JHebOl4rutGqUxkCEluSW2-bnanplLpltDKjH3lj/s320/20220827_111216(0).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6BptCy1gO69B6oo38zTm-296xWSkb09Pu2qAq_6X5S00WdT7SnLbhUBcSMzBsYINHc78Va5ZFWFNMTP5CMzp5WrleUMH2p-eHOnCO98YcDNdTgf6lv41vl8bC7qJ-e1Kskq1eKtV95lixJweY9m6S03d3gEStx2scYVFEL1EfWxOzYSqs7gXEtpIL/s1280/20220827_111221.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6BptCy1gO69B6oo38zTm-296xWSkb09Pu2qAq_6X5S00WdT7SnLbhUBcSMzBsYINHc78Va5ZFWFNMTP5CMzp5WrleUMH2p-eHOnCO98YcDNdTgf6lv41vl8bC7qJ-e1Kskq1eKtV95lixJweY9m6S03d3gEStx2scYVFEL1EfWxOzYSqs7gXEtpIL/s320/20220827_111221.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdx4phYYz7oS-w8XgpUY73rdKHMKGwVibrueW3hTV0Na1LQcyqltSF1VpV0qtB6w4N29edMpPAhzIkXFQolIh4LsPQMfSvWziJTEOHkhOdsXDG5_a8aM0_ErpH0V44vpS-FpyKjbUVtRfVErCWCoKjSa2B_3dcTD-E7r2fry_Layb1R0P0CREaY9_R/s1280/20220827_111227.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdx4phYYz7oS-w8XgpUY73rdKHMKGwVibrueW3hTV0Na1LQcyqltSF1VpV0qtB6w4N29edMpPAhzIkXFQolIh4LsPQMfSvWziJTEOHkhOdsXDG5_a8aM0_ErpH0V44vpS-FpyKjbUVtRfVErCWCoKjSa2B_3dcTD-E7r2fry_Layb1R0P0CREaY9_R/s320/20220827_111227.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Alcuni centri di questi paesini malandati sono anche molto graziosi e ben tenuti, con la loro chiesina e il parco giochi. Poi basta voltarsi dall'altro lato della strada ed è polvere, son macerie, cani randagi e immondizia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr6iztEps6ELHzkbCHEjJCk8aqKdfG7U0rQeF0ySvHA7u_RP_Rl4D8eFUZgn1_lz-O6VidCDehpfIiiiZl1X2di5i9rUYAWgO20ZXVeAYBcWDLwQsNVxNXaUunXacmbLpXV1L9pkVb4HQw7-gpeCZxF5jVV2bY-eX5CJaGg_9v5SWrSOIZVBu1zM6Z/s1280/20220827_112042.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr6iztEps6ELHzkbCHEjJCk8aqKdfG7U0rQeF0ySvHA7u_RP_Rl4D8eFUZgn1_lz-O6VidCDehpfIiiiZl1X2di5i9rUYAWgO20ZXVeAYBcWDLwQsNVxNXaUunXacmbLpXV1L9pkVb4HQw7-gpeCZxF5jVV2bY-eX5CJaGg_9v5SWrSOIZVBu1zM6Z/s320/20220827_112042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1xWBVNxerTtXp4kVQE4D1odK9dsrRu7n4U_K-490VHhg9dDOYgaByfIivQ9c5xUBaB-Y8kx_YdEtOodIX8jndgACTH63RTJZhyYVxEnwuKQ4XSQ5S0X3G5vZQymKtDO0y9gDgt0Yjrep6vmujm26KyCX98hC0JJ-kETjYxFjxBIjcWu1Dul-Yr4gE/s1280/20220827_112046.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1xWBVNxerTtXp4kVQE4D1odK9dsrRu7n4U_K-490VHhg9dDOYgaByfIivQ9c5xUBaB-Y8kx_YdEtOodIX8jndgACTH63RTJZhyYVxEnwuKQ4XSQ5S0X3G5vZQymKtDO0y9gDgt0Yjrep6vmujm26KyCX98hC0JJ-kETjYxFjxBIjcWu1Dul-Yr4gE/s320/20220827_112046.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7kH0nrqB8mF7HrhJbpfKMhK8rUwnTQGpn8xmbGyPjMEcNQJ1OSsZqrzud_hfblTNDoDvmt9y5dBZkxxLaA1oLxMtMMYurXvwkv9q4X1AnkxY5SWP1XtWnL2kN02VDoiKBY4Y-sFMEZTDweU6Ewqaho-gpSLdt8J2-sJlqaR7mt3bxctVwiyyHUM6c/s1280/20220827_112050.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7kH0nrqB8mF7HrhJbpfKMhK8rUwnTQGpn8xmbGyPjMEcNQJ1OSsZqrzud_hfblTNDoDvmt9y5dBZkxxLaA1oLxMtMMYurXvwkv9q4X1AnkxY5SWP1XtWnL2kN02VDoiKBY4Y-sFMEZTDweU6Ewqaho-gpSLdt8J2-sJlqaR7mt3bxctVwiyyHUM6c/s320/20220827_112050.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFXLAZR_TT3-9fjji1A-G46a7CoPSnG7EQhTe1yDHUQuTSCKNIe7yzTZA1mM3o0qAb8QJKTlmCU1QEROZsaKPK58yH23sfiqlDG_XYt1hoz6caM8eVQa1EcxjI_h-6nVCrZ5mfVRiG1ggOXl40COIy9wLe_oB13ZN-Ifb4Ftvlyeu3kZDyrrFkKK8Z/s1280/20220827_112204.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFXLAZR_TT3-9fjji1A-G46a7CoPSnG7EQhTe1yDHUQuTSCKNIe7yzTZA1mM3o0qAb8QJKTlmCU1QEROZsaKPK58yH23sfiqlDG_XYt1hoz6caM8eVQa1EcxjI_h-6nVCrZ5mfVRiG1ggOXl40COIy9wLe_oB13ZN-Ifb4Ftvlyeu3kZDyrrFkKK8Z/s320/20220827_112204.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La valle si stringe nelle sue spalle di roccia e presto lasciamo la ferrovia, che prosegue fino a Lima attraverso tunnel e gallerie, per imboccare la strada che porta al passo Ticlio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7hftOkYHrcbEujERO0hIGsXTybh97Ovs16CjfOvLR3qw6y1jNns4ESQkTj6YhLTCRikBmsI-scv9ynwHjN3pv42yN9EiOqMsjimJxp7TWa5UpsEIBr1rYTpppYZuasQodYB7AgyClUvtvUgPKeiYdVDQqMjy6SFI8uV0YcHOEZEiS17esSiSrXGE/s1280/20220827_115225.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7hftOkYHrcbEujERO0hIGsXTybh97Ovs16CjfOvLR3qw6y1jNns4ESQkTj6YhLTCRikBmsI-scv9ynwHjN3pv42yN9EiOqMsjimJxp7TWa5UpsEIBr1rYTpppYZuasQodYB7AgyClUvtvUgPKeiYdVDQqMjy6SFI8uV0YcHOEZEiS17esSiSrXGE/s320/20220827_115225.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipktcSAaUmnwo9GX5VkdoIwgg_0zwR8CbEn_ybIF7nNl2rwNv6LvzCp9pUo-pZiOU-7J3ZDLM32GlRecW0fBpCuHNYIwhN-YVfC_pfyQ-yg8h05CkHvxsfZXIQJ2F1lZ0Iule9iqhhfPqydI8wxrhFphayjhiYAgOhaRwSR441_mRvumZ6SkzI1ncq/s1280/20220827_115409.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipktcSAaUmnwo9GX5VkdoIwgg_0zwR8CbEn_ybIF7nNl2rwNv6LvzCp9pUo-pZiOU-7J3ZDLM32GlRecW0fBpCuHNYIwhN-YVfC_pfyQ-yg8h05CkHvxsfZXIQJ2F1lZ0Iule9iqhhfPqydI8wxrhFphayjhiYAgOhaRwSR441_mRvumZ6SkzI1ncq/s320/20220827_115409.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi52HXdhc1fdX0Mbu2HXH3H8epAKThQrHgDZt-VboXUpUkbNkH0pTeb4B-9jLFtDvZYSleXPLbrtRkC6O7uTfAeJCExAFH71QlihsKqutRd-ufYSsD9qs-aXvA8zwXlqvwqAFMlHEV4H5mGc9DYtdp7YrKa0Ivotqzu-B4YQ42xmOQUpu64Ex5J8gaU/s1280/20220827_115540.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi52HXdhc1fdX0Mbu2HXH3H8epAKThQrHgDZt-VboXUpUkbNkH0pTeb4B-9jLFtDvZYSleXPLbrtRkC6O7uTfAeJCExAFH71QlihsKqutRd-ufYSsD9qs-aXvA8zwXlqvwqAFMlHEV4H5mGc9DYtdp7YrKa0Ivotqzu-B4YQ42xmOQUpu64Ex5J8gaU/s320/20220827_115540.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5z-hp89AtkDFBXj5zD8gjk-Xk1fK0xbr_AU07neMZoC2K2HP_nrgtJr-u-Mw-IMgJ0des_8a-EsRD59tcRA1QvTLTZ7sb3M4G-aipo2qwzaseGrzsI81rKoh33oWGhO-U1AN94Yj1G41rrOe9POc-nYKAse_duJIrRDWtWQ0rKiC6i0s8wxHwXaue/s1280/20220827_115545.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5z-hp89AtkDFBXj5zD8gjk-Xk1fK0xbr_AU07neMZoC2K2HP_nrgtJr-u-Mw-IMgJ0des_8a-EsRD59tcRA1QvTLTZ7sb3M4G-aipo2qwzaseGrzsI81rKoh33oWGhO-U1AN94Yj1G41rrOe9POc-nYKAse_duJIrRDWtWQ0rKiC6i0s8wxHwXaue/s320/20220827_115545.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Appena le pendenze si fanno un poco più aggressive, l'altura colpisce. Manca il fiato, tutte le più curiose estremità si informicolano (oltre alle mani, il mento, le labbra, la lingua, le palpebre), la testa si fa leggera leggera. Devo fermarmi ogni kilometro, pur procedendo ad un passo appena sufficiente per stare in equilibrio sulla bici.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn-5t3fqHnNheFnuYXXF_fHSg3BB9im87nAyRi9BcqIm-d2J0ikH0N2kodMP_ez2i5YQ1C8xaytylwJPROyDuRbtM-XXMXgoBF5rkG_i6gmxqjfYxrwz36OTJkyPgyFY1Di6Gr5BiMjO82AuU1GflcMzC0K6aBhv_I-prST5s9e6Bd089ypsHjGc75/s1280/20220827_122049.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn-5t3fqHnNheFnuYXXF_fHSg3BB9im87nAyRi9BcqIm-d2J0ikH0N2kodMP_ez2i5YQ1C8xaytylwJPROyDuRbtM-XXMXgoBF5rkG_i6gmxqjfYxrwz36OTJkyPgyFY1Di6Gr5BiMjO82AuU1GflcMzC0K6aBhv_I-prST5s9e6Bd089ypsHjGc75/s320/20220827_122049.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35NDcEF6qI5fTAjk-4QIZ1yW5avS8ocXEE-F1IuRmf6X-RxDPzWjD8KqRhSU8coTBbJvXckOJUm6yXQF2wp7v-2zHdajUYvILosHBciTZY3sjWnsrXa4SsWtm5DVm6opC99NV9CglTmXyZ6Hk3oqkhvlgWHWnIQm-On6tJEgTn2_xs0orVtk2Csj9/s1280/20220827_122114.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35NDcEF6qI5fTAjk-4QIZ1yW5avS8ocXEE-F1IuRmf6X-RxDPzWjD8KqRhSU8coTBbJvXckOJUm6yXQF2wp7v-2zHdajUYvILosHBciTZY3sjWnsrXa4SsWtm5DVm6opC99NV9CglTmXyZ6Hk3oqkhvlgWHWnIQm-On6tJEgTn2_xs0orVtk2Csj9/s320/20220827_122114.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WTGV2o7Cu2YqfZpYeWK30MqbeXHCxMWsmPanTiumg3GWysqwKXp6ggWUxwpK_8wbCWEnIWmuvCfVuBSK09cZcuNhePz2QB2YBgiTtsEOdAUzIz9kVX-7oIG8sSTeVmDJ6z9HaD6l9oFHaGtI0vCWEn20zHwYV383891OqLi9JMNNjb30R8vHVwb8/s1280/20220827_122204.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WTGV2o7Cu2YqfZpYeWK30MqbeXHCxMWsmPanTiumg3GWysqwKXp6ggWUxwpK_8wbCWEnIWmuvCfVuBSK09cZcuNhePz2QB2YBgiTtsEOdAUzIz9kVX-7oIG8sSTeVmDJ6z9HaD6l9oFHaGtI0vCWEn20zHwYV383891OqLi9JMNNjb30R8vHVwb8/s320/20220827_122204.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'esatto istante in cui è cascato un pezzo di cioccolato a terra</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Per fortuna anche oggi il vento ci aiuta e ci permette di procedere, in qualche modo, a manate sulle spalle. Purtroppo a volte c'è traffico: i camion più pesanti arrancano sulle rampe e creano un tappo ai conducenti nervosi dietro di loro. Lì cominciano le sclacsonate e i sorpassi circensi, mentre noi cerchiamo di stare a bordo strada, ma nemmeno troppo: lo strapiombo è un soffio.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ_2Uf-0SZWF7mzvin_pub4lFSwrXzAV1kRXss2EJrskLycGEKW9WQO0sOy03CJPPef_z9m6YV2Ck-zeJWDWFK35W7Z6S164OtG2Uex7-53xPgboi3rrCz6RExKBG61SYusYbujTcB0GIkg_C1RB365xcFfRXnJKExIlZmPrO2AsxPOV69HjtP1ILj/s1280/20220827_124047.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ_2Uf-0SZWF7mzvin_pub4lFSwrXzAV1kRXss2EJrskLycGEKW9WQO0sOy03CJPPef_z9m6YV2Ck-zeJWDWFK35W7Z6S164OtG2Uex7-53xPgboi3rrCz6RExKBG61SYusYbujTcB0GIkg_C1RB365xcFfRXnJKExIlZmPrO2AsxPOV69HjtP1ILj/s320/20220827_124047.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1LHDeE_wbXRR0_F-LorfzGvxGniUFkxUZWrznv_cTMK26PG1ZwaxxROlWPzayNSSkHg7nJ6x0_0SO_2fWD8sK6ANxoWO9lPzLJAc8__cAIxaIfsBMXDpro1gw8YrIo_AryaE3ptZFT_SSIWXMVWXqHPkVRK2IlNfXYp47zKVSD4L6OWC-lA3NXOow/s1280/20220827_125051.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1LHDeE_wbXRR0_F-LorfzGvxGniUFkxUZWrznv_cTMK26PG1ZwaxxROlWPzayNSSkHg7nJ6x0_0SO_2fWD8sK6ANxoWO9lPzLJAc8__cAIxaIfsBMXDpro1gw8YrIo_AryaE3ptZFT_SSIWXMVWXqHPkVRK2IlNfXYp47zKVSD4L6OWC-lA3NXOow/s320/20220827_125051.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtenLRVGlizWpMvFnpyST1UVB9aHawn48g9R8uJiz5d6WWTYeiB2SXkEUce5KyhdL-TsarPEhYk04xmO9JmonXe8N41IxvqTxLKrt6pM1d02m1StL4xI5AQpbnfee4pmjUJWoUmBEmFKVX6x9n3PcNCGnYRyUh7aYJOV3Hz_mex1A81HRzJLnnRIJ4/s1280/20220827_130947.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtenLRVGlizWpMvFnpyST1UVB9aHawn48g9R8uJiz5d6WWTYeiB2SXkEUce5KyhdL-TsarPEhYk04xmO9JmonXe8N41IxvqTxLKrt6pM1d02m1StL4xI5AQpbnfee4pmjUJWoUmBEmFKVX6x9n3PcNCGnYRyUh7aYJOV3Hz_mex1A81HRzJLnnRIJ4/s320/20220827_130947.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Proseguiamo sulla Carretera central e guadagniamo quota, fino ai 4200m. Il paesaggio è ormai pressochè brullodel tutto, quasi desertico.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEsNAaK4gk9kZhNTx1d47kaYjhEOzOxVdV2f42GYga5VxgKcZ0NfIGUmjkkkoRzhZ6Sd15hE2OF46oy8k5vGY8uMQaXVnA5dhy95Lnf9Dko57VifFQoVU3QjWixMmeQTP37dDaWc4UZetxnrv3e35nZ3fe8y5lS4HftYdP1ST89CdjpUKuKwazKwVh/s1280/20220827_131214.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEsNAaK4gk9kZhNTx1d47kaYjhEOzOxVdV2f42GYga5VxgKcZ0NfIGUmjkkkoRzhZ6Sd15hE2OF46oy8k5vGY8uMQaXVnA5dhy95Lnf9Dko57VifFQoVU3QjWixMmeQTP37dDaWc4UZetxnrv3e35nZ3fe8y5lS4HftYdP1ST89CdjpUKuKwazKwVh/s320/20220827_131214.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI523Lid8XmDZbTu3qg-vfbVF61tQh9tO5ky55uj3SuHaa6fbYSA5sqUv-D_h3eFPOeQRz3bbQmWTgUZoDbrecGKMCbK_rStuk5WWpUn6oqO2XY2SuDyYhE1bEaZSNzrVTo0kW_CNSzG4IatRjd4-SJjbXaHX4WirjKSFuv90lxL9_ZZ0W-ubM9f0k/s1280/20220827_131242.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI523Lid8XmDZbTu3qg-vfbVF61tQh9tO5ky55uj3SuHaa6fbYSA5sqUv-D_h3eFPOeQRz3bbQmWTgUZoDbrecGKMCbK_rStuk5WWpUn6oqO2XY2SuDyYhE1bEaZSNzrVTo0kW_CNSzG4IatRjd4-SJjbXaHX4WirjKSFuv90lxL9_ZZ0W-ubM9f0k/s320/20220827_131242.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">In un odore di ferro che impregna l'aria, mentre agnellini e pecore belano al vento, raggiungiamo il bivio ed entriamo in Nueva Morococha.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFe_aNVXwekkuhPtp8N-u484pstg59Xl-qPkIndNRFKyHNJQZTtmg97Brjr5-bQEAh4cvHV0rsEeWDmcYoxokfvwzbLlfeLxHD2I8CZiyLEQLg9ly2TBfQmL0otMTkjmm0vIIpkIb2iX7UYmArDBCXO4w8P5OgRM9FedgY6yD3acI-m3Lvatt5RIf6/s1280/20220827_132348.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFe_aNVXwekkuhPtp8N-u484pstg59Xl-qPkIndNRFKyHNJQZTtmg97Brjr5-bQEAh4cvHV0rsEeWDmcYoxokfvwzbLlfeLxHD2I8CZiyLEQLg9ly2TBfQmL0otMTkjmm0vIIpkIb2iX7UYmArDBCXO4w8P5OgRM9FedgY6yD3acI-m3Lvatt5RIf6/s320/20220827_132348.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci accoglie la laguna Hualmish, occhio spalancato al cielo che ne riflette luci e azzurro. E' anche abitata da un numero incredibile di uccelli acquatici, che non riconosco e mi incantano. Starei a osservarli per ore.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdi0lqpbLLR14TJxSsas2p1C--dpPe_dzWh-4n6D6A2vooVWS9nPtSXUdEBYiuk5CqT8XwWW2XfFXOyYWXykTa9bXvpHsvErIitd4QI_B30UQ2XRB6XTD_WkV7VaNyhwDTzSx3MNvvUsqLQajF-EBlm_CrPVqDwLNA6eK7OnIxoQk2X0NImp5yPqA/s1280/20220827_132642.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdi0lqpbLLR14TJxSsas2p1C--dpPe_dzWh-4n6D6A2vooVWS9nPtSXUdEBYiuk5CqT8XwWW2XfFXOyYWXykTa9bXvpHsvErIitd4QI_B30UQ2XRB6XTD_WkV7VaNyhwDTzSx3MNvvUsqLQajF-EBlm_CrPVqDwLNA6eK7OnIxoQk2X0NImp5yPqA/s320/20220827_132642.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhbJ4uPx5pMHdn4ffRJhAq7cpw91Rq-nBG-SPI3Er7AtI1ijg_j05e8QqUZxMX38OkF5qLQdexinPTvq1lU0ytc7nZ_7iJim8WHbetUWbvqZrYFWlDTxhtkNTrZXts0xo1CBj0EcCgcxlWihe1qvSYb8Ljnsubil8mXLyrpcPqn0ELKMbi39rQxc8/s1280/20220827_132651.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhbJ4uPx5pMHdn4ffRJhAq7cpw91Rq-nBG-SPI3Er7AtI1ijg_j05e8QqUZxMX38OkF5qLQdexinPTvq1lU0ytc7nZ_7iJim8WHbetUWbvqZrYFWlDTxhtkNTrZXts0xo1CBj0EcCgcxlWihe1qvSYb8Ljnsubil8mXLyrpcPqn0ELKMbi39rQxc8/s320/20220827_132651.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwQ0pEEdmOfvjLkB89Tinv6XF1YFqoB3tAO3V2QDFD_BYMjwDa6VDSuRLZQ7EYE0nBVrBvn9wNi9f5Rw3HFQOiXkC4MmorYvjFbO5ROZ-whdwx0R45zcjfxSxCFAgxIF0tutMHPbsVwLjunn9vsSmYPROd4XZUVQ2eZkFlvbiJtbypPkrNd-WzlD7/s1280/20220827_133045.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwQ0pEEdmOfvjLkB89Tinv6XF1YFqoB3tAO3V2QDFD_BYMjwDa6VDSuRLZQ7EYE0nBVrBvn9wNi9f5Rw3HFQOiXkC4MmorYvjFbO5ROZ-whdwx0R45zcjfxSxCFAgxIF0tutMHPbsVwLjunn9vsSmYPROd4XZUVQ2eZkFlvbiJtbypPkrNd-WzlD7/s320/20220827_133045.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirgl78mzZLjICp5RV-7khXbSfCl5aYIIHR8bIk7Ys10OA8TvZ2pntw8msHGxTQ7PD1LJ80AWXxGHjVyDjXwQ_OUBKtHuMPsThZINjFkghh0JIWlweenm3_8ymiHhdSkQGxbxLnHF2Q-mWH5EFQpOaaWfZjb3TZrANFd8tHHBeDU9UUjhWBfJ9Mg5Rq/s1280/20220827_133051.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirgl78mzZLjICp5RV-7khXbSfCl5aYIIHR8bIk7Ys10OA8TvZ2pntw8msHGxTQ7PD1LJ80AWXxGHjVyDjXwQ_OUBKtHuMPsThZINjFkghh0JIWlweenm3_8ymiHhdSkQGxbxLnHF2Q-mWH5EFQpOaaWfZjb3TZrANFd8tHHBeDU9UUjhWBfJ9Mg5Rq/s320/20220827_133051.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WE4HTufBercO_IhmaNuu63mbaJTUKVdwtOPOEEeHzFu3YwjtfNeCGAYYb_V7jEDJ891gXl5CO6O5nGXsxQdVpwQf0CF4g-67ESu7HtGu4exwxO8MEbWTFfHoRczkLU7RrQOtpy0mw9-Ija3MLLyiupZC54IM5TyQxaux6mNrzZ0BdusmQsBOfzd_/s1280/20220827_133101.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WE4HTufBercO_IhmaNuu63mbaJTUKVdwtOPOEEeHzFu3YwjtfNeCGAYYb_V7jEDJ891gXl5CO6O5nGXsxQdVpwQf0CF4g-67ESu7HtGu4exwxO8MEbWTFfHoRczkLU7RrQOtpy0mw9-Ija3MLLyiupZC54IM5TyQxaux6mNrzZ0BdusmQsBOfzd_/s320/20220827_133101.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIWCvtQAmoyQtFDoNMmCrR5rpCl08IE5ICDCjgFFHcFvfytJhcEoLGYGspKqwskFdF0R-9ARGcLTklyMH9VUDxNhHcBqpXY4-IBO2Dj6REcVoZhUYhaUCYRJFenxS4ExBmZxZxlWdAobBfXUtORgIBHQnVeMzAMkrJz4ahTpG7HSlxCqc3XNDQJAe/s1280/20220827_133106.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIWCvtQAmoyQtFDoNMmCrR5rpCl08IE5ICDCjgFFHcFvfytJhcEoLGYGspKqwskFdF0R-9ARGcLTklyMH9VUDxNhHcBqpXY4-IBO2Dj6REcVoZhUYhaUCYRJFenxS4ExBmZxZxlWdAobBfXUtORgIBHQnVeMzAMkrJz4ahTpG7HSlxCqc3XNDQJAe/s320/20220827_133106.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La città sembra piuttosto nuova, ma è completamente deserta. Pare una ghost town. Si intravede qualche finestra aperta qua e là, un minatore in lontananza. Per il resto, silenzio. Solo il fischio del vento tra gli edifici. E' stata costruita di recente per dare alloggio ai minatori e alle loro famiglie. In parte è ancora disabitata.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFh4IyLkzM2dzqciJZJtHAjLcHskhUQQ-eGMsOIjckMcom5SpS2YnQE3R8B8L4WWAqLVBdIAvmXJ8BqerDY4T595qRQKfqNVz3zXt4wgyFPz-dEPSamqINgmHyLbS2FW2sK1S-DVW742dA9JhywAXc0PuhhPCraPbUg2eMLaMUdhp4K7-d_p0P7KK9/s1280/20220827_133459.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFh4IyLkzM2dzqciJZJtHAjLcHskhUQQ-eGMsOIjckMcom5SpS2YnQE3R8B8L4WWAqLVBdIAvmXJ8BqerDY4T595qRQKfqNVz3zXt4wgyFPz-dEPSamqINgmHyLbS2FW2sK1S-DVW742dA9JhywAXc0PuhhPCraPbUg2eMLaMUdhp4K7-d_p0P7KK9/s320/20220827_133459.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibojqWhyg-39sAmlWpZrMES7MXT2zilSh8x9bZd_jTmCr3-eo4ESjVrBT9C_iuRMiUqXCwxXj_aFFRfha0V0BaQXGnC6iVAIsROFAM-J13GJAnNKhWhTsXpyCCNZqkx5VZQouzs4MDOL02izt9N27Zea8rOe3F5MJLywOk8TPUCgpXWXArwOVi3R2J/s1280/20220827_133503.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibojqWhyg-39sAmlWpZrMES7MXT2zilSh8x9bZd_jTmCr3-eo4ESjVrBT9C_iuRMiUqXCwxXj_aFFRfha0V0BaQXGnC6iVAIsROFAM-J13GJAnNKhWhTsXpyCCNZqkx5VZQouzs4MDOL02izt9N27Zea8rOe3F5MJLywOk8TPUCgpXWXArwOVi3R2J/s320/20220827_133503.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyS6sz8d0SJ-zyRVXJKOkMhV4T-BOLNAjg63Tw6fdWyCAxy5dVaPnr7eHPYbjCWCT4UfuKg2Z8u-xwawkPzimOOzsz8aLvo5VRfoCzZAvK_ZY-WkNBVfLfWWWiwd06ff0CLHxj2-CZr3xwqHKF4dKAzGWZOrS2UjIZ2aq_0aOG1kX8rquFkfZQ2hst/s1280/20220827_133532.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyS6sz8d0SJ-zyRVXJKOkMhV4T-BOLNAjg63Tw6fdWyCAxy5dVaPnr7eHPYbjCWCT4UfuKg2Z8u-xwawkPzimOOzsz8aLvo5VRfoCzZAvK_ZY-WkNBVfLfWWWiwd06ff0CLHxj2-CZr3xwqHKF4dKAzGWZOrS2UjIZ2aq_0aOG1kX8rquFkfZQ2hst/s320/20220827_133532.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikHJLrysvoIw42V_O1dkybzEw4Pv6oF0LBKBZ0m_thnpuxVJAUnIc5SGixNxZzlw2jZZIF7AYP5ZsUclF6mCSz8zIoLO-EBZHeutZmtoWpEsYAjzAKEjCWb0IdlklPfQ0nKC_KQl6qOyF18NxBE0f7KpFMIybps5JcVa56Xy8tJ6B7YlsrOwWgDC3L/s1280/20220827_133646.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikHJLrysvoIw42V_O1dkybzEw4Pv6oF0LBKBZ0m_thnpuxVJAUnIc5SGixNxZzlw2jZZIF7AYP5ZsUclF6mCSz8zIoLO-EBZHeutZmtoWpEsYAjzAKEjCWb0IdlklPfQ0nKC_KQl6qOyF18NxBE0f7KpFMIybps5JcVa56Xy8tJ6B7YlsrOwWgDC3L/s320/20220827_133646.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sVA2vihyobhkaOEEwewVU4b1Src_qWTJbDIUxNUhU8goAQa2dvzqKu9035Bl1LLYgg00nPKUV12Y-8aeWrbQ5GCq9Vh5w4o4NAqtOzmV-cByFMfMWWDwso2nJ64Xr82lyiNfcUTSPOhJVXbEetypHQPUPE74f4oW5j-3PQb9Z0_l-u4GEJe6wruo/s1280/20220827_133658.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sVA2vihyobhkaOEEwewVU4b1Src_qWTJbDIUxNUhU8goAQa2dvzqKu9035Bl1LLYgg00nPKUV12Y-8aeWrbQ5GCq9Vh5w4o4NAqtOzmV-cByFMfMWWDwso2nJ64Xr82lyiNfcUTSPOhJVXbEetypHQPUPE74f4oW5j-3PQb9Z0_l-u4GEJe6wruo/s320/20220827_133658.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per fortuna qualcosa c'è. Un hospedaje familiare, che costa poco e offre letti con sei strati di coperte pesantissime. Io arrivo e mi ci tuffo, piombando in un sonno nero da cui mi sveglio solo al crepuscolo. Nel frattempo Gigi ha già incontrato Marco Martello di Varese, cicloviaggiatore di lungo corso che, per una connessione astrale incredibile, si trova qui, proprio a Nueva Morococha, anche lui in bici. Ha preso un anno sabbatico e va a sud, via Cordigliera, verso la Bolivia, l'Argentina e dove lo portano cuore e gambe. Ceniamo insieme, e la serata si fa ricca di storie e racconti di orizzonti lontani. Per essere precisi, Gigi mangia un po' di yuca fritta, mentre Marco ed io ci limitiamo a bere un mate: siamo entrambi gastroribaltati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aY0R4FT1f6HFiiU0cT06MwiOHe_PXkmf37grlOSZxoqyVTl9ue--trj3DaDP6lKiictkSRi6iWKXEDQnUwTu-34HYYGuAc-Wp-xwMSTFrx_NyBF59eEi9eR3XLmKjAang94PXnXOmqvXlfvw4cYuy-ylqVIITBzM-lyb1gmH4GLDPAXuCrLwDcUd/s1280/20220827_202853.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aY0R4FT1f6HFiiU0cT06MwiOHe_PXkmf37grlOSZxoqyVTl9ue--trj3DaDP6lKiictkSRi6iWKXEDQnUwTu-34HYYGuAc-Wp-xwMSTFrx_NyBF59eEi9eR3XLmKjAang94PXnXOmqvXlfvw4cYuy-ylqVIITBzM-lyb1gmH4GLDPAXuCrLwDcUd/s320/20220827_202853.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxTUHzNXqdObWF8LQjdSH3DiNieE9dcQrQMlgxf9EmBrlsvsJmcdzXLqSyhH_tXByE3Ugi72ckQS0-pXt9jkiAwHQw3S113m6ccM2m_8iKYv6cesrmA0kn-4PqhsxKoGd3wOXWNpMitF0SGNubcjsqJWBZFB9YBqxGeHQvlqXGTAg2YMur9Pr0vHZ/s1280/20220827_202858.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWxTUHzNXqdObWF8LQjdSH3DiNieE9dcQrQMlgxf9EmBrlsvsJmcdzXLqSyhH_tXByE3Ugi72ckQS0-pXt9jkiAwHQw3S113m6ccM2m_8iKYv6cesrmA0kn-4PqhsxKoGd3wOXWNpMitF0SGNubcjsqJWBZFB9YBqxGeHQvlqXGTAg2YMur9Pr0vHZ/s320/20220827_202858.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Domani è il gran giorno. Si scollina. Ci mancano 20km per raggiungere il passo Ticlio, e poi, da lì, è tutta discesa fino a Lima, fino all'oceano. Ci siamo quasi... Tra una pausetta e l'altra!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDzC7pvW5gUEpfavptZHX7QOY-rzMieI-mlttH7grRHwKq5Jg2Zf5yx1sIko5h_5htAIUNls-JY1seLL3_9W41WReICI2Hj6xgFQW6FmsXljaLuhPt-WukzCSjaDmJ7tcaHs9Ed5qNwDlWqHdnYuBD-TZsaVV7-uy1-ciOL0rrymVPehF1kk88lA41/s1280/IMG-20220827-WA0014.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDzC7pvW5gUEpfavptZHX7QOY-rzMieI-mlttH7grRHwKq5Jg2Zf5yx1sIko5h_5htAIUNls-JY1seLL3_9W41WReICI2Hj6xgFQW6FmsXljaLuhPt-WukzCSjaDmJ7tcaHs9Ed5qNwDlWqHdnYuBD-TZsaVV7-uy1-ciOL0rrymVPehF1kk88lA41/s320/IMG-20220827-WA0014.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Domenica, 28/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">Nueva Morococha - Passo Ticlio (4818m) - Matucana (2400m)</div><div style="text-align: left;">76km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Signore, signori, signor*, abbiamo fatto il passo. Non quello più lungo della gamba, anche se a tratti lo abbiamo pensato. Abbiamo fatto il passo Ticlio, 4818m di purissima bellezza, fatica, fiato corto, meraviglia.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Stamattina era tutto in forse. Ho passato una nottata terribile, in preda a spasmi e dolori addominali, divorata dall'infezione, a bruciare tra letto e cesso. Un inferno che non auguro veramente a nessuno, mai. Al suono della sveglia non mi ero ancora addormentata ed ero ridotta veramente male, ma così male che Gigi mi osservava come durante una veglia funebre. Per vestirmi e chiudere le borse ci ho impiegato due ore, rallentata dal freddo degli ambienti mai riscaldati e quasi sottozero, anche all'interno, e dalla debolezza. Ho preso la decisione di cambiare antibiotico, e pare funzioni. Stanotte vedremo.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Gigi mi propone più volte di prendere un passaggio, di non pedalare. Rifiuto, come da giorni. A questo passo voglio arrivare in sella, dovessi poi evaporare in una nuvola di diarrea gassosa al primo metro di discesa. E' una questione di principio. Non esiste il "non ci riesco" a prescidere. Ci provo. Poi vedremo.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Salutiamo Marco, che oggi va a La Oroya.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHdmVHW1QodM9StBFhUAc-QTGeQPKO-fcczISzeDvCQohzhG9SqO63sjIpnMtxpqnAGy4dh0yxGY5ZvwHIyiKa2UNgCh2e_GD8bJHpnEnRp5U1Znp1SGsDq3A-7KITz2Sf3BgfFtPNXZsVf8wO3dIBNgi6FxsDRKB2Dc5-5JxNWx7bIJhdX0x9utk/s1280/20220828_091146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBHdmVHW1QodM9StBFhUAc-QTGeQPKO-fcczISzeDvCQohzhG9SqO63sjIpnMtxpqnAGy4dh0yxGY5ZvwHIyiKa2UNgCh2e_GD8bJHpnEnRp5U1Znp1SGsDq3A-7KITz2Sf3BgfFtPNXZsVf8wO3dIBNgi6FxsDRKB2Dc5-5JxNWx7bIJhdX0x9utk/s320/20220828_091146.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>E iniziamo subito a smoccolare grosso. Per riprendere la strada principale, ci inerpichiamo su una sterrata ripida come la morte, dove facciamo fatica persino a camminare spingendo la bici. Le scarpe non fanno presa e si scivola, si casca all'indietro, mentre il fiato è già rimasto sul cuscino. Gigi va meglio, io devo fermarmi ogni dieci passi per non svenire.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hulWyaEUqXG8GzsBWwSKEqcQZBv746LJx02nKVyASOzfuyA1ZYttokMQod2us7nyNG3-WhuR_yP6DYqdvRv62jw5tRqOBaPKlMoeCSF_dy-kiebYJulyyfA-oK15NcMtVb0gN2ISfa97IitfOIDcI2O7zOcKGK_WS3rTpVq6_BDZ4kmMH5eSSXBy/s1280/20220828_092800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hulWyaEUqXG8GzsBWwSKEqcQZBv746LJx02nKVyASOzfuyA1ZYttokMQod2us7nyNG3-WhuR_yP6DYqdvRv62jw5tRqOBaPKlMoeCSF_dy-kiebYJulyyfA-oK15NcMtVb0gN2ISfa97IitfOIDcI2O7zOcKGK_WS3rTpVq6_BDZ4kmMH5eSSXBy/s320/20220828_092800.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Salutiamo la deserta Nueva ciudad di Morococha in un sole già limpido e caldo, per quanto sia prima mattina.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5tNxhVKeHOPq2gbqb8jweb7LN0nQk0DjYBw7q-IWY1pFWta_lxO9vIdSK1Al3bI9Ybsauw_hUVHWOAYai-uEE6f_oHrhfZ7o2yyPsXlVpnbRzl-nUZ5X9CbSe3edx9G0t79sWOxy6pIqO73HDe-2mZ16wm60w2Y1roT5SW0MsEy5JAbfc_OzDMHq9/s1280/20220828_093017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5tNxhVKeHOPq2gbqb8jweb7LN0nQk0DjYBw7q-IWY1pFWta_lxO9vIdSK1Al3bI9Ybsauw_hUVHWOAYai-uEE6f_oHrhfZ7o2yyPsXlVpnbRzl-nUZ5X9CbSe3edx9G0t79sWOxy6pIqO73HDe-2mZ16wm60w2Y1roT5SW0MsEy5JAbfc_OzDMHq9/s320/20220828_093017.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci attendono 20km di salita, con 600m di dislivello, dai 4200 ai 4800. Questi numeri sembrano dettagli, o ghirigori onanistici, ma sono la consapevolezza razionale che permette di affrontare una fatica che, per me, risulta TITANICA. So che la distanza è quella, quello il dislivello. Ogni tre minuti guardo komoot, che registra ogni passo, e mi convinco che siamo più vicin, anche solo di 100 metri. Uno sforzo del genere è tolleraile solo se razionalizzato, e dimensionato.</div><div><br /></div><div>Saliamo a Pucara, cittadina anonima d'altura, dove le pecore escono di casa insieme ai cristiani e tutti vanno a lavorare, masticando chi coca, chi fieno.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTxiKQE6VEOPbO_O4x092pJAbUO5E2783mcbSefJZ3knMKbVLceNBwnEYDLWnHC3I-r5KOFWg960eW4aSas9WDDpcHBgRK-3nyWbKBxlTF7loihcif9SKDBlbIzJWjjTFIK7vw_DOvdHnfc1cZ-wA3_wsJ4CHSuuV5pBJxgwkgFFePagjQkperu-9q/s1280/20220828_095005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTxiKQE6VEOPbO_O4x092pJAbUO5E2783mcbSefJZ3knMKbVLceNBwnEYDLWnHC3I-r5KOFWg960eW4aSas9WDDpcHBgRK-3nyWbKBxlTF7loihcif9SKDBlbIzJWjjTFIK7vw_DOvdHnfc1cZ-wA3_wsJ4CHSuuV5pBJxgwkgFFePagjQkperu-9q/s320/20220828_095005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHTLL7P6AKzSO5hViQnTkjL3YujspMNpmVIKT10nv7jYqw79VLDi4cUfGdsNB3zfxS9g0-R_2dpSYjtCA5An0Kt7ZURagCeB2dceARI9MLUkNeIzUcxui8HZeYaDapdZ4TR6CT1BKeufqBIPNanNlvpI8n5vzE8872IH0pVeR7KS6siPCa5bFRmjxH/s1280/20220828_095158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHTLL7P6AKzSO5hViQnTkjL3YujspMNpmVIKT10nv7jYqw79VLDi4cUfGdsNB3zfxS9g0-R_2dpSYjtCA5An0Kt7ZURagCeB2dceARI9MLUkNeIzUcxui8HZeYaDapdZ4TR6CT1BKeufqBIPNanNlvpI8n5vzE8872IH0pVeR7KS6siPCa5bFRmjxH/s320/20220828_095158.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Lasciata alle spalle quest'ultima cittadina, la strada serpeggia in un ambiente sempre più suggestivo, sempre più "altro mondo". La laguna Huascocha, più verde che azzurra, inaugura l'infilata di laghi e specchi d'acqua che impreziosiscono le vette qui. L'incontro di elementi essenziali, la roccia, l'acqua, il vento, danno la misura di quanto la natura si riduca al minimo, essenziale</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnDHtWxZgPzjklGAr0YC3aqX6IwlkWVpcaeCG5KHnJ7zLerEpf0TBRm6HjJA69elSwHH8E1O1gu0zAxWsQHDmHi9dzRxA2L_9fH_3aHg9P6q5wjWiJhlw2NercOTg99scdHboiWSWw81uV7sH4VaGUzViuFVYa9f17riX3UcASJ9TPFCVOlh2x7g41/s1280/20220828_095802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnDHtWxZgPzjklGAr0YC3aqX6IwlkWVpcaeCG5KHnJ7zLerEpf0TBRm6HjJA69elSwHH8E1O1gu0zAxWsQHDmHi9dzRxA2L_9fH_3aHg9P6q5wjWiJhlw2NercOTg99scdHboiWSWw81uV7sH4VaGUzViuFVYa9f17riX3UcASJ9TPFCVOlh2x7g41/s320/20220828_095802.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHjrSi9ilS8NtzJ0Jl0XG1QLzMNWYEQX0pmHSLbgqADAtpNqvWQgdSylkP6WJWsWHUyBYMJVc75ljjs7zdzyZ_UQPn928R5I6XSsPgDLUlhMuOWKCajfpcySK45MDFcj-FxiremNKjvUAD1zBE8BMbrQLolzl8NWU9Y_jN7jQBZk_JrPsJJHJdvuX/s1280/20220828_095810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHjrSi9ilS8NtzJ0Jl0XG1QLzMNWYEQX0pmHSLbgqADAtpNqvWQgdSylkP6WJWsWHUyBYMJVc75ljjs7zdzyZ_UQPn928R5I6XSsPgDLUlhMuOWKCajfpcySK45MDFcj-FxiremNKjvUAD1zBE8BMbrQLolzl8NWU9Y_jN7jQBZk_JrPsJJHJdvuX/s320/20220828_095810.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3PYtvGcth2VuviowZXVZJvZ0ed2BDZgJQgH8a8VSDZMbLLR7Krs0aODe2DA1VIMFdZc8HtBt524mc0Pfa56g_TUGHFYXrwG5DcGrch2KDOrh0B7UMkDl-k0q2lC80GS5kBqCmN1DgDqEZjt_4IqEFmoN7ofMi8gIBWe_4y4YLJy3SHQAeDdpnGZ-/s1280/20220828_095832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF3PYtvGcth2VuviowZXVZJvZ0ed2BDZgJQgH8a8VSDZMbLLR7Krs0aODe2DA1VIMFdZc8HtBt524mc0Pfa56g_TUGHFYXrwG5DcGrch2KDOrh0B7UMkDl-k0q2lC80GS5kBqCmN1DgDqEZjt_4IqEFmoN7ofMi8gIBWe_4y4YLJy3SHQAeDdpnGZ-/s320/20220828_095832.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Finchè si resta in falsopiano si riesce ancora ancora a pedalare in senso stretto, per quanto la testa sia leggerissima e le membra inconsistenti, quasi ingovernabili.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_mtJTt_KjXYC47JAK2y-SiwufLlfathD6DKwJtWD5szfUWtTYIMQFnQ-J_aj3oI9Uc29NW79OeGPqBZQ4w5vl9eTvbb_OXdAg9E2q6Tqd-R_esvxznYcVRDEn1OcaY7hvSj9M-cNHYdZdazj9rSLEfs8Yf8YJ4ick-qhpXYgJeeC8Pu7mOis0FH-T/s1280/20220828_095847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_mtJTt_KjXYC47JAK2y-SiwufLlfathD6DKwJtWD5szfUWtTYIMQFnQ-J_aj3oI9Uc29NW79OeGPqBZQ4w5vl9eTvbb_OXdAg9E2q6Tqd-R_esvxznYcVRDEn1OcaY7hvSj9M-cNHYdZdazj9rSLEfs8Yf8YJ4ick-qhpXYgJeeC8Pu7mOis0FH-T/s320/20220828_095847.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsMDvyW_f4yYGZ6RPnLU6bvqjOUqs2qDS-UjnUMbXWSKFaJEwgy8oXWXRG_WXIP2uFkvNaKhfllip6XlU8KwiNM0TVsAlzmdi63UT36MXuEWK0Ytb021QoD9zxhiQ-_G_8_nKLsnfEIGDlT-bSyG-v8P0I3yXwILZjouUBQkCBz9d0dUuzVDaNa_bC/s1280/20220828_100236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsMDvyW_f4yYGZ6RPnLU6bvqjOUqs2qDS-UjnUMbXWSKFaJEwgy8oXWXRG_WXIP2uFkvNaKhfllip6XlU8KwiNM0TVsAlzmdi63UT36MXuEWK0Ytb021QoD9zxhiQ-_G_8_nKLsnfEIGDlT-bSyG-v8P0I3yXwILZjouUBQkCBz9d0dUuzVDaNa_bC/s320/20220828_100236.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Quando però le pendenze si fanno poco più accentuate, si entra in una sorta di stato di trance, di incoscienza lucida. "Il cuore rallenta, la testa cammina"... Le gambe continuano a girare, pianissimo, e il corpo resta in equilibrio sulla bici, ma senza che ci sia il preciso ordine di farlo. La mente è troppo impegnata a resistere al sopore, che la porta a fondersi con gli elementi intorno. Si ha la percezione di sfumare, come se i contorni della pelle e dei vestiti si mescolassero in superficie con l'azzurro e la luce, con il rosso roccia e la sabbia chiara. Ci si con-fonde.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB_k5GhX1Sgd_krKhLUvIWjkIXVlEpGosnHXSYsejl0oav-y_O6Tgczf7KrjLNpiR1k80Z0Aizia-L9B0I4R4rFRrbmNYXGtHpRndX6jtseFkPt1bq4i9s_2Q3e9RNYBUcjkP6FxEKVlJa5jT5whh-p80t6EPyEZbL3hO0NJ00s1ey-HTb21E23IMG/s1280/20220828_101020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB_k5GhX1Sgd_krKhLUvIWjkIXVlEpGosnHXSYsejl0oav-y_O6Tgczf7KrjLNpiR1k80Z0Aizia-L9B0I4R4rFRrbmNYXGtHpRndX6jtseFkPt1bq4i9s_2Q3e9RNYBUcjkP6FxEKVlJa5jT5whh-p80t6EPyEZbL3hO0NJ00s1ey-HTb21E23IMG/s320/20220828_101020.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpgzuA4_QgyJhDnm3eA0yJ1ZMs6QinT_VA41HwyWn3DIiWDx6sS7vAbfZKWg0frIORWBUCTeU4c_vuaPN17DhuRbF14kLzpPQDxLTv8OnHFlEANEdwkZiaBzp81vYJ0NMF240NaP6sTYk0sxnQVLPKa-3JIUz1v8MVIPkkGJcVvc81kU0kKKPfzPB_/s1280/20220828_101031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpgzuA4_QgyJhDnm3eA0yJ1ZMs6QinT_VA41HwyWn3DIiWDx6sS7vAbfZKWg0frIORWBUCTeU4c_vuaPN17DhuRbF14kLzpPQDxLTv8OnHFlEANEdwkZiaBzp81vYJ0NMF240NaP6sTYk0sxnQVLPKa-3JIUz1v8MVIPkkGJcVvc81kU0kKKPfzPB_/s320/20220828_101031.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNH-E5jW1HkxRrrlaYd9RJp7dVaH8MWsyNp5jx-umfimqbtWi7d-enYo1NB3FPVkjnzgvTSZbZ69jynDa8ip36Ah0iDVHsjegw9r_5N8gqN8EWmHFZq32KwwNDlL6FIp767NYimErVqisc8Aarly_AradDMmLhyudTCSm0E9I9Zmw9UsUNtxwekln/s1280/20220828_101215(0).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWNH-E5jW1HkxRrrlaYd9RJp7dVaH8MWsyNp5jx-umfimqbtWi7d-enYo1NB3FPVkjnzgvTSZbZ69jynDa8ip36Ah0iDVHsjegw9r_5N8gqN8EWmHFZq32KwwNDlL6FIp767NYimErVqisc8Aarly_AradDMmLhyudTCSm0E9I9Zmw9UsUNtxwekln/s320/20220828_101215(0).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSxS3nWGl9XarsSbqvfBndhp5N45hp0zqTh3A4YMew2eTelp6jqCu5zUWTO2ahimiqtqZyiQDGISx-zMK5W3ZonivYL5o_ZdA3CPLA5uZ6weGewxCgzVvEWF6vf74Kj-2I9D7SqYocVcrYMSQKu_uxMPGZnDajZkJaaYOaAIIShCOk7OkcmbUpjXe/s1280/20220828_101557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSxS3nWGl9XarsSbqvfBndhp5N45hp0zqTh3A4YMew2eTelp6jqCu5zUWTO2ahimiqtqZyiQDGISx-zMK5W3ZonivYL5o_ZdA3CPLA5uZ6weGewxCgzVvEWF6vf74Kj-2I9D7SqYocVcrYMSQKu_uxMPGZnDajZkJaaYOaAIIShCOk7OkcmbUpjXe/s320/20220828_101557.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Oltre ai laghi, anche i monti intorno sono opere d'arte per forma e colori. Ricchi di minerali, sfruttati, scavati nelle viscere, riescono a mostrare il loro volto policromo che quasi è arte.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRzfSHvNdHuEtj09lGWnI-m8J-FprDgTIH6FKFuPtYzJKUrIMUnkldiltf5chxuwxNB5POo52WWZoZRE3IWCuZVheR0oZqA0EMwbWdsHCgVnogZVjmeH2anqRfDyrkgVnzGUUpQFJLw7ihXywoliyrAME2ZzgzNkeuc6gYSz_vS8OgYb1wkBiY-8Q8/s1280/20220828_102321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRzfSHvNdHuEtj09lGWnI-m8J-FprDgTIH6FKFuPtYzJKUrIMUnkldiltf5chxuwxNB5POo52WWZoZRE3IWCuZVheR0oZqA0EMwbWdsHCgVnogZVjmeH2anqRfDyrkgVnzGUUpQFJLw7ihXywoliyrAME2ZzgzNkeuc6gYSz_vS8OgYb1wkBiY-8Q8/s320/20220828_102321.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOSaQmSq_RaQhjnOSRh86gCRouqpGRCya5EIBqjzKdfI4P00Zsp0sRWLQu0RTEk8Uj7g5w_M2KJ4_1cM15Ws3mMgkNwyBl87noXaRJJE_yNbxJl-NG1CIfyRykOslpMjeyoB2kT5a56yU0PcroFf2XRi39J4jd5kbUxG3dvehPFy3V3AqLOwwHof9/s1280/20220828_102615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOSaQmSq_RaQhjnOSRh86gCRouqpGRCya5EIBqjzKdfI4P00Zsp0sRWLQu0RTEk8Uj7g5w_M2KJ4_1cM15Ws3mMgkNwyBl87noXaRJJE_yNbxJl-NG1CIfyRykOslpMjeyoB2kT5a56yU0PcroFf2XRi39J4jd5kbUxG3dvehPFy3V3AqLOwwHof9/s320/20220828_102615.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMj4cMivtfgoOcQVZCIOv0n6-GfLAsRQdWFU8rKXWGN2MTIoA2Q5Ox9wI0HI3UQpGZsxf02OO6-2MOSi2ViF0Z_EVR1CAt0Ncaa5CPksH_0fMSXEisgkt2Xq1JVu2LftXQwZk3pE97SjD6W9jDXVb8wXHAoadSoh5TTGIqleaQRxQvQiE8qWv4ru3Y/s1280/20220828_103500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMj4cMivtfgoOcQVZCIOv0n6-GfLAsRQdWFU8rKXWGN2MTIoA2Q5Ox9wI0HI3UQpGZsxf02OO6-2MOSi2ViF0Z_EVR1CAt0Ncaa5CPksH_0fMSXEisgkt2Xq1JVu2LftXQwZk3pE97SjD6W9jDXVb8wXHAoadSoh5TTGIqleaQRxQvQiE8qWv4ru3Y/s320/20220828_103500.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiwtMYELSFc96nBdiWnjxMHBua7Z_gZSoSHbCn88h_ZQQPUYvLyFSIbeD5R00ye2u3sfukjtIU_sU19R8qE4XuJi60-2bw49NTMppSNDxDz4Jn97JRTwZmXUo3bo_coMroMV2Ao6ogMpw8iCFG0WEX96ZBIYlOwP86elmFZmIA5kNSVfzlajJ46xK0/s1280/20220828_104204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiwtMYELSFc96nBdiWnjxMHBua7Z_gZSoSHbCn88h_ZQQPUYvLyFSIbeD5R00ye2u3sfukjtIU_sU19R8qE4XuJi60-2bw49NTMppSNDxDz4Jn97JRTwZmXUo3bo_coMroMV2Ao6ogMpw8iCFG0WEX96ZBIYlOwP86elmFZmIA5kNSVfzlajJ46xK0/s320/20220828_104204.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Inizia l'ultimo tratto di salita, e davvero qui non svenire è impresa ardua. Basta bere mentre si pedala per finire in apnea col fiatone che dura minuti. Le soste si fanno più frequenti, ma quando ci si ferma gira la testa ancor di più. Ma la sensazione di essere già a buon punto, già così in alto, nonostante tutto, dà una tale scarica di energia vitale da resuscitare i morti (e i quasi morti di cagotto).</div><div>Intorno, cave. Monti spianati, ruine multicolori, arcobaleni minerali.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cB64Wd8B48Va50hEkvP4mhbgShDGKGRnfSUijzSfgR2OcANN0chc5UkZtcKdXzB0pRN9z0k8hitKszHLH_zi2n4za1-afwbqe9M9DhZq9JPBsFW-5FzCS4XXIbMugocTiJzanzEhQFPSQqdBf_PMxVTEuDhnlS1EbiqPDFvKsHIP6n_6ibCgDwvv/s1280/20220828_105412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cB64Wd8B48Va50hEkvP4mhbgShDGKGRnfSUijzSfgR2OcANN0chc5UkZtcKdXzB0pRN9z0k8hitKszHLH_zi2n4za1-afwbqe9M9DhZq9JPBsFW-5FzCS4XXIbMugocTiJzanzEhQFPSQqdBf_PMxVTEuDhnlS1EbiqPDFvKsHIP6n_6ibCgDwvv/s320/20220828_105412.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxwnaFIq8WWmtu52W8QLgnANkDDUEpgPIxBWcQtYCLnBKKvzxGIvgKJktfg-IT4YWIChsj7TUbSiIgMkew0Kb4VaGU7V8YjnHysDzdGmDb8UcMf_3v9kBhMY0OcVkom2nm07lYLEIiFJaLE1aDcVEcsu6d9cu_DYV02Rr8I3NOTb-jaWR2MCrdr0iy/s1280/20220828_105611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxwnaFIq8WWmtu52W8QLgnANkDDUEpgPIxBWcQtYCLnBKKvzxGIvgKJktfg-IT4YWIChsj7TUbSiIgMkew0Kb4VaGU7V8YjnHysDzdGmDb8UcMf_3v9kBhMY0OcVkom2nm07lYLEIiFJaLE1aDcVEcsu6d9cu_DYV02Rr8I3NOTb-jaWR2MCrdr0iy/s320/20220828_105611.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHniB_rHBuSQk2SYnZdPpX8eQLsWhibgyWo1PKHS8knc1OJvLtnI_AUWsYzdFS9ci22aXVsAmZ4UH8FhKIO8mlLHlatVVzpvx4_8cWSPsPqWWnaIJeD2NGgSf3wyAE5ogQYyfKNxcIrIi26BkHFIjvvbR6AG1qi03QBjuTWI9bAh8GGN6eEmk0DaKh/s1280/20220828_105840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHniB_rHBuSQk2SYnZdPpX8eQLsWhibgyWo1PKHS8knc1OJvLtnI_AUWsYzdFS9ci22aXVsAmZ4UH8FhKIO8mlLHlatVVzpvx4_8cWSPsPqWWnaIJeD2NGgSf3wyAE5ogQYyfKNxcIrIi26BkHFIjvvbR6AG1qi03QBjuTWI9bAh8GGN6eEmk0DaKh/s320/20220828_105840.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4DP_4oBJKGfQ3jvSmD_E5bl3i6DAAZedWTRKYVijeF3PF5rXaPE2zRJQgwlI7_agzMpAOuyYrSCLT15e0W8RmL22M_g984uULffU7dvPRiMuo0D0pCEvHUzllRXSCTI6cDCCEkGT94CJ0NgwqfakQ8OCcF_7VyOM30Lwa74j4MMFof2Kn05dSKX0_/s1280/20220828_105847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4DP_4oBJKGfQ3jvSmD_E5bl3i6DAAZedWTRKYVijeF3PF5rXaPE2zRJQgwlI7_agzMpAOuyYrSCLT15e0W8RmL22M_g984uULffU7dvPRiMuo0D0pCEvHUzllRXSCTI6cDCCEkGT94CJ0NgwqfakQ8OCcF_7VyOM30Lwa74j4MMFof2Kn05dSKX0_/s320/20220828_105847.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir9iFFHZPv50PcnYMV4BpG02xpCaoMoumFn3b-C_p74Q3COuQrGhpqK1375OblNstvbKUzxAq-lHonU0fGiJbhTmCEv7Fpfaw8osZlpBNxKMewJw2vj-CUd11ci8vr_oQFlyndnKRjRPQQ-J8JGNYKw6SS4etKflogkWXtb16qPKO1cARbcbY1W1zL/s1280/20220828_110808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir9iFFHZPv50PcnYMV4BpG02xpCaoMoumFn3b-C_p74Q3COuQrGhpqK1375OblNstvbKUzxAq-lHonU0fGiJbhTmCEv7Fpfaw8osZlpBNxKMewJw2vj-CUd11ci8vr_oQFlyndnKRjRPQQ-J8JGNYKw6SS4etKflogkWXtb16qPKO1cARbcbY1W1zL/s320/20220828_110808.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOc0E95VrMxT-tY_cYmzhGMVEY_HXzjQ9H2fFJAIJEXwIYsmMvD8gtmTzUZ1W0jv29UGwA6718SLCAz-OwDWG-lOVGiPuTd_iDKQVl3NdPl12T_uKAhd2FHp_xdiEatd6iPCjP31jhl46xrJB6Y_xUR8yQV4sc8CLvbTOGhK7SIHFbWfmh7iLUBlnn/s1280/20220828_110811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOc0E95VrMxT-tY_cYmzhGMVEY_HXzjQ9H2fFJAIJEXwIYsmMvD8gtmTzUZ1W0jv29UGwA6718SLCAz-OwDWG-lOVGiPuTd_iDKQVl3NdPl12T_uKAhd2FHp_xdiEatd6iPCjP31jhl46xrJB6Y_xUR8yQV4sc8CLvbTOGhK7SIHFbWfmh7iLUBlnn/s320/20220828_110811.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Raggiungiamo la laguna Huacracocha, e siamo a 4700m. Le cime attorno son nere, spolverate di neve. Gli apu, gli spiriti delle vette, si chiamano Yanasinqa e Anticona</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqUr1z5KcH49s6i20UI6VjTgL4gejq_mY95xkAWSXUsSPJlY35fAbO44jZAWkCAvfpAv7tWGcRnvoN8SpADwE29WVj38JhrjBFzlbWslciD3AtzYDNVRIBteql_w2t1LZkwJbNCDiL2akhC0mdZvPZBBpMVLkUI871PWQ2jX0odvMtSMWrMj_Uzk3/s1280/20220828_111356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAqUr1z5KcH49s6i20UI6VjTgL4gejq_mY95xkAWSXUsSPJlY35fAbO44jZAWkCAvfpAv7tWGcRnvoN8SpADwE29WVj38JhrjBFzlbWslciD3AtzYDNVRIBteql_w2t1LZkwJbNCDiL2akhC0mdZvPZBBpMVLkUI871PWQ2jX0odvMtSMWrMj_Uzk3/s320/20220828_111356.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV5PZG1IpATS8idRbbHg2xp2sC1Tc9RavnsQcbDB9SZfo2yxgZXZKx6s6H4SMIZFwxDCX4jUzvUHZSKgSrP3Pg-39s5JqkZehT5mLj4ZPEq-5DUdYPUnmvO3omFcaKukq6UFjZlI3uOAnAaGHngOwSrscuxhqUVSdB_OSYtHxPZlgvpDo6H2kBFfBY/s1280/20220828_111958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV5PZG1IpATS8idRbbHg2xp2sC1Tc9RavnsQcbDB9SZfo2yxgZXZKx6s6H4SMIZFwxDCX4jUzvUHZSKgSrP3Pg-39s5JqkZehT5mLj4ZPEq-5DUdYPUnmvO3omFcaKukq6UFjZlI3uOAnAaGHngOwSrscuxhqUVSdB_OSYtHxPZlgvpDo6H2kBFfBY/s320/20220828_111958.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUf59k6B4OpU8GU6mu9kYtUdgAlwU4a8tiLgWxDFrunhZavDaTHaBQMM2mqNwk5RhXdu6SBMjvyB6y8yAsm5BBHY9rN_wNeLWAiKJ3eF6Kwfg1rdVaQdy1hJyd08y7bYfAOQwutOoqcbmbgGFvJOf7jWmwLIEM9bS6cnKk82IF7Zf2HoFSD7_1TKv/s1280/20220828_112036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUf59k6B4OpU8GU6mu9kYtUdgAlwU4a8tiLgWxDFrunhZavDaTHaBQMM2mqNwk5RhXdu6SBMjvyB6y8yAsm5BBHY9rN_wNeLWAiKJ3eF6Kwfg1rdVaQdy1hJyd08y7bYfAOQwutOoqcbmbgGFvJOf7jWmwLIEM9bS6cnKk82IF7Zf2HoFSD7_1TKv/s320/20220828_112036.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHyL9EKV2rbKhpbkeomGlPlvYy6lThlOtPOWpWWxuOp7gkvRihNP1XEd6_Z93jnymDswmM5R1S0IQjMxGL-UN7Xm4SuTYFrGHYXFZHbugDM81wknGZ0uSP1AjIDxdcm2ajuK_RixVXYrxwdTW1X6JUHwyp7MUDTKeeihKB9HVkPA3WYOTVYrbRGTjs/s1280/20220828_112337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHyL9EKV2rbKhpbkeomGlPlvYy6lThlOtPOWpWWxuOp7gkvRihNP1XEd6_Z93jnymDswmM5R1S0IQjMxGL-UN7Xm4SuTYFrGHYXFZHbugDM81wknGZ0uSP1AjIDxdcm2ajuK_RixVXYrxwdTW1X6JUHwyp7MUDTKeeihKB9HVkPA3WYOTVYrbRGTjs/s320/20220828_112337.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAdOBNP1Y2rH6OxzUmhm8wqQRVHUW7zfCYrpNoWiDMgKHcMfo9DYhYjw5cWRTjMhv0VAE5M5B-3IiWY_J_ddnhmtwqeYQNGOEw2F1XKU0lO1mfPB1NVWNJ7m8fIYt4yinL2kG7rth1jwLv73cLADRUDMtRqeGmACavTN8tZvCVkV8u_sybkrOlqaEM/s1280/20220828_112341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAdOBNP1Y2rH6OxzUmhm8wqQRVHUW7zfCYrpNoWiDMgKHcMfo9DYhYjw5cWRTjMhv0VAE5M5B-3IiWY_J_ddnhmtwqeYQNGOEw2F1XKU0lO1mfPB1NVWNJ7m8fIYt4yinL2kG7rth1jwLv73cLADRUDMtRqeGmACavTN8tZvCVkV8u_sybkrOlqaEM/s320/20220828_112341.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQmgMh3ruIhCTv8EFBIXyL9vm74gjMhiPQczNqNQ7xOLvqVZXnkdJvlSO0D5ysuciEcWCS_n9omypfAvbVc3khZ9z6Et9G0ij4lSxHRgELwJm2afiB6yOV9z03J9AvxWXZnQhbVs7_h3l1Nif8QbtRnf9ITQElKOZDeVMqiD-fi6_WUyS7CbMQaeOH/s1280/20220828_112558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQmgMh3ruIhCTv8EFBIXyL9vm74gjMhiPQczNqNQ7xOLvqVZXnkdJvlSO0D5ysuciEcWCS_n9omypfAvbVc3khZ9z6Et9G0ij4lSxHRgELwJm2afiB6yOV9z03J9AvxWXZnQhbVs7_h3l1Nif8QbtRnf9ITQElKOZDeVMqiD-fi6_WUyS7CbMQaeOH/s320/20220828_112558.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non sono in grado, onestamente, di dare descrizione efficace della grandiosità maestosa di queste alture. Pedalarci in mezzo, nel cuore, tra le costole, nel ventre, è un'esperienza estatica, letteralmente. Si esce da sè, si diventa parte del tutto.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0sTBbpvTEGYoDxaJuICgWxjS3czzu3Wr-pjMheNmPpRoPHEZYSVmHGI97KWD_07Kof4lHf0h0h7ZnEfaZz9Qr8sRq-ZEVxFGlPebG0iIbBIS9bVlp1h9Q-9B54LQaesliSTx-881znA89lix3a28BLpt4zENkTfVprgRjnzRy8FfOsSay5x2-6yRO/s1280/20220828_112846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0sTBbpvTEGYoDxaJuICgWxjS3czzu3Wr-pjMheNmPpRoPHEZYSVmHGI97KWD_07Kof4lHf0h0h7ZnEfaZz9Qr8sRq-ZEVxFGlPebG0iIbBIS9bVlp1h9Q-9B54LQaesliSTx-881znA89lix3a28BLpt4zENkTfVprgRjnzRy8FfOsSay5x2-6yRO/s320/20220828_112846.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Q9FgdZDRMftQX_OxO1r33PKw0uNjr3qIJDWd5IEfPuOzSMTePCuHOsgBMAg5nprvH48TVhpVrcFOd-9PdVhOdIZsQ2caeUMOvvl_QASl4qskbjiSeviTF01RdlmQDMPqpsWopcvjHEibpwVIgpzg4AcxZhCCNJcknCVjwSsILaQtyHuIAfSGkXek/s1280/20220828_112848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Q9FgdZDRMftQX_OxO1r33PKw0uNjr3qIJDWd5IEfPuOzSMTePCuHOsgBMAg5nprvH48TVhpVrcFOd-9PdVhOdIZsQ2caeUMOvvl_QASl4qskbjiSeviTF01RdlmQDMPqpsWopcvjHEibpwVIgpzg4AcxZhCCNJcknCVjwSsILaQtyHuIAfSGkXek/s320/20220828_112848.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUme8jph_hliDoSS7MdbDHEhGkDY4QyxnqPtgJibO_EU_969fRlaSdM9fCZ2OgrwqBiEPRmWW1xPDFpLYaQGM8943Kx0U8NqMQpxJPmNAYnMHN4Zg0S2320P7X2kDsDlLhcQDwPSamXJo5y5itZ8Kocl7G-4-IOV_v_r7uTlQDo3chzVpAzoPl9x_p/s1280/20220828_113607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUme8jph_hliDoSS7MdbDHEhGkDY4QyxnqPtgJibO_EU_969fRlaSdM9fCZ2OgrwqBiEPRmWW1xPDFpLYaQGM8943Kx0U8NqMQpxJPmNAYnMHN4Zg0S2320P7X2kDsDlLhcQDwPSamXJo5y5itZ8Kocl7G-4-IOV_v_r7uTlQDo3chzVpAzoPl9x_p/s320/20220828_113607.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LLP2U8JySJ2eOimTZntBxYe2OlozoqVahgI9bUT-1TTNmTmIo0iXgYS_2NeoxxJzTMHxVUcB_haSwBQv-L9Za7kvbMsyFXCbElLgVju7J1QBXr0n56rGg4IAiGp85WZ0hrQBlE42qshMJaGgebOIlEj3P1rEjCxmBoREEQFXUGE46kEdQ3vw0bQ5/s1280/20220828_113616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LLP2U8JySJ2eOimTZntBxYe2OlozoqVahgI9bUT-1TTNmTmIo0iXgYS_2NeoxxJzTMHxVUcB_haSwBQv-L9Za7kvbMsyFXCbElLgVju7J1QBXr0n56rGg4IAiGp85WZ0hrQBlE42qshMJaGgebOIlEj3P1rEjCxmBoREEQFXUGE46kEdQ3vw0bQ5/s320/20220828_113616.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04KvGGK_ggpzYE5q6RBA5iF7-ix5YAmvK6PpIa5fShYh3Hbw6qpzMlI946qdLmzfaKJQ4CKsiWlrKBU4dV8QiF8ynVwVezSqX4y_pk3svfe2mnK5lqI0JfV8GIgAxt-xAekXE5WlLra_CH8Ci33aZ3g8iHQNDphe5c8fhW-KSeVRWujdkHy84EKqk/s1280/20220828_114807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04KvGGK_ggpzYE5q6RBA5iF7-ix5YAmvK6PpIa5fShYh3Hbw6qpzMlI946qdLmzfaKJQ4CKsiWlrKBU4dV8QiF8ynVwVezSqX4y_pk3svfe2mnK5lqI0JfV8GIgAxt-xAekXE5WlLra_CH8Ci33aZ3g8iHQNDphe5c8fhW-KSeVRWujdkHy84EKqk/s320/20220828_114807.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEMgtBv3mMBhEF-CIrlhn1fUMJMyGqpvjFj2Xf2JAEtv78W-xwlERbHKDQhyi_bBgIDNrKp3dCK2vIaxuiyhUD0ZMPDVAXMjIZ6nSnliKO8auJQZs8TqSdzJUwcb_Y6Wns9l5Tm45do7bTeyobNlkTSJCtVrtnFCCHTNjGvrdN7q6MwNtVyhS2P7oq/s1280/20220828_115240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEMgtBv3mMBhEF-CIrlhn1fUMJMyGqpvjFj2Xf2JAEtv78W-xwlERbHKDQhyi_bBgIDNrKp3dCK2vIaxuiyhUD0ZMPDVAXMjIZ6nSnliKO8auJQZs8TqSdzJUwcb_Y6Wns9l5Tm45do7bTeyobNlkTSJCtVrtnFCCHTNjGvrdN7q6MwNtVyhS2P7oq/s320/20220828_115240.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBKR6Owjhq7zvB8kwYaJzrmivI5445r01CfGelQS6qdRwNEhHkClCIUi-UMTNUZWZCyJ41TF0JkKvol6A11sr6WJDDvkXLTwI6z-KWKIKweOZDbxa_XtNd__QY7chs1h6gWtKgI3WVD3Jl0Sib0VCSGwbm0YBEZ6fikho1dPxsI9vTxhxwl-muxyq/s1280/20220828_115354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBKR6Owjhq7zvB8kwYaJzrmivI5445r01CfGelQS6qdRwNEhHkClCIUi-UMTNUZWZCyJ41TF0JkKvol6A11sr6WJDDvkXLTwI6z-KWKIKweOZDbxa_XtNd__QY7chs1h6gWtKgI3WVD3Jl0Sib0VCSGwbm0YBEZ6fikho1dPxsI9vTxhxwl-muxyq/s320/20220828_115354.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Lascio che siano le immagini a parlare. Per me è facile aver contezza dell'immensità imponente, perchè ero lì, minuscola formichina tra giganti di pietra.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHi81NFktqZsuoxzgry8ewYSrUtw1IbU2m-TNjX7Gbm5S54nek68dgM80M5_kvgcp67TjgVc4Eivyv4PxEP_zF_MQctviStKqWIZbz_LA8_3pnt-aupDItyiXVulH2cCMz02LgRShz0DncL9MQ5dECEXpmrwftIDWUK3gh0piaEsBmIkijpReocJhC/s1280/20220828_115852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHi81NFktqZsuoxzgry8ewYSrUtw1IbU2m-TNjX7Gbm5S54nek68dgM80M5_kvgcp67TjgVc4Eivyv4PxEP_zF_MQctviStKqWIZbz_LA8_3pnt-aupDItyiXVulH2cCMz02LgRShz0DncL9MQ5dECEXpmrwftIDWUK3gh0piaEsBmIkijpReocJhC/s320/20220828_115852.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZbQqpSTAYZ8mrsuZH3nbuaIVrFP9rgy2vRLQUDLlS6LypB3E-3oWQRzGCYXFClfwbk4tdwAv8mDGliCbrXBWhiPzTRx0d2QDucnviA3wuRpkfNAMJXpkOhKq-f3RUsCXf9m3TnnJ8VVkfjYaOrsu-DMeDCrKCB4ydvm4EEyqBpu8VVYjSiidOe11f/s1280/20220828_120606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZbQqpSTAYZ8mrsuZH3nbuaIVrFP9rgy2vRLQUDLlS6LypB3E-3oWQRzGCYXFClfwbk4tdwAv8mDGliCbrXBWhiPzTRx0d2QDucnviA3wuRpkfNAMJXpkOhKq-f3RUsCXf9m3TnnJ8VVkfjYaOrsu-DMeDCrKCB4ydvm4EEyqBpu8VVYjSiidOe11f/s320/20220828_120606.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2uB4B7v-vN6WW9FxWyDzvoa8WvBqSoK6xOuW-4rYuhY3wOgJ0nxShH4yR6ySydx5biJrjwrzVGar_goLMfQxWUkxdgKyVgYTl7l25aC_-MYHd5DPkhgYEJdIq40OwOuWBw-k3gm43hgMlicOqfku-h8AsVNugpZ7UpjxrGx89hcr_966dto7ucvA9/s1280/20220828_120658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2uB4B7v-vN6WW9FxWyDzvoa8WvBqSoK6xOuW-4rYuhY3wOgJ0nxShH4yR6ySydx5biJrjwrzVGar_goLMfQxWUkxdgKyVgYTl7l25aC_-MYHd5DPkhgYEJdIq40OwOuWBw-k3gm43hgMlicOqfku-h8AsVNugpZ7UpjxrGx89hcr_966dto7ucvA9/s320/20220828_120658.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLRMDC5W3ziXh5m8vncS6jzgwNjn_YeP700JNFWm4kq-OYtCciGpr2giEyrYU-kk7r5hP2gI7u2bqTV8qVL3zACan1lFgF_3kotyn4UxZYPvtc7SSJVd8Kv-g_bCAD6cWLmxuZLiIatQ6oQqtUgvqGMbrrPOMCt6xY7F3g5zAl5V2iWxxC5dXqDN4K/s1280/20220828_120712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLRMDC5W3ziXh5m8vncS6jzgwNjn_YeP700JNFWm4kq-OYtCciGpr2giEyrYU-kk7r5hP2gI7u2bqTV8qVL3zACan1lFgF_3kotyn4UxZYPvtc7SSJVd8Kv-g_bCAD6cWLmxuZLiIatQ6oQqtUgvqGMbrrPOMCt6xY7F3g5zAl5V2iWxxC5dXqDN4K/s320/20220828_120712.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfQXbjEm6Tp-SSqbKrC_GVTKHHH5cq-CCRkcCyHuSGYscY8BuTIYkqDJIq-MZSgtoqY9qAJ8UWPR44BaHK7vbYUS_zIhQs0SurizULfjiqsGgkFukCe7-S-vqmjg2Lce4skhoTg5JYusIrZjITINS5yPoTdEz-lPGe2Cl2TijwdzDN-WpqteUQd6d/s1280/20220828_122042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfQXbjEm6Tp-SSqbKrC_GVTKHHH5cq-CCRkcCyHuSGYscY8BuTIYkqDJIq-MZSgtoqY9qAJ8UWPR44BaHK7vbYUS_zIhQs0SurizULfjiqsGgkFukCe7-S-vqmjg2Lce4skhoTg5JYusIrZjITINS5yPoTdEz-lPGe2Cl2TijwdzDN-WpqteUQd6d/s320/20220828_122042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nel giro di un attimo, o di un'eternità, chè gli estremi convergono, eccoci. Komoot indica 4820m. Ci siamo. E' il passo. L'ultimo scollinare. Da qui sarà tutta discesa, fino all'oceano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghiZ96I_svMG8qmKH1aMWvTRQEXPkStLlKrKqWzCK8SPVsrEABcBzgts_SvCrX7d-V9k-w94gxUQOWgaMBd__NVf7MyDTh89ON4EFN-Y1AlVLsAM20-cdgeBqL9ZLPUlAv3ul5YU_c7xxnqbO8TK5hMz9-4vVmNQ7tZIcb_joNufAh16uZ9LF4FsVp/s1280/20220828_123138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghiZ96I_svMG8qmKH1aMWvTRQEXPkStLlKrKqWzCK8SPVsrEABcBzgts_SvCrX7d-V9k-w94gxUQOWgaMBd__NVf7MyDTh89ON4EFN-Y1AlVLsAM20-cdgeBqL9ZLPUlAv3ul5YU_c7xxnqbO8TK5hMz9-4vVmNQ7tZIcb_joNufAh16uZ9LF4FsVp/s320/20220828_123138.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Le foto di rito per celebrare l'impresa sono il minimo, tutto considerato. Nei pressi dei cartelli ci sono diversi venditori ambulanti un po' aggressivi, motociclisti e automobilisti che si immortalano e un ragazzo in gravel e bikepacking leggerissimo. E' inglese ma vive a Lima e sta facendo una scalatina della domenica (4800m di dislivello in 150km). Nota enciclopedica: il cartello mente, non è questo il passaggio ferroviario più alto al mondo. Non più. Il primato è detenuto dalla linea Xining-Lhasa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs2EG2yMo2IpO3Fd6NMC_CCt_kTQa0Ouxj0vcvkOoDZZs6xPfCtxZs-rhKXjfkMsPlbWx5cf0ngAwxz156VXyw8YFcB8YwJ5msGSTCCntwvFhKVelwTo-Jgg9lOieoPPUD8SfQrGVjhtGV93L4ri5QOAUufNC4ULi7f-8vSEEX1S526SYgfw9-nzli/s1280/20220828_123842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs2EG2yMo2IpO3Fd6NMC_CCt_kTQa0Ouxj0vcvkOoDZZs6xPfCtxZs-rhKXjfkMsPlbWx5cf0ngAwxz156VXyw8YFcB8YwJ5msGSTCCntwvFhKVelwTo-Jgg9lOieoPPUD8SfQrGVjhtGV93L4ri5QOAUufNC4ULi7f-8vSEEX1S526SYgfw9-nzli/s320/20220828_123842.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBcjdqZ3Ie99K1-FqWhSiIzgmXfbB5vRug0vEGWgwHS_yNoAzelfqvh6s4egvUNsWENoiPu9R_-tPNMxRe0IqdnYnT_nnG6bTvLNGn4zufhsGnnOjeUsfAmesX_yxkLsxi4H9P3AXFEo7gpHlbMZgVA24bxk64muIpVTANDSEAao4gkXvxm_Lw8gz/s1280/20220828_124028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBcjdqZ3Ie99K1-FqWhSiIzgmXfbB5vRug0vEGWgwHS_yNoAzelfqvh6s4egvUNsWENoiPu9R_-tPNMxRe0IqdnYnT_nnG6bTvLNGn4zufhsGnnOjeUsfAmesX_yxkLsxi4H9P3AXFEo7gpHlbMZgVA24bxk64muIpVTANDSEAao4gkXvxm_Lw8gz/s320/20220828_124028.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Rapidi ci copriamo con tutti gli strati possibili: tra vento gelido, sole velato e discesa fa e farà freddo per i prossimi 56km. Ci bardiamo stile Amundsen e via, in picchiata di testa giù per la Carretera central che d questo lato è molto più ripida e attorcigliata di tornanti.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdeQQyZZJO6BPO7eeAeDvCj6M4AvLjAcq3eK1PvV2Vz95DKgiTc7ToVsUdiGMlxh0MvDO5Qv4kcg8xk8cu_CiVmT-wy288W0nNrt8GrZ5Xj70itAEUhbJhC6syYUwdkRq_XdTegQzze565fu1MFkageJKKHUCbPC5rsPWJgeloq4CxKJkQkM-pvYd/s1280/20220828_125703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCdeQQyZZJO6BPO7eeAeDvCj6M4AvLjAcq3eK1PvV2Vz95DKgiTc7ToVsUdiGMlxh0MvDO5Qv4kcg8xk8cu_CiVmT-wy288W0nNrt8GrZ5Xj70itAEUhbJhC6syYUwdkRq_XdTegQzze565fu1MFkageJKKHUCbPC5rsPWJgeloq4CxKJkQkM-pvYd/s320/20220828_125703.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Anche a scendere il panorama toglie il fiato, e non più per la fatica, ma per la sola bellezza.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ9AwGAHirHYW6a1dmztCiD6KY9RfmjKr9ax4vaJ37YDK1XWD_qv09IiT93r733UQ9z9qMU5mxsX9hPWeFCBUnZJslqeN8L0XXhYtU0IE4-hyqg1fbaltfKrSNaId4exzJvaGYyml6iY4-BQEDq0DKhxc_AXil4bYOgNtcTPCQ5g-2pBez8EFNbtQO/s1280/20220828_130140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ9AwGAHirHYW6a1dmztCiD6KY9RfmjKr9ax4vaJ37YDK1XWD_qv09IiT93r733UQ9z9qMU5mxsX9hPWeFCBUnZJslqeN8L0XXhYtU0IE4-hyqg1fbaltfKrSNaId4exzJvaGYyml6iY4-BQEDq0DKhxc_AXil4bYOgNtcTPCQ5g-2pBez8EFNbtQO/s320/20220828_130140.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTHZBY-nJujfPBXhS51UqvOJoXQk4K22H399isR10rDZcK283W8Zq8vU4Cg8P9skHUadcU7JefYnmSkn06rjnwSUoMNCsRIIfdwX-6D2ptDSB1PNTQ4ohYI_LjsrSFhfpV6ltNk97Y3N8FdACSR3SN9DWItsV3MzGwBx4Unjj4Nu2wNUYr0vEjxjD/s1280/20220828_130222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTHZBY-nJujfPBXhS51UqvOJoXQk4K22H399isR10rDZcK283W8Zq8vU4Cg8P9skHUadcU7JefYnmSkn06rjnwSUoMNCsRIIfdwX-6D2ptDSB1PNTQ4ohYI_LjsrSFhfpV6ltNk97Y3N8FdACSR3SN9DWItsV3MzGwBx4Unjj4Nu2wNUYr0vEjxjD/s320/20220828_130222.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhWEpl-ghqf9kfRUap0yV4pIp4NodlxwmPaKU6j9e1kym_e2Ja8A12u2dDlh9fGWbIkXMO9DHLK6vVGPniM6NjaUk_osqdcIFND5uEtMFMCB2PyKZDcA7MW3kJux__iRQoylmxRbtcMQ_Ljr-CYRvqkxF_dY5jNEUO2N_8e1WEfrLbpLTaiQAQafj/s1280/20220828_130411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhWEpl-ghqf9kfRUap0yV4pIp4NodlxwmPaKU6j9e1kym_e2Ja8A12u2dDlh9fGWbIkXMO9DHLK6vVGPniM6NjaUk_osqdcIFND5uEtMFMCB2PyKZDcA7MW3kJux__iRQoylmxRbtcMQ_Ljr-CYRvqkxF_dY5jNEUO2N_8e1WEfrLbpLTaiQAQafj/s320/20220828_130411.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDggOSvEhIdaYI7djx7xmN8gv6o2R0EYS4eKuDo0x_UPg4hu6EI_tR9MIrBuYN6WqMU3MU29OtQtgJDZwiyO_jkOVgkydKIlaXK7UDBY12S9qTM3EF5V65RKAsbaG_JpH7f0-SMtGkf5DCdcSuNgB1Dhm_iL0tJwGRLddganiPAZyGXb3t_vrtLsZ7/s1280/20220828_130638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDggOSvEhIdaYI7djx7xmN8gv6o2R0EYS4eKuDo0x_UPg4hu6EI_tR9MIrBuYN6WqMU3MU29OtQtgJDZwiyO_jkOVgkydKIlaXK7UDBY12S9qTM3EF5V65RKAsbaG_JpH7f0-SMtGkf5DCdcSuNgB1Dhm_iL0tJwGRLddganiPAZyGXb3t_vrtLsZ7/s320/20220828_130638.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ogni tanto ci fermiamo a far foto e a riprendere mobilità delle mani e della schiena, o a tirare i freni, che ormai sono agli sgoccioli. Il rosso e l'ocra della roccia fanno risaltare gli specchi d'acqua ed è un volo. La lingua, la gola e le labbra tornano ad umidificarsi un poco: in altura si asciugano, e si spaccano e sanguinano.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVKwKUe0ecvR-Nk5CDMsFSz0nJu6a6-a0lDxZWpIhwlsVKzQpbL69-TI3k1o6R5ui1EEehCvsrNI3ouSX8SG7gIaGmAoiHthZImi4hQAEFBhr2Tygaa1lpl1U-M85TccMOX-EZtpTfHKPGxF56tf0yPQADnCg6IhYvCMQgS9pr_wG6Q21NFjOuQklf/s1280/20220828_130830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVKwKUe0ecvR-Nk5CDMsFSz0nJu6a6-a0lDxZWpIhwlsVKzQpbL69-TI3k1o6R5ui1EEehCvsrNI3ouSX8SG7gIaGmAoiHthZImi4hQAEFBhr2Tygaa1lpl1U-M85TccMOX-EZtpTfHKPGxF56tf0yPQADnCg6IhYvCMQgS9pr_wG6Q21NFjOuQklf/s320/20220828_130830.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMK6HSYgVkNRJhbJe0vxwPyVDwdX1OfOGbZu_Xz7KG6CRBGE45I34xfhKRS0I0poWTR6zSOA2un4IRACGpFULCmBJY9PAnneTDUQYpZzPmoR2VMmZuDFjScf56x_tRTytzFBRda-p7EDWety51tvR0su7jN68tnDz4bIBFHFm_E_s6_nqbzy-OYkq/s1280/20220828_130842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMK6HSYgVkNRJhbJe0vxwPyVDwdX1OfOGbZu_Xz7KG6CRBGE45I34xfhKRS0I0poWTR6zSOA2un4IRACGpFULCmBJY9PAnneTDUQYpZzPmoR2VMmZuDFjScf56x_tRTytzFBRda-p7EDWety51tvR0su7jN68tnDz4bIBFHFm_E_s6_nqbzy-OYkq/s320/20220828_130842.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZz-lnfFhrubb9cWsqz8zA6E5G3NDVsfzhBIls3KkVkLcjatCEg_71eMg1zKTn7KafqeiniciVszoBPYLHJknWe3shmqiTJTdImK_qqixdKBVQzGLrEgDbynpbCj9jf1HopXIBIuAKRnEkDr8kUQazUKcwXwfuRzdI4nJSQYH67VAb55qrrw6Z-QJ/s1280/20220828_130845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZz-lnfFhrubb9cWsqz8zA6E5G3NDVsfzhBIls3KkVkLcjatCEg_71eMg1zKTn7KafqeiniciVszoBPYLHJknWe3shmqiTJTdImK_qqixdKBVQzGLrEgDbynpbCj9jf1HopXIBIuAKRnEkDr8kUQazUKcwXwfuRzdI4nJSQYH67VAb55qrrw6Z-QJ/s320/20220828_130845.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2eah-xZt9DpGKLtlYcv1iuvs8GKzdBD0QU6MzT_dD3Lqu4WlC_FNz1oQz3_8QyrWTxDr3aNVjVx_X3p7cbPhQYW19mYJjPldNXTU9-quiEiTbNHKsb4Pi1EGakNL8LytyjuPx4etM-uroAmxhU-45yAojn8k8x4GIQcOxrOoYsfEwfAU2kWsaYBS/s1280/20220828_131840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX2eah-xZt9DpGKLtlYcv1iuvs8GKzdBD0QU6MzT_dD3Lqu4WlC_FNz1oQz3_8QyrWTxDr3aNVjVx_X3p7cbPhQYW19mYJjPldNXTU9-quiEiTbNHKsb4Pi1EGakNL8LytyjuPx4etM-uroAmxhU-45yAojn8k8x4GIQcOxrOoYsfEwfAU2kWsaYBS/s320/20220828_131840.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5Sa23SXj2JB0Z1shFEW0ikDCqmuEwzSnRruHvgTnGzXTyt9yH0wAYnNqGV86wx9CWK_0lUaTUn_hmGPMvc37_0cJJb57dPb1xgiHS2YiU1BDQmne4ekNqY6sJIExERHp5fabur2d9etABuM9ZwY08Q-IaiyyOqbvoe3p3x4loiotuQoYuwk3Po5-/s1280/20220828_131846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ5Sa23SXj2JB0Z1shFEW0ikDCqmuEwzSnRruHvgTnGzXTyt9yH0wAYnNqGV86wx9CWK_0lUaTUn_hmGPMvc37_0cJJb57dPb1xgiHS2YiU1BDQmne4ekNqY6sJIExERHp5fabur2d9etABuM9ZwY08Q-IaiyyOqbvoe3p3x4loiotuQoYuwk3Po5-/s320/20220828_131846.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjex24pQqSCcCNjmTX6huqfAPeKuzUM7ywiXuXWcd8ouzTjtO4D44QL2XUv_IJS1sDRUexdNPj7rpBWY_5XCvtwmGWfkHUU6hjS5W7fCSPkIPy_uNIl1j5nM-71qIKFqsYC-GI9YkF13LsITjvNfOssUJGIdnsOlC11I28xE8qxzxw8p2N1OP8kQQim/s1280/20220828_131856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjex24pQqSCcCNjmTX6huqfAPeKuzUM7ywiXuXWcd8ouzTjtO4D44QL2XUv_IJS1sDRUexdNPj7rpBWY_5XCvtwmGWfkHUU6hjS5W7fCSPkIPy_uNIl1j5nM-71qIKFqsYC-GI9YkF13LsITjvNfOssUJGIdnsOlC11I28xE8qxzxw8p2N1OP8kQQim/s320/20220828_131856.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNjxksXoxojgWNfeUdH7_VYlIYR_T2lOt3ICpL9QlIRB86LmFCferqWWR_tQUHDOrMRJsp7mjhRkCmQMe1BkRK6P4N4BcRp_WolJ26EwTDv_JmKdl8juwFc0sHzUprqaH1mQaui3mThkH3U4tsh5set3_j0h3ITIv3e4gIrIKAjkB5NNqZF5FksPu9/s1280/20220828_131904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNjxksXoxojgWNfeUdH7_VYlIYR_T2lOt3ICpL9QlIRB86LmFCferqWWR_tQUHDOrMRJsp7mjhRkCmQMe1BkRK6P4N4BcRp_WolJ26EwTDv_JmKdl8juwFc0sHzUprqaH1mQaui3mThkH3U4tsh5set3_j0h3ITIv3e4gIrIKAjkB5NNqZF5FksPu9/s320/20220828_131904.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo aver superato formazioni rocciose che paiono uscite da Marte, raggiungiamo i primi paesini di questo versante. Sono spogli e malconci, baracche e lamiere dove pastori andini vendono il formaggio. Più si scende, più assumono invece il profilo di cittadine. Casapalca, Chicla, San Mateo... Tutti scorrono in infilata. Ci fermiamo solo per un mate caldo, visto che,oltretutto, siamo pure in anticipo sui tempi calcolati.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPh7r2BBcna8OkJyCs8EqIKP8M4R5LG6nJTYc_xp_sgbeY_RKBCIq1K3RkeVgnxL_poav9d6QCJZ8qqmx2VkZ61Ck55ndJADfdRGPsFVwX9CirDbV_2I_yB1xLCKUZhvV8tTFvLq_Ru-Vr0swU4kVmQFr_nDvDUYShDca5teIQIcPMaJe2XxfZIksf/s1280/20220828_144233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPh7r2BBcna8OkJyCs8EqIKP8M4R5LG6nJTYc_xp_sgbeY_RKBCIq1K3RkeVgnxL_poav9d6QCJZ8qqmx2VkZ61Ck55ndJADfdRGPsFVwX9CirDbV_2I_yB1xLCKUZhvV8tTFvLq_Ru-Vr0swU4kVmQFr_nDvDUYShDca5teIQIcPMaJe2XxfZIksf/s320/20220828_144233.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSuwDAIJhDqxGrZSIhuIgBfoLYRI8nUJVB-0vEBw2Uz8fXgHHAyUD-I-2SX1iVxlp8Wbnyz0pL7e0LzA28gnoG-RCGzHJ8qCGIi7wPcKKPQMnLNgM6s4H9biviJMwj0PMOYiJyDWeo-XIwvkZgM2ooRq5OnzVjz8vBflCKUnmDTZ95G1vBOBcKCUG6/s1280/20220828_144246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSuwDAIJhDqxGrZSIhuIgBfoLYRI8nUJVB-0vEBw2Uz8fXgHHAyUD-I-2SX1iVxlp8Wbnyz0pL7e0LzA28gnoG-RCGzHJ8qCGIi7wPcKKPQMnLNgM6s4H9biviJMwj0PMOYiJyDWeo-XIwvkZgM2ooRq5OnzVjz8vBflCKUnmDTZ95G1vBOBcKCUG6/s320/20220828_144246.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il secondo tratto di discesa diventa ancor più incredibile e espettacolare. Pare di essere sulle montagne russe... Anzi, peruane! La valle si chiude in un canyon che tenta di rimangiarsi la strada, e solo il fiume lo tiene a distanza. Si vola tra altissime pareti di roccia scura e, qua e là, si inforcano gallerie e ponti. Mai stata su giostre così divertenti e grandiose!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOhe4brCUlFnciNiStB8n13AWB2_AGedas6HifwNOq8lo_E9gqXHxZfg15EWI4RD9L7yDQ8vxTGS0f4ofBhlISEfGA-c8yQk0pIp1SW_1upbaIhb8PCxg80X43mCSEGTVy44_5crOyUzHWdsHjCMgq-f38H0jq9bKXzn9BOLbrzbPjjstaw6RU90Ri/s1280/20220828_145425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOhe4brCUlFnciNiStB8n13AWB2_AGedas6HifwNOq8lo_E9gqXHxZfg15EWI4RD9L7yDQ8vxTGS0f4ofBhlISEfGA-c8yQk0pIp1SW_1upbaIhb8PCxg80X43mCSEGTVy44_5crOyUzHWdsHjCMgq-f38H0jq9bKXzn9BOLbrzbPjjstaw6RU90Ri/s320/20220828_145425.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFUGMvlx7kGeasvtcRBWZ_XjhpQAc2IOA2XFjDyR9cxjpLgUcDKWWsA29EuSdqb3iC6ZhwNxCrNs9x_KaIG7G6Fcz1Jv3mU4p1KebsXt2gBOD3WPdN1FiYw07WFkgusiyUwZiD5dyuKJSvxwnVK18Aaw93VYTg1-P_MqUcWOiPodpmFFFHe3if6NX/s1280/20220828_145609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFUGMvlx7kGeasvtcRBWZ_XjhpQAc2IOA2XFjDyR9cxjpLgUcDKWWsA29EuSdqb3iC6ZhwNxCrNs9x_KaIG7G6Fcz1Jv3mU4p1KebsXt2gBOD3WPdN1FiYw07WFkgusiyUwZiD5dyuKJSvxwnVK18Aaw93VYTg1-P_MqUcWOiPodpmFFFHe3if6NX/s320/20220828_145609.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKyXzPkjiBo2vnjLNgOMUJYyjkHpm1yHEk7pDgmLDEGjwOFTUw-6uhg825ClDHZqhkaUDyqh89x2VBVI7QWHzQmQ0V9gFHVzDAa_7tsWVtToboSUDn059faIa72P0Fz4NfBxTMaU9NSF4SjMpsDGzLDvmvMzHDHl_8NAe-QQwU26UK0Uh2b8lmTxQ/s1280/20220828_145941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKyXzPkjiBo2vnjLNgOMUJYyjkHpm1yHEk7pDgmLDEGjwOFTUw-6uhg825ClDHZqhkaUDyqh89x2VBVI7QWHzQmQ0V9gFHVzDAa_7tsWVtToboSUDn059faIa72P0Fz4NfBxTMaU9NSF4SjMpsDGzLDvmvMzHDHl_8NAe-QQwU26UK0Uh2b8lmTxQ/s320/20220828_145941.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSOTiuYDhna4ZED00PemyIEsvdyPe96IMxmmYFQfIb69dsjxU02WKw4oGRgUfYyAf7THKk4sXVFwAc7RMoI2TzHrDz77Sfj8k2AaF56n7phfLD6RSRapeOnJGqqEZrNCD0EpsxN-nhjEL8T7UJrHqQaBQoP3FvxgSENiMe3HyqY9jRKBdlV_BezJc/s1280/20220828_150415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSOTiuYDhna4ZED00PemyIEsvdyPe96IMxmmYFQfIb69dsjxU02WKw4oGRgUfYyAf7THKk4sXVFwAc7RMoI2TzHrDz77Sfj8k2AaF56n7phfLD6RSRapeOnJGqqEZrNCD0EpsxN-nhjEL8T7UJrHqQaBQoP3FvxgSENiMe3HyqY9jRKBdlV_BezJc/s320/20220828_150415.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuFQVW3uLXulxHibfoaNlOvyKHivWXzeJ_HlalDFMcl0WVMqsaJs9nGBv0dBRPV-FlpxnPRHitaS0PsRa1NAPGRGIKU8gFZ_YOdnCP9WL9L9anjvq5nY6wUfi5-tXhpi83Zm4EQlZC-BcMBdrut2j1OjeljTjBUxs9to4TPe94UPlAiwvcHySGqm-n/s1280/20220828_153000.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuFQVW3uLXulxHibfoaNlOvyKHivWXzeJ_HlalDFMcl0WVMqsaJs9nGBv0dBRPV-FlpxnPRHitaS0PsRa1NAPGRGIKU8gFZ_YOdnCP9WL9L9anjvq5nY6wUfi5-tXhpi83Zm4EQlZC-BcMBdrut2j1OjeljTjBUxs9to4TPe94UPlAiwvcHySGqm-n/s320/20220828_153000.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLUk7Lv8PhBQAqgmZ8pTEh0xob6VveY3BUGcTYDbA6hVRFMHjvr2ay3SUepXgBAYbW6H8Uqnva_4F8yu1BKVMvRR1vLQyYy4ppAH1Ma6j-HVKg00vJXwifgkH_e5mYespDAXNnJpJBMto9kjWECDhYsrekHtHgiYWZSDJShNy7OSL6v5lZfyGNmnZb/s1280/20220828_153006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLUk7Lv8PhBQAqgmZ8pTEh0xob6VveY3BUGcTYDbA6hVRFMHjvr2ay3SUepXgBAYbW6H8Uqnva_4F8yu1BKVMvRR1vLQyYy4ppAH1Ma6j-HVKg00vJXwifgkH_e5mYespDAXNnJpJBMto9kjWECDhYsrekHtHgiYWZSDJShNy7OSL6v5lZfyGNmnZb/s320/20220828_153006.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nel giro di poco siamo a Matucana, meta di oggi. Lima è a meno di 100km, in discesa: la tappa di domani. L'ultima.</div><div>Prendiamo alloggio in un alberghetto accogliente e pulito, gestito da una signora che è stata in Italia e snocciola i nomi di tutte le città che ha visitato.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33qb3_pJRQADnwkZZtRqKOj_qGritWK_uQ9RJiSq0tbWLObHFyHCiPjgR2WD5Ei5IYAz3k6qGufgYJuJ6cMJGzXl4WLVu018NT0IG0QY0lDY_5LTMIVIyVjoor1Ver6iLecw-4vu8FfuO8qo5n8d9Pywdy4LlZxSdnZm_GyFzwkdLgQi8Yt7WdeFD/s1280/20220828_160649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33qb3_pJRQADnwkZZtRqKOj_qGritWK_uQ9RJiSq0tbWLObHFyHCiPjgR2WD5Ei5IYAz3k6qGufgYJuJ6cMJGzXl4WLVu018NT0IG0QY0lDY_5LTMIVIyVjoor1Ver6iLecw-4vu8FfuO8qo5n8d9Pywdy4LlZxSdnZm_GyFzwkdLgQi8Yt7WdeFD/s320/20220828_160649.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanGYV-uSbYf2MgjAspeYyTVlhGNVIFkS9rm5v1f40kwHr1zbTZb9mNZLYaTsf0CQCoxDYCZNfROlWbJ8zyvCEnVJfbCnhvbhqMLV7bZC73qfYk6OYD2yQo83OHSUfX9UJnTAb-xDjVg4Ir7DKKkuZFEWVwgdEq36EwMJcdJxZzPNzoM9ThEScEhu2/s1280/20220828_160703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanGYV-uSbYf2MgjAspeYyTVlhGNVIFkS9rm5v1f40kwHr1zbTZb9mNZLYaTsf0CQCoxDYCZNfROlWbJ8zyvCEnVJfbCnhvbhqMLV7bZC73qfYk6OYD2yQo83OHSUfX9UJnTAb-xDjVg4Ir7DKKkuZFEWVwgdEq36EwMJcdJxZzPNzoM9ThEScEhu2/s320/20220828_160703.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gFVXKBJT_vUPAWgvdTPtQDv3icLqCAo_0v__pr44WUrLUZOH-yrgcFPaTYGPiMukB7ndt-xYUABrlMQkBqkwwQS6UZkuMo50rGum7HLhccYbTHOCr_LkK1h03AO9ghmpBei9Mh1Lr63-zcpXAz00TWKzSTGaZx4xSPLi5yELxK-MjMjJQOVC3aey/s1280/20220828_161224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gFVXKBJT_vUPAWgvdTPtQDv3icLqCAo_0v__pr44WUrLUZOH-yrgcFPaTYGPiMukB7ndt-xYUABrlMQkBqkwwQS6UZkuMo50rGum7HLhccYbTHOCr_LkK1h03AO9ghmpBei9Mh1Lr63-zcpXAz00TWKzSTGaZx4xSPLi5yELxK-MjMjJQOVC3aey/s320/20220828_161224.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Siamo scesi a 2400m e le temperature sono già ben più miti. Doccia calda (habemus!), riposo, cena e ora, nella speranza che il nuovo antibiotico funzioni, si avvicina l'ultima notte di viaggio vero e proprio. Domani, nel pomeriggio, saremo a Lima, all'hotel dove tutto è iniziato. Ci hanno tenuto gli scatoloni per imballare bici e borse, quindi tutto è pronto per... Ripartire! Non ci si ferma mai. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">"Settembre è il mese del ripensamento sugli anni e sull'età<br />Dopo l'estate porta il dono usato della perplessità, della perplessità<br />Ti siedi e pensi e ricominci il gioco della tua identità<br />Come scintille brucian nel tuo fuoco le possibilità, le possibilità"</span></i><div><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">(Guccini, La canzone dei dodici mesi)</span></i></div>Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4596520892803788504.post-28654224613683411332022-08-26T05:24:00.001+02:002022-08-26T05:24:52.241+02:0046-48. Crisi. Da krisis, scelta. Di proseguire. Risalendo il Perenè lasciamo la Selva amazzonica. Si torna sulla Cordillera. Tarma: la città che celebra il dittatore<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtQMsKarjTasL-2Pk02BBWgv3PwexCvkOPXkcZHbqH2ziAVf9WRtRFlLf8r1aSwc6wd3_ColXfRwVBO4eDtZPXCHZjHKaUdFmuY3jzCJnjjpnDPgAEPzzxhNFhauHjz7Q9vXVghqrCs8YFJ9CFH5E3r8qgZN2enY82k_SskZPr4oJ4p4C25ainNu3U/s1280/20220823_095701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtQMsKarjTasL-2Pk02BBWgv3PwexCvkOPXkcZHbqH2ziAVf9WRtRFlLf8r1aSwc6wd3_ColXfRwVBO4eDtZPXCHZjHKaUdFmuY3jzCJnjjpnDPgAEPzzxhNFhauHjz7Q9vXVghqrCs8YFJ9CFH5E3r8qgZN2enY82k_SskZPr4oJ4p4C25ainNu3U/w640-h480/20220823_095701.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1iQCZkuxOnVAoO-JvPf496KRzg0BjTgtBK5L5iwmky6-0EBsEj4xrIweNEqBj95SOwiJSELRVlR8juI_sZ9gl64hwmK1s6WDeGHzDFWkH70Ltf-_Nr9Gs9JMtKEikEi5-ohmVAV_MCaYiyVU0L8L8BO07r0YFF9rhqEndN40a3bYZulRVrE5joSek/s1280/20220823_111749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1iQCZkuxOnVAoO-JvPf496KRzg0BjTgtBK5L5iwmky6-0EBsEj4xrIweNEqBj95SOwiJSELRVlR8juI_sZ9gl64hwmK1s6WDeGHzDFWkH70Ltf-_Nr9Gs9JMtKEikEi5-ohmVAV_MCaYiyVU0L8L8BO07r0YFF9rhqEndN40a3bYZulRVrE5joSek/w640-h480/20220823_111749.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lf4Qu8pR9mME-rODdcjkvUWhGK8tB7XHbXuZepRe1rEtAFMdF6IlhkeIdhrxmMNTfgmErIxV7tDeNRuFRQby4BlniAHy3tdqQPrhW0zhWe5f6OtFl7nt06AtfKLirOjyTN2lk0124omk3asyTAvs1Qu_npGG1kQptzDAHQUsk-OkxVA_sdJnMsXq/s1280/20220823_121447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lf4Qu8pR9mME-rODdcjkvUWhGK8tB7XHbXuZepRe1rEtAFMdF6IlhkeIdhrxmMNTfgmErIxV7tDeNRuFRQby4BlniAHy3tdqQPrhW0zhWe5f6OtFl7nt06AtfKLirOjyTN2lk0124omk3asyTAvs1Qu_npGG1kQptzDAHQUsk-OkxVA_sdJnMsXq/w640-h480/20220823_121447.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ZnUCFWNn36_s7nCf97Voe4CSAp94W0oqD_w0av5hZZxfWEPqVYt-eGjCsXjtYdPXMVM38OgIQYkCIh2Cps6VQNTVl3IuIASJuGqG7ESKEbXDzFZcbufZq_-AxquWNYaaYkj--xe9xn3qh9EP2J4uGVtPKlBBcnjMs111MkSFIaUc1pUpIQPvi9TB/w640-h480/20220824_103928.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh927raIT8KrSt5PuiO2lSOSuwMJCO0YnTXbJ_JjZxnpIfyrl8FhaUbmF7PUMSKGoN1h3JRt5_J_uyRkKth3WsjmZYiLtGdLER5qTScIwJ0JnETuYYRbTU_ykxLYnWE8z30Toi7dKDB0-cFkwMZ3cXVyeYm-doFGuyYBSypOG4AP-PPvk65OyD0mgqe/s1280/20220824_134106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh927raIT8KrSt5PuiO2lSOSuwMJCO0YnTXbJ_JjZxnpIfyrl8FhaUbmF7PUMSKGoN1h3JRt5_J_uyRkKth3WsjmZYiLtGdLER5qTScIwJ0JnETuYYRbTU_ykxLYnWE8z30Toi7dKDB0-cFkwMZ3cXVyeYm-doFGuyYBSypOG4AP-PPvk65OyD0mgqe/w640-h480/20220824_134106.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMD5Bn3CjjHBX8HQ9OsRTxn8fnbo1pqwd_gG5OCZ3bOg5w-dFpblEm6ikyJdooKHQ_kRHdWUuGkbW_BaNOOq7HGavIvLLX9iXZkM6nyqA4Rki8zqt4fdbh_LvJp_zdtEld5COcRXQCFtFLTwXe9mWCA7i335Y5mQjPWmb-TUBPU9MMTb5Om5-iZZ3/s1280/20220824_151647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXMD5Bn3CjjHBX8HQ9OsRTxn8fnbo1pqwd_gG5OCZ3bOg5w-dFpblEm6ikyJdooKHQ_kRHdWUuGkbW_BaNOOq7HGavIvLLX9iXZkM6nyqA4Rki8zqt4fdbh_LvJp_zdtEld5COcRXQCFtFLTwXe9mWCA7i335Y5mQjPWmb-TUBPU9MMTb5Om5-iZZ3/w640-h480/20220824_151647.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Martedì, 23/8</div><div style="text-align: left;">Pichanaki-San Ramon</div><div style="text-align: left;">83km</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Oggi siamo stati performanti, animali agili e svelti, abituati alla selva. L'asfalto fa il resto. Ci svegliamo tutti storti, siamo ormai provati dal viaggio, dai batteri e dai malesseri, dalle medicine. Il farmaco antimalarico (Malarone) risulta come inghiottire tavolette di raid antiscarafaggi, ti dà tutti gli effetti collaterali possibili, dalla diarrea alla nausea alle vertigini. Il contrario di Raid, fa notare un acuto amico, è Diar. Come la metti la metti, non va. Mosquitos o muerte! Anzi. Mosquitos Y muerte! E' probabilmente il motto dei senderisti di oggidì.</div><div style="text-align: left;">La stortura è acuita dal fatto che in Perù in generale e in Amazonas in particolare la gente ha un problema con la musica e il volume. Viene ascoltata in strada, nelle camere d'albergo, nelle case, a cassa dritta fino alle 2, alle 3 di notte. Alle 5 si ricomincia. Per lo più è pop peruano tamarrissimo, canzoni d'amore e lamenti di fanciulle tradite, che cantano sempre un po' stonate e molto in falsetto, e sembrano alpaca feriti.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Inoltre, come ciliegina sulla torta, da ieri sera manca di nuovo l'acqua. Niente sciacquone e difficoltà a lavarsi (tutto con borracce e bottigliette, ma che uffa).</div><div style="text-align: left;">Nonostante tutto, però, come dicevo, siamo estremamente performanti.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Prima di partire ho dovuto anche sistemare il portapacchi anteriore, azzoppato dalla perdita misteriosa di una vite. Per fortuna ne ho alcune di scorta, sempre, con buona pace di chi si ostina a dire che anche viaggi così si possono fare in bikepacking light. Auguri!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Pedaliamo rapidi dopo aver salutato le signore dell'hospedaje, che ci chiedono dove stiamo andando e stanno lì a guardarci incuriosite, mentre montiamo le borse e partiamo. L'asfalto scivola dolce sotto alle ruote, e la bici corre senza attriti nè scossoni. Le giunture, metalliche e non, ringraziano. Mani e piedi pure: sono malconci di calli e vesciche a causa delle giornatine appena passate. Seguiamo la valle del Perenè, che è un affluente di sua maestà il Rio delle Amazzoni.</div><div style="text-align: left;">La vallata è un susseguirsi di colline verdissime, tra paesaggi che sono ancora selva, ma meno profonda, meno aggrovigliata. Il fiume segna il confine e sfuma terra e cielo, mentre i pappagalli si raccontano barzellette ridendo forte sui rami alti. Farfalle azzurre e rosse, grandi come la mia faccia, volano oblique tra le foglie.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Siamo ancora in territorio Ashaninka. Anzi, siamo ora nel territorio originariamente abitato, da secoli da questa etnia. Ma qui i nativi sono "civilizzati", o "corrotti", a seconda della prospettiva che si assume nell'interpretare il processo storico di assorbimento della cultura tradizionale in quella massiva dei coloni. Qui gli ashaninka vendono la loro identità ai turisti, offrono giornate di approfondimento degli usi e dei costumi, fanno fare foto con gli abiti tipici, il pitone al collo e il pappagallo in spalla. E' tutto piuttosto caricaturale e posticcio. E' ciò che i turisti chiedono. Da Lima a qui sono otto ore di bus, e tanti, peruviani urbani e gringos vengono alla ricerca dell'esotico, della foresta. Quella vera sta più in basso, da dove veniamo. Quella edulcorata sta qui. Dunque la valle è un susseguirsi di comunità native, ma chi ci vive è ben contento di vedere estranei, e cavarci qualche soldo. Le capanne sono volutamente addobbate in modo eccessivo, e tutto si basa sulla riproposizione continua e insista degli stereotipi. All'ingresso dei villaggi c'è una scultura con il copricapo piumato, ad esempio, e mai mancano statue di nativi seminudi che affrontano anaconde e giaguari.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXOMPgMiwJg6BfmJTKZlGRpYTTtXPhl_rM1SokY3bp9LXm6cgr4uGVODT48lTDVL10xjAhLuIfW1DoDcM6e9oeZrK5WyvYdVOb5jtYP4m9zM7onFz1vIpAY89Tcpt4172joHhA38bPZG1GJTwe8b_v1LTBUKX4qF1kjujhg3s9I9-1iELfG1vcVGml/s1280/20220823_095408.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXOMPgMiwJg6BfmJTKZlGRpYTTtXPhl_rM1SokY3bp9LXm6cgr4uGVODT48lTDVL10xjAhLuIfW1DoDcM6e9oeZrK5WyvYdVOb5jtYP4m9zM7onFz1vIpAY89Tcpt4172joHhA38bPZG1GJTwe8b_v1LTBUKX4qF1kjujhg3s9I9-1iELfG1vcVGml/s320/20220823_095408.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNyj3nFtOKeXRYuIxzxa57KDvgM4b8Jc_J1tJ-y9SVIIIdb_3Sx_jVCqnRJThP5JUzZiMnfH9nWzqw2x7gz8EgkGqD0peds6SoDxA-FWkgmscm_Rea1T7CyHpdqRbsXP6cxAWuMXZkiLgHi1q4BnQxxcdz9r-HvU9oawC4rAYD2DOrnZX4OstLoRnR/s1280/20220823_095411.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNyj3nFtOKeXRYuIxzxa57KDvgM4b8Jc_J1tJ-y9SVIIIdb_3Sx_jVCqnRJThP5JUzZiMnfH9nWzqw2x7gz8EgkGqD0peds6SoDxA-FWkgmscm_Rea1T7CyHpdqRbsXP6cxAWuMXZkiLgHi1q4BnQxxcdz9r-HvU9oawC4rAYD2DOrnZX4OstLoRnR/s320/20220823_095411.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7FnouOuKo-kVEe7rJ8KhhPP99AhXq5yqO4vz5Lt2g1yu1dKrjk8-O5vExE--OHwW5Cf_tuZSkfc9NWbtnZ4DTQEhlTcSVAYkoTmHAFYMhmSMVsVED47CHqTp1kl8gHwQF1T9zqAW1i9t-hIGErEkmVpmkoyviqe3aHLOsx5g0mjYCoaVac12Z8o2f/s1280/20220823_095415.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7FnouOuKo-kVEe7rJ8KhhPP99AhXq5yqO4vz5Lt2g1yu1dKrjk8-O5vExE--OHwW5Cf_tuZSkfc9NWbtnZ4DTQEhlTcSVAYkoTmHAFYMhmSMVsVED47CHqTp1kl8gHwQF1T9zqAW1i9t-hIGErEkmVpmkoyviqe3aHLOsx5g0mjYCoaVac12Z8o2f/s320/20220823_095415.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In ogni caso anche qui gli Ashaninka hanno vita difficile e la povertà dei pueblos è evidente. Galline spennacchiate, cani tutti costole, anziani crostosi e bimbi coperti di polvere stanno tutti insieme tra fango e frutta che fermenta. Nonostante l'abitudine ad approcciare stranieri e coloni, anche qui siamo guardati male e spesso ci vengono scagliati contro cani mordaci. Oggi è stata una croce, siamo stati inseguiti decine di volte, spesso fin quasi a essere feriti. C'è stata la prima colluttazione. Un meticcio delle dimensioni di pastore tedesco non mi mollava, continuando a tentare di mordermi una gamba. Si è preso due pedate sul muso, mentre continuavo a pedalare, con la scarpa da bici con tacca in metallo. Mi dispiace sempre usar violenza e non lo faccio mai, ma in questo caso si è trattato di necessaria autodifesa. Quando i proprietari si degnano di guardare cosa stia succedendo, si fanno delle gran risate, o semplicemente assistono facendo il tifo per i loro cuccioletti educati a bastonate.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfo25xKWPLaI8UfFs4Y06wDCM2tOKi2WNnqDPNByMD8u2KqGT7m1gWmwPc4tgTOmxZpc5jEcDo3Vn7Vb4Jj6fk3297ePJe_0P98mEErLwIqkZELkJgtbvBYVv89U66G5X-xMH21a5yFBWfmDBD1tzzxHqI3Jb-Qm8Y6fW9YY1A8MMph9HWPo1iIsLz/s1280/20220823_095436.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfo25xKWPLaI8UfFs4Y06wDCM2tOKi2WNnqDPNByMD8u2KqGT7m1gWmwPc4tgTOmxZpc5jEcDo3Vn7Vb4Jj6fk3297ePJe_0P98mEErLwIqkZELkJgtbvBYVv89U66G5X-xMH21a5yFBWfmDBD1tzzxHqI3Jb-Qm8Y6fW9YY1A8MMph9HWPo1iIsLz/s320/20220823_095436.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70j3ePfXdsR3ag_ckbwil3eVVTa8O1F21sFF2hBZCQfNtp8qKxMr7DtYAQ5asNmBXPh1Qk57IyGwRLBWtr_fpIqfS1-sTOsfsZXa8jFZzAJ5Vr4zUsozCt57kUsDgkKe2RCF51m_dzYMwlaLEUmn1ME1aftN4QmiITVtyjKhkgA3rLuTQihxzPDbL/s1280/20220823_095701.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70j3ePfXdsR3ag_ckbwil3eVVTa8O1F21sFF2hBZCQfNtp8qKxMr7DtYAQ5asNmBXPh1Qk57IyGwRLBWtr_fpIqfS1-sTOsfsZXa8jFZzAJ5Vr4zUsozCt57kUsDgkKe2RCF51m_dzYMwlaLEUmn1ME1aftN4QmiITVtyjKhkgA3rLuTQihxzPDbL/s320/20220823_095701.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLKcIvbzH4mcoF8lAHF943FLHZUEkHaM6VLhwU1kJwpq5TJXaN4qp_lkaUUEnOOuwiTvupRrKjpqBcQ0fv1ZZNfWiPy-wdvhH7RDgCna_mOqJ5mFm4d4ECqv_XTLA1Sr0l5vNLy8bKjrJFV0xjj85UQmT-jQaax3kuaeagRCvp6lHr5DiREyutH_N/s1280/20220823_095704.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZLKcIvbzH4mcoF8lAHF943FLHZUEkHaM6VLhwU1kJwpq5TJXaN4qp_lkaUUEnOOuwiTvupRrKjpqBcQ0fv1ZZNfWiPy-wdvhH7RDgCna_mOqJ5mFm4d4ECqv_XTLA1Sr0l5vNLy8bKjrJFV0xjj85UQmT-jQaax3kuaeagRCvp6lHr5DiREyutH_N/s320/20220823_095704.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8QYtxvBUggV25CIdqZIiZy8LjhP5BJZgisDQPPp4GASEGm58pxr9Bn5DyLH_cZucJvE7EjLM9QFMCiua9tNz3j6OhA1BkwNhAK7JooV8MGaJKJ16DpdNWr8UgGHqVGoH6A7fpDmT72hMZduFAu6WLnNHcKcKfKhP0hXSol7RqbG3eMKRy5ZCRY4i/s1280/20220823_095706.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8QYtxvBUggV25CIdqZIiZy8LjhP5BJZgisDQPPp4GASEGm58pxr9Bn5DyLH_cZucJvE7EjLM9QFMCiua9tNz3j6OhA1BkwNhAK7JooV8MGaJKJ16DpdNWr8UgGHqVGoH6A7fpDmT72hMZduFAu6WLnNHcKcKfKhP0hXSol7RqbG3eMKRy5ZCRY4i/s320/20220823_095706.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per fortuna l'umore resta alto. Sto ancora ridendo perchè vediamo un opossum stecchito (io ne ho già visti un paio da quando siamo nella selva, Gigi se li è persi; sono giorni che cerco di ricordare il nome di questi animalini e solo oggi è riemerso a coscienza). Gigi mi fa, seriamente sconvolto: oh, va' che topo morto!</div><div>E dall'espressione e dal tono capisco che crede veramente si tratti di un ratto. La cosa mi fa ridere per le successive dieci ore. Il topo!</div><div><br /></div><div>Passiamo Kivinaki, Yurinaki con le sue cascate e i monumenti agli agrumi, qui prodotti in quantità. Vedo per la prima volta di persona -e non in un documentario- un raccoglitore di cocchi, issato sulla cima di una palma con un sistema di corde.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZ9BeGdm2aK7WaWUc5ics4qZmmMWr3j4dfN6uD3VIkmkA75f6jC_feW_XnHolWVFGb0rc_TKBkGPIuY2hAgSFmD_tpr8oxGXkbGNPK9u9kK3CXAwxcKMhPXuj-lR97NWxEUFCWCTQT13anDRpyOChFVY68ZAGsAVl_9sxjQI8CpmT23BGwHg1yx6y/s1280/20220823_100831.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZ9BeGdm2aK7WaWUc5ics4qZmmMWr3j4dfN6uD3VIkmkA75f6jC_feW_XnHolWVFGb0rc_TKBkGPIuY2hAgSFmD_tpr8oxGXkbGNPK9u9kK3CXAwxcKMhPXuj-lR97NWxEUFCWCTQT13anDRpyOChFVY68ZAGsAVl_9sxjQI8CpmT23BGwHg1yx6y/s320/20220823_100831.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxarzlPBxWUDaxeF0wr5tXP_d6dw2s9mVi-KQvwP366MSIMQEqUC4RBc_X_XK2c4X9erAws79nFRGcSomYwhYNVoOae7xVBZ23Kqbcjtf1RXcjTWXKpj_M8obPVxn2GOI6LSwbSSO85Y3bxPvUhaSPCHZHBUXjR-C04IoeZ7Fnnek9v2uWGKdIX2Al/s1280/20220823_100851.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxarzlPBxWUDaxeF0wr5tXP_d6dw2s9mVi-KQvwP366MSIMQEqUC4RBc_X_XK2c4X9erAws79nFRGcSomYwhYNVoOae7xVBZ23Kqbcjtf1RXcjTWXKpj_M8obPVxn2GOI6LSwbSSO85Y3bxPvUhaSPCHZHBUXjR-C04IoeZ7Fnnek9v2uWGKdIX2Al/s320/20220823_100851.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_rtN7TTSJQtzfrV26MM_n016O4R6swiYdHr6o6G9OhF8qaDFT74qo39jMTqCxoc7zJE9n2L-y0I2EqvN7_d5PFNeZkBUVVl1gEHlshQSkFe6XJyTmqzfNy5n5YCO5vMKJf5cFNOcZ0HnGN54nXBtZvVsOyQqHriDWbOZZ3WHWUXLjxiNK68_C1i3x/s1280/20220823_100909.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_rtN7TTSJQtzfrV26MM_n016O4R6swiYdHr6o6G9OhF8qaDFT74qo39jMTqCxoc7zJE9n2L-y0I2EqvN7_d5PFNeZkBUVVl1gEHlshQSkFe6XJyTmqzfNy5n5YCO5vMKJf5cFNOcZ0HnGN54nXBtZvVsOyQqHriDWbOZZ3WHWUXLjxiNK68_C1i3x/s320/20220823_100909.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ56-TAxFZR-gdVWggYDXpqfm1BVEm2t9dYfG1QWnrjCVFQbmCFMEP6M2NHV2K1E2uyaYKt8HY9BEVYmqZP8n0rqxTn7Pze4i3KaSkudnynHvMQwqFKfhY-U5x7inj9bPxNuBNdVPPTtTZY6Mhtq2HnNLHLGIHdqmzkIBILAH_vqCsPRNMvuUMksZy/s1280/20220823_101951.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ56-TAxFZR-gdVWggYDXpqfm1BVEm2t9dYfG1QWnrjCVFQbmCFMEP6M2NHV2K1E2uyaYKt8HY9BEVYmqZP8n0rqxTn7Pze4i3KaSkudnynHvMQwqFKfhY-U5x7inj9bPxNuBNdVPPTtTZY6Mhtq2HnNLHLGIHdqmzkIBILAH_vqCsPRNMvuUMksZy/s320/20220823_101951.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Il fiume disegna curve morbide e le colline che affacciano alla valle paiono assopite nella pace che regna tra foresta e spiagge. E' un susseguirsi di villaggi e ristorantini turistici che offrono la comida tipica della selva. Il juane, cioè una coscia di pollo arrosto con intorno riso pressato, il tutto chiuso in una foglia di mais o banano tipo arancino non fritto; il tacacho, che è un mix di platano, salsiccia e carne di maiale secca; la patarashca, carni miste e pesce cotti su pietre roventi; zucca, manioca, acqua di cocco e frutta.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDESDhRGkzFwRGIh0FTjJebGRboAvyQkpM4vX61wH0mr6HKIM3GntJ0qRRGwknL7eNYO58Uw1cFonihkzSfNF-ln6ZrUv04HzzT52GjBBtGaJFTEbIPLAZOJwpKEnnrFGkkjgR0_ebXsHz8PrrmP-fjIsG9sfDBZx2ZqRWSnltqcmAVfOHl1Seim5E/s1280/20220823_103009.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDESDhRGkzFwRGIh0FTjJebGRboAvyQkpM4vX61wH0mr6HKIM3GntJ0qRRGwknL7eNYO58Uw1cFonihkzSfNF-ln6ZrUv04HzzT52GjBBtGaJFTEbIPLAZOJwpKEnnrFGkkjgR0_ebXsHz8PrrmP-fjIsG9sfDBZx2ZqRWSnltqcmAVfOHl1Seim5E/s320/20220823_103009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G3tTgFFlCcJj_BbdbUiv0hm5rVfuUZtYaRte1oZ4GpT3wSpkSuvBeYmxwrWjbbHKmLfRXPAbKlIwxep9DqK58TV1f2Rn9_OMujKLO_tCppw3XJpw3B2MiX7jz6nBeF_R-xYqXWbLn3TvQvBwJm5pXe0gBb10sgJIrxyiGR5CPDaodx23kNQgiSqs/s320/20220823_111512.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzeFFWLUvsV3Yap4vzgnV0quGtOt_mE1e-U4s76JvH4UxeysW2UkXOidOrPgPKMH8t5VAypr-P2V1fK6l-U9Z6jZWZAJFxY6QA30fGpPfp0mTfiwZLrYBxfQ--AYxvMp27HYpUW7NpgDinHo0yM_229iD7wBvEvzkjdS-Mu3-pbt1u9IScPkzczl5/s1280/20220823_111746.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzeFFWLUvsV3Yap4vzgnV0quGtOt_mE1e-U4s76JvH4UxeysW2UkXOidOrPgPKMH8t5VAypr-P2V1fK6l-U9Z6jZWZAJFxY6QA30fGpPfp0mTfiwZLrYBxfQ--AYxvMp27HYpUW7NpgDinHo0yM_229iD7wBvEvzkjdS-Mu3-pbt1u9IScPkzczl5/s320/20220823_111746.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXqbtrB3lDzI8AtIvhbbJ3IyRzlljww7nF7ihiAsfvrxJXkqdtOBe80CRGzlK-W3bENgUenX-rmnSDNL3FRvFDveNiKKsjxAQuWX2AbmalgHkFmItSKYUMEOuFeIOCzIhZFDEgp7aSH1j2JFfPrrZhU4tFW_sF3I3Yg8ZcKwULKYzXN6m21y4x7Xz/s320/20220823_111807.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxsTgYkYlCwDrNlFnNJE7ClJIg6sd1Pm28LHDN9dAPKfk6JXfA7QsO8BvrxHgMb4ZLYEf6PNAc9prPmECSEh8T_SWMzP6FoRjzDQzbMBROqt1wFsDbshEfL7UsVD1MY9FWv_ykZFBs8dBrvnXJ51Ac9Dy6Yma228dTdjhXCpW3vYBlG3IDGZ5OWo9H/s1280/20220823_111815.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxsTgYkYlCwDrNlFnNJE7ClJIg6sd1Pm28LHDN9dAPKfk6JXfA7QsO8BvrxHgMb4ZLYEf6PNAc9prPmECSEh8T_SWMzP6FoRjzDQzbMBROqt1wFsDbshEfL7UsVD1MY9FWv_ykZFBs8dBrvnXJ51Ac9Dy6Yma228dTdjhXCpW3vYBlG3IDGZ5OWo9H/s320/20220823_111815.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Purtroppo ad ogni capanna e baracca l'adrenalina va alle stelle perchè sappiamo che nel giro di attimi avremo cani alle calcagna. Uno? Cinque? Vecchi e zoppi o giovani e veloci? Lo si scopre di volta in volta, e a proprie spese. I giorni scorsi i tettucci di paglia tra le foglie di banano davano ansia nel timore di essere matati per vendicare le ingiustizie subite nei secoli dal popolo nativo. Ora per i perri. Porterò a casa una sindrome post traumatica da capanne, roba che quando ne vedrò una, che so, un gazebo in spiaggia in Liguria, partirò di testa, urlando e fuggendo <i>come se ne andasse della vita stessa</i>. "Come se".</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DnAx6hoTwylvSRch6sBYBXXOAZpTVK9slIPnCUxNtf4iOuL8WKp9kAGr6f3HCy4nyuZps85EjZt7-Nef8cnSNU5dvCrXH8Nx_OF-usDrnxcdeSjsfuMJV7NIL6nPBQ8Ws6dX2Eomj2iuNKntl2MEULRroZ1tfB6K35MgEsLcxnQAJiLjQZeJc4XX/s1280/20220823_113612.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_DnAx6hoTwylvSRch6sBYBXXOAZpTVK9slIPnCUxNtf4iOuL8WKp9kAGr6f3HCy4nyuZps85EjZt7-Nef8cnSNU5dvCrXH8Nx_OF-usDrnxcdeSjsfuMJV7NIL6nPBQ8Ws6dX2Eomj2iuNKntl2MEULRroZ1tfB6K35MgEsLcxnQAJiLjQZeJc4XX/s320/20220823_113612.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAqmlvsQgy9khOuA5nahj35u--5xuYcErpU6OU7FTUpQv6Pux7y3Re3UlbPXxlP7wfa2TtRhzlDvd-wrrY4bV9Y-JgrS-4CXhyjfip8OuZWoL1VgwfIA6IUOXLj4drUU6LbQqI7Afau3okkuwiMbUeuFphkBTbrxBpAfXL6sI3zkkz3_k2v5lRcY9/s1280/20220823_113614.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCAqmlvsQgy9khOuA5nahj35u--5xuYcErpU6OU7FTUpQv6Pux7y3Re3UlbPXxlP7wfa2TtRhzlDvd-wrrY4bV9Y-JgrS-4CXhyjfip8OuZWoL1VgwfIA6IUOXLj4drUU6LbQqI7Afau3okkuwiMbUeuFphkBTbrxBpAfXL6sI3zkkz3_k2v5lRcY9/s320/20220823_113614.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La natura sempre consola, quando non ammazza, e così è per le belle cascate che adornano la roccia, e son fiumi in veritcale che si gettano a valle, per confondersi al Perenè. Questa è la Boca de tigre, che si dirama in dieci cataratte. Un pianto antico.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdAbBs7Zy2nSE8T-S25_uDdr9EtJR_81ljJ0OX_V7wdwTxbCPwhLlUO1b4iPNHtt2FNjWqCstN6mql-Gzz2_LGi8OKJyC7sknpopZxedJlb5_ivb3TjNJUAo8tnsr5z6F-TAkMBH8hf6mFZQJI3EPZUSdt4IDnT9LiMCq3DOBNTSfSYtsU4sCPzHU/s1280/20220823_113709.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdAbBs7Zy2nSE8T-S25_uDdr9EtJR_81ljJ0OX_V7wdwTxbCPwhLlUO1b4iPNHtt2FNjWqCstN6mql-Gzz2_LGi8OKJyC7sknpopZxedJlb5_ivb3TjNJUAo8tnsr5z6F-TAkMBH8hf6mFZQJI3EPZUSdt4IDnT9LiMCq3DOBNTSfSYtsU4sCPzHU/s320/20220823_113709.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yfHO_IAXLEd5EBpwZfyxyqIBjtWkRgXa3OKtOs2UVVF7th9aOCR4db60reyvUuRQIadxclClM6UZsxlyH-550P4eABj-aOgOIRJU2eCgrXMY-7WfvMFmuV02_2IQF9Vj4dOSyGTo1v6YbTb5W_5SXUh5RkP_q87J1Y2tAueBYARHnkMBILRmk7aW/s1280/20220823_113719.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yfHO_IAXLEd5EBpwZfyxyqIBjtWkRgXa3OKtOs2UVVF7th9aOCR4db60reyvUuRQIadxclClM6UZsxlyH-550P4eABj-aOgOIRJU2eCgrXMY-7WfvMFmuV02_2IQF9Vj4dOSyGTo1v6YbTb5W_5SXUh5RkP_q87J1Y2tAueBYARHnkMBILRmk7aW/s320/20220823_113719.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwzZQ3sQPoY83aI1c_hJRyAEsry84sOUl0TFFdM3Z-RNrMpvD-V_FypqwR361BjqMdghufsG3b6uIbo0YrdHGZLqD-EAdZSjWLdbO1gAL53FbcXQmhgxkZzbowarIdP5PKbJNNX9gF-oRpEKoImpfcHaznYlvgSRVA7pjSdR6JXbsLFXRUxRB3RT7X/s1280/20220823_113731.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwzZQ3sQPoY83aI1c_hJRyAEsry84sOUl0TFFdM3Z-RNrMpvD-V_FypqwR361BjqMdghufsG3b6uIbo0YrdHGZLqD-EAdZSjWLdbO1gAL53FbcXQmhgxkZzbowarIdP5PKbJNNX9gF-oRpEKoImpfcHaznYlvgSRVA7pjSdR6JXbsLFXRUxRB3RT7X/s320/20220823_113731.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Mr221zRVkVSufpKf-27mfqSlANBB-hbBZhzLBRhC6QmOM0ufvTvIoYqKUIFkNp1N_nn6UrRWJ5ZouIkJFlRQikssiRgaCttRy7FBRerxLK6_5b2PtKhEN_fxO_yHJOfW4mf-J-LfDX8IU4T4hAReLLAifUYt_wpYNk8GGBT78Ne6aOeN2HTfaLQA/s1280/20220823_120429.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Mr221zRVkVSufpKf-27mfqSlANBB-hbBZhzLBRhC6QmOM0ufvTvIoYqKUIFkNp1N_nn6UrRWJ5ZouIkJFlRQikssiRgaCttRy7FBRerxLK6_5b2PtKhEN_fxO_yHJOfW4mf-J-LfDX8IU4T4hAReLLAifUYt_wpYNk8GGBT78Ne6aOeN2HTfaLQA/s320/20220823_120429.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkPiBG6PjFdhPnAJkfjtPeTbb_rSvJ83LAV1dt1rJYcwZ5k-3uFYhsZjVPWX7unItzuFTQWD2fwe2m-eySIV0S3kDWL7Bnx1Xt-unMxxd54dIbO6K7PZvWMc7cTxbA3vdn113RYrZ0EyBnhbDI2soi3F7mDGtry1nM6gyp_HxvNp4Xl_J6x49no4ap/s1280/20220823_120434.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkPiBG6PjFdhPnAJkfjtPeTbb_rSvJ83LAV1dt1rJYcwZ5k-3uFYhsZjVPWX7unItzuFTQWD2fwe2m-eySIV0S3kDWL7Bnx1Xt-unMxxd54dIbO6K7PZvWMc7cTxbA3vdn113RYrZ0EyBnhbDI2soi3F7mDGtry1nM6gyp_HxvNp4Xl_J6x49no4ap/s320/20220823_120434.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passiamo Puerto Victoria e Marankiari,, con i venditori di cocchi appena colti, di cui si beve solo l'acqua, e i perri mali e viola (sarà un antiparassitario o una moda nativa? O il Malarone che dà allucinazioni?)</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6VY1Q6bjs4_aUXiibRgP5DjBhyAaVmo8pO_2lcn9EszjIWjGgLVWDUIKiQL8OFPc8tqzRzaKhY_-rC70WvclnSodVT-V4OzX36yKAmwP9O2UTfkjZOyc_QZc3ESj7Lc_uz8K7BAVetcxcEqz6GMWOWY63rLDvHu0ODqmagK0u_TuTWcTzF7o-yTh9/s1280/20220823_121443.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6VY1Q6bjs4_aUXiibRgP5DjBhyAaVmo8pO_2lcn9EszjIWjGgLVWDUIKiQL8OFPc8tqzRzaKhY_-rC70WvclnSodVT-V4OzX36yKAmwP9O2UTfkjZOyc_QZc3ESj7Lc_uz8K7BAVetcxcEqz6GMWOWY63rLDvHu0ODqmagK0u_TuTWcTzF7o-yTh9/s320/20220823_121443.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkDaf7QbzwPvZW-_xSzF2e4yMYsc3mI3r_kNx4RDohEG6D-dQHE0JarrPAgX_ILsXDJuAZRq8G84Lm5G-C3Od3lxFBIakzfLOfqGyLrKTLjwb-OCRM6x4FeOf_DKktyXZPnbgQGyrcSddxyiV7fRBEM7SUAX6qirY2rJ1F2aU6_k4vrDnvMIKhD6W/s1280/20220823_121447.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkDaf7QbzwPvZW-_xSzF2e4yMYsc3mI3r_kNx4RDohEG6D-dQHE0JarrPAgX_ILsXDJuAZRq8G84Lm5G-C3Od3lxFBIakzfLOfqGyLrKTLjwb-OCRM6x4FeOf_DKktyXZPnbgQGyrcSddxyiV7fRBEM7SUAX6qirY2rJ1F2aU6_k4vrDnvMIKhD6W/s320/20220823_121447.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTboWn08vTKsIRM8dW_TD9HVvUYopj674ELhMEXq0p9wtDrW3sudrMdMQ9KZQd37ec4ZJmc-yc_kME5-SFMnpo-iJ1XkxsgTGEpjRl8yiAyNGy1E9kJaNQL90QQRR708eFA_gJdLSTGjqH1gqHn_mTO7GKzRU8nUJFg2x3WpVdp2_0f91a05KkceKw/s1280/20220823_121550.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTboWn08vTKsIRM8dW_TD9HVvUYopj674ELhMEXq0p9wtDrW3sudrMdMQ9KZQd37ec4ZJmc-yc_kME5-SFMnpo-iJ1XkxsgTGEpjRl8yiAyNGy1E9kJaNQL90QQRR708eFA_gJdLSTGjqH1gqHn_mTO7GKzRU8nUJFg2x3WpVdp2_0f91a05KkceKw/s320/20220823_121550.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Arriviamo poi alla caotica Perenè, che è la città principale della valle nonchè una sorta di capitale storica degli Ashaninka. Qui da secoli questo popolo vive o cerca di farlo. Con le popolazioni andine preincaiche e con gli incas intrattenevano rapporti commerciali pacifici di scambio di prodotti. Dal 1641 i missionari francescani cercarono di evangelizzare i nativi, muovendosi lungo il fiume. I più furono ammazzati, pochi fortunati lasciati scappare vivi. Nel 1742 scoppiò la rivolta di Juan Santos Atahualpa, che si concluse con ulteriori francescani morti e grandi violenze da parte degli Ashaninka e soprattutto, in risposta, da parte dei coloni. Poi questa strenua resistenza fu piegata e i nativi si convertirono alla croce e furono costretti a cedere terre agli europei e ai peruviani venuti dalla costa e dalle città. Nel 1891 il governo cedette 500.000 ettari di terra alla Cooper corporation, che però non la mise a frutto. Negli anni '50 e '60 gruppi organizzati di agricoltori provenienti dalla Sera centrale presero possesso di fatto (e poi, a cose concluse, di diritto) di quei campi, sottraendoli ai nativi. Nella città vivono oggi per lo più coloni. Infatti loro ci rivolgono parola, ci salutano e chiacchierano, chiedendo dove andiamo, che viaggio sia il nostro. E tutti stupiscono, perchè sanno le strade, come siano, quanto dure. Ma non fate fatica? E' la domanda principale. Sì, eccome. Ma ne vale la pena sempre. Ora, ieri, domani. Questa è vita. Costi quel che costi. Solo così si impara, si cresce. Si diventa migliori. Si può lasciare qualcosa di buono agli altri, che sian parole o distillati minimi di qualcosa che si è capito, dopo tanto peregrinare. Può darsi che io abbia trascinato una bicicletta che pesa quanto me attraverso le Ande e l'Amazzonia anche solo per vivere questo istante fugace, questo scambio breve con una sconosciuta che mi sorride e fa salutare il suo bambino dagli occhi enormi. Ce lo dice Dante per bocca di Ulisse che arde in eterno, di fiamma e sete di conoscenza: fatti non foste... E così siamo nati per andare, e muoverci, con la testa, il cuore, le gambe. Ognuno ha il suo modo, la sua via. I miei sono questi qui.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRa8EZkgmqdIRVDyOo8aXp9222Kk13eHq5poOSdl5WDwfFl2cpEI8jhQvJTrMXY5Q6KA4nYWTb5DLTxnrUL7544UAPYjNP4NmonsQDrTnjvTCSq7HqTQ6XRyTS6W3JEjuX22YbKzpNiSbNWUcs3aGhejvIF8M5nroRmrJyimBdpFpyAf9JWtuD5RHb/s1280/20220823_122436.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRa8EZkgmqdIRVDyOo8aXp9222Kk13eHq5poOSdl5WDwfFl2cpEI8jhQvJTrMXY5Q6KA4nYWTb5DLTxnrUL7544UAPYjNP4NmonsQDrTnjvTCSq7HqTQ6XRyTS6W3JEjuX22YbKzpNiSbNWUcs3aGhejvIF8M5nroRmrJyimBdpFpyAf9JWtuD5RHb/s320/20220823_122436.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Facciamo una sosta. Sono le 13, abbiamo già percorso 50km. Numeri impensabili nei giorni scorsi. Decidiamo di tirare fino a San Ramon, sono altri 30km con una piccola salita in mezzo. L'afa e la calura si fanno sentire, per quanto ci saranno al massimo 25 gradi. Riprendere dopo la pausa è complicato. Quando si mangia, l'intestino si ribella. Le gambe diventano molli, la testa leggera. Ma dopo poco si torna concentrati come il Coccolino e via, bruciamo la collina e la comunità nativa di Pampa Michi, dove assaltano i turisti con bigiotteria, abiti tradizionali per far le foto vestiti da garibaldini amazzonici e boa mezzi morti, sempre ad uso selfie. Tiriamo dritti, meglio allora gli ashaninka che con frecce al curaro centrano un gringo nascosti tra le liane.</div><div>Unica cosa interessante è il centro di conservazione dei macheteros, nome amichevole per i pacarana, grassi roditori della selva. Oltre a loro qui vengono curati diversi animali, pappagalli, scimmie e serpenti compresi</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEtr_1JUEA1AO0daljoHrQba3lD4kqkcqSoJp7FftvqtG7fGOFJq9jK3NYWDw_79h89jwBkm1njBuWE3CiqXCwbfQ-qBhxEpCxL1orvfU8No893DGC6mSenfAMQfldXEPFKaQeUxO-E5omlKU7-tWjn1ZQUPdgf6rNlGJWSE9D6UDaPhOV4TOaNeCx/s1280/20220823_140110.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEtr_1JUEA1AO0daljoHrQba3lD4kqkcqSoJp7FftvqtG7fGOFJq9jK3NYWDw_79h89jwBkm1njBuWE3CiqXCwbfQ-qBhxEpCxL1orvfU8No893DGC6mSenfAMQfldXEPFKaQeUxO-E5omlKU7-tWjn1ZQUPdgf6rNlGJWSE9D6UDaPhOV4TOaNeCx/s320/20220823_140110.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmkl8gZF_g9vbl7glOBgDfu1jnk7kTCuD5a6_sZVvsMK9rIMfWKdse-WFEkbSEZM5nZQi9WZBUbsY3L-a4QJhSREs2kKj1CJWzXqJ2fMbAiJ6fm7j3iHybq2eJdUN0AeaT_Q9tsYAngKHnhScR2cAXQNRT60Ve_uQGQzpv3CeDsdePiRS12xfqd9L7/s1280/20220823_140457.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmkl8gZF_g9vbl7glOBgDfu1jnk7kTCuD5a6_sZVvsMK9rIMfWKdse-WFEkbSEZM5nZQi9WZBUbsY3L-a4QJhSREs2kKj1CJWzXqJ2fMbAiJ6fm7j3iHybq2eJdUN0AeaT_Q9tsYAngKHnhScR2cAXQNRT60Ve_uQGQzpv3CeDsdePiRS12xfqd9L7/w320-h240/20220823_140457.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6OZDAgyspOhG4kqyiJsaPwZue362tFwVyns-o9pnljuYzK9EY9Q1U65tfeMaobvngTSC8hmas-RG-EH_PRtOdVaD9OKUNnHxPdTnttxKN99JpcxGcRty_yOsPRfm7c6vaKhCfdSbe_3LfGzcRR3aKes4UdGVltsPEijSa6nq45cWKNrvO6G0cqUi/s1280/20220823_140506.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6OZDAgyspOhG4kqyiJsaPwZue362tFwVyns-o9pnljuYzK9EY9Q1U65tfeMaobvngTSC8hmas-RG-EH_PRtOdVaD9OKUNnHxPdTnttxKN99JpcxGcRty_yOsPRfm7c6vaKhCfdSbe_3LfGzcRR3aKes4UdGVltsPEijSa6nq45cWKNrvO6G0cqUi/s320/20220823_140506.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj62wTXfH9v0F7Y2bmST3bhE-7FCNK-TkfbdnWCF6BY8FLToSh64AMoibrRNyFwrobdGV6BLpReOul_4YStLFGNGK8fZ4xtAGi8_BLzkrknpqeuwKYZHCOHsafjPELwGkjM8vGG7MHve6vsjgiurJsIO3BONwqQjO3ZZLQQBlugP7JXE-93l_kZrIUq/s1280/20220823_140509.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj62wTXfH9v0F7Y2bmST3bhE-7FCNK-TkfbdnWCF6BY8FLToSh64AMoibrRNyFwrobdGV6BLpReOul_4YStLFGNGK8fZ4xtAGi8_BLzkrknpqeuwKYZHCOHsafjPELwGkjM8vGG7MHve6vsjgiurJsIO3BONwqQjO3ZZLQQBlugP7JXE-93l_kZrIUq/s320/20220823_140509.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passiamo un ponte sul fiume e arriviamo al bivio. Da un lato la via che sale a nord, verso l'Amazzonia settentrionale, a Pucallpa. Dall'altro la nostra strada, che torna verso la cordillera e l'oceano, seguendo sempre il fiume, che qui diventa Chanchamayo (affluente del Perenè).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOhThN9NjijVK85H0OuG9RyamGAqsV3pJ2lYtytNPXXIlGrXf2zc7fwZW7hOxhbhEJntmotU7Jy2wn85RvUFPYK5Kr4WTaArejqBYsWkwhq8fyl5Ph6WOpZe1QEDC-hOX3bpcFqaarWu7gdF6DvdmFuxMqiiw_CR1iPuQNqfqUpAEOeKT73_cNo890/s1280/20220823_140634.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOhThN9NjijVK85H0OuG9RyamGAqsV3pJ2lYtytNPXXIlGrXf2zc7fwZW7hOxhbhEJntmotU7Jy2wn85RvUFPYK5Kr4WTaArejqBYsWkwhq8fyl5Ph6WOpZe1QEDC-hOX3bpcFqaarWu7gdF6DvdmFuxMqiiw_CR1iPuQNqfqUpAEOeKT73_cNo890/s320/20220823_140634.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDysDH4vh6ZmoGf63wKd5nWXWU2O7Hmd1NXPJVpZs10t2EKm9GUYA9nx3R1E2aLqYcyxNwpSTn0dE3tKjPVDP4g8sMITWwvF0Fv2uTYraAl5t4wfbIBMKrPo5guMbwkhO3PyTDHYS3oSd2Hwr6VZUziB0IBhUOpghoU_QF9FM-U6w1-_QzVtWSUmu/s1280/20220823_140642.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDysDH4vh6ZmoGf63wKd5nWXWU2O7Hmd1NXPJVpZs10t2EKm9GUYA9nx3R1E2aLqYcyxNwpSTn0dE3tKjPVDP4g8sMITWwvF0Fv2uTYraAl5t4wfbIBMKrPo5guMbwkhO3PyTDHYS3oSd2Hwr6VZUziB0IBhUOpghoU_QF9FM-U6w1-_QzVtWSUmu/s320/20220823_140642.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Qui è un susseguirsi di attrazioni per turisti, che offrono un'immagine stereotipata, posticcia e caricaturale della selva central e di chi ci abita. D'altronde molti si spingono con i pullmini al massimo fino a qui, alla ricerca dell'esotico, e in qualche modo bisogna farlo trovare bello, pronto, confezionato e perfettamente aderente alle aspettative, cioè al cartoonesco immaginario comune. Vaqueria, Nijandaris, Limonpata e Kimiri sono un condensato di negozietti, frutterie, ristorantini. Si vendono i prodotti locali. Caffè, cacao, frutta.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnXECENueWLIOFJi-iDr8Vf6Lz-VqDebk_or9IWwOuGS5pRqAsRnp8Eh_c2NcPLn9Q4WVNFX2U0bbp5ou3uNv6CjfzFbPe_9ekX0xlMD_HW4HJgfWC_y4VcPZ1p5VsbP7WPf6TrWXkpNrtHHAkfozCeHRpmtJS8eBLFJBYcn9bAUMh2RBF__PgMiE/s1280/20220823_141957.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnXECENueWLIOFJi-iDr8Vf6Lz-VqDebk_or9IWwOuGS5pRqAsRnp8Eh_c2NcPLn9Q4WVNFX2U0bbp5ou3uNv6CjfzFbPe_9ekX0xlMD_HW4HJgfWC_y4VcPZ1p5VsbP7WPf6TrWXkpNrtHHAkfozCeHRpmtJS8eBLFJBYcn9bAUMh2RBF__PgMiE/s320/20220823_141957.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcumkjSefk37kUL-WVoRfxB5oK-YL-RAeF50jXRn6jNt3YzlasEqJnMvlmpuInYgD-IxSh1TrGz6NvkeohDBY0YNjW5NRs-69R5IRR13av_KJvXrkEIbqWA-nvmvERxEvpQJiIoH8nj9ARxqmV-1oibDT47bQ9LhkeImB9rtE-i9K30UcnN8rVBSH-/s1280/20220823_142008.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcumkjSefk37kUL-WVoRfxB5oK-YL-RAeF50jXRn6jNt3YzlasEqJnMvlmpuInYgD-IxSh1TrGz6NvkeohDBY0YNjW5NRs-69R5IRR13av_KJvXrkEIbqWA-nvmvERxEvpQJiIoH8nj9ARxqmV-1oibDT47bQ9LhkeImB9rtE-i9K30UcnN8rVBSH-/s320/20220823_142008.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKn6AJFbeScMuBDQAh1zrOZ_ElynN7duxnFcGV9B-OSKZ0XOXfgK9EYvSF9wantKqv951DqPG7gizh81hvKnHmoX-XlHejH7ztXXWoy8YxrfgLmv6iTNXBpfs38FgoeWq8KbqHTDeasB5o2yKxNAS-1x4ohOSODhS9Ki4pCG3ti0nHhEMd0X0KyBNd/s1280/20220823_144928.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKn6AJFbeScMuBDQAh1zrOZ_ElynN7duxnFcGV9B-OSKZ0XOXfgK9EYvSF9wantKqv951DqPG7gizh81hvKnHmoX-XlHejH7ztXXWoy8YxrfgLmv6iTNXBpfs38FgoeWq8KbqHTDeasB5o2yKxNAS-1x4ohOSODhS9Ki4pCG3ti0nHhEMd0X0KyBNd/s320/20220823_144928.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In breve siamo a La Merced. Qui i nativi han sempre ammazzato i coloni (missionari, contadini, esercito) e viceversa. La città vera e propria è stata fondata da un gruppo di italiani, nel 1884, dopo la guerra del Pacifico, sotto la guida di Josè Manuel Pereira. Avevano tentato di stabilirsi in aree limitrofe, prima, ma eran sempre stati scacciati dagli Ashaninka. Qui no. E costruisci la chiesa, issa la croce, tosta i caffè e apri il ristorante Kalabria. Perchè sì.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvPxWAEhIc5fV6mDCmi5_9xQ3yztjvYeYd_LtgGt8G449wc9PzECXuEHCnUxNHd5MMv5hvlDmTjx3hRKOT2ypF_RONqnf2Uu1mXERjdeQIf2VLqm2ETyMordZ52rrkwTH22gOjqN-NL3lQBrmJZPqF3MhgcAw39EtBkBFMUveOq4R8qvtsIUIIrdn/s1280/20220823_150255.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvPxWAEhIc5fV6mDCmi5_9xQ3yztjvYeYd_LtgGt8G449wc9PzECXuEHCnUxNHd5MMv5hvlDmTjx3hRKOT2ypF_RONqnf2Uu1mXERjdeQIf2VLqm2ETyMordZ52rrkwTH22gOjqN-NL3lQBrmJZPqF3MhgcAw39EtBkBFMUveOq4R8qvtsIUIIrdn/s320/20220823_150255.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9XjP6ODHZZgXGQu7VEgLB2PeHXgxYE5QMSQA5vhDHrQzfo_VeuEIuw2OfwPI16EREKlfdwgGzZpJVGeaUn2Nv8I58sDBHhKHuCnNT-JrIf3_8NhkEdC9k8f0Y13JLQCFOklwEc1hCga3mRwVs_3GbeghOg4ajNkleqKQyfIYUkKVnX-_c7--oaKq/s1280/20220823_150654.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB9XjP6ODHZZgXGQu7VEgLB2PeHXgxYE5QMSQA5vhDHrQzfo_VeuEIuw2OfwPI16EREKlfdwgGzZpJVGeaUn2Nv8I58sDBHhKHuCnNT-JrIf3_8NhkEdC9k8f0Y13JLQCFOklwEc1hCga3mRwVs_3GbeghOg4ajNkleqKQyfIYUkKVnX-_c7--oaKq/s320/20220823_150654.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigeo_R6iv7T9ja5CQxzKRzuLGxLJUmZQw6pM6F8OWoYiy8I1WGlx496Kp2vYT1Cz69eJdsC817iNU3M-BIcnzVg82aA3_KrryRG3h41q6oQaYFQPx3RzuYB44KP0PHKVdtaYF0GLLQDvDVWTZbUyk-QZVkEgj-TjjHzBAowu5YeXXR4FOjguUEmFZM/s1280/20220823_150735.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigeo_R6iv7T9ja5CQxzKRzuLGxLJUmZQw6pM6F8OWoYiy8I1WGlx496Kp2vYT1Cz69eJdsC817iNU3M-BIcnzVg82aA3_KrryRG3h41q6oQaYFQPx3RzuYB44KP0PHKVdtaYF0GLLQDvDVWTZbUyk-QZVkEgj-TjjHzBAowu5YeXXR4FOjguUEmFZM/s320/20220823_150735.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTS3eMVljOqaeJIWZ2g6YRQSVXcE46Hi91-8pa-caWWr-I2QOxIjbKaALmqlLiLy2pPg2ENFVVEz96VkxxVRciQsB5HHmRJZ_TsCJRbfdr4Mc8M6z0YnN33bzZ6fFzQpJYmVhf5-yvDUI3WMFXVdvHKrL0ERoqup1YiusvKqe7ydYGzoSFC3hZnO9/s1280/20220823_151542.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTS3eMVljOqaeJIWZ2g6YRQSVXcE46Hi91-8pa-caWWr-I2QOxIjbKaALmqlLiLy2pPg2ENFVVEz96VkxxVRciQsB5HHmRJZ_TsCJRbfdr4Mc8M6z0YnN33bzZ6fFzQpJYmVhf5-yvDUI3WMFXVdvHKrL0ERoqup1YiusvKqe7ydYGzoSFC3hZnO9/s320/20220823_151542.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Qu-K8G70Lg7Uik6c9lBDiXvY6qIFT3ymUdRAANM3RHHNq4FefsLXr-JtrrjZJjJPGp_L02uH0jN7tQDsY-iAGH1V3F4DLUcJg68LYyYppj59Kh3eAGkeCReqfPHwnrw1JUf9_23LijeP7cktKLH9f41vPFDyVa4_mn11A77yF7xfyCTqHpFR9pjB/s1280/20220823_152422.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Qu-K8G70Lg7Uik6c9lBDiXvY6qIFT3ymUdRAANM3RHHNq4FefsLXr-JtrrjZJjJPGp_L02uH0jN7tQDsY-iAGH1V3F4DLUcJg68LYyYppj59Kh3eAGkeCReqfPHwnrw1JUf9_23LijeP7cktKLH9f41vPFDyVa4_mn11A77yF7xfyCTqHpFR9pjB/s320/20220823_152422.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Gli ultimi 10km sono faticosi per le salite a strappo su strade scassate e trafficate di mezzi imprevedibili nella forma e nei movimenti, dai classici mototaxi ai tricicli camperizzati, dalle carriole a motore con sellino ai carretti a pedali, quasi come noi. La valle si fa più scura, velata di umidità. San Ramon, la nostra meta, è ormai vicina.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRJlegl8VSNw7L45prggD6lWOUaGnczKiwfqVqvsT0NEt3Wa_id12d3Zmx_3HJj4sybuqHrUDFopNQSNOFuinn49zyzbXrL43gFOtvqcJssOY5cSaW96iBN5PyhjJtKz1ZgrmxyXJFyLET3xmJQt7mQREp65JsmavsYlI9zymijqlvFl4GbCNj6BMr/s1280/20220823_153839.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRJlegl8VSNw7L45prggD6lWOUaGnczKiwfqVqvsT0NEt3Wa_id12d3Zmx_3HJj4sybuqHrUDFopNQSNOFuinn49zyzbXrL43gFOtvqcJssOY5cSaW96iBN5PyhjJtKz1ZgrmxyXJFyLET3xmJQt7mQREp65JsmavsYlI9zymijqlvFl4GbCNj6BMr/s320/20220823_153839.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1rEkaKHAyx9YGMb2xK6Gv4GxGT7ZI4uOnPAEkSmN0ZoffwSo2p-RrdgOb3kE5h4-k7ZU36JAL8acbI7C5E_ejpCLlOB6YxvmcSMD_lKIxwOgpT2hX5k7njNp6Qqjrq8cNIjm0OtjOoiZ9vy2w0FOFS4gfZhUSNBW_a5IA5uvaC9fhZaRy1n828HX/s1280/20220823_153843.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1rEkaKHAyx9YGMb2xK6Gv4GxGT7ZI4uOnPAEkSmN0ZoffwSo2p-RrdgOb3kE5h4-k7ZU36JAL8acbI7C5E_ejpCLlOB6YxvmcSMD_lKIxwOgpT2hX5k7njNp6Qqjrq8cNIjm0OtjOoiZ9vy2w0FOFS4gfZhUSNBW_a5IA5uvaC9fhZaRy1n828HX/s320/20220823_153843.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXZLUyRlp-TzM1RomYhA4ZHK8gBIudIJ2_ZE2t5bMaGBb7da5AdEXj2K_a29cVaVP7ZVTirSEg_BK-CfteZK81HPfU5sHXbOguD8FPJ2U7tu3sugLPoTBnI1180uxrainub-eEVcFdB5pRNhFbPT7azYy5GutOzK0aHAlVHH0zYGIn4RMe0SyG2eg/s1280/20220823_154815.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXZLUyRlp-TzM1RomYhA4ZHK8gBIudIJ2_ZE2t5bMaGBb7da5AdEXj2K_a29cVaVP7ZVTirSEg_BK-CfteZK81HPfU5sHXbOguD8FPJ2U7tu3sugLPoTBnI1180uxrainub-eEVcFdB5pRNhFbPT7azYy5GutOzK0aHAlVHH0zYGIn4RMe0SyG2eg/s320/20220823_154815.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvX01zmcMUDDh-bFam_9qNjFxN633hGcyfdLjXwd8kwOFJEu1BRzasF1XxDxMcqVmfdsE9nJ-vt-b6nRsQ2FST9L7Md2PhGJT8HFuQj_HZuZ5TW-rto4-_6UJCw5NZPYF01PjMzJtN9MffHkmZ9qwg_uteOXV6rIGv99t1P4wPT2yZEdoIDJTynbgy/s1280/20220823_154824.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvX01zmcMUDDh-bFam_9qNjFxN633hGcyfdLjXwd8kwOFJEu1BRzasF1XxDxMcqVmfdsE9nJ-vt-b6nRsQ2FST9L7Md2PhGJT8HFuQj_HZuZ5TW-rto4-_6UJCw5NZPYF01PjMzJtN9MffHkmZ9qwg_uteOXV6rIGv99t1P4wPT2yZEdoIDJTynbgy/s320/20220823_154824.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Fondata come avamposto dei missionari francescani nel '600, vide scontrarsi di continuo coloni e nativi, prima per l'espansione verso la selva a scapito dei secondi, poi per la ribellione di Juan Santos Atahualpa. Però, tra '700 e '800, da Tarma i coloni avanzano verso la foresta, costruendo forti e avamposti. A metà '800 il governo promuove politiche di colonizzazione da parte di europei e cinesi, regalando lotti di terra sottratti agli indigeni. Arrivano in molti e fanno fortuna. Questo richiama altri coloni, che occupano tutta la valle con l'aiuto dell'esercito, a discapito dei nativi, sfrattati e costretti a vivere sempre più nel folto delle giungla. Negli anni '50 e '60 gli andini scendono alla selva: il boom del caffè richiede manodopera. Negli anni '70 molte prospere haciendas vengono espropriate dallo stato. Falliscono. Inizia un periodo di crisi e povertà che tutt'ora affligge la popolazione locale, aggravate dalla presenza di senderisti, tupamaros e narcos.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">In realtà San Ramon ci si presenta come una cittadina vivace e vivibile per i canoni della zona. In bella mostra in piazza c'è il biplano con cui, nel 1927, il tenente Leonardo Alvarino y Herr effettuò il primo volo da Lima a San Ramon, stabilendo un record di altezza (sorvolare le Ande a 5000m) e aprendo la via aerea verso Iquitos.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEG1Vd_aFFziKYcLFSUCQPuzph1eD29tdOPgCrreKTvVNtFP1zVpDgjbHUeZCr0PMG1auXON-3t2aMcf4uZnfiPNsPyYyQMtFnyWd_uoER5aupEme7sgWa8h6FXGrLmhyICzZP-Xqht7OyZ2cAO63M3Z0m8OhR4txqittJPYE0SbLpkGEsL3TZ9kFe/s1280/20220823_160028.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEG1Vd_aFFziKYcLFSUCQPuzph1eD29tdOPgCrreKTvVNtFP1zVpDgjbHUeZCr0PMG1auXON-3t2aMcf4uZnfiPNsPyYyQMtFnyWd_uoER5aupEme7sgWa8h6FXGrLmhyICzZP-Xqht7OyZ2cAO63M3Z0m8OhR4txqittJPYE0SbLpkGEsL3TZ9kFe/s320/20220823_160028.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBaG73bVJMvRvhOHRjeS5RLyPLKQI4_Ljzt5J1Qcwv35s6SeRxP0NT1bC-u1EtC0JsR_h2lQimryZJcb5gIcd75W8uGJ_PErpqJmXB4-tSPCqXehChImg2jGNFgUrBF_4iwwSoohtmiaMkDtPhcTcLUXo0THxQ0SeDMfAvVJHOhx7ka_IJgTjh2l2/s1280/20220823_160043.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBaG73bVJMvRvhOHRjeS5RLyPLKQI4_Ljzt5J1Qcwv35s6SeRxP0NT1bC-u1EtC0JsR_h2lQimryZJcb5gIcd75W8uGJ_PErpqJmXB4-tSPCqXehChImg2jGNFgUrBF_4iwwSoohtmiaMkDtPhcTcLUXo0THxQ0SeDMfAvVJHOhx7ka_IJgTjh2l2/s320/20220823_160043.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlbpTG8jhqGzIltBoeeUqFCmv0aXOA_mevuHc0s8SiynHLGglG3nckc46CQ-mEyIfwW6IPkdjKZFFFs0pcfG99EFTJYnUGjHyPBrY-vOzZGioapWzDpKS9_uhAAJaLNb_js-X-XmZM-dk4QpPWD3ReQxdLRkZ4wAqim5eLf2sAxZ159XNsFLBUXZk7/s1280/20220823_160112.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlbpTG8jhqGzIltBoeeUqFCmv0aXOA_mevuHc0s8SiynHLGglG3nckc46CQ-mEyIfwW6IPkdjKZFFFs0pcfG99EFTJYnUGjHyPBrY-vOzZGioapWzDpKS9_uhAAJaLNb_js-X-XmZM-dk4QpPWD3ReQxdLRkZ4wAqim5eLf2sAxZ159XNsFLBUXZk7/s320/20220823_160112.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci stabiliamo in hotel e, con una cifra altissima rispetto al solito (25 euro una doppia con bagno e colazione) ci garantiamo una sistemazione così lussuosa che quasi mi commuove. E' una struttura nuova, pulita, spaziosa, ben illuminata. HA L'ACQUA ed è persino CALDA, cosa che non vediamo da almeno una settimana. Ci sono asciugamani, sapone e carta igienica. Una reggia! Dopo aver scattao due foto dal balcone, cado in un sonno profondo, ancora vestita da bici, stesa sul letto con le gambe alzate, appoggiate in bilico sullo schienale della sedia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikbVLXZ1AQHp3pJE0D3F_AgZ2qhCQmyZ_zU10Rhx82a6i6eJ9lKser4VNZnUa6jBE_LTzYNxpAfW97H2ztKXaleuHpH7da20OPnLYIMl4q1waiodcU2lT4E0uS4Fou6cEwxBP_JPebq5NGTROTtnqHVxNj9CY0Ej1BwA6QScI9Ape1YkliIAXs3jE3/s1280/20220823_162334.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikbVLXZ1AQHp3pJE0D3F_AgZ2qhCQmyZ_zU10Rhx82a6i6eJ9lKser4VNZnUa6jBE_LTzYNxpAfW97H2ztKXaleuHpH7da20OPnLYIMl4q1waiodcU2lT4E0uS4Fou6cEwxBP_JPebq5NGTROTtnqHVxNj9CY0Ej1BwA6QScI9Ape1YkliIAXs3jE3/s320/20220823_162334.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyXlWGCQ5Pop_u_76DP_N5Ju1ENMXPnBM2XpJgFej9pd0Pt9AJgu3R8GU3sDBNeEWJWUQPL6_ZHHuBgvfmhIOu0CBiS4bit9-i4tMdUc1BdyW16vBKcdg7sI_7h8ioPcsZwEdxf5MaKe6UEb0YhDbmOyGT0abdwTectRILv76pN6MhjEe9kjTuLlWf/s1280/20220823_171914.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyXlWGCQ5Pop_u_76DP_N5Ju1ENMXPnBM2XpJgFej9pd0Pt9AJgu3R8GU3sDBNeEWJWUQPL6_ZHHuBgvfmhIOu0CBiS4bit9-i4tMdUc1BdyW16vBKcdg7sI_7h8ioPcsZwEdxf5MaKe6UEb0YhDbmOyGT0abdwTectRILv76pN6MhjEe9kjTuLlWf/s320/20220823_171914.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuGlNPYNAC25RqjLc36kLUNUvTiqp68MuoB5sGh2ParMP-tE9iW2E1YCdZeaemcgB9g3r6ElAOlkqm5O9zZnOCHZCH7K26kbCWoSu_dgGJ5lAlDVPHZO3E5RthtJ7s105qTBYYVcnFnwkaJ8m_nJdzDmP4Kdd1YCniRrhu9lr9gz8ISn9NW8LPRpZ/s1280/20220823_171921.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuGlNPYNAC25RqjLc36kLUNUvTiqp68MuoB5sGh2ParMP-tE9iW2E1YCdZeaemcgB9g3r6ElAOlkqm5O9zZnOCHZCH7K26kbCWoSu_dgGJ5lAlDVPHZO3E5RthtJ7s105qTBYYVcnFnwkaJ8m_nJdzDmP4Kdd1YCniRrhu9lr9gz8ISn9NW8LPRpZ/s320/20220823_171921.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Domani ci attende l'ultima tappa davvero tosta. Avendo allungato oggi, saranno solo 43km, ma da 800m risaliremo a 3000 di quota, attaccando per grossa parte il passo da 4800m che ci separa da Lima. Domani lasceremo dunque la selva centrale, saluteremo l'Amazzonia, la foresta e i suoi abitanti. Torniamo in altura, ma questa volta nell'altiplano central.<div><br /><div>Una nota conclusiva a margine, per una storiella scema. Sto ridendo da giorni perchè l'altra sera, a Puerto Ene, nell'alloggio senza tetto e con poche pareti, è venuta a farci visita una falenottera azzurra, cioè un insetto enorme e alato che, più che una farfalla, pareva la versione LGBT del conte Dracula. Siccome non c'è da fidarsi di nulla, ma non me la sentivo di ammazzarla lì per lì, ho cercato di trasferirla facendola entrare in un sacchetto usato come cestino dell'umido, con bucce di banana mandarino. Già mi faceva molto ridere l'idea di chiedere a questo insetto grosso come me di "buttarsi via da solo" ed entrare, gentilmente, per conto proprio, nell'immondizia. Poi è entrata davvero motu proprio e, dal nulla, serissimo, Gigi ha commentato: magari nella vita precedente era un ragioniere.</div><div><br /><br />Mercoledì, 24/8</div><div>San Ramon - Palca (2760m)</div><div>45km</div><div><br /></div><div>Non nego: oggi ho avuto una piccola crisi. Ho desiderato tornare. Peccato mortale. Ho desiderato non essere nel luogo in cui ero, ho pensato forte a casa. Succede una volta ogni diecimila anni, quando davvero si supera il limite di quello che per me è tollerabile. E' durato un istante, e ora vi spiego cosa mi abbia condotta a questa interferenza dal godimento pieno dell'hic et nunc.</div><div>La tappa di oggi è stata tutta salita, e si sapeva. In 45km siamo passati da 800 a quasi 2800m, per altro in modo molto tranquillo e agile. Un problema serio sono stati come sempre, ma più del solito, i cani. Oggi non abbiamo passato città ma solo case sparse e piccoli agglomerati di baracche. In ogni singola capanna, in ogni casupola, in ogni bodeguita, da uno a sei perri aggressivi, che ci hanno inseguiti nell'indifferenza o ilarità dei padroni, quando presenti. Questo ha generato, già di per sè, un clima generale di tensione ed esasperazione, frustrazione, rabbia, poi aggressività da adrenalina alle stelle, come le bestie. Tante urla ferine per spaventare i cerberi, pietre lanciate senza davvero colpire, bastoni agitati in aria, ad un certo punto persino una zappa trovata a terra, con la quale ho fatto pisciare addosso una muta di cani che, vedendomi nella follia totale urlare e roteare l'attrezzo come una mazza chiodata, scagliandomi contro di loro gridando come una furia, han pensato l volessi ammazzare veramente. Invece volevo solo spaventarli ed evitare ci inseguissero oltre. Nel gestire la fatica della salita e degli attacchi dei cani, in tutto questo, ad un certo punto di siamo trovati circondati da uno sciame di api. Stavamo pedalando tranquilli, sulla carreggiata, e prima Gigi poi io ci siamo trovati completamente coperti di pelosissime e agguerittisme api. Ma perchè? Che abbiamo fatto? Non solo ci hanno assaliti, ma non ci hanno mollati per interi lunghissimi minuti, nè fermandoci nè continuando a pedalare. Hanno iniziato a pungere sul viso, ovunque, narici, labbra, sopracciglia, collo, gola, mani. Si infilano nel casco, sento ronzare nel cervello e poi una, due, tre punture. Fa un male brutto. E non se ne vanno, seguitano e ne arrivano altre e poi altre. Mentre cerco, stupidamente, di "fuggire" dallo sciame pedalando forte, tre cani iniziano a rincorrermi, e allora mi fermo, butto la bici a terra, mi chiudo in posizione fetale, con le testa coperta dalla maglia, e piango. Così è troppo, veramente troppo. Farà ridere la scena, parrà un capriccio. Ma in quel momento si è incrinato qualcosa, e non ho avuto più nè difese nè strumenti. I cani, vedendomi ferma,si sono allontanati.Le api pian piano sono morte, perchè a furia di pungerci TUTTE ci ha rimesso le penne un intero sciame. Gigi si è spaventato, vedendo la mia reazione. Temeva uno shock anafilattico. Ero solo STANCA. Abbiamo passato i successivi dieci minuti a estrarre i pungiglioni e a medicare con ammoniaca. Le punture si sono gonfiate e hanno continuato a fare male. Ancora stasera, facendo la doccia ho sfilato alcuni pungiglioni dalla testa. Nulla di che. Ma che fatica. Poi è passata e ho ricominciato a vivere l'attimo e godermi ogni istante, sia chiaro. E' solo stata la congiuntura a farmi cedere.</div><div><br /></div><div>Riavvolgo il nastro.</div><div>Questa mattina San Ramon si è svegliata con noi, e la macelleria di fronte all'albergo, alle 7, era già gremita di polli con le zampe tese a saluto romano e avventrici in abiti misti tra l'amazzonico e l'andino.</div><div>Per colazione frittata e frittelle di platano, e una bella dose di mal di pancia, nausea coliche e diarrea. Ormai penso che ce ne libereremo una volta in Italia, forse.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16GFiR0wGaSRv7Hqk6sqakftwfMmsAp19o74aioFFx4svQOtbxAduB-2LyOiamB7EsC0dvsy0aKhcqP6v-XLKnKoz9ewTriPSj3rCDElio6oKd6Xc_jkJByjQG7G6yVivkvNVdH47CL0-TdR0iGPvO-AL6J1KR4c5yuLNlmy43ENYwqdBWcbKkGMf/s1280/20220824_075821.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16GFiR0wGaSRv7Hqk6sqakftwfMmsAp19o74aioFFx4svQOtbxAduB-2LyOiamB7EsC0dvsy0aKhcqP6v-XLKnKoz9ewTriPSj3rCDElio6oKd6Xc_jkJByjQG7G6yVivkvNVdH47CL0-TdR0iGPvO-AL6J1KR4c5yuLNlmy43ENYwqdBWcbKkGMf/s320/20220824_075821.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ci mettiamo in sella un po' a fatica, e con fatica affrontiamo i primi kilometri di salita, dopo esser sopravvissuti all'assurdo traffico cittadino. Il paesaggio muta in breve e la foresta si fa più rada, meno colorata, più silenziosa. Le alture, al contrario, si elevano sempre più maestose davanti a noi. E' la già nota Cordigliera. Ci attende per l'ultima grande salita.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk-kHC5riEXCqMXSXs9XvfAaqCEwRUlyCwlCA7ZxEJEUA-DbHjIJ6BDAFvh71CFhY-iKNDUa7eRULTQrA0_iewrs8jj_8AK9STgFEw_Htpl7dHpeQQAmvE2PfLPEmzqcjyFGvF93s6Q4QS5nF-HoSQVlyNWeoLcDtZnFSIdhUupGq5T83vzPfKSH9D/s1280/20220824_094607.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk-kHC5riEXCqMXSXs9XvfAaqCEwRUlyCwlCA7ZxEJEUA-DbHjIJ6BDAFvh71CFhY-iKNDUa7eRULTQrA0_iewrs8jj_8AK9STgFEw_Htpl7dHpeQQAmvE2PfLPEmzqcjyFGvF93s6Q4QS5nF-HoSQVlyNWeoLcDtZnFSIdhUupGq5T83vzPfKSH9D/s320/20220824_094607.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLyzVCH7D7qWrEo73Ghf1079xCeGGM6Eq3DJYT80eDuWQ3hVPXOD3WpJfcGYGPbu4LpysjAmhofGZnYSWfYJLkB_3cNZb-ZGZtG_yK6BdAXSyJPy5PN9VVpiTcJb3HdTqPirJcQsVMtzvrz0jCZkhBB7T5mVL9XFd5bs6y9ZvlLuKuWv5_3TlLXlzG/s1280/20220824_094628.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLyzVCH7D7qWrEo73Ghf1079xCeGGM6Eq3DJYT80eDuWQ3hVPXOD3WpJfcGYGPbu4LpysjAmhofGZnYSWfYJLkB_3cNZb-ZGZtG_yK6BdAXSyJPy5PN9VVpiTcJb3HdTqPirJcQsVMtzvrz0jCZkhBB7T5mVL9XFd5bs6y9ZvlLuKuWv5_3TlLXlzG/s320/20220824_094628.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEmhlqTqzQTarkqyDGvZ5CJpsklHGC4cEw0_euARvKq1GRfafKq8ND5cHcWpBxlGBlaDk4-xnRpnXwsaq-iWUW2jMh3vIW8UNNShMHUr4Gc-aJDevnBMSxmIeG6xPsskKO3nB1XGIxlEmCDgTQgRumkUCUbvhtYLEB7tq2pq9EZXhf0oy0HtCTtLz/s1280/20220824_102110.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEmhlqTqzQTarkqyDGvZ5CJpsklHGC4cEw0_euARvKq1GRfafKq8ND5cHcWpBxlGBlaDk4-xnRpnXwsaq-iWUW2jMh3vIW8UNNShMHUr4Gc-aJDevnBMSxmIeG6xPsskKO3nB1XGIxlEmCDgTQgRumkUCUbvhtYLEB7tq2pq9EZXhf0oy0HtCTtLz/s320/20220824_102110.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi è anche giorno di tunnel e gallerie, che sono buchi nella pancia delle montagne in cui roccia e buio e umidità ci inghiottono. La valle qui è ormai così stretta da non lasciare spazio alla strada, che deve passar dentro e trafiggere la pietra. Il rio Tarma scorre lontano sotto di noi. Lo si vede di rado, coperto dagli strapiombi e dalla vegetazione, ma se ne sente il canto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3S-DZQmKgyFMLvua9iD2Yr4fE8czU9Cbb0iV8d1DUEyeviIhvO3U98hCqyVe5paZjXgNTRXc6a-d0sd19N_kgI12bM9wzJ9MtX5FO2t21_guzpkxpJkfjS5vGT6rTqc8PwBRvn20yeXA2IFpXlWPMt4B0o4Oc3RbMxT-5S9F3mnfDR5wGqg8ro3ne/s1280/20220824_102235.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3S-DZQmKgyFMLvua9iD2Yr4fE8czU9Cbb0iV8d1DUEyeviIhvO3U98hCqyVe5paZjXgNTRXc6a-d0sd19N_kgI12bM9wzJ9MtX5FO2t21_guzpkxpJkfjS5vGT6rTqc8PwBRvn20yeXA2IFpXlWPMt4B0o4Oc3RbMxT-5S9F3mnfDR5wGqg8ro3ne/s320/20220824_102235.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdf7qQSReSciHiZ0PDPbFMTQwi2u3lBs58JV5t45sOFY_jwjLTjJ19tmTGs-gmcjDf7dhbHVXJRK1DtH9sX_q34igeY8ldprT3e2BEHtEDc3eOaQSlSnl_28uSIqb_EN7wcLWPacLo9r0C4LvvOUcGj2C0xJR74upJPZNmpwTeQ-QeDprJOdkQcci/s1280/20220824_102244.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdf7qQSReSciHiZ0PDPbFMTQwi2u3lBs58JV5t45sOFY_jwjLTjJ19tmTGs-gmcjDf7dhbHVXJRK1DtH9sX_q34igeY8ldprT3e2BEHtEDc3eOaQSlSnl_28uSIqb_EN7wcLWPacLo9r0C4LvvOUcGj2C0xJR74upJPZNmpwTeQ-QeDprJOdkQcci/s320/20220824_102244.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-g9RzIMMMKWy56YmZbHF518-O7-7Pa9jzu1da79jCmo4l_5bM6-uesMzeGJzQHCcRJfFFLXCsE14UPjYeJoxcU99Oo_Pp1l1mCzVTe7IfiTj9JFgyLgLVkjvsuB-toSOsTC0DYios9Q2yKhERXVHZ8Py6lh-sTOnRJP9qZt8cykKP_eVEOTyF0Ux/s1280/20220824_103635.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-g9RzIMMMKWy56YmZbHF518-O7-7Pa9jzu1da79jCmo4l_5bM6-uesMzeGJzQHCcRJfFFLXCsE14UPjYeJoxcU99Oo_Pp1l1mCzVTe7IfiTj9JFgyLgLVkjvsuB-toSOsTC0DYios9Q2yKhERXVHZ8Py6lh-sTOnRJP9qZt8cykKP_eVEOTyF0Ux/s320/20220824_103635.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC-fiyfBLSthDDOdnljChzXlNVhQMW8LNhbtriEh_kbjEOZK6Qh-WtYbsQ12chpFmE41rLB_PVBNQbq8YMNtF6IqXt2S5Y_-0mL4sheUC8h6DqZGNYEiRD3GwIYPi0lTf0DxI5xbGfkKACH1NO7KC4L9zOyaGKxP9JGRk8GT5akK_KmI0Ut9sQ1s8/s1280/20220824_103639.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnC-fiyfBLSthDDOdnljChzXlNVhQMW8LNhbtriEh_kbjEOZK6Qh-WtYbsQ12chpFmE41rLB_PVBNQbq8YMNtF6IqXt2S5Y_-0mL4sheUC8h6DqZGNYEiRD3GwIYPi0lTf0DxI5xbGfkKACH1NO7KC4L9zOyaGKxP9JGRk8GT5akK_KmI0Ut9sQ1s8/s320/20220824_103639.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMWMsHJrQTdSTUnm03Gz5Wz0O2DldakfQOT90k4XyNRnI5Wt21Zh-lsqGbDDWxYVnygZaxriqXIraJt6vmiHdOz45dKOsBtM0UlSQ5tX-m2xlaABcN-srf46fueomHhKPyrOrvokRdFQLLdP4a70vl5x4lIxfKE2ohAg_SpiLT25JMI_WM1Hg1BDKG/s1280/20220824_103928.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMWMsHJrQTdSTUnm03Gz5Wz0O2DldakfQOT90k4XyNRnI5Wt21Zh-lsqGbDDWxYVnygZaxriqXIraJt6vmiHdOz45dKOsBtM0UlSQ5tX-m2xlaABcN-srf46fueomHhKPyrOrvokRdFQLLdP4a70vl5x4lIxfKE2ohAg_SpiLT25JMI_WM1Hg1BDKG/s320/20220824_103928.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dei cani vi ho già detto prima, e non ne parlerò oltre, con buona pace degli animalisti e di quelli che "se non li disturbi non ti fanno niente". La nostra esistenza li disturba. Tenete conto che tutto ciò che racconto è intervallato da inseguimenti e tenzoni. Come dicevo, oggi le uniche città sono state quella della partenza e quella dell'arrivo. Tutto il percorso è però costellato di agglomerati di quattro baracche, dove vivono un paio di famiglie, e negozietti, dove esse famiglie lavorano. Per noi, perri a parte, è una manna: cibo e acqua sono sempre garantiti. Facciamo una prima sosta tra Pan de Azucar e San Josè de Ucuyacu, nomi molto più lunghi dei "villaggi" stessi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrcV7TYzfpoNJw0Oc3cKs7f45jeR5mlH6DNXwwBD7C5q8aCKdlKrmMLVcfDJH3dfL1x3vg4njvgwYOQVhjPTOtEyicujq7gAA2_odobcRprCnzn4mSw77zyX8hZJf2Vi7HIAzkWV_72ORWfVfdn74dhq8RPzNYNWM5dN7JozJpizzbFcIMLFoovBK/s1280/20220824_110133.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrcV7TYzfpoNJw0Oc3cKs7f45jeR5mlH6DNXwwBD7C5q8aCKdlKrmMLVcfDJH3dfL1x3vg4njvgwYOQVhjPTOtEyicujq7gAA2_odobcRprCnzn4mSw77zyX8hZJf2Vi7HIAzkWV_72ORWfVfdn74dhq8RPzNYNWM5dN7JozJpizzbFcIMLFoovBK/s320/20220824_110133.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVGpeVnF8_1J5gF3sNW1nnF7U0FKboJRu9_696-uxXlMTUMXpN4FfgJDp6VP3nhufHQGJ_xHLZRTlkpeFVbif6_ugCD1lEXiMdcbAdoSj47P7tUlL512c3WSS8FkS01HIHVdmX9fARzx_g8sjkr7CwmK4hNi9bwOOsWzSnsQJveUbWyZBdFEsbztXe/s1280/20220824_110136.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVGpeVnF8_1J5gF3sNW1nnF7U0FKboJRu9_696-uxXlMTUMXpN4FfgJDp6VP3nhufHQGJ_xHLZRTlkpeFVbif6_ugCD1lEXiMdcbAdoSj47P7tUlL512c3WSS8FkS01HIHVdmX9fARzx_g8sjkr7CwmK4hNi9bwOOsWzSnsQJveUbWyZBdFEsbztXe/s320/20220824_110136.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I prodotti sono sempre gli stessi: bibite, frutta (agrumi, banane, platano, granadilla), chiflets di platano dolci e salate, torte antiche e polverose, snack confezionati e frutta secca, spesso caramellata. In media per quattro o cinque prodotti si spende l'equivalente di un paio di euro.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYCK2wick8cG73JR-EjqY3RPQ2_rKyvxZfHr_JLqQUmz_tXpAsLc1ALUHaoN5OxiHsf8MaG2Pp_W8b-oyZGJS72E4KChg4bKA264qjoQQsWOZ-Ua8BmCk7IZPaJ24_UGWcQmph2lbr0gC1_p0dzJSD7OgnnESGj3d45NKkeYYyPoRsyBll_KHz5c6/s1280/20220824_111046.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIYCK2wick8cG73JR-EjqY3RPQ2_rKyvxZfHr_JLqQUmz_tXpAsLc1ALUHaoN5OxiHsf8MaG2Pp_W8b-oyZGJS72E4KChg4bKA264qjoQQsWOZ-Ua8BmCk7IZPaJ24_UGWcQmph2lbr0gC1_p0dzJSD7OgnnESGj3d45NKkeYYyPoRsyBll_KHz5c6/s320/20220824_111046.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb1SBO8QcwAILIka_gb8JgWAg6YVv5vTukX1OXdku23T0bj1mPlupv1KyWFvLWyqm555xJ9izqAYlTTI-pTX7EsCTP6C_LBExuu-i4LjqUGVaEd0BwFgchu6rZAF56Y_JhyZfBxYD8Z0PlYFjQVKOQ4t_eaJX3s0NwZDHoddNNoV-Ny5ITveYL7_gX/s1280/20220824_114519.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb1SBO8QcwAILIka_gb8JgWAg6YVv5vTukX1OXdku23T0bj1mPlupv1KyWFvLWyqm555xJ9izqAYlTTI-pTX7EsCTP6C_LBExuu-i4LjqUGVaEd0BwFgchu6rZAF56Y_JhyZfBxYD8Z0PlYFjQVKOQ4t_eaJX3s0NwZDHoddNNoV-Ny5ITveYL7_gX/s320/20220824_114519.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMsBdAVLQVM0CeY9H9xI71NBdOEyOiHOe9QXW_vdt_b14SnH5eaJZpzVAqCkKl-nbTQape2ugjj_vbPWckVtSWky_DZ8oT_VIqQbM82_pMSeCr3NZ0aclLgFm5SIfLJipehqW22_b_okinPJapV3_4q2RtBK9PSAORrADxc1qLjxkv3-6jKcAwTI_/s1280/20220824_114551.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMsBdAVLQVM0CeY9H9xI71NBdOEyOiHOe9QXW_vdt_b14SnH5eaJZpzVAqCkKl-nbTQape2ugjj_vbPWckVtSWky_DZ8oT_VIqQbM82_pMSeCr3NZ0aclLgFm5SIfLJipehqW22_b_okinPJapV3_4q2RtBK9PSAORrADxc1qLjxkv3-6jKcAwTI_/s320/20220824_114551.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tutta la valle è costellata di centrali idroelettriche, molte delle quali di proprietà Enel. E là dove non ci sno turbine, ci sono cascate. Una mi colpisce per il nome. la ducha del diablo. Si vede che ha le chiappette strette, Satana, perchè il filo d'acqua lunghissimo che scende in verticale è veramente un filo interdentale.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswsZ-Y2uDCdmAfcz4WfwXK0NLSsWyiWXx1VzCt-uQvmgvvZb7IskfEEjAfo6JbZDAdtseu_J365p64srYSOT4xttrThL6wq5UaEOoQXCJ96ip3TNaHs9I3xurAHEk2acJ36xSmo-64MQzyrO3rnbAf13Fkh7oCmN_1LcE9RxplzAAx6ZZcOCH5K-j/s1280/20220824_114611.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiswsZ-Y2uDCdmAfcz4WfwXK0NLSsWyiWXx1VzCt-uQvmgvvZb7IskfEEjAfo6JbZDAdtseu_J365p64srYSOT4xttrThL6wq5UaEOoQXCJ96ip3TNaHs9I3xurAHEk2acJ36xSmo-64MQzyrO3rnbAf13Fkh7oCmN_1LcE9RxplzAAx6ZZcOCH5K-j/s320/20220824_114611.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjKV0uW3_ecPkmL46QPUQPI1J6ayucztS0YgDK0JoP5p4-1AUD5BLsxgGVpFwNXA_Cnb1YJ4uMGQFeAiAE8jgO6hTwPw9V58Zdizi5j7zZlWFYjSVZwwrzslO3qA_NNFyWw4Ynh9HO44ZT605q1w4PwK6cEuYtVuxP-6j_OZhvEjDYvfnmv7MimqT0/s1280/20220824_114621.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjKV0uW3_ecPkmL46QPUQPI1J6ayucztS0YgDK0JoP5p4-1AUD5BLsxgGVpFwNXA_Cnb1YJ4uMGQFeAiAE8jgO6hTwPw9V58Zdizi5j7zZlWFYjSVZwwrzslO3qA_NNFyWw4Ynh9HO44ZT605q1w4PwK6cEuYtVuxP-6j_OZhvEjDYvfnmv7MimqT0/s320/20220824_114621.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Attraversiamo anche il Tunel Yanango, che è il fiore all'occhiello dell'ingegneria locale. Si tratta di una normalissima galleria lunga poco più di un kilometro, ma è un tunnel "moderno", con le pareti protette da cemento e persino illuminato. Gli altri sono buchi nella roccia fatti grossolanamente con la dinamite, bui e pieni di buche e pozze.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikIPWd5HURyGfWIoy19vbfdf819rd3CvYKl14ltqhlhbJCUWaG2vxHr8yUukbNbe4K2RbubBQngwrt6ngeR07pHE38xeXalOU9uzUIrQxFRaWQMB1QytvlRFJsmKfui9lKUYs8PG4sjwZTXViN4_2F-NQRQOdwdtivQMkDhofvXwKn66Gu8fu7B65s/s1280/20220824_114625.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikIPWd5HURyGfWIoy19vbfdf819rd3CvYKl14ltqhlhbJCUWaG2vxHr8yUukbNbe4K2RbubBQngwrt6ngeR07pHE38xeXalOU9uzUIrQxFRaWQMB1QytvlRFJsmKfui9lKUYs8PG4sjwZTXViN4_2F-NQRQOdwdtivQMkDhofvXwKn66Gu8fu7B65s/s320/20220824_114625.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAGsYY9JAbDHm3mCV8HWFYRFEGfY8Qn-_aVHEQBN2sNccKDxisiahpQ3B64NDGx5QA41WjFA3hi8HdU29n_f5cdLQbB3HMPF4FTG2hRRxijAKZXkt7bSeNb8BesFRM3e9gRt4Cn6728EhNE0LfJ5bZ1WFgowUcF8W1Be1DxvmZMB623XojwaFHLdL/s1280/20220824_115044.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyAGsYY9JAbDHm3mCV8HWFYRFEGfY8Qn-_aVHEQBN2sNccKDxisiahpQ3B64NDGx5QA41WjFA3hi8HdU29n_f5cdLQbB3HMPF4FTG2hRRxijAKZXkt7bSeNb8BesFRM3e9gRt4Cn6728EhNE0LfJ5bZ1WFgowUcF8W1Be1DxvmZMB623XojwaFHLdL/s320/20220824_115044.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Sono così orgogliosi del tunnel che lo considerano quasi un monumento e non mancano, all'uscita, baracchini e venditori di cose per tutti coloro che si fermano ad ammirare una tale opera della tecnica.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzyxx4LfImQIJ6vt9TXFQJoEZPnWuYXET6mpTyWtDL7hoLfGhu9uEYTnV0rG_WDLtL-u7mQl3oRM5GjKGYc1yLOrTc1QiOdK_nEdQjhKDQOwPBUQ4CKEMGuVdlxkriuqZeZtk66Op6Ylg4nwgD2SKz_vQ81sjgx2l8e4sCB4WeQxEHRQZ9zwlbk7h/s1280/20220824_115817.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzyxx4LfImQIJ6vt9TXFQJoEZPnWuYXET6mpTyWtDL7hoLfGhu9uEYTnV0rG_WDLtL-u7mQl3oRM5GjKGYc1yLOrTc1QiOdK_nEdQjhKDQOwPBUQ4CKEMGuVdlxkriuqZeZtk66Op6Ylg4nwgD2SKz_vQ81sjgx2l8e4sCB4WeQxEHRQZ9zwlbk7h/s320/20220824_115817.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYl9OLvFsSAMJ8KajmE51ieSz0PGGJCainUqw4yB87r_-mzDlFMO1YPkLuemeHZAWFRYbQWkz0yPee5d6_Bpbm6o49q2GOWusWNYnof4wjxeu-OTLFvVe4wFx56blIa4aJgM-_5e2gpWCRcO2m24vt5HcfLI-vD7LjSrOcV5Kt7CHwGgmOVwCnRwC/s1280/20220824_115822.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYl9OLvFsSAMJ8KajmE51ieSz0PGGJCainUqw4yB87r_-mzDlFMO1YPkLuemeHZAWFRYbQWkz0yPee5d6_Bpbm6o49q2GOWusWNYnof4wjxeu-OTLFvVe4wFx56blIa4aJgM-_5e2gpWCRcO2m24vt5HcfLI-vD7LjSrOcV5Kt7CHwGgmOVwCnRwC/s320/20220824_115822.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhfrzlwJG704S7h04emD7w2Wnxap0GiV3YkG12zxHHekci3E97UbqvLQdEgxhSXQ86bueZV_Yw8mfvdD3cgFzLE7ZU1NCsPh65_nOAm0c1L3zsMuoX93iQxJd__72s1QAR68PW-DWArWrEror8BsPCz2XfS26DZcXUKEa7CeYOvOJrToXF0AtdHVk/s1280/20220824_115836.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhfrzlwJG704S7h04emD7w2Wnxap0GiV3YkG12zxHHekci3E97UbqvLQdEgxhSXQ86bueZV_Yw8mfvdD3cgFzLE7ZU1NCsPh65_nOAm0c1L3zsMuoX93iQxJd__72s1QAR68PW-DWArWrEror8BsPCz2XfS26DZcXUKEa7CeYOvOJrToXF0AtdHVk/s320/20220824_115836.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBO58EprnFMEk9rEcv2g_pcVaKpyDH3nU4MK4Tc3QnOhokoqxiX3c6Uk5UGaQmCqInI_8zkVpxI7y3n43LuktqFjLs0caELSH4koeek7DtLGL_pldpyrZ1P8UHse5AfNu81vjTP3sBL_WMqM6nU3YjJgZUzonNXyH9i_AlPuUekm-xBQBD7636Yhyh/s1280/20220824_115856.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBO58EprnFMEk9rEcv2g_pcVaKpyDH3nU4MK4Tc3QnOhokoqxiX3c6Uk5UGaQmCqInI_8zkVpxI7y3n43LuktqFjLs0caELSH4koeek7DtLGL_pldpyrZ1P8UHse5AfNu81vjTP3sBL_WMqM6nU3YjJgZUzonNXyH9i_AlPuUekm-xBQBD7636Yhyh/s320/20220824_115856.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">i cocchi presieduti dalle scimmie e il cartello bagno. Caos e arte.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirO5LpNEsDUZqDdNNZiXA2KEK4BlCBZMarYSVD3G3_DcEVp_5IhqS6QKprrdm8duSmtj450zzlyJxA-KGPzI-Pi5dC7Md9UBIeXzKWfqzj0qzWOxtwvBrcm8yaC2wE-J1Z3DdXBOa4YAogEzeWWKzAovCt5YnOIhuYc7DFOsMOWTQzc1QCemXlohq4/s1280/20220824_115903.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirO5LpNEsDUZqDdNNZiXA2KEK4BlCBZMarYSVD3G3_DcEVp_5IhqS6QKprrdm8duSmtj450zzlyJxA-KGPzI-Pi5dC7Md9UBIeXzKWfqzj0qzWOxtwvBrcm8yaC2wE-J1Z3DdXBOa4YAogEzeWWKzAovCt5YnOIhuYc7DFOsMOWTQzc1QCemXlohq4/s320/20220824_115903.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Qui si colloca l'episodio delle api che ho raccontato in apertura. Una volta rimessi in sesto, tutti gonfi (vedi foto) e doloranti, decidiamo di bardarci nuovamente in stile Amazonas, per quanto le precauzioni, fortunatamente, si riveleranno inutili. E' stato un caso sfortunato. La sfiga nera proprio.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqM0tiwlyI7BE7P_8QJd2I4pWiYNioPUdrV-4kW5nLqAQFKhRhX0q-zMbbYg_U4gsjFVJbgYYutmhkBtGHBHZMKO9ruxMY044Y17xVKEjWGRZyZaY5oozhEfc7NnbbkQI6Swbqas5HpyLQk6NEO-uH4C8BXki6GzkDvOBUUutMm9JV3xSuEsDwSUMc/s1280/20220824_124137.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqM0tiwlyI7BE7P_8QJd2I4pWiYNioPUdrV-4kW5nLqAQFKhRhX0q-zMbbYg_U4gsjFVJbgYYutmhkBtGHBHZMKO9ruxMY044Y17xVKEjWGRZyZaY5oozhEfc7NnbbkQI6Swbqas5HpyLQk6NEO-uH4C8BXki6GzkDvOBUUutMm9JV3xSuEsDwSUMc/s320/20220824_124137.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTB8B1c1tYSESZbBohVllbgLw9qbSfsVl72DBmYpQE2PMu71wmp0rl5fmE1jsj0RLlDtDdbBg-wdDJJuD2gMVkSJu3oMpuqRlrmqx9pBJXHK7iB-eEY9UYM7-R-G-0KGzU_tFxRiTSaAr9aZmJaa7x4aLheHSMh9Gt-kO4NWhaiS7wATFik8rzG9N/s1280/20220824_124152.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTB8B1c1tYSESZbBohVllbgLw9qbSfsVl72DBmYpQE2PMu71wmp0rl5fmE1jsj0RLlDtDdbBg-wdDJJuD2gMVkSJu3oMpuqRlrmqx9pBJXHK7iB-eEY9UYM7-R-G-0KGzU_tFxRiTSaAr9aZmJaa7x4aLheHSMh9Gt-kO4NWhaiS7wATFik8rzG9N/s320/20220824_124152.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In due colpi di pedale passiamo dal cartello che segna la "porta" di entrata o, nel nostro caso, uscita, dalla Selva central. Siamo ufficialmente fuori dal bacino amazzonico, e altrettanto ufficialmente dentro alla cordillera (sempre central, naturalmente, altezza di Lima). Forse lo sciame molesto è stato l'ultimo saluto della foresta, che ci ha congedati così. Ciao, neh!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsO7f72hzHNLRs8ZvIFxzkw03HN0y6sXYNTeEfEVma2QEM_h9_PXkd2MEFnG-P8W7V1eDl3U5eVL3AJvVguw3mi29DCJ5ik8BehwV11pVWYDWbeaEE43w6mfG_fZ4njB76xFjZuzcprWWgoBZuCbMiVExtzGg6N0Gk0xmBXQCLMeuXAtQ_lSQ9YfTS/s1280/20220824_124626.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsO7f72hzHNLRs8ZvIFxzkw03HN0y6sXYNTeEfEVma2QEM_h9_PXkd2MEFnG-P8W7V1eDl3U5eVL3AJvVguw3mi29DCJ5ik8BehwV11pVWYDWbeaEE43w6mfG_fZ4njB76xFjZuzcprWWgoBZuCbMiVExtzGg6N0Gk0xmBXQCLMeuXAtQ_lSQ9YfTS/s320/20220824_124626.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKdj05yMUqnnsW9uzzs37WMmX1AVh7yDP_fux3w6XHIJiGbnGqilcYTZtVgw7ydZzLm8KbB5Te6dxVK-9X30Xpn0SlCxvOnOV8Z-eoHwZLbvBYfTbrbGcrSCDBfcAG2epNOTe7CDGWnknJKhiLEiaAIbi-iSUqjrGxtKe7V0dgX5D6bjSi38XbA03/s1280/20220824_124633.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoKdj05yMUqnnsW9uzzs37WMmX1AVh7yDP_fux3w6XHIJiGbnGqilcYTZtVgw7ydZzLm8KbB5Te6dxVK-9X30Xpn0SlCxvOnOV8Z-eoHwZLbvBYfTbrbGcrSCDBfcAG2epNOTe7CDGWnknJKhiLEiaAIbi-iSUqjrGxtKe7V0dgX5D6bjSi38XbA03/s320/20220824_124633.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgh9EG3KJQ_szxJPtEHD__ttzi9KA2zAujNvwvsOqvjVaKwqmtOASj1v6a8dc5nux6h08OazrvYXmmYrkW1vk0uUyKkTq475fkFciLwzKaA131TTSdLA-Nb72fPatl5LDzwS-FzncgMtmeU3sNtD-Af14B33fExgwbK3t-B4gJ6xYLAD0Q3BzlzLLd/s1280/20220824_124648.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgh9EG3KJQ_szxJPtEHD__ttzi9KA2zAujNvwvsOqvjVaKwqmtOASj1v6a8dc5nux6h08OazrvYXmmYrkW1vk0uUyKkTq475fkFciLwzKaA131TTSdLA-Nb72fPatl5LDzwS-FzncgMtmeU3sNtD-Af14B33fExgwbK3t-B4gJ6xYLAD0Q3BzlzLLd/s320/20220824_124648.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Qui la salita inizia a far sul serio. Le rampe diventano più ripide e meno docili da addomesticare. Gli strapiombi sul fiume danno le vertigini.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf22YzQzYeySqk5UqzDFipzJVPyynVliiAgK8aITHTUbT7GpJxyRdrXK_bkaHEb0K5upSU7oNizSdEc799p9mg0P52NPlDWjCn103TftVFfhLdBn-3Vm0QVoq_YNlkGTx0nlcQyGaxghDmuVaPExkCAnuHrFiB0rVLErX8OWGzu0V4JuaPiewNcWWD/s1280/20220824_130127.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf22YzQzYeySqk5UqzDFipzJVPyynVliiAgK8aITHTUbT7GpJxyRdrXK_bkaHEb0K5upSU7oNizSdEc799p9mg0P52NPlDWjCn103TftVFfhLdBn-3Vm0QVoq_YNlkGTx0nlcQyGaxghDmuVaPExkCAnuHrFiB0rVLErX8OWGzu0V4JuaPiewNcWWD/s320/20220824_130127.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVmT1teD4b0HYbokpoq2Rce1gP89cN9o1A653uA8tJ8RIkFg1yD1FJKl-cv5WuU4RH0zZsUW10vfLGbrWqdHrGnMfHyK_ALb7FooH5cZs7dolEAEK3hQ6IJgt8E0md477zhtwsTs-xQTsw1j60c0MzlUUoAjH4tHKbsO0CH38mOaES8SlF_EXGCx3v/s1280/20220824_130227.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVmT1teD4b0HYbokpoq2Rce1gP89cN9o1A653uA8tJ8RIkFg1yD1FJKl-cv5WuU4RH0zZsUW10vfLGbrWqdHrGnMfHyK_ALb7FooH5cZs7dolEAEK3hQ6IJgt8E0md477zhtwsTs-xQTsw1j60c0MzlUUoAjH4tHKbsO0CH38mOaES8SlF_EXGCx3v/s320/20220824_130227.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Passiamo Huacapistana e una valle si chiude, prima che si dischiuda quella successiva.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitzVl4gM_ZeE1NNVf9dOqtdxz-7f7dg64wSq4f_MtoKXiFA5xX-4lDzcl_DnErVcoo8WK2oyCOh77voFxCSBCeTno6rc22DSOvjssd7MPld2rAh1oXazVMLhjtibtbBZdz5wsmAhXTSdNRnarbmf1jvC4XyylXFVr0s40LFFW8W95YfzcD0ecNN_WV/s1280/20220824_131721.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitzVl4gM_ZeE1NNVf9dOqtdxz-7f7dg64wSq4f_MtoKXiFA5xX-4lDzcl_DnErVcoo8WK2oyCOh77voFxCSBCeTno6rc22DSOvjssd7MPld2rAh1oXazVMLhjtibtbBZdz5wsmAhXTSdNRnarbmf1jvC4XyylXFVr0s40LFFW8W95YfzcD0ecNN_WV/s320/20220824_131721.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv-6owxWeO1ONEbrNDeGeozHBTOpLB6vNh-t-gFtR7EoTM2AtFg_c7037TSem6Unp5ygp3ktde-SlJmNGIOllwPFIKIfJY9FsA21kGI1RDJ1sGU62KaMHNzdyGsEXwBmGcOhkpRHVcF9ytqlJuD2oBL3zJD0T6ayINX-5uGHLidiftffLC8XO4KIBh/s1280/20220824_132340.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv-6owxWeO1ONEbrNDeGeozHBTOpLB6vNh-t-gFtR7EoTM2AtFg_c7037TSem6Unp5ygp3ktde-SlJmNGIOllwPFIKIfJY9FsA21kGI1RDJ1sGU62KaMHNzdyGsEXwBmGcOhkpRHVcF9ytqlJuD2oBL3zJD0T6ayINX-5uGHLidiftffLC8XO4KIBh/s320/20220824_132340.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Xnw0kQ7byzHsdtZsgxUe1ftDiRMRTpgz4J6BJvqGahrgTAPrWpjQ0zPQRc_DbFxElvAAgnFC89MNGwn28CnJKtFY82-Y-tp_BK7zxeWRiBoRBV_lJBHDwCVlpfgBgrwNvh7le48491Gao_6Ubx9IhA2l25aLxR_O68X_5I2Pi1ltBnyEvZsV5HLD/s1280/20220824_132504.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Xnw0kQ7byzHsdtZsgxUe1ftDiRMRTpgz4J6BJvqGahrgTAPrWpjQ0zPQRc_DbFxElvAAgnFC89MNGwn28CnJKtFY82-Y-tp_BK7zxeWRiBoRBV_lJBHDwCVlpfgBgrwNvh7le48491Gao_6Ubx9IhA2l25aLxR_O68X_5I2Pi1ltBnyEvZsV5HLD/s320/20220824_132504.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdVtStFC2kVgGYfgK3JdItAG80rju0hli3npaWEJjsy2NRuHH0wjz-yOmSfr9iVPI6ef5gwlv_AVoGlPcPW4KGn-6k6OreoAxV9F81YOKmTkqYweFfdsRmlIl0DTFKAFjcTPSGjFeNX16gW1wrFQ7VHrLbvpPrdSKLKfiChvMRAXTFUo8QbphHXSl/s1280/20220824_132507.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdVtStFC2kVgGYfgK3JdItAG80rju0hli3npaWEJjsy2NRuHH0wjz-yOmSfr9iVPI6ef5gwlv_AVoGlPcPW4KGn-6k6OreoAxV9F81YOKmTkqYweFfdsRmlIl0DTFKAFjcTPSGjFeNX16gW1wrFQ7VHrLbvpPrdSKLKfiChvMRAXTFUo8QbphHXSl/s320/20220824_132507.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2A1MOwKIPtLjWeajZcyIAtk-rnkVkWq16wh8dx76W6I1RpeyCxR4EX7o5N692BAd4iGVdRV6PI-Oc6FBaShbT2Im0fcq7Sa0u59Y2HG30IhLnOZ5gjoJ9OD91EDtsCIjbul6ZoWHLwvIsWPQTGoOMFixAFWqyvuc2rmsPI3kKD1ZfJvLMVkhHeGMx/s1280/20220824_133845.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2A1MOwKIPtLjWeajZcyIAtk-rnkVkWq16wh8dx76W6I1RpeyCxR4EX7o5N692BAd4iGVdRV6PI-Oc6FBaShbT2Im0fcq7Sa0u59Y2HG30IhLnOZ5gjoJ9OD91EDtsCIjbul6ZoWHLwvIsWPQTGoOMFixAFWqyvuc2rmsPI3kKD1ZfJvLMVkhHeGMx/s320/20220824_133845.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJKS8TLs8RUD7rlOmOpmUsIYWuqYm5Xws7c0mP6mlIiDNP7qC3baRAxxmmz0pah4IV09rMr5RH8zvkMNaBcaJG3-2N5P2AaUTpHgbQ0gam_dVnYqtXegz7GNniy8FbVSYfTa47rw9xsNYqZ5BhCFJh0ACj2zKrTxlAPeswrA0-CmIPCbrJKWPWJujs/s1280/20220824_133915.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJKS8TLs8RUD7rlOmOpmUsIYWuqYm5Xws7c0mP6mlIiDNP7qC3baRAxxmmz0pah4IV09rMr5RH8zvkMNaBcaJG3-2N5P2AaUTpHgbQ0gam_dVnYqtXegz7GNniy8FbVSYfTa47rw9xsNYqZ5BhCFJh0ACj2zKrTxlAPeswrA0-CmIPCbrJKWPWJujs/s320/20220824_133915.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I tornanti e le gallerie consentono di guadagnare quota in fretta, sempre più immersi in un paesaggio montano che si fa spoglio ed essenziale, nudo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbF9mMmqWnBqHOMTZlCguS4Yu2ylNODb90jXrn2Fk7uQzO_qed9F7s9tNW5o0Kjct-hkc6bIVq8TA4B3CB4HC6htu7qQ1wGhq-ux4nw5Di0ZBZZw-WzGfMNGC4ItNw0aV-pyfLWitLpoFVX1eNtGhaQwAXb3G8LAox3DsirJwp-huKYUdMSQFHNHUr/s1280/20220824_134051.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbF9mMmqWnBqHOMTZlCguS4Yu2ylNODb90jXrn2Fk7uQzO_qed9F7s9tNW5o0Kjct-hkc6bIVq8TA4B3CB4HC6htu7qQ1wGhq-ux4nw5Di0ZBZZw-WzGfMNGC4ItNw0aV-pyfLWitLpoFVX1eNtGhaQwAXb3G8LAox3DsirJwp-huKYUdMSQFHNHUr/s320/20220824_134051.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFjqDGZ8VC9KndqaHGotDG_cmGn2shySZrxLNFfJQoHFaVHi7mwfNcOW42KLm5uxFXAxu36KkVLxh4bYqz9QW-32_VaHnwxnT_6xyuuKq0KcWfbHzKuW9amGN7Wns0afjKp5EVeDSB_vSXS_BZZZbeG1VstHPSu3gzFByR6wSHd0tUi4ql0bhNY4f/s1280/20220824_134106.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrFjqDGZ8VC9KndqaHGotDG_cmGn2shySZrxLNFfJQoHFaVHi7mwfNcOW42KLm5uxFXAxu36KkVLxh4bYqz9QW-32_VaHnwxnT_6xyuuKq0KcWfbHzKuW9amGN7Wns0afjKp5EVeDSB_vSXS_BZZZbeG1VstHPSu3gzFByR6wSHd0tUi4ql0bhNY4f/s320/20220824_134106.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDyGEvP-5GVd1hJH2K59q_HT-7fojHGlZz5zNbvc2g7KVQUVnPTxPunIyLKzuBFYi40qeJ5zR3A_oei0dBdjeEr9ITdY4C2cMRRm4j15_a0SV2ZH2y4Z280EiLLqOJ44rrM4-yPBgHwcDHNkUuRvlD5hi5LyK08ZBRFMF85u2NLEtDiRWdL058uoz6/s1280/20220824_134640.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDyGEvP-5GVd1hJH2K59q_HT-7fojHGlZz5zNbvc2g7KVQUVnPTxPunIyLKzuBFYi40qeJ5zR3A_oei0dBdjeEr9ITdY4C2cMRRm4j15_a0SV2ZH2y4Z280EiLLqOJ44rrM4-yPBgHwcDHNkUuRvlD5hi5LyK08ZBRFMF85u2NLEtDiRWdL058uoz6/s320/20220824_134640.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj2Z1lbN7lkajDcx52cMCodjPjWoR8aON3d-HnnMoqbLYQ-vkPKBafFOtgg2JPuR3908Th0cNGv4E-h1dhuQIT8KZHKUyoII5dTB0ST1HRdojPCBd892taH8wufNdlEXmVhruHruNQO72JT9xCbwiKJcG_6lQM6SsAuDGseiI9BU3jR2ZfTTdaO2aO/s1280/20220824_135852.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj2Z1lbN7lkajDcx52cMCodjPjWoR8aON3d-HnnMoqbLYQ-vkPKBafFOtgg2JPuR3908Th0cNGv4E-h1dhuQIT8KZHKUyoII5dTB0ST1HRdojPCBd892taH8wufNdlEXmVhruHruNQO72JT9xCbwiKJcG_6lQM6SsAuDGseiI9BU3jR2ZfTTdaO2aO/s320/20220824_135852.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimAggUbKb1J5iUQ5nqUaqhKICE6HAePWgcVpjnUKNXLdUmfmcxcNrm_eHS44OwugMnOG03h2FFx05BJIBbPvgnWn2dLHXbcAEn0nO0VQFZYacjAb63JbdC-5y_xIGhgQ5YO0CVh86MUJFUO--otUmGQrDz2tauZPnnQDLVFlQjqRzUb87I0KawxbuK/s1280/20220824_135900.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimAggUbKb1J5iUQ5nqUaqhKICE6HAePWgcVpjnUKNXLdUmfmcxcNrm_eHS44OwugMnOG03h2FFx05BJIBbPvgnWn2dLHXbcAEn0nO0VQFZYacjAb63JbdC-5y_xIGhgQ5YO0CVh86MUJFUO--otUmGQrDz2tauZPnnQDLVFlQjqRzUb87I0KawxbuK/s320/20220824_135900.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tiriamo dritti. Le punture delle api iniziano a pulsare e dolere meno, i cani sono più rari perchè non ci sono baracche abitate. Le gambe girano e il fiato corre rapido come il fiume. Siamo in forma, siamo informi, nel senso bello del termine, un tutt'uno con la roccia, il vento, la luce e le nubi alte. Anche Gigi tiene botta alla grande e spinge sui pedali con decisione. Qui in assetto antisommossa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEGeuHfWsjXUn1KeNcSSOXjzDGTe_jLwhB7EqW5Uh2qLI6t4iXa-N3GArbQOFIVn4dYhmXq0zMlpYy11suc1xlpd3c5Pqu7REWWDD8so91lsRPTrfTKxeDxPyB8fOzACjsQMvP851FmZniqcDvzPtklc9rLCJ8vz9uRGfXeVUn5uPdahOHsagyhDK8/s1280/20220824_140150.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEGeuHfWsjXUn1KeNcSSOXjzDGTe_jLwhB7EqW5Uh2qLI6t4iXa-N3GArbQOFIVn4dYhmXq0zMlpYy11suc1xlpd3c5Pqu7REWWDD8so91lsRPTrfTKxeDxPyB8fOzACjsQMvP851FmZniqcDvzPtklc9rLCJ8vz9uRGfXeVUn5uPdahOHsagyhDK8/s320/20220824_140150.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ij9dHg1uuOuD064LYMCVEXu_YR8Az58tpIh2TamLZJXN58eP4r7tTzBeqqEz-vm-2vyPmmxv_Gw3tCO-HbdVWNDdT4t2L8s8B25fovqDw9_R4cWQHF9NJTGGmnRTuwhE0bgVfjzu55lB-WNrigqcCqV-Y58jd2-yJHTezKgK4PN6i5Tbty0ObFbd/s1280/IMG-20220824-WA0004.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ij9dHg1uuOuD064LYMCVEXu_YR8Az58tpIh2TamLZJXN58eP4r7tTzBeqqEz-vm-2vyPmmxv_Gw3tCO-HbdVWNDdT4t2L8s8B25fovqDw9_R4cWQHF9NJTGGmnRTuwhE0bgVfjzu55lB-WNrigqcCqV-Y58jd2-yJHTezKgK4PN6i5Tbty0ObFbd/s320/IMG-20220824-WA0004.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX-BWOsCDv2PdPBQk0aeOWVT7dz9n4dMh41FU_jpFIx-V5a9bOzBk-SspCgfVeHWwBH6bFe5JoANcJwl2UzH_s5IFLDEoCJiqM8gPPTwvlirEoFp1s89XIyRV2x7gYkXmy3GGY735TJD-TTlI062tul-3hnvB5Ai_eC0jjrVc_GIeFj6xYlwYRn7c7/s1280/20220824_140519.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX-BWOsCDv2PdPBQk0aeOWVT7dz9n4dMh41FU_jpFIx-V5a9bOzBk-SspCgfVeHWwBH6bFe5JoANcJwl2UzH_s5IFLDEoCJiqM8gPPTwvlirEoFp1s89XIyRV2x7gYkXmy3GGY735TJD-TTlI062tul-3hnvB5Ai_eC0jjrVc_GIeFj6xYlwYRn7c7/s320/20220824_140519.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyO80Ol0RlSyTVhkHCbq-IHevub8V0dA2WZyrsrJz3y5ABI5ii4LnM5_RiAJej-zCavsZMUiVhyG039hdwQ6L5f2ftCq2w1B1BsLw76wb_CHLakz2uiinWoSmsWDqdKgali4fU9oWtm0FK_5_gK8gdwiocc7tiyVAnxFxTV1ZwINEk0TFeILSb20e/s1280/20220824_140531.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyO80Ol0RlSyTVhkHCbq-IHevub8V0dA2WZyrsrJz3y5ABI5ii4LnM5_RiAJej-zCavsZMUiVhyG039hdwQ6L5f2ftCq2w1B1BsLw76wb_CHLakz2uiinWoSmsWDqdKgali4fU9oWtm0FK_5_gK8gdwiocc7tiyVAnxFxTV1ZwINEk0TFeILSb20e/s320/20220824_140531.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BSmV7ZfK0Zd6BOLv_4D4bOFEug5uWUGErOOT7xrTGPZIuSFn3b3d20b2zPjRWgt3BVgTHpmsq2yQ3KvacpkWXAwN4WRLbpCgmo78dxtXesTR0ttn1hjid9rM6KcJ9EfjMxmbhonYib-IBPkA6WpsFDbKgoowsYeR_rWXlQVoF2n7kl7IDHq08fqE/s1280/20220824_141022.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BSmV7ZfK0Zd6BOLv_4D4bOFEug5uWUGErOOT7xrTGPZIuSFn3b3d20b2zPjRWgt3BVgTHpmsq2yQ3KvacpkWXAwN4WRLbpCgmo78dxtXesTR0ttn1hjid9rM6KcJ9EfjMxmbhonYib-IBPkA6WpsFDbKgoowsYeR_rWXlQVoF2n7kl7IDHq08fqE/s320/20220824_141022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz9bCxKG4boRksI91ZJawd0cVtX-uqEBKEIZy65sPI9z-bN6G31HAaAK0Nhx7J-7AZgiWs110EdI6VU5UxKQL4QS84YR0A-9dQjBfdAmjy9Mh-gNZgnpeXk3QNFboBEcmmKRhd7ObiNWXlbf18ml4thv3IPUXn9Gt7q3yfdZhXsJTxJymk_3ZyQd99/s1280/20220824_141046.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz9bCxKG4boRksI91ZJawd0cVtX-uqEBKEIZy65sPI9z-bN6G31HAaAK0Nhx7J-7AZgiWs110EdI6VU5UxKQL4QS84YR0A-9dQjBfdAmjy9Mh-gNZgnpeXk3QNFboBEcmmKRhd7ObiNWXlbf18ml4thv3IPUXn9Gt7q3yfdZhXsJTxJymk_3ZyQd99/s320/20220824_141046.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A Carpapata iniziano i tornanti lunghi e stretti come una biscia d'acqua; li seguiamo, per poi fare una sosta "in centro", rifocillarci e fare un cambio d'abito. E' tempo di metter via i vestiti leggeri della giungla e di indossare di nuovo quelli invernali della montagna. Il vento è freddo e l'aria si è fatta leggera, frizzante, non più densa, umida e afosa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGINBqUI52k_rNGpB4avuWhZfKHZvgJBl4oCCllBRkE2kyCZiqRBma95bA4rELMORoOMTG0zjbTmdk7eZ2s0yQM-6p979RyWirFlQR4zLFdirxYQjhuKaxibJbka62VuIz7vi8C345naJ5z-9tDhd9xT4pRGnDZ52fkT_RaEpIrcFqO1R0PXeU2F9/s1280/20220824_141109.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGINBqUI52k_rNGpB4avuWhZfKHZvgJBl4oCCllBRkE2kyCZiqRBma95bA4rELMORoOMTG0zjbTmdk7eZ2s0yQM-6p979RyWirFlQR4zLFdirxYQjhuKaxibJbka62VuIz7vi8C345naJ5z-9tDhd9xT4pRGnDZ52fkT_RaEpIrcFqO1R0PXeU2F9/s320/20220824_141109.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3GAv7Ra_T7TdTBXCHr80fT6KA_F3teBbvPuaA_XpLNDpRU3hhr9EVaJ23VELuKKJS7s0U60uYwx5AT1eT8emh5ApzdoBU3b3hDxvU1CB9kFx7XIccc9oJfh9FXiaP7ss0T9C8PcR05uMVnv_msDQ_9yuBOs5KfR_3v9BUEQVQrTfe5CgSjo9Qeaz/s1280/20220824_142801.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3GAv7Ra_T7TdTBXCHr80fT6KA_F3teBbvPuaA_XpLNDpRU3hhr9EVaJ23VELuKKJS7s0U60uYwx5AT1eT8emh5ApzdoBU3b3hDxvU1CB9kFx7XIccc9oJfh9FXiaP7ss0T9C8PcR05uMVnv_msDQ_9yuBOs5KfR_3v9BUEQVQrTfe5CgSjo9Qeaz/s320/20220824_142801.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT23S_GfnMOGPgKcO6qlLYEfQDMi5FN4k8zgjEwDa--m6axvbAseTCAYs5MYoT_AN564FMASxLyv6hCwYROwWRfILqFwcI0C3kAisKjyF5emZ5eRxHu6ymURiQKpzeaobQZ_6_JxAYYqB49-fgVV99jNY49ryA-FZJnVpBuzI0Es8Ni9jAfXeCOAvo/s1280/20220824_142806.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT23S_GfnMOGPgKcO6qlLYEfQDMi5FN4k8zgjEwDa--m6axvbAseTCAYs5MYoT_AN564FMASxLyv6hCwYROwWRfILqFwcI0C3kAisKjyF5emZ5eRxHu6ymURiQKpzeaobQZ_6_JxAYYqB49-fgVV99jNY49ryA-FZJnVpBuzI0Es8Ni9jAfXeCOAvo/s320/20220824_142806.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDRg9qAl_KGwBm563ef5DsKDlV8lMqcEgwOdOXDk8Af5j-oLK9FN0CByvQ4ztO7qesZ2xh63aATsgx9t95qnVt_8PL63MYd3HbMsWwxKCJEyzw1b4BlCY1zy3iB3_2dqEczE85vjvr0fP-xT3YIRCmXKwFeuWQv-qf5Plp7FNn-ZT21RHzG5Lridqn/s1280/20220824_142812.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDRg9qAl_KGwBm563ef5DsKDlV8lMqcEgwOdOXDk8Af5j-oLK9FN0CByvQ4ztO7qesZ2xh63aATsgx9t95qnVt_8PL63MYd3HbMsWwxKCJEyzw1b4BlCY1zy3iB3_2dqEczE85vjvr0fP-xT3YIRCmXKwFeuWQv-qf5Plp7FNn-ZT21RHzG5Lridqn/s320/20220824_142812.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIIOcQWiwmpp7C7PbEISFIYWjmxhoW0bGKg_x5eZRwQgGUqGRr8L19GDkB-cBfsBX-XdhOlKuz0dMEPOeXkSRoOiJO1z-Xk79sj-I4X692-0sQ3cVXcPNkufak6m8pVYY29s3hjgb-eGr2h6SfA-UhqL1jc7Hs9cfcKRvKwP9jloYc6m-p9FYj2ERL/s1280/20220824_143035.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIIOcQWiwmpp7C7PbEISFIYWjmxhoW0bGKg_x5eZRwQgGUqGRr8L19GDkB-cBfsBX-XdhOlKuz0dMEPOeXkSRoOiJO1z-Xk79sj-I4X692-0sQ3cVXcPNkufak6m8pVYY29s3hjgb-eGr2h6SfA-UhqL1jc7Hs9cfcKRvKwP9jloYc6m-p9FYj2ERL/s320/20220824_143035.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chips di platano e faccia punzecchiata</td></tr></tbody></table><br />Ripartiamo per l'ultimo tratto di 15km. Salendo si vede la strada appena percorsa, e dell'alto dà misura di quanto ci si stia addentrando nel ventre dei monti lungo le loro budella d'asfalto.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRPl2TrgIxnFWSFTIVLg3U8hGISirdIrvszad2NLLgDGFAh_DcX2F91l1Sqoj9-Ej5XwTrWvM0FV1-Zfk9XL-Xo93HnSznIeqbp1rvNxkkrLK2PCL5K2lN4ZqDD4-QSedkxtPx1lM1tMLcrp_KqeHRJCF_Ov3O9P4HIcgQ5EONmUAn8p6lPRZve8X4/s1280/20220824_151410.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRPl2TrgIxnFWSFTIVLg3U8hGISirdIrvszad2NLLgDGFAh_DcX2F91l1Sqoj9-Ej5XwTrWvM0FV1-Zfk9XL-Xo93HnSznIeqbp1rvNxkkrLK2PCL5K2lN4ZqDD4-QSedkxtPx1lM1tMLcrp_KqeHRJCF_Ov3O9P4HIcgQ5EONmUAn8p6lPRZve8X4/s320/20220824_151410.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCmBrCFZ9F7VGxDJSH-Po6_Y5NyLgPLmDuYizzuYl5Ej4j9KbO9_zFckU-llxSbapH6pGDJRl4d0sji_mGj8AnerhsLKocOPrI7OIanmWeW5yg0-f_WDT9s0GaW4ph0B4TECN-kCcREoy0Df03b2m_EHPaExdK5NlgMvoJ_hXWTTfRofI_cAFKEoz0/s1280/20220824_151415.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCmBrCFZ9F7VGxDJSH-Po6_Y5NyLgPLmDuYizzuYl5Ej4j9KbO9_zFckU-llxSbapH6pGDJRl4d0sji_mGj8AnerhsLKocOPrI7OIanmWeW5yg0-f_WDT9s0GaW4ph0B4TECN-kCcREoy0Df03b2m_EHPaExdK5NlgMvoJ_hXWTTfRofI_cAFKEoz0/s320/20220824_151415.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg489QNd1lP9-bbSLwq5r0_l_3GCgKLGd4D75EAESF3_0pqj9ygBMpDEw-Io3mReu3m64XztUnmLhY57iPP5dAlBaLis1U-1P0WuEdOIhmUPqbdavO1vhIOSJMOzRFLaPZsayqBCbxYOYxwhk7CYuB-rHBFnn3qbcx6vWtSjkg9J5lx3dCbQ3dQBp7b/s1280/20220824_151647.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg489QNd1lP9-bbSLwq5r0_l_3GCgKLGd4D75EAESF3_0pqj9ygBMpDEw-Io3mReu3m64XztUnmLhY57iPP5dAlBaLis1U-1P0WuEdOIhmUPqbdavO1vhIOSJMOzRFLaPZsayqBCbxYOYxwhk7CYuB-rHBFnn3qbcx6vWtSjkg9J5lx3dCbQ3dQBp7b/s320/20220824_151647.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4D9hpq1DuPZUHfZ6ZDf-nA7pX4frRYOcmOOMhh2Unt76huq70wdqGn21Z88m5T__GzxUS_BEcnq8DiwfiA0TL6ZaIEEA7HFXpPZtJuuyX7fP2WuPL6ZVEC5vBl6Mbm-PtYHmstCcLq_ExTTHXFRc1RfWQwQc8xFRSvy1zWwnEsmnqJUiYpsbHZZY/s1280/20220824_151657.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4D9hpq1DuPZUHfZ6ZDf-nA7pX4frRYOcmOOMhh2Unt76huq70wdqGn21Z88m5T__GzxUS_BEcnq8DiwfiA0TL6ZaIEEA7HFXpPZtJuuyX7fP2WuPL6ZVEC5vBl6Mbm-PtYHmstCcLq_ExTTHXFRc1RfWQwQc8xFRSvy1zWwnEsmnqJUiYpsbHZZY/s320/20220824_151657.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHglb3PsAP-dyzagzp3HgV2YsgUUU3BHjSgRcueKnLEGO7Yx1uhRjcUuGIVt8652t-P4K0lwVwv753tk8tVO3J1dhmuYrpGbsF1tnrM8lWa8AIiMAKBwZsmXonpm9MlADOgO_MvODKLjqxotCS960tG6EQndbDx9Ov8_lc7Mh7M_u37eckKVvrkVWE/s1280/20220824_151917.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHglb3PsAP-dyzagzp3HgV2YsgUUU3BHjSgRcueKnLEGO7Yx1uhRjcUuGIVt8652t-P4K0lwVwv753tk8tVO3J1dhmuYrpGbsF1tnrM8lWa8AIiMAKBwZsmXonpm9MlADOgO_MvODKLjqxotCS960tG6EQndbDx9Ov8_lc7Mh7M_u37eckKVvrkVWE/s320/20220824_151917.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Con una galleria e un ponte ci portiamo sull'altra sponda del fiume, e ormai manca poco alla meta. La soddisfazione di aver già alle spalle il grosso della salita e il desiderio di arrivare e riposare ci fanno spingere sui pedali più di prima, anche perchè da qui si sale in falsopiano e il vento è a favore e ci aiuta, generoso come mai finora.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfjzS1r0b8BL8B3PJQHZGuFBl-b21OSTqHCs7JOQ49b--AulGcU8QN6J1Zn53iVzk_4B3qWYe6Xn877JKKrdS3YPZuRrtA9CFhu2AQK89R95VobeK8SA07z6I35-LHZpO4JWFlaUpgrGD5E2EykfPVZTdjn58x8j7hh-ZDKhcj9kF6Mw8oWh4_sdbu/s1280/20220824_152819.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfjzS1r0b8BL8B3PJQHZGuFBl-b21OSTqHCs7JOQ49b--AulGcU8QN6J1Zn53iVzk_4B3qWYe6Xn877JKKrdS3YPZuRrtA9CFhu2AQK89R95VobeK8SA07z6I35-LHZpO4JWFlaUpgrGD5E2EykfPVZTdjn58x8j7hh-ZDKhcj9kF6Mw8oWh4_sdbu/s320/20220824_152819.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81adJLrLZWOXcoAvVixQHm9W7q43eYkNDnHZqBd_55cwN1c4dPZmloS3ku3gJZ21kFnNxMYDgnn8II7iyttECX68WIcP6ELoOwqCvqLmfA_Fc5chmuv2e92Y43syb5KxBBATjZF1iNB-xCwuMnnc1g2ZcKdht2dqlWQh93EY9SkCXndvvLjMGMRha/s1280/20220824_153319.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81adJLrLZWOXcoAvVixQHm9W7q43eYkNDnHZqBd_55cwN1c4dPZmloS3ku3gJZ21kFnNxMYDgnn8II7iyttECX68WIcP6ELoOwqCvqLmfA_Fc5chmuv2e92Y43syb5KxBBATjZF1iNB-xCwuMnnc1g2ZcKdht2dqlWQh93EY9SkCXndvvLjMGMRha/s320/20220824_153319.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Anche qui ci sono casupole e baracche abitate più da galline e perri che da cristiani. Il fiume è poco più che un torrente e corre ora vicino alla strada, sfruttato per irrigare campi obliqui e in pendenza assurda.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBbgfrvI13kLjq2hpRNJAyKFwJhOqAnIlbr0TsGarY4KXYwmw0-xpQTZ0yG78PnrUlrshL-r8ezfNku0CkSvS4_BEhMEqRuj7syHo_YM_7UvJUMlnJ8-FDKmoiWKGXXd2jnLGMXnPLmgiNZ8RPJ8gac5m8dd1D9evj0Rw-4dKj-pKWhCjmCpkeyw-/s1280/20220824_154018.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBbgfrvI13kLjq2hpRNJAyKFwJhOqAnIlbr0TsGarY4KXYwmw0-xpQTZ0yG78PnrUlrshL-r8ezfNku0CkSvS4_BEhMEqRuj7syHo_YM_7UvJUMlnJ8-FDKmoiWKGXXd2jnLGMXnPLmgiNZ8RPJ8gac5m8dd1D9evj0Rw-4dKj-pKWhCjmCpkeyw-/s320/20220824_154018.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsrlj1PYFZPN-MpUA_OcGhBQiaas_V3GUszKZSxqd5D11rlW7ZMOI-Y4Db1L9vMNoN8B7hOzmcxN55a8pdPPXldVGDVu2xHZmkSjT273zoxaJ26mdn00WPzu0KHcrofhKumu34yecgFOcyoqA66AFbjdt6XRSCHp6Y-joZT_pk605RgQ3DXE8aPkCj/s1280/20220824_154026.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsrlj1PYFZPN-MpUA_OcGhBQiaas_V3GUszKZSxqd5D11rlW7ZMOI-Y4Db1L9vMNoN8B7hOzmcxN55a8pdPPXldVGDVu2xHZmkSjT273zoxaJ26mdn00WPzu0KHcrofhKumu34yecgFOcyoqA66AFbjdt6XRSCHp6Y-joZT_pk605RgQ3DXE8aPkCj/s320/20220824_154026.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio7gpBi0SmQ6EheBlmoSkoU5ObZ9H3z-yMqvA8DI1e5CRNxRRyrqnCguzozNiM83b9Snv-fppgNrgMUyahS9tQOAENAdeQ_cGdAD329F9JNhsXPDE3ri7d3NjAANT9s56H-K3gDcvG-gdP3Hugwy2X90UbPfiWHcWufSvzCLB7m6_yK-kdmkjzB4M6/s1280/20220824_154945.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio7gpBi0SmQ6EheBlmoSkoU5ObZ9H3z-yMqvA8DI1e5CRNxRRyrqnCguzozNiM83b9Snv-fppgNrgMUyahS9tQOAENAdeQ_cGdAD329F9JNhsXPDE3ri7d3NjAANT9s56H-K3gDcvG-gdP3Hugwy2X90UbPfiWHcWufSvzCLB7m6_yK-kdmkjzB4M6/s320/20220824_154945.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnh3hlLFuJVLhiK5CK-Q901MQ4JY7fAfbwARYC8uGLyYbc7L4e5WL0-kHwH5nWGEL8wnHd1O8_GT3rLHDW9PrpHqPygNqvW_tQwDXs4nR4gW61hRsDbBL7pyZc3wPK0sX0Z5PtffYc84_T_uR55_Hoq8-RAWwx1MSBYLgejgDa6Pu-TUKxbuFdtnO3/s1280/20220824_161244.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnh3hlLFuJVLhiK5CK-Q901MQ4JY7fAfbwARYC8uGLyYbc7L4e5WL0-kHwH5nWGEL8wnHd1O8_GT3rLHDW9PrpHqPygNqvW_tQwDXs4nR4gW61hRsDbBL7pyZc3wPK0sX0Z5PtffYc84_T_uR55_Hoq8-RAWwx1MSBYLgejgDa6Pu-TUKxbuFdtnO3/s320/20220824_161244.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiav9R0EzoF8-w1vgK1xTM1oLwKNDn74-D-SrG2yK72vO1M_J9UN1IVr0qkqJBWZWHLghJo5cq-X3uFUkxxz-kyPh6KvX2hyljrfra0WNCF-ipQ4UR4_FDDWHV6jS65Wh1QCC5YUsR7RBac82hao7q6_an_7LeTE_YTiR2BOqvEEq3WfrBNovsX_CNU/s1280/20220824_161842.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiav9R0EzoF8-w1vgK1xTM1oLwKNDn74-D-SrG2yK72vO1M_J9UN1IVr0qkqJBWZWHLghJo5cq-X3uFUkxxz-kyPh6KvX2hyljrfra0WNCF-ipQ4UR4_FDDWHV6jS65Wh1QCC5YUsR7RBac82hao7q6_an_7LeTE_YTiR2BOqvEEq3WfrBNovsX_CNU/s320/20220824_161842.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdhfUxHvmEOeHbHV37FpZRutdhtsMLmPW0SDtdpS2d0yihnhH5L4WnZ7MDnZZ1MnXps8DcRgQ8IwGsCbfwcZaxy1k89XVdXWXRbZbDcjKQA0MLj-SFu0Snrbrm-zLdJw-92LRfN6R2cbri2JFs9YraR9j4vLNsvCmVAod52uTvmrC2NNqDSp3-Iqt/s1280/20220824_161846.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdhfUxHvmEOeHbHV37FpZRutdhtsMLmPW0SDtdpS2d0yihnhH5L4WnZ7MDnZZ1MnXps8DcRgQ8IwGsCbfwcZaxy1k89XVdXWXRbZbDcjKQA0MLj-SFu0Snrbrm-zLdJw-92LRfN6R2cbri2JFs9YraR9j4vLNsvCmVAod52uTvmrC2NNqDSp3-Iqt/s320/20220824_161846.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Poi eccoci, finalmente, alla meta. Palca, nella regione di Junin, la prima città dopo San Ramon. Era un forte utilizzato dalla gente della sierra come avamposto per la colonizzazione della selva, nel XIX secolo. Qui infatti non è territorio ashaninka, era l'ultimo porto sicuro prima dell'oceanico verde costellato di insidie, frecce avvelenate e animali pericolosi. Oggi è un borgo piuttosto macilento e cadente, ma con i servizi essenziali e qualche scorcio interessante.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5oBr3zcg4_OdG7e4gRNTWmIAhj5itQtb0-2VzWmcLBp13utnqQumCGhBAz8A7utC1DhZ1n0a2Wa5kkJYA1iPIX-0MkvEksxDO4Ra1H9HTVtMLPBBCdcThLTkW8qRfL-VFc9L0uwfMfWvUi0fc7TBJB0L-2exxfHRL1oQ1K5hKt-avycGrGBWxwAl/s1280/20220824_162535.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5oBr3zcg4_OdG7e4gRNTWmIAhj5itQtb0-2VzWmcLBp13utnqQumCGhBAz8A7utC1DhZ1n0a2Wa5kkJYA1iPIX-0MkvEksxDO4Ra1H9HTVtMLPBBCdcThLTkW8qRfL-VFc9L0uwfMfWvUi0fc7TBJB0L-2exxfHRL1oQ1K5hKt-avycGrGBWxwAl/s320/20220824_162535.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWMeSSQpW9jSdZLxsH9-cO2C8fRcp0Y4Hywik3j5d0B-ji-MsXSZm0qcCzAMha7pb6m4Wese_CRosq_1pKaU1UztHg9ivOhrwBE3avN_C0rJDXKi7af5awIvy_L7-s7X9NzYup_30ej9Lc3jGnoxorKXFRLcondLO774N2tVI9WwZ9wDWsdD6CnJC/s1280/20220824_163311.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWMeSSQpW9jSdZLxsH9-cO2C8fRcp0Y4Hywik3j5d0B-ji-MsXSZm0qcCzAMha7pb6m4Wese_CRosq_1pKaU1UztHg9ivOhrwBE3avN_C0rJDXKi7af5awIvy_L7-s7X9NzYup_30ej9Lc3jGnoxorKXFRLcondLO774N2tVI9WwZ9wDWsdD6CnJC/s320/20220824_163311.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6vNv8ocChDFKLYZAYUr5gAi6SykZfD0LgmB3aqiLm84MBsr6_YsuZctT0ZzISIPwbmGyrrHUhHJgbCtTxh75-LyGj10wAeIAq_3Xk4ey36P9GuPpp0GPHYFHs9Gzdjxk3r5wAWbEtAt3leKyP6xpG9eLfXgtttGXzJnKLgjfPFdR5jz_fhpjM8Te/s1280/20220824_163314.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6vNv8ocChDFKLYZAYUr5gAi6SykZfD0LgmB3aqiLm84MBsr6_YsuZctT0ZzISIPwbmGyrrHUhHJgbCtTxh75-LyGj10wAeIAq_3Xk4ey36P9GuPpp0GPHYFHs9Gzdjxk3r5wAWbEtAt3leKyP6xpG9eLfXgtttGXzJnKLgjfPFdR5jz_fhpjM8Te/s320/20220824_163314.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prendiamo alloggio nell'hostal El torero, tutto a tema corrida, con foto di azioni sanguinolente in ogni camera e corridoio. Incredibilmente macabro. Ma la scelta si riduce a zero e qui siamo di fronte alla plaza de toros, quindi ha senso. Per 40 soles (10 euro) si prende una camera con due letti matrimoniali. Il bagno è al piano ma ha l'acqua e la doccia è persino tiepida. Il che fa solo piacere, visto che le temperature, di sera, non sono più quelle dei giorni scorsi. Siamo pur sempre a 2700m.</div><div>Domani faremo tappa brevis, 20km (tutti di salita, sempre) fino a Tarma. "Siamo tornati sulla guida turistica". Sono di nuovo zone e città visitabili, con un centro storico, monumenti e siti archeologici. Quindi ne approfitteremo per riposare e goderci un fugace momento di ritorno alla civiltà, prima degli ultimi strappi d'altura.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Giovedì, 25/8</div><div>Palca-Tarma (3080m)</div><div>22km</div><div><br /></div><div>Notte d'inferno. Dissenteria, nausea, fitte e bruciori dall'inizio alla fine del tubo digerente. Non si dorme. Il bagno è al piano, finisce la carta igienica. Sto male.</div><div>Questa mattina mi sveglio sversa e ribaltata per la debolezza, ma l'antibiotico lavora e argina il proliferare dei batteri che non mi mollano da giorni. Facciamo colazione con il fornello sul comodino, camomilla zuccherata e biscotti secchi simili ai Nic Nac, ma con gli animali local.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmvqnIhJdovI7T0xMRL7yNtjkcd3fYuaGR-ozQy6QhCe5F4fFGLdGxniCOnEIATYg2e74iwQWWNlJ7xS4LUVAKYMISqismITjMYLbD71QHgId5DtidAd5_9WSpgmkSt5TOOr4qsFRAMoaTKVDjHMRASXRHEaOFoE_Z7owskS_tEGqGuvf2lDCWcZ3B/s1280/20220825_083509.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmvqnIhJdovI7T0xMRL7yNtjkcd3fYuaGR-ozQy6QhCe5F4fFGLdGxniCOnEIATYg2e74iwQWWNlJ7xS4LUVAKYMISqismITjMYLbD71QHgId5DtidAd5_9WSpgmkSt5TOOr4qsFRAMoaTKVDjHMRASXRHEaOFoE_Z7owskS_tEGqGuvf2lDCWcZ3B/s320/20220825_083509.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK7S8xs4NLz3JnyekglZrr39ApIhFCIyLrCl0EK1zKi7kxS46JZVSXtJYvaeroWp60e3t1ZHLuu3b5k1xfycJwRKLClE3srAmrzdJmHKs-Qu37t7CDRSQw6TWwxXH1CEOqMpN-x4yR6h_0eZVOHXwC6_oZ603BzNoQVNk-uvydxhZ2iqkGETYla8Lh/s1280/20220825_083518.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK7S8xs4NLz3JnyekglZrr39ApIhFCIyLrCl0EK1zKi7kxS46JZVSXtJYvaeroWp60e3t1ZHLuu3b5k1xfycJwRKLClE3srAmrzdJmHKs-Qu37t7CDRSQw6TWwxXH1CEOqMpN-x4yR6h_0eZVOHXwC6_oZ603BzNoQVNk-uvydxhZ2iqkGETYla8Lh/s320/20220825_083518.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Essendo tappa breve, ci mettiamo in strada con calma, anche perchè io sto a mala pena in piedi. Il movimento, l'aria frizzante e il sole mi fanno bene e pian piano riprendo coscienza di me e del mondo. La valle del Tarma splende di luce chiara ed è un tripudio di verdi, chiari e scuri, ma addomesticati. Qui è zona agricola.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHGtwAYm6HVb32ztkoY6iiuqzJGbQI39WUnGOVlCNJpshEdEBvXy0_5iXboi2r6F4-SWVQ_EF21L_UC-5nhKJ5fl_gI4epFhDmRsdBk6dz3lxG78VLFvrJHc51CWcPKFquyFFk5dAbUuGcgb-1lYY4bOIHgfsX8oywVEoO0XNsjDU2Y46wigR9bQpx/s1280/20220825_095129.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHGtwAYm6HVb32ztkoY6iiuqzJGbQI39WUnGOVlCNJpshEdEBvXy0_5iXboi2r6F4-SWVQ_EF21L_UC-5nhKJ5fl_gI4epFhDmRsdBk6dz3lxG78VLFvrJHc51CWcPKFquyFFk5dAbUuGcgb-1lYY4bOIHgfsX8oywVEoO0XNsjDU2Y46wigR9bQpx/s320/20220825_095129.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7v8KEp4uTH5oh_FECJJ-kME_gp5s4JJpEtlY-Blq5A9IICWiVScKPl82CBL0mmQuVK5FFsQZnanZ7z9vC9MuoL2zWPtsF2AmaxWN7tFv6j_gbdKVquZLedE_RFDk6wzRXQalHsgcd8yOV39lg-R9JM1bMFap_v3Fu3pxZpt0-G4fVwk0S0DVD4lht/s1280/20220825_095133.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7v8KEp4uTH5oh_FECJJ-kME_gp5s4JJpEtlY-Blq5A9IICWiVScKPl82CBL0mmQuVK5FFsQZnanZ7z9vC9MuoL2zWPtsF2AmaxWN7tFv6j_gbdKVquZLedE_RFDk6wzRXQalHsgcd8yOV39lg-R9JM1bMFap_v3Fu3pxZpt0-G4fVwk0S0DVD4lht/s320/20220825_095133.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Uscendo dal paese ci diamo ancor più ragione dell'hotel El torero, a tema corrida, in cui abbiamo soggiornato. Poco oltre c'è il monumento al torero e una plaza de toros più grande della cittadina stessa.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLWrtmj3oXXoaImEIRhW1gIZRZIRgP7ED7-Bl9KjDynCVhSm2GLSSAP9jl8BB1zTUtj2NBrQbLXujwU8B5TR1t_XpMc-NPdnqXvrBQgi_7OZeIS2hTnSI1AKv_kJQpsOzaC0kEoZP7c2SpIFO2FfPI59kUb-o2Z-4PjJnFenBWDw9wmBfXZo30RZB/s1280/20220825_095247.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLWrtmj3oXXoaImEIRhW1gIZRZIRgP7ED7-Bl9KjDynCVhSm2GLSSAP9jl8BB1zTUtj2NBrQbLXujwU8B5TR1t_XpMc-NPdnqXvrBQgi_7OZeIS2hTnSI1AKv_kJQpsOzaC0kEoZP7c2SpIFO2FfPI59kUb-o2Z-4PjJnFenBWDw9wmBfXZo30RZB/s320/20220825_095247.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv1LQk-RRpS2gszA-aa86GAPcDijJUAweO6xR1xEqtiLZq91ce6bofQW5Qn0IYV7wTHK3jmhCLrnuYh1IG8MJ6gcDFMmfSnfOfkcOXvGm8R0037PHo7NM5hPdtGZ_PDRf2MmfHXz7zx44HoSxviROznUfgPgyOSIDrgBoT7WVC2G3cXz4CBVwjH5Jw/s1280/20220825_095302.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv1LQk-RRpS2gszA-aa86GAPcDijJUAweO6xR1xEqtiLZq91ce6bofQW5Qn0IYV7wTHK3jmhCLrnuYh1IG8MJ6gcDFMmfSnfOfkcOXvGm8R0037PHo7NM5hPdtGZ_PDRf2MmfHXz7zx44HoSxviROznUfgPgyOSIDrgBoT7WVC2G3cXz4CBVwjH5Jw/s320/20220825_095302.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Oggi la strada è dolce e ci accompagna insieme ad un deciso vento a favore. Di perros malos ne incontriamo pochi e i numerosissimi pueblos rurali, che si susseguono quasi senza interruzioni, sembrano più "civili", più "urbani". Le case son case e non capanne o baracche. Ci sono muri di cinta e cancelli, che tengono dentro i cani. C'è un tentativo di senso estetico, qui e là, con intonaci colorati e chiesine decorate. E' tutto più dignitoso, pur nel poco.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtTmOQCxLFQZTmugXJ-63c6ux2x50qgYPycHaaMl0e0QxNA3_BjsR8s9Oc4WsdXLljJUO-zFLJXIn7irI8R8sNf_Tab4zWS4sXyW5lF6bSkVoQnef9f1Ksarum6frBQ0VZ5YbwhqjFis63OCvXo5VjoFllO5J00VgPSYmIq6F2Z_VJxWixd5Hl50Ha/s1280/20220825_101019.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtTmOQCxLFQZTmugXJ-63c6ux2x50qgYPycHaaMl0e0QxNA3_BjsR8s9Oc4WsdXLljJUO-zFLJXIn7irI8R8sNf_Tab4zWS4sXyW5lF6bSkVoQnef9f1Ksarum6frBQ0VZ5YbwhqjFis63OCvXo5VjoFllO5J00VgPSYmIq6F2Z_VJxWixd5Hl50Ha/s320/20220825_101019.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYGzOfR2ZbKtTwp6_WYh_wgrgCdoWkgi38RX6kdGZ0Cg_6CfB91B_x0bSDFddnH1G8DuYQBFEmPpNyvU_cfbozXm9puNTjjwgC29al39-rrIzIDfl163RkZDDmXT-_k43s7-QTy4tCeysiTBPIV1QbwQrnike8qwPmL38re7g14LuhwJGkN7lWBfs/s1280/20220825_101030.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEYGzOfR2ZbKtTwp6_WYh_wgrgCdoWkgi38RX6kdGZ0Cg_6CfB91B_x0bSDFddnH1G8DuYQBFEmPpNyvU_cfbozXm9puNTjjwgC29al39-rrIzIDfl163RkZDDmXT-_k43s7-QTy4tCeysiTBPIV1QbwQrnike8qwPmL38re7g14LuhwJGkN7lWBfs/s320/20220825_101030.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La gente è già ai campi. C'è chi zappa, chi irriga e chi ara, tutto a mano, senza macchinari. Terra bassissima e dura che però dà frutto. Qui han patria cereali, fiori, piante da frutto e ortaggi, erbe aromatiche e officinali.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinbGO5PN3I_QnRqSlu1lGHbnESFM9mph7Ox7KbyFad64_BcV7_BiYT6Uv0fdp8T2Cp6Ek2NGtfOiQe9PvtcWuU9DAt9PTeLX0ncMUPv8VYlHU0XYxctaoIvm0M2bssppGloV3WbcDK9LdQalfYn6wIesM77bog0T1sLIyNzLMdtx6HREDinNDYZtcS/s1280/20220825_101034.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinbGO5PN3I_QnRqSlu1lGHbnESFM9mph7Ox7KbyFad64_BcV7_BiYT6Uv0fdp8T2Cp6Ek2NGtfOiQe9PvtcWuU9DAt9PTeLX0ncMUPv8VYlHU0XYxctaoIvm0M2bssppGloV3WbcDK9LdQalfYn6wIesM77bog0T1sLIyNzLMdtx6HREDinNDYZtcS/s320/20220825_101034.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0VK_EahkhysqldBmve2g__mrlX5jRjz8CVjSdjyNR8q-BbdJ0x8MO6YGf9I3y1Kp12dTD4QGhgnEE0qSxhp_UeCbbfd0ktIpEJqKnUD8QE_gnVzgKHWEIzGcwGMX_lX8-E_Jne9G9Vy2V33EoVb98oBkV9w4xNEVaMaM9glVMMcytcNGA0F99EYb4/s1280/20220825_101945.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0VK_EahkhysqldBmve2g__mrlX5jRjz8CVjSdjyNR8q-BbdJ0x8MO6YGf9I3y1Kp12dTD4QGhgnEE0qSxhp_UeCbbfd0ktIpEJqKnUD8QE_gnVzgKHWEIzGcwGMX_lX8-E_Jne9G9Vy2V33EoVb98oBkV9w4xNEVaMaM9glVMMcytcNGA0F99EYb4/s320/20220825_101945.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Molti di questi pueblos portano i segni della loro storia e danno la misura della lenta espansione dei coloni dalla costa all'altiplano, al cejo de la selva e al bacino amazzonico. Questi paesini, spesso composti da una chiesa, un'hacienda e quattro casette, erano avamposti.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HJkiBdXDHXFLLC89E-hmmPmB-Jei8sdrZVQiacMrD3ZPxLtFMJXkLJg1mFmEpCIoYkfLyDCquFvT3ARK49O2iK65vhF3FlzbptLO6O28InF5_1RFrhFpKQM3m06IM6HT05Hs0M9R7lM1pmEpVyqiQDQWOwLBgq2Vl10XOf63G-2HocXij_mN9K8t/s1280/20220825_101953.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HJkiBdXDHXFLLC89E-hmmPmB-Jei8sdrZVQiacMrD3ZPxLtFMJXkLJg1mFmEpCIoYkfLyDCquFvT3ARK49O2iK65vhF3FlzbptLO6O28InF5_1RFrhFpKQM3m06IM6HT05Hs0M9R7lM1pmEpVyqiQDQWOwLBgq2Vl10XOf63G-2HocXij_mN9K8t/s320/20220825_101953.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbdvnIwi9v3S1bqazKhhCtahCf61mjwDJCwfS9ducnaI1XnIJVzLMmM2HgklTHml0yEucuMmtcmXvebUc4wEfR9Vx_1pZzmyxwZffbFWwhFpequRnq2DkGt0wPutbE41X01BtvV1XRVuvQlYjoX9fD43i_fyuWXm_28XBlQOoQ_ff3jcfqVbqvZs1/s1280/20220825_102023.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbdvnIwi9v3S1bqazKhhCtahCf61mjwDJCwfS9ducnaI1XnIJVzLMmM2HgklTHml0yEucuMmtcmXvebUc4wEfR9Vx_1pZzmyxwZffbFWwhFpequRnq2DkGt0wPutbE41X01BtvV1XRVuvQlYjoX9fD43i_fyuWXm_28XBlQOoQ_ff3jcfqVbqvZs1/s320/20220825_102023.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SAPgEuskSUko08gFs-qc9hryjBwlB1AKzvJVWNSlwkXF494gH5Q48MOBlOryZ_SRk79fa3VjUVErtgay1tNm2ZdIllRsWrgjKEQCQyRjwnVD44glUIBokTMMwsMr0BqyMd9Wz6U6mRLJdLbTJ21lHmAn7IypByK1O16wo2oy9RkzA0N-tOpgZItp/s1280/20220825_103908.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4SAPgEuskSUko08gFs-qc9hryjBwlB1AKzvJVWNSlwkXF494gH5Q48MOBlOryZ_SRk79fa3VjUVErtgay1tNm2ZdIllRsWrgjKEQCQyRjwnVD44glUIBokTMMwsMr0BqyMd9Wz6U6mRLJdLbTJ21lHmAn7IypByK1O16wo2oy9RkzA0N-tOpgZItp/s320/20220825_103908.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Per quanto si continui a salire, le pendenze sono gentili e quasi non ci si accorge che, un giro di pedale dopo l'altro, siamo sopra i 3000m di quota. Anche il paesaggio intorno non pare montano, se non per qualche altura che si intravede, brulla, a distanza. L'aria è densa del profumo di eucalipto e resina e sembra di essere in collina, da noi, a inizio primavera. Certo, qui l'aratro è ancora manuale e trainato dai cavalli...</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeJYQYHmTxclP1_IBBGyv7uX4VN6NSXs2Wx1AWU0VJAfsCvA34A0UPBDHYf8oHlNSIOhHkVEVbuGKWXxCLd-mJ3hCqdDUwff4M0QfXVXxUUGdRgozon2UvnvyhuZdPNUxuWdPXjdENx-dNd786Gocz5Nex2I1_AyfXJOpLL3YAsK5UbaNl7_bog-X/s1280/20220825_103931.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeJYQYHmTxclP1_IBBGyv7uX4VN6NSXs2Wx1AWU0VJAfsCvA34A0UPBDHYf8oHlNSIOhHkVEVbuGKWXxCLd-mJ3hCqdDUwff4M0QfXVXxUUGdRgozon2UvnvyhuZdPNUxuWdPXjdENx-dNd786Gocz5Nex2I1_AyfXJOpLL3YAsK5UbaNl7_bog-X/s320/20220825_103931.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMh-PP7dM0ZQS7I-70CJg31GjxojlhEf6ei2l2dd8E3xmgT6hAp6dSDirYD7uXZLiuVLP-h_S8ED2wbtCCAqsC9BfQAui9uwOxl8qLCDjdT3dB2LpY8xMmcKaVHtem4SQt26yJeYBamX7r1YidLO9mMfa0KJvAlsMTPwpeQovmNctcpGKyTrjUFL1r/s1280/20220825_104534.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMh-PP7dM0ZQS7I-70CJg31GjxojlhEf6ei2l2dd8E3xmgT6hAp6dSDirYD7uXZLiuVLP-h_S8ED2wbtCCAqsC9BfQAui9uwOxl8qLCDjdT3dB2LpY8xMmcKaVHtem4SQt26yJeYBamX7r1YidLO9mMfa0KJvAlsMTPwpeQovmNctcpGKyTrjUFL1r/s320/20220825_104534.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExxPrl5wjm69jJJUIIeBsjpUlrn6YPP61s6YG10WBxGyeEPrlONjl5XbpKRhXkX1ZoinJGyFSMQs1F5W2p2bHmVaKlnInmIucQ51iSPIsM5oBmrpjxbH_2QZlvISg0eClD3xzmhp_FjrVPcdaHnUW9u2VJB3A1ulZnzO9eQ9la-W1TF-iGBLH4xAr/s1280/20220825_104601.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjExxPrl5wjm69jJJUIIeBsjpUlrn6YPP61s6YG10WBxGyeEPrlONjl5XbpKRhXkX1ZoinJGyFSMQs1F5W2p2bHmVaKlnInmIucQ51iSPIsM5oBmrpjxbH_2QZlvISg0eClD3xzmhp_FjrVPcdaHnUW9u2VJB3A1ulZnzO9eQ9la-W1TF-iGBLH4xAr/s320/20220825_104601.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Dopo 10km raggiungiamo Acobamba, nota per il suo santuario, El senor de Muruhuay, che attira migliaia di pellegrini peruani ogni anno. La moderna struttura, del 1972, custodisce un Cristo con croce scolpito nella roccia, che prima era protetto da una chiesina, e, fino al 1835, da una capanna con il tetto in paglia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbnxc8uSukhTEJCqFv3SLxhTEC09XjvUCyA6d2OhJWAEJQId9ttQrsSmgR_Pm0qXGOTowCThmNvcmJQkwDEOIo6QrLTbC_y4zlGfg13gBZMhNpzgCyhh1qEPiX7Ic6u1qE_r2Gia5Tv3As5xVIIJYbI0WMOKFKJYb34PCQiXrCtpoTc-alqPEM244/s1280/20220825_105402(0).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbnxc8uSukhTEJCqFv3SLxhTEC09XjvUCyA6d2OhJWAEJQId9ttQrsSmgR_Pm0qXGOTowCThmNvcmJQkwDEOIo6QrLTbC_y4zlGfg13gBZMhNpzgCyhh1qEPiX7Ic6u1qE_r2Gia5Tv3As5xVIIJYbI0WMOKFKJYb34PCQiXrCtpoTc-alqPEM244/s320/20220825_105402(0).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBfaLyviFZsVbwoVDWAd3Xjy7NYlcNhUsS7MeMYIK3oQ9hYyl0ubnlXLHQcK9t4GZVRGtYbRzSfDRF-AYfcyDSGeRaQuJQaa7WvZBzaY7okpKtBA7OK1jkEfv16foLsCp-QwvBHcJJWJ7eJVu4vyiDLDM6hLTpIx-S8lguV9xUipPvsdCRR15GAcS/s1280/20220825_105422.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBfaLyviFZsVbwoVDWAd3Xjy7NYlcNhUsS7MeMYIK3oQ9hYyl0ubnlXLHQcK9t4GZVRGtYbRzSfDRF-AYfcyDSGeRaQuJQaa7WvZBzaY7okpKtBA7OK1jkEfv16foLsCp-QwvBHcJJWJ7eJVu4vyiDLDM6hLTpIx-S8lguV9xUipPvsdCRR15GAcS/s320/20220825_105422.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>La cittadina di per sè è piuttosto anonima e polverosa, chiusa tra blocchi di roccia scura che fanno risaltare, ai loro piedi, le candide fincas e i loro terreni coltivati in perfette linee parallele.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jF-cjDf974WO2C0w1_1FGTiLruT_XslXJwzZBEL7J61XneZeDoMBdcVoinC8VqbQUeUpeihLW5wQgGSpzarYhUfUqvtr9ImSHNyDs-wAwrvYeC7wXp7phOgboq6cUjR-OlVmLzj5MSsSTlItBdOIkyk0PAs6mgrYcfFfqSPQcCYc2zjDyo313xod/s1280/20220825_111038.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jF-cjDf974WO2C0w1_1FGTiLruT_XslXJwzZBEL7J61XneZeDoMBdcVoinC8VqbQUeUpeihLW5wQgGSpzarYhUfUqvtr9ImSHNyDs-wAwrvYeC7wXp7phOgboq6cUjR-OlVmLzj5MSsSTlItBdOIkyk0PAs6mgrYcfFfqSPQcCYc2zjDyo313xod/s320/20220825_111038.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6A9kV6j02XhfSo3khiMdJ5Qd6gqODLbql3pmIvNGTnk6jnjpuvTdg56YOnvS3X5iTYP3tLzRVE2y4LPukIxjEohaNb9mVMngbTn_QmHMPQmEZNgiN-63TYPYJPt1kZZVS4b9vJu5T5C3ZiKbaotahNYRIH6JYY-xJfeXcsL4EqKH3USsO1r39r3k/s1280/20220825_111042.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6A9kV6j02XhfSo3khiMdJ5Qd6gqODLbql3pmIvNGTnk6jnjpuvTdg56YOnvS3X5iTYP3tLzRVE2y4LPukIxjEohaNb9mVMngbTn_QmHMPQmEZNgiN-63TYPYJPt1kZZVS4b9vJu5T5C3ZiKbaotahNYRIH6JYY-xJfeXcsL4EqKH3USsO1r39r3k/s320/20220825_111042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_O-kodKp0VEYFDAf28kvu-gz6V_gTiuhlh8GJfaQqQzDnMJ9M9rS_LqHnY6enPoOyrLUtLIYzhp2dr3UrKHz6TMeAYh8AAB0wgyBM2oKYs37AFkKDqCZdY3ZJllK1DibwUMizjJZ5hX_oFwbIHw7Y0SHkU2WZ6uey3rwJKBAT49UNzOzsDooc1jB4/s1280/20220825_111048.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_O-kodKp0VEYFDAf28kvu-gz6V_gTiuhlh8GJfaQqQzDnMJ9M9rS_LqHnY6enPoOyrLUtLIYzhp2dr3UrKHz6TMeAYh8AAB0wgyBM2oKYs37AFkKDqCZdY3ZJllK1DibwUMizjJZ5hX_oFwbIHw7Y0SHkU2WZ6uey3rwJKBAT49UNzOzsDooc1jB4/s320/20220825_111048.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di raggiungere Tarma si possono ammirare diverse fattorie storiche che si sono convertite, del tutto o in parte, all'accoglienza turistica e sono, di fatto, qualcosa che noi definiremmo agriturismo. Hanno ambienti curati che richiamano gli splendori coloniali e offrono prodotti della terra, carne e latticini a km0, mostrando anche la filiera produttiva locale. Qui è attivo soprattutto un turismo interno di limenos e peruviani della costa che vengono a visitare l'altiplano e la selva in poche ore di bus o auto.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oogu8W6YKuI0Snnh3RXmyQ9c6JItQICjZH5YU9Tq38ZhpbhnFxNG5hkD-DjytTgigxClwZllG5E_yQtso0yxDSDJl_Bp7PWxO91710671dS53VO65dNKWZeszw2E-LOeoN31NFfIt2J7wHhUzpc-_8VBCt6OwkZacW18_tocDOc60RvNkxSPMN9Q/s1280/20220825_111531.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oogu8W6YKuI0Snnh3RXmyQ9c6JItQICjZH5YU9Tq38ZhpbhnFxNG5hkD-DjytTgigxClwZllG5E_yQtso0yxDSDJl_Bp7PWxO91710671dS53VO65dNKWZeszw2E-LOeoN31NFfIt2J7wHhUzpc-_8VBCt6OwkZacW18_tocDOc60RvNkxSPMN9Q/s320/20220825_111531.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQIqRADJ57fKWdOUFn5EdFmtEIbHr96R3BvL19YjezXdkqTd4KUvDUjjxUjJFshPMlYxmN1XM_9KOHs9iO4G53pnrwxW7PhJZQUeR9h6SmgUckmnJbUgc9-jE-wLySBkKDuFxeU9i_xJJQgDAR5IWm0VdpgiLiQN8AHzdPH4GdaunNOt4xZz2Mgyy8/s1280/20220825_111549.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQIqRADJ57fKWdOUFn5EdFmtEIbHr96R3BvL19YjezXdkqTd4KUvDUjjxUjJFshPMlYxmN1XM_9KOHs9iO4G53pnrwxW7PhJZQUeR9h6SmgUckmnJbUgc9-jE-wLySBkKDuFxeU9i_xJJQgDAR5IWm0VdpgiLiQN8AHzdPH4GdaunNOt4xZz2Mgyy8/s320/20220825_111549.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yJjtYM91imOVIyBMddwdJgSUDdlcOaFOG2qaOlbR2MWRbmSvi9TpasHy4rZpnbJA8aLRCduYic1JVFwRUnMgvlMWTRShW7QwTLjif-DH4GpEh7GkAi6RAFnVLVeaD0X4OJtloq4WS3Hlr0k2RTOosmOSqgc_jiD3RYwL3tZIh5aMwR7IDiO66CUq/s1280/20220825_111555.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yJjtYM91imOVIyBMddwdJgSUDdlcOaFOG2qaOlbR2MWRbmSvi9TpasHy4rZpnbJA8aLRCduYic1JVFwRUnMgvlMWTRShW7QwTLjif-DH4GpEh7GkAi6RAFnVLVeaD0X4OJtloq4WS3Hlr0k2RTOosmOSqgc_jiD3RYwL3tZIh5aMwR7IDiO66CUq/s320/20220825_111555.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Ben prima di mezzogiorno giungiamo a Tarma, dove ho già prenotato un alberghetto in centro che ci dia modo di riposare bene per una mezza giornata. Ne abbiamo bisogno, tra notti in bianco, intestini in fiamme e visi gonfi di punture d'ape.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOsBH_TtgbSQOLWHzonTs4YBLq6TVIRak4AzZTI8JvycjJNkUuXIlsmL1LfmnVqlmg8KmTUMPI8-AixiMruOHNxMmvRgiFwWi970FhEqCaRVmXPDFQfNIQjtYirbLYIFp9r0w7EC-u_LXs2BZM4qqsRp0UEpqLzk2nKMY75kdjfK3EbVvA3G0vvl2J/s1280/20220825_113112.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOsBH_TtgbSQOLWHzonTs4YBLq6TVIRak4AzZTI8JvycjJNkUuXIlsmL1LfmnVqlmg8KmTUMPI8-AixiMruOHNxMmvRgiFwWi970FhEqCaRVmXPDFQfNIQjtYirbLYIFp9r0w7EC-u_LXs2BZM4qqsRp0UEpqLzk2nKMY75kdjfK3EbVvA3G0vvl2J/s320/20220825_113112.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Vy7wqKOblmlVu4m0i7nEzcl_-SWu94M_4rkZgBC3R1E4VPch-mZ2KKTdVgDHVa_GVul-cvXcUhpws9SSyLdQY_FZl03zRNjZyykgQ_mjs2Z_w_wDdO7wMWWPi4T2_tnITn-pBys5FIN7lVtwHWUL8tQddKSV618XoQssLehhsg7isCCbDCsCaZXf/s1280/20220825_113705.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Vy7wqKOblmlVu4m0i7nEzcl_-SWu94M_4rkZgBC3R1E4VPch-mZ2KKTdVgDHVa_GVul-cvXcUhpws9SSyLdQY_FZl03zRNjZyykgQ_mjs2Z_w_wDdO7wMWWPi4T2_tnITn-pBys5FIN7lVtwHWUL8tQddKSV618XoQssLehhsg7isCCbDCsCaZXf/s320/20220825_113705.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tarma, spesso Taruma, è definita dalla guida come una delle città più accoglienti dell'altiplano, e in effetti è dotata di tutti i servizi ed è piacevole da passeggiare, nel centro. Il suo nome, che ha in realtà etimo quechua e si riferisce a una pianta autoctona e al fiume, non mi piace: un po' è trauma un po' insetto che fa i buchi nei vestiti e pure un po' schifo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6G3fl_4L1Gtt_EfINP-CCDzSqsLp_lPE8dC-VTgsS00kKYt4om3kNvNmRYyDquOuAiWF1xKakJeY856uxZDioI4ZVb9TUt5aGUBLAejECdqmLHp8i-jAJuNmikod9raNm8FWdRfCHxZ2pEX7-5XMTl-JxQOsdtfI_O1D1VO3m0P5exSeFWmv1KlIP/s1280/20220825_114424.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6G3fl_4L1Gtt_EfINP-CCDzSqsLp_lPE8dC-VTgsS00kKYt4om3kNvNmRYyDquOuAiWF1xKakJeY856uxZDioI4ZVb9TUt5aGUBLAejECdqmLHp8i-jAJuNmikod9raNm8FWdRfCHxZ2pEX7-5XMTl-JxQOsdtfI_O1D1VO3m0P5exSeFWmv1KlIP/s320/20220825_114424.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Qui, per il clima mite e il terreno fertile, vivevano due grandi gruppi etnici poi sottomessi dagli inca e frammentati in unità territoriali da Pachacutec, in modo da agire un miglior controllo. La città inca più importante era Tarmatambo, a 6km da qui, dove oggi si possono ammirare vaste rovine. Gli spagnoli poi mantennero l'idea della divisione delle etnie e Tarma, fondata a fine '500 in fondovalle, ebbe il ruolo di forte e centro di potere coloniale nell'area.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiitSeoBUOMdBqIJgogRZnmwT6SJV0-3R0CS2f3mj-AxeWzWz6COFksu7hDnG-Z8WYrAaPotFj_VkvcwIwkMLZRlAYF-l2j_SQfX6P7tME4tty8-8WgsduTBf-cWkYkpHmCDrnMnBHgfeIeE9BVE_tkprCioE3NDQGUZVxTZVLsf-StZx8KRVp8oeoi/s1280/20220825_114428.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiitSeoBUOMdBqIJgogRZnmwT6SJV0-3R0CS2f3mj-AxeWzWz6COFksu7hDnG-Z8WYrAaPotFj_VkvcwIwkMLZRlAYF-l2j_SQfX6P7tME4tty8-8WgsduTBf-cWkYkpHmCDrnMnBHgfeIeE9BVE_tkprCioE3NDQGUZVxTZVLsf-StZx8KRVp8oeoi/s320/20220825_114428.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFwevFgzg52Gdy2wvpFLu4oT9J_SVptniMRxhLSY-1yqpTWERn4raFZLWgX2efl1U39gE03A6r2lUuEnA68HRyj1Mf4kBkriM9PTdu4eiBiV1oitLq21jnAraHM6zyiS6hUVoWeCX-7naB7g9ly7teDJjFbkaoSgUFxOdfI5q-2jsNllKTWhHK6aFG/s1280/20220825_114432.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFwevFgzg52Gdy2wvpFLu4oT9J_SVptniMRxhLSY-1yqpTWERn4raFZLWgX2efl1U39gE03A6r2lUuEnA68HRyj1Mf4kBkriM9PTdu4eiBiV1oitLq21jnAraHM6zyiS6hUVoWeCX-7naB7g9ly7teDJjFbkaoSgUFxOdfI5q-2jsNllKTWhHK6aFG/s320/20220825_114432.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">colibrì e studenti in uscita</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoSclwIaNqdZr0nulNhS1pdc7emaw2bj6Wel7tNxvdjTQ3qmXVbK61-qeKPcyJG1eR4sQ27Aih3CIRCvLPrOdN22n20OeBJJu3i_Xmt3mW9ACLEnV8e5gClvWXCsVE6MCEo4AilGorz97QMGEwkIpvM-udhyWPdQUbBWArscDdBwUe65NlF5B-2Fh/s1280/20220825_115039.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoSclwIaNqdZr0nulNhS1pdc7emaw2bj6Wel7tNxvdjTQ3qmXVbK61-qeKPcyJG1eR4sQ27Aih3CIRCvLPrOdN22n20OeBJJu3i_Xmt3mW9ACLEnV8e5gClvWXCsVE6MCEo4AilGorz97QMGEwkIpvM-udhyWPdQUbBWArscDdBwUe65NlF5B-2Fh/s320/20220825_115039.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Durante la guerra d'indipendenza qui si è combattuto sanguinosamente, ed è stata quartier generale delle forze peruane nella guerra del pacifico. Ma Tarma è famosa soprattutto per aver dato i natali a uno dei molti, purtroppo, dittatori che han governato il paese. E non solo gli ha dato i natali, ma lo commemora e venera e ha pure una giornata della gratitudine che viene celebrata ogni anno il 26 novembre. Parliamo di Manuel A. Odrìa, militare filostatunitense che, con un golpe, prese il potere nel 1948 e lo mantenne per 8 anni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixMqIYV40vUD7p_xomaEhI5VuJ1L5KB1hGIxPuTHh52Yh4LPhGtd3KTh5tyE9lWIjyr4xb_gaNCwC2D1eBiXRb2EAeutEe5BFdnxyowQzhKe7nK-SOGeqX2Ttb00FNWiBMa3Kbdte_cfeNaHeeIi2AwZK2tL_WsmvBWUjhHtuZ7R-Shr7EKbwydEnd/s1280/20220825_115209.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixMqIYV40vUD7p_xomaEhI5VuJ1L5KB1hGIxPuTHh52Yh4LPhGtd3KTh5tyE9lWIjyr4xb_gaNCwC2D1eBiXRb2EAeutEe5BFdnxyowQzhKe7nK-SOGeqX2Ttb00FNWiBMa3Kbdte_cfeNaHeeIi2AwZK2tL_WsmvBWUjhHtuZ7R-Shr7EKbwydEnd/s320/20220825_115209.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Prima di esplorare la città ci dedichiamo ad un poco di riposo. Doccia calda, lavaggio vestiti puteolenti, sano cazzeggio e pisolino. Dalla finestra si vede il Perù, con i suoi monti e i suoi tetti sghembi.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOXjKqbdb1a7wxshTRWrVpozwBg7VM7HVFcBiaDl4WxSdElsGanCx4bf-PO9BTCHUCUK7dVhbMlqhEwy_MvDTo55MDXhnN6ZS3m_UmY7YWkAFHg44bHOxYUTLGK0M6brdFRY7OZx2tHNRH-8HdjgAAxCuH-Ukp7bFTv_zkttzxD5aLLldzRKYOWUfn/s1280/20220825_152413.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOXjKqbdb1a7wxshTRWrVpozwBg7VM7HVFcBiaDl4WxSdElsGanCx4bf-PO9BTCHUCUK7dVhbMlqhEwy_MvDTo55MDXhnN6ZS3m_UmY7YWkAFHg44bHOxYUTLGK0M6brdFRY7OZx2tHNRH-8HdjgAAxCuH-Ukp7bFTv_zkttzxD5aLLldzRKYOWUfn/s320/20220825_152413.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbz7iw46ac4b5GtZQfNBv3yJd1RNQISTPifDOAiHj2siT2CtObkNRZDpp1mklEJF24Zf7D3d5gdxDlXmBWcG_PKSKaCPnYmrwHapL2o285G8sAV56Oc42_LD-gI1i1Cs4PbPWWTvS_-qlrhA5165e9Q6smY0dLrN0iV8fwKtXK10ltJveeU7M0SV2W/s1280/20220825_152422.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbz7iw46ac4b5GtZQfNBv3yJd1RNQISTPifDOAiHj2siT2CtObkNRZDpp1mklEJF24Zf7D3d5gdxDlXmBWcG_PKSKaCPnYmrwHapL2o285G8sAV56Oc42_LD-gI1i1Cs4PbPWWTvS_-qlrhA5165e9Q6smY0dLrN0iV8fwKtXK10ltJveeU7M0SV2W/s320/20220825_152422.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Riprese le forze (meglio: ripresi i sensi) ci tuffiamo nel gomitolo di strade che sono vivaci sì, ma non incasinate. I venditori ambulanti sono ordinati tricicli con ombrellino, con i gelati confezionati, e signore dei popcorn (c'è la potnia theron e la potnia popcorn). Sbrighiamo alcune pratiche, come il ritiro di contanti, il pellegrinaggio in farmacia e la ricarica della sim peruana. Poi ci diamo al paseo, piano piano, perchè sono molle e l'altura ha ricominciato a rubare ossigeno. Passiamo accanto alla parrocchia del Signore dei miracoli, che solo ormai può far qualcosa per le mie budella, e andiamo a vedere la prima cosa strana e vagamente inquetante: un parco dedicato al didattore nato qui.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFsR1eoF2zo0YR8IvytUrnMPeUTpLyvLaOA0HdxPzxV_S2OMErvtTxw-rlfbLbdTGH26IUTWJPjFdAtWd-ZeAYwYzvCoCrOy__JIE4oFNn6KxYACSiiuQfjthk0fECAeBqnmms_LlFJdhDdgI-rzqtI6XyZllBsL8rdNxrC9Qo8uxVUcUF2ZE8-C9/s1280/20220825_155804.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRFsR1eoF2zo0YR8IvytUrnMPeUTpLyvLaOA0HdxPzxV_S2OMErvtTxw-rlfbLbdTGH26IUTWJPjFdAtWd-ZeAYwYzvCoCrOy__JIE4oFNn6KxYACSiiuQfjthk0fECAeBqnmms_LlFJdhDdgI-rzqtI6XyZllBsL8rdNxrC9Qo8uxVUcUF2ZE8-C9/s320/20220825_155804.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2bedl5VpDdRP-qDM4-raak5CRZHqEJdwddvuV-kwbvHfbgQPaSvKae6bEyBozIyUZQay15hOo9mQSYM-G_YDWvrWRee4kAPQLb-eHKGkA0-f9gihZBchRdjj6Htr2QaWC2CqBhNd2QGnHW6U9ZOccIpEapapzHN_udfFunzq-K_tzA8qDQgWn2A0/s1280/20220825_160029.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2bedl5VpDdRP-qDM4-raak5CRZHqEJdwddvuV-kwbvHfbgQPaSvKae6bEyBozIyUZQay15hOo9mQSYM-G_YDWvrWRee4kAPQLb-eHKGkA0-f9gihZBchRdjj6Htr2QaWC2CqBhNd2QGnHW6U9ZOccIpEapapzHN_udfFunzq-K_tzA8qDQgWn2A0/s320/20220825_160029.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nulla da dire, è un bello spazio verde, molto curato e pulito per gli standard. I bambini giocano a piedi nudi sull'erba ed è in corso un piccolo comizio elettorale di uno dei mille candidati che hanno una faccia così poco raccomandabile che non gli affiderei neanche dieci soles.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-_nAqrndCVLBoX2srg-qBNAOyZPh-vxj_JDQsGdBm54LeaIgRzQEL6N8BboXbYU6qA2IGP7ABQGR1uy1Geboe78YyKb_oq8oIK69M7soUkFhI3MpcYGoifXRCvc5km7ZXqWV3tzkypnZx8qyS3e77XX_9suv87pIcMydGTBlQnvHhD3tVKUWpzBR/s1280/20220825_160112.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-_nAqrndCVLBoX2srg-qBNAOyZPh-vxj_JDQsGdBm54LeaIgRzQEL6N8BboXbYU6qA2IGP7ABQGR1uy1Geboe78YyKb_oq8oIK69M7soUkFhI3MpcYGoifXRCvc5km7ZXqWV3tzkypnZx8qyS3e77XX_9suv87pIcMydGTBlQnvHhD3tVKUWpzBR/s320/20220825_160112.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGt3CLPlq8lYvoub3E2UW2VWbX0wOxmvQMfs-x6ns6U1oHOlP5MmZcED3BN-1m8CymVFB4mapFFkZsHKOIOmcaO_dRszZ3MA6hbZFwi7Kef0YJFAu-g4x3bBvxqWx2t_kKjcyazvJUf4-JKX-5XRAgceSvs3BRCLi94ZkzRkxcFule5UI_MyhJ9f74/s1280/20220825_160124.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGt3CLPlq8lYvoub3E2UW2VWbX0wOxmvQMfs-x6ns6U1oHOlP5MmZcED3BN-1m8CymVFB4mapFFkZsHKOIOmcaO_dRszZ3MA6hbZFwi7Kef0YJFAu-g4x3bBvxqWx2t_kKjcyazvJUf4-JKX-5XRAgceSvs3BRCLi94ZkzRkxcFule5UI_MyhJ9f74/s320/20220825_160124.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0s7ibDg9ErHf0XRc8GUvdx6Dp2DG3dtYUJbl84Li6leTAI24j_rjkFjlBwqwlSGEhonbPcHqscxZYnRO_6YDSShPGxtwjGNCQKC0iobYGxldxaH6sDTJ1LHzQ5j5Ljiu1lUaMmOysHAbLj21lldtJjjbdwpEOblY7w2DBvYhJII3oZJOrDCPAg2_K/s1280/20220825_160225.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0s7ibDg9ErHf0XRc8GUvdx6Dp2DG3dtYUJbl84Li6leTAI24j_rjkFjlBwqwlSGEhonbPcHqscxZYnRO_6YDSShPGxtwjGNCQKC0iobYGxldxaH6sDTJ1LHzQ5j5Ljiu1lUaMmOysHAbLj21lldtJjjbdwpEOblY7w2DBvYhJII3oZJOrDCPAg2_K/s320/20220825_160225.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Tuttavia, in questo bel clima sereno, non c'è da dimenticare che Odria è stato un dittatore, ha preso il potere con un golpe militare e si è accanito contro comunisti e apristi, (socialisti populisti antiamericani), violando i diritti individuali ed eliminando ogni forma di opposizione. E' stato uno dei tanti dittatori latinoamericani sostenuti dagli USA, in piena guerra fredda. Una personcina a modo.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gtZHINOXkwb6stA1XjnUr-7U12Jt4il3o4t7GpXuzo-yArCHv8zjD4Zu_PgXQH9c84IoV-Y5S1aUC3gZ2HTyFmPy857oMtJ0PiCEGlPSDU5WUnLldzWxh3T4lO7AqHucYyx0jZSKOEi5brjjYQZZULerpOq022UOUVP4jb4LfT1suMRqv2WWdIQr/s1280/20220825_160251.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gtZHINOXkwb6stA1XjnUr-7U12Jt4il3o4t7GpXuzo-yArCHv8zjD4Zu_PgXQH9c84IoV-Y5S1aUC3gZ2HTyFmPy857oMtJ0PiCEGlPSDU5WUnLldzWxh3T4lO7AqHucYyx0jZSKOEi5brjjYQZZULerpOq022UOUVP4jb4LfT1suMRqv2WWdIQr/s320/20220825_160251.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49dMUWPNiR7OYD0ARhAqKhOaKha9ELHgmryiUuyfIpauUlqyLMcwawXwI9z89Dl8WsOYfd82ceA-yQdsrjZx_IK-183HQRiG-XL3P0HXYUiBaxbNx9HpnD78LZ-dffmidzqA1Ff3io0XjKNqRWRoGbQXkipSFZAhR9h8ki8wgEe2IYInsDp6AtItw/s1280/20220825_160446.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49dMUWPNiR7OYD0ARhAqKhOaKha9ELHgmryiUuyfIpauUlqyLMcwawXwI9z89Dl8WsOYfd82ceA-yQdsrjZx_IK-183HQRiG-XL3P0HXYUiBaxbNx9HpnD78LZ-dffmidzqA1Ff3io0XjKNqRWRoGbQXkipSFZAhR9h8ki8wgEe2IYInsDp6AtItw/s320/20220825_160446.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIDaxmrZ7XHu0vjb_uNNtyHW5Qmst2S5c1kIey9gF9ko8Q9yNuXq35tG7j-NFruHvsk-DPPbapQg7PQT3R-GCm4ycXd9gzFdKXrEdEa1QJpYIgM99jlWxUiVxmJl3Q4lV4_voZ9pVcmJ8pGtQhMSwyqdqudFZA4OK3E4zjFAdMQwzo0M3orjzoKLDz/s1280/20220825_160457.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIDaxmrZ7XHu0vjb_uNNtyHW5Qmst2S5c1kIey9gF9ko8Q9yNuXq35tG7j-NFruHvsk-DPPbapQg7PQT3R-GCm4ycXd9gzFdKXrEdEa1QJpYIgM99jlWxUiVxmJl3Q4lV4_voZ9pVcmJ8pGtQhMSwyqdqudFZA4OK3E4zjFAdMQwzo0M3orjzoKLDz/s320/20220825_160457.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSSNgyAC_j4Wt4EQYfnM3h07itZgHNnwTJhYM7GByOz2Oui5VAgnZpIdAlENlmmW47wX5M1F72vx9TICx3MRC54KK8eG7ZeriV2HHrh0dlOu2ETqfD81-0LP0XmW_cWedY9Mk-YQiqtZUzTRkeFSPuoKeKyvqN7kFTmZaP51cxfFuEOH8qdkv1bYI/s1280/20220825_160511.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSSNgyAC_j4Wt4EQYfnM3h07itZgHNnwTJhYM7GByOz2Oui5VAgnZpIdAlENlmmW47wX5M1F72vx9TICx3MRC54KK8eG7ZeriV2HHrh0dlOu2ETqfD81-0LP0XmW_cWedY9Mk-YQiqtZUzTRkeFSPuoKeKyvqN7kFTmZaP51cxfFuEOH8qdkv1bYI/s320/20220825_160511.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Certo, Odria a Tarma ha fatto tanto. Diceva: "Por mi patria doy mi vida y por Tarma mi corazón". Un ospedale, due istituti scolastici, la casa municipale e l'hotel de turistas, tutt'oggi esistente. E la cattedrale, inaugurata nel 1954, dove ha l'onore di essere sepolto, vicino all'altar maggiore. Caso abbastanza raro per i dittatori, o almeno così mi piace pensare. Forse, fosse per molti, anche da noi si farebbe tanto per alcuni noti volti della nostra storia.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15pq_HbWqU9fgsnwcE9aCkca_yzOOMJWY2lwwvw36qCAfZfBuTI6SBbhQCkf7bd9KN7erVydtdKwADugCfrj4dXzVAMt_v0o_SvkzB2RzicmF_0JN-WIl4WMw4Ty0Cey4X0hV1tlP6boIDCLcHd_eALgJ6nttWMhLw0ntlbohszrSCqc3VrE1jcIo/s1280/20220825_160523.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15pq_HbWqU9fgsnwcE9aCkca_yzOOMJWY2lwwvw36qCAfZfBuTI6SBbhQCkf7bd9KN7erVydtdKwADugCfrj4dXzVAMt_v0o_SvkzB2RzicmF_0JN-WIl4WMw4Ty0Cey4X0hV1tlP6boIDCLcHd_eALgJ6nttWMhLw0ntlbohszrSCqc3VrE1jcIo/s320/20220825_160523.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvYzyCfE1HvV9yTDYL3rz769xlfr-RdjAuNG3oQhfRTx3ojD5-XYbJ7DjKJjLJDX5jEFzIuNyfcgmSQ_-6mPtIqtLOT6SrRKBYjRfkHRqYijQj4omavC7g7uNwo8CFB-xe1A2Cebe0rQo41FiPbJRTHwtgkOnw_n6Hc3i9ZOFGl0JMewFbzsH7tlM/s1280/20220825_160756.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvYzyCfE1HvV9yTDYL3rz769xlfr-RdjAuNG3oQhfRTx3ojD5-XYbJ7DjKJjLJDX5jEFzIuNyfcgmSQ_-6mPtIqtLOT6SrRKBYjRfkHRqYijQj4omavC7g7uNwo8CFB-xe1A2Cebe0rQo41FiPbJRTHwtgkOnw_n6Hc3i9ZOFGl0JMewFbzsH7tlM/s320/20220825_160756.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Con questo senso di straniamento, passeggiamo lungo il corso centrale fino alla Plaza de armas. Si susseguono begli edifici coloniali, sedi di istituzioni religiose, banche, farmacie e negozi di tecnologia. Tutte le cose "da città" che mancano nei pueblos rurali.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYRn3mQDHg6ZpPIb6SZGh9GDaifTaF2WB7AMYFeN-P7Pm9vAcc0KtOKMsSnDPXc-lN-vNTg1-70cpF8aSmmwpej2byahmCIqxYFLwNW5MMojSfRVkuqxquV7HSHsUEERZZ4bOsbLOegju2CaBEmtr_sRLyyNET-95O4JWoQMNbGL01TDQ4hrE_ori/s1280/20220825_161015.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYRn3mQDHg6ZpPIb6SZGh9GDaifTaF2WB7AMYFeN-P7Pm9vAcc0KtOKMsSnDPXc-lN-vNTg1-70cpF8aSmmwpej2byahmCIqxYFLwNW5MMojSfRVkuqxquV7HSHsUEERZZ4bOsbLOegju2CaBEmtr_sRLyyNET-95O4JWoQMNbGL01TDQ4hrE_ori/s320/20220825_161015.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3S-Ou7ZtPkr-CgP-IN4sU1NH28wUHUSZWx5y1vyFGzS85L6Jg_3EPCm8YM8o7AoC-Mh6bDSW6mo3Rpxz5RO8W1YkicaSWD-8Obgc7-00u4WIY_Q3I4svga7haUCxwDXu3-U3_AWW2fuPBjGSUUewTxbjeBeFplaVCpfkVIMdUj82cyB8gcJjYCrJg/s1280/20220825_161102.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3S-Ou7ZtPkr-CgP-IN4sU1NH28wUHUSZWx5y1vyFGzS85L6Jg_3EPCm8YM8o7AoC-Mh6bDSW6mo3Rpxz5RO8W1YkicaSWD-8Obgc7-00u4WIY_Q3I4svga7haUCxwDXu3-U3_AWW2fuPBjGSUUewTxbjeBeFplaVCpfkVIMdUj82cyB8gcJjYCrJg/s320/20220825_161102.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVqKY51bqyY11IEP3n8dt8nm9nTHRlR6UmZRzT6-X04kldLsM6ndixyvEqhxVJasL2F8JFqzrPQM6THNAeBzRne44soNYxB2EUFsYslW8dbdwCSoGlGjsV9CHQXSmPRoGd4WZbuYB4FkcW4fDzne8S7Z0ph8I2Y-FoUzj2vN0f2L1MW4C2sQEpbpi/s1280/20220825_161348.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVqKY51bqyY11IEP3n8dt8nm9nTHRlR6UmZRzT6-X04kldLsM6ndixyvEqhxVJasL2F8JFqzrPQM6THNAeBzRne44soNYxB2EUFsYslW8dbdwCSoGlGjsV9CHQXSmPRoGd4WZbuYB4FkcW4fDzne8S7Z0ph8I2Y-FoUzj2vN0f2L1MW4C2sQEpbpi/s320/20220825_161348.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgklbmmXvw3ubexU1NMU2WmJxIczi2CY0PbjtfXrrfMADHVRMMESTNuTp1mDaAfcqWXpE_uFbQuGs65sYF93t3zibRvmSR2QgEy9hMOWbsGPeNWXTZea037NshyqMTOv8xO_YZ4ku7u7pprvz_j8-rduehDU0JH8-9Lh5IO3lrdDuSp8zxCYk-o-Mo3/s1280/20220825_161612.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgklbmmXvw3ubexU1NMU2WmJxIczi2CY0PbjtfXrrfMADHVRMMESTNuTp1mDaAfcqWXpE_uFbQuGs65sYF93t3zibRvmSR2QgEy9hMOWbsGPeNWXTZea037NshyqMTOv8xO_YZ4ku7u7pprvz_j8-rduehDU0JH8-9Lh5IO3lrdDuSp8zxCYk-o-Mo3/s320/20220825_161612.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">un bel negozio di telefoni e tv... Con il tetto à la peruana</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXF2UenXe_I9X_EuwE_mimVvXk-alURJmAPIEUxc7Md7MGeMUhVvRQ1pwXN34D9vGr6A-0eVHyUfkE0bwK91sQ2hokF5ZACvYtR1_cOvTeVuMButNUmVyrHCdK3itgHVTlgxt101FOt4Zv8ollbl1tPrqAutSgsYID5lKSmAGo-aRhkYmQRO84Uypc/s1280/20220825_161830.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXF2UenXe_I9X_EuwE_mimVvXk-alURJmAPIEUxc7Md7MGeMUhVvRQ1pwXN34D9vGr6A-0eVHyUfkE0bwK91sQ2hokF5ZACvYtR1_cOvTeVuMButNUmVyrHCdK3itgHVTlgxt101FOt4Zv8ollbl1tPrqAutSgsYID5lKSmAGo-aRhkYmQRO84Uypc/s320/20220825_161830.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In piazza, quasi tutta opera di Odria, spiccano la sua cattedrale, il gazebo dei vaccini</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBtxUYIQz1PxXzjBdJDFw4FKmko2Q5AtxPTKF-MNPVlCfax1Ro9P9319SJiD7Gh6EXUx_VvRkS2S3qpDs8DX2DoNL2L8KEgylJIXJNxe8yrG70SHv7tf5ys_0NoaXXKIIy85x4HWPCrn_h_wPekRU6TQzIHkI0Z6Bro9wD99x52hJvR68DWao0sqw/s1280/20220825_162342.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBBtxUYIQz1PxXzjBdJDFw4FKmko2Q5AtxPTKF-MNPVlCfax1Ro9P9319SJiD7Gh6EXUx_VvRkS2S3qpDs8DX2DoNL2L8KEgylJIXJNxe8yrG70SHv7tf5ys_0NoaXXKIIy85x4HWPCrn_h_wPekRU6TQzIHkI0Z6Bro9wD99x52hJvR68DWao0sqw/s320/20220825_162342.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVMVk3mTSvoon9N0VoiT597mSxkL-_Rl9r-yNu-KT3d1y5aIebn7MYURXt_6Kb9xchuhrT96u5yNuMnCwV5JwUWkk4tdGPP0LQQKRCMEJq0i9VkXmMpZvva9LicOB5KkHB14IgU94CZ6woh1UfjkNCH8cIE2dNYCo_VS2JTpu0nqiA3ZZyWw2ilxIi/s1280/20220825_162528.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVMVk3mTSvoon9N0VoiT597mSxkL-_Rl9r-yNu-KT3d1y5aIebn7MYURXt_6Kb9xchuhrT96u5yNuMnCwV5JwUWkk4tdGPP0LQQKRCMEJq0i9VkXmMpZvva9LicOB5KkHB14IgU94CZ6woh1UfjkNCH8cIE2dNYCo_VS2JTpu0nqiA3ZZyWw2ilxIi/s320/20220825_162528.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8Ib7N6O3S_6W_TsLjwYrbTp8nHimClEBlaKv1VMq2XaO-mKs4NGhNyBp7YvUSlbzqiWYUIZgFz0D_1XxaPAN4IJYYhNn4Jp3JZw89FMEx-O3zfMhrpDYuXeVjQfdXJMkLQt4fzq5ZRFFT5mZyAtCXwJJOR2tJkDI2ZhZQmVLmc2tfmBa5y8cr4XO/s1280/20220825_162559.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8Ib7N6O3S_6W_TsLjwYrbTp8nHimClEBlaKv1VMq2XaO-mKs4NGhNyBp7YvUSlbzqiWYUIZgFz0D_1XxaPAN4IJYYhNn4Jp3JZw89FMEx-O3zfMhrpDYuXeVjQfdXJMkLQt4fzq5ZRFFT5mZyAtCXwJJOR2tJkDI2ZhZQmVLmc2tfmBa5y8cr4XO/s320/20220825_162559.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggxY2CJ3BWgoau_TZVviF-3ocuF4sMr39RI9gGPtJrm--xWKVqLyGiiUEx0vPR1VKsjNBEfDqA-6AI4FCVjDPmrnCilTq1k6QZH5pSLq3UlazpdAaEADb4e_eDeBSM3ROmDfVuHcO-jFmZw7mPDU58vYCPqlzC2UVdO4Z_qD1az0Gm1ZIbrweAGnoR/s1280/20220825_162655.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggxY2CJ3BWgoau_TZVviF-3ocuF4sMr39RI9gGPtJrm--xWKVqLyGiiUEx0vPR1VKsjNBEfDqA-6AI4FCVjDPmrnCilTq1k6QZH5pSLq3UlazpdAaEADb4e_eDeBSM3ROmDfVuHcO-jFmZw7mPDU58vYCPqlzC2UVdO4Z_qD1az0Gm1ZIbrweAGnoR/s320/20220825_162655.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>e i palazzoni in cemento decorati con fili di piccioni.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjap7jp6-stNLySjSk5ISbePMOn_aN1OXeOAWlbZlfIDLannlZJ7mhk-heNnGac251BbZaIQTi6Fbj06K7TqVIMgc07fCl2hSN2xOfTewPeI_NtYpfNdJuZM-edS6xWyWIybzBZuklSwDQjnhbygaqn3Msxcwx3eStxZV1HfsnzP6SC5dTy9E2ZRy0r/s1280/20220825_162943.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjap7jp6-stNLySjSk5ISbePMOn_aN1OXeOAWlbZlfIDLannlZJ7mhk-heNnGac251BbZaIQTi6Fbj06K7TqVIMgc07fCl2hSN2xOfTewPeI_NtYpfNdJuZM-edS6xWyWIybzBZuklSwDQjnhbygaqn3Msxcwx3eStxZV1HfsnzP6SC5dTy9E2ZRy0r/s320/20220825_162943.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkCzA2LUjjjfPm0Kk5hGSAitWmEzEnLatLWZhBfda0CZMf25FSBYdHXNosS49v6Nw7uNKrv2OO6UrvTJBWAnmz3id216wCiEI7MePKfRUT2fvHkdE_BPe1hXn1YkStNSjLt33l8AlV68MrlQu4kWYVWEAbs0kVyy6Jkti9QMaOtPaYGmR8yxTnSWg/s1280/20220825_162952.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkCzA2LUjjjfPm0Kk5hGSAitWmEzEnLatLWZhBfda0CZMf25FSBYdHXNosS49v6Nw7uNKrv2OO6UrvTJBWAnmz3id216wCiEI7MePKfRUT2fvHkdE_BPe1hXn1YkStNSjLt33l8AlV68MrlQu4kWYVWEAbs0kVyy6Jkti9QMaOtPaYGmR8yxTnSWg/s320/20220825_162952.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7GxbxpbRkjsMhCKQxthtc5JpUWQu33x0iGW_lOMHTREUlZFAiQmb7_Mka4ayagzVdtg2B6Pm7YizD4ENls75-no4uIWgujyPZevOe6-cYGg3Q6dWkyeLMRg5KqRgOrhCbT1R5rxNmMIC-mY_3weXvAcgPstbi6DsraqYk83haHjVuMXWHqHW0mrz/s1280/20220825_163104.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7GxbxpbRkjsMhCKQxthtc5JpUWQu33x0iGW_lOMHTREUlZFAiQmb7_Mka4ayagzVdtg2B6Pm7YizD4ENls75-no4uIWgujyPZevOe6-cYGg3Q6dWkyeLMRg5KqRgOrhCbT1R5rxNmMIC-mY_3weXvAcgPstbi6DsraqYk83haHjVuMXWHqHW0mrz/s320/20220825_163104.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Proseguiamo la passeggiata per poi rientrare in hotel a riposare ancora. Siamo cotti ed è necessario.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkahpemS1LXzo2y4tfyIclJKfzudl_8YgFfaTHH0L7V9rQ3ljO80vmebGqqRe2ktby9xNggiXZUbQUjBNn73wnWneDNZpPOY-NMNCCgRabcqKhj1AeVoc3VM5LIbNvk2TsLtURa9s2wgqz7vIgHkimHcEhvdl3-bObtgNFAW_y9-UiGhJOlN7aWlO/s1280/20220825_163946.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUkahpemS1LXzo2y4tfyIclJKfzudl_8YgFfaTHH0L7V9rQ3ljO80vmebGqqRe2ktby9xNggiXZUbQUjBNn73wnWneDNZpPOY-NMNCCgRabcqKhj1AeVoc3VM5LIbNvk2TsLtURa9s2wgqz7vIgHkimHcEhvdl3-bObtgNFAW_y9-UiGhJOlN7aWlO/s320/20220825_163946.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Domani, infatti, ci attende una tappa da 60km. I primi due terzi in salita, dino a 4100m. L'ultima parte in discesa, per tornare a 3800m. Faremo sosta a La Oroya, che apre la zona d'altiplano crivellata di miniere, con le loro luci e le loro ombre.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Rita Sozzihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11741819189614687378noreply@blogger.com6